E journal jul aug 2015

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The Textile Association (India) is the foremost largest national textile professional body of India, striving for the growth of India's largest single Textile Industry and also largest in the world textiles. It is established in the year 1939 and now having more than 23000 strong memberships with 26 affiliated Units, spread throughout the length and breadth of the country. TAI publishes a prestigious bi-monthly peer reviewed Journal of the Textile Association since 1940. It is covered with Textile Science, Technology, Engineering, Management and Fashion. JTA is also available in digital on website.

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DYEING

PEER REVIEWED

Colouration of Wool Fibre with Natural Dyes M. D. Teli & Sanket P. Valia Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract Dyeing is a complex, specialised science. Nearly all dyestuffs are now produced from synthetic compounds. This means that costs have been greatly reduced and certain application and wear characteristics have been greatly enhanced. This paper reports the use of natural dyes like marigold, onion peels and hibiscus which were applied on wool fabric using mordants i.e. alum, ferrous sulphate and tartaric acid in combination. The various colour changes on wool were measured by computer colour matching software. The range of colour developed on dyed wool fabrics were evaluated in terms of (L*a*b*) CIELAB coordinates and the dye absorption on the wool was studied by using K/S values. The fastness properties of the dyed samples were found to be quite satisfactory. The fabric thus dyed can be used for apparel purpose. Keywords Extraction, Natural dye, Wool, Mordant, Marigold, Onion peels, Hibiscus

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019, India Tel.: +91-022-3361 extn. 2811. E-mail: mdt9pub@gmail.com July - August 2015

dyes. Recently, a number of commercial dyers and small textile export houses have started looking at the possibilities of using natural dyes for regular basis dyeing and printing of textiles to overcome environmental pollution caused by the synthetic dyes. Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic dyes. Presently there is an excessive use of synthetic dyes, estimated at around 10 x106 tons per annum, the production and application of which release vast amount of waste and unfixed colourants causing serious health hazards and disturbing the eco-balance of nature [4]. Nowadays, fortunately, there is an increasing awareness among people towards natural dyes. Natural dyes are preferred in developed countries, because they are non-allergic, non-carcinogenic and have lower toxicity and better biodegradability than the synthetic dyes [5]. In this paper, authors have studied the dyeing of wool fabric with some of the natural dyes like marigold, hibiscus and onion peels using two different set of mordants and studied their effect and fastness properties. 1.1. Marigold dye Marigold flower [Tagetes erecta L.], a major source of carotenoids and Lutein (refer Fig.1), is grown as a cut flower and in addition being grown for its medicinal values. Marigold flowers [Tagetes], which are yellow to orange red in colour, are a rich source of lutein, a carotenoid pigment. Nowadays, Lutein is becoming an increasingly popular active ingredient used in the food industry and textile colouration. This pigment has 73

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction The natural colourants that are safer and eco-friendly in nature are emerging globally, leaving synthetic colourants behind in the race. Natural dyes have many advantages over synthetic dyes [1]. Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather, wood as well as natural fibres like cotton, silk, wool and flax as major areas of application since ancient times. Natural dyes may have a wide range of shades and can be obtained from various parts of plants including leaves, seeds, roots, bark, flowers, fruit, etc. Since the advent of widely available and cheaper synthetic dyes in 1856 having moderate to excellent colour fastness properties, the use of natural dyes having poor to moderate wash and light fastness has declined to a great extent. However, recently there has been revival of the growing interest on the application of natural dyes on natural fibres due to worldwide environmental consciousness [2]. In many of the world's developing countries, natural dyes can offer not only rich and varied source of dye stuff, but also the possibility of an income through sustainable harvest and sale of these plants [3]. The use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some hazardous synthetic


DYEING acquired greater significance because of its excellent colour value. Although marigold flower extract has been used in veterinary feeds, the potential use of marigold as a natural textile colourant has not been exploited to its full extent. This is due to the lack of information on its safety, stability, and compatibility in textile colouration [6].

border, they need no further care after being transplanted, than cutting off the flower stem when done flowering. Some of the flowers are a little perfumed, but the vast majority has no fragrance at all [10]. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials Natural dyes, marigold, hibiscus and onion peels were supplied by Adiv Pure Natural, Mumbai. All the other chemicals and auxiliaries used for extraction and application were of laboratory grade and purchased from S.D. Fine Chemicals, Mumbai. RFD wool fabric of 60GSM was purchased from a local market, Mumbai.

Figure 1.1: Structure of lutein

1.2. Onion peels dye The dry outer skins of onions can be used for colouring natural textile materials. Red onion skins create a different range of colours. The process of achieving colour from onion skins is one of the easiest sources of natural colour. Onion skins are simple for a few reasons, they are easy to source and they are waste from food. The skin of the onion is inedible (Allium cepa) and it contains a dyestuff called pelargonidin (3, 5, 7, 4 tetrahydroxy anthocyanidin)

Figure 1.2: Structure of Pelargonidin

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Pelargonidin (refer Figure 1.2) has four hydroxyl groups all of which are auxochrome groups such as NH2, COOH. Consequently, pelargonidin exhibits good dyeing properties for the dyeing of wool, and so forth. As such, these four auxochrome groups form the stable complex compound which is best for wool dyeing [9]. 1.3. Hibiscus dye Hibiscus flowers usually only last for one day, opening in the morning and wilting late afternoon. To compensate for this the buds grow quickly and are opening all the time. The plants are propagated by seeds, or by dividing the roots, and should be planted in the border. If the seeds are sown early in the spring, they will frequently flower the first season and improve in size and beauty as the plant advances, for the first five years, while it still retains its noble appearance. Hibiscus flowers grow tall, and are best planted around the 74

2.2. Methods 2.2.1 Preparation of Alum mordant A 10% stock solution of mordant alum was made by dissolving 10gm of mordant powder in 100 ml of water. Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) is the mordant most frequently used by dyers for protein (animal) and cellulose fibres and fabrics. It improves light and wash fastness of all natural dyes and gives bright colours. 2.2.2 Preparation of Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Mordant A 3% stock solution of mordant FeSO4 was made by dissolving 3gm of mordant powder in 100ml of water. This is an optional mordant and is used as a colour changer. It has the added benefit of making naturally dyed colours more light and wash fast. It is more often used with cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, rayon and hemp and should be used with care on protein fibres as it can make them slightly hard or brittle. Iron shifts a colour to a deeper, darker shade. 2.2.3. Preparation of Tartaric Acid A 2% stock solution was prepared by dissolving 2 gm of dry powder in 100ml of solution with water. 2.2.4. Extraction of Marigold, turmeric, onion peels and hibiscus dye A 10% stock solution was prepared by boiling 10 gm of dry powder in 100 ml of water for 60 min. The extract was filtered made to 100 ml and used for dyeing. 2.2.5. Dyeing Process The mordanting of wool fabric was carried out in Rota dyer keeping the material to liquor ratio of 30:1. The fabrics were introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 600C for wool fabric and mordanting was continued for about 60 min. Mordanting is done by July - August 2015


DYEING following mordants: 1. Alum 20% 2. FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2% After mordanting the fabric was squeezed and dyed with 20%, 30% and 40% shades of marigold, turmeric, onion peels and hibiscus dye. All dyeing were carried out at 600C for 60 min. After dyeing the fabrics were squeezed, washed and dried. 3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Colour value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression; (1-R)² K/S= -----------2R Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on the fabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100white, 0- black), a* to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II method. A solution containing 5 g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The

samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in Rota machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the sample and staining on the undyed samples were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent). 3.3 Evaluation of Light fastness Dyed fabric was tested for colour fastness to light according to ISO 105/B02. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature 650C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were compared with the standard scale of blue wool (ratings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent). 4. Results and Discussion Dyeing of wool fabric with marigold using alum and ferrous sulphate as mordant has been carried out and results are summarized in Table 4.1. It has been observed that as the percentage shade increased, the K/ S values also increased. This is attributed to increase in concentration of dye in dye bath. The K/S values of FeSO4 mordanted and dyed sample were higher than those for alum indicating higher depth in shade. The FeSO4 mordanted sample was darker in the tone as their L* values were lower than L* values of alum mordanted and dyed sample. This indicated that the alum treated samples gave brighter shades as compared to the FeSO4 treated sample. The a* and b* values also increased as the percentage shade increased. Yellowish tone increased with increase in the concentration of the dye with alum mordanted sample and in

Sr.

Shade

Mordant

K/S

L*

a*

b*

No. (%) 1 2 3

20% 30% 40%

Colour Change Rating Wash Fastness

Light Fastness

Alum 20%

6.29

71.10

1.51

48.44

4

5

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

8.09

44.48

0.41

16.52

4-5

5

Alum 20%

10.1

73.66

0.86

50.13

5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

11.48

46.33

0.67

18.27

4-5

6

Alum 20%

11.27

73.54

0.24

49.42

5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

11.83

46.99

0.69

18.23

4-5

6

July - August 2015

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 4.1: K/S report and fastness properties of Marigold dyed wool with Alum (20%) & FeSO4 (3%) as mordant


DYEING case of FeSO4, grayish tone increased with increasing concentration of dye. The colour fastness to washing is good for both the mordants. It is very clear from the results given in (Table 4.1), that the light fastness of samples are very good (Grade 5, 6) in case of both the mordants. The results from Table 4.2 indicate that wool fabric can be dyed successfully with onion peels using alum and FeSO4 as mordant. It is seen that as the percentage shade increased the K/S values also increased in case of both the mordants. This is attributed to increase in concentration of dye in dye bath. The K/S values for both the mordants were more or less same for same percentage shade. The L* values of FeSO4 mordanted sample were slightly lower than L* values for alum. This indicated that alum treated sample gave slightly brighter shades. A greenish yellow tone is seen on the fabric which increased with increase in the concentration of the dye with alum mordanted sample and in case of FeSO4 brownish yellow tone increased with increasing concentration of dye. The a* and b* values also increased as the percentage shade increased. The colour fastnesses to washing of onion peels dyed samples with both mordants were excellent. It is very clear from the results given in (Table 4.2) that the light fastness of alum mordanted sample is fair but in case of FeSO4 mordant was a bit inferior. The samples

get faded on exposure to the light. Excellent wash fastness is due to strong dye fibre bond with the help of metal mordants. Wool fabric was also dyed with hibiscus dye using the two metal mordants as mentioned below in Table 4.3. It is seen that with increase in the percentage shade the K/S values also increased. As far as the K/S values were concerned those of FeSO4 were higher than those for alum indicating higher depth in shade. Alum mordanted sample were brighter in appearance than FeSO4 mordanted sample, which can be confirmed from the L* values given in the Table 3. Greenish Yellow tone is seen on the fabric dyed with hibiscus and mordanted with alum and in case of FeSO4, brownish yellow tone was seen. The a* and b* values also increased as the percentage of the dye in the dye bath increased. The colour fastnesses to washing of hibiscus dyed samples with both mordants were good. It is very clear from the results given in (Table 4.3) that the light fastness of alum mordanted sample is fair, but in case of FeSO4 mordant it was a bit inferior. The samples get slightly faded with the light in case of FeSO4 mordant. The mordants act as a bridge between the fibre and dye. Dye gets complexed with the mordant which is pre deposited on the fabric. Metal mordant alum gives much pronounced increase in K/S value as compared to FeSO4 mordant.

Table 4.2: K/S report and fastness properties of Onion Peels dyed wool fabric with Alum (20%) & FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr.

Shade

Mordant

K/S

L*

a*

b*

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

No. (%) 1

20%

2

30%

3

40%

Colour Change Rating Wash Fastness

Light Fastness

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2% Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2.84 2.85 3.35 3.66

69.98 63.60 72.32 63.94

-0.45 1.19 -2.77 0.81

28.36 19.60 29.73 23.11

5 5 5 5

4-5 4 4 3-4

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

4.58 4.06

74.51 64.38

-3.14 1.06

31.65 20.05

5 5

4 3-4

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July - August 2015


DYEING Table 4.3: K/S report and fastness properties of Hibiscus dyed wool with Alum (20%) & FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr.

Shade

Mordant

K/S

L*

a*

b*

No. (%)

3.

Light Fastness

20% Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

1.27 1.63

75.85 73.50

-3.64 -2.31

18.55 16.63

4-5 4-5

5 3

2

30% Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

1.75 1.90

76.17 73.42

-4.89 -2.40

18.89 15.87

4-5 4-5

5 3

3

40% Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2.25 2.34

76.03 73.45

-5.64 -2.94

20.02 16.36

4-5 4-5

5 3

References

2.

Wash Fastness

1

5. Conclusion Wool fabric was successfully dyed with marigold, onion and hibiscus dye using metal mordants alum and ferrous sulphate. The dyes used were natural and ecofriendly and gave very good shades which can be used for dyeing wool fabric for apparel purpose. All the dyes gave good washing fastness and fair light fastness properties.

1.

Colour Change Rating

Inayat A., Khan S.R., Waheed A. and Deeba F., Proc. Pakistan Acad. Sci., 47(3), 131-135, (2010). Samanta A.K., Agarwal P., Indian Journal of Fibre and textile Research, 34, 384-399, (2009). Taylor G.W., Review of progress in colouration, 53, (1986).

4. 5.

Jothi D, AUTEX Journal, 8(2), 49-53, (2008). Purohit A, Mallick S, Nayak A, Das N.B., Nanda B., Sahoo S.,Current. Science. 92(12), 1681-1682, (2007). 6. Jothi D., Extraction of natural dyes from African marigold flower (Tagetas Erecta L.) for textile colouration, textile engineering department, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. 7. http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/t/ turmer30.html 8. Nagpal M., Sood S., J Nat Sci Biol Med., 4 (1), 3-7, (2013). 9. Onion Skin chemistry: http://www.hindawi.com/ journals/chem/2013/685679/ 10. http://hibiscusflowers.exclusively-unique.com ❑ ❑ ❑

TIT 1966 - UMANG

Golden Jubilee Celebration TIT 1966 - UMANG (TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES - BHIWANI)

It is well known that there is a strong unmatched bonding amongst TITS 66 Umang, which is not seen among the ex-batches of TIT. Those TIT-66 batch friends are not aware about Golden Jubilee Meet at Udaipur they can be in touch with the administrator. For more details, please contact: 1. Mr. Arun Kamal Mittal Tel.: 0120-4901058 M.: +91-9810138547, +91-7838147261 E-mail: arun.k.mittal@gmail.com July - August 2015

2. Mr. Vinod Kumar Gupta M.: +91-9810027860 E mail: kumargvinod@yahoo.com

77

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Alumni (TIT 66 - UMANG), ex-students of Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani 1966 batch will be celebrating its Golden Jubilee during 18th to 20th March, 2016 (Friday-Sunday) at Udaipur to bring TITS 66- Umang closer to each other.


PEER REVIEWED

PRINTING

Traditional Printed and Resist Textiles of Gujarat an Overview Madhu Sharan*, Vandana Chauhan & Hinal Kaystha Department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda. Abstract India with its rich treasure of traditional textiles has textiles with unique characteristics for different regions. Gujarat has many traditional textiles to its credit in form of printed, painted and also resist textiles. This work was an attempt to gain in-depth knowledge of some of these traditional textiles by analyzing the artifacts in terms of origin, articles, fabric, colour, motifs and style of printing and literature support. The artifacts kept in the "Textile Art Museum", Department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda were used for the study. This detailed description will be of help to historians, fashion designers, students and researchers. Keywords Artifacts, Printed Textiles, Resist Textiles, Traditional

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction India is a land abundant in textile crafts that have lent themselves to the creative hands of the Indian craftsmen. It is the only country in the world with unbroken, living vibrant tradition of crafts. The aesthetics of each state in India reflect rich tradition, superb workmanship and unique cultural ethos. Today, the world is facing an unprecedented loss of valuable cultural heritage information due to several factors such as craftsmen turning away from these exquisite textiles due to lack of market, time consumption and return. If it continues, then there will be dearth or total extinction of the textiles. So it is crucial for cultural heritage information, in all its forms, to be preserved, valued and transmitted for the reference of the future generations. Knowledge dissemination of craft not only encourages the crafts, but also helps in preserving its specimens. Analytical data related to historical, technological and aesthetic aspects of crafts will be helpful in understanding the past, appreciating the present and utilizing it for future. When it comes to the printed and resist textiles, India has profound heritage, many of which are on the verge of extinction. Besides collection, display and preser*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Madhu Sharan, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, Vadodara 390002, Gujarat Email: madhusharan@yahoo.co.in 78

vation of notable artifacts documentation is essential. By documenting the artifacts in detail the knowledge of traditional textile can be disseminated to the future generation which may not have the privilege to see the artifacts physically and meet the artisan and appreciate it. Detailed study and analyses of the artifacts will be helpful to revive and cultivate the rare, original, extinct crafts as well as the one which is on verge of vanishing. Generally the references found about traditional artifacts are either through literature such as books in form of illustration or on display in museums or library. It is very difficult to come across actual artifact supported with the detailed theoretical information. With this view to widen the knowledge, specimens of traditional textiles from the Department of the Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda were selected. In this study each selected artifact was analyzed with respect to its characteristics details, regional names, identifying features such as its origin, shape, form, and significance and supported with data from the literature to give a detailed information of the specific traditional textile. 2. Materials and Methods The type of research was combination of descriptive as well as analytical. Method used for data procurement was observation method. The analysis of each artifact was supported by relevant literature. July - August 2015


PRINTING 3. Results The traditional textiles studied under printed textiles were - Rogan, Kalamkari, Mata ni Pachhedi and those under resist textiles were - Bandhani, Mud Printing, Patola. 3.1 Printed Textiles Printing is the process of applying colour to the fabric in definite pattern or design. Traditionally many printing methods were used in Gujarat some of which are practiced and appreciated till date [1].

on a slow fire. Resulting colour pastes are kept in earthen pots or plastic containers & mixed with water to keep them from drying. Then printer dips a thin iron rod into pot of coloured paste, takes pastes & places it on his left first. The cotton mulmul fabric is spread on his lap. Skillfully, he lifts the sticky paste in a thread like consistency, with the rod & paints the design on the cloth. Second technique is embedded in a thick residue called Rogan, obtained from casting hot safflower, castor or linseed oil in cold water. This paste is mixed with chalk powder, colour pigment & a binder agent to form a thick dye. While in Khadi the pattern is hand printed with small block of special pattern, in this ready paste is filled in the metal blocks which are hollow & pressed out the design area. Rogan printing is on the verge of extinction as only two families in Nirona village of Kutch and three families in Viramgam, Wadhawan and Ahmedabad are practicing this craft [6].

Figure 3.1: Classification of Traditional Textiles of Gujarat

3.1.1 Rogan Printing Rogan printing - is a conventional art of hand printed and painted technique influenced by Persian art. The word Rogan literally means oil based painting in Persia. Rogan printing is the art done by hand. For rogan printing paste is made by mixing natural colour, linseed or castor oil. It is applied on the fabric by hand using metal rod without aid of any machine.

Traditionally the floral, geometrical and calligraphy motifs were used for the art of rogan paintings. During ancient period, the calligraphy motifs were used in Persian alphabets. The bird motifs were used only by Hindu Khatri craftsmen in Ahmedabad. These motifs were used as all over pattern. Mainly two layouts were used for motif placement i.e. border and all over. The motifs painted by Hindu Khatri craftsmen were large bird motifs with broad outline. They were incorporated bigger bird motifs which were not seen in rogan painted product of Kutch [2]. 3.1.1.1 Rogan

Rogan is done by two techniques. First technique, Rogan paste is made from castor oil & natural dyes like mud, leaves, and plants pounded by hands & heated July - August 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Motifs in rogan were always had mirror image and significantly different than Khadi (done with metal blocks) which were more towards the nature. Rogan always had motifs painted in bold outlines with subdued base colours while Khadi had motifs printed intricately, more finely and with sharp edges. Khadi had been always done with gold and silver colours on dark coloured background.

Figure 3.2: Rogan Painted Sample 79


PRINTING Article : Rogan Textile Origin : Gujarat Description : Rogan painting is totally done by hand on cloth. The printer dips a thin iron rod into pot of coloured paste, takes pastes & places it on his left first. The cotton fabric is spread on his lap. Skillfully, he lifts the sticky paste in a thread like consistency, with the rod & paints the design on the cloth. The background of the artifact had navy blue colour. The field of the artifact had floral, leaves and bird motifs in yellow and orange colour. The border of the artifact was the combinations of several bands of interlace patterns in orange, yellow and light yellow. The border of the artifact created a scalloped effect. 3.1.1.2 Khadi Khadi is also known as Tinsel printing. Khadi was named because the impression or design is slightly elevated or raised. Khadi has motifs printed intricately, more finely and with sharp edges. Khadi is also done with different colours besides gold and silver. (2)

Figure 3.4: Khadi Printed Sample

Article : Khadi printed sample Origin : Gujarat Description : Khadi printing is done with metal blocks. While the Khadi is wet, gold or silver zari in powder form are sprinkled on the printing simultaneously by using the on cloth. The field of the sample was block (Khadi) printed all over with floral motifs in golden zari at half brick repeat on yellow background. The borders of the sample were also Khadi printed, had motifs flower creepers in scroll pattern. The triangular motifs were also printed just above the border with golden zari. 3.1.2 Kalamkari Kalamkari mainly used to describe cotton fabrics patterned through the medium of vegetable dyes by free hand painting with the aid of Kalam or pen and hand block printing. Even where the fabric is block printed, the Kalam is still used to draw finer details and for application of colours.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.3: Khadi Printed Odhani

Article : Odhani Origin : Gujarat Description : In Khadi the pattern is hand printed with small block of special pattern, in this ready paste is filled in the metal blocks which are hollow & pressed out the design area. The background of the odhani had red colour. Khadi motifs were hand block printed on the Odhani in white, yellow and green colour. The floral motifs were printed in tiny dots. The pallav of odhani had two broad bands, one with rhombus shape and another with small floral motifs.

Kalamkari of Gujarat is done using stark bold colours like red, black and white. Kalamkari of Gujarat is the Combination of block printing and hand painting. These kalamkaris are used as wall Hangings, Temple Canopies etc. Motifs used in Kalamkari are Meeera Bai, Shravan, Purvaj(ancestor) etc [1].

Texttreasure I have been impressed with the urgency of doing. Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Being willing is not enough; we must do. - Leonardo da Vinci

80

July - August 2015


PRINTING with an Ektara on her lap and bowl of poison in both the hands which was raised to her mouth. The background was painted with black colour. Strings of flowers were hanging from the top. Circular flowers and flower buds were surrounding her. Borders of flowers in scroll patterns were printed on the either side of Meerabai and the scallop shaped border was there over Meerabai. At the base of the Kalamkari was painted with scallops and flower in the middle of each scallop. The Kalamkari was surrounded by block printed borders from all four sides.

Article : Wall Hanging Origin : Gujarat Description : The kalamkari depicts the scene of journey of shravan with his parents towards pilgrimage in black colour. The centre motif shravan was hand painted lifting kavad (Two baskets tied on the either side of a pole with the help of the rope or cloth) on his right shoulder. In the left basket of the kavad was sitting shravan's father and his mother on the other side. Left side of the kalamkari palm tree was painted in black colour. On the right side of the kalamkari, temple of goddess was hand painted in black colour with temple tops, dhvaj and staircase. The back ground of kalamkari was painted in red colour. The diamond shaped border with a dot in centre of each was block printed in black colour on the four sides of the kalamkari.

3.1.3 Mata ni Pachhedi The Cloth of Goddess Mother, or Mata ni Pachedi or Mata no chandarvo is a very popular narrative painted - printed scroll from Gujarat. The pachedi had a distinct visual identity that was developed through the use of strong bold forms of Goddess as Mata Vahanvati, riding a vahan, ship was hand-painted in the centre. The pachedis are essentially an expression of the divine cosmic energy of the mother goddess and the unified manifestation of the creative and the destructive principles in her person. The distinctive feature of pachhedi was that it always painted and printed with stark colours such as blood red, black and white. Traditionally, the pictorial space of the temple cloths is divided into various registers.Each of registers is defined with the aid of borders patterned with the aid of borders patterned with geometric motifs, floral forms and figurative representations. These are still practiced by the Vaghri community, the wandering caste. Traditionally, the pictorial space of the temple cloths are divided into various registers, each of which is defined with the aid of borders patterned with the aid of borders patterned with geometric motifs, floral forms and figurative representations; Lord Krishna, the paniharin (women bearing water pots), the purvaj (ancestor) and mor (peacock). Pachedi is used as a canopy that forms a shrine, or is spread over altars or worn by the shaman while worshipping or in a trance.

