TEXtalks International - January/February 2017 by TEXtalks International

Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Saba Noor Farooq Malik Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Mohammad Ahmed Mohammad Khan Abdul Haseeb Qaisar Hameed Layouts Faizan Khan Circulation Incharge Mohammad Bilal Khan Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

Trade Enhancement Package; 10m cotton bales that is to reach ginneries; Water-Top concern of textile Rs.162 billion for the modernization and development of textile sector was a big achievement for Ministry of Textile in years 2016. The sector got Rs.162 billion from Rs.180 billion the “Trade Enhancement Package” announced by Prime Minister Muhammad Nawaz Sharif. The package is for the coming 18 months starting from January 2017 to June 2018. “The purpose of this package is to enhance the exports of the country which is the good initiative by the government. Pakistan is witnessing an increase in the cotton production in the recent year. According to the reports for about 1,06,34000 bales of Phutti (cotton seed) has reached the ginners in all around Pakistan. According to the recent fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA), a net of over 10 million bales of Phutti had undergone the ginning process till the 1st of February 2017. Currently performed market research and survey, targeting the leading textile dealers, showed that water is the major and the most serious long-term environmental challenge for the textile industry, around the globe. The point is highlighted in a

research by Eco textile News, restating the views of leading stakeholders of the industry including; Puma. Adidas, ZDHC, Benetton, Inditex, H&M, M&S, the China National & Apparel Council and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition etc. This performed research was about the challenges in terms of environmental impact and sustainability in the textile industry, globally. Covering a wide range of area the research contains reviews from different apparel business to NGOs, industry groups and chemical suppliers from Germany, US, China, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Ireland and many other parts of the world. ICA Bremen’s have planned a textile training program in May 2017 that is scheduled from 9th to 16th of May 2017. The ICA Bremen has planned to deliver a six day ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training program in Bremen, Germany. ICA Bremen, an international center of excellence for cotton testing, research, and quality training. This program will educate the textile related individuals to gain precise knowledge in terms of classification and testing of cotton and that of the textile machinery.

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Trade Enhancement Package Rs. 162 billion for the textiles sector

Rs.162 billion for the modernization and development of textile sector was a big achievement for Ministry of Textile in years 2016. The sector got Rs.162 billion from Rs.180 billion the “Trade Enhancement Package” announced by Prime Minister Muhammad Nawaz Sharif. The package is for the coming 18 months starting from January 2017 to June 2018. “The purpose of this package is to enhance the exports of the country,” said so was by APP. The officials also mentioned that the government has decided to offer drawback on duties in garment sector for about 7%, process fabric with 5%, and made-up with 6% in the coming 18 months. In addition, the government gives a relaxation on the import of textile machinery in order to modernize and enhance the capacity of a textile sector of Pakistan. This package will be of great help to decrease the cost of business and as a result will enhance the business activities. The government has also announced 16 new varieties of cotton to enhance the production and growth of the textile sector in Pakistan. The Ministry has also started a training program for the cotton grower to educate them well about pest control management and crop management, as this will surely have an impact on the production of the crop. About 5,000 progressive workers and farmers from field extension and provincial agricultural department had trained in the initial phase. Further, it was told that the ministry has already trained about 5,000 cotton farmers to deal with climatic changes and pink bollworm attack control. The cotton production target was revised to 11.272 million bales for current sowing season as against the set targets of 14.5 million bales for

the last crop season (2016-17). This season the expect cotton production was 10.5 million as compared to 9.07 million bales produced in the last session. In the first stage about 500 master trainers from agriculture departments and ginners association would be trained. In the next step, they will train the cotton growers across the country and make sure they are capable of dealing with any kind of outbreak of pest or any other insect. In the first stage, about 10,000 farmers are trained the pest management. This kind of training will surely help them to deal with the pest attack and reduce the risk of damage to the crop, resulting in higher end results. As a review of the meeting, the experts in the meeting agreed on the legislation to improve the cotton yield and in this way cotton will remain the prime contributor to the economy of Pakistan. Further, it was told that the project development and innovation wing of the ministry of Pakistan have also initiated a number of projects to bring more innovation in the textile industry. In this manner, 1000 stitching units are planned to be established in all districts of the country. At the same time, a small incubator industry is also proposed for the development of public sector 2017-17. The purpose of this step is to persuade the upcoming entrepreneurs from Vietnam and Malaysia. At the same time, the government of Pakistan has focused on providing an uninterrupted electricity and gas to the textile sector that will surely work as a huge support to the growth and sustainability of the industry and the country at the same time. A complete report on the package is included in the reports section of the magazine.

News

10m cotton bales to reach ginneries in Pakistan Pakistan is witnessing an increase in cotton production in the current year. About 1,06,34000 bales of Phutti (cotton seed) has reached the ginners in all around Pakistan. This number has registered an increase of around 10.63 % as compare to the production in last year. According to the recent fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA), a net

of over 10 million bales of Phutti had undergone the ginning process till the 1st of February 2017. Further, said in the report that the exporters purchased about 22,356 cotton bales. As that of the textile mills purchased 9,515,478 bales in recent season. Apart from it, around 916,793 bales are still lying in the ginners as an unsold stock.

Energy tariff rationalization is a must to boost textile exports Chairman APTMA The chairman of APTMA (All Pakistan Textile Mills Association), Mr. Aamir Fayyaz said that to boost exports and further investment, rationalization of energy tariff in textile industry is a must. He delivered his views while addressing a press conference at the APTMA Punjab on Saturday, 4th February 2017. Chairman APTMA Punjab Syed Ali Ahsan, besides the other office bearers, were also present at the occasion. At the time when the chairman APTMA appreciated the export package of Rs. 180 billion from the federal government, he also pointed the energy costs that are yet hampering the textile industry. Textile industry of Pakistan is the backbone of economy of Pakistan when it comes to talk about exports. However it is not able to pass on the high energy costs to its international buyers in the tough competition in global market. Chairman APTMA also said that both gas and electricity are a major factor in cost of doing the textile business. Talking about electricity in particular he said that the textile industry tariff is loaded with number of surcharges, inefficiencies of system and the recovery losses. “The government was charging exorbitant tariff

to the textile industry that was not possible to be passed on to the international buyers,” he stated. While talking about the gas supply he said that the government was providing it from and imported and domestic sources with two different tariffs. “The domestic supply is available at Rs600 per MMBTU against the imported supply at Rs950 per MMBTU,” he added. He said that the textile mills heavily dependent on imported gas supply are deprived of a level playing field within the country. “The government should introduce weighted average price of gas both for domestic and imported supplies to encourage new investment in the textile industry,” he emphasized. The chairman also demanded for the availability of the electricity at the price rate of 7Pkr per unit and that of gas at 600Pkr per MMBTU, inclusive of the GIDC to the textile industry, across the country. While addressing the attendees he also said that the textile industry of Pakistan will surely be benefited by the Pak China Economic Corridor only if the government ensures a level playing field to compete regionally and domestically.

TPP- US withdrawal and impact on global trade attitudes On 23rd of January, the newly elected U.S. President Donald J. Trump signed an executive order about the withdrawal of United States from the Trans-Pacific Partnership. According to Mr. President, the agreement is a “disaster” and a “worse trade deal.” Noteworthy is that, signed by 12 nations in February 2016, the pact cannot take an effect without United States participation. This withdrawal of United Stated from the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) is considered as a momentum for the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP). The exit of US is expected to accelerate the significant shift in the overall landscape of trading policies in the Asia Pacific. Just like many others, the decision is expected to have a positive impact on the economic leadership position of China in the Asia-Pacific. At the time, China is undertaking its individual regional economic initiatives like One Belt One Road strategy that is playing a major role in creating a development

finance institution like AIIB (Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank). On the other hand, the ministry of finance of Kenya has also welcomed the US withdrawal from TPP. The reason for appreciation is that the duty-free exports to the US have had a huge impact on the exports and economy of Kenya. “The withdrawal from this trade agreement by Donald Trump is good news for Kenya, particularly the country’s textile industry,” said the Trade Principal Secretary of Kenya, Chris Kiptoo. At the same time, the Indonesian textile and garment producers are also looking forward to a level playing field in the United States. Despite the positive feedback from major textile exporters, it is said that the withdrawal of US from the TPP will abandon the trade deal that was the root of Obama’s re-engagement with the Asian Nations. The supporters of the TPP are claiming that the pact was in favor of Americans as it would end up giving the lower price imported consumer goods.

Time to find new opportunities with positive attitude Danish Mission Deputy Head Jakob Rogild Jakobsen Falsifying partnerships are barrier to further foreign investments and growth of textile industry of Pakistan. Altering our attitudes in business strategies was the primary point of discussion from Danish ambassador. On the last day of January, this year, the Danish Mission Deputy Head Jakob Rogild Jakobsen, attended and addressed the PTEA (Pakistan Textile Exporters Association) meeting in Faisalabad, Pakistan.

traditional friendship and cooperation is different fields. However, the current situation demands for strengthening the relationship and making strong business bonding. To move in the given direction, necessary is to conduct more and more business meetings, delegations and other opportunities where the two countries can look closely into the possibilities at both ends.

While addressing his main concerns he said that despite the fact that Denmark and Pakistan are trading with high volumes, there is still room for improvement. Pakistan has huge investment and growth opportunities, if managed properly. He also shared his views that because of the huge market, Pakistan offers vibrant opportunities to the Danish investors in various different sectors of market, specifically Textile.

Pakistan owns a great deal of untapped potential and this can be used to strengthen the business relationships between the two economies; said so was by Danish ambassador. On the other hand, speaking on the occasion, the chairman of PTEA, Ajmal Farooq termed Denmark as an important trading partner from the European Union. He also said that the two economies have the potential of high volume trading but the opportunities are neglected and now there is a need to look into the matter and polish these possibilities to earn mutual benefits.

It’s been long that the two countries are enjoying

Pakistan-EU exports hike by 37% A recent review of the exports between Pakistan and the European Union showed an upsurge of about 37% in last 3 years. The report is determined by the generalized scheme of the preferences (GSP) in addition to the status awarded to Pakistan by EU, back in December 2013. A zero tariff for exports is also giving a favor to the Pakistani exports. The GSP status makes it possible for Pakistan to mark an export of about 20% of the net exports at zero rates with preferential rates for 70% of the net exports. It is estimated that the annual trade between the two regions will be above $7 billion. The balance of trade is also expected to be nearly equal. Textile, medical equipment’s and leather products are the major exported items by Pakistan to EU. The aim of GSP plus status is to increase these exports to about $ 2 billion and create more job opportunities.

The major beneficiary of the GSP plus are textile and apparel exporters from Pakistan. Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, the toughest competitors of Pakistan, are already taking advantage of the duty-free access to European alliance. This makes up around 60% of the net exports from Pakistan to EU. As according to the statement of the Pakistan federal commerce minister, Khurram Dastgir Khan; “The GSP status offers huge potential for enhancing mutual trade between Pakistan and the EU.” He further said that: “The focus of Pakistan has shifted towards strengthening its economy through trade rather than aid. Economic and social indicators are on the rise in Pakistan.” Dastgir also revealed that the chemicals, export machinery, and dyes from the European Union also increased for about 14%. These products are basically used in the manufacturing process of exports of textile and garments in the market of Europe.

