e-journal - Nov-Dec '21

The development in the textile machines has taken the industry from the ancient hand operated textile machines to an automated and computer controlled machinery requiring little human intervention. The support from mechanical, electrical, electronics and chemical engineering has brought vast changes in machine speed, production cost, product quality and manufacture of diversified products over the past few decades. Apart from manufacturing the conventional textile products, the textile industry has also entered into the production of technical and high value added textile products supporting the requirements of other industry segments such as automobiles, construction, medical, packaging, sports, etc. The technological innovations have enhanced the performance of textiles by providing multiple functionalities in the material. The use of textiles for more demanding application calls for more accurate and precise performance data of the manufactured product.

Computer aided design (CAD) has eased the design process with the elaborate calculations and modelling thereby reducing costly pilot trials required for safety checks.

The growth of technical textiles has moved the industry from textile engineering towards engineered textiles.

The vast variety of fiber and fiber cross sections, yarn types, fabric weaves and finishing and manufacturing methods gives wide options to design and engineer fabrics and meet the performance requirements of technical products. The design of sports fabric to manage moisture, energy absorbent materials for packing of fragile goods, nonwoven packaging material to increase the shelf life of perishable fruits and vegetables, weather‐resistive house wraps are few examples that exhibit the growth of engineered fabrics. Textiles are no longer a finished product available in the market but customized and designed for specific end use providing solutions to various problems of industry, environment and society. Developments in the manufacture of fabrics from two dimensions to three dimensions, from biaxial to tri-axial and multi-axial, from single layer to multilayer and spacer fabric, has opened the way for customized, and solution-focused engineered fabrics.

The interdisciplinary knowledge and collaboration with the specialists from the associated sector has helped the industry to reposition itself as a technological support provider to other engineering sectors.

Wishing all the readers a very Happy and Prosperous New Year 2022!!!

Dr. D. V. Raisinghani Hon. Editor

First of all, I am highly thankful to all for electing me as President of The Textile Association (India) – Central along-with a strong Office Bearer Team for the term 2021-23. We appreciate you all for showing faith in us to perform and boost the growth of TAI to build further new heights.

We assure you that with your support and co-operation and the valuable guidance we will fulfil our vision and the mission to lead our TAI as an internationally reputed Association of textile technocrats and professionals with the benchmark performance & commitment.

The Indian economy in recent month is propelling upwards and is on the cusp of recovery post COVID19 helped by a re-silent farm growth sector but risks include slowing global growth and new variant of COVID-19. International agencies and Reserve Bank of India forecast India's economic growth to rebound to 9.5 percent in Financial Year 2021-22 due to faster than expected upturn, rising vaccination rates, increasing consumer confidence, and the resultant spending spike. The Government projects GDP growth at around 10 percent for the current year.

Mr. R. K. Vij, President - TAI

The Government's pro-active reforms and spending on infrastructure, manufacture and telecom sectors have enhanced growth. Other notable initiatives such as cut in corporate taxes, introduction of production linked incentives, Asset Monetization schemes; Atma Nirbhar sops and liquidity measures undertaken by the RBI are also helping to escalate growth.

The Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India has undertaken the initiative to boost the textile sector which is the largest sector after agriculture. Govt is planning for the revival of the textile industry which contributes 2.3% to the Indian GDP, 7% of the industrial output, 12% to the export earnings of India and employs more than 46 million persons which is around 21% of the total employment.

Government approved setting up of a 7 Pradhan Mantri Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (MITRA) Parks with world-class industrial infrastructure which would attract cutting edge technology / scale and FDI / local investment in the sector along-with generated direct and indirect employment per park.

We, at the Textile Association (India), are moving ahead for the growth of TAI image by implementing various footprints. Our focus is to work all together without keeping any hesitation in mind.

At present, Journal of the Textile Association (JTA), bi-monthly Peer Reviewed has improved a lot with its look and quality in multi colours. Revenue generated through the advertisements for JTA is a major issue, but it will also be solved soon. Shortly, we are re-implementing Social Media Platforms.

TAI has planned its roadmap to organize various meaningful activities to uplift technological knowledge through organising such as World Textile Conference (WTC), Global Textile Congress (GTC), CEO Conclave and Educational Conclave etc. We are proposing to enter into partnership memorandum with Industries and Educational Institutes. It is in mind to frame out an Advisory Board by inviting industry leaders.

TAI will surely move forward for the benefit of Technocrats and Academics of Textile Value Chain with the support and cooperation of all together to boost the Association to elevate further heights.

On behalf of me and my team, the Textile Association (India) wish you all a Happy, Prosperous and Healthy New Year 2022.

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/YKAFM

A Review on Coffee Ground Fibre and its Eco-Friendly Nature S. M. Udaya Krithika*, K. Mani, A. Bhavadharani & S. Deepadharshini Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem, India Abstract: Now a day's textile industry has been developing and implementing many new technologies that are very essential for the sustainable future of fashion industry. The textile industry directly forms the next step to ensure the entire industry becomes more sustainable. Sustainable development is very essential to efficient the use of resources, reducing the amount of waste and lowering the cost of the product that will save the environment. This project discuss the important of sustainable future of textile industry, origin of coffee ground fibre, processing of coffee ground fibre, manufacturing of coffee ground fibre; various products produced using coffee fibre, and properties of coffee textile. Each year twenty- five billion of spent coffee grounds are discarded. These spent coffee grounds are dumped and hence affect the environment by releasing greenhouse gases. This is why sustainable innovations of new fibre that are made from coffee grounds are very essential for the greener future for the textile and fashion industries.

Fabrics made from natural resources and recycled materials are the foundation for the sustainable future of the textile and fashion industry. Coffee fibre is one of those sustainable developments which are a prime example of leading textile innovation. The spent coffee ground waste and plastic bottles are the two products that are very dangerous to the environment. By using the new technologies that are developed in textile industry these two products are converted into fabric. The usage of coffee grounds to produce fabric is a greener alternative because; this process makes use of things that would otherwise go to trash.

Keywords: Coffee fibre, fashion, innovation, technology, textile Citation: S. M. Udaya Krithika, K. Mani, A. Bhavadharani & S. Deepadharshini, “A Review on Coffee Ground Fibre and its E c o - F r i e n d l y N a t u r e ” , J o u r n a l o f t h e Te x t i l e A s s o c i a t i o n , 8 2 / 4 ( 1 8 4 - 1 8 9 ) , ( N o v - D e c ’ 2 0 2 1 ) , https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/YKAFM

1. Introduction The textile and fashion industry are the direct footstep to the sustainable future. Each year twenty- five billions of spent coffee grounds are discarded. These spent coffee grounds are dumped and hence affect the environment by releasing greenhouse gases. This is why sustainable innovations of new fibres that are made from coffee grounds, pineapple leaves, seaweed and recycled bottles are very essential as they are the strong base for the greener future for the textile and fashion industries. Coffee fibre is one of the leading textile innovations [4]. The usage of coffee grounds to produce fabric is a greener alternative because; this process makes use of things that would otherwise go to trash. Coffee drinking habit is an international culture which may not be changed. This results in the wastage of spent coffee grounds in very large amount. Each year twenty- five billions of spent coffee grounds are discarded and only 4% of these spent coffee grounds are properly recycled. The other 96% of spent coffee grounds are dumped as it was bio-degradable. But this will result in the emission of major greenhouse gases like Methane (CH4) and Carbon dioxide (CO2) that cause effects to the environment.

A Taiwanese company of Singtex industries found a way of recycling the spent coffee grounds and to produce ecofriendly yarn which can be converted into fabric. Starbucks is one of the world's largest coffee vendors. From those vendors the spent coffee grounds are collected and recycled to produce the coffee yarn. * Corresponding Author: Dr. S. M. Udaya Krithika Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Technology,Sona College of Technology, Junction Main Road,Salem- 636 005 E-mail: udayasathyam@gmail.com

NOV-DEC, 2021 Volume 82 No. 4

2. Sustainable Innovation Coffee fibre is one of the leading textile innovations. For creating the coffee yarn, the spent coffee grounds are collected from the largest coffee vendors worldwide and recycled.

Many researches have reported that the sustainable innovation of coffee fibre is very essential for greener future for the textile and fashion industry. In the article it's explored the sustainable alternatives and textile innovations that are being developed all over the world to raise the urgent need of the innovations and sustainable materials. Textile innovations are the direct footstep for ensuring the whole industry using the sustainable technology [6]. Majority of the resources used by the textile and fashion industry like cotton and polyester are available only in a limited amount, hence there will be huge demand for those resources. Take cotton for example, production of cotton accounts for 2.5% of the world's arable land according to WWF. Total cultivation of cotton accounts for only 24% of the global sales of insecticides and 11% of pesticides, which are mostly released directly to the environment. This, in turn will affect the health of the farmer who is exposed to those chemicals on the daily basis. Also, cotton consumes more water between 6,000 and 10,000 litres to cultivate 1 kilogram of cotton. This is why sustainable innovations of new fibres that are made from coffee grounds, pineapple leaves, seaweed and recycled bottles are very essential as they are the strong base for the greener future for the textile and fashion industries. S.Cafe is a prime example for the sustainable innovations that are developed in the textile and fashion industries [8]. Singtex technology combines the post-patented processed coffee ground and polymer chips to create master batches. From those master batches, drawing of coffee yarn is done. The

resulting coffee yarn is a multifunctional yarn used for making various products. It can be used for manufacturing apparel like clothing, sportswear and the things we use daily.

Coffee fabrics have many characteristics such as soft, flexible, light, and breathable. The fabric made from coffee grounds also have many features such as fast drying, UV protection and eco-friendly. Coffee grounds generally have the unique ability of blocking odours. Hence the fabric made from coffee grounds also has the ability of blocking odours and makes the wearer feel fresh. The coffee ground wastes are collected from the largest coffee vendors all over the world. Then the coffee grounds are recycled and coffee yarn is created. In this way, the company of singtex gives a second life to those coffee grounds, which would have otherwise ended up in the trash. The spent coffee ground waste and plastic bottles are the two products that are very dangerous to the environment. By using the new technologies that are developed in textile industry these two products are converted into yarn which would be further converted into fabric. The usage of coffee grounds to produce fabric is a greener alternative because; this process makes use of things that would otherwise go to trash.

3. Origin of Coffee Fibre Once the coffee bean is grounded, the used coffee grounds are thrown to the trash or used as a fertiliser. But now a new technology has been developed to make fabric from the used coffee grounds.

The innovation of coffee fibre is the next big thing in ecofriendly textiles and explained about the origin of this new idea of making fabric from the spent coffee grounds. When the CEO of a Taiwanese fabric manufacturing company singtex was sipping his cup of coffee at “Starbucks”, this new idea was triggered in his mind. He noticed that a group of women collecting the spent coffee grounds from the counter.

His curiosity made him ask the purpose of collecting those spent coffee grounds. Later on, he came to know that those coffee grounds are used to manufacture cosmetic products and also deodorants to prevent body odours. What he considered as waste, was being used in a huge market of high potential. This inspired him to research and find if something could be found from waste coffee grounds. Then they invested 1.7million USD to set a unit to convert the waste coffee grounds into fabrics [3]. The waste coffee bean powder is treated with some other materials and turned into interlaced fibres, which is transformed into fabric and then tailored to form garments. The coffee fabric can be produced either in woven form or knitted form or even in the form of non-woven.

The up cycled coffee textiles were explored and added the information about origin of this unique idea of creating fabric from the coffee grounds. Globally, twenty-three million tons of coffee is produced per year. There are numerous companies and businesses finding their way of recycling those coffee grounds so that it won't be waste but a valuable product [2]. Textile and fashion industry is one of those ways.

Twelve years ago, Jason Chen the CEO of Singtex industrial

cop and his wife Amy Lai the senior vice president of singtex, went to a cafe called “Starbucks”. Jason and his wife Amy noticed that a group of women collecting the spent coffee grounds from the counter. They later came to know that those coffee grounds are collected and take their home and use them as a natural odour absorber as it was a common use of coffee grounds, much like baking soda. Jason once said that his wife suddenly hit on a wild idea and asked him whether such things could be made into clothing to decrease the smell from men. What started as a joke is now turned into huge successful business idea. After this idea, he started researching with some scientists to develop a yarn that is partially made from the spent coffee grounds. After their hard work they successfully created the yarn. This innovation let them to launch a coffee fabric called S.Cafe [8].

As Jason recalls, in 2005 he began to lead four doctoral research developments, incurring high costs for more practical procedures, to produce coffee yarns. However, they kept encountering all the challenges in that process and realised that the main problem was on the technique they followed, the pure capability to handle recycled coffee grains, grounds and slag, from everywhere, while it still contained oil and water. To make a raw fibre the raw material should be super dry. The coffee grounds are cleaned and the oils are extracted from them. These extracted oils are used in cosmetic products. Then the oil free coffee grounds are mixed with nylon or polyester, in the case of S.Cafe, it is mixed with recycled versions of nylon and polyester.

Another problem they faced was the colour, as it was very difficult to decolour the coffee grounds. Finally, they found the solution by using a high-tech extraction machine originally used for Chinese medicine which was more expensive, to decolour the coffee grounds by extracting and absorbing the colour. They tested so many times to reach their target. Finally, they tested their eight samples which was a huge success. But still there raised some problems regarding this innovation. The combination of coffee grounds and the smell of human body gave another strange smell, which was really good. It was very far from a deodorant It was really not a very good smell and very far from a deodorant. This is not that they expected. After many works all these problems were solved and S.Cafe upgraded to their next level. While the coffee fabric is branded as an ecofriendly alternative only 5% of the coffee grounds are used for the manufacturing of the yarn while other 95% are recycled plastic bottles. Use and throw plastic water bottles are made from PET which can be grinded to small flakes.

From those small flakes we could make fibre [8]. Chen estimated that a piece of clothing made uses three cup of coffee grounds and five recycled PET bottles. Using recycled PET will be more energy and water conserving process than using the virgin PET. It also gives a benefit that giving a second life to a product that has lifespan of more than 500 years to decompose which will end up with negative consequences to the planet. The issue of waste doesn't come with a simple solution. Companies are the pushing the boundaries by their innovations in textile industry and challenging all of us to think whether it was a usable or waste.

4. Singtex and S.cafe Technology A Taiwanese textile company Singtex, founded by Jason Chen innovated the new sustainable fibre from coffee grounds and recycled plastic water bottles. And they named their new innovative coffee yarn as “S.Cafe yarn”.

Many researches explored the coffee to wear technology called “S.Cafe technology”. In 2009, after four years of struggles S.Cafe brand was created with more innovative products made using coffee grounds are launched by a Taiwanese company of Singtex industries. Singtex is one of the most prominent industries in Taiwan. Since its founding in 1989, Singtex is engaged in continuous research for the development of textiles in the area of outdoor, sports, functional and environment-friendly fabrics. The Singtex industries partnered with many coffee vendors for collecting the used coffee grounds hence using the sustainable raw material. The S.Cafe technology is an energy saving process which involves low- temperature and high pressure that combines the yarn surface, changing their characteristics of the yarn up to 200% fast drying when compared to cotton and other fibres. The S.Cafe yarns have micro-pores that absorb the odours and block the odours. This S.Cafe fabric also reflects the UV rays and act as a UV shield to the wearer.

Singtex industry also found other properties as the coffee added fabric gives good breathability, protection from the sun as it reflects the UV rays. Also, a special feature of this S.Cafe technology is the S.Cafe fabric gives an ice cool effect to the wearer and keeps the skin cool. When the coffee beans are roasted as the coffee bean swells the space between the coffee beans expands, which helps in locking the odour.

During brewing, the materials that are clogging up the spaces will be removed by hot water. Finally, the patented process maximises the functions of the S.Cafe. Comparing to the other fibres for example cotton, S.Cafe sustainable technology gives triple times more odour controlling feature which would not disappear when washing the fabric. Many tests proved that S.Cafe has fast drying capacity as it continuously moves the moisture away from the body to the outer surface of the fabric, improving its efficiency compared to the other. This S.Cafe acts as a natural shield by reflecting the UV rays and gives a good outdoor experience to the wearer. This S.Cafe sustainable technology provides five times UV protection than cotton [8].

5. Process of Coffee Fibre Textiles Worldwide reported that The Process used to make coffee fibre is similar conversion of bamboo into viscose material. Coffee ground fabrics are flexible, soft and light, breathable. One cup of coffee can make two t-shirts. It has unique natural ability to block the odour. Coffee waste and plastic water bottles are harmful to the environment, so it is used for the textile innovation solutions to produce coffee ground fibres. The advantages of the coffee fibre products are numerous.

The extraction of cleaned oils from the coffee grounds which is used in cosmetics, and then ground down to a Nano scale.

Nylon or polyester is mixed. The recycled version of these

compounds where mixed to create a technical yarn with qualities like anti odour capability which is in case of s cafe.

The performance clothing and mixing compounds with synthetic fibre to achieve certain technical capabilities are nothing in new. We wore natural fibre before synthetic fibre, some of these have inherent qualities are replicated in the synthetic fibres. For example, wool it has the antimicrobial properties that are owed to lanolin, and when it is turned into textiles does not retains the odours. Therefore, synthetic fibres are different, without an additive hold onto odours is more easily than the natural materials.

The material like bamboo into viscose is just similar to the process of making coffee ground fibre. The final result of the fabrics has been soft and lighten, more flexibility and breathable. The singtex industry has patented a process to transform the coffee ground into an S.Cafe yarn through a temperature of 160 degree Celsius for carbonization, which are the energy comparison to 600 degree Celsius for a normal yarn. The basic procedure includes the mixing the coffee residue into a recycled plastic bottle material and re polymerizing the master batch and spinning the coffee yarn to obtain a green fibre S.Cafe yarn. The raw materials are a combination of the coffee and recycled polyester. By using new materials the finished textile quality and appearance are good is achieved. The coffee grounds, which were generally treated as the waste, through extraction, Nano grinding, metropolis, and wicking material improvement of process are created by the singtex industries. It is used for create a technical composite fibre which it can be used for both knitted and woven clothing.

6. Manufacturing of Coffee Ground Fibre The fibre which is made from the waste of coffee ground is an eco-friendly which is developed by singtex industry. In the year of 2008 the S.Cafe yarn are the eco-friendly yarn which it is made of plastic bottles and coffee grounds has many different application like UV resistant ,environmentally friendly, green, deodorizing, fast drying.

7. Steps Involved in Manufacturing of Coffee Fibre Researches have reported the whole manufacturing process of coffee ground fibre. Singtex industry set its own sights to create a best and eco-friendly product without compromising sustainability development [5]. The big stages of making into a beverage are made of roasting the coffee beans. The taste of coffee bean enchanting an aroma and roasting of coffee bean can create it contributes to the main component of the S.Cafe yarn which are producing the coffee ground after the process of baking and brewing. i. Preparation material with coffee residue The micro encapsulated backed coffee which terms 'material with coffee residue 'Microencapsulated fragrance, microencapsulated coffee essential oil and organic compounds is extracted from coffee residue ii. Sieving of coffee residue The waste of coffee bean had been raised and dried, in that a

underground particle size of 20 to 100 micron. And the ground mixture is cleaned. The final composition can be sieved into different sizes of fine particle sizes between 80100um. iii. Removal of organic contents from material with coffee residue The sieved composition mixture has been treated with some solvents to clean the organic contents. The extracted fat has been carried out in Soxhlet extractor type with ethyl ether.

After that fatty acid has been disposed, and the aqueous solution which contains water-soluble constituents should be evaporated and reduce the pressure to extraction of absolute alcohol for removal of glycerol. iv. Preparation of carbonized particles During carbonization the above three steps of mixture has been used.

For example: Pyrolysis -Mixture of coffee is heated to decomposed state and converted into desired product in nature Carbonization of coffee residue is made of chemicals such as zinc chloride, magnesium chloride, and phosphoric acid calcium chloride. v. Mixture of material with carbonized material and Blending the mixture with the polyester chip Raw material is mixed with the prepared carbonised material to form a mixture process of underground particle and polymer chip (such as nylon, PP or PET) with weight ratio of 1:9 is blended and carbonised to prepare master batch.

Alternatively, 75 % of carbonised particles and 25 % raw material with fragrance of coffee are blended into polymer chip (such as PP, Nylon) for master batch. After the completion of all processes, from the master batch drawing a coffee yarn and the fabric is produced.

8. Properties of Coffee Ground Fibre Coffee is one of the most important and valued draft around the world, the properties is being consumed for its exciting and freshening, which are defined by the green beans structure and changes are occurring the process. But it is an important basic material that can be used to make a coffee ground fibres.

The process of coffee ground fibre is more important for upcoming generation of greener planned for textile and fashion industry. In her article she explained the processing and application of coffee ground fibre that are being developed and need to explore all over the world. Process of making fabric out of coffee grounds fibre is just cognate to that used to bamboo into viscose like material. Coffee grounds are excited by the properties of soft, light, flexible and breathable nature [1]. “Singtex is a functional fabric and has performing right a process to transform coffee grounds into S.Cafe yarn through a temperature of 160°C for carbonization, which is energy efficient in comparison to 600°C for normal yarn. The basic procedure to obtain the green fibre yarn includes mixing the coffee residue into a recycled plastic bottle material and re-polymerising to master batch and spinning to a coffee yarn, this is the basic

procedure to process the yarn. There fabric has many processing of coffee ground fibre it include fast drying, odour control, UV protection and eco-friendly choice. Fast drying is nothing but quick drying. It absorbs a liquid substance that dries quickly. Perspiration is caused by human body. Textile from coffee ground fibre have an unsmooth surface. This helps in propagate water evenly on the top surface of the fabric. Since water is spread out across the surface, it lowers the duration of the drying process. Thus, it keeps the wearer dry and comfortable. Fast drying process is one the most important process to drying the fabric. Coffee ground fibre has faster drying capacity which means it continuously move moisture away from the skin to the outer surface of the fabric.

The fabric has fast drying properties and it is not a temporary kind of finish, this feature being permanent will never wash out nature. Coffee grounds have generally the individual ability of blocking odours buyer feel fresh. Nano sized coffee filaments are permanently embedded with the coffee fibre.

Coffee particles are absorbed the odour from our body which produced all over the day. Hence the longer aerobic activities can be performed with more luxury. Cafe coffee ground contribute with huge microscopic pores which create longlasting natural and chemical-free shield for fibre or yarn or fabric, which reflects UV rays and provide comfortable outdoor experience. UV protection has long microscopic holes within the yarn is packed by coffee grounds, which forms a shield that is long-lasting and free of chemicals. It stops ultra violet rays from coming into contact with the skin of the body. So UV rays are involved in the process of coffee grounds fibre. Coffee fabric has numerous eco-friendly natures. Fibres can be look to recycled coffee ground and the café technology that would have gone to landfill trash. Apart from this S. cafe is another sustainable yarn which able to cool down the temperature of our body about 1 to 2 Celsius compared to common fabrics. In fact, the fabric gives the cooling feel nature. These are mainly important process in coffee ground fibres and they have good moisture absorption, good air permeability, elastic in nature, natural medicinal property and native lustre. The consumption of coffee grounds to produce fabric is a greener alternative because, this process made use of objects that would or else go to trash [8].

9. Benefits of Coffee Ground Fabric It provides excellent aroma control. The coffee grounds, which are embedded within S.Cafe yarns, absorb aroma resistance. It is an eco-friendly nature. It has fast drying benefits. S.Cafe technology accelerates the drying of the fabric by spreading the moisture across the surface area of the garments. By pulling moisture away from the skin, the wearer feels cooler during any activity and thus also more comfortable [8]. UV-protection has a little microscopic hole within the yarn is filled by coffee grounds, which forms a shield that is long-lasting and free of chemicals. It prevents ultra violet rays from coming into contact with the skin.

Made from recycled materials and sustainable technology is used. Major environmental benefits using coffee grounds fiber are 100% biodegradable and eco-friendly.

10. Environmental Merits of Coffee Fibre The environmental merits of coffee ground fibres can be discussed. The major environmental merits are given below.

As coffee is one of the world's most popular drinks, Strength of used coffee ground was discarded. Most coffee grounds end up with landfill, which emits the greenhouse gases.

Singtex is now collecting the waste grounds from the drinks and enormous and they can be turns into sports fabric and they can be converted into sportswear garment. Now textile industry transforms coffee ground to fabric, coffee bean garbage used in the formation of fabric with new technologies, and create applications and it can be recycled easily to the fabrics. The manufacturing process of coffee ground fibre need chemical which are non-toxic in nature.

Hence it does not affect the environment. Coffee ground fibre comes under environment friendly textile s the fibres are 100% bio-degradable and hence do not harmful to the environment.100% biodegradable is can be defined as “Biodegradable” refers to the ability of things to get disintegrated by the action of micro-organisms such as bacteria or fungi biological (with or without oxygen) while getting assimilated into the natural environment. There's no ecological harm during the process.so the coffee ground fiber is 100% biodegradable. Life cycle of the industry is used to produce more application based on the environment. The manufacturing of a new product does not require high temperature for carbonization, so its manufacturing process is also energy efficient. Instead of analyzing the end product test report, then producing products from raw material to the chemical component, to water and energy resources. The blue sign is one textile standard association; these blue sign standards analyze all input in producing an article from raw material to the chemical component, to water and energy resources. The blue sign standard is dedicated to protecting consumers and reducing the environmental impact by minimizing the waste and emission and reducing resources usage. Environment Friendly Textile OF Coffee ground fiber and fabric is the most amazing textile sustainable innovation, it turned fiber into a yarn that provides an excellent natural anti-odor (perspiration) property, UV ray protection property, good absorbency and a good faster drying property in comparison to cotton. Multi-functional yarn can be used for a variety of products for sportswear and household, medical wear and they can be provide good healing, help to avoid inflammation due to good air permeability. It was sustainable, organic and can easily be recycled.

11. Disadvantages of Coffee Fibre The disadvantages and application of coffee ground fibre were discussed in detail. A company from Taiwan has developed a fabric made from used coffee grounds. The fabric is soft, light, flexible and breathable nature and can also be used to produce an outer shell that is water resistant.

Despite its numerous advantages, coffee fibre has one disadvantage. The diameters of coffee grounds are only one to two microns size are added. Due to its lowest diameter, at higher concentration the yarn is being to break to lose strength [3].

12. Major applications of Coffee Fibre Coffee fibre is made up of fabric and they can be perfect for central and base layer for adrenalin powdered sports like walking, running and yoga. These garments can be stitched by using the application of coffee ground fibre. i. Apparel textile: Coffee fibre can be used in an apparel textile like clothing and even it can be used in active wear, tshirts and even sportswear. As the fibre offers 200% faster drying capacity, it can be used for manufacturing sports cloth. It is more comfortable to wear dress and even it absorbs sweating, it is suggested to the players to play the games such as football, badminton etc. It has eco-friendly; fabric can be washed easily without the need of any detergents. Now-adays coffee fibre is also used in sneakers also [7]. ii. Home furnishings: The coffee ground fibre was used primarily in clothing, but these materials can be used as part of the structures in the interior design for coffee shops and home furnishing. Home furnishing items like cushion cover, sofa cover, etc. So the coffee fibre is used for home furnishing products. iii. Athletic wear : Roasted coffee has natural deodorizing properties so that fabrics made from coffee yarns have great application in athletic wear. Athletic wears are worn for sports or physical exercise; it is designed to soak up the sweat. Apart from this it is found that coffee fibre is fast drying and serve as UV shield, hence fibre gives a perfect match for athletic wear. Coffee ground fibre are mixed with the sports fabric and it is used to make the perfect sportswear garment [7].

13. Conclusion Coffee fibre is a prime example of one of the leading textile innovations. Coffee fabrics are more expensive than other fabrics. The fabrics made from coffee grounds are soft, light, flexible and breathable. A single cup of coffee can make two t-shirts. Coffee grounds have a unique natural ability to block odours. Two products that are harmful to the environment, namely coffee waste and plastic water bottles are used for innovative textiles solutions and to produce fabric made with coffee grounds. There is never a need to waste time and energy to produce the essential S Cafe raw material, as there is always coffee being consumed, therefore there will always be coffee grounds to be collected and used.

Coffee drinking habit is culture that couldn't be erased from our life. And now coffee is not only for drinking, you can also wear it! Fabrics made from coffee ground fibre, seaweed, and pineapple leaves or recycled plastic bottles are as important as they are the foundation of the fashion industry's greener future. This study is based on using coffee grounds is a greener alternative, because it makes use of a resource that would otherwise go to waste, and it provides an alternative to using more conventional chemicals to achieve a similar performance capability.

References: [1] Ankita Singh Rao. “A Novel Approach of Coffee Ground Fibre towards Environment Friendly Textile”, Research gateImpact Journals, 12(7), (2019), 29-32.

[2] Pandit, Pintu, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti, and Kunal Singha. "Sustainability in Fashion and Textile”, Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach (2020), 177-198.

