E journal jul aug '16 by TheTextile Association (India)

PRINTING

PEER REVIEWED

Patterns from Nature: Contact Printing Özlenen Erdem Ismal Dokuz Eylül University, Faculty of Fine Arts, Textile and Fashion Design Department Abstract Contact printing is a creative method applied by printmakers, textile designers and artists. Mostly wool and silk fabrics are used to obtain darker and more vivid colours in natural dyeings and printings. The present study reports the effects of various mordants, process conditions and fixation techniques on the most satisfactory patterns, textures and colour shades by direct using of various plant/vegetable/fruit parts and bio wastes with cotton, viscose, Tencel, Tencel/cotton and cotton/polyester blend fabrics. The best conditions were identified and vivid, sharp edged and impressive visual effects were successfully achieved. An useful method was also developed by using egg white to simulate protein structure of animal fibers. Egg white apparently amplified the print effect and resulted in more sharp edged, attractive and vivid patterns due to its protein structure and adhesive property. It allows plants to stick on fabric by forming clear and vivid traces, textures and colours. Mordants enriched the colour gamut, changed the colour shades, intensified the plant patterns and improved colour yield in print. Mostly copper, iron and alum produced cinnamon, brownish, greenish shades; dark khaki, mink, brown, navy shades; more pinkish, reddish, yellowish lighter/ softer shades respectively. Creating successful patterns is resultant of technical knowledge, experience, practice and accurate recipes. Interesting surface effects can be imparted through manipulation of process parameters. Even, change of only one parameter causes significant variation and entirely different unique designs. Keywords Contact/eco printing, Eco dyeing, Mordant, Natural dyeing, Plant

Up to the middle of the 19th century natural dyes were the main colorants available for textile dyeing and printing processes. The Englishman Sir William Henry Perkin was only 17 years old, when he discovered and manufactured the first synthetic organic dye (mauveine) in 1856. Mauveine's shade was similar to "Royal purple" (Tyrian purple) of antiquity [1]. Use of natural dyes for textile dyeing almost disappeared with the synthesis of synthetic dyes. Every country has local plants and endemic species to be utilised and protected. This potential can be valorised to present novel natural dye sources in terms of using sustainable and renewable colorants in dyeing/printing processes. *All the correspondance should be addressed to, Dr. Özlenen Erdem Ismal Professor, Faculty of Fine Arts, Textile and Fashion Design Department, Dokuz Eylül University 35320 Balçova, izmir,Turkey Email: ozlenen.ismal@deu.edu.tr July - August 2016

With over 9000 species, Turkey is one of the richest countries of Europe and the Middle East from the flora point of view. Among them more than 3000 are distributed as endemics. As a parallel of this floristic richness, the number of dye plants is relatively high in Turkey. In the regions where natural dyeing is stil alive, it was identified that the colours obtained from the number of species are as follows: yellow from 84 species, green from 41 species, brown from 33 species, grey from 10 species, red from 7 species, pink from 5 species, orange from 5 species, purple from 4 species, blue from 3 species and black from 3 species [2]. Nowadays, considerable research works on the utilization of bio wastes, bio materials and by-products from food, beverage, timber, agriculture and other industries in natural dyeing have been conducted. Many researches are also underway to valorise these wastes in beneficial and ecofriendly route. Some plant/fruit wastes, bio masses and by-products are sustainable and eco friendly natural dye sources. Plant wastes such as rosemary, rose, lavender, mate tea extracts[3], orange peel[4], rose wastes [5], pulps of lavender, broom and red wine [6], outer green shell 81

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1. Introduction Currently, there is a growing interest in rejuvenation of natural dyeing and niche products on the basis of sustainability, green chemistry and ecological approaches. Natural dyes have historical, cultural, economic importance and value for colouring of textiles.

PRINTING of almond fruit [7] and prina (crude olive cake) [8] which is an essential by-product of olive oil production were used to extract natural dye successfully. Most of the traditional natural dyeings are carried out by exhaust method to dye textile materials made of various fibres. Padding method can also be applied. A wide range of dye-rich plants/wastes/by-products, variable colouring methods and parameters offer favourable opportunities to practitioners, dyers, printmakers, designers and artists.

Colouring material (plant/fruit/vegetable/waste/by-product), extraction, colouring, post treatments (fixation, washing) are crucial stages of natural dyeing and printing. Colour coordinates and fastness properties are highly affected by parameters of these pocesses. Optimisation of extraction and dyeing/printing conditions is essential in terms of obtaining dyestuff effectively and the best colour yield on textile material. Table 1.1 shows the factors significantly affecting extraction yield, colour shade, colour strength and fastness properties.

Table 1.1 Main components and substantial parameters of natural colouring processes

Vegetal Colourants plants/fruits/trees/

waste materials/by vegetables products from agricultural, food, beverage, timber industries

Extraction Process

Dyeing/printing Process Use of extracted dye solution

Direct use of colouring material

Fresh, dried, frozen natural colorant

Solvent type (Aqueous or non-aqueous Growing conditions of the plant/fruit/tree/ medium) vegetable

In case of extracted dye solution usage: liquor ratio (amount of textile material/ volume of dye bath)

Part of the plant/fruit/tree/vegetable: leaves, Water quality and branches, stems, flowers, buds, skins, seeds, hardness hulls, roots, barks, peels, wood, shells, etc. Extraction time Particule size/dimension of colouring mateExtraction temperature rial Liquor ratio: amount of parts: Whole part, big pieces, powder, sliced, colouring material/ crushed, chopped etc. volume of solvent Usage form: Direct use of colouring matepH: Acidic, basic, rial or extracted dye solution neutral

In case of direct use of coloring material: liquor ratio (amount of textile material/volume of water) and amount of colouring material based on fabric weight)

Direct extraction, incubation or combination method. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Extraction method: Conventional heating or modern and ecofriendly methods such as ultrasound, microwave, enzymatic, supercritical carbondioxide (CO 2) extraction etc.

Water quality and hardness Mordant type (Metallic, biomordants etc.) Mordanting method: Pre, meta/simultaneous and post mordanting dyeing/ printing pH: Acidic, basic, neutral Use of salt and/or auxiliaries Dyeing temperature Dyeing time Dyeing method: Conventional heating by exhaust method, padding method, modern ecofriendly methods such as ultrasound, microwave, enzymatic, solar energy dyeing etc. Fixation method: steaming, boiling or batching July - August 2016

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2. Mordants Some of the natural dyes can form metal-complexes with metal salts of iron, aluminium, copper, tin and chromium. Mordants can impart fastness properties and widen colour gamut depending on the type of the mordant. Dramatic colour changes are achieved by using same natural dyestuff only by changing mordant type. A wide range of colours with very different shades, darkness and fastness values can be obtained depending on the kind and concentration of natural dye and mordant and mordanting method. â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Conventional Metallic mordants: Most mordanting agents are metallic salts of chromium, tin, iron, copper and aluminum. Copper and chromium containing compounds (e.g., copper sulfate and potassium dichromate) were widely used as mordants, but their usage has declined because of toxicity concerns. Likewise, iron and tin mordants (e.g., iron sulfate and tin chloride) can affect the color and tactile qualities of the dyed textile. Aluminum mordanting agents are commonly used and considered among the safest in the application of natural dyes to cellulosic textiles Aluminum containing mordant agents, aluminum potassium sulfate (APS) and aluminum acetate (AA), are the most widely used for dyeing cotton with natural dyes [10]. Generally, it is believed that the metallic mordants are hazardous ecologically. However, the concentration and the amount of mordant consumed during reaction and left in waste water have to be considered according to the upper limits of ecological criteria.

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Oil mordants: These are mainly used in dyeing Turkey Red colour from madder. The main function of the oil mordant is to form a complex with alum used as the main mordant [11].

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Bio mordants: These are tanin, tannic acid, tartaric acid and metal containing plants. Myrabolan (Terminalia chebula), pomegranate rinds (punica

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granatum), tannin, tannic acid, tartaric acid, guava, banana leaves ash [12], valex, rosemary, pomegranate rind and thuja [13, 14] are reported as bio and eco-friendly mordants providing satisfactory dyeing and fastness properties. Commonly used mordants include aluminum potassium sulfate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate, although there are health and environmental concerns about the last three [9]. Natural dyeings can be conducted according to pre, simultaneous/meta and post mordanting methods. Mordant and mordanting method choice directly affects colour shades and fastness properties obtained. It is not possible to present strict rules and instructions for mordanting method because results vary depending on plant and mordant type. Pre and post mordanting method may produce darker shades depending on plant and mordant type. Mordant concentration is also essential factor on darkness. 3. Environmentally Friendly Textile Design Global warming, decrease in water sources, chemical waste problems and ecological legislation make all productions of every sector done on ecological basis. Considering ecological criteria of the product from the beginning is the inevitable result of growing environmental consciousness. Technically, selection of eco friendly raw materials and cleaner production methods is crucial through ecological production process. However, with a wider point of view, the evaluation of ecological side of design which adds positive value and closely connected to technology should not be ignored. In this connection, designers should work together as a team and interdisciplinary with workers technically. Many concepts have been suggested nowadays such as green textiles, organic textiles, carbon footprint, sustainability, eco design, ecological textiles, Design for Environment, sustainability, Life Cyle Assesment (LCA), Design for Sustainability (D4S). The concept of the Design for the Environment (DfE) requires the detailed consideration of the process starting from the material selection, product packaging, product life cycle up to the recyling of the products at end of the life. The criteria that have be taken into consideration by the designers and technologists exsist and they are responsible for the ecological textile and design approach under the ligth of current developments and concepts [15]. 83

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Natural dyes can be processed in several ways, including one or more water based extractions of the dye from the dyestuff, dyestuff fermentation to produce a useable dye, immersion in a dyebath, or repeated immersions in a dyebath. There are many other options open to dyers including contact dyeing, extracting with a solvent other than water, fermentation, and low immersion dyeing where the water to fiber ratio is low [9].

PRINTING Environmentally friendly textile colouring, wet and finishing treatments are less water, energy and time consuming labour and cost effective processes. In this connection contact print and dyeing technique can be presumed as environmentally friendly aesthetical patterning technique that allows producing unique surfaces. 4. Contact/Eco Print and Dyeing Most of the textiles are dyed and printed by using synthetic dyes. However, nowadays environmental impacts, chemical structures and contents of synthetic dyes are frequently questioned and criticised. Therefore, environmentally benign alternative natural dyes and methods arouse interest among researchers, designers, artists and practitioners. All natural fibres and majority of man made fibres can be coloured with natural dyes. It is possible to reveal very different colours and designs by using natural colourants, materials, substrates and methods.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The terms such as contact/eco dyeing, contact/eco printing are used to describe direct use of plants without any extraction in natural dyeing. However, their different end results and similarities have to be well defined and distinguished. In fact contact dyeing and eco/contact print can be assumed as methods with different effects. Every fabric bundle with parts of plants/fruits/vegetables produces more or less partial colour effects on fabric like watercolour effects. In eco printing or contact printing a pattern/design is transferred onto the fabric surface. Compromise on process parameters and technical knowledge is strongly required to achieve vivid, sharp and satisfactory print effects on the fabric. Chemical bonding of the dye molecules to the textile fibres occurs in both methods. Contact dyeing and printing can be suggested as a different approach to conventional natural dyeing. This technique is very rich application field involved in combination of art and scientific method. It allows designers and artists to present their imagination unrestrictedly. Unpredictible results, patterns, colours and visual effects are possible. Contact dyeing and printing is a kind of art form creating visual effects through natural colourants existing in plants, fruits, vegetables, waste materials, by-products etc. These techniques are contact methods using plants as natural stencils consequently producing astonishing and interesting shades, textures, traces and marks on fabric surface. Different kinds of fabrics such 84

as cotton, linen, jute, hemp, viscose, Tencel, wool, silk, specialty protein fibers, synthetics etc. can be used. On the basis of practices and core knowledge of traditional natural dyeing methods, contact dyeing and printing process can be guided to obtain unique surface properties on the fabric. It is distinguished from conventional dyeing and printing techniques applied in industial and artistic studies using natural and synthetic dyes. This sustainable technique can be defined as an alternative way to produce random/symmetrical/asymmetrical patterns, marks and partially coloured surfaces through direct use of different parts of plants/trees/fruits/vegetables etc. Unlike conventional natural dyeing and printing methods, vegetal parts are directly enclosed and bundled in fabric with or without rod. Single fabric layer or multiple layers containing plants like sandwich can also be employed. Fabric pockets are post treated to extract, activate and fix the dye molecules into the fabric. This fixation step which is made by steaming, boiling or batching is crucial to generate satisfactory print effects, textures, darkness, colour shades and colour yields. There are many designers and artists dealing with natural dyeing and contact deying/eco printing. Karen Leigh (Diadick) Casselman, India Flint, Velma Bolyard, Arlee Barr, Paula Burch, Bonnie Bowman, Jenny Dean, Jennifer Cooper, James Dennison, Irit Dulman, Michel Garcia, Sherry Haar, Lois Jarvis, Mary Marlowe Leverette, Amelia Poole, Cassandra Tondro, Elena Ulyanova, Pat Vivod, Sandy Webster, Trace Willans, Celia Wilson, Isabella Whitworth and Rio Wrenn and Wendy Feldberg are some artists involving in eco print and natural dying [16]. An intriguing and attractive characteristic of an eco printed surface is the tendency of plant pigments to separate into unexpected constituent colors, giving impressions of "broken colour" on the substrate, with patterning and colourings of spontaneous nature. These effects can be made more predictable by the selective use of mordants (pre or post dyeing) and dye assistants such as iron or copper, by applying acid (e.g., vinegar) or alkalis (e.g., ammonia) to shift pH, or by combining dye plants in the bundle in order to mix new colors right on the substrate. An example is pHsensitive Red cabbage which eco prints blue with alum; when splashed with vinegar and placed nearby Goldenrod blooms or some Osage Orange (Maclura July - August 2016

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Plant materials (along with branches, barks, rocks or metals, too) should be securely wrapped in a premordanted textile or layered between sheets of watercolor paper; the bundle is tied tightly with string and perhaps weighted with a brick, then steamed over water or simmered in water or natural dye. Different print effects are obtained by layering, tying, folding, clamping or stitching metals, rocks, twigs, etc. onto the substrate [17]. Different colors can be obtained depending on recipe, mordant and extraction. It is reported that purple or maroon is most often produced by the first extract while blue is usually more consistent with the third extract of elderberries. Use of ferrous sulfate will create browner areas while copper sulfate will produce green areas (Kadolph, 2008). Slow dyeing using the power of the sun is another tool for the dyer and creates subtly different colours from the normal methods [18]. It is reported that there are only a few artists who combine resist methods with natural dyes and many of them work with indigo. Resist method was applied to silk chiffon by using goldenrod. As an another experience intense blue occurred with alum and copper and one week of contact dyeing with cabbage. Less intense colors were achieved using aluminum foil, copper, and two weeks of contact dyeing [19]. Although natural dyes are generally are associated with protein fibres in terms of achieving more vivid, dark colours and satisfactory results than cellulosic fabrics, nowadays researchers, designers and artists also focuse on other textile fibres. It is known that cotton fibre generally produces more dull colour shades. Papers and nonwovens can also be substrates for contact dyeing/eco printing. It is seen that mostly protein fibres such as wool and silk are used in contact dyeing and eco printing applications. In this study, different vegetal colourants, bio wastes, mordants, mordantings, application and fixation methods were applied on cellulosic fabrics such as cotton, viscose, Tencel and blend fabrics to obtain the best colours, textures and pattern effects. In the light of experimental studies, the most effective methods, satisfactory results and key topics were highlighted. July - August 2016

5. Materials and Methods 5.1 Fabrics Light weight cotton (100 %) , heavy weight cotton(100 %), raised cotton (100 %), cotton knit, viscose (100 %), Tencel (100 %), Tencel/cotton (50/50 %) blend and cotton/polyester (50/50 %) blend fabrics were used in this study. 5.2 Plants, vegetables and biowastes Leaves, peels and skins of various plants, trees, vegetables namely grape leaf, red onion skin, hibiscus, cranberry, lemon tree leaf, olive tree leaf, rose and rosewood leaf, pine tree leaf, eucalyptus tree leaf, chamomile, walnut leaf, buckthorn, sumac, fern, oak leaf, nettle, myrtle, purple cabbage and biowastes such as outer green shell of almond fruit and prina which is a by-product of olive oil production were used in this study. 5.3 Mordants Alum (dodecahydrate) (potassium aluminium sulphate), iron II sulphate (heptahydrate) and copper II sulphate (pentahydrate) mordants were used. Moreover, influence of citric acid on colour and texture effects produced was examined. Mordants alone and their mixtures in various proportions were applied in the experiments. Egg white was also employed to intensify the print effect. 5.4 Mordanting Methods Experiments were conducted in accordance with pre and simultaneous mordanting methods 5.5 Equipments and materials Sand bath, hot plate, glass beakers, large pots, strainer, plastic or wooden bars, aluminium foil, package rope, nylon bags were used. 5.6 Method Swatches were prepared using various plant/tree leaves, flowers, branches and vegetable/fruit leaves and peels in conjunction with mordants. Thus, it was observed that how different mordants affected the colour and trace effects obtained by using same plant/tree parts. After mordant solutions were incorporated into fabrics according to pre or simultaneous mordanting method, plants were placed decoratively on surface and rolled by tightly fastening. Then, fixation process was performed with different methods. Table 5.2 shows process conditions for trials. Experimental processes were led in the light of addi85

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pomifera) dye powder, it will produce a mingled range of greens and blues; when printed beside the yellows it will produce blue-reds [17].

PRINTING tional samples and mid evaluations. Through trials, in addition to effects of the mordant type, mordanting method and plants the following parameters on colour and trace characteristics were also assessed: ◆

Mordant type: Alum (potassium aluminium sulphate), iron II sulphate and their mixtures were used. Copper II sulphate, citric acid and control sample without mordant were also tried.

◆

Mordanting method: Fabric was pre mordanted by boiling for 1 hour in mordant solution before rolling with plants. In simultaneous mordanting, fabric was immersed for 5 minutes in solution at room temperature. Plant parts were decorated on the surface and rolled by fastening. In this method mordant solution may be applied by using a spoon or spraying after placing the plants on the fabric.

◆

Various wrapping styles and tightness: Fabric was rolled with and without bar. Moreover different fastening tightness degrees were also tried.

◆

Fixation method: Three fixation ways were conducted:

Figure 5.1. Fabric rolls

◆ Direct boiling in water: Fabric roll boils in

water directly. ◆ Non-contact boiling in water: Fabric roll is

boiled in water by wrapping aluminium foil. ◆ Steaming: Fabric roll is steamed above boiling

water. Fabric rolls and some print samples are seen in Figure 5.1 and 5.2.

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After contact print process, samples were rinsed using tap water and dried at ambient temperature. Subsequently, no fading or staining was observed. Original swatch cards were prepared with major samples of trials.