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2017 presents ‘’Luxury Brands’’, the exclusive event for international hand-made carpets labels The carpet sector will occupy once again center stage at the next edition of DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR with 5 halls hosting everything from hand-made carpets, wall-to-wall carpets, carpet tiles, woven and machine-tufted carpets, mats, carpet raw materials to latest carpet technology. ‘’In recent years, the carpet and rugs market, has shown substantial growth due to the rising urbanized population, demand for modular carpets and resurgence of the construction industry in developing economies. The residential market will remain the leading end user for carpets and rugs even though the non-residential market is also growing thank to the rising investment in offices, commercial and institutional construction. In the last few years more and more consumers are also willing to spend money on bringing about aesthetic improvements to their homes or office spaces and this condition is creating a favorable environment for the development of luxury carpets and rugs industry.’’ explains Mr. David Zhong, President of VNU Exhibitions Asia, one of the organizers of the shows. Following the industry trends, the next edition of DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2017 will host Luxury Brands, an exclusive carpets event brought together in collaboration with COVER magazine. The display will feature a curated selection of high-end hand-made carpets from an exclusive list of international rug brands. Companies that have already confirmed their participation to this exclusive showcase are: Amadi Carpets, Ariana Rugs, Art Resources, Ayka Design, Creative Matters, Knots Rugs, Samad, Tissage, Wool & Silk Rugs and Zollanvari. The Luxury Brands area, located inside cadex, the design platform of DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR in W5 Hall, will have a very special design and will be open only to rug buyers, distributors and VIPs. ‘’Luxury Brands is the perfect platform for a Chinese audience to see some of the best high-end

hand-made rugs brands we have been celebrating in COVER magazine in recent years. The carpets on display will be the best examples of their type and will surely create a buzz at the show. The event will enhance the hand-made rug displays for 2017, offering visitors to DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR even greater scope in flooring.’’ says Lucy Upward, editor of COVER. COVER and DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR wish to bring a selection of the best Western brands to the Chinese market with a range of companies from Asia, Europe, America and Canada. Each firm will bring two of its recent high-end hand-made rug designs to dazzle the DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR visitors. Through the Luxury Brands event Asian buyers will be given access to the brands that are proving successful within rug industries in the West while the featured companies will be offered opportunities within the thriving market in China and Asia. ‘’It is an honor to show our designs alongside some of the top designers in our industry. We are always looking to expand in new areas and regions of the world.’’ Erbil Tezcan, Wool and Silk Rugs. ‘’China is a new and important market for us; we have long been an admirer of their pioneering approach to design. They are open to exploring new trends and the variety of design they have is very inspiring. The country has a very creative scene happening at the moment so it’s an exciting time for us to be part of this growth. It allows us to create new designs especially for China with our own contemporary aesthetics with a respect for traditional heritage, materials and craftsmanship.’’ Michelle Evans, Ayka Design. Luxury Brands will definitely be a must-see event at DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR in March 2017. DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2017 will take place March 21-23, 2017 in Shanghai, China. The online registration portal is now open and admittance for pre-registered visitors is free. For more information about the show visit www.domotexasiachinafloor.com

World’s cotton production will grow by 2% in 2017/18

In its first estimate of the 2017/18 crop, the ICACA Secretariat predicts that world cotton output will rise by 2% to 23.4 million tons. The expansion is the result of an increase in planted area, which is expected to grow by 5% to 30.6 million hectares after two seasons of contraction. After improving by 13% to 781 kg/ha in 2016/17, the world average yield is projected to decline by 2% to 764 kg/ha.

2015/16 led to a 12% decrease to 2.5 million hectares in Pakistan’s cotton area in 2016/17. The average yield recovered by 32% to 699 kg/ha and output is estimated up by 17% to 1.8 million tons. Pakistan’s cotton area is forecast to increase by 3% to 2.6 million hectares, and assuming a yield of 739 kg/ha, Pakistan’s production could reach 1.9 million tons.

In 2016/17, the cotton area in India, the largest cotton-producing country, fell by 12% to 10.5 million hectares due to competition from food crops. However, the average yield recovered by 16% to 560 kg/ha, and production in 2016/17 is estimated to rise by 2% to 5.9 million tons. In 2017/18, India’s area is forecast to recover by 7% to 11.2 million hectares as firm domestic cotton prices and less attractive prices for competing crops attract more farmers to cotton. Assuming a national average yield of 530 kg/ha, production will increase by 1% to 6 million tons. Cotton area in China declined for five consecutive seasons, reaching 2.8 million hectares in 2016/17. However, output has not fallen as quickly due to the fact that the share of cotton grown in Xinjiang, which has higher yields than other producing regions in China, has increased considerably. China’s cotton production in 2016/17 is estimated at 4.7 million tons. In 2017/18, its cotton area may expand by 3% to 2.9 million hectares, and cotton output in China could reach 4.8 million tons in 2017/18. Following a season of higher than expected yields and firm cotton prices, cotton area in the United States is expected to expand by 10% to 4.2 million hectares in 2017/18. The average yield in the United States improved by 12% to 958 kg/ha in 2016/17, and production is estimated at 3.7 million tons. In 2017/18, production in the United States is projected to rise by 7% to 4 million tons, assuming an average yield of 935 kg/ha. A significant drop in yields and poor returns in

World cotton mill use is expected to remain stable at 24.1 million tons in 2016/17 as high cotton prices discouraged growth in demand. However, mill use may expand by 1% to 24.3 million tons in 2017/18. Mill use in the top three consuming countries, China, India, and Pakistan, is expected to remain unchanged from 2016/17. However, mill use is forecast to grow in Turkey, Bangladesh, and Vietnam by 2% to 1.5 million tons, by 5% to 1.5 million tons, and by 7% to 1.2 million tons, respectively. Given the continued growth in mill use in countries that depend on imports, world cotton trade is projected to increase by 5% to 8.2 million tons in 2017/18 from 7.8 million tons in 2016/17. Bangladesh is likely to maintain its position as the world’s largest importer of cotton with its volume forecast to rise by 5% to 1.5 million tons. Vietnam’s import volume is projected to grow by 8% to 1.3 million tons. Given the large exportable surplus and strong demand, exports from the United States are anticipated to rise by 17% to 3.2 million tons in 2017/18. India’s exports are forecast to fall by 7% to 875,000 tons in 2017/18. World cotton stocks are expected to decline by 6% at the end of 2016/17 to 18.1 million tons as China reduces its stocks by 17% to 9.3 million tons. However, stocks outside of China are projected to increase by 8% to 8.8 million tons or 36% of mill use in 2016/17.

The Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton Australia team up to support training for Pakistani cotton farmers

The Australian Government, Cotton Australia and the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) have together launched a partnership to support the training of approximately 225,000 Pakistani cotton farmers commencing with the 2017 cotton season. This partnership will deliver practical tools and the latest environmental and cutting-edge management practices aligned with internationally recognised quality assurance for sustainable cotton production. Pakistani farmers will be trained in techniques for growing cotton with a focus on improved environmental, social and economic benefits, in line with the Better Cotton Standard System. Cotton is an important export earner for Pakistan – the fourth largest producer of cotton in the world. The partnership has been established to support Pakistan’s ability to compete in premium international cotton markets. The Australian Government has committed AUD500,000 to this project which will be supported through the Australian aid program’s Business Partnerships Platform. Australia’s contribution will be matched by AUD2.4m from the BCI Growth and Innovation Fund. The BCI Growth and Innovation Fund’s matching funds come from BCI Retailer and

Brand members, such as Adidas, IKEA, H&M, Levi Strauss & Co, Marks & Spencer, Cotton On, Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Tommy Hilfiger and Nike. Lena Staafgard, BCI Chief Operating Officer noted that the partnership represents an important step forward for BCI in promoting cross-learning between cotton growing countries. “This collaboration will deliver tangible value to cotton farmers in Pakistan as they gain access to the vast body of deep knowledge on good agricultural practices held by Cotton Australia, as well as being able to participate in BCI training programmes to promote more sustainable farming practices. At BCI, we’re excited to be able to link up our partners across the world, with the aim of benefitting the global cotton sector.” Australian High Commissioner to Pakistan, Margaret Adamson welcomed the launch. “The partnership will work closely with Cotton Australia and Australian cotton farmers who will share their world-leading practices, skills and experience with farmers in Pakistan. By promoting Australian cotton practices we will aim to help improve the global reputation of Pakistan cotton, safeguarding cotton’s future in Pakistan,” Ms Adamson said. Adam Kay, CEO of Cotton Australia said “Australian cotton farmers are happy to share knowledge and experience to assist other cotton producers (in this

case Pakistani) improve their sustainability, as this gives brands and retailers the confidence to use cotton in their products. More and more global brands and retailers only want to source cotton that has been responsibly produced.” The partnership brings together the world’s largest cotton sustainability program, BCI, with some of the world’s largest retail brands that have committed to

significant targets for sustainable cotton use in their products. BCI’s strategic partner and fund manager, the IDH Sustainable Trade Initiative, will provide strategic support and through its convening and cofunding power support Better Cotton market demand for cotton which is produced in an environmentally, economically and socially sustainable manner, while also equipping farmers in Pakistan with the skills to meet that demand.

FPCCI seeks catalyst for export sector The Federation of Pakistan Chamber of Commerce and Industry (FPCCI) recently organized a session to bring into light the announced export package of Rs. 180 billion. Zubair F Tufail, the president of the FPCCI, spoke about the outcomes of his meeting with the finance minister and the prime minister of Pakistan. He said that he had requested the prime minister, Mian Nawaz Shareef for an enticement package for the crops and all other export based sub-sectors. This request is made in order to use the maximum potential of these products. He also praised S. M. Muneer for his efforts in bringing the export package of R.s 180 billion for exporters. According to his believe this package will be basically for the 5 zero-rated export sectors. Further, in his discussion, he introduced the budget proposals from the association to be made as a part of the federal budget in 2017/18. Exporters from different market sectors demanded the implementation of textile policy (2014/19), wherein several incentives were announced including; increase in share of value-addition in products, reduction in export refinance rate (EFS) and long-term financing facility (LTFF), subsidy on long-term loans and development and special duty drawbacks, etc. “The exporters will be liable to increase exports by five percent in the first six months and then by 10 percent in the next year.” Said by Irfan Sarwana; vice president of the FPCCI. The session was also attended by Ishtiaq Baig and Saquib Fayyaz Magoon, vice presidents of the FPCCI and other prominent businessmen.

Water

A top concern of global textile industry

Recently, a market research and survey, targeting the leading textile dealers, showed that water is the major and the most serious long-term environmental challenge for the textile industry, around the globe. The point is highlighted in a research by Ecotextile News, restating the views of leading stakeholders of the industry including; Puma. Adidas, ZDHC, Benetton, Inditex, H&M, M&S, the China National & Apparel Council and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition etc. The performed research was about the challenges in terms of environmental impact and sustainability in the textile industry, globally. Covering a wide range of area the research contains reviews from different apparel business to NGOs, industry groups and chemical suppliers from Germany, US, China, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Ireland and many other parts of the world. By the end of research, scarcity of water was found to be the major issue highlighted by all. The head of global operations of Adidas, Glenn Bennett said that "the ever growing issue of water scarcity." On the other hand the senior director of Sustainable innovation Gap Inc. from US, Ms. Melissa Fifield said that "We believe water is a human right, and are taking steps to address our impact while also ensuring safe access to clean water for communities touched by our business." At the same time, Ingvar Larsson, the CEO of Scandinavian fashion brand â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lindexâ&#x20AC;? said that with no doubts water is the gravest environmental threat that is

fronting the textile industry. He added that "Water is a human right and it is crucial for our industry. Lack of water will have major penalties for the industry and the people who live where we operate." In the meantime, the CEO of Archroma, Alexander Wessels suggested that "an interesting concept would be to promote free water for populations and costly water for industry." The Archroma is a well-known name in the field of textile chemical business. Similarly, Eric Hopmann, the CEO of Dystar contended that "the huge amount of water that is required in textile production and the quality of effluents will require continuous improvements." From the Chinese perspective, Mr. John Cheh, the vice chairperson and CEO of Esquel Group said that "It has been estimated that in China, close to 20 % of the wastewater is generated by the textile industry. We must, therefore, focus on water conservation, wastewater treatment, and recycling." The Esquel group deals with the textile manufacturing. Here another point is that the water consumption and pollution related to textile industry is the main theme of the forthcoming Planet Textile event. This event is planned to be held in Bangalore, India on 24th of May 2017. Expected is to see some major advancement for the textile industry in terms of saving water and measures/ideas that can help the textile industry to cope with the scarcity of water as a major issue in textile industry, around the globe.