[3] Chinchwade, S. S. and Kumar, D. Coffee Fibre:" Drink It, Wear it.. Man-Made Textiles in India, 40(4). (2012).

[4] Duggan, G. G. “The greatest show on earth: A look at contemporary fashion shows and their relationship to performance art”, Fashion Theory, 5(3), (2001). 243-270.

[5] Rao, A. S. “A study on textile and fashion sustainability”, International Journal of Research in Social Sciences, 8(10), (2018), 664-688.

[6] Pandit, P., Annaldewar, B. N., Nautiyal, A., Maiti, S., and Singha, K. “Sustainability in Fashion and Textile”, Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach, (2020), 177-198.

[7] Nabarupa Bose,” Innovative Textile Using Coffee Ground”, Textile Value Chain, (2020).

[8] Alyssa Mertes, “S. CAFE: The Next Big Thing in Ecofriendly Fabrics “, Quality Logo Products, (2021).

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Central Office Follow us on

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/2GNQX

Design and Development of Liquid Strike through and Wet Back Measurement System A. R. Telepatil*, P. C. Dhanawade, V. M. Davande & V. B. Sutar D.K.T. E's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Dist.: Kolhapur, India Abstract: Non-woven fabrics are made from long fiber. Non fabrics have wide range of application in geo-textiles, medical fields and vacuum bags due to high absorbency property. Implemented system is used to calculate absorbency rate of Non-woven fabric. To do so develop system consists of three main components. First component deals with liquid strike through method to calculate the liquid absorbency rate of fabric. Two pure electrodes are used over the sample through which we can determine the exact period of absorbency by pouring the salty water over the fabric. The pouring process of salty water is made automated using the solenoid valve which will be actuated for some specified time interval to pour exact 5ml of water.

Second component is the weighing machine, which is used to measure the initial weight of tissue paper and the third component is wetback measurement. In this method an adequate amount of pressure is applied over that wet sample by placing it above the tissue paper. Now, again the weight of the tissue paper is measured to determine the releasing rate of sample. A better-quality fabric should absorb more and more liquid but it should release less. Final calculated parameters associated are shared on cloud.

Keywords: Absorbency rate, Arduino Board, Cloud Computing. Non-woven fabric, Wet back system Citation: A. R. Telepatil, P. C. Dhanawade, V. M. Davande & V. B. Sutar, “Design and Development of Liquid Strike through and Wet Back Measurement System”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/4 (190-194), (Nov-Dec’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/2GNQX

1. Introduction Non-woven fabrics are made from long fiber. The methods like thermal bonding, needle punching, needle felting, and chemical bonding are used to manufacture the non-woven fabric [2]. Non-fabrics have wide range of application in geotextiles, medical fields and vacuum bags due to high absorbency property. Implemented system is used to calculate absorbency rate of Non-woven fabric. The process of moisture transport through clothing under transient humidity conditions is an important factor which influences the dynamic comfort of the wearer in practical use [3]. The system named as 'Liquid Strike through and Wetback Measurement' is an instrument which deals with the calculation of liquid absorbency and releasing rate of nonwoven fabric using liquid strike through and wetback measurement method. The existing system consists of three major components to fulfil the aim of the project. Out of those three components, first one is the liquid strike through.

Basically, this method is designed to calculate the liquid absorbency rate of fabric. To do so, two pure electrodes are used over the sample through which we can determine the exact period of absorbency by pouring the salty water over the fabric. The pouring process of salty water is made automated using the solenoid valve which will be actuated for some specified time interval to pour exact 5ml of water.

Second component is the weighing machine, which is used to measure the initial weight of tissue paper. Now, the third component is wetback measurement. In this method an adequate amount of pressure is applied over that wet sample by placing it above the tissue paper. Now, again the weight of * Corresponding Author: Mr. Avadhoot R. Telepatil Assistant Professor, Electronics and Telecommunication Engineering Department, D.K.T. E's Textile and Engineering Institute, Rajwada, Ichalkaranji - 416115 Dist.: Kolhapur Mob.: 7588490044, 9860892085 E-mail: artelepatil@dkte.ac.in

the tissue paper is measured to determine the releasing rate of sample. A better-quality fabric should absorb more and more liquid but it should release less.

2 Organization of Work The work flow of implemented work is as below, 2.1 Design and development of liquid pouring system using solenoid valve. This valve will pour exact 5ml of water.

2.2 Designing and development of cavity to support calculation of conduction period.

2.3 Calculate absorbency rate of non-woven fabric.

2.4 Use of HX711 sensor as ADC for load cell of weighing machine.

2.5 Design and development of wetback system with normal baby weight about 3kg using suitable DC motor.

2.6 Data logging through cloud computing which includes display of calculated various parameters at remote PC. 2.7 Local display of calculated parameters on 16*2 LCD interfaced with Arduino UNO board.

3 Block Diagram of Implemented Work Figure 3.1 shows the block diagram of implemented work.

The implemented work mainly deals with the determination of quality of fabric with the calculation of liquid absorbency rate and releasing rate of fabric.

The overview of different building blocks shown in block diagram is as below, 3.1 Arduino UNO board works as heart of whole system. It controls all the operations performed by the various sensors such as solenoid valve, HX711 (ADC for weighing machine), DC motor etc.

Power Supply

Dead weight control and measurement

Liquid Flow Control

Time based conductivity measurement

ARDUINO UNO

4.1.2 Ethernet shield: The Arduino Ethernet Shield allows to easily connecting an Arduino to the internet. This shield enables an Arduino to send and receive data from anywhere in the world with an internet connection. This shield opens up endless amounts of possibility by allowing connecting the project to the internet in no-time flat.

Display Unit

Cloud Weighing Machine

Figure 3.1 Block diagram of proposed work 3.2 Ethernet shield enables Arduino board to send and receive data from anywhere in the world within an internet connection.

3.3 Liquid flow control uses the solenoid valve for its operation to pour exact 5ml of liquid (salty water) over the fabric.

3.4 Time based conductivity measurement makes use of two pure copper electrodes to calculate the conduction period of sample and hence determines the absorbency rate of fabric.

3.5 Weighing machine is designed using load cell to weigh the tissue paper for the determination of the releasing rate of fabric.

Figure 4.2 Ethernet Shield 4.1.3 Cavity: The liquid-strike-through time is the time taken for a known volume of test liquid applied to the surface of a test piece of nonwoven fabric which is in contact with undelaying standard absorbent pads to pass through the nonwovens.

This module is designed such that it releases standard 5ml salty water into a cavity. Through an opening in the bottom of the well that rests on the test piece, liquid drains through the test piece into an absorbent pad (sample).

3.6 In dead weight control and measurement system, a specific amount of pressure about 3kg (normal baby weight) is applied over the sample of conductivity test for predefined amount of time.

3.7 Display unit used to display the overall result produced by the designed framework.

3.8 The power requirement of entire framework is satisfied by the power supply unit.

4. System Design and Implementation 4.1 Hardware Implementation 4.1.1 Arduino Uno: The Arduino Uno is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega328. It has 14 digital input/output pins out of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs, 6 analog inputs, a 16 MHz ceramic resonator, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header, and a reset button.

Figure 4.3 Cavity Structure The presence and disappearance of the test liquid in the well is detected by electrode placed in the cavity. A known volume of test liquid is discharged to the surface of the sample at a prescribed rate. By using this cavity, we can measure the absorption time of nonwoven fabrics. To calculate the time of absorption two electrodes are placed in that cavity. When salty water will be poured in cavity, because of salty water the conduction is take place between those two electrodes. After absorption of water the conduction will break. The time taken for all the liquid to penetrate the nonwoven is measured electronically and is called liquid-strike-through time.

4.1.4 Wetback system: The WETBACK test has to be affected on the same sample after testing the liquid-strike through time. After applying a defined amount of liquid on the prepared sample (strikethrough-test), a simulated baby weight is automatically lowered onto the sample with an accurately defined speed and remains there for an exactly specified period of time.

Through a special filter paper and an electronic balance, the amount of liquid is determined, which due to the load is released by the fabric surface into the filter paper.

The rewet test is mostly used for diapers and sanitary goods.

It measures the capacity of non-woven fabrics to hold back liquids even under the pressure of weight – just think of a wet diaper under the weight of a baby. This test is widely used but varies very much because of manual handling. The wetback offers reliable results by its automatic measurement procedure.

Furthermore, the achieved test data are automatically sent into the wetback evaluation software, where they are organized and evaluated in an efficient manner. The test results of both modules are evaluated and managed in the same software.

4.1.5 Relay: A relay is an electromagnetic switch operated by a relatively small electric current that can turn on or off a m u c h l a rg e r e l e c t r i c current. The heart of a relay is an electromagnet (a coil of wire that becomes a temporary magnet when electricity flows through it).

Figure 4.4 Cavity Structure Relays bridge the gap, making it possible for small currents to activate larger ones. That means relays can work either as switches (turning things on and off) or as amplifiers (converting small currents into larger ones).

4.1.6 Solenoid valve To improve the performance of solenoid valves, it is essential to understand the effect of magnetic material properties and geometry in their design[10]. Solenoid valve is an electromechanically operated valve. The valve is controlled by an electric current through a solenoid: in the case of a twoport valve the flow is switched on or off; in the case of a three-port valve, the outflow is switched between the two outlet ports. Multiple solenoid valves can be placed together on a manifold.

Figure 4.5 Solenoid Valve 4.1.7 Load cell Role of pressure measurements is well established in industries [1]. A load cell is a force sensing module - a carefully designed metal structure, with small elements

called strain gauges mounted in precise locations on the structure. Load cells are designed to measure a specific type of force, and ignore other forces being applied. The electrical signal output by the load cell is very small and requires specialized amplification. Fortunately, the 1046 Phidget Bridge will perform all the amplification and measurement of the electrical output.

Figure 4.6 Load cell 4.1.8 HX711 This module uses 24 high precision A/D converter chip HX711. It is a specially designed for the high precision electronic scale design, with two analog input channels, the internal integration of 128 times the programmable gain amplifier. The input circuit can be configured to provide a bridge type pressure bridge (such as pressure, weighing sensor mode), is of high precision, and low cost is an ideal sampling front-end module.

Figure 4.7 HX711 IC 4.2 Software implementation Figure 4.8 shows the overall flow of an implemented work. It gives the procedure through which we could achieve the desired results.

5.0 Results: The implemented project work deals with the determination of quality of non-woven fabric by the calculation of absorbency rate of fabric. In order to obtain this rate, copper electrodes are used, which will determine the conduction period. Manual liquid pouring process will be controlled automatically using solenoid valve. For the weight back measurement certain amount of pressure is applied of sample for predefined time. Depending on the weight of the sample, the required result associated with the absorbency is calculated. The obtain result would be shared with the respective authority using IoT based cloud computing. The figure 5.1 demonstrates the hardware setup of overall system implementation shows the setup for cavity test. Figure 5.2 shows the simulation results of the implemented work. It mainly displays the conduction time and corresponding voltage levels. Figure 5.3 demonstrate the implementation of weighing machine. The overall system design and implementation is shown in figure 5.4.

The results obtained from implemented work shows following merits: 5.1 Automation in liquid pouring process.

5.2 Use of solenoid valve in system makes the liquid pouring process automated: The solenoid valve will be actuated in such a way that it will pour exact 5ml of water over the fabric.

5.3 To calculate conduction period to predict absorbency of

sample fabric: Two pure copper electrodes are used to calculate the conduction period of sample and hence will determine the absorbency rate of fabric.

5.4 Use of dead weight tester to obtain wetback period of fabric: An adequate amount of pressure (about 3kg) is applied over the sample of conductivity test to determine the wetback rate.

5.5 Centralized data logging of results. By using an Ethernet shield along with the Arduino board we are providing the centralized data logging for the end user.

5.6 Sharing of obtained result with respective authority using cloud computing.

5.7 The overall results of the implemented work are shared with the respective authority by using IoT cloud computing.

6.0 Future Scope 6.1 Accuracy of the designed framework could be improved by using dosing pump except the solenoid valve.

6.2 The samples can be passed from one system to another by implementing the conveyor belt between two to pass the sample from one system to another.

6.3 An Android App could be designed, which will provide all the result at remote access.

6.4 Centralized data logging could be provided with security so that only respective authority can have access over the data.

Figure 5.1 Conductivity test

Figure 5.2 Simulation results

Figure 5.3 Weighing machine

Figure 5.3 Weighing machine

References [1] Sanjay Yadav, Om Prakash, “Studies on stabilities of various types of industrial pressure measuring devices”, Journal of scientific and industrial research, vol.65, September 2006, pp.721-724 [2] Kunal Singha, Palash Paul, “A review on Nonwoven manufacturing, properties and Application”, International Journal of textile Science 2012, 1(5), pp.36-45 [3] V.K.Kothari, Braojeswari Das, “Moisture Transmission through Textule”, AUTEX Research journal, vol.7, No 2 June 2007, pp.100-110 [4] Robert Repnik , Eva Klemence, “Impact of moisture on conductivity of fabrics” International journal of Textile and Science, vol.30, July 2010, pp.8-24 [5] Kamlesh H.Thakkar et al..,” Performance Evaluation of Strain Guage based Load Cell to Improve Weighing Accuracy”, International Journal of Latest Trends in Engineering and Technology vol.2, 2013, issue 1 [6] Chunngket theim, “Structural sizing and shape optimization of load cell”, International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology, vol.2, 2013, issue 7 [7] S.M.Ghanvat, H.G.Patil, “Shape optimization of 's'type load cell using finite element method”, Indian Journal of Science and Technology, vol.1, 2012, issue 3, pp.310-316 [8] Shashi Bushan Kumar, Mohammed Hasmat Ali, Anshu Sinha, “Design and Simulation of speed control of DC motor by Artificial Neural Network Technique”, International Journal of Scientific and Research Publications, vol.4, issue 7, July 2014 [9] Aditya Pratap Singh, “Speed control of DC motor”, International Conference on Recent Trends in Applied Science with Engineering Application, vol.4, No.6, 2013 [10] S.Wang, T.Miyano and M.Hubbard, “Personal Computer Design Software for Magnetic Analysis and Dynamic Simulation of a Two-valve Solenoid Actuator”, SAE Technical paper 921086, 199

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/VWCJR

Antiviral Textiles: An Emerging Paradigm in Protection against the Virus!

Nagender Singh & Javed Sheikh* Department of Textile and Fibre Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi (IITD), New Delhi, India Abstract: Over the years, humans have suffered a lot due to several deadly viruses such as SARS-COV, MERS-COV, SARS-COV2 (coronavirus), Ebola virus and other respiratory influenza viruses. Antiviral textile materials have captured much attention in recent years. The antiviral textile products showed a promising inhibiting effect on viruses, and they can reduce the number of infective microorganisms that come in contact with the treated textile surfaces. There are two modes of virus transmission; the airborne transmission of the virus through inhalation of droplets generated after an infected person sneezed or coughed, and autoinoculation, in which the virus was put into their own body by the human beings after touching a contaminated surface. Therefore, it is crucial to consider the textile surface a possible transmission route for the transmission of viruses. Many studies showed that viruses could stay on fabrics for an extended period. In response to the recent pandemic (COVID-19), this review is summarized the importance of antiviral textiles to suppress the effect of viruses.

Several textile and biotech companies have continued working on the development of antiviral textiles to protect humankind from novel corona virus and other influenza viruses. This review also deals with antiviral materials and their mechanism of action. The recent innovations in the development of antiviral textiles are also discussed.

Keywords : Antiviral materials; COVID-19; Influenza virus; Textile; Virus Citation: Nagender Singh & Javed Sheikh, “Antiviral Textiles: An Emerging Paradigm in Protection against the Virus!”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/2 (195-200), (Nov-Oct’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/VWCJR

1. Introduction Due to the spread of deadly viruses, including novel corona virus, fear and uncertainty are prevalent. There are varying efforts taken from various countries against the pandemic arising from the spread of the virus. Most of the counties suffered a considerable loss in terms of economy, power, and their citizen's life. To minimise the spread of the virus, various measures like social distancing and lockdown were attempted in many countries. A similar situation was also witnessed in the recent past but was overcome quickly.

Currently, around the globe, scientists and researchers are working hard to develop a vaccine against novel corona virus and effective medicine for the treatment of virus-infected patients. Human beings widely utilise textile materials as one of their basic needs. Along with this, various textile products like masks and personal protective equipment are widely utilised during the pandemic. Moreover, the viruscontaminated fabric surfaces are also recognised as a possible way of viral transmission. Thus, this also provides an opportunity to restrict the transmission of the virus through infected textile materials by neutralising the virus using antiviral textiles.

Various studies suggest that the virus can stay on the fabric for a long time before going to its inactive state. The novel corona viruses can last on the surfaces of textile, plastics, glass, surgical masks and metals from 10 hours up to 7 days [1, 2, 3]. Novel corona virus can survive on one of the most important pathogen-toxic materials, i.e., copper, for a long time. Even though novel corona virus bound to the surfaces can be effectively deactivated temporarily by cleaning * Corresponding Author: Dr. Javed Sheikh Asst. Professor, Dept. of Textile and Fibre Engineering, I.I.T. Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi – 110 016 E-mail: jnsheikh@iitd.ac.in

solutions comprising 0.1% sodium hypochlorite, 0.5% hydrogen peroxide and 62–71% ethanol [4], the development of efficient, long-lasting, durable and low-toxic antiviral coatings is the essential factor that needs to be taken into account. Moreover, surgical face masks have also shown an effective blockage of corona virus [5]. However, the virus can survive for a day on textile surfaces used to produce N95 or related surgical masks that are widely used for antiviral protection [3].

The characteristics of materials and modes of action are crucial for the production of antiviral textile surfaces, which will preferably attract and hold the viruses long enough for real-time inactivation by specialised physico-chemical processes. Numerous antiviral agents such as alcohols, benzalkonium chloride, hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite are commonly utilised for disinfection, particularly in healthcare facilities [6]. Therefore, it is essential to look for an option available to protect human beings from these viruses. Antiviral textile could inhibit the replication of the virus, which reduces the amount of virus from growing to the point that it may induce pathogenesis.

This will help to reduce viral transmission through infected textile materials.

2. Mechanism of Antiviral Action The antiviral function of various agents can be classified into two specific categories: antiviral agents that specifically inhibit the virus's growth, typically at the cellular level, immunomodulating agents that enhance or alter the defence mechanism to viral infections. Mechanisms of action of antiviral materials usually require inhibition of virus-specific steps in viral replication. Since viral replication relies mainly on host cell metabolism, effective antiviral compounds can inhibit virus-specific activities and leave host cellular activities unchanged, or at least ideally inhibit virus-directed

as compared to host cell-directed macro-molecular proliferation. Thus, antiviral agents usually have a small range of action. While certain compounds display antiviral activity in vitro, most often impair particular host cell activity, are associated with lower therapeutic proportions, and may even have excessive toxicities. Some of the existing antiviral agents inhibit ongoing viral replication, and replication can restart when the drug is withdrawn. Current antiviral treatments are often unsuccessful in destroying nonreplicative or dormant viruses [7].

The mechanisms of actions of antiviral agents are not necessarily established, and thus specific antiviral drug mechanisms are not yet well known. Figure 1 summarises the review of the various mechanisms of antiviral action available in the literature.

is a potential promising candidate for viral inhibition.

Several studies have confirmed that copper can reduce the infection of the non-enveloped or enveloped RNA or DNA viruses, including influenza viruses and other respiratory viruses [10, 11, 12, 13].

Many mechanisms have been proposed when analysing toxic metal ions. In one of the studies, Lund correlated the effect of heavy metal ions with their oxidation potential, where higher oxidation potential leads to a quicker reaction [14]. Samuni et al. proposed that the binding of transition metal ions to different sites in macromolecules/biological polymers could be according to the "Fenton mechanism". While binding, these metal ions experience a redox reaction, making secondary radicals. The macromolecule-metal ion complex is then attacked by the radicals, forming hydrogen peroxide, which again attacks the complex to form the hydroxyl radicals. The original molecule was thus damaged by this cyclic redox reaction that contributes to its inactivity [15, 16]. Sunada et al. further investigated those solid-state cuprous components, like chloride (CuCl), cuprous oxide (Cu2O), iodide (CuI) and sulphide (Cu2S), show higher antiviral activities as compared to solid-state cupric and silver components [17].

Zinc has also shown in-vitro antiviral activity on the DNA (at high concentrations) and viral proteins (at low concentrations) [18]. Read et al. found that zinc concentrations required to attain the antiviral effect (mM) are far more than physiological concentrations (μM), with certain variations in the concentrations expected among various viruses [19]. Sagripanti et al. confirmed some antiviral effects of iron ions. However, limited research has been conducted to analyse the antiviral effect of iron ions [20]. In another study, the antiviral effects of cobalt (III) were also confirmed [21].

Figure 1 Mechanisms of antiviral action

The mechanisms and possible applications of antiviral textiles are summarised in Figure 2.

3. Antiviral Agents for Textiles a. Metal ions The use of specific positively and negatively charged components is a standard antiviral therapeutic method. Silver and copper ions were among the primary antiviral components which were investigated. In their work on "the mechanisms of action of silver and copper ions disinfect the bacteria and viruses", Thurman and Gerba proposed that positively charged components (i.e., cations) affect the RNA/DNA of the viruses [8]. Under near-neutral pH conditions, viruses have some negative charge on their membranes because of the presence of prototrophic groups like amino, imidazole, guanidyl and carboxyl that may induce ionisation. Therefore, cations can be attracted to the surface of viruses where they may experience specific reactions. Such cations can also bind to RNA, DNA, or other enzymes and affect their activities [9].

Numerous forms of materials have been produced to eliminate the source of respiratory viruses; amongst, copper

Figure 2 Mechanism of antiviral action and applications of antiviral textiles

b. Non-metal ions The antiviral activities of the non-metal ions have also been reported. For example, pyridinium-based ions displayed excellent properties causing destruction of virus membrane/envelope that leads to leakage of RNA/DNA of virus [22]. Moreover, another non-metal ion, including quaternary ammonium derivatives as a cation, also showed antiviral activities, possibly because of their effects on the permeability of the virus membrane.

Chitosan, a functional biopolymer, has been explored for its antiviral properties. Chitosan (and chitin) can cause damage to RNA and mRNA and suppress virus replication through interferon synthesis [23]. Wang et al. found the inhibition of HIV, Zika virus, Influenza-A virus and Enterovirus 71 by ferric ammonium citrate (FAC). They found that both citrate ion and iron ion are needed to achieve the antiviral effect of FAC [24]. Tuladhar and colleagues investigated the antiviral activities of hyperbranched quaternary ammonium compounds on influenza-A (H1N1) virus and poliovirus (Sabin 1) [25]. Xue et al. developed a novel quaternary phosphonium-type cationic polyacrylamide (PPAD) and established a model for the mechanism of action of PPAD against adenovirus [26]. c. Graphene Graphene has been shown to have potent antiviral properties.

The antiviral activity of graphene was first reported in 2012, where thin films of reduced graphene oxide and tungsten oxide composite were used for photo-inactivation of viruses in visible-light irradiation [27]. Various studies suggested the antiviral effect of graphene and its derivatives on many viruses. Ye et al. reported the excellent antiviral activity of graphene oxide against porcine epidemic diarrhoea virus and pseudorabies virus [28]. In another study by Yang and colleagues, curcumin-functionalised graphene oxide showed an efficient inhibition of the respiratory syncytial virus infection [29]. The silver nanoparticle-modified graphene oxide (GO-AgNPs) nanocomposites also exhibited antiviral properties causing the antiviral innate immune response against porcine epidemic diarrhoea virus [30]. d. Other antiviral chemicals Some commonly used chemicals like triclosan [31], ascorbic and dehydroascorbic acids [32] also show antiviral properties. In recent years, numerous studies have confirmed the antiviral capacity of the camphor-based derivatives, particularly against Influenza viruses. Sokolova et al. have investigated an antiviral property of camphor-based symmetric diamines and diimine against influenza virus-A (H1N1) [33]. Zarubaev et al. reported the anti-influenza activity of camphor derivative (camphecene) against influenza viruses-A and B [34].

Other natural virus inhibitors, such as phenolic compounds scutellarein, myricetin, and flavonoids, have been recognised to be efficient against the SARS and MERS-CoV viruses [35,36]. These potent natural inhibitors can be extracted from natural herbs like Isatis indigotica [37] and Torreya nucifera [38].

Similarly, antiviral activities of essential oils extracted from various herbs and aromatic plants against viruses, such as HIV, HSV, avian influenza (H5N1) virus, dengue virus and yellow fever virus, are well-known [39–41]. Abdelli et al. investigated the inhibition of angiotensin-converting enzyme-2 receptors of COVID-19 by Ammoides verticillate components (thymol, isothymol, limonene, P-cymene) [42].

Pyankov et al. investigated the antiviral activity of tea tree oil and eucalyptus oils against the airborne influenza virus. The promising results for the future developments of antiviral products were obtained [43]. Jones et al. modified cyclodextrins with mercaptoundecane sulfonic acids, which provided antiviral activity against zika virus, respiratory syncytial virus (RSV), dengue virus and herpes simplex virus (HSV) [44].

4. Antiviral textiles: innovations and developments The development of antiviral textiles that can inactivate the virus present on textile surfaces looks like a promising and challenging area of research. Textile products can protect the human from airborne influenza virus, including novel coronavirus. Recently, various studies have been reported based on the development of novel antiviral textile products such as surgical masks, bed linen and clothing. Innovative antiviral compounds have been introduced that can offer antiviral properties. Park et al. produced an N, N-dodecyl, methylpolyurethane-based (Quat-12-PU) antiviral product that showed antiviral activity against enveloped influenza virus [45]. Imai et al. studied the impact of cotton textiles finished with copper ion-zeolites on the inhibition of the avian influenza virus. The finished textile offered an excellent inhibition of H5N1 infection within a short incubation time [46].

Parthasarathi and Thilagavathi developed a tri-laminate antiviral surgical gown using viscose non-woven as an inner layer, PTFE as a middle layer, and polyester non-woven treated TiO2 as an outer layer. The result suggested the antiviral activity of TiO2 NPs against Hepatitis B, C and HIV viruses only in visible light [47]. In another study, Iyigundogdu et al. developed a novel antimicrobial and antiviral textile product. The cotton textiles were treated with 7% glucagon, 0.03% triclosan and 3% sodium pentaborate pentahydrate solution. The treated cotton textile showed antiviral properties against adenovirus type 5 and poliovirus type 1. The results suggested the suitability of the explored formulation for the development of novel antiviral textile products [48]. Seino et al. investigated an antiviral effect of AgNPs on cotton fabric. The antiviral properties of the treated cotton against Feline Calicivirus and Influenza A viruses were obtained [49]. Kinnamon et al. utilised a graphene oxide transduction film and silver conductive electrodes to develop screen-printed biosensor textile to identify influenza A virus [50]. The development of antiviral textiles with innovative products is slowly gaining momentum. Since the last decade, various antiviral textile inventions have been patented [51, 52].

An invention reported an antiviral textile product prepared using a coating composition comprised of an inorganic phosphoric acid compound, an inorganic silicic acid compound or an inorganic oxide [53]. Another invention reported a fibre product carrying the antiviral substance, a maleic acid component as a monomer unit, in its polymer chain, effective against an avian influenza virus [54]. Another patent demonstrated a process for the production of antiviral fibre using metal ions (Ag, Cu, Zn, Al, Mg, and Ca) and textile products comprising the developed fibres [55]. A patent reveals a fibrous substance comprising a multitude of interwoven threads with a high degree of micro-fibrillation, of which at least a thread is extracted by utilising cyanogen bromide to bind a virus receptor or trap the virus. An antiviral mask was then made, consisting of a non-woven fabric treated with tea extract [56]. Scientists have developed an antiviral face mask with a filter material that can remove and neutralise harmful viruses from inhaled air contaminated with the virus. A surgical face mask with antiviral properties can help in the foul atmosphere and protect users against the influenza virus [57]. The metal impregnated activated carbon cloth has been developed, which is having antiviral and virucidal properties. The developed material can be used in medical gowns, scrubs, bed linen and protective clothing for military purposes [58].

5. Critical comments Although several chemicals were established in making antiviral surfaces, antiviral textiles remained a relatively new concept. Antiviral textile products like antiviral masks, antiviral shirts and antiviral T-shirts are marketed currently in the market. Most commercial antiviral finishes are based on silver ion technology, quaternary ammonium salts, antimicrobial silicones and nanoparticles. Textile technologists and scientists are working together to develop

novel and ground-breaking products. When applied in the broader textile sectors, it will promote new business collaborations that will ultimately transform the world of traditional textiles - pushing ahead to have a solution that provides all technological confidence. Therefore, the development of these new fibres and novel finishes that provide protection against hidden viruses is required. It is an ideal time for antiviral textiles to do their part and develop by separating further from their parent antibacterial technology and incorporating unique antiviral characteristics into the production of next-generation successful antiviral agents.

