TEXtalks International - July/August 2017 by TEXtalks International

July/August 2017

60 years of satisfaction

Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Saba Noor Alexandros Ali Khan Farooq Malik Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Mohammad Ahmed Mohammad Khan Abdul Haseeb Layouts Faizan Khan Circulation Incharge Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

Budget 2017-18, the impact on textile sector; Techtextil sets new visitor and exhibitor records; FESPA print expo Proposed on 26th of May 2017, the amount of budget of Pakistan is Rs. 5, 104 billion. The development expenditure for next year will be Rs. 1,001 billion, 40% higher than the Rs. 715 billion allocations last year. Previously, the inflation was about 12% from 2008 to 13. In current year, inflation is expected to be around 4.3%. Exports during the first ten months of the current year have shown an overall decrease of 1.28% compared to 7.8% decline during the same period last year. The government has associated this problem to timely support to exporters in shape of a comprehensive package of Rs.180 billion in January 2017 and commitment of the exporters. The major beneficiary of the said package was assumed to be the textile industry. APTMA said that the budget 2017-18 has disappointed the textile industry as the government has not announced the implementation of the proposals given by the industry. Moving further in this regard the APTMA authority demanded further support from the government. The inattention of the authorities has led to the point where the Pakistan had lost a prominent percentage of shares for textile exports in the global market. With a loss of about 23%, from 2.2% to 1.7%, the situation is raising questions for the

trade and economic policy makers and the government of Pakistan. It also unfolds the latest arrangement on the restoration of sustainability and growth of the textile industry, prepared by APTMA. On the other hand, Techtextil sets new visitor and exhibitor records with user fairs of high-tech textile. Special â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Living in Spaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; exhibition of Techtextil recorded over 33,670 visitors from 104 countries who made their way to Techtextil from 9 to 12 May 2017. A new record was also set on the exhibitor side with 1,477 companies from 55 countries taking part in the two fairs. The concurrent Texprocess, Leading International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials, attracted 312 exhibitors from 35 countries and 13,718 visitors from 109 countries. The visitors at Texprocess also checked the products and services at the Techtextil. Other focused areas included; Textile clothing and technology, Meditech, mobi-tech, sport-tech, cloth-tech, and apparel shows. FESPA Dare to Print Different, the largest printing expo witnessed a large number of visitors from around the globe. Occupying 10 halls with specially assigned zones for digital, screen and textile printing the event was successful at Hamburg Messes and became a biggest ever edition of the global print.

TEXNews

Cover Story – BIANCALANI srl

Happenings

Corporate Highlights

Reports Outlook for Digital Textile Printing

Budget 2017-18 & The Textile Sector

Italian Textile Machinery - An overview and links with Pakistan

What’s New…

TEX Events

ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY ON SAVIOCONE WINDERS FOR PROCESSING MOST DEMANDING PRODUCTS:

SINGLE CORE YARNS, DUAL CORE YARNS See page 40

News

Pakistan lost 23pc shares in world market

APTMA

In the massive blow to exports, Pakistan had lost a prominent percentage of shares for textile exports in the global market. With a loss of about 23%, from 2.2% to 1.7%, the situation is raising questions for the trade and economic policy makers and the government of Pakistan. It also unfolds the latest arrangement on the restoration of sustainability and growth of textile industry, prepared by APTMA.

regional competitors are performing better than Pakistan. It showed how the Vietnam has been ranked first by showing a growth of about 107% in textile and clothing exports, followed by Bangladesh with the growth of 64% in the exports. Likewise, India has shown a growth of 31% and Sri Lanka with 20% growth whereas; Pakistan is still in the red zone with a negative growth of 11%.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The investment in textile and clothing massively declined by 44% in 2016-17 on account of which, the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile production capacity has got impaired by 30-35% due to which 150 industrial units have become non-functional resulting in 30% unemployment. More shockingly, the textile industry of Pakistan lost 15 percent technological edge advantage over competitors.â&#x20AC;?

APTMA also pointed out the government by saying that the bilateral trade agreements meaning by that free trade agreement (FTAs) finalized with various countries is faulty and failed to provide the level playing field to the real stake holders, and export- oriented industrial sector. The defamed law and order situations in Pakistan had also lead to the limited militant activities and stopping the investors to visit Pakistan. Though in recent years the situations are improved there is a need to take steps at the governmental level to change the perception of Pakistan around the world so that more buyers and investors can visit Pakistan.

With the non-performance of the textile sector of Pakistan, due to the highest cost of doing business in the region, Pakistan is facing a very high trade deficit of $35.609 billion and the external deficit has swelled to $16.305 billion. In this manner, APTMA, a number of times have discussed and clearly mentioned how the

The presentation also revealed that the PM export lead growth package has gone reversed

as the shortage of cotton-- 3.8 million bales, 4% customs duty and 5% sales tax has been re-imposed. Further mentioned were the energy costs that are more than 30% of the overall conversion cost in weaving, spinning and the processing industry. The electricity tariff is 50% higher than the regional competitors while that of the gas tariff is 100%. Another important highlighted point here was the various add-ons including the UFG, GIDC and cost of supply. While talking to the media the Chairman of APTMA, Aamir Fayyaz demanded for the zero rating of the textile raw materials, reductions in cost of doing business, resolution of the liquidity issues, and filling up the policy implementations dividing immediately to ensure restoration of the industry’s viability and revival of the export potential of the country. Mr Fayyaz further said that the high cost of doing business, shortage of liquidity, the ongoing policy-implementation divide and realization of only Rs03 billion out of Rs180 billion textile packages are a few major concerns of the industry at present. “The viability of the textile industry has been eroded fast but the government was not able to pay the required

amount of attention to it” he added. With an emphasis, he said that the earliest revival, as well as the growth of the textile industry, is a must to navigate the jolting textile industry towards being a better and stable competitor in the market. He also highlighted the terrifying state of affairs in the industry by saying that the production capacity of the textile industry of Pakistan has been impaired by 35% across the value chain. Textile exports have declined by 11%, its global market share has reduced by 23%, investment in the sector has dropped by 17% and 30% of the unemployment has already been redundant. For seeking revival and growth of the textile industry and to enable the industry to increase its production, exports and employment in broader economic interest, Mr Fayyaz demanded complete realisation of Rs 180 billion textile package announced by the PM in the starting month of 2017. Duty/tax-free import of cotton and polyester staple fibre, liquidation of all outstanding refunds of sales tax, withdrawal of all electricity surcharges, the supply of RLNG at Rs400/MMBTU and strengthening of domestic commerce through tariff/non-affiliated measures to counter informal trade and dumped imports.

Pakistan focusing on new markets to boost trades Officials from textile industry shared their word with media that Pakistan is now focusing on exploring new markets, in different regions. The purpose for the haunt is to enhance and broaden the exports of the country. While speaking with the media, the minister of commerce and textile, Pervaiz Malik said that in the global world of this date, economic relations and trade activities are the major component of diplomacy for keeping ties with the global as well as regional markets. He further explained that the government settled on prioritizing the enhancement of exports of the country and to achieve the trade targets for the ongoing fiscal year. Mr Malik further said that they are focusing on the short medium and long-term strategies to boost the multilateral relationships with the potential markets, around the globe. Being an important part of the

trade relationships, the EU is one of the top priorities for the government of Pakistan. "According to the vision of Nawaz Sharif, we are committed to enhancing trade volume with EU and other regions of the world" said Mr Malik. As compared to 2013, the year 2016 had recorded an increase of about 60% in the exports of textile products to the EU. Malik further added that “the Pakistani rug and carpet exports to EU also increased from 30.30 million euros in 2013 to 37.92 million euros in 2016.” Likewise, the Pakistan’s export of cotton and other raw materials that are for the value added textile had increased in the EU for about 9% in 2016 as compared to 2013. This indicates an increase consumption of raw materials by the downstream industry, said Mr Malik.

Textile products criteria for EU ecolabelling amended The European Commission (EU) has recently issued a notice in its official journal establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the EU Ecolabel to textile products by amending certain clauses. The notice modifies the definition of textile products to include intermediate products that can now benefit from the environment-friendly label. The validity of the Ecolabel requirements for textile products has been extended to 78 months. The criteria were due to expire in June 2018. Under the EU Ecolabel voluntary scheme, companies can label their products as having a lower environmental impact than other products within the same group. In the textile sector, the Ecolabel can be awarded to all sorts of products made of textiles, including clothing and accessories, interior textiles, fibres, yarn and fabric. The EU Ecolabel assures customers of a number of environment and health related factors, including the limited use of substances harmful to the environment and human health, reduced water and air pollution, resistance to shrinking when the textile is being washed and dried, and colour resistance to perspiration or when the product is being washed. Under the amended definition, textile products include the following three categories: (1) Textile fibres, yarn, fabric and knitted panels: intermediate products intended for use in textile clothing and accessories and interior textiles, including upholstery fabric and mattress ticking prior to the application of backings and treatments associated with the final product. (2) Non-fibre elements: intermediate products that

are incorporated into textile clothing and accessories and interior textiles, including zips, buttons and other accessories, as well as membranes, coatings and laminates. (3) Cleaning products: woven or non-woven products made from textile fibres and intended for the wet or dry cleaning of surfaces and the drying of kitchenware. The sentences explaining the exceptions that apply to recycled fibres or organic cotton fibres have been amended for clarity. Clarifying on how the percentage of cotton in a product should be calculated for the purpose of ensuring compliance, the July notice says the recycled cotton fibre shall be deducted from the required minimum percentages in all cases, except for clothing for babies under three. Amendments have also been made to the sentences explaining organic cotton, transgenic cotton, IPM cotton and pesticides restriction requirements for textiles to harmonise them with those used for the requirements for footwear and furniture product groups. A criterion on the substitution of hazardous substances used in dyeing, printing and finishing has also been amended to make it clear that â&#x20AC;&#x153;functional substances incorporated into synthetic fibres and man-made cellulose fibres during their manufacturingâ&#x20AC;? that are hazardous may also be subject to restrictions. Other changes include those relating to the criteria for corporate responsibility and the standards for colour fastness of textiles.

US textile industry gaining new ground

The technological advancement in the textile and fiber sector now allows the US textile industry to attain new grounds after losing the market shares for years. These shares were lost to the overseas manufacturers, as said by the report in the Chemical & Engineering News. US’ textile companies were crowded out of the market by low-cost overseas labor. American textile companies, long crowded out of the market by low-cost overseas labor, have developed new niches for hi-tech fibres and textiles. According to the textile and fiber manufacturers, the advanced products include antimicrobial fabric, fire-retardant finishes, sensor-imbued "smart fabric,"

and polyester made from recycled plastic bottles. Thanks to technological advances, automation and productivity improvements, and the US textile industry is finally growing more competitive. The report further says that; notwithstanding the increase in business, and even favorable domestic policies enticing foreign manufacturers to open plants in the United States, the employment in the industry may continue to falter in the face of automation. However, this is now and understood the fact that the high-tech nature of modern textiles and a drive for productivity has increased the demand for experts, including polymer chemists and dye specialists.

BOI to hold road show for expanding Pakistan’s FDI While sharing his views in a discussion, the spokesmen of the Board of Investment of Pakistan said that the government would hold roadshows in Germany, China and United Arab Emirates (UAE) including all big economies in coming few months for increasing Pakistan's Foreign Direct Investment. “Through new work plan, BOI would hold roadshows with the collaboration of chambers of industries and All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) for focusing on textile and steel industry”

he further added. "We have mainly focused on achieving the FDI target of US$ 15 billion by 2025", he said while proceeding to his discussion. The official further said that “the government is committed to facilitating an ultimate ease of doing business for the foreign investors as well as the global competitiveness of Multinational Companies (MNCs).”