Pakistan-Turkey FTA The sixth round talks Back in 2015, Pakistan and Turkey signed a Term of reference, negotiating on the mutual Free Trade Agreement. The documents were signed in the first round of talks in Ankara, back in October 2015. Robina Athar, the Additional Secretary Commerce led on behalf of Pakistan while the Turkish side was led by then Acting Deputy under-secretary Economy, Husnu Dilemre. The two countries restated a comprehensive free trading agreement and settled negotiation on a fast- track basis. The background of this Pakistan-Turkey FTA pact is based on the decision made by the Prime Ministers of the two countries during a meeting of the High Level Strategic Cooperation Council in Islamabad in February 2015. Now the 6th round of negotiation on FTA between Pakistan and Turkey was held in last week of January 2017, through a digital video meeting. Both sides made a discussion on the agreement of services, goods and other investments. Further in this manner, the agreement would be signed in April 2017. According to the senior officials of Ministry of Commerce, because of the additional duties imposed by the Turkish government, back in 2011, the trade balance of Pakistan started to decrease with a rate of 19% per annum. Because of these duties, the exports

of Pakistan dropped form USD 873 million in 2011 to USD 311 million in 2015. This situation gave rise to the need of making such an agreement that can help both the economies to maintain a fair trade and enjoy economic stability in terms of import and exports. The major exports of Pakistan to Turkey include; denim PET, ethanol, cotton yarn, fabric and garments, carpet, rice, leather, surgical instruments and sports good, chemicals. While major imports include; manmade textiles, towels, steel structure, tanning and plastic chemicals, processed milk and whey. The additional imposed tariffs from Turkey have a considerable impact on the major exports of Pakistan. With all such situations the major purpose of signing the FTA with turkey was to provide both the countries with an opportunity to have a positive trade balance. The FTA is of great importance for both economies and is based on a number of facts from past. However, the FTA between Pakistan and Turkey will open doors for co-operation and free trading of goods from/to Turkey and Pakistan. At the same time it will open doors of opportunities for trading between Europe and Pakistan. The pact is considered as a great opportunity for the investors in both countries and expected is to have a sustainable and better access to the markets.

5th International conference on textile and clothing by UMT Lahore The School of Textile and Design (STD) University of Managements and Technology is hosting a two day 5th International Conference on Textile and Clothing (ICTC5) on March 24-25, 2017 at its main campus situated in C-II Johar Town, Lahore, Pakistan. The major areas covered at the event will include: • Next Generation Textile Fibers • Textile Fabrication Technologies and processes • Textile Testing and Characterization • Textile Marketing and Management • Technical Textiles • Textile Fashion and Design • Textile Composites • Nanotechnology in Textiles • Fiber Recycling • Textile Industry and Environment • Occupational Safety and Health in

Textile Industry The conference aims to provide a platform for researchers, academician, industrialists, marketing and management professional and student in the field of Textiles, clothing, and fashion from around the globe to communicate through scientific presentations, talks, Posters, and batch-to-batch meetings. The detailed information about submission of an abstract and full paper, conference, registration, accommodation, and traveling to Pakistan can be found on the conference website. To know more about the event you can visit http://std.umt.edu.pk/5thictc/Home.aspx TEXtalks International is the official media partner of the conference.

International summit on textile colouration A focus on sustainability

Organized by SDC International, the International Summit on textile Coloration 2017 will be held on 8th of March, in Colombo, Sri Lanka. According to the publically announced details, the conference will provide a chance to all the textile colourists, buyers, retailers, garment producers, academicians and researchers from around the world to discuss technical innovations and the GREEN initiatives in the textile coloration industry. The event will be addressing some of the difficult questions regarding technical innovation and

environmental sustainability in the textile coloration industry. The event will consist of three sessions; • Compliance in Colour Management • Compliance in Textile Coloration • Compliance in Fashion Offering the visitors, an opportunity to meet potential leads who are striving to bring a change in the textile industry, the event is expected to witness a large number of visitors from all parts of the world. To know more from the event organizers visit, www.sdc.org.uk

ICA Bremen’s training program in May 2017 Scheduled from 9th to 16th of May 2017, ICA Bremen has planned to deliver a six day ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training program in Bremen, Germany. ICA Bremen, an international center of excellence for cotton testing, research, and quality training. The announced program is aimed to educate individuals striving to gain an in-depth knowledge in classifying cotton, testing of cotton and textile machinery. There would be an optional two-day course; “Learning about Machinery” that will be delivered in association with the Institute of Textile & Process Engineering (ITV). The training will take place on May 18-19 at ITV in Denkendorf, Germany. According to Karsten Forese from the ICA Bremen; “This year ICA Bremen continues its popular Classing & Testing training. We will cover essential basics regarding the quality of cotton and explore other topics in more detail to give participants good knowledge of important aspects of visual and instrumental quality evaluation for their work in the cotton industry.” He further added that: “After the great feedback we got from delegates on last year’s ‘Learning about Machinery’ course, we decided to offer it once again in cooperation with one of Europe's biggest textile institute, the ITV Denkendorf.” The cost of the training program for the ICA/ BBB members would be around €900 while that for that of non-members the cost will be €1,100. The ticket price will include the training material, refreshments, visit to local warehouse and a welcome meal and a farewell meal.

“Dare to print different” FESAP 2017 global print expo It’s time to witness something different, offering the courage to deal with the innovation in style, FESPA comes with a printing trade show from May 8 to 12, 2017. About to be held in Hamburg Germany, the event is themed as of “dare to print different”. According to the resources, the event will celebrate rich and innovative technology and its role in helping the printers to meet their potential and differentiate themselves by offering innovation in end products. FESPA global print expo is largest and one of its kind and comprehensive event covering all the screen and digital format, signage, and textile printing. From 130 countries, the event attracts more than 23,000 visitors to the venue. With more than 50 years of heritage, the event is organized by the FESPA. The expo will include co-located events of Printeriors and European Sign Expo. FOR registrations and further details you can visit the official website of FESPA. The expo brings a number of business opportunities for the individuals from every link of printing supply chain. An ideal opportunity to network and make

potential business connections, it brings various opportunities for the growth of a company or an individual. The event format offers the visitors with highly informative and relevant educational content, new ideas and techniques, unimaginable product demonstration with latest innovations, meeting the potential peers, business solution ideas, diversification for profit and much more. According to the resources the displayed product range, I will comprise of; screen printing machinery & inks manufacturers, pre-press and design software suppliers, digital printing machinery, signage suppliers, garment, promotional & workwear suppliers, Cleaning products, chemicals & adhesives manufacturers, finishing equipment suppliers, trade service providers and much more. The theme of this entire campaign is to bring into light the help of a robotic hand releasing a butterfly. The focus has been placed on explaining the critical role of technology in creative printing and the expansion of printing as a medium of visual communication.

COTTON USA offered sourcing support at Texworld COTTON USA promoted U.S. cotton and offered sourcing support to the fashion industry supply chain at its exhibit at Texworld in Paris from February 6-9, 2017, in Hall 2 F187. COTTON USA provided visitors with comprehensive background information on responsibly-produced U.S. cotton, global cotton market developments, the findings of current market and consumer studies, and its ongoing Licensing, Marketing and Sourcing Programs. COTTON USA provided proactive support through its Sourcing Program with respect to procurement issues, which includes organized sourcing trips to important regions. Visitors also visited the exhibit to discover the COTTON USA Marketing and Licensing Program and learn about COTTON USA’s collaboration with leading brands and retailers around the world. Cotton is a natural and renewable fiber, and U.S. cotton producers are leading the way in responsible cotton production practices. U.S. cotton has a track record of continuous improvement with respect to

water and crop protection product use, and habitat and soil preservation. The U.S. system’s transparency allows for constant monitoring and improvement. The roughly 18,000 U.S. cotton growers comply with stringent U.S. government regulatory requirements and are committed to the principle of continuous improvement. At the COTTON USA exhibit, the textile trade was able to gather information on how the Cotton LEADS ™ program, initiated by Australia and the United States, offers manufacturers, brands and retailers a reliable cotton supply chain solution and confidence that the raw material used from these countries is responsibly produced and identified. COTTON USA is a premium trademark ingredient brand that identifies products made from U.S. cotton through all stages of processing and marketing. COTTON USA has strong consumer awareness and preference for COTTON USA, with more than 51,000 product lines and 3.8 billion products having proudly carried the name COTTON USA since 1989.

www.lenzing-fibers.com

Definition of softness and comfort Combined with Edelweiss® fiber technology Lenzing bring its Lenzing Modal® range of naturally soft and exceptionally ecological fiber

With headquartered in Austria, production sites in all major markets as well as a worldwide network of sales and marketing offices, the Lenzing Group is a world market leader supplying the global textile and nonwovens industry with high-quality, botanic cellulose fibers. Its portfolio ranges from dissolving pulp to standard and specialty cellulose fibers.

Quality and innovative strength

Lenzing quality and innovative strength set global standards for cellulose fibers. With 78 years of experience in fiber production, the Lenzing Group is the only company worldwide combining the manufacturing of all three cellulose fiber generations on a large scale under one roof – from the classic viscose to modal and the lyocell fiber TENCEL®.

The success of the Lenzing Group is based on its consistent customer orientation together with its leadership in innovation, technology and quality. Lenzing is committed to the principles of sustainable management and very high environmental standards.

Fashionable and ecological in color

Lenzing Modal® works with an idea of bringing new colors and making fashion, ecological. From blend to color innovation like cross-dyeing, Lenzing Modal® colors lends itself to all kinds of innovative applications.

Eco-friendly processing

Based on the Edelweiss® technology the Lenzing Group recently launched their new range of fiber that is soft, ecologically safe and wash sustainable. Edelweiss® technology deals with symbiotic production process in which the raw material, pulp is produced at the time of making of Lenzing Modal® fiber. And this easy energy and resources dealing process is simply known as Edelweiss! Lenzing brings the market with a new idea of making true colors of your own. The Lenzing Modal® brings in life, the idea of softness. The experts at Lenzing believe that the time has come to let the world show their real colors. This exclusive range of fiber is made up of color fibers that are offering advantages at both processing stage and in the end product. “With Lenzing Modal® you will again be one step ahead”; is what Lenzing strive for. Bringing up some new colors is another major aspect of Lenzing, specifically the Black. As told by the manufacturing experts, eco-friendliness is another advantage of this spun-dyed fiber. With this fiber, dyeing is no longer needed as a result of the color pigment is embedded directly in the fiber matrix. At the same time the technique spares the resources like water and energy, while processing the fabric. Resulting in ultimate fashion product with a clear integrity.

a) energy consumption standard fiber b) energy consumption Lenzing Modal® COLOR

Fashion and ecology go hand with Lenzing Modal® COLOR. For example, it has been proven that when processing Lenzing Modal® COLOR, up to 80% less energy is used and up to 75% of water can be saved in jet dyeing compared to standard fibers. The fiber is fashionable and ecological. (result depend on dyeing process).

Introducing color to fashion

a) water consumption stand fiber b) water consumption Lenzing Modal® COLOR

Lenzing Modal® COLOR introduces color to fashion. New effects can be created in application such as lingerie, shirts and loungewear. In particular socks of Lenzing Modal® COLOR promise to become bestsellers.

Color forever

with Lenzing Modal® COLOR, ttextile hold their original colors

Textiles of Lenzing Modal® COLOR are durable. The color stays put. No “bleeding”, as it known, occurs. Textiles of Lenzing Modal® COLOR remain as Colorful as on the first day even after repeated washing.

Edelweiss

Produced by Edelweiss® fiber technology

Lenzing Modal® COLOR is produced in an eco-friendly process Using Edelweiss® fiber technology. The fiber is produced in Austria from beechwood. It is carbon neutral and

up to 95% of processing chemical are recovered during production.

Lenzing MicroModal® is another brand from Lenzing and it brings ultimate softness to the fabric. Lenzing believe that there is no comfort without softness. With the changing attitudes of the customer’s purchasing style, comfort with softness seems to be a major priority for the customers. Believing in softness as a parameter for comfort of a fabric, it is necessary to make it soft to be perceived as comfy. Lenzing is expert when it comes to softness. With Lenzing Modal®, MicroModal® and MicroModal® AIR, the degrees of softness can be obtained in textiles in a completely natural way. The higher the amount of MicroModal®, or MicroModal® AIR in a textile, the softer and cozier it becomes.