Figure 5.2. Some samples of trials 86

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PRINTING Table 5.2. Application conditions for trials

Mordant

Trial Fabric layer No

Mordanting method

Rolling style

Contact /non contact fixation

Fixation Method

Wet batch after fixation

Plants were sandwiched between two fabric plies

5 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling without Without aluminium bar foil

Boiling for 1 hour in 5 g/L alum

Wet batch in nylon bag for 1 day

Single ply

15 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling without Without aluminium bar foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Wet batch in nylon bag for 1 day

Single ply

15 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling without Without aluminium bar foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Wet batch in nylon bag for 1 day

Single ply

6 g/L iron

Pre mordanting (Boiling for 1 hour)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Boiling for 1 hour in water

Single ply

6 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Boiling for 1 hour in water

Single ply

6 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

12 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

12 g/L alum

Pre mordanting (Boiling for 1 hour)

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

6 g/L iron+1 g/ L citric acid

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

6 g/L alum+1 g/ L citric acid

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron+0,5 g/L citric acid

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron+0,5 g/L citric acid

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

5 g/L iron+5 g/ L alum

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

1 g/L copper

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

PRINTING Mordant

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Trial Fabric layer No

Mordanting method

Rolling style

Contact /non contact fixation

Fixation Method

Wet batch after fixation

Single ply

2.5 g/L citric acid

Simultaneous mordanting

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (Before spraying mordant solution, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

Without aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron

Pre mordanting (Boiling for 1 hour) (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling without With aluminium foil bar

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

15 g/L alum

Pre mordanting (Boiling for 1 hour) (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling without With aluminium foil bar

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling without With aluminium foil bar

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

15 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling without With aluminium foil bar

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L alum+10 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling without With aluminium foil bar

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

6 g/L alum+6 g/ L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

5 g/L alum+10 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

10 g/L alum+5 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

15 g/L iron

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

15 g/L alum

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

5 g/L copper

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

Single ply

Simultaneous mordanting (After premordanting, egg white was spread on fabric.) (only egg white was used)

Rolling with bar

With aluminium foil

Steaming for 1 hour over boiling water

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion 88

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Trial 1: Light weight cotton and raised cotton fabrics were used. Plants were sandwiched between two plies of fabric. Although plants partially dyed where they contacted fabric surface, their traces were very weak. Relatively looser wrapping/fastening tightness and especially direct boiling in mordant solution resulted in unsatisfactory result. Fabric highly absorbs water and this blurs the texture traces of plants. Trial 2 and Trial 3: Viscose and light weight cotton were tried. Alum mordant ensured lighter and different shades (pinkish, yellowish etc.) while iron resulted in darker and more vivid colours and sharper patterns. Both fabric provided good print results. Trial 4, Trial 5 and Trial 6: Light weight cotton, viscose, Tencel, Tencel/cotton blend fabrics were used in these sets of trial. Comparison of the samples produced so far showed that, tight packaging and use of single layer fabric and rolling bar enhanced colour and texture effects. Rolling bar intensifies the pressure and contact between plant and fabric, consequently traces can be achieved successfully. Wrapping with aluminium foil prevents from impairing effect of plant traces by non-contact fixation. During fixation it was observed that traces on the fabrics fixed in water were significantly weaker than that of fabrics placed above the boiling water. Almost the same effects were obtained by pre and simultaneous mordanting. Therefore, mostly simultaneous mordanting was preferred for other experiments in terms of time, energy and water consumption. Completely different results were obtained depending on light weight cotton, viscose, Tencel and Tencel/cotton blend fabrics. Tencel/cotton fabric had the lightest colours and the weakest traces. Light weight cotton and viscose fabrics were the best in this trials. Trial 7 and Trial 8: Light weight cotton, viscose and cotton/polyester blend fabrics were used.

Acid mordan mixture led to lighter and weaker colours/ patterns than mordants alone. However, iron resulted in darker shades and stronger plant traces than alum in both cases; alone and mixture. Trial 11 ensured good results with viscose and heavy weight fabrics. Thus this recipe was decided to apply to light weight cotton and Tencel/cotton blend fabrics. Viscose fabric gave good results with Trial 12. This recipe was decided to apply to light weight cotton and Tencel/cotton blend fabrics. Trial 13, Trial 14 and Trial 15: Light weight cotton fabric was used and mirror effect with plants was tried at the decorating stage. Alum highlights pinkish and reddish shades and generates softer colours than iron. In Trial 15, reddish colours were prominent but green shades also become remarkable. Trial 16, Trial 17 and Trial 18: Light weight cotton and viscose fabrics were used. Low concentration of copper mordant was found unsatisfactory. There was no difference between two fabrics types. Higher copper concentration was decided to use to see colour and texture effects. Citric acid alone was not effective. Egg white generated much stronger colour and texture effects due to its adhesive property and protein structure. Trial 19, Trial 20, Trial 21 Trial 22 Trial 23: Light weight cotton fabric was used. Trial 24, Trial 25, Trial 26, Trial 27, Trial 28, Trial 29, Trial 30: Light weight cotton fabric was used. All of these recipes provided satisfactory results. It was concluded that colour shades and trace effects dramatically changes depending on mordant type and mordant mixtures also can create alternative results. Among these group, Trial 25, Trial 26 and Trial 27 exhibited the best eco print effect. Trial 30: Only egg white was used on light weight cotton fabric without mordant. Although no mordant was applied, adhesive and protein structure of egg white allows plants to stick on fabric forming definite traces, texture and colours. Control samples without mordant were also prepared to compare with this and other samples. However, results of controls were not good and only partial colours with blurred effects existed. It was concluded that tight wrapping and non-contact boiling in water produced more penetrating and vivid patterns.

Trial 9, Trial 10, Trial 11 and Trial 12: Heavy weight cotton and viscose fabrics were used. The effect of citric acid with iron and alum mordant was assessed. July - August 2016

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

6. Discussion Appropriate mordant concentration, fixation condition and method (time/steaming/boiling/contact/non-contact etc.) are main factors to be determined by experience of practitioner. Each variable develops entirely different appearance. Fibre type (natural/man-made), absorbency, thickness and construction of the fabric are also essential factors directly affecting the result of the contact print.

PRINTING 7. Application of selected print recipes Selected recipes applied on light weight cotton, % 50 Tencel/ % 50 cotton blend and cotton knit fabrics are demonstrated in Table 7.3. Table 7.3. Selected recipes and conditions Application

Fabric

Mordant

%50 Tencel/ %50 cotton blend

15 g/L Iron II sulphate

Light weight cotton

15 g/L Iron II sulphate

Light weight cotton

10 g/L Alum+ 5 g/L Iron II sulphate

Light weight cotton

15 g/L Copper II sulphate

Light weight cotton

10 g/L Iron II sulphate + 5 g/L Alum

Light weight cotton

10 g/L Alum

Light weight cotton

10 g/L Iron II sulphate + 5 g/L Alum

Cotton knit

15 g/L Copper II sulphate

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Fabrics were immersed for 5 minutes in relevant mordant solution and laid down the table, egg white was applied over the fabric. Plant pieces were decorated symmetrical/ assymetrical/irregular forms and tightly rolled using bar and wrapped with aluminium foil. They were put in the strainer by capping and steamed above the boiling water. After cooling they were unfastened, rinsed with tap water and dried at room temperature. Figure 7.3 shows some of the visual effects obtained.

July - August 2016

PRINTING only one parameter causes significant variation and entirely different unique designs. Contact/eco print and dyeing technique is a vast and rich application field bringing art and scientific method together in which designers and artist may exhibit their unlimited creativity and imagination.

8. Evaluation and Implications In this study, the effects of various mordants, applications and fixation techniques on obtaining the impressive patterns, textures and colour shades were examined by using cotton, viscose, Tencel, Tencel/cotton and cotton/polyester blend fabrics. The most satisfactory methods were identified and visual effects were achieved successfully. Irrespective of plant and recipe content, light colours, faint and very blurred traces may be achieved on the fabrics only with water. However, if more satisfactory results, vivid and impressive traces are aimed, experimental parameters such as fabric/fibre and mordant kind, fastening, packaging, wrapping and fixation methods etc. have to be compromised. These processes need to use recipes in the light of technical knowledge, experience and practices including each parameter. An useful method was also developed by using egg white to simulate protein structure of animal fibers. Egg white apparently amplified the print effect and resulted in more sharp edged, attractive and vivid patterns due to its protein structure and adhesive property. It allows plants to stick on fabric by forming clear and vivid traces, textures and colours. Each fabric and mordant ensure different results. The best traces and darkest colours were achieved by iron mordant. With alum mordant relatively lighter/softer colours and patterns were produced. If rolling bar is not used plants and consequently deformed or more faint patterns may occur. Steaming the package wrapped with aluminium foil supports the creation of more impressevive visual effects on fabric surface. Mordants enriched the colour gamut, changed the colour shades, intensified the plant patterns and improved colour yield in eco print. Mostly copper, iron and alum produced cinnamon, brownish, greenish shades; dark khaki, mink, brown, navy shades; more pinkish, reddish, yellowish lighter/softer shades respectively. Technical knowledge, experience, practice and accurate recipes are the key elements of successful patterns. Even, the change of July - August 2016

References 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

16 17

18 19

Ismal Ö E, Yedi, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Dergisi, 6, 23, (2011) Dogan Y, Ba?lar S, Mert, H H, Ay G, Economic Botany, 57 (4), 442, (2003) Oktav Bulut M & Akar E, Journal of Cleaner Production, 32, 1, (2012) Hou X, Chen X, Cheng Y, Xu H, Chen L, Yang Y, Journal of Cleaner Production, 52 ,410, (2013) Karaboyaci M, The Journal of Textile Institute, 105, 11, 1160, (2014) Karaboyaci M & U?ur, ? S, The Journal of Textile Institute, 105, 8, 821, (2014) Ismal Ö E & Yildirim L, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 37, 4, 358, (2012a) Ismal Ö E, Coloration Technology, 130, 2, 147, (2014) Kadolph S J & Casselman K D, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22 (1/2), 15, (2004) Haar S, Schrader E, Gatewood, B M, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(2), 97, (2013) Siva R, Current Science, 92 (7), 916, (2007) Mathur J P, Gupta N P, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 3, 28 (2003) 90. Ismal Ö E, Yildirim L, Özdogan E, Journal of Cleaner Production, 70, 5, 61, (2014) Ismal Ö E, Yildirim L, Özdogan E, The Journal of Textile Institute, 106, 4, 343, (2015) Ismal Ö E & Yildirim L, Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, I. International Fashion and Textile Design Symposium Proceedings Special Edition-II, 5 (8), 9, (2012b) Eco Printmakers and Natural Dyers. Retrieved from https://wendyfe.wordpress.com/what-if-eco-print-artists/ Feldberg W, Turkey Red Journal, 18 (2), (2014) (http://www.turkeyredjournal.com/archives/V18_I2/ feldberg.html) Melvin H, Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, 234, 28, (2010, Summer) Kadolph S J, Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. Paper 105, (2008) (http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/105)

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Figure 7.3. Some print effects obtained via selected recipes and conditions

Acknowledgement I would like to thank Edanur Gündo?du for conducting experiments at the laboratory and atelier of Dokuz Eylül University Faculty of Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design Department.

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TESTING

Effect of Twist Multiplier on Weight and Thickness of Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Kathirrvelu S. Subramanian & Dereje Berihun Sitotaw, Textile Engineering, Ethiopian Institute of Textile & Fashion Technology (EiTEX), Bahir Dar University Abstract This study was mainly focused on the effect of twist multiplier on weight and thickness of single jersey knitted fabrics. For this study, 100% cotton carded ring spun yarns were used. The yarns used for knitting the single jersey fabrics were produced with three different twist levels like 900turns/m, 1050turns/m and 1200turns/m with 3.6, 4.2 and 4.8 twist multipliers respectively. Thus, three different single jersey fabrics were produced from yarns of these three different twist levels/multipliers. The testing of yarns and fabrics were done as directed in ASTM with specific designations to weight and thickness of knitted fabrics. The single jersey produced from 900turns/m twist of yarn is named as Sj1, from 1050turns/m as Sj2 and from 1200turns/m named as Sj3. From the results, it was found that the fabric weights (GSM) and thicknesses were significantly affected by twist multipliers.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Knitted fabric, fabric thickness, fabric weight, single jersey, twist multipliers (turns per meter)

1. Introduction Knitted fabrics, especially ready-made knitted garments, T-shirts, underwear and lingerie are an important part of the textile sector. The reasons for their usage can be explained in various ways: Firstly, it has an elastic and light structure; secondly, single jersey fabrics are easily and quickly produced; thirdly they have a lighter weight and lower production cost, and finally, because of their smooth surface, they are convenient for printing [1] & [2]. Single jersey fabrics are generally used to make underwear and outerwear such as T-shirts. Compared to woven structures, knit fabrics can more easily deform or stretch by compressing or elongating the individual stitches that from the fabric. The dimensional parameters of single jersey knitted fabrics produced from cotton are influenced by twist factor of the yarns used for knitting. The knit fabrics are having wider use in time since they can be produced more easily for a lower cost, and they are more flexible [3 - 4]. Researchers showed that Fabric thickness depends on loop shape, compactness of structure and relative closeness of the loops.GSM depends on knit structure, yarn count and dimensional properties of knit fabrics. When fabrics density is more, fabrics weight is also more [5 - 7]. * All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dereje Berihun Sitotaw, Textile Engineering, Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX), Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia Email : dere96@yahoo.com 92

The Single Jersey knitted fabric properties especially the dimensional and physical properties are mainly influenced by the constituent fibers, yarn properties, knitting machine variables, processing and finishing treatments [8]. The dimensional properties of knitted fabrics are dependent up on the twist factor of the yarns. The fabric thickness and weight are the main properties that the customer mainly focuses when ordering single jersey knitted fabrics to be produced. Many researchers and knitting technologists are focusing on the control of loop length for controlling the fabric weight and on yarn count for fabric thickness. However, the yarn twist multiplier has also greater influence on these two properties. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials The materials and equipment listed in Table 2.1 are used to collect the data required for this research work. The data is collected from M/s.MAA Garment and Textile Factory, Mekele, Ethiopia Table 2.1: Equipments and materials used Name of equipment

Type of the Tests

Located in

Atlas twist Tester

Twist

MAA Garments

Atlas Count Tester Linear density of yarn

MAA Garments

Uster tester-5

U%, CVM, Thin, Thick, Nep

MAA Garments

Cutting Dies

GSM, Abrasion, Pilling, Bursting, MAA, EiTEX

GSM

Fabric weight

MAA, EiTEX

Thickness gauge

Fabric thickness

EITEX

July - August 2016

TESTING 2.1.1. Fiber Properties Fiber properties included in this work are those from which the sample yarns and fabrics are produced. These fiber properties are provided to indicate that the yarns for this study are produced from the same fiber only. Cotton fiber is used in this study for it is the dominant raw material in textile factories especially in Ethiopia. The test is done by taking random samples from five different bales and the average results are shown in Table 2.2 Table 2.2: Fiber properties

Fiber Properties Type of Origin fiber

Staple length in mm

Short fiber index

Nep

Trash % Micronaire

Cotton Indian (100%)

30.6

10.4

207.4 3.58

3.78

2.1.2. Spinning Machine Parameters The spinning machine parameters used in this work are related to ring spinning machine on which the yarns were spun. The following are the data about ring frame machine which was used to produce the yarns. ◆ Machine type: RIETER G33+ ◆ Material: carded, 100% cotton ◆ Twist: 900, 1050 and 1200 ◆ Twist Factor: 3.6, 4.2 and 4.8 ◆ RPM: 16000 ◆ Traveler: 25 ◆ Spacer: 3.0 (White) ◆ Break Draft: 1.19 (69T) 2.1.3. Yarn Parameters This work is designed to study the effect of yarn twist on single jersey knitted fabric weight and thickness

properties by testing the yarn and fabric samples using Zweigle Uster Tester standard and are used for the analysis of the yarn properties related to twist effect. 2.1.4. Knitting Machine Parameters The fabrics for this study are produced in MAA Garment and Textile factory on circular knitting machine with the following machine parameters as shown in Table 2.4. 2.2. Method This research is designed to study the effect of yarn twist on single jersey knitted fabric weight and thickness properties by collecting relevant data and samples. Cotton fiber is dominant fiber for circular knitting machines in Ethiopia which is imported from India and its properties are identified for this study. The yarn parameters, excluding of yarn twist are controlled, with constant value. These fabric properties are supposed to be studied which are produced from three different yarn twists spun with the same material, machine settings and parameters. The methods for this work are listed below. 1. Produce yarns with different twist levels and other yarn parameters as constant 2. Study yarn properties by carrying out proper testing 3. Produce knitted fabrics from these yarns of three different twist levels. Study the fabric properties by carrying out proper testing using American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) [9 - 11]. With this standard, many of the tests were done for ten specimens at the standard atmospheric conditions, at 21±1°Cand 65±2% at EiTEX laboratory. 4. Analyze the results obtained from testing using MS Office Excel and One way ANOVA from SPSS (Software Packages for Social Sciences).

Machine type

Twist (1/m)

CVM

Thin_50%

Thick+50%

Neps+200%

Ring frame

900

13.97

17.90

38.8

612.8

844

1050

13.88

17.83

31.6

646.8

827.8

1200

13.53

17.37

24.4

557.6

791.6

Table 2.4: Knitting machine parameters for sample fabric production Speed (rpm) 20

Adjusted loop length (mm) 3.21

July - August 2016

Machine Diameter (inch) 34

Number of needles 2976

Gauge 28

Needle type Latch

Number of feeder 108

Number of cam track 4 93

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.3: Yarn specifications

TESTING 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Results 3.1.1 Fabric Weight Fabric mass per unit area is expressed either as grams per square meter (ounces per square yard), or grams per linear meter (ounces per linear yard). Fabric mass is also sometimes expressed inversely as linear meters per kilograms (yards per pound) with the fabric width stated. For this study, gram per square meter is used. The tests were done as directed by ASTM in Test Methods D 3776 (option B) [10]. Full width fabric sample is used with laboratory sampling for acceptance method. The products studied here are single jersey knitted fabrics and the test records are shown in Table 3.1.

3.2.1. Fabric Weight (GSM) Mass per unit area of the fabric for the single jersey knitted fabrics is studied. The results in table 3.1 show that the mass for single jersey fabric produced from 40Ne with twist level 900turns per meter (Sj1 TM= 3.6) yarn lies 80g/m2 to 87g/m2 which has an average weight of 83.9g/m2. The single jersey fabric produced from 40Ne with twist level 1050 turns/m (Sj2 TM= 4.2) has the weight between 98gm-2 and 106gm-2 with an average GSM of 103gm-2 whereas for the single jersey fabric produced from the same yarn count but with twist level of 1200turns/m (Sj3TM= 4.8) the mass lies in between 110gm-2 to 121gm-2 with an average weight of 116.7gm-2.

