TEXtalks International - August/September 2017 by TEXtalks International

August/September 2017

tune in to the fashion vibe with confidence

USTERÂ® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition

Learning tofocus your energy It’s hard to grow if you can’t precisely control one of weaving’s most crucial elements: energy. How much to use, when and where to apply it, these are the settings that define quality, profit and ultimately, growth. That’s why the new Picanol machines, next built, also allow you to precisely monitor and control your energy consumption.

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Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Saba Noor Alexandros Ali Khan Farooq Malik Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Mohammad Ahmed Mohammad Khan Abdul Haseeb Layouts Faizan Khan Circulation Incharge Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

GTex Global Expo in Lahore; WWF-Pakistan & APTMAs joint venture for water consumption; NTU & IBA signed MOU; Textile Industry held responsible for its bleak The GTex Global Expo-A three day textile event was held in Expo center Lahore. Leaders from textile industry presented the latest technologies at the event. The event was inaugurated by Amjad Ali Java (LCCI). Around 109 national and international companies form the textile industry exhibited their products with around 417 brands displaying their products at the event. About 73 international delegates from 32 countries were present at the three day event who visited the 370 stall on the event venue. The event witnessed thousands of visitors from textile sector and showed great interest in the exhibited products and the latest technologies that were brought to the platform, from around the globe. The WWF-Pakistan & APTMA joint venture for sustainable water consumption was initiated in Pakistan in August 2017. The World Wide Fund for Nature Pakistan held a seminar at APTMA House where the exporters placed an emphasis on the need of suitable water consumption in the textile sector in Pakistan. The event was part of the International Labor and Environmental Standards (ILES) Application in Pakistan’s SMEs project, funded by the European Union and being implemented by WWF-Pakistan in collaboration with the International Labor Organization (ILO). The National Textile University, Faisalabad (NTU) has entered into a

collaborative partnership with Institute of Business Administration, Karachi (IBA) after signing a MOU for promoting entrepreneurship. The memorandum was signed by Rector NTU Professor Dr. Tanveer Hussain and Professor Dr. Farrukh Iqbal, Dean and Director IBA Karachi. Many esteemed dignitaries from Industry and Academia attended MOU signing ceremony. According to the MOU, IBA will launch “Certificate in Entrepreneurship” program in collaboration with NTU in Faisalabad. The Ministry of Energy and Power Division inked a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) on energy conservation. The government had established National Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority, which had introduced energy labeling regime aiming at production of the most efficient electrical home appliances, informed the minister of state for water and power. Textile Industry is held responsible for the damage occurred to it in the last few decades and in the current condition of textile sector in Pakistan. By ignoring the innovation, the textile industry itself has led to the current situation of declined exports said the Commerce Secretary Mohammad Younas Dagha He gave these remarks after years of criticism between the government and the industry about the continuous falling exports of Pakistan.

August/September 2017

TEXNews

Cover Story – Uster Technologies AG

Interviews William R. Bettendorf Director Supply Chain Marketing – C.C.I U.S.A

M. Anees Khawaja Director – Mahmood Group of Industries, Multan

Happenings

Corporate Highlights

Reports Cotton from Sustainable Sources

New Tools for Monitoring Textile Processes

2017 COTTON USA Quality Conference in Dubai

What’s New…

TEXEvents

at page 44

August/September 2017

News

WWF-Pakistan & APTMA joint venture for sustainable water consumption The World Wide Fund for Nature Pakistan held a seminar at APTMA House where the exporters placed an emphasis on the need of suitable water consumption in the textile sector in Pakistan. They also addressed the patterns for the consumption of the resources. The event was part of the International Labour and Environmental Standards (ILES) Application in Pakistan’s SMEs project, funded by the European Union and being implemented by WWF-Pakistan in collaboration with the International Labour Organisation (ILO). The seminar was attended by Anis-ul-Haq, Secretary General APTMA, Hammad Naqi Khan, Director General WWF-Pakistan, alongside a number CEOs of various textile industries. This seminar was a part of the international labor and environmental standards (ILSE) Application in Pakistan SEMs project. It was funded by the European Union and implemented by the WWF-Pakistan in collaboration with the ILO. This seminar was a part of the series of events for the World Water Week that was observed from 27th of August till 1st of September 2017 in Stockholm Sweden. The WWF, this year addressed the theme of “Water and Waste: reduce and reuse” from a holistic system perspective, addressing issues and challenges from all parts of the world. In this manner the WWF-Pakistan presented a

scientific research titled as “Sustainable management practices to the textile industry for growing economy.” The research was presented by senior project officer of WWFSohail Ali Naqvi. This paper highlights the analysis of implementation of the Multi Environment Agreement with the context to cost benefits and sustainable practices in the textile industry. “With Pakistan being declared a water-stressed country, its primary focus should be on strategically developing the industrial sector, especially increasing the efficiency of the textile sector with small water footprints and high added value,” said Hammad Naqi Khan, Director General of WWF-Pakistan. While APTMA secretary general Anis-ul-Haq said the textile industries should invest more in water-efficient technologies that lead to zero discharge of hazardous waste and rain water harvesting techniques. The key challenges focused on the World Water Week 2017 were regarding two sustainable development goals; improvement of water quality by reducing pollution, dumping, minimizing and eliminating the release of hazardous chemicals and materials; splitting the proportion of untreated wastewater and substantially increasing recycling and safe reuse globally.

August/September 2017

Collaboration between NTU and IBA Karachi for promoting entrepreneurship National Textile University, Faisalabad (NTU) has entered into a collaborative partnership with Institute of Business Administration, Karachi (IBA) after signing a MOU for promoting entrepreneurship. The memorandum was signed by Rector NTU Professor Dr. Tanveer Hussain and Professor Dr. Farrukh Iqbal, Dean and Director IBA Karachi. Many esteemed dignitaries from Industry and Academia attended MOU signing ceremony. Dr. Shahid Qureshi, Director Centre for Entrepreneurial Development IBA Karachi, shared the history, launch and success of IBA’s model of entrepreneurial development with the audience. According to the MOU, IBA will launch “Certificate in

Entrepreneurship” program in collaboration with NTU in Faisalabad. This award-winning Entrepreneurship model will be taught on weekends (Friday and Saturday) and will span over a period of two months. The certificate program will be taught by IBA faculty. During this period, IBA will also provide training to selected faculty members of NTU on their model of entrepreneurship and will help NTU to establish a Centre for Entrepreneurial Development in Faisalabad. Classes of first batch are expected to start in November. Exact details about application deadlines, fee structure, class schedule and eligibility criteria will be available at websites of both institutions

Government aiding exporters to enhance exports The government of Pakistan has taken concrete measures to facilitate the exporters to enhance exports. Officials from the commerce ministry told that the export package of Rs.180 billion for business community to increase exports is applicable till June 30 next year. August/September 2017

Under the package, incentives for current fiscal year would be available to those exporters who would achieve 10 percent increase in annual exports. “Rs.107.5 billion out of annual allocation have also been made for textile sector” said the official.

Kai Hughes new Executive Director of ICAC Kai Hughes is the new Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). Hughes is the 7th Executive Director in the history of the Committee since its formation in 1939. Kai Hughes was recommended to the Standing Committee of ICAC by a Task Force composed of diplomats in Washington representing nine members of ICAC. The selections in ICAC are done on merit basis rather than any geographic and national quotas. Previously Hughes was serving as a Managing

Director/CEO of the International Cotton Association (ICA), headquartered in Liverpool, UK, for the last 9 years. He has over 20 years of senior management experience in challenging environments. Mr. Hughes thanked the Standing Committee of ICAC for the honour of serving as Executive Director. He very much looks forward to leading the outstanding Secretariat and working with committed and highly capable government officials on the Standing Committee and in Coordinating Agencies, along with representatives of the private sector, to fulfil the mission of ICAC to foster a healthy cotton sector.

USAID improved skilled labor in Kenyan apparel sector USAIDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s East Africa Trade and Investment Hub started an initiative to train about 2,000 Kenyan youth for a full time sewing machine operator job. After this training the youth will be able to help tackle the issue of skilled labor that is hindering the growth of apparel industry in Kenya. Large apparel firms like Mombasa Apparel and Africa Apparel EPZ are hosting the training centers. The idea is initiated by the USAID grantee Career Readiness Social Initiative Limited which is a local subsidiary of the McKinsey Social Initiative, as per

said by the press release of the USAID. It will help sustain Kenya's apparel exports to the United States under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which was renewed recently till 2025. The training of the first group started in Mombasa and Kilifi counties while the same started in Nairobi as well. The curriculum of the training focuses on the technical and soft skills like effective communication and time management skills etc. The workforce training program will be rolled out to other countries in East Africa.

August/September 2017

Organic fibre sales increased in US by 9.2% in FY16 According to a recent published report; for 2016, the sales of organic fibres in the United States has increased to $1.4 billion, a 9.2% up from the previous year. For the said period, sales of non-food organic products have increased by almost 9% to net worth of $3.9 billion. Organic fibre, supplements and personal care products account for the bulk of those sales. The organic fibre and textiles category continue to rank as the largest non-food organic category in the $43.3 billion US market. Organic fibre sales account for almost 40% of the total $3.9 billion in organic non-food sales in 2016, according to the 2017 Organic Industry Survey. The survey was carried out by the Organic Trade Association (OTA). According to the provided data more than 200 companies were interviewed for the survey. The organic products are seemed to be appreciated among the US consumers, specifically in August/September 2017

products for wardrobes, bath and bed room range. Sufficient supplies of organic textile are challenging the organic fibre market. However, US organic cotton farmers produced a record 17,000 plus bales in 2016, to help lessen some supply concerns. There are two main categories of fibers: natural fibers and manmade fibres. While, natural fibre are the one which can be generated from plant or animal sources while that of the manmade fibers were also referred as synthetic or artificial fibers and originate from different materials. Organic cotton is now available in colorful new designs using eco-safe dyes and even color grown cotton. From colorful and whimsical baby crib sets to trendy new styles, organic cotton can be very fashionable. Farmers growing organic fiber follow standards that nurture the soil or animal from which it comes and do not use toxic insecticides, herbicides or fungicides.

Russia provides R&D grants for technical textiles

The Russian government has approved the allocation of up to 20 grants for conducting R&D activities in the field of technical textiles and industrial fabrics during 2017-2019, according to recent statements by the press office of the Russian Presidential Administration. The amount of the grants varies from US$1 million to US$10 million and in some cases, is even higher.

One of the biggest grants of US$5 million will be given to a group of scientists at the St. Petersburg State Technical University, one of Russia’s leading technical universities, which is currently involved in the design of a new type of industrial fabrics. According to the scientists, the new fabrics could be considered as a better-quality replacement for concrete, ensuring mortarless brickwork during construction works. Mikhail Aristarkhov, head of the group, said the use of new fabrics during construction allows construction companies to reduce the costs by 10%-12%. Aristarkhov added that, to date, interest in the new technology has been expressed by some leading Russian and European construction companies.

Textile industry held responsible for its bleak By ignoring the innovation, the textile industry itself has led to the current situation of declined exports said the Commerce Secretary Mohammad Younas Dagha He gave these remarks after years of criticism between the government and the industry about the continuous falling exports of Pakistan. Younas Dagha also said that “With this attitude, the textile industry cannot compete with Bangladesh and India that have increased their exports despite challenges.” While replaying a question the federal secretary accepted that the government needs to update its policies so that all major crops like cotton, rice, wheat and sugarcane get appropriate share in the total cultivation area. Dagha said that the government is taking all important diplomats and trade representatives in Europe on board to protect Pakistan’s interests in the EU to ensure the country August/September 2017

continues to enjoy tax benefits under the scheme. He also said that the government has given Rs25-30 billion to the textile exporters in the year ended on June 2017. He also informed that expected is that, the government may release about Rs70-80 billion in the current fiscal year. Out of these, about two thirds will be in the form of cash while the remaining in other forms like reducing energy tariffs etc. On the other side the former president of Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry Zubair Motiwala said that the part of government is still very important in terms of supporting the jolting exports. He also said that Indian being a major competitor has achieve the success in enhancing their cotton output and it was assisted by the Indian Government and this is something really important to gain success in any industry.