Lenzing is redefining softness

Using different test methods, Lenzing has established a new standard which redefines softness and shoe how textiles with Lenzing Modal® fibers can change their softness degree. The lest method combines the well-known ring method with a new technology specially developed by Lenzing for textiles – the TSA method MicroModal® is the winner Textiles of MicroModal® attain the highest level of softness. Thanks to the low fiber rigidity and fiber cross-section, Lenzing Modal® fibers are natural softeners. In 100% of cases, the fibers develop pure softness and create wonderful textiles with outstanding comfort. They also last longer since textiles made with Lenzing Modal® remain as soft as they were when they were new and do not harden after several washes.

Tactile softness

Physical measuring methods are one way to determine softness. However, the human hands should serve as the primary method to test softness. And here again, in touch tests MicroModal® was convincing. A panel of 17 textile experts felt MicroModal® and declared it to be the softest fiber among cotton, viscose, and Lenzing Modal® fibers.

Happenings

GTex Global expo Karachi, Pakistan

Happenings

Happenings 36

Happenings

Heimtextil 2017 Frankfurt, Germany

Happenings

Mahlo GmbH (Germany) symposium, Lahore.

Domotex Hannover, Germany

Happenings

Corporate Highlights

The TWIN draw frame TD 9T has a compact design, with only one operator platform in the middle

The elements of technological importance are the same on all TrĂźtzschler draw frames. On the TWIN draw frame, all top rolls are pneumatically loaded and separately controllable as well.

New draw frame concept TWIN draw frame - this is what the new TrĂźtzschler Breaker Draw Frame TD 9T is called. TWIN means: A draw frame with two deliveries, but not based on the traditional double head principle. The advantage of low space requirement has been maintained. However, the disadvantage of the double head draw frames, poor efficiency, has been eliminated. Higher efficiency The TWIN draw frame TD 9T has two independent production sides. If a standstill occurs on one side, the other side continues producing. This also applies to the can changer. When one can is full, it is changed. There is no need to wait until the other can is full as well. There is no coupling efficiency between the two sides. Flexible applications With this concept it is even possible to produce different qualities on both sides. In a small air-jet

spinning mill, the TD 9T operates on one side as blending draw frame and on the other side as second passage. Reduced production costs The TWIN draw frame has been designed for the application of JUMBO CANS with 1,200 mm diameter. This applies to can set-up in the creel and at the delivery side. These cans hold 43% more sliver than conventional 1,000 mm cans. This means less sliver piecings and significantly less can transports. Easy operation Both draw frame sides are operated from a platform that is located in the middle. This saves space and reduces the walking distances for operators. The colour touch screen makes operation simple and effective.

Tamer Hasbay, President Has Group with Stefano Gallucci, CEO Santex Rimar Group

Santex Rimar Group and Has Group Further growth in textile machinery business Has Group enters in Santex Rimar Group with a worldwide agreement of premiere distribution bringing new competences, sound know-how and long-term experience expected to become new significant value-added solutions for Santex Rimar Group portfolio. Santex Rimar Group keeps growing with the aim of providing the largest and most comprehensive offering of the textile business in order to deeply understand and fulfill global customers’ needs during the whole production process. With this goal, different know-hows and cultures are united under high standards of quality, efficiency, advanced technology and reliability for customers. “Has Group is a manufacturing excellence with relevant know-how in textile finishing process and inter

alia in stenter machines production. From today on it will globally leverage on Santex Rimar Group distribution network, sales and marketing expertise” said Stefano Gallucci, Santex Rimar Group CEO who concludes: “With this agreement of premiere distribution, we will streamline our combined technical capabilities and expertise to build value-added solutions for customers throughout the world”. “We are pleased to announce the globalization of Has Group together with Santex Rimar Group”, said Tamer Hasbay, Has Group President, “Has Group will continue to take care of Turkey as well as in the neighboring countries but the new global structure will allow us to pursue profitable markets, build on our core strengths, accelerate our research and development activities and have a common quality platform for all our product lines”.

An Interview with Mrs Regina Brückner CEO-Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG. Germany TEXtalks- Back in 1949, Kurt Brückner established the company, how was the journey to get, where Brückner is? Regina Brückner: My father founded the company after the war and he was already working before the war in a company that was producing textile machines, was very famous at that time. Then, some customer came back to him saying that you made these wonderful machine for us at that time back then, could do that again for us. He started with textile machines and also with heat recovery for big spinning mills then he

always continued to develop. He was doing a lot of woven machines back then and it has constantly growing not only because of the strong textile industry in the south of Germany but also because we did the special purpose machines for special needs. TEXtalks- What is the Idea behind the concept Quality, made in Germany? Regina Brückner: We believe, we have to be in Germany and we have to control the quality there as we make so many different machines. We are not

making only stenters but a lot of other machines also that are always customized and it would be difficult to control that somewhere else. We have also put a lot of good engineers there and good know how of people in the factory but also on the technology service department so we believe that we have to be very strong in Germany and to serve out customer on the other hand worldwide. TEXtalks- How do you see Brückner changing over last five years, and how do you see yourself creating that change? Regina Brückner: Luckily, we were able to really grow very much in the past years. Off-course, we were also hit by the crisis in 2009 but since then we have developed a lot of new ideas and concepts. We were very successful to get really good project from our customer and we develop it together. Brückner is a family company and therefore it is not a one person doing but a team of persons. I see my job as just give them spirituals, concentrate on the team and how to create more to get there.

give our customers software and other techniques to improve productivity to so they use less energy for producing one-meter fabric. TEXtalks- What are Brückner's main products and how important is Pakistani market for your products? Regina Brückner: We have so many products, we have wide field off course for knit goods finishing that where we originally came from. We have stenters, we have relax dryers, compactors, everything for knit goods finishing. We have a wide range of woven finishing, where we have besides stenters, sanforizing, continuous dyeing ranges etc. Then there is the field of technical textile where we have carpet finishing machines, coating lines. In non-woven, we have through air dryer, non-woven bonding lines, and many other kinds of special machines. Pakistan is very important because for us. We have just achieved a lot of good orders there and we were able to also install very good machines in very famous companies. TEXtalks- As an innovative company what are Brückner’s goals in coming years?

TEXtalks- What does sustainability mean to Brückner? Regina Brückner: Sustainability is something that effects every body of us where there it is at home, in factory, on the way we travel, it’s always the thing that we have to consider. Because we have to think about the planet as a whole and we have to think about our children. So, we try to safe resources as much as possible where it’s in the office, in the factory but also off-course in the machine, we produce. We also try to

Regina Brückner: Our goal is to continuously grow and to grow sustainably. We decided already a few years ago to invest in a new company in Germany where we are building a new manufacturing plant to be most efficient and we are really happy that we are now finally in the stage of doing the factory or just started to build a factory and we think with all the orders coming in we hope that we will get good prospect for the future to server our customers faster and better.

Excitement for SPGPrints’ new 3200mm-wide JAVELIN® and 700mm-wide PIKE® home deco printers at Heimtextil 2017

Floral sample printed on SPGPrints JAVELIN 320mm printer

At Heimtextil 2017, SPGPrints presented the quality, fast time-to-market and cost-saving advantages of its digital inkjet technologies for varied home textile applications. Visitors were enthusiastic about the new 3200mm-wide JAVELIN® inkjet printer for bedlinen, curtains and upholstery that debuted at the show. There was also significant interest in the new 700mm-wide PIKE® Decor printer, a digital solution for furniture and panel laminate applications. Also welcomed were high-quality conventional printing innovations, particularly the collection of SpecialScreen® screens for creating aesthetically and sensually appealing wallcovering effects. In common with SPGPrints’ machine solutions for apparel applications, both the 3200mm JAVELIN and the PIKE Decor printers feature the company’s unique Archer® technology for precise delivery of ink. With nozzles 5mm from the substrate, a wider range of substrates can be run, with minimal chance of print head damage. The JAVELIN printer operates in scanning mode with an array of 36 Fujifilm Dimatix Samba print heads jetting ink in variable drop sizes (2pL-10pL) at resolutions of up to 1200 x 1200dpi. Thanks to its capability of delivering small drop sizes of highly concentrated inks, Archer technology combines very smooth gradations with a wider colour gamut than the HD-gamut of other digital textile printing solutions

using only six colours. Jos Notermans, commercial manager digital textiles at SPGPrints, comments: “Heimtextil was the ideal occasion to introduce our wider version of the JAVELIN inkjet printer. In home deco markets, we are seeing the same trends towards customisation, demands for shorter lead-times, and more frequent design changes – just like in fashion, where these trends have been a catalyst for printing digitally. Visitors saw for themselves how the JAVELIN digital textile printer, with its maximum 600 m2/hour output speed and fine-tuned inks, provided the perfect platform for addressing these demands, thanks especially to its repeatable high quality and flexibility. Live demonstrations showed precision when printing blotches, geometrics, fine lines and smooth gradations.” SPGPrints’ Archer Print Head Program provides a two-and-a-half-year guarantee on the print heads in combination with the use of accredited inks. JAVELIN can use reactive, acid or disperse inks manufactured by SPGPrints for optimum performance of the printer on different fabrics. Other benefits of the new JAVELIN include its stability for printing large quantities, and efficiency for samples and test-runs. Manufacturers recognised the printer’s

SPGPrints also showed Special Screens for wallcovering at Heimtextil 2017

SPGPrints 3200mm JAVELIN premieres at Heimtextil 2017

potential to accelerate time-to-market and bring about end-to-end supply chain cost-reductions. Home deco beyond textiles SPGPrints also unveiled details of the new 700mm-wide PIKE700 Decor digital inkjet printer for laminates, which employs the same Archer technology as the PIKE printer for textiles and the JAVELIN printers. The PIKE700 Decor printer for laminates uses a central impression cylinder with up to ten colours to apply graphic images, textures and protective coatings to laminates. These can be used to create a wide variety of effects including - among others - stone, wood, brick and ceramic tiles, to enable maximum creativity, cost-effectively. A wide range of protective coatings may be applied for gloss, matt, satin and silk effects, enhancing the printed images. Textures may also be added to create additional verisimilitude to furniture and other surfaces. The PIKE printer delivers the digital advantages of cost-effective short runs, fast changeovers, minimal waste, fast time-to-market, streamlined logistics, reduced stock-holding and warehousing. Rotary screen printing remains an essential process for producing relief effects, especially for wallcovering. For this market, SPGPrints presented its SpecialScreen range of nickel rotary screens that combine high mesh-count with a large hole size, enabling fine and detailed printing with large paste particles, without risk of blockage. Samples showed how the SpecialScreen excelled at reproducing smooth tonal gradations, fine

outline printing, as well as puff, tactile, glitter and reflective effects that offer enhanced aesthetic and sensual appeal. The SpecialScreen programme, like all SPGPrintsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; screens, offers high strength, durability, stability at high print speeds and the potential for high mesh-counts, thanks to their electroformed-nickel composition. SPGPrints also unveiled its new inline embossing calender unit, for applying three-dimentional effects to PVC-coated substrates with mimal waste of material and time. Perfect embossing register with the printed design is achieved within 30 metres of the start of production and maintained throughout the run. In addition, the calender is designed for fast setup times. Embossing rollers can be exchanged within four minutes, and synchronised for production without technical expertise, thanks to a fully automatic positioning system. Bas Hoijtink, commercial manager industrial applications, SPGPrints comments: â&#x20AC;&#x153;We received much interest from wallcovering manufacturers from all over the world, especially South and East Asia, Turkey and Iran. They were captivated by the creative possibilities and quality assurance offered by the SpecialScreen range in combination with the bestLEN laser engraver. And, with the addition of the embossing calender to the machine programme, they saw in SPGPrints a partner capable of providing a lean, productive manufacturing solution at every step in the workflow.â&#x20AC;?

