Journal of the Textile Association - Jul-Aug 2022 by TheTextile Association (India)

Shri D. R. Mehta was graduated from The Technological Institute of Textiles and Sciences (TITS), Bhiwani in Textile Technologyin1966.HewasalsohavingFellowoftheTextileInstitute(FTI),(Manchester),F.I.E.,F.T.A.&CharteredEngineer.

WithhisdynamicandexcellentleadershiporganizedmagniﬁcentﬁrsttimeWorldTextileConference(WTC)whichwitnessed mostsuccessfulandwellattendedbyInternationaldignitaries.Thereafter,heorganizedseveralmegaconferenceswithgrand successsuchasGlobalTextileCongress2015,SecondWorldTextileConference(WTC2),SouthAsiaTextileSummit,Global Innovators and Researchers Conclave (2018) etc. along with the Presidential term of Mr Sinha. His strong follow-up for completionofanytaskwastremendous.NowhewasveryeagertoholdtheWorldTextileConference-3atAhmedabad.

HewasarecipientoftheServiceGoldMedalin2000.HewasfullofenergyandenthusiasmtoworkforbettermentoftheTextile industryandespeciallyforTAI.TAIlostagemofaperson,whichcannotbeforgotten.

On behalf of the entireTAI family, we oﬀer our sincere condolences & pray to give enough potential to his near & dear and familymembers.WepraytotheAlmightytoprovideenergytobearthelossandpraylethisnoblesoulrestinpeace. DearMehtaJi,weallaremissingyou!!!

Mr.MehtawascloselyassociatedwithTheTextileAssociation(India),MumbaiUnitandCentreOﬃce.HewasPresidentand TrusteeofTAI-MumbaiUnit&thenPresidentandTrusteeforTAICentral.HewasaTAICentralPresidentduring2009-11, 2011-13&2013-14andthenwasPresidentEmeritusfortheperiod2014-15&2015-17.

AftergraduationheinitiallyworkedinthePrivateTextileMillsinIndiaandinMalaysiaMills.Heworkedinthecapacityof Production Manager, General Manager in the Composite Processing Mills and NationalTextile Corporation (NTC). He was selectedforDirectorTechnicalandafterCMDforNTCMaharashtra(North).HealsoworkedwithHacobaEmbroideriesand EurotexIndustries&ExportLtd.intheSpinningDivision.Hehadhavingmorethan53YearswideworkingexperienceinIndia &abroad.PresentlyhewasconsultingtosomeoftheTextileorganizations.

3554 8619

Thesectorliberalization,

Today,theIndiantextileindustryisoneofthemostvibrantindustrieswithdiversespectrumof activities from decentralized power looms, hosiery and knitting sectors to the handicrafts segmentsandawiderangeofman-madeandnaturalﬁbers.Thetextileindustryisuniquewithits closelinkagetoagricultureaswellascultureandtraditionsofthecountry.

Dr.D.V.Raisinghani Hon.Editor,JTA

as India celebrates 75 years of Independence, the textile industry has come a long way sincethedaysofthespinningwheelandtheloom.Theindustryisnowoneofthemostmodern anddynamicsectorsoftheIndianeconomywithabrightfutureahead.

privatizationandglobalizationinthe90's,gaveaboosttoIndianeconomyand amuch-neededthrusttotheIndiantextileindustrymakingitoneoftheleadingtextileindustries in the world. National Textile Policy 2000 improved the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry with major focus on technical upgrades, productivity enhancement, diversification of products and financing arrangements. The abolition of quotas that governed the international tradeintextilesandclothingin2005openedupIndianfirmstointernationalcompetition,

The Indian Government has played an important role in the development of Indian textile industryatbothnationalandinternationallevelsbyprovidingvarioussubsidiesandloans.The governmenthasinitiatedmanypolicymeasuressuchastheIntegratedSkillDevelopment(ISDS) Scheme to support skilled labour required for diverse textiles segments, 100% Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in the textile industry, Technology Up-gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) for easyaccesstocapitalfortechnologicalup-gradation,Production-linkedincentive(PLI)scheme and Prime Minister Mega IntegratedTextile Region andApparel (PM MITRA) are among the

Tfewoday,

The industry has gone through a number of changes since Independence in 1947, and after liberalizationinthe1990s.TheSwadeshimovementinthepre-independenterastimulatedthe demandforIndiantextileinthecountryandmadethecountryselfsufficient.Thetextileindustry wasoneofthefirstindustriestobenationalizedinIndiaafterindependenceandprobablyoneof themosttightlyregulatedindustrieswiththeindustrycomingundertheIndustries(Development andRegulation)Actforallocatinglicensesin1951.Thefocusofgovernmentpoliciesduringthe initial decades post Independence was towards protecting domestic employment along with developmentofmoreefficientproductiontechnologies.

TheMulti-FibreAgreement(MFA)in1974imposedquotasonclothingexportsandgovernedthe extent of textile trade between nations. The Indian textile industry responded to the quota restrictionsbyshiftingfromrawmaterialandunﬁnishedclothproductiontovalueaddedgarment production.TheNationalTextilePolicyin1985markedashiftfromemploymenttoproduction as well as from labour-intensive small-scale industry to capital- and technology-intensive mill

Today the National Mission for CLEAN ENVOIREMENT recognises that combatingriverpollutionisnotpossibleunlesswecanprovideeveryIndianwith workingtoilets,connectedtosystemsthatsafelydisposeofhumanexcreta.The agenda is therefore not just about building toilets but also about building sanitationsystemsthatareaﬀordabletoall.Growthcanonlybesustainablewhen doingaﬀordableandinclusive.

Ourcitiesdonottreatorsafelydisposeofthebulkofhumanexcreta.Alongwith makingeachtoiletweshouldalsothinkofsanitation.Wecannotmanageourrivers sustainably unless we ﬁx our waste management system. Dumping of industry eﬄuents leads to river water pollution.

Ifcurrentpoliciesarenotstrengthenedthantheworldisontracktowarmby3.20Cby2100.Co2emissionsfrom existing Coal, Oil and Gas contribute to this failure.We have to start using technologies that suck Co2 out of the atmosphere,sothatglobalgreenhousegas(GHG)mustfallby43%by2030ascompareto2019.TheuseofCoal, Oil,andGasmustdeclineby2050.WeshoulduseSolar,WindandLithiumBatteriesenergy.

Ø OtherSTEPSrequired.

v Pollutioncontrolrulesshouldbeequalinallstates

ii. Nuclearfusioncanbesourceofendlessenergy

iii. PreventDustfromstonecrushersbynewtechnology&guidelines

x. MoreuseofMMFFibreinsteadofNaturalFibresasingrowingNaturalﬁbresyouneedmorelandandwater

i. EliminateuseofMercuryingoldmining

vi. DalMills,AttaMillChakkiesshouldalsousetechnologytocontroltheiremissions.Govt.Shouldguidethem

Agriculture Scientists should promote organic and natural farming and to the farmers to grow cash crops. Using moreBRICKSmadefromupperlayerofearthinmakingbuildingisalsospoilingthetoplayerofourgoodearth.

xi. LastlyeachindividualpersonofthisPlanethastothinkandtaketheirresponsibilitytosavetheenvironment insteadofdependingontheGovernmentaction.

WE HAVE ONLY ONE PLANET TO LIVE SO TO LIVE HAPPILYWE SHOULD SAVE THIS PLANET

Mr. R. K. Vij, President - TAI

Ø SaveEarth

ix. RecyclingofusedGarmentUnitsshouldbeencouragedtoagainconvertintoyarn,fabric,garmente

Samelandcanbeusedtogrowmorefortheincreasingpopulations.

Prolongedandexcessiveuseofchemicalshasdeterioratedsoilhealthtosuchanextentthatorganismsthatlivedin soil have either vanished or decreasing in number.This is the reasons farmers who have small land holding, ﬁnd programmes such as the public distribution system and Mahatma Gandhi National Rural employment Guarantee Scheme,moreattractivethanfarming.

iv FacilitatingFarmers,sothattheyshouldnotburntheleftovercrop

vii. ToprovideBigBoilersfacilitiestoMSME's,inplaceofusingsmallBoilersbyeachunitswheretheclusterof unitsarethere.

Ø TakeWasteoutofWater

Ø SaveOxygen

viii. RecycledBottlesintheFood&BeverageProductsshouldbemademandatory.

1. Introduction

On the other hand, there are chances of reduction in core body temperature. During rest, most surplus heat energy from body is lost either by conduction or radiation. When clothsarewet,shiveringtakesplace.Inthesecases,thebody loses heat more rapidly than it is being produced. This phenomenon is known as hypothermia. The core body temperatureat24°Candbelowmayalsoresultindisastrous consequences. Either reduction in thermal conductivity insidethemicroclimateorhigherthermaltransmission,both causeslossincomfort.

Keywords:Breathabletextile,coating,lamination,moisturevapourtransmission,physiologicalcomfort.

The rate of evaporation depends on relative humidity As physical work continues, the amount of moisture increases inside microclimate exists between body skin and clothing material. The moisture absorption capacity of air inside microclimate decreases with time as amount of moisture increases with activities [2, 3 & 5].Therefore, even though the temperature is lower, discomfort increases. If sweat produced is higher than the rate of evaporation, the body is preventedfromthecoolingeﬀect;thecorebodytemperature increasesandresultsintohyperthermia.

Awaterproof breathable fabrics are expected to exhibit contradictory requirements including impermeability for penetratingwaterandpermeableformoisturevapour Toaccomplishtheseobjectivesforrainwear,sportwear,medicaland workwear applications; the methods like coating or lamination are employed. The coating chemical layers or laminating films have either hydrophilic or hydrophobic characteristics and results into resistance to water penetration and permit water vapours to transmit across the specimen. In the present review, need of breathability, historical development in breathablefabrics,manufacturingapproachesandrelatedmechanismsarediscussedalongwiththerecentdevelopmentsin coatingchemicals.

* Corresponding Author: Dr.ShirishkumarVhanbatte

Citation: S. B. Vhanbatte, Bharti Thakur & R. L. Gotipamul, “5A Review on Breathable Fabrics Part – I: Fabric Construction”, JournaloftheTextile Association,83/2(82-87),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

2.ThermalComfort

AssociateProfessor,TextileEngineering,DepartmentofTextiles DKTES'sTextileandEngineeringInstitute,Ichalkaranji–416 115Dt.Kolhapur(MS)

AReviewonBreathableFabricsPart–I:FabricConstruction

To protect the human body from extreme weathering conditions like water or rain, sleet or snow fall and wind, waterproofbreathablefabricsarepreferred.Waterproofness and breathability are two contradictory functions expected from same fabric. Waterproof means fabric impervious to water It prevents entirely the penetration as well as absorption of water.At the same time, it should exhibit the breathabilitybyallowingeffectivetransmissionofmoisture from microclimate between skin and clothing, to outside atmosphere[1].Theapplicationsofsuchfabricincludefoul weather leisure wear, sport wear, rain wear, specialized medical safety equipment and military usage The breathability along with high standard waterproof property from fabric is anticipated, depending on level of protection required The wide range of end user products have categorised as leisure for heavy duty foul weather and fashionable weather protection including over trouser, cagoules, hats, gloves, rain wear, skiwear, golf suit, tents, sleeping bags and covers. Under the work wear products were classified as foul weather and domestic transport including survival suits, military protective clothing, surgical garments, hospitals drapes, mattresses and covers, tarpaulins, filtration, clean room wear, car covers, smoke coversandcargowraps[1].

Too much always creates discomfort; too hot, too cold or heavyrain,furtherwindandsleetdisturbphysicalcomfort. Theoretically, all these factors are directed to thermal properties of physical comfort [1, 2 & 3.] Core body temperatureforhumanis37°C,andskintemperatureis3to 5°Clowerthanthecore.Duetophysicalactivity,metabolic activities or psychosomatic reasons, body temperature increases. The core body temperature at 45°C and beyond

Abstract:

S. B. Vhanbatte*, Bharti Thakur & R. L. Gotipamul

Department of Textiles, DKTES's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, (MS), India

may result in disastrous consequences. During physical activity, body attains cooling mainly by producing sweat. Whenwaterinthebodyevaporatesintheformofmoisture,it absorbs latent heat from body and provides cooling aﬀect. Every litre of water evaporate from body absorbs approx. 539kcalenergyaslatentheatandreducesbodytemperature [4] Researchers elucidated physical activities and corresponding wark rate [3]. Sleeping and sitting activity have 60 and 100 watts work rate respectively Walking gently,activelyorcarryinglighttoheavypacksexhibitwork ratefrom200to500orevenmorethan1000wattsdepending on intensity of activity and ﬁtness. The equivalent water evaporationrategivenis38gday-1Watt-1.Toelucidate,the work rate for active walking is 300 watts, for cooling, equivalentwaterevaporatedis11,500g.day-1or480g.hr-1. Some amount of water gets evaporate in respiration and majoramountthroughskin.

ArticleReceived:11-01-2022, Revised:04-07-2022,Accepted:08-04-2022

E-mail:shirishkumar.vhanbatte@gmail.com

5. Waterproofbreathablefabricconstructions

A detailed review on history of waterproof breathable material[7]explainthatinancienttime,waterproofshelters, clothingforhuntingorfarming,forsportsoroutdooractivity

Commerciallypenetration.for

The fabrics employed to manufacture extreme weather clothingassemblyalsoresistswatertopenetrateinside.The evaluation of waterproofness is equivalent of placing a squaretubeof1inchsideoverthefabricandheightofwater columnrequiredtoleakismeasured.Thepressuregenerated by hydrostatic head breach the coated or laminated textile material and height of water column in millimetres is expressed as waterproof rating. The rating of 5000 mm is considered as waterproof material. Depending on weather conditionsanddegreeofwaterproofnessrequiredtheratings have recommended.The rating of 5000 mm provides some resistance to light rain, dry snow without pressure. The clothingwith10000mmratingresistslightrainandaverage snowfall with light pressure. For exposure to heavy intense rain or slit for longer period more than 20000 mm rating is required.Largerthenumber,thefabricismoreresistanceto water

The development in waterproof breathable took place in United Kingdoms, mainly due to their climatic conditions. Ventile clothing used by British military pilots were impenetrabletoarcticwindsandicywaterandshowedtobe tenfoldbetterperformanceofexistingproductsatthattime. Unlike rubber or plastic-coated textiles, they were made fromcloselywovencottonfabricallowingsweattotransfer to atmosphere and referred as ﬁrst-generation breathable

Earlyrecorded.attempts

hikingorskiingtherecommendedjackets areof10K/10Ktypes.First10Kindicatesfabricisresistance to 10000 mm hydrostatic head whereas second 10K describes breathability of fabric equivalent to 10000 grams ofwaterthrough1sq.mwithin24hours.

Tomaintainphysiologicallycomfortabletemperaturerange, the clothing has to permit the passage of perspiration produced during various physical activities Clothing comfort sensation is determined by a balanced process of vapour and heat exchange between body and atmosphere across clothing. The ability of the clothing fabric to allow moisturevapourtopenetratethroughfabricanddiffuseinthe atmosphere is referred as breathability; however, it is a general, qualitative and absolute term, because it is used as 'extremely' or 'high' or 'low' breathable. It's quantitative expressionordegreeofbreathabilityismeasuredintermsof moisturevapourtransmissionrate(MVTR)andexpressedas gramsofmoisturepassedthroughfabricpersquaremeterper day[6].Foramediumlevelphysicalactivity,abreathability ratingof5000–8000gramsmaybefine;whereasforheavy activitiestherecommendedclothingshallhaveratinginthe rangeof 10,000– 15,000grams.In caseclothingmeantfor longer exposure to foul weather, the manufacturer claim ratingofMVTR>20,000grams.Inbrief,largerthenumber, the fabric is more breathable; however, prediction of exact ratingisalwaysdifficultasmoisturetransportationacrossthe fabricorclothingassemblydependsonmultiplefactorslike temperature, relative humidity, rate of sweating, layers in clothingassemblyetc.Normallyheavyphysicalactivitymay be for short time, which may generate uncomfortable condition for time being; however, the lag of moisture transportation across the fabric should be minimum to achievecomfortablesituationagain.

Initially, these waterproof products were welcomed by market however, very soon it was realised that they are preventingpenetrationofmoisturetoeithersideandarenot suﬃciently comfortable Staying dry is not about only preventingwatertogetinsidetheclothingbutlettingsweat out is also essential. The solution to this problem led to introducingwaterproofbreathablefabric.

3. Breathability

Many previous workers have reviewed the fabric constructionusedforwaterproofbreathablefabricandtheir assembly made for suitable end application coating like extreme weathering conditions or sportswear [1, 2, 7, 8].

4.Historyofwaterproofbreathablefabrics

duringadverseclimaticconditionwererequiredandexisting materials were used. The material preferred include leather and textile made from natural ﬁbres like silk and wool and furthercottonandlinen.Therecordindicatestheuseofoilon silk fabric was common in historic times. Oily cloth won't allowwatertopenetrateandusedforshelter,coveringandas containers.Linenorcottonclothcoatedwithlinseedoilwas used as sail cloth, further oil was replaced by paraﬃn wax. The use of intestine and stomach of seal or whale was also

[8]introducedPTFEpolymerbasedwaterproof breathable fabric about 50 years before. A solid polymeric ﬁlm was heated and subjected to a sudden, accelerated expansion to the tune of 800% where it resulted into 70% porosityoraircontent.Theexpanded-ePTFE–wasusedas waterproof breathable membrane as it was claimed to have 1.4milliontinyholespersq.cm.Thesetinyholesgetblocked due to contamination and exhibited the reduction in performance.Further,theGore-Tex®developedhydrophilic PUbasedcoatedtextilewithimprovedperformanceandstill it is used for commercial applications like windcheater. Based on this scientiﬁc theory, many developments were takingplaceinwaterproofbreathabletextiles.

Gore-Tproducts.ex®

ofuseofrubberwerenotsuccessfulbecause athottemperatureitbecomestackyandatlowertemperature shown hardness, may be because of its glass transition. In 1823, a Scottish chemist – C Macintosh patented his work involved sandwiching moulded rubber between fabric coatedwithrubber–naphthamixture.Furthertheprocessof vulcanizingtherubberimprovedthequalityofthisproduct. The use of fats, waxes, oils, varnishes, pigments, guttapercha, Indian rubber or water-insoluble metal oxides were used to ﬁll-up the fabric interstices and block the water permeabilityforservethepurpose.

Figure 1 – a) dry (Ventile fabric), b) wet (Curtesy: Woodhead Publishing Ltd.) [2]

density fabric made from micro-denier synthetic filament / fibre ensures tiny inter fibre / filament spaces. This shows very good wind proofness and vapour permeability [9, 10]. The fabric constructions like taffeta, twill or oxford weave treated with water repellent finish are used for various functionalgarments.Densefabricmadeupofeithercottonor syntheticmaterialshowsgoodpermeabilitytowatervapour howeverwaterproofnessislimitedforprolongedexposure.

Figure 2 - Moisture transfer through membrane: GoreTex® construction (Curtesy:Gore-Tex®)[8]

Normally, either water vapour or liquid water transmitted across fabric through inters yarn spaces and diffusion through individual hydrophilic fibres. In addition, liquid water transmission takes place by capillary within fibres. Initially,Ventileisnotwaterproof,howeverwhenitcomesin contact with water, as shown in figure 1, the cotton fibres swell and inter yarn space get reduced significantly from about10μmindryto3–4μminwetstate. Thiscanprevent the penetration of water for about 20 minutes when the wearerissubmerged.

5.1 DenselyWovenfabric

a. b.

The water repellent ﬁnish can improve fabric functionality whenusedasrainwear,however,asitisnotcoatedorinter yarnporesarenotblocked,itexhibitsgoodbreathabilitybut lack in waterproofness for prolonged exposure to rain. Depending on end use applications, the Ventile can be engineered with fabric weight from 170-295 g.m-2. High

Ventile was the first reported breathable woven fabric by ShirleyinstituteUK.Thefabricwasmadefromlongstaple, low twist and mercerised yarn. High-dense Oxford weave wasusedwhereinplainweavetwoendsruninpair Because ofminimumweftcrimp,tosomeextentfibresareparallelto fabricsurface.Thisfabrichashighcoverfactor,flatsurface withgoodabrasionresistanceandlowerstiffness.

5.2 Membranes

However, moisture transportation through hydrophilic polymer membrane shows diffusion mechanism. Polymer containing hydrophilic functional groups like –O–, CO–, OH, NH in block copolymer segment, with which2 moisture can form reversible hydrogen bond. As moisture vapour pressure increases at one side, vapour molecule diffuses through film by stepwise moment along the functionalgroupsinpolymerchain,totheothersideoflower vapour pressure. The diffusion takes place mainly in soft segmentoramorphousregionofpolymericfilmanddepends ontemperature,vapourpressureateithersideofmembrane and thermal motion of polymeric chains as represented schematically in Figure 3. The presence of moisture may

Water resistance and moisture permeable fabrics can be manufacturedbyseveralwaysandclassiﬁedas: Denselywovenfabrics. Membranes Coated Smartbreathableandbiomimetic

Waterproof breathable fabric developed by laminating polymeric membrane offer high resistance to water penetration and allow vapour to diffuse. Microporous with 0.1–50μmsizeandthicknessofabout10micronsmadeout of polyurethane, acrylic, poly tetrafluoroethylene, polyvinylidene fluoride or poly-amino acids are used to laminatetextilematerial.PUcanbemodifiedasperenduse requirementbyalteringbasemonomersarealsoflexibleand tough and therefore, most preferably used. A thin film of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene polymer introduced by Gore-Tex, is claimed to have 1.4 billion micropores per sq. cm.The micropores sizing 2 – 3 μm are much smaller than water droplet however, water vapour molecules are much smaller and can escape through these pores as shown in figure2.

ThemixtureofPolyurethaneandpolyacrylicacidisaddedin bathcontainingfoamingagentandgeneratedfoamisapplied on nylon fabric. Further it is dried, calendared and treated with water repellent finish to waterproofness. Similarly, various other attempts are reported for generation of microporosity in coated film by solvent extraction method; solubilizingonecomponentfrompolymermixturecoatedon textile substrate. Owing to micron to submicron size of channelformedincoatedfilm,waterdropletispreventedto

causeswellingofhighlyhydrophilicpolymersandinfluence the rate of vapour diffusion. Polyvinyl alcohol, or polyethylene oxide containing segments may swell in presenceofwaterandcausepoorwetabrasionresistance.A properly balanced hydrophilic polymer segment provides adequate swelling to allow diffusion of water vapour and retains film strength. Hydrophobic polymer containing polyethyleneoxidesegmentshowedlowerbindingenergyto water vapour causing faster diffusion and also offer flexibilityandsofthandle.

High performance clothing is engineered as multi-layered assembly and membrane is introduced in clothing as per requirementwhichresultintobreathabilityandcareistaken nottoaﬀecttheclothingaesthetic,feelanddrape.Incaseof singlelayeredclothinglikerainwearoronetimeusemedical practitionerprotectiveclothing,membraneisﬁxedinsidethe clothing. However, in case of multi layered clothing assembly, it is placed in such a way that, membrane is not exposedtoeithersideofcloths;itremainsinsideattachedto anyonelayerasshownin

Other wet coagulation practices include, use of polyamide solutioninaciddope,appliedontextilesubstratebycoating to about 50μm thick and immediately neutralised using sodiumhydroxidefurtherwashedanddried.Microporescan also be developed on textile by leaching out of salt from coated film of Porvair, Porell, Permair etc., in water bath. Coating paste additives like inorganic filler silica, magnesiumoxideofsubmicronsizeandapplicationofwater repellent finish improves waterproofness and breathable

The commonly used methods of producing micropores in ﬁne coated ﬁlm includes wet or thermo-coagulation, foam coatingetc.,wherepolymericmoleculesorientedasdesired to form channels and orientation depends on process conditionsasshowninFigure5.Polyurethanepasteprepared bydissolvingindimethylformamide(DMF)andcoatedon textilesubstrate.TheDMFismiscibleinwater.Whencoated

Thermocoagulationperformance.

Themembranecanbelaminatedtoundersideofouterlayer, though this effect on handle of garment, it exhibits good water and wind resistance (a); right side of interlining as insert, in this assembly outer layer handle is unaltered and thermal insulation can be improved by proper selection of interlining (b); lamination to inner fabric, this flexibility to use functional outer layer (c); and sandwiched membrane between outer and inner layer as three-layered assembly providesstiffmaterial(d).

Figure 4 - Choice of inserting membrane in clothing assembly

Figure 3 - Schematic representation of moisture diﬀusion through hydrophilic membrane [1]

Figure 5 - Schematic representation of moisture transfer through porous coating (CurtesySagePublication)[1]

is another interesting method used to developmicroporosityincoatedﬁlm.15–20%PUsolution is prepared using solvent mixture of methyl ethyl ketone, tolueneandnonsolventwater Coatedsubstrateissubjected to heat treatment where low boiling solvent evaporates and leading to formation of precipitation of PU in nonsolvent. Further porosity is developed when remaining portion of solventandnonsolventgetevaporatefromcoatedﬁlm.

substrate is either conditioned in humid atmospheric chamberorimmersedinwaterbathforcoagulation;theDMF in the coated paste get diluted and polyurethane get precipitated.Two-waymasstransferwherewaterentersand DMFcomesoutfromcoatedﬁlmhelpsforchannelling.The rate of mass transfer is controlled by gradual increase in waterconcentrationinDMF–watermixtureincoagulating bath.Furthercoatedmaterialiswashedthoroughlyanddried. Thetechnoeconomicalproblemencompassinguseofcostly solventanditsrecoveryrestricteditscommercialuse.

Hydrophilic coating exhibit same moisture vapour transportation mechanism as hydrophilic membrane [13]. However,thedifferencebetweenhydrophilicandmicropore lies in the mechanism of vapour transportation. Micropore filmhastinyholesorchannelsthroughwhichwatervapours get escape from microclimate between skin and clothing to atmosphere. In case of hydrophilic films, because of increasing moisture vapour pressure in microclimate, moisture adsorb on hydrophilic site in polymeric film and slowlydiffuseinthefilmstepbystepalongthehydrophilic functionalgroupsinpolymerchainsegment.Onceitreaches to other side of film, it gets desorbed and escape to

Gatmosphere.enerally,polyurethane

based coating containing soft segmentprovidethespacetowatervapourtodiffuseinside [7]. The hydrophilic sites based on polyvinyl alcohol and polyethylene oxide are introduced in PU coating base as blockcopolymer Hydrophiliccomponentswellsinpresence of excess moisture and reduces durability or abrasion resistance, therefore, the balance between hydrophobic and hydrophilic segments is optimised to performance in terms of moisture vapour transmission, flexibility, durability, resistancetoabrasionanddry-cleaningsolvent.Polyacrylicacid based coating material also exhibit moisture transportation through adsorption, diffusion and desorption mechanism. To achieve mechanical strength, crosslinking agents are added in coating formulations. The length of cross-linkingagentanditsamountincoatingformulationare the factors influencing vapour permeability, swelling and mechanicalstrength.

The 'Stomatex' trade name for comfortable clothing and footwear is based on function of leaf stomata which opens and release moisture when required depending environmental conditions. The closed cell neoprene foam with stomata like aperture at apex helps to release moisture whenproducedathigherrateandreturntopassivestatewhen userisinrest.Theevolutioninbiologicalspeciesfollowthe ruleof'survivaloftheﬁttest'andunderstandingmoreabout naturalphenomenoncanleadtonewresearchavenuesinthe ﬁeldofsmartmaterials.

Understanding the phenomenon occur in nature and modifyingthemtoachieveonartificialproductinnamedas biomimetics.Thetrademark'Lotuseffect'isbasedonsuper hydrophobicity. the incorporation of roughness and repositinghydrophobicparticleslikelotusleafisthebasisof the achievement. the contact angle increases and spherical dropletrollsoffwhenleaftiltsatsmallangle(Figure6).The hydrophobic material used was carbon fluorine based nano reactants[11].

penetratewhereascomparativelysmallermoleculesofwater vapourgetdiﬀusedthroughthem.

5.3Hydrophiliccoating

Figure 6 - A water drop on a rough lotus leaf surface: (a) the contact angle, (b) the roll-oﬀ angle, [11] (Curtesy- NISCAIR)

It reported that benzotriozol derivative improves UV resistivity and fluorocarbon resin type compound improves waterrepellenceofhighpre-formingmaterial[19].Theuse of PVA along with PPAc cross-linker showed moisture vapour transmission through coated film is due to diffusion mechanism and coating film has no micropores [20]. This material exhibit resistance to hydrostatic water head at 1400mm water head and showed 2165g/m2day vapour

6. Developmentinbreathablecoatingmaterial

5.4 Smartbreathablebiomimetic

Aclass of material- polyurethanemade remarkablemarket growth as coating base owing to its versatile properties and two-phasemorphology[12,13&14].Polyurethaneisscuff resistance, possess flexing endurance and is permeable to moisture vapour Preparation of water bourn polyurethane using as amphiphilic diol for breathable waterproof textile coating has elaborated [15]. Upon introduction of PTMEG, swelling in water as well as mechanical properties found increased. When PU based coating along with silica in aerogel form was applied, it was resulted into improved breathability, resistance to chemical and water penetration [16]. Further it was reported that the adhesion between and cotton and PU coated film was found increased against abrasion As amount of aerogel silica particles were increased, the water repellence as well as water vapour transmission properties also improved considerably. Wide range of PU based membrane and its results were reviewed [14]alongwiththedevelopments.