Applied DNA to tag cotton for 2017/18 US ginning season The Applied DNA provides services regarding DNA-based supply chain security, anti-counterfeiting, and anti-theft technology. The company has recently gained an order to tag 27.5 million pounds of cotton for 2017/18 ginning season. The project is for three US cotton varietals. The three varietals are Pima, Delta and Acala, which fall under the PimaCott, HomeGrown LoneStar, and HomeGrown Acala programs. The company is expecting to ship SigNature T DNA to mark 27.5 million pounds of cotton before the end of June 2017.

cotton for the 2017/2018 ginning season.”

The president and the CEO of the Applied DNA, Mr James A. Hayward said that; “Now in our third season, Applied DNA’s SigNature T DNA has been meeting the need for supply chain traceability, transparency, and trust within the cotton industry ecosystem with national retailers, their supply chain partners, and consumers. We are proud to continue to tag, test, and track

For the mentioned order the customer has agreed on enhanced customary and favourable payment terms, which will allow earlier recognition as compared to the past orders. The new order is incremental to DNA concentrate to tag 30 million pounds of cotton that was shipped during fiscal 2016 to establish an on-site reserve of SigNature T DNA before the harvest begins.

Proceeding further to his discussion he added that; “This order demonstrates our success in further entrenching SigNature T DNA in an established revenue-generating vertical and in extending the adoption of our proven technology platform. Although we cannot predict the timing of follow-on orders, conversations with our customers lead us to believe that additional opportunities to tag cotton during the 2017/2018 ginning season are likely.”

Texworld Paris 18 to launch a segment on denim Towel export of Pakistan grew by 15.78% in the month of March, in comparison to the exports of the corresponding month of last year. According to the data given by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, almost 15,325 metric ton of towel that worthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of about 70.354 million USD is exported in the month of March as compared to the exports of 13,551 metric tons of worth 50.76 million USD of the same month in previous year. During the first three quarters of the ongoing fiscal year the export of towel from the country has fallen by 3.18% and recorded at 132,723 metric ton. Towels, worth of 578.24 million USD were exported during the time period from July-march, 2016-17 as compared to the exports of 597.1 million of the corresponding period of the previous year. But in the last 9 months exports of the bed-wear increased by 5.11% and about 263,814 metric tons of bed-wear worth 1.585 billion USD were exported as compared to the exports of 244,295 metric ton of worth 1.508 billion USD in the last year. Month on month basis, the exports of bed-wear grew by 5.43% and was recorded at 29,259 metric ton of worth 180 million USD against the exports of 28,995 metric tons worth of 171.182 million USD of the same month of last year.

6% increase in readymade garmentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; exports The countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s export of ready-made textile raised by six percent to $2.316 billion last fiscal year, official figures say. The increase in the garments export stands at $58.269 million last fiscal year compared to their export of $2.195 billion in the fiscal year 2016, Pakistan Bureau of Statistics shows. Export volume of readymade garments went up by 6.13 percent or 2.010 million dozens to 34.785 million dozens last fiscal year from 32.775 million dozens in the fiscal year 2016. In June 2017, export of ready-made textile shot up by 20 percent or $39.918 million to $242.951 million from $203.033 in June 2016. In terms of quantity, readymade garments export surged by 16.45% or 525,000 dozens to 3.715 million dozens in June 2017 from 3.190 million dozens in June 2016.

CEO FAKT Saleem Khan Tanoli elected as 1st VC of UFI Chief Executive Officer, FAKT Exhibitions (Organizers of IGATEX and DPS World) Muhammad Saleem Khan Tanoli has been elected 1st Vice-Chair of the UFI Asia Pacific Chapter for the term of three years. In a letter Kai Hattendorf- Managing Director/CEO UFI greeted Saleem Tanoli and said that he is looking forward to a continuous collaboration and wished him for his future success and achievements. On his election, CEO FAKT Exhibitions Muhammad Saleem Khan Tanoli expressed his gratitude and affirmed that he will work at his best to promote exhibition industry in Pakistan. “We wish to increase the share of Pakistan and other countries of this region in trade fair industry in Asia. We will work to enhance indoor capacity of exhibition facilities in

Pakistan and to increase sold space in trade fair market,” he vowed. UFI is the leading global association of the world’s tradeshow organizers and exhibition centre operators, as well as the major national and international exhibition associations, and selected partners of the exhibition industry. UFI’s main goal is to represent, promote and support the business interests of its members and the exhibition industry. UFI directly represents around 50,000 exhibition industry employees globally, and also works closely with its 55 national and regional associations’ members. As many as 722 member organizations in 85 countries around the world are presently signed up as members.

682 Mills closed in India According to the announcement made by the government of India, about 682 mills closed as the June 2017 ended. Conferring to the sources, 232 mills were in Tamil Nadu, 85 in Maharashtra and 60 were in Uttar Pradesh while about 42 such mills were in the region of Haryana. Smriti Irani, the textile minister of India, shared the update while speaking to the Lok Sabha telling that about 1,399 textile mills were operational on 30th of June 2017 and all these are the non-small scale mills. “Under this government, the textiles industry saw the largest amount of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI),” she added in her discussion. Proceeding further she said that “The GST (Goods and Services Tax), as well as the labour reforms, have been welcomed by the industry.” While talking about the Amended Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS), that was launched last year, Irani said that “there are benefits in terms of one-time capital subsidy of 15% for the garments and technical textiles segments with a cap of Rs 30 crore.” Apart from this, there is about 10% capital subsidy for weaving, jute, silk, processing and handloom segments, with the subsidy cap of Rs 20 crore for setting up new textile units as well as for the expansion of the existing units with benchmarks technology.

PTEA concerned on unending fall in exports

The Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) had expressed their concerns over the sluggish growth in exports as an unending export downfall. The high production costs, inconsistent policies on government, competition, and completely incompetent energy prices have played a major role in deteriorating the exports of Pakistan. The chairman of PTEA, Mian Ajmal Farooq said that the textile industry plays a major role in the economy of Pakistan and is currently facing an unprecedented crisis. As a result of this situation, the sizeable textile capacity has been severely damaged and the textile exports, both in quality and value terms have decreased across the value chain; whereas, in the meantime, the regional competitors have doubled their exports with an impressive percentage. While giving details, Mr Farooq also said that the textile exports of the country were 13.8 billion dollars in 2010-11, which has now dropped by 10.4% to 12.4 billion dollars in 2016-17. On the other hand, the textile exports of India witnessed a 31% increase from 27.7billion dollar in 2010-11 to 36.4 billion dollars in 2016-17. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Unfortunately, the government is not feeling the pain of the fall in export earnings as sliding exports are contributing significantly to the trade deficit,â&#x20AC;? said Mr Farooq. While pointing out the reasons for the erosion of the textile industry, Mr Farooq said that the competitiveness was a major factor behind the downfall, specifically against the huge incentive being provided by the competing countries to their export sectors. Previously, to support the struggling textile industry of Pakistan, the government announced a textile package, under which the incentives were offered for six months. This package has also expired now. Farooq demanded to continue the drawback of taxes incentives scheme and for immediate payment of the outstanding refunds claims that are stuck in the refund regime since a long time.

USTER TESTER 6 ®

Welcome to the Total Testing Center™ – where data drives quality and profit Brand-new sensor technology in the USTER ® TESTER 6 opens the door to greater accuracy and reliability than ever – at blazing fast speeds. Test data shows spinners the full picture, with all the options for assured quality and cost-effective production.

The Total Testing Center™ – incorporated in the USTER ® TESTER 6 – combines results from laboratory tests with online data, providing 100 % quality control. It covers all the spinning mill processes, and extends the options as each instrument connects to the system. It’s a unique business tool, transforming data into practical choices for quality yarns and profitable production. The new USTER ® TESTER 6 sets new global standards in evenness testing – and is the starting point for future mill management.

www.uster.com/tester

Since 1957 Biancalani manufactures its own-designed machines for special finishing of woven and knitted fabric. The machines are designed with experience and built with passion and are suitable for any type of fabric, for every finishing application, in a wide range of compositions and constructions. The Biancalani production range is: - AIRO batch softening and drying machine in rope form, for woven fabrics - AIRO 24 continuous open width tumble dryer for woven and knit fabrics - BRIO batch active stabilizing dryer for knit fabrics - BRIO 24 continuous active stabilizing dryer for knit fabrics - MILLA combined milling and washing machine for wolen fabrics - IDRA modular milling and washing machine for wolen fabrics.

Rossano Biancalani

Chairman of the board of directors

BIANCALANI srl

The young Fiorenzo Biancalani

Biancalani workshop with 4 AIRO24 machines

60 years of satisfactions

It was 1957 when Fiorenzo Biancalani, twenty-seven but with eleven years of experience behind him in a workshop in a wollen mill of Prato (Tuscany/Italy), decided to open his own construction company for wet finishing machinery of wool fabrics. The Prato District was extremely alive, the requests were not lacking and the roots of Biancalani were already very firm.

never seen before. AIRO radically changed the fabric finishing: it turned the concept of finishing department from just a service to being an integral part of the creative process which forms the final aspect of the fabric. Softness, volume, drape and other specific advantages can be delivered to every textile surface in any composition and weight.

After 60 years Fiorenzo Biancalani is still a constant presence in the company, although from the beginning of the 80's the guide went to his sons Rossano, Rossana and Massimo. They were the ones to develop the commercial network and get Biancalani out of the Prato boundaries, even though so far were not missing the orders from other countries in and out of Europe.

Several times developed and redesigned to adapt to the times and client requirements, in 2006 AIRO is followed by AIRO 24, which assures the same type of beautiful fabric finishing, but in continuous and in open width form with a design that allows for high efficiency, low maintenance, and low consumption.

Since 1985 the production of machinery has also begun for dry finishing: a year characterized by the arrival of AIRO, a machine that transport the fabric in an air jet and can achieve beautiful finishings,

“Apart from AIRO and AIRO 24 we also launched IDRA, MILLA, BRIO, and BRIO 24 while other projects are now under development”, says Rossano Biancalani, who followed all the evolution of the markets. “The research for new sustainable

The famous AIRO1000, since 1985

Biancalani family, from left Massimo, Fiorenzo, Rossana, Rossano

and ecological solutions that allow Biancalani finishing machines to deliver a perfect combination of quality, beauty and efficiency has always been one of the main activities for the company, and is well known and appreciated by all customers in every textile sector”. How has the textile machinery makers world changed? And the competition? “When we started partecipating at ITMA international exhibition in 1975, the competition did not build similar machines. But now they are, even though Biancalani have the experience, the

constant presence on the markets and the full services for the end-users, including a technological service that assists all customers with advice on any issues related to the finishing of their products.” “The attention to details, even small, is very important for Biancalani: sometimes small details which might be less evident are neglected by other machine manufacturers, but they are all of extreme importance, as they are part of the quality chain concept which connects us to our own customer, whose expectations and trust need to be met, or

Biancalani AIRO24 TRIPLEX, installed in India

better, exceeded.â&#x20AC;? Some regret in these first 60 years? "Nobody. Only satisfaction to be still on the market, even after the 2008 crisis, and to be appreciated all over the world. And now that many countries start investing again, from Germany, England, Portugal and Belgium, we are there. And we will continue to be there, for them and all our other clients." MUSTEX Corporation in Karachi, exclusive agent for Biancalani in Pakistan, is available to coordinate and organize trials on any kind of fabric of any weight and composition, in order to show the extraordinary results that the Biancalani machines can deliver. Model 134, an old Biancalani milling machine installed in Pakistan, late '60th

Happenings

Techtextil 2017 Frankfurt, Germany

Happenings

Happenings 32

FESPA 2017 Hamburg, Germany

Happenings

Cotton USA - Executive Delegation 2017, Dubai

Happenings

Happenings 36

5th ICTC, UMT Lahore, Pakistan

Happenings

InoCotton Grow Kick-off Conference, NTU Faisalabad

Happenings

Corporate Highlights

Advanced technology on Savio Cone Winders for processing even the most demanding products:

“The Core Yarns”

Single Core Yarns, Dual Core Yarns

Various kinds of manmade fiber (MMF) materials are evolving from continuous research and development. MMF already have a dominant role in fiber demand growth and have become a very natural part of our lives. In addition, we have also witnessed the increasing demand to provide single core and dual core yarns packages, which today have become a commodity. As a manufacturer of textile machinery, Savio offers winding systems that are ideal for many different needs, supporting customers in the textile

challenge of developing new applications to meet their requests. The trend toward body-well-fitting yet comfortable fashion apparel is very demanding and challenging. Stretch garments are playing an important role inside this scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially for womenswear. In order to keep up with this trend of stretch denim, many yarn & fabric manufacturers are offering “Core Yarns” with

Savio automatic winding machine

improved recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to the skin.

on denim with treatments such as antique finishes, whisker washing and sandblasting.