Texttreasure Figure 3.5: Kalamkari from Gujarat

Article : Wall Hanging Origin : Gujarat Description : The centre field of the kalamkari had hand painted motif of Meerabai in a sitting position July - August 2015

Truth will win every argument if you stick with it for long enough. - Unknown author 81

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.5: Kalamkari from Gujarat


PRINTING

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.7: Mata ni Pachhedi from Gujarat

Article : Wall Hanging Origin : Gujarat Description : The Kalamkari was divided into total ten registers by block printed borders. The biggest and dominating section of the Kalamkari was the central field depicting Mata Vahanvati, Goddess riding on cock, with strings of flower in the background. Temple dome with parrots sitting on it was painted over goddess with strings of flowers and circular flower motifs in the background. Each of the section was painted with black background except the section at centre bottom. The upper sections of either side were depicting paniharis, below those sections galloping deer was painted with mangos. The third section on the right side human figure holding Damru was painted with mango and circular flower motif. Opposite of this section Lord Ram drawing bow and arrow was painted with a mango and two small circular flower motifs.The bottom two sections were depicting Durvasa Rishi. The bottom section of the central field had shells painted with red and black colour. The Kalamkari was surrounded by block printed border in scroll pattern.

Goddess Riding on a Rooster

Man playing Damru

Texttreasure "Successful and unsuccessful people do not vary greatly in their abilities. They vary in their desires to reach their potential." - John Maxwell Paniharins 82

July - August 2015


PRINTING 3.2.1.2 Tie - Dye of Gujarat These are the fabrics that results in interesting and colorful patterns. The technique of tying of cloth with thread and then dyeing is the simplest and perhaps the oldest form of creating patterns on a plain piece of cloth is known as tie and dye [4].

Lord Ram

Gharcholas and Bandhanis or chunnis were specialties of tie and dye craft of Gujarat. Designs were printed with geru paste on the fabric. Smaller designs were chosen for georgette, mulmul etc as intricate knots could be tied well. Twisted cotton thread of varying thickness was used for tying bandhani according to the intricacy of designs. Tie and dye involves repeated tying and dyeing with several colours. Dyeing proceeds from the lightest colours and followed by darker shades [4]. 3.2.1.3 Bandhani

Galloping Deer

Durvasa Rishi Figure 3.8: Motifs in Mata ni Pachhedi

3.2. Resist Textiles In resist-dyeing, the pattern is marked on to the cloth with a substance such as paste or wax. After dyeing and removal of the resist substance, the pattern is revealed in the original fabric colour. This process can be repeated several times. It can be done at fabric as well as yarn stage known as fabric resist and yarn resist respectively [3]. 3.2.1 Fabric Resist 3.2.1.1 Tie and dye 'Tie and dye' is the process of creating patterns on clothes or fabrics. It is dyeing natural July - August 2015

Article : Bandhani Textile Origin : Gujarat Description : Bandhanis were specialties of tie and dye craft of Gujarat. Twisted cotton thread of varying thickness was used for tying bandhani according to the intricacy of designs. Tie and dye involves repeated tying and dyeing with several colours. Dyeing proceeds from the lightest colours and followed by darker shades. The artifact was first tied according to the motif and first dyed into yellow colour, then followed by pink and maroon shades. It had tie and dyed background in circular form. The centre field was dyed in pink colour and had raslila motifs placed in circular form in white and orange colour. 3.2.1.4 Gharchola The entire tradition of tie and dye of Saurashtra was manifested in Gharcholas. The Gharcholas were char83

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.9: Bandhani Sample


PRINTING acterized by the squares known as chatkanas and each square had a motif within. The motifs were closely packed and tying was intricate. Formerly, in most expensive Gharchola, the chatkanas with saree were firstly woven into the fabric and then dyed. Such sarees were called zari chowk Gharchola. Generally the Gharcholas had red, green or yellow colour. The most common motifs used in Gujarat were rasmandal, bar bhat, bavanbhat, aaatha khand, sod khand, phool vel, pan vel, hathi vel and popat vel [5].

on reddish blue and Sabariya Garo.is white and red on reddish blue [6].

Figure 3.12: Sabariya Garo Saree

Figure 3.10: Gharchola

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Article : Gharchola Origin : Gujarat Description : The Gharchola had 13 bands across width of the saree and each band had 18 chatkanas i.e. squares. The motifs were tied into small knots and then dyed into yellow colour. Then bundi designs were tied and saree was finally dyed in to red colour. The motifs in Gharchola were comprised of hathi, phool, gol design, putli. Either ends of the saree had pan vel running across the width of the saree along with a parallel line created with small dots with tie and dye method.

Figure 3.11: Phool vel

3.2.2.1 Mud Printing Mud is used as resist material n Mud Printing. Blocks are prepared using nails for achieving the dotted design to this kind of printing. Gum, Chuno & Gugar are required in Mud printing besides Mud. Red, black, original white colour of the cloth and extra blue are used for Mud Printing. There are two types of Mud Prints; Jimi Garo and Sabariya Garo. Jimi Garo is red 84

Article : Mud Printed Saree Origin : Gujarat Description : The keri and small dotted motifs were resisted by printing with mud on the fabric. Then fabric was dyed into red colour. Then again motifs dyed into red again resisted and saree was dyed in to black colour. Then resist material was removed and motifs in red and white colour is seen. The pallav of the saree was divided in to two registers, a broad band and a thick band comprised of keri motifs. Between two registers of the saree and above the narrow band thin bands of parallel lines were added comprise of small dots and circles. The borders were made of small motifs like circles; dots arranged in zigzag pattern interlacing with one another with two parallel lines running on either sides of it. At the edge of the pallav design made of three small dots in triangular form was arrange parallel to pallav and across the width. This type of mud printing was known as sabariya garo. 3.2.2 Yarn Resist Yarn resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres prior to dyeing. The word ikat - a yarn resist dyeing technique derives from the Indonesian word mengikat means 'to tie'. Ikat involves the sequence of tying and dyeing sections of bundled yarn to a predetermined colour scheme prior to weaving. Thus the dye penetrates into the exposed sections while the tied sections remain without dyeing. There are two types of Ikat: Single Ikat - Only one set of yarns are tied and dyed, either warp or weft and Double Ikat warps and wefts both are tied and dyed according to the design. [7]. 3.2.2.1 Patolas The infamous patolas of Gujarat are known as double ikat. The technique involved in patola was the both July - August 2015


PRINTING

The patola weaving was always done on silk dyeing with bright and vibrant prominent colours like red, green, yellow. Bold grid based patterns combined with intricate geometrical, floral, and figurative motifs characterize Patola. Patola fabrics were distinguished and characterized by its design with fussy, step outline of figures produced on square base only. The patolas have a band of real gold zari in the pallav. This was the new addition to patolas as earlier they never had any zari. Motifs in patola were naari kunjar, kunjar, wagh, ghodo, pan, phoolwadi, popat, mor, keri, jad, putli, choklo bhaat, chhaudi, chokhandaa, chanda, raas etc [8].

tion and then dyed to get motifs in proper alignment and to match the corners of the motif. The patola sample had plain yellow background. The border of the sample had chockada motif with phool pan vel on the either side. The cross border of the patola had kunjar and popat motifs encased in a square. The yarns were first dyed in yellow colour followed by red and green, yellow and red colour. The cross border of the patola was accompanied by parallel bands on either side of it in white, maroon and red colour. Conclusion India is a land of rich traditional crafts. There are crafts which are contemporized or no longer practiced. Now - a -days it is difficult to find an artifact made with Traditional techniques. Today contemporary market is booming, easier & inexpensive to produce an artifact. This paper will assist reader in identifying the traditional textiles taken up for study. This data will be helpful to the researchers in the field of textiles to maintain, spread and retrieve the reliable data on traditional textiles. References 1.

2. 3.

4.

5. Figure 3.13 : Patola Sample 6.

7.

Figure 3.14: Popat and Kunjar Bhaat

Article : Shawl Origin : Gujarat Description : All the motifs were tied in 'juxta' posiJuly - August 2015

8.

Shaik S. S. & Begum S., Traditional Textiles, (State Institute of Vocational Education Directorate of Intermediate Education, Govt. of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad), 2005, 26 - 28. Pandya A. and Vishwakarma A., Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 9(4), 644 - 647, (2010). Malhotra Neetu. (2011). Commited to Colours. Retrieved 2013, from fibre2fashion: http:// www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/33/3248/committed-to-colours1.asp Gaur Palak. (2011). Tie & Dye - The Evergreen Art. Retrieved 2013, from fibre2fashion: http:// www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/34/3382/tieand-dye-the-evergreen-art1.asp Chauhan V., A Comparative Study of Tie and Dye of Gujarat and Rajasthan, (Unpublished Masters Dissertation, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Faculty of Home Science, Vadodara, The M. S. University of Baroda, Vadodara), 1984. Ghia A., A Study of Different Hand Printing Methods Done on Sarees in Gujarat, (Unpublished Masters Dissertation, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Faculty of Home Science, Vadodara, The M. S. University of Baroda, Vadodara), 1979. Bhatt Isha & Jain Sangeeta. (2012). Ikat - A Textile Glory . Retrieved 2013, from fibre2fashion: http:// www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/43/4272/ikat-atextile-glory1.asp Pandit S., A Study of the Hand Woven Sarees Produced in the State of Gujarat, (Unpublished Masters Dissertation, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Faculty of Home Science, Vadodara, The M. S. University of Baroda, Vadodara), 1975.

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the warp and weft yarns were tied together in areas where the original was to be retained and then dyed. The famous patolas weaving was known for its colourful and beautiful patterns. Tying of yarns was continuing from the lighter shade to darker shade until the final pattern was dyed on the unwoven thread. The warp for the border and field were prepared separately. Weft was treated similar way so that while weaving the weft was woven proper into warp with extreme precision and dexterity. Thus the desired motifs and figures were obtained by arranging them into 'Juxta Position' of similarly dyed shades on equal lengths of warps and wefts and interlacing.


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FINISHING

Silicone Finish for Enhancing Properties of Polyester Mosmi Rupareliya1, Namrita Kola1 & Ashutosh Mairal2* 1 P.G. Department of Home Science, Sardar Patel University, Vallabh Vidyanagar, 2 Department of Textile Chemistry, M. S. University of Baroda Abstract Polyester is, in manufacturing terms the most successful synthetic fiber in the world. This fiber is hydrophobic and non absorbent without chemical modification. This lack of absorbency limits the comfort property and dye ability. In this paper, the physical properties of polyester fabrics after silicone finish (macro amino silicone, micro amino silicone and Lab prepared silicone finish) were investigated. Results were monitored by using standard testing methods, and it showed that all silicone finishes improved softness, crease recovery angle, wettability, tensile strength and dye ability of the fabric. The color strength of the dyed samples increased with the lab prepared finished fabric. Keywords Dye ability, Physical property, Polyester, Silicone finish

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Polyester is an inexpensive fiber with a unique set of desirable properties which have made it useful in a wide range of end-use applications. The fiber is hydrophobic and non absorbent without chemical modification. This lack of absorbency limits the comfort of polyester fabrics. Due to its hydrophobicity and high crystallinity, polyester is difficult to dye and special dyes and dying techniques must be used [1]. The dye ability of polyester can be improved by special finishes also. Silicone chemicals are eco-friendly and do not have any adverse effect on the environment. They are mainly recognized in textile industry as softeners, wetting agents and water repellents. To improve various properties on substrate the poly siloxanes are modified by substituting the organic group (R) on the silicone backbone. Some modified silicones commonly used are amino modified silicones which impart excellent surface softness and bounciness to the fabrics, carboxy modified silicones impart a silky finish along with bounciness and bulkiness to the fibre and are applicable on nylon and polyester fibers. Hydroxyl modified silicones impart an elastomeric feel to the fibre. Epoxy modified silicone emulsion impart a durable and soft finish to the fabric, and have a strong attrac*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. A. K. Mairal Department of Textile Chemistry, Faculty of Technology & Eng. M. S. University of Baroda, Email: drakmll@yahoo.co.in 86

tion toward the fabric and form bonds, giving a durable finish. Acrylic modified silicones impart a durable finish with smooth handle, and form a film on the fabric surface and produce good drape on the fabric, producing the desired effect [2]. The treatment with reactive silicone softener significantly increases the flammability of polyester nonwoven and polyester mat materials. The treated samples show much higher weight loss and burning area than those that are untreated, because silicone softeners decomposes to produce inert inorganic silicon dioxide fiber during the burning process which serves as an inert support for the melted polyester[3]. Functionally modified silicone finish when applied on polyester fabric is expected to impart durable softness, improvement in crease recovery angle, wettability, tensile strength and dye ability. In the study silicones are applied to polyester fabric through macro amino silicone, micro amino silicone and epoxy based silicone (lab prepared) to improve physical properties. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 100 % polyester fabric for the study was procured from local market of Anand. Silicone finishes: commercial macro amino silicone and micro amino silicone were procured from M/s. Resil Chemicals Pvt. Ltd., commercial dyes were used (specifications are given in Table 2.1) [4,5] and epoxy based silicone was prepared in the laboratory. July - August 2015


FINISHING Table 2.1: Specification of commercial dyes

Chemical formula

Mw (g/mol)

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

269.30

C.I. Direct Yellow 50

956.81

2.2 Methods 2.2.1 The procured polyester fabric was further thoroughly scoured by using standard method and air dried. 2.2.2 Identification (AATCC test method 20-1976) Confirmation of the fiber type was done through microscopic analysis, burning test and chemical solubility test [6]. 2.2.3 Determination of preliminary data Preliminary data including fabric count (the number of yarns/inch) helped to describe the tightness of the weave, structure (weave), thickness, weight per unit area, fabric width were determined using standard methods [7] and are given in Table-2.2

Fabric count Structure Thickness (yarns/inch) (weave) (mm)

Weight per Fabric unit area width (gms/sq.mt.) (cm)

Warp Weft Polyester

112

90

Plain

0.17

84

90

2.2.4 Preparation and application of finish Procured commercial silicone finishes: macro amino silicone (F1) and micro amino silicone (F2). Epoxide based silicone finish (F3) was prepared in the laboratory under controlled conditions using laboratory grade reagents. The finish (50g/l) was prepared as per recipe given in Table 2.3, polyester fabric was finished by pad (2min)-dry (10 min) (4 times) iron-cure, (3 minutes at 1100C temperature) sequence. Table 2.3: Recipe for finish Epoxide (with known molecular weight) Tri Methyl Silyl Chloride Cetyl Tri-methyl Ammonium Bromide Tri Ethyl Amine Solubilizing agents: (Poly Ethylene Glycol, Benzene, Methanol, Water) July - August 2015

C.I. Disperse yellow 3

2%

Cetamol ws

1g/l

Acetic Acid

2g/l

Sodium alginate

2g/l

Total Volume

50 g/l

For Reduction clearing treatment

Table 2.2: Preliminary data of fabric Fabric

Table 2.4: Recipe for Disperse dye

Optimum quantity (Total volume 50 gpl, padding)

Sodium hydroxide(NaOH)

2g/l

Sodium hydro sulphite

4g/l

Temperature

600C

Time

10 min Table 2.5: Recipe for Direct dye

C.I. Direct yellow 50

1%

Sodium chloride (NaCl) o. w. f.

10%

M. L. R.

1:50

Total dyeing time

45 min

Temperature

98 -1000C

2.2.6 Evaluation of fabric properties Softness of the fabric samples was determined through scoring test. A panel of 15 judges was asked to feel the fabric samples between their fingers and thumb and give a numerical score between 1 to 10, where 1 was least soft and 10 was for maximum softness. Average score for each fabric sample was calculated. Crease recovery angle (AATCC test method 66-1975), 87

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Name

2.2.5 Dyeing The finished and unfinished samples were dyed with disperse dye and direct dyes. Thermosol process for dyeing polyester with disperse dye was used. The process involves padding on the disperse dye together with auxiliaries that minimize migration, drying, then fixing the dye by heating to a high temperatures about 2200C for 2 min. [8] After dyeing reduction clearing treatment was done (Recipe given in Table 2.4) and washed with non ionic detergent. The exhaustion dyeing method was used for dyeing polyester with direct dye. The finished and unfinished fabrics were entered into the dye bath at 40 to 500C for 15 min, then NaCl was added and temperature was raised to 900-1000C for 30 min, the samples were then dried and washed with non-ionic detergent. [9] (Recipe given in Table 2.5)


FINISHING wettability (AATCC test method 39-1975, tensile strength (ASTM: D 1682-64) [7] and dye ability [10, 11] of the untreated and treated fabrics with F1, F2, and F3 were determined using standard test methods. The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Hunterlab ColorFlex EZ spectrophotometer, with 450/00 geometry. The K/S values were determined using expression: K/S

(1-R) 2 = ----------2R

Where, R is the Reflectance at complete opacity, K is the Absorption Coefficient and S is the Scattering Coefficient. Higher the K/S value, higher the depth of colour on the fabric. Dyed samples were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a*and b*) values using Hunterlab colour Flex EZ spectrophotometer. L* corresponds to the brightness (100 represents white, 0 represent black), a* to the red-green coordinate (+ve represents red, -ve represent green) and b*to the yellow-blue coordinate (+ve represents yellow, -ve represent blue). As a whole, a combination of all these factors enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Effect on softness of fabric The score of softness (Table 3.1) for untreated polyester (F0) was 5.3, highest score of softness was for micro amino silicone finished fabric (F2) which was 7.7; for lab prepared finish (F3) was 7.1 and for macro amino silicone finished fabric (F1) was 6.9. Thus, it can be concluded that silicone finishes improve softness of fabrics. Amongst all these three silicone finishes used in the study, maximum softness was ob-

tained with micro amino silicone followed by lab prepared silicone finish which was followed by macro amino silicone finish. 3.2 Effect on crease recovery angle The crease recovery angle of all the samples was determined, which is presented in Table 3.1. There has been significant improvement in crease recovery of all treated samples. The crease recovery angle, of face as well as back of all silicone finished samples was more in comparison of unfinished fabric. The crease recovery of commercial and lab prepared finished samples was almost similar. 3.3 Effect on wettability of fabric The absorbency of textiles can be judged by determining the wetting time of textiles. The wetting time of all the samples has been tabulated in Table 3.1, Comparing the unfinished samples with the finish samples, a wide change in wetting time has been observed, the wetting time of untreated samples was 28.13 s, which was reduced to an approximate of 7.76 s for lab finished samples. This shows very strong and positive change in the absorbency property of polyester, which adds to the comfort factor and better dye ability of polyester. 3.4 Effect on tensile strength Elongation and load of warp and weft have been presented in Table 3.2. In warp direction there is minor increase in tensile strength of lab prepared finish which is a good indicator for a finish. In the case of commercial finishes there is decrease in strength of the warp yarns. In the weft directions, the strength has decreased in all finished samples. Warp and weft elongation has decreased for samples finished with F1 and F2 while warp elongation of lab finished sample has improved while weft elongation has decreased.

Table 3.1: Preliminary properties of untreated and treated fabric

Treated

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Polyester

88

Untreated (F0) Macro amino silicone finish (F1) Micro amino siliconefinish (F2) Lab prepared silicone finish (F3)

Softness

Crease Recovery (Degrees)

Wetting time (s) Increase/ decrease

(score)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Warp Weft Weft

Face

Back Face

5.30

17.60

20.30 21.60 20.30

28.13

-

6.90

19.00

22.60 22.30 21.00

37.69

decrease

7.70

20.60

24.30 23.60 22.30

36.10

decrease

7.10

18.60

20.70 23.00 22.60

7.76

increase

in wettability Back

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FINISHING

Table 3.2: Preliminary properties of untreated and treated fabric Polyester

Tensile Strength (Elongation at break) Warp Load (kg)

Elongation Load Elongation (mm) (kg) (mm)

13.86

19.53

12.56 29.62

Macro amino silicone finish (F1) 13.13

18.16

10.27 28.80

Micro amino silicone finish (F2) 13.33

18.56

9.95

Lab prepared silicone finish (F3) 13.96

20.58

10.62 29.26

Untreated (F0)

Treated

Weft

29.02

3.6 Effect on Dyeing: Colour value by reflectance method In case of dyeing polyester with disperse dye, the K/ S value of untreated and lab prepared finish sample was higher than commercial finished sample, the L* value of untreated and treated fabrics is almost same, all the samples lie in the zone of -a* and +b*. It is clear from table no. 3.3 that the commercial finishes have resisted the absorbance of disperse dye, and the lab prepared finish does not inhibit the absorbance of disperse dye. In case of dyeing of polyester with direct dye the untreated sample (F0), macro amino silicone finished (F1) and micro amino silicone finished (F2) samples did not pick up the direct dye. The K/S value of lab prepared silicone finish sample (F3) is highest. The sample with finish F3 show positive value of b*, this indicates presence of yellow color. Thus it can be stated that the presence of epoxy based silicone finish prepared in the laboratory has influence the absorption of direct dye on polyester fabric. Thus silicone finishes when applied on fabric gets delivered on the fiber surface. The finishes droplets breakup and form a thin film on the fiber surface which help in reducing friction between fibers and improving fiber mobility and also improving softness, crease recovery angle and wettability of polyester. The lab prepared epoxy based silicone finish attracts the direct dye in the dye bath on the fabric and there may be possibility of the dye bonding with the finish.

Table 3.3: Colour strength of undyed and dyed fabric Polyester

C.I. Disperse yellow 3

C.I. Direct yellow 50

K/S

K/S

L*

a*

b*

L*

a*

b*

Untreated(F0) 13.50 68.79 -0.90 65.44 1.73

76.23 2.81 -7.73

Macro amino silicone finish (F1) 10.38 69.31 2.65

59.02 1.86

75.17 0.89 -1.74

Micro amino silicone finish (F2) 12.17 68.87 -1.73 62.24 2.02

73.88 2.39 -1.92

Lab prepared silicone finish (F3) 13.30 69.43 -0.92 66.15 4.05

69.43 1.14 32.13

4. Conclusion Silicone finish, especially macro amino silicone, micro amino silicone and epoxy based silicone have shown enormous improvement in the physical properties of polyester fabric especially softness and crease recovery. The epoxy based silicone finish improved the wettability and warp tensile strength of polyester fabric. In case of dye ability, the fabric dyed with disperse dye was successfully carried out using commercial finish and lab prepared finish. The dyed fabrics displayed good colour strength; when fabric was dyed with direct dye. It shows possibility of dyeing polyester when finished with lab prepared epoxy based silicone. 5. Acknowledgements The authors are thankful to UGC, New Delhi (Meritorious fellowship) for Ph.D Research and Special thanks to M/S Resil Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. for providing free samples of commercial finishes. References 1. Needles H. L., 'Textile fibers, dyes, finishes, and processes', Noyes Publications, New Jersey, pp. 83,195, (1986). 2. Menezes E. and Korde S., Colorage, 48, (12), 31-36, (2001). 3. Drews M., National Textile Center Annual Report No: C06CL01, pp.1, (2007). 4. h t t p : / / w w w . c h e m i c a l b o o k . c o m / C h e m i c a l ProductProperty_EN_CB4455190.htm 5. h t t p : / / w w w. w o r l d d y e v a r i e t y. c o m / d i s p e r s e _ d y e s / disperse.yellow3.html 6. AATCC Technical Manual, 52, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists, 57-72, 258, 265, 345, (1976). 7. Booth, J. E. Principles of Textiles Testing, CBS Publishers and Distributors, New Delhi, 262,263, 282-286, (1996). 8. Shenai. V. A., 'Technology of textile processing', Technology of dyeing), 4, Sevak Publications, Bombay, 359- 367(1994). 9. Trotman E. R., Dyeing and chemicals Technology of Textile Fibers, Fifth edition, 444- 445, (1975). 10. Teli M. D.et al, Journal of the Textile Association, 73, (4), 228229, (2012). 11. Saravanan P. and Chandramohan G., Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 1, (3), 271, (2011).

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Overall the changes have been very minor so it can be said that the finishes do not have any adverse effect on the tensile strength of polyester.


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Anti-Static and Functional Properties of Asminosilsesquioxane Oligomer Treated and Dyed Fabrics O.A. Hakeim1, M.M. El Zawahry1, Nermin M. Aly2, N.S. El-Hawary1, H.A. Diab3 & Ali Marwa A.2* 1 Dyeing, Printing and Textile Auxiliaries Dept., Textile Research Division, National Research Centre 2 Spinning and Weaving Engineering Dept., Textile Research Division, National Research Centre 3 Textile Technology Dept., Faculty of Industrial Education, Beni-Suef University. Abstract Investigation of the electrostatic properties of textile materials is of major importance for evaluating the physiological comfort of fabrics especially with synthetic fibers. Static electricity is related to the inability of the textile material to dissipate generated and accumulated charges, which may lead to feeling uncomfortable or sometimes leads to dangerous electrical shocks. Antistatic finishes are used to reduce electrostatic charges build up on fabric's surface. In the present work, plain woven fabrics produced from wool, polyester materials and their blend were subjected to antistatic pretreatment using Aminopropylsilsesquioxanevinyl-sesquioxane copolymer (APSV) at different concentrations, followed by dyeing with acid dyes. Static charges on the fabrics surface as well as the physical and mechanical properties were evaluated before and after the dyeing process. ANOVA test was used for analysis of the experimental results at 5% level of significance. The results demonstrated that, the pretreatment using APSV enhanced the color strength of acid dye stuffs regardless the type of fiber. The yarn materials, fabric cover factor and treatment had a high significant effect on the antistatic properties and the functional properties of the fabrics. The polyester fabrics treated with 7.5% APSV and the untreated polyester dyed with C.I. Acid Yellow 117 showed improved performance in reducing static charges build up.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Antistatic Finishing, Dyeing, Functional Properties, Polyester, Wool.

