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Comparative Study of Quality Properties for Open-end Spun Yarns Produced from Blending Natural and Synthetic Fibers Eman Y. Abd-Elkawe1 & Nermin M. Aly*2 1 Spinning Research Dept., Cotton Research Institute, 2 Spinning and Weaving Engineering Dept., Textile Industries Research Division, National Research Centre Abstract : Blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers had gained a lot of interest, as it proposes a variety of textile products with unique properties. It successfully combines the good properties of both components to overcome the drawbacks of using fibers separately and enhances the aesthetic features and performance of the produced fabric. Yarn quality is an essential target in fiber-to-yarn production and has a significant impact on post spinning processes. In this work, the quality properties of Open-end spun yarns produced from cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers and their blends were investigated. The 100% single fiber yarns, binary blended yarns (50:50%) and triblend yarns (40:30:30%) all were produced with count 12 Ne. The influence of fibers properties and blending ratio on yarns physical and mechanical properties including yarns diameter, evenness and imperfections, hairiness, twist/m, tenacity and elongation, as well fibers morphology were studied to find out the optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarn quality properties. It was indicated from the experimental findings that, the 100% polyester yarn achieved the best properties and performance compared with all yarns samples followed by the binary blended yarns (Cotton/Polyester), (Cotton/Acrylic) and the triblend yarn (Cotton/Flax/Acrylic). Although, the (Cotton/Flax) binary blended yarn showed the lowest functional performance due to its low evenness and high hairiness.

1. Introduction: Innovations in fiber-to-yarn production have focused on developing new products with unique properties through utilization of fibers blends to meet the customer's needs. Seeking to achieve optimal yarn characteristics and quality while keeping the price reasonable [1]. Blending refers to the processes of converting two or more types of staple fibers into a single yarn, where fibers are oriented in the yarn structure in which each component ratio remains the same along the yarn length [2,3]. This process shall confirms the good qualities of the used fibers and reduces their poor properties, which in return enhances the performance of the produced fabric and offers better characteristics than that obtained from using a single fiber yarn [4,5,6]. Generally, blending process is applied to enhance various yarns properties such as; Durability whereas inte*All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Nermin M. Aly Spinning and Weaving Engineering Dept., Textile Industries Research Division, National Research Centre, 33 ElBuhouth st., Dokki, Cairo, Egypt, P.O.12622. E-mail : nermin_moh@yahoo.com March - April 2019

gration of more durable fiber may extends the functional life of a less durable one. For instance, when nylon or polyester fibers are blended with cotton or wool fibers, they provide strength and abrasion resistance while wool or cotton appearance retained. Economically, a considerable reduction in yarn costs could be achieved through proper blending of expensive fibers with more plentiful fibers like cashmere and wool. Physical properties, a compromise utilizing the preferable characteristics of the blended fibers, like using rayon to give luster and softness to cotton fabrics. Color and appearance, where novel designs may be carried out by incorporating multi-color effects [1, 2]. The properties of blended yarns are depending on the constituent fibers characteristics and their proportions. Thus, fibers selection is a significant matter for three component blends as it is for the common binary blends [2,5]. Blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers offers the possibility of combining the desirable performance properties of both components since they are so dissimilar [2], whereas blending ratios are determined according to the end-use, the economical and environmental con423

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords : Binary blended yarn, Open-end rotor spinning, Triblend yarn, Yarn quality.


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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ditions [7]. Cotton is the most used natural fiber, it presents approximately 33% of total fibers production and it is extensively used in apparel and textiles sectors. Cotton's quality depends on fibers properties such as length, strength, maturity degree and fineness [2,8,9]. Blending cotton fibers with other fibers assist in optimizing fabrics cost and also improve final fabrics properties like drapeability, comfortability, durability, dyeability, ‌etc . Among the natural and synthetic fibers that are being used in cotton blends are flax, polyester and acrylic fibers. Flax fibers are characterized by their high tenacity, natural brightness and comfort properties [6,9]. They are very compatible with cotton fibers, so their blends will improve quality, reduce costs, and posses better functional properties like tensile strength and elongation, abrasion resistance, drapeability, absorbency, etc. These blends are used to produce fine woven apparel, household textiles and upholstery fabrics [2,10]. Polyester fibers play a vital role in all textile areas from traditional textiles to medical and geotextiles. They are characterized by their high strength, luster, aesthetics, low cost, but have a low moisture regain compared to cotton [4,8]. Cotton/polyester blends are used in apparel and home furnishing, as cotton enhances comfort properties, while polyester fibers improve fabric's durability owing to its strength, abrasion resistance, crease resistance, and better easy-care properties compared to 100% cotton. Also, their blends have possessed other advantages such as low pilling, low static electrification, better evenness compared to 100% polyester [4,11,12]. Acrylic fibers are characterized by good durability and shape retention, low thermal conductivity, easy-care properties, etc. About 75% of acrylic fibers are used in apparel, 20% in home furnishings, and 5% in industrial applications [8]. Cotton/ acrylic blends are used in bulky woven and knitted fabrics, whereas cotton fibers offer moisture regain, absorbency and antistatic properties, while acrylic fibers provide heat insulation, crease recovery and abrasion resistance [2]. Several studies have investigated the quality properties of blended yarns and revealed that, they are mainly influenced by materials types and their blending ratios, machine type and its setup parameters, and the spinning system type [1, 11]. Ring and Open-end rotor spinning systems comprise about 90% of total yarn production in the world [13]. Open-end rotor spinning is a modern technique, where spinning and winding are combined in one process to overcome all of ring spinning issues , through separating twisting and winding in 424

yarn manufacturing processes. So, it exhibits less energy cost due to less machinery used in production. Moreover, the yarns are more regular due to multiple doubling or back doubling of fibers in the rotor groove [14,15] and have low breakage rate which improves their quality. Thus, there is a significant increase in yarn production which is about 3-5 times compared to ring spinning system [16]. The main quality characteristics of blended spun yarns are tenacity, elongation, evenness which depend on the fibers used properties [1, 4]. Jackowska-Strumillo et al. [17] had investigated the quality properties of cotton yarns spun using ring, compact and Open-end rotor spinning machines. It was indicated that, Open-end yarns are characterized by their tenacity, low hairiness and unevenness. Anandjiwal et al. [18] found that, blending dissimilar fibers had resulted in non-uniform distribution throughout the yarn cross-section, which leads to preferential migration relying on both fiber properties and spinning processes. Nawaz S.M et al. [19], reported that, yarn strength reduced gradually as polyester fibers share decreased in the blend. Cierpucha et al. [20], studied the quality properties of cotton and cotton/flax blends rotor spun yarns and had found that, the blended yarns had low strength and high coefficients of variation of linear density compared to cotton yarns. Barella et al., [21], studied the properties of ring and rotor polyester/cotton (50:50%) blended yarns for diameter and hairiness compared with 100% cotton and polyester yarns. They found that, hairiness was higher for cotton yarns than for polyester yarns with blends situated in an intermediate position for both ring and rotor-spun yarns. The present work aims to study the quality properties of Open-end spun yarns produced using four different natural and synthetic fibers and their blends. Cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers were used and blended to produce binary blended yarns and triblend yarns to be compared with the 100% single fiber yarns. The physical and mechanical properties of the produced blended spun yarns such as; diameter, hairiness, evenness and imperfections, twist/m, tenacity and elongation were examined to assess their performance. The results obtained are discussed and evaluated to find out the optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarn quality properties. 2. Materials and methods Greek cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers were chosen to produce 100% single fiber yarns and their March - April 2019


SPINNING

Table 2.1. Fibers physical and mechanical properties Polyester Acrylic

Table 2.2. Open-end spun yarns specifications Sample No

Yarn materials

Blending ratio (%)

1

Cotton (C)

100

2

Polyester (P)

100

3

Acrylic (A)

100

4

Cotton/Flax (C/F)

(50:50)

5

Cotton/Acrylic (C/A)

(50:50)

6

Cotton/Polyester (C/P)

(50:50)

7

Flax/Polyester (F/P)

(50:50)

8

Acrylic/Polyester (A/P)

(50:50)

9

Cotton/Flax/Polyester (C/F/P)

(40:30:30)

10

Cotton/Flax/Acrylic (C/F/A)

(40:30:30)

Fibers properties

Cotton

Flax

Fiber Length (mm)

33.03

62.2

35.8

66

11

Cotton/Acrylic/Polyester (C/A/P)

(40:30:30)

Length uniformity (%)

86.6

87.3

89

93.33

12

Flax/Acrylic/Polyester (F/A/P)

(40:30:30)

Tenacity (g/tex)

24.5

29

59.1

32

Elongation (%) Fiber Fineness

6.3

5.4

15.8

10.3

(Micronaire)

4.74

12.7

6.25

6.8

Maturity (%)

74.5

60

62.5

56

2.1. Yarn spinning process The experimental work was carried out in El-Sharkia Spinning and Weaving Co. (SharkaTex) in Zagazig city. Open-end rotor spinning system was chosen for producing the 100% spun yarns and their blends. The raw materials were obtained from the spinning mills. The fibers were prepared and processed for the carding section. The carded slivers of all fibers were carried to the drawing process, where blending of natural and synthetic fibers was performed according to the required ratios on the drawing frame to provide the best blend in the longitudinal direction. The drawn slivers were fed to the spinning machine (Ingolstadt rotor spinner RU11). The used machine parameters including 52 mm rotor diameter with speed of 40000 rpm and an opening roller with speed of 6000 rpm. The produced Open-end spun yarns were of count 12 Ne with a twist multiplier 4 for all yarn samples. The specifications of the Open-end spun yarns samples are listed in Table 2.2.

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Note: 100% Flax yarns and the binary blended yarn Flax/Acrylic (F/A) were unspinnable due to unsuitable spinning conditions. This is may be related to the stiffness, brittleness and low pliability of flax fibers, which lack convolution to produce the necessary cohesion between the fibers [22]. But when flax fibers blended with cotton and polyester fibers, it gave good results in producing blended yarns as its share decreased in the produced yarns. 2.2. Yarn testing The produced Open-end spun yarns quality properties were tested after conditioning the samples for 24 hours under the standard atmospheric conditions (20±2°C) and (65±2% RH). Yarn diameter was determined using Nikon profile Projector Model V-12. Yarn evenness and imperfections refers to the number of thick & thin places and neps per 1000 meters of yarn were measured using Uster Tester 1-Model B according to ASTM D-1425 and with test speed of 400 m/min. Yarn hairiness was measured using F-Index Tester according to ASTM D-5647 with test speed of 30 m/min. Hairiness value refers to the total number of protruding fibers on the yarn's outer surface including fibers of length <1 mm and fibers of length >3 mm and above. Yarn tenacity (cN/tex) and Elongation at break (%) were measured using Uster Tensorapid tensile testing machine according to ASTM D-2256. The test cross-head speed was 500 m/min. Yarn twists per meter (TPM) was determined using Asano Machine digital twist tester according to ASTM D-1423. Spun yarn properties were examined at Textile Industries Research Division laboratories, National Research Centre, Giza, 425

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

possible blends including binary blended yarns (50:50%) and triblended yarns (40:30:30%). Fibers physical and mechanical properties were examined and presented in Table 2.1. Fibers length and length uniformity were measured using Fibrograph instrument according to ASTM-D1447. Fibers fineness and maturity were measured using Micronaire-675 device according to ASTM-D1448. Fibers tenacity and elongation was measured using Stelometer instrument according to ASTM-D1445. Testing of fibers properties were carried out in Cotton Research Institute laboratories, Giza, Egypt.


SPINNING Egypt. Yarns morphology was examined using Leica DMLS microscope at 10x zoom at Cotton Research Institute laboratories, Giza, Egypt. The properties of the produced Open-end spun yarns were studied and analyzed with respect to the influence of fiber materials properties and blending ratios to assess their performance. Overall comparison of all yarns properties was carried out using radar charts to find out the optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarn quality properties. 3. Results and discussions In this work, the quality properties of the produced Open-end spun yarns in terms of their physical and mechanical properties were studied and evaluated with respect to the influence of fiber materials properties and blending ratios to assess their performance.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.1. Yarn diameter Yarn diameter has an effect on fabric quality as it assists in expecting fabric constructional parameters like cover factor and porosity [23]. The influence of fibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns diameters is shown in figure 3.1. It was observed that, the 100% acrylic yarn showed the highest diameter of 0.41 mm followed by the 100% cotton yarn with diameter of 0.39 mm and then the triblend yarn (C/F/P) with 0.38 mm .While the 100% polyester yarn showed the lowest diameter of 0.28 mm followed by the binary blended yarn (C/P) with diameter of 0.29 mm. This could be related to polyester yarn structure which has finer fibers in its cross-section compared with the acrylic fibers which are characterized by their bulkiness. This is clearly shown with increasing cotton and acrylic fibers share ratios in the blended yarns.

3.2. Yarn evenness Yarn evenness refers to the variation level in yarn linear density. The presence of more yarns imperfections in terms of thin & thick places and neps leads to a decline in their performance which affects negatively on the fabric appearance and quality. The influence of fibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns evenness is shown in figures 3.2 and 3.3 respectively. It was found from figure 2 that, the 100% yarns didn't record any thin places. The triblend yarn (F/P/A) recorded the lowest thick places value of 10, followed by the 100% polyester yarn with thick places value of 20. Also, the binary blended yarn (C/A) recorded the lowest neps value of 50, followed by the 100% polyester yarn with neps value of 110. On the other hand, the triblend yarn (C/F/P) recorded the highest value of imperfections with 410 thin places & 2210 thick places and 3330 neps. This may be attributed to increasing the content of cotton and flax fibers in the blending ratios, since natural fibers are characterized by having high variations in their cross-section along their length compared with synthetic fibers which may leads to increasing the yarns imperfections. Also, it is observed from figure 3 that, the triblend yarn (C/F/P) has the highest unevenness value (U%) of 25.6% followed by the binary blended yarn (C/F) with 25%. Whereas the binary blended yarns (C/A) showed the lowest unevenness value of 8.6% followed by the triblend yarn (C/P/A) with unevenness value of 10.9%. This could be due to increasing in the proportion of synthetic fibers in the blending ratios which have long fibers with a controlled diameter and low variations that may reduces the presence of thick and thin places. Although natural fibers may have short and immature fibers in their cross-section which leads to forming neps along the yarns length.

Figure 3.1. Open-end spun yarns diameter values. Figure 3.2. Open-end spun yarns imperfections values.

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Figure 3.3. Open-end spun yarns unevenness values.

Figure 3.4. Open-end spun yarns hairiness values.

3.3. Yarn hairiness Hairiness has an effect on yarns appearance and performance. The presence of protruding fibers on the yarn's outer surface results in accumulation of contact points between yarns and weaving machine parts and thus leads to yarn breakages during weaving process and may causes pilling problems [24]. The influence of fibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns hairiness is shown in figure 3.4. For fibers protruded of 1mm length and shorter, it was found that the binary blended yarn (C/F) recorded the highest hairiness value of 80.5 followed by the triblend yarn (C/F/P) with hairiness value of 37.9. Although, lower hairiness values was observed in the triblend yarn (C/ F/A) of 5.9 followed by the binary blended yarns (C/ P) with hairiness value of 11. This could be related to lower length uniformity of cotton and flax fibers and to the presence of the short fibers in their blend yarn cross-section. This may leads to increasing the number of protruding fibers on the yarn's surface that causes increase in the hairiness level as well.

3.4. Yarn tenacity Yarns tenacity has a direct effect on the efficiency of winding, weaving and knitting processes. The influence of fibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns tenacity is shown in figure 3.5. It was found that, the 100% polyester yarns showed the highest tenacity value of 13.6 cN/tex, followed by the binary blended yarn (F/P) with tenacity value of 13.2 cN/tex and 100% cotton yarns with tenacity value of 11.85 cN/tex. Although the lowest tenacity value was observed with the binary blended yarn (C/P) of 8.23 cN/tex followed by the binary blended yarn (C/F) with tenacity value of 8.5 cN/tex. This may be related to polyester fibers high strength compared to other fibers. It may be also due to increasing the number of fibers in the yarn cross-section that are able to bear the tensile load and the high stiffness of flax fibers that increases its tenacity. As well it was clarified that, decreasing the share of cotton fibers in the blend leads to a reduction in the yarns tenacity.

On the other hand, for protruded fibers of 3 mm length and longer, the 100% acrylic yarn recorded the highest hairiness value of 33.5 followed by the binary blended yarn (C/A) with hairiness value of 26.6. While the binary blended yarns (C/P) recorded the lowest hairiness value of 0.3 followed by the 100% polyester yarn with hairiness value of 0.7. High hairiness of acrylic fibers may be related to the occurrence of the electrostatic forces that results from the frictions formed by fiber to-metal surfaces and fiber-to-fiber during yarns production on the Open-end-rotor machine [25].

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Figure 3.5. Open-end spun yarns tenacity values.

3.5. Yarn elongation at break Yarn elongation at break is influenced by fibers extension and their arrangement in yarn body. The influence of fiber properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns elongation is shown in figure 3.6. It was 427

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SPINNING


SPINNING found that, the binary blended yarn (P/A) showed the highest values of elongation with 16.1%, followed by the binary blended yarns (F/P) with elongation values of 14.5% and (C/A) with value of 14.1%. While the lowest elongation were noted in the binary blended yarn (C/F) with value of 9.31%, followed by the 100% cotton fibers with value of 9.77%. This may be attributed to the high elongation properties of polyester and acrylic fibers compared to flax and cotton fibers. Also, it was indicated that, there is an improvement in the elongation values with the binary blended yarns compared to the 100% yarns and the triblend yarns.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.6. Open-end spun yarns elongation values.

3.6. Yarn twists per meter The influence of fiber properties and blending ratios on the Open-end spun yarns number of twists/m is shown in figure 3.7. It was indicated that, the 100% cotton fibers showed the highest values of twists/m with 791, followed by binary blended yarn (C/F) with 787.4 and the triblend yarn (C/P/A) with 748. While the lowest number of twists/m was found with 100% acrylic yarn of 572.5 and the binary blended yarn (F/P) with 602.4. This may be attributed to cotton fibers nature of presence of short fibers that need a high number of twists to increase its strength. Although acrylic fibers have high hairiness level due to presence of protruding fibers on its surface that leads to decreasing the number of twists/m.

Figure 3.7. Open-end spun yarns twists/m values.

3.7. Yarns performance evaluation An overall comparison of all yarns properties was carried out using radar charts to find out the optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarn quality properties. Figure 3.8 shows the evaluation of the best five Open-end spun yarns performance in terms of their physical and mechanical properties. While figures 3.9 and 3.10 show the best binary blended yarns and triblended yarns performances. It was revealed that, the 100% polyester yarn achieved the best functional performance compared to all yarns, due to its high tenacity and elongation, evenness and low diameter and hairiness values, followed by the binary blended yarn (C/P), the binary blended yarn (C/A), the triblend yarn (C/F/A) and the binary blended yarn (P/A). On the other hand, it was revealed that, the (C/F) binary blended yarn showed the lowest functional performance compared to all yarn samples due to its low evenness and high hairiness.

Figure 3.8 shows the evaluation of the best five Openend spun yarns performance

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Figure 3.12. Flax fibers; a) cross sectional view and b) longitudinal view. Figure 3.9. Evaluation of the binary blended Open-end spun yarns performance.

Figure 3.13. Polyester fibers; a) Cross sectional view and b) longitudinal

Figure 10. Evaluation of the triblend Open-end spun yarns performance.

Figure 3.11. Cotton fibers: a) cross sectional view and b) longitudinal view. March - April 2019

Figure 3.14. Acrylic fibers; a) Cross sectional view and b) longitudinal view.

Fibers properties and blending ratios had a great influence of on the arrangement of fibers and distribution in the produced Open-end spun yarns cross-sections. Figure 3.15(a-e) shows the cross-sectional views of the binary blended yarns (C/F), (C/P), (F/P), (C/A), and (A/P), respectively. It can be observed from figure 3.15-a, that the cotton fibers are gathered together towards the yarn center due to its high density surrounded by the flax fibers. In 3.15-b, cotton fibers are surrounded by the polyester fibers which are characterized by their low density that leads to their distribution in the outer layers, while in figure 3.15-c, the flax fibers are surrounded by the polyester fibers. Also in 3.15-d, cotton fibers are found in the center and at edges while acrylic fibers are oriented preferentially positioned in the yarn outer layer surface due to its low density. In 3.15-e, both polyester and acrylic fibers are substantially distributed in the yarn cross-section. 429

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.8. Yarns morphology: Figures from (3.11-3.14) show the cross-section and longitudinal views of cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers, respectively. It can be seen, that cotton fibers cross-section is oval kidney-shaped with a thick wall and small lumen. The fiber looks like a flat twisted ribbon with convolutions. Flax fibers have a polygonal cross-section with a central lumen. The fibers have a smooth surface with nodes at intervals that cause the unevenness [26]. Polyester fibers have a smooth round cross-section and a rod-like appearance. Acrylic fibers have a bean shaped cross-section and the fibers look slightly wavy in appearance that give bulkiness to the yarns and provide warmth. [27].


SPINNING While figure 3.16(a-d) show the cross-sectional views of the triblended yarns (C/F/P) (C/F/A), (C/A/P) and (F/A/P), respectively. In figure 3.16(a-b) natural fibers ratio in the blend is higher than the synthetic fibers. So, it was observed from figure 3.16-a, the cotton fibers are gathered together towards the yarn center surrounded by the flax fibers and the polyester fibers are located mostly at the surface layer because of its lower density. This leads to the presence of structural irregularities in the yarn and accordingly affected on its properties like evenness and hairiness. In figure 3.16 (b-d), the acrylic fibers distribution in the blended yarns seemed to be random for all yarns cross-section, which may be related to its low density and the electrostatic forces that resulted from the frictions formed during yarns production. Although in figure 3.16(c-d) the proportion of synthetic fibers is higher than natural fibers, cotton and flax fibers are found surrounded with polyester fibers more in the yarns cross-section.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.15. Cross-sectional views of the binary blended yarns; a) C/F, b) C/P, c) F/P , d) C/A, and e) A/P ,respectively.

