Smile january 2015

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M AG A Z I N E F O R C E B U PAC I F I C

Eastern promises HOW TO SPEND A PERFECT SAMAR WEEKEND

JANUARY 2015

“Hala bira!” THE BEAT GOES ON AT KALIBO’S ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL



From the chief

WHAT’S YOUR STORY?

It’s 2015 and, so far, our numbers tell an amazing story: in two months, Cebu Pacific Airlines officially turns 19 years old. We’ve built a fleet of 52 aircraft and, as of press time, we are on our way to reaching a staggering 100 million in number of passengers served over the years. But even more wonderful than these figures are the real-life stories behind them — the one about a woman returning home (and finally seeing her family again) for the first time since taking a job overseas six years earlier; the one about a young entrepreneur discovering beautiful traditional crafts in remote corners of Mindanao; the one about a group of guys who’ve made it their mission to protect the caves in their hometown amid a welcome influx of tourists; the one about the designer who earned the opportunity to work with a globally renowned firm on what’s now a well-known city landmark. These are the stories of the people whom we fly, and knowing these stories — each of them unique, moving, colorful and complex — adds layers of meaning to what we do. Let the stories inspire you, too, by following our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/juanofakindstories). This New Year, we wish you new, wonderful and one-of-akind adventures worth sharing. Lance Gokongwei Cheers to 2015! CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Editorial

Advertising

Editor Tara F.T. Sering Art Director Marlon Espino Deputy Editor Kat Z. Mateo Sub-Editor Ross Wallace Photo Editor Jenny Peñas Production Manager Helen Uy Punzalan Contributing Editors Maya O Calica, Tata Mapa, Nikka Sarthou-Lainez (Trip Journal) Chief Sub-Editor Jonathan Evans Design Director Peter Stephens Editorial Director Alexandra Karplus Group Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys

Group Publisher Mohan Gopal Associate Publisher Bong Dy-Liacco Senior Brand Manager Andrew Lugtu Brand Managers Nastassja Lacsamana, Sheena Ong, Blessing Dizon Commercial Director David Bloomfield Tel: +65 6324 2386 • Email: smile@ink-global.com

Ink Managing Director Hamish McDougall CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke EVP Product & Business Development Michael Keating Chief Finance Officer Jim Campbell Publishing Director Simon Leslie

SMILE is published on behalf of Cebu Pacific Air by Ink Publishing Pte Ltd • 51 Changi Business Park Central 2, The Signature #04-11A/12, Singapore 486066 • tel: +65 6324 2386 • fax: +65 6491 5261 • www.ink-global.com • www.cebusmile.com MCI (P) 176/06/2014 All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of the airline. All material is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication.

M AG A Z I N E F O R C E B U PAC I F I C

JANUARY 2015

Eastern promises

“Hala bira!” THE BEAT GOES ON AT KALIBO’S ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL

HOW TO SPEND A PERFECT SAMAR WEEKEND

This month’s cover Photographer Tim Gerard Barker Art Director Marlon Espino Photo Editor Jenny Peñas Calligraphy Fozzy Castro-Dayrit Hair and Make-up Artist Lio Javier Stylist Jof Sering Model Chanel Olive Thomas/ IM Agency

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Editor’s note SShooting tthe cover

Starting the year right There’s nothing like greeting the New Year with good news: a clutch of accolades for Smile from the Asian Publishing Awards committee. The magazine was given the Gold Award, the highest honor, in the Best Wellness Feature category (“Nature’s medicine cabinet,” August 2013, on home remedies you can make from local plants) and the Best Use of Typography category (recognizing how well all the typefaces in a magazine work to convey its essence). We’re honored to have won these awards and are psyched to deliver more issues packed with fun, useful information and out-there adventures. Happy 2015, everybody!

Happy campers (from left): stylist Jof Sering; model Chanel Thomas; photographer Tim Gerard Barker; guide Khim Borin; photo editor Jenny Peñas; makeup artist Lio Javier; local guide Pon Lok; art director Marlon Espino

Camping out in style It’s a posedown between model and photographer

Jenny and the guides

Lio takes a moment

We’re not sure who to look at — Chanel or Tim

We’d like to say that shooting off the grid in intriguing Banteay Chhmar was hard work but that’s not entirely true. Sure, it was a challenge but “glamping out” in luxuriouslyappointed tents and waking up to eyeBernardo withwas the one popping sights Christopher rop for the books. Our highly knowledgeable and friendly guides made the experience all the more rewarding. Thanks, guys!

Jof, Jenny and Chanel

ARE WE FRIENDS YET? We can promise you a lot of benefits — follow us on Smile Magazine for Cebu Pacific, and SmileCebuPac to get first dibs on promos and updates on contests.

smilemag

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Our crew this issue Tim Gerard Barker Photographer For this issue clambered over ancient blocks and waded into ponds to shoot our cover and cover feature. “I never leave home without… my newest pair of walking shoes, which I bought earlier this year! I hate wearing shoes as my feet get really hot but these ones (Solomon Techamphibian 3) are made of a quick-drying, breathable open mesh with a fantastic grip on the sole. It means I no longer stop to think about getting them dirty or wet when a shot requires it.” Word for 2015? “Adventure: it keeps life interesting. I love discovering new places, trying new foods, meeting new people and experiencing new cultures. It was on one of my adventures that I learned to be a travel photographer and it’s the reason why I decided to live in Vietnam as an expat.”

Louie-An Pilapil Writer For this issue tells us more about superfood malunggay. “I never leave home without... my red scarf.” Word for 2015? “Forward, because that’s where I intend to go.”

Michael Aquino Writer For this issue gives us an in-depth report on what’s new (and very old) in Cambodia’s Banteay Chhmar. Word for 2015? “‘Family’. I’m hoping 2015 becomes the year I get to travel around South-East Asia with my family; my daughter is at just the right age to have her mind blown by the region’s different experiences.”

Nayna Katigbak Writer For this issue introduces us to the beautiful landscapes of Samar. Favorite travel trinket? “A little key fob called Felice by my friend Jof. We both lived in Boracay for awhile and this reminds me of the sun and sand wherever I go. Also, Felice is the perfect model for when my partner and I feel a little camera shy on a trip.” Word for 2015? “‘Go.’ The past year has been the most terrifying and rewarding year ever; I’m learning it’s better to hurtle through things and find my own adventure. Kurt Vonnegut was spot-on when he wrote, ‘Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God’.” Be it a lazy ferry trip to Chinatown, hiking in the boondocks up north or whatever awesome flight we score next there will be no hesitation. I’m just going to go!”

THE USUAL SUSPECTS

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Lester V. Ledesma

Jof Sering

Writer and photographer For this issue gives us an on-the-ground account of what it’s like to be at the Ati-atihan festival. “I never leave home without… my Santo Niño amulet from Cebu and a bunch of Buddhist mantras from the fortune teller in Thimpu, Bhutan.”

Stylist For this issue dressed up cover model Chanel “I never leave home without... my little pocket avatar Felice.” Word for the year? “‘Change.’ It’s time for some major transformations in work, creativity and maybe location. We’ll see where 2015 leads.”



Channel your inner Indiana Jones

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Design for good

Temple of the son

This month in Smile

We head north-west of Siem Reap to explore the ruins of Banteay Chhmar

See the beautiful things designer Bernardo Urbina makes out of debris left by Typhoon Haiyan

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BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH TALKS ABOUT HIS FANS, PROJECTS AND LOVES

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The mighty moringa

Samar loving

Merry mayhem

Find out why the malunggay is gaining popularity among health buffs

What to see, eat and do in the eastern Visayan province

Learn about the origins of the Philippines’ most famous fiesta: the Ati-atihan

Hala bira!

Wait, there's more...

Trip journal, p77

Airline news, p119

Hungry?, p124

Heading for any of the 28 international or 33 Philippine destinations on the Cebu Pacific network? Get some recommendations from the locals.

Read the latest news from the airline and get updates on destinations and routes. Plus, find out about the latest seat promotions and score great deals.

Check out the onboard menu for the latest food and beverage offerings.

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the buzz

Books to help you stick with your resolutions, p. 19

THE LATEST NEWS, SOME COOL REVIEWS AND A FEW USEFUL TIPS FOR NAVIGATING THE NETWORK

On January 9, millions of pilgrims will head to Quiapo in Manila for the Feast of the Black Nazarene, which focuses on the statue of the dark-skinned Jesus. The highlight of the celebrations is a day-long procession, called Traslacion, from Quirino Grandstand to Quiapo Church, during which many worshippers squeeze their way

through the crowd for closeup encounters with the statue. Devotees believe that if they’re able to touch the Black Nazarene or even just the rope used to pull it, their prayers will be heard and a miracle will happen in their lives.

More exciting events on the next page >

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

EXPECTING MIRACLES

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WOOHOO join the fun

Off to a good start BEGIN THE YEAR WITH A PRAYER FOR LUCK, A STREET PARTY AND PLENTY OF FIREWORKS Wakakusa Yamayaki NARA JANUARY 24 Hop on a train in Osaka and head to Nara prefecture. Make your way to Nara Park and watch the fireworks display and yamayaki (mountain burning) at Wakakusayama. The tradition is said to originate in a boundary dispute between Kofukuji and Todaiji temples.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES & CORBIS

Toka Ebisu OSAKA JANUARY 9 TO 11 During this festival, businessmen from across Japan make their way to Osaka’s Imamiya Ebisu Shrine to pray for success. Partake in the good fortune by watching the Good Luck Palanquins parade or shop for charms such as fukusasa (good luck bamboos), daruma (dharma) dolls or maneki-neko (beckoning cats).

Dinagyang Festival ILOILO JANUARY 23 TO 25 Head down to Iloilo on the fourth weekend of January and join in the dancing and the feasting. www. dinagyangsailoilo.com

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Australia Day

Sinulog Festival

SYDNEY JANUARY 26 Join your mates in Sydney as they celebrate national day. Check out www. australiaday.com.au for a complete listing of commemorative activities.

CEBU UNTIL JANUARY 31 Aside from the grand parade, which is the highlight of this month-long fiesta, you can look forward to a choral competition, cultural shows and a pyro-musical show. www.sinulog.ph

THE SANTO NIÑO — THE IMAGE OF THE INFANT JESUS — IS HONORED IN KALIBO'S ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL, ILOILO'S DINAGYANG AND CEBU'S SINULOG.

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WHOA!

must-see events

Music to your ears WHATEVER YOUR TASTE IN TUNES, THERE’S A GIG YOU CAN CATCH THIS MONTH

KIDFRIENDLY Shows to watch with the young ones

All ages MANILA DISNEY ON ICE PRESENTS DARE TO DREAM Until January 4 Inspire the kids’ ice-skating dreams in this presentation. www.ticketnet.com.ph

Singapore ST. JEROME’S LANEWAY FESTIVAL JANUARY 24 Head to The Meadow at Gardens by the Bay and enjoy music performed by acts from near and far, including American singer BANKS and Swedish electronic quartet Little Dragon. singapore.lanewayfestival.com

5 and up SINGAPORE ERTH’S DINOSAUR ZOO January 29 to February 1 Take the kids and they may get a chance to feed a dino! www.sistic.com.sg

3 and up

Across the network

Tokyo

BASTILLE LIVE JANUARY 3 TO 9 Sing along to “Pompeii”, “Of the Night” and “Things We Lost in the Fire” as the band performs live in Kuala Lumpur (3rd), Manila (5th), Hong Kong (7th) and Singapore (9th). www.bastillebastille.com

ELECTROX 2015 JANUARY 4 Superstar DJs Armin Van Buuren and DIPLO, and electronic acts DVBBS and Above & Beyond, are among the acts performing at this New Year’s dance party. www.electrox.jp

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Across the network LILY ALLEN LIVE JANUARY 27 TO FEBRUARY 2 Catch the British pop sensation as she stops by Tokyo (27th), Taipei (29th), Hong Kong (31st) and Singapore (February 2). www.lilyallenmusic.com/live/

SINGAPORE THE GRUFFALO January 22 to 25 If your kids loved the book, then they’ll feel the same about this musical adaptation. www.sistic. com.sg




AAAHH rooms we love

Cool and quiet Spacious enough for the whole family

SIEM REAP’S SOKKHAK BOUTIQUE RESORT IS A COZY OASIS OF KHMER HOSPITALITY AND MODERN COMFORTS We love discovering new places and that includes hotels and resorts. It’s barely four months old, but already the newest addition to Siem Reap’s gallery of charming boutique luxury hotels and resorts is creating some major buzz. Sokkhak Boutique Resort, after all, bears all the hallmarks of a winning property. Here’s why it gets our thumbs up: IT’S GOT A GREAT LOCATION A perfect base in Siem Reap that puts you in the middle of all the essentials — it’s 5km from the airport, 3km from the city center (a quick 10-minute trip via tuk-tuk to Pub Street costs US$2 each way) and 4km from the temple town of Angkor — Sokkhak saves you both money and time, which means more sightseeing. And if you’re the

type who can’t resist hauling back a stash of presents for the folks back home, the souvenir shop is a mere 10-minute walk from the Sokkhak. If you’re keen to venture farther afield, the resort offers a whole menu of leisure and adventure tours you can enjoy. IT’S GOT THE LOCAL TOUCH The growing demand for more rooms in buzzy-andgetting-buzzier Siem Reap compelled the owners, who also own One Sokkhak Spa and two dining spots in town, to branch out into hotels and resorts. A local Khmer architect was commissioned to produce a design blending traditional

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and modern Khmer styles with some Western influences. Still, it’s not part of a chain so all the local flavor gives you an amazing sense of place. The details — from the use of local wood, to the lotus pod-themed décor and silk-covered pillows, to the eye-catching fauna on the lush grounds — will leave no doubt that you’re in tropical Indochina. IT’S SMALL, QUIET AND WONDERFUL Sokkhak has only six suites and

six standard rooms; the Home Suite, the biggest in the resort, can accommodate up to five people. But the hotel name is Sanskrit for tranquility so naturally it’s an overarching theme. There are many quiet corners indoors and leafshaded spots outside. THERE’S A PROMOTION ON RIGHT NOW Book a four-night stay and enjoy a 30% discount on all room types.