Aproofbreathablefabricdevelopedonbasisofelectrospun nanofibersandevaluatedforitsperformance[17].Different levelofbreathabilityandbarrierperformancewereachieved byvaryinglayers,webdensityorlayeredstructureontextile substrate This material exhibited the higher level of resistivity of water penetration compared to densely woven fabric and comparatively more water vapour permeability than coated or laminated material. Proper selection of base electro spun material, layer structure and textile substrate havepotentialtobeadoptedinwaterproofbreathablefabric for various end application Another researcher [18] developed electro spun nano fibres web with finer fibres, smallerporesize,higherporositymadeoutofpolyurethane, fluorinated polyurethane, alkyl silane functionalised graphene.Furtherhehasdevelopedahot-presstechniquefor adhesion of this material with textile substrate. The report showed that the material exhibits hydrostatic water head of 80kPaandvapourpermeabilityof7.6kg/m2day

Alotofworkhasbeencarriedouttoachievewaterproofand

A 2 Press Release A 7 Lenzing Fibers India Private Ltd A 3 Rieter India Ltd. A 8 Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. A 4 World Textile Conference A 9 PTA Association A 5 The Bombay Dyeing & Mfg. Co. Ltd. A 10 Wellknown Polyesters Limited DoubleSpread Sanjeevani Kaya Shodhan Sansthan A 11

7.Summary

The Textile Association (India) Membership Fees *Plus 18% GST Sr. No. Type of Membership Membership Fee* A. Corporate Member INR 20,000 B. Patron Member INR 4,600 C. Life Member INR 3,200 D Overseas Member USD 120 E. Lifetime to Patron Member INR 2,000

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[1] AMukhopadhyay,VKMidha,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,37(3),(2008),225

[3] JHKeighley,JournalofCoatedFabrics,15(1985),89

[6] VTBartelsinimprovingcomfortinclothing,editedbyGuowenSong(WoodheadPublishingLtd.)2011,385

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Freecultr

Cover 4 ITMA 2023 A 1 Digitalization A 6 Rieter India

[8] SKanjana,GNalankilli,Journaloftextilesandappareltechnologyandmanagement,10(3),2018,1 [9] AMukhopadhyayandVKMidha,Journalofindustrialtextiles,38(1),17 [10]MicVanRoey,JournalofCoatedFabrics,21(1991)20 [11] MLGurajni,IJFTR,31(2006)187 [12]JGillibrand,J.CoatedFabrics,3(1974),153 [13]GRLomax,JournalofMaterialsChemistry,17(2007)2775 [14]GRLomax,JournalofCoatedFabrics,15(1985)115 [15]QingBoMengetal,ProgressinOrganicCoating,66(2009)382 [16]MARahmanBhuiyanetal,ProgressinOrganicCoating,131(2019)100 [17]BoramYoonandSeungsinLee,FibersandPolymers,12(2011)57 [18]ChunhuiLiuetal,Polymers12(2020)836 [19]PDe,etal,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,34(4)(2005)209 [20]MPalanikumaran,etal,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,38(2)(2008)151 [21]NSSave,etal,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,34(3)(2005)139 [22]NSSave,etal,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,32(2)(2002)119

A 12

breathablefabricforvariousextremeweatheringconditions and also to achieve comfort in work wear Mechanical and chemicalmeansweredevelopedforwaterproofnessaswell asbreathability.However,thereisstilltremendousscopefor improvementintermsofdevelopmentofsuitablemembrane or coating material. Diﬀerent applications, such as highaltitude clothing, medical application, sport wear and work wear;requireddiﬀerentdesiredandessentialpropertiesand sincelongtheyremainedtopicofresearchinterest.

Reliance Textiles Solutions Ltd. Industries Ltd. Ltd. (Suessen)

[2] DavidAHolmes,inHandbookoftechnicaltextile,editedbyARHorrocksandSCAnand,(WoodheadpublishingLtd.)2000,282

transmission.Themodiﬁcationinbasecoatingpolymer[21, 22] for development of temperature sensitive poly (n-tertbutylacrylamide-ran-acrylamide27:73)andiscoatingalong with BTCA. Below 15°C it swells more than 800% while above 40°C swelling reduced to 50%, the deswelling took place faster The moisture vapour transmission of such coatedmaterialwasincreasefrom58to94%from15to45°C andsuggestedtoincorporatesuchsmartmaterialinchanging environmentaltemperatureforsuitableapplication.

References:

[4] JSParajia,inEnergyConservationintextileProcess,editedbyM.L.GulrajaniandSanjayGupta,(OmegaScientiﬁcpublishers,New Delhi)1995,85

[7] HikmetZiyaÖzek,inWaterproofandWaterRepellentTextilesandClothing,editedbyJohnWilliams,(TheTextileInstitute,Elsevier Ltd.)2018,25

Cover 2 Bhilosa

[5] DavidAHolmes,JournalofIndustrialTextiles,29(4)2000,306

Industries Ltd. Cover 1 Trutzschler India Cover 3 Saurer

E-mail:drmsparmar@nitratextile.org,msprmr@yahoo.com

*CorrespondingAuthor: Prof.(Dr.)M..S.Parmar

2Dayalbagh Educational Institute (Deemed University) Dayalbagh, Agra

DevelopmentofStabandImpactResistanceTesterforBodyProtector

2.MaterialsandMethods

Abstract: To tackle unruly crowds, the police and paramilitary forces use body protectors to protect them from injuries due to attacks of stone pelting, lathi, and stabbing. Therefore, it is an essential requirement to check the quality of body protectors for stab andimpactresistanceproperties.Togetfirst-handinformationregardingactualrequirementsofqualityofbodyprotectors, in the first part of the study, a survey was conducted among the 200 soldiers of Rapid Action Forces. One of the important findings of the survey was that 41% of soldiers informed that the present body protector is not suitable to protect them from sharp objects, stones, lathi, bottles, and petrol bombs.As there is no instrument available to test stab and impact properties of body protectors, they are not testing these qualities scientifically In the second part of the study, an indigenous stab and impactresistancetesterhasbeendeveloped.Theinstrumentiscapabletoteststabandimpactpropertiesatdifferentangles of incidences. Body protector samples are tested on the developed tester for stab and impact properties and results of stab resistance at 25J and 65J strike energy levels with an impact angle of incidence of 0o on the test panel are compared and verifiedwiththesamelotofsamplestestedininternationallaboratories.

Citation: M S Parmar, Neha Kapil & Sangita Saini, “Development of Stab and Impact Resistance Tester for Body Protector”, JournaloftheTextileAssociation,83/2(88-95),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

common standard for testing stab and impact propertiesofbodyprotectorsareNIJstandard-0115.00(only for stab resistance) [16] andVPAM KDIW2004 standards. Out of theseVPAM KDIW2004 Edition, 2011 [17] is now added in the MHA specs no L-VII-08/2015-19-Prov DA 5 (Part 1) dated 27/09/2019 [18] for body protector. In India, there is no instrument available to test the stab and impact resistance characteristics of the body protector as per this standard.Fortestingtheseproperties,samplesneedtosend abroad. This process is very costly and required a long durationtogetresults.Consideringallthesefactsinmindand a suggestion from Rapid Action Force, an indigenous instrument is developed to test stab and impact both properties.Theresultsoftheinstrumentwerealsocompared with the results of the international laboratory for stab and impactproperties.

1. Introduction

Thestudyisdividedintotwoparts.Intheﬁrstpart,asurveyis conducted among the soldiers of Rapid Action Forces to understand their requirements. In the second part, the instrument was developed and its performance was evaluated by testing body protector samples for stab and impactresistanceproperties.

Keywords:Bodyprotector,impactresistance,knife, plasticine,stabresistance

Paramilitaryforcesandstatepolicehavethedutytocontrol andregulatethecrowdsininternalareasofthecountry The violentcrowdconvertstheprotestandagitationsintoafierce battlefieldwithflyingsharpprojectilesandhurlingstonesat the security forces.The risk of a protest turning violent has increased in recent times, this has resulted in injuring and killing of security personnel. Earlier studies [1-6] on the impactofsharptipsandsharp-edgedweaponsonthehuman bodyhaveshownthatmostoftheinjurieswerefoundonthe chest and abdomen. These studies emphasize the need of providing suitable protective gadgets to defense and police personnelwhichcansavechest,abdomen,andpelvisareas. Studieshavealsobeencarriedout[7–15]tousevarioustypes of fabric and structures to develop stab, cut, and impact resistance ensembles. To protect these soldiers from attack byriotersusingstone,projectiles,sticks,Molotovcocktails, knives,oranyothertypeofweaponstheyareprovided,body protector. A full body protector includes Helmet and body protector(antiriotsuit).Abodyprotectorisaprotectivesuit comprising eight parts. An upper bodysuit that guards the neck, shoulders, chest area, and groin is called a chest protector Each hand is covered by an upper arm, forearm, elbowpad,andelbowguard.Thelowerpartisprotectedbya thighguardandshinguardwiththehelpoffasteners.These partsaredetachablefromthecompletesuit.Eachpartofthe full-body protector comprises rigid hard material for the outerlayerforprotectingthelimbsofaweareragainstsharp objects and projectiles and soft paddings to protect them fromanyimpacts.

Presently the performance of the body protector in India is evaluatedbythedefensepersonnelthemselvesbythrowing stonesandbricksfrom45yardsdistance,orbyattackingby lathi(plate)tostimulatetheriotsituations.Theseresultsvary frompersontoperson,astheforceappliedbyanindividual ofthrowingastoneorattackingbylathiisvary Duetothis, there are always chances of a dispute between buyer and sellerThemost

Director(Labs),NorthernIndiaTextileResearchAssociation, Sector-23,RajNagar,Ghaziabad–201002

1 1 2M S Parmar *, Neha Kapil & Sangita Saini

ArticleReceived:02-09-2021,Revised:16-03-2022,Accepted:23-04-2022

1 Northern India Textile Research Association, Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad, India

As per VPAM KDIW 2004 standard, the impact resistance testisconductedbydroppingablockfromthedeﬁniteheight onthebodyprotector.Inthistestinsteadofaknife,ablockis used The instrument remains the same There are 5 classiﬁcationsinthistest.TheseareW1(15J strikeenergy), W2(25J strikeenergy),W3(40J strikeenergy),W4(65J strike energy), and W5(100 J strike energy). The average deformationdepth(mm)duetothestrikeoftheblockonthe bodyprotectorismeasured.

Body protector samples were collected from paramilitary forces as well as manufacturers of body protectors. These samplesweretestedforstabandimpactresistanceproperties usingthedevelopedtesterasperVPAMKDIW2004Edition 2011standard.

Theveriﬁcationoftheinstrumentwascarriedoutbytesting thesamelotofbodyprotectorsamplesforstabresistancetest keeping same energy level at H.P. White Laboratory, lnc., USA,aninternationallaboratory

Figure 1 - Marking of sample

E=m.g.h--------(i)

g:Gravitationalforce

2.3.2 Impactresistancetest

3.1Fieldsurveytounderstandtheproblemofsoldiers

2.2 Developmentofstabandimpacttester

2.1FieldSurvey

As antiriot body protectors are being used mainly by paramilitaryandstate&unionterritorypolice,itwasthought to carry out this survey among the soldiers who are mostly engaged in riots control. There is a special force named 'RapidActionForce(RAF)'-aspecializedwingoftheCRPF (CentralReservePoliceForce).Itsmainactivitiesaretodeal with riot and crowd control situations. There are many battalions of this force located in different areas in India. Keeping in mind their activity, the survey is carried out amongthesoldiersof RAF.Threelocationswereidentified. ThesewereWazirabadinDelhi,Meerut,andBulandshahar The findings of this survey are based on the Wazirabad locationonly.Atotal of 200 soldiers were surveyed using a well-defined questionnaire. Besides the questionnaire, the one-to-one interview was also conducted with individual solider to understand their actual problem. This survey includes i) Types of activities ii) Fit and Comfort, iii) Risk facedduringriots,iv)Levelofprotection[19].Asthemain aim of this work is to develop a stab and impact tester, the findingsofonlyriskfacedduringriotswillbeutilizedinthis study

For the development of stab and impact tester for body protector testing, the guideline was taken from VPAM KDIW 2004 Edition 2011 standard. This tester has the provision to test the stab resistance property of the body protector by using a knife and impact resistance by a block (likestone)atadiﬀerentlevelofenergy

also noted that all the respondents wear full-body protectorincludinghelmetsandcarrypolycarbonateshields

Table 1- Impact energy vs falling height Weightofdrop mass (kg) Energylevels (J) Falling(m)height

2.5 15 0.61 25 1.02 40 1.63 5.0 65 1.33 80 1.63 100 2.04

Tocalculatetheimpactenergyequation-(i)isused:

3. ResultsandDiscussion

AsperVPAMKDIW2004Edition2004,thestabresistance test is classiﬁed into four classes.These are K1 (25 J strike energy),K2(40Jstrikeenergy),K3(65Jstrikeenergy),and K4(80Jstrikeenergy).Inthisstudy,testingiscarriedoutas per class K1 and K3 using a 0o of incidence angle. The energylevelcanbechangedbychangingtheheightofdrop massfromthestrikingsurfaceofthesamplebykeepingthe weightofdropmassassemblyconstantasshowninTable1. The test is repeated on three specimens of the same lot of samples on the marked position as shown in Fig. 1. The average penetration depth (mm) due to penetration of the knifethroughthebodyprotectorismeasured.

h: Falling height (distance between the tip of the blade and thesurfaceofplasticine)

Duringthesurveyofthesoldiersoftheparamilitaryforce,it wasobservedthattheagesofthesoldierswerevaryingfrom 20yearsto50years.A27% ofsoldierswerefallinginthe ﬁrstagegroupfrom20to30yearsand 30%ofsoldierswere in the age group of 41-50 years. 43% of the maximum number of soldiers was in the age group of 31-40 years. Among the 200 soldiers, 34% were females and 66% were Itmales.was

E:Strikingenergy, m:Dropmass(massoftheknifewiththeholderinkg)

2.3 Collectionandtestingofsamples

2.3.1Stabresistancetest

Figure 2 - Various threats faced by respondents

Figure 5 - Dimension (in mm) and picture of steel ball

Duringthesurvey, 41%ofsoldiershadtoldthattheanti-riot suitisnotcapabletogiveprotectiontothewearerfromsharp objects,stones,lathi,bottles,andpetrolbombs.Inthecaseof sharpobjects,40to41respondentsfeltthattheanti-riotbody protectorgivesnoprotection.Oneofthefactors,whichwas observed with this survey was that although procurement was carried out as per the guideline of MHA specs No. L.VII.54/2010-12-Prov-R,dated13,Nov 2013,therewasa gap in the specification as no standard tests are provided to test stab and impact properties of the body protector The specification was revised as per the suggestions of NITRA. The new specification MHA specs no L-VII-08/2015-19ProvDA5(Part1)dated27/09/2019isprovidedwithtesting ofstabandimpactresistanceofbodyprotector Asstaband impact resistance test facilities are not available in India, it was suggested by the Inspector General of Rapid Action Force(RAF)toNITRAtodevelopthisinstrument.Bythis facility, the performance of body protectors can be further improvedtosavesoldiersfrominjuriesduetostabbingand stone-throwingduringriots.

AstabresistancetestwascarriedoutwithastandardKnife. Thebladeofthisknifehasspeciﬁcdimensionsandsharpness asshowninFig.6.Thecompleteassemblyoftheknifewith dropmassisalsoshowninFig.6.

Asteel ball (diameter 63.5 ± 0.05 mm, mass 1039 ± 5 g) is alsofabricated(Fig.5)totesttheplasticityoftheplasticine beforestartingtestingthebodyprotector.Thisballisallowed tofallontheplanarandhorizontalsurfaceofplasticineata heightof2000±5mm.Thistestisrepeated5timesandthe deformationdepthofplasticineismeasured.Ifallthe5tests showthedeformationdepth20±2mm,theplasticityofthe plasticineisaccepted.

Thetesterincludesthreemainpartsnamelytop,middle,and bottom as shown in Fig. 3. The top part housed a motor assembly to pull the stab and impact assembly from the bottomtoaﬁxedheight.Themiddlepartisprovidedwitha cylindricaltransparentacrylicdroptubetoguidethetesttool (drop mass which consists of an engineering knife blade or blocktheclampingdevicetoholdtheknifeblade,orspikeor block).This part also has a control panel to control various functions of the instrument through the motor The bottom part consists of a box (350 mm x 400 mm x 150 mm) ﬁlled withplasticineclayalsocalledbackingmaterial.Plasticineis non-hardeningmodelingclay Thisbackingmaterialisused to determine the deformation depth due to block and the penetration depth due to the strike of the knife on the body

protector Theangleofincidencecanbeadjustedbythegear system provided with the box (Fig. 4) given in the bottom partofthetester

3.2 Developmentofstabandimpactresistancetester

and lathi while handling the crowd. During riots, soldiers face many identiﬁed and unidentiﬁed threats. The survey showed that 100 % of respondents faced threats from sharp objects and stones in almost all riot situations as shown in Fig.2.Otherthanstonesandsharpobjectspetrolbombsand glass bottles are equally dangerous 90% of respondents reportedpetrolbombsand93%bottles.89%ofrespondents saidthatlathiorlathitypematerialwasusedbytheriotersin somesituations.

Figure 3 - Stab and impact test assembly

Figure 4 - Box provided with gear system to adjust the angle of incidence

Average penetration depth,mm 49.0

Standarddeviation 3.5

Testspecimensofbodyprotectorwereconditionedfor12hrs at 20 ± 2 ºC and 65 ± 5% relative humidity before testing. Testswereperformedonthefrontandbacksidesofthechest protectorsofthebodyprotector.

25 49 45 52

Figure 6 - Knife used for stab test

Figure 8 -Picture of developed stab and Impact tester

Penetrationdepth,mm

Testcarriedoutinthe Internationallaboratory 62 62 47

FromTable2,itisclearthattheaveragepenetrationdepthis around48.7mmand58.7mmforthesampletestedusingthe developed tester at 25 J and 65 J respectively.The same lot samples when tested at the international laboratory, the

Average penetration depth,mm 57.0

Standarddeviation 1.527

3.3.1Stabresistancetest

Average penetration depth,mm 58.7

Acompletepictureofthedevelopedstabandimpacttesteris showninFig.8

Average penetration depth,mm 48.7

Standarddeviation 8.66

Theimpactresistancetestwascarriedoutwithablock.The block used in this test has speciﬁc dimensions as shown in Fig.7.Thecompleteassemblyoftheblockwithdropmassis alsogiveninFig.7.

Testcarriedoutinthe Internationallaboratory 45 49 53

Dimensionsinmmformakingblock Blockwithdropmass

Penetrationdepth,mm

Testresults(no. ofSpecimens)

Testcarriedouton developedStaband Impactresistancetester 65 59 57 60

Testcarriedouton developedStaband Impactresistancetester

To check the workability of the fabricated stab and impact tester, 3 specimens of one sample of body protectors were tested at 25 J and 65 J strike energy levels with an impact angleofincidenceof0oonthetestpanel(theanglebetween striking knife and horizontal panel is 90o). Samples of the same lot were also sent to the International laboratory The resultsofthesesamplesaregiveninTable2.

3.3Testingofbodyprotectorsondevelopedstabandimpact resistancetester

1 2 3

Figure 7 - Block used for impact test

parameterTest (joules)energyStrike

Dimensionsinmmformakingknife Knifewithdropmass

Table 2 - Stab resistance test at 00 incidence angle on a test panel

3.3.2Impactresistancetest

[7] XMiao,GJiang,XKong,SZhao(2014)ExperimentalInvestigationontheStabResistanceofWarpKnittedFabrics.Fibres &textilesinEasternEurope5:65-70

[15]IHorsfall,SMPollitt,JABelkandCAngood(1995),Impactperformancetestingofstab-resistantarmourmaterial,In:WilliamsJG, PavanA(eds.)ImpactandDynamicFractureofpolymersandComposites,ESIS19,pp.433-442

[4] A.Bleetman,Safetystandardsforbodyarmour,PoliceFederationofEngland andWales,PublicOrderWorkingGroup,(1996)

[5] A.Bleetman,Determiningtheprotectiverequirementsofstab-resistantbodyarmour:Thevulnerabilityoftheinternalorgansto penetratingedgedweapons,Proc.SharpWeaponsArmourTechnologySymposium,CranﬁeldUniversity,Shrivenham,(1999)

[10]MengSong,ChenZhang,ZhenYuSong,NanYan,SiZhuWu,StudyontheStructureandPropertiesofNovelImpactResistance FabricComposites, AppliedMechanicsandMaterials,Vols.182-183,2012, pp.153-157

4. Acknowledgment

resultsofpenetrationdepthwere49mmand57mmat25J and 65 J respectively. The standard deviations of the test results are also given in Table 2. The value of standard deviation on the lower side indicates the reproducibility of results.Fig.10indicatesthestabtestperformedonthebody protector

[13]M.J.Decker,C.J.Halbach,C.H.NamandE.D.Wetzel,Stabresistanceofshearthickeningﬂuid(STF)-treatedfabrics,Composite ScienceandTechnology67(3),2007,p565-578

TDeformationdepth,mmestresults(no.ofSpecimens)123

[6] TAlpyildiz,MRochery,AKurbak,FlambardX(2011)Stabandcutresistanceofknittedstructures:acomparativestudy Textile ResearchJournal81:205-214

[3] L.J.Fligelstone,R.C.Johnson,M.H.WheelerandJ.R.Salaman,AnauditofstabwoundsinCardiﬀ,J.R.Coll.Surg.Edinb,40, 147-170,(1995)

Table 3 - Impact resistance test at 00 incidence angle on a test panel

Testcarriedout on developedStaband Impactresistance tester 100 9 7.5 8.2 Averagedeformation depth,mm 8.2 Standarddeviation 0.75

Figure 10 - Performing stab test on body protector

For this study,W5 class is used to analyze the impact test. The impact resistance properties of 3 specimens of one sampleweretestedonadevelopedstabandimpacttesterat 100Jstrikeenergylevel.ResultsareshowninTable3.From the table, it is clear that there is the reproducibility of test results.Thestandarddeviationamongthetestrestresultsof specimenswasfoundtobe0.75whenspecimensweretested onadevelopedstab&impacttester

[11]GözdeErtekinandArzuMarmaralı,Impactresistancebehaviourofsiliconecoatedwarpknittedspacerfabricsusedforprotective clothing,TheJournalofTextileInstitute,Volume108,Issue12,2017,p 2123-2131

(joules)energyStrike

[2] L.A.MurrayandM.A.Green,Hiltsandknivesasurveyoftenyearsoffatalstabbings,Med.Sci.Law,27,3,182-184,(1987)

[12]DimkoDimeski,VinetaSrebrenkoska,NatasaMirceska,BallisticImpactResistanceMechanismofWovenFabricsandtheir Composites,InternationalJournalofEngineeringResearch&Technology(IJERT),Vol.4Issue12,December-2015,pp107-111

[1] D.A.Rouse,Patternsofstabwounds:asix-yearstudy,Med.Sci.Law,34,1,67-71,(1994)

[9] YvesTermonia,ImpactResistanceofWovenFabrics,TextileResearchJournal,Vol74,Issue8,2004 page(s):723-729

[17]StabandImpactResistance–Requirments,classiﬁcation,andtestprocedures,VPAMKDIW2004Edition,2011 [18]SpeciﬁcationofFullBodyProtector,MHAspecsnoL-VII-08/2015-19-ProvDA5(Part1)dated27/09/2019

4. Conclusion

[16]StabResistanceofPersonalBodyArmor,NIJStandard-0115.00

Anindigenouscost-eﬀectivetesterisdevelopedtodetermine stabandimpactresistancepropertiesofbodyprotectors.The testeriscapabletoprovideusefulinformationaboutthestab andimpactresistancepropertiesofthebodyprotectorstothe manufacturing industry as well as procurement agencies. Before developing this tester, a preliminary survey was carriedoutamongsttheRapidActionForcessoldierstoget their actual requirements related to the safety aspects. The resultsobtainedfromthisdevelopedtesterwerealsoveriﬁed withtheresultsofthesamelotsamplestestedininternational laboratories.

[19]NehaKapil,M.S.ParmarandSangitaSaini,“Studytoanalyzeandimproveanti-riotbodyprotector”,Man-MadeTextilesinIndia, Vol.XLIXNo.1,January2021,page7-11

[8] ElMessiryM(2014)InvestigationofPunctureBehaviourofFlexibleSilkFabricCompositesforSoftBodyArmour.Fibres &textilesinEasternEurope5:71-76

References

AuthorsarethankfultoDIGP(Prov&Accts)ofRapidActionForceforpermittingsurveytheirsoldiers.

[14]XGong,YXu,WZhu,SXuan,WJiang,etal.(2014)Studyoftheknifestabandpuncture-resistantperformanceforshear thickeningﬂuidenhancedfabric.JournalofCompositeMaterials48:641-657

startedimplementingdifferentsocialmediaplatformstogive services to existing customer and attracting new customers forenhancingtheirmarketshare.Socialnetworkingsiteshas majorroletomakeonlinemarketingbusinessSuccessful[4]. Social media network also helps rural Women to develop their Apparel and textile business [5]. Social media offers differentbenefitstocompaniesbyincreasingthepopularity oftheirbrandandprovidingword-of-mouthcommunication tohelpinboostingthesales.Socialmediahelpstosharethe dataofbusinessandhelpstobuildthecustomersupport[6].

Promotion and marketing in textile industry is very important to attract the customers and for success of the company To attract customers, social media marketing and its platforms like twitter, you tube, face book etc. are playing a major role. These type of social media platforms helps in grabbing the attention of the customer in textile and fashion industry The present study helps to determine how the social media marketing impacting the customer trust in purchasing the products.

* Corresponding Author: Dr. B. Senthil Kumar, Associate Professor, School of Management, Hindustan Institute of Technology and Science, Padur, Chennai-603103 E-mail: bsenthilk@hindustanuniv.ac.in

Primary data was collected from 150 participants from different regions of India. The research work reveals that social media marketing had an impact on customer trust, which helps in purchasing the products. Hence, enhancing the quality of social media platform and websites will increase the customer trust, which finally influences the customer purchase intention.

Abstract:

3.2Population&SampleSize

2.1 SocialMediaMarketing

2.2 CustomerTrust

2. LiteratureReview

In all the e-business transactions, customer trust is very important [8] and trust is an important and essential in ecommercebusiness[9].Trustisbasedondiﬀerentdimension likerecognition,honesty,competenceandcapacity[10].The two important dimensions of trust in the e-business are integrity and compassion [11]. Always trust relies on the business reputation and trustworthy of the transaction and benevolence stands on relationship between the buyer and theseller[12].Inonlinecommunity,customertrusthelpsto interact with individuals and attach to customer present network. Thus trust has an important role in customer purchaseintentionandbuyingbehavior[13,14].

1.Introduction

Citation: P Prasanthi & B. Senthil Kumar - “Impact of Social Media Marketing on Customer Trust in Indian Textile Industry”, JournaloftheTextile Association,83/2(93-96),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

TextileSectorinIndiaisplayinganimportantroleinIndian economy. Textile Industry is contributed nearly 7% output outofthetotalIndustryoutputinIndiaduring20218-19and also contributed 2% to GDP, around 12% to the export earnings of India.Textile Sector is one of the sectors which were affected worst during Covid-19. But post-covid19 period has provided a great opportunity for the traders who are doing their textile business through online and through different social media marketing. Clothes and apparels are thebasicneedforanyhumanexistence,thusevenduringthe period of lockdown, because of social media marketing, online sales of textiles has been enhanced. Social media marketing with different price discounts has given an opportunityforbuyerstopurchasetheapparelsonline.Social media is the best to boost the sales in apparel industry The social media network helps to reach large audience with a singlepost.Socialmediamarketingfostersinteractionswith customers, which increases awareness about the brand and products and actively involving in purchasing the apparels. Thusthepresentresearchobjectiveistoidentifytheeffectof socialmediamarketingonthecustomertrust.

H1:Thereisasigniﬁcantimpactofsocialmediamarketing onCustomerTrust.

PrimaryDatawascollectedfromtheparticipantsofdiﬀerent states of India. 200 questionnaires were distributed among

Keywords:CustomerTrust,PurchaseIntention,SocialMediaMarketing,TextileIndustry

Social network websites and services make public to establish and create their personal web pages and helps to connect with their friends to exchange information [1]. Analyticsofsocialmediaprovidecompetitiveadvantagesto business and also helps in building competitive strategies, creatingcustomertrustandalsoboostpurchaseintentionof consumer[2].E-CommercebusinesshasbecomeCustomer driven by using social media [3]. Many Smart companies

ImpactofSocialMediaMarketingonCustomerTrust inIndianTextileIndustry

P. Prasanthi & B. Senthil Kumar* School of Management, Hindustan Institute of Technology and Science, Padur, Chennai

3.1Hypothesis

Social media networks created a new platform, where anyonecaneasilyexchangetheirknowledgeandexperience aboutproductswithotherpersons[7].

Present work was carried through a questionnaires and the samewasdistributedtogetrespondsforanalyzingthedata.