Figure 3.16. Cross sectional views of the triblend yarns; a) C/F/P, b) C/F/A, c) C/A/P and d) F/A/P, respectively. 430

4. Conclusion Blending process is performed for enhancing the aesthetic and functional qualities of yarns at a reduced cost. In this work, cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers were used to produce 100% Open-end spun yarns and their possible binary and triblend yarns. The produced Open-end spun yarns quality properties were examined in terms of their physical and mechanical properties. Their characteristics are mainly influenced by the fibers characteristics and the blending ratio. The trend indicated that, as cotton and flax fibers share increases in the blend, it affects on the yarns evenness, imperfection values and hairiness. Also it affected on reducing yarns elongation compared to all yarn samples. On the other hand, the blended yarns performances improved with increasing the share of polyester fibers in the blend, due to its high tenacity and elongation, evenness, low diameter and hairiness value. An overall comparison of all yarns properties had revealed that, the binary blended yarns(C/P) , and (C/A), followed by the triblended yarn (C/F/A) had achieved the best quality properties and performance in the blended yarns. Additionally, it was found that, the (C/F) binary blended yarn showed the lowest functional performance due to its low evenness and high hairiness. Further studies are needed on blending more various natural and synthetic fibers, seeking for improving the quality properties of the triblend yarns to widen their applications in the textile industry. References 1. El-Sayed M.A.M. Quality characteristics of Ring and O.E. yarns spun from Egyptian and Upland cotton blends. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3227/quality-characteristics-of-ringand-o-e-yarns-spun-from-egyptian-and-upland-cotton-blends page=9 & amp=true . 2. Charankar S.P., Verma V., Gupta M. and Nanavati B.M., Journal of the Textile Association, 67(5), 201,(2007). 3. Samanta A.K., Indian Journal of Fiber and Textile Research, 39(1), 89, (2014). 4. Bhardwaj S. and Juneja S., Studies on Home and Community Science, 6(1), 33, (2012). 5. Rajalakshmi M., Koushik C.V. and Prakash C., Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 2(6),1, (2012). 6. Prakash C., Ramakrishnan G., and Koushik C.V., FIBERS & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 19:6(89), 38, (2011). 7. Shad S.S., Mumtaz A. and Javed I., Pakistan March - April 2019


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18. Anandjiwala R.D., Goswami B.C., Bragg C.K., and Bargeron J.D., Textile Research Journal, 69(2), 129, (1999). 19. Nawaz S.M, Shahbaz B., Yousaf C.K., Pakistan Textile Journal, 48(6), 26,(1999). 20. Cierpucha W., Czaplicki Z., Mankowski J., Kolodziej J., Zareba S. and Szporek J., FIBERS & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 14(5),80,(2006). 21. Barella A., Manich A., Castro L. and Hunter L., Textile Research Journal, 54(12), 840,(1984). 22. Schulze, G., Experience in Linen Fiber Processing, Melliand Textilberichte (Eng. Ed.), 5,(1998). 23. Jaouadi M., Msehli S. and Sakli F., The Indian Textile Journal, 117, September issue,1, (2007). 24. Kova evi S., Schwarz I.G., and Skenderi Z., Industria Textile, 67(2), 91, (2016). 25. Morton W.E. and Hearle J.W.S., Physical Properties of Textile Fibers, 4th Edition, The Textile Institute ,CRC Press, Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England,(2008). 26. Smole M.S., Hribernik S., Kleinschek K.S. and Kre•e T., Plant Fibers for Textile and Technical Applications, In: Advances in Agrophysical Research, InTech open, p.376 (2013). 27. Synthetic Fibers, Acrylic. https://nptel.ac.in/ courses/116102026/39. ❑❑❑

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Impact of Card Neps Removal Efficiency on Yarn Quality Sujit Gulhane1*, Vishal Patil1, Prafull Kolte1, Jaikisan Gupta2 1 Center for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS 2 Welspun India Limited Abstract : The paper focused on the impact of carding performance particularly Neps Removal Efficiency (NRE) on the yarn quality. The carding parameters, settings and machine condition plays an important role in the production of good quality sliver. These improper settings and parameters are responsible for fiber entanglement and subsequent generation of Neps. The Neps are an undesirable factor which reduces the quality of the yarn and ultimately reduces the cost of the final products. Even though the cards are feed with the same mixing received from the blow room and set with same carding parameters they show variation in the carding performance. This variation in the carding performance needs to be studied to find out its causes and impact on yarn quality. Here in this paper five cards running with the same material and process parameters with different neps removal efficiency were considered. The sliver of each card was channelized up to ring frame yarn formation, and the quality of the yarn was tested and analyzed with respect to the neps removal efficiency of the cards. It is found that the neps removal efficiency has an impact on yarn quality. The causes of variation in the card to card NRE were also discussed in this paper.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords : Carding, Nep Removal Efficiency, Card Setting, Yarn Quality

1. Introduction: In the blow room, where rolling of cotton, the beating of cotton, improper carding action and immature fiber content in raw material causes the fiber to be tangled into neps [1]. The carding is the heart of the entire spinning process as carding performance effects largely on the yarn quality. In carding feed fiber are individualized, cleaned by removing trash and micro dust embedded in the tufts of fibers [2]. Carding also removes short fibers and Neps by the carding action of flats and cylinder wire points. While carding neps are removed as well as generated due to the beating of fibers with fine wire points results into formation of neps. The generation of neps at card increases above the acceptable level due to improper settings, worn out wire points, immature fibers etc [3, 4]. The ultimate object of carding is to open out thoroughly the tiny lumps, flocks or tufts to a state where every fiber becomes individualized and the cotton is no more in an entangled state [5]. The carding performance is indicated by Nep removal efficiency NRE. It is defined as the no of neps are removed after carding action in carded sliver it is expressed in percentage. NRE is calculated by following formulae *All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Prof. Sujit Gulhane, Center for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS, Shirpur Email : sujitgulhane.iitd@gmail.com 432

(Neps in feed - Neps in delivered) NRE= ---------------------------------------------- X100 Neps in feed In general practice, the NRE at cards is set with wider acceptance level. As in further process these slivers are blended and drafted in the subsequent process of breaker draw frame and finisher draw frame. Thus it is not possible to identify the card which is responsible for higher imperfection level. This becomes a problem in the path of quality improvement at the carding stage. In the context of this, we have selected this topic to find out the importance of the NRE level of individual at cards. 2. Material and methods Medium grade cotton of Shankar H6 variety with 30.2 mm UHML and 4.3 micronier value is used to spin a carded yarn of 20 Ne was used to study the impact of NRE at cards on yarn quality. The cotton fibers were processed through a blow room, carding and one passage of draw frame as Breaker, Finisher, Speed Frame and Ring Frame. The quality of the card feed and sliver is tested on AFIS to determine the NRE of each card. The carded sliver of each card was processed till Ring frame stage to produce 20s Ne yarn. All yarn samples are tested by standard test methods after conditioning in standard atmospheric conditions to determine imperfection, (thick, thin, neps) and short-term March - April 2019


WEAVING evenness (U %) and single yarn strength. Test results and their interpretation is given in the results and discussion. Table 2.1. Shows the Nep Count and the NRE of the selected five cards. It is found that the five cards are feed with same raw cotton fiber mixing but the level of NRE varies due to variation in carding performance. The card E shows the lowest NRE level whereas card A shows highest NRE level. Table 2.1: NRE of Cards Particular Card Feed

Card A Card B delivery delivery

Card C delivery

Card D delivery

Card E delivery

Neps/gm

96

131

138

144

266

112

Nep size 710

678

710

715

720

722

NRE %

63.91

57.89

50.75

48.12

45.86

2.1 Possible Causes for Variation in NRE of the Cards 2.1.1 Card speed Parameters Card speed Parameters are one of the main reasons for variation in NRE. If the two cards are running at the small variation in speeds, they lead to variation in NRE, due to variation in carding action at different speeds. Thus, it is necessary to maintain a constant speed of all moving parts of the cards [8]. 2.1.2 Opening of fibers In carding, the fibers are open in licker-in zone if there is an improper opening of fibers it leads to variation in NRE of the card. If there is variation in the opening of fibers between two cards it causes high variation in

NRE. Variation in the opening zone happens due to the difference in licker-in speed, damaged wire points of licker in or the blunt edge of licker-in wire points. To reduce the variation in NRE of card it necessary to do regular maintaining the licker-in and as well as the whole card. 2.1.3 Card setting The setting between flats and cylinder of the card affects fiber individualization, neps removals and generation during carding action. If two cards are running with a minute change in their settings, then that will lead to variation in their NRE. The wider setting between flat and cylinder reduced carding action i.e. removal of neps and too closer setting causes formation of neps. Thus, flat to cylinder setting need to be kept at an optimum level to achieve minimum neps count in the card sliver. 2.1.4 Card maintenance The card maintenance is not only effects on production but also on the quality of the sliver. If the preventive maintenance cycles of the cards were not maintained equally for all card, it will lead to variation in the mechanical condition in between cards. This variation in the condition of the cards leads to variation in NRE levels of cards. 3. Results and Discussion The yarn samples produced by canalizing the material of each card were tested for its evenness and single yarn strength. The test results obtained at different Nep level in card sliver is given in table 3.1 given below.

Card

NRE

U%

CVm

CV10m

IPI

RKM

Elongation

CSP

Card A

63.91

11.58

14.74

2.34

259

17.25

4.58

2988

Card B

57.89

11.67

14.71

2.28

287

16.73

4.51

2838

Card C

50.75

11.55

14.89

2.43

324

14.66

4.36

2964

Card D

48.12

11.75

14.98

2.56

365

15.39

4.72

2971

Card E

45.86

11.68

14.79

2.52

389

16.82

4.37

2879

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 3.1: Effect of NRE on yarn test results.

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433


WEAVING 3.1 Effect of NRE on U% and CV% of yarn The results show that the unevenness parameters of the tested yarns are similar to negligible deviations thus we conclude that the effect of NRE on yarn unevenness is negligible. As unevenness is governed by the variation in the number of fibers in cross section of yarn, and NRE does not effect on the probability of a number of fibers in the yarn cross-section. 3.2 Effect of NRE on IPI The results show that the card with higher NRE value shows lower thick and neps count as compared with the card with lower NRE vale. This difference is observed in a large amount in the form of IPI value. IPI value not only decides the quality of yarn but also its performance in the subsequent process. Thus it is concluded that the card with higher NRE gives better results of IPI in comparison with a card of lower NRE value.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.3 Effect of NRE on Yarn Strength The test results of the yarn samples do not show any relation with the NRE. The strength of yarn is decided by the number of fibers in the cross section and twist level. The level of Nep has no impact on the number of fibers in the cross section and twist level in the yarn it does not have any correlation with the yarn RKM, Elongation, and CSP. 4. Conclusion The results show that the card with higher NRE value shows lower IPI as compared with the card with lower NRE vale. This difference is observed in a large amount in the form of IPI value. IPI value not only decides the quality of yarn but also its performance in the subsequent process. Thus, it is concluded that the card with higher NRE gives better results of IPI in comparison with a card of lower NRE value. The unevenness and strength of the tested yarns are more or less equivalent with negligible deviations thus we conclude that the effect of NRE on yarn unevenness and strength is negligible. The carding neps removal efficiency decides the yarn IPI and it has a significant effect on yarn appearance, thus it essential to reduce card to card nep level variation by optimization of card settings.

434

5. Acknowledgement : The authors are grateful to Dr. P.P.Raichurkar Associate Dean SVKM's NMIMS MPSTME CTF, Shirpur for continuous guidance and support. 6. References 1. Rokonuzzaman, Md, Ahmed Jalal Uddin, Md Abu Bakar Siddiquee, Md Abdullah Al Mamun, and AKM Ayatullah Hosne Asif. "Impact of Card Production Rate on the Quality of Ring Yarn." International Journal of Current Engineering and Technology, 7, (1), 144-147, (2017). 2. Regar, Madan Lal, and Niharika Aikat, A Study on the Effect of Pin Density on Stationary Flats and its Setting on Carding Quality, Tekstilec, 60,(1),58-64, (2017). 3. Syed Khuram Hassan, Syeda Mona Hassan, Samra Naseem and Munawar Iqbal. Evaluation of factors affecting the fiber quality used for yarn production, Current Science Perspectives, 2, (4), 116-119, (2016). 4. V.D.Chaudhari, Prafull P.Kolte, A.D.Chaudhari, Effect of Card Delivery Speed on Ring Yarn Quality, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Process, Vol.3(4), 2017, 13-18. 5. Bhushan Chaudhari, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao, Sanjay Mhaske, Performance of Card and Comb Sliver Blended Yarn, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Process, 3, (1), 30-35, (2017). 6. Gaurav Thakare, Tushar Shinde Sujit Shrikrushnarao Gulhane Pramod Raichurkar, Effect of Piecing Index in Comber on Sliver and Yarn Quality, Spinning Textiles, Mar- April, 132136, (2018). 7. Mayur Suryawanshi, Tushar Shinde Sujit Shrikrushnarao Gulhane, Rajendra Dhondinath Parsi, Pramod Raichurkar, Optimization of Drafting Parameter of Speed Frame For Better Yarn Quality, Spinning Textiles, July-Aug, 04-12, (2018). 8. V.D. Chaudhari, P.P. Kolte, A.M. Daberao, P.W. Chandurkar, Effect of Licker-in speed on yarn quality, Melliand International, Vol. 23(4), 2017, 193-195. ❑❑❑

March - April 2019


NON-WOVENS

PEER REVIEWED

A Study of Air Permeability and Ventilation Resistance of Needle Punched Nonwovens V. K. Dhange & Dr. P. V. Kadole* D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract : In this study, an investigation of the air permeability and ventilation resistance of the polyester/viscose blended needle-punched nonwovens has been carried out using the Box-Behnken design.Three different blend ratios of polyester/viscose webs were created, cross-lapped and needle punched in three different mass per unit areas and three different depths of needle penetration. Air permeability and ventilation resistance of thirteen nonwovens were determined by following standard test methods and the test results were statistically analyzed using Minitab software.In conclusion, within the ranges of measurements made, the most crucial factor having prime effectson the air permeability and ventilation resistance of nonwovens is fabric mass per unit area. Keyword : Air permeability, blend ratio, Box-Behnken design, needle-punched nonwovens, ventilation resistance

1. Introduction Air permeability, the ability of the fabric to permit the flow of air through it, is one of the most important properties of non-woven fabrics in many applications. Though by far the major use of air permeability in nonwoven is in the filtration application, there are some markets where ventilation resistance is vital to the function of the product. For example, in the apparel and interlining applications, it is essential to affirmthe optimum insulation so that too much heat will not escape in cold weather. In addition, in industrial garments like medical gowns and biohazard suits, ventilation resistance is very important to ensure no exposure to harmful substances.

areas and depth of needle penetration on air permeability and ventilation resistance of polyester-viscose blended nonwoven is investigated using Box-Behnken design.

Many researchers have addressed the relationship between air permeability and geometrical and structural characteristics of nonwoven like mass per unit area, fabric thickness, fabric density, porosity, pore size distribution; raw material characteristics like fibre length, fibre denier, fiber cross-section, fibre crimp; and processing parameters like feed rate, type and size of needle, number of barbs, needling stroke frequency, arrangement and density of needles, punching density of fabric and depth of needle penetration. [1-12].In this study, the effect of fibre composition, mass per unit

Table 2.1: Three levels of factors

March - April 2019

Factors

(-1)

(0)

(1)

20:80

50:50

80:20

Mass per unit area (gsm)

100

150

200

Needle Penetration (mm)

4

6

8

Blend Ratio (P:V)

The needle-punched nonwoven samples were produced at DKTE Centre of Excellence in Nonwovens, Ichalkaranji. The fibers were opened and blended by hand, and then fed to the blender for further intense blending. The blended fibers were fed to the Trutzschler card and the webs formed were oriented in a crossmachine direction using a cross-lapper to get the web of the required weight per unit area.The webs were 435

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to, V. K. Dhange, Asst. Prof. D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, India (Affiliated to Shivaji University, Kolhapur) E-mail : profvkd@gmail.com

2. Material and methods 2.1 Preparation of nonwoven fabrics Fifteen non-woven needle-punched fabric samples were prepared from Polyester and Viscose fibres having linear density 1.5 deniers. Three factors namely blend ratio, mass per unit area and depth of needle penetration were selected at three equidistant levels (Table 2.1). The Box-Behnken design was used to prepare the sample.


NON-WOVENS then fed to the Trutzschler needling looms. For the first needling loom the line speed, feed rate, needle depth,and needle density were set to 0.96 m/min, 4.61 mm, 8 mm,and 136 / cm2respectively.For the second needling loom the line speed, feed rate, and needle density were set to 1.53 m/min, 5.31 mm, and 188 / cm2respectively. Needle depth in the second needling loom was changed for each run as shown in Table 2.2. Table 2.2 : Parameters for each run Run number

Fabric Blend Code ratio (P:V)

Mass per unit area (gsm)

Needle Penetration (mm)

1

A1Y

20:80

100

6

2

C1Y

80:20

100

6

3

A3Y

20:80

200

6

4

C3Y

80:20

200

6

5

A2X

20:80

150

4

6

C2X

80:20

150

4

7

A2Z

20:80

150

8

8

C2Z

80:20

150

8

9

B1X

50:50

100

4

10

B3X

50:50

200

4

11

B1Z

50:50

100

8

12

B3Z

50:50

200

8

13

B2Y

50:50

150

6

14

B2Y

50:50

150

6

15

B2Y

50:50

150

6

2.2 Testing of nonwovens All fabrics produced were conditioned for 24 hours in the standard atmosphere before tested.Ten samples of 10 cm Ă—10 cm were cut from the random parts of

each fabric and weighed individually using electronic balance. The mean weight was used to calculate the fabric mass per unit area. The same samples were tested for thickness on the Mag Evolvics Thickness Tester. The thickness was measured after exerting a pressure of 100gf/cm2 for 10 sec. The fabric density was calculated by using a mean of mass per unit area and thickness, using the following formula: Mass per unit area Density = ------------------------------- Ă—0.001 Thickness (mm) The constant 0.001 is derived from the following equation: 10 0.001 = -----------10000 where 10 is the conversion factor to the centimeter, 10000 is the number of square centimeters in one square meter. The air permeability of the nonwoven samples was measured with both air permeability testing methods, using fixed flow and a fixed pressure. The KES-F8 Air-permeability Tester was used to measure the ventilation resistance of the samples at a fixed air flow and the Kurups Innovations Air-permeability Tester was used to measure the air permeability of the samples in accordance with the standard testing methods at a fixed air pressure.The KES-F8 provides ventilation resistance (R) in kPa.s/m, whereas Kurups Innovations Air-permeability Tester provides air permeability values in cc/ sq.cm/sec. 3. Results and discussion 3.1 Statistical analysis All the experimental results are listed in Table 3.1.

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NON-WOVENS Fabric Code

Measured Mass per unit area (gsm)

Thickness (mm)

Fabric density (g/cm3)

Air Permeability (cc/sq.cm/sec)

Ventilation Resistance (kPa.s/m)

A1Y

99.21

1.29

0.077

120.13

0.07

C1Y

89.46

1.14

0.078

142.56

0.07

A3Y

203.10

1.26

0.161

49.17

0.16

C3Y

192.56

1.14

0.169

54.11

0.16

A2X

161.81

1.90

0.085

65.84

0.13

C2X

156.94

1.74

0.090

63.41

0.12

A2Z

162.01

0.92

0.176

62.18

0.13

C2Z

146.80

2.64

0.056

74.75

0.12

B1X

99.51

1.04

0.096

133.19

0.08

B3X

199.53

2.01

0.099

53.09

0.17

B1Z

97.24

2.36

0.041

124.71

0.07

B3Z

188.61

2.41

0.078

67.72

0.14

B2Y

157.22

1.60

0.098

66.95

0.12

B2Y

157.22

1.60

0.098

66.95

0.12

B2Y

157.22

1.60

0.098

66.95

0.12

Air Permeability (cc/sq. cm/sec) = 458.6 + 0.418 Polyester % - 4.103 GSM - 15.10 Needle Penetration - 0.00199 Polyester %*Polyester % + 0.010535 GSM*GSM + 0.348 Needle Penetration* Needle Penetration - 0.00292 Polyester %*GSM + 0.0625 Polyester %*Needle Penetration + 0.0578 GSM*Needle Penetration

Ventilation Resistance (kPa.s/m) = -0.0714 - 0.000361 Polyester % + 0.002050 GSM - 0.0025 Needle Penetration + 0.000003 Polyester %*Polyester % - 0.000003 GSM*GSM + 0.00063 Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration + 0.000000 Polyester %*GSM - 0.000000 Polyester %*Needle Pen etration - 0.000050 GSM*Needle Penetration The Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) tables for air permeability and ventilation resistance are given in Table 3.2 and Table 3.3 respectively.

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For statistical analysis of the data, Minitab software was used.The regression equations for air permeability and ventilation resistance were developed by the software as follows:


NON-WOVENS Table 3.2: ANOVA for air permeability

Source

DF

Adj SS

Adj MS

F-Value

P-Value

Model

9

14071.0

1563.4

78.43

0.000

Linear

3

11188.8

3729.6

187.09

0.000

Polyester %

1

175.9

175.9

8.82

0.031

GSM

1

10989.0

10989.0

551.25

0.000

Needle Penetration

1

23.9

23.9

1.20

0.323

Square

3

2615.9

872.0

43.74

0.001

Polyester %*Polyester %

1

11.9

11.9

0.60

0.475

GSM*GSM

1

2561.2

2561.2

128.48

0.000

Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration

1

7.1

7.1

0.36

0.576

2-Way Interaction

3

266.2

88.7

4.45

0.071

Polyester %*GSM

1

76.5

76.5

3.84

0.107

Polyester %*Needle Penetration

1

56.3

56.3

2.82

0.154

GSM*Needle Penetration

1

133.5

133.5

6.70

0.049

Error

5

99.7

19.9

Lack-of-Fit

3

99.7

33.2

*

*

Pure Error

2

0.0

0.0

Total

14

14170.7

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 3.3: ANOVA for ventilation resistance

Source

DF

Adj SS

Adj MS

F-Value

P-Value

Model

9

0.015073

0.001675

27.91

0.001

Linear

3

0.014700

0.004900

81.67

0.000

Polyester %

1

0.000050

0.000050

0.83

0.403

GSM

1

0.014450

0.014450

240.83

0.000

Needle Penetration

1

0.000200

0.000200

3.33

0.127

Square

3

0.000273

0.000091

1.52

0.318

Polyester %*Polyester %

1

0.000023

0.000023

0.38

0.562

GSM*GSM

1

0.000208

0.000208

3.46

0.122

Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration

1

0.000023

0.000023

0.38

0.562

2-Way Interaction

3

0.000100

0.000033

0.56

0.667

Polyester %*GSM

1

0.000000

0.000000

0.00

1.000

Polyester %*Needle Penetration

1

0.000000

0.000000

0.00

1.000

GSM*Needle Penetration

1

0.000100

0.000100

1.67

0.253

Error

5

0.000300

0.000060

Lack-of-Fit

3

0.000300

0.000100

*

*

Pure Error

2

0.000000

0.000000

Total

14

0.015373

438

March - April 2019


NON-WOVENS The parameters having p-values lower than 0.05 have a significant effect on air permeability and ventilation resistance of nonwovens. Pareto charts for air permeability and ventilation resistance are shown in Figure 3.1.

Figure 3.1 : Pareto Chart for Air Permeability and Ventilation Resistance

Figure 3.3 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratio on air permeability

ANOVA tables and Pareto charts indicate that the prime factor having great influence on both air permeability and ventilation resistance is the fabric mass per unit area, and there is no significant interaction between blend components and process parameters. 3.2 Effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratio The effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratio on thickness, air permeability and ventilation resistance of nonwoven are demonstrated with contour plots in Figure 3.2, Figure 3.3 and Figure 3.4. Figure 3.4 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratio on ventilation resistance

Figure 3.2 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratio on thickness

It is observed that when the fabric mass per unit area is increased, air permeability decreases and ventilation resistance increases. Fabric density also increases with

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439

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

It is observed from the figures that for all fabric mass per unit areas, the thickness of the fabrics increases with the increase in polyester content in the blend till 60 %.This is because the density of polyester fibre is lower than that of viscose fiber. Hence, increasing the proportion of polyester in the blend produces bulkier fabrics. Maximum thickness is observed when fabric mass per unit area is 180 gsm and polyester content lies between50-70%.


NON-WOVENS the increase in fabric weight.The decrease in air permeability and increase in ventilation resistance with the increase in fabric weight can be ascribed to the higher total surface area of the heavierand dense fabric.The air permeability slightly increases with the increase in polyester content in the blend for all fabric mass per unit area, which may be due to the low packing density of the polyester. 3.3 Effect of depth of needle penetration and fabric mass per unit area The effect of fabric mass per unit area and needle penetration on the air permeability and ventilation resistance values at the constant level of polyester content in the blend (50%) are shown in Figure 3.5 and Figure 3.6.

increased interlocking of the fibres offer more resistance to air flow and so the permeability of the fabric reduces. This effect is more pronounced at lower values of mass per unit area and at lower penetration. With the increase of fabric mass per unit area and needle penetration, increasing trend in air permeability and decreasing trend in ventilation resistance has been observed. With the increase in needle penetration at higher fabric weight, more number of fibres will break, and it will cause an increase in the size of the pores. This change in the fibre alignment and number of pores may result in less air drag, which may be outweighing over the effect of the interlocking of the fibres, which causes the ventilation resistance to decrease and air permeability values of the fabric to increase. 3.4 Effect of blend ratio and depth of needle penetration The effect of polyester content in the blend and needle penetration on the air permeability and ventilation resistance values at the constant level of mass per unit area (150 gsm) are shown in Figure 3.7 and Figure 3.8.

Figure 3.5 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area and needle penetration on air permeability

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.7: Effect of blend ratio and needle penetration on air permeability

Figure 3.6 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area and needle penetration on ventilation resistance

The initial increase in needle penetration causesa slight decrease in the air permeability. It may be due to the fact that with the increase in depth of needle penetration more number of fibres will be trapped by the barbs resulting in an enhanced interlocking of fibres. This 440

Figure 3.8: Effect of blend ratio and needle penetration on ventilation resistance March - April 2019


NON-WOVENS Figures show that for all values of blend ratio, ventilation resistance reduces with increase in needle penetration. Air permeability increases with higher polyester content in the blend at a higher depth of needle penetration. This may be due to the bulkiness and high bending rigidity of polyester fibres and a greater number of fibre breakages at higher needle penetration. Conclusion

❑❑❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The work reported in this paper was concerned with the measurement of ventilation resistance and air permeability on a series of nonwoven fabrics. Within the ranges of measurements made, it was found that the most prominent factor very closely associated with air permeability and ventilation resistance was the fabric mass per unit area. Increase in fabric weight increases ventilation resistance. Air permeability increases with higher polyester content in the blend at a higher depth of needle penetration and lower fabric mass per unit area. The contour graphs will be useful in getting a series of amalgamations of fabric mass per unit area, depth of needle penetration &fibre content in the blendfor a definite air permeability or ventilation resistance.

References 1. Anandjiwala R.D. and Boguslavsky L.,Textile Res J,78 (7), 614, (2008). 2. Atwal M.S.,Textile Res J.57(10), 574, (1987). 3. Cincik E. and Koc E., Textile Res J,82 (5), 430, (2012). 4. Davis N.C.,Textile Res J,28(4), 318, (1954). 5. Debnath S. and Madhusoothanan M., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 36, 122, (2011) 6. Dent R.W.,J Textile Inst,46(6), 220, (1976) 7. Kothari V.K. and Newton A.,J Textile Inst, 65(8), 525, (1974). 8. Mohammadi M., Banks-Lee P. and Ghadimi P., J Industrial Textiles, 32 (1), 45, (2002). 9. Mohammadi M., Banks-Lee P. andGhadimi P., J Industrial Textiles, 32 (2), 139, (2002). 10. Rawal A.,J Textile Inst, 97 (6), 527, (2006). 11. Rawal A. and Anandjiwala R.,Geotextiles and Geomembranes, 25, 61, (2007). 12. Subramaniam V., Madhusoothanan M.and Debnath C.R.,Textile Res J,58(11), 677, (1988).