SOKKHAK BOUTIQUE RESORT KOK CHORK VILLAGE, TRORPEANG SES COMMUNE, WAT THMEY, SIEM REAP; TEL: +855 63 765697; +855 63 765660; WWW.SOKKHAK-BOUTIQUERESORT.COM

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(+632) 794-9999 US Direct No. +1-2134020502 brittany.com.ph


rawr

stuff we love 3

New gear resolutions

LOAD YOUR KINDLE WITH THESE Learn how to keep your resolutions with the help of these books from Amazon.com

THESE NIFTY GADGETS WILL HELP YOU STICK WITH YOUR GOALS

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THE POWER OF HABIT: WHY WE DO WHAT WE DO IN LIFE AND BUSINESS BY CHARLES DUHIGG Understand how habits work and how you can change them.

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This tracks sleep, too

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GO ON MORE ADVENTURES Record the moment you reach Mount Kinabalu’s summit or the first time you step on a surfboard in Siargao with a GoPro Hero4. www.gopro.com

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GET FIT The Jawbone UP24 not only tracks your activities, calories burned and how long and how well you’ve slept, it also has a Smart Coach,

which offers tips to help you reach your goals. www.jawbone.com

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READ MORE Whether you’re aiming to read six, 12 or 24 books this year, having a Kindle makes reaching your target easier. You can store your entire library on the device, so once you finish one book, you can immediately start another. www.amazon.com

THE WILLPOWER INSTINCT: HOW SELFCONTROL WORKS, WHY IT MATTERS AND WHAT YOU CAN DO TO GET MORE OF IT BY KELLY MCGONIGAL, PH.D. Learn how to make willpower work for you.

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KEEP IN TOUCH WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY The iPhone 6 is not only a beautiful and useful piece piec of tech, it makes staying in touch with your favorite favori people easier, too. Load it with messaging apps such as Skype, Viber and WhatsApp and reach out at any time of the day. There’s Facetime, too. store.apple.com/ph

DECISIVE: HOW TO MAKE BETTER CHOICES IN LIFE AND WORK BY CHIP HEATH AND DAN HEATH Learn about the four traps that affect decision-making and how to overcome them.

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oooh

antique finds

From trash to treasure GET A GLIMPSE OF THE OLD SINGAPORE AT TONG MERN SERN, A 42-YEAR-OLD SHOP IN TANJONG PAGAR

Located on Craig Road, just a short walk from Chinatown, Tong Mern Sern Antiques, Arts & Crafts occupies an old,

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three-story shophouse that’s full to bursting with vintage goods. Browse everything from porcelain, Peranakan tiles and wood carvings to antique luggage, furniture, jewelry, pendant lamps, bicycles, old typewriters and much more. Trash or treasure? It all depends on your point of view.

Keng Ah Wong, its chatty owner, set up shop in 1972. “I didn’t know anything about antiques when I started. I just collected things that people threw away,” he says. “I just learned from my customers.”

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Next time you’re in town, stop by for a visit. If you’re lucky, you might find a one-of-a-kind item you can take home. At the very least, you can have a talk with Uncle Keng.

TONG MERN SERN IS LOCATED AT 51 CRAIG RD, SINGAPORE, TEL: +65 6223 1037; WWW.TMSANTIQUES.COM

PHOTOS BY JENNY PEÑAS

Just some of the goods at Uncle Keng's




yum!

healthy eats

The mighty moringa THE HUMBLE PLANT IS FINALLY GETTING THE ATTENTION IT DESERVES The whole world has begun to discover that malunggay (moringa in English) is a superfood. It’s called the “miracle tree” for a reason. All of it — leaves, fruits, roots — packs nutrients like nothing else. Better yet, it grows just about anywhere and everywhere in its native regions in Africa and Asia, free from the need for

special care. In the Philippines, malunggay is added in abundance to many dishes — mostly in comfort foods like soups — more for its flavor than its nutritional content. Now, however, people are learning of its health benefits and consuming it as a tea, in capsule form and as a key component of juices and smoothies.

With seven times the Vitamin C in an orange, four times the calcium in milk and three times the potassium in a banana to name just a few, malunggay is known to reduce cholesterol, control blood sugar spikes and help fight diabetes and cancer. There’s no doubt that malunggay should be a part of everyone’s diet.

TRY THIS AT HOME

TEXT BY LOUIE-AN PILAPIL; PHOTO (PASTA) BY GETTY IMAGES

This malunggay pesto recipe is good for three to four servings of pasta. You can use angel hair, fettucine, linguine or spaghetti. 1/2 cup malunggay leaves, washed and dried 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, washed and dried 2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon chopped roasted cashew nuts or toasted pine nuts 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste malunggay leaves for garnish (optional) In a blender or food processor, combine all ingredients and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with the pasta. Garnish with malunggay leaves, if desired. Recipe by Rachelle Santos, courtesy of Yummy magazine. www.yummy.ph

GET YOUR DOSE OF MALUNGGAY AT THESE EATERIES Mais a la Sibyla (Suam na mais with prawns and malunggay leaves) ELIAS Bonifacio High St Central, Cnr 7th Ave and 30th St, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City; www.elias.ph Kalabasa soup with malunggay CABALEN G/F, Market Market East Mall, Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City Kalamansi malunggay juice CRISOSTOMO 2/F, Veranda, Eastwood Mall, Brgy Bagumbayan, Quezon City; www. crisostomo.ph Moringa ravioli LARRY’S CAFÉ & BAR G/F, Serendra, Retail Area, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City

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THESE AWESOME PEOPLE REALLY KNOW THEIR STUFF — HEAR IT STRAIGHT FROM THEM

PHOTO BY DALE MAY/CORBIS OUTLINE/CLICK PHOTOS

NOT ALWAYS DAPPER Benedict Cumberbatch is always spruced up when he appears on the red carpet. But he doesn’t look that way all the time. “You wouldn’t want to see what I wear at home. It’s all about loose-fitting clothes. If you’re trussed up in really sharp, tailored slim-fit suits, the last thing you want to do is lounge about in them at home,” he says with a laugh. “I do what I think most people do: I get into track suit bottoms — they’re lovingly geared to lounge about in.”

Turn the page for more from Cumberbatch >

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HOT TOPIC

chatfest with Hollywood stars

Man of the moment ACTOR AND SOCIAL MEDIA DARLING BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH EXPLAINS HOW HE STAYS CENTERED AMID ALL THE ATTENTION AND REVEALS WHAT HE’S TRULY THANKFUL FOR BY RUBEN V. NEPALES

Benedict Cumberbatch’s Britishness — the cool reserve, accentuated by the scholarly glasses and the formal tone of voice, which is surprisingly soothing — occasionally gives way to another stereotypically English quality: dry wit. On the day we met, the 38-year-old actor had just arrived in Los Angeles from London but jet lag couldn’t put a damper on his British humor. Sporting a blazer and what many of his rabid fans, upon seeing online photos, described as his “favorite plum pants,” Benedict had good reason to be in high spirits. He’s in the running for best actor honors this awards season on

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the strength his compelling portrayal of World War II cryptographer Alan Turing in director Morten Tyldum’s The Imitation Game. He’s a busy man. The actor who has the title role in the TV series Sherlock and stars as Richard III in the TV mini-series The Hollow Crown is amassing quite an A-list resume, from current hits like The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies and Penguins of Madagascar to forthcoming releases like Black Mass and The Lost City of Z. How did you react when you first heard that some of your fans call themselves “Cumberbitches”?

My fans are incredibly smart, self-regulating, intelligent, witty, creative, inspiring, young and young in spirit and determined. They come from both sexes. As far as what some called themselves early on, it just caught on. It was a catchy phrase and I only corrected it gently. These are smart, empowered and expressive women. They weren’t intentionally belittling themselves or their sex by calling themselves “Cumberbitches”. But I just said, “Maybe we can think of a slightly softer name for a collective noun for people who like my work.” That was the idea behind it.

Clockwise: Benedict with fiancée Sophie Hunter; scenes from The Imitation Game


But I didn’t need to really do that because like I said, they are very intuitive and a selfcorrecting and smart brunch. So they’ve taken all sorts of different names now. As long as they’re enjoying my work and who I am as a person, that’s all that matters. So whatever the fans want to call themselves is fine. What are you grateful for these days? The love that is in my life at the moment, naturally. It’s an amazing thing to find somebody you love, let alone somebody who loves you back in the same way and to the same degree. Not everyone is so lucky. It’s a minor miracle, considering how busy we both are (laughs) that we met in this way. So, Sophie is someone I’m incredibly grateful for and very excited about.

TEXT BY RUBEN V. NEPALES; PHOTOS BY GETTY IMAGES

That was a nice traditional touch in the

way you announced your engagement [via UK newspaper The Times]. It’s a standard way of doing it in England. Maybe it’s old-fashioned but I would still have done it that way even if I weren’t in this strange, heightened position, being a famous actor. I just tried to normalize something that was deeply personal to me. I knew the world would find out, obviously. But I didn’t want to publicize it beyond what I initially wanted to publicize it as, which was an announcement to my friends and family. Because, believe me, although I told as many people after the moment, I had to go back to playing Richard III [in The Hollow Crown, a TV mini-series]. I couldn’t spend all the time on the phone. It was a way of announcing it to friends and family and I suppose a quiet way for the world to find out about it. What else are you thankful for? For my health and the health of my family and for the fact I’m still here chugging away. And for the opportunities in my working life. Those are the three strong bases. It’s a bit of a golden moment for me and I’m loving it. I’m having a great time and I’m very happy. Well, touch wood (knocks on the table), I have given up smoking so that helps. I shouldn’t say that because if I ever have a cigarette again, it will be in the papers. “Oh, he lied.” I haven’t smoked for a month now. I’m dying for a cigarette right now. No, I’m joking. I’m fine. I try to eat healthy. I try not to eat too much late at night. I try to do some exercise every day for at least half an hour. Crikey! What other secrets? A few supplements are very handy. And I try to sleep. I’m struggling at the moment

“My health, the health of my family and the opportunities in my working life. Those are three strong bases. It’s a bit of a golden moment for me” because my clock is all over the place… but I get a lot of help, a lot of great people around me. How do you stay centered amid all this attention and the busy schedule? Even if it’s a 10-minute break to just meditate and see what the hell is going on in here (points to his head) after all of this. Because so much of what I am at the moment is about talking, communicating and everything is externalized. To take care of the inner traffic — and it’s very easy to forget about that in these heightened environments — I do that [meditate]. I read novels or nonfiction. It’s healthy to keep up with your hobbies as well, but God knows I was better at learning a bit of French every day, a piece of poetry or all the other things I promised myself in the few moments I could grasp. Recently, it seems you’ve done one movie after another. Are you the type who doesn’t like to see blank spaces in your work calendar? No, it just looks that way. But I’m getting to the stage where it’s been such an embarrassment of riches. The kind of work I’ve been offered, it’s been very hard to turn down and say, “No, I need more breathing space”.

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It’s like what one of the characters that I play, Sherlock, says, “A change of work is as good as a holiday.” That’s a paraphrase and, pretty much, it’s true. Different engines give you the feeling that you’re doing something so different that it requires a different energy and isn’t exhausting. I don’t suffer from being a workaholic. At heart, I’m incredibly lazy. I love nothing better than to kick back, see friends and family and just go on a few more holidays. I did actually have quite a lot of time at the beginning of last year. I was going to be doing a film, The Lost City of Z with [director] James Gray. That was put on hold because of problems with the location. Hopefully, it will start this year. As if you aren’t busy enough, you also narrate audio books. I love doing audio books because you can create an entire world, which is full of pitfalls. You get to page 80 and it says, “She announced in her rasping octogenarian Hungarian accent…” and you go, “Oh no, I’ve been playing her as a 20-year-old ingénue!” I still manage to do other things. I go to grands prix. I go to Oz Comic-Con in Australia. But, around that period, [early last year], I had a lot of free time and adventures.

BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH IS SET TO PLAY THE ROLE OF MARVEL SUPERHERO DOCTOR STRANGE. THE FILM IS DUE OUT IN NOVEMBER 2016.

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WANDER LUST

In Australia with wife Suzi

travel like a pro

A temple in Tokyo Central Station, Australia

Travel must: coffee!

He’s got game Keeping fit in Tokyo

His experiences back in the late ’90s as host of Gameplan, a popular sports and lifestyle show, taught Paolo Abrera a thing or two about travel. “It opened my eyes to the idea of trying to make the most out of any place,” he says. “It may be off the beaten path, but each place has a unique lesson to teach a visitor.” So even now that he has become the host of Mornings@ANC, Green Living and Health Matters and the brains behind production outfit Tripleshot Media Inc., Paolo still manages to schedule a holiday and spend time with his wife Suzi and

TV HOST PAOLO ABRERA INDULGES HIS WANDERLUST WITH AN OPEN HEART AND MIND kids Leona, Jade and Nella. “Juggling work, family and other interests leaves me little time for much else but I do try to find a few days throughout the year to fit in a [solo] trip, a couple’s trip with Suzi and a family trip with our kids.” And it’s all worth it. “I love the idea of being away and coming back enriched from experiencing a different culture and perspective,” he says. “You become a better person, wiser and more open to the world. Even a three-hour bus ride from your usual neighborhoods will already open your eyes

to new perspectives.” Paolo’s travel plans this year include a return trip with Suzi to all-time favorite destination Japan for the cherry blossom festival. He’s also keen to enjoy a summer beach getaway to Cebu, Boracay or Coron with the family. “My parents always valued the lessons travel teaches you over other things,” he says. “Now that I have kids of my own, I hope to share the same lessons with them.” Paolo, who considers himself a “curious traveler”, says his travel style may have changed through the years. “Having had the

Ready for adventure in Mexico

chance to experience more backpack-style travel during Gameplan and, more recently, an opportunity to travel with a bit more comfort, I guess I’m somewhere in between now,” he admits. “I’m really more about the destination rather than the mode of travel. Much of it is with my family in tow, and considerations have to be made. But as our kids grow up, more options become possible as their interests broaden.”