The durability of antiviral activity on the textile fabric is a question of concern. Apart from that, the toxicity of antiviral agents needs to be investigated because they may cause some harmful effects on the human body. Joint interdisciplinary research from various sectors like textile technology, material science, biotechnology and chemistry will be required to explore the best technology for the development of efficient and durable antiviral textiles.

6. Conclusions The development of antiviral textile products can lead to a win-win situation, whether used to protect users from novel coronavirus or other influenza viruses. Currently, textile technologists and biotechnologists are working on the development of antiviral textiles, which could reduce the spread of novel coronavirus. Several antiviral textile technologies are already available, which could be effectively utilised to protect users from viruses. On the other hand, already available antiviral agents (natural or synthetic) should be used to develop antiviral textiles. Furthermore, most antimicrobial technologies can be extrapolated and studied for their efficacies against various viruses. Therefore, there is an urgent need to establish such technologies to develop protective textiles and clothing.

References [1] Sun, Z., Ostrikov, K., Future antiviral surfaces: Lessons from COVID-19 pandemic, Sustainable Materials and Technologies, 25, e00203, (2020). doi:10.1016/j.susmat.2020.e00203.

[2] Wu, F., Zhao, S., Yu, B., Chen, Y. M., Wang, W., et al., A new coronavirus associated with human respiratory disease in China, Nature, 579 (7798), 265–269, (2020). doi:10.1038/s41586-020-2008-3.

[3] Chin, A. W., Chu, J. T., Perera, M. R., Hui, K. P., Yen, H., et al., Stability of SARS-CoV-2 in different environmental conditions, The Lancet Microbe, 1 (4), e146, (2020). doi:10.1016/s2666-5247(20)30003-3.

[4] Kampf, G., Todt, D., Pfaender, S., & Steinmann, E., Persistence of coronaviruses on inanimate surfaces and their inactivation with biocidal agents, Journal of hospital infection, 104 (3), 246-251, (2020). doi:10.1016/j.jhin.2020.01.022.

[5] Leung, N. H., Chu, D. K., Shiu, E. Y., Chan, K. H., McDevitt, J. J., et al., Respiratory virus shedding in exhaled breath and efficacy of face masks, Nature medicine, 26 (5), 676-680, (2020). doi:10.1038/s41591-020-0843-2.

[6] Kampf, G. Antiseptic Stewardship: Biocide Resistance and Clinical Implications, Springer International Publishing, Switzerland AG: 2018: pp. 694 [7] Dolin, R. Antiviral Agents: General Principles. In Mandell, Douglas, and Bennett's Principles and Practice of Infectious Diseases, Elsevier Inc.,: 2014: pp 528–530.

[8] Thurman, R. B., Gerba, C. P., The molecular mechanisms of copper and silver ion disinfection of bacteria and viruses, Critical reviews in environmental science and technology, 18 (4), 295–315, (1989). doi:10.1080/10643388909388351.

[9] Bishop, N. E., Anderson, D. A., Early interactions of hepatitis A virus with cultured cells: Viral elution and the effect of pH and calcium ions, Archives of virology, 142 (11), 2161–2178, (1997). doi:10.1007/s007050050233.

[10] Borkow, G., Zhou, S. S., Page, T., Gabbay, J., A novel anti-influenza copper oxide containing respiratory face mask, PLoS One, 5 (6), e11295, (2010). doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0011295.

[11] Borkow, G., Lara, H. H., Covington, C. Y., Nyamathi, A., Gabbay, J., Deactivation of human immunodeficiency virus type 1 in medium by copper oxide-containing filters, Antimicrobial agents and chemotherapy, 52 (2), 518–525, (2008). doi:10.1128/AAC.00899-07.

[12] Horie, M., Ogawa, H., Yoshida, Y., Yamada, K., Hara, A., et al., Inactivation and morphological changes of avian influenza virus by copper ions, Archives of virology, 153 (8), 1467–1472, (2008). doi:10.1007/s00705-008-0154-2.

[13] Noyce, J. O., Michels, H., Keevil, C. W., Inactivation of influenza A virus on copper versus stainless steel surfaces, Applied and environmental microbiology, 73 (8), 2748–2750, (2007). doi:10.1128/AEM.01139-06.

[14] Lund, E., The significance of oxidation in chemical inactivation of poliovirus, Archives Gesamte Virusforsch., 12 (5), 648–660, (1963). doi:10.1007/BF01246386.

[15] Samuni, A., Aronovitch, J., Godinder, D., Chevion, M., Czapski, G., On the cytotoxicity of vitamin C and metal ions: A site‐specific Fenton mechanism, European Journal of Biochemistry, 137 (1–2), 119–124, (1983). doi:10.1111/j.14321033.1983.tb07804.x.

[16] Samuni, A., Chevion, M., Czapski, G., Roles of copper and O2 in the radiation-induced inactivation of T7 bacteriophage, Radiation Research, 99 (3), 562–572, (1984). doi:10.2307/3576330.

[17] Sunada, K., Minoshima, M., Hashimoto, K., Highly efficient antiviral and antibacterial activities of solid-state cuprous compounds, Journal of hazardous materials, 235–236, 265–270, (2012). doi:10.1016/j.jhazmat.2012.07.052.

[18] Kumel, G., Schrader, S., Zentgraf, H., Daus, H., Brendel, M., The mechanism of the antiherpetic activity of zinc sulphate, Journal of general virology, 71 (12), 2989–2997, (1990). doi:10.1099/0022-1317-71-12-2989.

[19] Read, S. A., Obeid, S., Ahlenstiel, C., Ahlenstiel, G., The Role of Zinc in Antiviral Immunity, Advances in Nutrition, 10 (4), 696–710, (2019). doi:10.1093/advances/nmz013.

[20] Sagripanti, J. L., Routson, L. B., Lytle, C. D., Virus inactivation by copper or iron ions alone and in the presence of peroxide, Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 59 (12), 4374–4376, (1993). doi:10.1128/aem.59.12.4374-4376.1993.

[21] Chang, E. L., Simmers, C., Knight, D. A., Cobalt complexes as antiviral and antibacterial agents, Pharmaceuticals, 3 (6), 1711–1728, (2010). doi:10.3390/ph3061711.

[22] Xue, Y., Xiao, H., Antibacterial/antiviral property and mechanism of dual-functional quaternized pyridinium-type copolymer, Polymers (Basel), 7 (11), 2290–2303, (2015). doi:10.3390/polym7111514.

[23] Chirkov, S. N., The Antiviral Activity of Chitosan, Applied Biochemistry and Microbiology, 38 (1), 1–8, (2002).

[24] Wang, H., Li, Z., Niu, J., Xu, Y., Ma, L., et al., Antiviral effects of ferric ammonium citrate, Cell Discovery, 4 (1), 14, (2018). doi:10.1038/s41421-018-0013-6.

[25] Tuladhar, E., de Koning, M. C., Fundeanu, I., Beumer, R., Duizer, E., Different virucidal activities of hyperbranched quaternary ammonium coatings on poliovirus and influenza virus, Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 78 (7), 2456–2458, (2012). doi:10.1128/AEM.07738-11.

[26] Xue, Y., Pan, Y., Xiao, H., Zhao, Y., Novel quaternary phosphonium-type cationic polyacrylamide and elucidation of dualfunctional antibacterial/antiviral activity, RSC Advances, 4 (87), 46887–46895, (2014). doi:10.1039/c4ra08634a.

[27] Akhavan, O., Choobtashani, M., Ghaderi, E., Protein degradation and RNA efflux of viruses photocatalysed by graphene-tungsten oxide composite under visible light irradiation, The Journal of Physical Chemistry C, 116 (17), 9653–9659, (2012). doi:10.1021/jp301707m.

[28] Ye, S., Shao, K., Li, Z., Guo, N., Zuo, Y., et al., Antiviral Activity of Graphene Oxide: How Sharp Edged Structure and Charge Matter, ACS applied materials & interfaces, 7 (38), 21578–21579, (2015). doi:10.1021/acsami.5b06876.

[29] Yang, X. X., Li, C. M., Li, Y. F., Wang, J., Huang, C. Z., Synergistic antiviral effect of curcumin functionalised graphene oxide against respiratory syncytial virus infection, Nanoscale, 9 (41), 16086–16092, (2017). doi:10.1039/c7nr06520e.

[30] Du, T., Lu, J., Liu, L., Dong, N., Fang, L., et al., Antiviral Activity of Graphene Oxide-Silver Nanocomposites by Preventing Viral Entry and Activation of the Antiviral Innate Immune Response, ACS Applied Bio Materials, 1 (5), 1286–1293, (2018). doi:10.1021/acsabm.8b00154.

[31] Patra, K., Application of nanotechnology in textile engineering: An overview, Journal of Engineering and Technology Research, 5 (5), 104–111, (2013). doi:10.5897/jetr2013.0309.

[32] Furuya, A., Uozaki, M., Yamasaki, H., Arakawa, T., Arita, M.; et al., Antiviral effects of ascorbic and dehydroascorbic acids in vitro, International journal of molecular medicine, 22 (4), 541–545, (2008). doi:10.3892/ijmm_00000053.

[33] Sokolova, A. S., Yarovaya, O. I., Korchagina, D. V., Zarubaev, V. V., Tretiak, T. S., et al., Camphor-based symmetric diimines as inhibitors of influenza virus reproduction, Bioorganic & medicinal chemistry, 22 (7), 2141–2148, (2014). doi:10.1016/j.bmc.2014.02.038.

[34] Zarubaev, V. V., Garshinina, A. V., Tretiak, T. S., Fedorova, V. A., Shtro, A. A., et al., Broad range of inhibiting action of novel camphor-based compound with anti-hemagglutinin activity against influenza viruses in vitro and in vivo, Antiviral Research, 120, 126–133, (2015). doi:10.1016/j.antiviral.2015.06.004.

[35] Jo, S., Kim, S., Shin, D. H., Kim, M. S., Inhibition of SARS-CoV 3CL protease by flavonoids, Journal of enzyme inhibition and medicinal chemistry, 35 (1), 145–151, (2020). doi:10.1080/14756366.2019.1690480.

[36] Lin, L. T., Hsu, W. C., Lin, C. C., Antiviral natural products and herbal medicines, Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 4 (1), 24–35, (2014). doi:10.4103/2225-4110.124335.

[37] Lin, C. W., Tsai, F. J., Tsai, C. H., Lai, C. C., Wan, L., et al., Anti-SARS coronavirus 3C-like protease effects of Isatis indigotica root and plant-derived phenolic compounds, Antiviral Research, 68 (1), 36–42, (2005). doi:10.1016/j.antiviral.2005.07.002.

[38] Ryu, Y. B., Jeong, H. J., Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. M., Park, J. Y., et al., Biflavonoids from Torreya nucifera displaying SARS-CoV 3CLpro inhibition, Bioorganic & medicinal chemistry, 18 (22), 7940–7947, (2010). doi:10.1016/j.bmc.2010.09.035.

[39] Nagy, M. M., Al-Mahdy, D. A., Abd El Aziz, O. M., Kandil, A. M., Tantawy, M. A., et al., Chemical Composition and Antiviral Activity of Essential Oils from Citrus reshni hort. ex Tanaka (Cleopatra mandarin) Cultivated in Egypt, Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, 21 (1), 264–272, (2018). doi:10.1080/0972060X.2018.1436986.

[40] Ibrahim, N. A., El-Hawary, S. S., Mohammed, M. M. D., Farid, M. A., Abdel-Wahed, N. A. M., et al., Chemical composition, antiviral against avian influenza (H5N1) virus and antimicrobial activities of the essential oils of the leaves and fruits of Fortunella margarita, lour. swingle, growing in Egypt, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 5 (1), 006-012, (2015). doi:10.7324/JAPS.2015.50102.

[41] Sharifi-Rad, J., Salehi, B., Schnitzler, P., Ayatollahi, S. A., Kobarfard, F., et al., Susceptibility of herpes simplex virus type 1 to monoterpenes thymol, carvacrol, p-cymene and essential oils of Sinapis arvensis L., Lallemantia royleana Benth. and Pulicaria

vulgaris Gaertn, Cellular and Molecular Biology, 63 (8), 42–47, (2017). doi:10.14715/cmb/2017.63.8.10.

[42] Abdelli, I., Hassani, F., Bekkel Brikci, S., Ghalem, S., In silico study the inhibition of angiotensin converting enzyme 2 receptor of COVID-19 by Ammoides verticillata components harvested from Western Algeria, Journal of Biomolecular Structure and Dynamics, 1–14, (2020). doi:10.1080/07391102.2020.1763199.

[43] Pyankov, O. V., Usachev, E. V., Pyankova, O., Agranovski, I. E., Inactivation of airborne influenza virus by tea tree and eucalyptus oils, Aerosol Science and Technology, 46 (12), 1295–1302, (2012). doi:10.1080/02786826.2012.708948.

[44] Jones, S. T., Cagno, V., Janeček, M., Ortiz, D., Gasilova, N., et al., Modified cyclodextrins as broad-spectrum antivirals, Science advances, 6 (5), eaax9318, (2020). doi:10.1126/sciadv.aax9318.

[45] Park, D., Larson, A. M., Klibanov, A. M., Wang, Y., Antiviral and antibacterial polyurethanes of various modalities, Applied biochemistry and biotechnology, 169 (4), 1134–1146, (2013). doi:10.1007/s12010-012-9999-7.

[46] Imai, K., Ogawa, H., Bui, V. N., Inoue, H., Fukuda, J., et al., Inactivation of high and low pathogenic avian influenza virus H5 subtypes by copper ions incorporated in zeolite-textile materials, Antiviral Research, 93 (2), 225–233, (2012). doi:10.1016/j.antiviral.2011.11.017.

[47] Parthasarathi, V., Thilagavathi, G., Development of tri-laminate antiviral surgical gown for liquid barrier protection, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 106 (10), 1095–1105, (2015). doi:10.1080/00405000.2014.972711.

[48] Iyigundogdu, Z. U., Demir, O., Asutay, A. B., Sahin, F., Developing novel antimicrobial and antiviral textile products, Applied biochemistry and biotechnology, 181 (3), 1155–1166, (2017). doi:10.1007/s12010-016-2275-5.

[49] Seino, S., Imoto, Y., Kosaka, T., Nishida, T., Nakagawa, T., et al., Antiviral activity of silver nanoparticles immobilised onto textile fabrics synthesised by radiochemical process, MRS Advances. 1 (11), 705–710, (2016). doi:10.1557/adv.2016.43.

[50] Kinnamon, D. S., Krishnan, S., Brosler, S., Sun, E., Prasad, S., Screen printed graphene oxide textile biosensor for applications in inexpensive and wearable point-of-exposure detection of influenza for at-risk populations, Journal of The Electrochemical Society, 165 (8), B3084–B3090, (2018). doi:10.1149/2.0131808jes.

[51] Schonemyr, L., Holmberg, K., Persson. D., Antimicrobial and antiviral product, U.S. Patent 11,793,345, (2008). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20080286225A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[52] Swamy, R., and Swamy, S., Disinfectant composition for textile & related substrates & method of treating a substrate to provide disinfecting antibacterial antiviral & antifungal wash durable optionally enhanced with multifunctional properties, U.S. Patent 9,487,912, (2016). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20200154712A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[53] Sugiura, K., Antiviral agent, coating composition, resin composition and antiviral product, U.S. Patent 16,078,534, (2017). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20190045793A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[54] Matsushita, M., Otsuki, K., Takakuwa, H., Tsunekuni R., Antiviral agents, antiviral fibers and antiviral fiber structures, U.S. Patent 12,679,211, (2009). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20100272668A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[55] Shigita, S., Tsurumi, H., Naka, H., Anti-viral fiber, process for producing the fiber, and textile product comprising the fiber, U.S. Patent 12,635,021, (2007). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20100086617A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[56] Ozawa, S., Arai. J., Hazardous substance removing method, hazardous substance removing material used therein such as air filter, mask, wipe sheet, and the like, and storage method, U.S. Patent 7, 691,646, (2008). https://patents.google.com /patent/US7691646B2/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[57] Biedermann, K., Anti-viral face mask and filter material, U.S. Patent 12,374,104, (2007). https://patents.google.com/patent/ US20090320849A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

[58] Smith, A., Taylor, J., Antiviral Metal Impregnated Activated Carbon Cloth Components, U.S. Patent 12,948,381, (2011). https://patents.google.com/patent/US20110114095A1/en (accessed August 25, 2020).

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/BG9V5

Effect of Formic Acid Pretreatment on the Dyeing of Bamboo Fabric with Reactive Dyes Shweta Tuteja Rakshit* & Shally Agarwal Department of Textile Science, Clothing & Fashion Studies, J.D. Birla Institute, Kolkata Abstract Innovation in textile has brought alternative plant based fibers such as bamboo into the spotlight and as a replacement to petrochemical based synthetic fibers. Bamboo as a raw material is a remarkably sustainable and versatile resource. In this study bamboo fabric was selected and conventionally pretreated with 98% formic acid in five different concentrations. An attempt has been taken to reformulate the dyeing process with the aim of increasing the color fastness and dye uptake capacity of the fiber with different classes of reactive dyes. Bamboo fabric was pre-treated with different levels of concentrations (1%, 2%, 3%, 4% and 5%) followed by exhaust dyeing with Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol), Bi-Functional ME and Mono-Chlorotriazine (Procion) reactive dyes. The physical properties, color fastness properties, color difference K/S and SEM analysis was done for both treated and untreated bamboo fabric and the results were compared for its effectiveness. The results were statistically analyzed using one way ANOVA. On the basis of color difference K/S, fabric strength and SEM analysis it was found that 98% formic acid concentration that gave best results for dye uptake was 1% for Mono-Chlorotriazine dye, 2% for Bi-Functional ME dyes and 3% for Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol ) dye.

Keywords: Bamboo fabric, Color fastness, Dye uptake, Formic acid, K/S, Reactive dye, SEM analysis Citation: Shweta Tuteja Rakshit & Shally Agarwal, “Effect of Formic Acid Pretreatment on the Dyeing of Bamboo Fabric w i t h R e a c t i v e D y e s ” , J o u r n a l o f t h e Te x t i l e A s s o c i a t i o n , 8 2 / 4 ( 2 0 1 - 2 0 6 ) , ( N o v - D e c ’ 2 0 2 1 ) , https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/BG9V5

1. Introduction Dyes can generally be described as colored substances that have affinity to the substrates to which they are being applied.

Dyes are soluble and/or go through an application process which, at least temporarily, destroys any crystal structure by absorption, solution, and mechanical retention, or by ionic or covalent chemical bonds [4].

that is capable of directly reacting with the fiber substrate.

The covalent bonds that attach reactive dye to natural fibers make them among the most permanent of dyes. Reactive dyes are by far the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers [6]. One great advantage in reactive colours is that they have almost a full range of colours and also having brightness and fastness [7].

Organic molecules become colored, and thus useful dye molecule if they contain at least one of each of the radicals called chromophores and auxochromes. The chromophores give the dye molecule its particular color while the auxochrome intensify the hue of the dye molecule color, makes the dye molecule more water soluble, and improves the colorfastness properties of the dyed or printed fiber [3].

The reactivity of these dyes is due to the chlorine atoms attached to the thiazine ring [3]. The reactivity of reactive dyes are determined by two factors i.e. the chemical structure and arrangement of the supporting groups and leaving groups, which jointly form the reactive group and the influence of the chromophoric system on the reactivity of the reactive system [1].

Textiles made from bamboo address the aim of sustainable development by utilizing a renewable resource to make clothes and other textile applications [8]. Currently, bamboo is emerging as a natural, eco-friendly raw material in the textile industry due to its many attractive properties such as fastest growth rate of any known plant, antimicrobial properties, renewability, its biodegradability, its efficient space consumption, its low water use, its organic status and its carbon sequestering abilities [5].

The present investigation was carried out to determine the effect of formic acid pre-treatment at different levels of concentration on dyeing of bamboo fabrics using different classes of reactive dyes.

The bamboo fabric is highly versatile and can be used in bamboo intimate apparels, bamboo non-woven fabric, bamboo sanitary materials, bamboo bathroom series and bamboo fiber socks [5].

Reactive dyes utilize a chromophore attached to a substituent *Corresponding Author: Shweta Tuteja Rakshit Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Science, Clothing & Fashion Studies, J.D. Birla Institute, Kolkata (India) E-mail: shwetatuteja27@rediffmail.com

The specific objectives of the study were: 1. To pretreat the bamboo fabric with five different concentrations of formic acid.

2. To dye the treated bamboo fabric with three different class of reactive dyes.

3. To test the physical properties, SEM, colour strength and colourfastness of the untreated and treated samples.

4. To standardize the pretreatment concentration of the formic acid for all the three class of reactive dyes on bamboo fabric.

2. Materials & Methods 2.1 Collection of Fabrics 100% bamboo fabric was purchased and the constructional parameters of the test fabric are presented below in Table 2.1.

Table 2.1 Construction particulars of test fabric Fabric

Weave

Bamboo

Plain

Threads/inch Ends

Picks

Weight (g/m2)

78

76

124

2.2 Collection of Dyes & Chemicals Reactive dyes of Vinyl sulphone group (Remazol), Bifunctional group (ME Dyes) and Mono-chlorotriazine group (Procion H- Hot brand) was selected for the study. Chemicals used were 98% Formic Acid, Sodium Sulphate (Glauber's salt), Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash), Hydrochloric acid and non-ionic detergent.

2.3 Preparation of Fabric The bamboo fabric was first acid desized with 25ml/l hydrochloric acid at 60ºC for 60 minutes using MLR 1:30 and then scoured with 5gpl non-ionic detergent at boil for 60 minutes. The desized & scoured bamboo fabric was then pretreated with 98% formic acid at varying concentration of 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% & 5% (owm) for 30 minutes at ambient temperature (27oC) [2].

2.4 Dyeing of fabrics The formic acid pre-treated (1% to 5%) samples were dyed with all the three class of reactive dyes (vinyl sulphone group, bi-functional group & mono-chlorotriazine group).

The dyeing recipe (Table 2.2) used has been reported by Gnana Priya & Jeyakodi, 2017 [2].

Table 2.2 Dyeing Recipe

Particulars

Vinyl sulphone (Remazol)

Bifunctional (ME Dyes)

Monochlorotriazine (Procion HHot brand)

Dye

3% (owm)

3% (owm)

3% (owm)

MLR

1:30

1:30

1:30

strength of the bamboo fabrics was measured by the standard established methods.

Dyeing and K/S analysis: The K/S values ('K' and 'S') indicate the absorption coefficient and scattering coefficient respectively of the colorant. AATCC Test Method -135 was used to predict the behavior of the dyes on the textile materials of reactive dyed bamboo fabrics using a Datacolor SF 600 plus spectrophotometer interfaced to a PC. Measurements were taken regarding colour presence, brightness, dullness and colour intensity. Each fabric was folded once so as to give two thickness and average of five readings were taken each time.

SEM: The surface morphology of bamboo fabric was observed in SEM using JOEL JSM-6360 model microscope, Japan.

Color fastness analysis: The treated and dyed samples were washed under condition ISO-III Test Method to determine the color change and staining effect of dyed fabrics. IS: 7661984 standardized crock meter was used to determine the rubbing fastness of reactive dyed fabrics under wet and dry condition to assess the staining property. Perspirometer was used to determine the effect of acid and alkaline perspiration on the fastness properties of colored textiles. Light fastness was carried out according to IS: 2454-1984 method and the samples were exposed in the fade-o-meter.

2.6 Analysis of Data In order to analyze whether there exist any significant difference by varying the concentrations of the formic acid, the one-way ANOVA technique has been used in the analysis.

The hypothesis for the test is as follows: H0: There is no significant difference by varying the concentrations of formic acid (µ1= µ2= µ3) H1: There is a significant difference by varying the concentrations of formic acid (µ1≠ µ2≠ µ3) The average scores of the test results were tabulated in proper manner and the F-statistics was computed.

3. Result and Discussion

Sodium Sulphate (Glauber’s Salt)

60 gpl

60 gpl

70 gpl

Soda Ash

20 gpl

20 gpl

20 gpl

Temp.

60°C

60°C

Boil

Time

2 hours

2 hours

2 hours

The dyed samples were washed with de-ionized water, soaped with 2% (owm) non-ionic soap powder and 1% (owm) soda ash at 60°C for 20 minutes rinsed and dried.

2.5 Testing and Evaluation Measurement of physical properties: The physical property such as thickness, crease recovery angle, stiffness and tensile

3.1 Fabric Thickness Test Fabric thickness was measured for the untreated and treated bamboo fabric dyed with all the three class of reactive dye.

Table 3.1 clearly shows that by varying the concentration of formic acid from 1% to 5% there is no change in the thickness value and it is in range of 0.31mm to 0.32mm.

Table 3.1 Fabric Thickness of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes The statistical analysis revealed no significant effect by varying the concentrations of formic acid in the thickness value in all the classes of reactive dyes (p < 0.5).

Table 3.1 Fabric Thickness of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes Reactive Dyes Concentration Vinyl BiMonoof formic acid Sulphone functional chlorotriazine for pre(Remazol) ME (Procion H) treatment Thickness(mm) Untreated

0.31

0.31

0.32

1%

0.32

0.32

0.32

2%

0.31

0.31

0.32

3%

0.32

0.32

0.32

4%

0.32

0.32

0.32

5%

0.32

0.31

0.32

Reactive Dyes

Perusal of table 3.2 reveals that there is slight increase in the crease recovery angle at all the concentrations of formic acid as compared with the untreated one for all the three different class of reactive dye exhibiting better recovery from crease after treatment. The crease recovery angle is higher in warp direction as compared to filling direction.

The statistical analysis indicated that bamboo fabric pretreated with five different concentrations of formic acid and dyed with mono-chlorotriazine dye and bi-functional dye showed significant difference (p > 0.5) increase recovery angle in both warp and weft direction.

Table 3.2 Crease Recovery Angles of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes (Warp & Weft Directions) Reactive Dyes Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol)

3.3 Fabric Stiffness Test Stiffness of the untreated and treated reactive dyed bamboo fabric was observed by measuring bending length.

Perusal of the table 3.3 reveals that there is very slight decrease in the bending length values of the treated samples in both warp and weft directions.

Table 3.3 Bending Length of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes (Warp & Weft Directions)

3.2 Fabric Crease Recovery Test Crease recovery angle was measured for both warp and weft directions of fabrics and compared with untreated samples.

Concentration of formic acid for pretreatment

In case of vinyl sulphone dye statistical analysis reveal that there is no significant difference ( p < 0.5) in warp direction whereas there is a significant difference (p > 0.5) increase recovery angle in weft direction.

MonoBi-functional chlorotriazine ME (Procion H)

Crease Recovery Angles (°) Warp

Weft

Warp Weft Warp

Weft

Untreated

108.4

88.4

107.8

88.2

108.4

88.2

1%

109.8

89.8

110.0

88.4

110.6

89.0

2%

110.4

91.6

111.4

90.8

110.6

91.4

3%

111.0

93.5

113.4

93.0

113.2

93.4

4%

112.4

94.8

115.4

92.8

113.8

95.4

5%

112.8

96.8

116.0

95.2

115.4

96.4

Concentration of formic acid for pretreatment

Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol)

MonoBi-functional chlorotriazine ME (Procion H)

Bending Length (cm) Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp

Weft

Untreated

1.3

1.0

1.2

0.9

1.3

0.8

1%

1.1

0.8

1.0

0.8

1.1

0.7

2%

0.9

0.9

0.9

1.0

1.0

0.8

3%

1.2

0.9

1.1

0.8

1.0

0.9

4%

1.0

0.7

1.1

0.7

1.2

0.6

5%

1.2

0.9

0.8

1.0

0.8

0.9

The statistical analysis indicated that bamboo fabric pretreated with five different concentrations of formic acid and dyed with all the three classes of reactive dye showed significant difference (p > 0.5) in bending length in both warp and weft direction.

3.4 Fabric Tensile Strength Test The breaking strength test of the untreated and treated reactive dyed bamboo fabric was carried out in both warp and weft directions. It was noted that there is decreasing trend in the tensile strength values with the increasing concentration of the formic acid of the treated samples in both warp and weft directions (Table 3.4). Statistical analysis revealed that varying the concentrations did cause significant difference (p>0.5) in the tensile strength values of treated and reactive dyed bamboo fabric in both warp and weft directions.