ArticleReceived:22-01-2022,Revised:04-07-2022,Accepted:19-03-2022

3.ResearchMethodology

7.LimitationsandFutureResearch

Income 20,000/ to30,000/ to

Note:**P<0.01(signiﬁcantatP<0.01)

31to Above4040 10.827.433.628.2

VResearchariables CorrCoefficientofelation(R) Coefficient determinationof(Rsquare) valueF Significance

3.4Reliability

SocialMarketingMedia 2.64 1.0

FemaleMale 35.864.2 Age 21

50,000/ Above50,000/ 22.032.324.521.2 Variables No. of Items Cronbach’s Alpha SocialMedia Marketing 8 0.75 CustomerTrust 5 0.82

Table.3depictsthemeanandstandarddeviationofvariables andTable.4depictsthecorrelationandsignificanceimpactof social media marketing on customer trust. Present study identified the value of (F=121.99) at (P=0.000) significant level, which is less than 0.01. Correlation Coefficient (R=0.672),showspositiverelationshipbetweensocialmedia marketing and customer trust and coefficient of determination(Rsquare=0.452),whichshowsa45%change inthedependantvariable(Customertrust)isbeingexplained by the independent variable (Social media marketing) Henceitshowsasignificantpositiveimpactofsocialmedia marketingoncustomertrust.Thus,H1isaccepted.

Variable

Current research used “5-point Likert Scale, ranging from 1=strongly disagree to 5=strongly agree”. to measure the Independent variable, “Social Media marketing”, 8 items questionnaire was adopted from [15] and to measure the dependentvariable,“CustomerTrust”,5itemquestionnaire wasadoptedfrom[16].

DependentVariable:Customertrust

5.PracticalImplications

StatusMarital

Totestthereliability,“cronbach'salpha”isused.Reliability ofvariablesshouldbemorethan0.7[17].Boththevariables i e , Social Media Marketing and Customer trust have internal consistency more than 7 0 and hence reliable Table.2showsthereliability(cronbachalpha)ofvariables.

Table 4 - Correlation & Signiﬁcance between social media marketing & customer trust

4.DataAnalysis&Results

6.Conclusion

Social Media act as bridge between seller and buyer. Companies have to choose diﬀerent platforms of social media which has more sociability and on which customer will rely more and spend time. The analytical result of the present study reveals that social media marketing has a positiveimpactonthecustomertrust,whichhelpstoenhance thepurchaseintentionofthecustomerandthusincreasesthe salesofcompany Hence,thepurchasesfromthatparticular company product are high when customers have trust on companies.

PresentResearchworkhascertainlimitationsinadditionto contributions.Theﬁrstisthesamplesizefortheresearchis limitedto150andinfuturetheresearchersmayincreasetheir samplesizeforbetterresults.Secondlimitationisthecurrent study focus on only two variables i e , Social media marketing and customer trust, but future work can consider other research variables like consumer buying behavior, brand trust etc. ﬁnally, present research is limited to textile sector in India and in future research may carried out in another sectors which helps to understand better about the importanceofsocialmediaoncustomertrust.

UnmarriedMarried 41.458.6

participantsand150usablequestionnaireswerereceivedfor further analysis of data. Table.1 Depicts the Demographic proﬁleofrespondents.

Table 2 - Cronbach's alpha of variables

IndependentVariable(Predictor):Socialmediamarketing

Table 1 - Demographic Proﬁle

Socialmediamarketingisaninnovativetoolwhichchanges the pattern of business. Sellers used various social media platforms to communicate with their customers. Purchase intention of the customer always relies on how customer trusts the seller through social media marketing. Present studyintegratessocialmediaandtrustandproposedamodel toidentifytheeffectofsocialmediamarketingoncustomer trust and the results revealed that there is a statistical significant relationship between two variables and social mediamarketingisinfluencingthecustomertrust.Thusthe social network sites efficiency increases the trust of customer. Social media is therefore influencing customer trustandthisfurtherhelpstoenhancethepurchaseintention ofcustomer.

31,000/

Customertrust 2.74 0.78

3.3 MeasuringInstruments

Category Percentage

CustomerTrust 0.672** 0.452 121.99 0.000

Below

Research Variables Mean Standard Deviation

21,000/

Gender to25 26to30

References

[3] Chiu,C.-M.,Hsu,M.-H.,Lai,H.,&Chang,C.-M,“Re-examiningtheinﬂuenceoftrustononlinerepeatpurchaseintention: Themoderatingroleofhabitanditsantecedents”,DecisionSupportSystems,53/4(835–845),(Nov'2012)

[5] Keh, H. T., & Xie, Y, “Corporate reputation and customer behavioral intentions: The roles of trust, identiﬁcation and commitment”,IndustrialMarketingManagement,38/7(732–742),(Oct'2009)

[12]Ceglarz,A.,Beneking,A.,Ellenbeck,S.,&Battaglini,A,“Understandingtheroleoftrustinpowerlinedevelopmentprojects: EvidencefromtwocasestudiesinNorway”,EnergyPolicy,110/C(570–580),Aug'2017)

[16] Naylor, R. W., Lamberton, C. P., & West, P. M, “Beyond the “like” button: The impact of mere virtual presence on brand evaluationsandpurchaseintentionsinsocialmediasettings”,JournalofMarketing,76/6(105–120),(Nov'2012)

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[15] Kim,A.J., Ko, E, “Do social media marketing activities enhance customer equity?An empirical study of luxury fashion brand”,JournalofBusinessResearch,65/10(1480-1486),(2012)

[1] Sin,S.S.,Nor,K.M.,&Al-Agaga,A.M,“FactorsAﬀectingMalaysianyoungconsumers'onlinepurchaseintentioninsocial mediawebsites”,ProcediaSocialandBehavioralSciences,40(326–333),(Dec'2012)

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Keywords:Antimicrobial,Eco-friendly,Herbs

Materialliquorratio -1:50 Dyesource% -15% Dyesoakingtime -1hour

Dyeextractiontemperature -Atboil Dyetemperature -RoomTemperature pHfordyeingandmordanting -7 Dyeextractionmedium -Aqueousmedium

Dr. P.

P. Dhanapriya* & U. Ratna Department of Textiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women, Coimbatore

Recipe:

Figure 1- Herbs

ArticleReceived:16-03-2022,Revised:21-05-2022,Accepted:22-12-2021

DepartmentDhanapriya,ofTextiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women, Coimbatore – 641 043 E-mail: m.dhanapriya94@gmail.com

2.MaterialsandMethods

The cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cottonyarnswereselectedforthestudy Theselected herbsnamelyCaesalpiniasappan,CassiaAuriculata,Cassia Fistula, Mimosa Pudica and Tinospora Cordifolia were powdered and boiled in distilled water for 1 hour The selected yarns were immersed separately in prepared kasayam/Concoction for absorption of herbs. Then dyed yarns were washed thoroughly with pure water and dried. Myrobalan mordant was used for the study. The selected herbsaregiveninFigure1.

*Corresponding Author:

2.1a.ProcedureforDyeing

EﬀectofAntimicrobialActivityofHerbalTreatedCotton,Bamboo, andTencelSocks

Abstract

Eco-friendly environment plays a key role in the life of human beings to live in a better world with good hygiene and freshness.Theenvironmentalproblemshaveledthetextilemanufacturertoproduceeco-friendlytextiles.CottonistheKing of fibres and it is the most ancient textile fibre. Bamboo fabric is breathable, cool, has fast water absorption and antibacterial properties. It is 100% biodegradable. In the textile market, tencel fabric plays an important position for fashion wear, bed linen and towels. Tencel fabric is an outstanding alternative to cotton. Caesalpinia Sappan, Cassia Auriculata, Cassia Fistula, Mimosa Pudica, and Tinospora Cordifolia were the five herbs used to dye the chosen yarns. Then, dyed yarns were wound into cone and knitted into socks. The dyes extracted from natural sources are non-allergic, non-toxic, eco-friendly and gain significant importance due to environmental awareness. The textile fabrics finished with antimicrobial agents have a great demand due to increase awareness in hygienic lifestyle. The antimicrobial activity of cotton,bamboo,tencel,bamboo/cottonandtencel/cottonareshowedgoodresistanceagainstselectedmicrobes.

The necessities of human beings are not only fulfilled with the provision of food, clothing and shelter alone, but it is important for the environment to be clean and liveable through pure, safe air and water (1) Herbal dyes are recognized as biodegradable, they do not cause any health hazards and they can be easily used without much environmental concerns (2). In the textile industry, cotton fibres are widely used for their outstanding properties of hygroscopicity, air permeability, biodegradability and nonstatic electricity (3). Cotton fabric is comfortable, wearable and breathable as it draws heat away from the skin, easily absorbsbodymoistureandevaporatesintheair Thecotton fabric keeps the wearer cool and comfortable in the hot weather(4).Bamboofabricisbreathable,cool,hasfastwater absorption and antibacterial properties (5). Many apparel manufacturersclaimthattextilesmadefrombamboofabric have antimicrobial properties (6). Tencel fibre has the advantages of both natural and synthetic fibres. The tencel fibre is also known as “green fibre” (7). The herbal cloth is organic and totally free from synthetic chemicals and is biodegradable (8). Socks are a vital element which helps to maintaintheoptimalconditionsofwarmthandmoisturefor thefoot(9).Theantimicrobialfinishintextilespreventsthe growthofbacteria,preventsdiseasesandprotectsthehealth of the wearer Herbal antimicrobial finish finds wide prospects in the field of hygienic materials and has great prospectsinmedicaltextiles(10).

Citation: P Dhanapriya & U. Ratna, “Effect ofAntimicrobialActivity of Herbal Treated Cotton, Bamboo, and Tencel Socks”,JournaloftheTextile Association,83/2(96-99),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

1. Introduction

into socks.

2 - Dyed Socks 2.2 2.2.a.AntimicrobialActivityAntibacterialActivity The ﬁnished socks (Cotton, Bamboo, Tencel, Bamboo/CottonandTencel/Cotton)wereanalyzedfortheir antibacterial activity using the standard AATCC - 147 test methods(Parallelstreakmethod). Theresultswereshownin Figure3and4.

2.1 b.Socksknitting

Bamboo/Cottonand

2.2.b. AntifungalActivity

2and

sockswere

yarns were

I. Table I - Particulars for knitting procedure

ﬁnished socks (Cotton, Bamboo,

wereanalyzedfortheir antifungal property using the standard AATCC 30 test method.TheresultswereshowninFigure5and6. S. No ParticularsusedforKnitting Cotton BambooTencel Bamboo/Cotton Tencel/Cotton 1. Count 40s 2. StructureKnitting SingleJersey 3. Machine Sokoknit 4. Wales/inch 26 26 25 25 26 5.Course/inch 40 41 34 37 42 Figure 3 - Antibacterial Activity for Untreated Figure 4 - Antibacterial Activity for treated Figure 5 - Antifungal Activity for Untreated

The dyed cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cotton knitted The knitted shown Figure detailsweregiveninTable

Figure

The Tencel, Tencel/Cotton)

Table 2 - Assessment of Qualitative Antibacterial Activity of Finished Fabric

3.1.b.AntifungalActivity

Theresultsshowedthatcotton,bamboo,andbamboo/cotton demonstrated greater antifungal action against C. albicans thantencelandtencel/cottonwhereastheantifungaleﬃcacy against C. tropicalis demonstrated that bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cottonandtencel/cottontreatedfabricsshowedthe highestzoneofinhibitionwhencomparedtocottonfabrics. for

NoS. Samples

Similarly, the treated fabrics exhibited a zone of inhibition

azoneofinhibitionagainstC.albicansoncotton (64mm),bamboo(63mm),tencel(60mm),bamboo/cotton (65 mm), and tencel/cotton (61 mm). In the same way, the zoneofinhibitionagainstC.tropicaliswascotton(60mm), bamboo (62 mm), and tencel (64 mm), bamboo/cotton (63 mm)andcotton/tencel(65mm).

From the above Table 2 and Figure 7, it is evident that the untreated cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cotton fabric does not possess any antibacterial activity against S. aureus and Micrococcus Sp. All treated fabricshaveaninhibitionzoneagainstS.aureuswithCotton (39 mm), Tencel (38 mm), Bamboo/Cotton (37 mm), Bamboo(35mm),andTencel/Cotton(38mm)(36mm).

3. ResultandDiscussion

The assessment of qualitative antibacterial activity of untreatedandtreatedcotton,bamboo,tencel,bamboo/cotton andtencel/cottonfabricsarepresentedinTable2andFigure 7.

Figure 6 - Antifungal Activity

3.1.a.aAntibacterialActivity

1 Cotton 0 64 0 60 Bamboo 0 63 0 62 Tencel 0 60 0 64 Bamboo / Cotton 65 0 63 Tencel / Cotton 61 0

From Table 3 and Figure 8, it is revealed that the untreated cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cotton fabricshavenoantifungalactivityagainstC.albicansandC.

Zone

againstmicrococcusSpwithtencel(39mm),bamboo/cotton (38 mm), bamboo (37 mm), cotton (36 mm), and tencel/cotton(35mm).Asaresult,itcanbestatedthatherbaltreatedfabricscaninhibitthegrowthofmicrobessuchasS. aureusandMicrococcusSp.

ofInhibition(mm) S.aureus MicrococcusSp Control BeforeWash Control BeforeWash

1 Cotton 39 35 Tencel 38 37

Theretropicalis.was

Untreated NoS. Samples

0*NoAntifungalActivity

C.albicans C.tropicalis Control BeforeWash Control BeforeWash

0*NoAntibacterialActivity

0 39 4 Bamboo/ Cotton 0

Theassessmentofantifungalactivityofuntreatedandtreated cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cotton fabricsanalysisarepresentedinTable3andFigure8.

Figure 7 - Antibacterial Activity

0 38 5 Tencel / Cotton 0 36 0 35

0 36 2 Bamboo 0

0 37 3

Table 3 - Assessment of Qualitative Antifungal Activity of Finished Fabric

ZoneofInhibition(mm)

Figure 8 - Antifungal Activity

3.1.aAssessmentofAntimicrobialActivity

6. NayakLandMishraS,Prospectofbambooasarenewabletextileﬁber,historicaloverview,labeling,controversiesand regulation.FashionandTextiles3(2),1-23,(2016)

4. Conclusion

7. Hasan NB, Begum AR, Islam A, and Parvez M, Tencel Process Optimization in Conventional Cotton Processing MachineriesandaQualityComparisonwithSimilarCottonYarnCount.JTextileSciEng7,302,(2017)

References

9. Martinez NovaA, Felix Marcos-Tejedor, Beatriz Gomez Martin, Raquel Sanchez, Rodrigue, Elena Escamilla Martinez, Bioceramic–ﬁbresockshavemorebeneﬁtsthancotton-madesocksincontrollingbacterialloadandtheincreaseofsweat inrunners.TextileResearchJournal,88(6)696-703,(2017)

10. Jaswal,P.,Preet,A.,Simran,andGoelG.,.AntimicrobialActivityofHerbalTreatedCottonFabric.InternationalResearch JournalofEngineeringandTechnology,4(8),39-43,(2017)fabrics-Atoolforstretchapplicationinsport”,IndianJournal ofFibre&TextileResearch,36/3(300-307),(Sept2011)

provedthattheherbaltreatedsocksreducedbacterialgrowth when compared to untreated socks. The treated socks; namely cotton, bamboo, tencel, bamboo/cotton and tencel/cotton are showed good resistance against selected microbes.Thedevelopedsockswerecoolandcomfortableto wear. It can be recommended for long wear hours for both indoorandoutdoorusageirrespectiveofclimate.Itcanalso besuggestedforpeoplewithsensitiveskinandskinallergies.

4. SuzylawatiIsmailandSyahidaFarhanAzha,CottonCloth:DiversiﬁedApplicationsbeyondFashionandWearableCloth. CurrentTrendsFashionTechnologyTextileEngineering,2(3)555-587,(2018), DOI:10.19080/CTFTTE.2018.02.555587.

5. DeepaliRastogiandSheetalChopra,TextileScience,OrientBlackswan,34,65-66,(2017)

1. TassewAlemayehu,ZenebeshTeklemariam,ApplicationofNaturalDyesonTextile:AReview InternationalJournalof Research–Granthaalayah,2(2)61-68,(2014)

2. JyotiArora,PreranaAgrawalandGuptaGuljan,RainbowofNaturaldyesontextileusingplantsextract:sustainableand eco-friendlyprocess.ScienceResearchPublication,35-47,(2017)

Herbal textiles have medicinal properties which are beneﬁcial for the skin. Plant-based medicines have been in usesincetimeimmemorial.Indiaisarepositoryofmedicinal plants.Theherbaltextiles,orAyurvastra,havebeenusedto maintain good health and help lead a healthy life. This research study was conducted to evaluate the antibacterial activityofherbaltreatedsocksknittedwithcotton,bamboo, bamboo/cotton, tencel and tencel/cotton. The study has

3. BasharM.M.,&KhanM.A.,Anoverviewonsurfacemodiﬁcationofcottonﬁberforappareluse.JournalofPolymersand theEnvironment,21,181–190,(2013)

8. Kolte, PP., Shivankar, VS and Ramachandran, M., Herbal Clothing -AnAyurveda Doctor REST Journal on Emerging trendsinModellingandManufacturing1(1):26–31,(2015)

Abstract

Department of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

The enzyme is a biological agent with the ability to break downcomplexorganicsubstancessuchasstarch,oils,lipids, and dye chromophores. Because of its non toxic and environmentally beneﬁcial properties, enzymatic textile processingisoneofthefastest-growingsectorsintheeraof textile wet processing. Enzymes are proteins that help biological reactions move fast [6]. Each enzyme acts on a speciﬁcsubstrateorreactant.Enzymesaredistinguishedby

The textile sector makes a considerable contribution to the economy of many developing nations It is, however, considered one of the most polluting and energy-intensive industries in the world. The use of a high concentration of chemicals, alkaline or acidic pH conditions and high temperatures characterise traditional wet processing procedures used in the textile industry As a result, these activitiesconsumealotofenergyandwaterandpollutethe environment [1]. Therefore, the legislative regulations and environmental concerns are pushing a transition toward the use of sustainable processing techniques. The enzyme, ozone, ultrasound, and microwave-assisted technologies have found a wide range of applications in the textile industry. These technologies reduce the environmental impactoftextilewetprocessing,resultinginenergysavings, reduced water consumption, and the replacement of harsh chemicalsinmanufacturingtextilematerials.

ArticleReceived:11-01-2022,Revised:23-07-2022,Accepted:24-05-2022

Theneedforresearchintoalternativetechniquesofretaining water during dry processes is critical. Energy audits, which are uncommon in the textile segment, are essential in determining adequate energy management and energy conservation possibilities. This article examines several methodologies and research eﬀorts studied to sustainably pre-treat textiles and the potential of these technologies for otherapplications.

2.1Enzymaticpre-treatment

Department of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology, Institute Of Chemical Technology (ICT), Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai – 400 019 E-mail: ar.athalye@ictmumbai.edu.in

Citation:HarshalPatil&AshokAthalye,“SustainableTechnologiesforCellulosicandProtein-BasedTextiles”,Journalof theTextile Association,83/2(100-105),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

SustainableTechnologiesforCellulosicandProtein-BasedTextiles

Sustainability is not just a fashionable term. Economic growth, social welfare and environmental conservation are three pillars of sustainability, and each should be examined in relation to the others. With growing public awareness and societal consciousnessabouttheenvironment,thetextileindustryisdriventomanufactureeco-friendlyproducts.Theprimaryfocus islinkedtolessandharmlesswasteformation,reducedconsumptionofenergy,water,andchemicals,reusing/recyclingand following ethical manufacturing processes. The use of advanced technologies based on enzymes, ozone, ultrasound, microwave, and laser-assisted processing helps achieve sustainability in the textile industry. Adopting such modern techniques would help reduce the environmental impact, resulting in energy savings, reduced water consumption, and the replacement of harsh chemicals in textile manufacturing. This article highlights various methodologies and explores researcheffortstowardsustainablepre-treatmentoftextilesandthepotentialofthesetechnologiesforotherapplications

Keywords:enzyme,microwave.ozone,sustainability,ultrasound

Harshal Patil & Ashok Athalye*

*Corresponding Author:

bleachingeﬀectivelyatlowtemperatures,thussavingenergy Microwave[3].

2. Sustainable and eco-friendly textile pre-treatment of naturalﬁbres

Prof. (Dr.) Ashok Athalye

1.Introduction

heating plays a signiﬁcant role in textile wet processing thereby reducing the consumption of non renewable energy use There is no direct air pollution (indirectairpollutionfromelectricityisstilllowerthanthat caused by traditional heating); localised heating lowers the amountofenergywastedduringtheheatingprocess.Faster heatingenhancesproductivitywhilereducingenergyuse[4]. Theuseofultrasonicenergyintextileprocessesisafreshand exciting concept that has received much attention recently Ultrasound energy enables process acceleration, achieving the same or better outcome than existing techniques while operating under less harsh conditions, such as lower temperaturesandchemicalconcentrations[5].

Enzymes in textile wet processing have proved environmental benefits and significantly contributed to textile and garment sustainability An operation like bioscouringinthecleaningofnaturalfibres,bio-stone-washing of denim to create a worn-out effect, removing residual hydrogen peroxide in the bleach clean up stage, and biopolishing of cellulosic materials to prevent pilling, are some of the typical commercial applications of enzymes in textileprocessing[2].Nowadays,Ozonebleachingisagreen andsustainableapproachandisacceptedcommerciallyata more significant scale of production in the textile garment washing industry. Compared to the traditional hydrogen peroxide bleaching, the use of ozone gas helps achieve

There are two areas of ozone applications in the textile business, namely aqueous and gas ozone systems. As the operating principle of the ﬁnishing machine is ideal for a solution,aqueousozoneismorefeasiblethangaseousozone for wet operations. Owing to the occupational health and comfort, the use of gaseous ozone necessitates the use of particularairtightmachinery.Theleakproofgasketmaterial mustberesistanttogaseousozone[8].

Minimisesspaceasthereisnoneedtostorechemicals

Ÿ Avoids formation of halogenated organic compounds (AOX)

Photochemical process: Oxygen atoms generated by short wavelength UV radiation on photodissociation reactwithoxygenmoleculestoformozone.

Ozone is a powerful oxidant that is found naturally in the atmosphere.TheozonelayerprotectsusfromUVradiation byactingasashieldasitabsorbstheharmfulUVBandUVC radiations3(seeFigure2).

2.2 Ozonepre-treatment

their increased activity, selectivity, and sensitivity to pH, temperature,andotherenvironmentalchanges.Thereaction occurs at lower activation energy, which is achieved by forming an intermediate enzyme-substrate (see Fig 1). The enzymesarenotusedupintheprocess;theydonotbecomea part of the reaction's end product, but they inﬂuence the outcome.

Ÿ Radiochemicalprocess:Theozonecreationcanbeaided by high-energy radioactive rays irradiating gaseous or liquid oxygen.The method's energy eﬃciency is higher thantheozoneproducedbyelectricdischarge.

Corona (silent electrical discharge) process: Ozone is producedbyfeedingairoroxygengasintothegenerator, where the electric discharge converts oxygen or air into ozone.Themostextensivelyutilisedapproachforwater treatmentisozonecreationbycoronadischarge.

Enzyme Functions

Ÿ Enhancesdyeabilityofﬁbres

Figure 1: Principle of enzyme action

Amylase Decomposesstarchindesizing Cellulase Breaksdownthecellulosicchaintoremovethe protrudingﬁbres

Gaseous ozone concentration, temperature, pressure, solution composition (pH, ionic strength, and reactive chemicals), gas dispersion, turbulence, and contactor type areallfactorsthatinﬂuencethephysicalmass-transferrateof ozoneintowater.Ozonetreatmentsareexploredbyvarious researchers and commercially used in some textile applications(Table2).

2.3 Beneﬁtsofozonationinthetextileindustry

Ozone is a highly reactive gas that cannot be stored or transferred; it must be produced "in situ." The methods of artiﬁciallyproducingozonearelistedbelow

Ÿ Preventssolidwasteformationasozonedecomposesinto oxygen

Table 1: Enzymes used in textile processing

Ÿ Electrolyticprocess: Byﬂowingwateracrosspositively andnegativelychargedsurfaces,ozonecanbeproduced.

Catalase Terminatesresidualperoxideafterbleaching protease Removesprotein basedimpuritiesinscouring Lipase Removesoilandfattysubstancesduringscouring Pectinase Removespectin basedimpuritiesinscouring Laccase Removescolourmolecules

Scientists have been studying the use of enzymes in the textileindustryforthepasttwodecades.Bio-scouring,biowashing,bleachcleaningandbio-polishingareonlyafewof the widely used bioprocesses in the industry (Table 1). Laccases and peroxidases have gained popularity in recent years for removing colour or polymerisation for colour creation.These enzymes could also be used to process bast fibres to improve bleaching and fibre separation. Cotton, wool, and silk, among other natural fibres, have played an essential part in textile sustainability. On the other hand, these fibres must be cleaned using extensive wet methods thatconsumealotofwater,energy,andchemicals.Thefibres maybedamagedasaresultoftheselengthywettreatments [7].

Ÿ Creates distinct patterns and fading eﬀects during the denimwashingprocess

Figure 2: Cycle of formation and destruction of ozone

Consumes less water and chemicals and takes less time thantraditionalwetprocesses

Alkalineprotease 4.0%(OWF), MLR 1:20Temperature 400CTime 60minpH 8.5

Enzymatic Silk

Step1 productionofhydrogen peroxide:D glucose 10g/l,Glucose oxidase 25u/mLSodiumacetate 0.1MTemperature37°CpH 5.1 Step2 bleachwithhydrogen peroxideproducedbyglucose oxidaseat60°Cfor30minalong withbleachactivatorandnon ionic wettingagent.

Betterwhitenessalongwithasofttouch offabric.

Typical ﬁndings observed in the recent work related to the enzymeandozone-basedpre-treatmentoftextilematerial,

Makesanti-feltingtreatmentenvironmentfriendly Archives higher level of whiteness than the traditional bleaching

enzymatic Wool

Fattyacidsurfactantpretreatment accelerates enzymatichydrolysis. Alkalinefattyacidsurfactantathigh temperaturescausesdamagetowool[11]

Reductioninyellowness,Reductionintensile Theproperties,eﬃciencyoftreatmentdecreasesas increasesinpHbeyond4.

Enzymatic Cotton

Ozonetreatmentdoesnotchangethe morphologyofwool. Increasesoxygencontent,andhence Helpshydrophilicityimprovedyeability [9]

Around20 22%sericinremovalwith minimumdamageinmechanicalpropertiesis achievedinashorttreatmenttimecompared toconventionaldegumming[12]

Withtheincreaseintimeandtemperature ofbleaching,tearandtensileproperties decreases[18].

Enzymatic Cotton

Ozone Silk Ozone 60g/m3,ﬂowrate 0.5L/min aftertreatment soap 2g/lat850C, for10min.

Enzyme alcalase,savinase 1g/l, sodiumbicarbonate 5g/l,non ionic surfactant 5g/l,Temp 550C,Time 30 60min,pH 8 9.

Enzymatic Cotton

Pectinasetreatmentexhibitsmorethan95% pectinremoval.

Posthottreatmentisnecessarytoremovethe waxforuniformwettability[16]

Xylanase 5.5IU,Pectinase 4.0IU glycine NaOH,buﬀer 50mM,EDTA 1.0mMand1%Tween 80,pH8.5for 60minat50°C,MLR 1:15

Hazardousifusedignorantly

Table 2: Recent work related to the enzyme and ozone-based pre-treatment of textile materialTreatment Substrate Experimentalconditions Keyﬁndings

BioscouringwithXylanaseandPectinase achieved78%.Whitenessandabsorbencyare lessthansecwithminimalrupturein mechanicalproperties[17]

Necessitatesonsitegenerationasitcannotbestored

Pectinase 1 10g/l,non ionicwetting agent 1g/lfor30minat55°C,pH8.5. Postwashwith0.2g/lnon ionic wettingagentat70°C.

2.4 Drawbacksofozonationinthetextileindustry Causesyellowingofthefabric Aﬀects ﬁbre strength in case of excessive ozone concentration

Corrodes metal parts of machines owing to the high oxidationpotential Requiresasigniﬁcantﬁnancialexpenditure

Sanitizes non durable materials such as bandages, tissues,surgicalcotton

Treatmentbroughtthescalestoﬂattenand madethefabricsmoothandsoft.Absorbency anddyeuptakeincreasedtensilestrength decreasedslightly[10].

Treatmentwithfungalproteasesgivesaround 20%sericinremovalwithoutdamagetosilk ﬁbroin[13].

Ozonedestroysthedyeabsorbingsitespresent inthesidechainofthesilkmolecules, resultinginlessdyeuptake[14,15]

enzymatic Wool Pre treatment Fattyacidsurfactant 30mol/l,MLR 1:50Temperature 20 900CTime 60min. Enzymatictreatment Alkaline protease 4.0g/l,MLR 1:50 Temperature 500CTime 3hrpH 7

Table 2: Recent work related to the enzyme and ozone-based pre-treatment of textile material

Ozone Wool Stainlesssteelozonechamber(vol226 cm3),conc.ozonegas 6.2%(v/v), ﬂowrate1l/min.Temp 31 0Cfor10 minatunderatmospheric.