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APPAREL

Influence of Stitch Density and Sewing Thread Count on the Seam Performance of Denim Fabric Dr. Shweta Tuteja1* & Ms. Poulomi Sen1 1 Department of Textile Science, Clothing & Fashion Studies, J. D. Birla Institute, Abstract : Seam quality an important aspect of any form of textile assembly using seam is characterized by seam strength, seam elongation, seam efficiency and seam puckering. The purpose and objective of this study was to investigate and scrutinize the impact of commercial sewing thread counts and stitch densities on seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency on medium-heavy and heavy weight cotton denim fabrics. For the experimental work, core spun polyester sewing thread in three different counts (Tex-60, Tex90, and Tex-150) was selected. Lapped seam using Stitch Class-300 (Lock Stitch) at two different stitch densities (SPI 10 and SPI 13) were used on 3/1 right handed warp face twill woven cotton fabric. The effect of different sewing thread size and different levels of stitch densities was assessed on the selected seam parameters. The interaction effect of the independent variables was also investigated. The experimental results were evaluated statistically using variance analysis (ANOVA) and regression models which correlate seam quality with stitch density and sewing thread size for both medium-heavy & heavy type of fabrics. The findings of the study revealed that for all the three seam parameters, an increasing trend was seen with the increase in the sewing thread count at higher value of stitch density on both the fabrics for both the seams. Statistically, it was found that for both types of fabric, medium-heavy and heavy weight denim fabricssome of the independent variables have significant effect on the seam quality. It was seen that statistically there was a significant interaction between stitch density, sewing thread count and fabric weight on strength, elongation and efficiency of lapped seam.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords : Lapped Seam, Sewing Thread count, Stitch Density, Seam Strength, Seam Elongation, Seam Efficiency

1. Introduction Stitches are used to join the apparel components and seams givethe shape of the apparel for wear. These two factors togetherand their performance properties add to the quality of theapparel products. Seam interrelate with the components of the fabric to ensure the best product stability. The quality ofapparel products depends on two factors, physical properties andperformance features [2].

Better quality and lower cost are the most basic factors for the success of apparel industry. Challenge is to reduce the cost while maintaining the quality standards. Quality of the product has been given major importance in the garment assembly [4].Quality seams in apparel contribute to the overall performance of the apparel in use. Poor quality seam makes apparel unusable even though the fabric may be in good condition [6].

The visual and functionalrequirements of the apparel are mainly contingent with theperformance features. Visual requirements are grounded onpatterns, design, colors, trends and accessories used. Thefunctional requirements for the apparel are more associated tothe durability of the apparel end use The Seam enhances service ability and durability for functional performance of the fabric.

The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam arestrength, elasticity, durability, security and appearance. Thesecharacteristics must be balanced with the properties of thematerial to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam [1].Other factors also influence to accomplish of these characteristicsin a properly constructed sewn seam. Such factors includetype and weight of fabric, seam type, type of needle, threadtype and size, and stitches per inch [3].

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Dr. Shweta Tuteja, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Science, Clothing & Fashion Studies, J.D. Birla Institute, Kolkata (India) Email : shwetatuteja27@rediffmail.com 442

As seam is one of the basic requirements in the construction of apparel, seam quality has great significance in apparel products. Seam quality relies on the type of the seam and stitches per unit length of the seam, the March - April 2019


APPAREL weft was prepared from each fabric type for all the three different counts of sewing thread at both the stitch densities level. Table 2.2 : Selected Sewing Parameters Parameters

Specifications

Seam Class

Lapped Seam

Type of Stitch

Lock Stitch-300

Stitch Class

301

Needle Size

Metric 110/18

Thus, the present study was planned to investigate the effect of sewing thread count & stitch density on the seam quality of 3/1 twill woven cotton denim fabric of medium-heavy & heavy weights using lappedseam. The specific objectives of the study were:

Stitch Density

10 & 13 SPI

Sewing Machine

Industrial single needle lock stitch

1.

Raw Material

Specifications

Material

100% Core spun polyester

Ply

Double

Sewing Thread Linear Density

60 Tex, 90 Tex&150 Tex

To investigate the performance of different sewing thread counts on seam quality. To determine the effect of different levels of stitch density on seam strength, elongation and efficiency.

2.

2.Materials &Methods 2.1 Selection of Fabrics 100% cotton 3/1 right handed warp faced twill woven denim fabrics in two different weights medium-heavy and heavy weight were used. The constructional parameters of the test fabric are presented below in Table 2.1. Table 2.1: Construction Particulars of Test Fabric Parameters

Medium- Heavy Heavy Weight Weight Cotton Denim Cotton Denim Fabric Fabric

Warp Count (Tex)

84

118

Weft Count (Tex)

74

Machine Speed (rpm) 1000 Table 2.3 : Specification of Sewing Threads

The specimen was folded at 100mm (4") from one end with the fold parallel to the short direction of the fabric.The lapped seam was then applied using lock stitch with two different types of stitch densities, parallel to warp and weft direction. The seam allowance was fixed at 0.625". Seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency was tested using the MAG Unistretch 250 tester according to method ASTM D1683 - 04 with the following specifications Table 2.4 : Seam Strength Testing Parameters

84

Parameters

Specifications

Fabric Thickness (mm) 0.54

0.71

Test Type

Grab Test

EPI

46

44

PPI

21

19

Extension Range

300 mm/min

GSM

317

386

Test Speed

100mm/min

Gauge length

75mm

Load cell

250 kg

Jaw return rate

20%

Pretension

100 gms

2.2 Selection of Seam Parameters The various parameters selected for seaming are given below in Table 2.2 &2.3. 2.3 Seam Preparation The seam samples were prepared according to ASTM D1683-04 method. Each specimen of the fabric was cut in the warp and weft direction into 350 mm (14 inches) length and 100 mm (4 inches) width.For seam strength testing, five specimens each for warp and March - April 2019

With the fabric in the open front position into the clamp and seam line centrally located between the clamps and perpendicular to the pulling force. Maximum force needed to break the seam perpendicular to the direc443

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

thread tension and the seam efficiency of the fabric [7]. So, it is necessary to determine the most appropriate seam for each type of fabric to achieve a desired product quality. Quality reflects the performance of the apparel or textile product. Distinct seams are suitable for particular fabrics because each fabric has its own unique properties. The fiber content influences the overall characteristics of a fabric. Understanding the components of the fabric and the quality of the seam will ensure the best performance for that particular product[5].


APPAREL tion of extension was recorded. Observation was made in order to make sure that the seam failure is due to break not due to fabric tears. The mean of the recorded maximum forces for seams to rupture for all the samples of one fabric was calculated. 2.4 Analysis of Data To find out the performance and interaction between two levels of stitch density and three levels of sewing thread count on the lappedseam quality of medium heavy and heavy weight cotton denim fabric: TwoWay ANOVA, Multi-Way ANOVA and Regression equation was used.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3. Results and discussion 3.1 Medium-Heavy Weight Denim Fabric 3.1.1 Effect on Seam Strength Perusal of Graph 3.1 & 3.2 reveals that overall the seam strength is higher in warp direction as compared to filling direction. The graph with average seam strength for lapped seams produced using different sewing thread counts at varied stitch density shows a definite trend. The maximum strength values of medium-heavy weight denim fabric at 13 SPI was found to be 554.07 Newton in warp and 454.57 Newton in weft direction for 150 Tex count sewing thread. It may be due to the fact that higher thread size holds the fabric plies more firmly than the lower thread size and this happens due to the fact that higher thread size gives higher cover factor to the sewing thread.

The regression relationship which correlates the seam tensile strength, with stitch density and sewing thread size for both the directions, has the following linear form: seam strength (Newton) = 221.009 + 1.213 Sewing Thread + 19.204 Stitch Density - 96.347 Direction. The calculated R2 value for the model is 80.7%. This means that these models fit the data very well.

Graph 3.1: Seam Strength Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)

Overall, the seam strength values ranges from 391.28 to 554.07 Newton (warp) and 338.33 to 454.57 Newton (weft) for stitch density 13 at different sewing thread count ranging from 60 to 150 Tex. The range of average seam strength of lapped seam at 10 SPI is 358.92 to 517.79 Newton in warp and 297.14 to 343.23 Newton in filling direction at different count of sewing thread. This means that the higher sewing thread sizes in conjunction with more stitches per inch are suitable for medium-heavy weight cotton denim fabrics. The statistical analysis revealed that the P-Value regarding the test of two levels of stitch density for warp direction do not have significant effect on the seam strength. The P-Value regarding the test of three types of sewing thread size for warp direction have significant difference on seam tensile strength.For weft direction, two levels of stitch density and three levels of sewing thread count do not have any significant effect on the seam strength. 444

Graph 3.2: Seam Strength Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)

3.1.2 Effect on Seam Elongation Seam elongation is defined as the ratio of the extended length after loading to the original length of the seam. Graph 3.3 &3.4 clearly shows effect of sewing thread size at two different stitch densities on the seam elonMarch - April 2019


APPAREL gation for the medium-heavy weight fabrics. It can be seen that increasing the sewing thread size from 60 to 150 Tex increased the seam elongation in general but the value dropped a little at 90 Tex. It is also apparent that the seam elongation is augmented with the increase in the stitch density.The highest elongation value was found at 13 SPI using 150 Tex count of thread with values of 24.1 mm in warp and 23.4 mm in weft direction. The seam elongation values decreased a little at the medium count of sewing thread i.e. at 90 Tex in the warp direction and remain constant at both the stitch density levels in the weft direction.

The regression relationship is of the linear form in both warp & weft directions. The linear regression model has the following form: Seam elongation (mm) = 1.741 + .027 Sewing Thread + 1.622 Stitch Density - 2.867 Direction. The calculated R2 value for this model is 74%. This means that these models do not fit the data. 3.1.3 Effect on Seam Efficiency Data elucidated in graph 3.5 shows a constant increasing trend on the seam efficiency with the increasing count of sewing thread at higher value of stitch density. The increase in sewing thread count (60, 90 & 150 Tex) at higher stitch density level leads to the increase in the seam efficiency from 76.50 per cent to 89.76 per cent in the warp direction and from 57.05 per cent to 73.69 per cent in the weft direction.

Graph 3.3: Seam Elongation Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)

Graph 3.4: Seam Strength Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)

The statistical analysis tabulated for seam elongation for both warp and weft direction revealed that the PValue for two levels of stitch density and three levels ofsewing thread count is greater than the level of significance (0.05) concluding that there is no significant effect of these variations on seam elongation. March - April 2019

Graph 3.6: Seam Efficiency Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction) 445

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Graph 3.5 : Seam Efficiency Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)


APPAREL Statistically, the P-Value for the two levels of stitch density and three levels of sewing thread count on seam efficiency is greater in warp direction and smaller in weft direction than the level of significance (0.05) reveals significant effect in weft and non-significant effect in warp directions. The linear regression for medium-heavy weight cotton denim fabric has the following form: seam efficiency (%) = 57.305 + .166 Sewing Thread + 2.591 Stitch Density - 22.001 Direction. It was found that this model fit the data very well with a high R2 value, which is 95.3%. 3.2 Heavy Weight Denim Fabric 3.2.1 Effect on Seam Strength The strength values were checked in both warp and weft directions with more strength value in warp as compared to weft. The strength value of heavy weight denim fabric for stitch per inch 13 was maximum when sewn using lapped seam with 150 Tex thread (719.80 N -warp &657.04- weft direction).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The variation of seam strength according to the variation of sewing thread count at 13 SPI ranges from 467.77 to 719.80 Newton in the warp direction and 397.17 to 657.04 Newton in the weft direction. This means coarser the sewing thread higher will be the seam strength values. At 10 SPI with different values of sewing thread (60, 90 & 150 Tex) the values ranges from252.03 to 478.56 Newton (warp) and 373.63 to 406.97 Newton (weft).

Graph 3.8 : Seam Strength Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)

The statisticalanalysis proves that for both the independent variables (two levels of stitch density& three levels of sewing thread size) there is a significant impact on the seam strength at 0.05 significant levels, since the P-Value is smaller in all the cases for warp direction.The analysis also proves that for both the independent variables there is no significant impact on the seam strength at 0.05 significant levels, since the P-Value is greater in weft direction. The regression relationship which correlates the seam tensile strength, with which stitch density and sewing thread size in warp direction, has the following linear form: seam tensile strength (Newton) =- 352.025 + 2.044 Sewing Thread + 60.637 Stitch Density - 51.483 Direction.The R2 value for this modelis 80.1%. This means that this model fits the data well. 3.2.2 Effect on Seam Elongation Graph 3.9&3.10 clearly shows that seam elongation values are more in the warp direction than in the weft direction and there is a constant increasing trend. Seam elongation increases with the increase in the sewing thread size (60 to 150 Tex) from 28.9 mm to 33.8 mm in the warp direction and from 18.6 mm to 30.5 mm in the weft direction for stitch density 13. It was found that the seam elongation decreased a little at the moderate value (90 Tex) of sewing thread count.

Graph 3.7 : SeamStrength Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction) 446

Texttreasure Science is organized knowledge. Wisdom is organized life - Immanuel Kant March - April 2019


APPAREL 3.2.3 Effect on Seam Efficiency It is shown that seam efficiency has increased with the increase in sewing thread count from 60 to 150 Tex at higher value of stitch density for heavy weight denim fabric. The average seam efficiency is higher in warp direction as compared to weft direction and follows the similar trend as the seam strength.

Graph 3.9: Seam Elongation Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)

As the sewing thread number increases the seam efficiency also increases. The increase in sewing thread count at 13 SPI leads to the increase in seam efficiency from 83.13 per cent to 97.58 per cent in the warp direction and 70.82 per cent to 81.26 per cent in the weft direction Stitch density was found to have a positive influence on the seam efficiency. Higher seam efficiency is associated with higher stitch densities.

Graph 3.10: Seam Elongation Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)

The linear regression relationship in warp direction, has the following linear form: Seam Elongation (mm) =10.342 + 0.055 Sewing Thread + 3.267 Stitch Density - 6.467 Direction. The R2 value for this modelis equal 65.3%. This means that the modeldoes not fit the data well. March - April 2019

Graph 3.11: Seam Efficiency Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)

Graph 3.12: Seam Efficiency Comparison at Different Stitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction) 447

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The statistical analysis for warp direction revealed that the P-Value regarding the test of two levels of stitch density is smaller than the level of significance and three levels of sewing thread size is greater than the level of significance (0.05). So, we accept that stitch density has a significant effect and sewing thread count does not have any significant effect on seam elongation.The statistical analysis for weft direction revealed that the P-Value regarding the test of two independent variablesare greater than the level of significance (0.05). So, we accept that two independent variablesdo not have any significant effect on seam elongation.


APPAREL The statistical analysis revealed that the P-Value regarding the test of two levels of stitch density and three types of sewing thread count is greater than the level of significance, which is 0.05 for both the directions. So we accept that two levels of stitch density do not have significant difference on seam efficiency. The linear regression model which correlates the independent variables to the seam efficiency in warp direction has the following form: seam efficiency (%) = 46.208 + .173 Sewing Thread + 4.123 Stitch Density - 23.152 Direction. It was found that the model fit the data very well with a high 89.8 R2 value which is %. Conclusion This study will thus provide information on proper sewing thread selection in the manufacturing of apparel. The current study offers scientific basis for the conventional practice (i.e., the use of different stitch densities and thread types in sewing different types of fabrics). By defining the relation between seam qualities and sewing thread counts and stitch density in relation to the weight of the fabric, apparel manufacturers can make decision about the optimal sewing thread selection in apparel manufacturing. Comprising the knowledge of a specific seam that produces the greatest seam strength will be highly beneficial for new tests and products.

References 1. ASTM D6193-09. Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams. Retrieved from http://www.astm.org/ standards/D6193.htm,(2009). 2. Brown, P. and Rice, J. Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis. Prentice Hall, New Jersey, US,45,(2001). 3. Danquah, Patience Asieduah. The Effect of Thread Type, Stitch Density and Washing on Seam Performance of a Ghananian Real Wax Cotton Printed Fabric. Retrieved from http://ir.ucc.edu.gh/ dspace/bitstream/123456789/1217/1/DANQUAH %202010.pdf),(2010). 4. Fernando, S. & Jayawardena, T. Measurement of Seam Puckering and Influence of its Causes. IOSR Journal of Engineering (IOSRJEN), 4 (4),1, (2014). doi: 10.9790/3021-04460107. 5. Lapere, C. The Effects of Different Fabric Types and Seam Designs on the Seams Efficiency. Eastern Michigan University Digital Commons, 5 (3), 1,(2006). 6. Mehta, P.V. & Bhardwaj, K.S. Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry,New Age International Publishers Ltd,India, 85, (1998). 7. Nassif, A. A. N. Investigation of the Effects of Sewing Machine Parameters on the Seam Quality. Life Science Journal, 10(2), 1427,(2013). ❑ ❑ ❑

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Carbon Credit Information Carbon dioxide, the most important greenhouse gas produced by combustion of fuels, has become a cause of global panic as its concentration in the Earth's atmosphere has been rising alarmingly.

March - April 2019

Carbon credits are a part of international emission trading norms. They incentives companies or countries that emit less carbon. The total annual emissions are capped and the market allocates a monetary value to any shortfall through trading. Businesses can exchange, buy or sell carbon credits in international markets at the prevailing market price. India and China are likely to emerge as the biggest sellers and Europe is going to be the biggest buyers of carbon credits. India is one of the countries that have 'credits' for emitting less carbon. India and China have surplus credit to offer to countries that have a deficit. Carbon, like any other commodity, has begun to be traded on India's Multi Commodity Exchange. MCX has become first exchange in Asia to trade carbon credits. ◆ What is carbon credit?

As Nations have progressed, we have been emitting carbon, or gases which result in warming of the globe. Some decades ago a debate started on how to reduce the emission of harmful gases that contributes to the greenhouse effect that causes global warming. So, countries came together and signed an agreement named the Kyoto Protocol. The Kyoto Protocol has created a mechanism under which countries that have been emitting more carbon and other gases (greenhouse gases include ozone, carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide and even water vapour) have voluntarily decided that they will bring down the level of carbon they are emitting to the levels of early 1990s. Developed countries, mostly European, had said that they will bring down the level in the period from 2008 to 2012. In 2008, these developed countries have decided on different norms to bring down the level of emission fixed for their companies and factories. A company has two ways to reduce emissions. One, it can reduce the GHG (greenhouse gases) by adopting new technology or improving upon the existing technology to attain the new norms for emission of gases. Or it can tie up with developing Nations and help them set up new technology 449

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Vilas Gharat Mr. Vilas Gharat is working as a Managing Director of Gharat& Associates, having over 40 years' experience in manufacturing function in all composite sectors of Textile Industry. Out of which more than a decade in Operations and HR with emphasis in Business Process Consulting, Mr.Gharat is having Specialization in various field of textile value chain like; ◆ Change Management, Business Development and Project Management ◆ Project Management, Business Development ◆ Supply Chain Management ◆ Resource allocation ◆ Process Reengineering ◆ Change management, Production and Business ◆ Planning function ◆ Training and Mentoring CEO's He has wide experience in: ◆ Business Consultant for Oswal Hammerle, for their upcoming state of art technology plant for manufacture of sophisticated Yarn Dyed Shirting Project, primarily catering to the needs of international garment manufacturers. This is a Joint Venture project of Oswal group and F.M. Hammerle (Austria) ◆ His previous assignment involves restructuring and transformation of a large Textile units ◆ He worked with various executive capacities as Executive Director - Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd.; Senior President in S Kumar's., Technical & Commercial Advisor in J.K. Cotton Mills, Senior President in Morarjee Brembana Ltd., Birla's in Indonesia, Oswal Hammerle, Bhojsons, Nigeria etc. Mr. Gharat was awarded with FTA by The Textile Association (India) in 1999, Best General Manager Award in MSTC - National Award for energy conservation for Simplex Mills & MSTC and Best Vendor Award from Johnson & Johnson. He was in Advisory Committee Member for DKTE - Textile & Engineering Institute at Ichalkaranji from 2013 to 2016. He conducts a various professional trainings of Transformation of Leadership Program, Training in Valle Brembana for High Value Yarn Dyed Shirting. (Italy), Breaking the barrier concept training, Training for Mentoring. Presently Mr. Gharat is Managing Director: Gharat & Associates (www.gharatandassociates.com), Group Advisors: S Kumars Pvt. Ltd. (www.skumars.co) and Presidentof The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit (http://textileassociationindia.com)

This devil, however, is now turning into a product that helps people, countries, consultants, traders, corporations and even farmers earn billions of rupees. This was an unimaginable trading opportunity not more than a decade ago.


TEXPERIENCE that is eco-friendly, thereby helping developing country or its companies 'earn' credits. India, China and some other Asian countries have the advantage because they are developing countries. Any company, factories or farm owner in India can get linked to United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change and know the 'standard' level of carbon emission allowed for its outfit or activity. The extent to which I am emitting less carbon (as per standard fixed by UNFCCC) I get credited in a developing country. This is called carbon credit. These credits are bought over by the companies of developed countries -- mostly Europeans -- because the United States has not signed the Kyoto Protocol. ◆ How does it work in real life?

Assume that British Petroleum is running a plant in the United Kingdom. Say, that it is emitting more gases than the accepted norms of the UNFCCC. It can tie up with its own subsidiary in, say, India or China under the Clean Development Mechanism. It can buy the 'carbon credit' by making Indian or Chinese plant more eco-savvy with the help of technology transfer. It can tie up with any other company like Indian Oil [ Get Quote ], or anybody else, in the open market.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In December 2008, an audit will be done of their efforts to reduce gases and their actual level of emission. China and India are ensuring that new technologies for energy savings are adopted so that they become entitled for more carbon credits. They are selling their credits to their counterparts in Europe. This is how a market for carbon credit is created. Every year European companies are required to meet certain norms, beginning 2008. By 2012, they will achieve the required standard of carbon emission. So, in the coming five years there will be a lot of carbon credit deals. Message from UNFCCCC UN CLIMATE STATEMENT / 21 MAR, 2019 UNFCCC 25th Anniversary: Climate Action is More Urgent than Ever

Texttreasure The first rule of intelligent tinkering is to save all the parts. - Paul R. Ehrlich 450

Children at COP23 opening ceremony in Bonn, Germany Credit: UN Climate Change UN Climate Change News, 21 March 2019 - Today marks a special day in the history of global climate action: It marks the day when the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) first came into force. To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the entry into force, Patricia Espinosa, UN Climate Change Executive Secretary delivered remarks on this important milestone and encouraged greater ambition and action for a sustainable future. She said: "While we've made enormous progress in 25 years, the world is still running behind climate change. Today, the urgency to address climate change has never been greater. But because of the work begun 25 years ago, we are also better coordinated to take it on. We have the Paris Agreement, and we have the guidelines strengthening that agreement. What we need now are results." The EU's nationally determined contribution (NDC) under the Paris Agreement is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by at least 40% by 2030 compared to 1990, under its wider 2030 climate and energy framework. All key legislation for implementing this target has been adopted by the end of 2018. ◆ What is Clean Development Mechanism?

Under the CDM you can cut the deal for carbon credit. Under the UNFCCC, charter any company from the developed world can tie up with a company in the developing country that is a signatory to the Kyoto Protocol. These companies in developing countries must adopt newer technologies, emitting lesser gases, and save energy. Only a portion of the total earnings of carbon credits of the company can be transferred to the company of the developed countries under CDM. There is a fixed quota on buying of credit by companies in Europe. ◆ How does MCX trade carbon credits?

This entire process was not understood well by many. Those who knew about the possibility of earning profMarch - April 2019


TEXPERIENCE

Many companies did not apply to get credit even though they had new technologies. Some companies used management consultancies to make their plan greener to emit less GHG. These management consultancies then scouted for buyers to sell carbon credits. It was a bilateral deal. However, the price to sell carbon credits at was not available on a public platform.. It is traded on the European Climate Exchange. Therefore, you emit one tonne less and you get credit. Emit less and increase/ add to your profit. We at the MCX decided to trade carbon credits because we are in to futures trading. Let people judge if they want to hold on to their accumulated carbon credits or sell them now. MCX is the futures exchange. People here are getting price signals for the carbon for the delivery in next five years. Our exchange is only for Indians and Indian companies. Every year, in the month of December, the contract expires and at that time people who have bought or sold carbon will have to give or take delivery. They can fulfill the deal prior to December too, but most people will wait until December because that is the time to meet the norms in Europe. Say, if the Indian buyer thinks that the current price is low for him, he will wait before selling his credits. The Indian government has not fixed any norms nor has it made it compulsory to reduce carbon emissions to a certain level. So, people who are coming to buy from Indians are actually financial investors. They are thinking that if the Europeans are unable to meet their target of reducing the emission levels by 2009 or 2010 or 2012, then the demand for the carbon will increase and then they may make more money. So investors are willing to buy now to sell later. There is a huge requirement of carbon credits in Europe before 2012. Only those Indian companies that meet the UNFCCC norms and take up new technologies will be entitled to sell carbon credits. There are parameters set and detailed audit is done before you get the entitlement to sell the credit. In India, already 300 to 400 companies have carbon credits after meeting UNFCCC norms. Till MCX came along, these companies were not getting best-suited price. Some were getting Euro 15 and some were March - April 2019

getting Euro 18 through bilateral agreements. When the contract expires in December, it is expected that prices will be firm up then. On MCX we already have power, energy and metal companies who are trading. These companies are highenergy consuming companies. They need better technology to emit less carbon. Carbon credits are a key component of national and international attempts to mitigate the growth in concentrations of greenhouse gases (GHGs). One Carbon Credit is equal to one ton of Carbon Dioxide or in some markets Carbon Dioxide equivalent gases. Carbon trading is an application of an emissions trading approach. Greenhouse gas emissions are capped and then markets are used to allocate the emissions among the group of regulated sources. The idea is to allow market mechanisms to drive industrial and commercial processes in the direction of low emissions or less "carbon intensive" approaches than are used when there is no cost to emitting carbon dioxide and other GHGs into the atmosphere. Since GHG mitigation projects generate credits, this approach can be used to finance carbon reduction schemes between trading partners and around the world. There are also many companies that sell carbon credits to commercial and individual customers who are interested in lowering their carbon footprint on a voluntary basis. These carbon off setters purchase the credits from an investment fund or a carbon development company that has aggregated the credits from individual projects. The quality of the credits is based in part on the validation process and sophistication of the fund or development company that acted as the sponsor to the carbon project. This is reflected in their price; voluntary units typically have less value than the units sold through the rigorously-validated Clean Development Mechanism. There are two distinct types of Carbon Credits: Carbon Offset Credits (COC's) and Carbon Reduction Credits (CRC's). Carbon Offset Credits consist of clean forms of energy production, wind, solar, hydro and biofuels. Carbon Reduction Credits consists of the collection and storage of Carbon from our atmosphere through bio sequestration (reforestation, forestation), ocean and soil collection and storage efforts. Both approaches are recognized as effective ways to reduce the Global Carbon Emissions "crises". â?‘â?‘â?‘ 451

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its, adopted new technologies, saved credits and sold it to improve their bottom-line.


TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. The previous chapter dealt with the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for hydrogen storage. As the energy storage capacity, electronic and quantum phenomena are still in ever-remaining need of improvement; the chapter offered us a wonderful tool for material designing and provided many insights and ideas for us to explore hydrogen storage materials. The present chapter is based on the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for the electromagnetic interference shielding applications. As the electromagnetic properties, electronic and quantum phenomena are still in ever-remaining need of improvement; this chapter offers us a wonderful tool for EMI shielding applications.

Chapter 13 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : EMI Shielding Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Graphene is a single atomic thick plane of graphite and considered to be the thinnest material found in earth. It is characterized by sp2 bonded carbon atoms; densely packed in the form of a honeycomb crystal lattice. It has unique distinguishing features that can be exploited in developing modern sophisticated electronic equipments. Some of such properties include its high surface area, non-permeability to gases, very good thermal conductivity, stiffness and high electrical conductivity, and many more. Due to all these excellent electrical, thermal, and conducting properties, it is one of the most explored functional materials for composites application in modern electronic equipments, aerospace sectors, micro-electronics and energy storage materials. The C-C bonds in graphene having length of about 1.42 Ă… inside the given layers make them very much strong, whereas they are weaker in between the adjacent layers. Stoller et al. reported specific surface area of a single sheet of graphene as 2630 m2/g. Along with high Young's modulus (1.0 TPa) and very high carrier mobility (around 200,000 cm2/Vs), graphene also has excellent optical properties (>97.7% transmittance), with a band gap value of about 0-0.25 eV. An extraordinary conductivity enables graphene and its composites to be used for semiconductors. Application potential of nano-graphene exhibiting excellent magnetic properties in electronics and magnetic devices was reported by Enoki et al. Thermal conductivity of 452

graphene varied with relative ratio of carbon isotopes12C and 13C. In general graphene has amazing future in application of modern electronic gadgets, aerospace, medical instrumentation, automotive industry, etc. EMI Shielding In our day to day life increasing number of electronic and energy devices are being used to make our life more and more comfortable. However, various electronic gadgets like smart phones, laptops, computers, televisions fail to give their best performance due to a number of hurdles and one such hurdle is electromagnetic interference (EMI) caused due to the crisscrossing of such waves emitted from multiple equipments. On the other hand, there are also reports, indicating the possible deteriorating effects on the health of a number of living organisms due to such excessive exposure to EM waves, causing the health and safety issues. Hence, it is prudent to have new generation gadgets enclosed completely or partially with EMI shield, acting as a barrier and preventing entry or exit of electromagnetic radiations thus avoiding there interference. Upon using such EMI shields, not only the performance of such gadgets will be improved significantly, but they would also offer added safety against possible health hazards. Such gadgets with EMI shield will have increased potential of wider applications and acceptance. A number of other applications of shielding materials involve shielded cables carrying signals which require to be protected from outside EM radiations. March - April 2019


TEXNOTE

Whenever the electromagnetic waves are incident on more or less homogeneous shielding material, the incident power in such waves (Pin) either get reflected (Pref), transmitted (Ptrans) or absorbed (Pabs) and finally splits into a number of forms. Pin = P ref+P trans+P abs Normally shielding effectiveness is taken as a ratio of power transmitted/power incident and hence EMI-SE (dB) = 10log (Ptrans/Pin). Shielding effectiveness (SET) is also expressed by Saini et al. and can be measured using Scalar or Vector Network Analyzers (SNA or VNA). While non-conducting materials such as polyester, polypropylene allow complete transmission of such waves without loss of power offering no protection, the conducting materials such as graphene and CNTs and those having high dielectric constant (Barium and Titanium) and the material with magnetic permeability (Ferrous/Ferric oxide) provide the magnetic dipoles for absorption of the waves. Most of the time such shielding material absorbs the electromagnetic waves dissipating it in the form of heat and provides shielding effect. The physical vapor deposition was used with varying weight ratio of graphene and carbon nano- fibres. The composite graphene carbon nano-fibre paper showed the EMI-SE efficiency -15 dB. The maximum shielding effectiveness of -34.5 dB and corresponding loss rate of 99.97% imply pronounced absorption property of the composite materials due to irregularity in micro surface of the paper and highest electrical conductivity of graphene. One of the graphene based EMI shielding materials reports involves addition of epoxy/hardener (4:1 in acetone) solution to the suspension of partially reduced graphene (rGO) based sheets. This suspension on stirring and sonication was put into a mould and the solvent was completely evaporated. The annealing of the cut samples of composite at 2500C for 2 h under nitrogen was carried out to obtain fully reduced graphene based composites. The EMI shielding of such composites over the frequency range of 8.2-12.4 GHz (X band) March - April 2019

was found to be 21 dB for 15 wt% loading, displaying its promising potential as a shielding material. The results indicate promising potential of this lightweight graphene/ epoxy composite. The epoxy resins having alternating single and double carbon bonds create spatially delocalised electron systems. Hence, the fillers like graphene and carbon nanotubes with very high conductivity can be used for preparing the composites containing such carbon based particles for EMI shielding. Carbon nanotube and graphene when embedded in such resins offer the composite material with high EMI-SE. However, the geometry, composition, extent of the filler and the nature and morphology of the composite govern the final performance of the composite for offering protection from electromagnetic radiations. Porous graphene/polystyrene composites were prepared using high pressure compression moulding technique. The EMI-SE of 64.4 dB cm3/gm was obtained for this light weight composite and it was found to be maximum for polymer based 2.5 mm thick shielding material. Such light weight material could have applications in aerospace industries. The monolayer of graphene obtained by inductively coupled plasma (ICP) chemical vapor deposition showed EMI-SE value of 2.27 dB corresponding to 40% shielding of incident radiation. Ultrathin weightless and transparent as well as flexible EMI shielding material thus was prepared using single or few atomic layers of graphene. Such products have application in mobiles, transparent electronics, etc. High performance microwave shielding material with EMI-SE 41 dB (99.9% attenuation) were obtained when Ferro fluid composites of high conductivity were fabricated containing reduced graphene oxide (rGO) and Fe3O4 nano (5-20 nm) particles. The strong interaction between the rGO and Fe3O4 particles was established by Raman Spectroscopy reflecting the shift of rGO at a lower wave length. Such a high level of shielding was due to the cumulative contribution of Ferro fluids causing magnetic losses as a result of natural resonance and eddy currents. It was also due to rGO causing dielectric losses attributed to natural resonance, dipole relaxation, interfacial polarization, electron polarization related relaxation, residual defects in rGO sheets and higher conductivity. Such materials have great promise in building block materials with EMI shielding property. Conventionally shielding materials of metallic type though very effective, suffer from the problem of cor453

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Since the electrical conductivity of graphene is directly related to its effectiveness as shielding material, it has been reported that it decreases with increase in number of graphene layers and finally approaches the value of the conductivity of graphite. In general electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMI-SE) can be taken as sum of absorption shielding efficiency (EMI-SEabs) and reflection shielding efficiency (EMI-SEref).


TEXNOTE rosion and heavy weight and hence graphene has a promising application potential for shielding of radio and micro frequency range EM radiations. One of the reports indicates comparison of electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness (EMI-SE) in which the vacuum in filtration technique was used for making of graphene films. About 99.9% of attenuation of radiation was observed indicating very high degree of effectiveness. Use of graphene with large aspect ratio and high conductivity makes it one of the best candidates for EMI shielding materials and many such reports exist about its applications.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EMI shielding property relationship and their applications One can go for all graphene circuitry with interconnection obtained using pristine graphene and it is possible to modify them into semiconductors. The functionalised graphene are more disordered in nature and product like graphene paper possesses good porosity and extremely fragile, fly like feather. Comparatively similar paper made of graphene oxide has strength, stiffness and high density. This is because the functional groups bind the individual graphene layers together. Graphene is being looked as a material with high application potential in computer electronics. Graphene is used in transmission electron microscopy and it being single crystal and low atomic mass membrane, it provides a best imaginable support for atomic resolution TEM. Graphene based batteries, field emitters, super capacitors are also being reported. Suspensions of graphene are used for coating and wherever electromagnetic shielding is required. It is also a best material for nano electro mechanical systems which are used for sensing operation due to its stiffness and lower weight. A segregated structure of an in-situ thermally reduced graphene oxide/polyethylene (T-rGO/UHMPE) conductive composite gave an excellent EMI-SE up to 28.332.4 dB even at 0.660 vol.% of rGO. It was due to absorption rather than reflection since contribution towards EMI-SE absorption was 95.5% of the total SE and EMI-SE reflection was only 3.5%. Also with increase in content of T-rGO in the composite, SE was also found to be increasing. Hence, thermally reduced graphene oxide and ultra high modulus polyethylene (TRGO/UHMPE) composites can be used as EMI shielding or absorption materials for consumer, medical and automotive electronics. A multilayered graphene nanosheets/polymer (PVA) composite were prepared in paraffin-based sandwich structures. They had good flexibility and showed high degree of EMI-SE. This was mainly due to reflection 454

of electromagnetic waves. Depending upon the threshold value of EMI-SE for given application, optimisation of such composite geometry can be done which may require varying thickness and thus increased number of layers of graphene sheets may be used. The optimized shielding effectiveness up to 27 dB was observed. It provides simple techniques to achieve lightweight graphene-based composite films and coatings for EMI shielding. A flexible and lightweight reduced graphene oxide-based composite were prepared using electrospun waterborne polyurethane (WPU) polymer matrix with sulfonate functional groups. The layer-by-layer (LBL) technique was used to prepare first graphene oxide (GO)/WPU composites. In this case two oppositely charged suspensions of GO, one containing cationic surfactant (didodecyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, DDAB) adsorbed GO and other with negatively charged GO were used to cover WPU fibres with GO bi-layers. These WPU electrospun fibres covered with GO established fine connections. Subsequently on reduction of the same using hydroiodic acid gave highly reduced graphene oxide (rGO)/WPU composites with enhanced surface area at the interface. Such flexible light weight composites displayed exceptionally high electrical conductivity (approximately 16.8 S/m) and high EMI-shielding effectiveness (approximately 34 dB) over the frequency range from 8.2 to 12.4 GHz. Such materials can find applications in soft portable electronic products, healthmonitoring electronic skins and roll-up displays. It is known that high electrical conductivity and the completeness of the networks of electrical conduction play a big role in EMI-shielding performance of composites. WPU nano fibre after cycles of LBL assembly offer the continued conductive paths which on reduction form rGOs and thus display increased amount of EMI-SE. Increased surface area of rGO sheets at the interface of nano composites enable absorption of EM waves and prevent escape of the same converting them into heat energy and exhibiting high EMI-SE. This effect is mainly due to the absorption of EM radiations as EMI-SE for absorption was almost close to the value of EMI-SE total and contribution due to reflection was negligible. With increase in the layers of rGO on WPU up to 15 was conducive to increase EMI-SE. However, at 20 layers, it does not show further increase simply because of inability of hyrdoiodic acid to reduce the lower layers of GO to enable the formation of connected networks. A large thickness of low density graphene papers (GP) limits its use in consumer electronics. Hence, ultra thin March - April 2019


GPs are required. Such materials are reported for obtaining highly effective shielding capabilities (SE of 19.0 dB at 0.1 mm thickness and 46.3 dB at 0.3 mm thickness). It is one of the best in category of thinnest GPs. For high SE of 47.7 dB at 0.1 mm, a double layered GP or shielding attenuators have been reported which are cost effective, light weight and flexible. EMI shielding effectiveness increased by 100 times in case of foamed composites compared to unfoamed composites of polycarbonate/graphene nanoplatelets composites; where in super critical carbon dioxide was used as a foaming agent. This EMI shielding is majorly based on reflection mechanism and it was due to randomly oriented graphene particles during foaming. EMISE was found to be as high as 78 dB cm3/g which was 7 times higher than solid copper. Summary Graphene has found a firm paramount role in revolutionizing the field of electronics which is increasingly in demand in various disciplines of science and technology. With improving life style, the complex needs of the modern day consumers, sometimes diametrically opposite such as high electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness with high degree of transparency, has propelled the demand for such products. As the methods of synthesis of graphene are further being fine tuned and bulk manufacturing with highest precision in quality becomes possible, the devices based on composites of graphene will fall in the reach of the wider population due to lowering of the prices getting the benift of economies of scale. The literature reviewed clearly indicates that the purity of graphene, thickness, lightness and transparency in composites with polymer matrix, reactivity with such matrix, surface area, foaming of graphene based composites, etc have great influence on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. Since the relationship of all these structural and process parameters on EMIshielding effectiveness, thermal conductivity, etc are correlated with shielding mechanism based on reflection, absorption, internal reflection and polarisation, etc, the manipulation of such parameters with reference to the final performance in the form of extent of EMI-SE value required, is becoming scientifically possible. However, not all graphene based composites need to have all kinds of performance properties in one material and thus special end use application of them, will decide what properties are to be enhanced and fine tuned.

Bibliography 1. Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K. Morozov S. V., Jiang D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. A. and Firsov A. A., Science, 306, 666-669, (2004). 2. Stoller M. D., Park S., Zhu Y., An J. and Ruoff R. S., Nano letters, 8, 3498-3502, (2008). 3. Geim A. K. and Novoselov K. S., Nature Mater., 6, 183-191, (2007). 4. Enoki T. and Kobayashi Y., J. Mater. Chem., 15, 3999-4002, (2005). 5. Chen S., Wu Q., Mishra C., Kang J., Zhang H., Cho K. and Ruoff, R. S., Nature Mater, 11, 203207, (2012). 6. Nirmalraj P. N., Lutz T., Kumar S., Duesberg G. S. and Boland J. J., Nano Lett., 11, 16-22, (2011). 7. Cao M. S., Song W. L., Hou Z. L., Wen B. and Yuan J., Carbon, 48, 788-796, (2010). 8. Saini P., Choudhary V., Singh B. P., Mathur R. B. and Dhawan S. K., Mater. Chem. Phys., 113, 919926, (2009). 9. Chung D. D. L., J. Mater. Eng. Perform., 9, 350354, (2000). 10. Motojima S., Noda Y., Hoshiya S. and Hishikawa, Y., J. Appl. Phys., 94, 2325-2330, (2003). 11. Yan D. X., Ren P. G., Pang H., Fu Q., Yang M. B. and Li Z. M., J. Mater. Chem., 22, 18772-18774, (2012). 12. Mishra M., Singh A. P., Singh B. P., Singh V. N. and Dhawan S. K., J. Mater. Chem. A., 2, 1315913168, (2014). 13. Hernandez Y., Nicolosi V., Lotya M., Blighe F. M., Sun Z., McGovern I. T., Holland B., Byrne M., Gun'Ko Y. K., Boland J. J., Peter N., Duesberg G., Krishnamurthy S., Goodhue R., Hutchison J., Scardaci V., Ferrari A. C. and Coleman J. N., Nat Nano., 3, 563-568, (2008). 14. Robinson J. T., Zalalutdinov M., Baldwin J. W., Snow E. S., Wei Z., Sheehan P. and Houston B. H., Nano Lett., 8, 3441- 3445, (2008). 15. Song W. L., Cao M. S., Lu M. M., Bi S., Wang C. Y., Liu J. and Fan, L. Z., Carbon, 66, 67-76, (2014). 16. Al-Saleh M. H. and Sundararaj U., Carbon, 47, 1738-1746, (2008). 17. Zhang H. B., Zheng W. G., Yan Q., Jiang Z. G. and Yu Z. Z., Carbon, 50, 5117-5125, (2012). 18. Chung D. D. L., Carbon, 39, 279-285, (2001). 19. Hsiao S. T., Ma C. C. M., Liao W. H., Wang Y. S., Li S. M., Huang Y. C. and Liang W. F., ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces., 6, 10667-10678, (2014). 20. Song W. L., Fan L. Z., Cao M. S., Lu M. M., Wang C. Y., Wang J., Chen T. T., Li Y., Hou Z. L., Liu J. and Sun Y. P. J. Mater. Chem. C., 2, 50575064, (2014). ❑❑❑

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TEXNOTE


UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India) TAI - Madhya Pradesh Unit Successfully organized National Textile Summit 2019 by TAI M.P. Unit TAI M.P. Unit has been establish in the year of 1944. TAI MP Unit celebrated Platinum Jubilee of its establishment and also organised National Textile Summit 2019 on 2nd March 2019. The program once again unite the textile technologist, industrialist and academic on one platform. The program made huge success with the participation of around 200 delegates from all over the Nation. The program stared with the health management program given by Mr. Arun Rishi on "Stress Management" which is need of an hour. Inaugural session witness presence of the industry leader and government officials. Mr. S. Pal, Director (Bhopal Operation), Vardhamn Group was the Chief Guest of the occasion along with Mr. D. K. Mittal President, Maral Overseas Ltd., Mr. A. K. Srivastava, Cotton Confederation of India, Mr. Pranav Parashar, Regional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore and Mr. Awadhesh Sharma, Hon. Joint General Secretary, TAI.

At the start dignitaries on dais lighten the lamp and gave obituary to the Late Mr. R. L.Toshniwal, Ex CMDof Banswara Syntexand martyrs of CRPF soldiers in Pulwama attack. Mr. Awadhesh Kumar Sharma given the keynote speech and benefits of the platform and associations. Mr. CS Sunil Jain gave his excellent speech on GST and its implementation in industry. He also insisting the reforms required in GST.Mr. Thakur of Indian ITME Society present about its prospect international show ITME Africa 2020, first of its kind at footfall of any Indian venture at global level in textile manufacturing sector. Mr. Baddrudin Khan, Manager, Multi Commodity Exchange of India presented prospect and role of MCX in the procurement of the cotton. Mr. Manoj Kumar, K.G., Chief General Manager, NTC, Mumbai presented an excellent presentation on the role of energy and its audit in the various area of spinning mills. Mr. R.N. Yadav, Mr. A.K. Srivastava, Mr. Pranav Parashar, Dr. Mahavir Jain and Mr. V.K. Chaudhary also enlighten the audience with their word of wisdom. Mr. S. Pal insisted in his speech that need of an hour is to understand the role of human resource management in successful operations of the textile sectors, which is often neglected. He also advocated the change in government policy as per need of industry and demand of the time.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In this occasion, Textile Excellence Award was honored by TAI MP Unit to Mr. S. Pal, Mr. Manoj Kumar, Mr. K.G., Mr. Sandeep Sharma and Mr. D. K. Mittal. CS Sunil Jain, CA Ajit Jain, Mr. R. N. Yadav, Mr. Sushil Moghe, Ms. Pritibala Warate, Mr. S. C. Bansal, Mr. Manohar Lal and Mr. T. K. Sinha for their service contribution to TAI MP Unit. In this occasion 15 new members have taken the membership of TAI and greeted on dais. At last vote of thanks was proposed by Mr. Ashok Veda. Delegates enjoyed the buffet. The second part of the delegates enjoyed old musical melody presented by Om Sai Orchestras with his 25 members. Dignitaries on this occasion enjoyed the dinner at Indore Tennis Club. 456

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NEWS

Report of National Conference on "Recent Developments in Sustainable Textiles, Clothing and Coloration The Department of Textile and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan conducted one day National Conference on the 15th of March, 2019. This conference was overwhelming as it marked the Ruby Jubilee of the Department.

Ms. Noemia D'Souza. The theme for this year 'TrendSustain' was well explained and a detailed journey of the department and how it grew and moulded along time was beautifully presented by her. Ms. Noemia's words of knowledge and wisdom were successful in drawing wandering minds towards the path of determination. A true Guru, she is one of those who has built an empire of love and knowledge and is yet an epitome of humility and simplicity. Few of the alumni including the faculty of the department shared their treasured experiences with Ms. D'Souza.

Welcome of Chief Guest Ms. Noemia D'Souza Founder Head of the Department and Former Principal, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

Hosts, Guests and Dignitaries at the Seminar

This occasion was graced by the presence of the Founder Head of the Department and Former Principal, Ms. Noemia D'Souza as Chief Guest. The event started with the auspicious ceremony of lighting of the lamp and a prayer dance by alumnus Ms. Gayatri Bhat, a renowned Kathak dancer. The guests and students were addressed with a welcome speech by the Principal Dr. Geeta Ibrahim. The President of Nirmala Niketan Institute, Dr. Magy Allessu then conveyed her Presidential Address. This was followed by HOD Dr. Ela Dedhia introducing the topic of the conference "Recent Developments in Sustainable Textiles, Clothing and Coloration" and also introducing the Chief Guest, March - April 2019

The technical session began with the Keynote speaker Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTek Technical Services. Through a well prepared Power Point presentation, Mr. Nimkar explained the history of textiles and clothing, discovery of oil, birth of synthetic dye chemistry and threw light on the furious pace with which humans consume resources and generate waste. He also gave a brief about the explosion of chemical production, effects of population explosion, the global impact of globalization and its impact on human health and environment. The technical session began with the Keynote speaker Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTek Technical Services. Through a well prepared Power Point presentation, Mr. Nimkar explained the history of textiles and clothing, discovery of oil, birth of synthetic dye chemistry and threw light on the furious pace with which humans consume resources and generate waste. 457

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Felicitation of Keynote speaker Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, Nimkar Tek Technical Services.


NEWS He also gave a brief about the explosion of chemical production, effects of population explosion, the global impact of globalization and its impact on human health and environment. He emphasized on the relevance of sustainable development, tools to measuring sustainability, the importance of Ecologic Footprint, and garment recycling initiatives taken up by different international brands like H&M, NIKE and M&S.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The session on "Inclusive Sustainability" included two resource persons. Mr. Nitin Shah, Hon. Secretary of The Society for the Vocational Rehabilitation of the Retarded, Tardeo. He spoke about his motive of starting the NGO and how the long and tedious process of painstakingly teaching skills to the differently-abled has enabled them to be productive and independent. The other speaker in this session was Ms. Amisha Parekh Founder, SEVA NGO. She spoke about her ongoing journey of working on the development and social upgradation of the tribal people from Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Borivali. The products made by these tribals using natural yarns and fabrics, she informed have become a sensation amongst common people as well as industries and are in the process of gaining international recognition. Her infectious enthusiasm and never say die attitude was very inspiring and evidence enough to understand the reason for her success. Both the speakers of this session appreciated the contribution made by the students of the Department of Textile and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science for the work done in these NGOs and expressed that they wish to continue the collaboration.

message of never letting others underestimate ones capabilities and dictate ones choices was really inspiring. She also showed a well made video about her company, Bunko Junko. The other speaker in this session was Mr. Sarfaraz Khatri, CEO Pracheen. A third generation artisan and a self motivated individual who is passionate about exploring, creating and implementing new ideas explained his journey of keeping alive the tradition of block printing with natural dyes. His association with designers like Rohit Bal, Priyadarshani Rao, and Donna Karan, New York, was proof of his success and the increasing popularity of traditional Indian textiles all over the world. The technical session on "Sustainable Marketing" had Ms. Monal Zaveri, Marketing Manager, Brand Developer and Product Coordinator, Milaaya Embroideries as one of the speakers. A very dynamic personality, Ms. Zaveri spoke about sustainable marketing and explained the marketing strategies adapted by various international brands through a very informative PowerPoint presentation. She also drew attention to the fact that the craze for ever-changing fashion made it one of most polluting industries. Speaker, Mr. Viral Dedhia, Director Easytech Innovations and a young budding entrepreneur, who has various startups to his credit, spoke about Smart Textiles, innovations such as 'The Smart Shirt' and gave an interesting talk on how smart technology works. Dr. Vijay Habbu, Senior Vice President PETCHEM, Reliance Industries, the Guest of Honour at the Valedictory function explained in detail, the sustainable polymeric science and synthetic fibres.

Guests and Dignitaries with Department Faculty at the Seminar

The session on "Nature-Sustainable Palette" had Ms. Bhavini Parikh as one of the resource persons. A woman with a vision she has founded 'Bunko Junko' an entire brand of women's clothing and accessories that are made from pre-consumer waste fabrics. Ms Parikh explained her journey from a being a timid Home Science graduate to a successful entrepreneur. Her 458

Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTek Technical Services delivering keynote address March - April 2019


NEWS

Valedictory Address by Dr. Vijay Habbu

The winners of the competition were: First prize: Ms. Dolly Gala- Alumnus College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan Second prize: Ms. Sakina Merchant- MSc II, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan Third prize: Ms. Jinal Sangani: Ph.D Scholar, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan Consolation prize: Ms. Swamini Binsale- MSc II, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

Second prize: Ms. Sakina Merchant- MSc II,

Third prize: Ms. Jinal Sangani: Ph.D Scholar Consolation prize: Ms. Swamini Binsale- MSc II

In continuation with the theme "Trend Sustain", a market was organized alongside the conference. Appropriately named "Jamboree Sustainable Haat", it had stalls put up by various NGOs, and artisans. Patronized by one and all, it was a pleasure to see the beneficiaries of the NGOs proudly exhibit, market and sell their products. In addition to this, Workshops and Intercollegiate competitions were also held in the month of January 2019 in line with the theme "Trend Sustain".

Texttreasure

First prize: Ms. Dolly Gala - Alumnus March - April 2019

Technology means the systematic application of scientific or other organized knowledge to practical tasks. - J. K. Galbraith 459

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This was followed by a poster/model presentation. The students of the M.Sc. II of College of Home Science, presented models based on the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of The United Nations and delegates from other colleges presented posters on other topics based on sustainability. They were judged by a panel of experienced judges from the field of academics as well as industry, such as Ms. Noemia D'Souza, Founder Head of the Department of Textile and Clothing and Former Principal, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, Dr. Bilkis Tavawala Former Head Department of Post Graduate Studies and Research, SNDT Women's University and Mr. Arvind, Director Enlearning.