Table 3.4 Tensile Strength of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes (Warp & Weft Directions)

Table 3.4 Tensile Strength of Untreated & Pretreated Bamboo Fabric at Different Concentrations of Formic Acid for the Different Class of Reactive Dyes (Warp & Weft Directions) Reactive Dyes Concentration of formic acid for pre-treatment Untreated 1% 2% 3% 4% 5%

Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol) Warp 124.2 123.9 123.5 123.0 121.2 120.0

Weft 110.5 109.2 10.9.1 108.5 108.2 108.1

Bi-functional ME Tensile Strength (MPa) Warp Weft 122.2 109.9 122.1 108.9 121.7 108.5 121.9 108.1 121.2 107.2 120.5 106.5

Mono-chlorotriazine (Procion H) Warp 121.5 121.0 120.5 120.7 119.9 119.7

Weft 110.0 108.8 108.8 108.6 108.3 107.2

3.5 Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) Analysis of Bamboo Fabric The analysis of SEM images of untreated and treated (formic acid) and reactive dyed woven bamboo fabrics are given in the representative Figures 3.1, 3.2 & 3.3

It is very much clear from the figures for the three different class of reactive dyes that at the lower concentration of 1%, 2% & 3% their exist swelling along the direction of crosssection. Also the surface of the fiber was etched to some extent in this processing system which may be due to partial degradation of cellulose, which can be seen in the form of deposition on the surface.

As the concentration is increasing (4% and 5%), the morphological changes of fiber treated with formic acid can be seen, with the increased degree of degradation mainly at 5% concentration. Fibrils of the fibers can be seen due to breakdown of cellulose chains in bamboo fabric dyed with the three classes of reactive dye

3.6 Estimation of Surface Colour Strength and Related Colour Interaction Parameters Table 3.5 shows the effect of the different pretreatment concentrations of formic acid on K/S values along with other colour interaction parameter, including total colour difference (ΔE), changes in hue (ΔH), changes in chroma (ΔC), general metamerism index (MI) and the colour difference index (CDI) values indicating overall dispersion in the colour difference data by a single indicator.

It may be noted that the variation in ΔE values for changes in pretreatment concentrations are not much variable ranging from 67.449 to 69.994 (Vinyl Sulphone), 75.461 to 76.993 (Bi-Functional ME) & 68.817 to 70.696 (Procion H).

Table 3.5 Colour Strength and Related Parameters of Untreated and Pre- Treated (Formic Acid) Bamboo Fabric Dyed with Reactive dyes Varying K/S at MI ΔE ΔL Δa Δb ΔC ΔH CDI Paramet λmax (LABD) Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol) Dye

Control

8.691

68.420

-47.811

32.938

36.200

40.799

-27.034

--

---

1%

8.614

67.449

-47.237

32.081

35.901

39.964

-26.850

0.35

-146.18

2%

9.007

68.537

-47.061

32.870

37.445

41.595

-27.431

0.12

-502.207

3%

9.808

69.994

-49.145

33.662

36.753

41.706

-27.285

0.28

-199.094

4%

8.376

68.035

-47.114

32.842

36.474

40.913

-27.113

0.26

-2254.34

5%

8.112

69.219

-48.285

33.253

36.798

41.434

-27.259

0.30

-455.385

Bi-Functional ME Dye Control

1.094

76.804

-52.221

56.312

0.898

52.366

20.727

--

---

1%

1.094

76.993

-52.498

56.309

1.081

52.350

20.769

16.59

1.841212

2%

3.620

76.167

-51.533

56.084

0.529

52.168

20.597

16.47

1.825883

3%

3.605

76.125

-51.804

55.779

0.264

51.886

20.475

16.53

1.817306

4%

3.446

75.461

-51.127

55.501

-0.208

51.652

20.310

16.20

1.831599

5%

3.256

77.595

-54.131

55.576

1.451

51.593

20.711

16.52

1.885532

Mono-Chlorotriazine (Procion H) Dye Control

8.359

70.429

-50.692

48.762

-3.587

45.422

18.096

--

---

1%

9.449

70.696

-50.311

49.578

-2.955

46.122

18.425

0.31

80.6912

2%

7.797

68.817

-48.292

48.893

-3.630

45.448

18.115

0.09

228.5799

3%

8.905

70.081

-49.692

49.336

-2.819

45.861

18.405

0.23

100.4464

4%

8.383

69.590

-48.881

49.434

-3.116

46.005

18.354

0.02

106.7823

5%

8.383

70.265

-49.874

49.405

-2.983

45.955

18.381

0.10

93.68157

ΔL, Δa, and Δb indicate further implication of the colour difference in terms of lightness / darkness (ΔL), redness / greenness (Δa) and blueness / yellowness (Δb) respectively and analysis of these through individual colour difference parameters for pre-treated reactive dyed bamboo fabric shows very less variations in all the cases. Changes in hue (ΔH) for vinyl sulphone class of dye was found to be negative, indicating that there is no major change in predominating hue, except showing some hypsochromic or bathochromic shift in the colour / tone.

However, for the other two class of reactive dye it was a positive ΔH value.

The MI varies from 0.02 to 0.31 (Vinyl Sulphone), 16.20 to 16.59 (Bi-functional ME dyes) and 0.12 to 0.35 (Procion H) exhibiting that the data is not much widely dispersed in the respective class of dye and are within a particular control condition.

3.7 Colorfastness Testing 3.7.1 Wash Fastness The washing fastness of all the samples was found to be good to very good. Both the test specimens (bamboo and

cotswool) remained almost unstained and there was no significant color change of the dyed samples for all the samples dyed with reactive dyes (Table 3.6, 3.7 & 3.8) 3.7.2 Crocking (Rubbing) Fastness Table 3.6, 3.7 & 3.8 exhibits the crocking fastness rating. It can be seen that it was excellent for fabrics in dry state and considerably good for the fabrics in wet state. Among the wet and dry test specimen for all the three class for reactive dye wet specimen stained slightly more than dry specimens for all the three class of reactive dyes.

3.7.3 Perspiration Fastness Color fastness to perspiration test was conducted both against acid and alkaline artificial solutions of perspiration and it was observed that both untreated and treated bamboo fabrics dyed with different class of reactive dye showed best results for alkaline perspiration solution (Table 3.6, 3.7 & 3.8) 3.7.4 Light Fastness Both the untreated and treated bamboo samples, dyed with three different class of dye showed excellent to outstanding light fastness on grey scale (Table 3.6, 3.7 & 3.8)

Table 3.6 Results for colourfastness to Light, Washing, Crocking & Perspiration for Vinyl Sulphone (Remazol) Dyes

Washing Fastness Conc. of Formic Acid Untreated 1% 2% 3% 4% 5%

Staining Bamboo

Cotswoo l

3/4 4 3/4 4 4 4

3/4 3/4 3/4 4 4 4

Colou r chang e 4 4 4 4 4/5 4/5

Crocking fastness Dry 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5

Wet

4/5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4

Perspiration fastness Staining Bamboo Cotswool

Colour change

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

4/5 4/5 4 4 4 4

4/5 4/5 4 4/5 4 4

5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4

4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5

5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5

4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4 4

Light Fastness

7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7 7

Table 3.7 Results for colourfastness to Light, Washing, Crocking & Perspiration for Bi-Functional ME Dyes

Washing Fastness Conc. of Formic Acid Untreated 1% 2% 3% 4% 5%

Staining Bamboo

Cotswoo l

3/4 3/4 4 4 4 4

3/4 3/4 3/4 4 4 4

Colou r chang e 4 4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5

Crocking fastness Dry 5 5 5 5 5 5

Wet

4/5 4/5 4 4/5 4/5 5

Perspiration fastness Staining Bamboo Cotswool

Colour change

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

4/5 4/5 4/5 4 5 4/5

4 4 4 4 4 4

4/5 4/5 4 4/5 4/5 4

5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5

5 5 5 5 5 5

4/5 4/5 5 5 5 5

Light Fastness

7/8 7/8 7 7 7 7

Table 3.8 Results for colourfastness to Light, Washing, Crocking & Perspiration for Mono-Chlorotriazine (Procion -H)

Washing Fastness Conc. of Formic Acid Untreated 1% 2% 3% 4% 5%

Staining Bamboo

Cotswoo l

3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 4 4

3/4 3/4 4 4 4 4

Colou r chang e 4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5

Crocking fastness Dry 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5

Wet

5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4

4. Conclusion Hence, it can be inferred that formic acid at low concentration can be used safely as a pre-treatment in dyeing bamboo fabrics with reactive dyes of all the three classes (vinyl sulphone, mono-chlorotriazine and bi-functional dyes). 1%, 2% and 3% concentration of formic acid have showed good results when subjected to physical tests such as tensile strength, crease recovery angle and bending length.

The SEM analysis have also showed that 1% to 3% acid concentration have shown less degree of degradation compared to 4% and 5% concentration. The K/S readings

Perspiration fastness Staining Bamboo Cotswool

Colour change

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

Al.

Ac.

4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4 4

4/5 4/5 4 4 4 4

5 5 4/5 4/5 4 4

4/5 4/5 4 4/5 4/5 4/5

5 5 5 5 5 4/5

4/5 4 4 4 4 4

Light Fastness

7/8 7/8 7/8 7 7 7

have shown maximum value of optical density at 1% for mono-chlorotriazine dye, 2% for bi-functional ME dye and 3% for vinyl sulphone (remazol) dye. The color fastness test has also proved that formic acid pre-treatment at low concentration have shown excellent to good fastness properties on bamboo fabrics.

From the study, it may thus be summarized that the optimum condition for pre-treatment concentration of formic acid can be 3% for vinyl sulphone (remazol) dye, 2% for Bifunctional ME dye and 1% for mono-chlorotriazine class of dye.

References [1] Alberghina, G.; Amato, M.E. & Fisichela, S. Latest development in the dyeing of cellulosic with reactive dyes. Colourage, 35 (2), 44, (1987-88) [2] Gnana Priya, K. & Jeyakodi Moses, J. (2017). Comparative study between modal and cotton after formic acid treatment.

International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology, 6 (10), 19679-19688, (2017). doi:10.15680/IJIRSET.2017.0610090 [3] Gohl, E.P.G. & Vilensky, L.D. Textile Science. Darya Ganj, New Delhi: CBS Publishers & Distributors, (2005) [4] Gurses, A.; Acikyldz, M. Gunes, K. & Gurses, M.S. Dyes and Pigments: Their Structure and Properties. US: New York, Springer, (2016) [5] Munjai, K. & Kashyap, R. Bamboo Fiber: An approach toward Sustainable Development. International Journal of Science and Research, 4 (4), 1080-1083, (2015) [6] Shah, N.H. Studies in Reactive dyes. Shodhganga: A Reservoir of Indian Thesis, (1991) [7] Venugopal, B.R. Dyeing of silk. Colourage. 36 (6), 36-39, (1991) [8] Waite, M. Sustainable textiles: the role of bamboo and a comparison of bamboo textile properties. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 6 (2), 1-21, (2009)

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Central Of ice Shifted to: 702, Santosh Apartment, 7th Floor, Plot No. 72-A, Dr. M. B. Raut Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai – 400 028 INDIA Tel.: +91-22-2446 1145, Fax: +91-22-2447 4971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org

For Advertisements in Journal of the Textile Association Contact taicnt@gmail.com / jb.soma@gmail.com

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/7NHR3

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/7NHR3

1. Introduction The textile industry has seen a tremendous increase in the use of newer cellulosic fibres like hemp, banana, etc. Cotton and other fibers like hemp, banana, and jute are increasingly being blended to fulfill industry demand. It is expected that blending these fibers with cotton will not only enhance textile qualities but also save cotton for other uses. The apparel industry uses cotton more than any other natural fiber. A majority of the world's insecticide market is accounted for by cotton, despite cotton contributing only 2.4% of all arable land [1]. Among the textile raw materials, hemp is considered the most sustainable to replace cotton. On average, one acre of Hemp can produce two to three times more fiber than an acre of cotton. A hemp crop does not require pesticides.

Hemp needs one-third of the water that cotton needs. The strength of hemp varies from three to eight times that of cotton (based on how it is processed). Textile made from hemp is breathable, moisture-absorbing, UV-protective, and antimicrobial.

The main chemical constituents of hemp fibres are cellulose (about 75%), hemicelluloses (about 15%), and lignin (about 4%) [2]. Various structural and application-based studies on hemp fibres are carried out [3 -5]. These studies discussed surface morphology, physical properties, and end-use application of hemp fibres. No study has revealed the method of quantification of fibres in hemp and cotton blends. There are several methods such as chemical, microscopic, gravimetric, etc. are available to identify and quantify the b l e n d s o f C o t t o n / P o l y e s t e r, C o t t o n / w o o l , a n d Cotton/Viscose.[ 6, 7]. The quantification of fibers from a *Corresponding Author: Dr. M.S. Parmar Director, Northern India Textile Research Association, Sector-23, Raj Nagar, Ghaziabad – 201 002 drmsparmar@nitratextile.org

blend of cotton with unconventional fibres such as hemp, bamboo, flax, etc. is very difficult as both fibres are cellulosebased. To quantify cotton/hemp blends, there is no standard method. In light of the high popularity of these cellulosic blends, it became necessary to develop a reliable method for quantifying these unconventional fibre blends. In this study, the moisture regains property of cotton and hemp fibers was used to evaluate the blend percentage.

2. Material and Methods For this study cotton and Hemp, fibres were sourced from NITRA. Three fabric of unknown blend ratio of cotton and hemp was purchased from the market.

Five blends ratios of cotton and hemp fibres ( 80% Cotton : 20% Hemp, 60% Cotton : 40% Hemp, 50% Cotton : 50% Hemp, 40% Cotton : 60% Hemp, and 20% Cotton : 80% Hemp) were prepared at the NITRA pilot plant. Along these blends, 100% Cotton fibres and 100% Hemp fibres were also taken for the study.

2.1 Identification of fibre Identification of fibres was carried out using four methods as per the guideline of AATCC 20. For identification, reaction to flame (burning test), the solubility of fibre, microscopic analysis, dyeabaility, and FTIR methods were used.

Burning test: Under the burning test, a small fibre or yarn is held in tweezers and brought near the small flame coming out of the spirit lamp. Burning behaviour of the fibres in terms of melt, shrink, continues to burn was observed. Also observed type of burning smell.

Solubility test: In the solubility test, various chemicals are used to observe the solubility of the fibres. In which 10 mg of fibres were taken into a test tube and 70% sulphuric acid (1 ml) is added.

Microscopic test: A high-resolution projection microscope of Zeiss make was used to see the longitudinal structure of fibres.

Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) study: Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectra were recorded on Perkin Elmer UATR TWO instruments using ATR method to confirm the presence of cotton and Hemp. FTIR spectra was takend in between 450 cm-1 and 4000 cm-1 wavenumbers.

Dyeing Tests for Fibers: In this study, known and unknown fibre blends were reacted with reactive dye as per the shade card provided by the dye manufacturer.

2.2 Moisture regain Moisture regains of fibres and fabric samples were determined as per the guideline of IS 199 test method. For this purpose, a drying oven and electronic balance were used.

In this study, an accurately weighed specimen was taken in to clean and dry tared weighing beaker. This beaker along with fibre test specimen was placed in the drying oven and dries the specimen at 105±3oC for constant mass and determines the oven-dry mass of the specimen. This process is repeated to all fibres as shown in Table-1. Now, these fibres one by one (as shown in Table 1) was exposed to at three different relative humidity (RH) and temperature like i) 65±2% RH & 27±2oC of temperature, ii) 80±2% RH & 20±2oC of temperature, and iii) 50±2% RH & 30±2oC of temperature in a conditioning chamber for 24 hours. Ten readings of each sample were taken and an average was calculated. A calibration curve was plotted between blend percentage of fibres and corresponding moisture regain at different humidity and temperature conditions. The same process was repeated for the unknown blend of cotton and hemp fabric samples.

structures of fibres of known as well as unknown blends were evaluated using Microscopic. The fibres were extracted from the known as a well unknown blend. The structures of fibres are shown in Figure-1. The longitudinal and cross-sectional view of cotton fibre is clearly shown in Fig. 1a and Fig. 1b respectively. The longitudinal view of hemp fibre ( Fig. 1c) showed a clean rough surface. The cross-sectional view of hemp showed fibre bundle with a small lumen (Fig. 1d). As per the earlier study, the hemp fiber's cross-section has an irregular shape, which is not constant through its length [8], [9], [10]. A similar cross-sectional view was observed in this study. From this analysis, it is clear that the fibres are cotton and hemp.

a)Longitudinal view of Cotton structure

b) Cross sectional view of cotton

2.3 Statistical Analysis The experimental data were analyzed using SPSS (version 20). The null hypothesis (H0) states that there is no relationship between fibre blend percentage and moisture regain. An alternative hypothesis states the possibility of a relationship between fibre blend percentage and moisture regain. H0 is rejected if p value is less than the predetermined significance level which is ideally 0.05.

3. Result and Discussion

c) Longitudinal view of Hemp structure

3.1 Identification of fibres in the known and unknown blend: Burning test: By doing this test, it was found that the known and unknown blend of fibres used in the study did not melt and shrink. They burn like paper. This test showed the blends are made out of cellulosic fibres.

Solubility test: All the fibres and their blends are dissolved in 70% sulphuric acid. This test further indicated that these fibres were cellulosic. d)Cross-sectional view of Hemp

Microscopic test: The longitudinal and cross-sectional

Fig. 1: Longitudinal and cross-sectional view of Cotton (a and b) and Hemp (c and d) fibres

3.2 Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) study: To further support microscopic analysis, and FTIR study was carried out on the blended fabric. The results of FTIR of blended fabric sample was compared with the FTIR of individual cotton and Hemp fibres.

The FTIR spectra of cotton, hemp, and a blend of hempcotton are shown in Fig 2. The typical functional groups and their corresponding wavenumbers are given in Table-1. It can be observed from the spectra that in all three, broad peaks were obtained at around 3330 cm-1, represent characteristics of the -OH functional group present in cotton and hemp in the form of cellulose. A peak was also observed in between 2850 to 2902 cm-1 region indicates C– H stretching. A peak around 1640 cm-1 is due to the adsorbed water molecules. In hemp

fibre spectra, a peak was obtained at 1505 cm-1 which indicate the presence of lignin. A similar peak was seen in cotton-hemp blended fabric. This confirmed the presence of hemp in the cotton-hemp blended fabric. This peak was not present in cotton as cotton did not contain lignin. The peak at around 1430 cm-1 represents HCH and OCH in-plane bending vibration and the peak at around 1370 cm-1 showed CH bending. Peak 1280 cm-1 is due to CH deformation stretch. The characteristic peaks at about 1030 cm−1 correspond to the C–O and O–H stretching vibration, which includes polysaccharides in cellulose. The peak at around 894 cm-1 represents COC, CCO and CCH deformation & stretching. A peak at 661 cm-1 is due to C-OH out-of-plane bending.

Table-1: IR absorption frequencies of cotton, Hemp, and their blend

Wavenumber (cm -1) of cotton as per Fig. 2a

Wavenumber (cm -1) of hemp as per Fig. 2b

Wavenumber (cm -1) of cotton and hemp blend as per Fig. 2c

Peak characteristics

References

3330

3336

3330

H bounded OH stretch

[11, 12]

2850

2887

2902

C-H stretching (Cellulose, Hemicellulose)

[11]

1635

1650

1654

Adsorbed H2O

[11]

-

1505

1505

Lignin

[11, 13, 14]

HCH and OCH inplane bending vibration

1429

1429

1426

1368

1360

1362

CH bending (deformation stretch)

[11, 15]

1280

1280

1280

CH deformation stretch

[16]

1029

1027

1029

C–O stretch

[17]

894

897

895

661

658

661

FTIR of Cotton

NOV-DEC, 2021 Volume 82 No. 4

COC, CCO, and CCH deformation and stretching C-OH out-of-plane bending

[11]

[18] [11]

FTIR of Hemp 211

FTIR of Cotton and Hemp blend (Unknown blend ratio) Fig. 2 FTIR Spectra of cotton, Hemp, and their blend clearly showed that both the fibres are containing cellulose as reactive dyes are used to dye cellulosic fibres.

Fig. 3: Effect of RH and Temperature on moisture regain

3.3 Statistical Analysis The ANOVA results for studying the relationship between blend percentage and moisture regain at 65± 2% RH and 27 ± 2°C temperature are shown in Table 2. The null hypothesis (Ho) was rejected as the p-value was less than a predetermined significance level (0.05). The regression coefficient (R2) values were found to be 0.970, which indicated a very strong relationship between the blend percentage and moisture regain.

As 65± 2 per cent relative humidity and 27 ± 2°C temperature are the standard exposure conditions for testing textiles as per IS: 6359, these conditions were selected for further experiments. A curve (Fig 4) is plotted between various blends of fibres against moisture regain. This is a calibration curve. Now moisture regains of unknown blends (Sample-1 and Sample-2) are determined (Table-3) as per the standard method and compared with the calibration curve as shown in Fig.40. The point on calibration curves where the extra plotting line from moisture regain of the blend (Y-axis) intercept, is the blend ratio.

Table-2: Univariate ANOVA between Blend Percentage vs. Moisture Regain Dependent Variable: MOISTURE REGAIN

Source

Type III Sum of Squares

Corrected 107.872a Model Intercept 6469.068 BLEND % 107.872 Error

3.316

df

Mean Square

F

Sig.

6

17.979

341.548

.000

1 6469.068 122895.971 .000 6

17.979

63

.053

341.548

.000

Total 6580.256 70 Corrected 111.188 69 Total a. R Squared = 0.970 (Adjusted R Squared = 0.967) 3.4 Quantification of fibres in the known and unknown blend: The moisture regains of all fibres and blends were determined as per IS 199 after exposing at i) 65±2% RH & 27±2oC of temperature, ii) 80±2% RH & 20±2oC of temperature, and iii) 50±2% RH & 30±2oC of temperature conditions for 24 hours. The effect of relative humidity and temperature on moisture regain are shown in Fig. 3. It is clear from the figure that the higher the percentage of hemp fibre in the blend, the higher will be the moisture regain percentage of the blend. Similarly, with the increase in Humidity percentage, the moisture regains of fibres increases.

Besides, three known blends were also prepared to verify this new approach to determine blend compositions. The results of both the known blends as per the new approach of blend analysis are also given in Table-3 Table-3 Moisture regain of blends

Cotton / Hemp blend ratio

Moisture regain(%) as per the standard method

Cotton/Hemp blend ratio as per new approach

65± 2% RH and 27 ± 2°C temperature 70% Cotton: 30% Hemp

8.72

71% Cotton: 29% Hemp

55% Cotton: 45% Hemp

9.23

56% Cotton: 44% Hemp

30% Cotton: 70% Hemp

10.30

32% Cotton: 68% Hemp

Unknown Sample -1

9.41

49% Cotton: 51% Hemp

Unknown Sample -2

10.10

40% Cotton: 60% Hemp

Fig. 4: Blend % of cotton and Hemp 4. Conclusion 1. The qualitative studies like burning, solubility and dyeing tests indicated that both the fibres are cellulosic. In the burn test, both the fibres did not melt and shrink. They burn like paper, which is a characteristic of cellulose. While in the solubility tests, fibre dissolves in sulphuric acid-like cellulose. Both the fibres present in the blend are dyeable with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes are used to dye cellulosebased fibres.

2. The longitudinal and cross-sectional views of fibres showed that there is cotton and hemp fibre in the blend.

3. The Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectra of cotton and hemp fibres are very similar. Except in hemp fibre spectra, a peak was obtained at 1505 cm-1 which indicate the presence of lignin. A similar peak was seen in cotton-hemp

blended fabric. This confirmed the presence of hemp in the cotton-hemp blended fabric.

4. As per univariate ANOVA between Blend Percentage vs.

Moisture Regain, the null hypothesis (Ho) was rejected as the p-value was less than a pre-determined significance level (0.05). The regression coefficient (R2) values were found to be 0.970, which indicated a very strong relationship between the blend percentage and moisture regain.

5. The analysis of known and unknown blends using a new approach of blend analysis showed the value of known blends are quite close to the actual blend percentage of cotton and hemp fibres. The value of two unknown blends was found to be 49% Cotton: 51% Hemp and 40% Cotton: 60% Hemp.

References [1] Meenakshi Ahirwar & B. K. Behera, Development of hemp-blended cotton fabrics and analysis on handle behaviour, low-stress mechanical and aesthetic properties, The Journal of The Textile Institute, April 2021.

[2) M M M Rahman & M H Sayed-Esfahani, Study of surface characteristics of Hemp fibres using scanning electron microscope, Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol 4, September 10, 1979, pp. 115-120.]

[3] https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0021998311413623 seen on 08.08.2021, [4] Asim Shahzad, A Study in Physical and Mechanical Properties of Hemp Fibres, Open Access Volume 2013 |Article ID 325085 | https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/325085 [5] João P. Manaia, Ana T. Manaia, and Lúcia Rodriges, Industrial Hemp Fibers: An Overview, Fibers 2019, 7(12), 106, 4.

[6] Philp H Greaves, Fibre identification and the quantitative analysis of fibre blends, Coloration Technology, Volume 20, Issue 1, June 1990, page 32-39 [7] AATCC 20 & 20A [8] Kabir, M.M.; Wang, H.; Lau, K.T.; Cardona, F. Tensile Properties of Chemically Treated Hemp Fibres as Reinforcement for Composites. Compos. Part B Eng. 2013, 53, 362–368.

[9] Pil, L.; Bensadoun, F.; Pariset, J.; Verpoest, I. Why Are Designers Fascinated by Flax and Hemp Fibre Composites?

Compos. Part A Appl. Sci. Manuf. 2016, 83, 193–205.

[10] L. Y. MWAIKAMBO and M. P. ANSELL, Mechanical properties of alkali treated plant fibres and their potential as reinforcement materials. I. Hemp fibres, J MATER SCI 4 1 (2 0 0 6 ) 2 4 8 3 –2 4 9 6 [11] Dasong Dai and Mizi Fan, Characteristic and Performance of Elementary Hemp Fibre, Materials Sciences and Applications, 2010, 1, 336-342 [12] Mwaikambo, L. Y. & Ansell, M. P. Chemical modification of hemp, sisal, jute, and kapok fibers by alkalization. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 84(12), 2222–2234 (2002).

[13] Abdul Khalil, H. P. S., Alwani, M. S., Ridzuan, R., Kamarudin, H. & Khairul, A. Chemical composition, morphological characteristics, and cell wall structure of Malaysian oil palm fibers. Polym. Plast. Technol. Eng. 47(3), 273–280 (2008).

[14] LOJEWSKA, J., MISKOWIEC,P., T.IN PRONIEWICZ, L.M, Cellolose oxidative and hydrolytic degradation: In situ FTIR approach, Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2005, Vol 88, pp 515-520.

[15] H. Zhang, and L. M. Zhang, Structure and Properties of Hemp Fabric Treated with Chitosan and Dyed with Mixed Epoxy-Modified Silicone Oil, 18 June 2009 in Wiley InterScience, (www.interscience.wiley.com) [16] Igor Maria De Rosa, I. M., Kenny, J. M., Puglia, D., Santulli, C. & Sarasini, F. Morphological, thermal and mechanical characterization of okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) fibres as potential reinforcement in polymer composites. Compos.

Sci. Technol. 70(1), 116–122 (2010).

[17] Taslima Ahmed Tamanna, Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, Mohammad Abul Hasan Shibly & Ayub Nabi Khan, Characterization of a new natural fiber extracted from Corypha taliera fruit, Scientific Reports volume 11, Article number: 7622 (2021) [18] Y.S; YOO, D.I, SHIN, Y. IN SEO, G., FTIR analysis of cellulose treated with sodium hydroxide and carbon dioxide, Carbohydrate Research, 2005, vol. 340, pp. 417-428

Call for Articles Journal of the Textile Association Journal of the Textile Association (JTA) is open access bimonthly prestigious Peer Reviewed Journal. Blind Review Process is being followed to ensure the integrity of the blind peer review for submission to this journal. Every effort is made to prevent the identities of the authors and reviewers from being known to each other. For this the reviewer should not be from the same organization as that of the author. The author should submit three reviewers, which are related to the ield of the subject paper with full contact details and reasoning for suggesting this reviewer.

JTA welcomes Original Manuscripts, Research Papers, Review Paper and Case Studies from the researchers, academicians and business people all around the globe. Especially we are publishing new and emerging areas of Textile Science, Technology, Engineering and Management. Your contribution of Research & Review Article is an honor for us. Follow the Guidelines.