Enzymatic Silk Enzymefungalprotease,conc. 3 ml/gmsilk,temp 370C,time 3hr

Intextilewetprocessing,ultrasoundhasbeenintroducedasa promising method for reducing operation time, and energy consumption and improving product quality. Ultrasound's use in the textile industry dates back more than a century when it was ﬁrst used to clean textile machinery parts like needles in knitting machines. It was then followed by ultrasound'sdispersingeﬀecttopreparepre-treatmentbaths suchasquickstarchsizingatlowtemperatures,development of long term stable homogeneous emulsions, dye dispersions,andthickenersforprintpaste.Thenextstepwas

ozone Cotton

2.6 Microwave-assistedpre-treatment

Thepresenceofsurfactantintheozone bleachbathsigniﬁcantlyimprovedthe qualityofbleachedfabric.Non ionic surfactantalsoimprovedtheabsorbency (1.4sec),almostequaltoanionic surfactantbutlacksinwhiteness improvementcomparedwithananionic surfactant[20].

Inthetextileﬁnishingindustry,electromagneticwaveshave beenutilisedtodrythicktextilesusingradiofrequency(RF)

Ultrasound is mechanical energy that does not absorb moleculesandrequiresamediumtopropagate.Theeﬀectsof ultrasound (Figure 3) resulting from acoustic cavitation in liquid media, such as bubble formation, growth, and collapse, are widely accepted. Bubbles collapsing violently in less than a microsecond release a lot of heat, resulting in short-livedhotpatches.Ultrasoundirradiationcancausethe degradation of organic molecules, the oxidation and reduction of inorganic compounds, and the sonolysis of waterintoreactiveradicals-OHandH.Someoftheimpacts of ultrasound include accelerating chemical reactions, promoting mass transfer, shortening reaction cycles, improving reaction yield, changing the reaction pathway, increasing surface area between the reactants, and acceleratingdissolution[21].

Ozone/oxygenmixture 100g/m3, ﬂowrate 0.5mg/l,time 1 3min pH 5,aftertreatment peroxide bleachingandhotsoaping.

ozone Cotton

Ultrasound's role in various textile applications can be divided into two categories: removing materials/impurities from the surface of textiles (sono-preparation process) and thediffusionandinsertionofdyemolecules/chemicalsand nanoparticles into fibres (sono-dyeing/sono-printing and sono finishing). Although it is difficult to differentiate between the chemical and physical parts of ultrasound that areresponsibleforthetwodifferentapplications,cavitation is a significant factor that has been shown to improve the involvedreactionrates.

Ozonedose 10g/h,pH 5, treatmenttime 45min, temperature 25 300C.anionic surfactant-0.01-0.5g/l

Figure 3: Principle of ultrasonic treatment in textile

Keyﬁndings

Anacceptabledegreeofwhitenessis Tachieved.wostageozone peroxidebleaching showsimprovementinwhitenesswith lesscellulosemodiﬁcation[19].

Treatment Substrate Experimentalconditions

2.5 Ultrasound-assistedpre-treatment

Theterm"microwave"(MW)wasintroducedin1932,andit was initially employed in radiocommunication and radar technology during World War II. Microwaves are now widely recognised and used in various applications, including mobile phones, television, wireless computer networks, and even specialised applications like rocket launchingengines.

toapplyultrasonictechnologytoremovecontaminantsfrom ﬁbre surfaces and improve dye or chemical diﬀusion into fabricswhilefurtherstudieswereconducted(Table3)[22].

Ultrasonic wool Ultrasonicsystemcapacity14lit,temprange 30 80oC,ultrasonicpowerof2×400Wwith frequency40kHz.Optimizedscouring condition 0.5 1g/lsoda,2 3g/lsoap,350C, for30 35min

ObtainedHighwhitenesswithashort treatmenttimeandMinimumdestructive eﬀectonwoolﬁbres. TreatmentincreasestheCODandBODof wastewater[24]

SodaRecipes:ash 2.5 10%(owf),time1 5min, microwavepower 70%. hydrochloricacid 0.01 0.5m,time210min, microwavepower 100%. savinase,conc. 0.1 4%,time2 15min, Temp 600C,microwavepower 30%.

Typicalﬁndingswereobservedintherecentworkrelatedto ultrasound and microwave-assisted pretreatment of textile materials.

Enzymatictreatmentinmicrowaveenergy exhibitseﬃcientsericinremovalwithout ﬁbredamage.Microwave assisted degummingispossibleatminimumenzyme dosageandtreatmenttime[25]

Ultrasoundscauseemulsiﬁcationofthesuint. Thehighfrequencyoftheacousticwaveand lowvibrationamplitudedoesnotcause damageandentanglementstowoolﬁbre[23].

heating purposes Microwave heating is faster, more uniform, eﬃcient, and easier to penetrate to the inside of particles. However, there has been little research in the literaturedescribingthefeasibilityofusingamicrowavefor desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and ﬁnishing cottonbasedfabrics(Table3)[22].

Microwaveandultrasonic

Sodaash 1g/l+hydrogenperoxide(50%) 2 g/l(pH Enzyme9.6)(papain) 5g/l(pH6.8)

Keyﬁndings

Greycottonistreatedwithdesizingagents, scouringagents,bleachingagents,and auxiliarychemicals.

Ultrasonic cotton

Table 3: Ultrasound and microwave-assisted pre-treatment of textile materials Treatment Substrate Experimentalconditions

ScouredcottonwerebleachedwithH2O2(50 %):10mL/L,NaOH(50%):6mL/L, Stabilizer:1mL/L,Wettingagent:1mL/L, liquorratio:20:1,pH:10.

Ultrasonicparameters frequency 35KHz, Temp 30 900C,time 30 60min.

silk

Sodaash+hydrogenperoxideandenzyme (papain)showeﬃcientdegumming. Comparedwithconventionaltechniques, microwaveandultrasonicshoweﬃcient degummingwithouthamperingthestrength ofsilkfabric.

Microwaveparameters (1550watt&2450 MHZ) powerconsumption 50%,time 5 Ultrasonicmin.parameters (220W&40KHz), Temp 60 0C,time 30min. Recipesusedinbothtreatment: Hot Sodawaterash5g/l(pH10.5)

Dyeuptakeimprovementafterdegumming [26]

Theactivationofpolarmoleculesinthetreatedmediaisthe basis for microwave dielectric heating (polarisation phenomenon). The charge changes polarity approximately ﬁvebilliontimespersecondinamicrowaveelectromagnetic ﬁeld; it is pulsating at 2.5 GHz, a popular frequency for

Non ionicdetergent 1g/l(pH7.5)

Microwave wool Scouredfabricbleachedwithmicrowave treatment.hydrogenperoxide(30%) 1 10 volume.pH 9.Microwaveinputpower 150 750W.Temp 45 750C.Time 1 25min, MLR 1:5 25

Microwave cotton

Completepre treatmentisdonewithin5min. Maximumremovalofstarchsizingagent obtainedinthemicrowaveovenatpower800 Wfor2min.Completewaxandimpurities removalisachieved.Whitenessobtainedby optimisedmicrowavetreatmentisaround60 [27]

Microwave silk Microwaveoven(output 1550wattoperating atFrequency 2450MHz)

dryers that operate at various frequencies. The first use of MW in textile finishing dates back to the 1970s, when cellulose fabrics were treated with Durable Press (DP) finishingagentsandcuredinamicrowaveoven.

Ultrasonictreatmenthelpsachievebetter fastnesspropertieslikeconventionalpre treatedfabricwithminimumtimeand temperature[28]

[18]Farooq,A.,Ali,S.,Abbas,N.,Fatima,G.A.&Ashraf,M.A.Comparativeperformanceevaluationofconventionalbleachingand enzymaticbleachingwithglucoseoxidaseonknittedcottonfabric.JournalofCleanerProduction42,(2013)

[24]AbouEl-Kheir,A.,Haggag,K.,Mowaﬁ,S.I.&El-Sayed,H.Microwave-AssistedBleachingofWoolFabrics.JournalofNatural Fibers12,(2015)

References

[14]Sargunamani,D.&Selvakumar,N.Eﬀectsofozonetreatmentonthepropertiesofrawanddegummedtassarsilkfabrics.Journalof AppliedPolymerScience104,(2007)

3. Summary

[28]Farooq,A.,Ashraf,M.A.&Mohsin,M.Eﬀectofconventionalandultrasonicassistedbleachingoncolourfastnesspropertiesof reactivedyedcottonfabric.AsianJournalofChemistry25,(2013)sues1–3,25May),(2006),183-189

[21]Chemat,F.etal.Ultrasoundassistedextractionoffoodandnaturalproducts.Mechanisms,techniques,combinations,protocolsand applications.Areview.UltrasonicsSonochemistryvol.34(2017)

[19]Prabaharan,M.&Rao,J.V.Combineddesizing,scouringandbleachingofcottonusingzone.IndianJournalofFibreandTextile Research28,(2003)

[6] Bhatia,S.Introductiontoenzymesandtheirapplications.inIntroductiontoPharmaceuticalBiotechnology,Volume2(2018). doi:10.1088/978-0-7503-1302-5ch1

[10]Sharma,E.&Fatima,N.Eﬀectofenzymatictreatmentonwoolfabric.EnvironmentConservationJournal20,67–73(2019)

[27]Hashem,M.,Taleb,M.A.,El-Shall,F.N.&Haggag,K.Newprospectsinpretreatmentofcottonfabricsusingmicrowaveheating. CarbohydratePolymers103,(2014)

[15]Devaraju,S.&Selvakumar,N.Eﬀectofozonetreatmentonthedyeingpropertiesofmulberryandtassarsilkfabrics.Journalof EngineeredFibersandFabrics7,(2012)

[3] Körlü,A.UseofOzoneintheTextileIndustry.inTextileIndustryandEnvironment(2019).doi:10.5772/intechopen.81774

further research and development to make them a viable alternative to traditional processing These sustainable technologies would reduce the environmental impact, resultinginenergysavings,reducedwaterconsumption,and thereplacementofharshchemicalsinmanufacturingtextile materials.

[25]Haggag,K.,El-Sayed,H.&Allam,O.G.Degummingofsilkusingmicrowave-assistedtreatments.JournalofNaturalFibers4, (2007)

[9] Wakida,T.etal.Ozone-gastreatmentofwoolandsilkfabrics.JournalofFiberScienceandTechnology60,(2004)

[22]Haghi,A.K.Applicationofmicrowavetechniquesintextilechemistry AsianJournalofChemistryvol.17(2005)

[7] Madhu,A.&Chakraborty,J.N.Developmentsinapplicationofenzymesfortextileprocessing.JournalofCleanerProductionvol. 145(2017)

[8] Perkowski,J.,Kos,L.&Ledakowicz,S.Applicationofozoneintextilewastewatertreatment.Ozone:ScienceandEngineering18, (1996)

[20]Arooj,F.,Jamshed,K.,Kashif,S.urR.,Jamshed,H.&Luqman,M.Improvementintheabsorbencyofozonebleachedcottonfabric bytheadditionofsurfactant.JournaloftheTextileInstitute112,(2021)

[2] RoyChoudhury,A.K.SustainableTextileWetProcessing:ApplicationsofEnzymes.in(2014).doi:10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_7

[12]Arami,M.,Mazaheri,F.&Rahimi,S.EnzymaticdegummingofpersiansilkbyAlcalaseandSavinase.Amirkabir(Journalof ScienceandTechnology)16,(2005)

[16]Colombi,B.L.,deCássiaSiqueiraCurtoValle,R.,BorgesValle,J.A.&Andreaus,J.Advancesinsustainableenzymaticscouringof cottontextiles:Evaluationofdiﬀerentpost-treatmentstoimprovefabricwettability.CleanerEngineeringandTechnology4,(2021)

[11]Yoshimura,Y.&Ohe,T.Eﬀectofsurfactantpretreatmentonenzymatichydrolysisofwoolﬁber.JournalofFiberScienceand Technology68,(2012)

[26]Vyas,S.K.&Shukla,S.R.Comparativestudyofdegummingofsilkvarietiesbydiﬀerenttechniques.JournaloftheTextileInstitute 107,(2016)

[1] PatilHarshal,AthalyeAshok&AdivarekarRavindra.Developmentsinwash-oﬀtechnologiesafterreactivedyeing.AsianDyer19, 25–29(2022)

[13]Gulrajani,M.L.,Agarwal,R.&Chand,S.Degummingofsilkwithafungalprotease.IndianJournalofFibreandTextileResearch 25,(2000)

[4] Hasanbeigi,A.&Price,L.Atechnicalreviewofemergingtechnologiesforenergyandwatereﬃciencyandpollutionreductionin thetextileindustry.JournalofCleanerProductionvol.95(2015)

[17]Singh,A.,Kaur,A.,Patra,A.K.&Mahajan,R.Asustainableandgreenprocessforscouringofcottonfabricsusingxylanopectinolyticsynergism:switchingfromnoxiouschemicalstoeco-friendlycatalysts.3Biotech8(2018)

[5] Hariﬁ,T.&Montazer,M.Areviewontextilesonoprocessing:Aspecialfocusonsonosynthesisofnanomaterialsontextile substrates.UltrasonicsSonochemistryvol.23(2015)

[23]Czaplicki,Z.&Ruszkowski,K.OptimizationofScouringAlpacaWoolbyUltrasonicTechnique.JournalofNaturalFibers11, (2014)

The problem of environmental stress exists and will not go away by magic The impact of new technologies and techniques like as ultrasonic and microwave technology, ozonetreatment,andenzymaticprocessingonthelong-term viability of wet processing operations has been explored in this paper. However, even in the laboratory, the new processes are still encountering diﬃculties, necessitating

Articlehttps://doi.org/10.17605/Received:06-01-2022,Revised:26-07-2022,Accepted:23-04-2022

from F.religiosa has been reported to be appliedonChitosantreatedcottonfabric[15].Similarwork has also been reported on silk [16]. However, not many studieshavebeenreportedontheuseofnaturalmordantsfor dyeing with the colour extracted from Peepal bark and the measurementofantimicrobialandantioxidantpropertiesof thedyedsubstrate.

ExtractionofNaturalDyefromPeepalBark(F.Religiosa)andits ApplicationonTextileSubstrates

1Department of Fabric and Apparel Science, Lady Irwin College, Delhi University 2 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata

Dr. Sheetal Chopra

shows diverse range of pharmacological activities like, anticonvulsant, antidiabetic, anti inflammatory, antimicrobial, analgesic, wound healing, antioxidant, proteolytic, and anti-amnesic [4]. The leaf juice has been used for the treatment of asthma, cough, sexual disorders, diarrhoea, haematuria, ear-ache, toothache, migraine, eye troubles,gastricproblemsandscabies[3];leafdecoctionas ananalgesicfortoothache;stembarkingonorrhea,bleeding, paralysis, diabetes, as antiseptic, astringent, anti inflammatory and analgesic [5] The leaves have been reported to have hypoglycemic, wound healing [6][7], antimicrobial [8] properties and methanolic fig extracts of Ficus Religiosa are anticonvulsant [6]. Traditionally, the bark is used for its antibacterial, antiprotozoal, antiviral, astringent and antidiarrhoeal properties [8] and also in the treatmentofulcers[9,10].ThebarkofPeepaltreeconstitutes phytosterols like lanosterol, β-sitosterol-D glucoside and stigmasterol [11, 12] because of which they have a wellestablishedandwidespectrumofpharmacologicalactivities. Bark of F religiosa also shows antidiabetic activity and exhibitsfallofthebloodsugarlevel[13].

1. Introduction

ThepotentialtherapeuticbeneﬁtsofleafjuiceandfruitsofF. religiosahavebeendocumentedinfolkmedicine.F religiosa

OnesuchnaturalsourceisPeepaltree(FicusreligiosaLinn), the oldest portrayed tree in India and a native of the subHimalayan tract, Bengal and Central India. Since antiquity, F. religiosa has got mythological, religious and medicinal importance in Indian culture. Ficus Linn being the largest genus of the family Moraceae comprises about 755 ﬁg tree speciesworldwide.F.religiosaisaBoTree,whichsheltered theBuddhawhenhewas“enlightened”(Bodhi)ashedivined the“truths”[3].'Religiosa'refersto'religion'becausethetree issacredinbothHinduismandBuddhism[3].

1 2 1Sheetal Chopra *, Anjali Agrawal & Jyoti Rani

Abstract:

Citation: Citation: Sheetal Chopra, Anjali Agrawal & Jyoti Rani, “Extraction of Natural Dye from Peepal Bark (F.Religiosa)anditsApplicationonTextileSubstrates”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/2(106-112),(July-August’ 2022),

ThefruitofF religiosacontainsappreciableamountsoftotal phenolic and total ﬂavonoid content [14] which qualiﬁes themtobeusedasatonicandthefruitpowderisusedtotreat Dyeasthma.extracted

*Corresponding Author :

The present study attempts to extract natural dye from the bark of F religiosa to dye cotton, wool and silk. The fabrics were premordanted with alum, myrobalam, eucalyptus leaves, beetal nut, pomegranate peel and ferrous sulfate. Assessment of the dyed samples was done in terms of colour strength (K/S), colour coordinates (L* a*, b* values) and fastness properties. Effect of pH on dye uptake was also assessed. A range of colours i.e. from pinks to purples to browns could be obtained on unmordanted samples. The colour was found to further intensify on mordanting and the maximum dye uptake was observed at neutral pH. Wool fabric showed maximum dye uptake followed by silk and cotton. Excellent colour fastness properties of mostofthedyedsampleswererecorded.ThedyeextractedfromPeepalbarkshowedexcellentpharmacologicalproperties. Almost 100% antioxidant activity was obtained when concentration of the dye increased from 10 mg/ml to 100 mg/ml. The dye and the dyed samples showed good antimicrobial activity as almost negligible growth of bacteria was observed for pre mordanted dyed samples thus making the dyed fabrics as bioactive textiles. Bioactive textiles dyed with the bark of F religiosacanfindsuitableapplicationsinthehealthandhygieneindustryandinthefieldofmedicaltextiles.

Assistant Professor, Department of Fabric and Apparel Science, Lady Irwin College, Delhi University, Sikandra Road, Mandi House, New Delhi – 110 001

The emergent concerns about the eco-system, pollution, ecology, environment and increasing cognizance of problems related to toxicity and health hazards associated with synthesis, processing and use of synthetic dyes have resulted in the substitution of synthetic dyes by more ecofriendly products for colouration [1]. Dyes derived from naturalsourceshaveemergedasanimportantalternativeto syntheticdyes.Intherecentyears,theincreasedavailability of abundant new sources of natural colours has helped to reduce the cost of natural colourants. The use of natural products for imparting antimicrobial properties on textile materialshasalsobeenwidelyresearched[2].

Keywords:Antimicrobial,Cotton,F.religiosa,Naturaldye,Peepal,Wool,Silk

E-mail: sheetal.chopra@lic.du.ac.in

Cotton, wool and silk fabrics were procured and scoured to preparethemfordyeing.Thefabricspeciﬁcationsaregiven inTable1.

Ashcontentoftherawmaterialwasdeterminedaccordingto AOACmethod(AOAC, 2000).Thepercentageashcontent wascalculatedasinequation2:

Raw material was characterized in terms of the moisture contentandashcontent.

Moisture content of the raw material was determined accordingtoASTMD629-99.

Analytical grade sodium carbonate and glacial acetic acid wereusedtomaintainpH.

WhereWmistheweightofdyeinmoistureequilibriumstate at20°Cand65%relativehumidity,andWdisweightofdye driedat105°Cfor60min.

2.2.4 Applicationofdyeondiﬀerenttextilesubstrates

The present study investigates the extraction of dye from Peepalbarkanditsapplicationoncotton,woolandsilk.The eﬀect of various natural and synthetic mordants have also been studied on the colour uptake using a pre-mordanting methodandthefastnesspropertiesintermswash,rub,light and perspiration were determined The biological (antimicrobial and antioxidant) properties of the dye and dyedsampleswerealsostudied.

2 2 4 1 Pre mordanting of textile substrates: Substrates (cotton, wool and silk) were pre-mordanted with 5% owf alum, myrobalam, eucalyptus leaves, beetal nut, pomegranatepeelandferroussulfateat80°Cfor30minutes followedbydryingatroomtemperature.

2.2.6BiologicalProperties

2.2.1.2 Ashcontent

Wool 1169 56 53

Silk 260 76 64

2.2.1Characterisationoftherawmaterial

Thepercentagemoisturecontentwascalculatedasgivenin equation1:

2.2.5Assessmentoffastnessproperties

2.2.Methods

2.2.2.Extractionofdye

Natural mordants such as Harda (Myrobalam), Betel nut (Supari), Pomegranate peel and Eucalyptus leaves and chemical mordants such as alum (Merck) and ferrous sulphate(Merck)werealsousedforthestudy PeepalbarkwascollectedfromthelocalgardensofDelhi.

20 g of Peepal bark was extracted in 1000 ml of distilled wateratboilfor60mins.Theextractedmixture(pH7)was cooledtoroomtemperatureandﬁlteredusingWhatmanNo. 1ﬁlterpaper ThedyewasextractedatthreepHlevels(pH5, 7and9).

Thevisiblespectraoftheextracteddyewererecordedinthe wavelengthrangefrom400–700nm,onD-2750UV-Visible spectrophotometer.

The extract was dried and colourant. Yield percentage was estimatedonthebasisofdryweightasgiveninequation3:

2.2.1.1Moisturecontent

The colour value was determined by using the Kubelka–Munkequationasgiveninequation4:

Table 1: Speciﬁcations of the fabrics used

Fabric GSM Endsper inch(epi) Picksper inch(ppi)

Cotton 660 106 62

Moistur e cont ent ( % ) = W m W d W m X 100 ( 1 ) Yield ( % ) = W eig ht of e xtr act ( gr ams ) W eig ht of dried bar k ( gr ams ) X 100 … … … ( 3 ) K/S= ( 1 R ) 2 2R ………………………(4)

2.2.3 Visiblespectrumoftheextracteddye

2.2.4.2 Dyeingoftextilesubstrates

2. MaterialsandMethods

For assessing the fastness to light, wash, rub and perspiration,pre-mordantedfabricsweredyedwithaqueous extract obtained at neutral, acidic and alkaline pH. Light fastnesswasassessedinaccordancewithAATCC16–2004 on Xenotest alpha high energy light fastness tester Colour fastness to washing was assessed in launder-O-meter in accordance with the method prescribed in IS: 3361 – 1984 (ISO–II);rubbingonacrockmeterasperAATCC8–2007; and perspiration on a perspirometer in accordance with the methodprescribedinAATCC15–2007.

Pre-mordantedcotton,woolandsilkfabricsweredyedwith the aqueous dye extract of Peepal bark obtained at varying pH(acidic,neutralandalkaline). Thedyeingwascarriedout for60minsatboil.M.L.Rwasmaintainedat1:30forcotton andwooland1:80forsilk.Dyeingwascarriedoutonvolume basis,therefore,50%oftheextracteddyeliquorwastakento make the required M.L.R.To study the eﬀect of pH on dye uptake,fabricsweredyedatpH5,7and9.Thedyedsamples werecoldrinsed,soapedwith0.5g/lLissapolNat50ºCfor 20minsfollowedbydryingatroomtemperature.

2.2.6.1AntioxidantProperties

Antioxidant activity of the dye extracted from Peepal bark

2.1 Material

3.1.3VisibleSpectraofextracteddye

Qualitativeassessmentofthedyeinsolutionformwasdone byAATCC30method(Discdiﬀusionmethod).

Qualitative assessment of the antimicrobial activity of the fabricsampleswasdonebyparallelstreakmethod(AATCC 147).

Mediumand pH extractionof Colourof obtaineddye Yield% Aqueous,5 Lightred 13% Aqueous,7 Red 11% Aqueous,9 Deepred 40% pH5 pH7 pH9

Testorganism:Gramnegativebacteria(Escherichiacoli)

Testspecimens

Table 2: Yield % and colour of dye residue obtained from Peepal bark after extraction

(b) Dyed fabrics: The textile substrates premordanted with alum, ferrous sulphate, harda and eucalyptus and then dyedwiththedyeextractedinaqueousmediumatpH7 wereanalyzedfortheirantimicrobialactivity.

Thevisiblespectraofthedyeextractedinaqueousmediumat pH5and7showedtheλmaxat495nm. Thedyeextractedat alkaline pH showed a bifurcation in the peak with λmax at 440nmand520nm,thusindicatingthatthecolourobtained under these conditions has undergone some structural change. Also, it can be observed that the dye extracted at alkaline pH has maximum absorbance at 1.5% v/v as compared to that at acidic and neutral pH at same concentration.

Figure1showsthevisiblespectraof1%v/vdyeextractedin aqueous medium at various pH viz. neutral, acidic and alkaline.

3.1.1Yield%andcolour

The dye was extracted from Peepal bark in an aqueous mediumatvaryingpH(5,7and9).Yield%wasdetermined andtheresultsarepresentedinTable2.

3. ResultsandDiscussion

3.1.2MoistureandAshcontent

and the dyed samples was measured by DPPH assay The textilesubstratespremordantedwithalum,ferroussulphate, harda and eucalyptus and then dyed with the dye extracted (aqueous medium at pH 7) were analyzed for their antioxidantactivity.Theundyedandtheunmordanteddyed samplesweretakenascontrol.

3.2 Application of extracted dye on premordanted textile substrates

Culturemedium:Nutrientagar

Table 3 - Colours obtained on unmordanted textile substrates

Therawmaterialwascharacterizedintermsofmoistureand ash content. Powder of Peepal bark was found to have a moisturecontentof0.7%andashcontentof5.4%.

Intersting colours ranging from pinks to purples to browns could be obtained on unmordanted samples. Silk and wool fibers fibres showed significantly less affinity for dyes in neutral or alkaline media. This may be because there are more carboxylate ions (COO ) than ammonium ions (–NH3+)onwoolandsilkinthealkalinemedium,duetothe formation of –NH2 groups from – NH3+ ions via their interactionwithOH-ions.Therefore,proteinfabricbecomes anionic, and due to electrostatic charges, repulsion occurs between the colorants and the protein fibres, ultimately resultinginaloweringofthedyeuptake.

(1) Dye solution of aqueous dye extract (neutral pH) preparedatdiﬀerentconcentrationsviz.0.5%,1%,5%, 10%w/v

Higher amounts of yield, ~40% was obtained when extraction was done in aqueous medium at alkaline pH as comparedtoacidicandneutralpH.

Tostudytheeﬀectofmordants,thetextilefabricswerepremordanted with mordants such as alum, harda, eucalyptus leaves, supari, pomegranate peel and ferrous sulphate and then dyed. The colours obtained for cotton, wool and silk havebeenpresentedinTables4,5and6respectively

Figure 1- Visible spectra of dye extracted from Peepal bark in aqueous medium at varying pH

2.2.6.2AntimicrobialProperties

3.1 Characterisationofrawmaterialandextracteddye

ThedyewasextractedaswellasappliedatvaryingpHvalues tostudytheeﬀectofpHondyeuptake(measuredintermsof K/S) and the results of unmordanted dyed samples are summarisedinTable3.

Arangeofshadesviz.pinks,red,brownsandblackcouldbe obtainedwithdiﬀerentmordants.Ingeneral,itwasobserved thatbrighteranddarkershadeswereobtainedondyeingafter mordanting as compared to unmordanted samples The activity sequence for the pre mordanting method was: ferrous sulphate > Alum > Supari > Pomegranate peel > Eucalyptus>Harda.Itwasseenthatmostmordantsshowed maximum colour value when dyed at neutral pH for cotton andsilksamples.Ferroussulphateyieldedverydarkbrown toalmostblackcolouronallthetextilesubstrates.Thewool fabricsingeneralgaveverydarkshadesincomparisontosilk andcotton.

Table 4: Dyeing of Unmordanted and Mordanted Cotton Fabric

Table 5: Dyeing of Unmordanted and Mordanted Wool Fabric

Oxygen-centered free radicals and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) can be generated as by-products during oxidative progresses of living organisms. Many human diseases, including accelerated ageing, cancer, cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative disease and inﬂammation, are linked to excessive amounts of free radicals [18]. The antioxidants are necessary to cure these diseases [19]. Antioxidant agents, particularly those from natural sources are much in demand since they function as free-radicalscavengersandchainbreakers.

Thiscanbeattributedtotheferrousionshowingasecondary valency of six in its coordination complexes instead of its normalvalencyoftwo;itformssixcoordinationbondswith donor atoms (ligands). Silk consists of amide linkages containing nitrogen and oxygen atoms with lone pairs of electrons which also have the ability to act as ligands. Therefore, ferrous atoms simultaneously form coordination bondswithsilkandcolorantmoleculesresultinginﬁxation to the ﬁbre [17] The appearance of darker shades of colorantswithironandzincionsagreeswithresultsreporting that these ions form more stable complexes with anthocyaninesratherthanaluminumions[17].

It was observed that almost 90% antioxidant activity was obtainedevenatthelowerconcentrationof20mg/ml.When the concentration was increased to 100mg/ml almost 95% activitywasobserved.ThenaturaldyeextractedfromPeepal bark contains phytochemicals such as phenols, tannins and serotonin which contains electron donor groups These

3.3AssessmentofAntioxidantActivity

The unmordanted dyed cotton, wool and silk showed good wash fastness properties. The light fastness of the dyed sampleswasobservedtobeverygoodandrangedbetween56. The wash fastness rating of the samples ranged between goodtoexcellentunderallthedyeingconditions.Theratings for staining of the adjacent fabrics for all the dyed samples ranged from 4.5 to 5 and there was no change in colour observedforthedyedsampleundertest.