Table 3.1: Test records for GSM Fabric type

Sample

g/m2

number 1

Average

83.9

Single

Sj1

jersey

Sj2

100 105 105 102 100 98

105 104 105 106 103

Sj3

116 114 120 120 117 110

115 116 118 121 116.7

3.1.2. Fabric Thickness The determination of fabric thickness is done as per ASTM D 1777-96 standards which are termed as Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials [11]. The single jersey fabrics knitted using yarns of three different twist levels are studied. The test option is option 1 and the thickness test results are given below in Table 3.2. Table 3.2: Thickness of knitted fabric Fabric Sample

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

type

Fabric Thickness (mm)

number 1

0.32

0.4

0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

0.422 0.4

10 Average

Single Sj1

0.4

0.4 0.4089

jersey Sj2

0.5

0.52

0.5

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.53 0.515 0.52 0.5 0.5228

Sj3

0.6

0.56

0.6

0.6 0.6 0.6 0.62 0.62

0.62 0.6 0.6069

3.2. Discussion For the analysis of the test results, one way ANOVA in SPSS and Microsoft Excel are used. The hypotheses were formulated for this study since statistical data cannot substitute engineering/science. The hypotheses are 1. Twist multipliers have an effect on weight of the fabric as the yarn gets more compacted with increased twist multiplier. 2. The fabric thickness increases with an increase in twist multipliers with reduced fabric bulkiness since the fabric will have more resistance to presser with greater twist multipliers as compared to low twist multipliers. 94

Figure 3.1: Effect of yarn twist level on knitted fabric GSM

As observed from the test results, the mass per unit area of single jersey knitted fabric increased as the twist level or twist multiplier increases. This is due to the fact that the fibers are compactly held together in the yarn. The protruding fibers are less and the yarn extensibility is reduced with springy (or snarly) nature of the yarn. Due to the yarn liveliness, the unwinding tension is high and hence, the needles failed to receive more yarn. This creates high friction between yarns and needles that cause needle breakage and reduced loop length which in turn affects the fabric weight. Figure 3.1 show that the single jersey fabrics have more mass per unit area variations in proportion to the twist level of the yarns. In these fabrics, the twist level has an effect on GSM of single jersey knitted fabrics especially since the GSM difference between high and low level twist is 32.8 gm-2. The mean difference is significantly different for single jersey fabric as shown in Table 3.3 since the Sig. is 0.000. This means that the three twist multipliers affect the fabric weight differently and are independent of each other with great mean difference. July - August 2016

TESTING Table 3.3 : Multiple Comparisons of Knitted fabrics GSM Dependent Variable

(I) Knitted fabrics produced (J) Knitted fabrics produced Mean Difference from different twist level from different twist level (I-J)

Weight of

Std. Error

Sig.

1050

-19.10000*

1.23228

0.000

jersey

1200

-32.80000*

1.23228

0.000

(g/m2)

900

19.10000*

1.23228

0.000

1200

-13.70000*

1.23228

0.000

900

32.80000*

1.23228

0.000

1050

13.70000*

1.23228

0.000

single

900

1050

1200

* The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.

* The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. The Table 3.4 is the ANOVA table that shows the effect is significantly different i.e. the effect is significant (F = 357.440, Sig. = 0.000). Table 3.4 ANOVA of fabric weight Sum df of Squares

Mean Square

Sig.

Weight of Between single jersey Groups

5427.800

2713.900 357.440 0.000

(g/m2)

Within Groups

205.000

27 7.593

Total

5632.800

3.2.2. Fabric Thickness Table 3.2 shows that the single jersey fabric produced from 900turns/m (Sj1 TM= 3.6) of yarn has the fabric thickness in between 0.32mm to 0.42mm with an average of 0.4089mm. Single jersey knitted fabric produced from twist of 1050turns/m (Sj2 TM= 4.2) has the thickness between 0.50mm and 0.53mm with an average thickness of 0.5228mm whereas for the single jersey produced from 1200turns/m (Sj3 TM= 4.8), the thickness lies in between 0.56mm and 0.62mm with an average of 0.6069mm.

Texttreasure It is paradoxical that many educators and parents still differentiate between a time for learning and a time for play without seeing the vital connection between them. - Leo Buscaglia

July - August 2016

Figure 3.2: Effect of twist multiplier on fabric thickness

The Figure 3.2 shows the average thickness for the fabric produced from the three different twist levels. In this figure, it can be seen that yarns twist level has different effect on knitted fabric thickness. The figure also shows the variation between fabrics produced from yarns of different twist levels. The single jersey fabric produced from 40Ne yarn of TM 3.6 has 0.4089mm thickness, 4.2 TM has 0.5228mm thickness and 4.8TM has 0.6069 and the difference between the fabrics thickness in between low and high twist multipliers is 0.198mm. From the above, we saw that the twist level variation has an effect on single jersey knitted fabric. The fabric knitted with low twist yarn has low thickness since the yarn structure is opened and when the pressing load is applied on the fabric, the constituent fibers get distributed to the open parts of the fabric which results in flattening effect. This effect thus leads to the reduced fabric thickness. However, fabrics knitted using yarns 95

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Particulars

TESTING of high twist multiplier provide high thickness readings due to its compacted structure between the fibers in the yarn which can resist the presser force.

The fabric thickness of the single jersey knitted fabrics also increased with an increase in twist levels of the yarns. This may conflict the perception of users

Table 3.5: Multiple Comparisons for fabric thickness Dependent Variable

(I) Knitted fabrics produced from different twist level

Thickness of single

(J) Knitted fabrics produced from different twist level

Mean Difference (I-J)

Std. Error

Sig.

1050

-.11390*

.01062

.000

1200

-.19800*

.01062

.000

900

.11390*

.01062

.000

1200

-.08410*

.01062

.000

900

.19800*

.01062

.000

1050

.08410*

.01062

.000

900

jersey (mm) 1050

1200

*. The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. The multiple comparisons in the Table 3.5 show that the effect of each twist multiplier is significantly different one from the other on single jersey fabrics. Therefore, the mean difference between the thickness of fabrics produced from yarns of different twist levels are significantly different at 0.05 significance level, i.e Sig. = 0.000. Table 3.6: ANOVA of fabric thickness

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Particulars

Sum of Squares df

Thickness Between 0.198 of single Groups

jersey (mm)

Mean F Square

Sig.

0.099

0.000

Within Groups

0.015

27 0.001

Total

0.213

175.096

As shown in Table 3.6, the mean difference of fabric thickness is significant in the single jersey knitted fabrics. This can be seen from the parameters of ANOVA table. (F = 175.096, Sig. or P = 0.000 for single jersey knitted fabrics). 4. Conclusion From this work, it is found that the twist multipliers of yarns significantly influence the weight and thickness of single jersey knitted fabrics. The weight of single jersey has increased with an increase in twist multipliers of the yarns since the constituent fibers bind to the body of the yarn and contribute to the fabric weight. 96

with respect to fabrics' visual thickness. The visual thickness is about the bulkiness which is not a measurable dimension. It appears that the bulkiness gets reduced with an increase in twist level. But, actually, the fabric thickness increases with the increase in the twist of the yarns. In general, the twist multiplier of the yarns significantly affects the single jersey knitted fabrics weight and thickness. In case of these two properties, there is a positive relationship with twist multipliers of the yarns. 5. Acknowledgement We would like to thank Mr. Addisu Ferede, Asst. Professor and Scientific Director of Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology and M/s.MAA Garment and Textile Factory, for the permission, help, support and comments of our research work. References 1.

Deiirmenci Z., Topalbekiroilu M., Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80) pp. 81-85. Abdel Megeid Z. M., Al-bakry M. and Ezzat M., The influence of stitch length of weft knitted fabrics on the sewability, Journal of American Science, 2011;7(8) July - August 2016

TESTING 3. 4.

Punj SK, Mukhopadhyay A, Chatterjee P. Plain Knitted Properties. Textile Asia 2008; 31: 33-38. D. J Spencer, Knitting Technology (Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, 3rd edition, 2001). Elias Khalil1, Md. Solaiman2, Effect of Stitch Length on Physical and Mechanical Properties of Single Jersey Cotton Knitted Fabric, International Journal of Science and Research (IJSR), Volume 3 Issue 9, September 2014 Q.M. Wang and H. Hu,Geometrical and Dimensional Properties of Plain Knitted Fabrics Made from Glass Fiber Yarns for Composite Reinforcement, Journal of Industrial Textiles 2007 37: 139 Kumar V, Sampath VR. Investigation on the Physical and Dimensional Properties of Single Jersey Fabrics made from Cotton Sheath - Elastomeric

Core Spun. FIBRES& TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2013; 21, 3(99): 73-75. 8. J.C.sakthivel,N.Anbumani, Dimensional properties of single jersey knitted fabrics Made from new and regenerated cellulosic fibers, journal of textile and apparel technology and management, volume 7,Issue 3,spring 2012 9. ASTM Practice D 1776, "Conditioning Textiles for Testing". 10. ASTM D3776 / (2013), Standard Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric, American Society for Testing and Materials, West Conshohocken, PA, USA. 11. ASTM D1777 - 96(2011), Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ❑ ❑ ❑

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Picture shows their latest laboratory model Air permeability tester LABAIR which meets to all the known specifications in the world. Mr. Reto, CEO of Textest AG as you can see in the picture sold many Portable Air Permeability Testers during the show.

July - August 2016

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For further details contact: Thymas Electronics Pvt. Ltd., Regd. Office: "YOGIDHARA", 2, Nandanvan Society, Near VMC Gas Office, Indubhai Patel Road, Behind Railway Station, Alkapuri, Vadodara - 390 007. Gujarat. India Phone: + 91 265 2312730 / 2351634 E-mail: thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com Webpage: www.thymas.com 97

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TESTING

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TESTING

PEER REVIEWED

Dimensional Stability of Cotton, Cotton/Tencel, and Tencel Plain Weft Knitted Fabrics Spirality and Fibrillation Ramasamy K. A.1, Nalankilli G.2, & Shanmugasundaram O. L.3 Dept. of Textile Technology, EIT Polytechnic College, Kavindapadi, 2 Principal, Nova College of Engineering and Technology, Jafferguda, 3 KSR College of Technology, Tiruchengode, 1

Abstract Dimensional stability of knitted fabrics with respect to spirality and fibrillation is investigated in this work. Knitted fabrics were produced with three variations in tightness factor. 30 Ne pure cotton, cotton/tencel (67:33), cotton/tencel (33/67) and pure tencel yarn were used to produce plain weft knit fabrics. Fabric samples were subjected to wet and tumble dry relaxation. Spirality was determined after wet and tumble dry relaxation. Multi level regression analysis was performed to determine fabric contribution in the development of spirality. From the analysis, it is concluded that stitch length is the major contributing factor. Relaxation treatment is also influencing the spirality. The influence of fibre type is significant, but its percentage contribution is lowest. The FESEM image of wet treated and fully relaxed samples were analyzed for fibrillation. It is observed that the tumble drying does not induce fibrillation. Keywords Cotton; Fibrillation; Relaxation; Spirality; Tencel.

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Ramasamy K. A. Dept. of Textile Technology, EIT Polytechnic College, Kavindapadi-638455, Tamilnadu Email: ramasamyeitpc@gmail.com July - August 2016

series of spun yarns. They have concluded that the magnitude of spirality could be affected by yarn selection, Further, they added that the reduction of yarn torque could only be partially reduce spirality. Lau et al had confirmed that single jersey fabric was more prone to spirality [5]. Jian Tau et al investigated the effect of yarn and fabric contribution on spirality of cotton single jersey fabrics [6]. They revealed that twist and fabric tightness factor as predominant factors. Primentos discussed the spirality of cotton plain knitted fabrics [7]. He had discussed about the nature, origin and characteristics of spirality effect. He has also compared the fabrics made from conditioned and unconditioned yarns on spirality. Primentos and Iyepe worked on an innovative method for the reduction of the effect of spirality by introducing a new concept [8]. They used false twist texurising to deal with yarn torque and observed the reduction in spirality upto 30%. Chen et al claimed that the twist, loop length, fiber diameter had a significant effect on spirality [9]. Kothari studied the spirality of cotton plain knitted fabrics with respect to yarn and machine parameters [10]. He has stated that relaxation process like washing and tumble drying develop spirality. But the extent of spirality is decided by the ease of freedom with the 99

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Dimensional stability of knitted fabrics, particularly plain weft knitted fabrics has extensively analyzed by research workers. Knitted fabrics are prone to dimensional instability due to its delicate loop structure. Dimensional study that includes spirality would be appreciative since it would help to understand plain knitted fabrics in terms stability. Spirality is a common problem in single jersey knits. It develops on wetting and tumble drying. Spirality has been subject of analysis since 1930s. Davis and Edwards explained that the residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending and tumbling is the most important phenomenon contributing spirality [1]. They have also described about the causes of spirality and the effect of the same on garments [2]. Banerji and Alaiban during their study had concluded that spirality was determined by yarn twist liveliness, tightness factor and machine gauge [3]. De Araijo and Smith investigated the nature of spirality of knitted fabric [4]. They analyzed the spirality of wet and fully relaxed fabrics made from a

TESTING release of unbalanced torque. Fibrillation is unique to standard tencel. Fibrillation is the longitudinal splitting of strong fibres to give macro fibre surface hairs of diameter less than 1.4 microns. The crystalline fibre possesses a fibrillar structure in which micro fibres are arranged parallel to the axis. This has a tendency to fibrillate because of the high orientation and lack of lateral cohesion, This occurs when the fibre is subjected to mechanical abrasion in a wet state. At the same time controlled fibrillation could be advantageous. Chemical treatments have been tried to control the degree of fibrillation [11, 12]. Mak et al have detailed about the primary fibrillation, enzyme clean, secondary fibrillation, dehydration and tumble drying. Finally, they concluded that tumbling does not generate long fibrils [13]. Nicolai et al conducted experiments to reduce fibrillation tendency using cross linking compounds and some poly functional reactive dyestuff [14]. They stated that reactive dyeing with poly functional dye stuff and resin finishing reduced fibrillation of lyocell. Similarly Wangsun et al treated lyocell fabrics with different cross links using SDC (Shock -Dry - Cure) procedure [15]. Different binds were tested. They observed reduction of fibrillation to nearly zero with substantial reduction in dye uptake. They have also suggested a treatment of pre stabilization and consecutive alkali treatment to fulfill the requirement of controlling fibrillation without reducing dye uptake. Hence fibrillation is also an important aspect as spirality when the dimensional stability of tencel and its blend

fabrics are concerned. At the same time work on these aspects with tencel and blend fabrics is not available in the literatures. Hence this study of spirality and fibrillation would help us to understand this Eco friendly fibre in the perspective of dimensional stability. 2. Material and Methods A multilevel full factorial design was used in this work during design of experiments. It is shown in the Table 2.1 Plain weft knitted fabrics were produced using pure cotton, cotton/tencel (67:33), cotton/tencel (33:67) and pure tencel yarns. 30 Ne yarn was produced in the cotton spinning system. Characteristics of yarn are given in the Table 2.2 [16]. Plain weft knitted fabrics were produced with the stitch length of 2.7mm, 2.9mm and 3.1mm giving tightness factor of 16.3, 15.2, 14.2. Knitting was performed using commercial knitting machine Shinta - 2005 (Taiwan make). This machine was with 14 needles per inch and 20 inch diameter. The number of feeders and speed of the machine was 60 and 60 rpm. Spirality was measured after wet relaxation and after tumble dry relaxation. During wet relaxation samples were immersed in water at room temperature for 24 hr with occasional soaking. Samples were washed at 60Â°C in a standard washing machine for 30 minutes with a standard wetting agent (SDC reference detergent Type II) then tumble dried at 60Â°C for 60 minutes during tumble dry relaxation. For measurement of spirality, IWS Test Method No. 276 was used.

Table 2.1 Design of experiments used during this study -Multilevel full factorial design Level 1

Level 2

Level 3

Level 4

Fibre composition

Pure cotton

Cotton/tencel (67:33)

Cotton/tencel (33:67)

Pure tencel

Stitch length

Stitch length 1(2.7mm)

Stitch length 2 (2.9mm)

Stitch length 3(3.1mm)

Relaxation treatment

Dry relaxation

Wet relaxation

Tumble dry relaxation

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Factor

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org

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TESTING Table 2.2: Properties of Yarn

Characteristics

Pure cotton

33%tencel/67% cotton

67%tencel/33% cotton

Pure tencel

Count

29.2

29.3

29.5

29.7

Count CV, %

1.2

0.69

0.72

0.74

Single yarn strength, gm/tex

19.12

19.32

20.74

28.49

CSP

3086

3617

4648

5054

Elongation, %

6.18

6.21

6.83

10.06

9.67

9.41

9.58

Yarn diameter, mm

0.177

0.161

0.163

0.165

Yarn diameter (swelling), mm

0.225

0.224

0.221

0.222

Packing fraction

0.543

0.713

0.633

0.614

Hairiness, H

5.7

5.43

5.32

5.22

Bending rigidity, mg. mm2

72.13

42.3

31.55

15.73

Coefficient of friction (Yarn to metal)

0.15

0.07

0.06

3. Result and Discussion Fibre composition, stitch length and relaxation treatments were the factors considered while spirality is

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

discussed. In order to determine the importance of each factor on which spirality is studied, ANOVA was carried out using the statistical software MINITAB 17 to interpret the experimental data at 5% significance level. The individual contribution of fibre composition, stitch length and relaxation treatment and interaction effect was determined using experimental data. Table 3.1 shows the ANOVA for spirality. It is observed from this analysis that stitch length is the major contributing factor in the magnitude of spirality. The contribution of stitch length is 64%. On the other hand relaxation treatment contributes 30% to the spirality. But fibre composition contributes only to 3.8%. Though the contribution of fibre type to spirality is significant it is marginal when compared to other two factors. Similarly, the interaction effect of factor is 15%. This interaction is mainly between dominant factors only.

Assessment of fibrillation was carried out on fabric which was wet treated and relaxed. Scouring and bleaching were done using the soft flow machine. Relaxation of wet treated fabrics was done following 5 cycles of relaxation as recommended in STARFISH project. Since the tight structure is having a more specific surface (ratio of surface area to volume) than other two structures only samples of fabrics produced with 2.7mm stitch length were analysed for fibrillation. Samples were analysed for surface morphology under Field Emission Scanning Electronic Microscope (FESEM). ZEISS Sigma machine was used to perform this analysis. Samples were coated with Gold-Palladium for 60 seconds before images are taken.

The Textile Association (India) VISIT US

Hall No 1, Stall No. H108 At

INDIA ITME 2016 3rd to 8th December, 2016, Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India July - August 2016

101

TESTING Table 3.1: Analysis of variance of spirality

Source Model

DF 17

Adj SS 92.88

Adj MS 5.46

F-Value 201.74

P-Value 0.00

Linear

91.46

15.24

562.88

0.00

Fibre composition

3.57

1.19

43.99

0.00

Stitch length

59.94

29.97

1106.63

0.00

Relaxation treatment

27.95

1032.02

0.00

2- Way Interactions

1.41

0.12

4.75

0.03

Fibre composition*Stitch length

0.06

0.01

0.39

0.85

Fibre composition*Relaxation treatment

0.20

0.06

2.48

0.16

Stitch length*Relaxation treatment

1.15

0.57

21.25

0.00

Error

0.16

0.02

Total

93.04

Model Summary S

R-sq

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

0.1645 99.83%

R-sq(adj)

R-sq(pred)

99.33%

97.21%

Hence this study has reevaluated earlier finding that the tightness factor as the major contributing factor in developing spirality even for tencel and its blend fabrics. In tighter structure loops are close enough to prevent yarn from untwisting [3]. In this structure the mean value is between 4 o and 6 o. For medium structure, it is between 5 o and 7 o. Whereas for slack structure this value lies between 7 o and 10 o. Hence it slack structure on tumble drying develop spirality more easily. This indicates that the degree of freedom of movement coupled with agitation makes wale line incline more from the perpendicular line to course. De Araijo and Smith have also stressed that the magnitude of spirality is affected by relaxation treatment [4]. Slack structure being more open helps yarn untwist freely than other two structures while relieving twist liveliness.

tencel and tencel blend yarn coupled with low flexural rigidity helping the fabric to develop spirality easily [13].