“Core Yarns” are consisting of two or three components. Single core is created by twisting staple fibers around a central elastomeric filament core, usually made of Lycra® fiber. Dual core spun yarns are made of three components: a core filament mainly Lycra®, a polyester multifilament as Lycra® T-400® and a staple fiber - mainly cotton. Dual core yarn offers improved recovery and strength compared to traditional core spun technology. This stretch technology hidden within the yarn eliminates the “bagging knee syndrome” and creates a new standard for superior shape retention and recovery performance, providing a soft cotton hand and a natural appearance. The technology has relevance not only for jeans trousers, but also for denim leggings that lately have become popular. The added strength provided by polyester helps those fabrics withstand bleaching and washing techniques, even

Savio automatic winding machines can easily process special and challenging yarns, even the most demanding products such as the “Core Yarns”. The Savio winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape. In addition, special solutions have been engineered for automatic devices (bobbin preparation, transport, etc.) present in the link and free standing fully automatic winder models to control and process these springy elastic yarns. A special “Lycra kit” is available for yarn end finder stations of fully automatic winding machines, in order to grant the highest efficiency for the bobbin preparation in presence of single or dual core yarns. “Core Yarns” splicing technology Together with the well-known performance of the

Savio Twinsplicer on single core/cotton yarns, Savio offers a new splicing technology, combining air and water, MoistAir® splicer, which represents a flexible solution for any kind of yarn. Twinsplicer The Twinsplicer, the unique selling proposition of Savio, provides top quality splice. The splice

supplied with a water valve with dosage setting to moisture the splice. It is suitable for almost all kinds of short and long spun yarns, but it has delivered superior performances, versus the standard air splicer, on Tencel®, elastic core (single core, dual core), specialty yarns and fine counts. This splicer is also ideal for denim fabric producers, because it’s very versatile on coarse and slub yarns and on weft core yarns. Due to the several different compositions of yarn structures, Savio always recommends to run splicing tests for optimum performance.

Twinsplicer, the unique selling proposition of Savio

strength is always above 95%, keeping the appearance of the splicing point the same as that of the yarn itself. The Twinsplicer for core and dual core yarns preserves the elastomeric filament entirely inside the joints, thus not interrupting the uniformity and continuity of the core’s elasticity. MoistAir® splicer The MoistAir® splicer is an innovative air splicer using a very small quantity of water (spray). It is

Quality team players The Savio winding unit is equipped with control devices for ensuring perfect tension, density, metering and superb package shape. These unique devices contribute in producing packages without ribbon; ensure the minimum possibility of breakage, and slug-off during unwinding at a very high speed, particularly in fine counts, and results into higher efficiency in Weaving & Warping department. Some of the solutions for increasing efficiency in Savio winding unit are: 1. C.A.T. - Computer Aided Tension® The winding tensions is detected continuously by the Tensor, which interacts with the yarn tensioner device, through the machine PC, in order to adjust the load on the yarn as required. The Tensor, being positioned just before the drum, detects online the real winding tension. The sensor does not have any movable parts and performs as “antiwrap” system. Tensorflex: In presence of elastomeric core yarn, the tension values must be diversified during the package formation to ensure a perfect shape.

Moistair® splicer

2. C.A.P - Computer Aided Package® (Optional) This is a special “Computer Aided Package” (C.A.P.®) system optionally available, which is capable to eliminate the ribbon totally from the package. This unique system produces packages without ribbon and ensures the minimum possibility of breakage, slug-off during unwinding at a very high speed, particularly in fine count, which results into a much higher efficiency in the Weaving & Warping department. In addition, it ensures very precise metering of the yarn on the package and tightly controls the density of the package itself.

competence throughout the spinning process & Spinning mill 4.0 Marzoli, the European leader of spinning technology, in its 160 years of activity in the industry has always worked in synergy with the most important yarn manufacturers, maturing unique competences for the implementation of solutions that have been exported worldwide as benchmarks for efficiency, flexibility and quality. The complete and unique competences on the processes of fiber preparation, spinning preparation and ring spinning have led Marzoli to be the only European manufacturer capable of offering the complete line of machines. But what makes Marzoli really stand out in the industry is not only its capacity of offering the most advanced technology for a completely-automated and well-balanced spinning mill: it is its capability of being a reliable solution provider by drawing on a superior technical and technological knowhow. Perfect fusion between mature expertise and dynamic competence, knowledge and experimentation, Marzoli can assist each client from the preliminary study of the project to the start-up, optimization and maintenance of the production line. Thanks to the global sales and service network, the extensive experience on every type of fiber and the unique background of competences developed in the most disparate projects, Marzoli represents the perfect partner for whoever wants to differentiate and innovate in the textile industry. Today more than ever, given the high instability of the markets and the increasingly-fiercer competition, companies evaluate with maximum care the choice of the right product and the correct investment in

technology and production processes. It is fundamental to differentiate and at the same time to remain flexible in order to effectively and rapidly deal with the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requests. These are the keys to face and overcome the challenges of the market. Marzoli has found the solution to this by developing a concept of an electronic and fully-integrated spinning mill, where textile technology, high-performance mechanics, electronics and digitalization unite. These are the fundamental ingredients for the realization of a Spinning Mill 4.0: flexible, productive, efficient, digitalized, scalable, opened and predisposed to the developments that the new technologies will bring in the forthcoming years. The constant predisposition towards innovation and the synergies shared with Camozzi Group on IoT and the most recent technologies (Cloud Computing, Smart Sensors, Industrial Ethernet, Machine Learning, â&#x20AC;Ś) have enabled Marzoli to interpret the paradigms of Industry 4.0 and exploit them in order to further enhance performances and flexibility of its plants. Marzoli has developed two innovative software platforms that allow an easy and quick management of yarn production and a substantial optimization of the entire spinning process. These two platforms were installed, in 2014, at pilot factories in Turkey and Italy and in November 2015 they were presented at ITMA Milan. YarNet, Marzoli production management software, is the platform that allows to register and elaborate all production data, operating conditions and

technological parameters of the machines in real time in one simple, intuitive and well-structured interface and allows the user to interact directly with each and every machine of the spinning plant by downloading, editing and uploading any production recipe. The centralization of all the information about production, efficiency levels, energy consumption, alarms, etc. enables the client to have everything under control in any moment and to manage and optimize production from his office. MRM, the innovative software platform for predictive maintenance developed by Marzoli, allows to continuously analyze the symptomatic data gathered by processors and sensors installed in critical parts of the machines to constantly monitor their efficiency. The data about temperatures, power consumption, pressures, speeds and vibrations are gathered and, through a gateway, sent to the Azure Cloud provided by Microsoft. The data are then analyzed through special algorithms developed by Marzoli which continuously verify the monitored parameters in relation to the machine working conditions. If anyone of them is outside the tolerance range, an automatic email alert is sent to the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s addresses registered in the system. The client can always access the dedicated SW platform where it is possible to see the information for predictive maintenance of the machines and of the

overall efficiency of the plant. Furthermore Marzoliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customer service can access, if necessary, the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s machine in order to diagnose the problem and communicate the necessary steps to solve it. MRM discloses the following benefits: prevention of machine failures, longer running life of the machine components and more effective maintenance of the mill. With over 13 million installed spindles Pakistan represent the third largest spinning sector in the world. Pakistani mills have always been key international players in the supply of yarn, however the fierce price competition of neighboring countries has been increasingly threatening their competitiveness. State-of the-art technology and continuous innovation may be the way to reaffirm Pakistan as a global leading hub in yarn manufacturing. Particularly beneficial may be the implementation of the new ICTs which disclose substantial benefits which ultimately reduce costs and increase efficiency levels. Marzoli, the European leader of spinning technology, through its vast heritage of competences spanning throughout the entire spinning process, the synergies with the Camozzi Group on the most modern ICTs and its cutting-edge software platforms, may represent just the right partner for whoever wants to innovate and stand out in the global competitive scenario.

Long-lasting odor control and freshness in apparel and textile products are priorities for millennials “Opportunities,” it has often been said, “should not be neglected because they rarely visit us twice.” That is sound advice for the global textile and apparel industry when it comes to marketing to millennials, whose mindset, consumer behaviors and spending power are reshaping the global economy and creating a substantial and viable marketing opportunity for product manufacturers and brand owners. How substantial an opportunity? Millennials, generally defined as people born between about 1980 and the early 2000s, number 1.7 billion people or approximately one out of every four people on the planet. Shared Values A growing body of research shows that while millennials are impacted by their local cultures, there are more commonalities among them than there are differences. That is because they share the same information channels and media content with their peers in other countries, courtesy of the internet and social media, helping them form common perspectives, values, behaviors and motivations. The research highlights some overarching trends that provide a roadmap to successfully marketing textile and apparel products to millennials no matter where they live. Findings from the research company Nielson, which are confirmed by Dow Microbial Control proprietary research, show that: • Among the most prominent trends among millennials is a desire for sustainable, balanced, healthy lifestyles and a need to assert greater control over their personal and family health and wellness. • Almost 75 percent of millennials are willing to pay extra for sustainable offerings and believe that their personal values are more important than personal benefits, such as cost savings. • Millennials expect today’s products to have increasingly better performance benefits than yesterday’s products. • Millennials want to be more informed about how

the products they purchase perform and the business practices of the companies that produce and sell them. Dow: Ahead of the Trend Dow Microbial Control recognized the emerging need among millennials and others for a healthy, more sustainable lifestyle and developed a strategy to help apparel and textile manufacturers take advantage of it. That strategy initially played out in