Kelheim Fibres breaks new ground in innovation management

The awards ceremony (from left to right): Walter Roggenstein (R&D manager, Kelheim Fibres), the finalists the Deinböck family, Dr. Jörg Dörrstein, Dr. Albert Solleder, Christina Pop (representing Dr. Pettrak), Sebastian Kehrer and Matthew North (Commercial Director, Kelheim Fibres)

By organising a competition for new ideas on the subject “100% cellulose fibres – re-thought” viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres has broken new ground in innovation management. The competition was part of the start-up contest “Plan B – Biomass. Business. Bavaria“ organised by BioCampus Straubing under the patronage of the Bavarian State Secretary for Economic Affairs Franz Josef Pschierer. “In R&D we don’t just rely on receiving ideas for new products or new applications in our dreams, but we proceed in a focussed and methodical way”, says Walter Roggenstein, R&D Manager at Kelheim Fibres. “For us, this competition in cooperation with Biocampus Straubing was an attempt to boost our innovation process and to open it to beyond the boundaries of our company.” Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres, adds: “The competition was not only about specific ideas – we have seen completely new conceptual approaches and we have gained contacts in industry sectors and application areas formerly unknown to us. And by opening the process to outsiders we could avoid the risk of operational blindness.” Kelheim was extremely pleased with the results of this experiment, partiularly with the broad spectrum of ideas: More than 20 different proposals - ranging from very simple, clearly defined application ideas to visionary future

products - were submitted. Equally varied were the people behind these ideas, from school pupils to experienced tradespeople to academics. The winner of the competition, Dr. Jürgen Pettrak from “Straubinger Entwässerung und Reinigung” (local wastewater authorities), was rewarded with prize of 2.500 Euro. His idea was the use of filters made of functionalised viscose fibres as a fourth clarification stage in wastewater treatment plants, to filter out the increasing amount of endocrine substances found in wastewater. These endocrine substances find their way into into the water due to the growing use of drugs in human medicine as well as in large-scale farming and, if not filtered out, they may finally affect our genetic material. But Kelheim Fibres was also excited by the other proposals, which concern the use of viscose fibres in environmentally sound yet at the same time tailor-made wound care, in semi-finished products with printed electrical circuits, eco-friendly felt pens, panels of pressed straw for construction applications and an idea for a regional marketing for regionally produced fibre products. These ideas were awarded further prizes. “We will not put these great suggestions away in a drawer”, promises Walter Roggentein. “I am convinced that some of these ideas will lead to projects and finally to new products. For us, the success of this competition will lead to a further opening-up of our innovation process – on the inside as well as on the outside.”

Sustainability is the core concept for the finishing range by CHT Haroon Ali Khan Haroon Ali Khan Managing Director of CHT Pakistan

Haroon Ali Khan, Managing Director of CHT Pakistan, shared his views with Textalks International at GTex Global Expo, 21 January 2017. While talking about the exhibited new range of finishing products, he pointed out that the focus was to introduce the new concept of sustainable finishes. Rather than focusing on an individual product we have focused on introducing a blend of products with a unique effect. Haroon told CHT has also worked in the digital printing sector, more specifically the pigment digital printing with the focus on the sustainability. He said that CHT has already introduced the new ideas of sustainability to the global market, now CHT experts are focused on introducing more sustainable products for the global textile market. CHT is also working on the step-by-step elimination of products that are not sustainable in all aspects which could be either non-economical, non-ecologically or socially not suitable. With this consideration, CHT has worked a lot to introduce new sustainable products and we will be continue our efforts in this direction. While preceding the discussion, Haroon added; we have launched a new concept of four Aces for bleaching and it is also based on the idea of sustainability. At the same time, CHT is working on more products in different sigments. Joining hands with many denim garments producers like Levis are our major

achievements in terms of introducing the products to the market. Now the company is working on further enactments keeping sustainability as their focus. While talking about his new range of finishes for lawn/cotton, Haroon told that the new range is witnessing a very good response from the manufacturers like So Kamal, Sapphire and Ittehad mills who appreciate the product. On the other hand, the local processors, who have a great influence on the market, are expected to show a good response to this range in terms of introducing the new products. From the local market of Karachi, Al-Karam and Gull Ahmed gave a good response and Mecko liked the idea and appreciated our efforts. Referring to a question, he also added, CHT is trying not to deviate the standard pricing criteria of the market. This will help to justify the finishing cost for customers. For this new finishing line, the recipes are designed in a way that they can help to deal with different issues, hence are economical. At times where the prices are high, one can see a prominent value added features to the product that will surely be appreciated by the market. While suggesting getting the most out of such exhibitions he said that proper and enhanced marketing would help such platform to groom as well as provide better exposure to the exhibiting companies.

80 years KARL MAYER Eight decades of innovation for the textile industrySeries of in-house innovation shows for business partners KARL MAYER, the market leader in the fields of warp knitting, warp preparation and machinery for technical textiles, will celebrate its 80-year anniversary this year. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We will organize various in-house shows for our business partners, giving them an insight into the future of textile development and production technology. Almost two years after the last ITMA we will show our next innovation steps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; responding to the challenges of digitization and conservation of resources,â&#x20AC;? says Arno GĂ¤rtner, KARL MAYERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CEO. Like no other company, KARL MAYER represents technical progress and successful partnerships. KARL MAYER constantly reinvents. In various locations, KARL MAYER will present its new textile developments covering trends like athleisure, and will show introduction of digitization into the textile industry value-chain by expanding the application of its new automation platform KAMCOSÂŽ 2. Sustainability is another important topic for the future. KARL MAYER will show answers with LEOÂŽ (Low Energy Option) and PROSIZEÂŽ, a sizing system that will save up to 20 percent resources in fresh water, size agent and waste water. During the last two years KARL MAYER invested approximately EUR 40 million into their various worldwide locations: â&#x20AC;˘ New production facilities at KARL MAYER ROTAL in Italy â&#x20AC;˘ A new Development Center for double-bar raschel technology at NIPPON MAYER in Fukui, Japan. It will be opened officially with an in-house show from 1 to 3 March 2017. â&#x20AC;˘ At KARL MAYERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headquarters in Germany a new 12,000 square meter assembly hall and a new Core Competence Center for Parts and Components. Visitors will be able to see this in July 2017. Then KARL MAYER will also set up nine newly developed machines for an in-house exhibition organized for business partners, plus a separate open day for the public. Furthermore KARL MAYER (China) will show new developments to their business partners in autumn of this year at their factory in Changzhou, China. KARL MAYER is looking forward to welcome their guests to the various events. For more information go to www.80yearskarlmayer.com

Takashi Asako CEO Pegasus admires the potential of Pakistani market

Takashi Asako - CEO Chairman of Pegasus Sewing Machine PTE. LTD. Singapore

While visiting Pakistan for the first time, in GTex exhibition, Takashi Asako CEO Chairman of Pegasus Sewing Machine PTE. LTD. Singapore shared his noble thoughts with the officials of TEXtalk International. He said that the textile market is witnessing a high demand for automation and is demanding digitalization of the machines and processing. For this reason, we are concentrating on the development of softwareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for these automated machines; he added. Pegasus owns a number of software that are used by customers from different countries of the world. The companies from different parts of the world are using the software of Pegasus for high-quality sewing and processing. High demand for automation is what we are focused on now; Said was so by Asako. While replying to a question about his experience at GTex Expo Karachi, he said that so many visitors are meeting them and He is glad to see major companies at the expo. He also told that this is for the first time he visited Pakistan and can see a massive potential in Pakistani market and for this reason, they are planning to introduce something to Pakistani market by the end of this year.

He also told, they are witnessing great response from the existing customers from all parts of the world and Pegasus customers are growing around the globe. He told us that most of the products brought to Pakistani market include knitting machines for undergarments and sport wear as most of the customers are from the knitwear industry of Pakistan. Pegasus is working with co-operation of brother companies and is working in the European market, besides Japan and America where some major companies are using Pegasus products. Now with the collaboration of jeans market of Pakistan, the Pegasus is planning to bring these advanced technologies to Pakistan. While talking about the past and success of the company Takashi Asako told us that the Pegasus basically belongs to Singapore and dealing with the middle east, Africa, Pakistan, India, and Srilanka etc. He also said that acquiring the TPP is one of the major issues faced by many companies. By the end of his discussion, he again appreciated the potential of Pakistani textile market which is growing as Chinese production market is shifting to other countries.

CHT Pakistan introduced new Finishing lines for Lawn/Cotton industry with a concept to sell the idea..

CHT booth at GTex Karachi 2017

With years of experience and expertise, CHT/BEZEMA is competitively providing the textile industry with top notch products that deal with textile finishing, textile care, construction, formulae and chemical products used in general industry. In the GTex Global Expo Karachi, CHT introduced a new concept of selling the ideas in textile industry, specifically for the designer lawn industry. CHT introduced their new range of textile finishing products, giving a new benchmark to the finishing line. While talking to Textalks International, the CHT Pakistan representative explained the new introduced combination of finishing for lawn industry. While talking about the products individually he said that the first finish is named as “Stay Fresh-Stay Comfortable” which is designed with the anti-microbial with freshness application. This finish is made with a combination of existing finishes. While taking about its long lasting properties it is refreshing, hygienic and comes with hydrophilic and neutralizing properties with long-term efficiency and soft touch. The basic concept of value added properties is to help deal with the sweating issues even if you are wearing it for more than 2-3 days. These valued properties of this product also have wash stability for up to 50 washes. Green Comfort was the next finish introduced by CHT on this event. The main features of this finish include skin moisturizing and ski soothing with the durability of wash and long lasting effect. The products are formulated by using natural ingredients of silk protein and aloe Vera. The silk protein in the product will have a varying impact on the varying body fractions while the pure aloe Vera is used with a particular recipe. The pure contents used can be testified from any certified lab. The properties of this finish exist up

to 20 washes. Next, comes the “Classic Comfort Finish” which is a far better version of the finish available in market. Specifically designed for smooth hand feel, the finish is human friendly and designed with the lowers as free percentage of formaldehyde. The idea of these improvements was based on the recent report published by the European Association talking about the drastic impact of formaldehyde on human body. This finish comes with the properties of feather soft and ultimate smoothness in additional to durability of wash and easy risen and iron facilities. “Elegant Finish” is another type of finish that is made to enhance the lawn quality. It is designed with the ability to perform better than the existing finish in market with elegant flowing touch. Smart.. Cool smart is the new avenue for the lawn industry. Generally, the lawn manufacturers use finishers that hide the actually properties of a fabric and as a result, it impacts the actual hydrophilic properties of the cotton. But the Cool smart finish comes with pure hydrophilic ides which retain and extends the natural properties of cotton, without compromising on very smooth handle. Much more like the Dry Fit idea of Nike that helps to keep the moisture out of your body with the wash stable properties. Replying to a question he added that these products are designed to deal with the need of compliance and the eradication of formaldehyde with the wash durability and high performance. The core concept behind this improved finishing line is the comfort of the user. It also mentioned that this concept is already used by the top fabric brands, internationally but CHT is the first one to introduce this concept to the local lawn industry.

Heimtextil 2017 Durst unveils digital home textiles portfolio with pigment application by Probo

Spotlight was on high-performance Alpha 330 inkjet printer with universal Greentex pigment ink for more economical home textile production

Durst, the manufacturer of advanced digital production technologies, unveiled its extensive Alpha Series portfolio with multi-pass inkjet printing systems for the digital production of home textiles and fashion at Heimtextil 2017 in Hall 6 at Stand C16. Depending on what they are used for, Alpha printing systems offer printing widths from 190 to 330 cm and can be configured with up to 8 colors and 64 Alpha-S printheads. With a native resolution of 600 dpi and printing speeds of up to 620 lm/h, they boast 24/7 industrial-scale production capacities, and can be used directly and with tremendous flexibility. The various samples and applications produced by Probo and on display at the trade fair stand will show visitors exactly what these systems can do. In February 2016, the Dutch web-to-print supplier installed a high-performance Alpha 330 inkjet printing in its machine park in Dokkum in order to be able to offer home textiles and accessories alongside its existing soft signage portfolio. The great thing is that clients are able to order their printed items – from

yard goods to large volumes – directly in the Probo online website. Orders received by 4:30 p.m. can even be shipped the next day. This efficiency is due not just to the performance of the Alpha Series and digital workflow, but also to the Greentex pigment ink developed by Durst that require no pre- or post-treatment when used with standard materials such as cotton or polyester. This makes the production processes much shorter and considerably more cost-effective regardless of the size of the print run. The Durst Textile Printing team at the trade fair stand provided information about these and other options for the Alpha Series such as intelligent feeder systems that adapt automatically to the various textile materials and roll circumferences. The visitors took deep interest in the Durst’s products.