Table 6: Dyeing of Unmordanted and Mordanted Silk Fabric

3.2 Fastnessproperties

The pre-mordanted samples gave excellent wash fastness properties. Grey scale ratings ranged between 4.5- 5 for staining of the adjacent fabric, without any corresponding change in colour. Perspiration fastness of pre-mordanted cotton,woolandsilkwasexcellentwithratingof5forboth acidicandalkalineperspirationsolution.Therubfastnessof the pre-mordanted cotton, wool and silk samples was also good. Rub fastness of the dyed cotton, wool and silk was marginallybetterfordryrubfastnessthanwet.

Antioxidant activity of the dye extracted from Peepal bark (aqueous,pH7)andthesamples(cotton,woolandsilk)dyed withaqueousextractofthedyeatneutralpHwasassessedby DPPH method. Diﬀerent concentrationsviz. 10, 20, 40, 60, 80and100mg/mlofthedyeweretakenandtheantioxidant activitywasdeterminedasshowninTable7.

80 0.04

Table 8: Antioxidant Activity of Fabric Samples

The dye extracted from Peepal bark in aqueous medium at neutralpHandthetextilesdyedwiththemwerequalitatively assessed for their antimicrobial activity against gram negative bacteria, E.coli. The extracted dye samples were assessedbydiscdiﬀusionmethodandthedyedsampleswere assessedbyparallelstreakmethod.

0 0.785

Diﬀerentconcentrationsoftheextracteddyeweretakenviz. 0.5%,1.0%,5%and10%w/v Noclearzoneofinhibition wasobservedincaseofdye(PlateI).Inadditiontothis,there wasacompletelackofgrowthunderneaththediscsatallthe concentrations,thusindicatingthatthedyesarebactericidal innatureandnotbacteriostatic.

Table 7: Antioxidant Activity of the dye extracted from Peepal bark

3.4AssessmentofAntimicrobialActivity

The qualitative assessment of the antimicrobial activity of the pre mordanted and dyed samples did not show any growth of bacteria on the fabric surface (Plates II, III, IV). Betterresultswereobtainedforsilkandcottonascompared to wool. On the contrary, bacterial growth was observed in thecaseofundyedandunmordantedfabrics. 94.21 94.21 94.21 0.977 0 1.003 0 Unmordanted 0.753 22.92 0.65 17.19 0.77 23.23 Ferrous Sulphate 0.02 97 0.00 100 0.138 86.24 Alum 0.031 98.66 0.072 90.82 0.03 97.00 Harda 0.041 95.80 0.003 99.61 0.007 97.30 Eucalyptus leaves 0.034 96.51 0.079 89.93 0.15 85.04

Concentration(mg/ml) Absorbance(at517nm) activityAntioxidant(%) 0 0.692 0 10 0.15 78.32 20 0.07 89.88 40 0.04

Interestingly,allthemordantedsamplesshowedalmost100 % antioxidant activity This may be because the mordant in combinationwiththedyetogetherareabletoabletogenerate enough phytochemicals to react with the free radicals thus givingantioxidantactivityintherangeof90-100%.Mostof themordantsusedalsocontainedtannins.

100 0.04

Cotton Wool Silk Mordant A b s o r b a n c e ( a t 5 1 7 n m ) A n t i o x i d a n t A c t i v i t y ( % ) A b s o r b a n c e ( a t 5 1 7 n m ) A n t i o x i d a n t A c t i v i t y ( % ) A b s o r b a n c e ( a t 5 1 7 n m ) A n t i o x i d a n t A c t i v i t y ( % ) Undyed

donors react with free radicals and convert them to more stable products and terminate the radical chain reaction. Becauseofthisuniquepropertyofthisdye,ithasimmense potential in medical textiles. The results of antioxidant activityofthedyedsamplesareshowninTable8.

[16]P. Saravanan and G. Chandramohan, 'Dyeing of silk with ecofriendly natural dye obtained from bark of Ficus Religiosa.L, InternationalJournalofRecentTrendsinScienceAndTechnology1(3),268-273,(2011)

[12]S. B. Chandrasekar, M. Bhanumathy, A. T. Pawar, and T. Somasundaram, 'Phytopharmacology of Ficus religiosa', PharmacognosyReviews.;4(8):195–199,(2010)

generated many opportunities for the application of innovative finishes. Antimicrobial textiles with improved functionalityfindavarietyofapplicationssuchashealthand hygieneproducts,especiallythegarmentswornclosetothe skin and several medical applications such as, infection control and barrier material Owing to this, there is considerable interest in developing textiles based on ecofriendlyagentswhichcanhelptoreduceeffectivelytheill effects associated with the microbial growth on textile

[5] R.Sreelekshmi,P.G.Latha,M.M.Arafat,S.Shyamal,V.J.Shine,G.I.Anuja,S.R.SujaandS.Rajasekharan,'Anti-inﬂammatory, analgesicandanti-lipidperoxidationstudies onstembarkofFicusreligiosaLinn.',NaturalProductRadiance.6,377-381,(2007)

[18]J.Moskovitz,M.B.Yim,P.BChockP.B,'Freeradicalsanddisease',ArchivesofBiochemistryandBiophysics',397,(354-359), (2002)

[11]K.D.Swami,G.S.MalikandN.P.S.Bisht,'ChemicalinvestigationofstembarkofFicusreligiosaandProsopisspicigera',Journal oftheIndianChemicalSociety,66,288–289,(1989)

[4] S.GautamandS.Nidhi,'Ficusreligiosa–potentialroleinpharmaceuticals',InternationalJournalofPharmaceuticalScienceand Research,5(5),1616-1623(2014)

[13]R. Pandit. A. Phadke, 'Antidiabetic eﬀect of Ficus religiosa extract in streptozotocin induced diabetic rats, Journal of Ethnopharmacology,128,462-466,(2010)

References

[19]X.Yuan,M.Gao,H.Xia,C.TanCandDuy,'FreeRadicalScavengingactivitesandbioactivesubstancesofJerusalemartichoke (HelianthustuberosusL.)leaves',FoodChemistry,133,(10-14),(2012)

[17]A.Khan,M.T Hussain,andH.Jiang,Dyeingofsilkfabricwithnaturaldyefromcamphor(Cinnamomumcamphora)plantleaf extract,ColorationTechnology,(1-5),(Aug2018)

[6] R. Charde, H. Dhongade, M. Charde,A. Kasture, 'Evaluation of antioxidant, wound healing and anti-inﬂammatory activity of ethanolicextractofleavesofF.religiosa',InternationalJournal.PharmaceuticalScienceandResearch,1,72-82,(2010)

3. Conclusion

study,colourswithawideshaderangecouldbe obtained on cotton, wool and silk using dye extracted from Peepal bark with excellent fastness properties Various combinationsofselectednaturalandchemicalmordantsnot only resulted in expanding the shade card but also improvement in the fastness properties Excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties could be obtained forthedyeaswellasdyedsampleswhichcanbesuccessfully used in the health and hygiene industry and other medical textileapplications.

[1] E.S.Al-Amoudi,E.M.Osman,'OptimizationofDyeingPerformanceofanEco-FriendlyNaturalDye"VervainBarks"appliedto SilkFabricsatDiﬀerentpHValues',ResearchJournalofTextilesandApparel,13(1),34–45,(2009)

Inmaterial.thepresent

[14]S.SinghandS.Jaiswal,'TherapeuticPropertiesofFicusRegligiosa',InternationalJournalofEngineeringResearchandGeneral Science,2(5),149–158,(2014)

[10] C.P. Kala, P.P. Dhyani, B.S. Sajwan, 'Developing the medicinal plants sector in Northern India: challenges and opportunities', JournalofEthnobiologyandEthnomedicine,2,32–46,(2006)

[15]P.SaravananandG.Chandramohan,'EﬀectofChitosanandMordantsonDyeabilityofCottonFabricswithNaturalDyefrom BarksofFicusReligiosaLinn',InternationalJournalofRecentTrendsinScienceAndTechnology,9(1),72-75,(2013)

[8] B.Uma,K.Prabhakar,S.Rajendran,'InvitroantimicrobialactivityandphytochemicalanalysisofFicusreligiosaL.andFicus bengalensisL.againstdiarrhoealenterotoxigenicE.Coli',EthnobotanicalLeaﬂets,13,472-474,(2009)

[9] M.S.AKhan,S.A.Hussain,A.M.M.Jais,Z.A.ZakariaandM.Khan,'AntiulceractivityofFicusreligiosastembarkethanolic extractinrats.,JournalofMedicinalPlantsResearch,5(3),354-359,(2011)

[2] C. Balakumar, J. Kalivani, R. Sivakumar, 'Dyeability and antimicrobial properties of cotton fabrics ﬁnished with Punica GranatumExtracts',JournalofTextileandApparel,TechnologyandManagement,7(2),(2011)

[7] K. Roy H. Shivakumar S. Sarkar, 'Wound Healing Potential of Leaf Extracts of F.religiosa onWistar albino strain rats' Int. J. Pharm.Tech.Res.,1,506-508,(2009)

The rapid growth in medical textiles and their end uses has

[3] S. Panchawat, 'Ficus religiosa Roxb.(Peepal):Aphyto- pharmacological review', International Journal of Pharmaceutical and ChemicalSciences,1,435–446,(2012)

Raw materials play a vital role in the characteristics of the end product. Here, 100 % cotton fabric is used for this project, whose end use is shirting. This research work is carriedoutonsampleweavingmachineattextiledepartment of D.K.T.E Textile Engineering College Ichalkaranji. The materialwasmanufacturedandtestedonApril2021.

1. Introduction

Table 1- Fabric sampling

2.MaterialandMethod

Ramesh N. Narkhedkar*, Allowkika N. Patange & Shrihari S. Neje

Nowadays,thetextilemarketisfilledwithmanyvarietiesof fabrics.These have their own unique structure. Grey fabric hasanumberofissueswithitsappearance,butafterproper treatment, it can be changed into the desired one [1] Wrinkling and creases are common problems with cotton fabric, but in this case, the creases recovery rate is quick, whereas the wrinkles remain as it is and are difficult to remove so, these wrinkles can be overcome by the applicationofaresinfinish[1,2].Inthisway,onecansaythat by changing the properties of fabric along with their yarn properties, the aesthetics of fabric may be changed. Cover factorisoneoftheimportantpropertiesoffabric,andwhen fabricthreadspacingisaltered,therewillbeachangeinthe cover factor as well as in the fabric appearance. When the cover of fabric is changed, many changes come under this [3].Everyoneknowsthatoneofthemostimportantend-use performanceparametersoffabricsandothertextileproducts are the fabric hand and fabric aesthetics. Cover factor is a measure of how much of a fabric's surface is covered by a single set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two coverfactors:warpcoverfactorandweftcoverfactor,which gives the fabric cover when added together This cover dependsuponthreaddensityandthreadcount[4,7].Hence, taking different fabric samples having different covers, whichispossiblebyvaryingthethreadspacingofthefabric, and proper testing, will give the results. With these results, theeffectsoffabriccoverontheaestheticpropertiesoffabric

Inthisstudy,100%cottonfabricsampleswithsamecountbutdifferentcoverfactorsweremanufactured.Thefabricsamples were tested for aesthetic properties like tensile strength, tear strength, durable press rating, flexural rigidity, and crease recovery angle before as well as after the finishing process. This research work revels that, better crease recovery is achieved after resin finishing treatment for less covered fabric due to the easily removal of creases formed over the fabric surface,whichimprovestheaestheticsofthefabric.

Citation: Citation: Ramesh N. Narkhedkar, Allowkika N. Patange & Shrihari S. Neje, “Fabric Cover: An Important PropertyAffecting theAestheticAppearance of The Fabric”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/2 (112-117), (JulyAugust’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

As cotton is a natural ﬁbre, it can have good comfort properties, but at the same time, wrinkles are the main problemwithcottonfabric,soitwasdecidedtousethisasa rawmaterial[6].

Prof.(Dr.)R.N.Narkhedkar AssistantProfessor,DepartmentofTextile,D.K.T.E'STextile andEngineeringInstitute,Rajwada,Ichalkaranji–416115 Dist.: E-mail:Kolhapurrammesh.nn@gmail.com

Abstract:

ArticleReceived:15-12-2021,Revised:23-05-2022,Accepted:18-04-2022

2.1 Selectionofrawmaterial

Department of Textile, D. K. T. E'S Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, India

2.2. ManufacturingofFabricSamples

FabricCover:AnImportantPropertyAﬀectingtheAesthetic AppearanceofTheFabric

Atotal of three fabric samples of diﬀerent properties were manufactured on sample loom and those samples were denoted as S1, S2 and S3. Fabric sampling of the raw materialisdescribedinthefollowingtable.

Since the beginning, when the fabric was started to be manufactured in bulk quantity, there have been many changes that havetakenplaceinthefabricstructurebyvaryingthedifferentfabricparameters.Asinglechangeinfabricparameterscan createadifferentfabric.Inthismodernera,qualityplaysanimportantrole.Butatthesametime,thelookorappearanceof fabricalsohasequalimportance.Fashionhasbecomeabuzzwordinthefashionindustry Thefabricpropertieslikecrease resistance, wrinkle recovery, and durable press are related to the fabric's aesthetics. In this scenario, this study was conducted by changing the thread spacing but keeping the yarn counts the same to check the effect of fabric cover on the aestheticattributesoffabric.

Keywords:Count,CreaseRecoveryAngle,Coverfactor,DurablePressRating,Flexuralrigidity,Seamstrength

canbeobtainedwithinformativeconclusions.

*Corresponding Author :

Sr. No. Fabric Samples Count (Ne) EPI PPI Cover Factor 1. S1 60 86 84 17.66 2. S2 60 80 72 16.2 3. S3 60 64 63 13.84

before and

Figure - in

SamplesFabric

PercentageReduction 14.77 12.24 22.89 9.1 5 10.13

BeforeFinish 215.3 333.2 170.8 29.43 30 27.64

Figures 3-4 shows that, elongation also shows the similar trend like the tensile strength. This trend has been changed afterresinﬁnish,elongationpercentofS3sampleisreduced by10.13%whichismorethanothertwosamplesS1andS2. This is because, after resin ﬁnish yarn becomes rigid so the elongationreduces.

Withthesamecountof60sNe,fabricsampleswithdiﬀerent cover factors were manufactured By using the above manufacturedsamples,varioustestswereconductedandthe obtained results were analysed to ﬁnd the relationship betweencoverfactorsandfabricproperties.

S1 S2 S3 S1 S2 S3

With the use of following mentioned process parameters in table 2, resin ﬁnishing treatment is applied on the above manufacturedfabricsamples.

2.3 Testing

By statistical analysis it is found that before and after the resinfinishthereissignificantdifferenceintensilestrengthof allfabricsampleswhichisprovedbythe'P'valueof2.625E44and1.6645E-27respectivelywhicharelessthan0.05.

Table 2- Resin ﬁnishing process parameters

Beforeandaftertheresinﬁnishtotalsevenfabrictestswere carried out as per theASTM testing standards. List of tests andASTMstandardsforwovenfabrictestingisgiveninthe followingtable.

3. ResultandDiscussion:

ResinConcentration Temperature DwellTime(sec) (Mt/min)SPEEDMaterials Content(gpl) Chamber (°C) DMDHEU 40 Drying 1 140 30 (Catalyst)MgCl2 09 2 140 SILIGENPE 20 Curing 3 170 45 MRZHOSTAPAL 02 4 170 AceticAcid 0.3 5 170 SoftenerSilicon 20 6 170 7 170 8 170 No.Sr. TFabricesting TestingStandard Measurementunit 1 STRENGTHTENSILE ASTMD5035 11(2015) Kg f 2 STRENGTHTEAR ASTMD1424 09(2013)e1 gm f 3 STRENGTHSEAM ASTMD1683 Kg f 4 DPRATING AATCC124 Rating 5 RIGIDITYFLEXURAL ASTMD1388 14e1 mg cm 6 DRAPE ASTMD4032 94 PercentageDrape 7 ANGLERECOVERCREASEY IS6359:1971SP 15 Degrees

Table 4 - tensile strength and elongation after ﬁnishing process

Fabric

FabricTensile Strength FabricElongation

Figure 1- Fabric tensile strength

Reduction

Table 3 - List of ASTM standards for woven fabric testing

Abovefigure1revelsthat,aftertheresinfinishingthetensile strength of all the fabric samples decreases due to the acid treatment of cotton fibres. While the figure 2 shows that fabric sample with less cover factor has more percentage reduction in tensile strength. This is due to the combined effectoflessnumberofthreadsintensiledirectionandwith more resin absorption leading to the more cotton fibre degradationduringfinishing.

FinishAfter 183.5 292.4 131.7 26.75 28.5 24.84

3.1 FabricTensileStrengthandElongation

The manufactured fabric samples were tested for tensile strength and its elongation and the obtained results are tabulatedinthefollowingTable4.

tensile Strength

4 - Reduction in elongation % Fabric Samples S1 S2 S3 BeforeFinish

Figure 6 - Reduction in Fabric Tear Strength 79.6 65.94 108.47 83.2 72.36 120.83 4.33 8.87 10.23

PercentageIncrease

Table 5 - Tear strength of fabric samples before and after ﬁnishing process

AfterFinish 348.6

Figure

Abovefigure6revealsthatwithreductioninfabriccoverthe tear strength of fabric increases. This trend has obtained because, in case of less cover factor thread gliding effect is more and at the time of tearing of such fabric, other yarns from that fabric comes together and forms a bundle like structure which cannot be tear easily After the resin finishing, there is significant decrease in the fabric tearing strength because of acid treatment during resin finishing process.Beforefinish,thetearstrengthofS3sampleisgood and it is decreased by 20.73 % after resin finish treatment. Figure 7 reveals that, in case of Sample S3 the reduction in fabrictearstrengthishighi.e.,51.86%,thisisbecauseofits lesscoverfactoramongallthreeandhenceitabsorbsmore resin which could be the reason of more reduction in tear

The fabric samples were tested for CRA and the obtained resultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable6.

7- Fabric Tear Strength

analysis it is found that before and after the resin finish there is significant difference in tear strength of threedifferentcoverfactorswhichisprovedbythe'P'value of 6.9659E-51 and 6.8183E-46 respectively which are less than0.05.

AfterFinish

Thefabricsamplesweretestedfortheirtearstrengthandthe obtainedresultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable5.

Figure 3 - Fabric Elongation

Figure 724.27 855.73 2184.8 633.27 1731.8

Bystrength.statistical

Figure

Table 6 - CRAof fabric samples before and after ﬁnishing process

5 - Fabric Tear Strength

ReductionPercentage 20.73 26 51.86

3.2. TearStrength

FabricSamples S1 S2 S3 BeforeFinish

2.3 CreaseRecoveryAngle

FabricSamples S1 S2 S3

The fabric samples were tested for ﬂexural rigidity and the obtainedresultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable7.

2.4 FlexuralRigidity

Figure 8 - Increase in Fabric Tear Strength

BeforeFinish 75.73 86.8 92.97 AfterFinish 66.98 75.27 76.65 PercentageReduction 11 13.28 17.55

Figure12revealsthat,theseamstrengthoftheS3sampleis highest before ﬁnishing. This is because the least ﬂexural rigidity of S3 sample enhances the fabric seam strength.

Figure 11 -Fabric Seam Strength

By statistical analysis it is found that before and after the resin finish there is significant difference in tear strength of threedifferentcoverfactorswhichisprovedbythePvalueof 1.1086E-26and2.1403E-33respectivelywhicharelessthan 0.05.

Table 7 - Flexural Rigidity of fabric samples before and after ﬁnishing process

Aftertheresinfinishing,applicationofresinfinishresultsin increase in fabric crease recovery angle because the resin finishing leads to the cross linking of cotton cellulose molecules of and this results in to increase in fabric CRA. Before finish, the CRAof S3 sample is highest.The reason formorecreaserecoveryisthreadglidingi.e.,incaseofless cover factor fabric; the threads can easily glide so that recoveryishigher. Figure9revealsthat,CRAofsampleS1, S2 and S3 is increased by 4.33%, 8.87% and 10.23% respectively.Incaseoflesscoverfactorthreaddensityisalso lessandresinabsorptionismorewhichleadstoincreasethe formation of covalent bonds. Due to increase in covalent bonds,therateofcreaserecoveryismore.

FabricSamples S1 S2 S3

Figure 10 - Increase in Flexural Rigidity

ResinfinishtreatmentenhancestheFlexuralrigiditybecause there is increase in yarn rigidity after resin finishing which leadstoincreaseflexuralrigidityoffabric.Beforefinish,the rigidity of S3 sample is least. Before resin finishing due to highestcoverfactoramongtheallsamplesthesampleS1has moreflexuralrigiditybutlesspercentageincreaseafterresin finish as compare to other two samples. This is because of lessresinabsorptionofhigh-densitythreadsinthefabric. According to statistical analysis, there is a substantial difference in flexural rigidity of three separate cover componentsbeforeandaftertheresinfinish,asevidencedby Pvalues of 1.8065E-25 and 4.8016E-18, both of which are lessthan0.05.

Figure

2.5 SeamStrengthofFabric

Thefabricsamplesweretestedforfabricseamstrengthand theobtainedresultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable8.

Table 8 - Seam Strength of fabric samples before and after ﬁnishing process

BeforeFinish 62.98 26.7 58.59 AfterFinish 72.51 36.31 94.51 PercentageReduction 13.14 26.4 38 9 - Fabric Flexural Rigidity

The fabric samples were tested for fabric DPrating and the obtainedresultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable10.

BeforeFinish 54.83 48.97 38.65

2.6 FabricDrape

Table 9 - Drape of fabric samples before and after ﬁnishing process

DPratingofFabric

DPratingoffabric 2.5 3.15 3.5

PercentageIncrease 7.27 8.98 10.15

2.7 Durable-Pressratingoffabric

AfterFinish 58.82 53.37 42.57

However, it is found to be lowered by 11 % after resin finishing. After resin finishing treatment, sample S2 and sampleS3exhibitacomparabledecreasetrend.Thestiffness of all fabrics improves after the resin treatment, preventing seamdevelopmentduringsewing.

Figure 14 - Fabric Drape

Above Table 10 and ﬁgure 16 shows that, after the resin ﬁnishingprocesstheDurablepressratingvalueofthefabric increases with the reduction of fabric cover factor. This is because with reduction in fabric cover the resin absorption increasesresultingtotheincreaseincrosslinksbetweenthe cottonmoleculeswhichhelpsinrecoveryoffabriccreases.

3. Conclusions

Figure 12 - Reduction in seam strength

According to the findings, the tensile strength of cloth reducesasthecoverfactorfalls.Thisistruebothbeforeand after resin finishing. Fabric with a resin finishing treatment hasalowerelongationpercentage.Beforeresinfinishing,the

FabricSamples S1 S2 S3

Figure 12 - Reduction in seam strength

Table 10 - DP rating of fabric samples

Above Table 9 and figure 14 reveals that, the fabric drape increases with fabric resin finishing process due to the increased yarn stiffness. Figure 15 shows that after resin finishing, with reduction in fabric cover the percentage increase fabric drape is higher. This is because of the increasedresinabsorptioninlesscoverfactorfabric.

Figure 14 - Fabric Drape

According to statistical analysis, there is a significant difference in the fabric drape of three separate cover componentsbeforeandaftertheresinfinish,asevidencedby 'P'valuesof0.00086621and0.00367312,bothofwhichare lessthan0.05.

FabricSamples S1 S2 S3

According to statistical analysis, there is a significant difference in seam strength of fabric of three distinct cover factors before and after the resin finish, as evidenced by P valuesof1.3811E-16and1.5834E-17.

The fabric samples were tested for fabric drape and the obtainedresultsaretabulatedinthefollowingTable9.

[2]T.F.Cooke,J.H.Dusenbury,R.H.Kienle,andE.E.Lineken,“MechanismofImpartingWrinkleRecoverytoCellulosic Fabrics”TextileResearchJournal,24(12),(1954),1015–1036

[6]W A.Reeves,RussellM.H.Kullman,J.G.Frick,Jr.,andRobertM.Reinhardt,“StudiesontheDistributionofCross-Links inWrinkle-ResistantCottons”TextileResearchJournal,33(3),(1963),169–181

[3] Youngjoo Na and Behnam Pourdeyhimi, “Assessing Wrinkling Using ImageAnalysis and Replicate Standards” Textile ResearchJournal,65(3),(1995),149–157

tear strength of the fabric improves as the cover factor decreases, the tendency stays the same for after resin finishing treatment. With a lower cover factor, the fabric's creaserecoveryangleimproves.Fabricwitharesinfinishing treatment has a higher flexural stiffness. After the resin finishing process, the fabric seam strength decreases. The resinfinishingtreatmentimprovesclothdrape.Asthefabric cover factor diminishes, the cloth drape reduces. This tendency is observed both before and after resin finishing. ThefabricDPratingrisesasthecoverfactorisreduced.The sametrendisfollowedforthefabricsamplesbothbeforeand aftertheresinfinishingtreatment.

[5]J.N.Grant,R.S.Orr,R.H.Tsoi,andL.C.Weiss,“Strain-RecoveryPropertiesofWash-Wear-TreatedCottonFabric”Textile ResearchJournal,(7),(1966),642–650

[7]MargaretI.MortonandValerieK.Hanchar,“WrinkleRecoveryofFabricAssemblies”TextileResearchJournal,(3),(1972), 281–284

[4]M.L.Rollins,I.V Degruy,T P Hensarling,andJ.H.Carra,“AbrasionPhenomenain Durable-PressCotton Fabrics”TextileResearchJournal,(10),(1970),903–916

[8] M. Mollanoori, A. Alamdar-Yazdi, “Twist Direction Eﬀect on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabric” Fibres and TextilesinEasternEurope,20(3),(2012),48–55

References

[9]H.D.Weigmann,R.G.Scott,andLudwigRebenfeld,“RelationofFiberandFabricPropertiesinDurable-PressCottons” TextileResearchJournal,(5),(1969),460–470

[1] J.F KrasnyandA.M.Sookne,“CreaseRecoveryofFabrics”,TextileResearchJournal,25(6),(1955),493-498

Crochet is a craft that requires minimal materials to construct. The requirement is basic and easily available, a needle,yarn,andapatterninmind.Itistheversatilityofthe craft to make any modiﬁcation with ease that has helped it surviveintheindustriallydrivenworldtillnow.India'scall for'Vocalforlocal'cangiveimpetustohand-craftslikethese. Thiswillcertainlygiveaplatformfordomesticartisanstorestart their ventures, and the ones who are doing it will

Keywords:3Dstructure,crochet,crocheter,designs,entrepreneur

RevivaloftheLoopedFabric:CrochetingFlatto3DStructures

Citation:PriyaMittal&BhawanaChanana,“ ”, Journal ofRevivaloftheLoopedFabric:CrochetingFlatto3DStructures theTextile Association,83/1(119-127),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

Abstract:

1. Introduction:

nunsaround1860andthesecondonehasreferenceMr and Mrs. McCrae from Scotland being commissioned at Godavari delta mission in 1862, to teach women the art of crocheting [2]. Many early studies show that crochet was used for making products for Christian ceremonies and as prayermatsandcapsforMuslims.Eventhetraditionalattires ofDawoodiBohracommunitieslikejabbho(tunic)andijar (haremstylepants)werecrotched[3].Itisveryinterestingto notethatsincethencrochethasbeenspreadtoallreligions, andslowlyovercamethereligionbarasafactorinworking withcrochetorwearing/usingcrochetproducts.

ArticleReceived:22-03-2022,Revised:23-07-2022,Accepted:25-05-2022

Ms.PriyaMittal

As an outcome of interviewing women entrepreneurs involved in this craft, it was concluded that easy reach to the customer base via online networks has made selling products faster across various virtual platforms and e-commerce sites. Collaborationsamongorganizationsaremakingtheexchangeofviewsandideaseasier,this,inturn,hasbroughtcrochetto mainstream business. The pandemic has seen a surge in demand and production of crocheted face masks, headgears, tote bags, and other products. The marketing and retail strategies for a unique product have captured a big market share and holdimmensepotentialforfuturegrowth.

Crochet is derived from the French term Croche, meaning 'small hook', this is a kind of needlework in which loops of a thread, yarn, or strands of other materials are interwoven using a single hooked needle (crochet hook). This craft form has movedfromGrandmom'streasurestobeatrend.Crochethasreviveditselffromproductsofpersonaluseinflatstructuresto products of fashion in 3D structures. The process of crochet as well as crocheter has evolved over the years and more so in thelastdecade.Productdiversificationistakingplaceatamuchquickerpacei.e.fromloosecapes,andplatecoverstowellstructured bikinis, and, thongs, skirts, and so on. Now crochet has taken the forefront in home furnishing, apparel, and accessoriesforoneselfandhome.

School of Fashion Design and Technology, Amity University, Panvel, Mumbai

Thehistoryofcrochetisnotwellknown.Somesaythatithas its roots in cultures like Iran, China, and South America. Around the 19th Century, the craft got popular in Europe. There exist two theories of its establishment in India, ﬁrst saysitwasintroducedinNarsapur,AndhraPradeshbyIrish

The crochet lace industry has a very high potential for generatingemploymentforwomen,bothinurbanandrural locations, leading to foreign exchange earnings as well as providingacommercialangletoitfortoday'sentrepreneurial mindset. The women involved in the craft utilize their free timeforpursuingthisworkforsupplementingfamilyincome and derive creative satisfaction in their mundane working life.Womenartisanofthiscraftﬁnedtheworkrelaxingand thustakesthisupinitiallyasahobby.