APTMA Punjab office bearers & members elected unopposed for 2017-18 The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) office bearers and the Executive Committee members have been elected unopposed for 2017-18. According to the official sources; Ali Pervaiz has been elected unopposed as Chairman APTMA Punjab for 2017-18. Also, the whole executive committee of APTMA Punjab including Adil Bashir as Senior Vice Chairman, Aamir Sheikh as Vice Chairman, Shargeel Khalid as Treasurer and Asad Kamal, Ashar Khurram, Azhar Majeed, Faisal Shafi, Muhammad Siddique, Zaeem Ahmed, Imran Ghafoor and Umair Umar have been elected as members unchallenged. Syed Ali Ahsan, the outgoing Chairman APTMA Punjab, congratulated the newly elected office bearers and members, wishing them successful journey ahead. For the said positions, no other contestant filed for the nominations against the six empty seats from Punjab region for the Central Executive Committee CEC. Therefore, Gohar Ejaz, S. M. Tanveer, Ahsan Bashir, Tanvir Gulzar and Fazal Ahmed Sh were selected from Punjab for the CEC APTMA.

All the new elected members and office bearers of the Executive Committees will take charge of their office on 29th September 2017.This is the ninth consecutive year of ruling group in the annual elections of APTMA. During the subsequent year, the APTMA management and leadership has secured Rs180 billion textile industry package from the government and presently working for its implementation in true letter and spirit. Expected is that the upcoming team will be able to take the industry ahead so far as the restoration of the viability and growth in the exports related to textile is concerned. Speaking about the matter, Gohar Ejaz expressed deep gratitude to Allah Almighty or bestowing upon his group the 9th consecutive win. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The unopposed victory of my group is a clear manifestation of the confidence reposed by the APTMA members on their leadership,â&#x20AC;? he said. The also gave best wished to the newly elected members are the central and zonal level, urging them to give their best in the larger interest of the industry and the association.

Comprehensive package employed for textile sector A new yet comprehensive package is being proposed to enhance the overall performance of the textile sector in Pakistan. While speaking to the media officials the official representative of textile ministry of Pakistan said that in this package about 7% duty drawbacks is being provided on garment and about 6% on the made ups. Processed fabric is also getting 5% and the Greige Fabric and yarn with 4% duty drawback.

He further said that the sales and duty tax on the import of cotton has also been withdrawn while there is a zero rating for export of textile machinery. He said sales tax of five export oriented sectors textile, leather, sports, goods, surgical goods and carpet has been made part of the zero rated tax regime. The official also said that the facility of duty free imports of the textile machinery will also continue while mark-up rate on the export refinance facility has also been decreased to about 3%. August/September 2017

Fall in Indian cotton yarn exports The Indian cotton yarn witnessed a fall in exports of about 9.79% in the first four months of fiscal year 2017-18. The exporters also witnessed a slow pick by Bangladesh and China who are the two major target markets working on about half of the cotton yarn shipments from India for decline. The cotton yarn exports of India were worth $916 million between the month of April and July. The exports to China that was 31% of the net export figures had declined to about 48.58% during the period. This decline has placed a risk on the substantial investments in the sector. Moreover, because of 60-65% decline in the utilization capacity that is due to the weak demand from domestic and global market said leading Indian business daily report. This report by Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council India, features the demonetization and the imposition of 5% goods and services tax for the extreme pressure that is faced by the local cotton yarn manufacturers. The reason for this situation is that most of the industry is working in an unorganized manner with the cash. The cotton yarn manufactures never paid any taxes previously so the GST compliance has brought the business to a standstill.

Memorandum of understanding between Archroma & Mehran University Archroma and Mehran University had joined hands to boost researches in textile sector; said the official sources on 15th of August, in an official press release. Archroma is a global leader in color and specialty chemicals. They now signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Mehran University of Engineering & Technology (MUET), Jamshoro, Pakistan. The MoU will pave way for cooperation initially for a five-year period.

Speaking at the occasion, Mujtaba Rahim said: “We, at Archroma, believe in continuous improvement and challenging the status quo leading to enhance sustainability especially in preserving nature and creating value for our stakeholders. Through this initiative of mutual cooperation, we will be able to share the latest knowledge and technical developments with the research team of MUET, and strengthen scholarly collaboration between MUET and Archroma.”

The partnership will explore research projects on basic indigenous textile dyes at MUET towards smart methodologies in the processing of textile dyes. The students of MUET will also get access to our hands-on training programs at Archroma Center of Excellence at Karachi. The MoU was officially signed at a ceremony recently held in Jamshoro by Prof. Dr Mohammad Aslam Uqaili, Vice Chancellor of MUET and Mujtaba Rahim of CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited.

“This partnership is going to have far-reaching impact in research projects which will bear highly positive results for MUET and Archroma. Our academic team is very enthusiastic about the mutual collaboration and look forward to interesting research outcomes. Industrial liaison of students will create confidence and the training, internships and working sessions will benefit them in their career development,” Prof. Dr Aslam Uqaili commented.

August/September 2017

Pakistan inks MoU with JICA on energy conservation The Ministry of Energy and Power Division inked a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) on energy conservation. Speaking on the occasion, Minister of State for Water and Power said the government had established National Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority, which had introduced energy labeling regime aiming at production of the most efficient electrical home appliances. Further, he said that under the program, JICA would extend support through their experts for developing an effective phasing out strategy of inefficient appliances ensuring mandatory Pakistan Energy Labeling Regime and for the study of upgrading National Power System Expansion plan. The minister also said that Pakistan had already established an accredited fan testing laboratory for labeling of efficiency of fans. He said the Pakistan Energy Label Authorisation certificates had been given to 13 fan manufacturers, who had complied with the criteria. Abid said 154,500 security stickers for Pakistan Energy Label Fans had been given and installation of all these labelled fans ultimately reduce connected load demand of 6-9MW. By widening the program for other home electrical appliances, particularly air-conditions and refrigerators, manufacturing of less efficient electrical appliances would be stopped, he added. The head of JICA delegation, Yasuhiro Tojo appreciated the efforts of the present government to overcome energy crisis and extended technical support for strengthening the energy conservation regime of Pakistan. The National Transmission and Despatch Company Limited (NTDC) has completed the construction work of 220 kV grid station and transmission line at Jhimpir for evacuation of power from wind power plants installed at Jhimpir wind cluster. By widening the program for other home electrical appliances, particularly air-conditions and refrigerators, manufacturing of less efficient electrical appliances would be stopped. A 85 km long 220 kV transmission line from Jhimpir to Tando Muhammad Khan Road Hyderabad has also been energized. Presently, 338MW power from Jhimpir Wind Cluster has been evacuated and added to the national grid against the installed capacity of 379MW of wind power plants in Jhimpir. Resultantly, the voltage level will be improved and benefit the consumers of Hesco and other parts of the Sindh.

August/September 2017

UK is Pakistan’s biggest trade partner with trading up to 2.08 bln Euros in 2016 In a statement while meeting with British High Commissioner to Pakistan Thomas Drew and the Minister of Commerce, Mohammad Pervaiz Malik said that the United Kingdom (UK) is Pakistan’s biggest trade partner in Europe with bilateral trade amounting to 2.08 bn Euros in 2016. Bilateral trade between Pakistan and UK has increased from 1.5 bn Euros in 2013 to 2.08 bn Euros in 2016 that represents an increase of 39%. Mohammad Pervaiz Malik said that it is a matter of satisfaction for both sides that bilateral trade has been increasing over a period of time. “Pakistan’s inclusion in EU’s “Special Incentive Arrangement for good governance and sustainable development” has been the major catalyst for

promoting bilateral trade,” Pervaiz Malik added. He further said that the UK has remained a great supporter and trading partner to the Pakistani products in the EU. He also linked this support to the inclusion of Pakistan in the EU’s GSP+ Scheme in 2014 and then for a successful review in 2016 by the EU Parliament. “Pakistan appreciates the government of UK’s decision to maintain the enhanced level of market access available to Pakistan in EU under its GSP+ Scheme after formal exit from the EU”, the minister added. Pakistan’s exports to UK reached 1.3 billion euros while imports from UK were 756 million Euros, he added

PRGMEA for revision of textile policy Ijaz Khokhar, the Central Chairman Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) said that the preparation of sector wise policies is the only helpful solution to escape continuous decline and alleviate textile exports in Pakistan.

sector is facing a limited product line for the export market. "Our value added products are unable to fetch high value due to poor packaging and under the circumstances there is need of setting up a product and packaging centre for ensuring better packaging", he added.

The chairman of PRGMEA said that; "We are pressing government to review its Textile Policy to enable textile sector attain the targets" proceeding his discussion he also added that the government must take steps to eliminate the hurdles in stabilization of textile exports in Pakistan. "We understand that formulation of sector wise policies is the only remedial solution to avoid decline and to stabilize the exports", he repeated.

He said that at present there are about 125 exporters of martial art apparent in Sialkot and the city was earning about 400 million USD. The efforts were in the pipeline for bringing a boost in the exports for about 1billion USD by the year 2020, he added. However the Research and Development was weak because of the high costs of utility and allied factors, said the Chairman PREGMA, under these circumstances the government must need to announce special R&D support fund for innovation and development of new products and the up gradation of the work places in textile industry.

Ijaz also said that because of the lack of availability of the latest fabric in the local market, the garment August/September 2017

USTER® QUANTUM 3

Fast forward to a million… boosts clearer sales to early milestone The world-leading USTER® QUANTUM 3 generation of yarn clearers is set to reach a notable milestone in the autumn months, when the one millionth unit will be produced at USTER headquarters in Switzerland. The market success of the clearer has been accelerated by the launch of the latest version of the USTER® QUANTUM 3, which offers new features targeting intelligent quality management at specific fashion-oriented applications. USTER is preparing to celebrate the production of its one millionth USTER® QUANTUM 3 clearer, which has enjoyed unprecedented sales since its launch in 2010. Pioneering concepts such as Smart Limits and the YARN BODY have made the clearer an attractive choice for more than thousand mills worldwide, and the introduction of the USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition in 2015 has increased that appeal significantly. On-trend… and on-quality Spinning mills need to act fast to take advantage of important fashion trends. But yarns which hit the spot in terms of aesthetic appeal must also meet the exacting quality standards required in certain of these specialized applications. The latest edition of the successful USTER® QUANTUM 3 yarn clearer addresses both these demands, thanks to new features which allow spinners to deliver yarns which are on-trend and also on-quality. Core Yarn Clearing and Color/Shade Variation are unique innovations which put spinners in control of quality and avoid claims and complaints in important applications such as stretch denim and sportswear, and in the newly-fashionable market August/September 2017

for mélange and subtly-colored yarns. The Core Yarn Clearing feature with USTER® QUANTUM 3 is the first-ever automated solution to monitoring and assuring the quality of yarns with an elastane center encased by a cotton or synthetic outer. Fabrics with stretch and fancy slub effects created in this way continue to be extremely popular in both fashion items such as denim jeans and in functional garments and sports clothing. Common problems when producing these yarns can occur when the inner elastane component is either missing or positioned off-center within the wrapper element. The Core Yarn Clearing feature uses powerful sensors and algorithms to detect any such problems and ensures that downstream customers receive a stretch yarn which perfectly meets their specifications. Using the built-in Smart Limits facility, the correct tolerances can be set quickly and easily, so that any bobbins containing core defects are blocked and removed. The new Shade Variation feature of the USTER® QUANTUM 3 overcomes several potential problems which can lead to unacceptable color and shade differences. This is particularly important for spinners operating in the growing market for mélange and color-effect yarns. Here, human error can cause bobbins of differing colors or shades to be accidentally mixed in a single yarn lot. If that occurs, the problem can be difficult or impossible to identify in the yarn with the naked eye. And a single rogue bobbin can ruin a yarn lot, leading to disastrous and conspicuous results such as a barré effect in the final fabric. The risks of a mistake are often magnified by theinsufficiently controlled process, inadequate lighting conditions in mills, and the possibility of operatives with poor eyesight or imperfect color vision. Today, latest technology in the USTER® QUANTUM 3

USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition with the introduction in 2015

and its Shade Variation (SV) facility provides a separated clearing channel which deals specifically with color deviations. When clearing limits are set, the SV feature immediately starts checking the bobbin as it runs on the winding machine, after which the Continuous Shade Variation (CSV) takes over to monitor the entire length of the bobbin, based on reference data which enables detection of even the most subtle variations in mélange yarns. Tradition of innovation “It’s more that we hoped for, how much the new Core Yarn Clearing and the Color/Shade Variation features have been appreciated. And we are proud

to have already reached the milestone this year of one million USTER® QUANTUM 3 clearers sold, thanks to this boost,” says Andreas Gantenbein, Product Manager Yarn Clearing within Uster Technologies. The effort USTER makes to maintain its strong innovation tradition has once again been recognized by spinners worldwide. This success will be celebrated on the day the one millionth clearer is produced. Whenever USTER stages an event of this type, the company reaffirms its continuing commitment to innovation. “Yarn clearers will help customers keep in step with fashion trends – and will always be developed to be a sound investment for the future,” says Gantenbein.