Demsan & Zakaria Trading - The ultimate success story

Tuncay Demirci of Demsan with Farooq Zakaria at GTex Karachi

Keeping the traditions serving with excellence in quality and consistency is what Demsan is. Demsan in a joint venture with Zakaria Trading International sold 50 Machines since their collaboration. While talking to TEXtalks International, Farooq of Zakaria Trading International said that Zakaria Trading started their business venture with Demsan in 2013. He updated that they both have sold 50 Demsan machines in Pakistani market. During 3 years of cooperation with Demsan, Zakaria trading had several successful customers and many of them are making repeat orders. He shared his experience that the customers are happy and satisfied. Tuncay Demirci, the sales manager of Demsan is regularly visiting Pakistani customers to provide them complete support and after sales service. While talking to Textalks International he shared his views and thanked Zakaria Trading for their hospitality, hard work and Good Cooperation. He also added that he wants to increase the types of machine in Pakistani market. He also added that the quality of machines of Demsan are like that of machines from Europe while their price ranges between Chinese and European market and this is beneficial for the company to sell their machines in market. He added Demsan is selling machines to more than 25 countries till now. He said that in their 39 years of business they have had a good experience, specifically in fabric finishing sector. Farooq Zakaria added to the discussion that the key customers for Demsan machines, in Pakistani market, are from Denim industry, named as Indigo textile, Soorty Enterprises, and also Rajby who just finalized 10 Demsan machines with Zakaria Trading. The repeat orders from these customers show their trust on the quality, satisfaction, and happiness with Demsan machinery. Farooq also added that besides Denim the Demsan has customers from other market sectors. The most prominent names include Union Fabrics & Rizwan enterprises and in Punjab, they have customers naming Sapphire and Faisal weaving who are using Demsan machinery since long and are happy and satisfied with them.

VEGA 3180S by Atexco A boost to small Start-ups

VEGA 3180S by Atexco at GTex Karachi

Farooq Sitara International brought some of the really innovative products to textile industry especially in the printing sector. While talking to TEXtalks International, the Managing Director Farooq Sitara addressed the main features of the newly launched machine VEGA 3180S. The machine was presented in the GTex Global expo in Karachi. VEGA 3180S is a high-speed industrial textile digital printing machine that performs 24 hours printing with a daily output of 1000 to 3500m2. Core properties of the machines include its vivid color and exquisite sharpness that give ultimate charity. The machine is suitable for digital printing of all type fabric. Core mechanical features of the machine include a linear motor rail beam with world’s top brand components. It works with a standalone electric control cabinet and ink supply system. The machine is highly efficient in reducing print head clogging because of its degassing system. The higher ink concentration helps it to be more economical and is joined with the intelligent output and efficient ink

consumption management. Farooq Sitara Said that; “we launched digital printing machines with the first customer was Olympia fabric and now we have sent them more machines and the relationship is growing in coming days as well”. Eight machines are already sold out of which four were done in GTex Lahore four months back. We are getting very positive response from the industry. It is designed for the individuals who are looking for an economical and innovative lawn printing for both large and small quantity of fabric. He added “it is highly appreciated in local as well as international market. The parts of machines are gathered from different major brands and the assembling was done in China. The major benefit of this machine is that it helps you do economical printing for small projects and the results are far much different. You can print thousands of colors on this machine. Big efforts for small startups, the VEGA 3180S seems to bring new trends in textile business in the national high quality fashion market segment.

Me & Joy Industrial Co. Ltd. expects more business opportunities in Pakistani market

Zaheer H. Metla and Me & Joy Industrial Co. Limited team at GTex Karachi

Working Since 1999 in the textile business industry, the Me & Joy Industrial Co. Limited is running successfully in all major textile markets of the world. Since 2005, the company started dealing with manufacturing of a variety of fabric including; Technical, Out-Door, Industrial Use, Cotton Wax, and Sports Wear. The company is working with an aim to provide supreme Quality Fabric at the highly competitive price with after sale service. With an extensive experience in all phases of manufacturing the company also offers a wide range of research and development facilities. Proud to have experienced designers, skilled craftsman and qualified engineers the company is

successfully fulfilling the expectations of its customers. Me & Joy is working with a mission of adding comfort to the style of living. Every single product of the company shows its commitment to quality. While talking to Textalks International, the owner said that the establishment is committed to delivering high-quality material in every product and strive to meet the required standards. While adding further he told that the enterprise is already working with leading fashion brands in Pakistan and have introduced a number of products including wax cotton fabric for sport and casual wear. He also showed his hope to have more business from Pakistani market due to the China-Pakistan Silk route.

What customers want and Pakistani spinners in particular Interview with Sivakumar Narayanan, Executive Vice President - Uster Technologies AG, Switzerland TEXtalks: What is the big idea behind the concept “Assistant Q”? Sivakumar Narayanan: “Assistant Q” – those who have visited the USTER booth at ITMA Asia + CITME 2016 or ITME 2016 they probably have seen that this is a big story. Today, there is a lot of information and data in front of our customers but there is no time to analyze it, there is no experience or knowledge to actually conclude the data and take some action out of it. So “Assistant Q” is trying to do both those things: Analyzing the data, taking USTER’s experience and knowledge and bring it into some conclusion that our customers can use and get some benefits out of it. In other words, it tries to bridge the gap between generating data and converting data into an action. “Assistant Q” is an embodiment of the USTER knowledge so we say; he is 65 years old, he is being educated at the USTER quality university and he will grow in knowledge because when he is an assistant he is also learning from the cases at the same time. So at the end of the day, he brings his knowledge but he is also gaining customer’s knowledge. Ultimately, we think that he provides benefits like translating data into tangible results for spinners. This is the essential idea behind “Assistant Q”. TEXtalks: What does sustainability and industry 4.0 mean to USTER? Sivakumar Narayanan: Everybody is hyping industry 4.0 and sustainability and all these topics. I will keep it simple. For USTER, both of these topics are related to one thing: How do we keep our customers more sustainable? How do we keep their profitability more sustainable? And how do we sustain their reputation? So, for us industry 4.0 and all these things are technologies that can be used but ultimately with a goal of somehow making a customer continuously successful. Sustainability is the same thing. It’s not about green and clean and all these stuff only, of course they also mean a lot to many people but for us it’s about our customers being substainably successful over the time.

TEXtalks: What are USTER’s main products and how important is the Pakistani market for your products? Sivakumar Narayanan: One of the things that I know about the Pakistani market is that this is indeed a market we are proud of. Every customer in that market has high expectations of us and given a lot of support for many, many years. In fact, our history goes back to seven decades in that market and we are also fortunate to have good people in our company through our agents SIMAG and Rauf Electronic, actually very experienced and competent people to keep customers satisfied and to get the best out for them. As far as products go, in fact the Pakistani market is one of those markets which take all of our products. But specifically these days, contamination is a big topic so we see a lot of USTER® fiber cleaning systems going to this market. The USTER® QUANTUM 3 is been very popular in that market since its introduction. In fact, the USTER® QUANTUM 3 is the most selling yarn clearer in Pakistan. So, those are the products moving fast into that market but recently of course USTER® TESTER 6 has started taking off. Pakistan is one of those markets that understand the idea of the Total Testing Center and spinners have trusted USTER to imagine and actually come up with something like this that has value for them. In some cases they are even replacing their old ones to go with a new USTER® TESTER 6 with its vision to fulfil total testing. TEXtalks: As an innovative company what are USTER’s goals in the coming years? Sivakumar Narayanan: Our customers know that we are continuously innovating. When customers come to visit USTER at exhibitions they experience something new and this won’t be any different in future. One of our focus areas will be the Total Testing Center. We will try to add more and more connectivity, knowledge and intelligence to the system and also customers experience so that the spinners are ultimately able to realize the benefits that we are talking about which is profitability, going as far as building up their market reputation.

Loepfe journey marked with many pioneer milestones and still to continue..

An Interview with Silvano Auciello Sales Director - Loepfe Brothers Ltd, Switzerland TEXtalks: Loepfe was established 60 years ago, so how was the journey for Loepfe to reach where they are today? Silvano Auciello: Loepfe was established in 1955 and you can see our journey was marked with many pioneer milestones. We started with our weft stop motions and then we shifted from solutions for weaving to solutions for the spinning mills. We moved from weft stop motions to yarn clearers and so introduced electronics into the textile world. We then moved on with other milestones such as thermocutters on up to full foreign matter detection for yarn clearers in which Loepfe was the pioneer for such solutions. The next steps were hairiness detection on our yarn clearers, online perfection monitoring and polypropylene detection. We have developed into a corporate management system that is close to an industry 4.0 solution. TEXtalks: What is the basic concept behind “BUILT TO SEE MORE”. Silvano Auciello: Loepfe has always believed in the optical assessment of the quality in either our weaving solutions or in spinning. Therefore our yarn clearers are always based on the optical assessment of the yarn quality which is where we see the link between inspecting the yarn, measuring the yarn visibly and thus enabling our customers to assess quality of the yarn with our optical system. TEXtalks: How do you see how Loepfe has changed over the last five years?

Silvano Auciello: Loepfe is very active in weaving with our division for weaving solutions. For over 40 years, we have had a division for spinning solutions with yarn clearers, yarn clearers for open end and mill monitoring. We have now moved on by adding a laboratory division. Over the last few years, we have been developing the idea to propose solutions in the laboratory as well. TEXtalks: How is Loepfe is working towards industry 4.0? Silvano Auciello: Our data collection system Millmaster TOP serves collecting quality data from our clearers and other devices, analyzing the data and making these data available in a cloud solution with worldwide access for our customers. TEXtalks: As an innovative company, what are Loepfe’s goals in the coming years? Silvano Auciello: In the coming years, we will work on a system which can check and monitor the yarn quality of the textile from the fiber to the yarn. TEXtalks: What are Loepfe’s main products and how important is the Pakistan market for your products? Silvano Auciello: At the moment, our main product is the YARNMASTER line. This not only provides yarn clearers for the winding machines but also yarn clearers for open end machines. Our Millmaster TOP is also a main product. These products are also sold in Pakistan which is one of the seven largest markets and has always been a very important market for Loepfe.