September 2012 with the introduction of SILVADUR ™ Antimicrobial, Dow’s advanced odor-control technology for apparel and textiles. This intelligent technology neutralizes odor-causing bacteria on fabric surfaces, which directly plays into consumer desires for healthy, sustainable lifestyles. For example, apparel products treated with SILVADUR stay fresher longer, which reduces the need for frequent launderings, saving water and energy, as well as time that is so valuable to today’s busy millennials. Since its introduction, SILVADUR technology has enabled many brands to provide long-lasting odor protection across a wide array of product lines. These include, but are not limited to, commonly-worn base-layer products where odor can build up, such as t-shirts and underwear, sports and fitness apparel, socks and shoes. SILVADUR is also adding value in denim, including jeans, and casual clothes for men, as well as home textiles, such as bed linens, sheets, pillows and rugs, and other product categories. Extensive testing has shown that SILVADUR has a high degree of efficacy against a wide range of odor-causing bacteria and is highly durable. Feedback from apparel manufacturers indicates that the technology is efficient and effective and the application process is easy to adopt and use. The solution is compatible with softeners, optical brighteners and most auxiliary agents and does not react with other chemical treatments. It can be easily incorporated into the existing operating systems of a mill, using either exhaustion or padding processes, without requiring excessive processing temperatures, times or added binders. It can also be applied by spraying or other methods. Giving Consumers Peace of Mind SILVADUR is an ingredient technology, making it

invisible to millennials and other consumers who want information on the products they purchase and their performance attributes. In July 2016, Dow Microbial Control addressed this issue by introducing the INTELLIFRESH™ brand, which is designed to give consumers peace of mind that the products they purchase are providing the reliable, durable odor control and long-lasting freshness protection that is so important to them. The INTELLIFRESH brand on a product is a signal that Dow’s SILVADUR technology is in the product and performing at a high level. INTELLIFRESH is available to select manufacturers and retailers of consumer goods who collaborate with Dow through a brand licensing and quality assurance program. The quality assurance program is designed to ensure that all products featuring the INTELLIFRESH label meet measurable and quantifiable performance standards, specifications and quality protocols and comply with industry and regulatory requirements. An Opportunity for the Taking Clearly, the opportunity has never been greater for those manufacturers and retailers of apparel and textile products who understand the enormity of the millennial cohort and the importance they and other consumers place on personal and family health and wellness. Those who partner with Dow Microbial Control to take advantage of this opportunity by manufacturing and marketing products that feature advanced odor control technology and longer lasting freshness can be rewarded with increased sales, higher margins and repeat purchases by loyal customers. Author Karel Williams is global strategic marketing associate director and brand manager for Dow Microbial Control. He can be reached at klwilliams@dow.com

and

TED

An Interview with Klaus A. Heinrichs Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Germany

The finishing of textiles on machines and ranges from Monforts is an internationally acknowledged hallmark of quality and perfection. Mr Klaus Heinrichs of Monforts shared the advancements with TEXtalks at Techtextil. While talking about the Pakistan, in particular, he marked it as key market for the company. TEXtalks: What products Monforts is promoting at Techtextil? Klaus A. Heinrichs: At Techtextil, Monforts is promoting its new coating ranges, specially the new knife over rollers, magnet rollers and printing heads which have been acquired just two years ago and is now integrated into the Monfortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s portfolio. Now, we can offer an integrated coating range from a single source by Monforts which means our customer can get a complete line for coating just from Monforts with integrated electrics and electronics with one service source.

exhaust air cleaning, as an integrated system for its thermo treateatment machine mainly for the stenters. TEXtalks- How is the response from the visitors in Techtextil? Klaus A. Heinrichs: Monforts innovations and Monforts new products have been well received by the visitors not only from central Europe but much more from South East Asia visitors and from other countries. Especially, the coating units have been well accepted and appreciated as the coating lines are now available from a single source with together with the Monforts machines.

TEXtalks: Can you pls guide about Monforts texCOAT? Klaus A. Heinrichs: The products marketed in with the name of texCOAT are well proven in the market since many years. They are originated from an Austrian company; formerly selling their products mainly in Europe and were well proven. Now as a portfolio of Monforts, we have the worldwide sales and service network so that these products can be sold under reliable and most comfortable demands.

TEXtalks- What are Monforts main products for Pakistan market? Klaus A. Heinrichs: Pakistan is a very special market for Monforts where we have very good reputation at where Monforts have amazing representation by Al-Ameen. The main products for Pakistan are THERMEX continuous dyeing ranges, and our special ranges for denim treatment. Here, I would like to mention the new Monforts Eco Denim line which has already the first two references worldwide and it would be more interesting for the Pakistani market. We have sanforizing lines for Pakistani market, and not to forget the Montex stenters with latest features for heat recovery systems.

TEXtalks: How Monforts see sustainability? Klaus A. Heinrichs: Sustainability is in the top themes of Monforts for many many years. So from history, we can say that Monforts was the first high tech machine manufacturer who equipped all their thermo treatment machines with the heat recovery unit as a standard. Now a day, we are much more advanced. Monforts can offer a heat recovery system with automatic cleaning and when we look into the future, Monforts will also take care of

TEXtalks- How do you see Pakistan market for Monfortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products? Klaus A. Heinrichs: Pakistan is a key market for Monforts. We have the best references in this market. Pakistan is a market, where the customers have excellent knowledge about textile treatment. This is a market, where we can sell high tech machines, where the machines have very high output and we see Pakistan further as one of the most important market for our company.

SCOPE OF CONFERENCE

TOPICS TO BE COVERED

Textile Industry is the backbone of pakistan’s economy. In order to strengthen the backbone, it is necessary to develop strong collaboration among researchers, industrialists and policy makers. Conventional textiles is transforming fast into technical textiles and advancements in textile engineering are expanding enormously due to technological importance. An international conference on Technical Textiles is being organized to discuss and share modern cutting-edge techniques and state of the art technologies in textile engineering. The conference will focus on the interchange of research ideas and results through keynotes, oral presentation, poster sessions and panel discussion.

Textile Engineering Product Development Textile Education and Training Textile Management and Economy Composite Materials Polymer Engineering Advanced Fibers and Materials Technical and Protective Textiles Smarts, Functional and Interactive Textiles Medicals Textiles, Tissue Engineering Implants Industrials Management Nanotechnology Automation Green Manufacturing Textile Manufacturing Systems Ecological and Environmental Textiles Recycling

CONFERENCE OBJECTIVES The objective of conference is to facilitate interaction between researchers and professionals working in the field of textile engineering. The conference will provide an international forum for professionals from academia, industry and governing bodies to discuss their problems and share achievements in order to develop the nations through recent manufacturing techniques and technologies.

IMPORTANT DATES Abstract Submission: Acceptance Notification: Paper Submission: Camera Ready Version: Early Bird Registration: Conference:

Aug 15, 2017 Aug 22, 2017 Oct 10, 2017 Oct 17, 2017 Oct 03, 2017 Nov 09-10, 2017

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION Web: www.ntu.edu.pk/ictt - E-mail: ictt@ntu.edu.pk

INTERNATIONAL INVITED SPEAKERS Prof. Hatice Sinem ŞAŞ Turkey Prof. Ick Soo Kim (Japan) Prof. Jiri Militky (Czech Republic) Prof. Mehmat karahan (Turkey) Prof. Prasad Potluri (UK) Prof. Xiodang Wang (China) Prof. Xiuguo Cui (China)

NATIONAL INVITED SPEAKERS Dr. Awais Khatri Dr. Iftikhar Ahmad Soomro Dr. Muhammad Dawood Husain Dr. Mumtaz Hassan Malik Dr. Rehan Abbasi Dr. Saad Nauman Dr. Usman Ali Dr. Waqar Ahmad Rajput Dr. Zameer Shah Dr. Zeeshan Khatri

An Interview with André Wissenberg Vice President - Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment, Germany

Oerlikon is a leading global technology Group providing market leading technologies and services. The Vice president of Oerlikon Manemade Fiber segment, Mr Andre Wissenbaerg, during Techtextil shared the belief, approaches and achievements of Oerlikon with TEXtalks. The discussion was insightful; explain the company policies and solutions from the brand. TEXtalks: What does industry 4.0 means to Oerlikon? André Wissenberg: The industry 4.0 topic is one of the most important topics driving our textile industry. We – from the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment with Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag solutions for the production of manmade fibers, BCF, filaments, staple fibers, nonwoven and artificial grass – are focusing on this topic and presenting ourselves since a couple of months at ITMA Asia, at ITME India and now here are Techtextil in Frankfurt with solutions in the field of industry 4.0. I would like to give an example: You might know the Microsoft HoloLens – it’s a development from Microsoft in 2016 and we were one of the first companies in Germany to come out with solutions for our customer services activities in terms of remote access. That means if you, as an operator in a plant, might have a problem and you can’t solve it by yourself. You just can take the augmented reality glass and share all relevant information with the camera and the screen that is available. You can share the situation on-site with an expert, for example, sitting somewhere in the world or in our facilities in Germany. Both together than solve the problem. The operator and the expert in Germany together can find a solution within a couple of minutes and this becomes a win win situation for both, for us and for our customers. TEXtalks: Can you describe about Oerlikon Plant

Operation Center? André Wissenberg: Another topic in terms of industry 4.0 is our plant operation center, we call it POC 4.0. It is software that enables our customers to control and to measure what happens in the whole production value chain. It is not only focused on the spinning plants, also available for the texturing if you are going to do textured yarn, but also above this production process. So it is possible to use it along the whole textile value chain and you can use it not only in one production plant, but you can use it via a cloud solution also for several production plants you have in the world. Then, you are able to look at your smart phone and see all the details and all the dashboards that we are offering. So, as a manager for a company using our Plant Operation Center you will be able to control a global company. TEXtalks: Can POC also be used for existing machinery solutions? André Wissenberg: Plant Operation Center POC 4.0 can be implemented for new machinery solutions and also for already existing plant solutions. Here we are acting like a consultant, let’s say, we have to sit together with our customers to find the right solutions for them, to listen to their requests and requirements and then to offer them the best solutions in terms of Plant Operation Center. TEXtalks: How was the response from the visitors during Techtextil? André Wissenberg: Techtextil Frankfurt 2017 was an excellent exhibition. It is not an exhibition for machinery builders like we are in terms of showing machines. We have to listen to the visitors. We have to listen to our customer, because they are talking here, in Frankfurt, about materials – and we are the one who can offer them, let’s say “the heart of any material” in the textile world. The heart of any textile material is the yarn – e.g. polyester and nylon – and

we have the production solutions for that. We took the opportunity in Frankfurt to listen to the customers and offer our solutions for the production of manmade fibers. TEXtalks: How do you see the future of technical textiles? André Wissenberg: The future of technical textiles has many opportunities and as we can see here at Techtextil in Frankfurt more and more technical textiles will be used in daily apparel.

There are smart textiles, functional textiles and sportswear – and this is not a classical technical textile in terms of industry textile. So, technical fibers will be more and more part of our daily life. But there is another topic at the Techtextil that you can see more and more coming up – it’s the composites topic. There are also a lot of technical textiles in this regard. So, I see the Techtextil will grow and will adapt and take over other topics like apparel and maybe hometextiles – like the composites.

An Interview with Erwin Devloo Marketing Communication Manager PICANOL N.V., Belgium

Picanol develops, produces and markets high-tech weaving machines, based on air (airjet) or rapier technology. On the event of Techtextil, the marketing communication manager, Erwin Devloo shared some words about the technical weaving technology with the TEXtalks International. While talking about the future of technical textile, Mr Devloo also appreciated the Techtextil and such events. TEXtalks: What are the key advantages of Picanol for technical weaving? Erwin Devloo: The key advantages of Picanol technical weaving are morally as the same as for main stream market because our products came to such maturity that they are ideally suited for technical weaving. On the top of that we have a service organization which is operational all over the world and we have dedicated teams of people who are experts in technical weaving. So, they assist our customers not only with machines but also with service, with spare parts, with weave-ups, with retrofitable upgrades for weaving machines and they are locally based so they are one phone call away. TEXtalks: What is the basis of Picanol’s technical weaving principles? Erwin Devloo: The technical weaving principles of

Picanol are same as our main stream machines with some adaptations and are ideally suited to weave technical fabrics. 10 years ago, maybe you need specialized tailor made machines but this is not the case anymore. So with our machines you can weave technical weft at a much higher speed than it used to be. TEXtalks: How do Picanol see sustainability? Erwin Devloo: We see sustainability in every aspect of our profession. Not only our machines are sustainable but also the way of working, the way of producing them and the way of interacting with the customers. TEXtalks: What does industry 4.0 means to Picanol? Erwin Devloo: Now industry 4.0 everybody is talking about, but in fact long before the word was invented, our machines were already industry 4.0. If you look into our modern air jet for example, we have devices on that, that are adjusting, the air consumption, while the machine is running, it’s self-learning. But also industry 4.0, we are adopting that and we are using this in our production system. TEXtalks: How was the response from the visitors at Techtextil? Erwin Devloo: It was quite good because it is a typical fair for networking and not only the textile machinery manufacturers who are here are, mainly

our customers that are the producers of technical textile and so every body of the textile chain is present and this gives good interaction. TEXtalks: How do you see the future of technical textile?