August/September 2017

Eliminating core yarn defects missing and off-center cores Dyed fabric comparisons highlight the effect of yarn with off-center core.

Defect-free yarn after dyeing

Core yarn producers have to deal with two potentially damaging extra quality issues: areas where the core component is either missing or off-center within the outer wrapper yarn. A case study from a spinner in South East Asia here provides an excellent illustration of how these problems can be overcome using the USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition yarn clearers. The spinning mill produces a Ne 16 yarn from 100% carded cotton for weaving, with a core element of 70D spandex. As with many core yarn spinners, this mill was facing claims and complaints from customers because of missing and off-center core. The mill then installed the unique Core Yarn Clearing option with USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition, with the aim of eradicating these problems through an investment providing rapid payback. From the system’s article settings options, the mill first selected core yarn and then – after a couple of trials – an optimum clearer setting. The system’s alarm function was set to eject any spinning bobbin with too many core-related problems, as well as maintaining regular settings August/September 2017

Yarn with off-center core after dyeing

for other aspects. In this case, the mill opted for a tolerance level of two core issues per kilometer. The event report clearly indicated both the type and dimensions of each core defect. Yarns reported to have missing or off-center core above the set limits were cut by the clearer. Subsequent examination of the rejected bobbins confirmed either missing or off-center core in those bobbins. As a double-check, yarn from the rejected bobbins with off-center core were then dyed, and a significant difference in appearance was noted, as illustrated in the comparison pictures. The mill’s experience showed that hardly any of the clearer cuts related to core issues were found not to have core defects, demonstrating that unnecessary cuts are at an absolute minimum when settings are correctly optimized. The case study is further evidence that the USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition – with its advanced capabilities for detecting core yarn defects – is a highly-effective and reliable yarn quality assurance system for spinning mills.

Mélange yarns when the slightest shade variation matters

Barré effect caused by a wrong colored bobbin

Magnified part of the defective fabric

The growing market for colored and mélange yarns brings a challenging requirement for spinners: shade variations are simply not acceptable. Mélange effects typically involve many different effects and unique designs – often produced in small lots. This can lead to problems when bobbins of different color shades are unwittingly mixed up. It can happen all too easily, for example when an unwary operator is feeding spinning bobbins to the winding machine, a single bobbin falls down and is not correctly identified afterwards.

A customer has defined the spinner’s requirement in a simple statement: “The clearer has to detect any mix-up of shades when the operator fails.” With this objective in mind, USTER organized trials in a Turkish spinning mill to challenge the new software feature in detecting very slight color deviations.

Now, a new software feature called Shade Variation (SV) – introduced with the USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition – aims to help customers prevent expensive fabric claims arising from mixed-up color shades. In many mills, especially those using stand-alone winders, the risk of operator error is high. It might be that light conditions in the mill make it difficult to see color differences properly, or an operator is not aware of the serious negative impact that a single bobbin of a different color can have. In short, even a single ‘wrong’ bobbin can cause hundreds of dollars of damage in customer quality claims.

As seen in the picture, there was virtually no difference to be seen in the packages. However, at the next manufacturing stage, as the yarns were compressed in the knitting process, the slightest color shade deviation would result in a dominant but uncontrolled barré effect, easily affecting 4 to 5 kilograms of knitted fabric.

August/September 2017

Two different blends were used for this evaluation, as follows: Type 1: 99% white viscose 1% black viscose Type 2: 98% white viscose 2% black viscose

For the shade variation feature, the USTER® QUANTUM 3 yarn clearer uses two separate clearing channels focusing on color deviations. In the trial, the start-up channel detected mixed-up bobbins after measuring just two meters of the yarn, and immediately ejected the defective

bobbins. The other clearing channel focuses on full-length monitoring of the bobbins and cuts defects where shade variations are identified. Settings for this function can be input easily by defining a clearing limit. The Shade Variation feature is then activated as soon as the yarn is running, checking the color of the bobbin, to ensure no mix-up has occurred. The initial Shade Variation (SV) limit is set closer than the Continuous Shade Variation (CSV) channel setting, which now takes over and verifies the whole length of yarn. With the CSV function,

different reference lengths run parallel. This is helpful in defining the clearing limits for mĂŠlange yarns, which obviously contain more subtle variations in shade than single-colored yarns. Some customers have asked why such an excellent feature was not available with previous generations of yarn clearers. The answer is both simple and important: Only the combination of the green and red LED light in parallel makes the great sensitivity of detection and separation possible â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and only this combination works as a reliable fallback system in case of an operator failure.

Yarns of two different color shades

August/September 2017

Working hard for success Sivakumar Narayanan, Head of Product Management and Marketing within Uster Technologies talks about two important milestones in USTER’s recent yarn clearing history. With yarn clearer sales approaching one million, he outlines the background to this remarkable success. TEXtalks: USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition was introduced at ITMA 2015. How did the market receive the new yarn clearer? Sivakumar Narayanan: Customers appreciated the efforts we made in engineering new features designed to overcome problems in two important application areas: core yarns and yarns with delicate colors and shades, such as mélange products. Reactions from spinners confirmed that USTER had analyzed the fashion trends particularly well. These new features were launched at exactly the right time to support the most efficient production of special yarns, while also maintaining attractive profit margins for spinners. In the period from ITMA Milan in 2015 to the present, the number of installations completed is proof that the USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition has been received very well in all major markets. Our customers are especially happy that quality claims for core and shade yarns have significantly reduced. TEXtalks: USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition was introduced as limited edition offering online hairiness, advanced classification and connectivity to the Total Testing Center – all free of charge. How long can customers continue to enjoy these benefits? Sivakumar Narayanan: There is good news. We are very close to reaching the original quantity limit of 300,000 yarn clearers. We are very pleased how quickly that quantity was achieved. Because of this unprecedented success, we recently decided to extend the period of free benefits for a further batch of 300,000 yarn clearers. TEXtalks: Beside the success of USTER® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition, there is another reason for USTER to celebrate. Soon the one millionth USTER® QUANTUM 3 yarn clearer will be sold – only seven years after the product launch. Sivakumar Narayanan: Yes, this is a great success for us. The yarn clearer is one of our major products and to reach a total of one million units sold, it’s incredible. It is the equivalent of equipping about 20,000 winding machines. August/September 2017

Sivakumar Narayanan

Imagine the yarn quantities produced every day by this amount of winding machines. This extensive range of coverage includes all automatic winding machine brands and translates into a very high ratio of all yarn cleared worldwide being processed by the USTER® QUANTUM 3. Actually, the chances are high that the clothes we are all wearing – everyone reading this – are defect-free because of the USTER® QUANTUM 3. The USTER® QUANTUM 3 is a huge success and it makes me personally very proud to be part of this story – which could only be written thanks to a great interdisciplinary team who have worked hard each day to create a product with advantages so obviously appreciated by the customers. TEXtalks: How will the USTER® QUANTUM 3 success story continue? Sivakumar Narayanan: USTER is geared to customers’ needs – and of course keeping an eye on the fashion trends – which is the driver for all new developments. I’m convinced that we will introduce a further product to the market which will empower our customers to even more success. I promise that we will continue to work hard towards this goal.

THE COTTON THE WORLD TRUSTS

What do cotton growers, spinner, weavers and brands have in common?

COTTON USA! Where you are in the global cotton supply chain, COTTON USA can help you enhance your business. COTTON USAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Supply Chain Marketing program and global network of Representatives is ideally equipped to match suppliers with buyers by Streaming the sourcing process, which saves you time and gives you an edge in an increasingly competitive world. COTTON USA also rewards our customers with a global licensing and promotion programs that helps to sell your products at the consumer retail level. Contact us now to became a COTTON USA licensee and participate in a strategic alliance of thousands of quality users of U.S cotton from round the world on Mazhar Hussain Mirza Pakistan Representative Cotton Council International 66-M, Gulberg III, Lahore - Pakistan. Cell: +923008487912 Tel: +924235441551 Email: mazhar@sypher.biz URL: www.cottonusa.org

Interview

An Interview with

William R. Bettendorf

Director, Supply Chain Marketing Cotton Council International, U.S.A

Cotton USA promotes U.S. cotton fibre around the globe, which works in more than 50 countries through 20 offices around the world with an aim to set global standards of purity, quality and responsibility in the cotton industry. The Director of supply chain marketing at Cotton Council International, USAâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mr William R. Bettendorf August/September 2017

shared recent developments and approaches of Cotton USA with TEXtalks International at 2017 Quality Conference in Dubai. TEXtalks: How would you compare the US cotton quality with other cottons of the world? Willaim R. Bettendorf: The quality of American cotton is very good and reason is because we base our

TEXtalks: What changes have been seen in the US cotton production map over last 10 years? Willaim R. Bettendorf: Production in United States has fluctuated; generally we remained pretty steady over the past 10 years. A little higher, somewhere a little lower, but generally our production is quite consistent in terms of where the cotton is being grown. Based on competitive commodity prices, the US cotton has shifted a little bit further out of the west and in towards central parts of the United States, around Texas. The state of Texas is now our largest cotton producing state. Second largest cotton producing state is Georgia on the east coast. If you look at the production map of the United States 10, 15 years ago you can see much larger production in the west coast in California. Unfortunately, due to higher prices for grapes, nuts and vegetables, a lot of that production of cotton has been moved out of California and into other regions. TEXtalks: What does sustainability mean to cotton USA? Willaim R. Bettendorf: Firstly, sustainability for the US cotton industry is critical. It is the only way, we can survive. Sustainability means; we are sustainable for the environment, and we are not going to damage it. Because we need the environment, in order to produce crop in the future. It has to be sustainable for our customers for the textile mills. We can’t price ourselves out of the market and we have to be able to find a price point that is sustainable for our customers. So that you can come back again to buy more US cotton in the future. Thirdly it has to be sustainable for our producers because they have to make a profit as well they have to feed their families. It’s a win-win-win combination between the buyer, the seller and, the environment, in the middle. TEXtalks: What initiatives are taken for a

sustainable fiber production by the US cotton industry? Willaim R. Bettendorf: The sustainability initiatives taken by the US cotton industry are varied. We do have a lot of practices in place in order to manage and produce sustainable cotton crop. Some of these includes, production practices such as no-tail or low-tail production in order to minimize soil erosion and water runoff. We use quite a bit of technology to look at our fields of cotton. In order to measure various things that impact the production of cotton such as water, is the field too dry or is it too wet, there could be insect damage. Using satellite technology and GPS technology or even a drone, we can take a picture of cotton fields and we can see where there is large insect infestations or where they are low so that when we go into the field in order to apply the chemicals to manage a crop whether they need a fertilizer or a pesticide or a herbicide, by using the GPS maps we can see where we need to apply those chemicals. We apply them using GPS technology tied into the tractor only where they are needed, down to about 3rd of a meter. So that tractors as it go up and down in the field, it will apply those chemicals only where they are needed. In the old days they were spread all across the field, those days are gone, we can’t do that. It’s bad for the environment, it’s bad for the workers, and it’s bad for the bank account, it’s wasteful. The cotton farmers are business people just like anybody else and buying expensive fertilizers and pesticide and herbicide, they don’t want us to spend money more than they have to so they not just going to go and spread it around without knowing that how it’s going to effect the crop.

TEXtalks: What challenges the US cotton is facing at the moment? Willaim R. Bettendorf: The challenge is that the US cotton is facing right now its not cotton from the other countries, it is polyester. When you look at the global cotton trade, the United States is the largest global supplier of raw fiber to the global mills. We are the third largest producers, behind China and India but when you look at the global exports the US is number one. Our challenge is not competitive cotton from other countries but its polyester and synthetic fibers. When you look at global fiber consumptions, cotton has a gradual increase, I think it may be 6% a August/September 2017

Interview

cotton varieties on technology. We use technology to cross breed; enhance the fiber characteristics of the cotton like lint, strength, micronaire and all of other fiber characteristics. Today the cross breeding of the windows cross breeding is history. In today’s world, in order to survive, and yet to be more efficient the way we maximize efficiency is, by using technology, to create superior seeds. The USA industry is leading the world in this and based on fiber properties, as well as our framing practices, we believe USA cotton is the most superior raw cotton in the world.