But spirality value of all the samples is within the acceptable level of 10o. Lower spirality angle observed confirms the findings of Banerjee and Aliban [3]. They had stated that spirality decreased when the tightness factor is more than 14. Here in this study tightness factor of all the fabric is above 14. Figure 3.1 shows the interaction plot of the angle of spirality. Graph for fibre contribution is not flat. A slight increase from cotton towards tencel is observed. Graph of both relaxation and stitch length are identical on fibre composition. This could be attributed to the low friction of

Figure 3.2 shows the FESEM image of cotton fabric. It shows the distinct fibre structure. Figure 3.3, Figure 3.4, and Figure 3.5 are the FESEM images of the cotton/tencel(67:33), cotton/tencel(33:67) and tencel fabrics respectively. Even after the wet treatments and series of tumble drying cycles the extent of fibrillation and the length of fibrils are minimum. These fibrillations seem to isolate one. Fibrillation has occurred but this could have happened during the wet treatment of fabric for scouring and bleaching. When we observe pure tencel and cotton/tencel blended fabrics we

102

Figure 3.1: Interaction plot for angle of spirality

July - August 2016

TESTING could not visualize the difference in terms of the quantum of fibrillation. Even pure tencel is similar to cotton/ blend tencel fabrics. Hence this fibrillation might be from wet treatment processes. Fabric circulation in the machine during wet treatment could have caused abrasion to develop this kind of fibrillation. Effect of tumble drying on fibrillation should have been very limited. This is because all the samples of tencel and tencel blend fabrics show similarity in the images. Mak et al. has also concluded that tumble drying has not generated long fibrils [13]. It may be due to the inability of tumbling action to overcome the cohesive forces to separate fibrils from the fibre surface. Figure 3.4 FESEM Image of cotton/tencel(33:67) plain weft knitted fabric

Figure 3.2: FESEM Image of cotton plain weft knitted fabric

Figure 3.3: FESEM Image of cotton/tencel(67:33) plain weft knitted fabric

Texttreasure There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. -Aristotle July - August 2016

4. Conclusion Spirality of cotton, cotton/tencel blend and tencel plain knitted fabric is investigated in this study. The effect of fibre composition on the development of spirality is significant. Tencel and cotton/tencel fabrics develop slightly more spirality than cotton fabric. But the contribution of fibre type to the spirality is marginal only. Stitch length is the major contributing factor influencing the release of twist liveliness in the development of spirality. Similarly relaxation treatment has also influenced this tendency. Tumble drying induces more spirality than wet relaxation. Hence this study has reevaluated earlier findings on spirality to tencel and cotton/tencel blend fabric also. Even though the cause of spirality is twist as stated in the earlier work, the development of spirality depends on the tightness factor and relaxation treatments. 103

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.5: FESEM Image of tencel plain weft knitted fabric

TESTING Fibrillation of tencel and its blend fabric seem to be quite low. Even after wet treatment and series of relaxation treatments it seems that only secondary fibrillation has occurred. Isolated fibrillation might have occurred during the passage of material in the processing machine. Since images of tencel and tencel blend fabrics are identical we can conclude that the tumble drying has not induced the fibrillation. References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

9. 10.

11. 12. 13.

14. 15. 16.

Primentos, A & Iype, C., Indian Journal of Fibre &Textile Research, 28(3), 202(2003). Chen, Q.H., Au, K.F., Yuen, W.M & Yeung, K.W., Textile Research Journal, 73(5), 421(2003). Kothari, V.K., Singh, G., Roy, K & Varshney, R., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 36(3), 227(2011) Parul Gill, Pankaj Gill & Jeet singh, S.S., Manmade Textiles in India, 30(3), 93(2002). Udomkichdecha, W., Chiarakorn, S & Potiyaraj, P., Textile Research Journal, 72(11), 939(2002). Mak, C.M., Yuen, C.W.M., Ku, S.K.A & Kan, C.W., Journal of Textile Institute, 97(3), 241(2007). Nicolai, M., Nechwatal, A & Mieck, K.P., Textile Research Journal, 66(9), 575(1996). Zhang, W., Okubayashi, S & Bechtold, T., Melliand English, 7(8), 118(2006). Ramasamy, K.A., Nalankilli, G & Shanmugasundaram, O.L., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 38(3), 322(2014). ❑ ❑ ❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Davis, W & Edwards, C.H., Journal of Textile Institute, 25(3), 122(1934). Davis, W & Edwards, C.H., Journal of Textile Institute, 26(3), 103(1935). Banerjee, P.K & Alaiban, J.S., Textile Research Jounral, 58(5), 287(1988). De Araujo, M.D & Smith, G.W., Textile Research Journal, 59(5), 247(1989). Lau, Y.M ., Jao, X & Dingra, R.C., Textile Asia, 8(2), 95(1995). Joa, J., Dhingra, R.C., Chan, C.K & Abbas., M.S, Textile Research Jounral, 67(1), 57(1997). Primentos, A., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 28(1), 55(2003).

104

July - August 2016

MARKETING

PEER REVIEWED

Use of Advertisements and Media by Apparel Brands: What Works Best? M. D. Teli*, Aranya Mallick & Dipanwita Ray Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract Advertising gains ample importance when it comes to a necessity where the product faces a huge market competition. Fashion industry has become a niche market requiring aggressive advertising as a factor to stay above the rest. This research based on survey has revealed what advertising mode works the best, and additionally what aspects apparel brands can include to improve their branding. The goal of this research was to fill the gap between expectations of consumers and apparel brands with respective to advertisements and branding. Use of corporate social responsibilities (CSR) activities and sustainable practices for branding has also been highlighted. Data was collected by carefully developed questionnaire for consumers and apparel brands. The responses were analysed by charts and graphs. The findings showed that television commercial, newspaper and internet advertisements were the effective modes depending on age group (or target consumer). Involvement in environmental protection and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) in advertising was appreciated by consumers. The results of this research can be used for further analysis on a specific advertising mode or influence of CSR and sustainability for branding. It serves as an effective tool to enhance consumers' preference versus efforts of apparel brands.

1. Introduction "Stopping advertising to save money is like stopping your watch to save time" -Henry Ford. The brilliant quote by Henry Ford portrays the importance of advertising by itself. Facts and stats show that global spending on media is forecast to rise from $1.6 trillion in 2014 to $2.1 trillion in 2019 [1]. India is projected to be the second fastest growing advertising market in Asia (following China) in the years 20132018. The Indian market is expected to grow 10.7 % annually. It is estimated that the share of advertisement spend in Indian gross domestic product in 2018 will amount to 0.45 %, and in Hong Kong, for example, value is expected to reach 1.07 [2]. Advertisements form an integral part of marketing communication between consumers and company. `Advertisement' is derived from the word 'ad vertere', which means, 'to turn toward'; in Latin. The motive of advertising is to deliver the proper message to prospective customers, enhance the company's image, draw customers to the *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof.(Dr.) M.D. Teli, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai- 400019 Email: mdt9pub@gmail.com July - August 2016

business, and to hold existing customers. Today, advertising is widespread all over the world. The turbulent environment of the 20th century, is witnessing cut throat competition, rapid changes in technology, products, methods and emergence of new marketing challenges. All these only indicate the significant role of advertising in the survival and growth of business units. Advertisements aim to create awareness of the brand and its products, embed the brand image, and have a positive influence on the consumer's buying behavior [3]. Advertising uses every possible media to get its message through. It does this via television, print media like news-papers, magazines, journals, etc., radio, press, internet, direct selling, hoardings and banners, mailers, contests, sponsorships, posters, events, audio-visuals and even people (endorsements) [4]. The survey statistics in this report will give an idea of which is the most preferred advertisement medium that works the best for attracting apparel consumers. 2. Advertisements in Apparel Industry Throughout the years, apparel has been a basic human need and forms an important aspect in one's life for their protective, comfort, fashion, creativity or emotional needs. Then, the question naturally arises that why aggressive advertising is done for a basic human need? With the cut-throat competition in the fashion 105

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Apparel advertisements, Consumers, CSR activity, Effective advertising, Purchase intention.

MARKETING industry and apparel market, marketing plays a crucial role to differentiate one's products from the rest. New products are introduced; they rule the market for a while and then are made obsolete. The fashion industry has switched to a 'fast fashion' industry due to globalization, disposable income, media exposure, and global and psychological trends. To keep from falling from the eyes of consumers, building a brand image is essential for a company or manufacturer, and advertisements help in developing this. An advertisement is a blend of creativity and strategy. It has been found out that when brand awareness is effective, the price or convenience matters a little to the consumer and they consider repeated purchase from the brand which enhances a company's business [5]. 2.1 Channel of Communication A communication channel refers to a medium through which a message is transmitted to its intended audience. In order to sustain and succeed in today's vying environment, the apparel companies must be able to formulate effective marketing strategies for their target markets. The three channels as mentioned in Table 2.1 are used effectively and efficiently by a clothing brand.

meant to reach a large audience, not necessarily the target audience. ◆

Television Commercials: They can deliver enough product information to the consumer and at the same time be entertaining. TV is an expensive marketing channel but apparel companies usually do not discount its branding power.

◆

Newspapers: Newspaper advertising has been a very popular and widely used mode of advertisements. The content is usually minimalist but advertises new products launched, promotional sales, and brand name. Magazines: Although magazines have a reach to a mass audience, only the interested ones will read it. Hence, displaying an advertisement in a magazine needs thought as in which type of magazine will fetch them appropriate customers. Luxury brands mostly use fashion magazine and in-flight magazine to advertise their products. Textile journals are used by brands employing new technologies in their products. Billboards: Billboards are a traditional out-ofhome (OOH) advertising format. Apparel brands creatively build brand awareness by advertisements that are eye-catching for the passerby.

◆

Table 2.1: Channel of Communication Sr. Type No. 1 Above The Line (ATL)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Below The Line (BTL)

Medium

Purpose

Radio, Television, Very broad reach, Newspaper, Magazines, large, undefined Internet, Out-of-home target group advertising Vertical Banners, E-mail Marketing, CSR Activities, Events (e.g. Fashion Show)

Through The Line (TTL) Use of both ATL and BTL

Targets specific groups of people, Direct communication

◆

Corporate Social Responsible (CSR) activities: Increasingly, CSR activities are being given a lot of importance and companies are incorporating their CSR activities with their marketing activities. A manufacturer's good ethical practices and respect to environmental protection influences consumers' apparel buying behavior. Consumers are ready to pay a little extra to encourage such positive attitude in suppliers [6].

◆

Fashion Show: Fashion shows primarily showcase the new product launch. However, innovative digital marketing is combined with this by apparel brands to outshine each other. Many fashion shows are streamed online; magazine editors, fashion bloggers, digital-savvy celebrities are

Spans message to masses for better exposure and helps to target specific audience

2.1.1 Above The Line Marketing (ATL) Above The Line (ATL) refers to the promotional activities done at a large scale. The outreach of this type of marketing is to a mass audience. ATL marketing has the potential to create huge brand awareness as well as brand image about the company's product. They are 106

2.1.2 Below The Line Marketing (BTL) BTL is an unconventional method of advertising and forms a part of non-media communication. BTL promotions are directed to target customers as per their needs and preferences. Direct communication is done through event sponsorship, conducting events, banners, public relations, fashion show, etc.

July - August 2016

MARKETING seated on the front row to give a fashion house's newest line media exposure.

◆

2.1.3 Through The Line Marketing (TTL) TTL is an integrated approach which combines ATL and BTL marketing. ATL marketing is used to address the masses and then specific groups are targeted using BTL. For example, brands place a newspaper advertisement to invite people for store inauguration or sales. The mass audience gains brand awareness and the target customers reach the store. 2.2 Brands and their Advertising Scheme Apparel brands, both Indian and international, face a constant competition to sell their products. They depict their product style, class and prestige through advertisement that provokes consumers to buy. Some of the apparel brands are listed below with their common advertisements.

Killer Jeans advertisement: Killer Jeans had launched its water-saver jeans some years back. They claimed that 80 L of water was saved per pair of jeans by tweaking the manufacturing process along with reducing environmental footprint of chemicals and effluents [8]. The brand advertised this in a television commercial. Killer Jeans also carried out an advertising campaign titled `what's your cut?'. Print advertisements and Outof- Home advertisements like hoardings, bus wraps and panels were used to promote their campaign. The advertisement focused on sustainability and attempted to encourage young people.

2.2.1 Indian brands Raymond, Killer Jeans, FabIndia, Biba, Siyaram's; are a few Indian apparel brands making use of innovative advertising schemes as their advertising strategy. Raymond advertisement: Raymond advertises a `Complete Man'; - depicting a caring father sometimes, at other times a doting husband or a sincere friend. The man is shown to be wearing a crisply ironed Raymond suit, looking suave. The television commercial of Raymond became quite popular and connected well with the upper middle class people. In an advertisement to promote their line `made to measure', Raymond combined the ideas of 'craft' and 'science'. An article quotes Shailen Sohoni, COO, RK Swamy BBDO having said, "We have always taken care to not showcase Raymond as an elitist brand. Emotions and relations are the same across people and that is why the ads connect well" [7].

Figure 2.2: Killer Advertisement ◆

FabIndia advertisement: FabIndia never advertises aggressively. They consider their customers to be their best brand ambassador. Branding of FabIndia mainly takes place by word of mouth publicity. The company uses print advertisements, advertorials, mobile marketing, and in-store posters only during promotions.

Figure 2.3: FabIndia advertisement Figure 2.1: Raymond advertisement July - August 2016

◆

Biba advertisement: The video advertisements by Biba are based on their campaign `Change is 107

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

MARKETING Beautiful'. They address social issues prevalent in India like dowry and arranged marriage system, and also highlight gender equality in the modern era. Apart from these, the ethnic Indian attire is showcased in their print advertisements.

the Indian consumer. Television commercials, print media, internet advertisements are commonly used by Levi's India for marketing. The campaign by Levi's for the launch of its denims 'Revel' carries the intriguing tagline 'Let your body do the talking'. Television commercials deliver the product information and benefits in an entertaining way.

Figure 2.4: Biba Television Commercial

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

Siyaram's advertisements: Siyaram's is known to be a company spending lavishly on advertisements in India. Celebrity endorsement plays an important role in promoting their advertising campaigns. Saif Ali Khan, M.S. Dhoni, Rashmi Nigam have been their brand endorsers. Television commercials and print media are commonly used by them. The company also holds Siyaram's fabric shows that aim to increase awareness among its target audience about the company's range of products.

Figure 2.6: Levi's Advertisement ◆

Marks & Spencer Advertisement: M&S launched an advertising campaign focusing on linen in the country. Ritesh Mishra, head of buying and merchandising at Marks &amp; Spencer Reliance India, said: "By tailoring our linen over for our Indian customers to have more colours and styles all year round, complemented by our new linen marketing campaign, we're continuing to grow our linen business in India and take our customer engagement to another level"[9].

Figure 2.5: Siyaram's advertisement on billboard

2.2.2 Global brands Indian retailers are tying up with many international brands. They look after the retailing and marketing of these brands in India. ◆ 108

Levi's Strauss Advertisement: Creative advertisements by Levi's have always been appreciated by

Figure 2.7: Marks & Spencer advertisement ◆

Zara Advertisement: Zara, a fast fashion brand believes in bringing customers to them without July - August 2016

MARKETING

Figure 2.8: Zara advertisement

2.2.3 Luxury brands Luxury apparel brands from all around the world are stepping in India as they realise the presence of potential consumers in the country. Burberry, Armani, Louis Vuitton are a few of the luxury apparel brands in India. These luxury labels advertise based on the prestige that they have earned. Apart from advertising on fashion magazines, internet advertising by social media is stepping in. The brands have their Facebook page which is constantly updated with new product launch, fashion show, etc. Burberry has seen its revenue increase by 29% in 2014 through the use of social media campaigns and the increased courting of an online audience. A hefty amount is paid to their brand ambassadors. Louis Vuitton paid Angelina Jolie $10 million in 2011 and Robert Pattison allegedly got $12 million for his Dior campaign [10]. 3. Method 3.1 Research approach This report followed a qualitative research approach. A qualitative research refers to a method of inquiry employed in many different and social academic disciplines (social sciences and natural sciences), also in non-academic contexts like in market research, business, and service demonstrations by non-profits [11]. A thorough examination was done on consumer's purchase attitude as well as brand's sale based on the various modes of advertisements. A few consumers July - August 2016

were vocally interviewed while majority had to fill up a questionnaire consisting of multiple choice and text answers. Thus, the nature of this research is investigative and flexible. A qualitative research was hence suitable. 3.2 Data Collection Consumer Survey- Questionnaires were mailed to most of the participants, and physically distributed followed by an oral interviewed to a few. In all, 241 consumers participated in the survey. The responses were recorded online. The respondents belonged to the age group 15 to 50 years, of which, 38.1% (92) were female and 61.9% (142) male. Apparel Brands Survey- Questionnaires were mailed to the public relations (PR) or media department person from the respective brand as well as companies website were checked by the surveyor for data. A total of 50 apparel brands were initially chosen for the purpose and 41 out of it were finalized. The 41 apparel brands included Indian origin brands, global brands and luxury brands. 3.3 Ethical Considerations The consumers, who formed a part of the survey, participated voluntarily. They were informed about the background of the research, its purpose and their role in the survey. Also, it was mentioned that this research work is being done voluntarily and for non-commercial purpose. 3.4 Analysis The responses from consumers and apparel brands were recorded on two separate online forms and summarized using charts and graphs. Subjective answers were carefully studied and similar views were grouped. A few interview answers have been mentioned as said by the participants. 4. Results and Discussions 4.1 Consumer Survey The survey among consumers centered on finding out their preference regarding the best mode of advertisement. Consumers' reaction to CSR activities by apparel brands was also studied. A total number of 241 responses were recorded. 4.1.1 Preference of Brand Question: "How likely is it that you prefer international clothing brands over Indian ones?" The participants were asked to respond based on a 109

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

going to the customers, implying, they hardly advertise. Zara's parent company Inditex spends just 0.3% of revenue on advertising their products. Their store ambiance, shop window, and meeting market needs, serves to build a massive brand. The few print advertisements by Zara are during promotion sales. These advertisements are extremely minimalist.

MARKETING scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being least likely (strongly Indian brands) and 5 being most likely (strongly global brands). The responses obtained were as shown in Figure 4.1.