Priya Mittal* & Bhawana Chanana

Figure 1.1: Shrug made using 20's cotton yarn. Source: Artisan 4

*Corresponding Author :

AssistantProfessor-III,SchoolofFashionDesignand Technology,AmityUniversity,P.O.:Bhatan,Somathne,Bhutan Pada,Mumbai-PuneExpressHighway,Panvel–410206MS

Thereﬂourish.is

a school of thought about the origin of tambour embroidery which happened in India. In similarities, the Crochet hook is an Ari needle used in Uttar Pradesh and Gujarat states of India. During the 16th Century AD, Ari work of Gujarat was among the favorites of Mughal kings andqueens.Bythe18thcentury,ariworktraveledtoEurope viaPersiaandbecametambourembroidery Ari(alongthin toolwithahookattheendandawoodenhandle)isahookin Hindiandcreatesachainstitchasitmovesonthefabric[1]. Duetominusculerawmaterialrequirements,thishandicraft wasabletoﬂourishinIndiafromaveryearlyage.

Artisan4:KajalSingh,threeyearsintocommercialcrochet. Heknewcrochetingforthelast22years.ItMakesproducts

Artisan 1: Mrs. Aruna Mukundraj, has around 45 years of experienceinthecraft.Makesexclusivecrochetjewelrythat islightweightdurable,trendy,andcomfortableanditcanbe paired with casual or formal western and Indian attire. It believes that women love to wear unique and attractive jewelry ItownsapageAruniCo.onFacebook.Interviewed on19January2021,Mumbai,Maharashtra,India[5].

2.2Tools

The number of clients is increasing as Indian parents have more disposable income. Famous designers are promoting crochet nowadays. With Indian fashion designers such as Rinki Sobti, Shweta Gupta, and Kaveri Lalchand showcasingcrochetdesignsandcrochet-inspireddesigns,as well as entire outﬁts, as part of their collections at fashion weeks,thecraftisgainingappealamongthecountry'syoung. Ifayoungpersonisinterestedinanything,thereisnoturning back. To put it another way, no one can stop crochet from becomingmainstream.

2.MaterialsandMethods

From the 1970s through the 1990s, most children in India learned yarn crafts such as hand embroidery, knitting, crochet, and macramé during their summer vacations with their siblings. The second option was to use English languagebookswithwrittenpatterns,whichwasdiﬃcultfor the majority of Indian women with limited educational backgrounds. Nowadays learning a new craft does not require skilled elderlies around. The Internet is full of learningresourcesinformoftutorials,self-taughtvideosfor beginners, intermediate-skilled people, and experts in the craft of crochet. YouTube videos, blogs, Instagram pages, andFacebookareallﬂoodedwithinformationaboutlearning proceduresforcrochetanditscommercialviability Withthe adventofvideotutorials,languageisnotabarrierasonecan see,learn,improvise,rewind,orre-viewandadaptasmany timesasonewishesto.WomeninIndiatodayrelyonpatterns publishedbyothersandvideosavailableontheinternet.

Nowadays,withinternetaccessineveryhome,learningany craft is simple. There are several videos available on the internet for learners of various levels, from beginners to professionals. Access to worldwide sites such as Pinterest, Ravalery, and Crochet Cloud, among others, has made learningeasier Ifonebecomesstuckinapattern,receivinga responseissimplesinceotherartisansarehappytoguide.

3.Resultsanddiscussion

2.2.1 Secondary review is gathered from various online sites, journals, newspaper articles, magazines, and other handicraft-related e-commerce sites. Online resources are coretotheresearchoftheessay.

Threeartisanssaythattheylearnedfromtheirmotherswho were practicing the craft in their leisure time. One of them uses to practice with an elder cousin and got interested by seeing the beautiful edging made by her As part of the summer holiday activity, they were taught crochet. Interestingly one claims to have picked this craft from the females living next door Only artisan 2 learned from a NeedlecraftspecialcoursefromNirmalaNiketanCollegeof HomeScience,Mumbaiin1982.Someofthemweretaught thecraftatatenderageof10-12yearsandotherspickedup thecraftintheir20s.

2.1:SampleSelection

2.2.2 For primary data, semi-structured interviews were conducted with four women entrepreneurs with varying degreesofexperienceandexpertiseintheﬁeldofcrochet.

Artisan 3: Preety Arora, a computer lecturer turned thread artist.Startedworkingwithcrochetprofessionallyforthelast 5yearsasastressbuster,andnowmakejewelry,accessories, and home decor products Workshops conducted for mindfulnessandmeditationarelikedequallybychildrenand adults. It owns pages on Instagram and Facebook by the brand name of 'Creative threads by Preety'. Interviewed on 18 January 2021, Gurgaon, Haryana, India. The above artisans are Guinness world record holders,Artisan 1 and 2 botharetwo-timerecordholders[7,8].

Based on the information available, artisans today have realized and started exploring the multifarious nature of crochettechniquesasaformoffabricconstruction.Apparel forladies,asillustratedinFigure1.1,teenagersandchildren, accessories, home décor, footwear, headgear, custom created dolls, and children's apparel are presently a large business, with a value of 14.9 billion US dollars in 2019. With 375 million children under the age of 15, India has a hugeclientbase[4].

Artisan 2: Mrs. Preeti Goradia, is glad to choose crochet as herfull-timecareer.Eventodayafter40yearsinthisstream she feels that there is so much more to learn and explore. Believes that one should continue doing what makes one happyasthatisthebestwaytokeeponecontender Hasher Facebookpageandusesitonlytoprojectherworkandsells throughfriendsandoldclientsusingWhatsApp(+9198338 61762) Interviewed on 23 January 2021, Mumbai, Maharashtra,India[6].

FourartisanswerecontactedtwofromMumbaiandoneeach fromGurugramandHyderabad.Theentiresampleiswomen entrepreneursworkingwithcrochetproductscommercially

suchasslings,bags,clutches,cushions,wallhangings,tops, tees,babysweaters,shoes,jewelry,etc.Lovestoexperiment with yarns and crochet techniques and wishes to make a nameinhomedecor.Instagramhandleis@shopforcrochet. Interviewed on 16 January 2021, Hyderabad, Telangana, India[9].

Yarniswidelyavailable,thusonecanbuildexactlywhatthe customer wants. People are experimenting and want to try new things; however, they are still unwilling to pay a premium for a handcrafted item People anticipate a handcrafted item to be priced similarly to a factory or machinestitchone.

Cords such as Malai Dori, which is commonly used for Macramé in India, Bullet thread, and Jute cords are now in useforcrochet.Similarly,awiderangeofnaturalﬁberyarns andblendsareavailable,includingcottonwithzari(Balda), Zarithreads(seetheproductinFigure3.2),Greycottonyarn, thinjute,andthickjute,tomentionafew

Withsomuchyarnavailable,individualsareexperimenting with a variety of diﬀerent stitches, as compared to past periods when fundamental stitches such as chain, single crochet,doublecrochet,andincreaseanddecreaseinstitches were often employed. Fancy stitches like pineapple and Tunisian crochet were seldom used. With the quality and diversity of yarn available today, artisans has become more creative and have begun to experiment with numerous

There is a lot of material to play with in terms of color, texture, and range. Even international yarns, such as Ice yarns (A brand based out of Istanbul, Turkey), are now availableinIndia.

Figure 3.2: T-Lightweight holder with Zari (Metalic yarn)

Figure 3.3: Earphone case with granny square technique and viscose yarn. Source: Artisan 4

Previouslytechnique.,

The majority of the yarns used were natural ﬁbers such as DMC(Dyedmercerizedcottonyarn)yarninthe20sand40s count for producing home furnishing items and 2 and 4-ply woolenyarnusedtoconstructsweaters,platecovers,andso on.Artisan2recallsthatthicksilkthreadswereaccessiblein Ludhianawhenshewasateenager Themajorityoftheyarns usedpreviouslywereinlightpastelhues.Othercoloroptions includewhite,beige,andcream.

“The availability of yarns is fantastic these days,” adds Artisan4.Accordingtoartisan1,atwo-timeGuinnessWorld Record holder, the previous decade has been full of experimentation, with crocheted goods being built using whateverstrikestheeyeoftheartisan.

Source: Artisan 4

3.1Materialsused

Figure 3.1: Kids frock using 4 Ply woolen yarn and double crochet technique. Source: Artisan 2

Materialprocurementisnowquitesimple,yarnwassupplied from Chennai, Pune, Hyderabad, Delhi, and Mumbai throughout the lockdown time.Avariety of yarns are used sinceeachhasitsspecialtyaswoolenandthickcottonyarn, whichspeedsuptheworkandsavesmoneyonlargeprojects, andthinyarnworklookslovely,delicate,andexquisite.Silk yarnsmustbedrycleanedonly,thustheyshouldonlybeused forlow-maintenanceprojects.Polyesteryarnsareutilizedin applicationsthatneedahighlevelofglossanddurability

3.2Stitches

Wool is not new to crocheters but branded and unbranded woolen yarns such as Ganga wool, Vardhaman wool, and babywool,whichisincrediblysoftasseeninFigure3.1,very thin,thick,toshimmeringwool,haverecentlybeenpopular Theacrylicyarnhaslargelyreplacedwoolinmostitems.Silk threadsandjutesilkyarnaretwomoretypesofnaturalﬁber yarn. Cobbler thread, extremely thin plastic wire, twisted embroideredyarnwith2-3strandsinterwoven,Chenilleyarn (velvetyarn),polyesterthreads,multi-colormixthreads,and fancy yarns like slub are some of the more experimental yarnsusedbyartisans.

If one looks at the basic stitches like single crochet, double crochet,andchain,thereisn'tmuchchange.Tunisiancrochet sweaterswereformerlypopularinIndia,aswerelacyblouse sleeves and home décor items done with single and double crochetstitches.Someﬂatarticlesweremanufacturedinthe formofcirclesandsquares.Increaseanddecreaseconcepts werealsotaughttoshapethepiece.Filletandgrannysquare was the most popular edge stitches. Other edgings were created with delicate cotton threads in the Irish crochet

books in English, Hindi, Gujarati, and Marathi were available in India. There were weekly tabloids in Gujarati newspapers, and Fevicryl books contained crochet and knitting designs. Imported books were accessible in bookstores in Mahalaxmi, Mumbai, and Connaught Place, Delhi about 1983, to mention a few.With the advent of the internet,manyindividualsinIndiahavebeguntoexperiment with novel combination stitches such as Corner to Corner (C2C),pinwheelcrochet,Bavariancrochet,etc.

Approximately 45 years ago, crochet was conﬁned to basic clothing,mostlyforchildren,suchasJhabla(babygarment popular for both genders), frock (Figure 3.4), jumpers, mittens,booties,beanies,hats,andsoon.Homedécorgoods suchastablemats,tableware,coasters,andsoon,aswellas utilityitemssuchaspursesandsweaters,werebeingmade. People were content with what they were producing.There were a few specialist stores that sold woolen clothes that were primarily knitted and seldom crocheted. Artisan 3, claims that under her mother's inﬂuence, she made a lot of handkerchief edging, cushion covers, bed covers, and centerpieces for tables, telephone covers, TV covers, and tablematswithonlywhiteandbeigecolors.

3.3Products

combinationstitchessuchasgrannysquare(asseeninFigure 3.3), mochila (Tapestry), C2C, and a variety of cluster stitchessuchasbobble,puﬀ,andsoon.Thereisalsoalotof useofthefrontandrearloops.

Artisan 2 has been making products for brides and grooms since 2003, including varmala (Indian wedding garland), antarpat(thecloththatblocksthecouple'sviewofeachother at the beginning of the wedding ceremony), shoes, mindal (sacred red thread with beads tied on the hand of the Bride and Groom), sweet trays, tray, thal posh (Plate cover), chappal(Slippers),mojari(Ashoewithaclosedupperanda dramatically upturned toe), baskets for fruits, dandia (bamboosticksinbrightcolorsusedofdancinginGujarat), etc. Products made as oﬀerings to God include nariyal (coconut), Haldi (turmeric), and supari (betel nut). “You nameit,anditcanbeconstructed,”saystheartist.Ifafamily so desires, artisan 2 may create matching themes for bridal and groom's family members such as laces, saree borders, blouses,bangles,earrings,keychains,keyholders,garlands, andsoon.ForeventssuchasGanpati,thisartistcreatesaarti kithali(plateforprayingtoGod),haar(neckpiece)foridols, andotheritems.

2,theﬁrstcrochetobjecttaughtin1982 ataspecialneedlecraftschoolwasadreamcatcher,followed bylampshades,tablecovers,patches,andtablerunners.Her ﬁrstexhibition,heldin1985,featuredgoodssuchaspillows, cushions, and key chains. Soft toys such as balls, two-way

Thetechniquehaschanged,butthescoperemainsenormous. Simplestitchessuchasdoubleandsinglecrochet,aswellas Grannysquares,arebeingemployedsincetheyaresimpleto produce and artisans can see the results of their eﬀorts. Peoplestillwantvariety,butatacheapprice,whichcanonly be achieved with thick yarn and easy techniques. Diﬃcult designsneedmorework,resultinginahigherproductcost.

Figure 3.6: Long neck piece using multi-colored Zari yarn. Source: Artisan 3

dollswithawealthylookononesideandapoorlookonthe other, Humpty dumpty, and rabbit were also exhibited.The artistlearnedatthetimethatpeopleliketobuysmalleritems rather than large items at exhibitions. In 1994, the cost of manufacturing one torang was as low as twenty rupees, which included labor, yarn collection from the shopkeeper, anddeliveryoftheﬁnalproducttotheshopkeeper/retailer.

Source: Artisan 2

Around1998,exportersweretakinglargeordersbutpaying supercheapprices,suchas5rupeesforaphonecoverand25 rupeesforastole.By1999,artisanswerealsocreatingyolks, saree borders, petticoat borders, bedsheets, dresses, kurtas, and other garments. Sweaters, women's tops with granny squaremotifs,asseeninFigure3.5,frocksforchildren,and otheressentialitemsforchildren,suchasblankets,mittens, booties,andsoon,werealsocreated.Bedsheets,underwear, pants,skirts,tapes,edgings,andpatchesondenimpantswere beingmadeforexport.

Figure 3.5: Ladies' top made using Granny Squares.

Figure 3.4: Frock, booties, and cap (Baby set) in 3-ply woolen yarn, a standard gift for kids. Source: Artisan 2

Theseproductshavelimitedappealtoachildaged10dueto the yarn color and also size of the projects. “I don't think peopleweresellingforbusinesspurposes;Ithinktheywere simply creating for personal use and gifting purposes,” the artisan recalls from her childhood Other recollections includegrandmamakingpetticoatlaces,abra,andatotebag, whileherneighborscreatedentirebedsheets,sofasets,and chair covers out of simply white yarn. Crochet, like many handcraftedskills,takesalotofefforttogetproficient.This artistattributesherneatnessandefficiencyofconstructionto her

Accordingprofessors.toartisan

Mostentrepreneursdoexhibitsonceortwiceayearintheir localregionduringholidayseasons,butthepresentepidemic

Forsixyears,thenotionofmakingrakhi(holythreadtiedtoa brotheronRakshaBandhan)hasbeenpopularinIndia,and theartistfeelsthatothershavebeeninspiredbyherworkand havechosentomakecrochetrakhi.Stuﬀedtoys,Amigurumi, jewelry, silk with zari (metallic yarn) neck pieces (Figure 3.6)withadditionalpendants,andMandalasinhula-hoopare carving a path into clients' hearts and homes. Larger items, such as a table cover or a table runner, are more expensive. Thereforetoreducecostpatchesofcrochetwereaddedtoa baseclothandanedgingwasaddedtoﬁnishthetablelinen. Until around 6-8 years ago, moms or older ladies would remark,"Oh,thisIcanmakeforyou,"andwouldnotlettheir childrenpurchaseitemsfromstallssetupatexhibits.

The Indian market is becoming more informed, and consumers are requesting handcrafted items by sharing images from the internet and asking whether they can be replicated.Productsforhomedécorwithafreshdesign(see Figure3.7)arebecomingmorepopular.ChinaandThailand are selling at extremely low prices on the international market. It could be due to the availability of low-cost labor and raw materials. Semi skilled labor in India is not inexpensive,especiallyinandaroundmajorcitieslikeDelhi, Gurugram,andMumbai.

3.4PastPresentFuture

Peopleobtainagreaterpriceinposhareasofmetrocitiesif the goods specify "hand-made." Individuals are working at reallycheapwagesonlytoacquiretheorder Jaindeﬁnesfor a long time, that local markets were overlooked since there was so much export demand, but with Prime Minister NarendraModi's“VocalforLocal”program,alotofmarket potentialisbeingenvisioned.[12] “Thecrochetindustryis growing and will only grow with more helping hands; as a solo worker, the cost increases if one tries to make a livelihood out of it,” says Preety, a Delhi based businesswoman and Guinness World Record holder in crochet.

Crochetisgrowingpopularamongyoungerpeoplewhoare learning to enjoy it despite their lack of knowledge of the craft. People of today do not believe that the work is handcrafted since it is so tidy “Making the younger generation aware of the art by projecting it and commercializing it is the key to future business success,” saysartisan1,atwo-timeGuinnessWorldRecordholderin thesametrade.Newideasandconcepts,likewallhangings, might play a signiﬁcant role in the future of crochet Nowadays, everything you can think of can be done. Companies likeAjooba expanded into a range of caps and benniesduringthepandemicera.

Clients send photos to the artisan for reference, and the artisan searches for patterns and goes about making them. Women entrepreneurs are going one step at a time from bennies/hatstodollsoronecansaytheygobythedemand from the client.[10]. The product category for children's apparel has expanded with the addition of double-breasted jackets with hoods and crochet sweaters with simply a crochet appliqué design. Other items made include pothali bags and scrunches, which are oﬀered to shopkeepers and consumers. Dresses made from a combination of crochet patchesandclothareanothertypeofproductmadeinIndia.

Crochet was almost extinct at one point since there was no demandforitandonlyoldladieswereinterestedinlearning. Crochet experienced a period of stagnation between 2002 and2008,whenonlytoran(adecorativedoorhanging),thall posh (plate covers), and home furnishings were produced. Sales took place exclusively during the festival season, which lasted three months, from Ganesh Chaturthi (Lord Ganesha'sbirthday)throughDiwali(thefestivaloflights).

Evenforcrochetlessons,allstudentsareabovetheageof50. Younger generations still feel it is a waste of time because peoplearetoopreoccupiedwiththeirphonesanddonothave enoughsparetime,andthatworkingonalaptopwouldallow themtomakeﬁvetimesasmuchmoneyasacrochet.People aremissingoutonthejoyofmakingthings,whichmayhelp themrelaxanddisconnectfromtheoutsideworld.Crochetas akindoftherapyisgainingpopularityinIndia.Crochetisa fantastic method to produce dopamine, which is our body's naturalantidepressant[11].Preetyteachescrochetcoursesin andaroundDelhisinceitisrelaxingduetotherepetitionand calmingofthenerves.

Peoplearechoosingtoconstructcostumesandoutﬁtssince there is a wide selection of yarn available. Proud crocheter adds that making a lehnga (Skirt), choli (Top), and chunni (Veil)forateenagerwasahighpointandthatfromthenon, signiﬁcant orders for clothing for both children and adults wereafrequentoccurrence.

Figure 3.7: Wall Decor using Zari (metallic yarn) and white cotton using pineapple stitch. Source: Artisan 3

Currently, products such as tea coasters, table mats, hats, sweaters, and socks are becoming obsolete, so people have begun to create fresh products and have realized the versatility of the craft, which can be molded into any form and made into anything, emphasizing its customizable uniqueness Woolen product orders are largely for outstations,namelyinthenorthofthecountry,aswellasfor travelabroad,personaluse,andgifting.

was 100 long neck pieces for a cousin in Sudan, who sold them at a premium price there,” artisan 1 explains.

Thisartistmaintainsthepricecheapsothatmorepeoplemay buyitandevenpersonalizeitforthesamepricetoincrease salesandraiseawarenessofthiscraft.Thereisahighdemand forsilkthreadneckpieces. Peoplepurchaseforthemselves aswellasfortheirpeers.

Clients'attitudeis"Iampaying,andIwantwhatIordered," saysartisan2,aMumbai-basedcrochetdesignerforthepast 27 years. They are quite particular about the precise color,

Clients aged 25-60 years old, in general, look for larger piecessuchasblouses,tops,tablecoverings,andsoon.This may be attributed to an increase in purchasing capacity, changingtastes,andsoonwhenonebeginstoworkandfeels theneedtospendonsophisticatedthings.Matureconsumers probably end up purchasing items for their homes as a necessity,whichareslightlymoreexpensive.

Previously, crochet work was not done very regularly for commercialsellinginthemarket,oronemightsayitwasnot easily available to clients, and everyone in India had some acquaintance in extended families, distant relatives, and elderlieswhoknewcrochet.Oldergenerations(50+)areless comfortable with e commerce venues, particularly Instagram, thus sales are lower. Old clients are still loyal because they know the job and are aware of the artisans' potential,andtrustisakeycomponentinguaranteeinggood service at a reasonable price. Artisan 2 states that “Earlier there was less pressure in terms of yarn variety, color, and evenclientsusedtoassistsource”.

Themajorityofjewelrycustomersarebetweentheagesof15 and24.Theconsumerofthisagegroupiswillingtopay200 INRforearringsand600INRforawholeset,whichincludes aneckpieceandearrings,asshowninFigure3.8.

Figure 3.8: Jewellery set with simple crochet chain and glass beads. Source: Artisan 1

Clients nowadays are unwilling to accept even minor modiﬁcations or wait for their orders because everything is availableonlineorinstoresacrossthecountry.Peoplewant theirorderswhentheywantthem,andnodelayisacceptable, soArtisan4startedcreatingandplacingthemonline,andshe isnoteagertocustomizationofproducts.

3.5Changesinclients

WhileworkingontheGuinnessrecord,anattemptwasmade to create preliminary films of 1-2 minute duration in Hindi andMarathitoassist peopletounderstandthecomplexities of the craft. People still find it difficult even though a lot of workhasgoneintoteachingalotofwomentocompletethe large orders received by the artisan with over 45 years of crochetingexpertiseandaprofitablebusinessforthelast12

haslimitedthemtointernetsalesandrepeatpurchasesfrom existingclientele.Duringthelockout,Facebookliveevents were held to showcase the newest works and entice consumers.

yarntype,andexactcopyofwhatisviewedontheinternet.“I wanted to create something unique and began producing necklaces,asseeninFigure3.9becausenothinglikethiswas Myavailable.ﬁrstorder

Figure 3.9: Neckpiece with loops and beads using synthetic yarn for college-going girls. Source: Artisan 1 3.6 Crochetasaprofession

Anotheryears.

Artisan 2 used crochet to recover from a paralytic attack in bothherhandsandlegsin1993.Afterrecovering,thedoctor advised the patient to do whatever would help her recover faster, and she began crocheting professionally in 1994. Duringtherecoveryperiod,alotofstuﬀwascreated,thusa decisionwasmadetoselltheproductsandearnsomemoney. Artisan 1, after learning the skill as a youngster, produced socks,dresses,andotheritemsforallfamilymembers.Itis started doing crochet professionally at the age of 25 after getting married. Initially beginning with crochet lessons in Chennai, many people appreciated her skill but were intimidated by crochet or knitting, believing it to be an extremelydiﬃcultcrafttoacquire.Later,afterrelocatingto Delhi, because of the availability of woolen yarn, a lot of crochetwaspracticed,sinceitiseverycrocheter'sdreamto beinaplacewithaneasyandplentifulyarnsupply

storygoesthattheartistbeganhercrochetbusiness approximately 7-8 years ago, shortly after giving birth to a baby girl Previously, the artist worked as a computer professor and considered taking up a hobby while babysitting. After viewing exquisite yarns at the Chandni Chowkmarket(OldDelhi,India),herartisticimpulseswere piqued.Shechosetoacquirethehooksandyarnrightaway, and she's been working with delicate zari and silk threads ever since. People liked it, and sales began to occur. For a limitedperiod,perhaps3-4yearsago,aneﬀortwaslaunched toteachcrochetatanNGO.Thusaworkworkforceisready

In 2018, Ajoobaa, a Haryana-based business for children's apparelincrochetwasstarted.Theirbusinessmodelincludes bothi.e.B-2-BandB-2-C.Ajoobaageneratedaturnoverof 1.4croresinMarch2020.[13] Sellingbothfordomesticand internationalclientsthroughtheplatformsavailableinIndia likeIndiaMart,Flipkart,Myntra,andAmazontonameafew.

An intriguing aspect of this artist's work is her belief in charitabledonationsusingcrochetitems.Crochethashelped createalotofmoney,thereforeit'saniceideatodonate,says the artist. Some contributions include two hats for each newborn infant and one scarf for the mother at MiraBhayandar Municipal Hospital (Mumbai, India), knockers forbreastcancerpatientsatTATAInstitute,andotherladies, andotheritems.

and can get the work done through them if a big project comesup.

Withthelock-downsituationandstay-at-homeoption,alot ofwomenhaveoptedforseveralhandcraftsasahobbyand crochet is one such easy option. On Instagram, there are pageswithasmanyas4millionpostsandcounting.Crochet is being projected as a means for social empowerment of women,asabusinessopportunity,andmajorlyasanactivity forpersonaldelight.MotherIndia'sCrochetQueenshasover 6,000 members across the globe, being a 3-times Guinness worldrecordholder.Theystartedalockdowninitiative“165 stitches in 165 days”, where participants are expected to make a square piece that can be used later for designing a bigger article. [15]. All this suggests that crochet has now started to go up on the popularity index after seeing g decreaseininterestfrompeopleinitially

3.7 Potential

Figure 3.11: Choker with pendant and glass beads in silk yarn. Source: Artisan 3

Insightsfromartisansspeakofabrightfutureandacreative strategytokeeptherouteofcrochetinIndiaontrack.People use yarn depending on the qualities required. Zari yarn is used to make a strong neck piece that drapes nicely around the neck. For a lengthy neckpiece that must conform to the wearer'sﬁgure,arayonofpolyesteryarnwithahighlusteris used,asshowninFigure3.11,andthedetailscancontinue. With so many online companies sending yarn from around thecountry,sourcingyarnhasbecomeeﬀortlessandhasslefree. Even during the shutdown, ardent crochetershad little trouble getting yarn because they were able to order yarn locally as well as from Hyderabad and Delhi, to mention a few places. Online sites like India mart, Amazon, Pradhan embroiderystores,Yarn kart,Vardhamanknittingyarn, and manymorecatertodelivery

Thereisalotofvariationintheuseofsinglecrochetwiththe buildingof3Dstructuresintheformofsofttoysforkidssuch as dolls, animals like dogs, monkeys, turtles, sheep, frogs, andsoon.

They construct pullovers, baby s, hoes and bootheadbandsbands,jhabbla(frockforaninfant),frocksfor girls, and pants for boys just to name a few. They were majorlyintowinterwearforkidsbutrecentlyventuredinto summer wear for kids as well 'Happy Threads' was establishedin2016,intheﬁrstyearitself,over2-lakhﬂoral bookmarks were crocheted by the association of women artisansandcirculatedbytheorganizationthroughaseriesof coordinatorsandvolunteers[14].

Withvideosthatshowthebeautyandsimplicityofbeginning a crochet company. The ease of taking up crochet as a businessoptioniseasy Theidealpricingstrategieshelpthe artisansgainsomeideasofhowtheyshouldgoaboutbeing commerciallyviable.Thevideoalsodiscusseskeythingsto keep in mind for increasing sales, calculating wages on hourly bases, and ascertaining material costs and details of howtoreachtheﬁnalsellingprice.[16].

Crochetallowsforasmuchvarietyorinnovationastheartist desires.Itwilltaketimeforanyvariationtobecomeastrong selling feature. Previously, people believed that because crochetjewelrylacksdiamonds,pearls,metal,andgold,no one would wear it or pay for it (see Figure 3.10), but with time,alotofacceptancehasbeenshown.

Figure 3.10: Choker in cotton knitting yarn using only a single crochet technique. Source: Artisan 3

Frames have a bright future in house furniture, ornamentation, and interior design Home accessories, chandeliers, and hangings for the inside or outdoors. If the ﬁbers are altered, the possibilities for crochet items are endless. Unlike knitting, it is quite adaptable. People are willing to buy; therefore there is a lot of opportunity in the homemarketaswellastheinternationalmarket.

Working with over 30 ladies from underprivileged regions, thisartistisassistingwomeninearningextramoneythrough regular orders and good pay As orders come in throughout the year, the company ends up making a lot of money (becauseofeconomiesofscale).

Withtheavailabilityofhigh-qualityyarn,Indiancrocheters are focusing more on adult garments, tops, and lehengas (skirts). Jewelry with or without beads and pendants is a popular item among young people. Earrings (Figure 3.12), bangles,neckpieces,andankletsarebecomingincreasingly

The interesting part is that the client age ranges from as youngas15yearsold,whoisinterestedinjewelryandlowcost products, to a 60-year-old lady who is interested in productssuchasgarlandsforgodsandgoddesses,coversfor

These women are now selling their creative items from the comfort of their own homes via sites such as Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp, or personal proﬁles and live presentationsonvirtualplatforms.Contactingconsumersis becoming easier, but it does not imply that selling is becomingsimpler.Witheasyaccesstoknowledge,everyone is learning similar things and has comparable sources of inspiration, thus competition in the market is quite intense due to similarity in product variety. What distinguishes products nowadays is their innovativeness, inventiveness, and out-of-the-box thinking, whether in terms of design, productlineordistribution,ormarketingstrategy. Products withinnovationsindesignandyarndiversity,suchasT-light holders (see Figure 3.13 inserted), Stoles (see Figure 3.14), shawls, coasters, and so on, are gaining popularity. If the artisan can advertise at the appropriate moment to the right people, the business will succeed When you achieve popularityonavirtualplatform,theclientﬂowbegins.