Interview

year but, when you look at the consumption of synthetic fibers, it increases by 15-20% per year. When you forecast it in 10, 20 or 30 years into the future there is going to be a huge gap. We will see synthetic fiber up on the top and that of natural fibers specially cotton at the very bottom that is our challenge. It also not just a challenge for us as a cotton industry, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a huge challenge for the environment. If you start Googling micro-beeds, polyester micro-beeds, we are finding that polyester has a low price, it can produce some great fabric but environmentally we have started to see some very negative ramifications setter. If you put a cotton shirt in the ground, in 5 to years 10 years it will go back to the Mother Nature but polyester is going to be there for a long long time. We have to not think about today but we have to think about tomorrow and how the use of natural fiber is critical to our future well-being and not for us but for our kids and our grandchildren and future generations. TEXtalks: How do you see the scope of US cotton for Pakistan? Willaim R. Bettendorf: Pakistan is a great market, the market has so much going for, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; has a beautiful fabric with a long and very rich tradition of cotton industry and there is so much potential. The US cotton industry is very very excited to have Pakistan as a partner of

August/September 2017

ours. Pakistan has been a loyal customer of US cotton for a long time. Why would you buy foreign cotton because you have your own cotton which is great for certain uses. But because you are such a big exporters of textile to the global market you have to be a net importer. Pakistan has to import cotton in order to meet the demands of the customers. US cotton is used for contamination free textile product that you are exporting to the global market. Or certain higher quality products that have to be made from the cotton that Pakistan does not produce. We see Pakistan as a great partner. Also CPEC, the Chinese have a very high quality standard that is why US cotton has been the number one in fiber suppliers to the Chinese industry for year. As china and Pakistan are coming close and close together, I think, we will see greater market share for US cotton, being consumed by the mills in Pakistan in order to meet the quality requirements to the Chinese. They know they cannot compete the commodity level any longer; they are up in their game. We are seeing the Chinese start to nominate the US cotton in their supply chain, in order to provide high quality products. Pakistan is a great market and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to be a great future market. We are looking forward to do a lot more in Pakistan industry and we are pleased to be the partners.

M. Anees Khawaja

Director, Mahmood Group of Industries, Multan

Mahmood Group is a leading manufacturer and exporters of textile around the globe. The company encompasses the complete range of operations from cotton growing, ginning, spinning and weaving to the finished apparel. The Director of Mahmood Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mr Anees Khawaja shared recent developments, issues and the solutions

for the textile industry with TEXtalks International at Cotton USA Executive Delegation event Dubai. TEXtalks: What are the main factors for the current crisis of Pakistan textile industry? Anees Khawaja: The biggest factor of them all is that the Pakistan textile industry is becoming uncompetitive with regards to the rest of the world where our cost August/September 2017

Interview

An Interview with

Interview

structures are not helping us at all. Mainly the energy cost, to larger extents as well as now the raw material and lastly the labor costs. This is not the cost that just happened in Pakistan but this has happened everywhere else. In rest of the countries the government has really come out and helping the textile industry. TEXtalks: What is efficiency level of industrial concerns in Pakistan? How the situation can be improved? Anees Khawaja: For the efficiency, I personally think that a lot of mills in Pakistan really need to improve their efficiencies. I think, we are way behind from our own standards not from the world, but to be more competitive we really need to work hard on that. The government, from the major part, where I disagree with them on their policies but they have given a very attractive loan policy for a long term. Which a lot of us, if possible, should need to avail and try to be more efficient with regards to being more on an automatic industry where cost can be saved. TEXtalks: What do you think have most influenced the textile exports of Pakistan? Anees Khawaja: As a country, we need more exports. What we need is more dollars to come in where we can have a better trade balance and something which can help our country grow as per the targets that we have. Ultimately, we are all Pakistani and this is what we want that our country needs to grow more and thus the more exports. TEXtalks: How do you see the CEPEC having an impact on the textile industry of Pakistan? Anees Khawaja: Honestly up till now, the general impression is that CEPEC is something will probably going to whitewash the textile industry but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think

August/September 2017

that is the only thing which is out there for CEPEC. We need to have a better communication. We had a lot of communication on government to government level but he right people need to meet the right people and the government needs to take more initiative in finding who are these who are ready to go for a joint venture or have Chinese investors coming in or even to go in china and invest over there as well. So what we need is more value added and I think Chinese can really be helpful on that and with our GST Plus statuses the Chinese would obviously be more willing to come into Pakistan as well. TEXtalks: What more roles Government should play for the betterment of textile sector? Anees Khawaja: There is a long list, from where I see, government is just nowhere right now because they come up they make promises they make us clap at whatever they announce for us and ultimately we stand at a place where they are not giving us anything at all. My very strong suggestion to the government, , because this is the right time, that they just need to implement whatever they promised, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all we need. TEXtalks: How do you see such international events, as by Cotton USA, for Pakistan textile industry? Anees Khawaja: This is a fantastic gathering. I think this Cotton USA platform is something I have a very strong supporter of, for the last many years. I think they have been doing a wonderful job and more importantly, making us understand that what the standards that world is looking at and not just Pakistan. We need to get out of the shell. When they bring in a lot of people from Pakistan, it is a fantastic interaction all across Pakistan as well with the members.

Happenings

GTex Lahore, Pakistan

August/September 2017

Happenings

August/September 2017

Happenings

August/September 2017

Rastgar Seminar on New Technologies, Karachi & Lahore, Pakistan

August/September 2017

Happenings

DyStar Technical Symposium, N.T.U Faisalabad, Pakistan

August/September 2017

Corporate Highlights

the customer-oriented partner for successful Pakistan Textile Mills

“Sustainability, innovative solutions, worldwide service and the closeness to their customers are the most important factors of success” “BRÜCKNER established in their technology centre in Leonberg/Germany a test plant to do coating, finishing and heat-setting processes for textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens under production conditions” The BRÜCKNER Group was founded in 1949 and is since then a worldwide leading supplier of complete lines for the coating and finishing of knitted and woven fabric, technical textiles, nonwovens and floor coverings. Sustainability, innovative solutions, worldwide service and the closeness to their customers are the most important factors of success. Today, Regina Brückner, daughter of the company founder, is leading the business together with her husband and August/September 2017

an experienced team of specialists and executive managers. All BRÜCKNER machines are exclusively produced in their own factory in Germany. This ensures the constantly high quality of their products and enables them to supply individual solutions to their customers. The market share of BRÜCKNER in Pakistan has grown constantly over the past years. Many of their customers realized that machines of high quality are

“We are proud to have very innovative and successful customers in Pakistan. They are very productive and care about energy efficiency and reliabity of the machines. I am happy and thankful, that over many years we build up an excellent relationship so that many of them became good friends!”

Regina Brückner - CEO

more productive and more efficient than other ones. Reducing the cost for energy and being more productive increases their own success and is supporting them in working more sustainable. These are some reasons why BRÜCKNER has sold so many machines to Pakistan in the past few years. Among them are not only stenters but also many continuous dyeing and sanforizing ranges and the customers are absolutely happy with the productivity and performance of their BRÜCKNER lines. These machines enable them to be even more competitive in future. You can say that nowadays BRÜCKNER is the technology leader in continuous dyeing in Pakistan. Many customers acknowledge the technology and recognize their long-term advantages and this is reflected in many repeat buyers. And this is not only a question of performance and productivity. To have a high-quality product of course helps a lot to be successful. But you also need local manpower and the right persons in the sales team. BRÜCKNER is in the favorable position to have both. Their local agency Nazer & Co. is working for them since a long time and they are in close contact to all

the Pakistan customers at any time. They have the capacity and the ability to support the customers in the best way and over the past years they built up a lot of own experience and know-how. On the other side the sales people from Germany have a very close and good connection to their agent and to the customers. Beside this BRÜCKNER has a special team of technologists which is supporting their customers in making more out of their investments. In order to produce excellent quality, like the Pakistan customers do, they need good and reliable machines, well trained staff, good chemicals and the technological know-how which the BRÜCKNER experts can give them. BRÜCKNER also has local technicians and engineers in Pakistan who are steadily trained in the factory in Germany. Their support is worth its weight in gold and they are doing a really great job. They help a lot during installation and commissioning of the machines and they help training the machine operators. In addition, BRÜCKNER also has a service station in Pakistan as well as a spare parts and lubricant stock which ensures fast services to the customers. August/September 2017

“Our market share in Pakistan has grown constantly over the past years thanks to the great support of our agent and local technicians. Mostly all of our customers acknowledge our technology and recognize their long-term advantages when investing in a BRÜCKNER line.”

Verena Ruckh - Head of Marketing

Brueckner Technology Centre

In the field of continuous dyeing, there have been many developments in the past years and BRÜCKNER has invested a lot in woven technology and continuous dyeing processes. The aim always was a homogeneous and reproducible dyeing result independently on the article. Textiles for shirting and bottom-wear, workwear cloth and home textiles are dyed on BRÜCKNER lines with different continuous August/September 2017

Brueckner Dyeing Padder in a CDR range

processes. The symmetrical structure of the air circulation sections prevents double-face appearance. In addition, the installed power has been adapted to the low air flows which are required for dye drying and this leads to a clearly reduced energy consumption. Crease-free production of sensitive fabric such as satin, stripe-satin, weft elastic fabric and particularly percale even at high production speeds of approx. 70 metres per minute with no migration and no tailing is possible. In addition, BRÜCKNER machines have easy access for cleaning and maintenance work. These are definitely great benefits and all in all they get around quickly among their customers. Word-of-mouth publicity is the best you can have, especially if it is a

positive one – and this is what BRÜCKNER has in Pakistan and all over the globe. To allow an optimum advisory service for customers and interested companies, BRÜCKNER established in their technology centre in Leonberg/Germany a test plant on which they are able to do coating, finishing and heat-setting processes for textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens under production conditions. Customers can test their products or develop them further. For commission finishers, BRÜCKNER offers to make pre-tests in their plant before starting a new production. In their own laboratory the data can be evaluated rapidly and an individual machine configuration can be made.

Brueckner continuous dyeing range

August/September 2017

New Draw Frame Concept from

A compact installation from card to autoleveller draw frame is no problem, despite jumbo cans.

TWIN draw frame is the new TrĂźtzschler Breaker Draw Frame TD 9T. The TWIN means: A draw frame with two deliveries, but not based on the traditional double head principle. The advantage of low space requirement has been maintained. However, the disadvantage of the double head draw frames, poor efficiency, has been eliminated. Higher efficiency The TWIN draw frame TD 9T has two independent production sides. If a standstill occurs on one side, the other side continues producing. This also applies to the can changer. When one can is full, it is changed. There is no need to wait until the other can is full as well. There is no coupling efficiency between the two sides. Flexible applications With this concept it is even possible to produce

The TWIN draw frame TD 9T has a compact design, with only one operator platform in the middle.

August/September 2017

different qualities on both sides. In a small air-jet spinning mill, the TD 9T operates on one side as blending draw frame and on the other side as second passage. Reduced production costs The TWIN draw frame has been designed for the application of JUMBO CANS with 1,200 mm diameter. This applies to can set-up in the creel and at the delivery side. These cans hold 43% more sliver than conventional 1,000 mm cans. This means less sliver piecings and significantly less can transports. Easy operation Both draw frame sides are operated from a platform that is located in the middle. This saves space and reduces the walking distances for operators. The colour touch screen makes operation simple and effective.

The elements of technological importance are the same on all Trutzschler draw frames, all top rolls are pneumatically loaded and separately controllable as well.

Unique products show beauty of Santoni-Nilit partnership Santoni SpA, a pioneer in seamless technology and a leading manufacturer of a wide range of circular knitting machines, and NILIT, a global manufacturer of premium Nylon 6.6, showed an innovative capsule collection of high performance seamless athletic wear at NILIT’s booth (155-513) at Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA. Fabrics knitted with Sensil Breeze are soft and lightweight and offer superior drape for beautiful, comfortable garments. Soft Black, the Sensil fashion yarn, adds dramatic color and visual impact to the capsule collection. The new Santoni fine gauge seamless technology (SANTONI SM8/TOP2V 40 gauge) used to create the capsule collection is thought to be a technological breakthrough. “Santoni’s seamless technology creates fabrics with smoother surfaces that provide second skin comfort. The precision knitting constructs compression areas that support the body and variable thicknesses to pad and protect. Exact placement of vents and thermal pockets enables the release or retention of body heat in specific areas of the garment,” Silva explains. Sensil premium Nylon 6.6 performance yarns from NILIT were processed perfectly with the new Santoni seamless technology. The Santoni/NILIT capsule collection features Sensil Breeze with its unique cooling sensation that has been tested and proven to reduce body temperature, according to NILIT.