Figure 4.2: Factors causing purchase intentions from a brand

Figure 4.1: Preference of BrandsIndian versus Global

Majority of the consumers i.e. 39% (93) are neutral over their choice of Indian brands and global brands, i.e. they do not have any specific preference and would purchase both brand origins based on other choice factors. It is also seen that higher numbers of consumers are inclined towards Global brands over Indian brands. 14% (34) consumers strongly preferred global brands and 27% (66) preferred global brands slightly more than Indian brands. The percentage of consumers preferring Indian brands is on a lower side. 9% (21) consumers strongly prefer Indian brands and 11% (27) consumers prefer Indian brands slightly above global brands.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The possible reasons for this behaviour could be the zeal to follow western culture as well as the notion of considering Indian brands to be of inferior quality over global brands [12].

As seen from Figure 4.2, a big section of consumers i.e. 86% (207) purchase from an apparel brand because of the quality and comfort of the apparel. 51% (122) consumers purchase for the cost effectiveness and 30% (71) for schemes and discounts. Following this, brand name also played an important role for a consumer's purchase intentions. 41% (98) consumers purchase from an apparel brand because of their brand name. 35% (83) opted fashion trend, 14% (34) opted store ambiance. A minimal 3% (7) opted brand ambassador and 2% (6) mentioned other factors such as CSR activity of the brand, sophistication, 'love at first sight', etc. 4.1.3 Mode of Advertisement Question: "What advertisements have most influence on your apparel buying behaviour?" The participants could opt for multiple options from the given modes of advertisements. The responses obtained were as shown in Figure 4.3.

4.1.2 Purchase from a Particular Brand Question: "What factors make you purchase apparel from the particular brand?" Multiple options were given to the participants and they were allowed to choose more than a single option.

Texttreasure Great leaders are almost always great simplifiers, who can cut through argument, debate, and doubt to offer a solution everybody can understand. -General Colin Powell 110

Figure 4.3: Advertising Mode Influencing Purchase Behavior

It is clearly visible from Table 4.3 that word of mouth has the highest impact with 44% (107) influence on a July - August 2016

MARKETING consumer's purchase behaviour. Followed by that, 90 (37%) consumers chose television commercials, and 89 (37%) consumers chose website advertisements showing their similar effectiveness. Print media- newspaper advertisements also influence a decent percentage of the consumers i.e. 64 (26%). The possible reasons for consumers opting television commercials over print media could be the selection of participants as most of the participants voted online, it is quite natural for them to have an access over digital media like internet, television and smart phone apps. Therefore they have given the highest preference to digital media. It is seen that they also accepted print media as a useful tool of advertising.

etc. Thus, it is essential for a company to study the target customer to present an online advertisement. 4.1.5 Elements in an Advertisement An advertisement has various elements in it that are creatively built to attract the customer. The elements that are looked out for by the participating apparel customers were recorded. Question: "What do you look out for, in an advertisement?" Multiple options were given to the participants and they were allowed to choose more than a single option.

It is also observed that 5% (13) consumers are not influenced by any advertisements. When asked the reason for this, they said other factors like comfort, exploration, trying out various brands generally, and store ambiance influenced their purchase intentions.

Figure 4.4: Viewing of Internet Advertisements by Apparel Consumers

As the Figure 4.4 depicts, 53% (128) consumers pay attention to online advertisements sometimes and 27% (6) always pay sincere attention. Therefore, 80% (134) show positive response, implying that majority consumers pay attention to online advertisements provided certain parameters are fulfilled which may be: interest field, visuals of the advertisement, time of advertisement display (it may not be appreciated when an advertisement pops up in between an important work), July - August 2016

Figure 4.5: Elements in Advertisements that Attract the Viewer

As observed from Figure 4.5, 66% (160) consumers said that they look out for product information in an apparel advertisement. It is conspicuous that a majority of the consumers want to know about their product before purchasing it and not do a blind purchase. Consumer's usually tend to find out missing information in print apparel advertising by considering other sources such as media, word of mouth and salesperson in stores [13]. Schemes and Discounts have always been a customer attraction strategy. This is visible from the above data as 46% (112) are looking out for schemes and discounts in an apparel advertisement. Other parameters gained responses as follows- 28% (68) for level of consumer interaction, 27% (65) for advertisement theme, 13% (32) for videography in television advertisement, 11% (27) for brand ambassadors, and 1% (2) mentioned other parameters that included innovativeness and fun element. 4.1.6 Apparel Brands' Advertisements The participants were asked an open ended question: "Which advertisements of specific clothing brands do you like?" 20% of the respondents said they liked the television 111

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

4.1.4 Viewing of Internet Advertisements Internet is said to be a killer of the newspaper. Hence, we considered checking how influencing internet advertisements are for apparel purchase. Question: "Do you pay attention to online advertising?"

MARKETING commercials by Raymond-`made to measure', `complete man', `pure linen' and `smart fabric'. 12% said they liked Levi's television commercial. These were the two brands on majority. Other replies wereManyavar: TVC, Peter England: TVC, Mango: Kate and Cara TVC, Biba: TVC, Dior: multiple outfits change TVC. This indicates that television commercials are watched my many consumers and appreciated. The next majority replies were advertisements in which social causes and sustainability were shown. Some of them were- United Colors of Benetton: Print advertisements, Biba: `change is beautiful' advertising campaign, Killer: `water saver jeans' advertising campaign, Viva & Diva: Acid attack survivor Laxmi Saa on print advertisements. This shows that Indian consumers are very much concerned about social issues and that being addressed by an apparel company is acknowledged by them. Following this, newspaper advertisements of FabIndia, W, Aditya Birla Group's Liva, Van Heusen, Spykar, and Vero Moda were said by many participants. 4.1.7 CSR Activity by Apparel Companies It was found out that about 30% of the respondents wanted companies to incorporate donation of garments as a part of CSR. A few answers as given by the participants"Brands can put a scheme of buying new on old clothes, we can donate old clothes and brands can give us discounts. This can help in recycling of clothes. Many people just stop using the clothes because they get new ones."

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

"Large clothing or textiles companies should donate apparel to orphanages, old age homes, and even in case of floods, etc."

about the environment and the society. That way you don't just sell your product but also enlighten the customers." 4.1.8 Branding Strategy Question: "Suggest some innovative branding strategies that you have experienced or would want to in the future." The participants were free to answer in their own words. More than innovativeness, the replies obtained were focused on being practical. Some answers implied concern for the environment. One of them said, "Plus size models should also be included in the catalogues and advertisements. Not everyone is a size zero." On the same lines, another one said, "Reflecting actual user, normal and plus size body type, not skinny models". The ones showing environmental concern answered creative branding strategies which centered around tree plantation on purchase of apparel. A participant said, "Shoppers Stop's brand 'Life' used to have different environment related things on their tags. Once I got a mind map showing different ways I could save the environment and once I got a seed." 4.2 Apparel Brands Survey The survey among apparel brands centered on finding out the advertising modes they used and what worked best as per them. Use of CSR as an advertising tool was also studied. A total number of 41 responses were recorded. 4.2.1 Advertisement Budget Question: "What percentage of total sales volume is allotted for advertisements?" The responses were as shown in Figure 4.6.

"Give residual clothing material for weaving and spinning cheap garments for the underprivileged." A similar percentage of the participants said that environmental protection should be a priority for all apparel brand companies. Most of them were aware about the amount of water consumed by an apparel industry and the chemicals released in the effluents. "Clothing brands use a lot of water during manufacturing. I'd love to see them reduce water consumption and recycle the water (if possible) as part of CSR." said a participant. Another one said, "I think that every advertisement that is made should consist of a slice of awareness 112

Figure 4.6: Budget allotment for advertisements

62% (26) of the participating brands allotted 1%-3% of their total sales volume for advertising. 26% (11) July - August 2016

MARKETING allotted greater than 3%. A smaller group 12% (5) spent less than 1% on advertising. The advertising cost depends on the mode of advertising and the frequency. Most of the brands spending greater than 3% were luxury brands. Although the frequency of advertisement is not very high by them in order to show exclusivity, selection of brand endorsers and internet advertising have high cost.

Question: "Which modes do you generally use for BTL activities?" Various BTL modes were kept as options for finding out the most suitable one.

4.2.2 Modes of Advertisement â&#x2014;&#x2020; Ratio of percentage of ATL to BTL advertising used

Question: "What is the percentage of ATL (above the line) and BTL (below the line) activities?" A few commonly used ratio of ATL to BTL advertising used were given as option. The apparel brand had to choose the one it usually follows.

Figure 4.9: BTL Advertisement Modes

As seen from Figure 4.8 and 4.9, Newspaper advertisements, Fashion magazine and Fashion shows were found to have the highest response from 83% (34), 71% (29), and 54% (22) of the participating brands respectively. 61% (25) used television marketing, and 57% (24) used social media for advertising. This shows that print media advertising is more widely used than digital media.

Figure 4.7 indicates that using ATL and BTL marketing in the ratio 60:40 is the most common among apparel brands as 54% (21) brands do so. Marketing in the ratio 30:70 is the least used. â&#x2014;&#x2020; ATL and BTL advertisement modes used

Question: "Which modes do you generally use for ATL activities?" Various ATL modes were kept as options for finding out the most suitable one.

Figure 4.8: ATL Advertising Modes July - August 2016

55% (23) apparel brands use fashion show as a medium for advertising their brand and the newly launched product line. This is the BTL advertising mode that is used by maximum number of apparel brands. Fashion shows are streamed on various digital media which further enhances its advertising efficiency. Other BTL advertising received responses as follows: 36% (15) advertise on hoardings and banners. 26% (11) sponsor events for advertising. 17% (7) promote their brand through CSR activities. 9% (4) promote their brand by roadshows. 19% (8) used other methods like word of mouth, tie up with corporate and offices, concept stores with unique themes, contents on shop window. 4.2.3 Elements in an Advertisement The elements that apparel brands focus on in their advertisements were found out. 113

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.7: Use of ATL and BTL marketing

Other ATL advertising received responses as follows: 40% (17) advertise on billboards. 24% (10) advertise on in-flight magazines. It has been observed that more than 80% of passengers read the magazines airlines place in front of them, and readers average around 30 minutes a flight with the magazines [14].

MARKETING Question: "On what parameter is your advertisement focused?" Various options were given for finding out the most suitable one.

Figure 4.10: Elements in an Advertisement

The responses show that maximum brands i.e. 79% (33) have their advertisement based on their brand name, followed 71% (30) brands focusing on apparel design. 43% (18) brands focus on the theme and background of the advertisement. 33% (14) brands consider the field of the celebrity. 29% (12) highlight the features and benefits of the products in their advertisement. 5% (2) brands focus on other parameters such as targeting young consumers, go green concepts. 4.2.4 CSR Activity The participating apparel brands were asked to mention the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) activities that their companies incorporate. A few options were given as well as an open answer section was kept. The responses are as shown in Figure 4.11.

reach programs and provide aid to maternal and child health services. 12% (5) provide medical assistance and hold awareness campaigns. A minimal 5% (2) and 2% (1) make ethical use of resources and conduct various drives (Blood Donation, Tree Plantation, etc.) respectively. Only 1 (2%) apparel company in India considered donation of rejected, unsold garments to the needy or collect old clothes for recycling purpose. Raymond recently launched a 'Look Good, Do Good' initiative in partnership with GOONJ, a Non-Government Organisation. This unique exchange program aims at giving back to the society by helping to clothe the needy. As a part of this social initiative beginning from August 6, 2016, customers can walk into any Raymond store with their old trousers and exchange it for free stitching of a new trouser. It gives the customer a chance to give away their old trousers to people in need and also experience custom tailored trousers crafted from Raymond Fine Fabrics. As far as global brands are concerned, it was studied that they do practice garment recycling in the USA. Levi Strauss & Co. in the U.S.A. has a program where in consumers could drop their clothing or shoes which they do not want any longer in collection boxes at their local Levi's store. The consumers were given a 20% off voucher. Further, their clothing collection partner ensured the garments are re-worn, re-purposed or recycled [15]. Bringing in such concepts in India will definitely benefit a huge population who still lack the basic need of clothing. 48% (20) brands opted for none of the mentioned activities but answered other activities that their association incorporated.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

These included:

Figure 4.11: CSR Activity by Apparel Companies

Maximum brands 45% (19) include Go Green concepts as a part of their CSR activity. 36% (15) make sure to maintain factory standards and avoid labour abuse. Also, safety workshops are conducted for the ones working in the industry. 31% (13) contribute to assist girl child education. 21% (9) have rural out114

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While selling clothes an effort to serve as a homily on Women's emancipation, Upgrading slums, Vocational Training, Urban Infrastructure.

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Donation to charitable causes helps when natural disasters occur.

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Partnership with the World Wide Fund for Nature and protection of biodiversity.

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Longstanding commitment to the preservation and promotion of the arts and the solidarity initiatives.

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`I Will Vote' reward campaign to motivate youngsters to vote July - August 2016

MARKETING 4.2.5 Effect of CSR activity and Eco-Friendly Activity on Customers Question: "Do you think the CSR angle of the brand assists you in increasing your sale or positive perception among consumers?"

ception toward the brand is generated by the consumer. 4.2.6 Most Effective Advertising Mode Finally, it was determined that which particular mode of advertisement does the apparel brand think is the most effective. Question: "Based on your analysis, which mode of advertisement is the most effective?" The majorly used advertising modes were given as options and only one of the options could be chosen by the apparel brand.

Figure 4.12: Effect of CSR on sales and positive perception by consumer

As seen from Figure 4.12, 61% (25) apparel brands replied yes; 29% (12) apparel brands replied No; 10% (4) apparel brands weren't sure about the effect of CSR on sales and positive perception by consumers. Question: "Do you think eco-friendly concept advocated by your brand assists you in increasing your sale or positive perception among consumers?"

Figure 4.14: Most Effective Advertising Mode as per Apparel Brands

Figure 4.14 indicates that as per apparel brands, Print Media is the most effective form of advertising followed by Television Commercials. 36% (15) brands opted Print Media and 26% (11) brands opted Television Commercial whereas 17% (7) brands opted Magazines. Similarly, 7% (3) brands opted Websites whereas 5% (2) brands opted Brand Endorsers and Billboards respectively.

As seen from Figure 4.13, 59% (24) apparel brands were positive; 24% (10) apparel brands were negative and 17% (7) apparel brands weren't sure for the effect of eco-friendly angle on sales and positive perception by consumer. Thus, it is observed that maximum brands do think that CSR activities and Eco-friendly angle advocated by their brand increase their sales and a positive perJuly - August 2016

A television commercial takes lots of time and money for the set-up, video shooting, etc. To release a television commercial frequently is difficult. While, for frequent advertising, use of print media can be very convenient as it mainly requires just a photo shoot. An advertisement in digital media, however attractive may be, has only a few seconds of display. Printed media, on the other hand, stays long and gives slow but almost 100 fold impression. 115

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Figure 4.13: Effect of Eco-friendly angle on sales and positive perception by consumer

The possible reasons for a higher number of apparel brands opting print media over television commercials could be as follows: Print media is a vastly used media. Among masses, almost every literate common person reads the daily newspaper. Digital media is still limited.

MARKETING 5. Conclusion In this research, consumers' perspective and apparel brands perspective towards different modes of advertisements, elements in an advertisement and CSR activity were studied. The motive of our survey was to find out what advertising mode works best in apparel industry. The results of the survey showed that Word of Mouth has come up as a promising tool for advertisement and this can be implemented for better sale. However, it is not a standard mode of information and requires other advertising modes for initiation. Not only do advertising generate word of mouth publicity, but also the quality and style of the product do so. Consumer satisfaction through style, quality and service can trigger word of mouth greatly. Creative advertising strategy that makes the brand stand out from the rest can be implemented. Television commercial, print media, internet advertising also influenced a big section of the consumers. The most effective mode of advertising as considered by apparel brands is print media. However, we believe that advertising mode used based on target customer has the highest potential to influence ones purchase intentions. There was a slight difference between the consumers' perspective and apparel brands perspectives towards the studied themes. This report can help apparel brands to understand these differences and take steps for bridging this gap.

4. 5.

10. 11.

12.

13. References 1.

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https://www.cmocouncil.org/ factsstatscategories.phpiview=all& category=marketing-spend https://www.statista.com/topics/2116/advertisingindustry-in-india/ Kim H. S., Hong B. S., and Jo E. Y., Emotional response to apparel advertisements and consumer values: A cross cultural study, Journal of Shopping

14. 15.

Center Research, 7 (2) (2000) http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/definition/ advertising Khan A. A., Jadoon S., and Tareen N. A. K., Impact of advertising on brand awareness and commitment in female apparel industry, Journal of Social Science, 6(3)79-94, (2016). Teli S. M., Significance of corporate social responsibility in the trade of retail branded apparels, Journal of the Textile Association, 72(1)36-41, (2011). http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/ 2012-07-18/news/32730790_1_raymondaniruddha-deshmukh-first-ads http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/ brand-equity/turning-waste-to-life-upcyclingdeluxe-killer-jeans-levis-set-a-trend/articleshow/ 52634419.cms http://brandequity.economictimes.indiatimes.com/ news/business-of-brands/marks-spencer-focuseson-linen-in-new-marketing-campaign-for-india/ 52234242 https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/fashionadvertising-campaign-big-business-brand-identity http://www.snapsurveys.com/blog/what-is-thedifference-between-qualitative-research-andquantitative-research/ Kumar A., Lee H., and Kim Y., Indian consumers' purchase intention toward a united states versus local brand, Journal of Business Research, 62(5)521-527, (2008). Hsu J. L. and Mo R. H. C., Consumer responses to incomplete information in print apparel advertising, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 13(1)6678, (1996). http://pdf.secdatabase.com/1862/0001193125-12078137.pdf http://www.levistrauss.com/unzipped-blog/2015/ 07/clothing-recycling-us-expansion/ â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018;

We promote your business to the right target Visit : wwwtextileassociationindia.org 116

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PEER REVIEWED

Consumers Attitude towards Apparel E-Shopping as Related to Ease of Use, Security and User's Relative Advantages Preeti Singha & Radha Kashyapb* Department of Home Science, The IIS University b Department of Fashion & Textile Technology, The IIS University a

Abstract Advances in Internet technologies have grown tremendously over the years. One of the major applications of internet technologies is that along with it online shopping has grown to a great extent. The purpose of this study is to explore the attitude of male and female shoppers towards online shopping. Snowball sampling technique was used to select 200 respondents in the age group of 21-30 and 31-40 years with online shopping experience. The number of males and females taken were 90 and 110 respectively. The data obtained from the survey was analyzed by using t-test. The results of the study revealed that there is no significant difference in the attitude of male and female shoppers towards ease of use and user's relative advantages for online shopping. But there is a significant difference in the attitude of male and female shoppers towards security while shopping online. Keywords Consumers attitude, Ease of use, E-shopping, Security, User's relative advantage.