NEWS

Complete systems made by KARL MAYER for the efficient processing of tape yarns KARL MAYER is taking over the ISO film cutting and stretching unit from the bs Group

R to L: Bernd Stoll, the CEO of the bs Group, signing the contract for the takeover of the ISO unit, Christopher Stoll from the Sales Division of the bs Group and Manfred Reinhold, a member of Management at KARL MAYER

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

KARL MAYER has become a producer of complete systems for the production of packaging sacks and shading nets, and the company has extended its production repertoire in order to do this. In future, KARL MAYER will produce the ISO unit for cutting and stretching and continue to manufacture warp knitting machines for processing foil tapes. The FTL 1, FTL 2 and FTL 3 models are all part of the ISO film cutting and stretching unit. This unit was previously supplied by the bs Group. With the signing of a contract on 26.04.2019, the machine rights, the spare parts business, and engineering expertise have all been transferred to KARL MAYER. The transfer of knowledge has been carried out on the basis of a tried-and-tested process. By taking over the machines, KARL MAYER can react even more flexibly to the needs of its clients. "We now have a proven product, which is already established on the market, in our repertoire, and this

gives us the scope that we need for making further developments. 'Everything from a single source and made by KARL MAYER'. We can now carry on with optimising our raschel machines by introducing innovative material feed systems," says Herbert Lohr, the Head of KARL MAYER's Warp Knitting Business Unit. Best of technology and a non-stop process The ISO unit is located at the beginning of the processing chain for producing packaging and shading nets. The unit uses slitting bars to cut the tapes from a primary film. These are then stretch in a heating zone to produce monoaxial, flat tape yarns, which are fed to a raschel machine - reliably and consumption-dependent. The thickness, strength and delivery speed are all consistent and accurate. The in-line system integration of the two production systems enables a delivery rate of up to 85 m/min to be reached. In this case, the tape yarns may have a minimum thickness of just 0.016 mm approximately and a width of 0.5 to 0.7 mm. The ISO system is also flexible, thanks to its modular design. Depending on the width, number of guide bars and gauge of the subsequent machine, as well as the desired tape width as it enters the machine, a number of ISO slitting and drawing modules can be combined. The unit is also easy to operate and has a sturdy design and long service life. This performance profile enables the subsequent raschel machine to operate to its maximum potential. Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH BrĂźhlstraĂ&#x;e 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Align your company with the growing authority in Textiles 460

March - April 2019


NEWS

Highlights of Cotton Conclave 2019 Discovering economics of cotton to prevent poverty and promote prosperity Mr. Manish Daga of Cotton Guru organised a Cotton Conclave 2019 initiative with Indian Merchants Chamber (IMC - ERTF) on 26-04-2019 at WalchandHirachand Hall, IMC Building, Churchgate, Mumbai.

2. The Conclave aims to find our sustainable solutions for the following major burning issues. 1. How can cotton economics help to overcome the current farm distress and related unemployment problem in India? 2. How to make cotton textiles industry, the darling of investors? This Cotton Conclave is the world's one and only conference with 1. Presence of ◆ 32 progressive farmers from across the country ◆ 124 thought leaders representing the entire cotton textile value chain including ginners, spinners, garmentors, brands, research scientists, seed cos., agri input cos., etc. ◆ 4 Heads of various Textile Associations ◆ 11 key Government officials and policy makers ◆ 7 prime investors of textile equities ◆ 5 leading textile media representatives

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March - April 2019

Presentation of "COTTONGURU® PradarshanKhet" model projects where COTTONGURU® teamhas worked for 6 months with progressive farmers in their farms to enhance their yields and quality helping them to market their produce such that they earn profit in cotton farming. Special award for Shri Ashish Hande, a young progressive farmer from Vidarbha, for his excellent work in creating "COTTONGURU PradarshanKhet" and being an inspiration and trainer for many of famers in that area. Passionate appeal by Shri Pashabhai Patel (Chairman, Agriculture Price Commission, Maharashtra) that he guarantees quality cotton supply from minimum 50 villages of Maharashtra if the cotton textile industry is ready to buy cotton at attractive prices. Immediate response by Shri BhupendrasinghRajpal (Pappuseth) of M/s Manjeet Cotton, the biggest cotton ginner of India, that he will buy all the seed cotton (kapas) at a premium of Rs. 400 per quintal (Rs. 200 for contamination controlled cotton and Rs. 200 if the cotton tests 31mm). Detailed cotton crop report by Shri AtulGanatra (Present, CAI). Most significant declaration by Ms. Ali Rani (CMD, CCI) that CCI is planning a platform of atleast 25 profit making public sector enterprises to undertake mechanisation of harvesting of cotton. Extraordinary presentation by Federation of Seed Industries of India (FSII) on "How to increase the cotton yield in India", the most important fac461

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Following were the Partners: Mission Partner: Confederation of Indian Textile Industries (CITI), Farmer Partner: Federation of Seed Industries of India (FSII) Forex Partner: Edelweiss Securities Ltd.


NEWS tor to help Double the farmers' income. 9.

Introduction of

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆ India's most innovative cotton textile hub-

Hinganghat, Maharashtra comprising of; a) APMC: The biggest and most farmer sup portive in Maharashtra. b) GimatexIndustries (P) Ltd: Most integrated textile unit. c) Pee Vee Textiles (P) Ltd: Most innovative spinning unit using robotics. d) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd: Best ginning factory making contamination controlled cotton and generating handsome premium. ◆ Latest farm technologies: NaPanta mobile App by young and dynamic V.Naveenkumar of Hyderabad. The App is being used by over 1.25 lakh farmers in A.P. and Telangana. The App was immediately downloaded in the mobile phone of all attending farmers for im mediate benefits. 10. Launch of special edition of COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 Annual Magazine containing White Paper No. 1.0 released during Cotton Conclave 2018, which has proved to be a roadmap for the cottontextile industry throughout the year. The magazine also consists of some important and relevantarticles of COTTONGURU® Shri Manish Daga written for various International and Domestic textile magazines. 11. Declaration of formation of COTTON FORUM, a core group for integrating the developments arising out of COTTON CONCLAVE® and executing the White Paper No. 1.0 & 2.0. The current members of COTTON FORUM are; a) Shri SureshbhaiKotak (Chaiman, Kotak Group) b) Shri G.Chandrasekhar (IMC-ERTF) c) Shri AtulbhaiGanatra (President, CAI) d) Shri Sanjay Jain (President, CITI) e) Shri Arvind Sinha (Ex-President, TAI) f) Shri Manish Daga (COTTONGURU®) 12. Drafting, printing and submission of White Paper No. 2.0 comprising of sustainable solutions to the 3 burning issues facing the cotton textile industry, and India: a) How do we encash the cotton economy to prevent poverty and promote prosperity in India? b) How do we make cotton/textile industry the darling of investors? c) How do we increase the cotton yields in India? 462

The dynamic thought leaders who had participated in COTTON CONCLAVE® 2018 shared their progress reports of last year based on the take away from the Conclave and WhitePaper. Some of them are: a) Gimatex Industries (P) Ltd, Maharashtra started a special Biotech plant for value addition of cotton by-products. b) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd, Maharashtra generated premium for every bale manufactured keeping in mind the Red Light shown in Conclave that "Contamination is discounted". c) Anilkumar& Co, Karnataka organised a joint programme with state seed association to help farmers get best quality seeds. d) AmrutraoDeshmukh, award winner farmer for highest yield in Maharashtra, travelled with COTTONGURU across 600 villages, training 20000 farmers for increasing yield. All in all, COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 gave a perfect platform to India's most progressive cotton farmers, cotton textile supply chain stake holders, Government officials and textile investors to openly share their views and integrate their efforts on solutions rather than problems. The solutions, formatted in White Paper No. 2.0, if executed well, will ensure sustainable prosperity for the entire cotton value chain and contribute to create a conducive atmosphere of high employment, entrepreneurship and investment thereby helping enhance India's GDP.

Texttreasure To know the history of science is to recognize the mortality of any claim to universal truth - Evelyn Fox Keller March - April 2019


NEWS

Innovations from the textile world for modern life KARL MAYER will be presenting state-of-the art technology and best-of-textile solutions for warp knitting, warp preparation and technical textiles at ITMA, 20.-26.6.2019 in Barcelona

ration sector, a completely new machine for composite materials, and new products of the software trendsetter of the industry, KM.ON. The subject of "Future in Textiles" will also showcase well-thought-out textile solutions for modern living and highlight the most important trends of our times - digitisation and sustainability. Innovative warp preparation technology for processing high-quality yarns and a display of exciting fabrics will round off KARL MAYER's presentation at ITMA.

Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Karl Mayer showcasing State of Art Technology and Best of Textile Solutions in ITMA 2019 KARL MAYER showcasing the State of Art Technology and Best of Textile Solutions for Warp Knitting, Warp Preparation and Technical Textiles at ITMA, 20. - 26. 06. 2019, Stand 8.0/B107 in Barcelona. KARL MAYER can be found on Stand 8.0/B107 at the ITMA 2019 trade fair. This innovative textile machinery manufacturer will present here technical pioMarch - April 2019

neering solutions for an efficient, flexible production in the fields of Warp Knitting, Warp Preparation and Technical Textiles, as well as new digital products of the sector's software trendsetter, KM.ON. Moreover, under the motto "Future of Textiles" the company will present clever textile solutions for new, exciting applications and markets as well as contributions to the topic of sustainability. Progressive warp preparation 463

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

KARL MAYER will take its visitors on a voyage of discovery through the textile world of tomorrow at ITMA, which is to be held from 20 to 26 June 2019. The meeting-point for all this will be at stand 8.0/B107 on the exhibition site in Barcelona. Here, the visitors can expect a display of highly efficient, complete solutions for production, which will give them the edge over their competitors in the long term. The show includes flexible, trendsetting machines with excellent cost :benefit ratios for use in warp knitting, innovations in warp sampling and direct warping for the warp prepa-

This innovative show is intended to inspire the sector. "With the innovations that we intend to show at ITMA, we are forging a link from machine building, through applications, textiles and yarns, to the world of digitisation. With our holistic approach, we meet the demands of the upheavals of our time. The nature of production, as well as the use of resources and new technology, and the development of new fabrics and textile materials are all changing radically. These farreaching changes are throwing up many questions. With the offers of our company, we want to provide our customers with answers and make them confident that their future will be a successful one," says Arno Gärtner, KARL MAYER's CEO.


NEWS technology for processing high-quality yarns and an experience world with fabrics full of creative ideas will round off KARL MAYER's presence at ITMA. 1. Warp-knitting machines with improved priceperformance ratio and new textile products In the field of raschel machines a new RSJ 4/1 EL will be premiered at ITMA. Offering 50 % more working width at the same speed compared to its predecessor, this machine is highly productive and uniquely flexible. Thanks to the EL technology, it is possible to ensure a rapid pattern change and to produce patterns with long repeats. For the development of new articles, the innovative model takes full advantage of the integration into the KM.ON eco system. This machine is the first representative which in the product category k.innovation, provides optimum support for the virtual textile development commonly used today.

Composite Machine

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

OJ91B

Under the LACE.EXPRESS trademark, KARL MAYER launched the OJ series in 2016, perfectly tailored to the special needs of the apparel market. At ITMA 2019, this manufacturer will now present a selfcontained, complete 134" machine platform for the intimate sector. The company will offer a B- (Back) version and a F-Jacquard (Front) version for each of the representatives. The special highlight of the system: the related models are compatible to one another. Every machine can be upgraded to the technical level of high-bar platform neighbours. Low-bar articles can 464

be produced on high-bar machines without any adjustments. In this way, the customer benefits from highest flexibility. In Barcelona an OJ 91/1 B will be on show. Besides, in its "Future of Textiles" Application Show, KARL MAYER will be presenting extraordinary product developments, that require little effort during making-up but offer a lot of chic and function: well thoughtout solutions for highly comfortable bras with few seams, a sporty body made from novel power lace with shaping and supporting effects as well as a swimsuit in lace look. As far as the double raschel technology is concerned, KARL MAYER will show how a new RDPJ 6/2 EL machine can be used to open up a previously unknown product world. The outstanding warp-knits are marketed under 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS. They attract attention by pronounced, three-dimensional and manifold patternings on the outer sides, but they can also show open-work patterns, that are a clear advantage over competitive products of circular knitting. Eyecatching 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS articles can be seen in the "Future of Textiles" area. A live machine demonstration will be organized to present the RDPJ 6/2 EL, 138?, in a gauge of E 24. As innovation in the field of tricot machines, KARL MAYER will be displaying the first three-bar HKS model with electronic guide bar control. The new HKS 3-M-ON offers the same performance in terms of speed and design variety as the previous version, but thanks to an innovative gear solution it is faster and simpler during pattern change. Instead of pattern disks, it is only necessary to exchange data. The required information can simply be downloaded to the machine from a secured cloud. In Barcelona, a HKS 3-M-ON, 180?, in E 28, will demonstrate its flexibility during a performance show while working an eye-catching demonstration pattern, showing the interlinking of different lappings. 2. Innovations for the entire warp preparation sector KARL MAYER will showcase its new MULTIMATICÂŽ 32 for producing sample and short production warps. This new machine impresses with its excellent price-performance ratio. and offers all the advantages of the KAMCOSÂŽ 2 platform. Thanks to the integrated OPC UA interface in particular, the machine can be digitally networked and the operating data can be collected in real time. March - April 2019


NEWS

Moreover, KARL MAYER will be showing the new stop motion MULTIGUARD as prototype. Positioned at the exit to the creel, this newcomer continuously determines the yarn tension values of all the yarns, thus, also controlling any yarn breakages and tension peaks. Guests will be able to experience the latest generation of sectional warping machines via a live link at KARL MAYER's German site in Hausen. The PROWARP® will be demonstrating its new features and capabilities. The latest innovations include a modern module for the camera-assisted recording of production data, which is important for the high reproducibility of beam build-up. The PROACTIVE Warping is also new. This new brand is a self-learning quality control system, which records the quality-relevant beam parameters by means of sensors and compares them with the target values. If any deviations occur, the production data are optimised accordingly when processing repeat orders. A high beam quality can be achieved, irrespective of the operatives. With models and presentations, KARL MAYER will be showing innovative technical solutions for guaranteeing improved efficiency and sustainability in the denim production in its "Future of Textiles" sector. One main focus in this context is the topic of SUSTAINABLE DENIM. KARL MAYER presents a newly developed technology for an indigo dyeing process in nitrogen atmosphere, which ensures an optimum setting of the dye in terms of solidity and brilliant tone, at the same time requiring less dye bath volume, chemicals and water. The dyeing process ensures highest efficiency. Also on show will be the new LINK-MATIC® system for the automatic knotting of the batches on the PRODYE-S indigo machine and the PROSIZE sizing machine. By means of this innovation it is possible to reduce retooling times to just a few minutes. The almost continuous production increases machine efficiency, at the same time reducing waste yarn and March - April 2019

personnel expenditure. The perfect arrangement of the warp after retooling reduces the share of second-grade fabric. 3. Premiere of a composite machine and innovative technical applications KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is continuing to develop into a systems supplier for noncrimped fabrics (NCFs) and is launching a new line for producing thermoplastic unidirectional tapes (UD tapes). The company is already known for its multiaxial warp knitting machines and its fibre spreading unit. This newcomer combines a completely revised spreading module with well-thought-out impregnation technology in a continuous, efficient processing sequence. The seamless interface guarantees a consistently high spreading quality. With their high quality and precise alignment of the continuous fibres, the tapes are ideal for use in highly stressed, fibre-reinforced, lightweight structures. The thermoplastic matrix also allows for effective processing, enabling mass production to be carried out. The new line, with its high production speed and ability to produce tapes in a broad range of widths, is also suitable for mass production. Not only the new machine will be presented at ITMA, but also one of the products produced on it, together with the sequences for producing a structural component for the automobile sector. In the "Future of Textiles" area, the visitors will have the opportunity to see very promising applications for the textiles manufactured on the machines made by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. The focus here is on the issue of concrete components reinforced with carbon or glass fibre NCFs rather than steel. By using textile concrete, it is possible to save up to 70% of the concrete and, as a result, CO2 emissions, energy and component weight can all be reduced. Other promising applications of technical warp-knitted textiles in the construction sector include cost-effective, flexible, stable roofing materials and bitumen roofing felts, special plaster grids that increase the cracking resistance in the plaster, and self-adhesive tapes for repairing any cracks and holes that do occur. Besides, an innovative solution for personal protection equipment will also be showcased: a new bulletproof vest made from an aramid NCF that is both effective and comfortable to wear. The functional textile was produced on a multiaxial warp-knitting machine, type COP MAX 5 with online spreading process. 465

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Regarding the direct beamers, KARL MAYER has consistently pursued its twin product line strategy. The new ISODIRECT was successfully launched at ITMA ASIA 2018 as a standard model, and the PRODIRECT will be presented to the public as a version for the premium market at the next ITMA in Barcelona. The latest electronic systems, the KAMCOS® 2 platform, and sophisticated technical solutions make this new machine the high-end model that achieves optimum levels in terms of quality and productivity.


NEWS ments, which will enable customers to shorten their time-to-market considerably by adapting their workflows and processes. For example, the software is not installed in situ but is used via a browser. This enables several users to cooperate.

PRODIRECT

The key for accessing all the KM.ON solutions, k.ey, has also been upgraded. It also enables KARL MAYER's older machines, equipped with KAMCOS® 1, to be integrated as well as machines belonging to the Warp Preparation Business Unit. 5. Ecological solutions from the machine to the textile KARL MAYER keeps the focus on the topic of sustainability. In the course of the generation change of the high-performance warp-knitting machines, almost all models have been equipped with LEO®. The Low Energy Option enables an average energy saving of 10% compared to conventional counterparts, thus, helping to reduce the consumption of resources.

RDPJ 6 2 EL

4. Expanding the portfolio of solutions of the digital brand KM.ON At ITMA ASIA 2018, KARL MAYER launched its own digital brand, KM.ON, the associated digital product portfolio with eight categories, and the first solutions. Other offers will follow just in time for the next ITMA in Barcelona.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

k.production is also launching its first product. This new digital tool combines a PDA system with a ticket system to enable any disruptions in production to be managed efficiently. Main advantages: Any problems can be dealt with quickly, and the root cause can be tackled rapidly by displaying the relevant sequence. k.management enables the current production process to be viewed remotely and now includes a greater range of parameters. The key performance indicator, warp beam running time, is a new feature. It provides information quickly and clearly on imminent beam changes, and thus contributes to reducing downtimes and maintenance times. The new features in the k.maintenance system focus on the topic of planned maintenance. With specified maintenance plans and active reminders of pending jobs, this tool should help to minimise the risk of machine breakdowns. The k.innovation covers the first software develop466

Moreover, it is possible to process resource-saving yarns on KARL MAYER machines. In Barcelona, a HKS 3M EN will work a textile completely from a recycled filament yarn on the basis of bottle flakes, produced by Trevira. The article carries the new SINFINECO label, which is granted by the fibre manufacturer for textiles made from his sustainable products. A selection of sustainable warp-knits and application concepts is offered by KARL MAYER's "Future of Textiles" section under CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS. These include warp-knitted articles as ecologically beneficial alternative to woven fabrics for modern streetwear and TERRY.ECO terry textiles. TERRY.ECO represents an efficient technological solution for more sustainability, for energy- and resourcesaving systems during terry fabric production. The topic of SUSTAINABLE DENIM is especially addressed to the manufacturers belonging to the denim sector. For more information, please contact: Press Release: KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com March - April 2019


NEWS

Automatic control and mill-proven benefits for quality and profit

Technical textiles is the most quality-sensitive sector of the entire industry, and many products for specialized and performance end-uses are at the highest level of this requirement. For ultimate control and security of quality, fabric manufacturers need a top technology solution which takes the guesswork out of producing the quality their customers need. That's where the USTER® EVS automated fabric inspection systems offer enormous benefits, proven in numerous installations worldwide - and presented at upcoming Techtextil.

Automated visual fabric inspection is an essential asset in optimizing quality for a wide range of technical textiles andperformance apparel. Applications in architecture, automotive, construction, hazard protection, medicine, aviation and aerospace have some of the most stringent quality criteria.But fabrics for furnishings, sports and functional clothing must also meet the perfect standards that major brandsneed to uphold their reputation and satisfy customer expectations. All fabric producers aim to deliver the quality their customers specify, while also minimizing scrap and seconds to protect their own efficiency and profitability.The different fabric production and finishing processescontainplenty of opportunities for fabric faults to arise. USTER's automated fabric inspectionsystem bring quality under control, regardless of the complexities of the manufacturing stages. Fallible human judgmentand varying levels of operative ability and experience are no longer critical to the production of consistent, reliable quality. Accurate automatic quality control becomes an integral part of manufacturing. Early-stage control with USTER®EVS QBAReliminates the need for manual inspection after March - April 2019

production.USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION ensures reliable monitoring, using automated control during intermediate and final inspection. The system's ability to capture any visible faults - with a proven and consistently high rate of defect detection - and its optimized fabric grading protect the producer from the risk of damaging claims. Dyed fabrics present the particular extra challenge of color uniformity. USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEhas the solution, monitoringin-line shade variation in virtually any process where color is critical, without the need to cut fabric swatches for laboratory tests. Optimizing profit Automatic fabric inspection is the way to achieve optimum quality, to reduce below-par and scrap fabrics and to maximize fabric yield.The cut optimization software module of USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION and USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEoptimizes fabric yield per class, according to the settings. The system works by marking any defects in the fabric during inspection. The position of each defect is synchronized with Optimized Cut Control (OCC), which stops the cutting table at precisely the right place, guaranteeing errorfree cutting. OCC can also identify and highlight defects which require operator action, making the process more efficient.

Only one operator is needed to oversee the entire production, reviewing defects and rejecting or accepting them. The system is self-learning, reducing unnecessary alarms over time. The operator sends the fabric roll, with its defect report, to the cutting station, where faults can be marked, mended or removed as required. This saves time, as the operator has only to manage roll processing, rather than actually inspecting the fabric. Proven results USTER®EVS automatic fabric inspection technology is founded on more than 25 years of pioneering development in the field. Today, more than 1,000 installations in wide-ranging textile segments worldwide acknowledge it as the key to cost savings and enhanced market competitiveness. 467

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Technical textile producers report practical gains with USTER®EVS fabric inspection systems


NEWS USTER®EVScustomers currently inspect over 60million meters of fabric per day.Manycompanieswhich installed EVS lines in the mid-Ninetieshave recently upgraded their automatic fabric inspection systems with USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISIONand USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADE. Some users have provided valuable feedback on major benefits of the systems.A German fabric finisherreports that in the first six months after installation of USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION,it was able to produce 1.2 million meters of fabricwithout a single customer claim.Another firm, a European leader in protective clothing,purchased two systems ofUSTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION and USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEin 2017.As well as reducing claims, thecompany alsomanaged to decrease labor costs by saving 14 operators. An Italian customer installed USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION and USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHAD Ealongside automatic cutting and packaging machines, replacing manual inspection. Within three years, offquality and scrapdecreased by more than 3%.

For more details and to discuss individual requirements, interested parties are recommended to meet the experts at Techtextil. Fabric producersand finishers are welcome to present booth staff with any challenges regarding automatic fabric inspection at the forthcoming event, in Frankfurt, Germany, from May 14 to 17. The USTER®EVS Q-BAR, as well as other members of the USTER®EVS fabric inspection family, will be presented. Visit USTER at booth D05 in Hall 3.0, together with German agent Elmatex. Media contact: Edith Aepli On behalf of USTER Marketing Service Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct : +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile : +41 79 916 02 91 Fax : +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail : publicrelation@uster.com www.uster.com

Lightweight construction technology is gaining momentum - thanks to a new production line KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is getting into the market for machine technology for producing thermoplastic UD tapes

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is launching a completely new line for efficiently producing thermoplastic UD tapes, a special type of fibre-reinforced plastics (FRPs).

that they can absorb high levels of stress. Using thermoplastic rather than thermosetting matrix systems gives rise to further advantages. For example, thermoplastic UD tapes can be recycled but, above all, they can be processed more efficiently - an important requirement for mass production. The mass production of semi-finished products forms the focus of the new line for processing thermo plastic UD tapes. There is a need for reproducibility, quality and efficiency at a reasonable cost - challenges that this company, with its many years of experience in non-crimped fabrics (NCFs) made from glass and carbon fibres, has been tackling.

FRPs are important drivers in the lightweight construction sector and are contributing to the concept of sustainability in the building sector. UD tapes score points here by offering maximum potential for producing lightweight structures. They are made up of unidirectional, continuous reinforcing fibres, which means 468

More specifically, KARL MAYER Technische Textilien has extended its spreading technology to include suitable heating and impregnating modules. The result is a machine system that is setting the trend. This new development delivers a continuous mode of operating, a high production speed, and large tape widths. It represents KARL MAYER Technische Textilien's latest March - April 2019


NEWS step along the way to being a systems supplier for dry and impregnated NCFs. The first line for producing thermoplastic UD tapes will be ready to be presented in autumn of 2019 at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Chemnitz and will be available for producing samples on behalf of customers. The first public debut of the new line will be at ITMA, which is to be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 in Barcelona. The machine will also be part of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien's presentation in the forum of the next Techtextil fair in Frankfurt. The date of this event is 15 May 2019.