1. Introduction Static charge build-up is an inverse function of a fabric's absorbency. The results are quite noticeable, which includes potentially dangerous electrical shocks which can cause decreases in productivity, machinery jams, fires, and explosions. It is caused either by friction between two surfaces (Triboelectrification) or by proximity to an electrostatic field (Induction charging). Figure 1.1 shows Triboelectric charging (a transfer of electrons) occurs when two materials are in contact and then separated in which one material acquires an excess of negative ions and the other acquires an excess of positive ions. Figure 1.2 shows friction, pressure and separation which are the major causes of *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Ali Marwa A., Spinning and Weaving Engineering Dept., Textile Research Division, National Research Centre, 33 El Bohouth st. (former El Tahrir st.), Dokki, Giza, Egypt - 12622. Email : maroatf@yahoo.com 90

industrial static electricity. Static electricity is the imbalance of positive and negative charges [1-5].

Figure 1.1: Triboelectric charging [1]

Figure 1.2: Friction, pressure and separation [1] July - August 2015


FINISHING

Two major properties that determine the physiological comfort of a fabric are breathability and static charge (triboelectric) susceptibility [1]. Textile fabrics are always in contact with the parts of machine devices during the manufacturing process and with human bodies during use [9]. Static electricity causes severe problems in many areas of the textile industry such as in Carding, Warping, Beaming and Sizing, Creels, Stenter "A" frame delivery, Inspection machines and winders. The textile processes work on high-speed machines; this becomes complicated for manmade fibers. Despite its negatives attributes, textile static is used in some manufacturing processes such as flocking, selected nonwoven fabrics and in electrets filters to assist in the absorption of airborne dust [10, 11]. The porosity of fabrics has very big influence on the shielding factor. Lesser are the pores of the fabric, bigger is weft densities of the fabrics and lesser are values of electrostatic field strength [12]. Static charges usually build up in synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester because they absorb little water (hydrophobic fibers). Cellulosic fibers have higher moisture content to carry away static charges [11, 13]. Although wool is a hydrophilic fiber, wool fabric often is highly charged caused by the strong friction between the overlapping protein scales on its surface that enables foreign matter to work its way out of the fleece. Woolen fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in damp weather, it is wrinkle resistant, water repellent, flame resistant, resilient, dye well and doesn't melt [3, 14-16]. Polyester is the most commonly used synthetic fiber. It has many advantages as wrinkle resistant, strong, resists damage, abrasion, weather conditions, moths and most strong chemicals. It is often July - August 2015

blended with other fibers to get the best of both worlds [14, 17, and 18]. Investigations in the field of static electricity have led to three main types of measurements; One is to measure the surface resistivity (voltage) of textile materials, the second is to measure the charge built up on a person or the electrical capacitance of a body, and the third is to measure the energy required to ignite flammable vapors and gases [19]. There are several ways to reduce electrical charge in clothing and its induced charge on the body. One is to apply an antistatic agent to the fiber surface, and the second is to disperse conducting or antistatic particles within the fiber and a third is to incorporate metallic or highly conductive fibers into the yarns. Antistatic agents are the chemicals applied to the surface of the yarn or fabric to control the accumulation of the static electric charges by increasing the conductivity of the fiber surface and reducing the frictional forces through lubrication. It is mostly done by attracting moisture to the fiber surface and so increases the fiber's conductive properties [3, 19]. Antistatic treatment has been developed on polyester fabrics by many researchers. The presence of hydroxyl functional groups facilitated its crosslinking with amino groups, hygroscopic salts and some other compounds to increase the conductivity of the fiber surface and thus reducing the accumulated charges on polyester fabrics [20-22]. Metal salt based antistatic finishes used for treating polyester in order to increase the conductivity of the fiber surface was investigated [20]. Recently, antistatic finishing of textiles using nanotechnology has been reported. Nano-size zinc oxide [23] and nano-size antimony-doped tin oxide (ATO) [24] could impart antistatic properties to synthetic fibers. TiO2, ZnO and ATO provide antistatic effects because they are electrically conductive material. Such materials help to effectively dissipate the static charges which are accumulated on the fiber surface. Water-borne silsesquioxane oligomers (see Figure 1.3) act as primers for metals, additives for acrylic latex sealants and as coupling agents for siliceous surfaces. They offer both organic group and silanol functionality. These amphoteric materials are stable in water solutions and unlike conventional coupling agents, have very low Volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Aminopropylsilsesquioxane oligomer-vinylsesquioxane copolymer (APSV) is a high molecular weight amino functional silicone with reactive silanol 91

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Materials are divided into two basic groups: conductors and insulators and when surfaces come into contact with one another, they exchange electrons [1,6]. The Triboelectric Series is a list of materials, showing which have a greater tendency to become positive (+) and which have a greater tendency to become negative (-). Materials that gain a positive (+) electrical charges and are good at giving up electrons are; Dry human skin, Hair, Rabbit fur, Cat fur, Glass, Lead, Aluminum, Wool, and Nylon .Whereas Silk, Paper and Cotton are at the other end of the scale and are bad at giving up electrons. Conversely, materials that gain a negative (-) electrical charges are; Wood, Hard rubber, Nickel, Copper, Gold, Platinum, Polyester, Styrene foam, Polyethylene, Vinyl (PVC), Teflon and Steel [7, 8].


FINISHING and amino functional group. It can readily form a stable polymer network because of its high aqueous solubility in addition to the presence of amino group. It shows a very unique combination of properties, unmatched by other polymeric systems because they form a very important bridge between organic and inorganic polymer chemistry [25].

without additional purification. Marlipal®13/80, nonionic surfactant, C13-alcohol polyethylene glycol ether (8 EO) was procured by SASOL Germany GmbH. All other chemical reagents were of laboratory grade. The dyes used in this work were C.I. Acid Yellow 117 and C.I. Acid Red 249. These dyes (see Figure 2.1) were kindly supplied by Ciba-Egypt and were used as received.

Figure 1.3 Water-borne silsesquioxane oligomers.

Figure 2.1: Structure of the acid dyes used in the study.

The aim of the present work is to investigate the electrostatic properties of plain woven fabrics produced from wool and polyester fibers and their blend before and after treating with antistatic finishes (Aminopropylsilsesquioxane oligomer) followed by dyeing. In addition to that we aim to examine their physical and mechanical properties, to evaluate their

2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Alkaline Pretreatment of Polyester Prior to Antistatic Application The adhesion improvement of APSV to polyester is performed by an alkaline pre-treatment in water solution containing 5 g/l of KOH for 30 min at 90°C with

Table 2.1: Specifications of the produced fabrics.

Sample

Yarn Material

Yarn Count (Ne) Weaving

No. of

No. of

ID

Warp

Warp

Ends/ cm

Picks/ cm

Weft

Weft

Structure

Fabric

Weight Thickness (g/m2)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Fabric (mm)

W

100% Wool

24\2

24\2

Plain 1\1

87

66

200

0.651

P

100% Polyester

30\2

30\2

Plain 1\1

144

107

173

0.325

PW

Wool 45%

30\2

30\2

Plain 1\1

145

160

180

0.371

Polyester 55%

functional properties, seeking ways for reducing and dissipating the accumulated static charges on the fabrics and improving their performance.

a liquor ratio 1:25. Subsequently, the samples were rinsed twice in cold tap water and then dried at room temperature (RT).

2. Experimental 2.1. Materials Three woven fabrics were procured with different yarn materials; wool, polyester and wool/polyester blended fabric weaved with plain 1/1 structure. The fabrics were manufactured at Misr Spinning and Weaving Company in El-Mahalla El-Kubra, Egypt. The specifications of the fabrics are illustrated in Table 2.1. Aminopropylsilsesquioxane-vinyl-sesquioxane copolymer oligomer (APSV); 25-28% in water, viscosity 310 cps purchased from ABCR, Germany and is used

2.2.2. Fabrics Treatment with APSV The fabrics were padded with APSV using the paddry-cure method. The pre-treatment bath was prepared by adding various concentrations of APSV (viz.10, 50, 75 and100 g/l) for wool fabric and its blend and different concentrations of APSV (viz. 25, 50, 75 and100 g/l) for treatment of polyester fabric with 1g/l of nonionic surfactant (Marlipal® 13/80) at 80-100% pick up with a liquor ratio 1:50 using a laboratory padding machine. The pH of the pretreatment path was 11. The padded fabrics were air died at RT till about 10-20%

92

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FINISHING residual humidity, and then cured by thermo fixation into an automatic thermostatic (A Labcoater, Switzerland) at 130°C for 20 min. The fixed fabrics were washed by soaping with 2g/l of Marlipal® in at 60°C for 15 min, followed by rinsing thoroughly with hot water and finally with cold water, then air dried at RT. 2.2.3. Dyeing Process The untreated and treated polyester, wool and wool/ polyester samples were dyed with acid dyes using liquor ratios 1:50, shades 2% owf, ammonium sulphate 5% owf at pH 4 (adjusted with dilute acetic acid), for 90 min at temperature 100°C using IR Dyeing machine (SR.No.IN-666061A), Mumbai, India. Dyeing was started first at 40°C and the temperature then raised to 100°C over 45 min. Dyeing was continued at the desired temperature for a further 45 min (90 min total dyeing time). Finally, the dyed samples were rinsed with tap water, followed by soaping in a mixture of 2g/l nonionic detergent using a liquor ratio of 1:50 at 60°C for 30 min, rinsed with water and air-dried. 2.3. Testing and Analysis The physical and mechanical tests were performed on the fabric samples before and after applying the chemical treatments and dyeing to determine and evaluate their functional properties. The tests were conducted on all samples after conditioning for 24 hours under the standard atmospheric conditions (20±2°C, 65±2% RH).

Table 2.2: Frictional-charge classification [26] Frictional-Charge Electrostatic Grade Classification (Volt, V) Knitted / Woven Warp/ Filling V<100

3

Excellent

100<V>500

2

good

500<V>1000

1

Fair

2.3.2. Fabrics Characterization Tests The tests were, a- Mass per unit area (weight) according to ASTM-D3776. b- Thickness of fabrics according to ASTMD1777. c- Tensile strength and Elongation at break of fabrics according to ASTM-D5035. d- Air Permeability according to ASTM-D737. e- Water Permeability according to ASTM-D461. f- Stiffness of fabrics according to ASTM-D1388. g- Abrasion Resistance of fabrics according to ASTM-D4158. Abrasion Resistance was evaluated by determining the fabric weight loss (%) after a number of abrasion cycles at which fabric tear occurred. It was calculated using the equation as follows, Weight loss (%) = (W2/W1) x100 …..(1)

July - August 2015

Where, W1 and W2 are the weight of specimen before and after applying test respectively. Fabrics Cover Factor (K) was calculated to indicate the extent to which the area of fabric is covered by one set of yarns. It was calculated using the equation as follows: K = n/VN . VN .....(2) Where, K is the cover factor, n is the no. of yarns/inch and N is the yarn count. 2.3.3. Color Measurements The relative color strength of undyed and dyed untreated and treated polyester, wool and wool/polyester fabrics expressed as K/S, where K and S are the absorption and scattering coefficients, respectively. It was measured by the light reflectance technique using a spectrophotometer (Hunter Lab Ultra Scan® PRO Spectrophotometer (USA) interfaced with a personal computer) and the Kubelka-Munk equation [28] as follows: 93

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3.1. Static Charge Test Electrostatic properties of the fabrics were determined by measuring the surface resistance of the fabrics before and after applying the chemical treatments and dyeing. The test was conducted on fabric specimen size (5x8 cm) and average of 10 readings for each sample was taken in both of the warp and weft directions of the fabrics. The test method depends on measuring the charge generated (voltage) due to rubbing between two different materials for 12 times, one is the material needed to measure its static charge and the other one is a neutral material like cotton [26,27]. The test was performed using the electrostatic field measuring device Potentiometer, model KS-525 (Kasuga Denki, Inc., Tokyo, Japan) with a range of (0.5-100 kv). There are three grades for evaluating the static electricity on the surface of various materials as shown in Table 2.2.


FINISHING ( 1-R ) 2 K/S = ----------- ..... (3) 2R 2.3.4. Fastness Testing Fastness testing for the dyed untreated and treated polyester, wool and wool/polyester samples were tested according to ISO standard methods. The specific tests were: ISO 105-C02 (1989), Color fastness to washing; and ISO 105-BO2 (2001) for fastness to light (Xenon lamp).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3.5. Statistical Analysis The tests results were statistically analyzed using Twoway analysis of variance (ANOVA) test by using the SPSS software, to determine the influence of the variables on the fabrics properties. The test was performed for all the fabric samples at a level of significance (P # 0.05). 3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Effect of Varying the Concentration of APSV on the Color Strength and Fastness Properties of Acid Dyed Fabrics In this respect, aminopropylsilsesquioxane-vinylsesquioxane (APSV) copolymer was used as a cationizating agent of wool, wool/polyester and polyester, using the pad-dry-cure method. The dyeing with acid dye obtained on APSV deposited polyester fibers samples are even, independent on earlier alkaline solution pretreatment but the latter increase the adhesion of APSV to the surface of polyester, because of the absence of active group in polyester. The pretreatment in an alkaline solution containing 5 g/l KOH is permitted. For a given cationic reagent, the optimum cationization level depends primarily on dye substantively and dye concentration in the dye bath. For that reason, the required APSV concentration increases with decreasing dye substantively and increasing dye concentration. Wool, wool/polyester and polyester are dyed with C.I. Acid Yellow 117 and C.I. Acid Red 249 as described in the experimental section. The results are presented in Figures 3.1 and 3.2, it was clearly demonstrated that the pretreatment using APSV enhanced the color strength of acid dyestuffs regardless the type of fiber. The enhancement in color strength could have arisen from the improved dye substantivity caused by the introduction of cationic groups into the fibers. The average increase in color strength depends mainly on the substantivity of the fabric for acid dyes. The absence of substantivity of polyester for acid dyes increases the average rrise of color strength compared 94

with wool and wool/polyester at different concentrations of APSV. This holds true regardless the type of acid dyes. It was observed that, the use of higher proportion of APSV increased the number of positive charges on the fibers, in turn cationic dye site in the fibers having electrostatic interactions with dye anions increases, thus enhancing the color strength of the dyed fabrics. It was desirable to select different types of acid dyestuffs to reflect their substantively difference on the extent of their penetration under the acid dyeing conditions. Therefore, C.I. Acid Yellow 117 and C.I. Acid Red 249 were selected, where they have the same number of sulphonic groups and have different structures. It was also observed from Figures 3.1and 3.2 that, the color strength values of dyed fabrics using C.I. Acid Yellow are higher than on using C.I. Acid Red 249, regardless the type of fiber. This increase may be attributed to the difference in molecular structure with respect to planarity and steric hindered, substantively and dye infusibility.

Figure 3.1: Effect of concentration of APSV on the color strength of fabrics dyed with C.I. Acid yellow 117.

Figure 3.2: Effect of APSV concentration on the color strength of fabrics dyed with C.I. Acid Red 249. (Dyeing conditions: shade 2% owf, L.R. 1:50, ammonium sulphate 5% owf, pH 4, at 100째C for 60 min.)

3.2. Static Charge Test Electrostatic properties are important for identifying the final end-use for the fabrics used. Static charge test results were obtained and evaluated for the untreated, treated and dyed fabrics, seeking for the optiJuly - August 2015


FINISHING Table 3.1: ANOVA test for electric static charges of fabrics before and after APSV treatment and dyeing. Static charge test

Analysis L.R

Fabric without Mean± dying

Warp Weft Cover Material Material Factor 6379 ± 8773.97

SD. F

4.640

253.563 4.003

P. Value 0.00** 0.00** Fabric dyed

Mean±

with

SD.

Acid Red

F

Figure 3.3: Surface static charges for the blank and treated samples with APSV.

Mean±

with Acid

SD.

Yellow

F

19.205 58.318

Figure 3.5: Surface static charges for blank and treated samples dyed with CI Acid Yellow 117.

Texttreasure Just the fact that some geniuses were laughed at does not imply that all who are laughed at are geniuses. They laughed at Columbus, they laughed at Fulton, they laughed at the Wright brothers. But they also laughed at Bozo the Clown. - Carl Sagan July - August 2015

6.396

56.02

0.14

0.00**

110 ± 6773.33 23.190

20.648

43.65

P. Value 0.00** 0.00**

0.00**

0.00**

* Significance at (0.05).

Figure 3.4: Surface static charges for blank and treated samples dyed with CI Acid Red 249.

192.9 0.00**

8658.67 ± 6278.95

P. Value 0.00** 0.00** Fabric dyed

0.49

7.286

**Significance at (0.01).

Figure 3.3 and Table 3.1 clarify that, the APSV treatment had a high significant effect on all fabric samples. The charges on the surface of the wool and wool/ polyester fabrics increased after treatment, due to the cationic properties of the fiber structure in wool. This in turn increased the electrostatic repulsion between the cationic agent, APSV and wool resulting in generated and accumulated charges on the surface of wool and wool/polyester fabrics. On the other hand, the polyester fabric was affected by treatment and low charges were recorded on the fabric surface because majority of the generated charges are consumed in electrostatic interactions between the cationic APSV and alkaline pretreated polyester fabric. Figure 3.4 and Table 3.1 shows the significant effect of treatment with different concentration of APSV followed by dyeing with C.I. Acid Red 249 on the electrostatic properties of fabrics. The wool/polyester sample was affected after treatment and dyeing together in which the rate of electrical charges on the surface increased which may be attributed to the fact that dyeing process with acid dyes was not carried out in neutral medium, emits positive and negative ions make them available on the surface of the fabric. Dyeing of polyester blank had a significant effect on reducing the static charges on the fabrics surface due to the absence of the substantively of acid dyes. Figure 3.5 and table 3.1 clarify that, the treatment with different concentrations of APSV charges had a high significant effect either by increasing or decreasing 95

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

mum conditions enhanced the electrical resistivity of fabrics. Wool and Wool/Polyester fabrics were treated with various concentrations of APSV (1, 5, 7.5 and 10%), while the polyester fabric was treated with concentrations (2.5, 5, 7.5 and 10%). A comparison was carried out between the treated samples before and after dyeing using Acid Yellow and Acid Red dyes.


FINISHING static charges on the fabric surface. The polyester sample treated with 7.5% APSV and dyed with Acid Yellow gave the lowest values of static charges on the surface. This may be attributed to the compatibility of the structure of acid dye and the treating agent, which in turn leads to a static neutralization on the surface of the fabric. On the other hand, the wool sample dyed with Acid Yellow had its lowest value on the surface of the blank sample. Generally, from Figures 3.3 to 3.5, it was found that wool and polyester samples dyed with Acid Yellow without treatment achieved the best results in reducing the static electricity on the fabrics surface. According to table 2.2, polyester fabric can be classified as excellent. Besides, the wool/polyester sample treated with 5% APSV and dyed with Acid Yellow achieved better ability in reducing the static electricity on fabrics surface. The results also demonstrated that, the warp materials and the fabrics cover factor had a high significant effect on the electrostatic charges on fabrics surface. Because of the nature of the fibers used which accumulated electrical charges on their surfaces, the wool carries positive charges which strongly appear with friction, while the polyester carries a negative charge after alkaline pretreatment. Also it was cleared that, the high fabric cover factor with increased yarn intersections on the fabric surface makes it more affected during friction and allows the appearance of electrical charges on their surface.

3.3. Weight Test

Figure 3.6: Weight of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing. Table 3.3: ANOVA test for weight of fabrics before and after treatment and dying.

Analysis

Warp Material

Mean± SD.

190.6180 ± 27.05

F

260

81.248

P. Value

0.00**

0.00**

Cover Factor

Treatment + Dyeing

Mean± SD.

190.6180 ± 27.05

F

358.122

3.169

P. Value

0.00**

0.038*

* Significance at (0.05).

The pretreated fabric with 7.5% are subjected for washing and light fastness, the results are tabulated in Table 3.2. The fastness properties of all samples subjected for measurements are ranged from fairly good to excellent. Table 3.2: Fastness properties of untreated and treated fabrics dyed with C.I. Acid Yellow 117.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Samples Wool blank Wool treated

Alterations Washing Fastness Sc Sp Sw

Light Fastness

4

4-5

5

2-3

4-5

5-6

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

Polyester blank

5

5

5

5

5

Polyester treated

4

4-5

4-5

4

4-5

wool /Polyester blank

4

3-4

4-5

2-3

4-5

wool /Polyester

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

treated

Weft Material

**Significance at (0.01).

P*: Polyester fabric dyed without chemical treatment in all tests. Figure 3.6 and Table 3.3 represent the results of the weight test of fabrics before and after treatment and dying. It was found that, the warp and weft materials and the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the fabrics weight. The wool fabric recorded the highest weight values followed by the wool/polyester and the polyester fabrics due to the English yarn count of wool and its increased thickness and the crosssection shape. It has an ability to absorb and retain moisture from the atmosphere which also increases its weight. It was also found that treatment and dyeing had a high significant effect on the fabrics weight as their weight increased after treating with APSV. The polyester fabric recorded low weight values after treatment and dyeing for treated and blank fabrics.

a Alteration ( change in color) ,Sw Staining on wool ,Sp Staining on polyester, Sc Staining on cotton. 96

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FINISHING 3.4. Thickness Test

3.5. Tensile Strength and Elongation Test

Figure 3.7 :Thickness of fabrics before and after treatment and dying. Table 3.4: ANOVA test for thickness of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing.

Warp Material

Weft Material

Mean± SD.

0.4461±0.13

F

8.915

120.412

P. Value

0.005**

0.00**

Table 3.5: ANOVA test for tensile strength of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing. Tests

Analysis Mean± SD.

0.4461±0.13

Tensile strength (Warp

F

2.040

366.39

104.85

489.96

F

118.012

2.746

direction)

P. Value

0.129

0.00**

0.00**

0.00**

P. Value

0.00**

0.06

Tensile strength (Weft

Mean± SD. F

2.006

375.120 232.218

664.75

direction)

P. Value

0.134

0.00**

0.00**

Elongation

Mean± SD.

(Warp

F

1105

direction)

P. Value

0.00** 0.00**

Elongation

Mean± SD.

(Weft

F

41.76

direction)

P. Value

0.00** 0.00**

Cover Factor Treatment + Dying Mean± SD.

* Significance at (0.05).

**Significance at (0.01).

The results in Figure 3.7 and Table 3.4 reveal that, the warp and the weft materials and the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the fabric thickness. The wool fabric had the highest thickness compared with the polyester fabric which had the lowest thickness values before and after treatment and dying. This is due to the hygroscopic nature of wool fibers which leads to their swelling, in addition to its yarn count and thick diameter. Also it was found that, different APSV concentrations treatment, followed by dyeing with Acid Yellow had a significant effect on the fabrics thickness. However, the dyed blank polyester had no a significant effect. The significance effect between fabrics may be attributed to the variation between their weight and fiber structure.

July - August 2015

L.R

Warp Weft Cover Material Material Factor 102.0943±49.441

74.0286±31.29

0.00**

43.6560±11.89 22.22

0.014

15.44

0.906

0.00**

51.0743±11.64

* Significance at (0.05).

30.11

3.72

15.88

0.063

0.00

**Significance at (0.01).

Figures 3.8, 3.9 and Table 3.5 represent the results of tensile strength test along the warp and weft directions. It was pointed that, the tensile strength values in the warp direction are higher than in the weft direction before and after treatment and dyeing of fabrics. The warp material and the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the fabrics strength. The polyester fabric achieved the highest tensile strength values in both the warp and weft directions compared with the other fabrics due to the high durability of polyester fibers because of its structure that consist of crystalline, oriented semi-crystalline as well as non-crystal97

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Analysis


FINISHING line (amorphous) regions. Besides, the attribution of benzene rings in the polyester polymer chain which lead to chain stiffness. Dyeing of blank fabric with Acid Yellow and treatment with APSV with various concentrations followed by dyeing have no significant effect on the tensile strength in both directions of fabric. Figure 3.10, 3.11 and Table 3.5 showed the results of elongation of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing along warp and weft directions. The percentage of elongation in the weft direction is higher than in the warp direction. The wool fabric recorded higher values of elongation in warp direction, and the wool/ polyester fabric in weft direction compared with the polyester fabric which recorded the lowest values in both directions of fabrics. This can be interpreted due to the natural crimp of the wool fiber as the chemical polypeptide chains folded back upon themselves like a coiled spring which elongates when it is extended and retracts when it is released. Additionally, it was illustrated that the warp material and the fabric cover factor had high significant effect of on the elongation percentage because of the difference in number of ends/ cm and number of picks/cm for each untreated sample. The effects of Acid Yellow dye for blank fabrics or APSV treatment followed by dyeing with Acid Yellow had high significant effect on the elongation values. This may be attributed to chemical structure of Acid Yellow and the nature of the fabrics. 3.6. Stiffness Test

Table 3.6: ANOVA test for stiffness of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing. Tests

Analysis

L.R

Warp Weft Cover Material Material Factor 2.82

Stiffness

Mean± SD.