Consumer's attitude towards online shopping refers to their psychological state in terms of making purchases. Internet shopping has been widely accepted as a way of purchasing products and services. It also provides consumers more information and choices to compare products and prices, convenience and ease to find anything online [1]. Online shopping has been shown to provide more satisfaction to modern consumers seeking convenience and speed [9]. On the other hand, some consumers still feel uncomfortable to buy online. *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. Radha Kashyap Department of Fashion & Textile Technology, The IIS University Jaipur - 302 020 RAJ Email: radha.kashyap@iisuniv.ac.in July - August 2016

Lack of trust, for instance, seems to be the major reason that obstructs consumers to buy online. Consumers also may have a need to examine and feel the products and get some consumers reviews about the products before purchasing. Such factors might have a negative influence on consumer decision to shop online. Since the payment while shopping online are most likely made with credit card, the consumers sometime pay attention to seller's information in order to protect themselves [7]. Customers tend to buy products and services from the seller who they trust, or brand that they are familiar with [3]. Online trust is one of the most critical issues that affect the success or failure of online retailers [8]. Security seems to be a big concern that prevents customers from shopping online. They are worried that the online store will cheat them or misuse their personal information, especially their credit card [4]. For instance, a report indicated that 70 percent of US web users are seriously worried about their personal information, transaction security, and misuse of private consumer data [5]. Online consumer behaviour is a broad and interesting area of study that can benefit organizations in their efforts to market and sell products online. As consumers' attitude towards online shopping is a prominent factor affecting actual buying behaviour, this research attempts to investigate a mod117

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1. Introduction Online shopping is a type of E-commerce in which consumers directly buy goods or services from a seller over the internet. Online shopping is done through an online shop, e-shop, e-store, Internet shop or an online store. All the products in online stores are described through text, photographs and supported with multimedia files. Many online stores provide links for extra information related to their products. Online shopping allows consumers to buy faster, as alternatives are available and the consumers can order products and services after comparing the lowest price [2].

OTHERS est part of that area. The main objective of the study is to explore the attitude of male and female shoppers towards online shopping. Hypothesis H1: There will be a significant difference in the attitude of male and female towards online shopping 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Locale of the study The respondents involved in the study were selected from the Jaipur city. 2.2 Selection of Sample Size The sample size selected for the study was 200 online consumers. Out of which, 90 were male and 110 were female respondents in between age group of 21-30 years and 31-40 years. 2.3 Sampling Technique Snowball sampling technique was used in the study.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.4 Tools of data collection A structured questionnaire was taken on women's attitude towards online shopping developed by Hirst & Omar [6]. The questionnaire was divided into 3 sections. The first Section dealt with ease of use towards online shopping. The second Section dealt with security related to online shopping. The third Section dealt with user's relative advantage. 15 items were included in the questionnaire. A five point Likert Scale was used to get the responses which included options like: 5- Strongly agree, 4- Agree, 3- Neutral, 2- Disagree, and 1- Strongly disagree. Chronbach's alpha was used to check reliability of Attitude towards online apparel shopping towards ease of use (0.70), security (0.82) and user's relative advantages (0.85). 2.5 Statistical analysis of data The collected data was analyzed using statistical techniques such as mean, standard deviation, t-test. All the statistical analysis was done with SPSS 22.0.

Texttreasure The world will not be destroyed by those who do evil, but by those who watch them without doing anything. -Albert Einstein.

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3. Results and Discussion Table- 3.1 Attitude of male and female shoppers towards ease of use Variable

Gender N

Ease of use Male

Mean SD

t-value Significance level

12.71 1.71 0.490

Female 110

0.624

12.59 1.73

Significant at 0.01** and 0.05* level The results of above table show that the mean value of ease of use for male and female respondents is 12.71 and 12.59 respectively and SD is 1.71 and 1.73 respectively. The above table indicates that t-value of ease of use is 0.490, which is (p<0.05) not significant. Hence, the alternative hypothesis is rejected at 0.05* level i.e. there is no significant difference between the attitude of male and female shoppers towards ease of use while shopping online. It is concluded that both male and female shoppers find ease of use as an important factor while shopping online. It is easy to browse or search the information related to the fabric, care instructions, various discounts and other schemes while shopping online rather than offline shopping. Table- 3.2 Attitude of male and female shoppers towards online security Variable Gender N

Mean

Security Male

13.10

2.02 2.846*

12.32

1.80

Female 110

t-value

Significance level 0.005

Significant at 0.01** and 0.05* level The results show that mean value of security for male is 13.10, whereas SD is 2.02. The mean value for females is 12.32 and SD is 1.80 respectively. The obtained't' value is 2.846 (p>0.01), it is significant at 0.01* level. Hence, the alternative hypothesis is accepted. It means that there is a significant difference in the attitude of males and females towards security while shopping online. It is interpreted that security is a dominant factor which influences consumers to shop online. However, many consumers avoid online shopping because of credit card fraud, privacy factors, non delivery risk, and post purchase services and so on. Results of the present study reveal that males find online shopping to be secured as compared to females. Females hesitate to make online payments because of the fear of disclosure of their account details. July - August 2016

OTHERS

Variable

Gender N

Mean

User's

Male

29.94

4.99

relative Female 110 29.74 advantages

t-value Significance level

4.51 0.295

0.768

ing information related to online transactions. Male and female shoppers both have a positive attitude towards shopping online. References 1

Significant at 0.01** and 0.05* level The above table further indicates that the mean score of user's relative advantage for males is M=29.94 and females is M=29.74. Their SD is found to be 4.99 and 4.51 respectively. The critical ratio is found to be 0.295, p<0.05 which is not significant. This indicates that the proposed hypothesis has been rejected i.e. there is no significant difference between males and females in their attitude towards user's relative advantages while online shopping. The study further reveals that there are a lot of user's relative advantages for both male and female shoppers as they find it easier and realistic to shop online as compared to shopping in physical stores. They believe that online shoppers have more options as compared to when they shop at physical stores. They are able to compare the prices of the same kind of products from different brands in shorter duration of time. Moreover, working males and females do not get enough time to go to a physical store and buy products as it is time consuming. 4. Conclusion It is concluded that there is no difference in males and females in terms of ease of use and user relative advantage. Male and females shoppers find it is easy to shop online than to visit a retail store as they are attracted towards the promotional schemes offered by the online retailers. However, the attitude of male and female shoppers while shopping online differs when it comes to security. Females are quiet apprehensive about revealing information related to online payment. Females think that sharing information about bank account credit card etc. might be at risk and can be misused. On the contrary, male shoppers are comfortable while making online payment with their credit/ debit card and they do not feel insecure about reveal-

Butler, P. and Peppard, J., Consumer purchasing on the internet: Processes and prospects. European Management Journal, 16 (5), 600-610, (1998). Cuneyt, K. and Gautam, B., The impacts of quickness, price, payment risk, and delivery issues on on-line shopping. Journal of Socio-Economics, 33, 241-251, (2004). Chen, R. and He, F., Examination of brand knowledge, perceived risk and consumers' intention to adopt an online retailer. Total Quality Management & Business Excellence, 14(6), 677, (2003). Comegys, C., Hannula, M. and Váisánen, J., Effects of consumer trust and risk on online purchase decision-making: A comparison of Finnish and United States students. International Journal of Management, 26 (2), 295-308, (2009). Federal Trade Commission, (2001). Privacy Leadership Initiative. http://www.ftc.gov/ bcp/workshops/glb/supporting/ harris%20results.pdf, FTC.gov.Federal Trade Commission, (2003), "Holiday shopping online?" http://www.ftc.gov/ opa/ 2003/11/holidayshop.shtm, FTC.gov. Hirst, A. and Omar, O., Assessing Women's Apparel Shopping Behaviour on the Internet. Journal of Retail Marketing Management Research, 1(1), 32-40, (2007). Lim, H. and Dubinsky, A.J., Consumers' perceptions of e-shopping characteristics: An expectancyvalue approach. The Journal of Services Marketing, 18 (6), 500-513, (2004). Prasad, C. and Aryasri, A., Determinants of shopper behaviour in e-tailing: An empirical analysis. Paradigm, 13 (1), 73-83, (2009). Yu, T. and Wu, G., Determinants of internet shopping behaviour: An application of reasoned behaviour theory. International Journal of Management, 24 (4), 744-762, 823, (2007). ❑ ❑ ❑

Meet your potential clients, boosting your sales and marketing activities July - August 2016

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Table- 3.3 Attitude of male and female towards user's relative advantages

TEXPERIENCE

Yarn Printing Textile coloration is an age old art and performed in various ways using variety of machines at various stages of processing. The usage of such textile material is not only restricted to apparel wear but is also being widely consumed in industrial applications. Yarn printing process produces beautiful effects and fancy designs which enhances sales appeal of dress material, children wear and home furnishings.

Dr. Ashok Athalye

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently a GM (Technical services) in Atul Ltd. He is heading the technical team in the area of textile dyes and chemicals for both domestic and international market. He has a vast experience of around 20 years in Technical services of dyestuffs and chemicals like ICI (India), ltd., Croda Chemicals, Jaysynth Dyechem Ltd., Serene Dyestuff Ltd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. and Indokem Ltd. Dr. Athalye did his Ph.D. (Tech.) Textile Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.) and B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT (formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. He also did Diploma (DIM), Advanced Diploma (ADM) and specialization in Marketing Management (DMM) from I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He has a vast knowledge in the field of dyes and chemicals. A Fellow of Society of Dyers and Colorists, SDC, UK, Dr. Athalye has many research and review publications to his credit. Email : ashok_athalye@atul.co.in

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Generally, the term dyeing (which constitutes nearly 80 % by application at fibre, yarn, fabric or garment stage), is used when the textile material is colored uniformly in solid shades while the term printing (which is also called as localised dyeing comprises about 20% usage) is applied in specific designs or patterns at the fabric or garment stage.However, there is also a niche but specialised segment of printing at yarn stage which imparts different colors spaced across the length of yarn and thus it is also called "space dyeing". The yarn printing involves imparting multiple colorson yarn to create abstract color patterns which may or may not repeat after fixed interval. Such 'space dyed' yarns produce beautiful effects after weaving and knitting and are used to produce fancy design when incorporated in apparel wear, dress material, children wear and home furnishing. Also, use of such printed yarn is becoming popular in carpet making industry which in its subsequent tufted fabric form imparts an effect of random, unorganized designs. Carpets are being widely used in corridors, lobbies, offices, classrooms, hotel rooms and other public areas. Space dyeing or yarn printing can be dyed in either coordinating or contrasting shades. The coordinating colors are tones of neutral or assorted shades of hues like blue, green, red which provide a subtle yet sophisticated look. While the effect of contrasting shades in space dyed yarn include mixing of purple, red, green and blue.Thus, space dyeing is a technique used to create lovely fabrics which shade from one color to another. Depending on the method used the fabrics can be softly muted or vibrant. In India this technique is mastered by many textile processors in regions like Bhiwandi and Ludhiana.

Yarns of different substrates like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester, Wool, Silk, Acrylic, Nylon and their commonly used blends can be printed by using various dye classes suitable for dyeing these substrates. Different methods of space dyeing application are possible, which include coloration in hank form, package form by manual dye injection by skilled operators or by machine dye injection, spraying or brushing of dye and by continuous process of spaced-dye application. July - August 2016

TEXPERIENCE The selection of dyes and chemicals depends on the type of substrate, method of dye application and the desired fastness properties. The yarn to be printed is pretreated as per the standard recommended processes depending on the machinery used and the method of application. The ready for printing yarn is assessed for the parameters like absorbency, whiteness index, residual pH, etc as per the requirement of subsequent coloration. After the dye application, further processing of dye diffusion, fixation and washing off of unfixed superficial color is done as per the standard recommended process for the dyes in use. Finally, the finishing is done for yarn lubrication, softening or antistatic treatment depending of the nature of substrate and the end use application.

Another variant of this method is dip-stick process. In this case different places of the yarn package are dipped in different dye solution so that multiple colors get applied at various places and with varying intensity which after unwinding of yarn provides a unique fancy dyed effect.

Given below are various ways of space dyeing | yarn printing

(ii) Machine processing - the ready for dyeing yarn is pretreated as per the standard application process for the specified substrate and dyed in a single package form in a machine which can dye upto 8 colors. Each color has a different feed tank as well as injector pump. The color is injected at a fixed place at high pressure and the excess color is collected through vacuum. This creates beautiful patterns of dyed patches on package with good sharpness. Subsequently the colored yarn package is given adequate dye fixation treatment followed by washing off of unfixed superficial dye and finishing with a yarn lubricant/softener.

Hank or Skein printing : the ready to print yarn in hank or skein form is mounted on a stand or laid on a suitable surface and then different colors are applied either by brush or by spraying at fixed placesto achieve the desired multicolour effect. Depending on the type of substrate and the dyestuffs used the hanks are then processed for suitable dye-fixation followed by finishing.

Space dyeing in package form - depending on the machinery available and the effect desired, the yarn printing in package form is done by two methods (i) Manual operation - colors are injected by hand at different places in the package using a syringe filled with the dye solution. The skill set developed by the technicians enable them to insert the needle in the package horizontally, vertically or at various angles and release the color while taking the needle out so that the required amount of dye is applied at the specified place in the package. July - August 2016

Knit deknit process - this process involves first knitting the yarn on a circular or flat-bed knitting machineinto a tubular fabric followed by printing using engraved rollers and then unravelling the knit to produce a space dyed yarn. As the printed color does not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it crosses itself, alternately dyed and undyed spaces appear. In another method, the pre dyed knitted material is overprinted with different colors and subsequently deknitted to produce contrast effect of overprinted and base dyedareas.This imparts a unique 'micro-spaced' design, owing to the limited dye diffusion during the printing stage. The unravelled printed yarn is rewound onto cones and used for subsequent knitting or carpet weaving. 121

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Though, this method imparts controlled yarn coloration at specified points and desired length, the process is cumbersome and time consuming and is mainly suitable for short length fabric.

TEXPERIENCE Since thisprocess achieves limited dye penetration into the yarn, as the pressure exerted by the printing rollers is insufficient to insure adequate dye diffusion, incomplete and non-uniform coloration may result. Also, there is a characteristic curl to the unravelled yarn due to pre-knitting which affects cut pile of carpets. Continuous or warp yarn printing - In this process multiple strands of yarn are continuouslyprinted at spaced intervals with different colors. These yarns usually have long spaces of each color spaced at about 3 to 7inches. The yarn is dyed as singles or piled form and the color is applied either by air jets or dye troughs.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Given below are few methods of continuous yarn printing for achieving space dyeing effect based on the information gleaned from various patented processes. One of the methods describes yarn dyeing at intervals along its length as it runs at very high speeds through spaced dyebaths. Another method specifiessystems where yarns are taken from wound packages on a creel and color is applied, either by lick rollers or bya spinning disc applicator. Such warp printing imparts a 'long spacing' design which is generallypreferred for manufacturing of tufted carpets. One process indicates passing of yarns between a pair of cylinders around the surface of which are mounted rows of small dye applicator pads. The lower cylinder is dipped into a trough of dye liquor which gets picked up on the surface of the pads and when the opposing pairs are in the raised position the yarn passing between them gets printed.

printing rollers apply dye to the yarn only when the lands of the two rollers are aligned across the nip.Another process incorporates printing rollers with grooves about their peripheries to provide a gear-like appearance. Thus when the yarn is deflected into the nip, that portion of the yarn which passes through the nip gets intermittently printed to achieve closely spaced marks or dots and thus further vary the dye pattern applied to the yarn. The advantage of space dyeing process over conventional solid dyeing is not only in terms of the intended special effect but also in terms of reduced consumption of dyestuff and chemicals, avoidance of printing thickener and considerable reduction in effluent. However, the challenges associated with yarn printing include process to avoid mixing or overlapping of colors along the length of yarn and onthe adjacent yarns which otherwise tend to result in visible streaks on the face of the fabric affecting its appearance. Another issue pertains to tendency of dye migration during the subsequent heat setting operation resulting in blurring of adjacent color bands affecting its appearance. Further, there is a chance of dye dripping or contact mark off between different yarn layers resulting in unwanted patches.Moreover, the dye overspray from the various colors being applied often mix together in a single collection system, which results in added costs for replacement of dye as well as for waste handling and disposal. This has necessitated further development of an in-line process for controlled, efficient and repeatable space-dyeingof yarn. Summary: Yarn printing or space dyeing is a technique used to impart a unique, multi-colored effect. When woven or knitted together for apparel, home furnishing and carpet making, beautiful patterns can emerge depending on the length and variation of each color block. Adequate use of dyes and auxiliary chemical combined with specialised machines can createfinished product as some of the best in the world. Presently the yarn printing segment occupies a miniscule (less than 1%) share in the textile coloration space, however, considering its potential to offer unique and customised print design effects it has great potential to grow by many folds in the near future.

Another method proposesspace dyeing by running yarn through the nip of printing rollers which have patterned grooves on the outer periphery. In this apparatus, the 122

July - August 2016

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' is being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for the recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffolds in future. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. In the previous chapter, the scope of textiles in the field of vascular tissue engineering with a focus on the cardiovascular tissues was covered. The uses of the different techniques for the preparations of different vascular tissues of the body were also put forth in the chapter. The critical requirements for the use of scaffolds for vascular tissue engineering and the biomaterials that can be used were also discussed briefly in the chapter. The new technologies that is been currently researched for the manufacturing of vascular scaffolds were also mentioned in the chapter. The present chapter is the concluding chapter of the series. The chapter puts forth the unsolved areas of tissue engineering in the various branches like wound healing, tissue adhesives, skin recovery, bone recovery and regeneration, dentistry and vascular tissue regeneration. These unsolved areas still pose a challenge to the researcher in the field of tissue engineering. Also the scope of the textiles in solving the challenges in these areas is discussed through the chapter. This chapter being last in the series, Authors would like to thank readers and JTA management for this opportunity.