Send to: jtaeditor@gmail.com

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/RJH3D

Role of Organic Production System in Improving Sericulture Tanvi Singh & Rachna Kapila* Institute of Home Economics, University of Delhi, New Delhi, India Abstract: Silk, the 'Queen of Fabrics' is produced by technique called Sericulture. Sericulture is the wholesome process by which silkworms are cultivated to obtain silk. It is an important agro based industry which provides employment to the unemployed farmers and improve their living standards. Majority of the silk, in India, is produced by Mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori L. that feeds on mulberry varieties and derives required nutrients for growth and development. In sericulture, nutrition plays an important role. The nutritional grade of mulberry leaves, on which the silkworm feeds, determines the health and growth of silkworm as well as the economic traits of produced silk. Thus, the amount and superiority of raw silk production and resultant development of sericulture sector depends on the mulberry leaves. Increasing use of organic products like vermicompost, vermiwash, farm yard manure, oil cakes, press mud play an important role in promotion of quality silk production. The present article reviews the possible organic inputs in sericulture, their usage, importance and their role in improvement of sericulture.

Keywords: Bombyx mori, Mulberry, Organic products, Sericulture, Vermicompost Citation: Tanvi Singh & Rachna Kapila “Role of Organic Production System in Improving Sericulture”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/4 (214-217), (Nov-Dec’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/RJH3D

1. Introduction Silk is a comfortable fabric with outstanding properties like luster, heat retention, water absorption and therefore, has been used as textile since ancient [1]. It is known as 'The Queen of Fabrics' and its technique of production is called Sericulture. Sericulture is the wholesome process by which silkworms are cultivated to obtain silk. The word sericulture is derived from the Greek word 'Sericos' which means silk and the English word 'culture' which means rearing [2]. It is an important agro-based industry that provides employment to the unemployed farmers and improves their living standards. Globally, Asia is the major silk producer and contributes more than 95% to the total global silk output [3].

Sericulture is an age-old practice in India which has been associated with the life and culture of Indians [4]. India owns second place in the world in silk production, next to China [5], and has produced 35820 MT of raw silk in 2019-2020 [6].

Majority of the silk, in India, is produced by Mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori L. It is a monophagous insect that feeds on mulberry varieties and derives required nutrients for growth and development [7]. Silk is protein filament spun by silkworm for its web, and cocoons, to protect themselves during metamorphosis. The cocoon filament core is formed by fibroin, a hydrophobic glycoprotein and the cocoon filaments are coated by protein sericin [1].

In sericulture, nutrition plays an important role. The nutritional grade of mulberry leaves, on which the silkworm feeds, determines the health and growth of silkworm as well as the economic traits of produced silk. Thus, the amount and superiority of raw silk production and resultant development of sericulture sector depend on the mulberry leaves [8]. *Corresponding Author : Dr. Rachna Kapila, Institute of Home Economics, University of Delhi, Metro Station, Sri Krishna Chaitanya Mahaprabhu Marg, Near Hauz Khas, F-4, Hauz Khas Enclave, New Delhi, Delhi E-mail: rachna.kapila@ihe.du.ac.in

Farmers practicing sericulture prefer chemical based involvements due to economic benefits and immediate shortterm results. But the chemicals used in sericulture, like fertilizers, insecticides, weedicides, fungicides, leave their residues which cause adverse effects to silkworm, the quality of silk, as well as form a potential risk to environment and users [9]. Therefore, providing essential nutrients in required quantity to the mulberry plants is very vital for success of sericulture [10]. The organic production system makes use of available biomass for augmentation of soil efficiency, supplying nutrients to crops and reduction in production cost.

This system is promoted as substitute farming system to boost health of soil and attain sustainability by reducing use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides and increasing use of organic products like vermicompost, oil cakes etc therefore, promotion of quality silk production can be achieved by promoting organic farming in sericulture [11]. On this background, the present article aims to review the possible organic inputs in sericulture, their usage, importance, and their role in the improvement of sericulture.

2. Organic nutrients and their source in sericulture The growth and development of mulberry plant are largely based on organic nutrients as they help in resisting biotic and abiotic stresses like high temperature, drought, pest, and disease attack [11]. The major sources of organic nutrients for sericulture are (Fig 1): Vermicompost: Vermicomposting is the process of biological oxidation of organic wastes relating to the act of microorganisms and earthworms. In this, earthworms function as bioreactors to convert organic material to fine pellets known as vermicast. Vermicompost is an excellent medium for plant nutrients, enzymes, and hormones for plant growth and helps in increasing quality and crop of mulberry [11]. The treatment with vermicompost improved mulberry plant characters related to number and length of leaves and shoots. Also, silkworms fed with vermicompost treated mulberry leaves showed better larval and cocoon characters, less mortality of larvae and increased silk productivity [12].

Mahesh et al. [13] have confirmed that treating mulberry plants with vermicompost resulted in increased larval weight, low incidence of disease and greater rate of rearing.

Similar findings of increased plant growth and economy, as a result of vermicompost application were reported by Devamani [14].

soil and plant productivity [24]. Wani et al. [25] reported that Dalweed proved to be the best manure among various tested manures, for mulberry, from germination to growth.

Moreover, the use of Dalweed can release the pressure on other manures, provide diverse options to stakeholders and is an economical and environmentally friendly means for waste disposal.

Not only mulberry silk but Tasar silk has also been benefitted using vermicompost, as reported by Singhvi [15, 16]. The beneficial result of vermicompost was reported on quality and yield of Terminalia tomentosa, host crop of Tasar silkworm, and further on cocoon crop yield and performance. Moreover, the plants treated with vermicompost had leaves available for long period of time at the season end.

Vermiwash: The liquid extract of vermicompost that is produced in medium of richly populated earthworm is vermiwash. It richly holds vitamins, hormones, antimicrobial peptides and a dense population of decomposing bacteria [17]. Vermiwash has been reported to be very effective supplement for Bombyx mori. The studies conducted to evaluate the efficiency of vermiwash on mulberry plants and thereby the silkworm reports the positive results. Vermiwash when sprayed on mulberry plants showed significant increase in growth of plant, leaf yield, which accounted to increase in larval weight, silk gland, cocoon and pupal weight as well as weight of shell of silkworm [18, 19]. Not only the physical growth like number of buds and leaves and their weight but the biochemical constituents like carbohydrates and protein in leaves have been observed to increase due to the effect of vermiwash [20]. Doss et al. [21] have concluded in their study that vermiwash can be used as feed additive for silkworm in sericulture to obtain high performance in economic traits.

The authors have also reported the increase in larval weight, volume of silk gland, cocoon weight, pupal weight, shell weight and silk productivity.

In a study conducted by Rawgol et al. [22], the vermicompost and vermiwash were reported to significantly increase the growth of mulberry plants as well as the nutritive levels of mulberry leaves.

Poultry manure: Poultry droppings are rich in phosphorous, nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, potassium, cellulose, hemicellulose, lignin and micronutrients like zinc, copper, iron, manganese etc. The manure obtained by decomposition of poultry waste is therefore a very good source of organic nutrients [11]. Mulberry plants cultivated with poultry manure have higher mineral content in their leaves and therefore practicing amendment of soil with poultry manure can be beneficial in silkworm rearing [23].

Dalweed: Dalweed is locally accessible organic manure that is available in large amounts in Kashmir's Dal Lake. This is very rich in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and is a potential source of nutrition to plants. Dalweed is used as manure for germination of seeds and to improve fertility of

Biofertilizers - Biofertilizers are natural substances containing living microorganisms. They are substitutes for chemical fertilizers which promote the growth of plants by increasing the obtainability or supply of nutrients [11].

Biofertilizers are important in improving sericulture. ElKhayat et al. [10] reported that application of biofertilizers increased the weight of fresh cocoon, cocoon shell and silk gland as well as the length, weight and size of filament. The best values of pupation ratio and percentage of cocoon formation were acquired after the application of biofertilizers.

Oil cake - The coarse residual soil attained after removal of oil from oilseeds is called oil cake. Oil cake is rich in minerals & protein which, has been efficient in increasing nutritive value of mulberry leaves and reduce the pest and disease outbreak. Oilseed cake of groundnut, castor, neem and sesame, mixed with turmeric and pugamia extracts was found to be efficient in increasing survivability, growth and yield of mulberry plants. Neem oil cake could also control root rot infections [26]. Ram & Maji [27] reported that mixed oil cake, along with press mud and potassium humate significantly increased the produce and nutritive value of mulberry leaves. Significant improvement was also observed in weight and yield of cocoon as effect of the oil cake mixture. Moreover, because of high yield of leaf, the cost benefit ratio was also high with mixed oil cake.

Farm yard manure- It is an organic manure which is obtained after decomposition of cow or buffalo dung or excreta of livestock with the excess fodder, stored in pits [9]. It is very rich in nutrients.

Press mud- It is the compressed waste product of sugar industry obtained as cane juice filtrate. It is a decent source of fertilizer and is very important in improving alkaline soils [11]. Ram et al. [28] conducted an experiment to study the efficiency of press mud and farm yard manure on quality, growth and yield of mulberry plants and to study its effect on silkworm. The authors observed the gain in leaf yield and increase in its nutritional quality in terms of moisture and

chlorophyll content, total soluble protein, sugar, nitrogen and phosphorous content. Further, there was significant improvement in weight and yield of cocoons and shell percentage. A high cost-benefit ratio was also recorded.

3. Importance of organic farming in sericulture Mulberry, after plantation once, is upheld for long time due to incessant agronomical practices at regular intervals.

Chemical farming in sericulture gives good yield but farmers experience its negative effects in long term on quality and productivity of cocoon. Indiscriminate use of chemical fertilizers results in decrease in nutrients as well as toxicity to silkworms. With the practice of organic farming, foliar diseases of mulberry are controlled along with increasing the photosynthesis efficiency of the plant. The nitrogen and organic carbon content of soil help in increasing the healthy leaf productivity. Application of organic farming systems to mulberry cropping increases the growth of mulberry plants and enhancement in nutritive value of leaves thereby enhancing growth of silkworm, silk yield and economy [11].

Chowdhary et al. [29] conducted the study to know the effect of several organic nutrient management packages on health,

growth, quality, and yield of mulberry plants and reported the treatments to be significant in increasing growth and productivity of plants, physically, biochemically and economically. Thus, knowledge of organic farming system and its adoption enhances quality and quantity of mulberry plants, reduce the production cost, decreases the occurrence of pest and disease, and improves the quality of silk which draws high price from market as well as protects the environment [30].

4. Conclusion Adoption of complete organic production system in sericulture, specifically in mulberry cultivation plays an important role in improvement of sericulture sector. But the main constraints in adopting the system are absence of technical guidance to farmers, absence of credit facilities as well as non- availability of organic nutrient fertilizers when required. These constraints can be overcome by farmers' education, social participation, arranging loans or financial assistance to farmers. Improvement in productivity and cocoon production quality will advance the sericulture industry.

References [1] Pal S., Kundu J., Talukdar S., Thomas T., & Kundu S. C., An emerging functional natural silk biomaterial from the only domesticated non‐mulberry silkworm Samia ricini, Macromolecular bioscience, 13 (8), 1020-1035, (2013).

[2] Bhat T. A., & Choure T., Study of growth and instability in raw silk production and marketing in India. European Journal of Business and Management, 6 (14), 108-111, (2014).

[3] Sarkar K., Majumdar M., & Ghosh A., Critical analysis on role of women in sericulture industry, International journal of Social Science, 6 (3), 211-222, (2017).

[4] Lalzuitluangi & Ramswamy R., Entrepreneurship Development in Saitual Sericulture Cluster in Mizoram, SEDME (Small Enterprises Development, Management & Extension Journal), 46 (3), 141-151, (2019).

[5] Choudhari S. D., Latpate C. B., & Mhetre A. V., Analysis of sericulture production in Parbhani district, Plant protection, 6600, 5-05, (2021).

[6] Central Silk Board, Functioning of Central Silk Board & Performance of Indian Silk Industry, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, 1-23, (2021).

[7] Ayandokun A. E., & Alamu O. T., Cocoon production efficiency of silkworm (Bombyx mori L.) in response to host shift between two selected mulberry varieties, International Journal of Tropical Insect Science, 40 (1), 49-52, (2020).

[8] Ajao A. M., Oladimeji Y. U., Olawuwo A. O., & Jayeola A. V., Sericulture Farmers' perception and Performance of Bombyx Mori AJ X AC Hybrid Cocoon Reared with S30 Mulberry Leaves Under Nigerian Tropical Condition, Fudma Journal of Sciences, 4 (1), 261-271, (2020).

[9] Sakthivel N., Ravikumar J., Chikkanna, Mukund V., Kirsur. Bindroo B. B, & Sivaprasad V, Organic farming in mulberry, Technical bulletin Regional sericultural research station Tamil Nadu, India, (2014).

[10] El-Khayat E. F., Gaaboub I. A., Omer R. E. M., Ghazey U. M., & El-Shewy A. M., Impact of Bio and Inorganic Fertilizer Treatments on Economic Traits of Mulberry Silkworm (Bombyx mori L.), Academic Journal of entomology, 6 (1), 01-06, (2013).

[11] Venu V.S, Jothimani P, Kalpana P.V., & Devaghi P., Effect of Organic Nutrition In Enhancing Mulberry And Silkworm Productivity-Review, International Journal for Science and Advance Research in Technology, 5 (2), (2019).

[12] Ghazy U. M., Fouad T. A., & Ahmed, G. M., Improving productivity of mulberry trees and silkworm, Bombyx mori L., using vermicompost application, International Journal of Industrial Entomology, 40 (2), 41-50, (2020).

[13] Mahesh D. S., Doreswamy C., Chikkalingaiah, Ramakrishna N., Subbarayappa C.T., Venkatesh M., Rearing performances of PM X CSR2 fed with mulberry raised through different organic manures, Advances in Bioresearch, 9 (5), 96-99, (2018).

[14] Devamani M., Impact of INM on Selected Mulberry and Silkworm Traits, International Journal of Science and Research, 8 (3), 1207-1210, (2018).

[15] Singhvi N. R., Effect of vermicompost application on leaf yield in terminalia tomentosa W&A and tasar cocoon production, Plant Archives, 14 (1), 97-99, (2014).

[16] Singhvi N. R., Use of vermicompost in tasar sericulture, Rashtriya Krishi, 8 (2), 54-56, (2013).

[17] Gudeta K., Julka J. M., Kumar A., Bhagat A., & Kumari A., Vermiwash: An agent of disease and pest control in soil, a review, Heliyon, 7 (3), e06434, (2021).

[18] Purusothaman S., Muthuvelu S., Balasubramanian U., & Murugesan P., Biochemical analysis of Mulberry leaves (Morus alba L.) and silkworm Bombyx mori enriched with vermiwash. Journal of Entomology, 9 (5), 289-295, (2012).

[19] Uppar V., & Rayar S. G., Efficacy of foliar sprays on mulberry leaves and cocoon production. BIOINFOLET-A Quarterly Journal of Life Sciences, 11 (1a), 53-57, (2014).

[20] Karthikairaj K., & Isaiarasu L., Effect of vermiwash on the growth of mulberry cuttings. World Journal of Agricultural Sciences, 9 (1), 69-72, (2013).

[21] Doss D. D., Chinnaswamy K. P., Radha D. K., Vijay K., & Rao J. P., Effect of coelomic fluid (vermiwash)-as feed additive on the economic traits of mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori L., Bulletin of Indian Academy of Sericulture, 15 (2), 67-72, (2011).

[22] Rawgol K. Y., Maddi P. P., Sharma V., Kale D. K. Effeciacy of vermiwash-smeared mulberry leaves on cocoon characters of multivoltine hybrid mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori L.: Kolar gold race, International Journal of Scientific & Technology Research, 1 (2), 1-22, (2011).

[23] Alebiosu I. B., Olatunde G. O., & Pitan O. O. R., General Performance and Cocoon Yields of Two Hybrids of the Silkworm, L. (Lepidoptera: Bombicidae), Fed on Mulberry Leaves, Annals of Tropical Research, 35 (1), 1-12, (2013).

[24] Sheikh T., Baba Z., Iqbal S., Hamid B., Wani F., Bhat A., & Suhail S., Unveiling the Efficiency of Psychrophillic Aporrectodea caliginosa in Deciphering the Nutrients from Dalweed and Cow Manure with Bio-Optimization of Coprolites, Sustainability, 13 (10), 5338, (2021).

[25] Wani M. Y., Mir M. R., Baqual M. F., Zia-ul-Haque S., Lone B. A., Maqbool S. A., & Dar S. A., Influence of different manures on the Germination and Seedling growth of Mulberry (Morus sp.), Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6 (4), 04-09, (2017).

[26] Ram R. L., & Maji C., Integrated effect of mixed oil cake and FYM on raising of mulberry saplings and establishment of chawki garden for sustainable sericulture, International Journal of Agricultural Sciences, 16 (1), 1-10, (2020).

[27] Ram R. L., & Maji C. A., Comprehensive Review on Mulberry Sericulture in Kalimpong Hills, International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 7 (8), 4850-4860, (2018).

[28] Ram R. L., Maji C., Trivedi K., & Singh R. P., Integrated Effect of Mixed Cake and Farm Yard Manure on Mulberry Sericulture in Acid Soils of Kalimpong Hills, Current Journal of Applied Science and Technology, 1-11, (2018).

[29] Chowdhury P. K., Setua G. C., Ghosh A., Kar R. & Maity S.K., Sustainable quality leaf production in S-1635 mulberry (Morus alba) under irrigated condition through organic nutrient management, Indian Journal of Agricultural Sciences, 83 (5), 529-34, (2013).

[30] Sujatha B., Reddy P.L., Shanthan Babu M.A., Naik S.S., High knowledge and low adoption levels on organic farming in mulberry cultivation with the farmers of Chittoor District of Andhra Pradesh, Journal of Agricultural Economics and Sustainable Development, Photon, 104, 170-174, (2015).

Sr. No. Type of Membership A. Corporate Member B. Patron Member C. Life Member D. Overseas Member E. Lifetime to Patron Member

Membership Fee*

INR 20,000 INR 4,600 INR 3,200 USD 120 INR 2,000

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/3FY8A

The S3 (Simple, Small, Significant) Steps for Sustainable Domestic Laundry Practices: Need of the Hour Part-1: Sourcing and adaptation of Motifs Seema Sekhri1& Nidhi Gupta2* 1

Department of Fabric and Apparel Science, Lady Irwin College, University of Delhi 2 Department of Design, Netaji Subhas University of Technology, New Delhi

Abstract: With improvement in the standard of living, many tasks that were traditionally performed at the household level have been discontinued and/or have moved to commercial levels. However, the task of domestic laundry continues-though changing with advancements in technology and cleaning reagents. This universal chore leaves a heavy load on the environment.

Efforts at reducing this burden have catalyzed research resulting in ecofriendly detergents as well as smart washer technologies. However, the major responsibility of unburdening the environment rests with consumers. The present paper thus aims to highlight several simple, small and significant steps which are the need of the hour. While some of the tips shared are based on practical sense and the generations old wisdom, many facts discussed are based on scientific studies carried under laboratory-controlled conditions. It is hoped that the tips shared, if followed, will enhance the sustainability quotient (SQ) of consumers and make them more responsible world citizens!

Keywords: Consumers, Domestic, Green, Laundry, Sustainable Citation: Seema Sekhri & Nidhi Gupta, “The S3 (Simple, Small, Significant) Steps for Sustainable Domestic Laundry Practices: Need of the Hour”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/4 (218-221), (Nov-Dec’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/3FY8A

The recent pandemic brought numerous changes in our lives.

A lot of these left with the Covid but some are here to stay.

One of these is the chance to take a closer look at the daily chores performed in every household. Salient among these is the task of laundering. The Oxford dictionary defines laundering as 'the action or process of washing clothes'.

The fact is that washing of the clothes we wear and use is a universal one, differing only in the scale of operations and the extent of mechanization involved. To further elucidate this point, let us enumerate various requirements of this cleaning process [1,2] (Sinner, 1960; Stamminger, 2010). These could be enlisted as follows: I) Water ii) Detergent iii) Energy- manual or/and electrical iv) Temperature v) Time It is important to strike a judicious balance among these factors contributing to satisfactory cleaning. Even if a conservative estimation is done, the expenditures entailed with respect to water and electricity for carrying out the universal task of laundering is an astounding figure. The World Bank (2008) has reported that the average household annually consumes 27 kgs. of detergent, 47.5 kiloliters of water and 40.7 KWh of electricity [3]. This in turn imposes a huge burden on the environment. These figures also help us appreciate why the process of laundry is responsible for 95% impact in the life cycle assessment (LCA) of a textile product.

In the past years and especially now after the Pandemic, a *Corresponding Author : Dr. Nidhi Gupta Department of Design, Netaji Subhas University of Technology, Dwarka Sector – 3, Dwarka, New Delhi – 110 078 E-mail: nidhi.3aug@gmail.com

growing need is felt to be more responsible users of all resources at our disposal. It is also a fact that the unchecked use of water, detergents and electric energy for performing daily household laundry will result in grave problems.

Greenhouse gas emissions, increased solid waste as well as waste water generation and water pollution are some of these. Research based facts have thrown light on startling facts related to laundry detergents. Data shared by the International Association for Soaps, Detergents and Maintenance Products (A.I.S.E.) has revealed that it is the consumers who play a vital role in the environmental load caused by detergents. The reason is that it is the use phase alone that accounts for70% of total energy use, 90% of air emissions, and 60% of solid waste through LCA [4]. Other forms of water pollution including BOD (biochemical oxygen demand), COD (chemical oxygen demand), metal emissions and eutrophication also result from detergents in the drainage water which finally ends up in the water bodies and poses a threat to aquatic life as well [5].

Hence there is an urgent need to question our daily household activities with a view to bring small changes that will have a huge direct impact on our environment and an indirect one on us. This does not, in any case, imply that we compromise on our hygiene or the level of cleaning of our clothes in any manner.

The discussion being presented is based on facts which have been tested scientifically as part of a doctoral research and substantiated further by extensive review of literature.

One can arrive at a host of options when exploring the`question, “How to reduce the burden imposed on the environment by daily laundry carried out in households?”

Chief among these would be: Ÿ Dry cleaning Ÿ Ultrasonic cleaning

Applications of finishes that make the fabric repel dirt and stains. Ÿ Use of synthetic fibres which get cleaned at low temperatures and also dry quickly. Ÿ Garment design with detachable elements like cuff, collars, sleeve hem etc. to reduce the frequency of wash and load capacity [6, 7].

required to heat water and volume of detergent required will also be less in case of H-axis machine as compared to V- axis machine.

Ÿ

Although the above options may hold some merit from a theoretical standpoint, these definitely do not provide any practical solution to the menace and hazards posed by the ubiquitous task of household laundry. On the other hand, a combination of simple, small yet significant steps (The S3 Steps!) can go a long way in bringing respite to the threats looming large.

The first step is to give a thorough look to the laundry load of your household unit. Each unit has a specific load which in turn depends on number of members in a household, their age and activity profile etc. As can be easily understood, infants as well as the elderly with health issues constitute a segment that has a higher need of frequent laundry. The idea of exploring the design features of garments with a view to reducing the daily laundry load can be tapped [6]. For example, if a baby soils clothes while eating, then use of removable bibs while feeding can avoid carrying out cleaning of the full dress.

Ÿ

Choosing that time of the day when you get warm water due to sun's heat. This will mean saving of expenditure on electrical energy to generate high temperature of water.

Increased water temperature will also yield more efficient cleaning. One might argue that laundry during afternoon is not a possibility for working people. But a counter argument is that this can be made a weekend chore.

Ÿ

Opting for low temperatures in washing. Research has shown that it is more eco-friendly to choose low washing temperatures coupled with longer time of washing.

Various research studies [8,9,10] across the globe have concluded that an increased mechanical action for an elongated period of time at low temperatures can provide almost equivalent cleaning efficiency achieved during high-temperature wash, while significantly saving the electricity consumption.

Ÿ

Pre-soaking of soiled garments in water. This step goes a long way in efficient cleaning without wastage of resources. Steeping in water helps to loosen the dirt and dust, making them easy to remove.

Ÿ

Reusing of the wash water for cleaning of homes, cars etc.

At the household level itself, simple filtration devices can be installed to yield water which is fit for non-potable uses. This would in turn lead to a saving of drinking water which is otherwise utilised for carrying out cleaning of floors, toilets and cars. Water from the last rinse cycle is often devoid of detergent traces and can even be reused for gardening purposes. Many researchers across the globe have proposed this step [11, 12, 13, 14].

Ÿ

Avoiding frequent machine washing of less loads.

Instead, the full load capacity should be adhered to. Each washing machine is designed to cater to a particular wash load. Consumers must adhere to these instructions. The following data gathered in laboratory tests conducted during research brought the following fact came to light: When the machine was only half filled (i.e., used for washing 1.5 kg load in a machine designed for 3 kg wash load), it still used 78% of the energy, 80% of the water, and 67% of the detergent as compared with a fully loaded machine. Similar findings have also been previously reported in a study done in Norway [15].

Another example is the use of detachable collars and cuffs (sections of a shirt that tend to get more soiled). Taking the example of the Indian Sari, the introduction of an easy to remove and re-attach fall (the part of a Sari which picks a lot of dirt) could mean a major saving of water, detergent and other resources.

Some “out of the box” ideas can also be employed to reduce the average daily laundry load. Absorbent disposable pads can be used in sections of the garment that face heavy perspiration e.g., underarms.

The next step is “localized” cleaning or spot cleaning. As the term implies, it refers to cleaning of only those parts of the garment that are dirty, instead of washing the entire garment and incurring huge consumption of water, detergent and electricity.

Some other practical tips include: Becoming aware of the wash technologies that consumers have an access to. From the results of a doctoral research study carried out at Lady Irwin College, it can be concluded that different washer technologies (mainly vertical/V axis and horizontal/H axis) have a drastic difference in terms of water, energy and detergent consumption.

Ÿ

Ÿ

The results of the study highlighted the fact that almost similar kind of cleaning efficiency can be achieved from the use of either of the technology, however at the same time a horizontal axis washing machine consumes approximately 1/3rd volume of water as compared to vertical axis machine; hence the consumption of energy

After going through the above facts, the idiom, “Penny wise Pound foolish” will make a new point to you! Ÿ Using correct detergent dosage. The phrase, “the more the merrier” might not always hold true. In the context of laundry, it surely does not. Over dosing can have many harmful effects? Overdosing washing products strongly increases the burden of wastewater by increasing BOD, COD, suspended and sedimented substances, solid waste from packages and over-consumption of natural resources [16, 17]. On the other hand, it is important not to decrease the washing agents to such measures that the

laundering procedures do not have a sufficient cleaning and disinfection effect [8]. Gulumser in his study, has very correctly summed up that it is the simple decision regarding amount of detergent dose employed in domestic laundry that plays a vital role not only in prolonging the life of the washing machines as well as of the laundered clothes, cutting the cost of home laundry, but also protecting the environment [18]. At the same time, efficient cleaning is directly related to use of a reagent in an optimum amount [19]. Ÿ

Wherever possible, relying on sun's rays and conventional ironing treatments to achieve complete drying of laundered articles. In today's fast paced life, consumers have changed their wardrobe preferences toward synthetics and blends. The reasons include variety

and convenience of maintenance offered by these. Most of these garments do not even require conventional ironing, a step that can aid in fighting germs has also become less common when handling garments with crease resistant finishes [20]. Therefore, wherever possible, use of sun for drying of washed garments should be done. It is an eco-friendly practice as compared to the electricity run dryers. Sun rays also act as a germicide. Ÿ

It is hoped that adherence to the above tips will contribute significantly to meeting the challenge posed to our environment. In the present times, it is the responsibility of each one of us as a global citizen to increase our SQ (Sustainability Quotient) and carry out our daily tasks with mindfulness and responsibility.

References [1] H. Sinner, “Über das Waschen mit Haushaltwaschmachinen”. Haus&Heim Verlag (1960). * [2] R. Stamminger, “Reinigen”. In Lebensmittelverarbeitung im Haushalt, aid-Verlag (ed. by U. Gomm): 2010: pp. 307–334. * [3] Anonymous, “Residential Consumption of Electricity in India: Documentation of Data and Methodology”, The World Bank Report (2008).

[4] Anonymous, “Final Report On The Implementation of The A.I.S.E. Code of Good Environmental Practice for Household Laundry Detergents in Europe”, 2003. Retrieved on May 8, 2021 from http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/sectors/chemicals/ files/reports/final_aise_en.pdf.

[5] Anonymous, “The Life-Cycle Assessment of European Clothes Laundering”, Report 2: LCA of compact fabric washing powder & main wash process. A.I.S.E. LCA taskforce (2001).

[6] K. Laitala, “Clothing Consumption: An Interdisciplinary Approach to Design for Environmental Improvement”, Norwegian University of Science and Technology: Trondheim, Norway, 2014.

[7] S. Sethi, “Ultrasonic Cleaning of Highly Soiled Apparel”, Unpublished PhD work submitted to University of Delhi, Delhi, 2012.

[8] N. Gupta, “Developing Green Laundry Practices in India”, Unpublished PhD work submitted to University of Delhi, Delhi, 2018.