Figure 3.13: T-light Jar cover with cotton knitting yarn and bobble stitch. Source: Artisan 4

Pfashionable.reviously,

Figure 3.14: Shawl with ombre eﬀect and a ﬂoral edging in double treble crochet stitch. Source: Artisan 3

Thereisadisadvantageaswell;oneofthefactorslimitingthe bright future of crochet in India is cost. Few merchants are sellingwellbelowmarketpricestokeeptheclient.Asisthe case with many trendy items, there are far too many imitationsonthemarket.

Figure 3.15: Multicolored vertical stripe laptop bag in double crochet technique. Source: Artisan 2

Amarket.rtists

Figure 3.12: Loops with beads in double crochet stitch. Source: Artisan 1

As a result, the items are identical, resulting in fierce competition. Even with superb design and personalization possibilities,manyfindtheproductcostlyandarehesitantto purchase it, which is a hindrance because crochet is still a hand-crafted product. It is a win-win situation if something fresh is offered to clients, who will then purchase and understandthevarietyofcrochet.

may use patterns and designs found online Experienceandpatiencearerequiredtocreateadecentand neat selection of items ranging from children's products to utilityproductssuchascoversandbags.Coversforlaptops, asillustratedinFigure3.15,books,mobilephones,andsoon arealsoconstructed[17].

Peoplefeelhappybuyinganynewobjectonthemarketwith the option of 100 percent customization, such as length, width, or both, color, texture, stiﬀness, or drape, but as the designgrowsolderormorecommon,thepriceonewantsto paydecreasesastheoriginalityfades.

LordKrishnaandGanpati,andtheirmainattractionisgifts forgrandchildren.Thiswideagerangeofclientsopensupa plethoraofdesignandproductpossibilities.

crochet products were restricted to hats, sweaters,teacoasters,tablecoverings,andpetticoatedgings, with just a few well-versed artisans producing larger items suchasbedlinens.

Thesimplicityofstartingtolearnanewtradeisatanall-time high right now.At the novice level all that is required is to watch videos online and conduct thorough research on the types of equipment used, including hooks, stitch markers, stitchcounters,andyarns,aswellastheiravailabilityinthe

[15] Nainar, N. (2021). Crochet: a craft that we are hooked on to during lockdown. Retrieved 16 November 2020, from https://www.thehindu.com/life and style/crochet is one of the many crafts getting revived during lockdown/article31795534.ece

[4] Children'sWearMarketShare,Size,Growth,TrendsandForecast2020-2025.(2021).Retrieved15December2020,from https://www.imarcgroup.com/children-wear-market

References

made,deﬁnethecraft'soriginality Thegoodsmaybemade in a variety of colors, textures, thicknesses, and sizes; they areaﬀordabletoindividualsofalleconomiclevels.Crochet has and will continue to have an increasing worldwide Crochetappeal.

5. Conclusion

Sewing machines, embroidery hoops, knitting needles, crochethooks,andtie-and-dyehavecaughtindividuals'eyes as they got the time due to the epidemic. People have the opportunity to reflect on their lives and the paths they have goneorwishtopursue.Peopleofvariousagesareinterested in the so-called grandma crafts. [18]. Crochet is already popularduetothevarietyoftexturesandlooksthatmaybe achieved. It has taken off as a result of the pandemic. #crochetersofinstagram has 5.7 million posts and counting onInstagram.[17].

[1] Devaney, R. (2017, November 13). The History of Tambour Embroidery: from Brabanki, India to Lunéville, France. RebeccaDevaney.https://www.rebeccadevaney.ie/blog/2017/11/12/from-brabanki-to-lunville

[5] Mukundraj,A.(2020).arunico.Facebook.https://www.facebook.com/arunicoindia [6] Goradia,P (2020).Priti.goradia.Facebook.https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser [7] Arora,P.(2020).Instagram[Software].https://www.instagram.com/creativethreadsbypreety/ [8] Arora,P.(2020a).creativethreadsbyPreety.Facebook.https://www.facebook.com/creativethreadsbyPreety/ [9] Singh,K.(2020).Instagram[Software].https://www.instagram.com/shop_for_crochet/ [10]Dhanavanthan, A. (2021). WOI Feature: Anjana Dhanavanthan – Crocheter Retrieved 26 November 2020, from https://womenpreneursoﬁndia.com/2018/11/01/anjana-dhanavanthan/ [11]Wilson, J (2021) This is your brain on crafting CNN Retrieved 10 December 2020, from https://www.cnn.com/2014/03/25/health/brain-crafting-beneﬁts/index.html [12]Jain,A.(2021).IndianHandloomsandCraftsFaceaPandemicCrisis–#VocalForLocal?Then#BuyLocal.Retrieved4 January2021,fromhttps://eshe.in/2020/09/16/vocal-for-local/ [13] Norzom, T (2021). How this couple's crochet business has empowered homemakers and made over 1Cr in revenue. Retrieved 3 November 2020, from https://yourstorycom/herstory/2020/07/crochet women entrepreneur children apparel

Crochethasapromisingfuturebothindomesticandforeign markets. To maintain the interest of the next generations, engagingarticlesandcontinualinnovationarerequired.The potentialforcreatingawiderangeofgoodsisenormous.The methodissoﬂexiblethattheonlyrestrictionisthecreator's vision.Crochetwillassistthecreator'svisionifheorshehas one. The issue is that, although being unique and customizable, it is labor-intensive Some products are priceless,andartisansandcustomersshouldnotalwayslook for ﬁnancial viability Crochet has long been regarded as a creativemedium,anditisstillregardedasanowner'spride. The variety and distinctiveness of the objects that may be

This trade has witnessed a colorful period in which individuals practice it to ﬁll the creative void and gain joy from the activity done between everyday home duties and enthusiasm.Itisalsoanactivitydoneasacommunaltimeto spend afternoons in the company of other women folk.The time that witnessed the growth of modernization of the female labor force, with females becoming more active in academics and focusing on obtaining ﬁnancial independence,alsosawagradualfallinhomepracticeofarts and crafts such as hand knitting, and crochet, tatting, and macramé.The internet's boon and easy availability through cellphones,alongwithDIYculture,hasrekindledinterestin crafts.

[2] PrasadT.V.S,SriRamaKrishnaG,PrasadN.G.S.,“CrochetLaceIndustry:Narsapur”,IndianJournalofCommerceand management(IJOCAM)volume2issue3Dec-2014,ISSN-2348-4934(P),2348-6325(O)

[14] Mathew, A. (2021). This organisation is helping women artisans ﬁnd their inner entrepreneurs during coronavirus. Retrieved 10 January 2021, from https://yourstorycom/socialstory/2020/04/supermoms happy threads non proﬁt women-coronavirus

[16]Pak, M (2021) Crochet Business How To Start Your Online Shop [Video] Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhvmYUEO3fs&feature=youtu.be

is getting popular among people, according to Artisan 3. Upper-middle-class individuals prefer to buy her worksinceitismoresubtleandhaslessbling.

[3] CraftGossip, A , wolfe, j , & India, c (2021) CROCHET OF INDIA Retrieved 20 December 2020, from https://crochet.craftgossip.com/crochet-of-india/

, fr

Ÿ Gupta,S.(2020,November9).MacrameIndiaIsBringingCrochetBackInFashion&WeCan'tKeepCalm.LBB,Mumbai. https://lbb.in/mumbai/handmade-crochet-fashion-accessories-at-efbed6/

Ÿ 2 2 M e a's crochetverse Retrieved 15 January 2021 o https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/kochi/2019/nov/06/meet-meeras-crochetverse-2057561.html

Ÿ Creative Hive (2021) Handmade Crochet Product Pricing Tips [Video] Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXsvmEpqxiw&feature=youtu.be

[17]Amarnath,N.(2021).“WhenLockdownTookUsBacktoChildhoodCrafts.”TheEconomicTimes.RetrievedFebruary28, 2021, from crafts/going-forhttps://economictimes.indiatimes.com/industry/miscellaneous/when-lockdown-took-us-back-to-childhood--the-skill/slideshow/81257068.cms

Send to: jtaeditor@gmail.com

Ÿ Shetty,A.(2016,November16).Crochetdesignsmakeforaboldandfree-spiritedfashiontrendthisyear.HindustanTimes. https://www.hindustantimes.com/fashion and trends/crochet designs make for a bold and free spirited fashion trend this-year/story-3avVNabGvbp6qZJ3DRX8HL.html

Journal of the Textile Association (JTA) is open access bimonthly prestigious Peer Reviewed Journal. Blind Review Process is being followed to ensure the integrity of the blind peer review for submission to this journal. Every eﬀort is made to prevent the identities of the authors and reviewers from being known to each other. For this the reviewer should not be from the same organization as that of the author The author should submit three reviewers, which are related to the ield of the subject paper with full contact details and reasoning for suggesting this

Ÿ Dangor, M. (2020, March 9). Bring out your crochet hooks for one of spring/summer 2020's knottiest trends. Vogue.In. https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/crochet trend spring summer 2020 lakme fashion week shades of india shirya som.

Ÿ Borst Polino, M. (2021). Retrieved 20 January 2021, from https://www.counseling.org/docs/default-source/aca-acccreative-activities-clearinghouse/crochet-therapy.pdf?sfvrsn=6

1) Meet

Ÿ Newspaper,2021.'VocalforlocalshouldbecomemantraforeveryIndian':PMModi|IndiaNews-TimesofIndia.[online] The Times of India. Available at: every-indian-pm-modi/articleshow/77557766.cms><https://timesoﬁndia.indiatimes.com/india/vocal-for-local-should-become-mantra-for[Accessed25January2021].

Non-intextbibliography

JTreviewer.Awelcomes

Original Manuscripts, Research Papers, Review Paper and Case Studies from the researchers, academicians and business people all around the globe. Especially we are publishing new and emerging areas of Textile Science, Technology, Engineering and Management Your contribution of Research & Review Article is an honor for us. Follow the Guidelines.

[18]Jha, S. (2021). “Youngsters Take to Knitting, amid the Pandemic.” E Times. Retrieved April 28, 2021. https://timesoﬁndia.indiatimes.com/life style/home garden/youngsters take to knitting amid the pandemic/articleshow/82297862.cms

Journal of the Textile Association

Ÿ UNICEF Market Unique, award winning Artisan treasures (2021) Retrieved 3 January 2021, from https://www.market.unicefusa.org/?searchkeyword=India-crochet-tops

Ÿ Pathak, S. (2021a, January 13). Budget Shopper: 10 Online Stores To GetAﬀordable Decor Items ForYour Home. The Channel https://www.thechannel46.com/work/entrepreneurship/vocal for local highlighting passion projects turned into-ventures-by-women/

Ÿ Crochet:acraftthatwearehookedontoduringlockdown.ByNahlaNainaronJUNE10,202016:38IST

Call for Articles

Simon, S (

EstimationofTensileandTearStrengthofWovenFabricof DiﬀerentWeaveKnowingOneoftheBivariateData

With the increasing of population demand for fabric goes in hike as one of the basic needs of human civilization. Advancementoftechnologypeoplesareleanedtowardsfashiontrendswhichisfastmoving.Tobalancewithpaceoffashion demand manufacturers are also trying to supply those within a short notice. But all garment manufacturers are neither in position to meet all types of testing facilities with their own nor to spent sufficient amount of hard waste before making the final product. Our aim is to support garment manufactures to predict fabric mechanical properties before start up new product design. In this paper we formularize a mathematical tool for estimating fabric mechanical properties based on statistical correlation regression method. Study is undergone on two count, 40s & 60s flax yarn to make plain and twill weavedesigngreylinenfabriconautomaticrapierloom.Mechanicalpropertiestotestunderconsiderationaretensileand tearstrengthoffabricresistance.Thispapertriestoassociatedatainbetweensixvariants,twocounts,twoweavestructures andtwomechanicalpropertiesbuthavingsameaerialdensityandsamefabric.

1. Introduction:

Mainak Mitra*

machines before production in a cost-eﬀective way Our study involves in formulation of correlation, regression equation are of two prime testing parameter of fabric viz. tensileandtearstrength.

Abstract:

Inourpresentstudywearetryingtocreatebivariatedatalike, tensileandtearstrengthofplainandtwillfabricofdifferent countofyarnanddifferentGSMoffabric.Wehavedoneour experiment in the actual mill conduction in a state of art technology mill. The project was done by making of grey fabric of two different weave (plain and twill) from two differentcounts(40sand60s)intodifferentautomaticRapier loomunderambientatmosphericcondition.

TheproducedsamplesaretestedinQualityControllabafter properconditioningbeforethetesting.Datawerecollectedin ambienttestingconditionandrecorded.

Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Serampore Hooghly, Maulana Abul Kalam Azad University of Technology, West Bengal

Ms.MainakMitra

Keywords:Bivariatedata,Correlation,Estimate,Plain&twillweave,Regression,Tensilestrength,Tearstrength

Citation:MainakMitra,“EstimationofTensileandTearStrengthofWovenFabricofDifferentWeaveKnowingOneofthe BivariateData”,JournaloftheTextile Association,83/2(128-132),(July-August’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/

*Corresponding Author :

Fashionindustryismovingfastwithvarietiesofdesignusing different types of fibrous and non fibrous material. To balancethispaceofmovingfashion,apparelmanufacturers are continuously updating them with the production of differentvarietiesofdesignedfabrics.Butinourdaytoday lifesuchmovingfashiongarmentsarenotpreferabledueto thedifficultiesincareandrenovation.Basically,thefashion garmentsaremadeupofshorttermusedconceptbutcountry like India and all third world countries common people are using their formal dresses with the fabric having better durabilityandeasytowash.So,thefabricmanufactureskeep inmindduringfabricmakingthatthefabricshouldbegood resistanttowearandtear ButinIndiawehavevarioussizes ofindustry,ofwhichonlyafewhavingwellequippedtesting lab.Keepinginmindabouttheinfrastructureofsmall-scale industries, who are not in position to check the mechanical propertiesoffabricalltime,buthavingintensiontocaterthe premium market segment with their efficient product structure,wehavetriedtoformulizeanequationconnecting tearandtensilestrengthoffabricofdifferentweave.

Ourstudystartswiththeobjectivethattosupportsuchsmall size industry having fewer testing facilities to judge the fabric performance but to supply proper quality of fabric in domesticaswellasininternationalmarket.Wehavetriedto establish a relationship between bivariate data through statistical correlation and regression method, where testing one variate other can be predicted without using testing

Theprojectworkwasaimedtoanalyzethetensileandtearing strengthoffabricmadeupofthesamefibre(flax)withinthe sameconditionbutdifferentweavedesign.Inthisstudy,the mechanicalpropertiesoftwotypesoffabrics1/1plain&2/1 twillweavewereanalyzed.

The Textile Industry is always equipped with a good statisticalQualityControllabwithR&Dfacility.Testingof sample in a long run produced huge amount of hard waste which can't be reconverted into a usable ﬁbre state. In the statistical science formulation of proper tools can help to reduce evaluation of unnecessary hard waste as well as eliminatetimeboundstudyincludingengagementofCostly manpower. If we can establish a systematic mathematical equation involving diﬀerent variables it will help to assess oneofthevariablesofabivariatedata.

FlatX-7,VidyasagarNiketan,BlockEA,SaltLake, Kolkata–700064,WestBengal E-mail:mmmtech2013@gmail.com

ArticleReceived:02-06-2022,Revised:26-06-2022,Accepted:06-08-2022

40s Twill 109.22 9.64 60s Plain Tensile 1.8 0.0846

i. whether the data may reveal some association between thosevariablesornotand

40s Tear 45.28 7.5 9.64 +0.996 0.775

40s Plain 1.75 63.4 155.75

60s Twill 1.64 151.15 115.75

Count weave Mech. Prop. x σX σy

60s Plain Tear 122.71 8.75

60s Tear 98.26 8.75 11.5 +0.970 0.7380

For60s1/1plains2/1twilldesign

Inregression.shortcorrelationisconcernedwiththemeasurementofthe degreeoftheassociationbetweenvariableswhileregression is concerned with the prediction of the most likely value of one variable when the value of the other variable is known [1].

2.3Testingofsamples

60s Tensile 0.0105 0.0846 0.1272 +0.977 0.6498

40s Plain Tensile 1.75 0.0707

2.2Fabricmakingprocedure

Table 2 - Summary of Table for statistical data for mechanical properties of fabric

Count Mech. Prop Cov (x, y) σX σy r byx

40s Plain Tear 63.41 7.5

In general, when we Study some characteristics of one variable only it is easy to establish statistical conclusion aboutthatvariablebutwhensituationariseinwhichwemay havetostudytwovariablessimultaneouslylikexandy,e.g., Tensilestrength&Tearingstrength,ameasurewilldetermine how will a linear or other equation explains the relation betweenthevariables.Thisistheproblemofcorrelationand

b)SpeciﬁcTearStrength= (Tear Strength of warp wise+ Tear Strength Weft wise) / Fabricmassperunitarea

40s Twill 1.88 0.174

Thepurposeofthepresentworkdealswiththeformulation of regression equation of mechanical properties of twill weaveonthatofplainweaveonsamecount&sameGSM.

40s Twill 1.875 109.225 151.57

Duringthetestingofmechanicalpropertiesoffabric,wedid thetestbothwarpwise&weftwise.Forthesimplicityofthe data, we derive a new mechanical property incorporating both warp and weft wise result in a single property called speciﬁcstrength[2,3].

Both the fabrics were of diﬀerent weaves in same count havingsamegsmandsameyarndensity

GSMTestisdoneon,machineParamount,diameter=112[5, 6].

For 40s reed count was 44/2 and 60s and count were 50/2 bothhaving2ends/dent.

60s Twill 151.12 11.5 y

a)SpeciﬁcTensileStrength= (TensileStrengthofwarpwise+TensileStrengthWeftwise) /Fabricmassperunitarea

60s Plain 1.798 122.7 115.25

Count Weave Speciﬁc Tensile Speciﬁc Tear GSM

During study of two variables simultaneously like tensile strength&tearingstrengthoffabrictwoproblemsmayarise

In this study 4 different fabric sample are produced on PICANOL Rapier; Model: OPTIMAX 4 R; Type 102779.TheLinenfabricsmadeforourstudywasrestricted atgreylevel.Weusedtwodifferentyarncountas40s(L-111) and 60s (L-121) made from 100% flax fibre. For 40s grey linenfabricofepi45andppi47bothinplainandtwillweave. For60sgreylinenfabricofepi51andppi53bothplainand twillweave.Thefinishedfabricwidthis58”producedform 65”reedspacefor40sandthatof60”producedfrom67”reed spacefor60s.For40slinentotalnoofendsinthefinalfabric is2944andfor60stotalnoofendsinthefinalfabricis3440 includingselvedgeends[4].

2.MaterialandMethod

2.1SpeciﬁcStrength

Tear strength test is done on, machine James Heal, Model885 Elmatear Type Pendulum Elmendorf, Standard –ASTMD1424,Calibrationwt.=E(13555gm),no.ofsample =16(ineachdirection)

Table 3 - Table for bxy and byx

For60sloomno.ofhealdframeusedinthem/c=6

40s Tensile 0.0117 0.0707 0.174 +0.950 0.386

Tensile strength & Elongation test is done on m/c- SDL ATLAS,Type-GRABTest,Standard–ASTMD5034;2008, no.ofsample=16(ineachdirection).

For40s1/1plains&2/2twilldesign

X=plain&Y=Twill bxy=Cov(x,y)/σ2y=r.σy/σX byx=cov(x,y)/σ2X=r.σX/σy

ii. whether we are interested to measure numerically the strengthofthatassociationbetweenthevariablesornot

60s Twill 1.63 0.1272

For40sloomno.ofhealdframeused=4.

Tables: 1 - Summary of average speciﬁc values and average GSM

2.5 Estimationofoneofthebivariate-dataknowingother EstimateLet,ofyy'

[7] Md.Asaduzzaman,A.k.m. Mukibul Hasan, et.Al. Eﬀect of Weave Type Variation on Tensile and Tearing Strength of Woven Fabric, TechniumVol.2,Issue6

y=0.386x+1.1995, Where x= speciﬁc tensile strength for plain & y = speciﬁc tensilestrengthfortwill

3. It has been observed that 40s tensile strength is higher in twill,whichmaybejustiﬁedashigherstandarddeviation in twill than plain, i.e. higher range of maximum and minimumvaluecontributesirregularreading.Moreteston fabric property and corresponding yarn characteristics to bechecked.

[8]J.ThanikaiVimal,C.Prakash&A.JebastinRajwin,EﬀectofWeaveParametersontheTearStrengthofWovenFabrics,JournalofNatural Fibers·December2018

y=0.6498x+0.4717, Where x= speciﬁc tensile strength for plain & y = speciﬁc tensilestrengthfortwill

3.ChangingyarnCV,howtheyinﬂuenceonfabricstrength inthispredictiontobejustiﬁed.

y=0.775x+60.09

Y=0.7380x+60.5974, Wherex=speciﬁctearstrengthforplain&y=speciﬁctear strengthfortwill

[5]J.E.Booth,PrinciplesofTextileTesting:AnIntroductiontoPhysicalMethodsofTestingTextileFibres,YarnsandFabrics;Edition,3, ISBN:0408014873,9780408014878

1. Table 1 reveals that tensile strength is higher in plain structurethanthatoftwillduetomoreinterlacementinthe former.Betteryarntoyarncohesioneﬀectshighdegreeof strength.

4. FromTable 2, we see standard deviation of plain in both tensile and tear is lesser than that of twill. This can be

thenlinearregressionequationforestimateofyis y'-ȳ=byx(x-x)

[4]Dr M.K.TALUKDAR,WEAVING–MACHINES,MECHANISMS,MANAGEMENT,January1,2004,Ahmedabad,India:Mahajan Publishers,

4.Regressionequationofspeciﬁctearstrengthfor60splain &twillweave

explained due to weaker dimensional stability in twill. Plain fabric structure can contribute even resistance in everyreadingoftest.

5.Suggestionforfurtherwork

Wherex=speciﬁctearstrengthforplain&y=speciﬁctear strengthfortwill

2.Regressionequationofspeciﬁctearstrengthfor40splain &twillweave

1. Regression equation of speciﬁc tensile strength for 40s plain&twillweave

[2]HishamEEltayib,AkramHMAli,IsamAIshag,ThePredictionofTearStrengthofplainweavefabricUsingLinearRegressionModels, InternationalJournalofAdvancedEngineeringResearchandScience,Vol-3,Issue-11,Nov-2016

[6]PainterE.V.,ChuC.C.andMorganH.M.(1950),TestingTextilesontheElmendorfTearTester,TextileResearchJournal,vol.20,6:pp. 410-417

2.4 FormulationofRegressionequations

4.Thisisashortspanmathematicalmodel.Tomaketofull proof model extensive study and research to be performed withdiﬀerentchangingparameters.

Regressionequationofyonxis y-ȳ=byx(x-x)

2.Ourstudycanbeextendedtotakenewdataforplainweave of 40s and 60s count on tensile and tear and put it in the respective mathematical model of regression equation, the estimated value corresponding to twill weave is highly predicted.

2.Itisalsoshowntearstrengthintwillishigherthanthatof plain due to Del eﬀect, i.e. mobility of bunch of yarn is betterintwillduetocomparativeloosepacking.[7,8]

[1]NgDas,StatisticalMethodsCombinedEditionVol1&2,TataMcgrawHillPublishingCoLtd.

5 Table 3 show higher positive value of correlation coeﬃcient nearer to +1 signiﬁes degree of association of data for both tensile and tear strength in plain and twill structured fabric for each count are high and they are directly related, showing positive gradient of correlation straight line graph. i.e. a little change in any type of strength of plain structure gives sharp change in twill structureandviceversa.

References

1.Thestudyisrestrictedintwoparticularcount40sand60s. Countvariationofdatatobecollected.

3.Conclusion

3. Regression equation of speciﬁc tensile strength for 60s plain&twillweave

7.Theallfourregressionequationsformulatedforbothcount and both strength between plain and twill structure will help in prediction of newer value for unknown structure havingsameforaknownstructure.

2.Dataofdiﬀerentpopulargsmfabrictobecomputed.

1.Inshortifwetesttensilestrengthofplainweavedfabric, thenwecanpredictthetensilestrengthoftwillweavedfabric beforemakingthefabricpractically Similarly,ifwetesttear strengthofplainweavedfabric,thenwecanpredictthetear strength of twill weaved fabric before making the fabric practically The process can be extended for any kind of fabricandanytypeoffabricproperty

4.Summary

[3]JahanI,EﬀectofFabricStructureontheMechanicalPropertiesofWovenFabrics,AdvanceResearchinTextileEngineering,October20, 2017

6.From the table it has been shown positive regression coeﬃcientofallstrengthdataforbothtwocountshowing propercomputationofdata.

Dr.N.N.Mahapatra

7.Itdependsonthetypeofcleareranditssettingatwinding. Ithasbeenfound thatuseofcapacitortypeclearerfordyedyarns.isbetter

c)Washthecardwirewithpetrolonceinevery2days.

3.Apre-opening before blowing action will be better Maximum two Beaters (Pintypeonly)inblowroomafterpreopeningcanbeused.

b)IncreasetheCylinderspeedto480rpm.

Ifthereisproblemofhighshortcuts: ThemajorareaofactionshouldbeatBlowRoomandcard

Please go through the cuts report andafteranalysisfollowingstepscanbetakenorchecked.

a)IncreasetheFlatspeedto200to230mm/min

Dr Mahapatra is having 38 years of experience working in Textile and DyesmanufacturingindustriesinIndia andabroadinvariousseniorcapacities.

E-mail:nnm@shreepushkar.com

d)Checkthebadcardsandgrindthesame.

Dr.N.N.MahapatraisaB.Sc(Tech)in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, (now ICT), Mumbai. He also holds a M.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University, Orissa. He did hisM.B.AfromI.M.M.,Kolkata.

PresentlyProcessing).,he is working as Business HeadDye,ShreePushkarChemicals& FertilisersLtd,Mumbai.

Intheyear2007hewasalsoawardedC Col FSDC (U K ) and C Text FTI (Manchester).In2018hewasawarded the Fellowship (FRSC) from Royal SocietyofChemistry,UK.

e) Take card wise trial to identify bad cards and then these cards can be correctedquickly.

Nowadaysthehighautoconercuts have become very severe in Dyed ﬁbre spinning mills. Every time there is a tussle between the spinning department and ﬁbre dyehouse. In some mills this problem becomes more acute during rainy season .These problem can be solved by mutual consultation of Raw material, spinninganddyehouse.

ItisadvisednottouseanyLickerIntypebeaterinBlowRoom.Beaterpegsand latticeconditionsinBlowRoomLinetobechecked.

Hehaswritten8books(TextileDyes& Dyeing, Textile Technology, Textile Processing, Textiles & Environment, Textile Dyes, Sarees of India, Textile Dyeing and Modern Textile

1.Pleaselookintothefollowing:

ByDr.N.N.Mahapatra

2.InadditiontothistrialscanbetakenwithhigherLV-40butkeepingwaterat0.5 to1%only

Looking to more short thick faults, it appears that the opening of the ﬁbre is insuﬃcient. Toovercomethefollowingmeasuresaresuggested:

a)LickerIntofeedplate-40to50thou b)CylindertoFlat--12/12/10/10/10

2)Atcardtheopeninghastobeincreased.ItmaybenecessarytoincreasetheLI, CylinderandFlatSpeeds.WhenLiSpeedisincreased,itisadvisedtokeepThe FeedPlatetoLisettingat32to34thou.

6.ApronlifeatR/Fshouldnotbemorethan9to10monthsforIndianaprons.For Hokusinapronsthelifecanbe18months.

1) The dyed psf has to open by blender more intensely before layering. After layeringalsogivepreferably2blendertoppling.

Spinningdepartment

4.Cardsettingstobecheckedproperly:

3)2152Pisabindingagent,anditsexcessuseissuretoleadtomoreN&Sthick

5.Rovingtwistcanbeincreasedbyonesteptoreduceshortcuts.

Incaseofshort,youmustlookatcardingandsimplex.In case of long cuts, then D/F and S/F should be looked into.EnsurethatthereshouldnotbeanylappingatD/F andS/F?

Reason-Sobeforedyeingtheoligomersareremovedat130 degcunderalkalineconditions.

6.Arranging Lamp on simplex creel also may help. Four 1000wattlampoversimplexcreelwillbeenough.Also maintainatemperatureof31to32degreeandRHof46 to48%atspeedframewillhelpinrunningthis.

Step -2 - before dyeing treat the grey polyester ﬁbre with followingchemicals

If the dyeing is carried out at higher temperature i.e. more than 135 degree centigrade temperature the chances of oligomer generation are increased to a greater extent (safe temperature is 128 to 132 degree centigrade).So as to improve the performance of dyed polyester fibre in the spinning mills we feel Pre dyeing Reduction clearing with 0.5 GPLAfilanOR along with mild dosage of Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite (at 90 deg. temp. for 5 min) followed by normal post dyeing RC with 2 GPLAfilanOR along with normal dosage of Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite(at 90 deg. temp. for 10 min) will help to the spinnerstoimprovetheproductivityaswellasqualityofthe Thereyarn.

iii.