Chapter 13: Challenges and further scope for textiles in medical scaffolds Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. R V Adivarekar

July - August 2016

ing the scaffold. As we have discussed in the third chapter of the series various biomaterials that are of natural origin and artificially prepared are used for the preparation of the scaffold structures. New innovative biomaterials are also be synthesized for the application as tissue engineering scaffolds. These new materials are also being researched for utilization in the form of textile scaffolds. Along with the synthesis of new biomaterials, newer techniques like 3D printing are also used for the manufacturing of the scaffolds. The most important factor is that the structure of the scaffold has to be designed according to the required tissue properties. Thus the various textile structures can be used in synergy to meet the requirements of the tissue to be regenerated. The field of tissue engineering and regeneration is very high on demand and the global market of tissue engineering is estimated to be $13.6 billion in 2016. The expected growth rate (CAGR) of the field is likely to be 34.9% from 2016 through 2021 thus to reach $60.8 billion by 2021 according to a reported survey. (http:/ /www.bccresearch.com/market-research/healthcare/tissue-regeneration-techs-markets-report-hlc101c.html)As already discussed throughout the series, the textile as tissue scaffolds have been applied in various tissue 123

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The term medical scaffold refers to a device of a three dimensional substrate with the purpose of providing a template for tissue regeneration. As discussed throughout the series the ideal scaffold properties include an appropriate surface chemistry and microstructures to facilitate cellular attachment, proliferation and differentiation. In addition, the scaffolds should possess adequate mechanical strength and biodegradation rate without any undesirable by-products. The production of scaffolds having the above mentioned properties is of critical importance for the field of tissue engineering. The application of textile structures as tissue engineering scaffolds is of high importance because of the properties conducive for the substitution of human tissue and organs. The properties of the textiles can be varied by varying its structural engineering. Knitted structures can be used when high elasticity is required. This type of elastic behavior is required for implants that are designed for the reinforcement of an organ subjected to continuous dynamic stress as for example vascular grafts. Non-woven textiles are having the structure that resemble the natural connective tissue in the body and thus can be utilized as they have mazy structure and good water absorptivity. Along with the structure of the scaffold the material used for the manufacturing of the scaffold is also very significant in design-

TEXNOTE engineering like tissue adhesives, skin grafts, dental tissue engineering, wound healing and bone recovery and replacement. As varied the field of tissue engineering is, so is the variation required for the preparation of these scaffolds. The various tissues to be tissue engineered require different properties and sometimes completely different altogether; e.g. the elastic behavior that is needed for the skin tissue engineering is a hindering property for the engineering the bone tissue, the bone tissue requires a scaffold that is rigid and not flexible. The difference in the requirement makes the tissue engineering field widespread and thus many researchers from different fields give their attempts to solve the still prevailing challenges in this field. The challenges in this arena are different for different tissues. As per the demand of the tissue to be engineered, the challenge faced by the engineer designing the scaffold is also different.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The challenges faced in the various tissue engineering field is categorized and summarized in the below text. Scaffolds as Tissue Adhesives : Tissue adhesive is a very useful agent for various surgeries, such as skin closure in wound care, vascular anastomosis, abdominal hernia as well as bone piece adhesive in osteo-surgery. Anastomosis is typically performed on blood vessel such as blood arteries or blood veins and urinary tract such as ureters or urinary bladder. Conventional adhesive alternatives to sutures for nerve anastomosis, such as Cyanoacrylates or Fibrin based surgical glues significantly reduce operating times. However they have the drawbacks of histotoxic effects when used for internal applications. Additionally the cyanoacrylates are studied and found to cause inflammation and also release formaldehyde and cyanoacetate. Thus the well-known adhesives also have their short-comings which need to be revisited. The incorporation of properties like anti-microbial activity or hemostatic behavior can prove to be adding value to the product aligning with the standard products in the market. Along with overcoming the limitations of the current tissue adhesives, the polymeric materials that are used for the preparation of tissue adhesives should have excellent biocompatibility, biodegradability for adrenal clearance, if the polymer itself is not degradable. Along with this, the ease of applicability for surgeons, better adhesive and mechanical properties, as well as more switchable adhesives allowing easy removal on demand are the factors to be consider among others while engineering the adhesives. 124

Scaffolds for skin recovery and replacements : The science of repairing the skin defects through transplantation of the skin grafts was discovered in year 1953 for epithelial or epidermal layer of skin. The growing of the layer in vitro was then evolved. But the time span required for their growth was up to 2 -3 weeks. Hence the discovery of allograft was made and the study of compatibility with keratinocytes was made. Initially, a clear distinction existed between dressing (e.g., gauze) and skin substitutes (e.g., split/ full-thickness grafts or tissue flaps). In the past 30 years, however, many more temporary skin substitutes have been developed. Laserskin (Poly Active Polyethylene oxide, Polybutylene terephthalate), Hyalograft3D (Microperforated hyluronic acid membrane), Integra (Bovine collagen matrix with Chondrotin-6-sulphate), Biobrane (Bi-laminated membrane formed by nylon mesh and silicone thin lamina with collagen as matrix), TransCyte (Collagen embedded Silicone film and nylon mesh), Dermagraft (Polygylconic acid / polylactic acid) and others are the various commercially available skin grafts. Of all these commercially available grafts the most crucial and challenging aspect is that, the time required for cells to replicate in vitro in sufficient quantities for clinical use is up to average 2 or 3 weeks. This unavoidable delay in the application of the engineered skin limits its practicality and thus still autografts, allografts are used as skin replacement options. The revascularization of the engineered skin substitute is also a challenging aspect. It is also observed that during the vascular ingrowth of the artificial skin the substrate assembly is most vulnerable to infection. Thus in case of the skin substitutes, wound bed preparation is the dragging factor as compared to the autograft skin treatment methodologies. In addition, without meticulous surgical debridement to achieve a vascularized dermis or dermal equivalent, it becomes very difficult for the keratinocytes to attach to the wound bed. This is especially so in the case of deep wounds with fat and granulation tissue that has lessarchitecture to support dermal and epidermal cell growth. Scaffolds as wound healing bandages: The engineered substitutes in the field wound healing are being continuously evolved due to the urge to deliver a better healthcare facility to the public. Scientists and engineers are staging a quieter evolution in basic patient care. In recent years, interdisciplinary teams of nano-scientists, engineers and surgeons have revolutionized the way we treat some of our most basic injuries- cuts, scrapes and wounds. Though the wound July - August 2016

TEXNOTE

Scaffolds for bone recovery and regeneration: Bone is among the hard tissue of the body and constitutes the framework of the human body. It is one of the most highly transplanted tissues and the number of grafting surgeries of the bone is increasing with exponential rate. Thus the solutions are being sought through bone tissue engineering by using various biomaterials, cells, and factor therapy in synergy. The various factors that have to be considered while designing a bone scaffold include the site of the bone tissue, the size of the defect or damage, mechanical stresses and soft tissue that cover the damaged site. Autografts are the most favoured choice of the surgeons but it has its own limitations. The researchers have carried out various studies in the field of bone tissue engineering by adopting a multi-disciplinary approach for regenerating the hard tissue.There is a very high level research being conducted in all parts of the world in the field of bone tissue engineering. However unlike integra, (artificial skin substitute) the integration of all tissue properties and functions in a single biomaterial system is still a research challenge unaccomplished. Though significant advances have been made in scaffold fabrication for soft tissue replacement using degradable synthetic polymers or natural polymers, hard tissue replacements have posed a potential challenge to biomedical engineers and surgeons. The hard tissues necessarily require bone grafting using either autografts or xenografts. The use of autografts possess a further challenge to the patient due to limitations on the availability, second site morbidity of tissues and patient associated problems. An alternative to this is hard titanium based implant with a bioactive surface is being used if the possibility of the use of autograft is not viable or unavailable. However, the use of titanium based implants create a particular problem of stress July - August 2016

shielding and adverse tissue reactions with the alloying additions used due to micro movements. The other polymer based resorbable systems made of polyurethane are sought as option to overcome the shortcomings of permanent Titanium implants. The challenges associated with use of these polyurethane based scaffolds include lower elastic stiffness and modulus compared to permanent Titanium systems. The hard tissue is largely a high importance tissue as the self-regeneration of the tissue through the natural process take significantly longer time as compared to the soft tissues like dermis. Thus if the system of permanent scaffold or permanent implant is placed in the human body, such implants are reported to fail before the death of the patient. The reason for the failure is the progressive deterioration of the bone in contact with the biomaterial. Many factors contribute to the gradual breakdown of this interface; micromotion, wear debris, infection, stress-shielding etc. Creating new biomaterials is now the greatest challenge in material science. Scaffolds in dentistry: Dental tissue engineering is a multidisciplinary field that involves various disciplines of health sciences, engineering and basic sciences, thus creating the need for the involvement of multidisciplinary personnel to come together for research. Complexity and lack of scientific knowledge about oral tissues is also an important factor for making dental tissue engineering a challenging task. The knowledge related to biomimetic approaches is limited and the creation process of the dental tissues is not known completely. The most crucial requirement of all dental tissues is hetrogenecity. Most of the dental tissues are not homogeneous and their anisotropic structure further adds to the complexity. There are also some tissue specific challenges; for example, enamel and dentin has no cell within the tissue, no blood supply and no ability of remodelling. There is need of more research in this area to support the tissue engineering of dental tissues to transport from laboratory to clinical applications. Scaffolds are one of the basic components of tissue engineering approach that directly interacts with cells and the tissue being engineered. The main challenges to design a dental scaffold remain to match are the mechanical properties (hardness, elastic modulus), physical properties (porosity, surface area) and biological properties (biocompatibility, degradation rate) to the natural tissue. Furthermore, scaffold must support throughout the life span of cells hence degradation rate and average cellular life must match. In any condition, no scaffold 125

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dressing has being revolutionised there are several challenges that need to be taken into consideration in developing a wound healing device. Overcoming the factors that contribute to delayed healing of the wounds are key components of a comprehensive approach to wound care and present the primary challenges to the treatment of chronic wounds. As for the variations in the wounds on the body, the rate of production of wound exudates also varies thereby possessing a challenge in the engineering of wound dressing suitable for all types of wounds. The reduction in the healing time of chronic wounds is also an important problem which is not solved yet. The conception of composite wound dressing in research is aiding in solving the challenges in wound dressing.

TEXNOTE should ignite any immunogenic or allergic reaction. Appropriate delivery methods are needed to transport not only cells loaded scaffolds but also biomolecules, growth factors and nutrients.

point, the potential immune response of these grafts remains a significant question, especially as many of these patients hope to be eligible for renal transplantation.

Scaffolds in vascular tissue engineering: Tissue engineered vascular scaffolds / grafts have very high potential to create a boon in the market of healthcare. However there are many challenges limit their use. The high cost of the scaffolds along with the significant amount of time required for the creation of these grafts is a critical challenge to their commercial use. The ease of availability is also limited due to the longer time required for the manufacturing of the scaffolds. Patients requiring lower extremity revascularization, coronary bypass procedures, and hemodialysis access may not have valuable months or even weeks to spare when it comes to the time required for conduit formation. From a biological stand-

A particular challenge in addressing materials is that, the processes are not yet completely understood well enough to allow a clear set of design parameters to be specified. Adaptation of already used materials can have some advantages from the regulatory perspective, as the safety and toxicity profiles of the materials in humans are already defined, but other performance aspects such as cell material performance interactions and degradation properties however are not assured. This need for substantially higher performance characteristics is pushing research and development in the design of new materials that meet specific performance criteria in tissue engineering.

About the Authors Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and Tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 125 papers in journals of national and International repute.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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July - August 2016

NEWS

COLORANT Ltd,, South India Business Meet heldat Tirupur COLORANT Ltd, Ahmedabad South India Business Meet held at Hotel Velan, Tirupur (TN)

Colorant Ltd., one of the leading Reactive Dyes manufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad, conducted the Meet on 9th September, 2016. Mr. Subhash Bhargava, MD, Colorant welcomed the distinguished delegates and guests from the textile units based in Tirupur, Erode, Salem, Perundurai, Nagri, and Coimbatore. He also explained about the present Dyestuff Industries position and how the big players in India and China are playing their role in price fluctuation of raw materials (dye intermediates). Being an SME, COLORANT has to struggle hard to become a consistent supplier in reactive dyes and catering to 650 end users and exporting to about 15 countries.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, MD, Colorant Ltd. welcoming the Delegates

Then Mr. Roy Stones, Global Marketing Head, Coloroot Ltd, Hubei, China delivered a mind blowing presentation on" Scope and potential of Fluorine Based Reactive Dyes in India". It was followed by a wonderful presentation on "Importance of SEF Graph and Profile in Reactive Dyeing" by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, President, Colorant Ltd. Vote of thanks was given by Mr. Mike, Export Manager, Coloroot Ltd., Hubei, China. There was an informative Question and Answer session. The meet was ably organized by the Colorant Marketing team from Ahmedabad and South. The meet was followed by Cocktail Dinner.

Lighting up the Lamp by Mr. Bhargava, Mr. Stones,Mr. Mike and Dr. Mahapatra

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion www.textileassociationindia.org July - August 2016

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NEWS

India's biggest digital printer manufacturer ColorJet bags 'Rising Star of Asia' award For sign & signage, the POLO TURBO is an industrial grade solvent printer, which achieves production speeds of up to 2,800 sq. feet per hour. It is a 8 head, 4-colour printer with printing resolution of 1,440 dpi and can print on media widths up to 3,300 mm and maximum thickness of 3.00 mm. Additionally, the company has recently upgraded its solvent printer NEPTUNE, which has been loaded with new features to make it more efficient and productive. The Neptune has an installed base of 1,500 printers, the highest among solvent printers in India. Mr. Smarth Bansal receiving the award

Mr. Smarth Bansal receiving the award India's biggest manufacturer of digital printing machines, ColorJet India Ltd. bagged the 'Rising Star of Asia 2016' award in the digital inkjet printer manufacturer category, at the Indo-ASEAN Global Investment Summit held in Bangkok, Thailand on September 17, 2016.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ColorJet India was joined by other Indian luminaries like, Bank of Baroda, Bajaj Electricals Ltd, Asian Paints, Future India Ltd, Indian Overseas Bank and companies from other ASEAN countries, who too bagged awards in various other categories. In its product portfolio, ColorJet India has several digital inkjet printers, which cater to the varying needs of users in the segments of textiles, sign & signage, SAV, PVC banner, backlit film, window film and solvent based fabrics. Among the many offerings for the textile industry, ColorJet offers VASTRAJET; a commercial grade digital textile printer offering production speeds of 4,000 metres per day, while being suitable for natural as well as polyester based fabrics like georgette, moss crepe, weightless, chiffon, etc.

Mr. Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at ColorJet India, who received the award said, "ColorJet feels honoured on receiving this coveted award, which has recognized CorlorJet as a 'Rising Star' in the Asian digital inkjet printing industry. We dedicate this award to our customers and the ColorJet team." The Indo-ASEAN Global Investment Summit is hosted by World Brands Review Corporation, a strategic brand and marketing consultancy firm, which possesses core expertise in various sectors, including reviewing brands, celebrity brand rankings and country wise reviews. For more information please visit www.colorjetgroup.com PR Contacts: Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net Smarth Bansal Brand Manager ColorJet Group Noida Cell: +91 98102-39602 Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

Visit Us On : Website : www.textileassociationindia.org 128

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NEWS

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, President, COLORANT Ltd., participated in Panel Discussion at Dhaka

Dr. Mahapatra presenting his views

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, President, COLORANT Ltd. & also Vice Chairman, The Textile Association (India) participated as the only guest from India in the panel discussion held by the Textile & Apparel Manufacturers and Exporters Forum at 3rd TEXAPP 2016, Dhaka, Bangladesh on 31 st August, 2016, held at International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh. The discussion was on "Driving business with Knowledge". Dr. Mahapatra urged on necessity of research and development within the companies. He informed that many Indian companies have installed their own continuous development cell which is helping them becoming more efficient day by day.

Dr. Mahapatra receiving the momento from Madam Meherun N. Islam, President and Group Managing Director, CEMS

And the industry will require more on job training and capacity building supports. Dr. Mahapatra herewith emphasized to build a habit of innovation to all. Every person should always do or think on further development. None should waste time in gossiping and unproductive things. Productive use of time of the people and a sharing and positive environment would help a nation to rise he concluded. It was organized by CEMS Global. Leading Industrialist and Academicians, Consultants, Journalists of Bangladesh participated in the Discussion. The moderator of the panel discussion was Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan and the other panelists were Mr. Faruque Hassan, Sr. V.P., BGMEA and MD, Giant Group and Mr. A.S.M. Tareeq Amin, Editor.

The Indian textile industry, the second most important worldwide, and the French textile machinery manufacturers, the 6th exporters, have historically established strong ties. The French manufacturers, often world leaders on their specific markets, are offering state-of- the-art machinery and service in long fibre spinning, yarn twisting and control, heat setting, carpet systems, nonwovens, dyeing and finishing, air and recycling processes. The 10th edition of INDIA ITME, from December 3 to 10 in Mumbai will be a very easy opportunity for the textile industrialists from India and the neighboring countries to see the French latest developments. July - August 2016

Evelyne CHOLET, Secretary General of the French Manufacturers Association states, "Our strategy is based on R&D. We are the successors of Jacquard, the most well-known textile machinery inventor. He was French. R & D is our DNA. INDIA ITME visitors, from India and other countries, should visit our booths to discover each individual company's innovations which are mainly derived from down to earth partnerships with our clients ". Hubert TRETSCH, of SUPERBA and President of the Association's promotion Committee would like to focus "on the very effective networks which have been 129

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French Machinery @ INDIA ITME 2016

NEWS set up by each company to offer the best service to the most remote customers' locations, service and spare parts. These are very important to get the best use of the machines, and at the end, the best bottom lines for our customers ".

The open fibers are used: - For respinning, saving cotton raw material which will reduce water consumption, pesticides on our fields and chemicals used during the dyeing and finishing process.

The French machinery manufacturers are well established in India, they operate with long time partners. They often visit India; for example, their latest road show in Delhi and Surat attracted more than 300 textile companies from Delhi, Panipat, Ludhiana, Amritsar, Ahmedabad, Silvassa, Vapi, Baroda, Vadorara â&#x20AC;Ś.

- For nonwoven, using LAROCHE AIRLAYS technologies. The open fibers can be used as sound acoustic insulation felt for the automotive industry or for building as thermic insulator felt which will reduce energy for heating or for cooling inside the rooms.

The French teams are very dedicated to their customers and the stability of these teams allows them to go well beyond the purely technical and address the long term objectives of their customers.

LAROCHE has supplied in 2015 a complete line from old garments to final Nonwoven felts in Guatemala. This line allows the recycling of old garments that can't be used in the second hand market, giving these textiles a new life in the bedding upholstery industry.

More information on the French textile machinery manufacturers can be found on the portal www.ucmtf.com

The objective is to recycle most all textile post-consumer waste to bring a life to new products. www.laroche.fr

The following French companies will exhibit: NSC Fiber to Yarn Stand H1S4 / Hall 1A N. SCHLUMBERGER and SEYDEL, members of "NSC fiber to yarn" Will introduce during the forthcoming INDIA ITME in Mumbai two new drafting heads: the chain gill drafting head GC40 and the screw gill drafting head GN8. These two types of drafting heads are perfectly adapted to process any kind of wool or wool like fibers as well as Cashmere.