Turn the page for Paolo's top travel tips >

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WANDER LUST

Checking out Coronado Beach, San Diego

Alone time with Suzi in Laiya, Batangas

With the family in Sydney

Paolo’s tips for fuss-free travel

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PACK LIGHT (BUT BRING ALONG AN EXTRA BAG) Nothing says “inexperienced traveler” more than rolling off of the bus, boat, train or plane with a huge suitcase. It’s an inconvenience to you and your fellow travelers, especially when you have to transit to your accommodations via local transport. There’s always a tendency to overpack when traveling, but in the early days I always came home with more clean clothes than dirty ones. I pack lots of clean socks and underwear but just repeat jeans, jackets and tops. Of course, if you’re traveling and expect to get clothes soiled and dirty after one use, pack accordingly. Pack a small bag heading out, but make sure you pack a foldable second bag for your inevitable pasalubong or souvenirs on the way home.

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ALWAYS HAVE A REUSABLE WATER BOTTLE Water is a necessity, but you

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should avoid having to buy disposable bottles that just add to the world’s garbage problem. Many places I’ve visited have perfectly drinkable tap water. Another strategy I follow is this: whenever we sit for a meal at a café or restaurant, I ask for my bottle to be refilled with water. It saves you money, too.

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VISIT THE LOCAL MARKET While it might tend to be off the usual tourist itinerary, a trip to the local market is always interesting for me. You get a real sense of what the place is all about from the goods you see for sale and the kind of food that’s enjoyed by the locals. There’s always so much local color there. It’s usually good for cheap eats and unusual finds to take home, too.

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GO FOR A RUN Some of my best sightseeing happens when I lace up my running shoes and go for an early morning run. The pace is slower and I’ve discovered many places near where I stay

that I wouldn’t have come across had I been on a bus or train. Keeping to your usual workout routine also means you have an excuse to eat more.

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LEARN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE I’m not talking expert levels here (though it wouldn’t hurt), but a little bit of the local pleasantries, like “thank you”, “hello/goodbye” and “cheers”, always go a long way in making a good impression on the locals. It shows you cared enough to learn and immerse yourself in their culture. “Where’s the bathroom?” is also an important one to learn.

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DOWNLOAD APPS In this day and age, almost everyone uses a smartphone. There are tons of apps out there, from digital guidebooks to train timetables, restaurant lists to maps. You don’t always have to be online either. Screen-capture relevant pages when you have Internet access at your hotel and use maps and guides

Going luxe in Mactan, Cebu

offline. They don’t call it a smartphone for nothing.

7

DRINK LOTS OF COFFEE Cafés and travel are forever linked in my mind: that first pick-me-up after an early morning flight or that last lingering cup right before you board and fly home. Sitting at a café to watch the world go by is one of my favorite things to do on any trip. And unless you’ve arranged for some kind of data-roaming service, it usually gives you a chance to hook up to WiFi and Google your next destination, look for restaurant tips on TripAdvisor and, most importantly, update your Instagram!

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SEND POSTCARDS They say snail mail is dead but this is a habit I’ve never outgrown. Nothing gives me more pleasure than putting pen to paper and reaching out to friends far away to somehow share the experience of being in whatever place I’m in.

TEXT AND INTERVIEW BY CHARMAINE BAYLON

In rain-soaked Osaka



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IN THE WORKshop... with Tacloban Prevails

Design for good WITH HIS TACLOBAN PREVAILS LINE, FURNITURE DESIGNER BERNARDO URBINA CONTINUES TO CHANGE THE LIVES OF TYPHOON HAIYAN SURVIVORS FOR THE BETTER When Typhoon Haiyan hit the Philippines in 2013, thousands banded together to help those in need. For Bernardo Urbina, a Cebubased Costa Rican furniture designer who has worked in New York and Milan, its devastating effects signaled a turning point in his career. Seeing the destruction wrought by the typhoon, he created Tacloban Prevails, a furniture line produced using debris bought from those affected by the typhoon. A key element of the company’s ethos is the involvement of survivors in transforming such scraps into sleek pieces with character. They receive 10% of the proceeds from sales. At a time when there’s a growing clamor for his unique and eye-catching designs, Bernardo revisits his experiences and reveals a few details of Tacloban Prevails’ next offering.

society and create a bridge of communication between the end user and Filipinos affected by the typhoon through furniture.

What sparked the idea for this foray into the repurposing business? Repurposing materials has always been something I’ve wanted to do. It wasn’t until I was in Cebu that I saw the opportunity not only to repurpose and upcycle materials but to give back to

How has it been since? The first time we went to the outskirts of Tacloban to scout for debris, we had no idea what to expect. It was quite exciting to walk around the villages and talk to the locals, taking them out of their daily routine and explaining to them why

Bernardo with the Christopher rope lamp

we wanted their debris for furniture. Now that I have a clear idea of what kind of debris I want, it makes it harder to find — but once I find it I feel inspired by it. I design around the debris in order to expose its imperfections and its story, trying to maintain the fact that it had a previous life. What are the more unusual bits of debris you’ve come across? Did it take some

unusual design tricks to transform them? One of the most unusual scraps that inspired me to design an item [a wine rack] was the cart of a boy named Francisko. It took several weeks to find the right design that we felt would be appreciated. I knew it was going to be something special but I had no idea what I was going to do with it when I bought it. The ideating, constant sketching and searching for the right design is a long process. The Grace coffee table, for example, has it own personality, not only because it’s made from a broken headboard but because of the thought behind it. It was extremely important for me to have a gap between the edge of the glass and the part of the headboard that serves as the legs. This creates a visually interesting coffee table since the glass is also held from underneath. Usually with tables, the glass is just placed on top of the legs. Any favorites among your designs? Each time we get back from scouting debris, the

Learn more about Bernardo and Tacloban Prevails >

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IN THE WORKSHOP... Some pieces are named after the sources of their primary raw material, such as the 1 Melvin coffee table, 2 Francisko wine rack, 3 Grace coffee table, 4 and 5, the ottoman and LED lamp created from an old boat

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TEXT AND INTERVIEW BY CHARMAINE BAYLON

collection that comes out of it becomes my favorite. Since it’s practically impossible to find the same debris twice, everything is unique. At the moment, my favorite designs would have to be the Grace, Melvin and Ronilo coffee tables. I feel that the living room is where one usually hosts family and friends and where one spends the most time when at home. Having said that, I will always find a way to create a conversational item that the end user would be proud to place at home. We’re also excited to share our new items soon. Tell us more about your next collection. Our recent batch of debris, which we scouted and handpicked, just arrived from Tacloban. Now we’re working on the collection, which involves debris with carvings and consists mainly of broken furniture that we’ve upcycled and given new life as another type of furniture. In the past, we were creating furniture out of driftwood like many other furniture companies. This collection will be unique; no other company is doing anything similar. Beyond Tacloban Prevails and its social purpose, what else affects or influences your work?

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5

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My work is influenced by nature and by my constant observation of the behaviors and situations around me. I take it all in and appreciate its beauty. You’ve lived and worked in quite a few different countries. How have your travels and experiences shaped the way you see and create furniture?

@

They’ve given me the opportunity to understand design and how it’s viewed and appreciated in different places. I believe design is a way to communicate with people. If as a designer you’ve created a beautiful item, then you’ve done a good job. But if you’ve

FOR MORE ON TACLOBAN PREVAILS, VISIT WWW.TACLOBANPREVAILS.COM

designed a piece that inspires an emotional reaction and sparks conversations, and at the same time is functional and aesthetically appealing, then you’ve succeeded as a designer. These are the sorts of designs that last a lifetime. The designs of Tacloban Prevails achieve this since each piece has its own unique story. What’s next for you and Tacloban Prevails? We’ve been working closely with the new Ironwood Hotel in Tacloban. They’re remodeling an old building and asked me to design some furniture using debris from it. We want to preserve the history of the old building by upcycling raw and structural material from the building into furniture. We’ve also partnered with Tacloban Community Crafts. We designed small interior accessories and proceeds from the sale of these products will go to the organization. We’re looking into selling these items at the Cebu International Airport and Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport in Tacloban. Beyond that, we’re hoping to take our upcoming collection overseas. We’d like to share the story of the Taclobanons with people in other countries.

www.cebusmile.com /

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1

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features ON CHANEL: TOP AND JEANS BY TOPSHOP; BOOTS BY AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS; ACCESSORIES BY PROMOD. FOR STORES, VISIT WWW.CEBUSMILE.COM.

WE’VE GATHERED STORIES FROM ACROSS THE NETWORK TO INSPIRE YOUR NEXT TRIP

FEARLESS FORECAST FOR 2015 The next big travel trend? Digging around for stories on ancient civilizations in off-the-tourist-map destinations such as Cambodia’s Banteay Chhmar — check out how we did it (page 44). Also in this issue: weather-sculpted Samar and a legendary street party you shouldn’t miss.

The joy of discovery begins when you turn the page >

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Presenting the past

Temple of 44

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Presenting the past

the son

Smile travels north-west of Siem Reap to trace a centuries-old story of loyalty, intrigue and rebellion with a cast of thousands, the same story that could hold the secret to Banteay Chhmar’s second act as an exciting, off-the-grid adventure spot BY MICHAEL AQUINO

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’m a person, not a mountain goat, I tell myself as I carefully position my foot on an awkwardly angled sandstone block and shift my weight. My traveling companions are coping with Banteay Chhmar’s topsy-turvy walking paths better than I am at the moment, leaving me to bring up the rear. In my struggle, I almost forget to look up. When I do,

it’s directly in front of me: the Bayonstyle “face tower” known as Tower 18, its impassive visages held high, as if human vices and the caprices of nature had not laid its surroundings low. Built on shakier ground than Angkor Wat, the Cambodian temple of Banteay Chhmar was doomed even before the last stone block fell into place in 1216AD. Over the centuries, Banteay

Chhmar’s component parts steadily succumbed to war, neglect and greed until a host of international NGOs took action in the 20th century to preserve the remnants that survived. What remains today displays a heartbreaking beauty, precisely because much of what has been “lost” is still here, albeit scarred and battered beyond recognition.


Presenting the past

Temple guide Pon Lok (at left) interprets the stories etched in stone at Banteay Chhmar; the lives of locals in the area are as compelling a backdrop as the carvings on the walls

Off the beaten path No tuk-tuk or public transport connects Siem Reap with Banteay Chhmar. Getting there — as with exploring the temple itself — requires a solid commitment, and therein lies part of its charm. A hired van picks us up in Siem Reap early in the morning and we’re soon speeding west down National Highway 6 for about 100km. At the city of Sisophon, the van makes an abrupt turn north, heading up the unfinished National Road 56 and kicking up clouds of dust as we go along. All told, three hours have passed by the time we reach the moat encircling the temple complex. The journey to Banteay Chhmar, even at the height of its glory, was never easy. The site was always out of the way, even as the Khmer kings

built a highway system that stretched from Prasat Hin Phimai in the north (in present-day Thailand) to Angkor Wat in the south. Travelers to Banteay Chhmar had to venture about 50km off the nearest road; 800 years later, the trip isn’t a whole lot easier to make. So why build a massive temple in such a remote place? Nobody can say for sure. There may already have been a thriving Buddhist community on this site circa 800AD, long before the Khmer King Jayavarman VII ordered the construction of Banteay Chhmar in the 12th century. But the presence

of images of Jayavarman’s son in the temple’s stone-relief carvings may point to a personal — and quite tragic — point of origin.

Battle on the eastern wall In the pantheon of Khmer kings, King Jayavarman VII stands as the greatest of them all. During his 30-year reign about eight centuries ago, he expelled Cham invaders, put down a rebellion and initiated an ambitious building program that gave the world Bayon, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Angkor Thom, all in present-day Siem Reap.

Getting to Banteay Chhmar — as with exploring the temple itself — requires a solid commitment, and therein lies part of its charm 46

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Presenting the past

ON CHANEL: TOP BY TOPSHOP; LACE COVER-UP AND CARGO PANTS BY AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS; NECKLACE AND BRACELET BY PROMOD

Rough it

In most of these ventures, he had the help of his son, the crown prince Indravarman. A giant tableau on the eastern wall — painstakingly reconstructed from the surrounding rubble by archaeologists and local volunteers — tells the epic story of the king’s battles, with Indravarman constantly by his side. The eastern wall is just a fragment of what once stood here; only about 300ft of the original 1,300ft of sandstone wall remain. This is our first stop in the Banteay Chhmar complex; we climb a short wooden staircase to the wall platform and marvel at the expansive sandstone panel before us, which depicts an epic battle between the Khmer and the Cham. In the image, gigantic figures of Jayavarman VII and Indravarman

oversee lines of Khmer soldiers as they attack the Cham formations head-on. As the action progresses from left to right, the Cham break formation, retreating to the safety of their lands across a river. Bareheaded Khmer chase down fleeing (and head-dressed) Cham, who peer fearfully over their shoulders.

Storied stones Once we’re past the eastern wall, getting to Banteay Chhmar’s component parts requires a great deal more agility and balance. Instead of level ground or paved sandstone, we’re traveling on jumbled blocks that litter the ground, the remains of Banteay Chhmar’s walls. The tumbled, skewed blocks of sandstone bear witness to centuries of neglect. 47

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HOW TO GET THERE About 160km of highway separate Siem Reap and Banteay Chhmar. Cambodia’s public transport system does not cover this stretch so you’ll have to book a ride either through the Banteay Chhmar Community Based Tourism Office or via associated tour agencies. ACCOMMODATIONS Banteay Chhmar is too distant for a day trip. Stay overnight in one of the villages surrounding the temple for a more well-rounded experience. Homestays can be booked via the Community Based Tourism Office. You’ll crash on plain beds in ordinary homes with no air conditioning. Overnight stays cost US$7 per person per night. It’s US$2 for breakfast. Banteay Chhmar Community Based Tourism Office, tel: +855 (0)97 516 5533, www.visitbanteaychhmar.org



Presenting the past

After touring the temple, Banteay Chhmar visitors can check out the area’s other top sites such as Soieries du Mekong silk factory, farther-flung ruins like Banteay Top and the Pol Pot Baray

Ongoing work by the Global Heritage Fund (GHF) has uncovered the root cause of Banteay Chhmar’s fragility: terrible foundation work. “The foundations vary randomly from just a bed of sand in some areas to a layer of laterite [a type of soil] to the occasional sandstone block,” a 2011 GHF paper concluded. “If this lack of foundations is indeed carried throughout the complex, the extent of the collapse is perhaps not so surprising.” The surrounding jungle also played a part in Banteay Chhmar’s destruction. Cracks between the stone slabs were invaded by tree roots and creepers; as the trees grew, the expanding roots pushed the blocks apart and ultimately brought the walls down. Human greed, though, inflicted greater damage

within a shorter span. As we scramble over the western side of Banteay Chhmar’s inner wall, we pass one of the temple’s two surviving bas-reliefs of the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the enlightened being who emanates compassion for humanity. Avalokitesvara was revered throughout the Khmer Empire; devout Buddhists rendered the image of this great aspirant to Buddha-hood with eleven heads and a thousand arms to symbolize his receptiveness to the cries of the unredeemed and his willingness to help the needy. An ugly hole in the southwestern wall, jack-hammered away in 1998 by suspected rogue Cambodian Army troops, testifies to the detrimental effect of avarice on Cambodia’s priceless cultural heritage. 49

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The authorities nabbed some of the thieves responsible and recovered part of the pilfered wall in a covered truck bound for Thailand. This shipment was taken to the National Museum in Phnom Penh for safekeeping but a larger portion, containing two other reliefs of Avalokitesvara, simply vanished into the ether. Such threats are being held at bay, at least for the moment. Since undertaking massive restoration work in 2008, US-based NGO Global Heritage Fund’s (GHF) archaeologists and their Khmer counterparts have managed to prevent further looting, reconstruct large sections of the temple and coordinate with surrounding towns to implement a communitybased tourism program.