For more information, please contact: Press Release: KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Machine premiere at Techtextil

RACOP NW Freigestellt

KARL MAYER invites the sector to visit its Stand 3.0/ E 18 at the next Techtextil in Frankfurt/Main for an exchange of expertise. On an exhibition area of 80 m² this manufacturer will be showing warp-knitted goods with a performance that is opening up new ways for interesting and novel business fields: articles with integrated electrical conductivity and shaping from the company's new TEXTILE MAKERSPACE, a highly efficient textile solution for the protection of buildings, and a completely new generation of warp-knitted spacer fabrics. Besides, at KARL MAYER's headquarters in nearby Obertshausen, the visitors to Techtextil will have the opportunity to attend an exhibition-accompanying inMarch - April 2019

house show with a machine premiere. The new raschel machine for nonwoven bonding, RACOP 2-NW, will be presented. This efficient nonwoven machine processes fibrous webs to stitch-bonded nonwovens, and scores points by technological advantages. Unlike their chemically bonded counterparts, these nonwovens are elastic, voluminous and, thus, virtually textile. Moreover, the stitch-bonding process requires considerably less energy than thermal methods. In addition, the RACOP 2-NW impresses by an excellent price-performance ratio and highest flexibility. During KARL MAYER's in-house show, a RACOP 2-NW will produce a fabric in a gauge of E 14 intended for the application field of heating textiles. The heating effect can be tested on a demonstrator module. The preparations for the in-house show are in full swing. KARL MAYER expects numerous visitors belonging to a specific trade audience. Entire delegations from abroad have already registered. The event can be reached conveniently from Frankfurt/Main by bus transfer. Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

KARL MAYER launches new raschel machine for nonwoven bonding at an in-house show in Obertshausen to be held during the Techtextil in Frankfurt/Main, 14. - 17. 05. 2019

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NEWS

Oerlikon celebrates four world premieres at ITMA Barcelona 2019 "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a jour-ney into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber produc-tion in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment. The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Choosing the right business model

Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself 470

at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFKEvo texturing machine. 2. Finding alternatives for good personnel Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerg-ing industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how au-tomation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA. 3. Guarantee quality and traceability The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on OerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oer-likon Nonwoven equipment are right - and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site. 4. Efficient and sustainable production In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improvedglobal recycling economy. The recycling of polyester - with over 80% market share the most frequentlyused manmade fiber in the world - has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already hassolutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. March - April 2019


NEWS With the VacuFilÂŽ Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents theworld premiere No. 4 - a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach. Vision becomes reality The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises asthe world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles-

sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality. For further information: AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 70 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

Post Event Report of National Investors' Conclave on Technical Textiles (NICTT 2019) The conclave was inaugurated by the Chief Guest, Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS, Secretary Textiles, MOT with the Guest of Honor, Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, DG Life Sciences- DRDO. Shri. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chairman, Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA and Shri. PrabhuDamodaran, Convenor, ITF also graced the inaugural session. Speaking on the event, Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS, Secretary Textiles said that while the growth of technical textiles sector is spoken of enthusiastically and has been projected at 2 lakh crore by 2021. The industry and research institutes should come together to realize the sector's full potential and asked industrialists to identify prototypes developed by COEsto adapt them to the industry. He also emphasized that the Govt. has classified 207 products as technical textiles for import and export, which will be expanded based on representations from stakeholders. He pointed out that two of the ten COEs are established in Coimbatore PSG College and SITRA. Baseline surveys of the textile sector will reflect the real needs of the industry and the industry should help in the conduct of such surveys, he said. Over the past seven to eight months, he said that they had consulted various ministries in the Union govt. and State govt. and have come up with 106 textile products, for which standards already existed. "These belong to various sectors such as railways, home affairs, defence, shipping, agriculture and transport. We need to work on these with BIS, as we have the standards and have a procedure which could be made mandatory with these ministries for their tenderization process," he said. He launched the ITTA video in the presence of all the delegates which contains the new concepts and techMarch - April 2019

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The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) jointly with Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF) & The Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA) organized the First Edition of "National Investors' Conclave on Technical Textiles (NICTT 2019)" on 24th April, 2019 at The Residency Towers, Coimbatore, India. The event has been organized for the first time in Coimbatore to promote, expand & diversify new Investments in Technical Textile Industry by Entrepreneurs across the country. This was the right forum for First-time Entrepreneurs to know the evaluation of business scope, identify right products, market potential, investment quantum, etc.


NEWS nologies used in Technical Textiles for different products used in different sectors i.e. railways, defence, construction, medical, filtration, etc. According to Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, Director-General of Life Sciences, DRDO, in the Tejas light combat aircraft, the pilot's clothing and gear were developed indigenously and only 10% of it was imported. A study shows that per capita non-woven consumption in India is 0.4 kg and it is 3.0kgs in the U.S. By 2049, it is expected to be 25 kg in the U.S. and 20 kg in India. So, there is opportunity and "We can have phenomenal growth." The need is for research and development. There is scope for development of fire-retardant clothing. The raw material for it has to be imported for the clothing to be developed locally now. Another area of potential is insecticide textiles and mats. This will benefit several applications," he said. He urged the stakeholders to form a "mahagathbandhan" for the progress of the sector. Mr. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chairman, in his welcome address mentioned about the growing market opportunities of technical textile, the sunrise sector and urged textile entrepreneurs to focus on making more value added products like technical textiles.

Sundararaman K. S. signed this MoU with Mr. NobuhiroKomada- Chairman of Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre (NQEC). This relationship will benefit ITTA Member companies to develop & promote technical textiles in Japan. Technical SessionsEminent Speakers were from various Govt. R&D organizations, COEs, DRDO & Technical textile Industry and also includes international speakers from Nissenken, Japan &Messe Frankfurt who shared their rich experience and provide practical views on desirable projects, their market potential and how to actually launch such ventures. This direct attempt is one of a kind in the country. The Second Technical Session was chaired by Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman ITTA. The following presentations were made during this session. This session witnessed the excellent presentations by the speakers from India and abroad. They include Mrs. T. Rajeswari, Additional Secretary, Ministry of Water Resources, Delhi, Mr. DevakantaPahad Singh, Director PM & SQR (LS), DRDO and Mr. Ken Ando & Ms. Alexia Whitfield, Nissenken, Tokyo Lab, Japan.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA briefed about the theme of the conclave to the gathering. He said, "In the previously done programs we have connected with the people who are already in the area. We wish to connect with those who are volunteering to invest in Technical Textiles. We want to see more new entrepreneurs coming into the field of Technical Textiles. The Indian Supply base has to grow tenfold to make some meaningful impact in the international arena". Mr. PrabhuDamodaran, Convenor ITF said, "Our region is dynamic and the entrepreneurs here have been at the forefront of many new approaches and business opportunities. I am confident that this program will go a long way in motivating South Indian firms to venture into Technical Textiles. Being an event with a practical approach, entrepreneurs get first-hand information about the industry and its potential." ITTA signed Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with NISSENKEN, JAPAN to promote Technical Textiles in India. During the event, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) has forged Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with Nissenken, Japan to promote Technical Textiles in India and Japan. The Chairman ITTA - Dr. 472

Mrs. T. Rajeswari spoke about the "Usage of Technical Textiles in different depts. in Ministry of Water Resources". She highlighted that technical textiles have provided innovative engineering solutions for several applications in civil and geotechnical engineering, for water infrastructure water resources projects. The technical textile products which are used in water resources works are geobags, geotubes, geomembranes and geo-containers. She also announced that Ministry of Water Resources (MoWR), Govt. of India is organizing the One day Seminar on "Use of Technical Textiles in Water Resources Works" on 29th April 2019 at R. K. Puram, New Delhi. ITTA is supporting the event. March - April 2019


NEWS

He emphasized that DRDO & ACADEMIA can collaborate on CARS (Contract for Acquisition of Research Services), ER (Extramural Research), Research Boards and DRDO Centers located in Universitiesand DRDO & INDUSTRY can collaborate on Contracted Development, Joint development, Trial supply order and Technology Transfer (ToT). "Japanese Innovations in Functional Textiles & Corresponding Opportunities in India and Japan" was presented by Mr. Ken Ando & Ms. Alexia Whitfield.He talked about the Nissenken Quality Evaluation Center, Japan and its works in the field of Technical Textiles. The various Functionality Finishes are UV cutfinishes, Water-repellent finishes, Water-absorbing quick drying finishes, Thermal barrier finishes, Soil resistance finishes, Anti-Virus finishes, Retro reflective Material, AntiMosquito finishes, Anti-allergen finishes and Cool feeling finishes. He explained about the different opportunities where India and Japan can work together mainly to promote technical textiles. The Third Technical Session was chaired by Mr. Durai Palanisami, Director, Pallavva Group, Board Member-ITF and three papers were presented. This session includes the presentations from Dr. Padma Vankar, Research Advisor, BTRA, Mr. Naman Barot, Scientific Officer, ATIRA and Mr. Rajeev Kumar Saxena, Sr. Technology Manager (Weaving), Lohia Corp. Ltd. "Polymeric pressure sensor for smart textiles & Nanofiber application to improve anti-clogging property March - April 2019

of Geotextiles" was presented by Dr. Padma Vankar. a)

She explained about the development of Polymeric Piezo-electric Sensor for Smart Wearable Textile. A piezoelectric sensor usespiezoelectric effect to measure pressure, acceleration, temperature & strain wherein there are 2 types of piezoelectric effect i.e. direct piezoelectric effectconverts mechanical energy to electrical energy (generator & sensor effect) & indirect piezoelectric effect- converts electrical energy to mechanical energy (Actuator effect). Piezoelectric Materials are Ceramic base (ZnO, PZT, and BZT) and Polymer base (PA6,PVC, PVDF, PVDF-trFE). She suggested following points - 16% increase in crystallinityby addition of ZnO nanowires, 30% increase in crystallinity compared to control PVDF, 22% increase in voltage compared to control PVDF, Change in signal possible by minimum pressure, Product can be woven or knitted directly with the other filaments, Little cost addition to the existing product and Scalability is very easy, no need of any additional process.

b)

She talked about the Nanofiber coated prefabricated vertical drainage (PVD) membrane with improved anti-clogging property. She explained about advantages of Nanofiber Media over Microfiber, features of Nanofiber, Nanofiber Spinning Process, Electro-spinning of PA6, Cross Section of The Product, Soil Particle Size before & after Filtration Using Microfiber Membrane, etc. She concluded with the following points- Fibre diameter could be reduced to get pore size less than soil particle size, Water permeability was found more for long duration in nanofiber media compared to existing media in presence of soil, Cross section of the exposed nanofiber loaded sample found clean and Nanofiber deposited media will help to reduce the consolidation time significantly.

Mr. Naman Barot presented the topic on "Antibacterial & pollution face mask & Portable water filter bottle". a) He said that India pollution mask market is projected to grow at more than 18% by 2023 across the urban areas. He pointed out that ATIRA procured a Nanospider Electrospinning Pilot Plant from Elmarco, Czech Republic and Nanofiber Production Pilot Plant Set up consists of Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine, Acid Fumes Scrubber, Electrospinning Pilot Plant, Polymer Station, Dehumidifier and Facemask Converting Automatic 473

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Mr. Devakanta Pahad Singh presented the topic on "Technical Textiles for the Armed Forces". He spoke about the DRDO Technology Spectrum such as Armament & Combat Engineering, Missiles & Strategic Systems, Aeronautical Systems, Electronics & Communication Systems, Microelectronics & Computational Systems, Naval & Material Systems and Life Sciences.Life Sciences department research on CBRN Defence, Life Support, Operation support and Civil Military Interface. The requirements of technical textiles in defence are Physical requirements- light weight, low bulk, anti-static, etc., Environmental requirementwater repellent/proof, UV resistant, etc., Camouflage, Concealment and Deception- Visual spectrum, Ultraviolet, etc.,Flame, Heat and Flash Protection- Flame retardance, Heat resistant, etc., Battlefield HazardsChemical and Bio agents, Nuclear radiation, etc. and Economic Considerations- Minimal maintenance, Long Storage life, etc.


NEWS Machine. Flow Chart Of Production Plan -Nano fiber Pilot Plant (Nano Fiber Coated Media), Ultrasonic Stitching (Facemask production) and Packaging (Ready for Use). He explained in detail about the Testing of facemask media, property, Material consumption, Cost of Facemask Media, Cost of project-Capex and Major Key player in India for Facemask Market. b)

He pointed out that the Development of nanofibers based filter media which gives water completely free from muddy particles and micro-organisms and to make and deliver a simpleportable filtration device are the objective of the paper. The nanofibers based filtration membrane device is prepared by perforated tube, coated fabric wrapping on tube, fitration candle and filtration device with filter candle.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Its characterizations are UV-Visible (UV-Vis), X-ray Powder diffractometer (XRD), Field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM), Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDS), Microbial assay of filtered water performed by pour plate method, PALAS2010 and Turbidity meter. He mentioned the Cost of Water Filtration Bottle, Water Filter Bottle in Market (Using Conventional Microfiber Filtration Method), Material consumption and Cost of project Capex. Mr. Rajeev Kumar Saxena presented the topic on "Opportunities for weaving Geo-textile fabrics on Circular loom". He said that Synthetic geotextile is the fastestgrowing material type segment of the geotextile market. Polypropylene is the major material in demand, he claimed. Polypropylene woven Geotextileis in increasing demand in the Construction Industry and for safe & long lasting road construction. Asia-Pacific region represented the largest market for global geotextile market. The market for geotextiles in this region is mainly driven by the ongoing developments in construction industry. He also talked about the different products such as Geotextile Filter Fabric, PP Ground cover woven fabric, Weed control mats,on roof garden & terrace as drain & filterand HDPE Pond Liners. He explained about the development of bigger Circular looms (to produce max. flat fabric up to approx. 6.0m width) of high performance & quality and its advantages. The Fourth Technical Session was chaired by Mr. Prabhu Damodaran, Convenor, ITF. The following presentations were made during this session. 474

This session has presentations by the speakers from India and abroad. They include Mr. Hemant Dantkale, Partner, DN associates, Mr. P. K. Choudhury, Principal Technologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata and Ms. Jesica John, Manager -Techtextil India, Messe Frankfurt India Ltd. Mr. Hemant Dantkale presented on "Airlay nonwoven products for automotive and building insulation".He spoke about the Recycling and Nonwovens Eco-friendly solutions for the Automotive Industry. He explained in detail about the industrial textile waste, hard waster ecycling, post consumer waster ecycling and its nonw oven quality. Different nonwovens solutions for Automotive are blending lines for fibers and polymers, Airlay Flexiloft, Airlay Flexiloft +, Airfelt with Resin Felt Option and Airfelt. Above solutions are used for different applications in automotive sector. "Various types of Jute Geotextile (JGT) like woven, nonwoven, open weave" was presented by Mr. P. K. Choudhury. He highlighted global demand of technical textiles by application wherein TT represents about 31% of the total Textile Production. It is forecasted that in 2022 the market demand will be 35.5 million ton with CAGR of 3.7 %. He talked about the Jute Geotextiles (JGT) viz. woven, nonwoven, open weave etc. used in various civil engineering applications with success, machineries used to manufactures, its advantages. There are many Union States who have used JGT with success in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, etc.Some of the case studieswhere JGT are used: - Kakinada PortAndhra Pradesh, Andulia-Boyratala Road- West Bengal, Agartala-Mohanpur-Chebri Road at Tripura, etc. He discussed about different application of JGT i.e. Slope Management, Protection of River Banks, Strengthening of Road Sub- Grade, Stability of Embankment, Prevention of Railway Track Subsidence and Consolidation of Soft Soil. Ms. Jesica Johntalked about the "Overview of the Techtextil-2019 on Technical Textiles".She spoke about the overview of the Messe Frankfurt - Techtextil event worldwide. She also said Messe Frankfurt is organizing the Techtextil India 2019 on 20th - 22nd November 2019 in Mumbai focusing on the composites with different technical textile segments.Exclusive programs of the event is direct buyer seller meeting, Product gallery zone, knowledge forum and direct market update. She also mentioned that ITTA is supporting the event. March - April 2019


NEWS The Fifth Technical Session was chaired by Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA and three papers were presented. This session includes presentations from Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, SITRA, Dr. Kuldip Kumar Sharma, Mentor, VFPL MEDEVICE and Mr. Andy Thayumanavan, GM, Reliance Inds. Ltd., Chennai. "Medical Textiles- Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nanofinish surgical gown fabric, Barbed suture"was presented by Dr. Prakash Vasudevan. He delivered lot of information on the products of Medical Textiles, new opportunities available for entrepreneurs. Challenges involved in the production of Medical textiles, Market Statistics to identify the scope for new ventures. He revealed in detail about the facilities and assistance provided by SITRA for entrepreneurs' development in Medical Textiles. He presented high potential medical textile areas of - Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nanofinish surgical gown fabric andBarbed suture.

perform daily activities, early hospital discharge, pouch is flexible to accommodate the growth & weight of baby as it grows, etc. Other Innovations such as mattress protectors, soft and cozy baby care sheets, etc. Mr. Andy Thayumanavan presented the topic on "Polypropylene Nonwovens for Hygiene & Meditech". He pointed out the applications of nonwoven fabric and different fibres used in Nonwoven where PP is the major Nonwoven fibre used globally. In India, major synthetic raw materials are Polypropylene (PP) - 58% & Polyester - 42%.He discussed in brief about the emerging application areas of PP Nonwoven i.e. Hygiene, Medical, Agrotextiles& Geotextiles, different nonwoven manufacturing processes and also said that Spunlaid technology to Gain Maximum Traction in the Near Future. The following conclusions and recommendations are suggested to use Nonwovens in Hygiene & Medical areas- Low Consumption, technology trends, Growing Economy, Rising Disposable Income, Govt. Initiatives/Awareness, Light Weight, Soft and Comfortable, Offers Safety Patient, Better Hygiene, Easy to Use and Dispose and no washing.

Dr. Kuldip Kumar Sharma spoke on "Innovation Meditech Products- Transfer Device & MAMMA POD". He highlighted that Innovations/patented devices developed Indigenously through the efforts of Government, Healthcare sector and research institutions under make-in India and start-up India initiatives of Govt. of India. Hospital acquired infections (HAIs) are a major cause of mortality and morbidity. Hospital acquired infections (HAIs) is a major safety concern for both health care providers and the patients.

You may see that in this panel discussions were a combination of experts who are already in the technical textile industry and others are from outside the technical textile industry. Mr. Kapoor and Mr. Kudav shared their valuable experience of more than 10-15 years' journey of entering the industry. Mr. Gopinath Bala who has recently entered into the technical textile manufacturing also shares his success story. On the other hand Mr. Jhajharia who is in cotton textiles now, is also of the opinion that conventional textile business houses can enter this field.

VPFL has developed Medical Devices/ Innovations such as Patient Transfer Device (PTD) (Transfer life) and Kangaroo Mother Care (Mamma Pod). The features of PTD are infection free, spill proof, no maintenance, no insertion and Nontoxic & Kangaroo Mother Care (Mamma Pod) are maintain warmth, safety & support early breast feeding for LBW, hands free mode to

The conclave received over whelming response and attended by more than 200 delegates from the technical textile Industry, potential new Investors, Manufacturers who want to diversify, Start-Ups and Agents/ Dealers/ Distributors of Technical Textiles.

March - April 2019

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The Panel discussion was on "Perspectives of entering Technical Textile Industry- from Inside and Outside" Mr. Amit Agarwal, Vice Chairman, ITTA was a Moderator and the experts Mr. Manoj Kumar Jhajharia, JMD, Salona Cotspin Ltd, Board Member-ITF, Mr. Mahesh Kudav, MD, Venus Safety, Director-ITTA, Mr. Pankaj Kapoor, MD, Park Nonwoven Pvt. Ltd., Director-ITTA and Mr. GopinathBala, CEO-SVS-SAF, Board Member-ITF were the panelists.


NEWS

Rabatex Lines-Up Innovative Weaving Preparatory Technologies at ITMA 2019 ◆ ◆ ◆

High speed Sample Warping Machine suitable for yarn range between 5 to 500 Tex Sectional Warping Machine has user friendly advance software & data management Single End Sizing Machine offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations

India based and innovation driven company, Rabatex Industries has lined-up the latest and innovative weaving preparatory technologies including battery operated material handling equipment in a 72 square metre stall at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in Hall no. 4, Booth no. D215. The technologies on display include an Automatic Sample Warper, Single End Sizing Machine, Advanced Sectional Warper, Battery Operated Material Handling Equipment and also an Ultrasonic Reed Cleaning Machine. The Rabatex high speed Automatic Sample Warping Machine model RI 6001 is primarily for production of samples and short production warp at very high production rate. The RI 6001 has a robustly constructed warping drum, suitable up to widths of 2400 mm and for warping lengths between 21 and 450 metres (depending on thread density) and suitable for yarn range from 5 to 500 Tex.The RI 6001 comes with a heavy duty rotational creel with a maximum creel capacity of 16 colours and is suitable of attaining maximum speeds of up to 1,200 metres per minutes.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Rabatex Sectional Warping Machine RI 112 is a state-of-the-art technology which produces high quality warp beams with higher productivity. The RI 112 comes with user friendly advance software and data management, which offers all online data of warping operations. It also offers graphical display of all events and breakages and also loss end memory control.

Single End Sizing

The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing Machine RI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations 476

and produces sized yarn of the highest quality to ensure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations. The RI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of 10's to 120's Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30 to 210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electric heater drying system. The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing Machine RI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations and produces sized yarn of the highest quality to ensure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations. The RI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of 10's to 120's Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30 to 210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electric heater drying system.Rabatex operates four fully functioning manufacturing units, dedicated to producing state-ofthe-art machineries and technologies. Another plant covering an area of 50,000 square metres is under construction, which would be devoted for manufacturing material handling and storage equipment. "All our technologies, including those on display at our ITMA 2019 stall are very robust and so require very less maintenance. We have developed these technologies through our in-house R&D team and go through rigorous tests before being launched in the market," MrHaresh Panchal, Managing Director of Rabatex Industries said. "We have grown in double digits in the last few years, thanks to the continuous launching of new technologies and also due to the excellent after sales service support,which we provide to our customers," Mr. Panchal added. For more information please visit http:// www.rabatex.com Media Contacts: MsShimaDhiraj Rabatex Industries India Tel: +91 79 2290 1367/68/69/70 Email: sales@rabatex.com Media Contacts: MsShimaDhiraj Rabatex Industries India Tel: +91 79 2290 1367/68/69/70 Email: sales@rabatex.com March - April 2019


NEWS

Sintex goes with A.T.E. for the green field project in textile processing Sintex Industries Ltd., a well-known textile group in Gujarat, India, has recently set-up a Greenfield processing project for processing cotton and linen, both in yarn and fibre, with a capacity of 30 tons/day at in Amreli district.The project is currently under execution.

tive technology solutions and world class after sales services. This project includes machines supplied by some of A.T.E.'s principals, namely Fong's, China, Stalam, Italy and Color Service, Italy. Fong's, the market leader in package dyeing machines, has supplied 47 bulk production machines and 15 lab scale package dyeing machines. Stalam, well known for its RF driers, has supplied 7 machines for drying yarn and fibre. The project also includes a fully automatic dyes and chemicals dispensing solution from Color Service, Italy, a world leader in the field of dispensing systems.

STALAM RF DRIER

Sintex has entrusted a significant responsibility to A.T.E. for this new project. A.T.E. is a single window solution provider for all textile processing machinery needs in India, and has unparalleled domain expertise in the field. A.T.E. represents some of the world leaders in the processing equipment segment and offers innova-

This is one of the largest package dyeing projects executed by A.T.E. The project is now under commissioning and the initial trials have shown encouraging results, with the commercial production set to commence soon. . A.T.E. and Sintex have decade's long business relationship. A.T.E. recently worked with Sintex in executing several huge spinning projects, and this new yarn dyeing project is set to be the next milestone in A.T.E.'s long association with the Sintex group.

World Traders Mfg. Co.is the exclusive agent of foreign principal M/s. Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. Germany, since more than 40 years and on their behalf it is informed that Textechno is participating in Techtextil Fair from 14th May to 17th May, 2019 at Frankfurt am Main, showcasing Textechno Testing equipment for technical fibers and yarns.

strument: linear density, tensile properties, mechanical crimp properties (crimp percent, removal force and stability) geometrical crimp structure, fiber to metal friction and bending stiffness. The sample feed unit Autofeed reduces labor for preparation of the test specimen and introduction into the test field to a minimum.

The experts of quality control systems Textechno Herbert Stein Gmbh& Co. KG, Monchengladback/ Germany, will showcase its latest testing for industrial fibers, yarns and composites at the Techtextil.

The fimatestsystem, which measures the fibermatrix adhesion by means of a single-fiber pull-out will also be on show. The system consists of the Fimabond embedding station and a clamping accessory to the Favimat+.

The Favimt+ Auto feed, a fully automatic single-fiber testing system, combines 6 different testing methods to determine the following fiber properties in a single inMarch - April 2019

A further highlight is the automatic linear density and tensile tester for high tenacity yarns Statimat 4U. This 477

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Textechno participating in Techtextil Germany Fair


NEWS instrument is especially developed for very coarse and high tenacity yarns with a force measuring range upto 5,000N. Therefore, Statimat 4U is suitable to test even materials with the highest tenacity, such as Aramid, and high tenacity polythelene (UHMWPE) Yarns. Other products for testing industrial fibers, yarns and composites are: Dynafil M+ Dynamic shrinkage tester of all kinds of yarns Drapetest Automatic drapability tester for standard and non-crimped fabrics.