Erwin Devloo: Technical textile is something which is un-doubtfully growing, because there are more and more applications for use, just thinking about smart textile for example. And as you said, industry 4.0 is also present in the textile industry and it can only grow.

An Interview with Stefano Gallucci Group CEO – Santex Rimar Group srl, Italy

On of the leading players in the world market of machine manufacturers for weaving, textile finishing, technical textile, nonwovens and green technologies for water treatment and drying processes, the Santex Rimar’s CEO Mr Stefano Gallucci, shared some words at Techtextil with TEXtalks readers. TEXtalks: What solutions Santex Rimar group is providing at Techtextil? Stefano Gallucci: At Techtextil, we are presenting the full range of products and solutions that we have for the automotive sector. Having several brands working in the automotive, we can provide almost any kind of solutions from of weaving of technical textile to coating and to non-woven solutions. With the full range of solutions for almost any kind of products. TEXtalks: In which main areas, Santex Rimar group is working for technical textiles? Stefano Gallucci: In the weaving, we can weave several kinds of technical fibers, with very flexible loom solutions. In coating, we have several kinds of coatings, from scattering to wet coating to implementation. In non-woven, we have new solutions for the air-flows. TEXtalks: How do you see the future of technical textiles? Stefano Gallucci: The traditional textile is coming towards technical textiles. So, in the future, also in

countries like Pakistan, which are developing and looking for new opportunities, I see more and more request of this convergence of the two sectors, the application of traditional textiles to technical textiles. Like coatings for textile, for fashion, for denim where we are now offering new solutions which are very flexible and that can give a new product. TEXtalks: What are Santex Rimar group’s main products? Stefano Gallucci: We are technology partners for customized solutions: SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is the partner choice for weaving, textile finishing, technical textile, nonwovens machines and green solutions for water treatment and drying processes. We provide the most efficient technology in respect to productivity, energy savings and sustainability, low maintenance costs and state of the art production process. TEXtalks: How do you see Pakistan market for Santex Rimar group’s market? Stefano Gallucci: It is definitely developing and is developing fast. This year, I will that there are a lot of new requests which we have not seen in the past. With the new company, we have the HAS group, we are also entering in the stenters solutions. So now we can offer a full range of solutions both in textile and technical textile with integration of stenters.

An Interview with Yuji Ikeda Managing Director, Mimaki Europe B.V.

Mimaki is a leading manufacturer of wide-format inkjet printers and cutting machines for the sign/graphics, textile/apparel and industrial markets. Managing director of Mimaki Europe, Mr Yuji Ikeda, while talking to TEXtalks at Fespa Hamburg, briefed about the new products and their efficiency to textile sector. TEXtalks: Mimaki believes in “Dare to Print Different” what difference do you expect, will be brought by Mimaki machines in the world of digital textile printing? Yuji Ikeda: Our products offer new possibilities to our customers—they open up new business opportunities and new ways to create applications. We were, for instance, the first one to launch a small format UV flatbed printer, which revolutionized the promotional product industry. We also have an affordable solution for printing directly to cylindrical objects and have taken a very unique approach to 3D printing. In textiles, we also have very unique solutions that make it easier and more affordable than ever to produce short to mid-sized runs of digitally printed textiles, especially in demand for the Fast Fashion industry. TEXtalks: What features, in Tx300P-1800 and Tx300P-1800B, are presented in the new direct-to-textile printers that were not available in the previous versions? Yuji Ikeda: We recently updated our Tx300P-1800 and Tx300P-1800B direct-to-textile printers with dual ink capability which is unique in the industry, meaning that the printers can now simultaneously load both textile pigment and sublimation dye inks. This enables the use of a single printer to print directly on a wide range of textiles without the need to change out ink systems—a breakthrough that will improve productivity and increase flexibility for these Mimaki textile printers.

TEXtalks: Comparatively to the recent market, to what extent these machines will be cost effective in terms of digital printing, in coming days? Yuji Ikeda: Traditionally, only one ink per printer can be selected at the time of installation. A textile producer would need two machines if they want to print on both cotton and polyester, as they require different inks: textile pigment inks for cotton and hemp materials, sublimation inks for polyester-based fabrics. With dual ink capability on the Mimaki Tx300P series, the company will only need one single printer to print on all these materials, significantly reducing the cost of entry. Furthermore, neither ink type generally requires steaming or washing in the post-treatment process, there is no need for a large space, a huge quantity of water, or special expertise in handling the printed fabric. All that is required is the printer and colour fixing equipment, making these entry-level printers very cost-effective. TEXtalks: The company is having good sales number for Tx300P-1800B, what is the market response? Yuji Ikeda: The Tx300P-1800B has been well received by the market due to the versatility that it offers. By adding the belt system to the already popular Tx300P-1800 model, we have enabled a wide variety of materials to be produced with this machine, including modern stretchable materials, giving our users an even more versatile machine. With this, Mimaki has done what it has historically shown itself to be incredibly good at; making innovative technology accessible at all levels of production. This machine can be used by industrial production factories for sampling and proofing, while it is an equally excellent and affordable solution for smaller, entry-level designers and

producers as well as on-demand production of short run custom printed fabrics. TEXtalks: How different ink types in the new Mimaki printers can be helpful in changing the printing in textile? Yuji Ikeda: The variety of inks we have for our printers enables users to access a more diverse range of materials. It also allows companies to think differently about their production environments and not be limited only to one type of ink, while still using the technology they are familiar with. In addition, in the textile print market, there is growing demand for shorter runs, faster deliveries, and more customised production of textile products across the board. The combination of our diverse range of ink types and affordable digital textile printers is the perfect solution to accommodate this demand. TEXtalks: What is the response for the new 3D printer, Mimaki 3DUJ-P? Yuji Ikeda: Many visitors expressed their interest in the technology demonstration of our 3D printer. They were also especially impressed with the 3D samples we exhibited, which transcended the usual sign and graphics market, from product prototyping to architecture. Visitors were especially pleased to see the water-soluble support materials. Typically in 3D printing, there is effort required to remove the support “tags” left after printing. With a Mimaki 3D print, you simply wash away the supporting material, and voila, you have a finished piece! it is the world’s first truly full-colour modelling solution and supports up to 10 million different colours. I think we are off to a good start with Mimaki 3DUJ-P. TEXtalks: What is the next approach of Mimaki in bringing innovation in the world of textile printing? Yuji Ikeda: Aside from the dual ink capability for the Tx300P series, we also just introduced our first high volume production direct-to-textile printer, the Tiger-1800B. We are definitely committed to bringing more innovative products to the world of textile printing. Further developments and information will be revealed when we feel the time is right. TEXtalks: What is Mimaki’s belief about sustainability and how do these machines facilitate the idea? Yuji Ikeda: Mimaki has always cared about environmental sustainability and has taken

measures to achieve it at the highest level possible. Our established environmental management system, which is operated company-wide, monitors and supports continuous improvement. This earned us ISO 14001 certification in 2009. We promote recycling programmes, waste segregation, and thorough control of harmful chemicals to reduce our industrial waste. We also adopt the “doing it right the first time” policy, reducing failure rate during manufacturing to eliminate waste and run a smooth production process. In terms of products, our Tx300P series is also as environmentally sustainable as it is innovative. The entry-level model utilises both textile pigment and sublimation dye inks in one machine, reducing the amount of water usage. Furthermore, our sublimation inks have achieved The STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® product certification, which validates the safety of our inks to be used in sustainable textile production. These are just a few examples of Mimaki’s innovative approach to meeting today’s environmental requirements. TEXtalks: How do these machines relate and flourish the ideas of industry 4.0? Yuji Ikeda: We are still exploring the idea of Industry 4.0. We do have a vision on the Internet of Things approach to a global manufacturing supply chain, and we’ve had the opportunity to show this a couple of times over the years. At last year’s drupa, for example, we showed our UJF-7151plus UV flatbed printer with a robotic arm to facilitate unmanned operation. TEXtalks: What was the overall customer response on FESPA 2017? Yuji Ikeda: FESPA 2017 was a thrilling success for Mimaki. We are very pleased about the results we achieved. The show continues to exceed our expectations every year and it was indeed our most successful edition to date. In addition to the well-received Mimaki 3DUJ, our first 3D printer, visitors to the show also responded positively to our new offerings for the textile industry. In the textile hall, the new Mimaki Tiger-1800B high-speed direct-to-textile printer took centre stage, alongside the award-winning Tx300P-1800 and Tx300P-1800B. It was the first time we showed Tiger-1800B with sublimation ink, after demonstrating the machine with reactive ink in previous shows. In fact, textile company Estampados Hermanos Perez, located in Mataró,

Spain, and supported by Mimaki distributor Digidelta, purchased the printer from the show floor. TEXtalks: What was the customer response at Techtextil/Texprocess? Yuji Ikeda: We’ve also had positive feedback from our participation in the Digital Textile Micro Factory feature at Texprocess. Digital print technology has so much to offer to the textile industry; it can print small-runs more effectively, has the potential to

help reduce environmental impact, and many more. Unfortunately, only 3% of today’s textile production worldwide is done through digital printing. Therefore, we want to keep educating the market so that people are more aware about the advantages of digital textile printing. We feel that the Digital Textile Micro Factory was a good platform to introduce that complete workflow for digital textile production, and we are glad that visitors to the show were as enthusiastic as we are.

An Interview with Martin Winkler Segment Manager Textile Printing Durst Phototechnik A, Italy

TEXtalks: What new products was Durst exhibiting at FESPA? Martin Winkler: FESPA was, of course, an exhibition for the large formats but also fabrics and textile applications are becoming relevant for this market. Therefore, we offered new printers like the Rhotex 325 hybrid printing system, which enables direct and transfer printing in 3,2 m print width. What was the concept behind the campaign “Plus is on the rise”? Martin Winkler: “Plus is on the rise” was the motto for the Durst portfolio presentation at FESPA in Hamburg. It combines all the new features, developments and innovations for our Large Format Printing portfolio. We have improved the speed, we have reduced the ink consumptions, we have enhanced the flexibility, we have streamlined the production workflow and we have developed new service concepts with virtual reality, remote analyses and comprehensive support and maintenance offerings. To make a long story short: We provide added values or "a lot of plus" for our existing customers and the market. TEXtalks: How does Durst see sustainability? Martin Winkler: At Durst, the idea of developing sustainable and environmentally friendly products is an essential component of company DNA. All our products are equipped with various environ-

mental certificates and meet the safety regulations of the markets in which they are offered. TEXtalks: How do you see the future of digital textiles? Martin Winkler: Digital Textile is growing continuously about 20% a year and there is huge demand in different segments. The textile community and other printing sectors follow intensively the developments in digital textile printing and look for ways to adopt the technology into their portfolios and to create new products and markets. That’s the reason why we offer digital textile printers with different configurations and technologies. TEXtalks: What are the new developments on Pigment printing? Martin Winkler: Pigment is becoming a key driver in the digital textile market. Most of our customers are printing on-demand and they are switching to pigment, as it’s an eco-friendly one-step process with shorter production times and high quality print products. Pigment is for sure the future for the digital textile market. TEXtalks: How do you see the Pakistan market for Durst? Martin Winkler: Pakistan has a great presence in reactive production but the latest printers and installations have the focus on digital pigment. So the future has already started in Pakistan.