Presenting the past

ON CHANEL: DRESS BY AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS; BOHEME DRESS, HAT AND BRACELET BY PROMOD; BAG BY THE LOST NOMAD

Camping, albeit in comfort and style, heightens the experience of discovery and outdoor adventure

Glamp it up

Farewell, sweet prince All this work has yet to solve the mystery of Banteay Chhmar’s cloudy origins. As we continue to walk along the western wall, tantalizing clues crop up that appear to reveal more about the life of crown prince Indravarman. A section of the western wall features Indravarman prominently in a scene that seems more fantastic than reallife. The Hindu monster Rahu, bringer of eclipses, can be seen twice, battling Indravarman and devouring a beast of burden hitched to a cart. Could this be a metaphor for Indravarman’s successful battle against a pretender with designs on the throne? And did the prince die in the process? It’s possible that Indravarman himself did not survive the battles depicted on Banteay Chhmar’s walls. The inscriptions in Phnom Penh reveal

that he was honored in a sanctuary within Banteay Chhmar, along with four lieutenants who had died saving his life. Perhaps a distraught King Jayavarman VII ordered the construction of Banteay Chhmar to memorialize the prince. Perhaps the remote temple site marks the spot where the prince fought one of his many running battles against the Cham. Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps. Out of the 50 “face towers” that once stood in Banteay Chhmar, only Tower 18 survives.

If the towers could talk Constructed in the Bayon style pioneered during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, Tower 18 retains each of its four original faces, which look out to the cardinal points. This is the last stop on our Banteay Chhmar grand 51

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Khiri Travel offers a pricier two-day “glamping” package that lets guests stay right on the Banteay Chhmar temple grounds (pictured here). The package includes transport to and from Siem Reap, guided tours of the temple and of surrounding sites, and charming al fresco meals in the shadow of the area’s Khmer ruins. It’s all so luxe. Guests sleep in waterproof Gore-tex tents equipped with the creature comforts typical of hotels: wooden beds with thick mattresses and clean linens; thick carpeting; en suite bathrooms with toilet and rainshower and round-theclock electricity. In the evening of the first day, weather permitting, you’ll watch the sun set over Pol Pot Baray and have dinner with Khmer weddingsong accompaniment provided by musicians who play traditional instruments. In the morning, you’ll wake to breakfast with a view of Banteay Chhmar’s western wall before setting off to explore the other ruins in the area. Khiri Travel, tel: +855 23 215970; www.khiri.com


With the arrival of a growing number of visitors, the ruins of Banteay Chhmar now provide various means of livelihood for many local residents

tour, set right in the middle of a field of scattered sandstone blocks that require the aforementioned mountain goat skills to navigate successfully. Heavy monsoon rains in 2009 might have brought Tower 18 down with the rest of the walls here were it not for the heroic efforts of the GHF. The foundation brought in high tech to save Tower 18. Using a unique, computer-assisted modeling program pioneered by the University of Heidelberg, GHF archaeologists made 3D scans of each block in Tower 18. Then they reassembled the lot in virtual space and used their computer simulation to re-engineer the tower to better cope with the elements. It’s a pity sandstone can neither see nor speak; I can only imagine the stories that Tower 18’s four faces could

tell. A thriving religious community numbering in the hundreds of thousands lived within these walls for hundreds of years. That is, until the rising Ayutthaya kingdom in the northwest invaded, eventually eclipsing the Khmer for good. For all of Jayavarman and Indravarman’s struggles against the Cham, the actual finishing blow to their empire would come from the opposite direction. We scramble over a mess of sandstone blocks, some of them perilously loose, and exit under an intricately carved lintel set on the north wall. A wooden gangplank suspended over these last few yards helps us along and offers a hint of what the complete Banteay Chhmar experience might be like in a few years: tourists may soon traverse the entire temple complex on 52

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such gangplanks, avoiding the need for steady reflexes and footwear with grip. Sadly, the temple may never be completely restored. John Sanday, the GHF’s Asia & Pacific regional director, aims to rebuild just a few key highlights of Banteay Chhmar as opposed to carrying out an expensive and tedious full reconstruction. The idea is not to reverse history’s effects but to let them play a central role in the presentation. For visitors, it’s not about seeing Banteay Chhmar temple as it used to be; it’s about recognizing that this ancient site, overtaken by the effects of time and nature, possesses a desolate beauty all its own. Cebu Pacific flies to Siem Reap from Manila. www.cebupacificair.com

ON CHANEL: PURPLE SHIRT BY PROMOD; ACID WASH JEANS BY TOPSHOP; BACKPACK BY AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS; NECKLACE BY PROMOD

Presenting the past



First of the festivals

Tribal-warrior costumes, pounding drums, soot-blackened faces and the Santo Niño are the trademarks of Kalibo’s Ati-atihan. Celebrated for at least 800 years, this annual event is considered the “mother of all fiestas” in the Philippines

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Merry mayhem We kick off the New Year with a bang and a lot of drum-beating as Lester V. Ledesma leads us on a march through the history of Kalibo’s Ati-atihan, the Philippines’ longest-running street party

A

s you read these words, you can bet the townsfolk of Kalibo in the province of Aklan are preparing for another round of wanton merrymaking. It all happens on the third weekend of this month (that’s January 16 to 18), when the normally tame and timid locals take on a

considerably wilder disposition. Out comes the street décor on these days, along with the drums, the costumes and the free-flowing booze. Here in the Philippines, where festivities are a way of life, Kalibo’s Ati-atihan is easily the loudest, liveliest and most famous of them all. It’s a classic symbol of the fiesta islands: the festival’s soot-blackened,


First of the festivals

colourfully costumed revelers grooving their way into thousands of postcards. The Ati-atihan has long been the de facto symbol of the fun-loving Pinoy culture, its practice dating back at least 800 years. So renowned is this tradition that it’s been referred to as the “Mother of All Philippine Fiestas”, a tribute to its pedigree and the fact that it has inspired countless similarly styled occasions elsewhere. Despite its popularity, the roots of this fiesta are somewhat unclear, though there are a number of origin stories that hint at its multi-faceted history. One version states that the Ati-atihan was first held in 1212, when the region’s early Malay settlers formed a peace pact with the darkskinned Ati natives. Another account goes back further, claiming that this tradition commemorates “The Barter of Panay”, a pseudo-historic trade between the Ati and a group of Malays

led by 10 Bornean datu for the right to live on the island. As a show of solidarity with their new neighbors, the newcomers were said to have danced and smeared themselves with soot, thus originating the festival’s trademark. This age-old act of mimicry is reflected in the Ati-atihan name, which translates as “become like an Ati”. There’s also the Catholic angle to the story, which holds that one fine January morning centuries ago, the Spaniards converted one thousand (“isa ka libo” in the dialect) natives in the name of the Santo Niño, an event that gave the locale its modern name of Kalibo as well as the festival’s Christian color. Whatever its true beginnings, this celebration upholds a host of ageold traditions: crowds of Aklanons take to the streets carrying drums, booze and images of the Santo Niño. Occasionally they raise their voices in

The solemn side of the Ati-atihan can be seen early on Saturday morning, during the dawn procession honoring the Santo Niño

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First Fi F iirs rst ooff the rs t he h e festivals feessstttii va va llss

A banner-bearing “Ati warrior� awaits the signal to commence the festivities. The Ati-atihan costumes are made at home by the revelers themselves, using materials ranging from cardboard to feathers, plastic ropes and capiz shells

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First of the festivals

The Sunday night torchlight parade through the streets of Kalibo is when the merrymaking is at its wildest, with fireworks, bands, costumed Ati and painted revelers all out in full force

a singular battle cry: “Hala bira, pwera pasma! Viva Santo Niño!” (rough translation: “Go get ’em, nobody gets tired! Long live the Santo Niño!”). The Ati-atihan tradition remains strong despite the passage of centuries, yet today’s Kalibonon celebrate with their own modern twist. These days, it’s a mardi gras of outlandish getups bearing everything from native abaka ropes and capiz shells to plastic sheets, mirrors and even neon tubes. While most Ati groups stick to the “tribal warrior” theme (shields, spears, flashy armor and all) others prefer a decidedly unconventional motif (think clowns, cross-dressers and just about everything in between). Perhaps they see the Holy Child as an excuse to party like kids and they really do, albeit in a manly sort of way.

Tribu Tiis Tiis is one of over 20 Ati-atihan “tribes” that compete annually for the best costume award

From sun up to sundown, festival dancers shake, bake and shuffle around town, guided by the pounding drumbeats From sun up to sundown, they shake, bake and shuffle around town, guided by the pounding drumbeats. They make their way to the old church and in seeming disrespect charge right in, tom-toms, liquor and noise included. It’s not as easy as you might think. Dancing tipsy all day in the tropical sun might be a lot of fun, but it does entail its own hardships. Moreover, they say that doing the pasadsad — that rhythmic shuffling walk that all 59

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Kalibonons know well — is a prayer in itself and that chugging alcohol while doing it helps keep your stamina up. “The liquor is also part of the tradition. It’s okay as long as they don’t drink too much of it,” says the town’s parish priest. The Ati-atihan’s detractors point to the heavy alcohol consumption as an unsavory aspect of the occasion but many regular festival-goers, from all corners of the country and abroad, see the boozing as an innocuous practice. The merriment is at its most colorful during the grand Ati-atihan contest, when “Ati tribes” from throughout Kalibo try to outdo one another in their classic warrior getups. It doesn’t take much effort to find them: just follow the TV crews and the photographers. The competition is fierce and the awards



Fii rs F First rst of of the t he h e festivals fes e ssti tiva ti i vva a ls ls

The image of the Santo Niño — in full costume, of course — joins one of thousands of revelers on the streets of Kalibo. From its humble beginnings as a local event, the Ati-atihan has grown to become one of the country’s most eagerly awaited festivals, its spirit sparking countless other “ati-ati” celebrations elsewhere in the Philippines

honor the groups with the best costumes. These tend to be made by hand over several painstaking weeks, using materials ranging from feathers to plastic string, glass fragments and even capiz shells. When Sunday rolls around, the festivities reach their heated climax. After a solemn mass to start the day, the revelers blast off into their wildest, loudest state. The main avenues are transformed into a sea of humanity, the crowded mass bristling with bobbing heads, waving arms and floating (no, make that dancing) Santo Niño statues. Everyone’s invited to join in and they all do, some even unwittingly.

While photographing the occasion some years back, I found myself shuffling involuntarily to the incessant drumbeats. An hour passed and my face became smeared with soot. Two hours after that I was chugging a bottle of beer and watching the (hopefully dry) parish priest shimmying along with his partying flock. The huge openair shindig lasted well into the night, leaving the Aklanons either blissfully inebriated or physically spent. An eerie calm ruled Kalibo the next morning. Streets that had been chaotic the day before were now silent, save for the sound of tricycles carrying blackened, drowsy residents back to their homes. 61

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No doubt the townspeople of Kalibo have learned to quickly shake off the hangover of the yearly festival weekend. By Tuesday each year, with all their costumes tidied up and tucked away, they’re inevitably back at work. Still, while tackling the onceagain-mundane matters of everyday existence, they no doubt smile and remember the crazy weekend that was. At this point, all they can do is wait patiently ’til next year.

Cebu Pacific flies to Kalibo from Manila, Cebu and Hong Kong. www.cebupacificair.com


Fantastic treks The Ulot River rapids

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Fantastic treks

SAMAR LOVING Nayna Katigbak travels to one of the hardest-hit stretches along the storm-battered eastern corridor of the country and finds signs of a bright future PHOTOS BY RENJIE TOLENTINO

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ying on the spine of the Philippines, on the country’s eastern side, the province of Samar faces the mighty Pacific Ocean. Like the two other main landmasses in the area — Leyte and Biliran — Samar is no stranger to typhoons. An average of 10 tropical storms barrel through this region in a typical year, but 2013’s Typhoon Haiyan, the biggest such storm on record, was especially brutal. It flattened nearly everything in its path, claimed thousands of lives and destroyed entire communities and livelihoods. A little over a year on, on a quick tour of Western Samar, I find that hope springs eternal throughout the province. Cottage industries are slowly regaining their footing, the charms of secluded beaches and weather-sculpted landscapes are beginning to create more buzz and the products of jealously guarded family recipes are once again inciting the intrepid to make the long trek to Catbalogan.