Rovingtest Automatic test system for the processing properties of rovings. For more information, please contact: Pradeep Gupta World Traders Mfg. Co. 1413, Maker Chamber V, 221, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021 India Tel: +91-22-22872935/22843423 Fax: +91-22-22872534 E-mail: info@wtmcindia.com

SVITT performed various activities INDUSTRIAL VISIT REPORT SURENDRA Textile:

SVITT SVVV organized Mill Visit forB.TechTextile Technology of 2nd year studentsat M/SSurendra Textiles,Indore.Total 32 students and twofaculty member Prof.Yogita Agrawal and Prof.ShyamBarhanpurkar hadvisited the company on 15.4.2019.

On 5th March 2019 Third Year B.Tech Students of Textile Engineering, SVITT, SVVV Indore had visited Maral Overseas a premium Textile Industry for hand to hand experience. They have introduced with the total dyed knitted fabric production line from blow room to dye house. The total visit has incorporated spinning, knitting, chemical processing, conditioning of yarn, knitting and dyeing (fabric and lea). From SVITT, SVVV, Prof. SushantaNaik and Dr. ShamayitaPatra and Mr. K.K.Nair, HR Manager from Maral Overseas had led the industrial visit. SWASTIK GARMENTS (EMBROIDERY UNIT):

During that visit, Mr. Mishra,In charge,Surendra Textiles explained the students about the working motion of weaving machine and automatic looms. Maral Overseas Limited: Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, SVVV Indore has organized one day industrial mill visit atSwastik Garments (embroidery unit) for 1st year B.Sc. Fashion Design students on 02nd March, 2019. In that visit, students accompanied with Dr.Shamayita Patra and Mr. Rajkumar Sharma. During this visit, Mr. Bharat More,Unit In charge, explained the students about the working of embroidery machines and laser cutting machine.

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NEWS

UnitechTexmech to display high quality spinning rings at ITMA 2019 India based UnitechTexmech Pvt. Ltd, the market leaders in spinning rings since 1976, will be showcasing their latest range of high quality spinning rings at ITMA 2019 in Hall No. 7, Stall no. C119. Unitech rings are finely designed products designed to spin yarn from any kind of fibres like cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool, flex, blends, etc.

The UNIULTIMARing is a product with a unique surface coating, especially suitable for machines running at very high speeds, elite and compact spinning systems. Here too, the very best quality 100Cr6steel is used and additionally a very hard and thin microfilm of atomic coating is given, to ensure superior gliding and wear resisting properties at high speeds.

UnitechTexmech offers a wide range of rings to cater to the varied needs of the industry and offer a lifetime of 3-8 years depending upon count, speed, fibre characteristics and under normal working conditions. These rings include the UNIK1, UNIUltima, UNI QC, UNISX, Steel Conical & Vertical Rings, ISQ Conical & Vertical Rings and Stainless Steel Rings.

Unitechhas also launched an advanced version of normal conical and vertical rings calledISQ Series Conical & Vertical Rings. TheISQ Series rings are made from a special type of alloy steel and have a fine grain micro structure matrix for even and uniform friction properties. TheISQ Series Conical & Vertical Rings are subjected to a high technology process to enhance the wear resistance and for smooth gliding movement of the traveler, resulting in consistent quality of yarn, very important in production of high value wool yarn.

It undergoes a specialised surface treatment, which gives the ring high fatigue strength for consistent performance from the time the ring is placed on the ring frame. The UNIK1 ring is ideal for spinning fine and super fine counts, compact yarns, dyed yarns as well as yarns made from highly abrasive fibres such as Acrylic, Polypropylene, Kevlar, Linen, Bamboo, Polyester, Melange, Modal, etc. On the other hand, the UNI QC Ring is an economically priced product with salient features of coated rings. Special hardening process using the latest thermo 'SHOCK' treatment, imparts a micro diffusion effect to the ring for best wear resistance and absolute surface and matrix properties. The UNI QCRing is produced from 100Cr6 steel. The ring is suitable for spinning yarns from all types of fibres and is a true value for money black ring. March - April 2019

UnitechTexmechhas been exporting its technologies to several countries since 1985, which include UK, Italy, Germany, USA, Hong Kong, Turkey, Mexico, Thailand, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Japan, Taiwan, Argentina, Peru, Vietnam, Malaysia, South Africa and many more countries. For more details please contact: Media Contacts MsVrundaBapat Director UnitechTexmechPvt Ltd India Tel: +91 20 2712 0379 / 2712 7674 Email: sales@unitechtexmech.com Website: https://www.unitechtexmech.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications India Tel: +91 982 503 8518 / 915 753 9518 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The UNIK1 ring has excellent wear resistant properties and is tougher than coated rings.

These conical rings are manufactured in all sizes and of all heights like 6.4mm, 9.1mm, 11.1mm, 17.4mm, and 25.4mm, while the vertical rings range from 6.4mm to 50.8mm in height.

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TEXCON 2019 successfully organised by SVITT 2nd National Conference Texcon-2019organisedon 4th and 5th April, 2019 with a theme of 'Textile Industry and Research in 2030: Challenges and Opportunities' organised by Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology of SVVV Universityat SVVV Campus with a support of DRDO. The conference was having oral as well as poster presentation.

The program inaugurated on 4th April, 2019 at 10.30 am by the Chief Guest Shri S.K. Chaudhary, Chairman of Pratibha Syntex Limited and Guests of Honour Shri S. Pal, Director (Bhopal Operation) of Vardhman Textiles and Shri Harish Chatterjee, Vice President Manufacturing of Raymond India Limited. Honorable Chancellor, Vice Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Following speakers were invited. Sr. Name No.

Designation

Department

1

Dr.V. K. Kothari

Former Professor

Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi

2

Dr.KushalSen

Professor

Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi

3

Dr. NoopurAnand

Professor

National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi

4

Dr. A. Mukhopadhyay

Professor

Department of Textile Technology, NIT Jalandhar, Punjab

5

Dr. M. D. Teli

Professor

Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

6

Dr. Pravir Chaudhary

Professor

Visva-Bharati University, Bolpur, West Bengal

7

Dr. J. Srinivasan

Professor

Department of Textile Technology, KCT Coimbatore, Tamilnadu

8

Dr. S. Dhamija

Professor

TIT&S, Bhiwani

9

Dr. Srinivasa K. Rao

President

NEB LLC, Floral Park , New York, USA

10

Dr. NeeleshKanoongo

Director

Uttar Techno Consultancy, Mumbai

11

Mr. Yogesh Garg

Director

DILO India Private Limited, Gurugram,

12

Mr. Baddrudin Khan

Manager PMD

Multi-Commodity Exchange of India Limited, Mumbai

13

Mr. Naveen Kachawwa

Head, Sales, North India - II,

Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Chandigarh

480

Haryana

March - April 2019


NEWS Vishwavidyalaya, Honorary Secretary of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Trust graced the occasion with their presence. Other dignitaries from academic institutes, industry and professional bodies of textile fraternity were also present on this occasion. The book of papers was released by the dignitaries on dice. Chief Guest Shri S. K. Chaudhary was felicitated by the Honorable Chancellor of SVVV for his contribution to textile industry. In two days 28 papers were presented in 5 plenary and 2 technical sessions. Beside this, conference was also graced by the presence of eminent dignitaries from Textile Association of India, MP Unit, MP Textile Mill Association and Regional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore. 15 students participated in the poster presentation. The day 1 was ended with a conference dinner sponsored by TAI MP Unit held at Indore Tennis Club, Indore on 4th April, 2019 evening. Vice Chancellor of DAVV University, Chancellor and Vice Chancellor of SVVV University, Delegates of TEXCON 2019, Members from industry and TAI Managing Committee Members were present the occasion. The conference was supported by DRDO, MCX India and TAI MP Unit. The news of conference was also covered by all the leading newspapers with pre and post press release.

Valedictory session was conducted on 5th April 2019 at 4.00 pm with the presence of Chief Guest Shri D. K. Mittal, President Maral Overseas Limited, Dhamnod, Guest of Honour Mr. Pranav Parashar, Officer Incharge, Regional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore, Honorable Vice Chancellor of SVVV and other dignitaries from SVITT. Summary report of the conference was presented by Chairman of the conference TEXCON-2019 followed by speech of Vice Chancellor SVVV, Guest of Honour and then Chief Guest. The brochure of next conference of TEXCON-2020 was also released with conference theme of "Contemporary Issues in Textile Manufacturing Process from Fiber to Garment", which will be held on 5th & 6th March, 2020. Vote of thanks was proposed by Conference Secretary. The program was ended with National anthem and followed by High Tea.

A.T.E. launches Automation division for textile mills

As a direct response to customers' requests that A.T.E. help them improve the performance of their installed machines, A.T.E. has launched an Automation division under its TEG (Textile Engineering Group) business unit. March - April 2019

A.T.E., endowed with deep domain knowledge in textile engineering and textile processes, has built-up a team of experts to undertake automation and upgrade projects. Machines are upgraded using modern retrofits and the latest software, resulting in significant improvement in the performance of these machines, both in terms of productivity and quality. A.T.E. can undertake machine upgrade/automation of the following range of textile machines: ◆ Weaving preparatory: Sizing and warping machines ◆ Processing: Stenter/merceriser/dyeing ranges/pad dry/pad steam, etc. ◆ Denim: Denim processing lines ◆ Synthetics: POY/FDY winders, extruders, PSF lines, bale press, chip conveying and drying Apart from custom machine upgrade/automation, the Automation division has also in its portfolio some 481

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Textile mills continuously seek to automate their processes and upgrade their machine and process controls so as to produce with better quality and lower costs. In some cases, they accomplish their goals through the purchase of new equipment, or through machinery overhauls with new parts. In other cases, the path to improvement requires a tailor-made approach - as the mills have machines that are in generally good mechanical condition, but need new kinds of control, or add-on systems for automation. Such customised projects in textile mills require to be executed by reliable partners with in-depth textile knowledge.


NEWS productised solutions, such as a fancy yarn system Fancy Spin - to add value to yarn, which would help mills realise higher value for their yarn. Another such productised system is the pre-reduced indigo dosing systems for denim manufacturing (bulk as well as portable). These dosing systems help in maintaining consistent quality without any shade variation along millions of meters of denim produced and

also help in reducing the load on the wastewater treatment plant. "We have a team of experts with long experience in executing such projects smoothly. Customers can count on us for excellent support at all times of the project execution, and also post execution", said Mr.Vikas Banduke, Vice President - Automation, who is responsible for this new business at A.T.E.

500th MAGNOROLL Delivered From 1 to 500 - ZIMMER AUSTRIAis celebrating the benchmark of delivering its 500th MAGNOROLL coating machine. The sky is the limit. Another milestonehas been achieved in the firmhistory by successfully shipping its 500th MAGNOROLL coating machine. "A milestone indeed and honor for usas well", says Bruce Stalker rom Eclipse Blinds, excited to receive the machine in Scotland (www.eclipseblinds.co.uk).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Precision, quality and reliability - manyaspects changed since the inventionof the first MAGNOROLL, but this coating machine made its name as industry bench mark due to its constant characteristics of highest quality and out standing precision for reliable firstclass results. This success is based onthe effort of our dedicated work force who managed to continuously improve and innovate. Nowadays, the MAGNOROLL coatingmachine is equipped with state-ofthe-art operating software thatis lovedby our customers. The machine comes in a unique modular design execution that combines various coating techniques (knife, screen, slot ormagnet roll coating) within just onemachine. This minimizes machine down times and ensures quick adaptation to specific requirements. Join the success road- with MAGNOROLL 482

Join the success road - and ensure your competitive advantage by stocking up your production park with a MAGNOROLL multipurpose coating machine. From one-color printing to coating with paste or foams (instable, meta-stable, and stable).Various coating modules such as knife, screen, slot or magnet roll coating can be changed by afew simple steps. With ZIMMER you can make the difference. 3 SUCCESS PILLARS FOR SUSTAINABLE ADDED VALUE HIGHEST PRECISION, EVEN ON LARGE WORKING WIDTHS Concentricity accuracy and precision is crucial for quality results, especially when applying coatings on large workingwidths. The world-famous ZIMMER MAGNET SYSTEM PLUS with up to 3 magnet bars, guarantees a 100% uniform applicationfor any coating, laminating and lacquering. ZIMMER AUSTRIA coating systems ensure the needed accuracy andprecision for applying coatings also on working widths larger than 5 meters.

FROM IDEA TO INNOVATION - OWN APPLICATION CENTRE Accelerating our client's success is at the heart of our DNA. Therefore, ZIMMER AUSTRIA provides the March - April 2019


NEWS opportunity to runtrials or even small-scale productions at our Technology.Application Centre in Klagenfurt. Depending on the individualrequirements we offer a variety of standard and special coating techniques to be tested together with our expert technologists,such as knife coating combined with screen printing. QUALITY ALWAYS - THROUGH DECADES OF EXPERIENCE Outstanding coating results require attention to every

detail and the highest quality in every step of the process. ZIMMERAUSTRIA has decades of experience in the manufacturing of coating systems, where we achieved many breakthrough innovationsthat our customers benefit from. We believe that quality makes the difference. Therefore, we offer tailor-madecoating systems, manufactured with highest quality materials (stainless steel, chromed steel, etc.), equipped with stateof-the-art operating software to bring our customers the highest level of quality.

A new player for warp preparation machines in India KARL MAYER, RABATEXINDUSTRIES and A.T.E. set up a joint venture, 29.03.2019 On 29 March 2019 KARL MAYER, RABATEX INDUSTRIES and A.T.E. signed a contract for setting up a joint venture. The legally independent company is called KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India Private Limited, has its registered office in Mumbai and production facility in Ahmedabad.

ganization, and with our proven way to produce in our main markets, we want to continue to make a contribution to the long-term success of our customers. We are really proud of setting up this joint venture. By pooling our strengths, we will be able to even better support our customers, being close to them in the local market", explains Arno Gärtner, CEO of KARL MAYER.

L to R:AnujBhagwati, Managing Director of A.T.E., Arno Gärtner, CEO of KARL MAYER, and Haresh Panchal, Managing Partner of RABATEX INDUSTRIES,

KARL MAYER is the majority shareholder and takes responsibility for the management of the new company.KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India Private Limited will focus mainly on the manufacturing and sale of warp preparation machines and creels mainly for Indian market, as well as service and spare parts sale for warp preparation and warp knitting machines. By means of the newly founded entity, the joint venture partners aim to enhance their position and distribution in the Indian market. Moreover, it is intended to make good use of the existing competencies and synergies, especially in terms of purchasing and customer service. "With the further development of our international orMarch - April 2019

A.T.E. enriches the group due to its proximity to the market and its strength in customer support. The company has already been KARL MAYER's distribution partner for many years."We are honoured to deepen our relationship with KARL MAYER and start a new relationship with RABATEX INDUSTRIESwith this new joint venture. We thank our many customers that have encouraged us to take this step with their continuous support. We are confident we will be able to serve them better" says Anuj Bhagwati, Managing Director of A.T.E. Dr. Pawan Kumar Singh, Managing Director of KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India Private Limited underlines this statement: "We are striving for market leadership in India and supporting the 'MAKE IN INDIA' initiative of the Government of India. By combining our know-how and our resources in the field of 483

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

"The special contribution of KARL MAYER and RABATEX INDUSTRIES to the joint venture will be production know-how and manufacturing capabilities in the sector of warp preparation machines. Both companies are important players in the warp preparation industry", says Roland Kohn, President of the Business UnitWarp Preparation of the KARL MAYER Group. KARL MAYER is recognized as a leading and innovative machine manufacturer in the world market in all the areas it is active in.


NEWS warp preparation machines, we can provide solutions to our customers with exactly those things which they require for their competitiveness, from production to customer service and support". RABATEX INDUSTRIESalso relies on the synergies of the new relationship. "RABATEX INDUSTRIES is excited about this association with KARL MAYER, a technology leader in warp preparation machine industry and A.T.E., India's leading customer focused textile

machinery marketer. Our respective strengths will help us in providing advanced technology machinery backed by professional aftersales service to the Indian textile industry", said Haresh Panchal, Managing Partner ofRABATEX INDUSTRIES. Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH BrĂźhlstraĂ&#x;e 25 63179 Obertshausen

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E. and LUWA mark a decade of working together In 2009, A.T.E., a leader in textile engineering, joined hands with LUWA, a global leader in industrial air engineering, to provide humidification solutions to the spinning and weaving sectors in India. A.T.E. and LUWA are backed by eight decades of experience in their respective fields, and LUWA has also been a solution provider to the Indian textile industry for over 25 years.

conditioning, filtration & waste handling requirements. LUWA offers complete and comprehensive services ranging from consultancy covering conception to manufacturing, installation, maintenance, and warranty services. LUWA is a trusted name for it's over 1,000 customers in India.

A.T.E. - LUWA Team in 2009

LUWA built its reputation in India with the spinning sector. However, apart from spinning, LUWA also has a huge presence in the weaving sector. One of its most popular offerings is the LoomSphere. The LoomSphere system has been developed to reduce energy consumption by means of direct air introduction focused on the production area where high humidity is required at the warp. The main advantage of the LUWA solution is the laminar flow air direct displacement air outlet. The LUWA air outlet placed on top of the loom provides laminar low speed airflow to the warp by means of a filter mat placed inside the outlet. The laminar flow assures a steady airflow without turbulence that causes induction of air mixed with low humidity ambient air. If instead, a high-speed air outlet is used, the humidity at the warp becomes neither controllable nor stable, which would adversely affect the quality and steadiness of the fabric.

Mr Aras and Mr Abrell in 2009

LUWA stands for well-engineered, innovative systems, plants, and solutions for textile and other industries, always conforming to Swiss standards. In textile air engineering, they offer solutions for humidification, air484

Over the years, LUWA became the first time introducer of many new types of equipment, which subsequently set the standard as the optimum way to run a mill. For example, prefabricated air handling units in India have become very popular, which LUWA had introduced more than 20 years ago. LUWA is well known for its maintenance friendly rotary air filter with the suction nozzles mounted outside the filter drum; and for high-speed air washers made of non-corrosive material, with reliable high efficiency direct driven axial flow fans.

March - April 2019


NEWS Mr P.K Singh, President, Luwa India says "With A.T.E., we found the right partner, which complimented our line of business. Our customers are our strength and we found similar philosophy in A.T.E. which is the major reason behind our successful partnership in India"

A.T.E. has been in the forefront of the Indian textileindustry providing latest technology solutions and serving as a one window solution provider across the textile value chain. A.T.E., with its strong sales network, customer relationship and industry knowledge, has been a perfect partner for LUWA over a decade.

Birla Cellulose Conducts Hub Development meet in Bhagalpur

Through this meet Liva aimed to take forward its initiative that was started in Salem of providing innovation, technical, product and marketing solutions for the value chain, buyers, exporters and brands across the country. The objective of the meet was to build awareness on emerging trends in women's apparel globally and particularly in India, changing needs of consumer and growing environmental concerns. It also aimed to share unique opportunities for yarn partners and weavers to grow their business with Liva. Buyers representing prominent brands were also present for the conclave.

"There is a huge gap in the product offerings in Sarees from Bhagalpur. You either have a premium or there is basic level. There is a need for mid and mid premium range. We aim to fulfil this gap by giving our partners more product offering and a compelling value proposition", said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Global Chief Sales and Marketing Officer, Birla Cellulose. Various innovative ranges of yarns, fabrics and sarees were showcased by various Liva's esteemed partners. The products showcased were well-regarded for their superior hand feel and luxurious softness. The products which were most appreciated were Silk X Modal in dress material, sarees as well as stoles. Partners found the event to be highly relevant and were enthusiastic about the possibilities of innovation as well as processing and marketing support by Birla Cellulose. The event was well appreciated and the attendees are looking forward to associate with LIVA. Birla Cellulose also felicitated its valued partners in this forum appreciating their valued support in developing innovative yarns and fabrics.

Birla Cellulose as an organization aims at pushing the sustainability movement in India. With the entry of Liva in this category, Saree too is set to be more sustainable with use of technologically enhanced eco-friendly fabrics. March - April 2019

485

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Focuses innovations in Saree with Liva. Birla Cellulose hosted a Hub Development meet at Bhagalpur focusing on growth of the hub through innovations in dress materials, sarees& stoles with brand Liva. With the market for women's apparel witnessing high demand and expecting a further rise, it is definitely an area of focus for the industry. A traditional and one of the oldest textile centres of India, Bhagalpur has been associated with the silk industry for hundreds of years, and famous all over India for its Tussar Silk &BhagalpuriSaree.


NEWS

Birla Cellulose conducts successful hub meet in Salem As a part of their industry initiative, Liva from Birla Cellulose conducted a hub meet at Salem focusing on Saree Category. A key textile centre, Salem is known for yarn-dyed products and innovations in fabrics. The event was focused to provide a one-stop customer experience centre for innovation, technical, product and marketing solutions for the exporters, brands and buyers across the country focusing on the saree category. Today, the saree market is about INR 65,000 crore and Salem has a unique blended fabric offering for sarees. The motive of the meet was to build awareness for the emerging trends within the saree segment, and also sharing an opportunity for yarn partners and weavers especially from the Salem region to participants and grow their business with Liva. This meet had participants from different regions like Ellampalli, Erode, Salem, Perundarai, Gobbichittipallayam, Komarapalayam and Belgaum. Mr.Manohar Samuel, Senior President - Marketing, Birla Cellulose commented, "Salem being the current important textile centre and a forerunner in yarn products, proves the hub meet to be a perfect blend to provide the startling innovation and colours of the saree prod-

ucts to the various brands across domestic and global market. As per our consumer study, the demand for comfortable and sustainable products will keep growing and LIVA will work as the right solution for comfort and fashion." Various innovative ranges of yarns were showcased by our esteemed partners-Sumeet Synthetics, Keshav Rayon &Anjani associates. The products showcased were well-regarded for their superior hand feel and luxurious softness. The products which were most appreciated were Silk X Modal, cotton X Modal, and Nylon X Modal. Weavers found the event to be highly relevant and were enthusiastic about the possibilities of innovation as well as processing and marketing support by Birla Cellulose. The partners attending the event found networking opportunities through this event. The event was well appreciated and the attendees are looking forward to associate with Brand LIVA for sarees. These meets by Liva have always found to be highly relevant and create an enthusiastic air about the possibilities of innovation and marketing support.

ColorJet Becomes Platinum Sponsor at ITMA 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

From a net consumer of textile machinery to being a platinum sponsor of ITMA is a long way to come for the Indian textile machinery industry.ColorJet is the first Indian digital textile printing company to strike a platinum sponsorship deal at ITMA 2019and will have a stand at Hall-3, Booth No-B102.

ITMA is the world's leading showcase for textile and garment technology, including textile printing, and it provides the ideal platform for the industry to present a wide rangeof the latest technologies. ITMA 2015 featured 1,691 exhibitors from 46 countries, 95 supporting media from 19 countries and 123,000 buyers from 147 countries. Of these visitors, 21% were from the printing and dyeing sectors. Thetextile printing industry represents 30 billion square metres of material volume on an annual basis worldwide while global digital textile printing market was 486

valued at •1.17 billion in 2016 with growth forecast to reach •2.42 billionin 2021. Digitally printed textile is growing at a steady annual rate of25%. "ColorJet is proud to be Platinum sponsor of ITMA 2019. This partnership is aligned with our aspiration of becoming a global digital textile printing brand coming out of India with a face of efficient Indian engineering product and technology," says Mr Jitender Pal Singh,Vice President (Textiles) at ColorJet India. Ms Sylvia Phua, ITMA 2019 Project Directoradds, "Printing is an exciting sector at ITMA 2019 as the industry has seen vast transformation in the digital arena. We are pleased to welcome ColorJet, a leading Indian manufacturer of digital inkjet printers, to showcase their innovations at our exhibition." For more information please visit www.colorjetgroup.com. Media Contact: Ms.Kareena Choudhary Marketing Manager Colorjet India Limited Cell: +91 99100-90306/Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus CommunicationsIndia Cell: +91 98250-38518 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net March - April 2019


NEWS

Expert lecture by Mr. Ashok Swamy at SGGS Institute Mr. Ashok Swamy, General Manager, A.T.E. (alumnus 1991, SGGS Text) delivered expert lectures on "Advances in the Sizing" and "Robotics in Carpet Weaving" for the S.Y.& T.Y.Textile students on 19/3/2019.

Prosize and Robitics in Carpet. This event was organised by The Textile Association (India) Marathwada Unit and Textile Dept. of SGGSIET Nanded for textile students and staff. Dr. R. N. Joshi was the Coordinator for this activity. He has also organised and sponsored Alumni students' interaction program 2019 for SGGS Textile final year students in the COLORS hotel. Institute thanked him for his visits to the Institute and organising such a nice get-together continuously since last three years and also delivering expert lectures & motivational speech for students without taking any monetary returns. Really it was a GIVING BACK TO THE INSTITUTE.