August/September 2017

Com4® Yarn Seminar 2017

SPINNING SOLUTIONS BUILT TO SEE MORE

Compact yarn know-how

Com4® yarn seminar 2016

The Com4® yarn seminar 2017 is planned to be held on 5th and 6th of October this year. The venue for the location is Winterthur (Switzerland). In the seminar, experts from Rieter and Uster Technologies AG will impart knowledge on the day-to-day textile activities of yarn traders and downstream processors. Core focus is on the properties of the yarns and their influence on the fabrics. Yarn determines the characteristics of a fabric. Someone who wants to select the most suitable yarn needs the relevant knowledge. In the Com4® yarn seminar 2017, experts from Rieter and USTER therefore provide the necessary textile know-how and give insights into the world of yarns and fabrics. Attractive expertise Rieter offers seminar participants the opportunity to not only see the four different spinning technologies, but also to virtually experience them. The yarns spun from them show clear differences in their structure and the differences are also reflected in the fabric. These correlations will become clear to the participants as soon as the samples are touched and compared with one another. Understanding quality data While buying yarns, it is important to know and understand the determining quality data. An expert from USTER will give detailed information and help with their interpretation. As the leading manufacturer of textile testing devices, USTER has comprehensive knowledge and offers tools to create textile quality profiles.

Swiss innovations at the highest level for quality control in winding and open-end spinning mills. Looking towards the future together.

SEE WHAT ’S NEXT www.loepfe.com

Demsan & Zakaria Trading A name of trust for Pakistani textile industry

Mr Farooq Zakaria and Mr Tuncay DEMiRCi at GTex Lahore

Demsan- A leading manufacturer of textile machinery is operational in Turkey since 1978. The company started manufacturing precision plaiting machine and now have the reach to the level of manufacturing about 11 different kinds of machines.

of customers, owned by Demsan are known very well for their products and order will be handled carefully as good as it was 35 years ago and they can expect their products at best quality and on time, as always.

Demsan cares customer requirements and makes sure that its product quality remains consistently high. The product quality is thus the core of services provided to the customer, every time. With a strong research and development department, the company is continuously working for further up gradation of the offered machines quality. Demsan, is been long associated with home textiles for many generations. Keeping the tradition of always serving its customers the excellence in service, quality and consistency Demsan today is one of the horizontally integrated companies in the industry.

For last few years, the company has focused on Asian market along with the Middle East & European countries and have got an excellent response. Pakistan is considered as one of the major markets by the company experts. The company had earned a lot of success in Pakistan with a comparatively shorter time period. Zakaria Trading International is said to be the top most appreciated agent of Demsan, in Pakistan.

With years of experience and expertise the company, now proudly owns several hundreds of satisfied customer that are running their machines in Turkey as well as in other parts of the world. With continuous production line from wrapping to weaving, dyeing, confectioning and packing, the company happily serve their customers worldwide whether under both the brands. The diverse range

August/September 2017

Up till now, 54 Demsan machines have been sold to important companies in Pakistan like Indigo textile, Soorty Enterprises, Rajby Textile, Siddique Sons, Rizwan Enterprises, Union Fabrics, Bhanero Group (Faisal Weaving), Sapphire etc. The main products of the company include; packing machines, special machines, spreading machines, wet Rope Opening machines, Batching Machines, plaiting Machines, rolling Machine, beam Winding Machines, Precision Plaiting Machines, Lead Band Sewing Machines, and Folding & Rolling Machines etc.

GMI- Latest technology MODA Laser Bridge was presented at GTex GMI took part in the GTex Global Expo in Lahore. The Fourth generation of GMI Laser Bridge System brings additional runs with centesimal precisions cuts and engraving at registration with embroidery machines on all kinds of leather and fabric. The machines include all the components that are selected from the best available in the market. The components be used in the machine can be operated by using a software and hardware are developed by the GMI itself. Developed with the aim to get improved cut on any material and design, the machines are able to give large, medium as well as small fields. The large field (500x500) is capable of making larger design specifically that have some appreciative depth, while medium fields are configurable and are tailored to custom needs. If you are looking for a smaller point of cut with more speed, neatness, and efficiency, you will need the small field that is about 200x200mm. The variable field of MODA-Laser Bridge guarantees the best cutting precision. Its special signal diagonal movement concurrently displaces the cutting body close to the needles. The bridge is made up of thick steel bars (300x300mm). They do not bend or vibrate and does not need any bulky C-Shaped support for them. This ability makes them able to place any kind of embroidery machines under the bridge. Also, you do not need to replace the support when you change the machine. Likewise, no space is occupied behind the machine. August/September 2017

Other prominent features of the machine include; 100% engineered and built by GMI srl in Italy, customizable bridge length and space saving structure, top quality laser sources (from 100 to 400w) and three-axis galvo heads (made in USA and EU): reliable, stable and safe, large working area, up to 500Ă&#x2014;500 mm, with the GMI patented Variable Field option, for maximum cutting precision on any material and design, brushless motors to move the laser unit in the bridge with high acceleration, speed and prompt stop, smooth running and self-lubricating rack, does not need maintenance, operating software for cut control with new advanced functions, that increase the machine performances. The software is 100% developed by GMI, real-time support via the internet, for just in time laser controlling, diagnosis and update, CE certified and innovative safety devices. Ideal for laser embroidery applique and leather cut and comes with a number of options including; fix cut table, automatic cut table, roll and unroll machines with the LS1 sensor, arms for tubular machines. The laser bridge for embroidery machine makes it possible a wide range of textile decorations, which cannot be done with other systems. Also, it accelerates the production process and gives precise and valuable results. GMI Moda Laser Bridge is the most powerful and high-performing laser bridge cutting/engraving system with Variable Field. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ideal for both fabric cut and leather cut, for the best high-quality results.

August/September 2017

Lenzing opens new Application Innovation center in Hong Kong

The Lenzing Group is setting a further milestone in intensifying its cooperation with the partners along the value chain by its opening of a new Application Innovation Center (AIC) in Hong Kong. New applications for Lenzing fibers will be developed and tested at the new facility, among them applications for recent innovations like the RefibraTM branded lyocell fiber and the EcoVeroTM branded viscose fiber. “With this new center Lenzing is further implementing its corporate strategy sCore TEN. One of the cornerstones of this strategy is enhancing the level of customer intimacy. The proximity to important Asian customers and partners along the value chain creates a new dimension in our service offering”, says Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer of the Lenzing Group. “We can react more quickly to current trends and handle a broad spectrum of aspects on location relating to the application with our full range of fibers as well as unique fiber blends in collaboration with our supply chain partners. Herewith we can develop highly aesthetic, emotional and functional products around the world”, van de Kerkhof adds. “This new Application Innovation Center is an integral part of our global technology network, from our R&D

August/September 2017

department and fiber processing laboratory in Lenzing to our fiber testing facility in Indonesia”, states Heiko Arnold, Chief Technology Officer of the Lenzing Group. Accordingly, Lenzing is underlining its global innovation leadership. “Lenzing’s research and development expenditures amounting to EUR 46.4 mn in the last financial year are among the highest within the peer-group internationally. The bottom line is that these investments benefit our customers, because they can optimally differentiate themselves from the competition by using innovative Lenzing products”, Arnold adds. “In this cross-learning center for Lenzing and our partners new applications will be tested for commercializing fiber innovations. This will contribute to Lenzing’s ability to even more quickly and effectively transfer its innovative strength to our customers”, Eric Chan, General Manager of Lenzing Fibers Hongkong says. “Moreover, the new AIC also enables prototype production of textile fabrics made of Lenzing fibers, from the concept, dyeing and finishing to the precise measurement of all product data”, he adds. The Lenzing Application Innovation Center starts its operation as of now and is open for visitors from the whole industry.

Cordura introduces new protective fabric technologies

Invistaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cordura brand is broadening its portfolio of protective performance fabric technologies suitable for todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s workwear environments. The latest innovations on display at A+A Show in October will range from FR solutions featuring Cordura fabric technology for enhanced durability to specialist stretch materials for garment reinforcement.

engineered with Cordura fibre technology for enhanced abrasion resistance will feature fabrics from Arvind, India and SR Webatex, Germany. Carrington FlameTougher 280AS made with Cordura Nyco fabric technology will be on display, offering enhanced abrasion and tear resistance and designed to meet EN1162 for flame retardant clothing.

The company will feature Cordura brand high visibility, lightweight, waterproof, durable 2- and 3-layer laminated fabrics for outerwear. 140 gsm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 220 gsm targeted for garments used in road/rail construction as well as security and emergency services. A range of flame retardant coated fabrics

An enhanced range of high tenacity polyester and nylon 6,6 Cordura fabrics with Lycra T400 stretch technology for workwear garment reinforcement will be presented. These comfort-stretch fabrics include options tested to meet high temperature industrial wash requirements.

August/September 2017

Eco-friendly products in textile industry

The new Laros green approach for sizing process What is sustainability and why could be an opportunity to textile industry - In essence sustainable development is about five key principles: quality of life; fairness and equity; participation and partnership; care for our environment and respect for ecological constraints recognising that there are 'environmental limits'; and thought for the future and the precautionary principle. In order to create a sustainable textile & apparel industry, a number of challenges need to be addressed in different areas of the textile supply chain. What do textile business expect of tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technologies - The performance enhancements most expected regard the ability to cut energy costs for the production processes. A great deal of importance is related to the versatility of machinery with a significant implications both on energy consumption and the management of work processes. One of the priorities is also the reduction of chemical products for processes reducing the environmental impacts of many textile manufactures. Textiles production processes such as sizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing, and finishing are characterized by a huge consumption of water, energy, and chemicals. The toxic effluent discharge generated in these processes mainly contains by-products, residual dyes, salts, acids and alkalis, auxiliary chemicals, and other solvents. Their discharge into neighboring water bodies is posing a serious threat to the August/September 2017

flora and fauna. Is the demand for sustainable textile additives high in the market - The demand from product companies on sustainable and nonÂŹtoxic chemistry is very strong. Many of the major players in the apparel industry have gone public with their intention to phase out conventional chemicals. Textile manufacturers supplying the apparel industry need to cope with these restrictions and are therefore investing heavily into the implementation of eco-friendly products. Encourage initiatives, project innovation and provide incentives could be the policy key points for the development and take-up of environmentally friendlier textiles. How is Laros changing to reach these changes Textile processing is the major source of industrial water pollution across the world, and sizing and desizing operations account for nearly 30% of the water consumed in a textile plant. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is the non-degradable synthetic polymer that dominates sizing chemical market with 2.5% global share, and leads to severe pollution. To mitigate environmental problems caused by non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, using natural macromolecules as replacements is a feasible approach. Laros has established a strong cooperation between research institutions (i.e. ENEA) and universities (i.e. Polytechnic University

of Milan) to develop new biodegradable products with similar properties like PVA. The strong cooperation between company technical skills and several research teams in the world is the key aspect of Laros’s green horizon.

Proteic extracts could be a suitable alternatives as green sizing agent (source ENEA Rome)

What are the new requests for the future green textile companies like Laros - Certifications for textile companies are important for the near future of “sustainable industry” at low environmental impact. The aim of the standards (like GOTS) is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end

consumer. Therefore, textile manufacturers are enabled to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets. Another example is the Detox campaign, that since July 2011 has mobilised hundreds of thousands of people around the world to challenge major clothing brands to eliminate all releases of hazardous chemicals from their supply chains and products. In the last years, Laros is extremely active to meet these market requests from its international fashion companies. What could be the role of research organisations to increase the companies competitiveness Universities/research organisations and industry have been collaborating for over a century, but the rise of a global knowledge economy has intensified the need for strategic partnerships that go beyond the traditional funding of research projects. When companies and universities work in tandem to push the frontiers of knowledge, they become a powerful engine for innovation and economic growth. The assiduous participation in R&D and technology transfer projects at national and European level have allowed at many organizations to consolidate a vast network of links and collaborations, with important industrial companies, universities, research centres and companies service operating in Italy, Europe and wordwide.

ZDHC recognises Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex The Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex programme analyses a broad set of chemicals including colorants, scouring agents, adhesives, inks, pigments, and auxiliaries. Oeko-Tex has announced that the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme will now accept Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex certification as an indicator of conformance with the organisation’s Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) in connection with the ZDHC Gateway - Chemical Module. The ZDHC’s MRSL covers chemical substances that are limited or banned from intentional use in the production of apparel and footwear materials and trim. Controlling or excluding the use of these substances supports the ZDHC’s mission of removing hazardous chemicals from the apparel and footwear value chain so that they do not harm workers, consumers, or the environment.