(Warp

F

6.821

4278.8 ± 1412.63

direction)

P. Value

0.00** 0.103

2.171

5.50

0.150

0.009**

Stiffness

Mean± SD.

(Weft

F

1.403

0.574

3217.37 ± 1278.062 16.382

14.512

direction)

P. Value

0.261

0.454

0.00**

0.00**

* Significance at (0.05).

**Significance at (0.01).

The results of stiffness test of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing are cited in Figures 3.12, 3.13 and table 3.6. It was cleared that, the stiffness in the warp direction was higher than in the weft direction of the fabric .The wool fabric achieved the highest values of stiffness in both directions of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing because of its thickness and the natural crimps found in the fibers that lead to the resilience of wool. It was indicated that, the warp and weft materials had no significant effect on the stiffness results, while the effect of the fabric cover factor was highly significant on the results. This is due to the different yarn count for each sample and the difference in number of ends/cm and picks/cm for each sample. It was also cleared that, Acid Yellow dyeing of blank fabrics or APSV treatment followed by dyeing with Acid Yellow had no significant effect on the stiffness results in both directions of fabrics.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.7. Air Permeability Test

Texttreasure The best executive is the one who has sense enough to pick good men to do what he wants done, and self-restraint enough to keep from meddling with them while they do it.

Figure 3.14: Air permeability values before and after treatment and dyeing.

- Theodore Roosevelt 98

July - August 2015


FINISHING Table 3.7: ANOVA test for air permeability of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing.

Table 3.8: ANOVA test for water permeability of fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing.

Analysis

Warp Material

Mean± SD.

6.5906±1.37

101.87

F

133.735

37.612

0.00**

0.00**

P. Value

0.00**

0.00**

L.R

Cover Factor

L.R

Cover Factor

Analysis

Warp Material

Mean± SD.

54.1823 ± 25.03

F

280.224

P. Value Mean± SD.

54.1823 ± 25.03

F

13.438

P. Value

0.00**

* Significance at (0.05).

Weft Material

Weft Material

Mean± SD.

6.5906±1.37

140.72

F

29.081

66.896

0.00**

P. Value

0.00**

0.00**

**Significance at (0.01).

Figure 3.14 and table 3.7 present the results of air permeability of fabrics test before and after treatment and dyeing. It was cleared that, the warp and weft materials and the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the air permeability of fabrics. The polyester fabrics achieved the highest air permeability values before and after treatment compared with the other samples, because of uniform composition and smooth surface of the polyester fibers. This can be interpreted to fabrics porosity which is related to yarn counts and fibers diameter in addition to fabric thickness and weight. While the wool fabrics recorded the lowest values because of the high natural crimp in wool fibers that hold air inside the gaps on the fiber surface which reduces the air permeability rate. Also, it was observed that air permeability of fabrics decreased after applying treatment and dyeing, and the dyed blank polyester sample gave the highest value of air permeability. This may be due to the agglomeration of ordinary APSV particles covering the surface of fabrics with low air trapping capability, so air could be easily penetrate into the fabric. This may be also explained to a little marginal increase of moisture regain on the treated fabrics.

* Significance at (0.05).

**Significance at (0.01).

Figure 3.15 and table 3.8 represent the results of water permeability of fabrics test before and after treatment and dyeing. It was cleared that, the warp and weft materials as well as the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the water permeability of fabrics. The polyester fabrics achieved the highest rate of water permeability before and after treatment and dyeing, followed by the wool and the wool/polyester fabrics. This can be interpreted to the fabrics porosity which related to the fabric cover factor and the air gaps between yarns (porosity). In addition, the smooth surface of polyester fibers and its hydrophobic nature compared to the wool fibers are taken into account. Also, it was shown that dyeing with the Acid Yellow dye only or treatment with APSV concentrations and dyeing with Acid Yellow dye together had a high significant effect on water permeability of all fabrics especially on the dyed blank polyester samples.

Texttreasure A wise man can learn more from a foolish question than a fool can learn from a wise answer. - Bruce Lee Figure 3.15: Water permeability values before and after treatment and dyeing. July - August 2015

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.8. Water Permeability Test


FINISHING 3.9. Abrasion Resistance Test Table 3.9: ANOVA test for the fabric weight loss (%) after abrasion test on fabrics before and after treatment and dyeing. Tests

Analysis

Abrasion

Mean± SD.

L.R

Warp Weft Cover Material Material Factor 3.478±2.25

Resistance (Warp

F

3.538

0.266

33.112

26.162

direction)

P. Value

0.026* 0.610

0.00**

0.00**

Abrasion

Mean± SD.

3.459±2.21

Resistance (Weft

F

4.081

2.798

95.436

82.953

direction)

P. Value

0.015* 0.104

0.00**

0.00**

Figure 3.16, 3.17and Table 3.9 depicts the results of fabric weight loss (%) after applying abrasion test. It was found that, the loss in weight of untreated fabrics in the warp direction was higher than in the weft direction and its highest rate were observed in the wool fabrics. This is due to the resilient nature of wool fibers which have crimps and a scaly surface structure thus leads to fibers slippage because of friction during surface rubbing. The weft materials and the fabric cover factor had a high significant effect on the fabric weight loss (%) before and after treatment and dying. Besides, it was shown that dyeing with the Acid Yellow only or treatment with APSV concentrations and dyeing with Acid Yellow dye together had a significant effect in both warp and weft directions of fabrics. Treatment and dyeing reduced the fabric weight loss (%) in the warp direction of the polyester and wool/ polyester fabrics, while they increased the weight loss (%) in the weft direction in all the samples. 3.10. Evaluation of the Functional Properties of Fabrics Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.18 shows the radar chart areas for the evaluation of all fabrics performance comparing their physical and mechanical properties after applying chemical treatments and dying. It was revealed that, the polyester samples treated with 7.5% APSV and dyed with Acid Yellow dye was the best in achieving the functionality in terms of having low static charges on surface and better mechanical and physical properties, followed by the polyester sample dyed without treatment, the wool/polyester sample treated with 5% APSV and dyed with Acid Yellow dye and finally the wool samples dyed with yellow dye without treatment. 4. Conclusion The electrical static charge generated in fabrics can cause discomfort problems in clothing or cause serious hazards in explosive working environment, or damage to the sensitive electronic equipment. The study had worked on the reduction of the electric charges generated on the surface of fabrics. Plain 1/1 woven fabrics were produced with different yarn materials, treated with Antistatic finishes (Aminopropylsilsesquioxane-vinyl-sesquioxane) copolymer followed by dyeing with Acid dyes were examined aiming to reduce electrostatic charges and improve the functional performance. The physical and mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated and evaluated. The results showed that, the pretreatment with APSV render the wool/polyester fabric and polyester fabric acid dye-able and improved dye substantively caused by the introduction of cationic groups into the fibers. The best samples affected with the antistatic finishing and dying were the polyester fabric treated with 7.5% APSV and blank samples dyed with C.I.Acid Yellow 117. So in this regard, these fabrics can be proposed to be used in garments such as coats, jackets and suit lining, etc. The wool fabric had a poor response to treatment and dying, in addition to the reduction of the static charges formed on its surface was low. Thus further studies are needed in this concern. Antistatic finishes applied after dyeing will be undertaken in the future. References 1.

2. Figure 3.18: Evaluation of the functional properties of fabrics.

3. 100

How Static Affects Product Quality, SIMCO World Headquarters. www.tekpak.com/pdf/ eng_article3.pdf . Ferguson, L. and Seattle, W.A., Properties of Fibers and Fabrics, Edmonds Community College, (2009). Schindler, W.D. and Hauser, P.J., Chemical FinJuly - August 2015


FINISHING

4. 5.

6.

7. 8. 9.

10.

11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

18.

ishing of Textiles, Wood head Publishing Limited, 121-128, (2004). Static-electricity. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Static_electricity. It's Shocking. Static Electricity Experiments, (2013). http://web.rss.k12.nc.us/rssys/Graphics/ curr/LessonPlans/MSPModulesWeb/ 3ItsShocking.pdf. Seyam, A.F., Oxenham, W. and Castle, P., National Textile Center Annual Report, NTC Project No.: C04-NS07, (2004). Kurtus, R., Effect of Materials on Static Electricity, (2014). http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/ static_materials.htm. Parsons, L., Static with Curtain Fabric, (2009). www.http:blog.kothea.com/2009/01/14/static-withcurtain-fabrics/ Varnait, S., Vitkauskas, A., Abraitien?, A., Rube•ien?, V. and Valien?, V., Materials Science (Med•iagotyra), 14 (2), 157-161, (2008). Solutions to Static Problems .Textiles Textile Applications: Carding, Beaming, Creels 1/2. http://fraser-antistatic.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/ files/textileapplicationsiss3.pdf Ebrahim, F.F.S. and Mansour, O.S.M., Journal of American Science, 9 (4), 87-94, (2013). Varnait, S., Materials Science (Med•iagotyra), 16 (2), 133-137, (2010). Static Electricity. www.murraybridgegc.com/files/ static-electricity.pdf Clothing Fibers, (2008). Learning seed http:// pdf.thepdfportal.net/PDFFiles/65059.pdf Electrostatic & Noise Absorption Properties, (2010).www.docstoc.com/.../B-Electrostatic-andnoise-absorption-properties. Wool for Interior Textiles 100% Natural Renewable Sustainable. IWTO International Wool Textile Organization. www.iwto.org/uploaded/

19.

20.

21.

22. 23. 24.

25.

26.

27.

28. 29.

30.

projects/roadmap/iwto_rm_english.pdf. Varnadoe,C.R., Larnbert, W.R. and Ryles, R.C., Facts about Clothing, (2000). http:// www.caes.uga.edu/extension/dawson/4H/documents/Cottonboll-facts-clothing.pdf Wright, S., Selecting Fabrics for Home Furnishing, Cooperative Extension Service, College of Agriculture and Home Economics, Electronic Distribution, (2003). aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_g/G401.pdf Crow, R. M., Static Electricity A Literature Review, Defense Research Establishment Ottawa, Department of National Defense, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, (1991). Rybicki, E. and Mielicka, B., Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 4 (3/4), 112-113, (1996). Eom, S., ATTCC Review, 1 (3), 57-60, (2001). Takahashi, K., Ohta, K., Kadota, K., and Saeki, M., Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 42 (11), 600-604, (1989). Zhou, Z. W., Chu , L., Tang, W. and Gu. L., Journal of Electrostatics, 57 (3-4), 347-354, (2003). Wu, Y, Chi, Y.B., Nie, J.X., Yu, A.P., Chen, X.H. and Gu., H.C., Journal of Functional Polymers,15, 43-47, (2002). Whitem J.W. and Treadgold, R. C., Organo- Functional siloxanes, in Siloxane Polymers (edited by Clarson, S.J. and Semlyen, J.A), New Jersey, 193215, (1993). Specified Requirements of Antistatic Textiles. www.ftts.org.tw/images/fa009E.pdf. JIS L1094, Testing methods for electrostatic propensity of woven and knitted fabrics, Japanese Standards Association (JSA JIS), (2014). Judd, D.B. and ysezcki, G.W., Color in Business, Science and Industry, 3rd Ed, (Wiley Series in Pure and Applied Optics), Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York, (1975). ❑ ❑ ❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion www.textileassociationindia.org July - August 2015

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PEER REVIEWED

GARMENTING

Effect of Various Process Variables on Button Pullout Strength of Buttons Shelly Khanna* & Amandeep Kaur Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences. Abstract The paper aims at the elucidation of the effect of process variables for button attachment for apparels as Men's attire. A number of sewing threads of variable compositions, hand and machine needles along with button varieties were taken for the study to highlight the impact of hand and machine sewing operations on the performance of button attachment in terms of button pull strength. The modes and work done for button detachment have also been investigated, that is ought to be one of the prime area of concern for the garment technologists to produce quality apparels. Keywords Apparels, attire, button attachment, detachment, garment technologists, machine sewing and needles

1. Introduction Buttons are small instruments use to fasten two parts of a garment. It is an element that makes the difference and enhances a men's or women's garment, a leather item, a pair of jeans or even non apparel items. Elegant and classical buttons means a unique style; the perfectly shaped and Tallow the wearer's personality to stand out, enhancing a garment, a leather item, jeans or other secondary articles.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Button is a small round disc usually attached to an article of apparel or garment in order to secure an opening, or for decorative ornamentation. Buttoning is done by sliding the button through a fabric with reinforced slit called button hole or thread loop [1]*. Buttons are fashionable because these decorate and enhance the look of garments and related accessories.

Figure 1.1: Buttons *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Shelly Khanna, Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences, Bhiwani, Haryana. Email : sh_khanna2002@yahoo.com 102

1.1 Buttonholes Button holes are used for insertion and holding the buttons that are purposeful for locking as well as retaining the buttons. Buttonholes can be made by hand with the use of button hole stitches or even a utility sewing machine be put to use [2]. Buttonholes often have a bar tack at either end that is a perpendicular stitch for the reinforcement of the open ends of a buttonhole. Button hole size is the length from the bar to bar but if the inside cut is too big or too small, the buttonhole cut can restrict button to slide in or easily slip out of buttonhole. Appropriate buttonhole opening is decided as button size (L) + button thickness. The variables related to the button hole include size of button, shape of button, style of button, stitch density, shape & dimensions of the button hole itself [3]. 1.2 History and Origin of Buttons During the ancient Indus Valley civilization (circa 28002600 BC) and Bronze Age sites in China (circa 20001500BC), beads were found to be in use to fasten body covering materials like hide and fur. Beads were used as ornaments for their decorative and symbolic value rather than the fasteners but gradually the use modified to fasten layers of materials one over the other. The term is derived from the French word, button meaning a 'round object'. The earliest known button was originally used more as an ornament than as a fastening and the earliest known button was being found at Mohenjo-daro in the Indus Valley. It was made up of a curved shell and about 5000 years old. Early buttons usually consisted of a decorative flat face that July - August 2015


GARMENTING

Buttons are mostly used in all classes of men's, women's and kid's garments, as skirts, shirts, trousers, leather items, a pair of jeans, school bags, blouses, tops, Tshirts and home decor articles as cushion covers, pillow covers, blanket & quilt covers. Accessories as handbags, trendy footwear, headgears also exploit the use of decorative buttons. The selection of the buttons depends on the garment style, cost and care of the garments. The various types of the buttons are- shank button, two hole button, plastic button, resin button and wooden button [5].

Alloy Button

Coconut Button

Metal Button

Plastic Button

Resin Button

Wooden Button

1.3 Importance of Button Attachment The style of button attachment on garments varies according to the gender of person as for Men's garments, left over right and for women's apparels; right over left arrangement is performed [6]. The performance of the garment depends on the seams and stitches used for joining the different components of the garments. Along with this, the utility of the apparels also get affected by the trims and components used in them [7]. Thus, the trim such as buttons is important for study to determine the performance of the whole garment and the buttons as well [8]. 1.4 Button Attaching Mechanism Buttons can be attached by two main mechanisms as manual attachment and machine attachment. In manual button attaching mechanism, buttons are attached with hands with the use of a number of running stitches. In this mechanism, buttons are attached by with the help of button attachment machines. In this machine, fabric is stationary during each button cycle, but needle moves and perform every attachment action. The fabric is placed for a single button attachment in conventional button attaching machines, but in automatic button attaching machines, the fabric is provided with a movement for sequential button attachment. The button attachment machine is without any conventional presser foot, feed dog & throat plate. But all these components are replaced with button clamp holder & slider plate or spacer plate, that is used with a rectangular slit for needle movement in place of conventional slot because it provides more space for needle movement or needle penetration at the time of button attachment on the fabric surface. The variables affecting the performance of button attachment is a crucial area to be explored for seeking the potential benefits of trim attachment but fewer studies have been conducted on the same. This paper aimed at exploring the effect of different variables as sewing threads, sewing needles and button types on button pullout strength performance of various types of buttons with the comparative analysis of hand and machine sewing operations. Also, the mode of button detachment had been investigated at the instant of button failure. This was followed by the designing of a Men's shirt by using the interpreted results.

Figure 1.2: Button types July - August 2015

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

fit into a loop but reinforced buttonholes weren't invented until the mid-13th century. Functional buttons with button-holes for fastening or closing clothing appeared first in Germany in the 13th century. These soon became widespread with the rise of snug fitting garments in 13thand 14th century in Europe. Since, that time the buttons have evolved both for the decorative and functional objectives as well [4].


GARMENTING 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials Polyester/viscose blended (65/35) plain woven shirting fabric was used for the work with GSM120, EPI 86, PPI 80 and thickness 0.00174 mm. Four types of sewing threads with different compositions and properties were undertaken for the work namely 100% Cotton, Poly-cotton core spun, Poly-poly core spun and 100% Polyester threads. The sewing thread specifications and properties are listed in Tables 2.1.1 & 2.1.2. Two sets of hand sewing needles with needle numbers 7 & 8 (N-7 & N-8) and two machine sewing needles with specifications as Organ- TQ 90/14 & Organ- TQ 100/16 (N-14 & N- 16) were chosen. Four variations of buttons as Small, Rectangle, Gilly and Red-Green had been worked upon with the details mentioned in Table 2.1.3.

2.2 Method The work was carried out with hand as well as machine sewing by using three process variables namely 4 types of sewing threads, 4 classes of buttons and 2 sets of sewing needles for each type of operation. A skilled operator was engaged for hand sewing of buttons and a dedicated button attaching machine (Juki MB-372) with a cylinder bed, class 100 (STCS), SPI12 and two stitch cycles was used. A Computerized Button Snap Pull-Out tester (button pull strength testing) - ASTM D4551-09e1 (Fig. 2.2.1 a, b & c) [9] was employed to evaluate the performance of the button attachment in terms of button pull or breaking load measured in kilograms (force). Also, buttons were tested initially for diameter and thickness with Vernier Caliper. All sets of sewing threads were tested for straight tensile strength, loop strength and knot strength.

Table 2.1: Sewing Thread Specifications S. Thread Types no.

Tex

No. of Twist TPI Plies

1.

100% Cotton (C)

27

2

Z

6.5

2.

100% Polyester (P)

24

2

Z

6.2

3.

Poly-Cotton Core Spun (P-C)

30

2

Z

7.6

4.

Poly-Poly Core Spun (P-P)

26

2

Z

5.8

(a) Table 2.2: Sewing Thread properties

S. no. Thread types

Tensile Strength (kgs)

CV%

Elongation Loop CV% strength(kgs)

Knot Strength CV% (kgs)

1.

C

0.665

3.93

0.80

1.17967

20.65

0.5798

5.84

2.

P

0.991

6.58

1.08

1.3815

6.91

0.8972

12.88

3.

P-C

1.863

2.23

1.73

2.322

6.34

1.01742

6.47

4.

P-P

0.951

3.78

0.89

1.1694

6.56

0.55432

9.99

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.3: Button specifications

Sr. Button Types Diameter Thickness no. (1mm=0.443296L) (mm) 1.

Small

4L

2.5 mm

2.

Rectangle

5L

2.5 mm

3.

Gilly

5L

2.5mm

4.

Red- Green

5L

2.5 mm

Texttreasure Try a thing you haven't done three times. Once, to get over the fear of doing it. Twice, to learn how to do it. And a third time, to figure out whether you like it or not. - Virgil Garnett Thomson

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July - August 2015


GARMENTING served on the button pull strength of the needle number for any thread and button type. This might be due to the reason that the needle sizes are compatible with the holes of the buttons and no needle breakages had been encountered.

(b)

Figure 3.1: Button pull strength of buttons sewn with machine needles

(c) Figure 2.1: a, b c Computerized Button Snap Pull-Out tester

3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Effect of sewing threads type and needle fineness on button pull-out strength for Machine and Hand stitching operations The Poly-cotton core spun sewing threads have given the highest strength for all the needle numbers and also for both hand and machine operations. Also, the 100% cotton sewing threads have shown the minimum strength due to the inherent low strength of the threads. The cotton sewing threads are followed by 100% polyester and poly-poly core spun threads as shown in Figures 3.1 & 3.2. No significant effect has been obJuly - August 2015

3.2 Effect of operation type on button pull strength for different sewing threads with various needle types For comparing the efficiency and consistency of the mode of operation, the results have been constricted to one needle type for each operation i.e. Needle no. 14 for machine sewing and Needle no. 8 for hand sewing. The hand sewn results are poor in comparison to the machine button attachment. This is mainly due to the inconsistency of the work and depends mainly on the operator' skill. Also, the index of variability is very high for the hand operations for all the button types and all sets of sewing threads as detailed in Figure 3.3.

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.2: Button pull strength of buttons sewn with hand needles


GARMENTING

Figure 4.1: Mode of button detachment

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.3: Effect of sewing operation on button pull strength of various buttons

4. Conclusions The button shape and size have a great impact on the button pull through strength as the size of the buttons gets too small or too big; the effectiveness of the button attachment reduces. The type and size of sewing thread greatly affects the performance of button attaching, the compatibility of the sewing thread size, needle size and button holes of sew- through buttons is an important consideration. The Poly cotton -core spun sewing threads had shown the highest pull through strength among all the chosen sewing threads due to the highest tex size and also with the highest tenacity. The size of the needle had shown very little effect on the button attachment performance for both the hand and machine sewing. The mode of button attachment is also important with respect to the durability of the stitches against being pulled off and also, the consistency of button attachment is important. Due to these reasons, machine button attachment is preferred over the manual attachment because of the lesser variability of the attachment process. The mode of failure of button attachment had been observed as sewing thread failure, full as well as partial button breakage, fabric pulling out and combined button and thread breakage as shown in Figure 4.1. Small buttons attached with Poly-cotton core spun sewing threads have shown the maximum button pull through strength with the least degree of variation, needle number 14 on the button attaching machine was used for the final production of the Men's shirt as shown in Fig. 4.2 .

Texttreasure

References 1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6.

7.

8.

The person who reads too much and uses his brain too little will fall into lazy habits of thinking. - Albert Einstein 106

Figure 4.2: End product: Men's shirt

9.

http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/trimsclosures-accessories.html. http://www.craftsy.com. www.ChinaTrimmings.com. Stewart J., 'The simple, humble, surprisingly sexy button' (2012, June 14) Retrieved 2014, August26 from http://www.slate.com/articles/life/design/ 2012/06/button_history_a_visual_tour_of_button_ design_through_the_ages_.html. http://www.ykkfastening.com/products/types/ t_snap_button.html. Benjamin R., 'Why Are Men's and Women's Buttons on Opposite Sides?' (2010, July 06) Retrieved 2014, December 25 from http:// www.livescience.com / 32681-why-are-mens-andwomens-buttons-on-opposite-sides.html. Carr H and Latham B., 'Garment accessories and enhancements', Technology of Clothing Manufacture, 4th edition, Ed. David J. Tyler, Blackwell Publishing Ltd., UK, 193, (2008). http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/06/28/sewing-on-a-button. http://www.globetexindustries.in/laboratory-testing-fabric-testing instruments.html. ❑ ❑ ❑ July - August 2015


TEXPERIENCE

Enhancement in the Profits through Structured Cost Reduction Mechanism V. K. Gupta* Technical Adviser, Century Enka Ltd. & Century Rayon, Director, Eurotex Industries and exports Ltd.

Mr. V. K. Gupta is Textile Graduate of 1966 from T.I.T. Bhiwani; TEP (General Management) from The Darden Graduate School of Business Administration, University Of Virginia, USA ; Quality Management from Japan. He headed the Operations of J.K. Synthetics, Modipon, Baroda Rayon;Process & Quality Control of Swadeshi Polytex Ltd., JCT Mills Phagwara. Technical Adviser, JCTNylon, Hoshiarpur. Mr. Gupta is presently Technical Adviser to Century Enka Ltd.& Century Rayon. And also is a Director on the board of Eurotex Industries and exports Ltd. E-mail: kumargvinod@yahoo.com

In this article, I have suggested unique way for cost awareness and mechanism to reduce through two ways. One is with individual innovation, which leads to self-pride on the achievements. In this system, no investment is needed but individual creativity plays vital role. Two, through cross functional teams/specific groups by using tools without incurring any or insignificant expenditure. The system is not theoretical but I have practiced it at some organizations with significant positive results. The system has led to continuous improvements/cost reduction and hence facilitated in increasing the profits. Introduction In any manufacturing process, cost always has significant bearing on the profits. Cost saved is profit earned. Hence those organizations, which are cost conscious and have system of continuous improvements on the cost survives and grow. The gap between desirable level and the desired level of cost is called the gap, which is creating losses. We need to bridge this gap to enhance profits. If the gap goes on increasing the losses shall go on increasing. Hence the organization should concentrate focus on the costs. The gap should create tension among the executives so that proactive action is initiated timely. The tension created by the gap is called as creative tension, which shall go away by taking some creative steps by the teams. With increasing competition, the profits shrink and hence the only way to survive and grow is to reduce the costs. This needs, change in our paradigm by accepting the fact that only lowest cost produces shall win. We need to challenge all the costs, create companywide awareness on the costs and come create structured specific mechanism to reduce the costs.