An Interview with Tony NASCHBERGER General Manager Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH, Austria

Driven by perfection and committed to the credo – First in Quality & First in Service – ZIMMER has become the benchmark for dependable high-class machines in the textile printing industry. While talking to TEXtalks at Techtextil, Tony NASCHBERGER briefed about new technologies, the idea of industry 4.0 and sustainability to Zimmer. TEXtalks: What solutions is Zimmer providing at Techtextil? Tony NASCHBERGER: We are providing solutions in the fields of printing and multipurpose coating systems, using the ‘Zimmer Magnet System PLUS’. On the coating side, we also work on digital coating and functionalization technology. Here we furnish the substrate with specific functionality like waterproof, antibacterial, fire resistance and so on. Chemicals and other liquids are applied using our digital technology. On the printing side, ZIMMER AUSTRIA offers the high-quality and high-performance screen printer ROTASCREEN, built at Zimmer Klagenfurt. COLARIS is our family of digital printers using up to 96 Fuji Starfire® circulation print heads. COLARIS offers an open ink system, and we work with suppliers from India, Europe, Asia, and America. Our brand new digital VAT printing system offers excellent light- and wash fastness. This ink is a joint development between DyStar and ZIMMER AUSTRIA, with perfect properties for home textiles, work wear, uniforms and camouflage. COLARIS is also used for high-pile applications like polyester blankets and tufted or woven carpet products out of polyester or nylon. TEXtalks: How is the response from the visitors during Techtextil? Tony NASCHBERGER: This show develops extremely good for us, because firstly we meet a lot of our existing customers, but there are also a number of

new contacts with potential customers which are interested in our technology. Especially VAT printing attracts the visitors, because we are the only one in the industry offering such a solution. TEXtalks: How do you see the future of technical textiles? Tony NASCHBERGER: I think everybody is going for technical textiles, because we see the range of applications growing very fast. All our customers are looking for a way to become more individual in comparison to the mass printing and coating market. We see also a very good potential for digital printing and coating on technical textiles. TEXtalks: What does sustainability mean to ZIMMER AUSTRIA? Tony NASCHBERGER: I think sustainability is not just a temporary keyword. I think every company is in need of sustainability, because companies will not survive without sustainability. TEXtalks: How does ZIMMER AUSTRIA see industry 4.0 digitalization? Tony NASCHBERGER: Concerning 4.0 digitalization, I think every company is going in this direction. Technology is digital, so the whole world will be digital - it will come. Either you are going in this direction, or you are disappearing. TEXtalks: How do you see the Pakistan market for ZIMMER AUSTRIA’s products? Tony NASCHBERGER: Pakistan has always been an important market for ZIMMER AUSTRIA – today especially for denim coating using our MAGNOJET applicator. On the digital side, Pakistan is not jet so important for ZIMMER AUSTRIA, because we are more on the high-end side and in specialties. But we also see tendencies that Pakistan is moving upwards.

MA Textiles expands into digital production with first printer

SPGPrints JAVELIN

“The JAVELIN will give MA Textiles a powerful tool to meet today’s demands for fast turnarounds, short runs, and crisp detail.”Salman Hydrie Managing Director - SPGPrints Pakistan MA Textiles, one of Pakistan’s leading textile printing manufacturers, is enhancing its service flexibility and design offerings after installing an SPGPrints JAVELIN® digital printer, at its Shahdara facility, near Lahore. The installation is the first JAVELIN to go into full production in the country. The JAVELIN printer, which uses scanning print technology, was ordered at ITM Istanbul last year. MA Textiles was looking for a digital solution to meet

today’s rapidly changing demands. “Digital printing is able to handle shorter runs and faster job changeovers, and this was something we knew we needed,” said Mr. Naveed, CEO of MA Textiles. “We decided to invest in the SPGPrints JAVELIN because of its advantages in terms of quality and reliability. “First, we print a significant amount of cotton.

Working with cotton results in the formation of lint that can clog nozzles of the print heads. With SPGPrintsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; patented technology, ink is circulated in the print head. This makes the print heads more durable and longer-lasting,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Secondly, SPGPrints offers a 30-month warranty, which is much longer than the other systems we were looking at. This was also the most important factor affecting our JAVELIN investment.â&#x20AC;? The JAVELIN digital printer uses the proven Fujifilm Dimatix Samba print heads. The ink circulation fuction inside the print heads is part of SPGPrintsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ArcherÂŽ technology that enables variable ink drops (from 2pL-10pL) to be fired up to 4mm from the substrate. This enables the use of a very wide range of textiles because the high jetting distance means that thicker, coarser and piled textiles can be printed, without damaging the print head. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Colour is another reason for printing digitally,â&#x20AC;? Mr. Naveed continued. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With conventional printing, the number of colours that can be printed is limited; with digital, there are no limits, and smaller designs can be printed with fine detail.â&#x20AC;? MA Textiles is a family business that began as a dyeing house in Karachi. As it added customers, it also added printing and finishing services. Its products include towels, home textiles, apparel and fabrics. Each of the the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s departments is capable of cutting and stitching up to 15,000 metres per day. The addition of the JAVELIN will give MA Textiles a digital printing capacity of two million linear metres per year. Moreover, thanks to the pinterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minimial setup times, the company will be well-placed to offer shorter production runs and reduced lead-times, cost-effectively. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are planning to bring our digitally printed textiles to the retail market at the end of 2017. Our dyeing customers have reacted with enthusiasm to our digital printing investment, and the value it brings them. Explaining the benefits of SPGPrintsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; technology is not so difficult, as the company has a strong reputation for high-performance textile machines in Pakistan.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;MA Textiles is a leading Pakistani textile supplier, and its knowledge of all aspects of textile production gives its selection of the JAVELIN printer a special significance,â&#x20AC;? said Salman Hydrie, managing director of SPGPrints Pakistan Pvt Ltd. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The JAVELIN will give MA Textiles a powerful tool to meet todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demands for fast turnarounds, short runs, and crisp detail.â&#x20AC;?

ArioPrint

The digital Revolution

Arioli Group was established in 2012 with the merger between the metalworking company Arioli S.p.A., Brazzoli S.p.A. and the Austrian MHM GMBH.

roll-to-roll digital printing machine designed by Arioli’s R&D Team.

Being one step ahead, thanks to the continuous innovation research developed by 20 technicians and engineers nowadays working in the R&D department, Arioli Group has today insert into its portfolio new products for each brand (Arioli, Brazzoli and MHM) and applied improvements to the existing one.

Arioli presented its new machine as the fastest printer for this segment, allowing the customer to choose between multiple resolutions combinations. The two models of the machine, ArioPrint-8® and ArioPrint-16®, are scanning printers with either 8 printing heads in 2 rows or 16 printing heads in 4 rows.

Year 2016 has been a real turning point for Arioli which placed on the market ArioPrint-16®, a

They incorporate 300dpi native resolution Kyocera's KJ4B printing head which are “double channel”; that

means they are 16 but with 2 different colours in each single head. ArioPrint-16® can print from 300x300dpi to 1200x1200dpi. In the meantime, it also allows the customer to eventually choose any other possible combination (for example 300x600dpi or 600x900dpi). The stiffness of the steel monolithic structure ensures essential precision for optimum printing results guaranteed over time. The use of optical fibers enables reaching high speed and data transfer between PC and printing heads. ArioPrint-16® is also synonymous of flexibility; in fact, the machine is equipped with an “open system”, in which both the rip software and the inks can be chosen based on customer needs. Furthermore, the Arioli digital printer allows a full 2-meter printing width on woven and knitted fabrics with flexible resolutions. If you are looking for maximum speed without compromising the best jetting precision, ArioPrint is your best choice. Operational from two major cities of Pakistan i.e. Lahore and Karachi the TEXSOL (PVT) LTD. covers the textile regions in southern and northern Pakistan. The company is the sole distributor and dealer of Arioli’s Products in Pakistan. With the high end technical knowledge and team of experienced professionals, the TEXSOL successfully stands at a prominent position in the textile market. By stress on the product and sales management the TEXSOL strives to build strong relationships within the company and the textile market. TEXSOL holds expertise in selling wide range of textile solutions. For more details about Arioli’s products, pls contact TEXSOL (Private) Limited | 91-Indus, Green Forts II, Canal Bank Road, Thokar, Lahore | Email: amir.mirza@texsol.pk

ONE PROVIDER THOUSANDS SOLUTIONS Weaving machines. WEAVING

www.santexrimar.com

Reports

Outlook for Digital Textile Printing The textile printing industry represents 30 billion square meters of material volume on an annual basis worldwide. Most commercially available fabric is rotary screen printed; each print run is typically several thousand yards. The high minimums are due to the cost and time required to prepare a unique set of screens, with each colour in a design requiring a separate screen. Digital Textile printing is a technique of applying colour to fabric in a particular design and pattern. Digital textile printing technology allows designs and images to be printed straight from the computer screen onto fabric creating exciting opportunities for customised design and allowing photographic quality reproduction onto natural fibres, such as silk, wool, linen and cotton. Industry data shows that after a decade of advances in digital printing technologies for textile, less than 3% of the world’s printed textiles are produced digitally. 25% of digital printing on textiles is done today mainly on polyester fabrics using dye sublimation.

Digital inkjet printing has become one of the most important textile production printing technologies and is, in fact, transforming the industry. It has been influencing new workflows, business plans and creative processes. The primary advantage of direct digital textile printing is to eliminate rapid prototyping of textile designs and products and eliminate the need for the traditional time consuming and expensive sampling process. it is no longer necessary to colour separate a design, enabling much more complex and subtle effects to be produced than have previously been possible. The carrying of stock, with the associated cost

implications, is not required as designs can be printed on demand. Lead times and start-up costs are minimal compared to conventional printing and quantities as small as 1 metre can be provided. Double digit growth across 2016-2021, is expected to make digital textile printing one of the most exciting market opportunity in the print and textile supply sectors according to the latest exclusive market data from Smithers Pira. The Future of Digital Textile Printing to 2021 values this global market at €1.17 billion in 2016 with growth forecast at an annual average of 12.3% for 2016-2021. This will see the market more than double in value over five years, reaching €2.66 billion in 2021. Smithers’ exclusive analysis tracks how this will drive an even more rapid increase in the volume of fabric printed with inkjet equipment – from 870 million m² in 2016 to 1.95 billion m² in 2021 – a 17.5% CAGR. In 2016 for textiles the market share for digital processes is 2.8% of overall volume. As this develops, major print companies are increasingly taking an interest in the textile segment, fostering the development of new business models, printheads, inks, media, and high throughput machinery. Based on application, the display segment has witnessed major growth in 2016 owing to increase in demand for touch panels and special effects applications. Displays and signage are growing somewhat more slowly –from a larger base – but will maintain double digit annual growth across the Smithers study period, which will convert into the largest absolute increase in value for 2016-2021. However, clothing and household segments are expected to create lucrative growth opportunities for digital printing inks market owing to increase in textile and household decorative applications. The greatest acceleration across clothing is expected to be in the key sub-segments of fashion, haute couture and sportswear. Household textiles are predicted to grow at the next fastest rate. Technical textiles will lose ground slightly, which is indicative of a lack of visibility of, or focus on, these smaller niche markets. Considerable research and development currently is being conducted on printed electronics in flexible circuitry. Conductive printing would support consumer products for wearables and

interior e-textiles designed for health and fitness monitoring, self-cleaning, and communication. Global textile industry dynamics are changing and the importance of Asian economies continues to increase, though there is also some backshoring/reshoring of production to North America and Europe to ensure quality in high-value applications.