August/September 2017

Rastgar & Co. seminar on New Technologies

James Cutting, Business Line Manager - Gardner Denver

Imtiaz Rastgar, Chairman - Rastagar Group

Rastgar & Co. on 18th of July 2017 held a seminar on new technologies for Oil Free Air and Nitrogen Production, at Ramada Karachi, followed by another session held in Falettie’s Hotel in Lahore on 20th of July 2017. A large number of participants from different sectors of textile industry attended the seminar. James Cutting, the Business Line Manager for Oil Free Compressors and Nitrogen generation specialist for “Gardner Denver CompAir”, gave presentation to the event attendees and briefed them about two new products; “CompAir Ultima Revolutionary new Oil-free compressor technology” August/September 2017

Maqsood Zulfiqar, C.E.O - Rastgar & Co.

and “Nitrogen Gas Generators - The Perfect Fit to Maximize Productivity.” The presentations were followed by question answer sessions where the industry representatives showed their extreme interest in the two products and learnt more about the working and other specifications from James Cutting. The Karachi event was Preside by Maqsood Zulfiqar whereas the Lahore seminar by Imtiaz Rastgar. “CompAir Ultima” which is a revolutionary new Oil-free compressor technology from Gardner Denver. Unveiled by Gardner Denver in summer 2017, Ultima has brought a total revolution to the

oil-free compressor market. It features a series of groundbreaking engineering innovations including a pioneering design to help ensure superb performance and above IE4 efficiency within a strikingly compact design, enabling our customers to achieve ultimate air quality while saving energy, space, and money. While the other product presented was Gardner Denver Nitrogen Gas Generators - The Perfect Fit to Maximize Productivity is claimed to be a product that gives a nitrogen boost to the textile production. It is said to be safe, reliable, economical, and on-demand, making it an ideal nitrogen source has just become reality with the new on-site nitrogen generation technology from Gardner Denver. This is the ideal solution for many mission-critical applications. Gardner Denver generators eliminate the risks related to nitrogen storage, reduce your downtime through on-demand production, and pay back in one to two years!

Founded in 1859, "Gardner Denver" is an American worldwide provider of industrial equipment, technologies and related parts and services to a broad and diverse customer base through a family of brands. Gardner Denver has been a leading global provider of compressors, blowers and vacuum pumps. OEMs and end-users from every corner of the world rely on us for their business solutions. With global teamwork, strong customer focus, and vast application knowledge, enables the company to provide reliable, energy-efficient products that serve a wide range of manufacturing and process industries, around the globe. Here we got a chance to have an interview with James Cutting.

James Cutting, Business Line Manager - Gardner Denver

James Cutting is business line manager for oil free compressors and EMEA Nitrogen generation specialist for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gardner Denver CompAir." James Cutting is responsible for 24 countries and works on his 100% for the local exclusive partners in each of these countries. TEXtalks: What is the basic concept for the next generation compressor ULTIMA? James Cutting: ULTIMA has been described as the single biggest leap in oil free technology over the last 20 years. I think everybody is familiar with the twin screw oil free concept which is using a single motor and a mechanical gear box to provide compressed air. Over the last 15 years, the oil free market has increased rapidly. As industry standards have increased, especially in high-end applications such as in pharmaceuticals, food, beverage, automotive and also especially now the textile industries, as the air jet looms becoming more critical with the quality of air and the industry has now moved towards oil free compressors. Gardner Denver CompAir, over the last 10 years, have invested an incredible amount of resources and funding into developing the next generation of compressed air compressors and ULTIMA is the latest addition to our already exciting portfolio. August/September 2017

TEXtalks: What is the energy efficiency comparison between the newly developed ULTIMA and the previous compressors? James Cutting: We had some very strict design criteria for ULTIMA product, not just the ULTIMA, but all of our oil free compressors. The total cost of ownership is probably the single biggest concern of any customer. How much cost is the instalment of the machine? How much is the cost to run the machine? And also how much is the cost to maintain a machine? So we look at the total cost of the ownership. What we did is that we looked into the best in class oil free compressors in the market today and we benchmarked it. We are the benchmark on what exists in the market today and obviously, with ULTIMA we have to exceed that. So we looked at energy efficiency, we looked at how we can increase the performance of specific power for per cubic meter from may be 1% to 2% up to double digits. These are very variable speed machines, so many of the flow and pressure bands, we are better than 10% or 12% against our closest competitors. We wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop there, this is the start and we will take this saving now and we will increase that in the future. We already have development programs in the way, because we

believe that the traditional screw compressor has not changed in 20 years. We have set the base line now for the performance and we will continue to raise that bar. TEXtalks: What are the main factors pushing you for this new development? James Cutting: The main factor was the actual customer market. They were asking for a product which should be better than what was already available on the market today. We have the twin screw compressor; we have the drive D-series, which is using a single motor, single drive shaft into a mechanical gear box which then controls the speed of your first stage and second stage. The problem is when you have a mechanical link between stage one and stage two; you cannot ensure optimum efficiency at both stages. May be when stage one is operating at maximum efficiency point and stage two is actually operating way out of that. So what we did is, we looked at how can we control both speed of stage one and stage two independently and the only way you can do that is to remove the mechanical link which is the mechanical gear box and that is what we have done with ULTIMA. TEXtalks: What is the key to your success in the market? James Cutting: Many of our customers and business comes from our existing customers so trust is fundamental. If a customer had a bad experience, he would often choose to move away from the supplier. Supplying a compressor or supplying the system is only the first part of a relationship. We will always continue to grow a relationship with our customer to ensure that they are not only getting the optimum performance but also that they are getting the highest level of local support. Often the work starts, not when you specifying the system, it actually starts when the system is installed. TEXtalks: How do you see Pakistani market for your products? James Cutting: Pakistani market, right now is one of the most exciting markets we are operating in. We have our local teams in place, we have local sales guys, sales engineers, service technicians, and also we have a regional team based in UAE. I am pleased to say at any given week fair of the year, there is a corporate member of my team in Pakistan. Historically, Pakistan has always been in the top five of our markets within the Middle East. I am pleased to say right now that Pakistani market will be, I believe, by the end of this year either number one or number two.

Reports

Key Players from Clothing Industry Commit to “Cotton from Sustainable Sources” Cotton is also a heavily traded agricultural commodity with over 150 countries involved in exporting or importing it. Cotton plays a major role in the economic and social development of developing and newly industrialised countries. It is an especially important source of employment and income within West and Central Africa, India, Pakistan and Central Asia.

Thirteen of the world’s most renowned clothing and textile companies have made a public commitment to use cotton only from sustainable sources by 2025. The agreement was reached in May 2017 at a high-level meeting held at The British Academy, organised by The Prince of Wales’s International Sustainability Unit (ISU). The companies are – Asos, Eileen Fisher, Greenfibres, H&M, Ikea, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co, Lindex, Marks & Spencer, Nike, Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Woolworths Holdings. Over the past year, ISU has been working in collaboration with Marks & Spencer and The Soil Association to convene leading companies and various “standards” organisations to discuss how to reduce the negative environmental and social impacts associated with cotton production. Sustainable Sources for Cotton A communiqué following the agreement defines sustainable sources as organic, Fairtrade, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA) and recycled cotton certified to an independently verifiable standard such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) or the Recycled Claim Standard August/September 2017

(RCS). In addition, Cotton Connect’s REEL programme and code provides a starting point for businesses aiming to for greater sustainability in their cotton supply chain Organic Cotton Organic cotton benefits cotton producers and the environment in developing countries by avoiding the potentially harmful effects of toxic pesticides, and the reduced cost of production improves social conditions. There are a number of reasons why choosing organic cotton is important for both the environment and the people who grow and pick the cotton: 1. Organic fibres are grown without the use of synthetic fertilisers or potentially toxic pesticides. By building soil fertility, organic farmers help lock CO2 into the soil, helping mitigate climate change. It also avoids the use of the toxic pesticides that, in non-organic systems, are responsible for poisoning wildlife and rivers, as well as killing an estimated 16,000 people each year. 2. By avoiding potentially toxic pesticides cotton workers benefit by avoiding the associated health

problems and deaths common in non-organic cotton production. Avoiding pesticides also reduces production costs and farmer debts – the burden of pesticide debt has resulted in thousands of suicides in India which is the world’s largest cotton producer. 3. GM (Genetic Modification) is banned in organic systems, while an estimated a significant amount of all cotton grown worldwide is genetically modified. GM cotton poses a potential risk to wildlife and human health, as well as exposing farmers to unnecessary expense. 4. There's restricted use of chemicals and limited residues. GOTS ensures that the chemicals used in processing textiles meet strict requirements on toxicity and biodegradability. Final products are restricted in the amount of allergenic, carcinogenic or toxic chemical residues. These residues can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin and may cause allergies, skin rashes or respiratory problems. In contrast, non-organic manufacture uses tens of thousands of acutely toxic chemicals, many of which are classified as hazardous by the World Health Organisation (WHO). 5. Factory conditions are better. Poor working conditions and rights in the garments industry are common place. GOTS certified organic textiles must meet social criteria based on the International Labour Organisation (ILO) conventions. These cover minimum wages, working hours, child labour, freedom of association, discrimination, harsh or inhumane treatment and more.

GOTS The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. Version 5.0 was published on 1st of March 2017, 3 years after the Version 4.0 was introduced and 12 years after the launch of the 1st Version. The high ecological and social requirements as well as word-wide practicability and verifiability were considered in the revision work, in order to achieve a reliable and transparent set of criteria. The key criteria for fibre production can be

identified as: • Organic certification of fibres on basis of recognised international or national standards (IFOAM family of standards, EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP) • Certification of fibres from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification • A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres

Fairtrade Cotton Complex issues in the global cotton industry mean millions of small-scale farmers are struggling to make a decent living from growing cotton. With high levels of illiteracy and limited land holdings, many cotton farmers live below the poverty line and are dependent on middle men or ginners who often buy their cotton at prices below the cost of production. Fairtrade works with the small-scale cotton farmers in Asia and Africa and helps build stronger farmer-owned organisations. This is important because farmers can achieve a lot more together as a group in negotiations with ginners and traders or in supporting the local community. Fairtrade encourages sustainable cotton production and is the only standard to provide economic benefits, through a guaranteed Fairtrade Minimum Price and additional Fairtrade Premium for seed cotton farmers. In 2014, 22 farmers’ organisations in 7 countries were certified for Fairtrade cotton production and reported Premium earnings of approximately £800,000. A large percentage of this was invested in providing farmers with tools and inputs and supporting education and healthcare facilities in the local community. Fairtrade currently works with almost 55,000 cotton farmers in some of the poorest regions in the world. In 2014 Fairtrade certified producer organisations sold an average of 43 percent of their production volumes on Fairtrade terms, much higher than in previous years. Meanwhile, globally, 90 million August/September 2017

small-scale cotton farmers are all in need of a fairer deal for their cotton.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) The Better Cotton Initiative exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future, by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. The Better Cotton Standard System is a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production which covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic. Each of the elements – from the Production Principles and Criteria to the monitoring mechanisms which show Results and Impact – work together to support the Better Cotton Standard System, and the credibility of Better Cotton and BCI. The system is designed to ensure the exchange of good practices, and to encourage the scaling up of collective action to establish Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. The component parts which make up the Better Cotton Standard System are listed below: 1. ‘Production Principles and Criteria’: providing a global definition of Better Cotton through 6 key principles. Better Cotton is produced by farmers who: a. minimise the harmful impact of crop protection practices. b. use water efficiently and care for the availability of water. c. care for the health of the soil. d. conserve natural habitats. e. care for and preserve the quality of the fibre. f. promote Decent Work. 2. ‘Capacity Building’: supporting and training farmers in growing Better Cotton, through working with experienced partners at field level. 3. ‘Assurance Program’: regular farm assessment and measurement of results through 8 consistent results indicators, encouraging farmers to continuously improve. 4. ‘Chain of Custody’: connecting supply and demand in the Better Cotton supply chain. 5. ‘Claims framework’: spreading the word about Better Cotton by communicating powerful data, information and stories from the field. 6. ‘Results and Impact’: monitoring and evaluation mechanisms to measure progress/change, to ensure that Better Cotton delivers the intended impact. August/September 2017

BCI in Pakistan Pakistan is the fourth largest producer of cotton in the world, and importantly also holds the third largest spinning capacity in Asia (after China and India) with thousands of ginning and spinning units producing textile products from cotton. For global supply and demand of Better Cotton in the future, Pakistan is a key strategic country and BCI have established a regional office to proactively manage the Better Cotton relationships in the country, as well as

oversee the production going on at field level. BCI works with WWF-Pakistan, Lok Sanjh Foundation, CABI and Rural Education Economic and Education Development Society (REEDs). In 2014, 102,000 BCI Farmers produced 310,000MT of Better Cotton lint on 353,000 hectares. Most of the BCI Farmers who WWF-Pakistan works with are smallholders. BCI Farmers in Pakistan for example, achieved an average of 9% greater yields while using 15% less pesticide 18% less water. Further to achieving this, they generated a staggering 46% increase in income.