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

V.K.Gupta

Abstract Indian Textile Industries are facing global competitive environment and are having pressure on the profits. Gone are the days of huge profits. Domestic value addition and export opportunities are diminishing for the organized sectors. Countries like China are dumping their products at lower cost. Basically cost has become deciding factor. I believe, Cost saved is profit earned and that is the only way to face competition to survive and grow. Normally, we just desire and communicate to reduce costs at all the levels without any specific methodology. Hence nothing happens and sometimes it increases instead of reducing. Unless we have structured specific way for creating cost awareness and method to reduce the costs, without incurring expenditure, it does not happen.


TEXPERIENCE The mechanism should be continuous for continuous improvements, measurable and need to be monitored. Cost Chart Cost

Creative tension to bridge The Gap

Cost Awareness Each activity costs money. Cost reduced is directly proportional to money/profits earned. If cost = Revenue then no profit or loss Cost less than Revenue, there is profit Cost more than Revenue, there is loss Cost has to be = Revenue - adequate profit

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Important components of the cost are fixed & variable costs, which are governed by the following:a) Cost Drivers: They generate cost & hence called as cost drivers, e.g. people increased from existing level. Any activity added to get same output will be the cost driver. b) Cost Cycle: No. of activities/stages of process is called as cost cycle. Elimination of activities or processes like adding the machines which perform jobs of two or more stages reduces cost cycle. This will lead to reduction in people, energy, handling etc. c) Set up time: Time taken in doing the activity is called as setup time. For example overhauling of machines, cleaning time, project completion time are the examples of set up time. If the time required to complete activity is reduced, it will result in reduction of cost & increased productivity. Proposed Structured Mechanism for continuous cost reduction Two ways have been considered to have effective cost reduction:A) Individual Innovation for Cost reduction: Individual Staff and officers are involved & the source of cost reduction is their creativity, without involving significant expenditure. B) Group effort for Cost Reduction by application of Special cost reduction tools, which may in108

volve some expenditure, to be weighed against the cost benefit analysis. Improvements through Individual Innovation and creativity: a) Concept: - This is a structured system to generate on continuous basis, creative thinking among the officers of all the levels to make improvements without incurring significant expenditure. b) Area of improvement: -Individual department and/or companywide campaign. The mechanism of Cost Reduction through individual creativity: a) Announce launch of cost Reduction campaign companywide and or Specific area. b) Make Cost Reduction groups consisting of not more than 11 people in one group. To start with topteam/Sr. Executives of the company c) In the group identify group facilitator & reporter. d) Ear mark focus area: Decide and declare specific focus area for Cost reduction. e) Fix periodicity of the meeting, say monthly frequency. f) Idea generation process through mind mapping, actions/trials: During the month each member of the group, makes individual thinking and efforts to identify cost reduction element in his area and then mind mapping and actions/trial to reduce cost by the action, which he has identified. He can take help of his colleagues to make his idea a success. The individuals concentrate focus to make "His cost reduction innovative idea" happen. He makes all the preparation to present the cost reduction idea to the group in the monthly meeting. g) Structured Form for Presentation: Each member fills his "Cost Reduction innovative idea" in the Cost Reduction form for the period before going to the meeting. Proposed format is enclosed in annexure A. h) Presentation to the group: All the group members, say 10, meet at fixed venue at decided time to report their individual "Cost reduction innovative idea" with actual results in terms of cost reduction in Rupees. i) Individual motivation and no Criticism by peer groups: While individual member takes pride in reporting his cost reduction idea, the group members listen carefully with positive attitude and support, without interruption and/or criticism. j) Collect the forms like sea shells: After presentJuly - August 2015


TEXPERIENCE b) c) d) e) f)

g)

h)

Continuous Improvement- Cost Reduction Form, annexure A: Month/Period of Review

Date of Meeting:

Name:

Department:

Designation:

No. of ideas during the month:Details of the Cost reduction idea: Are the actions on cost reduction completed?

i)

Help received from:Gains per month in Rs: Expenses incurred on the actions: Other Associated advantages: Qualitative, quantitative, ease of operation:-

Interpretation and actual Outcome from the system: The author has practically tried the system and witnessed significant gains in cost reduction, with increase of individual involvement, motivation and creativity to make continuous improvements to increase profits and brow. Cost Reduction Mechanism through Cross functional Teams/Groups with Application of Tools This is the process of cost reduction by the groups involving as a whole, in the Cost Identification, Analysis & Elimination through application of brain storming & application Special tools like Pareto. Process a) Make cost reduction cross functional teams consisting people from various functional area like production, purchase, Engineering, finance, etc. Not to have more than 10 persons in the team. Such teams can be made in various area of high cost. July - August 2015

j)

Identify focus area, where cost reduction is very high and need to be cut for survival and growth. Collect cost data details. This is to be done by respective functional group members. Meeting: Decide frequency of meeting, say monthly. Also decide time period and venue. Select Facilitator and reporter Present cost data: In the group meeting, detailed cost data shall be presented and written on the flip chart. Group the data: Now make groups of the data in different specific heads, like Raw material and allied items and additives, Man power, Electrical power, Administrative expenses, etc. Make Pareto: From the data under different heads, make pareto analysis and Pareto diagram. The Pareto Analysis and diagram was invented by Pareto. This is a method to identify vital (main) few causes/items of undesirable results. Major/ critical problems are tackled from the diagram, leaving trivial many(less important)problems/ items. Normally 75%of the cumulative on Pareto are identified for solution. Now identify Vital main cost elements (or maximum contributing), by putting horizontal line at 75% cumulative as in annexure 1. Put the identified items from the pareto in descending order of priority as in Annexure 1.

We identify from Annexure 1, first three maximum cost contributing i.e. raw material and additives, Man Power and Power. Items 1,2,3 are identified at 75%.Let us say this is Pareto 1 as in annexure1. a) Make second pareto on the identified items :Now make pareto on item 1 (raw material and additives) from Pareto 1.This can be done on detailed cost data and brain storming in the group. Let us make pareto of raw material and additives & draw line at 75%, in the same way as above in Pareto 1. Identify main cost elements of Raw material and additives. At 75% say Main raw material and additive 1are identified in Pareto 2, annexure 2. Now brain storm causes and possible actions on reduction of Pareto 2 identified items. Actions could be reduce waste, purchase at lower cost, increase productivity etc b) Similarly make pareto 3 for vital item 2 (Man Power) as identified in pareto 1. As done in Pareto 2, identify 75% contributing in Man Power also. Brain storm causes and make action plan to reduce power cost. It could be process elimination by innovation, multi-skilling, employee low cost man power, Reduce 109

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ing his idea, the Cost Reduction innovative idea form for is submitted to the reporter. The cost reduction gains are tabulated for individuals on monthly & cumulative basis. k) Continuous improvement: This process is self motivating to all the individuals to contribute on continuous basis their cost reduction ideas and efforts l) Recognition as award: Have half year convention, where selected vital few Cost reduction innovations are presented by individuals. Presence of senior most person/CEO in the convention motivates the creativity environment & the individual winners. m) Specific Action Plan: Make plan of action and monitoring system as in Annexure A.


TEXPERIENCE man power, increase productivity c) Now make Pareto 4 on Vital few item 3 i.e. Electric Power. Identify at 75% vital few causes and brain storm on actions to reduce power. It could be Reduce power consumption, purchase power at low cost, process Re-engineering and reduction in set up time, increase productivity, etc. Put specific focus on action plan on the Pareto items at 75% as identified in Pareto 2, 3, 4. Details are inannexure 1, pareto1. d) Specific action Plan: Make plan of specific action plan (as in annexure B) with responsibilities and indicating start and finish dates. e) Compile gains on monthly basis :- The reporter shall compile the gains obtained as a result of actions taken on the Pareto /vital few cost elements. f) Continuous improvements on the cost: The method shall become a process for continuous reduction in the cost to increase profits. Annexure B Cost reduction through cross functional teams with application of tools Plan of action and monitor using specific format, e.g. as given below: S.No. Actions

Who

When Dates(start-finish)

Annexure1: Pareto 1 on overall cost drivers/elements COST, Rs 100% 75

1. Raw material & additives, 2. Man Power, 3. Power, 4. Other, 5. Other utilities, 6. Administration, 7. Others VITAL FEW from Pareto at 75% are items 1,2 & 3. Interpretation and conclusions: ◆ From Pareto no.1, we have identified that at 75% the vital few cost drivers/elements are Nos. 1,2 & 3. Rest are trivial many. We can leave trivial many which contributes to 25%. ◆ To make things easy and crystal clear, make further paretos on vital few items 1, say pareto no.2 and identify vital few of item no. i.e. raw material and additives. Then make paareto to above vital few no.2 i.e. man power, say Pareto 3. Similarly make Pareto on vital few of item no.3 i.e Power. ◆ We shall get vital (important contributors) of eachitem1 (Raw material & additives), item2 (man Power and item 3(power). ◆ List all these vital few on flip chart in a group and brain storm each vital few in details,and action to reduce the cost by doing things differently. ◆ We shall get list of actions. Short list 10 actions as a first step and make specific action plan with responsibilities and specific start and finish date. ◆ Later monitor continuously and tabulate the gains and continue the process. This method has really resulted in substantial reduction of cost and so gains increased.

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TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffold in future. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. In the previous chapter, we tried to put forth the use of keratin protein extracted from wool and the application of the same as tissue engineering scaffold. The application of wool protein in different forms to manufacture tissue engineering scaffolds was discussed and the research that is been directed towards the use of keratin extracted from wool for specific end-use application was covered in the chapter. In the present chapter, the use of textile scaffolds as tissue adhesives is described. The need of tissue adhesives, the various requirements of scaffolds as tissue adhesives, the different methods that are employed for their manufacture are described herewith.

Chapter7 : Textile Scaffolds as Tissue Adhesives Mr. Santosh Biranje, Miss. Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar

Surgical suture (Commonly called Stitches) is a medical device used to hold body tissues together after an injury or surgery. Application generally involves using a needle with an attached length of thread. But surgical suturing itself inflicts trauma to tissues essentially when multiple passes are necessary. The post-operative integrity of the sutures may also be problematic, loosening or breaking required timely removal. It also requires prolong operative time and technical skill for effective suture placement [3]. Tissue adhesives serve as suitablealternatives to suturing or stapling. They represent fast and easyclosure methods which are lesspainful and do not require localanesthesia, thus, eliminating theproblems of suture application and removal.Tissue adhesive is defined asany substance with characteristicswhich allow adherence of two substrates together and havebeen developed as an advancedmethod for the approximation ofsuperficial wounds, optimallythose that are almost linear or demonstrated minimal or no tension [4]. The difference in the conventional suturing and advanced suturing using tissue adhesive is reduction in July - August 2015

the trauma that the tissue has to undergo in conventional suturing. As seen from figure 1, the numerous points at which the conventional suturing is done can be completely avoided using tissue adhesives. The use of fibres as material for sutures in surgery is a very long-standing and also simpleapplication of textiles in medicine. By the use of certain textile technologies it is also possible togenerate complex structures and three dimensional designs.The reason why textiles are used in regenerative medicine and tissue engineering is that they exhibitmany advantages over other methods to fabricate scaffolds. With their large surface, fibres offera huge area for cell adhesion and are therefore effective for the cultivation of cells. By varying thefibre diameter, distance, as well as surface properties of the fibres, the characteristics of scaffoldscan be changed very easily. Different textile technologies like electro-spinning, weaving, knitting,etc. allow for the variation of the properties and the adaptation to the particular application [5]. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction 'Adhesion'is defined by the physicist as the molecular force of attraction in the areaof contact between unlike bodies that acts to hold them together and'bioadhesion'is simply the adhesive phenomena where at least one of the adherent is biological. The materials are attached to each other byinterfacial forces for an extended period of time [1, 2].

Conventional suturing 111


TEXNOTE sive in osteo-surgery. Anastomosis is typically performed on blood vessel such as blood arteries or blood veins and urinary tract such as ureters or urinary bladder.

Tissue adhesive technique Figure 1: Comparison between conventional suturing and tissue adhesive technique

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2. Properties required for tissue adhesive materials ◆ Firm adhesion ◆ Tensile strength ◆ Biocompatible ◆ Permeable to fluids and metabolites to prevent necrosis ◆ Non-inflammation ◆ High healing rate ◆ Lower post-operative wound infection ◆ Control bleeding ◆ Maintain intimate contact with the site of application for 1 to 24 hours; ◆ Be sufficiently adhesive and cohesive; ◆ Guarantee controlled delivery of the active ingredients in wet and moist environments; ◆ Be non-toxic, non-irritating; ◆ Be easily removable. The bio-adhesives material should have extraordinarily high cohesive and binding strength to the solid surfaces, enabling the organisms to remain attached under tensional conditions and comparable to those found in a surgical environment. These qualities have indicated that this is a promising avenue of research in the hunt for more effective tissue adhesives for medical use, for example, surgery closures and bone glue, to replace painful traditional wound closure methods in the first case, and the use of metallic screws in the later one [6, 7]. 3. Need for tissue adhesive Anastomosis is the connection of two luminal such as arteries, vascular graft etc for their continuity. Tissue adhesive is a very useful agent for various surgeries, such as skin closure in wound care, vascular anastomosis, abdominal hernia as well as bone piece adhe112

Conventional adhesive alternatives to sutures for nerve anastomosis, such as Cyanoacrylates or Fibrin based surgical glues significantly reduce operating times. Cyanoacrylates provide excellent bonding strength between nerves, but potentially cause inflammation. Furthermore, Cyanoacrylates are known to release formaldehyde and cyanoacetate, inducing histo-toxic effects when used for internal applications. Fibrin glues bond quickly, but have mixed results in nerve anastomosis. Some human studies have reported positive clinical outcomes, while other groups have indicated an extremely high rate of dehiscence (bursting) and low bonding force postoperatively [8]. However, there arelimitations that restrict the use of these adhesives, i.e.,cyanoacrylate is not biodegradable and releasesformaldehyde upon degradation whichcauses chronic inflammation and delays woundhealing due to residual reactions [9]. The drawbacksconcerning fibrin adhesive are low bonding strengthfor load-carrying and flexible body parts, as wellas, its immunogenicity and risk of blood transmission diseases such as HIV and BSE, and its highprice cannot be afforded by many patients [10]. Thus biopolymers like chitin, chitosan, alginate, and hydrocolloids along with textile materials are versatile candidate in the area of tissue adhesive. These textile fibres based scaffolds provides all the properties required for ideal tissue adhesive. 4. Classification of bioadhesive Polymers [11, 12] Various polymers can be used as tissue adhesives. These polymers can be classified on the nature of their origin. 1) Natural polymers Natural bio-adhesives are polymeric materials that may consist of a variety of substances, but proteins and polysaccharides feature prominently. Many actives can be released via bio-adhesive as steroids, anti-inflammatory agents, pH sensitive peptides and small proteins such as insulin, and local treatments to alleviate pain. Polysaccharides and proteins are the biopolymer of natural origin, possessing many of the properties that are required for making a tissue adhesive. These polyJuly - August 2015


TEXNOTE mers have been investigated for many biomedical applications including tissue culture scaffolds, drug/gene delivery vectors, wound healing, and surgical adhesives. A) Protein based polymers: Collagen, Albumin, and Gelatin B) Polysaccharides: Alginates, Cyclodextrines, Chitosan, Dextran, Agarose, Hyaluronic acid, Starch, Cellulose etc.

C)

Polyamides: Polyiminocarbonates, Polyamino acids. D) Phosphorous Based polymers: Polyphosphates, Polyphosphonates, Polyphosphazenes. E) Others: Polycyanocrylates, Polyurethanes, Polyortho esters, Polyacetals. 5. Current Tissue Scaffold engineering techniques The scaffolds are used as a temporary supportstructure

Table 1: Natural polymers and their tissue adhesive application

Polysaccharides, proteins and their derivatives

Tissue adhesive application

Chitosan hydrogel premixed with a serum-free tissue culture medium (DMEM/F12)

Autologus skin grafts and accelerator in the wound healing

Chitosan hydrogel

Tissue adhesive hemostasis and wound healing

Gelatin, dextran, hydroxyethyl starch glue

Seal the wound tissue and stop the bleeding.

Gelatine and polysaccharides

Soft tissue adhesive

Polysaccharides based adhesive

Abdominal hernia

Polysaccharides based adhesive

Ophthalmology

Photocrosslinkable chitosan and PEG

Traumatic peripheral nerve injury

Gelatine based adhesive

Tissue adhesive

Injectable citrate-based mussel-inspired tissue bioadhesives

Wet strength for sutureless wound closure

2) Synthetic polymers A) Polyesters: Polylactic acid, Polyglycolic acid, Polyhydroxyl butyrate, Polycaprolactone, Poly Doxanones B) Polyanhydride: Polyadipic acid, Polyterphthalicacid, Polysebacic acid and various copolymers

allowing the tissues or cells to adhere, proliferate and differentiate to form a healthytissue for restoring the functionality. The scaffolds can be classified in to two differentcategories based on their shelf life. The two categories are permanent and temporary implants.Permanent scaffolds those that retain their shape and strength through the process ofregeneration

Table 2 Synthetic polymers and their tissue adhesive application (13)

Tissue adhesive application For tissueregeneration

Polyglycolide non-wovenfabric-fibrin glue composite matrix

A biocompatible dural substitute due to itsexcellent skin-closing ability

Polyglycolides(Biofix速)

Bone internal fixation devices

PLLA fibers

Scaffolding material for developing ligament replacement

PLLA fibers

Long-term blood vessel conduits

Poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (Vicryl Mesh速),

Skin replacement materials

PLGA-collagen matrix (CYTOPLAST Resorb速)

As a guidedtissue regeneration membrane.

Poly(trimethylene carbonate)

Soft tissue regeneration.

Poly lactic acid- hydroxyapatite

Porous scaffolds for cellular applications

July - August 2015

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Synthetic Polymer Polyglycolide as scaffolding matrices

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TEXNOTE or repair of the organ while the temporary scaffolds degrade over a period of timewith the regeneration of the organ or tissue [14].

vide optimal scaffoldpermeability for tissue in growth nor optimal connectivity to maximize regenerated tissue mechanical properties [14].

The structure of a scaffoldplays an important role in guiding tissue development. Three very general types of scaffold arestructural scaffolds with an imposed pore structure; gelatin type scaffolds formed in situ in thepresence of cells or tissues, and natural tissue derived gels.

SFF scaffold manufacturing methods provide excellent control over scaffold external shapeand internal pore interconnectivity and geometry, but offer limited micro-scale resolution.Currently, direct SFF fabrication is capable of producing global pores with a minimum featuresize of 100 ?m [14].

For regeneration of structural tissues, the scaffolds must possess several features that aredifficult to achieve using current manufacturing methods. Precise control of porosity andinternal pore architecture is necessary to maximize nutrient diffusion, interstitial fluid and blood flow, to control cell growth and function, to manipulate tissue differentiation, and to optimize scaffold mechanical function, and generated tissue mechanical properties [14].

5.1 Hydrogel technique for tissue adhesive The term hydrogel is composed of ''hydro''(water) and ''gel'' and it refers to aqueous (water-containing) gels or to be more precise topolymer networks that are insoluble in water where they swell to an equilibrium volume butretaining their shapes.The hydrophilicity of the network is due to thepresence of chemical residues such as hydroxylic(-OH), carboxylic (-COOH), amidic (-CONH-), primary amidic (-CONH 2), sulfonic (-SO 3H), andothers that can be found within the polymerbackbone or as lateral chains. Nevertheless, it is also possible to produce hydrogels containing asignificant portion of hydrophobic polymers, byblending or co-polymerizing hydrophilic andhydrophobic polymers, or by producing interpenetratingor semi-interpenetrating polymernet-works ofhydrophobic and hydrophilic polymers.

Conventional sponge scaffold manufacturing methods are capable of producing structures withlocally porous internal architectures from a various range of materials. Local pores arevoids characteristically defined by small struts and plates or spherical and tubular cavitiesgenerally less than 300 ?m in diameter. Local pores are interconnected within local regions ofthe scaffold microstructure. Solvent diffusion fromemulsions can yield oriented pore structures. Although these methods yieldinterconnected pores that may comprise a continuous conduit throughout a scaffold, the poreconnectivity is not an intentional result of an a prioriglobal design; rather, the connectivity is arandom product of variable, local void interconnections that are affected by polymerprocessing parameters. Such random connections may not pro-

As the existing techniques have considerable drawbacks, there is a clear need for an improved bonding agent in peripheral tissues. Ideally, such an adhesive would be prepared from biopolymers that are safe for chronic implantation, bond rapidly, provide a mechanically stable environment to support nerve healing, and preferably disappear once the anatomical continuity is restored. Additionally, the presence of such an adhesive should not impact nerve function [15].

Table 3 Biomedical and tissue engineering application of hydrogels [16]

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Intracorporal

Temporary devices

Burn dressing, surgical dressing, coatings for sutures

Semipermanent devices

Tubular devices, coatings for tubular devices andstents, artificial corneas,medicated and soft contact lenses, soft tissue substitutes and replacements, bone ingrowth sponges, sclerabuckling implants for retinal surgery, degradable drug delivery systems

Extracorporal Intracorporal

Coatings for tubing and catheters, diagnostic devices Temporary devices

Degradable scaffolds, temporal artificial skin substitutes, tissue barriers to prevent post operation adhesion.

Semipermanent devices

Long term degradable scaffolds, long termdegradable/nondegradable scaffolds

Extracorporal Simple devices 114

Coatings for cell culture devices/vessels July - August 2015


TEXNOTE 6. Conclusion The use of tissue adhesive to replace sutures is anexciting new approach in tissue engineering. The biopolymer based textile scaffolds claims to have a novel biocompatibletissue adhesive, with acceptable adhesion, and acceleratedtissue regeneration properties with topicalapplications. Research with epoxy resAbout the Authors Mr. Santosh Biranje is currently pursuing a Ph.D. (Tech.) in fibres and textile processing technology in the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under the guidance of Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are evaluation of detergency, bio-materials and tissue engineering. Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of specialty chemicals, Bio-materials and tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under

ins, acrylics and polyurethanes,to design an adhesive that would allowprompt and strong bonding have not proved usefulbecause of inadequate bonding strength and poor biocompatibility. Further, Biological tissue adhesives should beused with caution in since they inhibit new tissue formation, cause a foreign body reaction, and may impedefracture healing.

Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 100 papers in journals of national and International repute.

ANNOUNCEMENT THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Mumbai Unit organises

International Exhibition for Textile Industry Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Date: 16, 17 & 18th March, 2016 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 063, INDIA For more information & Stall booking please contact:

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 3rd Floor, 86 College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguese Church / Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel : 022- 2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax : 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com / taimu@mtnl.net.in / taimu@net9online.in Website:www.indiatex.co.in / www.textileassociationindia.com Haresh B. Parekh : Exhibition Convenor: +91-9167515676 Anil G. Mahajan : Exhibition Co-ordinator: +91-9324904271 July - August 2015

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UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India)

of the key objectives ofthe conference. There will be focus on the ways to fosterinvestment in the sector and importance of partnership tobring investment as well as technical know-how.

TAI - Delhi

National Textile Conference 2015 "Make in India: Destination Textiles" After the grand successful conferences in the past including the 1st Asian Textile Conference in the year 1991, the 7th Asian Textile Conference in 2003, 67th All India Textile Conference in 2012 and National Textile Seminar in 2013, The Textile Association (India) - Delhi Unit is organizing National Textile Conference 2015"Make in India: Destination Textiles"on 26th& 27th October, 2015 at PHD House, August Kranti Marg, New Delhi.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Textile industry plays a very important role in Indian economy as the domestic consumption and exports of textile and clothing amounts to approx. 6% of the GDP. This sector contributes to almost 12% of the total export earnings of the country and employs more than 100 million people, directly or indirectly. The textile and clothing market size has grown at acompounded rate of 12% per annum from US$ 66 billion in2009 to US$ 115 billion in 2014. The industry is projected to remain on a high growth path and reach US$ 535 billion by 2024-2025. The conference will focus on the importance of implementing the national program in Indian Textile Industry. It will be a mix of presentations and panel discussions involving renowned textile sector stakeholders of India.The conference will have deliberations on key topics to facilitate investment, foster innovation, enhance skill development, protect intellectual property and build Best-in-Class manufacturing infrastructure which is the underlying aim of 'Make in India' Campaign. The discussions will not only present India's manufacturing competitiveness in terms of raw material availability, manpower resources, technology and infrastructure but also delve on key growth constraints. Potential sectors for investment in India, unconventional markets and products forIndian investors to target will also be key points for discussionamong present stakeholders.Facilitation of investment in India is one 116

There are eminent speakers and the panelists who will present informative presentation on the theme. The 2 days Conference shall be long deliberations in theform of Industrial well as literaryinputs on the theme; therewill be a Cultural Programme in the evening by the youngstudents of prominent textile institutes in NCR Region. Therewill be a Fashion Show impressing upon the theme of theConference'Make in India Destination Textiles'. Apart fromthe Young Designers showcasing their creativity with fresh andrelevant fashion ideas, there will be a programme of Blitz andEntertainment. PLEASE BOOK THESE 2 DAYS.

TAI - M.P.