[9] J.Kim, Y.Park, C.Yun, & H. Park, “Comparison of Environmental and Economic Impacts Caused by the Washing Machine Operation of Various Regions”, Energy Efficiency, 8/5 (905-918), 2015. doi: 10.1007/s12053-015-9333-7 [10] F. Janczak, R. Stamminger, D. Nickel, & D. Speckmann, “Energy Savings by Low Temperature Washing”, SÖFW Journal, 136, (75–80), 2010.

[11] D. Zhang, R.M. Gersberg, C. Wilhelm, & M. Voigt, “Decentralized Water Management: Rainwater Harvesting and Greywater Reuse in An Urban Area of Beijing, China”, Urban Water Journal, 6/5, (375-385), 2009.

[12] R. K. Misra, J.H. Patel, & V.R. Baxi, “Reuse Potential of Laundry Greywater for Irrigation Based on Growth, Water and Nutrient Use of Tomato”, Journal of Hydrology, 386(1-4), (95-102), 2010.

[13] S. M. Zadeh, D.V. L. Hunt, D.R. Lombardi, & C.D. F. Rogers, “Shared Urban Greywater Recycling Systems: Water Resource Savings and Economic Investment”, Sustainability, 5/7, (2887-2912), 2013.

[14] X.Y.Teh, P.E. Poh, D. Gouwanda, & M.N. Chong, “Decentralized Light Greywater Treatment using Aerobic Digestion and Hydrogen Peroxide Disinfection for Non-Potable Reuse”, Journal of Cleaner Production, 99, (305-311), 2015.

[15] K. Laitala, C. Boks, & I.G. Klepp, “Potential for Environmental Improvements in Laundering”, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 35/2, (254-264), 2011.

[16] P. Järvi, & A. Paloviita, “Product-Related Information for Sustainable Use of Laundry Detergents in Finnish Households”, Journal of Cleaner Production, 15/7, (681-689), 2007.

[17] S. Šostar-Turk, I. Petrinić, & M. Simonič, “Laundry Wastewater Treatment Using Coagulation and Membrane Filtration”, Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 44/2, (185-196), 2005.

[18] T. GÜLÜMSER, “Soil Releasing Effect of Concentrated Detergents Compared with The Ordinary Ones”, Journal of Textile & Apparel/Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 20/4, 2010.

[19] S. Fijan, R. Fijan, & S. Šostar-Turk, “Implementing Sustainable Laundering Procedures for Textiles in A Commercial Laundry and Thus Decreasing Wastewater Burden”, Journal of Cleaner Production, 16/12, (1258-1263), 2008.

[20] L.J.Kagan, A.E. Aiello, & E. Larson, “The Role of The Home Environment in The Transmission of Infectious Diseases”, Journal of Community Health, 27, (247-267), 2002.

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/D736E

Effect of Roving Heating on Ring Yarn Quality Venkatesh Bairabathina, Siva Jagadish Kumar M*, Govardhana Rao Chilukoti, & Md. Vaseem Chavhan Vignan's Foundation for Science, Technology & Research, Vadlamudi, Guntur, Andhra Pradesh, India Abstract: The roller drafting system is one of the main tasks of the ring spinning for producing a yarn, where the roving is attenuated as per required linear density of yarn. While drafting the control over fibres is required to have better yarn evenness and imperfections. In present study the drafting system environment is modified by introducing the heating assembly to control the fibre friction by evaporating the moisture using hot air. The temperature is changed at roving while manufacturing cotton and viscose yarns of different counts and its effects on to the yarn quality was observed. It has been found that there is decrease of imperfections in the yarn, without losing the strength of yarn with the introduction of the heated roving.

Keywords: Break draft, Drafting irregularities, Roving heating, Ring yarn Citation: Venkatesh Bairabathina, Siva Jagadish Kumar M, Govardhana Rao Chilukoti, & Md. Vaseem Chavhan, “Effect of Roving Heating on Ring Yarn Quality”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/4 (221-227), (Nov-Dec’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/D736E

1. Introduction : The new spinning technologies have largely overcome the constraints of yarn spinning manufacturing and also paved the way for greater automation. The ring mechanism however still dominates the other yarn manufacturing techniques and is inclined to maintain as the most flexible yarn spinning machine. Drafting is mechanism where linear density of the strand is reduces with simultaneously introduction of the irregularities. In drafting mechanism the drafting force is the one important factor that decides the formation of irregularities at the delivery strand. The drafting force can be determined by inter fibre friction, fibre crimps, fibre parallelization and direction of hooks. In the ring frame drafting system, drafting wave can be formed if the frictional resistance between the fast moving front fibre and the slow moving back fibre is higher [1].

intricate place and it will be objected by the operators. In the present research, effect of heating of roving at the break draft zone of the ring frame drafting system yarn quality is studied by using an In-house designed heating assembly.

2. Materials and Methodology: 2.1 Materials Cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres were selected for this study to produce yarns of different counts. Roving was used directly for the spinning trials which are made from selected fibres and suitable fibre parameters as per counts to be spun.

The details of selected fiber parameters for the study are given in Table 1.

Table 1: Details of fibre particulars of cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres

The main causes of formation of these irregularities are interring fibre cohesion and improper drafting that leads to fiber breakage and intern weakens the yarn [2]. There are different approaches to reduce the fibre to fibre friction in drafting fibres. These include applying spin finish, effective carding action and relative humidity [3]. Moisture regain is one of the highly influence factor of inter fibre cohesion.

Higher moisture content in fibers typically exerts higher fiber to fiber friction. In available studies different modifications have been made to reduce drafting irregularities at the ring frame drafting zone that includes compact spinning, modification of drafting rollers diameter, surface finishes etc.

But, still there is scope for improvement in the drafting system [1, 3, 9].

In some spinning mills, the combing feed laps are conditioned with high power lamps to give heating just before the process in order to reduce the moisture content, the same is implemented by another researcher and found better results [1]. But the same cannot be implemented in the spinning machines as the space for gaiting the roving is an *Corresponding Author : V. Siva Krishna Assistant Manager, National Textile Corporation, Kerala.

Email: sivajagadish@gmail.com

Cotton Count / Property

20S CHY

Regenerated Cellulose Fibres

40S 60S 30S 40S 60S CCW CCW VSF VSF MSF

Fibre Thai Type / S6+AC Bunny Bunny KPM KPM Modal Quality Fibre Length 30 31.3 31.3 44 44 38 (mm) Fibre Fineness 1.58 1.52 1.52 1.2 1.2 0.9 (Denier) Fibre Strength 2.7 2.8 2.8 2.7 2.7 4.5 (g/denier) Where: CHY-combed hosiery yarn, CCW-Cotton combed warp, VSF-Viscose staple fiber, MSF-Modal staple fiber Ÿ The details of ring spinning machine parameters and process parameters used for manufacturing of the different yarn counts from roving are given in Table 2. Ÿ

Table 2 Details of Machine and Process parameters as per count of yarn

Material Type Count Machine Model

20S CHY LR9AX

Cotton 40S CCW LR9AX

60S CCW LR9AX

Type of Yarn

Compact

Compact

Compact

Drafting system Roving hank(Ne) Break draft TM (Twist multiplier) Highest Spindle Speed (rpm)

3 over 3 1 1.12 3.5

3 over 3 1.1 1.14 3.79

3 over 3 1.3 1.14 4.3

20000

20000

20000

2.2 Methods Yarn samples were produced by using existing 3 over 3 drafting system type and modified drafting system, where the hot air is applied at the back zone of drafting system.

Optimized spacer thickness was chosen for sample preparation in both the conditions [10]. Figure 1 shows line diagram of existing and experimental set up of modified drafting system respectively. An in house designed heating assembly based on convection principle was developed as shown on Figure 1.

Regenerated Cellulose Fibres 30S VSF 40S VSF 60S MSF LR6AX LR6AX LR6AX Ring Ring Ring yarn yarn yarn 3 over 3 3 over 3 3 over 3 1 1 1.8 1.117 1.117 1.156 3.24 3.42 1.8 16000

16000

16500

Table 3: Details of cotton yarn experimental plan

Sample No.

Yarn Count (Ne)

Spacer thickness (mm)

Temperature (oC)

A1

20

4

35

A2

20

3.5

35

A3

20

3.5

41

A4

20

3.5

47

A5

40

2.75

35

A6

40

2.5

41

A7

40

2.5

47

A8

40

2.25

41

A9

60

2.5

35

A10

60

2.5

41

A11

60

2.25

41

A12

60

2.25

47

Table 4: Details of viscose yarn experimental plan Figure 1: Image of experimental set up for sample production with heater assembly A-Heater, B - Carton box with outlets, C - Hollow spring hose Hot air from the heating source was stored in a chamber that has ten outlets. The hose was used to fix these outlets and was directly placed in between back and middle roller of drafting system. The arrangement ensures the contact of hot air with roving specimen at low velocity thereby not disturbing the fibres in the assembly. The temperature of hot air is maintained as per the experimental plan given in Table 3 and 4 after due calibration.

Three different counts were selected in each type of fibre i.e.

20s, 40s, and 60s in case of cotton, and 30s, 40s and 60s in case of viscose rayon. the temperature in the department during the study in cotton plant was35°C , the experimental temperature maintained are 41°C, 47°C in cotton yarn.

Similarly in viscose, the department temperature was 37°C and experimental temperature maintained was 43°C. The spacers were selected as per the roving thickness and yarn samples were produced [4, 10].

Sample No

Yarn count (Ne)

Spacer Thickness

Temperature (oC)

B1

30

3

37

B2

30

3

43

B3

30

2.75

43

B4

40

2.75

37

B5

40

2.75

43

B6

40

2.5

43

B7

60

2.5

37

B8

60

2.5

43

B9

60

2.25

43

The yarn samples were produced using 10 spinning positions. All the 10 cops were tested and average results are considered for comparison and understand the effect of heating.

2.3 Test Methods To study the effect of heating of roving at ring frame and spacer thickness on yarn quality, the following tests were conducted.

2.3.1 Yarn Unevenness, Imperfections and Hairiness Test The regenerated cellulosic yarn samples were tested using an USTER TESTER-5 and cotton yarn samples were tested using PREMIER iQ Quali center (Version M 3.0.7 SP1) for unevenness, imperfections, hairiness and standard deviation of hairiness. The imperfections were measured at the following sensitivity levels: Thin -30%, -40%, -50%, thick +35%, +50% and neps +140%, +200%, +280%. The test parameters like speed was maintained at 400mpm, time 2.5 minutes and number of tests carried out per sample was 10.

2.3.2 Single Yarn Strength Test & CSP The single yarn tensile properties were studied to know the extent of variation in the tensile properties of yarn produced

under the proposed system by PREMIER Tensomax 7000 for cotton yarn samples and INSTRON single yarn strength tester for regenerated cellulosic yarn samples. The testing conditions maintained are of specimen length was 500 mm, traverse speed - 5000 mm / min and finally number of tests conducted per sample was 100. The CSP properties were studied using STATEX Count and Lea strength tester which works under the testing range up to 500 Ibs. (upto to 250Kgs.), traverse speed - Constant 300 mm / min.

3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Yarn Unevenness, Imperfections and Hairiness Yarn properties of all samples were analysed and tabulated.

Table 5 and 6 shows the result of sample produced via cotton and viscose respectively and its yarn evenness, yarn imperfections at different sensitivity levels and hairiness for both existing drafting system and experimentally set up drafting system.

Table 5: Effect of heating of roving and spacer thickness on evenness, imperfections and hairiness of cotton yarn samples

Sample code/ Particulars

A1

A2

A3

A4

A5

A6

A7

A8

A9

A10

A11

A12

U%

8.28

8.2

8.1

8.2

10.5

10.3

10.6

10.5

11.1

10.6

10.9

11

CV%

10.4

10

10

10

13.2

13

13.3

13.2

13.9

13.5

13.9

13.9

(-50%)

0

0

0

0

4

1

4

3

13

6

12

12

(+50%)

7

5

6

5

32

34

35

23

58

48

49

53

(+200%)

5

7

4

5

63

53

52

52

122

119

101

121

Total Imperfections

12

12

10

10

99

88

91

78

193

173

162

186

(-30%)

205

188

174

189

1499

1364

1618

1466

2254

1772

2293

2336

(-40%)

3

3

3

2

119

102

127

112

267

195

288

298

(+35%)

21

23

22

33

344

319

363

332

430

379

404

419

(+140%)

34

36

25

29

271

307

266

298

573

534

541

742

Imperfections at extra sensitivity level (30%, -40%, +35% & +140%)

263

250

224

253

2233

2092

2374

2208

3524

2880

3526

3795

(+280%)

2

1.5

1.5

1

15

13

11

9

39

32

30

28

(+400)

0

0

0

0

3

2

1

1

13

4

7

7

Hairiness

5.92

5.7

5.6

5.6

2.93

3.73

3.3

3.04

2.51

2.22

2.55

2.69

SH

1.21

1.2

1.1

1.2

0.72

0.88

0.82

0.79

0.64

0.7

0.66

0.75

The graph were plotted to see the effect of change in hot air temperature and the spacer thickness on to the total imperfections (at +50%, -50% and +200%), hairiness and irregularities (U% and CV%).

It is noted that there is a decrease of around 10-20 per cent in imperfections in all situations. Reduction in imperfections occurs not only through the passing of hot air on the roving, but also through a subsequent reduction in spacer thickness.

Further effect of change in imperfections is more affected at finer yarn compared to the coarser yarn.

For a coarser yarn of 20s Ne from sample A1 to A2, the effect of change of spacer thickness is not seen as both were produced at different thickness of spacer by keeping temperature constant at 35 oC. The change of temperature on the imperfection can be seen from A2 to A3 from 35oC to 41oC at same spacer thickness while further increase in temperature to 47 oC results in no change. For 40s count with increase in temperature and decrease in spacer thickness results in decrease in imperfections for samples A5 and A6, while further increase in temperature to 47 oC similar to 20S count there is no improvement have been seen. The effect of decrease is spacer thickness can be seen here for sample A8 as compare to A6 where the imperfections are decrease at same temperature of 41 oC. Sample A8 (40Ne CCW) was produced with 2.25 spacer size.

It was observed that there is about 20% reduction of imperfections with better spinning performance as compared with existing sample A5. In normal production conditions 2.25 spacer for 40 Ne is not prefer even though it gives better controlling force over floating fibres, because formation of roller slippage and un drafting.

It can be seen from figure 2 that there is a reduction of the imperfections from A9 (at 41 oC) to A11 (at 47oC)., where the clear effect of change in temperature can be seen from samples A9 to A10 at constant space thickness and effect of spacer thickness change from A10 to A11. In table 5 & 6 we can also see a level of imperfections at extra sensitivity level (-30%, -40%, +35% & +140%) there is slight reduction of said imperfections but the change is not significance difference of this roving heating.

Figure 2: Total imperfections, U%, CV% and Hairiness of 20s, 40s and 60s cotton yarn samples produced by roving heated at different temperatures Table 6: Effect of heating of roving and spacer thickness on evenness, imperfections and hairiness of Viscose yarn samples

Sample code/ Particulars

B1

B2

B3

B4

B5

B6

B7

B8

B9

U%

9.91

9.82

9.57

11.2

11.2

11

10.2

10.4

10.2

CV%

12.56

12.6

12.3

14.3

14.2

14

13.1

13.2

12.9

(-50%)

0.5

0

0

3.5

6.7

2

2.5

3

2

(+50%)

11

19

13

50.5

37.8

39

14.5

19

10.5

(+200%)

89

87

75

160

174

157

158

137

117

Total Imperfections

100.5

106

88

214

219

197

175

159

129

(-30%)

524

540

502

1307

1260

1258

1100

1066

980

(-40%)

19.5

24.5

14

141

121

105

89.5

84.5

70

(+35%)

100

83.5

81.5

255

243

236

127

148

107

(+140%)

293

315

266

599

547

564

618

525

475

Sample code/ Particulars Imperfections at extra sensitivity level (-30%, -40%, +35% & +140%) (+280%)

B1

B2

B3

B4

B5

B6

B7

B8

B9

936

961

863

2302

2170

2162

1934

1823

1631

29

26.5

25.5

57

61.1

42.5

37.5

45

36

(+400%)

5

10

9

16.5

57

16

8

10.5

9

Hairiness

6.16

5.33

5.18

4.74

4.46

4.85

4.14

4.07

4.02

SH

1.32

1.17

1.14

1.17

1.1

1.16

1.05

0.97

0.94

observed that there is 10-15% reduction in imperfections with better spinning performance. The reason for selection of lesser spacer thickness was due to reduction of fibre to fibre friction through application of hot air at back zone, which can be advantageously increase the friction between apron to fibres in the front zone of drafting system.

Effect of heating on hairiness: From Table 5 and 6 it can be observed that there are less significant changes in hairiness in cotton and viscose yarns.

The heating shows slight improvement in hairiness viscose yarn due to heating except sample B6. This was due to reduction of fibre to fibre friction at break draft zone may reduce fibre breakages, which can be reduce number of short fibres in the cross section of fibre strand and hence hairiness for heating samples. It was evident that there is an improvement in yarn evenness and co-efficient of variation for all the samples which are produced by applying hot air at the back zone except the sample B8. The reason was that increasing the controlling force over the floating fibres by reducing spacer thickness.

Figure 3: Total imperfections, U%, CV% and Hairiness of 30s, 40s and 60s viscose yarn samples produced at roving heating at different temperatures Sample B1 and B2 for 30S Ne viscose and sample B4 and B5 for 40S Ne viscose were produced with same spacer thickness with and without passing hot air respectively. By reducing the spacer thickness for both the counts it was

Figure 4: Graphical representation of Hairiness for regenerated yarn samples 3.2 Single Yarn Strength Test & CSP The tensile properties of yarn samples produced with existing drafting system and the application of hot air in the back bone of the drafting system were shown in Table 7 and 8. Based on the ANOVA test performed, it is observed that all the samples have no significant difference in yarn strength.

Table 7: Effect of heating of roving and spacer thickness on tensile properties of cotton yarn

Sample No

RKM

A1

16.53

Breaking Elongation (%) 4.38

A2

16.68

A3

Count (Ne)

Count CV%

Strength (lbs)

Strength CV%

CSP

19.93

1.57

134.77

4.2

2682

4.25

19.77

1

134

4.25

2648

16.9

4.4

19.77

1.03

136

4.1

2692

A4

16.6

4.6

19.75

1.15

134

4.05

2643

A5

19.16

3.19

40.44

1.24

81.66

7.8

3302

A6

19.29

4.13

40.9

1.69

79.66

4.74

3257

A7

20.42

5.22

40.24

1.22

79.33

7.87

3194

A8

19.52

4.16

40.89

1.78

79.53

4.11

3251

A9

20.17

4.1

60.37

1.05

54.22

3.4

3272

A10

19.99

4.16

61.37

1.65

51.23

3.67

3144

A11

20.68

5.43

61.14

1.01

53.67

5.49

3244

A12

19.61

4.36

61.31

1.12

51.2

4.51

3138

Table 8: Effect of heating of roving and spacer thickness on tensile properties of regenerated cellulose yarn

Sample No

RKM

Elongation (%)

Count

Count CV%

Strength (lbs)

Strength CV%

CSP

B1

13.19

3.55

29.81

1.2

80.18

5.95

2390

B2

14.2

4.11

29.65

1.29

81.13

6.93

2406

B3

13.7

3.6

29.77

1.76

85.1

5.45

2535

B4

14.34

3.75

40.2

2.09

60.71

6.66

2441

B5

14.42

4

40.27

2.26

57.95

8.22

2335

B6

14.8

3.8

40.46

2.84

59.76

8.24

2416

B7

20.4

8.3

60.24

1.34

57.36

5.89

3456

B8

20.6

8.2

60.42

1.54

58.14

5.03

3513

B9

20.8

8.4

59.96

1.15

60.42

4.56

3623

While no substantial difference in yarn strength was observed, the samples provided with roving heating indicate increased yarn strength. The explanation may be that roving heating at the break draft zone reduces the force of drafting by reducing fiber to fiber friction. It in effect reduces roving fibre breakage. In the case of CSP, the same pattern also occurs with heating for cotton and viscose samples.

4. Conclusion The result shows that there was about 10-20% of imperfections were reduced by heating of roving at break draft zone. Heating of roving reduces the moisture content of fibres in roving that in turn reduces the inter fibre friction.

This can be advantageously utilized by reducing spacer

thickness in the main draft zone; by this there is a better control of floating fibres which thereby, reduces the drafting irregularities. The samples produced with heating and without heating using same spacer size, it was observed that imperfections were increased. This shows heating of roving has an affect over the yarn quality. The 40 Ne cotton combed warp yarn samples were produced with 2.25 mm spacer size with heating, which shows 20% of improvement in imperfections with better spinning performance. The tensile properties show there is no significant difference between the samples. The regenerated cellulose yarn sample shows the improvement in yarn evenness, co-efficient of variation and hairiness characteristics with heating of roving.

References : [1] Subramanian S, Mohamed AP. Studies on combined effect of heating of roving and space between the aprons of ring frame drafting system on yarn quality. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2005;30:94–8.

[2] Chattopadhyay R, Raina M. Fibre breakage during drafting on ring frame. J Text Inst. 2013;

[3] Das A, Ishtiaque SM, Kumar R. Study on drafting force of roving: Part II - Effect of material variables. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2004;29(2).

[4] Subramanian S, Mohamed AP. Analysis of controlling force at the double apron drafting system of ring frame. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2006;31:529–36.

[5] Das A, Ishtiaque SM, Kumar R. Study on drafting force of roving: Part I - Effect of process variables. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2004;29(2).

[6] Chen G, Wang Y. Effect of High-frequency Vibration on the Drawing Behavior of Staple Fiber Strands. Text Res J. 2010;80(17).

[7] Das A, Ishtiaque SM, Kumar R. Study on drafting force of roving: Part III - Effect of process parameters and roving irregularity on drafting force variability. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2004;29(3).

[8] Ishtiaque SM, Salhotra KR, Das A, Sukhadeva NS. Study on fibre openness - Its impact on roving drafting force and yarn quality. Indian J Fibre Text Res. 2005;30(1).

[9] Ben Hassen M, Sakli F, Sinoimeri A, Renner M. Experimental Study of a High Drafting System in Cotton Spinning. Text Res J. 2003; [10]Bagwan A, Singone BD, Patil V. Appropriate Selection of Spacers at Ring Frame: An Effective Measure to Improve Yarn Quality and Productivity. Int J Text Eng Process. 2015;

https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/NQ7VC

Impact of Dyes and Finishes on Deterioration of Aged Cotton 1

2

3

Kanika Sachdeva *, Mona Suri & Simmi Bhagat 1

2

Founder-www.omemy.com, Former CEO www.meraattire.com,U.K. PFHEA, Higher Education Academy, UK, Royal University for Women, Bahrain, Former Reader, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi, India 3 Department of Fabric and Apparel Science, Lady Irwin College, University of Delhi, India

Abstract: Background: Every heirloom textile is a unique puzzle that needs to be carefully unfolded taking into consideration the factors of age, fibre, constructional parameters etc. Dyes and finishes are one such important constructional parameter that impact not just the aesthetics of the piece of textile but also impact the longevity of the textile. While there is some research available on the impact of metal ions in black dyes and starches in ancient cotton fabrics, museum professionals, heritage conservators and textile engineers would hugely benefit with a systematically generated laboratory data about the specific impact of dye and finish molecules on performance parameters of aged textiles like tensile strength, abrasion resistance, flexibility and colour change. While this data can help professionals take informed decisions about care, storage and exhibition of heritage textiles, it can also form basis of further research in development of processes and instrumentation for advancement in the discipline of textile conservation.

Methods: This study has been conducted on simulated fabric samples in medium thread count cotton fabric, treated with 3 vegetable dyes and one stiffening finish. Standardised test procedures have been used to tabulate scientific data about the deterioration pattern on fabric samples pre and post accelerated ageing.

Results and Conclusion: The data generated by these experiments provides clear trends on specific impact of different auxiliary molecules present on fabrics. Palash dyed samples exhibit minimum impact on strength and performance of fabric - pre and post ageing, while samples dyed in Manjishtha, Indigo and treated with Starch exhibit higher levels of deterioration. Samples dyed with Manjishtha and finished with starch exhibit reduced capacity to handle stress-strain and abrasions. While Indigo dyed samples show sensitivity to abrasion and color change, not impacting tensile strength significantly. Thus, it can be safely concluded that dye and starch molecules have profound impact on the ageing chemistry of textiles. The data and inferences generated in these experiments can find application in development of new-age instrumentation for care and upkeep of heritage textiles.

Keywords: Heritage Fabrics, Museum Textiles, Textile Conservation, Textile Deterioration Citation: Kanika Sachdeva, Mona Suri & Simmi Bhagat, “Impact of Dyes and Finishes on Deterioration of Aged Cotton Textiles”, Journal of the Textile Association, 82/4 (228-234), (Nov-Dec’2021), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/NQ7VC

1. Introduction : The process of increasing the functional and aesthetic value of fabrics with dyes and finishes is as old as the process of manufacturing fabrics. Be it for apparel, furnishings or other uses, fabrics have been rarely used in the griege form. While there is enough literature available on the types of dyes and finishes used in historic textiles, not much data is available on the impact of these dyes and finishes on the deterioration pattern of fabrics once they are old. Application of dyes and finishes on the fabrics involves varies processes that might include exposure to wet conditions and high temperatures.

Also, it adds more inorganic and organic matter to the fabric that then becomes part of the life-cycle of the fabric. These added elements might also have a profound impact on the expected life-span of the fabric. There is some research available on the impact of some of these auxiliary molecules on the process of fabric deterioration. While some of these molecules might have a role in accelerating the process of deterioration, some other might actually be working towards stabilising the fabrics for longer duration. As per Koussoulou[1], “natural dyes are organic polymers and their photo degradation reactions generally follow the same steps as fibres”. The stability of colour can be dependent on dye structure, the presence of a mordanting salt, dyeing process, fibre type, quality and intensity of incident light, environmental exposure, relative humidity, and the ambient temperature [2]. In an analysis of black-dyed cellulosic fibres *Corresponding Author : Dr. Kanika Sachdeva D-103, Om Satyam,Plot-13, Sector-4, Dwarka, New Delhi – 75 E-mail: dr.kanikabhatiasachdeva@gmail.com

[3] results show that the degradation of black-dyed fibre is related to the presence of iron in iron/polyphenol dyes and that the rate of deterioration is probably not enhanced by the dye until it has been degraded by acids. Dark, low temperature, low RH storage would be best for chemical stability of this black-dyed fibre and that de-acidification and iron complexing treatments should ensure stability. Rowe [4] suggested that tin mordants on natural dyes have stabilizing effect against reduction where iron stabilizes against fading by oxidation.

A detailed laboratory study on the impact of dyes and finishes on deterioration pattern of fabric would provide useful data that can form a backbone of scientifically based accurate procedures for conservation laboratories.

2 Materials and Methods Experiment: As depicted in Fig1, the experiment was conducted in 5 steps. In the first step the fabric was customized for the purpose of experimentation. In the next step this fabric was divided into 5 groups, where one group was used as control, 3 groups of fabric were dyed in different natural dyes and on the 5th group starch finish was applied.

These fabrics were then tested to collect data points for the specified performance parameters with standard testing procedures. The samples from all 5 groups were then aged in an accelerated environment to bring them to a state of lifespan equivalent to 20 years [5]. These aged samples were then retested for the same performance parameters and their values tabulated to make data-based inferences on the impact of dye and finish molecules on the longevity of fabric.

Figure 1 : Step-by-step Experiment process to determine the Impact of Dyes and Finishes on Longevity of Aged Fabric I. Sampling: For sampling medium count, plain weave fabric was selected as reference fabric, taking into consideration that plain weave is the most basic of all weaves and thus in medium thread count it can become a good standard for testing other variations. Plain weave, with thread count of 80X70 was customized for the purpose at Weavers Service Centre, Bangalore. It was used to prepare dyed and starched samples for testing.

This fabric was then divided into 5 groups. The first set of fabric was kept as the control group. Fabric from 3 groups was then dyed in Indigo, Majishtha and Palash respectively by Technical and Design Development Centre, Ministry of Textiles, Bangalore. On 4th set of samples rice-starch finish was applied as per the prescribed procedure.