2.Addtheabovechemicals

1.Takeoneemptycarrierinthem/c

Steps

Ÿ Water-3%

2. The solution will depend on the type of clearer cuts in winding.Isitshortorlongcuts?

5.TheseasonisrainyandhencetheRHinthedepartment will be high. So the solution is to keep moisture in mixingnotmorethan0.5%andtheoilcontentinmixing should be increased This will help in running at Simplex.

4.IncreasingT.M.atS/Fandthiswillhelpinreducingthe cuts.ReducewaterandincreaseOILcontentinmixing.

FollowingandAugust.trialscanbetakeninpolyesterﬁbredyeing.

ii.

M/CCleaningProceduretocleanOligomerscalingfrom DyeingMachines

DYEHOUSE

Looking into more autoconer, cuts in Navy blue shades in 2/30,2/40P/VandP/AinSpinningduringthemonthofJune, July

3.Runatroomtempfor10mins

TRIAL-2

HTdrainat130degc ThenHotwashandneutralise

Causticsoda- 2%

9. AfterbuﬃngtreatthetoprollerswithCTCorUVlamp. Aliquimixtreatmentwillalsohelp.

2152P-0.15%

of machine cleaning is required because chances arethereoligomerdepositesinsidethepipelinesalso.

4. Raise temp to 130 deg c. and hold temp for 4 hrs, pump running.

6.Leaveitfor4-5hrs

- There will be improvement but time, steam chemicalcostwillgohigh. Ifestablisheditcanbeusedonly duringJune,JulyandAugust.

i.Strongdispersingagent-5GPL CAUSTIC-15GPL HYDROS-1GPL Non-IonicDetergent-0.5GPL

Step-1-monthlymachinecleaning.

faults Therefore please try following combination of overspray:

LV-40-0.50%to0.55

Time-30mins

Objective: Depending on the scaling of oligomer deposits inside the dyeing vessel, carrier holes are closed, white powder deposits etc then accordingly the type of machine cleaningprocedurecanbeselected.Ifpossibleonceawhile thepumpcanbetakenoutandseeifanyoligomerscalingis Suchthere.type

Thenstartdyeingasusual.

3. 44mm and 38mm ﬁber should not be mixed together? ThiswillcreatedraftingwavevariationatD/FandS/F Bettertogofor1.4X38mmﬁberforallthecomponents.

Temp-130degc

Reason-Oligomersgetdrainedoutat130degc.soifwedo two times more oligomers are removed which is good for Drawbacksspinning.

CompleteM/cCleaning(OnceaYear)

Sodaash-1%

7.Takeouttheemptycarrier

Another alternative can be tried to improve the working performanceinspg."Dark&HeavyDarkShades"

1. If the type of clearer in autoconer for Dyed yarns is of Capacitortypeclearers,then faultscanbecontrolled.

5.Stoppumpandheating.

8.Furtherstepscanbetakenasfollows

TRIAL–1

Monthlym/ccleaning ,thendyeingprocessasusualbutafter ﬁrst HTdrain at130degc andagainﬁllwaterandagain takethetempto130degc anddothesecondHTdrain.

Afilan liquid (Clariant) using in the clearing bath, it is observedthatsometimesthegreyfibredocontainOligomers (whichhastoberemovedbeforedyeingprocess)atthesame timethefibredyeingprocessitselfgeneratetheOligomers.

arealsospecialmachinecleaningprocessforoligomer descalingandremovalduringthedyeingprocess.

Chemicalstobeused

12.H.T drain

Totaltimerequired-18-19hrs.

RoutingCleaningonceaMonth

4. Holdfor1hrwithpumprunning.

19.Wipetheemptycarrier &insideofthedyeingvessel withhessiancloth.itwillshinelikeanewcarrier.

15.Neutraliseat95degwithaceticacid-2gpl.

b)Caustic-5Gpl

3. Raisetempto135degc.

14.Drain

12. Both the time wipe the empty carrier &inside of the vesselusinghessiancloth.Bothwillshinelikenew.

1.Takeoneemptycarrierinthem/c

9. Puttheotheremptycarrier

Totaltimerequired-7-8hrs.

8. Wipe the empty carrier & inside of the dyeing vessel withhessianclothitwillshinelikenewcarrier.

16.Drain

Chemicalstobeused

9. Coldwash

10. Unloademptycarrier

13. Hot wash at 95 deg c with non-ionic detergent -0.25 gpl,for10mins.

d)Non-IonicDetergent-0.25Gpl

c)Hydros-0.5Gpl

11.Againstartpumpraiseto135degcandholdfor2hrs.

6. Neutralisewithaceticacid-1gpl

18.Unloademptycarrier

Steps

11. Repeatthesameprocessfortheotheremptycarrier

a)StrongDispersingAgent-2Gpl

8. Hotdrain

7. Hotwashwithnon-ionicdetergent-0.25gplat90deg c.for10mins.

2. Addtheabovechemicals

17.Coldwash

10.Leaveitfor4-5hrs

5. H.t.drain

6.Periodicreviewofforexpolicy

Whatever hedging strategy you follow, there should be a clearly deﬁned stop loss policy That means that while following the existingpolicy,howmuchlosstheorganizationcanbearandifthe actual loss exceeds the benchmark for stop loss, one should completely hedge the risk and look forward to new avenues in future.

C. COSTofCredit

4. DocumentedRiskManagementpolicy

Forward premium payable if we book and forward contract on 1.8.22forpaymenton31.1.22isRs.1.50.thenthebenchmarkrate willbe79+1.50=80.50.

TheabovearetypicalcostswhichareincurredinForeignTrade. Proper management of these costs can bring savings which run intocroresofrupees.

2.Hedgingstrategy

B Benchmark rate For every transaction there will be a benchmark rate. This benchmark rate is calculated by taking the spotrateofcurrencyonthedateoforderbookingandbyadding the forward premium prevailing upto the date of payment. For example - Order date. 1.8.22 -USD/INR spot rate on 1.8.22 is Rs.79,Dateofpaymentis31stJan.

Management policy covers the following key points.

5.AproperMIS

Costofcreditisanotherkeycostwhichcanbringalotofsavings. There are various options available like Export Credit in Rupee, PCFCorFCNRloans.Supplierscredit,buyerscreditetc.

These costs include, transport cost of taking the goods from factory to port, sea freight, clearing agent expenses, marine insurance,ECGCchargesetc.

Author Mr M L Jhunjhunwala, is an expert in Forex ManagementandForeignTradeAﬀairs.HeisformerPresidentof RSWMandmemberofCOAofSRTEPCfor25years.Nowheisa freelancer

D.BANKCharges

It should be the endeavour of every organization to protect the benchmarkandifduringtheprocessifyouareabletosavesome moneyitisabonus.ObjectiveofForexRiskManagementpolicy istomitigatetherisksonaccountofcurrencyﬂuctuations.Making money in forex management can never be an objective but it is incidentaltoriskmitigation.

Onceabenchmarkisﬁxedthenwehavetomakeeveryeﬀortto protect the benchmark. Safest route is that on the date of order booking we calculate the benchmark rate and book a forward contract on the same day and freeze the risk. However there are organizations that are willing to take some amount of risks. For

1.ForeignExchangeRiskManagement

A.Riskbeginswhenanorderforexportorimportisbookedand endswhenthepaymentismade.Inbetweenthereisariskwhich has to be judiciously managed. There had been cases when companies did not manage the risk properly and they suﬀered heavylosses.

exampletheycantakeaviewthatwewillcoveronly75percentof ouroutstandingexposureandinbalancewewilltakeriskswhere theycaneithermakemoremoneyorloseheavilyifamarketturns against us. This strategy can be formulated depending upon the riskappetiteoftheorganization.

3. Stoplossmark

Theorganization.ForexRisk

Thisisanotherareawhereitisabsolutelynecessarytokeeptight control.Thebankchargesaretypicallybankchargesforhandling the export/import, courier charges for sending the export documents, margin charged by the Bank while doing an import exporttransaction.

Itshouldbeoutinplacewhichshouldcalculatenotionalgainsand losses which occurred due to following the policy Proper actual losses orproﬁtswhichhaveoccurredshouldbecalculatedatleast everyfortnight.

Mr.M.L.Jhunjhunwala FormerPresidentofRSWMandmemberofCOAofSRTEPC

Keeping in mind the areas mentioned in clause 1 to 3 a properly documented Forex risk management policy should be in place whichhastobefollowedconsistentlyoveraperiodoftime.

Today foreign currency markets are very volatile. Geopolitical situations like Russia Ukraine war, bombing of world Trade centre, surgical strike etc. adds to the volatility in forex markets. Fluctuationinthestockmarketshasalsoaddedtothevolatilityof forex markets. Today it is absolutely essential that you manage yourcurrencyrisks,asperaforexpolicy,documentedinwriting, which has to be followed consistently The forex policy is made keepinginmindcurrencyﬂuctuationsandtheriskappetiteofthe

The forex policy should be reviewed every quarter The MIS preparedshouldbeabasedocumentwhichwillshowifweareon therighttrackornot.Ifwearemakinggainswearerightandifwe are making losses we need to modify our policy. Normally there should be a committee consisting of CEO, CFO and Treasury Managerwhowillreviewthepolicyandmodiﬁcationswhichare felt necessary and such modiﬁcations should be properly documented.

Overaperiodoftimevolumesinexport and imports have increased considerably and accordingly risks have also increased Competition in global markets has intensified and thus in order to remain competitive it has becomeabsolutelyessentialthatyouhaveatightcontrolonyour costs.Youcansurviveoveralongerperiodifyourcostsareunder control Following are key risks and costs which are very importantinglobaltrade.India'smerchandiseexportduring202122hitarecordhighofUSD418billion.India'stextileandapparel exportwasall-timehighatUSD44billionregisteringanincrease of 41 percent in Textile Export in 2021-22 and 26 pc growth in Apparel exports. India has been making sustained efforts to increase its exports to keep the current account deficit at manageablelevels.Keepingyourorganizationfitintermsofcost controlisabsolutelynecessaryforincreasingexports.

Inmanycasesgovt.isgivinginterestratesubsidy.Thiswillalso decidewhichoptimumcreditrouteshouldbeadopted.

E.LOGISTICScosts

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized the Hybrid Lecture on “Improved Sustainable, Environment Friendly,GreenTechnologyforTextileDyeingusingSupercriticalFluid”atTAIMumbaiUnitOﬃceon22-07-2022,which waspresentedbyDr SwapneshuBaser,ManagingDirector,DevenSupercriticalsPvt.Ltd.

Mr RajivRanjan,President,TheTextileAssociation(India),MumbaiUnitwelcomedthespeakerandparticipants.

Mr G.VAras,Trustee,TheTextileAssociation(India),MumbaiUnitgavetheintroductionofthespeaker

Dr SwapneshuBaser inhispresentationsaidthatDevenSupercriticals,India(DSPL)hasdevelopedinnovativeSupercritical (SC)CarbonDioxide(CO2)baseddyeingandﬁnishingtechnologythatisuniquelysuitablefornotonlymanmade(polyester, nylon)butalsofornatural(cotton)andblendedtextiles.Further,itusesconventionaldyes(Nospecialdyesrequired)andrecipe asusedintheconventionalprocess,togetthedesiredshadeBUTwithoutuseofwaterinthedyeingprocess.Thisinnovative process shows improved dye utilization, makes scale-up easy and has less than half dyeing time vis-a-vis prior-art SC CO2 baseddyeingprocesses.Thereisnoneedforreductionclearingforpolyester,cottonwithnosalt,ureaadded,dyesblendsina singlestep,reducesoverallauxiliarychemicals.Thussubstantiallyreducingthepollution,waterandenergyload.Thishastruly madetheSCCO2technologyviable,versatileandveryeﬃcient.

Mr A.V Mantri,Hon.Secretary,TheTextileAssociation(India),MumbaiUnitproposedtheVoteofThanks.

Mr HareshB.ParekhwastheConvenorofthisHybridLecture.

ThisHybridLecturewasanexcellent,informativeandwasaquiteenlighteningacademicallyandbusinesspotentialtochange the face of the dyeing process using supercritical ﬂuids. Indian textile industry must absorb and adapt this new innovative Thistechnology.eventwasverysuccessfulwiththepresenceoftheparticipationbothphysicallyandvirtually.Therewasgoodinteraction betweenthespeakerandparticipantswhoaskedmanyquestionsandthesamewerepromptlyansweredbythespeaker

TAI-SouthIndiaUnithasbeenconductingthefoundationdayprogrammeeveryyearduringthethirdweekofMaymonth.72nd FoundationDayprogramwasorganizedbyTAI–SouthIndiaUniton21stMay,2022atCoindiaHall,AvarampalayamRoad, Peelamedu,Coimbatore.

ShriSathyanarayana,VicePresident,TAI–SouthIndiaUnitdeliveredthewelcomeaddressandShriK.Gandhiraj,Honorary SecretaryexplainedtheactivitiesofTAI–SouthIndiaUnitandtheroleofFoundersTAI–SIUwithpowerpointpresentation.

ThePresentationwasveryusefulandmoreinterestingwithhighlyvaluableinformationontheSyntheticProcessingforabout 120minutes.

Finally, Shri A. Sivaramakrishnan, Honorary Joint Secretary, TAI- South India Unit delivered the Vote of Thanks and ended withdinnerparticipation..

About220membersandprofessionalsattendedtheprogram.All the participants appreciated the presentation and the program, whichwastheneedofhourforallTextileProfessionals.

TheTextileAssociation(India)SouthIndiaUnitwasestablishedin1948andtheﬁrstfoundationdaywascelebratedon16th May,1950atWOODLANDSHotel,Coimbatorewith20Lifemembersand80Ordinarymembers.

Then, Chief Guest, Shri Ashwin Chandran, CMD of Precot Limited delivered a special address and released the Book “ManufacturingExcellencein Spinning Mills” authoredby ShriA. Kanthimathinathan,CEO,WINSYS SMC.The Guest of Honour, Shri S. Hari Shankar, JMD of Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd. received the ﬁrst copy of the Book and deliveredKeynoteAddress.ThenShriA.Kanthimathinathanbriefedaboutthebook.Followedbythebookreleaseevent,the TechnicalPresentationwasgivenbyShriD.Jayaraman,DeputyDirectorofSITRAonthetopic“MovingtowardsSynthetics–ChallengesinProcessingofSyntheticrichblends”.

The entire programme was well organized and the master of ceremonywasdonebyMr.Sivakumar,HonoraryJointGeneral Secretary of TAI Central Unit TAI South India Unit committee members have extended their full co-operation and supportforthesuccessofthisprogram.

VisittoHimalayaCottonYarnLtd. TheTextileAssociation(India)–South Gujarat Unit with their 14 members and 6 SCET students visited the Himalaya Cotton Yarn Ltd. at Sachin, Surat.Thevisitwasveryfruitfulforall thosewhohadattended.TheSpinning Unitisequippedwithlatesttechnology of machines like Ring Frames ﬁtted with automatic doﬃng mechanism, electronic slub motion, Automatic Windingmachinesetc.

SUBOorganizedIndustrialAwarenessProgramfortheManufacturersofTextileProductswithTheTextileAssociation(India)SouthGujaratUniton17-07-2022.First,ShriS.K.Singh(Head&Director)welcomedtheManufacturersofTextileProducts, briefingonobjectivesofthisprogramandQualityControlOrdersonTextileProducts.Afterthat,KeynoteAddressgivenbyDr. P.A.Khatwani,President,TAISGU,highlightedthedifferencesinqualitymeasurementswiththeintroductionofstandardsby International Standards Organisation (ISO) in the year 1987. Presentation on Standardization and Quality Certification of Textile Products was given by Shri Ishan Trivedi Sir (Sc-C & Deputy Director). Product Specific Guidelines and Online ApplicationProcedureforBISCertificationhadgivenbyShriKunjanKumarAnandSir(Sc-C&DeputyDirector).Presentation onIS17265:2022IndianStandard100Percent.

In feedback, the participants from the industries had very much appreciated the program and expecting many more such programstobeorganisedduringthedaystocomeforthebeneﬁtsoftextileindustries. InlastVoteofThanksbyShriSatyendraKumarPandey(Sc-D&JointDirector).Total87registrationswereofparticipantsfor theprogram.

VisittoStersFashionDesigningInstitute

PolyesterSpunGreyandWhiteYarns,ByShriAbhishekNaidu(Sc-C&DeputyDirector).AftertheQuestionAnswerSession, askedbytheManufacturerswereansweredsatisfactorilybyShriS.K.Singh(Head&Director).

37TAISouthGujaratUnithadvisitedtheFashionInstituteatPiplod,Suraton18-06-2022.Allthemembershadseenthebasics of all the processes which are the part of any garment industry, right from sketching, creation of ideas on a paper to ornamentation, designing and development of garments. Also they got the chance to go through the functions and role of softwarepackagestobeusedduringtheprocessofgarmentmanufacturing.

Industrial awareness Program for the Manufacturers of Textile Products in Association with Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS)

MAYER Technische Textilien and his team held intensive technical discussions about textile solutions for relevant challenges of our time Topics included sustainable composites made from natural fibers - a snowboard was exhibited for this purpose - and textile products for water treatment,e.g.byfiltrationorseawaterdesalination,butalso about textiles for higher-quality and more sustainable construction. Here, warp knitted fabrics with weft insertion havealreadybecomefirmlyestablished.

The KARL MAYER Group draws an extremely positive conclusionafteritsparticipationintheTechtextiltradefairin Frankfurt am Main. From June 21 to 24 2022 the global player presented itself as an innovative partner in the production of high performance textiles and showed innovativesamplesandapplicationexamplesfromitswarp knitting and ﬂat knitting departments. Apart from the last day,theKARLMAYERstandwaswellattendedthroughout. Most of the guests came from Germany and from the neighboringcountriesofSwitzerlandandAustria.Important visitor nations were also India, Turkey, the USA, Italy, PortugalandKorea.

There was also great interest in solutions from the world of new technologies: in a warp knitted fabric with directly integrated electrically conductive material that can be used forgesturecontrol,andinasportsshirtwith3Dprinting.The 3D printing process can be integrated inline into series production.

The atmosphere on the KARL MAYER stand was exceptionallygood."Thetradevisitorswereveryinterested and were looking forward to the exchange after the long Coronabreak,"saidJochenSchmidt.ThePresidentofKARL

Being one of the leading Textile Research and testing facilitiesinIndia,TheBombayTextileResearchAssociation (BTRA)alreadyhasawiderangeofsophisticatedequipment for research and testing in the field of technical textiles and allied fields. Under the leadership of Dr T.V Sreekumar, Director,BTRAhasset-upthenation'sfirstanduniqueHighPerformance Fibre research facility under the “National Technical Textile Mission” with Carbon nanotubes reinforced PAN precursor spinning cum testing facility to promote and support the manufacturing of world class CarbonfibreinIndiaonthepilotscalewithleadingcuttingedgetechnologies.

It was indeed a proud moment as this research facility was inaugurated on 14th July, 2022 by Shri. Upendra P Singh, Textile Secretary, GOI along with Ms. Roop Rashi, Textile Commissioner, GOI and S. K. Saraf, Chairman, BTRA Governing Council. Other prominent dignitaries Mr V K. Kohli, Jt. Textile Commissioner, Mr S. P Varma, Addl., Textile Commissioner, Mr P K. Agarwal, CMD, CCI and Mr.AjitB.Chavan,Secretary,TextileCommitteealsograced theoccasion.Whiletheinteraction,Shri.UpendraP.Singh,

TextileSecretary&Ms.RoopRashi,TextileCommissioner, GOI congratulated and appreciated BTRA's initiative in developingthesefacilities.

ThesefacilitiesconsistofDMAandTMAfacilitywhichhas a wide application for all types of technical textiles and materials.BTRAisinprocessofprocuringaPAN-precursor spinning machine to promote high performance PAN precursor spinning. Other Research and testing facilities consist of Polarized optical microscope, Dynamic mechanical analyzer, Thermo-mechanical analyzer, High shear homogenizer, Brookfield viscometer and High frequency probe sonicator The vision behind establishing thesefacilitiesinBTRAistoprovidecost-effectivesolutions of nano-filler reinforced fibres for high performance and Industryimplementation.

Over the years, BTRAhas been in the forefront in carrying out advance research in the futuristic technologies viz. plasma, conductive, E beam, Nano technology, besides others.Now,itisanotherstepforwardinthe'MadeinIndia' initiatives,byestablishingsuchworld-classresearchfacility

tobesuccessfulinthemarketinthefirsthalf of 2022. Based on the company's technology leadership, innovativeproductportfolioandthecompletionoftheringand compact-spinning system, a high order intake and a significantincreaseinsalesweregenerated.Theincreasein sales was achieved even though pre-produced deliveries in the three-digit million ranges had to be postponed until the second half of 2022.The order backlog is at a record level. Despitehighersales,thesignificantincreaseinmaterialand logistics costs, additional costs for compensation of the material shortages and the expenditure incurred for the acquisitionintheyears2021/2022resultedinaloss.Rieteris implementing an action plan to increase sales and profitability Thesalesprocessfortheremaininglandowned byRieterwasinitiated.

OrderIntakeandOrderBacklog

ActionPlantoIncreaseSalesandProﬁtability

july-august, 2022 Volume 83 No. 2 141

Free cash ﬂow was CHF -57.1 million, attributable to the build-up of inventories in connection with the high order backlogandpostponeddeliveries.

Ÿ Actionplantoincreasesalesandproﬁtability

TUlrikeMediaObertshausencontactSchlenkerel.:+496104/402-274E-Mail:ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

RieterOutlookcontinued

Rieter posted an order intake of CHF 869.4 million, which includedCHF176.6millionfromthebusinessesacquiredin theyears2021/2022.Asexpected,demandhasthusreturned tonormalcomparedwiththeexceptionallyhighfigureforthe prior-yearperiod,butremainswellabovetheaveragefigure for the last five years of around CHF 570 million (first half 2021: CHF 975.3 million, first half 2022 excluding acquisitioneffectCHF692.8million).

Asaresult,salesweresigniﬁcantlyhigherthanintheprior yearperiod,althoughpreproduceddeliveries,whichmainly aﬀected the Business Group Machines & Systems, in the three-digitmillionrangehadtobepostponeduntilthesecond half of 2022. The reasons for the postponements were the COVIDlockdowninChinaandsupplychainbottlenecks.

Sales

The loss at the net result level was CHF -25.2 million, of whichCHF-17.6millionwasduetotheacquisition.

fairluggage,includingform-knittedseatcovers,innovative articles for bandage technology and the latest shoe uppers thatmeet100%oftherequiredsustainabilityexpectations. Formoredetails,pleasecontact: Press Postanschriftrelease/postaddress: KARLMAYERGruppe Industriestraße1 63179

The STOLL team also had theirhandsfullat t h e K A R L MAYER stand. Many existing c u s t o m e r s , particularlyfrom themedical,shoe and sectorsautomotivehadcome

Market success through technology leadership, proﬁts strongly impacted by signiﬁcant cost increases and supplychainbottlenecks.

EBIT,NetResultandFreeCashFlow

Ÿ SalesofCHF620.6million,preproduceddeliveriesinthe three-digit million range had to be postponed until the secondhalfof2022

RieterpostedalossofCHF-10.2millionattheEBITlevelin theﬁrsthalfof2022.

to find out about the latest flat knitting innovations. In addition, curious visitors looking for new business fields as well as sportswear and fashion brands had a wide range of questions. They all found what they were looking for STOLL had a wide range of technical knitwear in its trade

spinning capacity outside China along with investments in the competitiveness of Chinese spinning mills continues. Rieterbeneﬁtsfromitstechnologyleadership,theinnovative product portfolio and the completion of the ring and compact-spinning system through the acquisition of the automatic winding machine business. The largest order intakes came from India, Turkey, China, Uzbekistan, and OnPakistan.June30,2022,thecompanyhadanorderbacklogofmore thanCHF2100million(June30,2021:CHF1135million). Cancellationsinthereportingperiodamountedtoaround5% oftheorderbacklog.

Ÿ RietersiteWinterthur

TheRieterGrouppostedsalesofCHF620.6million,which included CHF 68.9 million from the businesses acquired in theyears2021/2022(ﬁrsthalf2021:CHF400.5million).

Theregionalshiftindemandwithinvestmentsinadditional

Earningswereimpactedbysignificantlyhighermaterialand logisticscosts.Thepriceincreasesalreadyimplementedare having a delayed effect, mainly in the Business Group Machines & Systems, and were therefore unable to compensateforthehighincreaseincosts.Inaddition,costs in connection with material shortages negatively impacted profitability The result also includes acquisition-related expensesofCHF-11.2million.

Ÿ Order intake of CHF 869.4 million, order backlog of morethanCHF2100million

EBIT of CHF -10.2 million, net result of CHF -25.2 millionduetosigniﬁcantcostincreases,additionalcosts, andacquisition-relatedexpenses

Suitableforawiderangeofyarn

2FASTis the most compact loom in the market today, with

Despite signiﬁcantly higher sales, Rieter expects EBIT and netresultfor2022tobebelowthepreviousyear'slevel.This is due to the considerable increases in the cost of materials and logistics, additional costs for compensation of material shortagesaswellexpensesinconnectionwiththeacquisition in the years 2021/2022. Despite the price increases already implemented,globalcostincreasescontinuetoposeariskto thegrowthofproﬁtability.

Quickstylechange

Rieter is implementing a comprehensive package of measureswiththeaimofincreasingsalesandproﬁtabilityin thesecondhalfof2022.

2FAST

Woollenshawlsandstoles

Outlook

Weftselection:8-12colours

Applications:

Linenfabrics

Asalreadyreported,Rieterexpectsdemandfornewsystems to normalize further in the coming months. Due to the capacity utilization at spinning mills, the company has anticipates that demand for consumables, wear & tears and sparepartswillremainatagoodlevel.

Worstedsuiting

The Rieter CAMPUS is not part of this transaction; the constructionprojectisprogressingaccordingtoplan.

Asmarketandtechnologyleader,Rieterwillbeneﬁtfromthe exceptionallyhighorderbacklogandthecontinuationofthe regionalshiftofdemand.

SMIT'sfreeﬂightsystemdoesnothaveribbonguidehooks which ensures a 'clean shed'. Furthermore, the optimised shedgeometrytranslatesintoperfectfabricconstruction.As a result, 2FASTcan handlediverse fabricapplicationssuch asapparels,hometextiles,andtechnicaltextiles.

Technicalspeciﬁcations:

An innovative and well known weaving machine manufacturerfromItaly,SMIT'srapierloomsarereputedfor their versatility, high productivity, superior quality fabric production, and capability to handle a wide range of weft material and yarn counts. Other notable features of SMIT weaving machines include grippers which are easily adjustable and remain stable while weaving. SMIT rapier loomscanbeequippedwithrapierweftinsertionoptimised for home textiles, garments, terry towels, and customized solutionstoproducespecialtechnicalfabrics.

Width:170-380cm

Denim

Terrytowels

Technicaltextiles

Classicshirting

Secondlylogistics.,Rieterisworkingcloselywithkeysuppliersandis developing alternative solutions to eliminate material bottlenecks, as far as possible, in order to safeguard deliveries.

TheBoardofDirectorshasdecidedtobegintheprocessfor thesaleoftheremaininglandattheRietersiteinWinterthur (Switzerland).Intotal,around75000m2oflandwillbesold.

Forfurtherinformationpleasecontact: RieterHoldingLtd. InvestorRelations Kurt investor@rieterFChiefLedermannFinancialOﬃcerT+41522087015+41522087060.comwww.rieter.com

RieterManagementAG Media wwwmedia@rieterFTHeadRelindisRelationsWieserGroupCommunication+41522087045+41522087060.com.rieter.com

simple and low, strain-free access to the front of the loom. Additionally, the ' r o b u s t d e s i g n ' methodology employed by SMIT means a stiﬀer frame, which guarantees the longest machine life and the lowest spare parts consumption.

FASTstandsforFlexibleAdvancedShuttlelessTechnology SMIT's 2FAST is a high speed, shuttleless rapier loom that features free ﬂight rapier ribbon movement, which exchanges the weft at the centre. This enables 2FAST to operate at weft insertion speeds of up to 1650 metres/min, dependingonthestyleandmachinewidth.Itisthusableto achievethebestfabricconstructionatthehighestspeedwith theloweststressforyarn–thankstothelongestbeatingtime amongmachinesofthiskind.

Suitablefordobbyandjacquard

Forthefullyear2022,duetothehighorderbacklogandthe

consolidationofthebusinessesacquiredfromSaurer,Rieter expectssalesofaroundCHF1400million(2021:CHF969.2 million).Thereducedsalesforecastcomparedtoearly2022 (March 2022: CHF 1 500 million) reﬂects the impact of global supply bottlenecks. The realization of sales revenue fromtheorderbacklogcontinuestobeassociatedwithrisks inrelationtothewell-knownchallenges.

2SAVE–weftsavingdevice

RieterSiteWinterthur

2FASTisawellprovenmachinewithexcellentperformance demonstratedinseveralinstallationsinSurat(India).

Sareeanddressmaterials

Thepackagefocusesontwomainpriorities:Firstly,Rieteris continuing to systematically implement price increases whileworkingtoimprovethequalityofmarginsoftheorder backlog,soastocompensateforcostincreasesinmaterials and

Homefurnishings

Regd. No. R. N. 11386/57 (FormallyTextile Digest)