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Fantastic treks

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Our first stop is Basey, Western Samar, some 26km from Tacloban. The scenic ride takes us across the San Juanico Bridge, the longest in the country at 2.6km. The bridge was built in the 1960s, quickly proving a boon to the local economy, and though it sustained some damage from Typhoon Haiyan, it was quickly repaired. It continues to offer passage and a beautiful view of the San Juanico Strait, the body of water that separates Leyte from Samar. In the small, coastal town of Basey (pronounced “Basai” or “Basay”), we head straight to St Michael Church, a 160-year old structure that’s said to be among the best-preserved churches in the Samar provinces. Major parts were ravaged by the storm, including the roof and ceiling, but as with the San Juanico Bridge, these have likewise been repaired. We tour the church grounds and meet several local kids. Here’s something I now know for sure: no matter where you are in the Philippines, whip out a camera and kids will give you their best, toothiest and most soulsatisfying smiles. At the local tourism office, we find handicrafts on display, including

banigs by the paraglara (weavers). Ron Pecho, our liaison for this trip, tells us that women weavers congregate by the caves at the foot of the Basey mountains during the day and weave intricate, fragrant mats made out of tikog, a type of sedge grass that grows abundantly in the area. Ideally, these should be harvested, pounded flat, dried and hand-dyed in the same place during

Clockwise: rock formations in Marabut; mat weavers of Basey; the altar and ceiling of St Michael the Archangel Church in Basey; the church stands on a hill, a long-serving watchtower for the town

I purchased three woven mats, each with colorful, geometric patterns, and I continue to marvel at the quality of their handiwork and relish their sweet, grassy smell 65

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Fantastic treks

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fair weather, as the cave conditions keep the dried tikog pliable and their work enjoyable. Made up of women of various ages, the group is their version of a quilting circle. Susan Grabillo, a member of the paraglara cooperative, says the number of banig weavers has grown in response to the increasing demand for the product in recent years. Though their output is limited — in part because weaving is a timeconsuming, manual process and there’s often not enough capital for supplies — banig-weaving still makes for a good home business. A banig large enough for two people lying flat, which goes for around P450, takes four days to make. A family-size banig sells for a little more and takes about a week to produce. I purchased three of their creations, each with colorful, geometric patterns, and I continue to marvel at the quality of their handiwork and relish the sweet, grassy smell of their creations. Banig in tow, we leave Basey and make our way to the quieter and much smaller town of Marabut, where you can now procure hardwood from all the trees felled by Haiyan. Here we find a secluded, white-sand beach, crystalline waters and beautiful rock formations a few meters from the shore. There are no resorts in this particular area, only a few roughly constructed huts available for rent at P500 for the day or P1,500 for an overnight stay, with the option to use one of the small boats anchored by the shore. It’s the perfect spot for soaking up a bit of nature and just roughing it — city slickers in dire need of a digital detox and a major reboot can expect to find just the fix they need here. As we head back to the city at the end of the day, I reflect on the charming ruggedness of the place and the warmth of its people. There’s a definite air of pride about their home and its sights, and no hurry to have it discovered, just a genuine eagerness to welcome whomever finds their way there.

We hit the road at an early hour, in the midst of a light drizzle, headed for Barangay Inuntan in Basey. There we proceed to sign the register and meet local guides, who arrange a boat ride down Golden River, whose name was inspired by the wonderful sight it presents at sunset. Our destination is Sohoton Cave, where local tour guides walk us through the stunning interiors and offer information on the fascinating geographical formations. The tour costs about P2,000 per person. At the riverhead, we enjoy a peek into the daily routines of locals living in the rustic huts that dot the banks. From our boat, we see them heading out in their tiny boats or rafts, doing their laundry and filling pails of water

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From top: the entrance to Sohoton Caves; tapping stalactites to produce sound; local kids horsing around by the river; amazing rock formation inside Sohoton Caves


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for use in their carefully tended gardens. The village is clean and well maintained, and the people friendly if a bit shy. Farther along the river, these sights give way to stark limestone walls and lush foliage, leading to a tiny floating port that’s the gateway to the cave. Our guides are a local woman and her granddaughter, who, owing to the ongoing downpour, decide to err on the side of caution and take us on an abbreviated tour of the cliffs and caves instead. The elder of the two tells us that during the Philippine revolutions against the Spaniards and the Americans, rebels hid on the cliffs, throwing rocks and logs at their enemies as they came down the river. The Sohoton Caves contain large stalactites, stalagmites and other rock formations, some with peculiar characteristics. I rap my knuckles on some of them and they emit xylophone-like tinkling sounds. It’s all I can do to keep from rapping on all of them — the guides are very protective of these caves and forbid us from touching certain formations. All activities inside the cavernous structures are closely monitored to guard against vandalism and theft. As the light drizzle turns into a full-fledged torrent, we shed our protective helmets and hop back into the boats. It’s a hurried ride back to the barangay, where we rush into our waiting van to change into dry clothes and settle in for the ride to our final stop.

We arrive in Catbalogan, the province’s capital, after a 90-minute journey. A major hub and seaport, it’s considered the “Gateway to Samar”. Jonathan Montejo, our guide, immediately takes us to Café Rosario by Charito’s Delights, a popular bakery specializing in pili-nut confections and pastries. Here we’re presented with home-made delicacies by special request such as the local version of chorizo (a heavily spiced and garlicky affair) and large servings of delicious, melt-in-yourmouth humba (a braised pork dish, inspired by the Chinese dish hong ba). There are also tamalos (an adaptation of the tamale, which originated in Mexico), a hearty, savory delicacy of meat and boiled eggs wrapped in rice-flour dough and steamed in banana leaf. They’re served with pipian, a tasty, peanut-based sauce. And finally, freshly made batches of the local cheese in whey, called keseo. These are flat, tender cakes made from pure carabao milk — somewhat lighter than our regular kesong puti — with a deliciously salty, creamy taste. Just as we’re about to wrap up our epic meal, out comes an assortment of sweets in the form of latik, a delicate steamed rice dessert, hopia de pili and torta, a dense, flavorful cake so tasty you’ll happily overlook the fact that its main ingredients are lard and egg yolks. Lots of egg yolks. I find myself with no choice but to access the extra stomach space reserved only for dessert. Room for surprises is exactly what’s needed when you come to Samar. It might be off the tourist map for now, but it’s certainly registering clear and bright on our radar. 68

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From top: crispy and sweet Roscas cookies, a popular local snack; humba or braised pork; hot mocha served pretty at Café Rosario

Cebu Pacific flies to Tacloban from Manila and Cebu. From Tacloban, make your way by land to Samar. www.cebupacificair.com




directory LISTINGS AND PARTNER PROMOTIONS

FLYING HIGH Photo shared by reader Jen Alcasid

“This was taken last November in Sarangani. Despite the unfavorable weather forecast, my friends and I decided to go trekking at Safi Ranch, the paragliding flight site. We then stayed overnight in the nearby Tent City. When we woke up the next morning, the wind conditions turned out to be perfect so the pilots said we could fly. That’s me with the pilot. I was so happy!”

SNAP & WIN!

Send an amazing travel photo and your story together with your full name and contact details to smile.snapshot@ink-global.com for a chance to win a Chasing Wanderlust Philippine Scratch-Off Adventure Map.

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Directory

Pain pain go away

Slow down in Zambales

Filled with grains, aromatic herbs like ginger, lemongrass and cinnamon as well as essential oils, Precious Herbal Pillow is a hot and cold compress that relieves pain, increases blood circulation and speeds up your recovery. When heated, the herbal pillow provides instant relief for aching joints and muscles. When applied dry and cold, it numbs nerve endings, halting the transfer of impulses to the brain that register as pain. It also helps reduce swelling, increase circulation and alleviate discomfort. www.preciouspillow.com

Relax in one of Rama Beach Resort’s newly renovated rooms or beachfront cottages and savor delightful Filipino and Western cuisine at the upper-deck restaurant while admiring the ocean views from your table. And when you present your Cebu Pacific boarding pass upon check in, get 10% off Rama Beach Resort’s regular room rates. Offer runs until March 30, 2015, subject to room availability. Valid for bookings paid in cash (quote “CEBU PACIFIC” at time of booking). Tel: +63 (917) 523 7262; ramabeach@gmail.com; www.ramabeach.com

Home sweet Summit

Get some Serenitea

Be in the thick of all the Sinulog action this month by staying at Summit Circle Cebu. Located right in the heart of Cebu City, this newly refurbished property has all the creature comforts you desire… and then some. Enjoy awesome views of the passing parade from your hotel room or make a beeline for the festivities and join the party. www.summitcirclehotel.com

Since opening in 2008, Serenitea has revolutionized tea drinking across the country. It was one of the first tea shops in the Philippines to brew tea using an espresso machine. That tea-rrific idea has now spawned 38 stores nationwide, including new Serenitea branches at the Calyx Centre, I.T. Park, Cebu and at the Victoria Plaza Complex, Davao. www.iloveserenitea.com 73

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trip journal GUIDES TO CEBU PACIFIC DESTINATIONS

A snow monkey at Nagano's Jigokudani Monkey Park

INTERNATIONAL Check out what to do, what to see, what to eat and where to go in Cebu Pacific’s 28 international destinations

DOMESTIC PHOTO BY JENNY PEÑAS

Our local guides offer some handy ideas on how to enjoy each of Cebu Pacific’s 32 destinations within the Philippines

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international trip journal

Bandar Seri Begawan

Sydney

Siem Reap

Bondi Beach

Area code +61 (2) Touchdown Kingsford Smith International Airport Get to town via taxi, train

For a luxurious stay, try the Four Seasons Hotel, located near Circular Quay and The Rocks. Ride a ferry from Circular Quay to Watsons Bay and have lunch at Doyles on the Beach restaurant for the best seafood and fish and chips in town, complemented by panoramic views of Sydney Harbour.

Area code +673 Touchdown Brunei International Airport Get to town via taxi, bus, hotel shuttle

Check in at Traders Inn on Jalan Gadong, which is near the airport. At night, head to Taman Selera, where you’ll find hawker stalls that offer fresh seafood prepared to your specifications. Be sure to visit the Royal Regalia Building.

Area code +855 (63) Touchdown Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport Get to town via tuk-tuk, hotel shuttle, taxi

Stay at La Villa Coloniale, a romantic, French-colonial boutique hotel tucked away on a quiet road close to the temples. Hire a tuk-tuk and visit the smaller temples: Banteay Srei (aka the pink temple), Beng Mealea and Banteay Samré.

Ara Fatima C. Algar assistant professor

Monica B. Santiago educator / personality development program director

Maricris Espinosa web content producer

DID YOU KNOW?

AUSTRALIA WILL CELEBRATE ITS NATIONAL DAY ON JANUARY 26. IT MARKS THE ARRIVAL OF THE BRITISH FLEET AT PORT JACKSON, NEW SOUTH WALES IN 1788.

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international trip journal

Beijing

Guangzhou

Area code +86 (10) Touchdown Beijing Capital International Airport Get to town via taxi, train, hotel shuttle

Sample Peking duck in five separate dishes at Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant (Wangfujing St). Go to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. Ride the open cable car going up, then take the toboggan ride back down. Shop at the Silk Market in Xiushui Dongjie, Chaoyangmen District.

Area code +86 (20) Touchdown Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport Get to town via shuttle bus, taxi

Check out Chimelong Xiangjiang Safari Park, the biggest animal theme park in Asia, and then catch the Chimelong International Circus, a 90-minute show. Shop ’til you drop in the commercial area of Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street, which ends at Shifu Road.

Shanghai

Area code +86 (21) Touchdown Shanghai Pudong International Airport Transport from airport taxi, maglev, bus, hotel service

The best way to get to town from the airport is via Metro Line 2, stopping at Longyang Road Station and transferring to the Maglev Train; it’s convenient and a time saver. Visit Yongkang Lu for drinks at night and to experience the energy of Shanghai. Jocelyn Chan Kue

Melanie Prado-Tumampos

Jojie Alcantara

senior marketing manager

travel photojournalist

DID YOU KNOW?

founder and business director of NetBooster

MAGLEV IS AN ABBREVIATION FOR MAGNETIC LEVITATION, A MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION USING ELECTROMAGNETS.

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international trip journal

Xiamen

Hong Kong

Macau

Gulangyu Island

Area code +86 (592) Touchdown Xiamen Gaoqi International Airport Get to town via Airport shuttle bus, public bus, taxi

Head to Haicang District and cycle along coastal Haicang Avenue and Haicang Lake. The district has a public bike-sharing system. Biking is free for the first hour and is only CNY1 (PHP7) per hour after that. If you have time, visit Gulangyu Island, aka Piano Island.

Area code +852 Touchdown Hong Kong International Airport Get to town via bus, MTR, taxi

Hop on the double-decker city bus for a glimpse of Hong Kong ’s top sites. Buy an Octopus Card at the airport for ease of travel around the city and in parts of the mainland. Grab a quick bite at Eat Together, a restaurant chain with branches citywide. Shop to your heart ’s content in Mongkok.

Area code +853 Touchdown Macau International Airport Get to town via bus, taxi

Go on a sightseeing tour and experience the fusion of ChinesePortuguese culture. It’s easy to forget you’re in Asia when walking the city’s streets. Make a point of visiting St Dominic’s Square and the Ruins of St Paul’s. Clayton Wood

Liz Reyes

Francis Gonzaga

web developer / photographer

entrepreneur

DID YOU KNOW?

managing partner — TrueLogic Online Solutions, Inc.

MACAU BUSINESSMAN STANLEY HO WAS INSPIRED TO BUILD MACAU TOWER AFTER HE VISITED AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND’S SKY TOWER.

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international trip journal

Bali

Jakarta

Taman Ayun Temple

Area code +62 (36) Touchdown Ngurah Rai International Airport Get to town via taxi

Book a pool villa at Astana Kunti in Seminyak. Have brunch at Sea Circus or sample the local fare at Made’s Warung. Head out to Uluwatu to catch the sunset and the surfers. If you have more time, head to Ubud for a dose of art and culture. You can shop for pasalubong there, too.

Area code +62 (21) Touchdown Jakarta (SoekarnoHatta) International Airport Get to town via bus, shuttle car, taxi

Stay at The Hermitage (Jln Cilacap, Menteng), a luxurious hotel housed in a colonial building in Central Jakarta. Dine at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis in Menteng, a semi finedining restaurant that serves Indonesian cuisine. Get your caffeine fix at Giyanti Coffee Roastery.

Kim Pelayo Vira Zoelfikar

financial advisor

travel writer / co-owner of indohoy.com

DID YOU KNOW?

INDONESIA IS AMONG THE WORLD’S TOP FIVE LEADING PRODUCERS AND EXPORTERS OF COFFEE.