II. Historically, most basic finishes applied on fabrics were starch and dyes. Starch or stiffening finishes have been used on fabrics for imparting them body, extra strength and aesthetics [6]. Earliest and simplest known starches were the ones produced by vegetable sources available in the kitchen [7]. These could be the ones produced by rice, cereals or even colouring vegetables like beetroot at times. Therefore, for this investigation, the researcher utilized rice starch for stiffening the fabric, as done in home laundry. For the purpose of dyeing only vegetable dyes were used as it was realized that traditionally these have been used for dyeing the fabric. Since vegetable dyes can be broadly classified into red, blue and yellow family; one dye from each of this category was selected for the same. Natural Indigo was utilized as the principal blue dye as Indigo (Indigofera Tinctoria) indisputably stands as the most widespread blue natural colouring pigment, both culturally and historically. Manjishtha or Indian Madder (Rubia Cordifolia) was used to develop red-orange colour, as it is one of the earliest known vegetable dyes and chemically it belongs to the very important Anthraquinone category of dyes. Palash (Butea Monosperma) was utilized to achieve yellow colour because of its cultural –historical significance and ease of availability. Care was taken to use absolutely no chemical auxiliary for the purpose of dyeing these fabrics. Palash and Manjishtha dye was available in powdered form

whereas indigo dyeing was done in a traditional vat maintained by a craftsperson.

Following vegetable dye concentrations were used for preparation of samples: a. Palash – 25% OWF (on weight of fabric) Mordant alum – 10% on the weight of the dye material b. Manjishtha – 25% OWF (on weight of fabric) Mordant alum – 10% on the weight of the dye material c. Indigo – 2 dips. Liquor in fermentation method (natural) III Testing for Measuring Performance Indicators: The samples were tested with standard test procedures laid out

by AATCC and ASTM as applicable for GSM, Tensile Strength, Flexural Rigidity, Abrasion resistance, Colour Measurement, Wash fastness and Light Fastness. The testing standards used for various performance parameters are as follows: Table 1 : List of parameters tested to assess the sample fabrics

Performance Parameter GSM Tensile Strength Flexural Rigidity Abrasion Resistance Colour Measurement

Standardised Test Grab Test- ASTM D 5034-09 [8] ASTM D-1388-08 (Cantilever Test) [9] ASTM D4966-98(2004) [10] ASTM E-313-00 [11]

Light Fastness AATCC Test Method 16 -1998, 2000 [12] Wash Fastness

AATCC Test Method 61 -2007, 2008 [13]

Repeat samples were tested for each parameter as per the specifications of the particular testing standard. Further, Standard Deviation (SD) and Coefficient of Variation (CV %) values were calculated for readings obtained so that accuracy of the experiments could be established.

Average value of the readings has obtained by repeat testing were used for making inferences and plotting of graphs.

IV.Accelerated Ageing Mechanism: Heat ageing method proposed by AATCC-26 [14] was used for accelerated ageing of fabric samples. Samples were exposed to accelerated ageing mechanism to bring them to a state they are expected to arrive after 20 years of time. It has been noted in published research [5] that although total life of an heirloom is expected to be 100years, a fabric faces maximum degradation in its first 20years. After 20years of lifetime rate of deterioration slows down considerable and the fabric more or less stabilises. Thus, fabric samples were aged for 6hrs which is considered equivalent to 20 years of lifespan in this ageing method.

AATCC-26 Heat Ageing method was closest over other methods like Weatherometer etc. as the conditions in this ageing process mimicked closely to museum textiles as they spend most of their life indoors in dark storage.

In Palash/ Manjishtha/ Starch process, the procedure included treatment of fabric with hot water, resulting in removal of some of its superficial components. Thus, net weight after the procedure is total obtained after both addition and subtraction of elements from the fabric structure. However, in case of indigo dyeing, the colour is obtained by dipping the fabric for short duration at normal temperature. Thus, there were lesser chances of any sizing starch or any other matter being removed from the fabric surface. Post ageing, only Palash dyed fabric registered marginal decrease in GSM and Starched fabric exhibits increase in weight. This can again be attributed to probably the role of starch in shrinking the fabric and thus increase in per capita weight of the fabric. Thus, it can be seen that dyeing and starching does not have any adverse impact on the GSM of the fabric pre or post ageing.

V. Retesting Post Ageing: The aged samples were tested again for performance parameters exactly with the same procedure as Step 3. The data obtained was mapped against the values obtained in step 3 and %change in values was calculated. The data obtained was also statistically vetted by applying T-test and Coefficient of Variation. Percentage change in values of a test pre and post ageing provided clear indicator of the change in performance of fabric after ageing and the contribution of dye and finish molecules to that change.

ii. Tensile Strength Tensile Strength is one of the most important parameters that impacts fabric performance. As evident in Fig. 2 and 3, the dyeing/finishing has profound impact on strength characteristics of fabric, even before ageing and this phenomenon gets exemplified after ageing. Since the extent of impact is different in each dye and finish, the possible reason lies with the composition of these dyes and finishing material and its reaction with core fiber.

3. Result and Discussion Finishing procedures like dyeing and stiffening are essential features of any useable product. Analyzing the impact of dyes and stiffening on fabric helped understand their role in ageing of fabrics. The data obtained was able to ascertain the effect of dyes and finishes on the process of fabric deterioration. i. GSM Mapping the changes in GSM would contribute in better understanding of the process as excessive loss in GSM can be viewed as reduction in strength, durability and dimensions of the fabric. It can be seen in Table 2 that even before ageing, dyes and starch finish tend to increase the GSM of the fabric.

The phenomenon is most profound in Indigo dyed fabric.

Possible explanation is that during dyeing/finishing additional molecules are embedded in the fabric structure, contributing to its weight.

Figure 2 : Effect of Ageing on Breaking Load and Extension of Dyed and Finished Cotton Fabrics (Breaking Load)

Table 2 : Effect of Ageing on GSM of Dyed and Finished Cotton Fabrics

GSM Sample No.

Average % change in GSM

Cotton (undyed /unstarched) Before After Ageing Ageing 62.60

63.20 -0.96

Palash Dyed

Manjishtha Dyed

Indigo Dyed

Starch Finished

Before Ageing

After Ageing

Before Ageing

After Ageing

Before Ageing

After Ageing

Before Ageing

After Ageing

67.80

65.00

66.20

66.20

70.60

70.40

67.80

72.80

4.13

0.00

0.28

-7.37

Table 3 Effect of Ageing on Breaking Load and Extension of Dyed and Finished Cotton Fabrics Cotton Palash Manjishtha Indigo Starch (unfinished) Dyed Dyed Dyed Finished

Figure 3 : Effect of Ageing on Breaking Load and Extension of Dyed and Finished Cotton Fabrics (Extension %) Interestingly, the strength in warp direction marginally decreased with application of the three dyes and increases in case of starch application. Again, in case of dyeing the hot water procedures seem to hold the key for slight reduction in strength. In case of starched fabric this is possibly due to favorable reaction of starch to existing warp size. However, in case of weft direction, breaking load increases considerable after dye application. Possibly, absence of size in weft yarns allows more absorption of mordant/dye molecules, contributing to additional strength. Starch finish in weft direction, does not show favorable results.

Surprisingly, loss in strength in warp direction, post-ageing is also high in dyed and finished fabrics. Fabrics dyed with Manjishtha suffer highest loss in breaking load, followed by starched fabrics and then Palash dyed fabric. Indigo dyed fabric does not demonstrate a behavior different then undyed counterpart. Also post ageing, strength in weft direction suffers most in starched fabric, followed by Manjishtha dyed fabric. Both Palash and Indigo dyed fabric manage to maintain higher levels of strength in weft direction as compared to undyed fabric. Interestingly, extension before break reduces considerably in both warp and weft direction after dyeing and finishing. In warp direction, this loss in extension is highest in Manjishtha dyed fabric followed by Starched fabric and then Palash and Indigo. Another interesting fact is that some amount of this extensibility is recovered post ageing, where Manjishtha dyed fabric recovers the least and Palash dyed fabric recover the most followed by Indigo. Again, in the weft direction although all fabrics are losing extensibility after dyeing/finishing, loss is highest in starched fabric followed by Madder dyed fabric with least recovery post-ageing. In fact, in Palash and Indigo dyed fabrics, although the initial loss in extensibility is seen, they retain their extension values closely post ageing and thus perform better than undyed fabric post-ageing, in terms of reaction to strain.

Thus, it can be seen (Table.3) that Starched fabric and Madder dyed fabric exhibit reduction in strength, pre and post ageing as well as their capacity to address strain.

However, fabrics dyed with Palash and Indigo performs better to stress and strain, especially in post ageing scenario.

This observation can have implications in planning exhibition schedules, care and upkeep of museum fabrics.

Also, the results can be useful for calibrating museum care

Breaking Load (Warp) Breaking Load (Weft) Extension % (Warp) Extension % (Weft)

31.16

40.81

66.32

29.84

61.17

32.08

19.09

50.72

10.45

56.03

7.67

-6.33

-1.67

-1.67

2.33

11.88

-0.71

6.04

-1.46

3.58

instruments as per the finishing parameters of the textile artefacts. iii. Abrasion Resistance: It can be seen from Fig.4 that pre ageing, both dyeing and finishing seem to be marginally improving the fabric's capacity to resist abrasion. However, scenario is different post-ageing where weight loss dramatically increases in case of Manjishtha and Indigo dyed fabrics. However, Palash dyed and starched fabrics perform even better than the control fabric in terms of response to surface abrasion.

Figure 4 : Combined Effect of Ageing and Thread count on Abrasion Resistance in different Dyed and Starched Plain weave Cotton Fabric These results reinforce the pre-found pattern of Manjishtha dye aiding in age-related degeneration of fabric. However, results obtained for Indigo dyed fabric and starched dyed fabric are contrary to the previous findings. Thus, conservators need to exercise more caution while administering surface treatments to Manjishtha and Indigo dyed aged fabrics. iv. Flexural Rigidity: Table 4 demonstrates clear reduction in Bending Length before and after dyeing/starching procedure. It is interesting to note that % reduction in bending length is in the same range in dyed samples as the undyed samples after ageing.

However, starched sample suffers almost half of the reduction in bending length as compared to the unstarched sample after ageing. Thus, it can be concluded that although, dyeing and starching has an impact on the initial bending length of cotton fabric, dyeing in particular does not impact the post ageing degeneration pattern in terms of Flexural

Table 4 : Effect of Ageing on Bending Length and Flexural Rigidity of Dyed and Finished Cotton Fabric

Sample No. COTTON (undyed /unstarched)

PALASH

MANJISHTHA

INDIGO

STARCH

Warp Average Weft Average Warp Average Weft Average Warp Average Weft Average Warp Average Weft Average Warp Average Weft Average

Bending Length (mm)

Flexural Rigidity (μjoule/m)

Before Ageing

After Ageing

% Change

Before Ageing

After Ageing

% Change

2.68

1.5

44.03

0.00000175

0.000000323

81.54

1.59

0.78

50.94

0.00000036

0.000000`049

86.39

1.541

0.831

46.04

0.000000363

0.000000057

84.21

1.369

0.744

45.66

0.000000252

0.000000039

84.52

1.572

0.838

46.72

0.000000375

0.000000060

84.08

1.453

0.791

45.59

0.000000294

0.000000048

83.61

1.68

0.88

48.05

0.000000489

0.000000069

85.85

1.38

0.83

40.14

0.000000265

0.000000064

75.98

1.503

1.200

20.17

0.000000346

0.000000187

46.10

0.906

0.825

8.97

0.000000074

0.000000060

19.23

rigidity. However, starch seems to have a positive impact in maintaining the Flexural Rigidity of fabrics post ageing. This brings us to the conclusion that fall and drape of dyed fabrics is expected to be impacted much more severely because of ageing. This observation can have implications on display mechanisms designed for heritage textiles. v. Change in Colour: Comparing the control sample with starched sample provided a better understanding of the impact of starch finish on the fabric.

samples will be more prone to yellowing as compared to the unstarched ones in the museum collection. Coming to the dyed samples, TI and L values were compared in their case. It was seen that in case of Indigo dyed sample, color change suffered least. Although, Palash dyed sample registers negligible change in L value, change in TI is considerable.

On the other hand, Manjistha dyed sample registers equivalent rate of change in both values, i.e., L and TI. Thus, it can be concluded that in Indigo dyed fabrics, color is most stable after ageing while Manjistha and Palash dyed fabrics are expected to suffer color change due to ageing. vi. Wash Fastness Fastness to laundry was studied as a parameter for understanding of the workability of a dyed fabric after accelerated ageing and role of various dye elements in the process.

Table 5 : Effect of Ageing on Wash fastness of Dyed Cotton Fabric

Figure 5 : Effect of Ageing on Color properties of dyed and finished Cotton Fabric It is evident from the Fig. 5 that loss in WI of starched sample is more than twice of the unfinished sample. Also, increase in yellowness in starched sample is also twice of the control sample. Therefore, it can be safely concluded that starching accelerates the loss of whiteness with ageing, thus starched

Palash Manjishtha Indigo

Before Ageing Colour Colour Change Stain 1 4

After Ageing Colour Colour Change Stain 2-3 4-5

2-3

5

2-3

4-5

4

5

3-4

4-5

It has been seen in the previous section that post ageing, Indigo exhibits stability of color and Palash and Manjishtha exhibit color change. Table 6 further strengthens our findings about fastness of these dyes. It can be seen that

before ageing, Palash dye almost completely bleeds from the base fabric to the adjacent white fabric. Post-ageing, the color shade is already weakened, as seen in the previous section; still, it exhibits considerable migration from the dyed fabric to the adjacent white fabric. However, response to laundry in fabric dyed with Manjishtha and Indigo remains unchanged post-ageing. Thus, it can be concluded that Ageing does not bring about any significant change to behavior of the three dyes towards laundry. vii. Light Fastness The three colored test specimens were exposed in the light fastness chamber as per the prescribed standard. The test samples were faded till they were comparable to level 4 color changes on the Grey scale. Contrary to the behavior exhibited by Indigo, the sample faded to level 4, earlier than other two dyed samples and could be compared to Blue wool standard 4.

Thus, it can be concluded that light fastness of Indigo is lower than that of Palash and Manjishtha (Table 7). Another important finding is that the behavior of dyed samples towards light exposure remains unchanged post-ageing.

Table 6 : Effect of ageing on Light Fastness

Before ageing After ageing Blue AATCC Blue AATCC Duration Wool Fading Duration Wool Fading Standard Units Standard Units 6hrs, 6hrs, Palash 4 20 4 20 30mins 30mins 6hrs, 6hrs, Manjishtha 5 40 5 40 30mins 30mins 5hrs, 5hrs, Indigo 5 40 5 40 30mins 30mins 4. Conclusion Palash dyed fabric loses GSM marginally post-ageing, whereas fabrics treated with other dye variations and starch

do not show this phenomenon. Manjishtha dyed and starch finished fabrics exhibit maximum reduction in strength due to ageing, whereas the phenomenon is uneven in case of Palash and Indigo dyed fabric. Abrasion resistance capacity is phenomenally reduced post-ageing in Manjishtha and Indigo dyed fabrics. Loss in bending length after ageing is not particularly affected by presence of various dyes on the fabric. However, fabric finished with starch exhibits better capacity to retain shape and experiences much higher yellowing, post-ageing. Indigo dyed and starch finished samples face maximum yellowing due to ageing and the impact is not so visible in Palash and Manjishtha dyed fabrics. There is negligible change in wash fastness and light fastness patterns of dyed fabrics post-ageing.

Summarizing the results obtained by the above analysis, it can be concluded that starch finish and Manjishtha dye, produce unfavorable results on fabric strength parameters, both pre and post ageing. However, in most cases Palash and Indigo dye are providing better stability to the fabric in case of age-related degeneration. Considering, that mordant 'harda'(alum), has been used in equal proportions in both Palash and Manjishtha, it does not seem to be playing a role in the process. Thus, explanation lies within the basic dye chemistry, i.e., Anthraquinones in Manjishtha dye and Flavonoids in Palash dye, where the latter seems to be more favorable to fabric characteristics.

Thus, it has been experimentally established that dye and finish molecules have a varied and profound impact on the deterioration chemistry of fabrics. Therefore, a conservator needs to thoroughly analyze the constructional parameters of the textile artefact in question before deciding upon a suitable treatment for the same. The observation can also be useful in developing pre-calibrated instrumentation for conservation laboratories with different modes/levels of treatments for fabrics with specific dyes, finishes and other constructional parameters. Industrial application of these observations can open a plethora of opportunities for automated data-based instrumentation for care of heritage textiles.

Table 7 : Comparative Assessment of Change in Performance Parameters Post-ageing in Fabrics applied with Dyes and Finishes as compared to Undyed/Unstarched Fabric

Sample/ Parameter GSM (% Change) Tensile Warp Strength % Weft Change Abrasion Resistance % Change Flexural Warp Rigidity – Weft % Change Yellowness Index (dYI)

Undyed / Unstarched Control Sample -0.96

Palash Sample

Manjishtha Sample

Indigo Sample

Starch Sample

4.13

0.00

0.28

-7.37

31.16

40.81

66.32

29.84

61.17

32.08

19.09

50.72

10.45

56.03

8.89

-2.43

46.53

39.75

9.44

81.54

84.21

84.08

85.85

46.10

86.39

84.52

83.61

75.98

19.23

-5.61

3.81

-4.51

-12.46

-10.19

References [1] Kousoulou, T., 1999, 'Photodegradation and photostabilization of historic silks in the museum environment-evaluation of a new conservation treatment', Papers from the Institute of Archaeology, University College London, Vol. 10, pg. 75-88

[2] Cardamone, J. M., 2000, 'Historic Textiles and Paper', In Historic Textiles, Papers and Polymers in Museums, ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society; Washington D.C., pg. 2-7 [3] Daniels, V., 1999, 'Factors Affecting the Deterioration of the Cellulosic Fibres in Black-Dyed New Zealand Flax (Phormium Tenax)', Studied in Conservation, Vol. 44, pg. 73-85 [4] Rowe, S., 2004, 'The Effect of Insect Fumigation by Anoxia on Textiles Dyed with Prussian Blue', Studies in Conservation, Vol. 49, No. 4, pg. 259-270 [5] Sachdeva, K., Suri, M. and Bhagat, S., “Assaying Changes in Museum Textiles on Ageing-A Short Note.” Conservation on Cultural Property in India 39 (2011): 119–22 [6] Marsh, J.T., 1979, Textile Science-an Introductory Manual, 4th Impression, B.I. Publications, India [7] Miller, J. B. and Whistler, R., 2009, Starch-Chemistry and Technology, Third Edition, Elsevier Academic Press, New York, USA [8] ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 'Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)', ASTM D 5034-09, ASTM International, PA, United States [9] ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 'Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics', ASTM D 1388-08, ASTM International, PA, United States [10] ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 'Standard Test Method for Abrasion resistance of Textile Fabrics', ASTM D 4966-10, ASTM International, PA, United States [11] ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 'Standard Practice for Calculating Yellowness and Whiteness Indices from Instrumentally Measured Color Coordinates', ASTM E 313-00 ASTM International, PA, United States [12] AATCC Test Method 16-1998, 2000, 'Colorfastness to Light', AATCC Technical Manual, pg. 23-34 [13] AATCC Test Method 61-2007, 2008, 'Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated', AATCC Technical Manual, pg. 86-90 [14] AATCC Test Method 26-1994, 1995, 'Ageing of Sulfur-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated', AATCC Technical Manual, Vol.70, pg.

80-81

Daily Profit & Loss Account Vilas Gharat Performance of any Business depends on skills of CEO / Unit Heads – Effective & Efficient Management. Every effective action or performance depends on TOP & it gets percolated down. We are there to assist you from Top to bottom.

Vilas Gharat Mr. Vilas Gharat is working as a Managing Director, for Gharat & Associates, having over 50 years' experience in manufacturing function in all composite sectors of Textile Industry. Out of which more than a decade in Operations and HR with emphasis in Business Process Consulting, Mr. Gharat is having Specialization in various eld of textile value chain like; Ÿ Change Management, Business Development and Project Management Ÿ Project Management, Business Development Ÿ Supply Chain Management Ÿ Resource Allocation Ÿ Process Reengineering Ÿ Change Management, Production and Business Ÿ Planning Function Ÿ Training and Mentoring CEO's He has wide experience in: Business Consultant for Oswal Hammerle, for their upcoming state of art technology plant for manufacture of sophisticated Yarn Dyed Shirting Project, primarily catering to the needs of international garment manufacturers. This is a Joint Venture project of Oswal group and F.M. Hammerle (Austria) His previous assignment involves restructuring and transformation of a large Textile units He worked with various executive capacities as Executive Director -Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd.; Senior President in S Kumar's., Technical & Commercial Advisor in J. K. Cotton Mills, Senior President in Morarjee Brembana Ltd., Birla's in Indonesia, Oswal Hammerle, Bhojsons, Nigeria etc.

Awards: Mr. Gharat was awarded with Best General Manager Award in MSTC - National Award for energy conservation for Simplex Mills & MSTC and Best Vendor Award from Johnson & Johnson.

Mr. Gharat was awarded with FTA by The Textile Association (India) in 1999, Mr. Vilas Gharat was a President of The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit during 20172019 and 2019-2021. Now he is on the Board of Trustees of TAI – Mumbai Unit.

E-mail: vilasgharat@gmail.com, gharatandassociates@gmail.com

Textile Industry is oldest industry in India & has been passing through ups & down for several years. It is having verities of products & hence many variables.

As long as human being is wearing cloth it will flourish provided manage effectively as per recent trends & fashion. It has been also observed that today's young & efficient CEOs are not getting attracted towards Textile Industry may be because of low returns or more stress- full job. And hence we offer our services to groom effective CEO / Unit Head for your unit by simple & effective systems.

The financial health of every business is very important & hence we can design daily P/L know as Padta which will help CEO to take corrective action.

Generally, P/L is prepared every month & CEO has only 12 chances to take corrective action but if we prepare daily P/L he has minimum 350 chances for correction.

The Padta is true TOOL for CEO to maintain strong financial health of organization & it is 95% matching with monthly Profit/Loss.

Profit & Loss Account Profit and Loss Account is the first financial statement prepared before preparing the Balance Sheet. It is also known as the P&L account or Income Statement.

The Income Statement provides a complete summary of revenue generated and expenses incurred by a company, which in turn gives an insight into a company's financial status. It helps us to define whether the company is making profits or incurring losses.

In simple terms, the profit and loss statement provides a detailed look into the financial health of a company during the accounting year.

Generally, all of units are calculating monthly P/ L on 07th or before that of the next month. In this case we have only 12 chances to take corrective action. Hence, we suggest working out daily Gross P/L statement with certain assumptions so that we have minimum 350 chances to take corrective action. If properly panned daily P/L is matching 95% to monthly P/L. Methods to Prepare Profit & Loss Account You can prepare the Profit and Loss Account or Income Statement by two methods: 1. Single Step Statement 2. Multiple-Step Statement Single-Step Method Generally, small companies prepare the Income Statement using the Single Step statement. It is a simple method and widely used.

In this method, you just take the total amount of Revenues and subtract them from the total expenses to find the gain or loss made by any business.

The formula to calculate Profit/Loss by Single-step method is as follows: Net Revenues – Total Expenses = Net Profit or Loss.

Multiple-Step Method Big volume companies use a Multi-Step method. To prepare this statement,

generally following steps are followed:Calculate gross profit.

Make a total of Operating expenses.

Deduct them from the gross profit.

You will get the income from operating activities.

Deduct Expenses from Income from operations. This is your Earnings Before Investments & Taxes. Ÿ The final step is to deduct taxes. Ÿ This gives you the net income/loss for the period. Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ

The formula to calculate Profit/Loss by Multiple-Step Method is as follows: Revenues – Expenses – Taxes = Net Profit or Loss Revenues = Sales Revenue – Sales Returns + Service Revenue + Wastage Revenue + Other Revenue Expenses = All operating expenses + Cost of goods sold + Research and Development + Salaries and Wages + Administrative Expenses + Travel + Utilities + Other Expenses.

Purpose of preparing Profit and Loss Account 1. It provides a brief understanding of the financial health of a company.

2. It helps to project revenues.

3. Forecast Expenditures.

4. Compare actual performance with projection.

5. Maintain provision and reserves depending on the financial health of the company.

6. It gives us to take corrective action.

7. It should be reviewed with operation staff for improvements.

The daily P/L is called as Padta in Textile Industry & customised formats can be created. We can assist you online to create such formats provided all necessary details are provided to us. It is very essential for CEO OR Business Head for taking prompt corrective action.

Similarly, we can monitor daily with person concern for taking corrective actions immediately to avoid further losses.

It is preventive statement for making your business grow with sound financial Heath.

We believe Your Success is our Satisfaction. Please contact on below mail id provided with your requirements. We are available 24*7 bases.

Industry 4.0: An Exciting Opportunity for the Textile Industry R. Guruprasad Senior Research Scientist, Pulp & Fibre Innovation Centre, Grasim Industries Limited, Panvel, MS

Industry 4.0 is an opportunity to radically change the way the textile industries respond to the needs of the customers. The textile manufacturers across the globe have already made investments in 4.0 technologies. Now they are looking at ways on how to effectively scale up their successes to create real enterprise value and achieve sustainable competitive advantages. As we know, Industry 4.0 is all about connectivity. The nine pillars of industry 4.0 are: (1) Virtual reality (2) Additive manufacturing (3) Internet of things (4) Big data (5) Cloud computing (6) Advanced simulation (7) Autonomous robots (8) system integration, and (9) Cyber security. We see a lot of automation solutions being implemented across the textile value chain right from fibre manufacturing to retailing at various levels.

Industry 4.0 technologies have the potential to further add value to these systems by capturing data in real time, expedite the decision making process resulting in improved productivity and reduced cost. The integration is now the key for achieving success. Automation itself poses certain challenges, for example, embedding sensors in harsh chemical environments to capture data. Manufacturers need to map the pre-production, production and post-production activities before embarking on a digital journey.

The current manufacturing setup uses system like ERP to capture the production, quality and logistics related data and provide feedback to management. With implementation of technologies like Internet of Things (IoT), a real time access to ERP data is possible and hence decision making is going to be quick and efficient. The production and logistics processes will become more flexible. The implementation, however, should consider the practical challenges in integration and hence the solutions are not universal but rather tailor-made according to the requirements. Many of the processes that are low skilled and repetitive nature would be taken by robotic systems. With huge data available, mining data to establish relationships and predicting output with more accuracy has become a possibility. Implementing advanced simulation techniques could add to predictive analytic capability. Industries largely use 4.0 technologies as a tool to make existing operations more efficient and cost-effective. Organisations can expand the use of these technologies to include suppliers, customers, partners and others in the business ecosystem and can create new innovative business models. These technologies can bring lot of transparency to manufacturing sector and these benefits can be extended to customers as well.

The success of these technologies in the manufacturing largely is relying on the confidence that the business leaders exhibit in implementing these technologies in the shop floor. With industry 4.0, employees are going to work in a more digital and data driven environment. It is time for leaders to take necessary steps in building work force with right skill sets to harness the benefits of 4.0 technologies and transform conventional factories into smart factories!

The views expressed here are solely the views of the author and they do not necessarily reflect the views of the company he is associated or of the journal.

Face2Face - Interview with Dr. Mona Suri Dr. Mona Suri PFHEA, Higher Education Academy, U.K. Academic Vice President, Royal University for Women, (RUW), Kingdom of Bahrain Associate Professor, Fabric and Apparel Science Former Reader, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi Dr. Mona Suri, Associate Professor, is the Academic Vice President at Royal University for Women (RUW), PFHEA, Higher Education Academy, UK, with a teaching experience of more than 31 years. She completed her studies in Fabric and Apparel Science from Delhi University, India. She has been actively involved in research and teaching and has successfully supervised six PhD and 45 Master's students. She has many publications, presentations and awards to her credit.

Dr. Mona Suri was teaching at Lady Irwin College, Delhi University, New Delhi, for twenty years and joined the Royal University for Women in September 2008 and in the last thirteen years, has been contributing the academic and corporate life of RUW. Before taking up the role of Academic Vice President she was the Dean for College of Art & Design for over six years.

In these Pandemic times, increasing focus on the education, the role at the academic institutes with maintaining the standards of their teaching, Mr. J. B. Soma, Hon. Asso. Editor & Publisher of JTA, took the opportunity to have the deliberation with her on the Educational Leadership and the Pandemic.

Q.: What will be the main consideration of educational Leadership?

Ans.: Leadership is about who you are as well as what you the characters of a good leader do are evident during crisis and unforeseen circumstances. In the field of education it is even more critical as multiple stakeholders are involved ranging from students, parents, faculty members, administrative support staff employers, alumnae and advisory boards.

In my opinion, Agility is the most important consideration of Educational leadership. In addition, flexibility, good communication, collaboration and showing empathy to the teams are also very important characteristics of an educational leader.

Q.; What is expected from the educators in responding to the challenges of the pandemic?

Ans.: All educators faced challenging circumstances due to recent Pandemic. Closure of university premises lead to suspension of classes. The most important challenges were ensuring safety and wellbeing of all stakeholders, continuity of operations and maintaining academic standards. All educational institutions had to resort to alternate methods of delivery and most importantly switching from face to face to online mode in a very short span of time.