Reactive Dye Digital Printing is the most versatile of the high end digital printing technologies, with its ability to print onto both silks and plant based materials (e.g. cotton, linen and bamboo) and where the print has no effect on the handle of the fabric as the dye bonds directly with the fabric fibres. This also means that reactive printing has a greater light and rub fastness than other print technologies making it perfect for apparel and home ware. The sublimation ink segment has witnessed major demand owing to increase in demand for dye-sublimation printer in computer printing applications. Furthermore, the demand for pigment-based inks is projected to witness growth owing to its excellent archival print life coupled with colour stability. Digital fabric printing can completely customise and personalise the fabrics. Compared to almost a year required for design-to-market in traditional printing; with digital printing itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to go from the design stage to finished fabric in a matter of weeks. These possibilities are the strengths to offer on-demand manufacturing of customised designs. The major downside to digital printing is the cost which is mainly attributed to low production speeds and high cost of the inks. As with any new technology, the costs are always high when it first becomes available. As time goes on and the

post-treatment. To date the huge reduction in water and power consumption when using digital textile printing has not been a key driver for adoption of the technology. The increasing awareness of the environmental savings that digital printing offers compared to traditional methods is a long-term prospect for the success of the digital industry.

technology continues to develop it is likely to become more affordable. As of now, the digital printing process is significantly slower than the conventional printing techniques. For large parties of fabric and limited requirements of colours and details, the conventional printing techniques remain the most cost-effective. Digital printing is an innovative development which has considerably improved the sustainability. Digital printing is an inkjet-based application of colourants onto textile materials. It is a clean technology because of a high degree of utilization of printing inks and minimum water and energy consumption during

The two key factors in the future growth are customisation and dynamics of the textile supply chain. The industry is led by changing consumer demand, particularly in Western markets where personalisation and individualisation helped industries such as Direct-to-Garment printing. The other key factor comes from changes in the supply side of textile production. As brands and manufacturers have looked to remain profitable in a tougher economic climate, both rising wages and higher transportation costs have squeezed the profitability of products made in the Far East. As countries such as China and India have grown, the growing middle class and gradual move towards a service-driven economy have quickly increased the average wage, making it both more expensive to produce labour-intensive products but also creating a large local market, thus increasing competition. This has led to many companies expanding their sourcing into even lower cost markets such as Bangladesh, Vietnam and Central America but digital also offers a secondary solution by lowering the labour cost input into production.

207-18 Budget and its imapact on Textile Sector The federal budget of Pakistan was proposed on May 26, 2017 with a total outlay of the budget is Rs. 5, 104 billion, with resource availability during 2017-18 estimated at Rs 4,714 billion. The development expenditure for next year will be Rs. 1,001 billion, 40 percent higher than the Rs. 715 billion allocation last year. Since current government has been in office, the economy has exhibited an overall positive trend. The per capita income today stands at $1,629 as compared to $1,334, four years ago. The inflation was on average 12% between 2008-13. In this current year inflation is expected to be around 4.3%. To some extent, the slump in international oil prices have contributed to this. The GDP Growth at 5.28% this year is the highest in the past decade. Four yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ago, the economic growth was 3.68%. The size of the economy has surpassed $300 billion. The industrial production grew by 5.02% and businesses are now hiring additional workers. Exports during the first ten months of current year have shown an overall minor decrease of 1.28% compared to 7.8% decline during the same period last year. The government has associated this reversal to timely support to exporters in shape of a comprehensive package of Rs.180 billion in January 2017 and commitment of the exporters. The major

beneficiary of the said package was assumed to be the textile industry. Energy production was severely depressed for more than 10 years due to chronic under-investment, inefficiencies in the power network and an inability to collect sufficient revenue to cover costs. It was also reinforced that by summer 2018, nearly 10,000MW of electricity will be added to the national grid, eliminating load-shedding completing. Budget for the Textile Sector Pakistani Textile Manufacturing Sector contributes 8.50% of the national income. Cotton is the prime crop of Pakistan and makes the textile industry the most significant industry of the country. The textile industry contributes more than 60% of the total export earnings of the country. The sector constitutes 46% of the total manufacturing and provides 38% of the manufacturing labour force. The new measures proposed in the FY 2017-18 begun on July 1, 2017 are: 1. To stabilise cotton prices in the country, a system of cotton hedge trading for the domestic cotton will be initiated in consultation with stakeholders; 2. In consultation with public and private stakeholders, the government will launch Brand Development fund for textile sector;

3. The approval process of establishment of 1,000 stitching units has been completed and its implementation will start during FY 2017-18 and shall be completed in three years; 4. Textile Ministry will launch the first ever online textile business/trade portal for textiles using B2B (business to business) and B2C (business to consumer) mode. This will bring Pakistan textiles’ value chain in line with global marketing practices. 5. The import duty on nonwoven fabric (used in the pharmaceutical sector for manufacturing of bandages, surgical gowns, wound dressings, etc.) was proposed to be reduced from existing 16 per cent to 5 per cent. The minimum wage of labour is being increased from Rs 14,000 to Rs 15,000 per month. All the measures announced in FY2016-17 like duty-free import of textile machinery will continue in FY2017-18. The recap of key measures in the past is below • The mark-up rate on Long Term Finance Facility has been gradually reduced from 11.4pc in June 2013 to 6pc for exporters and 5pc for textile sector. • Duty free import of textile machinery is allowed; • Uninterrupted supply of electricity and gas is ensured for the textile sector; • Technology Up-gradation Fund (TUF) Scheme 2016-19 for the textile sector has been introduced; • Prime Minister's package for exporters was announced in January 2017 in which the centre-piece is the textile sector; • The government made five export oriented sectors - including textile, leather, sports goods, surgical goods and carpets - as part of zero-rated sales tax regime last year. Industry’s Response The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) said that the budget 2017-18 has disappointed the textile industry as the government has not announced implementation of the proposals given by the industry. Chairman APTMA Punjab Syed Ali Ahsan, former chairman APTMA Gohar Ejaz and Ali Pervez Malik addressed a press conference, after announcement of the proposed budget. The textile industry had demanded following of the government. • To provide gas to the system at regionally competitive rate of Rs. 400/MMB • To remove levy of GIDC and electricity rate for independent feeders and provide it at the rate of Rs. 7 KWH • To release export refunds. • To pay the remaining amount of Rs. 180 billion as per the Prime Minister's Export Led Growth Package according to which the government has to pay Rs 10 billion per month whereas only Rs. 2 billion has been released so far during the last four months.

Syed Ali Ahsan said this seemed an election budget, as current year is the last year of government 5-year tenure. He said the government is not serious in increasing the GDP growth rate as it has not given any incentives to the industry without which their dream of economic growth could not be materialized. Former chairman APTMA Gohar Ejaz appreciated the resolve of the government and hoped that the industry will get incentives including uninterrupted power supply. He said affordability but not availability of power is the real issue. He said hopefully the government will release sales tax refunds of the industry by August 2017 as announced by Federal Minister Ishaq Dar in the budget speech. He was optimistic that the government will release tax refunds in 90 days. APTMA leader Ali Pervez Malik suggested that the government should have focused on solving the issues of current account deficit and trade deficit otherwise it is feared it has to go for another IMF program. The government should ensure zero rating of all inputs in true spirit including packaging materials, spare parts and fuel and energy, he further opined. APTMA said, the government is not serious about implementing the Rs. 180 billion Prime Minister's export led growth package as the government has allocated only Rs. 4 billion next year. It was further said that due to wrong government policies, the country’s merchandise trade deficit has reached $31 billion -- the highest in the history of Pakistan. The country’s exports, which was to the tune of $25 billion in 2013, has come down to $20 billion in 2017. The cost of doing business has increased despite considerable decrease in oil prices, in the international market the price of electricity has doubled. He said they were getting electricity at Rs 6.76 Kwh where as in 2017 electricity stands at Rs. 11.30 Kwh. Payment of all pending refunds of sales tax, which is more than Rs. 200 billion resulting in creation of severe liquidity problem to the industry, duty drawbacks and incentive schemes claims should also be made without any delay. The demands included to reduce the Turn Over Tax to 0.25 per cent from existing 1 percent and to advise commercial banks to provide long term loans and working capital to the textile industry at competitive rates. Though the government’s support is instrumental but sector also needs to adopt an innovative and radical policy. Especially, to capture the losing share of China in the apparel sector as the cost of production in China becomes less competitive. Bangladesh (with advantage of being a least developed country, LDC, status) and Vietnam have done extremely well in recent years to do so. In addition, the sector also need to seriously explore avenues in the nonwovens and technical textiles.

Italian Textile Machinery Industry An overview and links with Pakistan Italian textile machinery industry: figures In Italy, there are approximately 300 companies who produce textile machines and related accessories, for a total of about 12,000 employees. In 2016 the value of Italian production was Euro 2.7 billion, with exports worth Euro 2.3 billion. 2016 figures of production and export could register a further growth.

divided as follows: Asia (47%), followed by Europe (35%), North America (8%), Latin America (7%) and Africa (3%).

At a world level Italy is one of the main suppliers of textile machinery together with Germany, China, Japan and Switzerland. Italian market share on the world exports of textile machinery is about 11%.

172 million), India (Euro 135 million) and Bangladesh (Euro 110 million).

The wide supply of Italian textile machinery manufacturers let them face the needs of all the potential customers. Exports represent 85% of total sales, realized in about 130 destination countries. This process of internationalization, together with the vocation for innovation in the sector, allowed Italian companies to consolidate and further improve the leading position held by the Italian textile machinery industry all over the world. In 2016 Italian exports of textile machines was

The biggest contribution to the Italian exports of textile machinery came from China. In 2016 Italian exports toward Chinese market amounted to a value of Euro 308 million. China is followed by Turkey (Euro

The supply of Italian manufacturers covers all the classic sectors into which we can divide textile

machines. Italian sales abroad are divided among these main sectors: 32% dyeing, finishing and printing machines, 22% accessories, 22% spinning machines, 11% knitting machines, 8% weaving machines and 5% other machines.

Links with Pakistani textile industry Pakistan is an important market for textile machinery. In 2016 the Italian sales in Pakistani market totalled a value of Euro 80 million, with an increase of 71% on the same period of the previous year. ACIMIT profile ACIMIT is a private national body that brings together most of Italian textile machinery companies (that account for about 80% of the whole Italian textile machinery production). The Association main purpose consists in promoting the Italian textile machinery and in supporting the activity of our member companies, mainly abroad. ACIMIT organizes exhibitions, technical seminars, missions in Italy and abroad and so on. The majority of these activities are carried out in cooperation with Italian Trade Agency and Italian Ministry of Economic Development. ACIMIT is a member of CEMATEX (ComitĂŠ EuropĂŠen des Constructeurs de Machines Textile), that groups more than 600 companies in Europe. One of the fundamental tasks of Cematex is the organization and allocation of ITMA, the most important specialized fair worldwide in the textile machinery industry. Information about Italian textile machinery companies, their products, contact data and more can be found on ACIMIT website (www.acimit.it).