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international trip journal

Tokyo

Nagoya

Osaka Osaka Castle

Area code +81 (3) Touchdown Narita International Airport Get to town via Narita Express (N’EX train)

Area code +81 (52) Touchdown Chubu Centrair International Airport Get to town via train (Meitetsu Airport Line and μSKY), bus, taxi and rental car

Area code +81 (6) Touchdown Kansai International Airport Get to town via taxi, train, bus

Visit Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum and make your own cup noodles. For a history fix, visit the famous Meiji Shrine in Shibuya. It’s the capital’s largest Shinto shrine. And check out the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno.

Explore Nagoya by taking the Me-guru Tour. See the autumn leaves at Nagoya Higashiyama Zoo, the Botanical Gardens and Nagoya Castle. For good eats, try Nagoya-meshi for Nagoya Cochin chicken, misonikomi (noodles in miso broth) and curry udon.

Book a room at either Frasier Residence Nankai or Hotel Trusty Shinsaibashi. Try delicious Japanese dishes like okonomiyaki (savory pancake) at Fugetsu, ramen at Ippudo and sushi at Daiki Suisan Sushi-GoRound.

Christina Lauder B. Advincula

Ana Leah D. Young

Dennis Lim

student / senior writer

housewife

online video specialist

DID YOU KNOW?

THE NAVITIME JAPAN TRAVEL APP WILL HELP YOU NAVIGATE TOKYO’S EXTENSIVE RAILWAY NETWORK. IT’S AVAILABLE FOR IOS AND ANDROID PHONES.

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international trip journal

Seoul

Busan

Kuwait Kuwait Liberation Tower

Area code +82 (2) Touchdown Incheon International Airport Get to town via AREX (train), limousine bus, taxi

Area code +82 (51) Touchdown Gimhae Busan International Airport Get to town via train, taxi, bus

Area code +965 Touchdown Kuwait International Airport Get to town via taxi, bus

Stay at Nine Tree Hotel, which is located in the shopping district of Myeongdong. Take time to visit the city’s most famous landmarks: Gyeongbok Palace, Changdeok Palace, Changgyeong Palace, Deoksu Palace and Jongmyo, Korea’s oldest royal shrine. There are English-speaking tour guides at all of these places.

Visit Gamcheon Cultural Village, a colorful place also known as “Santorini of the East” and “Lego Village”. Go to Gwangbokdong Food Street and sample local dishes like bibim dangmyeon (cellophane noodles). Head to Jagalchi Fish Market, where you can dine on and purchase fresh seafood.

Stay at Holiday Inn Kuwait (kuwait-hi.com) on Al Blajat St, Salmiyah. Sample Arabic cuisine at Mais Alghanim on Arabian Gulf Street. Check out Entertainment City, Kuwait’s main amusement park, located in Doha on the Gulf. Go shopping at 360 Mall, The Avenues Mall and Al-Hamra Tower Mall.

Mai Ilagan

Fatima S. Idul employee

Andie Andros

entrepreneur

DID YOU KNOW?

planning engineer

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT KOREA IS IN THE SPRING, AT THE ONSET OF CHERRY-BLOSSOM SEASON, WHICH RUNS FROM LATE MARCH TO MID APRIL.

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international trip journal

Kuala Lumpur

Area code +60 (3) Touchdown Kuala Lumpur International Airport Get to town via train, bus, taxi

Head to Jalan Alor and sample local fare like nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk) or roti canai (flatbread) paired with teh tarik (pulled milk tea). Schedule visits to the Petronas Twin Towers, Batu Caves, Thean Hou Temple and Merdeka Square. Got more time? Take a trip to Putrajaya to see Putra Mosque. Jefrey Ann R. Sapilan-Mallari

Kota Kinabalu

Area code +60 (88) Touchdown Kota Kinabalu International Airport Get to town via bus, taxi

Singapore

Area code +65 Touchdown Singapore Changi International Airport Get to town via MRT, bus, taxi

Aside from climbing Mount Kinabalu, a visit to the Mari Mari Cultural Village (marimariculturalvillage. com) is worth your while. You can also go to Lok Kawi Wildlife Park (www. lokkawiwildlifepark.com), or go on an island-hopping tour at Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park.

Try sumptuous seafood dishes like crab claypot bee hoon at Mellben Seafood. Enjoy a night out at the bars of Emerald Hill on Orchard Road. It’s a strip of heritage buildings converted into bars. Grab a beer and dance to live music or wind down with a glass of wine.

Lualhati Perez

Jun De Guzman

tourism consultant

businessman

entrepreneur

DID YOU KNOW?

YOU CAN TOUR KUALA LUMPUR FOR FREE BY RIDING THE GO KL CITY BUS. WWW.GOKL.COM.MY

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international trip journal

Dammam

Riyadh

Area code +966 (11) Touchdown King Khaled International Airport Get to town via taxi, bus, rental car

Get comfortable at Radisson Blu Riyadh. Its restaurant, Brasserie on Four, serves a breakfast buffet where guests can savor global fusion and Pan-Arabian fare. Najd Village Restaurant also serves traditional Saudi Arabian cuisine. Visit Ad’Diriyah and go on a desert safari at the Red Sand Dunes.

Area code +966 (13) Touchdown Dammam King Fahd International Airport Get to town via taxi, bus (if you’re on a tour package)

Dammam is halloudie (halal foodie) heaven! There are plenty of dining options but your best bet is to go where the locals eat. Visit Tarut Castle, an island east of Qatif. Check out King Abdullah Bin Abdul Aziz Recreation Park and King Fahad Park. Boris Buenavista business systems analyst

Irene Benitez nurse

DID YOU KNOW?

TWO OF ISLAM'S HOLIEST SHRINES, MECCA AND MEDINA, ARE BOTH LOCATED IN SAUDI ARABIA.

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B.E. Creative Collections

international trip journal

Bangkok

Phuket Statues at Wat Arun

Area code +66 (2) Touchdown Suvarnabhumi International Airport Get to town via taxi, train

Area code +66 (76) Touchdown Phuket International Airport Get to town via taxi, tuk-tuk, van, bus

Savor delicious pad thai and try the ubiquitous mango sticky rice, which you can buy from street vendors or at Chatuchak Market. If you have more time, experience an elephant ride in Ayutthaya or go for a dinner cruise along the Chao Phraya River.

Hire a tour guide for the day and explore the island. Check out Promthep Cape, the Big Buddha, Wat Chalong and the colonial buildings in the old city center. Alternatively, go on an island-hopping tour or just head to the beach and relax.

Amy O. Palisoc

Jerome Velasquez

VP for corporate planning

group head — field operations

DID YOU KNOW?

Blizzy Esguerra designer g owner

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Experience Modern Living at its Finest. 3-Car Garage, a Senior Suite, huge picture windows and excellent cabinetry work. The rest you’d better come and see for yourselves.

VISIT OUR MODEL UNIT

2 Mahiyain St. cor. Mahinhin St., Teacher’s Village, Quezon City For more info please call: (02) 434-2411 | (02) 263-6732 Mobile nos.: (63) 917-323-5808 | (63) 923-627-4526 email: infomarketing.mdi@gmail.com | website: moderndwellings.com.ph


international trip journal

Taipei

Dubai

Area code +886 (2) Touchdown Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport Get to town via bus, taxi, Taiwan High Speed Railway (THSR)

Go to Danshui and try the wide range of street food, from grilled squid to a 2ft high icecream cone. Enjoy a 360˚ view of the city from Taipei 101. If time permits, go to Yangmingshan National Park, about an hour from the city, to see the beautiful gardens.

Area code +971 Touchdown Dubai International Airport Get to town via taxi, metro, bus

Check out the Dubai Mall Fountain and Light Show, which happens every night at intervals; a great photo opportunity awaits. For gastronomic discoveries, head to Madinat Souk and Souk Al Bahar. Jude R. Gabriel marketing executive

Noel L. Aguado landscape designer

DID YOU KNOW?

SKI DUBAI AT THE EMIRATES MALL IS THE THIRD LARGEST INDOOR SKI SLOPE IN THE WORLD AT 400M. IT BOASTS 6,000 TONS OF SNOW.

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international trip journal

Hanoi

Ho Chi Minh City

Welcome to Sur! Peaceful and personal, Sur lets you experience the gentle side of bustling Boracay. Airy open spaces. Thoughtfully furnished rooms. Friendly service. And a premium location on the finest stretch of white beach.

For booking and reservation, kindly contact: Landline: +63 36 288 68 44 Fax: + 63 36 288 6843 Mobile : (Smart) + 63 918 962 6122 (Sun) + 63 922 897 0037 (Globe) + 63 917 328 4725 Email: surboracay@gmail.com Website: www.surboracay.com

Area code +84 (4) Touchdown Noi Bai International Airport Get to town via airport taxi, hotel service

Area code +84 (8) Touchdown Tan Son Nhat International Airport Get to town via taxi

There are plenty of accommodation options in the Old Quarter. Check in at Hanoi Central Backpackers (16 Ly Quoc Su St), which is a good place to meet other travelers. In the early evening, hit the streets and join the locals as they enjoy nuoc (drinks).

Stay at the Signature Hotel (Nguyen Thai Binh St), which is just a few blocks from Ben Thanh Market and a block from “antique street.” Try Vietnamese dishes at Cục Gạch Quán, which serves coconut juice with kangkong stalks as straws!

Joseph Ian Macalino

Mylene Dolonius

backpacker / blogger

CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

THE FLAG OF VIETNAM WAS FIRST USED IN A REVOLT AGAINST THE FRENCH IN 1945. THE RED REPRESENTS REVOLUTION AND THE STAR STANDS FOR THE FIVE MAIN CLASSES IN VIETNAMESE SOCIETY.

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YOUR HOME

philippines trip journal

BY THE UNDERGROUND Cauayan RIVER.

Laoag Paoay Church

DALUYON BEACH AND MOUNTAIN RESORT SABANG BEACH, BRGY. CABAYUGAN, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN

SALES & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Door D RamadaGoodwill Bldg. Rizal Avenue Ext., Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines T: +63.48.433.6379 F: +63.48.434.1174 M:+63.917.826.9989

Area code 78 Touchdown Cauayan Airport Get to town via tricycle, bus, jeepney

Area code 77 Touchdown Laoag International Airport Get to town via Sirib bus, tricycle, jeepney, pre-arranged rental van, hotel shuttle

Take a side trip to Ilagan Sanctuary, where you can ride a thrilling zipline. Other attractions include a mini zoo, botanical garden and butterfly sanctuary. Back in Cauayan City, make sure to sample the crispy lechon at Ramos Lechon and the pork bicol express at Kusina Kawayan.

Enjoy Ilocano dishes like crispy bagnet and empanada (a meat pie filled with local sausage and egg). Take a tour of Ilocos Norte and kick back on Pagudpud’s beaches, trek to Kabigan Falls or ride a 4x4 at the La Paz Sand Dunes. Got more time? Head to Vigan and stroll along Calle Crisologo.

Camille Antoinette B. Ramos

Rommel L. Valenzuela history teacher / tour coordinator

student

www.daluyonbeachandmountainresort.com inquire@daluyonresort.com

DID YOU KNOW?

PAOAY CHURCH FEATURES EARTHQUAKE BAROQUESTYLE ARCHITECTURE.

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CAUAYAN IMAGE: EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP; LAOAG IMAGE: LESTER LEDESMA

HAPPY NEW YEAR!


philippines trip journal

Manila

Clark

MANILA & CLARK IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA; TUGUEGARAO IMAGE: RAP RIOS

Area code 2 Touchdown Ninoy Aquino International Airport Get to town via taxi

Stroll through Rizal Park then head to the nearby National Museum. To get a good grasp of Filipino culture, book a three-hour walking tour of Intramuros with Carlos Celdran. Eat at 100 Revolving Restaurant, whose owner is local culinary icon Jessie Sincioco.

Tuguegarao

Area code 45 Touchdown Clark International (Diosdado Macapagal) Airport Get to town via bus, airport shuttle, jeepney

Go wakeboarding in Deca Wake Park Clark or enjoy a day at Alviera Sandbox in Porac, where you can brave the roller coaster zipline or try wall climbing. While in Porac, you should also go hiking at Miyamit Falls. Back in Clark, dine at Koko Buri and sample its yummy chunky clam soup.

Visit the newly renovated St Peter’s Metropolitan Cathedral in the heart of the city. Check out Callao Caves in Peñablaca and the Basilica Minore of Our Lady of Piat. Hang out at Barako Boy Coffee Shop. Try the garlic longganisa and carabeef. Kiwee Reyes businesswoman

Nica Gopez Maan Pamaran

Area code 78 Touchdown Tuguegarao Airport Get to town via tricycle

web developer

journalist

DID YOU KNOW?

THE ORIGINAL STRUCTURE OF ST PETER'S METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL IN TUGUEGARAO WAS COMPLETED IN 1768.

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philippines trip journal

Naga

NAGA IMAGE: RAYMOND CALACDAY; VIRAC IMAGE: ERICK LIRIOS; LEGAZPI IMAGE: LESTER LEDESMA

Area code 54 Touchdown Naga Airport Get to town via taxi, hotel shuttle, van, jeepney, tricycle

Hop from one resto to another along Magsaysay Avenue. Try Filipino favorites like crispy pata and kare-kare at Bob Marlin or western eats like baby back ribs at Bigg’s Diner. Visit historical landmarks and cultural attractions such as the Plaza Quince Martires and San Francisco Church.

Virac

Legazpi

Area code 52 Touchdown Virac Airport Get to town via tricycle, hotel shuttle, UV Express, rental car/van

Go fishing at Kuripdas Lagoon & Beach Resort, trekking at Hicming Falls or surfing in Puraran, Baras. Satisfy your hunger at Café de Au with its binalot meals and freshly brewed coffee or try the seafood dishes at Seabreeze Restaurant. Both are on Salvación Street. Ada R. Arcilla

Area code 52 Touchdown Legazpi Airport Get to town via taxi, tricycle, jeepney

For authentic Bicolano cuisine, SibidSibid Food Park is the place to go. It’s a small, fisherman-inspired eatery that serves buko sinigang, lato (seaweed), seafood kare-kare and more. Get a good view of the Mayon Volcano at Mayon Skyline View Deck, also known as Mayon Rest House.

government employee

Mariefe Maralit

Sonnie A. Ramos

corporate foundation executive director / tourism officer

CPA / professor

EXPERIENCE A LIFE UNCOMMON Century

The Residences at Commonwealth by

www.commonwealthbycentury.com

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philippines trip journal

Area code 48 Touchdown Puerto Princesa International Airport Get to town via tricycle, multicab, van

Try the fireflywatching tour at the Iwahig River or swim with the whale sharks (seasonal: April to July only) at Honda Bay. For a five-star experience, stay at Princesa Garden Island Resort and Spa. Book a water villa; the rates are lower than the average rates for water villas in Palawan.