The Textile Association (India) Seminar on "Use & Maintenance of Card Wire & New Development of Card Room Accessories" The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unit jointly with Spinners Club & Lakshmi Card Clothing (LCC)organized a Technical Seminar on"Use & Maintenance of Card Wire &New Development of Card Room Accessories" on18-07-2015 in Conference room at Maral Overseas Ltd., one of India's largest vertically integrated textile companies.

Mr. Ashok Veda addressing the audience.

Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAI M.P. Unit welcomed all the dignitaries including Mr. Ashok Akade, Vice President-Technical, Maral Overseas, Mr. H.S. Padam, General Manager -Maintenance, Maral OverJuly - August 2015


UNIT ACTIVITY seas, Mr. Ramesh Menon, Deputy General Manager, Lakshmi Card Clothing (LCC), Mr. A.L. Ramu, LCC, Branch Head, Indore and Mr. Maheshwari, Dheeraj Deshmukh, Marketing Coordinator, Ashok & Company and all delegates. Mr. Ashok Veda in his welcome speech mentioned that the installations of sophisticated machinery in the mills are very necessary to update the user department at flow level. He also informed that the TAI M.P Unit has taken great initiative to address the new matters and developments on shop floor and itwill be continued to organize such dedicated seminars on various subjects like value added technical textiles of its kind. Mr. Ashok Akade informed that this type of system seminar will definitely benefite to flow level technician & this will help in productivity, maintenance, storing & other field for user department.

Mr. Ashok Akade welcoming Mr. Ashok Veda

Suggestion on behalf of Maral Overseas & with their co-operation this seminar was organized.Mr. Ramesh Menon has explained at length use of maintenance of CRD card room machine, storage & new development done by LCC.

Spinners Club gave the memento to Mr. Ashok Akadeji & Mr. H.S. Padam of M/s Maral Overseas &Mr. Ramesh Menon & Mr. Ramu of M/s Lakshmi Card Clothing

Texttreasure Before you are a leader, success is all about growing yourself. When you become a leader, success is all about growing others. Mr. Ashok Veda giving memento Mr. H.S.Padam, GM-Maintenance of Maral Overseas July - August 2015

- Jack Welch 117

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. R.B.Menon, DGM of Lakshmi Card Clothing giving memento to Mr. Ashok Akade, VP-Technical of Maral Overseas

The program is co-ordinated by all Maral seniority & TAI thanked to Mr. Maheshwariji & team for extending co-operation. Program was attended by around more than 50 peoples &was followed by Hi-Tea, hosted by Maral Overseas.


UNIT ACTIVITY

TAI - Jalgaon - Khandesh On Sunday, 25th January 2015, The Textile Association (India), Jalgaon-Khandesh Unit organized the Meeting of Members and Election of Office Bearers at Raisoni Engineering College, Jalgaon.

Before organizing this meeting, Unit members visited various industries & academic institutions on 15th &16th December, 2014 in Jalgaon, Dhule, Shirpur, Jalna & Buldhana regions. They visited Jawahar Shetkari Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd, Tech Sutre Industries Ltd, B.R. Fashions and SSVPS Polytechnic Dhule, Deesan Industries, Priyadarshini Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd, Centre for Textile Functions NMIMS Shirpur Campus, Lakshmi Cots Spinning Mills Jalna, Yashwant

Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd, Ambad in Jalna district,College of Engineering & Technology, Mangasasi Maharaj Spinning Mills, Chikhali in Buldhana District and they all have shown keen interest in the association activities. The details of members who have come from different

industries and academic institutions and attended the meeting are as under. All the present members were welcomed and felicitated by Dr.Prabhakar G.Bhat, All members made selfintroduction. Dr. P.G. Bhat delivered his keynote speech and discussed on Committee formation of Office Bearers. New Office Bearers were elected and the discussed on future plan of activities of Unit. Mr. M.M. Biradar proposed vote of thanks.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Details of New Office Bearers of Textile Association (India) - Khandesh Unit Jalgaon President

:

Vice President

:

Chairman Hon. Secretary Hon. Treasure

: : :

Dr. Prabhakar G. Bhat, Principal, G.H.Raisini Institute of Engineering & Management, Jalgaon Dr. Pramod P. Raichurkar, Associate Dean - Centre For Textile Functions, NMIMS Campus Shirpur Mr. Pramod Kachave, Principal, SSVPS Polytechnic, Dhule Mr. M.M. Biradar, Senior Manager, Raymond Limited, Jalgaon Dr. Vilas Patil, Principal, MNKCJ, Jalgaon

Also the following New Office Bearers for TAI Student Chapter, Jalgaon-Khandesh Unit was elected and it was to perform the activities from Centre for TextileFunctions, NMIMS Campus, Shirpur. 1) Chairman - Dr. Vishnu Dorugade, I/C Principal, Centre for Textile Functions, NMIMS Campus Shirpur 2) Secretary - Prof. Tushar Patil, Asst. Professor, Centre for Textile Functions, NMIMS Campus Shirpur 118

July - August 2015


NEWS

Core Yarn - a Challenge for Yarn Clearers

Garment made of elastic yarns offer a better comfort, they fit better, and retain their shapes. Core yarns, which are used for woven and knitted stretch fabrics, consist of at least two different components. During production a staple fibre - e.g. cotton - is spun around an elasthane filament. Today, duo-core yarns made of three components, which are used for high quality denim, are a challenge for the spinning and winding process. Clearing of Core Yarns The structure of core yarns is a special challenge during quality control. One of the typical faults is the socalled strip-back. Due to a slippage between the inner elasthane filament and the staple fibre the core is not completely covered with the cotton fibres. As elasthane and cotton have different characteristics during dyeing, these faults can become visible in the end product. The yarn clearer Zenit+ from Loepfe with the optional LabPack is able to identify these faults very reliably. The yarn clearer utilises an optical method to identify thin and thick faults during winding. The detection of dark foreign fibres is also realised with an optical method. An additional triboelectric sensor detects synthetic foreign matter, e.g. polypropylene originating from packaging material. Superior Optical Method Due to its optical method the Zenit+ guarantees a fast and reliable detection of typical yarn faults. Even the above-mentioned faults in core yarns can be identified. This gives the Zenit+ an advantage compared to capacitive yarn clearers, which basically detectonly the overall mass of the yarn. The Zenit+ can also monitor the splicing joints resulting in yarns with only perfect splicing joints. The yarn clearer monitors every single splicing joint and classifies them. The classification enables the monitoring of the splicing process itself, July - August 2015

and thereby identifies splicers, which are permanently producing non-optimal splice joints. Bild material Bild 1 (Schema aus Brosch端re Seite 16): Not perfectly spun core yarns result in a modified surface structure of the yarn.

Wrong spun into the fiber strand

Perfect spun into the fiber strand

Bild 2 (Core Yarn.jpg): A typical fault in core yarns results from the so-called strip-back.

Bild 3 (ProduktbildZenit+): The optical yarn clearer Zenit+ detects yarn faults in core yarns very reliably.

119

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Stretch fabrics become more and more popular in clothing industry. Not only sports fashion but also day-today garments have a better fit and retain their shapes, when elastic yarns are used. The so-called core yarns, which are used for stretch fabrics, are a challenge for the textile industry. For example during yarn clearing, which eliminates yarn faults during winding, faults in core yarns have to be detected very reliable. Optical yarn clearers, like the Zenit+ from Loepfe, offer the superior method for this application.


NEWS

5th International Textile Conference at SSM College of Engineering 5thInternational Textile Conference at SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Erode, (T.N.) The conference was organized jointly with the Textile Association (India), Erode unit on 13 th and 14 th August, 2015. The theme was 'Emerging Trends in Textile Industry -New Innovations 2015'. Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Technocrat and MD, Colorant Ltd, Ahmedabad was the Special Guest of Honour and Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, Vice-President, Business Development was the Key Note Speaker.

Dr. M.M. Mahapatra is delivering his speech

Mr. Bhargava spoke about the future of textile industries in India and abroad. He emphasized on need of innovation for the textile industry.He also gave hints about the prospects of dyes in textile market. Dr. Mahapatra spoke about the recent trends in Dyeing like Super Critical Carbon Dye oxide medium of dyeing polyester and the colorzen dyeing technology and salt free reactive dyeing for cotton. In the coming 510 years the Dyeing industry in India will see both the technologies being used in the Industry. Mr. Bhargava spoke about the future of textile industries in India and abroad. He emphasized on need of innovation for the textile industry.He also gave hints about the prospects of dyes in textile market. Dr. Mahapatra spoke about the recent trends in Dyeing like Super Critical Carbon Dye oxide medium of dyeing polyester and the colorzen dyeing technology and salt free reactive dyeing for cotton. In the coming 510 years the Dyeing industry in India will see both the technologies being used in the Industry. The chief guest of the conference was Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, SITRA and Cavalier Dr. M.S. Mathivanan presided over the function. Delegates from the textile industry, consultants, and students attended in large number.

Tabbie Award Presented to AATCC for Feature Article in AATCC Review AATCC has won yet another Tabbie award for an indepth feature article, published in the November/December 2014 issue of AATCC Review, written by feature writer Glenna Musante. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The annual Tabbie Awards are sponsored by Trade Association Business Publications International (TABPI). More than 400 editorial and design entries were submitted for the 2015 contest, with nominations coming from the US, Canada, UK, Australia, New Zealand, 120

Singapore, United Arab Emirates, and South Africa. "Mopping Up Disasters: Textiles Protect People and the Planet," was a "top ten" award winner, and represents the Association's 17th award for writing or publication design. As well as publishing original features on major topics of interest to professionals in the textile, apparel, and related industries,AATCC Review also contains technical articles, and AATCC news and information. Launched in January 2014, the AATCC Journal of Research, a sister publication, is exclusively for peerreviewed research papers.

July - August 2015


NEWS

Case Study Shree Balaji Yarns & Textiles (SBYT), Amritsar, established in 2012, is a Greenfield facility for yarn dyeing. SBYT's yarn is used to make products like shawls, stoles, scarfs and blankets. Soon after the

launch of Stalam-Deyi soft winders in India during ITME 2012, SBYT undertook extensive trials with different kinds of yarns on a pilot machine. This led them to go in for a winder with 108 (12x9) spindles. This first installation of Stalam-Deyi's soft package

Performance data

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Substrate

Blend %

Count

Diameter (mm)

Wool Wool Wool Wool Viscose Viscose Viscose Viscose Polyester/Wool Polyester/Wool Polyester/Wool Polyester/Wool Polyester/Wool Polyester/Cotton Polyester/Cotton Polyester/Cotton Polyester/Cotton Polyester/Cotton Modal/Viscose Modal/Viscose Modal/Viscose Modal/Viscose Modal/Viscose Modal/Viscose Cotton Cotton Cotton Cotton Polyester Polyester

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 60/40 60/40 60/40 60/40 52/48 52/48 52/48 52/48 52/48 55/45 55/45 55/45 55/45 55/45 55/45 55/45 100 100 100 100 100 100

1/64 1/64 1/64 1/64 2/40 2/40 2/40 2/40 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/30 1/30 2/80 2/80 2/80 2/80 2/80 2/80 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 2/30 2/30

175 175 175 175 188 185 188 188 181 183 180 180 180 185 180 180 190 185 186 186 187 187 187 186 190 190 190 190 187 188

July - August 2015

Package Traverse Weight (kg) (mm) 1028 146 1038 143 159 147 1020 143 1388 143 1394 145 1381 142 1383 143 1109 148 1170 150 1044 145 1048 150 1036 145 1377 143 1334 145 1311 143 1360 145 1364 143 1254 144 1258 142 1259 143 1255 142 1255 142 1254 144 1304 140 1315 142 1305 142 1319 142 1349 147 1347 148

Density 0.34 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.40 0.41 0.40 0.40 0.35 0.35 0.32 0.32 0.33 0.41 0.52 0.52 0.38 0.41 0.37 0.38 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.38 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.39 0.38

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

S. No.

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NEWS winder in India, is working exceptionally well and SBYT is very happy with its performance. Highlights Here are the highlights and the performance details of theStalam-Deyi soft package winder at SBYT. 1. Improved productivity - an average speed of 1,000RPM could be achieved on almost all types of yarn,thus increasing the productivity by 20% over othermachines at SBYT. 2. Uniform density - the density within each package,and also from package to package are uniform. 3. Consistency - the shape of yarn packages is goodand the edges are soft, which was not possible with SBYT's other machines. 4. User friendly - the staff and operators find machineoperation quite easy.

Thus, within a short span since their launch in India, Stalam-Deyi winders have clearly established their edge over othermakes of winders, both imported and local.

The Last Word "I am extremely happy with the performance of the Stalam-Deyi soft package winding machine in terms of productivity andquality. The yarn dyeing business in India is progressing, and A.T.E. has brought the right technology to our market", said Mr. Manish Mehra, Managing Director of Shree Balaji Yarns. Mr.MohinderAttri - VP (Technical) added, "The machine requires very little maintenance. We have not ordered a singlespare part since the installation two years back. Also, the reproducibility is much better as compared to other machines inour set-up."

For more information please contact: A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED T: +91- 22 - 6676 6100 E: processing@ateindia.com W: www.ateindia.com CIN: U51503MH2001PTC132921

Mr. Steven Lin is promoted to Sales Director China. Mr. Steven Lin is promoted to Sales Director China. The newly formed sales team has started their activities on first of July 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Steven Lin is promoted to Sales Director China. The newly formed sales team has started their activities on first of July 2015 SSM will modify their sales structure, in order to strengthen their position in the market of the P.R. China. The main objective is to get closer to their customers, without the use of any agency as intermediary. In this process, their longstanding sales representative in China, Mr. Steven Lin, is promoted to the position of Sales Director China.

existing and new sales managers. This new organization is effective as of July 1st, 2015. Despite the competitive situation in the textile machinery business, SSM has been able to maintain its market leadership and to excel within the holding company Schweiter Technologies. SSM will continue to strengthen its personnel, thereby retaining strong market position. SSM wishes Mr. Steven Lin lots of success in his new function and responsibility. For more information please contact SSM Sch채rer Schweiter Mettler AG, Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland Phone: +41 44 718 33 11, Fax: +41 44 718 34 51, info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch

Mr. Lin will lead a newly formed sales team with the 122

July - August 2015


NEWS

New Book Published Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications Dr. Roshan Paul is the Head of Research & Innovation of the Department of Function and Care at the Hohenstein Institute in Germany. He is an alumnus of the Institute of Chemical Technology in India and is a Chartered Colourist of the Society of Dyers and Colourists in the UK. Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications provide exhaustive coverage of denim manufacture, jeans washing, novel applications and environmental impacts. It also contains information on the history and social influence of denim, and includes the details relevant to the fashion and apparel industry. The topics covered are comprehensive with contributions from experts the world over, and the book is offered as an authentic reference book for any relevant information on denim.

This book provides a thorough comprehensive review of denim fabric manufacturing and finishing of jeans, washing technologies, noval applications and environmental impacts It includes details relevant to the fashion and apparel industry while maintaining a high level of technological content on spinning, dyeing, weaving, garments, washing, finishing and other applicationsAlso includes several contributions from industry experts A complete resource for technical managers in the textile, denim, garment, fashion, dyestuffs, textile chemicals, biotechnology, industrial laundry and textile machinery industries, as well as academic researchers and designers working on different aspects of textile and fashion technology. Author: Dr. R. Paul Pages:612 Published by: Woodhead Publishing Print Book ISBN:9780857098436 e-Book ISBN :9780857098498

New TENCEL速 fiber collection featuring Jeanologia's Innovative Garment Processing Technologies

TENCEL速 Dress Laser Stitch July - August 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The TENCEL速 24: Day into Night collection will debut at Kingpins in New York

TENCEL速 Skinny Jean Laser Close Up 123


NEWS everyone will see that it has taken TENCEL® chambray to another level. To create the collection's fresh take on classic product, Lenzing partnered with Jeanologia, a global leader in sustainable garment finishing technologies. Chambray indigo fabrics made with TENCEL® fiber provided the perfect canvas for these cutting-edge finishing techniques and resulted in aesthetics which previously would not have been possible to achieve.

TENCEL® Water Lily Dress

Lenzing, a worldwide leader in the production of cellulose fibers, will introduce a TENCEL® fiber indigo chambray collection called TENCEL® 24: Day into Night. The new ladies wear collection is a platform to showcase the breadth and beauty of "the" most recognizable type of fabrics made out of TENCEL®. This most modern of slants on TENCEL® is also in line within Lenzing's commitment to fiber innovation and environmental responsibility. "Introducing sustainable new ideas for the denim market requires collaboration across the entire supply chain including garment processing," says Tricia Carey, Director of Business Development for Denim. "The TENCEL® 24: Day into Night collection was a conscious effort to show that adopting the new environmentally responsible laundry techniques does not mean sacrificing aesthetic excellence, indeed we hope that

"The true beauty of these special chambray fabrics goes well beyond the surface," says Enrique Silla, Jeanologia co-founder. "Years of innovation have gone into producing both the fiber and the finishing technologies. It is 20 years since we first worked with TENCEL® fibers and this collection has surpassed anything we have previous produced which is proof that we do not have to sacrifice the product to be green." The TENCEL® 24: Day into Night collection uses complementary fiber blends across five fabrics made out of TENCEL® fibers. Bases provided by Artistic Fabric Mill in Pakistan and Korat in Turkey. The collection showcases a versatile flow of garment styles from bottoms into tops, casual into formal, and day into night. Lenzing's focus on the denim market allows them to work closely with companies across the supply chain to effectively create new fabrics and products and get them to market quickly. For further information please contact: Tricia Carey, Director of Business Development for Denim E-mail: t.carey@lenzing.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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124

July - August 2015


NEWS

Good result for first half of year

Rieter achieved a significant increase in sales and profitability in the first half of2015. Sales rose by 6% to 553.9 million CHF. As a result, the EBITDA marginamounted to 11.9% and the EBIT margin to 8.3% of sales (compared to 9.3% and5.5%, respectively, in the first half of 2014). Net profit rose to 29.1 million CHF or5.3% of sales (compared to 14.3 million CHF or 2.7% of sales in the first half of 2014). Since January 1, 2015, Rieter has been conducting its operations in three business groups: Machines & Systems (machinery business), After Sales (spare parts and services) and Components (technology components). The company is thus also taking account in particular of the strategic importance of the after-sales business and improving transparency. With the figures for the first half of 2015, Rieter is reporting results on the basis of this new structure for the first time. Rieter posted pleasing growth in sales on the back of its large order backlog at thestart of the year. Compared to the same period of the previous year, sales rose by 6%to 553.9 million CHF (522.1 million CHF in the first half of 2014). The disproportionately high increase in profitability is especially pleasing: EBITD Arose by 36% to 66.0 million CHF, corresponding to 11.9% of sales (compared to 9.3%in the first half of 2014). EBIT rose by 60% to 46.1 million CHF; the EBIT marginincreased from 5.5% to 8.3% of sales. This reflects the positive development in thethree business groups and the effects of the cost-reduction measures which Rieterlaid down and implemented as a response to the scrapping of the minimum exchangerate of the euro in January 2015. The gain on the sale of a property amounting to 5.0million CHF also contributed to the satisfying result. There was an improvement in Rieter's financial result (-4.7 million CHF compared to -7.3 million CHF in the first half of 2014); the tax ratio was 29.7% (compared to 33.5% in the first half of 2014). On account of the favorable trend of these two parametersalong with the improvement in EBIT, the group's net result rose significantly to 29.1million CHF or 5.3% of sales (compared to 14.3 million CHF or 2.7% of sales in July - August 2015

thefirst half of 2014). Rieter's capital expenditure in the period under review totaled 7.3 million CHF, a good40% less than the corresponding figure in the first half of 2014. Research anddevelopment spending increased slightly to 22.9 million CHF (compared to 21.5million CHF in the first half of 2014). Net working capital increased by 37.5 million CHF in the first half year of 2015,although inventories were reduced. This development is due to an increase in tradereceivables and a reduction in trade payables as well as advance payments fromcustomers. Free cash flow amounted to -5.1 million CHF (compared to -2.9 millionCHF in the first half of 2014). After payment of a dividend of 20.6 million CHF (4.50 CHF per share) out of thereserve from capital contributions and the repayment of a bond issue totaling 151.9million CHF in April 2015, cash and cash equivalents at Rieter amounted to 257.6million CHF and net liquidity to 139.0 million CHF as of June 30, 2015. Rieter is soundly financed and has an equity ratio of 42.7%. The market situation forecast by Rieter at the results press conference held in Marchproved to be true for the first half of 2015. Spinning mills performed at a healthy levelin many key markets and this had a positive effect on order intake and sales for theAfter Sales and Components business groups. For the Machines & Systems BusinessGroup, subdued investment demand from customers was clearly apparent. This trendis due to spinning mills' low margins on the one hand, and to global currency turbulenceon the other. These developments, however, did not lead to an increase in ordercancellations in the period under review. Asian markets continued to develop at the good level of the previous year during thefirst half of 2015. Compared to the strong first half of 2014, a significant drop in orderswas recorded above all in Turkey, while customers in India continued to invest at asolid level. In China, the market remained subdued. As expected, order intake (388.3 million CHF) was therefore lower than in the second half of 2014 (490.6 million CHF) and the first half of 2014 (655.5 million CHF). As of June 30, 2015, the order backlog amounted to around 540 million CHF (December 31, 2014: around 730 million CHF). 125

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sales up on previous year - EBIT margin of over 8% - all threebusiness groups contributed to success - vigorous implementation of the STEPUP program started in 2014


NEWS Rieter employed a workforce of 5 150 as of June 30, 2015, compared to 4 835 a year earlier. This increase is mainly due to the rise in the number of employees in the Czech Republic. The number of additional temporary employees was reduced by Rieter to 871 (or 14.5% of the entire workforce) by the middle of the year, against the backdrop of the lower volume of orders; in comparison, there were 1 265 temporary employees (or 20.7% of the entire workforce) in the first half of 2014. Business Groups The trend in sales was positive in all three business groups. Machines & Systems wasresponsible for 71% of sales, and After Sales and Components for 13% and 16%,respectively.Machines & Systems increased sales by 4% to 392.7 million CHF (compared to 376.1million CHF of sales in the first half of 2014), and After Sales by 17% to 69.6 millionCHF (compared to 59.6 million CHF in the first half of 2014). At Components, sales tothird parties grew by 6% to 91.6 million CHF (compared to 86.4 million CHF in thefirst half of 2014). Segment sales, i.e. including deliveries to Machines & Systems,dropped slightly (by 4%) to 125.4 million CHF (compared to 130.1 million CHF duringthe first half of 2014). All business groups contributed to the positive trend in profitability. At the Machines & Systems Business Group, EBIT rose by 62% to 17.2 million CHF(compared to 10.6 million CHF in the first half of 2014). This corresponds to an EBITmargin of 4.4% of sales (compared to 2.8% in the first half of 2014). After Sales increasedEBIT by 60% to 13.6 million CHF or 19.5% of sales (compared to 8.5 millionCHF or 14.3% of sales in the first half of 2014). Components increased EBIT by 13%to 16.0 million CHF and the EBIT margin improved to 12.8% of segment sales(compared to 14.1 million CHF and 10.8% in the first half of 2014). Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Trends in demand differed at the three business groups. The demand for technology components was very satisfying. The ComponentsBusiness Group posted order intake amounting to 97.6 million CHF, up by 9% on thefirst half of 2014 (89.2 million CHF). Orders from India and other Asian countries forthe EliTe compact spinning system were pivotal to this increase in demand. Ordersreceived by the Machines & Systems Business Group during the first half of 2015amounted to 225.5 million CHF (compared to 493.5 million CHF during the first half of2014), representing a consider126

able decline. At After Sales, order intake amounted to65.1 million CHF compared to 72.8 million CHF during the first half of 2014, a drop of11%; this reduction was principally due to fewer orders for installation services, whichitself is linked to the reduced order intake at Machines & Systems. Priorities for 2015 The company worked intensively during the first half of 2015 on the implementationof the three strategic priorities which it set out in fall last year. The implementationprogram is known as STEP UP. Boosting innovative capability The increased expenditure on research and developmentduring the period under review was mainly directed at the completion of importantproduct development projects, which will be presented in November at theITMA textile machinery trade fair in Milan. Expanding after-sales business Rieter is in the process of positioning its important,longestablished service facilities on the market as an independent business. With acomprehensive range of services covering the entire product life cycle, the companyaims to support customers in the operation of their systems and thereby enhance theircompetitiveness. Rieter's after-sales business focuses on the growing global spinning capacities ofcustomers operating Rieter machines and systems. The Machines & SystemsBusiness Group is focusing increasingly on systems expertise and flexibility inresponse to fluctuations in demand. The Components Business Group also suppliescomponents, spare parts and wearing parts to other textile machinery manufacturersand their customers. In April 2015, Rieter opened China's first, and the world's most state-of-the-art, technologycenter for shortstaple spinning at its Changzhou site. This marks the completionof Rieter's expansion in China. The spinning center provides services includingspinning trials for customers, customer training and technology trials. As a result,Rieter's technological know-how is now also available to customers in China and thesurrounding countries. Increasing profitability Rieter has initiated short-, medium- and long-term measuresto further reduce its exposure to the Swiss franc and generally to improve efficiency. Aseries of measures activated at short notice already had a costreducing effect in thefirst half of 2015, and was thus July - August 2015


NEWS

Events after balance sheet date In the context of focusing on its core business, Rieter has sold the Schaltag Group,consisting of Schaltag AG Rieter at a glance

CHF million Rieter Orders received Sales Operating result before interest, taxes, depreciationand amortization (EBITDA) - in % of sales Operating result before interest and taxes (EBIT) - in % of sales Net profit - in % of sales Earnings per share CHF Capital expenditures on tangible and intangible assets Number of employees at the end of the period (excluding temporary personnel) Business Group Machines & Systems Orders received Sales Operating result before interest and taxes (EBIT) - in % of sales Business Group After Sales

(Switzerland) and Schaltag CZ s.r.o. (Czech Republic), to aprivate Swiss investor group with an industrial background. Schaltag and Rieter willcontinue to cooperate in the field of switchgear cabinet manufacturing. The partieshave agreed not to disclose the purchase price. Outlook There was a healthy trend in demand for products and

January July January June2015 December June 2014 2014

Change1

Change in local currencies1

-41% 6%

-40% 7%

388.3 553.9

490.6 631.3

655.5 522.1

66.0 11.9% 46.1 8.3% 29.1 5.3% 6.36

77.0 12.2% 55.8 8.8% 38.6 6.1% 8.40

48.4 9.3% 28.8 5.5% 14.3 2.7% 3.12

7.3

29.7

12.5

-42%

5150

5004

4835

7%

225.5 392.7 17.2 4.4%

339.8 477.4 30.0 6.3%

493.5 376.1 10.6 2.8%

-54% 4%

-55% 3%

Orders received Sales Operating result before interest and taxes (EBIT) - in % of sales Business Group Components

65.1 69.6 13.6 19.5%

67.8 67.9 11.5 16.9%

72.8 59.6 8.5 14.3%

-11% 17%

-9% 19%

Orders received Sales Total segment sales Operating result before interest and taxes (EBIT) - in % of segment sales

97.6 91.6 132.0 16.0 12.8%

83.1 86.0 130.1 18.4 13.9%

89.2 86.4 -4% 14.1 10.8%

9% 6% 4%

18% 14%

1. Change January - June 2015 vs. January - June 2014. July - August 2015

127

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

a contributory factor in increasing profitability. In thecoming months, measures aimed at reducing the volume of purchases in Swiss francsand streamlining the production structure in Winterthur will be of primary concern.