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) About 8% of the cotton traded in the world market is harvested in Sub-Saharan Africa. The climate, with its

high average temperatures and alternation between dry and wet seasons favours the growing of this natural fibre crop. Sub-Saharan Africa is the fifth largest cotton exporter worldwide. Cotton is grown there by about 3.4 million smallholder farmers. A total of more than 20 million people in the region are directly or indirectly living from cotton. Cotton thus plays a key role in fighting poverty and makes a major contribution to food security in many countries of sub-Saharan Africa The Cotton made in Africa initiative has set itself the goal since 2005 to sustainably improve the living conditions of cotton farmers in Sub-Saharan Africa. African smallholders learn about efficient and environmentally friendly cultivation methods through agricultural training provided by CmiA experts. At the same time, CmiA establishes an international alliance of textile companies which purchase the Cotton made in Africa raw material and pay a licensing fee to use the seal. The proceeds from licensing fees, in following with the workings of a social business, are reinvested in the project regions of Sub-Saharan Africa. Cotton made in Africa has made a commitment to not allowing genetically modified cotton to be grown under the initiative. Recycled Cotton Recycled cotton comes from old garments and textile leftovers, which are ground into fibres, spun into new yarns and woven into new fabrics. The use of recycled cotton is constantly growing, which means the use of new raw materials can be saved and old clothes can be stopped from going to waste. It is important to have a third part certification to label â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;made from recycled cottonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Global Recycled Standard The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is a holistic certification for products with recycled content. The desired effect of the GRS is to provide brands with a tool for more accurate labeling, to encourage innovation in the use of reclaimed materials, to establish more transparency in the supply chain, and to provide better information to consumers.

Recycled Claim Standard The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an international, voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of Recycled input and chain of custody. The list of companies certified, for recycled cotton and other fibres, to GRS (http://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/GRS-Certified-Units-List-August-2017. pdf) and RCS (http://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/RCS-Certified-Units-List-August-2017. pdf) includes companies from Pakistan. August/September 2017

New Tools for Monitoring Textile Processes

In addition to conventional quality monitoring and assessment tools, the use of modern technology in other fields has increasingly found its application in global textile industry. Two of the interesting examples in weaving and textile wet processing industry are summarised below. Machine Vision Systems for Textile Industry Home and Apparel Textile industry has traditionally adopted innovation and the application of new technologies to advance the overall performance of processes and materials used and to control costs and quality. As manufacturing processes increase in speed and complexity, whilst at the same time safety and quality standards become more rigorous, the need for an automated quality control solution is ever more pressing. Weaving: On loom Inspection Generally, the biggest cost component in creating woven cloth is the raw material cost. The value of the woven cloth can be downgraded by defects that may August/September 2017

occur because of defects in the yarn used, in the weaving machine operation or from operator error. Many of these defects are spot type and small in nature, but there are also defects that may run the whole length of a piece and if unnoticed will result in high waste levels. Once the cloth has been woven there may be several additional processes that add value (dyeing, printing, coating) and if long running defects are not detected prior to these processes then additional cost is added to already sub-standard cloth, resulting in further waste of resources. Traditionally loom operators have a set of looms they are responsible for and should patrol them to check for quality issues. In reality there is often insufficient time for them to do this reliably and with the ever-increasing production speeds of looms defects can run a significant length before detection, if they are ever detected. Shelton Vision are specialists in the design, manufacture and application of digital camera systems for surface and product inspection. Shelton

August/September 2017

Vision have applied the power of high speed cloth inspection to slow moving webs at a commercially realistic price level to detect defects in cloth at an early stage and limit the severity to manageable levels. This means that machine vision systems can be fitted to every loom to eliminate long running and repetitive defects. In addition, defect maps are created that can be used to efficiently find repairable defects in high value cloth. The system claims to: • Reduce in waste material being scrapped. • Complete orders on time. • Increase throughput of repaired cloth. • Transmit reliable quality data to the next process, or customer. Textile Wet Processing: Water Calculation Tool Water scarcity affects more than 40 per cent of the global population, a number which is projected to rise. While about 2.5 per cent of the world’s water is

product is transported to the consumer). The tool can be accessed at https://watercalculator.dnvgl.com/Home/Form. The Global Network for Resource Efficient and Cleaner Production (RECPnet), supporting organizations in over 60 developing countries, will facilitate the use of the tool, which primarily targets small and medium-sized companies. It will guide companies on the use of the tool and interpretation of results. In Pakistan, the RECPnet network member is National Cleaner Production Centre (NCPC) Foundation, Rawalpindi (http://www.ncpc.com.pk/). The tool consists of: • Introduction step: provide background information about your business: company size production, annual production, raw material (fibre type), product, relevant manufacturing processes, water source and treatment. • Water data: provide process specific data of water consumption and quality, based on batch or continuous processing, depending on the availability of data (estimation, process control, measured data) • Chemicals and discharge: provide information on used chemicals and amount and quality of discharged waste water • The resulting report gives you an overview of your water consumption, and compare it with regional available indicators of best practice. UNIDO is the specialized agency of the United Nations that promotes industrial development for poverty reduction, inclusive globalization and

freshwater, only 0.5 per cent of that amount is made available to satisfy society’s needs. Water is also an important resource in manufacturing processes, including in the textile sector. Reducing water consumption by establishing sustainable production processes can therefore be an advantage for companies as well as the communities they operate in. This is widely reflected in the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, which aim, among other things, to ensure sustainable production by companies and water access for all by 2030. UNIDO and DNV GL - Business Assurance have joined forces to develop and implement projects in the field of water footprint measurement and promotion of water management best practices. Foreseen projects include developing a water footprint self-assessment tool to assist small and medium size enterprises (SMEs) in developing countries to evaluate their water footprint in restricted stages of a product life cycle, specifically the so-called ‘cradle-to-gate’ assessment from agricultural production through processing and production up to the factory gate (i.e. before the August/September 2017

environmental sustainability. UNIDO meets the industrial development needs of its Member States through a variety of highly specialized and differentiated services that promote social inclusion, economic competitiveness and environmental sustainability, as well as cross-cutting activities in the fields of industrial statistics, research and policy, and the promotion of knowledge networks and institutional partnerships. DNV GL enables organizations to advance the safety and sustainability of their business. It provides classification, technical assurance, software and independent expert advisory services to the maritime, oil & gas and energy industries. It also provides certification services to customers across a wide range of industries. Operating in more than 100 countries, with experts dedicated to help customers and make the world safer, smarter and greener.

2017 COTTON USA Quality Conference in Dubai COTTON USA Executive Delegation highlights the U.S. Cotton’s Quality to Pakistani Textile Mill leaders in Dubai. The 2017 COTTON USA Quality Conference was held in Dubai on 16th of July 2017. An eight-member Cotton Executive Delegation traveled with Cotton Council International (CCI) to Dubai, UAE, and Qingdao, China, to participate in conferences emphasizing U.S. cotton’s quality to China and Pakistan textile mill leadership and conduct meetings with key mill partners. The conference encourages the participants to “Take a Closer Look at U.S. Cotton” and have an active dialogue about their experience regarding using U.S. cotton fiber in their respective mills. The executive delegates gave presentations about different topics including; sustainability, quality, transparency and premium value of U.S. cotton. The focus of these presentations was to let the world understand how the U.S. cotton can help their textile mills. While asking, from participants from textile mills, who were present at the event, about what area the U.S. cotton

industry can improve, the mills mentioned; bale packaging, contamination, stickiness with Pima cotton, fiber uniformity, neps, and differences in classing data and cotton received. “The Executive Delegation will use what we learned to strengthen our industry’s commitment to supplying our textile mill customers with the Cotton the World Trusts,” CCI President Eduardo Esteve said. Dubai was the first stop of the delegation where the members had a private meeting with the textile leadership of Pakistan, in addition to speaking at the Quality Conference. Thirty-one representatives from 27 mills attended the Dubai conference; almost 9 export agents were also present at the conference. Bashir Ali Muhammad, the Chairman of Gul Ahmed Textiles, Pakistan shared some words with the event participants about the future development and August/September 2017

opportunities in the textile industry. At the same time, Ehsan Malik, Chief Executive Officer of the Pakistan Business Council, gave a keynote speech at the Quality Conference with an overview of the Pakistani business environment and opportunities to improve business relations between Pakistan, the U.S. and other important markets. Other participants of the conference from Pakistan were; Yasin Siddik (Premium Textile Mills), Shahid Tata (Tata Group), Tariq Mehmood (Pak Kuwait Textiles), Asif Inam (Diamond International Corporation Ltd), Anees Khawaja (Mahmood Group Of Industries), Haroon Ellahi Shaikh (Ellcot Spinning Mills), Jamil Qassim (Zaman Textile Mills Ltd), Khurram Inam (N. P. Cotton Mills), Hasnain Inam (N. P. Cotton Mills), Sajid Haroon (Al-Karam Textile Mills), Naveed Ahmed (Indus Group), Kashif Riaz (Sun Rays Textile Mills), Shahid Hussain (Nafeesa Textiles), Yahya Saleem (Nishat Chunian Limited), Naseem Rehman (Fazal Cloth Mills), Perwez Ahmed (Feroze1888 Textile Mills), Adeel Shafiq Alam (Alam Cotton Mills), Zaheen Uddin Qureshi (Saif Textile Mills), Ali Zaman Khan (Al-Muqeet Textile Mills), Farooq Saeed (Mahmood Group/Keyone), Fahim Zakaria Bilwani (Musatqim Dyeing & Printing Industries), Omair Allahwala Shaikh (Idrees Textile Mills), Ikram Haider (Crescent Textile Mills), Qaisar Nazir Shiekh (Indus Lyallpur), Muhammad Farooq (Din Textile Mills), Hassan Wahid Chheena (CA Textiles), Usman Kausar (Island Textile Mills), Waqas Anwar (Amir Umar Industries), Atif S Dada (DadaSons), M Nasir Sohail (Khudabux Enterprises), Rehan Nasir Barkhurdaria (Baber Impex), Iqbal Khurram (GS Group), Rizwan Ume (Haji Khudabux), Rehan Shoukat (Fun Marketing) and Yousaf Fareed (TEXtalks International). The 2017 COTTON USA Executive Delegation participants included: Eduardo Esteve, Cotton Council International President; Jeff Johnson, ACSA Chairman; Raymond Faus, ACSA Vice Chairman; Keith Lucas, AMCOT; Director of supply chain marketing at Cotton Council International, William

August/September 2017

Bettenndorf; American Cotton Producers representatives Nathan Reed (Board of Directors, National Cotton Council) and Brent Nelson (Secretary Treasurer, Plains Cotton Growers Association); Matthew Ryan, ICE Senior Director, Global Soft Commodities, Marc Lewkowitz, Supima President & CEO; and Mazhar Mirza (CCI/Sypher President Pakistan). Welcome Remarks, at the start of the event were given by Eduardo Esteve, President, Cotton Council International which was followed by the welcome remarks and key notes from the local industry representatives. There was also a session about the “World Cotton Production, Supply and Demand Overview” at the conference that was addressed by Jeff Johnson, Chairman, American Cotton Shippers Association. The Supima Outlook was presented by Marc Lewkowitz, the President of Supima, followed by the discussion about “U.S. Cotton Fiber Quality – Today &amp; Tomorrow” where the participants herd from Keith Lucas from AMCOT. After the refreshment session the director of American Cotton Producer, Brent Nelson spoke about “Keep U.S. Cotton Clean.” The “COTTON USA Sustainability” was addressed by Nathan Reed, Director of American Cotton Producers. Participants of the conference also heard about “U.S. Cotton Delivery” from Raymond Faus, Vice Chairman, American Cotton Shippers Association; and “ICE Futures” from Matthew Ryan, Senior Director, Global Soft Commodities, ICE. These briefs were followed by an “Ask the Experts” question answer session where the industry representatives shares words about the subject matters. Expected is that such events will generate more awareness about moving towards better textile future in Pakistan and will bring better business opportunities at both ends.