Busuanga

San Jose

Area code 48 Touchdown Francisco B. Reyes (Busuanga) Airport Get to town via van, hotel shuttle

Visit famed Kayangan Lake to go for a dip. Got more time? Visit Calauit Safari Park, where you can feed the giraffes, take photos with the Calamian deer and scope out the zebras among other things. For customized souvenir shirts, check out Hilltop Printshoppe on the National Highway.

White House Safari Lodge is a five-minute tricycle ride from the airport and is right on the beach. Aroma Café serves the best breakfasts in the area; order the boneless bangus or another rice-andfried-egg meal. Got more time? Head to Apo Reef. Mark Chino Pantua

Michelle Tiotangco Kimpearl Licup

Area code 43 Touchdown San Jose Airport Get to town via tricycle

entrepreneur / hotelier

sales and marketing manager / businesswoman

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social media consultant

PUERTO PRINCESA IMAGE: LESTER LEDESMA; SAN JOSE IMAGE: SAMUEL DE LEON

Puerto Princesa



philippines trip journal

Bacolod

Area code 33 Touchdown Iloilo International Airport Get to town via taxi, van

Go Hotels has clean rooms. Rates are affordable and the location is superb: it’s right beside Robinson’s Iloilo. Try a genuine local specialty at Ted’s Oldtimer La Paz Batchoy, branches of which are found in most malls and at La Paz Market. Beyond that, Deco’s serves good batchoy and puto.

Area code 34 Touchdown Bacolod-Silay Airport Get to town via shuttle van, taxi

Check in at Avenue Suites, a boutique hotel on Lacson Street. Don’t leave the city without eating at Bob’s Restaurant, Bacolod’s pride for delicious Filipino cuisine. No visit would be complete without posing for a photo with the ruins as the backdrop. For sweet-tooth cravings, drop by Calea. Romel M. Torre banker / travel blogger

Genee Guy manager, Galilei Ristorante Italiano

DID YOU KNOW?

ILOILO WAS ONCE CALLED IRONG-IRONG IN HONOR OF THE BORNEAN DATU PAIBURONG, ITS RULER.

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ILOILO AND BACOLOD IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA

Iloilo



philippines trip journal

Kalibo

Roxas

Area code 36 Touchdown Godofredo P. Ramos (Caticlan) Airport Get to town via tricycle to Caticlan Jetty Port then boat to Boracay Island

Area code 36 Touchdown Kalibo International Airport Get to town via tricycle, shuttle/van, bus, jeepney

Aside from chilling out, try driving an ATV to Mt Luho, cliff diving at Ariel’s Point and parasailing. Join the Boracay PubCrawl to party and meet new friends. Want a snack? Try the calamansi muffin at Real Coffee & Tea Café. For affordable meals, head to D’Mall market.

Sample local fare at Saylo Cuisine, RML Manokan Haus Kamayan or Niño’s Ihaw-Ihaw. Visit Bakhawan Eco-Park, where you can give the mangrove woodworm delicacy known as tamilok a try. Staying longer? Take a side trip to Hurom-Hurom Cold Spring.

Area code 36 Touchdown Roxas City Airport Get to town via tricycle, taxi

Kapis Mansions Hotel (www. kapismansions. com) on Banica Road has elegantly designed rooms. Take a stroll along the beach, which is just five to 10 minutes from the city proper. Explore the restaurants on the boulevard, where you can enjoy all manner of seafood.

Alix Reyes Aileen Vedad

Al Patrick E. Deocampo

business consultant

nurse / sales coordinator

entrepreneur / lifestyle and travel blogger

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CATICLAN, KALIBO & ROXAS IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA

Caticlan



philippines trip journal

Tacloban

Area code 32 Touchdown Mactan-Cebu International Airport Get to town via taxi, multi-cab, van

Stay at either Abaca Boutique Resort or ShangriLa Mactan Resort & Spa. Rent a boat for island-hopping and ask the boatmen to take you to Olango Island for lunch. Make sure to get all your beach essentials at Cabana in Banilad Town Center. In the city, go to Maya for dinner and late-night mojitos. Try the fish tacos and lechon kawali.

Area code 78 Touchdown Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport Get to town via taxi, tricycle, jeepney

Savor freshly grilled goodness at Ocho Seafood Grill or get a taste of local fare at Sanzibar. Walk along San Juanico Bridge and visit Sto. Niño Shrine. Got more time? Check out other beaches in Leyte such as Tanauan, Baybay and Kuting Reef. Irene Chiu lawyer

KD Syiaco-Tiu entrepreneur

DID YOU KNOW?

THE ISLAND OF CEBU STRETCHES 225KM FROM NORTH TO SOUTH.

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CEBU & TACLOBAN IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA

Cebu


philippines trip journal

Dumaguete

DUMAGUETE IMAGE: HERSLEY VEN CASERO; TAGBILARAN IMAGE: LESTER LEDESMA

Area code 35 Touchdown Dumaguete (Sibulan) Airport Get to town via van, tricycle, taxi

Be sure to dine at Lab-as Restaurant, which serves top-drawer seafood and delicious Dumaguete express. Don’t miss snorkeling with the sea turtles off Apo Island. The island, which is a short ferry ride from the city, is home to a stellar marine sanctuary.

Tagbilaran

Area code 38 Touchdown Tagbilaran Airport Get to town via tricycle, van, hotel shuttle

Eat at Bohol Bee Farm Resort and Restaurant and treat yourself to healthy and organic food. Enjoy a lunch or dinner cruise on the Loboc River, a tour of the Chocolate Hills and a visit to the Tarsier Conservation Area. Bring home some Peanut Kisses and kalamay (a sticky rice treat). Rochelle Tan

Arnie Misajon

corporate pilot

COO, DevKinetics Inc.

DID YOU KNOW?

TOUCHING AND LOUD NOISE CAN TRAUMATIZE A TARSIER AND MAY CAUSE THEM TO COMMIT SUICIDE.

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philippines trip journal

Ozamiz

Pagadian

OZAMIZ & ZAMBOANGA IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA; PAGADIAN IMAGE: EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP

Area code 88 Touchdown Ozamiz Airport (Labo Airport) Get to town via motorcycle

Zamboanga

Area code 62 Touchdown Pagadian Domestic Airport Get to town via tricycle

Either check in at the highend Executive Hotel on Gallardo Street or the Palace Hotel on Rizal Avenue for budgetfriendly accommodations. Visit Cotta Shrine near the pier and say a prayer as you light a candle for your intentions.

Relax at Alindahaw Lakeview Resort. Take a boat ride to Dao Dao Island, which is within easy reach of the city, where you can go for a quick swim or have a picnic by the beach. Satisfy your hunger at Big J’s Grill on Rizal Avenue.

Edna C. Calope

Ma. Roma L. Foo

travel agency sales manager

mompreneur

Area code 62 Touchdown Zamboanga International Airport Get to town via jeepney, taxi, motorcycle

Dine at Alavar’s Seafood Restaurant and try a local favorite, curacha in alavar sauce. During the day, check out Fort Pilar, an open-air shrine. Got more time? Go island-hopping and scuba diving at Great Sta. Cruz Island, which is famous for its pink sand beach. Dan Lloyd N. Obice social media analyst

DID YOU KNOW?

CURACHA IS A TYPE OF SEA CRAB. THEY’RE ALSO KNOWN AS SPANNER OR RED FROG CRABS AND ARE FOUND IN THE WATERS OF SULU.

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philippines trip journal

Davao

Dipolog

DAVAO & TANDAG IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA; DIPOLOG IMAGE: SAMUEL DE LEON

Area code 82 Touchdown Francisco Bangoy (Davao) International Airport Get to town via taxi, bus, van, jeepney

Sample local fare at Lachi’s Sans Rival atbp on Ruby Street, Marfori Heights. Check out the night market on Roxas Avenue, where you can sample street foods and shop for ukay-ukay (second-hand) items. Take a side trip to Samal Island and spend a day at the beach. Stay overnight at Chemas by the Sea.

Tandag

Area code 65 Touchdown Dipolog Airport Get to town via tricycle, hotel van

Eat at Chlisy Resto-Café or head to Chapters Book Café, where you can read, drink milk tea or just hang out. Shop at Dipolog Pasalubong Center and take home a couple of bottles of the famous Montaño Sardines. Cokee Pino registered nurse

Area code 86 Touchdown Tandag City Airport Get to town via tricycle

Stay at Shacene Pension House and Restaurant, where room rates start at 550 per night. Hit Tandag Boulevard to sample freshly grilled seafood. Head to Cagwait White Beach, which is less than 30 minutes from the city, or to the Britania Group of Islands in San Agustin. Glen Santillan

Jayvic Lacaya

freelance HR consultant / travel blogger

law student / businessman

DID YOU KNOW?

DAVAO HAS AN ORDINANCE UNDER WHICH SMOKING IS PROHIBITED IN PUBLIC UTILITY VEHICLES, GOVERNMENT OFFICES AND SELECTED ESTABLISHMENTS.

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philippines trip journal

General Santos

COTABATO IMAGE: SAMUEL DE LEON; GENERAL SANTOS IMAGE: LESTER LEDESMA; TAWI-TAWI IMAGE: EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP

Cotabato

Tawi-Tawi

Area code 64 Touchdown Awang (Cotabato) Airport Get to town via jeepney, multicab, tricycle

Area code 83 Touchdown General Santos International Airport Get to town via taxi, multicab, hotel shuttle

Area code 68 Touchdown Sanga-Sanga Airport Get to town via tricycle

Visit the Grand Mosque in Kalanganan, the nation’s newest and biggest mosque, which was donated by Sultan Bolkiah of Brunei. Enjoy the cool air at Padang-Padang Adventure Park in Parang, Maguindanao, just about 30 minutes from the city. Be sure to try the zipline.

Explore Kalaja Cave and take a dip in its natural pool. Visit Bunga Spring at Kalaha Karsts Land or head to Malakong Gorge, which is perfect for boulder and rock climbing. When hunger strikes, head to Antipolo Barbecue Station (Aparente St, City Heights) for some pork or chicken barbecue.

Rent a motorbike and drive along the coast to soak up the scenery. Feast your eyes on Bongao Peak from the Sanga-Sanga Bridge. If you’re into diving, explore the Japanese kamikaze plane wreck.

Alia Raida Arumpac

Ian Ray Garcia

planning officer, RPDO-ARMM

travel writer

DID YOU KNOW?

Suyen Halipa student / backpacker

EACH DAY, AN ESTIMATED 300 METRIC TONS OF FISH IS UNLOADED AT THE GENERAL SANTOS FISH PORT COMPLEX.

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philippines trip journal

Cagayan de Oro

Area code 88 Touchdown Camiguin Airport Get to town via multicab, motorcycle, habal-habal

Paras Beach Resort has a pool that’s the perfect place to soak in a breathtaking Camiguin sunset. From there, the famous White Island is just a five-minute boat ride away. Be sure to sample fresh sea urchins; they’re just 2030 each! Aileen Aleta-Caasi event organizer / wedding planner

Area code 88 Touchdown Laguindingan International Airport Get to town via taxi, jeepney, motorela, shuttle

Don’t leave CDO without experiencing white-water rafting. Contact Bugsay River Rafting at tel: +63 88 850 1580 or 917 328 4729 for an unforgettable adventure. Shopping for pasalubong? Vjandep has delicious pastel that you can take home. Alain Caasi wedding videographer

DID YOU KNOW?

AT 240KM2, CAMIGUIN IS THE SECOND SMALLEST ISLAND IN THE PHILIPPINES.

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CAMIGUIN & CAGAYAN DE ORO IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA

Camiguin



philippines trip journal

Siargao

Area code 85 Touchdown Bancasi Airport Get to town via van, tricycle

Surigao

Area code 86 Touchdown Sayak Airport Get to town via habal-habal, hotel shuttle

Y Hotel, which is located on the city’s main boulevard, is a new property with a youthful vibe. The average rate is 1,000 per night for a single. Breakfast is included. Got more time? Head to the Agusan Marsh, which is less than two hours from Butuan.

Feel right at home at Jing’s Place Homestay ( jingsplace.com), where the rooms are affordable and the rates negotiable depending on the length of your stay. Don’t miss surfing at Cloud 9. A surfing lesson costs 500 per hour, which includes surfboard rental and instructor’s fee.

Andrea Alfelor Macaventa

Marco Paulo Diala

communications officer

web developer

DID YOU KNOW?

Area code 86 Touchdown Surigao Airport Get to town via multicab, tricycle

Choose a seaview room at Hotel Tavern Surigao (hoteltavern.com). Check out the unique Mabua Pebble Beach, just 30 minutes from the city center, whose shoreline is littered with pebbles and stones of all shapes and sizes. Jana Vicente government employee

THE MUNICIPALITY OF GENERAL LUNA IN SIARGAO WAS NAMED AFTER GENERAL ANTONIO LUNA.