Declining cotton production in Pakistan United State Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) January report featured an increase in world cotton production, with the global figure rising 1.1 million bales to 105.3 million. Unfortunately, despite being an agrarian economy, we are the only country with such huge falls in cotton production. Pakistan is likely to miss its cotton production target this season as well, as farmers discouraged by persistently lower prices switch to sugarcane cultivation, with the setting up of more sugar mills in south Punjab. The lower output of the key cash crop of cotton may also made it tough for the government to achieve its annual economic growth target of 5.7% in the current fiscal year 2016-17. Consequently, Pakistan’s cotton imports to hold near record highs as output dwindles. At the beginning of current season, the Federal Committee on Agriculture had projected that farmers would plant cotton over an area of 3.009 million hectares and produce 14.101 million bales. The Cotton Crop Assessment Committee (CCAC), which met for its third meeting on 5th December, 2016, estimated production of only 10.542 million bales, noting 20% less area had been sown with cotton crop in Punjab due to price fall, lower returns and anticipated more rains that would hurt output. According to a statement issued by the Ministry of Textile Industry, Punjab will produce 6.903 million bales, Sindh 3.6 million bales, Balochistan 0.038 million bales and Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa 0.001 million bales. The highest cotton produce recorded so far was in 2004 registered 11,138 million bales while the nearest spike was in 2014 at 10,600. The year 2015 was the worst since 1998 as production fell to 7,000

million bales. The imminent affectee of discouraged cotton producers is the ginner who waits throughout the year for a bumper yield. The Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) is totally disappointed at the projected estimates. To them, 20,000 million bales will be at par not only with their needs but also for the country’s economy. Import of Cotton to Meet Demand The import of cotton, basic raw material of the textile industry, is essential as shortage would result in closure of spinning industry in Pakistan. Closure of spinning mills would cast multiple impacts on the economy of Pakistan, such as reduction in exports, large scale unemployment and worsening law and order situation in the country. The Senior Vice Chairman reminded that the Federal Minister for Finance had pointed out in his budget speech for 2016-17 that due to the failure of cotton crop in the previous fiscal year, GDP fell by about 0.5 percent. This year again the cotton crop has failed and alternative measures need to be taken. In early December, Pakistan lifted an ‘undeclared’ ban on imports of ginned cotton from India, pledging to strictly implementing all phytosanitary and other conditions governing the fibre’s imports on future incoming shipments via surface or sea. It is pertinent to mention that APTMA had strongly urged the government to lift unannounced ban on the import of Indian cotton through stopping the issuance of import permit by the Plant Protection Department. The real reason behind the ban was rising

Pakistan Cotton Production by Year 12,000

9,600

7,200

4,800

2,400

16 20

20 08

19 98

19 96

92 19

88 Year

86 19

19 78 19 80

74 19 76

72 19

19 66

19 60

1000 480 lb. Bales

Reports

Pakistan Cotton Production Annual Growth Rate 120%

Annual Growth Rate

80%

40%

-40%

19 6 19 0 1961 62 19 6 19 3 6 19 4 65 19 66 19 6 19 7 6 19 8 1969 7 19 0 7 19 1 7 19 2 7 19 3 1974 7 19 5 7 19 6 7 19 7 7 19 8 7 19 9 8 19 0 81 19 1982 1983 8 19 4 8 19 5 8 19 6 8 19 7 1988 8 19 9 9 19 0 9 19 1 9 19 2 9 19 3 9 19 4 9 19 5 9 19 6 9 19 7 9 19 8 9 20 9 0 20 0 0 20 1 0 20 2 0 20 3 0 20 4 0 20 5 0 20 6 0 20 7 0 20 8 09 20 1 20 0 1 20 1 1 20 2 1 20 3 1 20 4 15 20 16

-80%

Year

border tensions between the two neighbours which prompted Islamabad to impose the ban on Indian cotton. All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (Aptma) Sindh-Balochistan Zone had appealed to the government to remove 4% import duty on raw cotton. The local crop estimates lag behind the requirement of Pakistan’s industry which is not less than 14.5 million bales at the moment. Since it is clear that the local crop is short of the requirements of the industry, it was necessary that timely action be taken so that the exports of the country do not suffer any further. It would not have been possible for the Pakistan’s textile industry to bear the additional burden of 4% import duty and compete in the export market against countries, which have a lower cost of raw cotton due to local availability without import incidentals. Zahid Mazhar, Senior Vice Chairman, All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), said that in the wake of successive failures of the cotton crop, the government should take supportive measures to meet the shortage of cotton, like removal of 4 percent duty and 1 percent income tax on the import of cotton. In the recently announced Textile Package, to meet textile industry’s demands under the Prime Minister Trade Enhancement Incentives, sales tax and customs duty on import of cotton is abolished (rest of the details of the Textile Package are covered in a separate report). Identified Problems & Remedies National Food Security and Research Minister Sikandar Hayat Khan Bosan thinks that Cotton Research Institutes and the cotton crop should be under supervision of the Ministry of National Food Security and Research to achieve the annual production target of 20 million bales. Senator Mohsin Leghari said cotton crop was an agriculture product

and it should be included in the ministry of NFSR. The cabinet committee on restructuring has already rejected such summary but Bosan vowed to send a request to the Prime Minister again. Cotton growers emphasised the need for providing quality seeds, keeping input prices at affordable levels and price intervention by the government in such a way that farmers were able to reap the benefits. Erratic weather, Genetically Modified (GM) seed and major pest outbreak caused the lower production last year. The industry as well as farmers disagree that climate change and erratic rainfall can be blamed for the cotton produce crisis. While they seek better seeds and better price, they remain extremely doubtful about outdated and untested genetically modified seed. The trend raises questions about Pakistan’s seriousness to evaluate GM or BT (Bacillus Thuriengisis) seeds from the perspective of its peculiar climate, soil and fertilisers etc. Sans stringent GM seed evaluation criteria along with incentive to the farmers, the produce will increasingly become unpredictable and vulnerable. Moreover, local research on cotton seeds has been a crucial guiding star until funding crunch hit it hard. The ugly reality is that the existing GM seed is too weak against the pest and worms, which have evolved strong immunity to its toxins. The textile industry secretary suggested developing a scientific model for production estimates and forecasting that could assess accurate, reliable and more authentic crop size. The secretary also initiated steps for creating awareness of the standard bale size and proper cotton packaging in the electronic and print media to ensure strict compliance. He also called for developing an effective production plan with measures aimed at enhancing the sowing area and crop productivity.

Textile package to revive declining exports Government of Pakistan has announced, claimed to countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest export package, a new Rs. 180 billion package to shore up its falling exports, including textiles, after prolonged criticism by the industry, exporters and political parties. 18-month plan envisages abolition of customs duty and sales tax on import of cotton, man-made fibre other than polyester and the textile machinery. Before going in to the details of the much-awaited Textile Package, let us look at some of the headlines in the course of past few months.

Highlights of the Package The package envisages abolition of customs duty and sales tax on import of cotton. Similarly, customs duty on man-made fibre (other than polyester) and sales tax on import of textile machinery has also been abolished. Under the package, duty draw back rates for textile garments would be 7%; textile made ups 6%; processed fabric 5%; Yarn and grey fabric 4%; sports goods, leather and footwear 7% respectively. This package will continue for the period of 18 months from 1 January 2017 to 30 June 2018.

Textile sector wants textile package before yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s end December 9, 2016 by Pakistan Today

Part of the reason for the government coming out with the revival package is that overall exports including those of textiles - are stagnant at around $20 billion for the last four years, causing a severe balance of payments situation. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has been agitating for help to produce and export more. The APTMA suspended its agitation in October 2015. It had also demanded a reduction in the Rs170 billion additional taxes imposed by the government. The government had accepted three of APTMA's eight demands to help it grow production, introduce new technology,

All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) continues rant seeking textile package December 22, 2016 by The Express Tribune Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) urges government to announce long-awaited textile package December 28, 2016 by The Nation

shift to high-quality and innovative products to meet modern consumer tastes in Pakistan and abroad. For years, the industry had continued producing and exporting coarse clothes which were reprocessed abroad and sold after value addition. But, after wake-up calls by foreign competition, Pakistan's fashion industry has evolved now. It makes millions of dollars by selling to consumers in markets such as the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Middle East, France, the European Union and the US. Many of the demands by the industry have still remained unfulfilled. These include uninterrupted power supply, end of prolonged power outages, cheaper working capital and long-term credit for import of high-tech machinery to produce high-quality textiles, household linen and other products. Aims of the package • In order to raise exports, the government will reduce the cost of doing business and make the export-oriented industries competitive with regional countries. The bigger and older competitors include India and China while the new ones are Bangladesh and Vietnam. • It aims at fast-tracking the introduction of new technology and infrastructural modernisation of textiles and other industries. Fine Print Details Ministry of Textile Industry has already issued a notification “Duty Drawback of Taxes Order 2016-17”. Some of the key points are summarised here and see following link or scan the QR code for access to the complete notification. • It extends to the whole of Pakistan including Export Processing Zones. • It shall come into force at once. The duty drawbacks under this Order shall be allowed for exports GDs filed on or after 16th January, 2017 to 30th June, 2017. • Further, duty drawback of taxes under this Order shall be allowed for exports GSs filed on or after 1st July, 2017 to 30th June, 2018 if the exporter would achieve an increase of 10% or more in exports over 2016-17 exports. The procedures for applying for claims of shipments made during 2017-18 will be notified in the month of July, 2017.

Warning Exports Pakistan shipmenys decline on demand, energy shortages Pakistan Export Yoy

0 -6.8 -20

2005 2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

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season, largely accounted for by a decrease in imports by China.

• The drawback shall be available only to manufacturing-cum exporting units. • The units availing the drawback shall be registered with the Ministry of Textile Industry. • The unit availing the drawback shall be a registered sole proprietor, partnership or a company, and shall be a member of a textiles association registered with the Directorate of Trade Organizations, Ministry of Commerce. • The units shall furnish data and any information related to its operations, domestic sales, accounts and exports as and when required by the Ministry of Textile Industry. • Each textiles association shall be responsible for certifying the authenticity of information provided by the exporting units pertaining to application documents for claims under this Order. The Association concerned shall exercise due diligence to ensure authenticity of the documents. Declining Exports: Sate of the Industry The downslide in textile sector witnessed in 2015 was largely arrested in 2016 with yarn and fabric being the only sub-sectors where decline still continues. Indecisiveness of the government on proposed textile package created uncertainty impeding investment plans. According to the data compiled from government statistics, the textile exports of six major items declined by $363 million to $9.888 billion in Jan-Nov 2016, compared to $10.251 billion in the same period of 2015. During the same period, cotton yarn exports decreased $228 million and cotton fabric by $155

million. Cumulative decline in exports of these two items amounts to $383 million that is $20 million higher than the total decline in textile exports. This in other words means that the exports in value-added sectors increased, though only nominally. In the first 11 months of 2015, cotton yarn export was $1.431 million that declined to $1.103 million during the corresponding period of 2016. Cotton fabric exports were down from $2.126 billion to $1.971 billion in 2016. Knitwear exports during Jan-Nov 2015 were $2.187 decreasing nominally to $2.186 in calendar year 2016. Bed wear exports however increased from $1.858 billion to $1.890 in 2016, towels exports declined from $694.7 million in 2015 to $691.5 million in 2016. The exports of readymade garments increased from $1.955 billion in 2015 to $2.047 billion in 2016. Pakistani Prime Minister had assured the textile sector of incentives in September 2015, but nothing was done for over a year. He again promised the textile sector in October 2016 that the textile package would be announced soon. No notification has been released in this regard. This has created uncertainty among textile exporters, who cannot quote their best prices. They would miss a big opportunity at the largest global fair on home textiles which is to be held in Frankfurt in the second week of January. Textile sector, like the preceding five years, did not invest in balancing and modernisation in 2016 that further deteriorated its spinning and weaving machines. The eroding competitiveness of the sector

was not only because of high cost of doing business in Pakistan but also due to 10 years old machinery. The older machines consume 40 percent more power than the latest basic textile machines. New machines produce more with only 33 percent of the workforce needed in older machines. The cost of energy came substantially down in 2016. The textile industry in Punjab was completely dependent on state supplied 18 hours per day of uncertain power and average six hours natural gas supply during summer in 2015. During acute power shortages, most of the millers had to run their diesel generators that produced costly power. In 2016 they were assured 24/7 electricity at an average of Rs12 per unit and 24/7 RLNG for their generators that produced electricity at an average of Rs10 per unit. That was a vast improvement, but the dilemma for 70 percent of the industry based in Punjab is that the energy cost in other provinces is substantially lower. They produce electricity from natural gas that is 35 percent cheaper than RLNG. Another drawback faced by the textile sector in 2016 was sharp rise in textile imports. Textile imports have crossed $3 billion. The imports include raw cotton that is usual except for the fact that this year the imports were higher due to low cotton output in Pakistan. Indian yarn has also made substantial inroads in the country. Even the readymade garments imports have increased â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all at the expense of the domestic textile sector. It was the worst year for cotton crop in the last 25 years, as the country harvested less than 10 million bales. The industry coped with the shortage by importing bales which were available globally at low cost. Bureaucratic hurdles impeded cotton imports from neighbouring India. The regulations that were invoked after tensions with India increased hurt our domestic industry, but were a blessing for Indian millers as the glut brought down cotton price in India. Going forward, the basic textile industry has realised that its survival lies not only in technology upgrade but also in value-addition so they consume yarn and fabric in their own concern. Though the larger textile houses are on target in this regard, the comparatively small units are rich in ideas but short on resources. Furthermore, due to the decline in textile exports, the non-performing loans of the textile sector have reached to Rs 197 billion nearly 26.3 per cent of the total advances of Rs 748.8 billion to the sector, latest data of the State Bank of Pakistan said Response to the Package APTMA Chairman Aamir Fayyaz has welcomed the Rs 180 billion package announced by the prime