He has shared the new upcoming technogies like

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) show continued significant growth GOTS Representative in India and Bangladesh In 2018, the number of GOTS certified facilities showed an increase of 14,6% from 5,024 to 5,760 facilities. Certified facilities are now located in 64 countries around the globe. GOTS certification covers the processing of certified organic fibres along the entire supply chain from field to finished product. The progress is seen in both production and consuming regions. Countries and regions with the largest growth in percentage in 2018 in GOTS certification are: Bangladesh (+29%), North America (+25%), Pakistan (+23%) and South Korea (+23%). In terms of total numbers, the highest increase is reported from India (+315), followed by Bangladesh (+155) and Europe (+98). The top ten countries in terms of total number of certified facilities are: India (1973), Bangladesh (689), Turkey (519), Germany (500), Italy (340), China (301), Pakistan (238), Portugal (215), USA (127), and South Korea (85). The 18 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies reported more than 2.02 million people working in GOTS certified facilities. March - April 2019

"The increasing number of certified facilities aligns with the common desire to solve sustainability related problems. It confirms that GOTS is seen as part of the solution. Company leaders use GOTS as risk management tool and as market opportunity. Consumers value the verifiable certification from field to finished product." said GOTS Managing Director Claudia Kersten at the GOTS Annual Meeting in Izmir, Turkey. The number of chemicals in the Positive List shows an increase of 13% to 20,231 from 778 suppliers. The GOTS Positive List contains tradenames of approved chemicals that must be used by all textile processors for processing of GOTS goods. "Bangladesh continued its second position and registered a growth of 29 percent in terms of GOTS certified facilities. We shall be organizing GOTS Bangladesh Seminar 2019 on 8th September in Dhaka and look forward to hosting all local stakeholders there", said Sumit Gupta, GOTS Representative in India & Bangladesh. "Besides a thriving export market, India has an emerging domestic market for organic textiles. Several new brands have started offering GOTS goods in domestic sector during year 2018 and two major brands are planning to do so this year", continues Mr. Gupta. 487

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

5,760 certified facilities, increase of 14.6%, with more than 2 million workers reported in 2018


NEWS

Highlights from the universe of high-performance warp knits KARL MAYER is inviting the sector to an exchange of ideas at Techtextil, stand 3.0/E 18, 14.-17.5.2019 in Frankfurt

possibilities of additive production with warp knitting technology. Examples of this include warp knits functionalised by 3D printing and these are being presented at Techtextil. KARL MAYER has grouped together all its activities relating to the use of new technologies and innovative products under the concept of RAPID TEXTILE. They form part of the TEXTILE MAKERSPACE system, a platform that offers the space to try things out, develop new products and think outside the box.

Conductive warp-knitted textile from the TEXTILE CIRCUIT platform

TEXTILE CIRCUIT - the quick way to electrifying designs Electrically conductive textiles are a hot topic at the moment and can be produced in a variety of different ways. The easiest method is to directly incorporate conductive yarns during fabric production on the machine. TEXTILE CIRCUIT, another element of TEXTILE MAKERSPACE, shows the potential of warp knitting here. Conductive zones offering maximum flexibility in terms of geometry, dimensions and location can be produced on KARL MAYER's multibar raschel machines. Examples include inductive charging stations and the remote control of robots, and these are being demonstrated at Techtextil.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3D-printed textile

KARL MAYER is showcasing warp-knitted textiles having an exceptional level of performance in hall 3.0/ E 18 at Techtextil 2019 in Frankfurt. On show will be products with integrated electrical conductivity and shaping characteristics from the new TEXTILE MAKERSPACE platform, an extremely efficient textile solution for protecting buildings, and a completely new generation of warp-knitted spacer textiles. KARL MAYER is also inviting people to attend an in-house show, to be held at the same time as the fair, at its headquarters in nearby Obertshausen. This event is easily accessible by bus transfer and will be premiering a new nonwovens machine for the visitors. KARL MAYER is also a trendsetter in the field of digitisation. This manufacturer has grouped all its digital solutions under the KM.ON brand, and will also be showcasing this system on its stand at the Techtextil. RAPID TEXTILE- the quick way to new solutions Textiles with an excellent performance and lower manufacturing costs can be produced by combining the 488

New solutions for patterns with plastic effects Double-bar raschel machines have become firmly established in the production of warp-knitted spacer textiles featuring a variety of designs. A new model is now enabling completely new designs to be produced, i.e. warp-knitted textiles with decorative, relief surfaces. Instead of the spacer layer, three-dimensional design elements are worked on the upper and lower sides. The designs can be shaped and positioned almost without any restrictions, and can be combined with openwork designs. This is opening up a new dimension in near-net-shaped production in particular. Security panels made from weft-inserted warp-knitted textiles - efficient cut protection for buildings and vehicles Burglars frequently use chainsaws and drills during attempted break-ins, but they can be stopped effectively by a new type of patented security panel with weft-inserted warp-knitted textiles in the core. On contact with the cut-resistant textiles, the rotating tools quickly release large amounts of fibres from the material. These become entangled and the tool is stopped. The highly effective security panels are also very light and can be applied very easily to e.g. security doors, March - April 2019


NEWS armoured vehicles, vaults and cash machines. New raschel machine for web bonding - more opportunities on the nonwovens market A model in the new RACOP-NW series will be demonstrated at an in-house show in Obertshausen at the same time as Techtextil. This efficient nonwovens machine produces stitch-bonded nonwovens from feed webs, a technology that offers many advantages. This process produces nonwovens having textile characteristics, such as elasticity and voluminosity, which is not the case when using chemical bonding agents. Furthermore, much less energy is consumed compared to thermal processes. In addition to these general advantages, the new RACOP-NW model also offers an

exceptional cost:benefit ratio. It is also extremely flexible and can, therefore, be used in a variety of applications. A RACOP-NW, 160", gauge E 14, is producing a textile for the application area heating textiles at the in-house show. Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel.: 06104/402-274 Fax: 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Lenzing wins the IDEA Raw Material Achievement Award

VEOCEL™ VEOCEL™ is Lenzing Group's flagship specialty nonwoven brand. Derived from renewable raw material wood, VEOCEL™ provides natural care, every day, and is committed to driving industry standards around sustainability and natural comfort in the nonwoven sector. VEOCEL™ transfers the essence of nature into nonwoven products through the beneficial properties of VEOCEL™ fibers, including natural absorbency, liquid distribution, contribution to breathability, biodegradability and versatility. The VEOCEL™ product portfolio includes VEOCEL™ Lyocell and VEOCEL™ Specialty Viscose fibers that are tailored for sustainable lifestyles and helps to maintain environmental balance by being fully integrated into nature´s cycle. These fibers are certified clean and safe, biodegradable, from botanic origin and manufactured in an environmentally responsible production process.The VEOCEL™ brand is categorized into four branded offers including VEOCEL™ Beauty, VEOCEL™ Body, VEOCEL™ Intimate and VEOCEL™ Surface and its fibers are used in baby care, beauty and body care, intimate care and surface cleaning products. Fibers under the VEOCEL™ brand are derived from renewable wood sources from certified and controlled forests and plantations and are manufactured in enviMarch - April 2019

ronmentally responsible and closed loop production processes. The fibers are compostable and biodegradable, enabling them to break down safely into raw materials and fully revert back into the environment. Lenzing Group The Lenzing Group stands for ecologically responsible production of specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood. As an innovation leader, Lenzing is a partner of global textile and nonwoven manufacturers and drives many new technological developments. The Lenzing Group's high-quality fibers form the basis for a variety of textile applications ranging from elegant ladies clothing to versatile denims and high-performance sports clothing. Due to their consistent high quality, their biodegradability and compostability Lenzingfibers are also highly suitable for hygiene products and agricultural applications. The business model of the Lenzing Group goes far beyond that of a traditional fiber producer. Together with its customers and partners, Lenzing develops innovative products along the value chain, creating added value for consumers. The Lenzing Group strives for the efficient utilization and processing of all raw materials and offers solutions to help redirect the textile sector towards a closed-loop economy. Key Facts & Figures Lenzing Group 2018 Revenue: EUR 2.18 bn Nameplate capacity: 1,034,000 tons Employees: 6,839 TENCEL™, VEOCEL™, LENZING™, REFIBRA™, ECOVERO™, LENZING MODAL™, LENZING VISCOSE™, MICROMODAL™ and PROMODAL™ are trademarks 489

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Lenzing AG: VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco Cycle Technology won the IDEA Raw Material Achievement Award for best new fiber/raw material introduction presented by INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry on Wednesday 27, 2019. The IDEA awards recognizes 15 brilliant cutting-edge innovations as finalists in the nonwovens and engineered materials industry. The finalists range from next generation machinery with digital tools for intelligent production, to layer composite fabrics and sustainable fibres.


POST EVENT REPORT

TAI celebrated its 80 years Anniversary 80Years Anniversary Celebration of The Textile Association (India) with one day conferenceon" Global Textile, Changing Scenario in current Times". The Textile Association (India) celebrated its 80 years Anniversary, hosted by The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit on 09th April, 2019 at Dinesh Hall, Ahmedabad.

Guest of Honor Dr. Chandan Chatterjee lightening the lamp along with other dignetories on the dais

Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman welcoming all the present Dignetories, Guests & Invities Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman lightening the lamp along with other dignetories on the dais

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Chief Guest Shri Jaynarayan Vyas lightening the lamp along with other dignetories on the dais

It was 9th April 1939, the foundation of theTextile Association (India), laid to face the host of challenges. The vision created by Founders, Technocrats and leaders from small and big industries came together on a common platform that would bring laurels to not only industry but to the country at the large.

'Global Textile, Changing Scenario in Current Times' was not just the theme of the conference to celebrate the 80th Anniversary, but it was the concern to bring back the pristine glory of the Industry. Near about 700 delegates participated in this conference and at the premises of conference venue there were 10 stalls prepared for different textile companies where we have offered one stall in the name of Government of Gujarat also to display their latest product brochures, banners etc. After invocation,a prayer to Lord Ganesh, and lighted the lamp by the dignetories, Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman welcomed all the guests, invitees and dignitaries on the dias and delivered speech about the conference. Presidential address given by Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President of TAI.80th Anniversary commemorative lecture by Mr. Arvind Sinha gave present status of textile world. Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas, Chief Guest, had given brief over-

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POST EVENT REPORT view of the Textile Industry in general and touched the aspects from cotton to synthetics and various aspects of value change with reference to textile. The Textile Association (India) presented various awards during 80 Years anniversary celebration conference to the eminent personalities who have rendered their services to The Textile Association (India) and in the textile industry in various fields with their outstanding professional and Technical Experties. Mr. M. K. Mehra, Past President, TAI is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. M. K. Mehra, Past President, TAI is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Sr. No.

Award Category

Receipients Name

01

BHISHMA PITAMAH Award

Shri M. K. Mehra Past President of TAI

02

BHISHMA PITAMAH Award

Shri Suresh G. Vaidya Trustee of TAI

03

BHISHMA PITAMAH Award

Shri D. G. Naik Past President of TAI-AU

04

PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE Award

Shri Devraj R. Mehta Past President of TAI

05

INDUSTRIAL EXCELLENCE Award

Shri Subhash Bhargava MD - Colorant Ltd.,

06

TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE Award

Shri Manjit Singh Saini CEO & Executive Director, Paramount

07

ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Award

Dr. NavinSheth Vice Chancellor, Gujarat Technological University

08

ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Award

Prof. Parimal H. Vyas Vice Chancellor, MS University, Baroda

09

ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Aaward

Prof. Ashwin Thakkar HoD - Textile Technology, L. D. College of Engineering, Ahmedabad

10

BEST EMPLOYEE OF TAI AWARD

Shri VithalPhondke Office Manager of TAI-Central Office

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Mr. D. R. Mehta, Past President, TAI is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas


POST EVENT REPORT

Mr. D. G. Naik, Past President, TAI - Ahd Unit is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Prof. Ashwin Thakkar receiving the award on behalf of Prof. Parimal H. Vyas, Vice Chancellor, The MS University, Vadodaraby hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. Saurabh Bhargava, M D, Colorant Ltd. is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. Vithal Phondke, Office Manager of TAI-Central Office is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Manjit Singh Saini, CEO & Executive Director, Paramount is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman is felicicating Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Registrar Dr. J. C. Lilani receiving the award on behalf Prof. (Dr.) NavinSheth, Vice Chancellor, Gujarat Technological University, Ahmedabad by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas 492

Later on in the first session Mr.VarunVaid, Associate Director-Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd., representing Government of Gujarat and given key areas to focus factory start-up strategies, project feasibilities, value chain mapping, policy formulation outputs and financial modelling. He leads the strategy products in the Textile and Apparel sector. The next paper in the session by Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Head, Shirting Business of Raymond Ltd., March - April 2019


POST EVENT REPORT

In the afternoon,3 technical papers were presented. 'Sustainibility in Textile-need of future' by Mrs. Manjiri Paranjape, Sr. General Manager, R & D of Rossari Biotech Ltd. Climatic changes are one of the major concerns of the 21st century.The Textile Industry has undergone a drastic transformation due to growing pollution problem. Implementing laws. Increase awareness among the consumers to buy textiles that use less water, energy and chemicals, and ultimately lowers the environmental issues. This has increased the demand for sustainable and eco-friendly textiles. The other paper 'Weaving-Latest Technology' presented by Mr. Pradeep Kulshreshtha, Plant Head of United Fiber Composite Pvt. Ltd. Weft insertion methods for making Apparels and Technical fabrics have been widely adopted around the globe. He discussed the evolution of weaving, basics of weft insertion techniques significantly. Selection of loom depends upon the type of textile materials that has to be woven, which is again depends upon the ever changingtrend of the market.The real innovative and need of the hour topic -related to ENVIRONMENT was by Mr. Kasper Nossent, Director-DyecooAsia , introducing the green revolution. System describes 'Waterless Dyeing" A great environmental blessing in today's time', and presenting 'a game changing technology'. The main attraction of the conference was THREE Panel discussions, which were attended by most of the delegates participated very effectively with live discussion. The first Panel Discussion was on 'Fiber, Spinnig & Machinery' chaired by Mr. B.B.Sharma, CEO, Textile Projects, Sintex Industries Ltd. Consisting the valuable experienced panel membersfrom the various industries. Mr. Atul Vaidya, GM, Sales from Oerlikon Textile India Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Lalit Kalantri from Bajaj Steel Industries Ltd.; Dr. Hemant S. Sonare, Group Director-Wanjari Group.; Mr. Manijit Singh Saini, CEO & Executive Director from Paramount & Ms. Daxa Jani, Manager, Cotton MCX, Mumbai.They have taken March - April 2019

care of various aspects of manufacturing industries and issues based on them.Even finance / Market trading regarding cotton and varied substrates. In the afternoon session, the Second Panel Discussion on 'Apparels' which was chaired by Mr. Arvind Sinha, Chief Advisor & CEO of Business Advisors Group. India is a land of opportunity, Think globally and act locally will be the main consideration for coming years. Fiber, yarn, fabric or apparels- the significance of adopting export oriented and quality conscious approach to occupy driver's seat in the global market. Keeping this in mind we had Mrs. Meena Kaviya, Director of Ayma Creations Pvt. Ltd.,

Mr. Bhavin Parikh, CEO of Global Textiles (India) Ltd., and Prof.Ashwin Thakkar, HoD, Textile Technology of L.D.College of Engineering.This session remained very interesting and informative with active participation from the audience. After tea-break, the third Panel Discussion on 'Technical Textile' was chaired by Mr. Amit Agrawal,Vice Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association.The members of the panel were Dr. P.A .Khatwani, Professor- Textile Dept. SCET , Surat, Mr. Ravishankar Gopal, Managing Consultant- KS Technical and Management Consultant, and Mr. Hemant Dave, President, TAI- Baroda Unit. Technical textile is the fastest growing sector of Textile Industries.These are the textile materials and products mainly manufactured for the technical and performance properties rather than their aesthetic properties.It is expected that the demand for technical textiles in India will increase expotentially. There was tremendous response from the delegates and the quest for the subject by the delegates was really worth appreciable and faculties had tried their level best to satisfy them. At the end,in the valedictory session, Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Director-Retlon Industries Pvt. Ltd. & Inventive Hospitality Promotional Councilhad briefly outlined the deleberations held during the conference and conclude very effectively. Shri Ashokkumar D. Patel, Hon. Secretary of TAI-Abad Unit proposed vote of thanks of the conferene.

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who shared his experience of dealing with the 'International Brand Licensing' issue, extensive exposure in worsted textile, Denim, Sportswear and Sports Footwear Industries.Mr. Subhash Bhargava,Managing Director representing Colorant Ltd.,given overall review of Indian Dyes Market. Increased focus is being laidon environmental friendliness and ensuring greater customer focus through technical services and marketing capabilities to face global competition. The Dyestuff Industry is not applying only sustainable processing but also coming up with sustainable textile solutions.


POST EVENT REPORT

TAI Madhya Pradesh Unit celebrated its Platinum Anniversary The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unit celebrated their 75th anniversary on 02nd March, 2019 as a National Textile Summit and Platinum Jubilee celebration in the Jall Auditorium, Indore.

ideological exchange in this program. Many people related to the textile industry of Madhya Pradesh were involved in this program. On this forum, we respect all the legends with respect to some of the people who assist with the Textile Association, where the main name is Mr. Sandeep Jain, Mr. Ajit Jain, Mr. Purushottam Pasari, Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari, Dr. Jayantilal Bhandari, Mr. Keshav Singh etc. This evening, the Chief Guest, Dr. Narendra Dhakadji was honored with Shrimat Bhagwat Geeta, after honoring the visiting guest and forwarding the program, a journal of the Voice of the World which is released once every 6 months in the association, released it. It was received by Mr. Purushottam Pasaraji, the first copy taken by the Chief Guest of the evening today, after which it was distributed among all guests.

The Textile Association (India) Madhya Pradesh unit has been working for overall development of textile industry in Madhya Pradesh since last 75 years. It was started in 1944, which has been established today with more than 2000 members as one of the big TAI unit.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Various programs are organized from time to time by TAI M.P.Unit to which exchanges dialogues on topics related to textile industry. At present the textile is going through a difficult phase. In such a situation, it is necessary that we make some efforts to improve the condition of Textile Industries. This program is a small effort, in which the Textile Specialists present in the program expressing their views, and will also tell you what efforts can be made to improve this situation.

Industry leaders, teachers, students and people working on the shop floor were invited from the textile for 494

While moving the program forward, what should one try to do for the Happiness in the textile guest, and thanking the Textile Association, expressed his own ideologies in front of everyone and said that this work cannot be done without the cooperation of everyone. All of us should make efforts to do this together. All the speakers stressed that the condition of today's textile is very pathetic, then this is will try together all | finally, thanking everyone for the program culminated with dinner. Highlights 1. Dr. Narendra Dhakad spoke on make it India & Institute world together than situation. 2. Dr. M. D.Telispoke that it is most important honesty in our profession. 3. Shri Kailash Agrawal (Cotton Chapter) Honored by Mr. Ankit Veda Name of member attended the program; Mr. Ashok Veda, Mr. A.K. Sharma, Mr. M. C. Rawat, Mr. Sushil Moghe, Mr. K. S. Sikarwar, Mr. Pratap Singh Sikarwar, Mr. Praveen Joshi, Mr. Ashok Prasad, Mr. Ashok Mehra, Dr. Prabir Kumar Choudhary, Dr. Nilesh, Mr. J. N. Kapoor, Mr. Virendra, Mr. S. Kapoor, Mr. T. K. Sinha, Mr. Pawan Kumar Gupta,Mr. Himanshu Garg, Mr. Manoharlal, Mr. P. Raj Shukla, Mr. Sriniwas Rao K, Prof. Mr. Kushal, Ms Priti Warathe, Mr. Tanveer Malik, Mr. Vijay Kumar Kothari, Ms. Purnima Kothari, Mr. Sudershan Dhamija, Mr. Kushal Sen etc.

March - April 2019


THIS MAY INTEREST YOU

Central Banks under Political threats globally Sourced & Compiled by Mr. Arvind Sinha The global rise of central-bank independence in the past 25 years. In the 1970s it was normal for politicians to manipulate interest rates to boost their own popularity. That led to a plague of inflation. And so rich countries and many poorer ones shifted to a system in which politicians set a broad goal steady prices and left independent central bankers to realise it. In a single generation billions of people around the world have grown used to low and stable inflation and to the idea that the interest rates on their bank deposits and mortgages are under control.

India's government has replaced a capable central-bank chief with a pliant insider who has cut rates ahead of an election. Huge exercise Indian Elections are already going on as this submit this article 3/4th of Indian Elections are already over many top jobs at the European Central Bank (ECB), including the presidency, are up for grabs, and some could become part of a wider political struggle over who runs Europe's institutions.

How Central Bank Works

The problem of politicisation last became acute in the 1970s. After the post-war Bretton Woods currency system collapsed, central banks failed to tame racing inflation because politicians, who pulled the strings, were reluctant to bear the short-term cost of higher unemployment. Two decades of runaway prices and crises led to a new orthodoxy that central banks should be given operational autonomy to pursue an inflation target. In the euro zone, Japan and Britain central banks became legally independent in the 1990s. In America the White House refrained from even publicly discussing Fed policy. This consensus survived the crash of 2007-08 and is one reason why global inflation has been only 4% a year on average over the past two decades.

Today this success is threatened by a confluence of populism, nationalism and economic forces that are making monetary policy political again. President Donald Trump has demanded that interest rates should be slashed, speculated about firing the boss of the Federal Reserve and said he will nominate Stephen Moore and Herman Cain, two unqualified cronies, to its board. Brexiteers rubbish the competence and motives of the Bank of England. March - April 2019

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There is a genuine need for reflection on central banks' objectives and tools. But dangerous forces are afoot that could have alarming consequences for economic stability.


THIS MAY INTEREST YOU The fraying of central banks' independence has several causes. One is populism. Leaders combine the politician's desire for low interest rates with a reckless urge to undermine institutions. Another is the scope of central banks' activities, which expanded after the financial crisis. Most now hold huge portfolios of government bonds while, at the same time policing the financial industry. And the record of central banks is far from perfect. Because they have probably been too hawkish (despite their unconventional policies) the recovery from the crisis has been slow, undermining voters' faith in the technocrats whose loyalty is supposedly to the public interest. All this makes it easier to view them as political. Meanwhile, the memory of the crises that led to independence has faded. In Europe a flurry of job changes threatens to lower the calibre of decision-making at the ECB and feed underlying disagreements. By the end of the year, three members of the six-strong executive board and eight of the 19 national governors, who also vote on rates, will have left. Behind the political game of revolving chairs is a battle between countries to control policy. Northern Europeans have been suspicious of the ECB's bond-buying, seeing it as cover for subsidising southern Europe. Rather than win by force of argument, they are seeking an edge by getting their own people into the top jobs. That will store up problems.

globally, as in the wake of the crisis. The ECB will have to convince markets that it will do whatever it takes to contain another financial panic on Europe's periphery. The presence of political appointees, who are either ill-qualified or northern European hawks, would make all these tasks harder. It is not just that their votes count, but also that they would poison the public debate about what central banks should and should not do to deal with recessions. The talking cure

It is right that the objectives and tools of monetary policy are subject to democratic scrutiny and that central bankers are accountable to legislatures. The Fed is reviewing its target in order to be prepared for a downturn. Other central banks should follow suit. In the long run, this secures their legitimacy and hence their independence.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Yet in today's political environment it is naive to think that politicians really want a considered debate. Instead, the more central banks are in the limelight, the more they will find their month-to-month decisionmaking subject to external pressure, or find themselves at the whim of boards packed with hacks.

Perhaps global inflation will rise again from its grave, in which case weaker central banks may struggle to kill it off. More likely is an economic downturn. The world economy has decelerated this year on April 9th the IMF downgraded its forecasts. Central banks may find themselves needing to pep up their economies. This is what makes today's politicisation so dangerous. Technocrats face a difficult challenge. The rich world has hardly any room to cut interest rates before hitting zero, so central banks will once again have to turn to unconventional stimulus, such as bond-buying. The Fed and other central banks may also need to co-operate 496

It is just that sort of politicisation that the theorists behind independent central banks wanted to avoid. Look back 40 years and you will get a flavour of what could go wrong. Sourced & Compiled by Mr. Arvind Sinha - CEO M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai Cell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612 Email ID: arpsinha09@gmail.com / lionasinha@gmail.com

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FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

ABROAD

Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet - 'Source India 2019' Date : 21st to 23rd August, 2019 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. MuraliBalkrishna, Joint Director The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council Tel. : +91-22-62318282 E-mail : murali@srtepc.in Website : http://www.srtepc.in

International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition (ITME AFRICA) Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020 Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Contact : India ITME Society 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021 Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834 Fax : 022-2285 1578, M.: 7303456667 E-mail : itme@india-itme.com, itme@itme-africa.com Website : itme-africa.com

VIBRANT Terry Towel - Global Expo & Summit 2019 Date : 25th to 27th September, 2019 Venue : Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskutik Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari Sugar Factory Area, Hotgi Road, Solapur - 413 224 Maharashtra, India Contact : Mr. Rajesh Goski, CEO - VTT GES 2019 Textile Development Foundation, P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road, Solapur - 413 006 Mobile : +91-9422459001 E-mail : rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.com, Website : www.vibrantterrytowel.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Great India Textile Show Date : 15th to 17th November, 2019 Venue : Station Road, Ichalkaranji, Dist.: Kolhapur (MH) Contact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha Essential Events & Trades Fairs M. : +91-9324077881, +91-9718514089 E-mail : mkt.essential@gmail.com Website : www.essentialtradefairs.com 3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition (ITMACH) Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawala Mob. : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401 E-mail : info.itmach.com / amey@itmach.com Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. Arvind Semlani, Mob. : +91- 9833977743 E-mail : info.itmach.com Website : www.ITSE.com 502

ITMA 2019 - Largest International Textile and Garment Technology Exhibition Date : 20th to 26th June, 2019 Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via, Barcelona, Spain Contact : Daphne Poon Marketing Communications Director ITMA Services Pte Ltd. 73 Ubi Road 1, #08-48 Oxley BizHub, Singapore 408733 Tel. : (65) 6849 9362, M: (65) 94789543 E-mail : Pdaphnepoon@itma.com Website : www.itma.com 5th Edition - Intex South Asia 2019 Date : 13th to 15th November, 2019 Venue : BMICH (Sirimavo Bandaranaike Exhibition Centre) Colombo, Sri Lanka Contact : Mr. Narendra Sharma, Project Associate Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. 309, Parvati Premises, Sun Mill Complex, Lower Parel (W), Mumbai - 400 013 Tel. : +91-22-4037670 Ext.702, Mobile : +91-9821232723 E-mail : intexfair@worldexindia.com Website : www.intexfair.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. March - April 2019




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