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BUTUAN IMAGE: SAMUEL DE LEON; SURIGAO AND TANDAG IMAGES: LESTER LEDESMA

Butuan




airline news UPDATES FROM CEBU PACIFIC AIR

HONG KONG TO BORACAY ON THE CHEAP Hong Kong tourists looking forward to spending the Lunar New Year in Boracay can take advantage of Cebu Pacific’s thriceweekly direct services to Kalibo, the international gateway to Boracay. “We’re happy to offer Hong Kong tourists Cebu Pacific’s trademark lowest fares and convenient access to the island of Boracay, just in time for the Chinese New Year. The island is perfect for those looking for a fun and relaxing

land and ferry transfers and the cost includes government fees. Guests can book through the CEB website or via the airline’s reservation hotlines for as little as PHP450 (HK$78). To enjoy 1.5GB worth of mobile broadband data when in the Philippines, guests can also buy the CEB Fun Data SIM onboard international inbound flights. Aside from the mobile data allocation, which is valid for 15 days, the SIM also includes

getaway. We encourage guests to book their flights in advance to get the best travel deals,” says CEB VP for Marketing and Distribution Candice Iyog. Guests can also enjoy two new CEB travel products when planning that trip to Boracay — CEB Transfers and the CEB Fun Data SIM. CEB Transfers facilitates seamless transfers for guests from Kalibo airport to their resort or hotel in Boracay. It encompasses

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100 text messages and 10 minutes of voice calls to all Philippine mobile networks, as well as discounted rates on international calls. The LTE-capable SIM can be used with a variety of gadgets since it’s pre-cut for devices using regular, mini-, or nano-SIM slots. The SIM is available for PHP500 (HK$88).

Turn the page for more news from Cebu Pacific >


airline news

KidZania Manila to open this year KidZania, the global leader in children’s educational entertainment, is set to open at Bonifacio Global City early this year. CEB is KidZania’s official airline partner. “Cebu Pacific has always been a staunch advocate

Eugenio Lopez III, chairman, ABS-CBN and Play Innovations; Maricel Pangilinan-Arenas, Play Innovations president-CEO and KidZania Philippines state governor; Lance Gokongwei, president and CEO, Cebu Pacific Air; Patricia Go, vice president, Corporate Communications, JG Summit; and Candice Iyog, vice president, Marketing and Distribution, Cebu Pacific, at the KidZania launch

discoveries and boundless opportunities,” says Cebu Pacific president and CEO Lance Gokongwei. KidZania Manila is operated by its exclusive local franchise owner, Play Innovations, Inc. It aims to combine inspiration, fun

of education through travel. Launching our new destination, KidZania Manila, affirms this commitment. A flight is the best way to welcome kids to this exciting, interactive city. Similar to real life, flights can lead to life-changing

and learning through role-play for children, empowering them to explore myriad roles so they can discover their talents and help create a better world. Visit www.cebupacificair.com or manila.kidzania.com for more information and updates.

CEB’S 100 MILLIONTH PASSENGER MILESTONE Cebu Pacific Air is set to welcome its 100 millionth passenger after 18 years of operations. The airline launched its first domestic flights to Cebu and Davao on March 8, 1996 after the Philippine government deregulated air travel and opened up opportunities for other airlines. It pioneered low fares in this country and

have been a part of their journeys. We look forward to serving the next 100 million as we reach more destinations and enable more to fly,” says CEB President and CEO Lance Gokongwei. Since its founding, CEB has grown its network to about 90 domestic and international routes, providing convenient

introduced many firsts in the Philippine aviation industry, such as one-peso seat sales, e-tickets, web check-in and other travel products and services. “This will be a significant milestone for the CEB team and it’s all thanks to the millions of passengers who’ve chosen to fly with CEB through the years. We’re fortunate to

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flight connections and introducing affordable air travel to more people. Last year, it was named by Centre for Aviation (CAPA), a leading aviation think tank, as the LowCost Carrier of the Year in the Asia-Pacific region. Find out more about CEB’s 100 millionth passenger in the next issue of Smile!


CEB now accepts PayPal payments Flying to the Philippines is not only more affordable than ever, but also more convenient now that tickets for Cebu Pacific Air can be purchased through PayPal, a global leader in online payments. With PayPal, millions of travelers around the world will be able to pay for CEB air tickets to and from the Philippines in just a few clicks. The Centre for Aviation’s (CAPA) Low-Cost Carrier of the Year, CEB is the first carrier in the Philippines to offer PayPal as a payment option. PayPal has over 157 million PayPal customers in 203 markets around the world. This partnership will help improve the customer experience for international

addition of this seamless payment platform to our list of payment center options complements our efforts to boost inbound tourism from key markets such as the US and Europe. Now, it’s just that much easier to book and fly to fun Philippines,” says CEB VP for Marketing and Distribution Candice Iyog. After selecting their flights at www.cebupacificair.com, passengers can choose PayPal on the payment page. To make payment, they simply have to log in to their PayPal account and confirm payment, without having to enter their credit card or financial information. Their CEB e-ticket itinerary will be finalized after a successful payment process.

travelers, making it more convenient and secure for them to purchase CEB tickets online. “From planning a trip to booking flights, travelers are doing more online than ever before. Together with CEB, PayPal wants to make it even easier and quicker for travelers to pay for their flights online. We’re delighted to be working with Cebu Pacific Air to provide a seamless online booking experience for their customers and help expand their international sales,” says Rahul Shinghal, Country Manager for PayPal Southeast Asia. “CEB’s partnership with PayPal expedites CEB’s flight booking process for more global travelers. The

LOVE IN THE LITTLE RED DOT

Treat your special someone to a trip to Singapore this Valentine's Day Start off with a shopping spree on Orchard Road and at Marina Bay. There’s a wide range of fashion merchandise from international brands and home-grown designers so you’re sure to find the perfect gift for your sweetheart.

Cap off the evening at one of Singapore’s many rooftop bars, where you can enjoy specially crafted cocktails while admiring the Instagram-worthy Singapore skyline together. For more Singapore trip ideas for two, visit www yoursingapore.com/ph

Enjoy a relaxing spa treatment before you head out for a romantic dinner date. Savour gourmet dishes and fine wines at Michelin-starred restaurants or sample modern Singapore fusion dishes created by Singapore’s top culinary talents. 121

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GOOD STUFF ONBOARD Shopping onboard Cebu Pacific flights just got more exciting thanks to the availability of a wider range of travel essentials and gift items. Among the new products on offer are luggage covers from Wanderskye. These polyester and spandex covers not only protect your bags from dirt, they also help you identify them on the belt thanks to eye-catching designs by Filipino artists. You can purchase the small cover, which fits 19- to 22-inch, two- or four-wheel bags, onboard for PHP1,200. If you’re looking for a gift for the travel junkie in your life, check out the Chasing Wanderlust Philippine Scratch Map. It can serve as a travel diary, an activity map and a vision board, all at the same time. You can get it onboard for only PHP995. Flip to page 223 for the complete range of products you can buy onboard or ask your friendly cabin crew.


Where to next

Asia Beijing KUWAIT

Middle East

Incheon

KOREA

JAPAN Narita

Busan

Osaka Nagoya

Dammam Dubai Riyadh Shanghai SAUDI ARABIA

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES OMAN

CHINA

Taipei

Xiamen

VIETNAM

Guangzhou Macau

TAIWAN

Hong Kong

Hanoi

CLARK

THAILAND

MANILA

CAMBODIA

THE PHILIPPINES

Siem Reap

Bangkok

KALIBO Ho Chi Minh City

CEBU ILOILO

VIETNAM Phuket Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur

SINGAPORE Singapore

INDONESIA Jakarta

MAP LEGEND

Denpasar

Cebu Pacific hub City with Airport Cebu Pacific Flight Cebu Pacific New Flight Operated by both Cebu Pacific and Tiger Philippines (DG)

Sydney

Australia 122

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Laoag

Tuguegarao

Cauayan

The Philippines CLARK MANILA

Naga

Virac

Legazpi

San Jose Busuanga

Caticlan KALIBO Roxas Tacloban

ILOILO

Bacolod CEBU

Tagbilaran

Surigao

Puerto Princesa

Siargao

Camiguin

Dumaguete

Tandag Butuan

Cagayan de Oro

Dipolog Ozamiz Pagadian

Cotabato

DAVAO

Zamboanga

General Santos

Tawi-Tawi

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Onboard treats

Hot meals Available only on international ights

ON SHORT-HAUL FLIGHTS PHP350 each

Chicken Inasal

Beef Teriyaki

Baked Mac

Grilled slices of chicken marinated in a special mixture of calamansi, pepper, vinegar and annatto. Best paired with pickled green papaya (achara) and soy sauce.

Beef strips grilled in a glaze of soy sauce, sake and sugar. Topped with toasted sesame seeds.

Penne pasta cooked al dente, tossed with a special sauce made up of tomatoes, ground beef and chicken ham. Topped with melted cheese. Paired with parmesan breadsticks.

ON LONG-HAUL FLIGHTS PHP500 each with dessert

Korean Sweet & Spicy Chicken

Beef Pastel

Pasta Marinara

Breaded chicken coated with a special blend of sweet and spicy sauce.

Beef cubes with mushrooms, potatoes and carrots, cooked in a rich, creamy sauce.

Penne pasta tossed in avorful marinara sauce. Topped with parmesan cheese. Paired with parmesan breadsticks.

FILIPINO classics Beef Caldereta

Bistek Tagalog

Filipino-style beef stew in a rich tomato sauce, with carrots and potatoes.

Beef strips cooked in a medley of soy sauce, calamansi and onions.

Chicken Adobo

Chicken Barbecue

A Filipino staple simmered in a balanced mix of soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and peppercorns.

Chicken chunks cooked in a savory barbecue sauce.

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SAVORY snacks Grilled Chicken and Vegetable Sandwich PHP180

Eat fresh!

Fresh sandwich made with sliced grilled chicken, bell peppers and tomatoes in a tangy pesto sauce.

Ham & Cheese Croissant PHP100 Our light, flaky croissant with slices of ham and cheese is sure to satisfy your cravings!

Tuna Roll PHP80 Creamy tuna enveloped in soft bread and topped with chopped parsley.

Chicken Asado Pan de Ulam PHP80 A Filipino favorite, this soft bun is filled with chicken asado cooked Kapampangan style.

Pizza Supreme Roll PHP80 Soft bun filled with bacon, mushroom, cream cheese and pepperoni sauce and topped with toasted sesame seeds.

SWEET treats White Chocolate and Cranberry Muffin PHP100 NEW Moist muffin with chunks of white chocolate and dried cranberry bits.

QUICK bites Nova PHP50 Chippy PHP50

Cheese Roll PHP80 Cheese-filled soft bread frosted with creamed butter sugar.

Mini Choco Chip Cookies PHP100 Bite-size chocolate chip cookies

HEARTY meals Nissin Cup Noodles PHP80 (seafood/beef/chicken) Shin/Shrimp Big Bowl PHP150

!

Caution: Our cup noodles are served with piping hot water. Please be extra careful when having them.

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Piattos PHP50 Dried Mangoes PHP200


Onboard treats

Drinks

HOT drinks Twinings Hot Teas PHP50 NEW (English breakfast/jasmine green tea/ chamomile & spearmint) Café Mocha PHP80 Creamy Dark Chocolate PHP80 Brewed Coffee PHP80 Instant White Coffee PHP40

COLD drinks Mineral Water PHP50 Chuckie Chocolate Milk Drink PHP50 Vitamilk Soy Milk PHP50 Minute Maid Pulpy Juice PHP50 (orange) C2 Flavored Green Tea PHP50 (apple/lemon) Canned Soda PHP50 (Pepsi/Pepsi Max/7-Up/ Mountain Dew NEW ) Mogu Mogu PHP50 (lychee/coconut) Gatorade PHP50 (red/blue) Iced Milk Tea PHP100 (taro/wintermelon/Thai) Nyogi PHP50 NEW (Pure Coconut Water)

ALCOHOLIC drinks Asahi Super Dry Beer PHP150 San Miguel Beer PHP130 (pale pilsen/light) Yellow Tail Wines PHP200 (chardonnay/shiraz/merlot)

PLEASE NOTE: • Items may vary depending on the route • Subject to available stock • Goods sold are not refundable • We accept foreign currency — please ask the cabin crew.

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Onboard merchandise

Travel essentials Chasing Wanderlust Philippine Scratch-Off Map PHP995

NEW

NEW

NEW Destinations Hoodie PHP999

NEW Packing Cube Set PHP380

Cebu Pacific & Smart Bro Fun Data SIM PHP500 Available on all international flights bound for the Philippines

Wandersky Luggage Cover PHP1,200 Other designs available; international flights only

NEW

NEW Destination Lanyards PHP100

CEB Cup & Cover PHP250

GoLite Luggage Scale PHP490

Fashion Socks Low cut PHP150 NEW Ankle PHP170 Mid-calf PHP200

NEW NEW Parachute Backpack PHP500 Other designs available

CEB Fun Blanket PHP350

Hold-All Duffel Bag PHP350

CEB Siesta Kit PHP280

Destinations Shirts PHP400

CEB Chubby Puzzle Plane PHP350

Lagu Beach Blanket PHP999 Sand repellent

CEB Stuffed Toy PHP350

De-stress Travel Kit PHP200

A320 Die-Cast Plane PHP550

*Every pair comes with a soft case

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TRAVEL HARDCORE

For those who take traveling very seriously. By Manix Abrera

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Century Properties has created some of the most desired residential projects in Philippine real estate history. In the joyous spirit of this holiday season, we are giving you what is truly the best gift for you and your family. For the first time ever, Century will be offering its new signature Easy to Own Program! Our new Easy to Own a Century Home Program allows you to pay even lower monthly amortizations, you can move in quicker, and have your choice of availing of a bank loan or our new in-house financing with terms of up to 15 years. It has never been this easy to own a Century home! Call us today and avail of this limited offer so that you may give your family unlimited joy for generations to come.

Trump Tower Philippines – Makati City For as low as P136K* per month

The Milano Residences Interior Design by Versace Home – Makati City For as low as P50K* per month

Acqua Livingstone Interior Design by MissoniHome – Mandaluyong City For as low as P27K* per month

Acqua Private Residences – Mandaluyong City For as low as P25K* per month

The Residences at Commonwealth – Quezon City For as low as P52K** per month

Azure Urban Resort Residences – Paranaque City For as low as P29K* per month

For more information, contact:

www.century-properties/easy-to-own (63) 917-5555-274 • ask@century-properties.com *Indicative monthly payment for a 1BR unit **Indicative monthly payment for a 2BR unit Authorized to sell by HLURB: Trump Tower Philippines LTS No. 26183, Milano Residences LTS No. 25038, Acqua Niagara LTS No. 25631, Acqua Sutherland LTS No. 26132, Acqua Detiffoss LTS No. 26229, Acqua Livingstone LTS No. 26972, Azure Positano LTS No. 26378 , Azure Miami LTS No. 26379, Commonwealth Osmeña West LTS No. 28528.


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