The most requested Italian machines were the finishing ones (53% of the total export towards Pakistan), followed by spinning (23%) and accessories (12%). Italian Textile Machinery Exports to Pakistan by Categories (2016) Due to the relevance of this market ACIMIT, in cooperation with Italian Trade Agency, has set up over the years an intensive program for increasing contacts between operators from the two Countries, including incoming missions of Pakistani delegates in Italy and some technological workshops in the Country.

Whats New

develops new swim range using regenerated ocean waste Once collected, pre- and post-consumer Nylon waste material – fishing nets, discarded carpets, plastic components, fabrics scraps – goes through the Econyl Regeneration System. Products are then finished with Adidas’ unique Infinitex+ Pulse and flat lock seams, enabling the range to be 100% chlorine resistant for training support and the high level of comfort. Sportswear brand Adidas has announced a partnership with Aquafil, a leading producer of Nylon 6 for carpets and apparel, to use the company’s 100% regenerated Econyl fibre in the Spring/Summer 2017 Parley Hero swim range. The regenerated waste still offers the same qualities as materials usually found in wider swim apparel. The garments are durable, lightweight and breathable but with the additional environmental benefits of using regenerated waste, the company reports. Made from 100% up-cycled nylon waste materials, Econyl is said to be suitable for creating high-quality garments that are durable, lightweight, breathable and environmentally friendly. Econyl is said to offer the same quality and performance as traditionally manufactured nylon and can be recycled an infinite number of times without any loss in quality, according to the manufacturer.

The first bio-based car on tour TU/Ecomotive – a student team at Eindhoven University of Technology in the Netherlands – has worked with Leuven, Belgium-based EconCore to create the lightweight chassis of Lina, billed as the world’s first car made from a combination of bio-based composites and bio-plastics. The bio-based composite is made from flax and is said to have a strength/weight ratio similar to that of glass fibre. EconCore’s technology for the cost-effective, continuous production of thermoplastic honeycomb materials contributed the bio-plastic honeycomb based on Nature Works PLA. The PLA 100% biodegradable resin core is placed in-between two flax fibre composite sheets to provide a sandwich panel effect with high stiffness and strength at minimal weight.

Deewear, the Italian-based sportswear company, has launched D-One, a new generation of sportswear that combines the innovative benefits of postural compress fabric with the properties of Graphene Plus (G+) by Directa Plus, a producer and supplier of graphene-based products for use in consumer and industrial markets. D-One consists of three highly-performant technical layers: an inner layer coated in G+, an external layer of smart compress fabric and, in the advanced range, a middle layer that provides muscle articulation and postural support. The new collection includes short sleeve t-shirts and leggings, which are available as a Basic and Advanced version, in different sizes and as a male or female fit. The internal side of the fabric, which is in direct contact with the skin, is printed with G+, which provides D-One with thermal properties to regulate body temperature, as well as offering anti-odour and bacteriostatic features and protection against ultraviolet rays. It achieves this without the use of any chemicals as Graphene Plus is natural, chemical-free and certified as non-toxic, the company reports. The primary layer of D-One is the external ultra-light layer in smart compress fabric that is said to have great technical features thanks to its innovative mesh of Nylon and Elastane combined to create a special open honeycomb structure. This is said to allow for die cut and seamless production of external layer, providing extra comfort and a second-skin effect, breathability, freshness and hygiene.

EconCore and DuPont develop ultra-light photovoltaic panel Armageddon Energy, EconCore and DuPont joined forces to create a new lightweight polymer solar panel, which is said to be one-third the weight of a standard glass solar panel while being more rugged and resistant to damage than standard panels. The high-performance solar panel and the team that developed it aim to represent combined innovations in materials, manufacturing and product design, all

focused on delivering new and better products to commercial and residential customers in solar, the companies report. The key advantages of the Armageddon solar panel design are said to include 70 to 80% lower weight, minimal need for cleaning, greatly improved resistance to typical kinds of damage suffered by solar panels and unique adaptiveness to challenging applications.

Whats New

Deewear launches first compression sportswear collection with Directaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s G+

Hexcel to supply advanced composites for Airbus Hexcel Corporation will extend its 40-year partnership with Airbus Helicopters by supplying composite materials for the new H160 helicopter. Hexcel’s reinforcements, prepregs, adhesives and honeycomb materials have been selected for the H160’s composite fuselage structures and main rotor blades. The H160 was designed by Airbus Helicopters to create added value for customers in terms of performance, economic competitiveness, safety and comfort. The use of Hexcel’s composite materials throughout the structure (fuselage, tail boom, tail

rotor and main rotor blades) contributes to the lightweight fuel-saving design and performance optimization. “Hexcel’s composite materials have been used in Airbus Helicopters’ programs for many years and we are honored to be continuing our long term relationship, based on innovation and continuous improvement” commented Thierry Merlot, Hexcel President Aerospace EMEA-AP. “We thank Airbus Helicopters for their selection and look forward to our ongoing supply of high performance, weight saving composites materials for this innovative rotorcraft”.

Hyosung to launch new MIPAN Robic fine yarns Hyosung, a leader in innovative nylon fibres, will be launching new fine denier, high tenacity MIPAN Robic Fine to meet customer’s demand for lightweight, durable fabrics and garments. The new yarn family ranges from 7 to 15 denier and are 15-20% higher tenacity than regular nylon in same deniers in order to achieve stronger fabrics with higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance, the company reports. “Consumers want garments, backpacks, shells, and sleeping bags to be lightweight but long lasting so we expanded the MIPAN Robic high tenacity yarn collection to include fine deniers,” said Roman Park, MIPAN Robic product manager. “Higher tenacity extends wear life and protective performance for outdoor apparel, workwear, bags and accessories.”

New method for testing PCM efficiency in textiles Phase Change Materials (PCM) play an important role in modern textiles. The Hohenstein Institute has investigated how effective PCM products are with the help of the WATson Heat Loss Tester. Whether for sports or outdoor wear, personal protective clothing or for bed linen: PCM textiles are becoming increasingly popular. But the greater The number of applications, the greater the demands made on textiles containing PCM. How is the effect they promise perceived by the wearer of such textiles? Until now there has not been any

clothing-related physiological method of measuring this. Physical measurements were only able to indicate changes in temperature. A research project currently underway at the Hohenstein Institute has developed the first measuring method that allows the effect and efficacy of PCM in textiles to be tested without costly wearer trials. This new test method has not only made it more simple to demonstrate the functionality of textiles, but also to offer proof of quality. This research project involved testing PCM-containing products from the market and coating textile samples with varying quantities of PCM.

Polartec introduces Polartec Power Fill Polartec LLC, a premium provider of innovative textile solutions, has announced the upcoming launch of Polartec Power Fill insulation fabric technology that rounds out the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s range of temperature-regulating performance fabrics. Polartec Power Fill is a soft and pliable matrix of spun polyester yarns engineered with a proprietary hollow fibre construction that is softer and more durable, forming thousands of air pockets that continuously capture and contain body heat, while maintaining a resilient, equalised thermal layer between the colder air on the outside and the warmer temperatures on the inside, the manufacturer explains.

A unique controlled melt process bonds the hollow fibres, increasing durability and drapability, eliminating the need for scrims or other stabilisers. This is said to give Power Fill unmatched warmth and design versatility for a wide range of styles and usage occasions. The polyester fibreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inherent hydrophobic properties also work to ensure that Polartec Power Fill resists moisture absorption and dries quickly, while maintaining a high warmth to weight ratio. Made with cruelty-free, 80% post-consumer recycled content, Power Fill insulation technology is said to provide greater warmth retention in colder conditions, without added weight or bulk.

PrimaLoft Performance Fabrics PrimaLoft performance fabrics are said to have fast dry times, enhanced breathability, a superior hand-feel and softness, with many products blue-sign and oeko-tex certified. Primaloft has organized its fabric technologies into five series, offering a wide range of fabrics suitable for next-to-skin, mid and outer layer applications.

The series are: touch series, with a focus on softness and warmth; vista series, provides stylish, durable textures; energy series, ideal for active garments; balance series, with multi-layered weather resistant fabrics, and genuine series, with natural fibre blends. Primaloft is also introducing the new cashmere blend base layer fabric â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the first in next-to-skin fabrics to be released.

New slash-resistant backpack made with Honeywell Spectra Honeywell has announced that the same Spectra fibre technology used in protective vests for law enforcement is now available to shield the belongings of everyday consumers from thieves who slash bags to steal items. Loctote Industrial Bag Company designed a theft-resistant drawstring backpack called the Flak Sack. Suitable both for travel and for daily use, the new cut-resistant bag is enhanced with Spectra fibre technology used in bullet-resistant vests. It utilises Spectra in a unique fabric construction called FLAKnit created by Tuff-N-Lite, a division of Supreme Corporation, a leading textile and fibre technology company. Durable, yet flexible, the product is designed to be used in a range of situations such as travel, hiking and everyday use

such as commuting to work. Spectra fibre is made from ultra-high molecular-weight polyethylene using a patented gel-spinning process. The versatile material is used in a wide variety of applications including ballistic-resistant armour, professional fishing lines, and industrial-strength ropes and increasingly in performance textile applications. It is said to be 15 times stronger than steel, yet light enough to float, whilst offering a high cut-resistance level, the company reports. Additional security features, such as radio-frequency identification (RFID) blocking material, a heavy-duty brass and steel lock, and break-resistant, steel-reinforced nylon straps aim to ensure that Flak Sack has the best combination of features to protect against theft.

Polish researchers develop textronics solution to treat patients with electrodes A group of researchers from the Lodz University of Technology (LUT) has developed a prototype textronics solution that allows the integration of muscle-stimulating electrodes within various types of clothing, such as underwear, wristbands and socks, and use it to treat patients with various diseases that require such stimulation. The developed solution offers an alternative to traditional rehabilitation

sessions, allowing patients to treat a wide range of conditions without visiting healthcare institutions. The main aim of the project was to develop textile electrodes to facilitate muscle electro-stimulation. Typically, therapies which use electro-stimulation to treat patients are carried out at rehabilitation centres after limb injuries, contusions, arthritis, spinal pain, and other similar health issues.

Woolmark and max mara develop wool denim Max Mara and The Woolmark Company have developed an innovative Wool Denim line for Max Maraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wool-rich Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, celebrating the unique qualities of Australian Merino wool. Max Mara has utilised innovative 100% Wool Denim fabrics that replicate the look and style of traditional denim â&#x20AC;&#x201C; retaining the traditional 3/1 weave â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but have added benefits thanks to the natural qualities of Merino wool, including increased softness, warmth and resistance to wrinkles. The twisted, strong wool yarns have been dyed with ecological dyes to imitate natural indigo and have been tested against the stringent guidelines to gain Woolmark certification. Max Mara has always used Merino wool for its collections and this season has expanded beyond the traditional uses of wool, such as fine tailoring, heavy coats and knitwear, to showcase a different approach for the fibre and celebrate its innate versatility.

DPS World 2017 Pakistan’s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition October 20-22, 2017 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

ICTT 2017 International Conference on Technical Textiles November 9-10, 2017 Venue: National Textile University Faisalabad, Pakistan.

Shanghaitex 2017 The 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 27-30, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

DOMOTEX 2018 The leading flooring trade exhibition January 12-15, 2018 Venue: Hannover, Germany

GTex Global Expo Karachi An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo January 26-28, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR The leading flooring trade exhibition March 20-22, 2018 Venue: New International Expo Centre Pudong, Shanghai, China

ITM 2018 International Textile Machinery exhibition April 14-17, 2018 Venue: TÜYAP Fair Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul – Turkey

IGATEX Lahore 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery Exhibition April 26-29, 2018 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery Exhibition October 26-30, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) Shanghai, China.

ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain.

textalks.com/category/events.