minister to boost exports. He also appreciated the role of Punjab Chief Minister Shahbaz Sharif, Finance Minister Ishaq Dar, Commerce Minister Khurram Dastgir, Minister for Water and Power Khawja Asif, Special Assistant to the Prime Minister on Revenue Haroon Akhtar, Special Assistant to the PM and Chairman Board of Investment Dr Miftah Ismail this regard. APTMA Punjab Chairman Syed Ali Ahsan added that the issue of energy availability had been resolved to an extent but the issue of high cost of energy was yet to be resolved, and urged the government to provide electricity at Rs 7/kWh and gas, including RLNG, at Rs 600 per MMBTU inclusive of GIDC - to the textile industry across the country. Korangi Association of Trade & Industry's (Kati) president, Masood Naqi said that though many of our concerns have been addressed with the announcement of the package, some measures such as infrastructural reforms and restoration of the industry and exports sector's confidence, are yet be initiated. The Senior Vice President Hyderabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry Turab Ali Khoja also welcomed export incentive package adding that this package would help in increasing the exports which had been on decline for last many years. Ali Salman of PRIME Institute, an independent free market think tank, says that the real issues underlying the decline of textiles and broadly export sector are: low productivity owing to poor quality of human resource at design and quality stages, uncertainty in energy supply, an inward looking protective tariff regime, artificial support from the government and a general lack of competitiveness in the business firms. In July 2016, the finance minister confidently announced that exports will receive a boost with zero-rated facility for five export sectors. The exports actually declined even in last six months, when compared on a month-to-month basis with 2015. The zero-rated facility proved ineffective in boosting exports. From 2005 to 2008 Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s government spent Rs50 billion in research and development of subsidies for the textile sector. Hardly any money was actually spent on research and development and most of it ended up at a price transfer the buyers benefited at the cost of tax payers. Hence, Mr. Salman says that the Rs180 billion package will help to delay our attention from realistic diagnosis and is a part of the problem, not the solution!

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Ecotec Cotton gets even smarter Marchi & Fildi, a leading Italy based manufacturer of natural, artificial and synthetic fibre yarns, has received the Tessile e Salute certification promoted by the Italian Ministry of Health for its Ecotec smart cotton. Ecotec yarn is made in Italy and produced by an exclusive traceable and certified production process that transforms pre-dyed textile clippings into a 100% cotton yarn with record savings in water and energy consumption, according to the manufacturer. According to the company, Ecotec is the new generation of smart cotton. Thanks to the exclusive Marchi & Fildi process, the redundant remnants from the fashion systemâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garment production are recovered and transformed into Ecotec yarns, making it possible to use less resources while maintaining the quality standards. Measuring the efficiency of the process, the company says it recorded proven metrics of up to 56.3% reduction on the greenhouse effect, up to 56.6% in energy savings, and up to 77.9% in water consumption throughout the complete process.

Sports and leisure shoes are the real trendsetters in the shoe sector, and new materials and designs are being developed all the time. And, according to machine builder Karl Mayer, the innovation cycles are largely influenced by double-bar raschel knitting technology (DR technology). These double needle bar warp knitting machines produce spacer fabrics that have become firm favourites for manufacturing the footwear worn by sports enthusiasts and fashion-conscious people alike. More and more designs are also being

produced, thanks to the use of piezo jacquard technology. As a result of an in-depth analysis of the requirements of the shoe and sports sectors, Karl Mayer, the leading warp knitting machinery manufacturer, has given new impetus to the trend for multi-coloured effects with its RDJ 5/1 machine, operating in gauge E 24. The machine features a specific technical configuration and the distance between the trick plates is just 2 mm. The distance between the knockover comb bars can generally be set at between 2 and 8 mm.

Intimissimi presents new Lace Bra Top with Lycra lace Italian apparel brand Intimissimi presents the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Lace Bra Top made with Lycra fibre lace. In addition to the expanded range of 20 bras, the three new designs include an ultra-light unpadded lace triangle bra with no underwiring, to a more structured bra top. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Underwear and fashion have joined forces to create

the perfect match and femininity plays peek-a-boo with elegance in this new collection,â&#x20AC;? the company reports. Three sensual designs all feature a refined lace with Lycra fibre by Invista, one of the largest integrated producers of polymers and fibres. The lace is said to join feminine elegance with extraordinary elastic performance for a delicate feel and perfect wearability, according to the manufacturer.

Whats New

Double needlebar warp knitting for show fabric

Lectra’s latest fashion PLM solution

Lectra, a world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, receives a glittering result in WhichPLM’s recent benchmark evaluation for the newest version of Lectra Fashion PLM which extends the scope from design and product development to production for retailers, manufacturers, and brands.

Providing greater visibility over fabric management and collection development processes, and guiding companies towards making the right decisions before production, Lectra’s extremely capable PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) platform scored at, or above, the industry average in all of the 43 functional areas WhichPLM measured, achieving the highest-scoring solution evaluated by WhichPLM to date.

Graphene-enhanced textile for better Thermal Comfort Directa Plus, a producer and supplier of graphene-based products for use in consumer and industrial markets, has for the first time worked together with Eurojersey, an Italian of high quality warp-knit technical fabrics under its Sensitive Fabrics brand, to produce a range of fabrics containing the company’s graphene-based products. The lamination of Sensitive Fabrics with Grafytherm functional membranes containing G+, distributed exclusively by Directa Textile Solutions, produces a technologically advanced fabric with unique thermal features: the presence of G+ graphene, which is highly thermally conductive, is said to allow a homogeneous distribution of the

heat produced by the human body in cold weather and a heat dispersion effect in hot weather. The result is an ideal thermal comfort level for every wearer, in any situation, which has not been accomplished with any other material, the company reports. The first R&D samples of these innovative technical textiles were presented by Eurojersey at ISPO, the sport and sportswear international trade fair held in Munich. According to the manufacturer, they are characterised, in addition to the thermal features, by high elasticity and a high grade of breathability, waterproofness and windproofness.

NASA’s Exo-Brake 'parachute' to help return small spacecraft to Earth NASA’s Exo-Brake will demonstrate a critical technology leading to the potential return of science payloads to Earth from the International Space Station through the deployment of small spacecraft in early 2017, NASA reports. An Exo-Brake is a tension-based, flexible braking device resembling a cross-parachute that deploys from the rear of a satellite to increase the drag. It is a de-orbit device that replaces the more complicated rocket-based systems that would normally be employed during the de-orbit phase of re-entry. “The Exo-Brake’s current design uses a hybrid system of mechanical struts and flexible cord with a control system that ‘warps’ the Exo-Brake – much like how the Wright brothers used warping to control the flight behaviour of their first wing design,” explained Marcus Murbach, principal investigator and inventor of the Exobrake device.

Socks that can replace shoes Responding to the needs of sports enthusiasts who are willing to embrace the idea of replacing traditional, heavy, specialised footwear with a lightweight, safe alternative, a European start-up called Skinners Technologies has developed a vegan and barefoot friendly concept, which is designed to offer a portable, comfortable, protective solution for a range of activities. The company ran a Kickstarter campaign this summer to fund the new patent-pending production technology, and has succeeded in raising US$ 654,557 on the original goal of $10,000 in 44 days, with almost 10,000 people supporting the project. Petr Prochazka, the company’s founder and CEO, is excited about the achievement. “Even in our wildest dreams we could not imagine it,” he said. “But after the Kickstarter finished and we celebrated, the next day we got back to work. And we haven’t stopped until now.

Recycled carbon fibers for automotive applications The use of recycled carbon fibre nonwovens in new automotive applications is being planned for the Chery eQ1 electric vehicle. Chery and Adesso Advanced Materials, based in Wuhu, China, are teaming up with the UK’s ELG Carbon Fibre to work on the new components and the goal is to further reduce the weight of the eQ1 – which already makes extensive use of aluminium technology – through the selective use of recycled carbon fibre composites. The longer term intent is

to then apply the knowledge gained from these projects in Chery’s conventional vehicles. During 2016, ELG started the production of a range of nonwoven mats on a new production line which is specifically designed to process recycled carbon fibres. The mats are available in widths up to 2.7 metres at a wide range of fibre areal weights and targeted at OEMs in the transportation sector seeking cost effective alternatives to virgin carbon fibre for vehicle lightweighting.

Polartec launches MtnLogic alpine workwear brand Polartec, a leading provider of innovative textile solutions, has launched MtnLogic, a top-of-the-mountain apparel brand, built in collaboration with alpine climbers and guides. As a textile solutions provider and development partner, Polartec worked with Whittaker and the guides at RMI Expeditions to develop a full range of

apparel solutions. The result of the unique and guide-driven process is a pure expression of alpine workwear, according to the manufacturer. Polartec products range from lightweight wicking and cooling fabrics, to insulation and weather protection textiles, and are utilised by leading consumer brands, the US military and other global militaries, flame resistance, workwear, and contract upholstery markets.

The Dyneema® Project develops a revolutionary alpine jacket Acclaimed technical apparel designer Conroy Nachtigall was commissioned by The Dyneema® Project to develop an alpine jacket of tomorrow with Dyneema® Composite Fabric. The short documentary ‘Sending It’ covers the “Wow!” response when the jacket – the strongest and lightest ever made – is tried by some of the big names living in Canadian extreme sports capital Squamish. As a fabric component, Dyneema® technology was first applied to sailcloth for the winning yacht of

America’s Cup 1992. Since then, Dyneema® Composite Fabrics have been engineered with a whole range of different properties (breathability, colors, solar reflectivity, various sensor and telecommunication abilities, etc.) and for many different applications (airships, ultra-light hiking equipment, heart valves, flexible circuitry, etc.). Currently, Dyneema® Composite Fabrics are spearheading a revolution in the performance sports apparel industry.

Poland’s Inovatica develops biotextile T-shirt Polish company Inovatica has developed an innovative T-shirt fitted with bio-monitoring capacities. The biotextile product allows to perform electrocardiography (EKG) on the patient wearing it. Senior company representatives told Innovation in Textiles the project consisted of developing such a bio-monitoring system that could be integrated with the T-shirt in a way that would make it possible to wash and clean it, and use it in a regular way. The product should also allow to record the electrical activity of a patient’s heart with the use of electrodes placed on their skin. The product’s functionalities were tested by cardiologists from the Medical University of Lodz, while engineers from the Lodz University of Technology were in charge of developing a textronics solution that allowed Inovatica to merge the textile products with EKG sensors.

technology May 08-12, 2017 Venue: Hamburg Messe, Hamburg, Germany

Domotex asia/CHINAFLOOR The leading flooring trade exhibition March 21-23, 2017 Venue: New International Expo Centre Pudong, Shanghai, China.

ICTC 2017 International Conference on Textile and Clothing March 24-25, 2017 Venue: University of Management and Technology, Lahore

GTex Global Expo Faisalabad An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo March 27-29, 2017 Venue: National Textile University, Faisalabad

Index 2017 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition April 4-7, 2017 Venue: Geneva - Switzerland.

Igatex Karachi 2017 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition April 26-29, 2017 Venue: Expo Centre Karachi, Pakistan

FESPA 2017 Largest exhibition for wide format, digital, screen and textile print

Techtextil 2017 International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens May 09-12, 2017 Venue: Messe Frankfurt, Germany

GTex Global Expo Lahore An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo August 11-13, 2017 Venue: Expo Center, Lahore.

DPS World 2017 Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition October 20-22, 2017 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

Shanghaitex 2017 The 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 27-30, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain

textalks.com/category/events.