Whats New

Automated Sewbot to make 800,000 Adidas T-shirts daily Technology developed in the USA will be used by a Chinese company to supply European sports brand Adidas with T-shirts made in the US by robots. This is a major breakthrough in the automation of garment assembly by the global partnership. Leading sportswear brand adidas is planning to produce 800,000 T-shirts per day using fully automated Sewbot Workline’s supplied by SoftWear Automation, of Atlanta, GA. Tianyuan Garments Company, of Suzhou, China, the largest producer of apparel for adidas worldwide, has partnered with SoftWear Automation to produce the T-shirts at Tianyuan's newly acquired plant in

Little Rock, AR, China Daily reports. Using cameras to map the fabric and robots to steer it through the sewing needles, the system will handle soft fabrics and make the T-shirts for adidas on the system which is scheduled to be fully operational by the end of next year. "From fabric cutting and sewing to finished product, it takes roughly four minutes," said Tang Xinhong, chairman of Tianyuan Garments. "We will install 21 production lines. When fully operational, the system will make one T-shirt every 22 seconds. We will produce 800,000 T-shirts a day for Adidas."

Gerber’s new Yuniqueplm 7.1 features new options An increase in personalisation has become an expectation with today’s technological advancements. With the new release of YuniquePLM 7.1, Gerber used customer feedback to develop the upgrades, which include artboard support within YunquiePLM Design Suite Plugin for Adobe Illustrator CC17 on both Mac and PC, allowing customers to work with 1 multi-paged Adobe Illustrator doc and assign pages to different sections within a product in YuniquePLM. “Bringing the power of the configurability to the user of a YuniquePLM workspace is at the heart of this release,” said Clayton Parker, PLM product manager, Gerber Technology. New options also include improvements to Configurability that was released with v7.0 and the ability to group pages when editing, allowing you to edit pages en masse. Finally, six new PANTONE libraries have been added. Gerber Technology has enhanced the performance of YuniquePLM enabling the continuous delivery of new features requested by the customers, the company explains. This means new features can be delivered to the core product in a shorter development timeframe so customers don’t have to wait for major software releases to reap the benefit of new functionality. August/September 2017

The I am DENIM athleisure collection, made with stretch indigo denim on seamless circular knitting machines, debuted last year. Lenzing, Tonello, Santoni and Unitin partnered to create Den/IM, a studio-to-street collection designed to show knit denim’s potential as a viable alternative and competitor to traditional activewear bottoms and to classic woven denim.

Santoni introduces denim evolution

Body-mapping seamless sportswear involves just one piece of multiple-knit structure fabric, which provides improved wear comfort by adjusting local body heat exchanges. “Associated with this collection you will hear terms such as compression, ventilation, moisture control, thermal conductivity and body mapping, and these are used alongside traditional denim terms such as indigo shade, fade-down and laser marking,” explained Patrick Silva, Santoni Marketing Manager. “With its roots in seamless sportswear, Santoni’s knitting technologies are creating a new category in the constantly fragmenting athleisure wear market.” The seamless functional features of Den/IM 2.0 aim to provide superior moisture wicking by incorporating Tencel in a unique two-layer construction. These high-performance yarns are said to provide superior temperature regulation and a perfect microclimate for the skin.said. This increases the voltage associated with the charge stored in the yarn, enabling the harvesting of electricity.

Introducing new baby Thermal Manikin After a longer than expected gestation period, Thermetrics, a manufacturer of testing and measurement instrumentation systems, is introducing the latest custom thermal manikin – a new 11-zone baby sweating model that the company named “Baby Ruth.” The 11-zone Baby Manikin is designed to be approximately the size of a nine-month old child. It is constructed from a thermally conductive carbon-epoxy shell with internal heater elements and temperature sensors. Spherical ball joints are used at

the neck, shoulders, and hips, with single-flexure joints at the knees and elbows. Cable connections are at the eyes to minimise any interference with the garment being tested, the company explains. The Baby Manikin also includes Thermetrics exclusive sweating skin system, which utilises a matrix of pores over the active surface of the manikin coupled with computerised fluid delivery and a wicking fabric skin layer to distribute water over the surface of the manikin. “This method allows for precise control of the sweating rate, selectable by manikin region,” the manufacturer reports. August/September 2017

Whats New

In response to the ensuing demand within a fashion activewear market that continues to heat up, Santoni, together with its partners, is introducing Den/IM 2.0, an innovation in athleisure that brings body-mapping technology to an already innovative denim jean.

Cut-Tex® PRO

The ultimate cut resistant fabric

Cut-Tex® PRO is an ultra-high performance cut and slash resistant fabric, produced in the United Kingdom. Cut-Tex® PRO is offering over 30N of cut resistance according to the widely respected ISO 13997:1999 standard. According to the new ANSI/ISEA 2016 standard using the ASTM F2992-15 test protocol and the Tomodynamometer (TDM-100) apparatus, Cut-Tex® PRO is offering approx. 3,000 grams of cut resistance. Most Kevlar® fabrics offer an ISO 13997:1999 blade

Hydration solution worn on the forearm

cut resistance level 2 and in very rare occasions level 3 (on a scale of 1 to 5). Cut-Tex® PRO fabric as a stand-alone fabric offers the highest cut resistance level 5, which makes it at least 5 times more cut resistant than Kevlar® products rated level 3 at 5N. Cut-Tex® PRO has primarily been designed to act as an effective, reliable and comfortable shield, protecting vulnerable areas of the human body, in particular the Radial, Brachial, Carotid, Axillary and Femoral Arteries from laceration and the wearer from rapid blood loss and potential death.

The Wetsleeve, a patented lightweight hydration solution worn on the forearm, which launched on Kickstarter in June, has surpassed its goal on Kickstarter with 516% and over 2,100 backers on board in the first 30 days of the campaign. Wetsleeve’s detachable hydration reservoir is durable, leak proof and made of FDA-approved food grade materials. With a volume capacity of 12 oz (350ml), it can be easily filled with water or any other sports drink. The replaceable silicone mouthpiece situated towards the wrist allows the wearer to effortlessly drink from a natural position. The zip seal flap and roll-top opening is also designed to allow for quick and easy refills and ensures no leakage. A built-in spine is said to ensure the reservoir maintains its shape and keeps the liquid distributed across the forearm at all timeseven during the most rigorous activities. After each sip, the reservoir continuously compresses to prevent the liquid from sloshing around during use, the company explains.

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New device harvests electricity from human motion Vanderbilt University’s Nanomaterials and Energy Devices Laboratory has developed a new, ultrathin energy harvesting system that has the potential to power your cell phone, fitness tracker and other personal electronic devices as you walk, wave and even when you are sitting down. Currently, there is a tremendous amount of research aimed at discovering effective ways to tap ambient energy sources. “Compared to the other approaches designed to harvest energy from human motion, our method has two fundamental advantages,” said Pint. “The materials are atomically thin and small enough to be impregnated into textiles without affecting the fabric’s look or feel and it can extract energy from movements that are slower than 10 Hertz—10 cycles per second—over the whole low-frequency window of movements corresponding to human motion.” The Vanderbilt lab’s ultrathin energy harvester is based on the group’s research on advanced battery systems. Over the past three years, the team has explored the fundamental response of battery materials to bending and stretching. They were the first to demonstrate experimentally that the operating voltage changes when battery materials are placed under stress. Under tension, the voltage rises and under compression, it drops.

Porsche first with braided carbon wheels Porsche 20-inch 911 Turbo Carbon Wheel for the 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series, 2017, Porsche AG. © Porsche AGThey are each made from some 18 kilometres of carbon fibre and cost over €15,000 a vehicle set – Porsche has become the world’s first vehicle manufacturer to offer lightweight wheels made from braided carbon fibre. They will be available from January 2018 as an option for the Porsche 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series. Manufactured entirely from carbon fibre reinforced polymer (CFRP), the wheels essentially comprise two components. The wheel centre is made from carbon-fibre fabric. This involves cutting and assembling over 200 individual components. The second component is the rim base made from braided carbon fibre by what is currently the world’s largest carbon fibre braiding machine with a diameter of approximately nine metres.

August/September 2017

Wound-Healing bandage with a voice

Researchers from Empa teamed up with ETH Zurich, Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) and University Hospital Zurich to develop a high-tech system that is supposed to supply the nursing staff with relevant data about the condition of a wound. When wounds heal, the body produces specific substances in a complex sequence of biochemical processes, which leads to a significant variation in a number of metabolic parameters. All these variations can be detected with specialised sensors. With this in mind, Empa teamed up with project partner CSEM to develop a portable, cheap and easy-to-use device for measuring fluorescence that is capable of monitoring several parameters at once. A novel bandage alerts the nursing staff as soon as a wound starts healing badly. Sensors incorporated into the base material glow with a different intensity if the wound’s pH level changes. This way even August/September 2017

chronic wounds could be monitored at home. This would also mean a gentler treatment for patients, less work for the nursing staff and, therefore, lower costs: globally, around US$ 17 billion were spent on treating wounds last year, according to Empa. The pH level is particularly useful for chronic wounds. If the wound heals normally, the pH rises to 8 before falling to 5 or 6. If a wound fails to close and becomes chronic, however, the pH level fluctuates between 7 and 8. The idea behind the sensors is that if certain substances appear in the wound fluid, “customised” fluorescent sensor molecules respond with a physical signal. They start glowing and some even change colour in the visible or ultra-violet (UV) range. Thanks to a colour scale, weaker and stronger changes in colour can be detected and the quantity of the emitted substance be deduced.

New aqueous transparent FR coating Test combustion of paper with (right) and without Landex Coat Flame Retardant Clear treatment. © Teijin Limited Dainichi Giken, a pioneer of aqueous inorganic polymers in Japan, has co-developed a new aqueous transparent flame-retardant coating, Landex Coat Flame Retardant Clear, in partnership with Daimaru Kogyo, a leading Japanese chemical trading company, and Teijin, a technology-driven company with businesses in advanced fibres, plastics and films, composites, healthcare and information technology. Landex Coat Flame Retardant Clear, the halogen-free aqueous transparent acrylic flame-retardant coating, is said to significantly improve the flame retardancy of diverse combustibles, including timbers, papers, fibres, rubbers and plastics. The transparent coating is simply applied to the surface to maintain the material’s original texture.

Energy harvesting yarns generate electricity An international research team led by scientists at The University of Texas at Dallas and Hanyang University in South Korea has developed high-tech yarns that generate electricity when they are stretched or twisted. The yarns are constructed from carbon nanotubes, which are hollow cylinders of carbon 10,000 times smaller in diameter than a human hair. The researchers first twist-spun the nanotubes into high-strength, lightweight yarns. To make the yarns highly elastic, they introduced so much twist that the yarns coiled like an over-twisted rubber band. In order to generate electricity, the yarns must be either submerged in or coated with an ionically conducting material, or electrolyte, which can be as

simple as a mixture of ordinary table salt and water. “Fundamentally, these yarns are supercapacitors,” said Dr Na Li, a research scientist at the NanoTech Institute and co-lead author of the study. “In a normal capacitor, you use energy — like from a battery — to add charges to the capacitor. But in our case, when you insert the carbon nanotube yarn into an electrolyte bath, the yarns are charged by the electrolyte itself. No external battery, or voltage, is needed.” When a harvester yarn is twisted or stretched, the volume of the carbon nanotube yarn decreases, bringing the electric charges on the yarn closer together and increasing their energy, Haines said. This increases the voltage associated with the charge stored in the yarn, enabling the harvesting of electricity. August/September 2017

DPS World 2017 Pakistan’s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition October 20-22, 2017 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

ICTT 2017 International Conference on Technical Textiles November 9-10, 2017 Venue: National Textile University Faisalabad, Pakistan.

Shanghaitex 2017 The 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 27-30, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

DOMOTEX 2018 The leading flooring trade exhibition January 12-15, 2018 Venue: Hannover, Germany

GTex Global Expo Karachi An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo January 26-28, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR The leading flooring trade exhibition March 20-22, 2018 Venue: New International Expo Centre Pudong, Shanghai, China

ITM 2018 International Textile Machinery exhibition April 14-17, 2018 Venue: TÜYAP Fair Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul – Turkey

IGATEX Lahore 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery Exhibition April 26-29, 2018 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery Exhibition October 26-30, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) Shanghai, China.

ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain.

textalks.com/category/events.

August/September 2017