In my opinion, while responding to the pandemic, the academic leader, in any institution, should balance the Health and safety requirements with teaching and learning environment as per the suggested model below:

The following need to be addressed by educators to respond to any pandemics/ challenging situations: Ÿ Effective Crisis Management Ÿ Maintaining Academic Continuity Ÿ Engagement of students with online environment Ÿ Preparedness of faculty members at all times Ÿ Adequacy of both human and ICT resources Ÿ Seeking regular feedback from all stakeholders Ÿ Timely action based on the situation, feedback and resources Q.: Which leadership model will help to improve the practice strength and develop the knowledge in challenging circumstances?

Ans.: Leadership choices range from Bureaucratic, democratic, autocratic, participatory, visionary etc.

Leadership style should fit well in the environment and prevailing conditions. The right kind of leadership approach needed during challenging situations is Participatory, Delegative, and Collaborative with flexibility that allows people to look at things from all perspectives. The leader may have much strength but may not have all, hence it is important to build up a team that has all and can manage the situations well. Effective and regular communication internally and externally is required (with students, faculty members, support staff, Advisory Boards, employers and Regulatory bodies) at all times.

Q.: What are the Educational responses to the pandemic with positive and negative features?

Ans.: The educational responses to pandemic were a mixed bag. On the positive side Virtual Learning was the most important feature, where both educators and students adapted beautifully to the challenge of closure of educational institutions and lack of face to face teaching. In addition, active learning, appropriate use of technology in the classroom, availability of Plugins for virtual teaching, e resources of library, timely capacity building of staff and students to deal with challenges, emotional maturity and agility exhibited by students, teachers and parents are also worth mentioning.

On the negative side lack of engagement, non-availability of technology to all students, anxiety about classes, inadequate level of training for students and teachers, heavy workloads, inappropriate course design (for online teaching) and faculty fatigue, need to be considered objectively for future considerations.

Q.: What will be your thoughts for implicating the education to take forward, after the pandemic is over?

Ans.: In my opinion the online teaching is here to stay. The hybrid form of teaching and learning can have lots of advantages for both educational institutions (from effective use of Infrastructure, space, hiring of competent International faculty, online guest lectures from industry etc.) as well as for students (flexibility of learning, anytimeanywhere teaching and learning, use of technology etc.).

In order to effectively use this as an opportunity the educational institutions must invest in training needs of Faculty and Students, use active teaching methods for effective engagement with students, use of appropriate online assessment methods, effective use of learning management systems (Moodle/ BigBlueButton/ Zoom etc.).

In this transition the role of Regulatory Bodies in establishing and implementing norms of hybrid teaching and Educational Leadership will be critical.

Q.: How the Digitizing of Technological Teacher Education and Professional Development is providing the support, strategies for adapting to the change?

Ans.: Digitizing of Education and Professional Development has opened new horizons to support education after the pandemic. In the last two years, to meet the needs of the 'New Normal' there have been changes in content of the curricula offered, mode of deliveries and assessment. Academic institutions are revisiting the way they are teaching and do that effectively the faculty members and student's capacities must be built through training and professional development.

For this endeavor many organizations are offering online bridging programmes, small bytes of new knowledge, and digital badges for students and faculty on knowledge and

skill based concepts. It is imperative that to efficiently adapt to this change all academic institution strategize, allocate resources and provide the necessary support.

Q.: What is your opinion on the new Educational Policy, Indian Govt. has announced for the implantation? Will it be advantage or disadvantage to the academics?

Ans.: As per the NEP 2020, Skill gap exists in all sectors including IT, manufacturing, pharma and Infrastructure.

Thus there is an emphasis on Skill enhancement- Right skillets amongst students and restructuring the Educational ecosystem. This emphasis on developing technical as well as soft skills will lead to holistic learning through multidisciplinary approach and stress on vocational education. In addition the students will have the option of exiting at different levels with qualifications certificate in the form of a degree or diploma. In my view, the NEP 202 is a very progressive initiative in line with the International norms that will benefit the students and India as a country.

Q.: How can be attracted the overseas students in the Indian Educational Institutes?

Ans.: Educational tourism is a very popular concept that all the countries are adopting to attract the student body that will ensure revenues to their economies. For Indian Educational Institutes to attract more students firstly it is important the Qualifications offered are internationally accredited and recognized. This will give the credibility to the Indian degrees offered and will ensure international acceptance.

Secondly, the academic Institutes must ensure that travel and Visa requirements for International students are handled efficiently for a smooth experience. Thirdly the student experience about co-curricular activities, student life and experiential learning should be as per international norms.

India has a very rich heritage, breathtaking locations, beautiful tourist attractions that are bound to impress the students who decide to study in India. In my opinion it is important that this initiative is steered at the National level with all required policies, procedures and framework for effective implementation.

Central Ofce Mr. Ranbir K. Vij elected as the President of TAI, Central Office The Textile Association (India) – Central Office elected new Office Bearers for the term 20212023 in Governing Council Meeting hosted by TAI Ahmedabad Unit at Dinesh Hall, on 04th December, 2021.

In the election Mr. Ranbir K. Vij, was elected as the President of TAI, Central for the term 20212023 and Mr. Tulsidas L. Patel was elected as the Vice President of TAI, Central for the term 20212023.

Mr. R. K. Vij is MBA from Delhi University, Post Graduate Diploma in Management from YMCA, New Delhi and Bachelor of Technology in Textiles from The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, (TITS) Bhiwani (Haryana).

Mr. Vij has an extensive experience of over 50 years in successfully managing business of Textiles and Fibers in dynamic and competitive business scenario. He is Advisor - Polyester at M/s Indorama Synthetics (India) Limited since 1994. He worked on various positions from Production Manager, Marketing Head, Business Head and Govt. Liaison etc.

Mr. Vij is Secretary General of Polyester Textiles and Apparel Association (PTA). He participated in CII, FICCI, FIO, CITI, NIMA meetings. He interacts with Textile Ministry, Chemical Ministry etc.

He is a Sports man and represented Punjab state as a Badminton player and Secretary of RWA of Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi. He is also advisor and on Board of SPS School, Haryana.

Mr. Vij is actively involved with The Textile Association (India), Delhi Unit and also with the TAI Central. He is a recipient of Service Memento, awarded in 2007 by the Textile Association (India) at All India Textile Conference held at Ahmedabad.

Mr. Tulsidas L. Patel He is holding D.T.M. and ATA. He is actively associated with the Textile Association (India) – Ahmadabad Unit. He is a Lifetime member of TAI since 1977. He has served the TAI Ahmadabad Unit in various positions such as Jt. Hon. Secretary (1985 to 1987), Hon. Secretary (1987 to 1991), Unit President (1995 to 1999) & (2003 to 2019). Mr. Patel became a Governing Council Member for TAI Central during 2003 to 2019, 1995 to 2001 and 2003 to 2021. Under his dynamic leadership, TAI Ahmadabad Unit's Dinesh Hall Building was re-developed and re-contracted beautifully, which is now a decent Auditorium having capacity of 700 seats.

Unit organized 9 (Nine) All India Textile Conferences in 1951, 1961, 1973, 1978, 1983, 1992, 1998 & 2007, out of which 1992, 1998 & 2007 AITC were organized under his tenure of Hon. Secretary & President ship with a grand success.

Also during his tenure, Unit organized Denim Conference in 1995 & 2010, Cotton Ginning Conference (Back to Glory) in 2013 and 80 years Birth Anniversary of TAI celebrated with Conference in 2019. Under his leadership TAI Ahmadabad Unit was awarded Nine times Best Unit Trophy with 3 consecutive hat-tricks.

Mr. T. L. Patel was awarded with Service Memento in 1997 and Service Gold Medal award in 2005. He has offered his services as Conference Chairman and Advisor for several National and International Conferences organized by TAI. Presently he is a Proprietor of his V. K. Associates.

He was Vice President of The Textile Association (India) – Central Office during 2017-2019 and 2019-2021.

Other Office Bearers as under:

Mr. Ashok Veda

Mr. Haresh B. Parekh

Mr. M. G. Patel

Mr. R. N. Joshi

Chairman

Vice Chairman

Hon. Gen. Secretary

Jt. Hon. Secretary

Mr. S. Sivakumar

Dr. V. D. Gotmare

Mr. H. S. Patel (M.P.)

Jt. Hon. Secretary

Hon. Treasurer

Special Invitee

Vidharbha Unit Mr. Hemant Sonare elected as President of TAI - Vidharbha Unit The Textile Association (India) – Vidarbha Unit, established in the year 1949 has more than 860 membership strength.

Dr. Hemant Sonare, has been elected as the President of The Textile Association (India) – Vidarbha Unit for the term 2021-2023. He is a Director of Wanjari Group of Institutions and the President of Maharashtra Pradesh Congress – Industry Cell.

Dr. Hemant Sonare

Mr. Kiran Katare is an Assistant Vice President of Suryaamba Spinning Mills, Nagpur has been elected as Honorary Secretary The Textile Association (India)-Vidarbha Unit for the term 2021-2023.

Other Office Bearers are includes; Vice President – Mr. D. S. Kulkarni, Ex Principal, Govt. Polytechnic, Nagpur.

Vice President – Mr. Ajay Saxena, President, Shree Bhagirath Textiles, Kalameshwar.Chairman – Vice Chairman – Mr. H. K. Mitkar, Vice President, GTN Industries Ltd, Saoner Joint Secretary – Mr. R. K. Mishra, Ex. General Manager, Pee Vee Textiles Ltd., Nagpur Joint Secretary – Mr. S. K. Thaokar, G. M., Nirmal Ujjwal Co-op. Spinning Mills Ltd. Treasurer

– Mr. Amarjeet Singh, Director, A. J. Beltings

FTA Award Recipients Mr. Jitendra Kumar Srivastava Gen. Manager (R&D) Poddar Pigments Ltd. Jaipur

Dr. Mukesh Kumar Sinha Dy. Director DRDD Kanpur

Dr. P. P. Raichurkar Addi onal Director Man Made Tex les Research Associa on (MANTRA) Surat

Mr. Vidyadhar Bhajekar Managing Director Global Organic Tex le Standard Mumbai

Mr. K. Saktheeswaran Gen. Manager (Exports) J.P.P. Mills Pvt. Ltd. Erode

Dr. N. Vigneshwaran Principal Scien st ICAR, CIRCOT, Mumbai

Dr. Kasilingam Rajkumar Director - SC-HAG, Scale IRMRA, MOCI, Govt. of India Thane

Mumbai

2019

U. P.

2019

Karanataka

2020

Mumbai

2020

Erode

2020

Mumbai

2021

Mumbai

2021

COLORANT is one of the leading Manufacturers and Exporters of “Colron Reactive Dyes”. It is the first Indian Dyestuff Company to be certified for prestigious “ZDHC (Level-3)” Certification. The Company is Government recognized “Export House” since 2007.

The award was received by Mr. Subhash Bhargava (Managing Director) through the hands of Padam Bhushan Rajjubhai Shroff (Chairman UPL group) and Mr. Yogendra Tripathi (Secretary- Department of Chemicals & Petrochemicals, Government of India).

It's a matter of great pride that M/s. Colorant Limited have received prestigious “Anil Mehta award” by The Dyestuffs Manufacturers Association of India for best dyestuff manufacturing unit. The function was held on 12 November, 2021 at Hotel Sea Princess, Mumbai.

Colorant Limited also received first award for their performance in domestic market for the year 2019-20 & 2020-21.

Ÿ

The system will provide brands with unparalleled traceability and quality assurance that genuine premium LENZING™ Lyocell Skin fiber types are used in facial sheet masks under VEOCEL™ Beauty brand

Ÿ

Lenzing sees continuous growth momentum for VEOCEL™ brand as supply chain transparency for beauty products takes center stage among environmentally conscious consumers and businesses

nonwovens fabric, to ensuring authenticity and transparency of fiber materials used in facial sheet masks,” said Jürgen Eizinger, Vice President of Global Nonwovens Business, Lenzing AG. “With the introduction of the Single-Use Plastics Directive in the European Union earlier this year, it is indeed a timely launch for our Fiber Identification System for VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers. As brands become more aware of the importance of supply chain transparency and set it as a priority for their business model and reputation, we anticipate that the Fiber Identification System will play a key role for our VEOCEL™ Beauty brand in 2022 and beyond.”

Globally, strong growth is expected in the beauty segment, with the facial sheet mask market forecasted to reach USD14 billion by 2030. As consumers continue to look out for ways to lead a more sustainable lifestyle, the need for brands to provide product quality assurance and supply chain transparency is ever growing. To address the increasing need for transparency and traceability in materials used in beauty products, VEOCEL™ Beauty brand has launched the Fiber Identification System for LENZING™ Lyocell Skin, LENZING™ Lyocell Fine Skin and LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers, which presents unparalleled traceability, quality assurance and trustworthy communication that genuine premium LENZING™ Lyocell Skin fiber types are used in facial sheet masks.

“In recent years we have been witnessing an evolution within the beauty industry, from merely focusing on the quality of

Premium fibers with a net-zero footprint The Fiber Identification System is applicable to the skin fiber types under VEOCEL™ Beauty brand, which are ideal for use in facial sheet masks. Made in Austria, the fibers are of botanic origin, biodegradable and compostable. Nonwoven fabrics made of LENZING™ Lyocell Skin fiber types also feature Lenzing's patented Translucency technology which offers naturally smooth and more translucent facial sheet masks. In addition to the exquisite quality, LENZING™ Lyocell Skin fibers are also good for the environment as they are certified CarbonNeutral® products with a carbon footprint reduced to net-zero.

Identification of fibers in final products to combat counterfeit materials The Fiber Identification System can identify fibers in the final products, providing quality control and authenticity assurance for brands against inferior counterfeit products.

Products verified by the system also provide consumers with an added level of assurance and peace of mind that materials used in their beauty products are certified clean and made of genuine premium eco-friendly fibers.

impacts of possible counterfeit materials used in their daily care products. With the launch of the Fiber Identification System, we are able to identify and verify usage of LENZING™ Lyocell skin fiber types, thus reinforcing the VEOCEL™ Beauty brand as a “label of trust” for the beauty sector. With such confidence on supply chain transparency, brands will be able focus their efforts on other aspects of the business, supporting brand expansions in the long run,” added Steven Tsai, Senior Regional Commercial Director for Nonwovens Asia, Lenzing.

“Around the globe, and especially in the Asia Pacific region, we have been hearing a lot about the usage of counterfeit materials in beauty product manufacturing sectors. Brands and consumers are also more cautious about negative health

For more information please contact: Miray Demirer Acar Head of Marketing, Nonwovens (EU & Americas & MEA) E-mail: m.demirer@lenzing.com

The positive market dynamics, which Rieter has already reported on several occasions, continued in the third quarter of the current year. Rieter recorded an order intake of CHF 698.6 million in the third quarter of 2021 (2020: CHF 174.4 million).

The order intake of CHF 1 673.9 million after nine months corresponds to an increase of 294% compared to the prior year period (2020: CHF 425.1 million).

The market development is broadly supported at the global level and is based on a catch-up effect from 2019 and 2020 in combination with a regional shift in demand. Rieter believes that a major reason for this regional shift in demand is the develop-ment of costs in China. This is leading to increased investments outside the Chinese market. The orders came primarily from Turkey, Latin America, India, Pakistan and China. Overall, Rieter is benefitting from its innovative product range and the global positioning of the company.

Order Intake by Business Group CHF million Rieter Machines & Systems Components After Sales

January – January – Change in September September Change local 2021 2020 currency 1673.9 425.1 294% 294% 1281.6

234.5

447%

447%

227.0 165.3

116.6 74.0

95% 123%

94% 126%

The Business Group Machines & Systems achieved an order intake totaling CHF 1 281.6 million in the first nine months of 2021 (+447%). This is where the catch-up effect and the regional shift in demand are particularly evident.

In the first nine months of 2021, the Business Group Components recorded an increase of 95% to CHF 227.0 million, while the Business Group After Sales posted an order intake of CHF 165.3 million, an increase of 123% compared to the prior year period. The continued increased

demand for spare and wear parts at the well utilized spinning mills is the main reason for the positive order intake in both Business Groups.

The order backlog as of September 30, 2021, was around CHF 1 562 million (September 30, 2020: CHF 515 million).

Acquisition of the three Saurer businesses on schedule The acquisition of the three businesses from Saurer, which Rieter announced on August 16, 2021, is proceeding according to plan. The incoming orders for these businesses are not taken into account in this trading update.

Credit lines renewed early The Rieter Group arranged the early renewal of the existing committed credit lines (five-year term, totaling CHF 250 million).

Outlook 2021 The first nine months of 2021 were characterized by a rapid market recovery combined with a regional shift in demand.

Rieter expects the demand for new systems to gradually return to normal in the coming months.

The company assumes that the spinning mills will continue to work at full capacity.

The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks, in light of bottlenecks in material deliveries and freight capacities as well as the ongoing pandemic in countries that are important for Rieter.

Presentation Material The media- and investor presentation as well as the media release can be found at: https://www.rieter.com/media/media-kit/ Forthcoming Dates Ÿ Publication of sales 2021 January 26, 2022 Deadline for proposals regarding the agenda of the Annual General Meeting February 18, 2022 Ÿ Results press conference 2022 March 9, 2022 Ÿ Annual General Meeting 2022 April 7, 2022 For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Rieter Management AG Investor Relations Media Relations Kurt Ledermann Relindis Wieser Chief Financial Officer Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 15 T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com media@rieter.com www.rieter.com www.rieter.com

For the full year 2021, Rieter anticipates sales of around CHF 900 million.

The Truetzschler OPTIMA concept which was designed as a single machine for carpet filament yarn production initially has now evolved into a system platform, with the introduction of the MO40-E. Truetzschler Man-Made Fibers' Optima range of carpet yarn machines consists of the compact MO40-C extrusion system for standard yarn and the MO40-E for standard and specialty Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF) yarn production.

MO40-C – a 4-end extrusion system for standard BCF filament yarns

Unveiled at ITMA 2019, Barcelona, the Truetzschler “OPTIMA” is a proprietary 4-end carpet yarn machine.

Today, MO40-C BCF systems are running stably and efficiently at various customer sites.

The production window of the MO40-C is impressive as 4 ends can be spun and wound simultaneously on bobbins. The high productivity of 4 yarn ends applies to the MO40-C not only for standard yarns but also for finer low-dpf (denier per filament) qualities down to 1.5 dpf. Thanks to a very short melt line from the extruder to the spin beam and the symmetrical yarn path through the machine, four highquality, identical threads are created. Each bobbin of a spinning position has the same yarn characteristics in each section. The minimum yarn count for 4 bobbins is 500 dtex, by plying two threads and 2 bobbins, with up to 6,000 dtex being produced in one position.

A main objective of the OPTIMA project was to reduce the space required for one spinning position. With a footprint of 2,000 mm x 2,000 mm, the MO40-C can fit in a small space if the system has to be planned into an existing hall. Even in a new building, the MO40-C's high production output per square meter is a notable feature. In fact, the MO40-C has the industry's highest throughput of yarn per square metre of production space.

Figure Truetzschler MO40-C

MO40-E - a flexible solution for high count and standard yarn qualities In recent years, the demand for smooth, velvety carpet surfaces has increased.

Innovations in this area are in demand because only a large number of finest carpet yarns can TMMF-MO40-E produce the desired velvety-smooth surface effect. The production of so-called high-count yarns with the smallest single filament titre is demanding – but with the new MO40-E it is within reach.

More filaments in a BCF yarn require more and larger spinnerets. This leads to larger spin packs and wider spin beams. High-quality yarns are only created if the still hot and soft individual filaments do not stick together after the spinnerets are all evenly cooled. The MO40-E therefore also has a widened quenching cabinet so that the cool process air reaches all the individual filaments evenly.

MO40-C and MO40-E in comparison:

Position pitch (mm) Max. no. of filaments Titre range (dTex) 1 dpf range (dTex) 5 Spinneret width (mm) Quench cabinet width (mm)

MO40-C (Compact)

MO40-E (Extended)

2000

2500

500

750

500 - 60002

7503 - 70002 (500 - 7.0002)4

1.5 - 28

1.5 - 28

240

400

1255

1760

Note: Depending on polymer and number of filaments: 2 different spin packs 2 Assembled/plied 3 MO40-E spin pack 1

Uster Technologies is to have a new Chief Executive, in a planned and phased handover by April 2022. At his own request, current CEO Thomas Nasiou decided to step-down, and will be succeeded by Davide Maccabruni, former CEO of SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG and General Manager of Savio Group Components.

Thomas Nasiou, who has been CEO for the past 6 years and in Uster Technologies for the last 16 years, has decided to

Figure 3 The MO40-E can produce standard or high-count yarn 4 5

Standard MO40-C spin pack with adapter Depending on polymer, number of filaments and texturing

Since high-count yarns are a niche product, the MO40-E is also designed to produce standard BCF with titres of 3 dpf or more. The working window ranges from 500 to 7,000 dTex. In these cases, a standard spin pack is inserted into the spin beam with the help of an adapter.

The increased flexibility has its price: the larger spin packs for the high-count yarns require a wider spin beam and a higher pitch of 2,500 mm. The residence time of the melt remains very short despite the structural adjustments.

A.T.E. has more than 80 years of experience in the Indian textile industry and provides end-to-end solutions across the textile value chain. Its domain knowledge and relationships have made it a sought after partner for carpet manufacturing machinery.

For more details, please contact: Trützschler Switzerland AG Schlosstalstrasse 45 CH - 8406 Winterthur E-Mail: info@truetzschler.ch Carpet & Synthetic Machinery Division, Textile Engineering - Fabric Forming A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED T: +91 98247 89116 E-mail: carpet@ategroup.com W: www.ategroup.com

step-down as CEO: “Since I joined Uster and also during my tenure as CEO, I only felt privileged and honored to meet and work with so many colleagues and friends. We have been through some exciting and challenging times, innovating, developing and growing together, keeping in mind creating value for ourselves, for our organization and for our customers and partners,” he says.

“We maintained our focus on the needs of our customers and

next step as CEO” says Thomas Nasiou: “Davide's deep and broad textile expertise, knowledge and innovation spirit will ensure continuity and stability of the Uster business. His experiences as well as his personal values fit ideally to the Uster culture”. Davide studied Management and Production Engineering at Politecnico di Milano and got his Ph.D. in Management, Technology and Economics from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) in Zurich.

our commitment to providing the best solutions to help them with the many challenges they face in todays but mainly tomorrow's demanding market environment. The work has been enjoyable and fulfilling. It is time for me to change my priorities in life and focus more on other personal interests, which require time and energy. I am glad that we have found the ideal successor, so we can work towards a seamless transition for the future.”

The successor of Thomas Nasiou will join Uster on January 1, 2022 and will take over as CEO on April 1, 2022.

New CEO: a colleague with textile industry background Davide Maccabruni has extensive experience of the textile industry, with customers and the markets. His experience has been gained working in both innovation and management roles at Sultex (ITEMA weaving), at SSM and at Savio. He has a detailed understanding of the needs of modern textile manufacturers.

“This background makes him uniquely qualified to take the

Card-Monroe Corp. (CMC), headquartered in Chattanooga, Tennessee, USA, is the premier manufacturer of tufting machines for carpet, rug, and artificial turf producers throughout the world.

At present with nearly 90% of carpets produced by tufting, CMC's focus on tufting and its dedication to make its customers more successful has made CMC the preferred choice for the tufting machines across the globe. Every machine is customised to match the unique requirements of each customer. In line with its mission to “bring industryleading tufting technology to the world”, CMC invests millions of dollars annually to advance their state-of-the-art technology.

The beginning CMC was founded in 1981, but its experience in tufting machine manufacturing dates back to decades earlier. In the 1930's, the Cobble brothers began manufacturing tufting equipment for chenille bedspreads. Two of CMC's leaders, Roy Card and the late Lewis Card Sr., nephews of the

From 1998 until 2004 he worked as assistant and research associate in the Institute for Textile Machinery and Textile Industry / Institute of Manufacturing Automation at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) in Zurich. From 2004 until 2006 he was a project manager at SSM and from 2006 until 2009 he has been the CTO in Sultex and ITEMA Weaving. In 2009 he joined SSM as CTO and in 2016 he became its CEO, until 2020 when he joined Savio as the General Manager of the Savio Group Components.

“I am glad and honored to join Uster, an organization that offered so much to our textile industry “, he says. “I commit to serve with my knowledge and experience to the efforts of all Uster colleagues to stay focused on 'Think Quality' and remain successful developing solutions that create value for the entire textile chain. But more importantly, to work together and make sure that the Uster spirit of a great organization remains and thrives”.

Davide Maccabruni was born in 1974 and holds both the Italian and Swiss nationality. He is married and has two children. The Board of Directors and Toyota Industries Corporation are pleased that the successor for the CEO has been found early, providing the time for continuity and a successful takeover.

Cobbles, made their beginning in the 1940's with Cobbles.

These pioneers have shaped the history of the tufting industry with their technological innovations for more than half a century. Their innovative spirits have forever changed the way the carpets are made.

Now, CMC has over 2,400 state-of-the-art tufting machines in operation across 37 countries! The majority of its business relationships are long-standing. CMC prides itself on the strength of those ties and believes that its emphasis on innovation, service, and integrity is the binding force that has kept those relationships thriving.

Markets served by CMC Hospitality Distinctive styles and discerning taste are the hallmark of this market segment and Card-Monroe's tufting machine innovations answer this call. Some in this market even ask CMC's customers for CMC-branded products by name.

When producing carpet for hotels, senior living, restaurants, or convention centres, CMC's tufting machines help manufacturers meet their customers' expectations.

Contract and commercial Styles are more important than ever in this market. From carpet tiles to patterned broadloom carpet, CMC tufting machines satisfy the demand for innovative styling in today's contract carpet market. With CMC's patented ColorPoint™ machines, carpet manufacturers are creating great looking work spaces in offices and commercial buildings across the globe.

Residential Whether, high-end residential or multi-family apartments, manufacturers can keep their costs down with unmatched speeds and performance of CMC tufting machines.

Manufacturers can combine a vast array of texture and colour options with different pile heights to create bold new carpet looks. CMC tufting machines can achieve cut-loop, high-low loop, and many other types of carpets desired by the residential market.

Turf CMC is the world leader in the manufacturing of tufting machines for synthetic sport or landscape turf. Its turf machines reach speeds unrivalled in the industry. While other machines operate in the range of 200-300 RPM, CMC's advanced turf operate at 600 RPM – even while tufting turf pile heights. This is as much as twice the speed of other conventional equipment, and that alone doubles productivity.

Rug Distinct styling is the hallmark of rugs, and with CMC's ColorPoint™ technology and Infinity Yarn Control™ rug patterns are limited only by the designer's imagination. The Infinity attachment provides complete control at each needle, enabling endless design freedom.

Automotive This market requires precision plus speed, and CMC's high speed cut pile machines – built with the world's most desirable gauge parts – allow manufacturers to meet the demands of their automotive customers and out-perform their competition.

Colorpoint™ machine CMC's patented ColorPoint™ tufting machine produces

CMC MAchine carpet that is more desirable and sophisticated – but with the style and agility of a tufting machine. It enables 100% fullgauge coverage since there is no buried yarn in the face of the carpet. This means manufacturers can produce lower weight, better-performing product constructions, with vivid colours, pinpoint stitch accuracy, unmatched detail, and enhanced product durability. Ÿ Pattern capability previously only available from a loom Ÿ 100% full gauge coverage with no buried ends Ÿ Precise single penetration colour placement Ÿ Remarkable ease of design Ÿ Unlimited variety of scale Ÿ Non-directional looks for carpet tile or broadloom Ÿ Produce unlimited patterns within the same colour combinations Ÿ Immediately alternate pattern colours without changing the creel High speed cut pile machine The high speed cut pile machine is available in 3/16, 5/32, 1/8, and 1/10 gauge. CMC's Concept 2003 takes high-speed cut pile to the next level, allowing manufacturers to tuft at speeds of up to 1,400 RPM while shifting the needle bar.

Concept 2003 along with PSP (Positive Stitch Placement) shifting, gives manufacturers the ability to create cut-pile constructions with better tuft distribution. Also included is a reliable, easy-to-use cutting system in the industry: the Advanced Cutting System II, which also enables manufacturers to create low, dense cut pile or high cut pile with more plush, softer hand constructions.

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

COLOURANT Limited

Cover 1

Lakshmi Card Clothing

A-3

Saurer Textiles Solutions Pvt. Ltd.

Cover 2

ATE Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

A-4

PIA Togo

Cover3

Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd.

A-5

Serai, India

Cover 4

TEXCON 2022

A-6

Lenzing Fibers India Private Ltd

A-1

Technical Textiles

A-7

Trutzschler India

A-2

ITMA 2023

A-8

Need of today and tomorrow