NEWS services provided by After Sales and Components in the first six months of the year. By contrast, Machines & Systems' markets were characterized by spinning mills' reluctance to invest. In Rieter's view, the market situation will remain essentially unchanged in the short term. The company expects sales for the whole of 2015 to be lower than in 2014. Consequently, EBIT and net profit are expected to be lower than in 2014. Depending on the effective currency scenario, the negative impact on operating profitability is unchanged estimated in the range of 100 to 200 basis points compared to 2014. In order to achieve its medium-term targets, Rieter continues to work on the implementation of its strategic priorities of innovation, expansion of the after-sales business and improvement of profitability. Semi-annual report and telephone conference You will find the full text of the semi-annual report and the media release atwww.rieter.com (http:// www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/).You can also register at www.rieter.com to receive our media releases regularlyby e-mail. Today Rieter will hold an investor and analyst confer-

ence call on the occasion of thepublication of the SemiAnnual Results 2015 at 2 pm CET. More details and the correspondingpresentation can be found on our website. Future dates ◆ Publication of sales figures for the 2015 financial year: February 2, 2016 ◆ Results media conference and presentation for financial analysts on the 2015 annual financial statements: March 16, 2016 ◆ Annual General Meeting: April 6, 2016 For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Rieter Management Ltd. Investor Relations Media Relations JorisGröflin Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 E-mail: investor@rieter.com Cornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 F +41 52 208 70 60 E-mail: media@rieter.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. Celebrating 5 Years of Successful Journey Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. started this journey with limited resources in year 2010 & today they are extremely proud to be a major consultancy firm in India making their strong mark in the industry. The major contribution to their success goes to our concept of providing "one stop solution" from conceptualization to implementation of the project; offering various services like market research, business strategy, financial closure, master planning, architectural services, structural designing, utility designing, construction management, process management and overall project management etc. Today, they are team of almost 50 professionals catering to various sectors like textile, technical textiles, foods, hospitality & infrastructure. Initially they have started the journey with Textile as a core segment & 128

gradually diversified their services into other sectors like Foods, Hospitality & Infrastructure. Till date they have completed approximately 200 assignments including 9 international assignments. In their successful journey, they have worked with valued customers like Grasim (Aditya Birla Group), Welspun, JCT Ltd., Trident Group, Indo Count & many more. They are currently working on prestigious projects with VHM Industries Ltd., Bharat Wire Ropes &Satara Mega Food Park. Internationally, they are working on two big size projects of denim & knit processing unit in Angola (Africa). Suvin is the only Indian organization to be a part of this prestigious deal to offer the services of market research, technology selection, project management, operational assistance, erection & commissioning and training to workers. Suvin would like to assist the industry in meeting the dynamic demands of the rapidly expanding global and domestic industry at competitive levels for sustainable growth with its profound knowledge base & strong support of internationally trained consultants. Their key July - August 2015


NEWS strengths will be always the priority to customer needs, ground-breaking ideas, market oriented approach, scientific project planning & execution and result oriented practical solutions which give themupper hand over their competitors.

trained with international technology is the need of the industry. They have smartly identified the strong need of efficient manpower for the industry. With highest level of dedication & proficiency, they are all set to fulfill huge demand of the textile industry.

Suvin is always in continuous efforts for overall growth of textile industry. Today, High skilled workforce

Let us carve out ‌ better tomorrow‌

The new ZinserRing 72 ring spinning machine from Zinser - Proven technology on course for a successful future What is the best equipment for textile companies that want to grow? Zinser answered this pressing question with proven technology on course for a successful future - the Zinser 72 series, which combines decades of experience and acknowledged reliability with innovative performance. The new Zinser Ring 72 ring spinning machine and the Zinser Impact 72 compact spinning machine offer spinning mills a highly productive and commercially compelling platform for increased growth and profitability.

the new ring spinning machines for high productivity and efficiency as well as outstanding yarn quality. High-speed, economical production on up to 1,920 spindles With up to 1,920 spindles, the Zinser Ring 72 produces yarn extremely economically, which increases profit. At a production capacity of 30,000 spindles comprising roving frames, ring spinning and winding machines, production costs fall by 9% compared with machines with 1,200 spindles. Its footprint is 12% smaller. The Zinser Ring 72 utilises the available production space to the greatest effect, ensuring a quick return on investment. Similar savings can be achieved with the Zinser Impact 72 compact spinning machine, which can be fitted with up to 1,728 spindles.

For strong growth Ring spinning mills in textile growth markets currently enjoy excellent prospects if they resolutely pursue their market strategy. The new Zinser 72 product family gives companies the necessary thrust to realise ambitious growth plans successfully. The Zinser experts have created the optimum technological basis for promising quantitative and qualitative growth strategies with a quick return on investment with the Zinser Ring 72 and Zinser Impact 72. Zinser has consistently designed July - August 2015

2015_07_10_Zinser_Impact FX

Spinning at high speed Thanks to its sophisticated machine concept, the new spinning machines spin at up to 25,000 rpm at all spindles. It is a marathon machine, delivering full power 129

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2015_07_10_Zinser_Zinser Ring 72


NEWS over its entire length. The sensor-controlled drive technology guarantees top speeds and the lowest yarn break rates. Shift for shift, the high delivery speeds of the Zinser 72 series offer more yarn. Thanks to rings that can be centred, high-speed spindles and the high-speed spinning software OptiStep, the ring spinning machines produce perfect bobbins with more yarn and optimal unwinding properties in the package winding department. For growing companies, this means: a guaranteed ability to deliver, even with high order spikes. Energy requirement reduced to 55% The new ring spinning machines saves energy. The bilateral suction system at the machine ends in combination with the tried-and-tested OptiSuction yarn break suction system reduces energy requirements to 55% of what would normally be needed. Economical down to the last detail The Zinser 72 series is economical down to the last detail. Bilateral pneumatic filter screen cleaning reduces the need for operating staff. Increasingly expensive fibre raw materials are also conserved. The material accumulated can be prepared afresh and spun again. Rival compact spinning machines do not offer this option.

Constant and reproductive yarn quality on all machines In today's demanding growth markets, constant, reproducible quality is the key to success. On the new ring spinning machines you can spin standard ring and compact yarns, siro yarns and fancy yarns of uniform quality, because the Zinser 72 series leaves nothing to chance. All spinning parameters and machine components such as the spindle drive, Fancy Draft and the automatic doffer CoWeMat are set centrally at the EasySpin touchscreen. Imprecise mechanical settings are a thing of the past thanks to ServoDraft, the electronic drafting system. Every spindle and every machine thus produces identical, precisely defined yarn quality. Constant and reproductive yarn quality on all machines In today's demanding growth markets, constant, reproducible quality is the key to success. On the new ring spinning machines you can spin standard ring and compact yarns, siro yarns and fancy yarns of uniform quality, because the Zinser 72 series leaves nothing to chance. All spinning parameters and machine components such as the spindle drive, FancyDraft and the automatic doffer CoWeMat are set centrally at the EasySpin touchscreen. Imprecise mechanical settings are a thing of the past thanks to ServoDraft, the electronic drafting system. Every spindle and every machine thus produces identical, precisely defined yarn quality.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sophisticated details also improve process reliability: the Zero Underwinding concept renders additional cleaning cycles unnecessary. Wharve cleaning can be dispensed with.

2015_07.10_Zinser_CoWeMat

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ZinserImpact 72: the most efficient compact spinning technology The ZinserImpact 72 is equipped with the world's most efficient compact spinning technology. Compared with drum systems, the innovative system is self-cleaning. The milling effect at the deflection point of the compact apron prevents dirt particles and fibre fragments from becoming lodged in the openings in the apron. This has two advantages. It is more productive for a start: yarn production can be increased without the need for staff-intensive cleaning rocketing, Spinning, not cleaning. In the second place, the yarn quality is constant from the first to the last spindle, as the compact power remains at the level set initially. Word has got around about this benefit, and some manufacturers July - August 2015


NEWS of drum systems have gone over to alleviating the soiling problems on their machines using additional components.

Uncouple growth from the labour requirement with CoWeMat The efficiency ratings of the Zinser 72 series are boosted further when the fastest, most reliable doffer in the world, the ZinserCoWeMat, comes into the equation. The original CoWeMat reduces the need for operators on a ring spinning machine. For companies geared to growth, this means: growing without labour resources. The original CoWeMat performs its work reliably and without interruption. The system has six safeguards:

laser light barrier for automatic take-off monitoring Bobbin Tray belt system for accurate conveying without recalibration secure cutting of coarse and highly tear-resistant yarns highly precise start-up for minimal yarn breaks

The CoWeMat is so flexible that the Zinser engineers have a customised, perfectly configured automation solution ready for every situation on site. The CoWeMat is used as a standalone version or directly linked to the winding machine. On the standalone version, the CoWeFeed unsorted tube feed eliminates manual presorting of the tubes. This alone yields a substantial reduction in the labour requirement. Direct linkage to the winding machine means that bobbins and empty tubes no longer have to be transported by staff. Transportation is handled by the secure, efficient and reliable Zinser Bobbin Tray system. This full automation separates any growth in sales completely from the labour resources required.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

a safety membrane in the gripper prevents doffing stops autonomous pneumatic system for greater process reliability laser light barrier for automatic take-off monitoring Bobbin Tray belt system for accurate conveying without recalibration secure cutting of coarse and highly tear-resistant yarns highly precise start-up for minimal yarn breaks a safety membrane in the gripper prevents doffing stops autonomous pneumatic system for greater process reliability

For further information please contacts: Birgit Jansen Communication Zinser Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60, 52531 Übach-Palenberg Germany T +49 2451 905 28 75 birgit.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2015_07_10_Zinser_Reduced production costs

Designed in Germany for the markets of the future With the Zinser Ring 72 and the Zinser Impact 72, companies on a growth trajectory have a reliable, powerful and economical production platform at their disposal. Designed in Germany, this generation of machines is for companies that aim to join the ranks of the premier league.

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion July - August 2015

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Vastrajet Goes Southwards Live Demo at Knit Show in South India â—† â—† â—†

Most textile mills seek digital printers with capacity of around 4,000 metres per day AIVC technology ensures that inks constantly give high production and best results New bundled software offers up to 20 percent on cost saving in inks.

makes high printing precision possible. The new bundled software offers up to 20 percent on cost saving in inks, thus providing a lower cost of production. "Apart from the price being very competitive, since our digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in India itself, buyers of our machines are eligible for various subsidies and benefits offered by the Government of India under EPCG, TUF and MSME schemes," ColorJet Director, Mr. Pavan Gupta explains. "Additionally, combined with our excellent after sales service, users of our digital printers get access to immediate availability of critical spares, due to the manufacturing facility being located in India, an option not available from companies who import and market printers in India," Mr. Gupta adds.

ColorJet, the largest manufacturer of digital inkjet printers from India is participating at the Knit Show being held in Tirupur from August 9-11, 2015, which is one of largest garment fashion accessories fabrics & machineries show at stall no. M8.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Knit-Show is a unique exhibition that has captured the imagination of the textile industry in India. The Vastrajet digital textile printer from ColorJet, after a spate of success stories in Surat, is geared up to help Southern India mills in Tirupur attain economies of scale by reducing turnaround time.Exhibiting its stateof-the-art machinery, ColorJet will showcase a live demonstration of its flagship digital textile printer, Vastrajet.

ColorJet technology has unmatchable advantages in handling high-precision patterns in gradient colour change and clouding and deliver, low energy consumption, pollution-free production and huge savings on water consumption. ColorJet designs, manufactures and integrates every component of its printers like inks, print heads, chassis & the control system to ensure maximum quality, reliability and uptime combined with low total cost of ownership. Digital Fabric Printing with ColorJet is by far one of the most exciting developments in the textile industry. Not only does it open up endless opportunities for customization and experimentation but it also puts textile printing within the budget of the user.

The high end printer is suitable for varieties of fabric like cotton, silk, wool, polyester and blends and is done with the ultimate aim to inspire new ideas, drive creativity, boost productivity and enable new business models.

ColorJet digital textile printers have been installed at several textile fabric process houses across the globe and have gained the trust of the user community, due to the robustness of its printers and also the excellent after sales service and support. ColorJet will also be showcasing its latest technology in ITMA 2015, Milan at Hall no 18, Stall H-102.

The super-fast Vastrajet printer with a supersonic production speed of 4,000 metres per day meets the normal daily requirements of a regular textile printing process house. This has been made possible from the specially designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance to match the high jetting frequency. The mechanical structure is excellently designed to handle high speed production and precise dot placements. The proprietary AIVC technology ensures that ColorJet Inks constantly gives brilliant production and

For More details please contact: Arun Rao Taurus Communications Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net Smarth Bansal Brand Manager ColorJet India Ltd. Cell: +91 98102-39602, Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

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ITAMMAs' 14th Product-cum-Catalogue Show

Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA) has successfully organized its 14th Product - Cum -Catalogue Show on 4th July, 2015 at the Hotel Fortune Pandian, Madurai. The show was inaugurated by Mr. TRS Karthikeyan, Managing Director, Aruppukottai Sri Jayavilas Mills Ltd. The trade show received an overwhelming response with 45 exhibitors participating, and over 650 visitors attending the show.Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA) has successfully organized its 14th Product - Cum -Catalogue Show on 4th July, 2015 at the Hotel Fortune Pandian, Madurai. The show was inaugurated by Mr. TRS Karthikeyan, Managing Director, Aruppukottai Sri Jayavilas Mills Ltd. The trade show received an overwhelming response with 45 exhibitors participating, and over 650 visitors attending the show. Why at Madurai? "Madurai" a hub of the textile industry in Tamil Nadu Coimbatore is the most important centre having 200 mills out of Tamil Nadu's 439 mills and is known as Manchester of South India. But Tamil Nadu's mills are of smaller size and give comparatively less production. Other important centres are Rajapalayam, Madurai, Tirunelveli, Arrupukottai, Salem, Tuticorin, etc. July - August 2015

Loyal Textile Mills Ltd., has four spinning mills located at Kovilpatti (5 spinning blocks with over 56,600 spindles and 1680 open-end rotors including Autocoro with Corolab), Sattur (60,128 spindles and produces 31,000 kgs/day; and Murata and Peas Metler parallel winding machine, 60 TFO machines, 160 drums RITE gassing machines and 720 drums of winding machines), Arasanur (11760 spindles producing 7000 kgs/day, and 5 Rieter Openend machines of 360 rotors each, producing 10000 kgs). Over the years, Madurai has grown as a leading hub for Textile Manufacturing, and occupies a vital position in the industrial scenario of Tamil Nadu. There are various kinds of Mills located around Madurai producing Spindles and drums of winding machines. Keeping this mind, ITAMMA decided to conduct the Product- Cum- Catalogue Show in Madurai, which also attracted visitors from neighboring cities like,Tirunelveli, Dindigul, Arrupukottai, Thirunelveland Rajapalayam. Thus it conveys that the potential for spinning sector was remarkable which was followed by weaving industry. Details of the Show â—† The 14th Product -Cum- Catalogue Show conducted by Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA), provided an ideal platform to the textile user industry of Madurai to interact with the suppliers (Manufacturers, Dealers and Traders) of textile machines and accessories. During the show the 133

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Mr. TRS Karthikeyan, Managing Director, Aruppukottai Sri Jayavilas Mills Ltd inaugurating the Catalogue Show

Mr. S. Senthil Kumar, President, ITAMMA offering memento to Mr. TRS Karthikeyan, Managing Director, Aruppukottai Sri Jayavilas Mills Ltd.


NEWS

Also the show has recorded the same trend of response from our member exhibitors where out of total 45 Exhibitors about 60% exhibited products and catalogues dealing with Spinning Industry, which was followed by 25 % from Weaving Industry.

The foot fall of the visitors were more than 650 which were about 60% from Spinning Industry, 20% from Weaving Industry, 10% from Wet Processing and 10% from allied Industry. Further, 30-40% was decision making, 50% were technicians and sales person and about 5% were from research associations &colleges like SITRA, Kumarguru, PSG etc.

Key Take Away

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Visitors for the Show ◆

ITAMMA member exhibitors expressed their satisfaction through the feedback survey recording about 85-90% putting their remarks as "excellent" for this show.

The flow of visitors was 500 stagnant for about 2-3 hours, thus conveying the message of their interest in knowing the products of our members and spending their valuable time in fruitful business interaction with our member exhibitors.

The co-operation through financial assistance extended by few of our members like Basant Wire Industries Pvt. Ltd (Jaipur), Super Tex Industries (Mumbai), Simta Machinery Pvt. Ltd (Coimbatore), Caretex Engineers (Coimbatore) has helped us to present the show at the world class standard within the budgetary expenses.

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Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion

visitors of the Textile Industry of Madurai got an opportunity to get the information of the quality products of Machines & Accessories from the field of Spinning, Weaving & Wet Processing.

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NEWS

LIVA Partnering Growth mechanism and is based on five strategic pillars namely:

LIVA and LAPF partner display

The following have played a very important role in bringing the LIVA dream alive ◆

Reputed fashion Brands - who launched the SS15 collections in many styles and designs which highlighted the brand's essence of natural fluid fashion

LIVA Accreditation Partner Forum (LAPF) Members - who delivered innovative and high performance fabrics

Designers - the collection rolled out by the designers are a testament to the great potential the brand has for women's wear

Birla Cellulose understood that the textile value chain had more scope for development in terms of technology and processes similar to those in China, Turkey etc.. It was essential to bring together different players of the value chain under one platform for successful delivery of LIVA promise. To bridge this gap and make the process more streamlined and effective, LIVA Accreditation Partner Forum (LAPF) was also launched. LAPF is a community of Spinners, Fabricators, & Processors who work closely with Birla Cellulose on innovation, quality & technology to deliver Liva fabrics to consumers. LIVA Accredited Partner Forum has certification July - August 2015

Team LIVA & LAPF partners

1.

Design and development support - To keep up with the latest fashion trends, Birla Cellulose supports their partners with innovation and fashion forecasts

2.

Technical Support - With an efficient team of professionals, Birla Cellulose is all well- equipped to help their partners in product perfection

3.

Vendor Management Support - Their partners are linked to the finest sources for regular and innovative yarns, fabrics & garments

4.

Global Marketing & Buyer Links - To aid further growth, Birla Cellulose connects their partners to buyer contacts across the value chain

5.

Market Information support - To meet the increasing market demands, Birla Cellulose keeps their partners well-informed on consumer insights and market dynamics

Taking the LIVA Accredited Partner Forum initiative ahead, Birla Cellulose has decided to partner its LAPF members across the country. Keeping in line with this, at the recently organised Kolkata Fashion Expo 2015 where leading manufacturers, wholesalers and buyers attended in credible numbers in Kolkata on 12th& 13th August, LIVA stall was represented by the following LAPF members 1.

RadhikaTexprint, Surat - A frontrunner in sarees and dress materials, showcased Modal in brilliant colours as an innovation of LIVA for the premium and mass markets. Mr. Mitesh Korat, owner of Radhika Texprint explained, "We are very happy to be a part of LIVA Accredited Partner Forum and have achieved tremendous success with our newly 135

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The textile fraternity saw the launch like no other. Birla Cellulose did a grand launch of its fabric brand, LIVA with their new stylish brand ambassador Kangana Ranaut on 12th& 13th August, 2015 at Kolkata Fashion Expo. To play a key role in producing excellent fabric to the fore, LIVA is an endeavour to reach out to the end consumer with a quality offering that is in line with current fashion trends. LIVA has already been well received in the markets, so much so that in SS15, LIVA-tagged garments were made available with major retail brands, spread across 84 cities in India with visual merchandise in 500 stores to enhance the consumer experience.


NEWS launched saree brand HAWWAH in which we have had intricate designs with LIVA fabric. We got such a great response at the Kolkata Fashion Expo that we are planning to we will be opening up an outlet or appointing a franchisee for Kolkata in the next 6 months". 2.

3.

Jayraj Marketing, Surat - A leading manufacturer of jacquard fabrics. Mr. Jayraj Gajiwala - Managing Director expressed that this partnership with LIVA will go a long way. He added "Response to LIVA has been fantastic and we really appreciate Birla Cellulose for giving us this opportunity to showcase our exquisite LIVA fabrics along with other LAPF Members". Gokultex Prints, Surat - An innovation leader in natural fabrics, shared its exquisite collection in pure Modal, Cupro Modal in manifold weaves, designs and prints which were accentuated by LIVA fabrics.

4.

Dayal Silk & Wonder crafts, Bhagalpur - shared their fine collection of LIVA sarees and scarves respectively.

5.

Rahul Traders, Kolkata & Sukanta Paul, Fulia - Showcased LIVA sarees in brilliant colours as an innovation of LIVA for the premium and mass markets.

"Kolkata market is one of the most responsive market for LIVA through innovations and the vast distribution of market leaders "said Mr. Aseem Doda, Vice President - Hub Marketing, Birla Cellulose. The spark for this initiative was ignited by the fact that there is a huge potential for Indian traditional clothing which Birla Cellulose foresees. The company feels, that in order to increase awareness and brand visibility, they need to get aggressive in-terms of marketing ethnic wear and this opportunity can be provided by LIVA. Many domestic and international buyers are continuously showing keen interest in LAPF as they want to avail the benefits for sourcing quality products. Their interest shows trust and faith in LAPF where customers benefit from their relentless efforts to bring direction, quality and substance without compromising fashion. To find out more about LIVA, LAPF and its associated programmes, write/talk to: Aseem Doda - + 91 8108333641 aseem.doda@adityabirla.com Nikhil Sukthankar - +91 9702036462 nikhil.sukthankar@adityabirla.com

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Central Office

WE HAVE SHIFTED

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

From Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: +91-22-24461145 Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

To 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Exrension, Shivaji park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: +91-22-24461145 Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 136

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LIVA to Build on its Consumer Success The focus was on Liva SS16 collection specially highlighting Indo-Western and ethnic garments. This collection had a high ting of innovation in line with consumer trends forecasted by International Design Consultants. Liva has been a vital ingredient in the entire gamut of fashion wear - Western, Skirts, Kurtis, Palazzos etc.

LIVA Display at the Conclave

In SS15, LIVA tagged garments were available with major retail brands, spread across 84 cities in India with visual Merchandise in 500 stores to enhance the consumer experience. The success of LIVA is evident by the fact that consumers have looked for the Liva tag in garments and experienced the natural, fluid, fashion in large numbers. After the grand launch of LIVA, Birla Cellulose, a global leader in MMCF, has once again taken initiative to provide a platform to facilitate networking of leading domestic brands, Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) members & the who's who of the Rajasthan garment industry to assure quality focussed offerings to the end consumer. Taking this forward, Liva, recently hosted the LIVA Partner Conclave 2015 at Radisson Blu, Jaipur on 7th August 2015. This conclave also saw its collaboration with the Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan.

Mr. Manohar Samuel. President , Marketing & Business Development - Birla Cellulose welcomes Mr. Vivek Khandelwal, President of Garment Exporters Association of (GEAR)

Mr. Manohar Samuel, President, Marketing & Business Development , Birla Cellulose addressed the audience and stressed the importance of this event. He said "We are pleased to associate with the Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan for the LIVA Partner Conclave 2015. Our vision of taking brand LIVA to the consumer along with our Brand associates and the LIVA Accredited Partner Forum Members has now reached greater heights with the inclusion of leading Garmenters of the Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan". Reputed domestic apparel brands attended the LIVA Partner Conclave where they interacted with Leading Garmenters&Liva Accredited Partner Forum members.

Leading Domestic Brands Who attended West side

Lifestyle

Global Desi / AND

Madame

Max Retail

Shoppers Stop

People - Madura Garment

Crimsoume Club

Pantaloon

Ethnicity

BIBA

Fab India

Big Bazaar

Aditya Birla On-line Fashion

W-TCNS

Reliance Trends

July - August 2015

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This year March marked yet another milestone for Birla Cellulose with launch of 'LIVA'. LIVA has tremendous potential to revolutionize the way we think about fashion in textiles. Liva is expected to bring its key role in producing excellent fabric to the fore fabrics, in line with the consumer tastes and demands. It is an attempt to reach out to the end consumer with an innovative and quality offering, keeping a focus on the entire value chain involved to deliver.


NEWS Birla Cellulose also launched a unique concept called "Liva Accredited Partner Forum" - (LAPF), of aggregated partners in March 2015 which saw a continuation in this meet. LAPF is a community of Spinners, Fabricators, & Processors who work closely with Birla Cellulose on innovation, quality & technology to deliver Liva fabrics to consumers.

Finally, there is huge potential for Indian traditional clothing first in domestic and with the Indian Diaspora which Birla Cellulose foresees. The company feels they need to get aggressive in-terms of marketing ethnic wear. With LIVA they believe they have the right tool to reach places.

LIVA Accredited Partner Forum Members who attended SSM Processing , Erode

The Ruby Mills Ltd., Mumbai

Ujjawal Textiles, Surat

Chandhok Textiles Enterprises, Delhi

Mafatlal Industries, Nadiad

Pee Vee textiles Ltd, Hinghanghat

Swan Energy , Ahmedabad

Gokul Tex Print , Surat

SreeThangam Weaving Mills, Erode

Krishna Dyeing & Printing Mills, Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ltd, Surat Ludhiana Svarn Tex Prints, Delhi

Jayavinayaga& Co, Erode

VSM Weaves India Limited, Erode Rajkrishna weaves, Erode

Co-branding opportunities As part of the strategic programme, partners in the LAPF will use LIVA and LAPF logos on the packaging and promotional materials which aim to improve visibility and convey assurance of quality across the value chain. At the retail end, each piece of garment will have the distinguished LIVA tag that assures consumers of all that the LIVA brand stands for.

To find out more about Liva and its associated programmes, write/talk to: UdayKhadilkar + 91 8422969992 |uday.khadilkar@adityabirla.com Nikhil Sukthankar - +91 9702036462 | nikhil.sukthankar@adityabirla.com

Make in India should also lead to a Buy in India

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ecommerce has to be liberalized fully to enable the linkages between Make in India and Buy in India By Arvind Sinha, National President, The textile Association (India) It remains a contradiction unparalleled that successive governments have extolled the virtues of manufacturing in India, but almost all of them formulated policies that promote trading over manufacturing.

brands are now household brands in India. Incentives for a local manufacturer to manufacture in India have always been subject to unpredictable policy, license and inspector raj and infrastructural glitches.

The new government has made the right noises with its emphasis on branding India as a manufacturing hub, but is the back end backing it up? Not yet. Indian physical retail is chock-a-block with products that have been manufactured in China, sourced at low prices and sold in India especially in the unorganized sector. It has become so endemic that the smallest Chinese

The expertise and investment required for local manufacturing to build brands and start manufacturing in India has been depressed for ages because of the lack of capital and access to broader markets. E-commerce has been an outlier in all the gloom we have witnessed over the past few years. It has the potential to and incubates local brands with local manufacturing. ECommerce is a border-neutral paradigm for business for a global market. Alibaba's contribution to China's manufacturing cannot be ignored, in the context of bringing buyers from all across the world to buy from China. It may be true that China was already in place as a manufacturing economy but with hindsight, we can do even better and use E-Commerce platforms to kick start manufacturing activity on scale.

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NEWS Today there are customers globally who buy directly from e-commerce players by cutting out marketplaces in their own country. By using expertise in advertising, brand building and logistics and warehousing, ecommerce companies can assist local manufacturers in selling to customers globally, making it easy for Indian manufacturers to access global markets. With the advent of e-commerce we have seen many products finding a market and the barrier for entry for small entrepreneurs, craftspeople and brands to be able to sell directly had been reduced significantly. To build on the success, businesses need more capital to scale. The entrepreneurs who have built micro businesses and have employed carpenters, painters, weavers and other skilled and unskilled craftsmen or who have created small markets and brands for themselves need to produce more to find more sales and growth. This can happen only if E-Commerce companies underwrite their risks by way of underwriting the inventory. In doing so, e-commerce companies will allow them to focus on innovation and manufacturing on scale rather than worry about sales and marketing and distribution which comes packaged to them with an E-Commerce platform. E-Commerce has been one of the bright spots in Indian economy over the other sectors. Unfortunately,

by creating an artificial differentiation between marketplace models and inventory models, government is stifling the growth of E-commerce, stifling the entrepreneurship potential of India and stifling economies of scale that could help us become competitive on price globally. All this is being done at the cost of promoting incumbent large business houses and traders. By opening up inventory led B2C Ecommerce model to FDI, India can broad base wealth creation in India. Some of the most popular internet companies of China, like Baidu, Alibaba, Tencent, JD.com have listed and are cumulatively worth more than $500 billion, creating hundreds of multi-millionaires and bringing in more than $30bn in cash from IPO proceeds. By comparison Indian stock market's total market cap is $1,500 billion. If we seriously want to match the successes of China in this sector India must stop implementing policies which end up maintaining the status quo in favour of small and inefficient trading oriented policies. Continuing to wish for a boost in manufacturing and doing everything to encourage retail to buy from China will not get us to make in India. Ecommerce has to be liberalized fully to enable the linkages between Make in India and Buy in India.

Precision blending with UNIblend A 81 Precision blends of the widest variety of fibres, also in combination with cotton, are recording an increase in demand. UNIblendA 81 has been synonymous with precise blends for 20 years. The precision blender UNIblend made its debut at ITMA 1995 in Milan. The 20th anniversary inspires us to investigate the reasons why these machines have endured on the market.

yardstick for tuft blending. In the further development of homogeneous blends with precisely defined material components, Rieter consistently followed the path towards the precise and continuous feeding of fibre components. Today's A 81 UNIblend operates with very high accuracy of a maximum of 1 % blend deviation

The increase in man-made fibres and the rising demand for man-made fibre blends including cotton in the mid-1970s were the spur for Rieter engineers to develop a continuous blending process that operates with precision. The result: the fibre dosing unit B0/1 Contimeter, based on a system with continuous weighing of the material flow. Even then it proved to be a July - August 2015

The development for precision blending The increase in man-made fibres and the rising demand for man-made fibre blends including cotton in the mid-1970s were the spur for Rieter engineers to develop a continuous blending process that operates with precision. The result: the fibre dosing unit B0/1 139

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The development for precision blending


NEWS Contimeter, based on a system with continuous weighing of the material flow. Even then it proved to be a yardstick for tuft blending. In the further development of homogeneous blends with precisely defined material components, Rieter consistently followed the path towards the precise and continuous feeding of fibre components. Today's A 81 UNIblend operates with very high accuracy of a maximum of 1 % blend deviation. Market success is guaranteed by the blending accuracy Less than 1 % deviation in multi-component blending with the A 81 UNIblend - how is this accomplished? The recipe for this is the following. The dosing equipment continuously and precisely feeds the pre-set proportions onto the conveyor belt as tuft carpet in several layers. The resulting tuft sandwich is compacted. The downstream opening roller then forms this input material into homogeneously blended tufts, which consist of exactly the desired fibre content. In comparison, the precision of the conventional weighing hopper system is heavily dependent on the subsequent mixing process. It is therefore limited in application and accuracy.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Positive effects of this high quality and very precise blend are reduced interruptions to spinning machines, increased yarn strength and less ends down in weaving and knitting. Extensive UNIblend dyeing tests for various materials also showed amazing results in colour uniformity.

challenging blends with dyed raw materials, e.g. melange, can be found in the field. Precision, especially in high-tech fibres Today, modern high-tech fibres are used in many applications. They can impart certain properties even in small portions of the fibre blend, e.g. anti-static,sterile or tensile strength. As these fibres are often very expensive, it is essential to blend this valuable raw material in very exact percentages. This is not just about the costs but also the optimal effects and properties as well as compliance with legal regulations. Feedback "For blended yarn production, we regularly conduct chemical analyses, which show that the A 81 UNIblend produces with a deviation of +/- 1 %. Thanks to this precision we can use our yarn blends in the weaving mill without hesitation." Mustafa Kayan Operations Manager Spinning and Doubling Mills O?uzTekstil A.?., Turkey "With the homogeneous fibre blends from UNIblend, we achieve high yarn quality and hence an excellent fabric appearance.We are in a position to optimise the fibre blend by precisely mixing different raw materials within a range of +/- 1 %. Hence we are able to optimise our production costs." AhmetDuygal General Manager Ring Spinning Kipa A.., Turkey "We have been working with UNIblend for years and have two types of precision blending machines, UNIblendA 80 and A 81. We have been using the A 80 for almost 18 years without problems. With the UNIblend we can produce homogeneous blends and easily adjust recurring colours and achieve excellent results during continuous production. Thanks to the two UNIblend machines A 80 and A 81, we can produce blends from dyed cotton, dyed wool etc. without any problem."

Flexibility pays off in precision blending A precision blending system allows its users to optimize production costs subject to raw material prices. To this is to be added the unique ability to simultaneously run different blends in the blowroom system when used with only one UNIblend machine. In this case, there are almost no limits to the compositions of the blends. Both 50/50 % blends and extreme blend compositions in the range up to 2/98 %, as well as 140

TimurAtik Mill Manager GulleTekstil San.ve Tic. A.S., Turkey

July - August 2015


NEWS

This May Interest You! Iran Deal, a big step forward Sourced &Compiled by Arvind Sinha CEO, Business Advisors Group, Mumbai

Auspicious as this occasion is, though, there is no guarantee that the agreement will survive, given how contentious the implementation phase is likely to be. Nor can the deal by itself end the lingering animosity between the United States and Iran, which predates the nuclear program. The landmark nuclear agreement will only be sustainable if it continues to serve the national interests of both countries. And here, if they think beyond their strategic divorce in 1979 and the recent deal itself, they will realize that they have much to gain from improved ties-and that the agreement will be crucial to this process. To be sure, those in Tehran and Washington who oppose the deal-and those countries in the Middle East that have benefited from Iranian-U.S. estrangementwill not make things easy. Still, the agreement is a risk worth taking, considering how unattractive the other alternatives are. Indeed, although the United States and Iran did not get everything they wanted in the negotiations, the agreement is the best they could possibly attain now. It is a "win-win" for both countries, and a triumph of diplomacy and hope over war and cynicism. As Congress begins deliberations about the agreement, opponents will relentlessly lobby legislators to reject the deal because it has not closed all pathways to a nuclear bomb and has legitimized Iran as a threshold nuclear power. However, they will not be able to offer a viable alternative to it. Should Congress vote to reject the agreement anyway, US President has promised to veto their decision. Overriding his veto would require a 2/3 majority in both houses of Congress, which is unlikely. Moreover, doing so would profoundly tarnish U.S. prestige and make it extremely difficult for Washington to sustain the existing sanctions regime on Iran. In other words, the chances that the agreeJuly - August 2015

ment will survive Congressional opposition are good. If opponents fail to scuttle the deal under US President, though, they will seek to convince Congress and the next president to continue and possibly intensify Washington's containment of Iran. They will warn that lifting the sanctions and unfreezing Iran's estimated $110 billion in foreign assets will make the country more eager to destabilizing the Middle East. They will insist that anti-Americanism remains a foundational principle of the Islamic Republic. What they will not mention, of course, is that the U.S. policy of containing Iran for years has not worked and has helped transform Iran into a regional power. The P5+1 agreed to lift nuclear-related sanctions on Iran because the negotiators were convinced that all pathways for Tehran to build a bomb Iran had been satisfactorily closed and that it's key nuclear activities would be seriously curtailed or frozen for at least a decade. The Joint Comprehensive Plan of Action, released on July 14, is a detailed and highly technical document that outlines in methodical detail the responsibilities of Iran and the six global powers. According to the document, Iran offered major concessions. It agreed to stop enriching uranium at 20 percent, a process only a few countries have mastered. Iran also consented to reduce the number of its centrifuges by two-thirds and to redesign the core of the heavy-water reactor at Arak so that it cannot produce weaponsgrade platinum. Altogether, Iran will be forced to get rid of 98 percent of the entire stockpile of its enriched uranium, which it can ship out of the country or sell. At any one time, Iran will be allowed to have inside the country only a fraction of the enriched uranium it would need to build a bomb. The critics of the deal insist that they still do not trust Iran. They should not. Nor does Iran trust the West. That can come only slowly and through confidencebuilding measures, of which this deal is a good start. Verification, transparency, and continuous monitoring of the Iranian nuclear facilities will also help. In fact, Iran has accepted the most intrusive inspection and monitoring regime ever imposed on a member of the Non-Proliferation Treaty, including continuous monitoring of the Fuel Enrichment Plant, which is a highly fortified underground facility designed to withstand aerial bombardment.Iran has agreed to allow the 141

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The historic nuclear agreement between Iran and the P5+1 negotiators announced on July 14 is a transformative event for the Middle East, a victory for U.S. non-proliferation strategy, and will surely be one of U.S. President Barack Obama's most consequential foreign policy achievements.


NEWS International Atomic Energy Agency to inspect, where and when necessary and in consultation with Iran, any suspected Iranian military facilities. Tehran has also agreed to answer all questions pertinent to the military dimensions of its past nuclear activities. It will not be easy to sell the deal in Iran. Some hardliners will lament that Tehran has capitulated to the West. One such critic sarcastically tweeted that Iran's nuclear program is reduce to centrifuges that only can produce atomic carrot juice. However, hardliners will have no better alternative than the new deal. In addition, those in Congress who worry about them should not dismiss the profound changes that have taken place in Iran and their potentially positive impact on the U.S.-Iranian relations. Iranian foreign policy rests on two pillars: the survival of the Islamic Republic and anti-Americanism.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

For a while now, those two pillars have been mutually reinforcing; ruling elites believe that Washington seeks regime change, so Iran has seen itself as being on the defensive, trying to deter the United States and expand its regional influence as a hedge. However, there are signs that the Islamic Republic's and the Iranian population's perceptions of the U.S. threat are gradually changing. Polls of Iranians unambiguously reveal that a significant portion of Iran's highly educated population, particularly its technology-savvy youth, favor improved relations with the United States. Opponents of the deal dismiss these facts, arguing that Iran's hostile policies are not made by its people but by its authoritarian leaders. But that line of thinking ignores the development of a new faction within the governing elite that seeks to improve relations with the United States without undermining Iranian sovereignty. Although there are powerful forces that still oppose any rapprochement with the United States, direct nuclear negotiations between Tehran and Washington seem to have convinced many in the country that the United States has finally recognized the legitimacy of the Islamic Republic as well as its right to local enrich uranium. This might argue that real power does not reside in the presidency, but rather in the Supreme Leader and the Revolutionary Guards. In addition, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, they maintain, is an inflexible zealot who will never make nice with Washington. But they are simply wrong. No Iranian president could have reached out to the United States without the Supreme Leader's approval. Moreover, Iran's Revolutionary Guards, which 142

are exclusively accountable to Khamenei, cooperated with U.S. Special Operations Forces in 2001 to dislodge the Taliban government in Afghanistan. More recently, he has said that if "the U.S. behaves in a humane way, we will have no problem with it," which, in the convoluted vernacular of Iran means we are ready to talk. It is also highly likely that the world will witness changes in Iran's top leadership within the next decade, as Iran's old guard leaders are replaced by young and hopefully less idealistic ones. All this presents a unique opportunity for Washington to improve relations with Tehran. The two have been engaged in a covert war for 37 years. Both have a long list of legitimate grievances. Without any introspection, hardliners in both Tehran and Washington will focus only on those grievances. Instead of focusing on that past, though, they should concentrate on common goals for the future. In truth, the United States shares strategicinterest with Iran, Afghanistan and Iraq and against the Islamic State (also called ISIS) than it does with its other Persian Gulf allies. Today Iran is a spoiler regional power-one that is insufficiently powerful to shape the Middle East to its own liking, but sufficiently powerful to make it costly for the United States to achieve its own goals. Its zone of influence stretches from Afghanistan to Iraq to the Levant and even to Yemen. Its power, particularly its soft power and its advances in asymmetric warfare strategies, cannot be ignored. Iran did not create the turmoil in these countries, but took advantage of the chaos to empower marginalized forces and expand its own sphere of influence. For Iran to become a part of the solution to stabilize the region, it must moderate its regional policies, particularly toward Bashar alAssad's brutal regime and toward Lebanon. The new agreement can provide a unique opportunity for Iran to move toward real moderation in its regional policies. The key challenge for the United States is to provide strategic incentives to transform Iran from spoiler power to a cooperative one. The two powers can engage in managed tactical cooperation where their mutual interests coincide and compete with each other where their interests are irreconcilable. A good place to start would be on ISIS, which poses a profound threat to both countries and to the entire region. ISIS has expanded beyond Iraq and Syria to Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Yemen, Libya, Tunisia, and even Paris. The United States does not want to put boots on the ground in Iraq or Syria to fight ISIS. But its aerial July - August 2015


NEWS

The powerful Turkish military is more interested in overthrowing Assad than defeating ISIS. And the Kurdish Peshmerga has the desire to fight ISIS, but not the capability to defeat it. And it is unlikely that the United States can train moderate, indigenous Arab forces as quickly as ISIS can recruit new members. Iran, however, has the will and the power to "degrade and defeat ISIS" and has already done more to weaken the group than many of the United States' Persian Gulf allies. Iranian-trained militias have a good record of fighting ISIS in Iraq and Syria. Members of the Revolutionary Guards have been in direct combat with ISIS. Iran was the first country to provide logistical support and equipment to Iraqi Kurds when they were threatened by ISIS in 2014. Iran has even helped Baghdad and Iraqi militias liberate a few towns in Iraq from ISIS control. Any tactical cooperation between the United States and Iran will only antagonize the region's Sunni population. Although there is an element of truth to this, it is essentially a subtle attempt to prevent detente between Tehran and Washington. Such a tactical cooperation should worry moderate Sunnis far less than ISIS does. Although the media often talks about Sunni alienation, it is worth remembering that the Shias are a majority in the oil-rich Persian Gulf and that the West should not seek to alienate them either. Moreover, the two main terrorist organizations, al Qaeda and ISIS, are Sunni not Shia. Part of the problem is the role Saudi Arabia has been playing in trying to prevent an accord between Iran and the United States. For years, the Saudis have known that, as long as the United States remained dependent on imported oil and was antagonistic toward Iran, Riyadh could count on Washington's unconditional support to pursue its regional ambitions. Today, however, Riyadh is in a state of panic. First the recent boom in U.S. oil production, backed by a new technology, had made the United States less dependent on imported oil. And now there is also a possibility of a rapprochement between the United States and Iran, which will diminish the Kingdom's strategic value.

Saudis even as it has been rightly critical of Iran's regional conduct. Saudi Arabia was one of the three countries that recognized the Taliban rule in Afghanistan, it sent troops to smash the pro-democracy uprising in Bahrain in 2011, and it provided financial support to the military takeover in Egypt in 2013 that overthrew the first democratically elected president of that country. Some Saudi clerics continue to provide ideological justification for violent extremist groups, and some private citizens provide financial support to extremists. To prevent any serious discussion of whether these conducts help or hurt U.S. interests in the region, Riyadh simply maintains that Iran is the main source of instability and that Washington needs to "cut off the head of the snake." Washington must slowly move away from its traditional and unconditional support of Saudi Arabia, but without fully undermining its alliance with the Kingdom. There, Washington can take a few risks. After all, Saudi Arabia cannot and will not find a better ally than the United States.Washington must also seek a more balanced and nuanced approach toward the SaudiIranian cold war. A good place to start would be discussions among all three about Yemen and then Syria. However, without the nuclear agreement and reduction of tensions with Iran, the United States would not be able to play this role, which would give it some manoeuvring room to protect its national interests with minimal cost in the Persian Gulf and beyond. When much of the Middle East is descending into unpredictable civil and sectarian wars, Iran is a regional lynchpin. A U.S. detente with the country can potentially help Washington achieve many of its goals in the Middle East. Hence, this deal will provide tremendous positive gains, which will bring prosperity in the region, and large population based Iran, Afghanistan will be greatly benefited. India & China will have great benefit, as business will grow many foals. This is the deal, which is good for everybody and will provide big changes in Global Business Scenario. This may also keep oil prices below 40 USD which is a great blessing. Cell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612 Email ID : arpsinha09@gmail.com / lionasinha@gmail.com

For too long, Washington has given a free pass to the July - August 2015

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bombardment of ISIS facilities and fighters will not defeat the terrorist organization. Egypt, Jordan, and Saudi Arabia are unlikely to be willing to send troops; after all, the Shia-dominated government in Baghdad and the Assad regime in Damascus will vehemently oppose such an intervention.


FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

ABROAD

Techtextil India (Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwoven) Date : 24th to 26th September, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd., 215, Atrium, 2nd Floor, B Wing, Andheri, Kurla Road, Andheri, Mumbai - 400 093 India Tel. : +91 (0)22-61445900 Fax : +91 0)22-61445999 Website : www.messefranfurtindia.in

3rd International Conference on Textile & Apparel 2015 (ICTA 2015) Date : 4-5 September, 2015 Venue : KIB Convention Hall, Farmgate, Dhaka, Bangladesh Contact : Textile Institute Bangladesh Section (TIBS) and Bangladesh Textile Today Tel. : +88 01717 585832, +88 01977 585832 E-mail : riyadh@textiletodaybd.com Website : http://icta.com.bd

ITMACH (International Textile Machinery and Accessories Exhibition) Date : 17th to 19thDecember, 2015 Venue : Bhiwandi at the outsjirts of Mumbai, India Contact : ITMACH India, Second Floor, Gandhi Mansion, Bomanji Master Lane, Kalbadevi, Mumbai - 400 0002 India Tel. : +91 (0)22-22017062 / 22017063 E-mail : info@itmach.com Website : www.itmach.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ITME 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 03rd to 08th December, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Executive Director India ITME Society 1210/1211 Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No.211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 India Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138 Fax : +91-022-2285 1578 E-mail : itme@itme-india.com Website : www.itme@itme-india.com INDIATEX 2016 International Textile Exhibition Date : 16-18th March, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convenor The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, 86, College Road, Near Portuguese Church, Meher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : +91-22-2432 8044, 2430 7702, Fax : +91-22-2430 7708 Mobile : +91-9167515676, +91-9324904271 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtni.net.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com, www.indiatex.co.in

13th Asian Textile Conference (ATC-13) Federation of Asian Professional Textile Association (FAPTA) Date : 03rd to 06th November, 2015 Venue : Australian coastal city of Geelong, Victoria. Australia Contact : Prof. Xungai Wang (Alfred Deakin Professor) Chair of the Organising Committee Director, Australian Future Fibres Research & Innovation Centre (AFRIC), Deakin University, Australia Tel. : +61-03-5227 2894 M. : +61-419525434 E-mail : xungai.wang@deakin.edu.au Website : www.atc-13.org ITMA 2015 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 12th to 19th November, 2015 Venue : Fiera, Milano Rho, Milan, Italy Contact : MP Expositions Pte Ltd. 20, Kallang Avenue, 2nd Floor, Pico Creative Centre, Singapore 339411 Tel. : +65 6393 0241, Fax: +65 6296 2670 E-mail : info@itma.com, Website : http://www.itma.com ITM 2013 Turkey(International Textile, Yarn, Knitting, Weaving, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing and Hosiery Machineries, Subindustries and Chemicals Exhibition) Date : 01st to 04th June, 2016 Venue : TUYAP Fair, Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey Contact : TeknikTairs Limited Company YakupluMerkezMah, Osmanli Cad,Guney, Konaklari B-Block no. 1, Kat 3 Daire 6 34524 Beylikduzu ISTANBUL, TURKEY Tel. : +(0) 212-876-75-06(pbx) Fax : +(0) 212-876-06-81 E-mail : info@teknikfuarcilik.com, Website : www.itm2016.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. 144

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