AESA Air Engineering Stand A19/ H1 AESA Air Engineering is a global leader in industrial air conditioning which is so important to optimize the production processes in the textile industry. In Asia, AESA has offices in India, Singapore and China and a network of agents in many other countries.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NSC fiber to yarn will introduce its complete product range and in particular the latest developments in combing machine ERA40 and in gillboxes with the GC40 and the GN8. www.nsc-sclumberger.com LAROCHE Stand H1R4 /Hall 1A LAROCHE, Eco friendly solutions for the future Over the past 30 years, LAROCHE has been one of the leading companies around the world, deeply involved in the development of the textile waste recycling technologies, achieving great processes and continuously helping to discover new ecofriendly solutions for the future. LAROCHE offers today complete processes to open into fibers almost all types of textile waste. Taking as example, the post-consumer garments, LAROCHE's technologies can open the used garments into fibers removing all the bottoms and zips. 130

AESA combines rigor and experience, particularly for the textile industry, in which the company teams are specialized in spinning, weaving, knitting, nonwovens, dyeing and finishing, man-made fibers. The custom made solutions for each factory are focusing on optimizing the added value in term of precision, reliability, waste management and energy savings. www.aesa-ae.com SUPERBA Stand H6D9 / Hall 6 SUPERBA is the largest and most experienced manufacturer of high-tech heatsetting machinery. Since July 2015, SUPERBA is part of the family of companies from the Belgian group VANDEWIELE with very strong synergy effects in the carpet field. The company develops and produces integrated heatsetting lines for the processing of yarns that are used in the carpet manufacturing industry. India is an important and promising market for SUPERBA: since 2014, the company has a new agent in Mumbai, ATE, established in 1939, under the responsibility of Mr. Vikas Sharan. July - August 2016

NEWS

With more than 35 years of experience in the specialized field of high quality tufted and woven carpets, SUPERBA is providing innovative and competitive solutions with a complete range of machines: The well-known TVP3 heat-setting line is the main product of the company and has been significantly improved over the years leading to the latest version TVP3s that was presented at ITMA 2015. This line is very often completed with friezing devices: here also, the famous MF4 has evolved to the new patented MF400 friezing box, offering the carpet manufacturers a wider range of frieze effects and a newer style of yarn with very even waves. This friezing box can be used as a stand-alone accessory MF400, or be integrated into the new MLU universal laying head that enables to switch from straight-set to frieze mode within minutes. SUPERBA, already mastering the sophisticated spacedyeing technique for years, is now offering their latest machine type MCD3: this new version is able to continuously dye a bundle of 72 yarns, with a production of up to 300Kgs/h and a range of six spot colors. The new MCD3 also permits a new style of space-dyed yarn thanks to its exclusive bi-color technology, offering the carpet designer a wider range of possibilities. SUPERBA also provides the LV3 steaming and shrinking lines for the heat setting of acrylic yarns used in high density - high quality Persian carpets, now extended to 96 ends with a production of up to 10T/day. SUPERBA will be present at ITME-India on the VANDEWIELE booth in Hall 6 - stand H6D9. www.superba.com DOLLFUS & MULLER Stand H2aC6 / Hall 2A DOLLFUS & MULLER, founded in 1811, manufactures endless felts and dryer belts for the textile finishing factories.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

compacting felts for knit finishing sanforizing felts for denim and woven fabrics finishing printing dryer belts for textile printing sublimation blankets for transfer printing decatizing felts for wool finishing dryer belts for thermo-bonding ovens tensionless dryer belts for knit finishing

DOLLFUS & MULLER will introduce during INDIA ITME its improved compacting felt for knit finishing with major evolutions compared to other products in order to serve better the dyeing houses. The compacting felt quality brings a special care to the fabrics thanks to its smoothest surface, has an excellent guiding and the best compacting rate in relations with its new exclusive compacting felt design. The DOLLFUS & MULLER sanforizing palmer felts are ideal for denim producers. The company will as well show its proven durable sanfor felts. The DOLLFUS & MULLER Sanfor felts are recognised by most of the major machine makers as the best felts. Furthermore, DOLLFUS & MULLER will display its new durable printing dryer belt quality TAMIP HT 500 NR. This print dryer belt is the most durable printing dryer belt specially designed for pigment printing of bed sheeting. DOLLFUS & MULLER will as well display its exclusive print open mesh belt specially designed for the production of fine fabrics, scarves, flags; these belts have special non marking surfaces which can avoid as well the particles on the back side. The company manufactures many exclusive dryer belts for digital printing dryers. DOLLFUS & MULLER has the widest range of printing dryer belts and the strongest dryer belts. The Indian market is very important for DOLLFUS & MULLER, the French company is represented by different agents in India: ◆ for sanforzing felts, Mr. Premal R. JOSHI, company TRANS WORLD MARKETING in MUMBAI ◆ for compacting felts, Mr. Viren DALAL, company TEXTHERM in MUMBAI ◆ for compacting felts, Mr. S.B. Ramesh CHANDAR, company LORDS CONSULTANCIES in TIRUPUR www.dollfus-muller.com

The company will exhibit during the coming INDIA ITME 2016 show: July - August 2016

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The textile industry has always been very strong in India and many of second hand machineries were found on the market; nowadays, more and more Indian customers are investing in brand new lines. They want to benefit from the latest technology, energy saving process, high productivity, also be able to offer high-quality end products to domestic and export markets.

NEWS

Indian leader in digital textile printing Colorjet targets South East Asia at ITMA Asia ● ● ●

ColorJet participating at ITMA Asia to expand footprint into South East Asia METRO compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive, disperse and pigment METRO can print on cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and blended fabrics

After having installed a massive number of digital printing machines in India, India's biggest digital printer manufacturer, ColorJet Group now looks to expanding its footprint in the South Asian markets by participating at ITMA Asia to be held in Shanghai in hall 5.1, booth H5E04.

Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive, disperse and pigment, the METRO weaves magic on a variety of fabrics. It can print on any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1mm to 30mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics. Automatic temperature control enables print heads to deliver the same print results, while specially integrated VPC technology, ensures smooth flow of inks for uninterrupted production runs. Visitors will be able to witness how the Metro has been synchronised and engineered specifically to produce the best results with reactive inks. "Since its launch at ITMA 2015 in November 2015, the METRO has made inroads in to our home market in India, as well as other countries like Australia, parts of Africa, UAE, Sri Lanka, etc," Mr Pawan Gupta, CEO at ColorJet Group said. "With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and ensures the least payback period and is capable of meeting the ever changing requirements," he added.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Colorjet Group which also operates a manufacturing facility in China offers digital textile printing machines with efficient engineering and innovative technologies. By participating at ITMA Asia, the Group expects to repeat its success in the Indian market in other countries like Vietnam, Philippines, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Indonesia, while also making deeper inroads into China. After launching the METRO textile digital printer at ITMA 2015 in Milan, where the printer received rare reviews, ColorJet Group is now showcasing its high speed direct to fabric printer, the METRO at ITMA Asia. The Metro achieves production speed of up to 362 sq. metres per hour, and is upgradable up to 16 print heads for achieving the top speed. The high speed is achieved through specially designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance, to match the high jetting frequency. 132

"Our machines have minimalistic downtime since we ensure that multi-point quality checks are done at every stage of manufacturing. Creating customer delight is our top priority and we do not leave any stone unturned in achieving the same," Mr Gupta concluded by saying. For more information please contact: visit www.colorjetgroup.com PR Contacts: Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications, Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net Smarth Bansal Brand Manager ColorJet Group, Noida Cell: +91 98102-39602 Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com July - August 2016

NEWS

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment has new Head of Development Jochen Adler takes over from Dr. Klaus Schäfer January 1, 2017 brings change to the management of the devel-opment division within the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment. Dr.-Ing. Dr. h.c. (University of Technology Chernihiv) Klaus Schäfer is finally retiring from the company as planned. His suc-cessor is Jochen Adler, who has headed up the Development Project Management at the manmade fiber systems market leader for the past 10 years.

natural successor to Dr. Schäfer. Dr. Schäfer has decisively shaped the company over his more than 30 years with Oerlikon. His devel-opment work has been decisive in establishing us as a technology leader within the market; something that we continue to benefit from", commented CEO Georg Stausberg, thanking the departing Chief Technology Officer for his commitment to the enterprise. For over 30 years, Dr. Klaus Schäfer headed up the development division at Oerlikon Barmag and later also Oerlikon Neumag. It was under his leadership that such ground-breaking technologies as the EvoQuench radial quenching system, the WINGS winder for POY and FDY filaments and the Sytec One BCF system for polyester recycling applications were developed. The honorary IPA Kiev professor will remain a member of the board for the Barmag Brückner Engineering (BBE) joint venture in Remscheid.

Jochen Adler (lefts) takes over from Dr.-Ing. Dr. h.c. (University of Technology Chernihiv) Klaus Schäfer after more than 30 years as the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment Head of Development.

The 45-year-old machine construction graduate engineer (FH) has worked in various areas of Research & Development at Oerlikon Barmag, where he was most recently responsible for the Development Pro-ject Management for the Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag brands. "As a result of his work as Head of Development Project Management, Jochen Adler is the

For further information please contact: Susanne Beyer Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67-1526 Fax +49 2191 67-70 1526 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com André Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67-2331 Fax +49 2191 67-70 2331 andré.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Saurer announces the appointment of Clement Woon as CEO and Jesse Guan as COO of the Group. This adjustment is intended to prepare the Group for its next phase of development. Dr. Martin Folini will continue to be engaged with Saurer in a consulting role. Clement Woon is a Singapore citizen and was co-CEO and co-President of the Jinsheng Group. He has the proven ability in the strategic development of Multi-businesses firms to access growth and profitability. In the past, he was active as CEO of Oerlikon Textile, President and CEO SATS Ltd, a public listed Singapore Company and President of Leica Geosystems Division, a Swiss company. July - August 2016

Jesse Guan, a Chinese Citizen, has been working for Jinsheng since 2011 and was Co-President & Executive President of the Jinsheng Group. He brings a variety of experiences to the Senior Manage-ment and had i.e. full P&L responsibility in industrial MNCs (such as Ingersoll Rand & TI Automotive) for product & manufacturing focused businesses in Asia. SAURER - WE LIVE TEXTILE. Media contacts: Pia Terasa Head of Marketing & Business Development T + 41 71 987 43 66 pia.terasa@saurer.com 133

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Saurer Group appoints new leadership team

NEWS

LIVA collaborates with FDCI for Amazon India Fashion Week AW 2016 as an Associate Sponsor Liva, from the Aditya Birla Group, offers exclusive service through kiosks for designers

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Brand Liva has collaborated with Fashion Design Council of India, apex body of Indian fashion industry, as an associate sponsor for the Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW) Autumn Winter 2016. The brand will offer an exclusive fabric innovation service to the designers through kiosks across cities. The 28th edition of AIFW is being held from October 12th to 16th at the NSIC Grounds, New Delhi. LIVA received great response from fashion designers during their last edition at the fashion week. Speaking on the collaboration, Mr. Manohar Samuel, President - Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cellulose said, "We are excited to collaborate with FDCI as an Associate Sponsor. At Amazon India Fashion Week, our objective is to interact and engage with the fashion designers and highlight LIVA's fashion adaptability. LIVA fabric is innovative and natural, made of wood pulp, which delight consumers with its comfort & fluidity". 134

Market research conducted by the Brand revealed the biggest challenge faced by the fashion designers in expanding their market globally is the supply chain availability of quality, innovative, natural and consumer friendly fabric in small and medium quantities. Addressing this challenge Birla Cellulose has come out with an exclusive solution. Mr. Samuel, added "Designers in India are exceptionally creative with great consumer insight. In past few seasons, Liva fabrics have been sculpted into exquisite fashion apparels appreciated by consumers across the globe. We intend to provide support through a robust supply chain entirely created for off-the-shelf requirements of LIVA fabrics through 'Liva Fluid Center Kiosks". Mr. Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI said, "We are happy to be associated with the Aditya Birla Group and the support they offer to the designers and the fashion community is appreciable. Fabrics are an important part of fashion garments and innovative & natural fabrics work best to get creativity in the silhouettes" At AIFW, launch of LIVA Protégé's second edition was also announced. LIVA Protégé is a pan India fashion designer hunt and aims to reach hundreds of students through top fashion colleges across many cities in India. National Institute of Designing (NID), Ahmedabad continues to offer LIVA - 'Natural Fibre Chair'. About LIVA LIVA is a natural fluid fashion fabric, from Birla Cellulose - a part of Aditya Birla Group. LIVA is created from natural cellulosic fibres and transforms the way you wear garments, giving them the most liquid and soft drape. LIVA is the preferred ingredient fabric brand for leading women's brands including BIBA, Lifestyle, Shopper Stop, Van Heusen, Pantaloons, Allen Solly FBB, Fusion Beats, Maxx, Park Avenue, Wills Lifestyle and many more in over 140 cities and around 2000 stores. Currently more than 7 million garments carry LIVA tags. About 900 stores adorned the LIVA visual merchandise and training sessions conducted across India. For any further media queries please contact: Vanishka Lalwani 9820048555/ vanishka.lalwani@gmail.com July - August 2016

NEWS

Loepfe Presents Quality Control Solutions at ITMA Asia

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. presented a comprehensive portfolio of quality control solutions for the textile industry at ITMA Asia, which was held in Shanghai October 21st until 25th. For the very first time in Asia, the company will inform about the developments in the new LabMaster series. The series consists of the two measurement devices FIBERMAP, YARNMAP and LabMaster TOP. Both of them integrate the most important measurements into a single device. FIBERMAP measures all fiber-related parameters and delivers the complete fiber profile throughout the whole preparation process of the spinning mill, from bale to finisher sliver. FIBERMAP provides data of standard classing measurements and also measures process-relevant parameters like neps, seed coat neps, trash and stickiness. Easy sample preparation and large sample sizes result in a high efficiency: a throughput of up to 250 samples during an eight-hour shift is possible. The YARNMAP increases the efficiency in the textile laboratory even further. It enables a synchronized measurement of the most relevant yarn properties, like count, evenness, hairiness, and strength. In addition, all preparation products can be checked for mass evenness at the same time. The new management cockpit LabMaster TOP completes the series. It integrates all LabMaster devices into one central data management system. By delivering value-added reports directly on the management's desk, it is an efficient tool for quality management in the spinning mill.

Also during ITMA Asia Loepfe presented the new yarn clearer generation YarnMaster ZENIT+, which utilizes state-of-the-art technology, fastest processors, and measuring technology. This extremely reliable product safely detects even the finest yarn irregularities. Just one sensing head covers the range of yarn counts from Nec 2.4 to Nec 320. The YarnMaster ZENIT+ allows even more precise yarn clearing than ever before and delivers a multi-layered evaluation of the measuring results. The new yarn clearers and additional features like nep cluster channel, off-standard bobbin detection, and improved foreign matter detection, enable a 100 % online quality control in the spinning mill. Many of expensive and lengthy laboratory measurements are incorporated in the yarn clearer. The easy to service and easy to operate central unit LZE-V provides a clearly structured user interface. When needed, Loepfe technicians have the possibility to remote control the system, to check the status of the central unit and to update the software. The result is an increased reliability. The new online data management system MillMaster TOP is able to monitor and analyse the quality data from Loepfe yarn clearers. The modern software can collect, visualise and analyse quality data from up to 7,200 spindles in real-time. The data management system has a comprehensive functionality. The mill shop floor view gives an overview of all winding machines. Traffic light colours indicate the performance of the different machines or yarn production lots. Setting-up MillMaster TOP is very easy, because all connected machines are recognised automatically. With its modern client server architecture the system is the ideal solution for winding machines. The data is not only available on the server, but can also be displayed on a handheld device, e.g. a tablet computer. MillMaster TOP can be customized with various options, which are installed automatically via LoepfeÂ´s cloud service. For open-end spinning applications Loepfe offers YarnMaster 3N1. The yarn clearer combines three sensors: an optical sensor for diameter measurement, a F-sensor for detection of foreign matter, and a Psensor for detection of synthetic foreign matter like polypropylene. In addition YarnMaster 1N1 is available, which has one sensor for diameter measurement.

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Fiber and Yarn Quality - Loepfe Presents Quality Control Solutions at ITMA Asia Visit Loepfe at ITMA Asia 2016 in Shanghai | H1 B28

NEWS Both yarn clearers can communicate with the machine control of the open-end spinning machine. The graphical user interface provides comfortable access to all functions and reports. The user activates the yarn clearing by setting classes within the clearer matrix using the touch screen. The length and deviation limits of the classes can be set individually within certain limits. Repetitive quality stops or longer faults can be blocked for particular rotors. The YarnMaster 3N1/ 1N1 covers the range of yarn counts from Nec 3 to Nec 60 with maximum spinning speeds up to 400 m/ min. The desired quality can be achieved with the

maximum possible machine efficiency. For weaving mill applications the new WeftMaster Falcon-i optical yarn defects sensor contributes to the quality of the end product. The sensor is able to detect and eliminate smallest knots, fluff or even filamentation from the weft yarn. A wide range from 20 to 3,000 dtex and yarn speeds of up to 30 m/s is possible. The WeftMaster Falcon-i can work with monofilament or multifilament yarns and is insensitive for yarn color. It is also suitable for high performance yarns such as glass fiber, aramid, carbon etc.

SETEX to make Industry 4.0 potential accessible in textile production or efficiency information. The aim is to allow interoperability with highly specialized systems throughout the production chain.

Get in shape for smart factory with OrgaTEX X1

SETEX-OrgaTEX_Recipe-tool

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Many companies have introduced since years an ERPsoftware for data management. On the production floor level, machines and controls became powerful and have been connected to a supervisor software. Nonetheless the optimization of the production processes require a lot of time and cost with traditional systems. The new SETEX OrgaTEX X1 system provides entire new possibilities to realize an efficient digital workflow. After 3 years of development and more than 25.000 lines of source code - comparable to the words in two books of Harry Potter - three modules form the new integral role that manage, predict and analyze processes and production recipes. ◆ The root-data management deals with all kind of information-types and attributes used in modern textile enterprises, including maintenance, energy 136

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The process and recipe module received a concept of using smart collections of recipe and process segments. This isn't about replacing existing dyeing and finishing processes (although it can). It's about leveraging some of the awesome power of the expert´s knowledge converted in self-adapting standard processes.

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Wizards to exploit the application's strengths of prescriptive analytics of appropriate parameters with a usability for good old-fashioned human knowledge. With all the experience converted as formulas, we let the system adapt the production process and product quantities by an intelligent mechanism.

Built for intuitive use and to simplify complex production steps, the new SETEX MES system OrgaTEX X1 is helping from day one to reveal potential through the digitalization of the working processes. Get your personal demonstration at ITMA ASIA in Hall H6, booth E07. For further information please contact: Juergen Jerzembeck Phone: +49-6476-9147-505 E-mail: juergen.jerzembeck@setex-germany

July - August 2016

NEWS

Swiss technology at India ITME 2016 SSM at ITME in Mumbai, India, 3-8 December 2016, Hall 1 / Booth D17. Eight new product launches in the Winding & Doubling segments and one in the Air-Texturing are showed for the first time in India.

winding application. Another eye catcher will be the SSM XENO - a modular platform covering all dye package winding, rewinding and doubling applications with three leading SSM winding technologies - as well as the well-known Sewing Thread Finish Winding machine TK2-20 CT for Cones. Machines for the following applications will be presented: ◆ Dye Package Winding/Rewinding ◆ Assembly Winding (doubling) ◆ Air Texturing ◆ Sewing Thread Finish Winding

SSM_TWX-W_300dpi

SSM announces their participation of the forthcoming India ITME in Mumbai, from 3rd - 8th December. The 10th India International Textile Machinery Exhibition 2016 event is expecting participation from 95 countries with around 1500 exhibitors from across the globe in 17 chapters spanning the textile segment from raw material to finished products. The Swiss based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will attend the show with the presentation of breakthrough technologies.

Besides the displayed applications, SSM offers renowned machines for False Twist Texturing, Air Covering, Draw Winding, Yarn Singeing and Conventional Covering. Together with the introduction of the XENOplatform and the X-Series, SSM is demonstrating their market leadership. SSM looks forward to inspiring and interesting discussions concerning open projects using their latest developments For more information about SSM solutions please contact: SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch

TK2-20CT_300dpi

Special focus lies on the SSM X-Series: the machines (TWX-W/D, PWX-W and PSX-W/D) are the most economized winding solution, reduced to the max yet maintaining highest flexibility for any cost efficient July - August 2016

Perfect pathway creating a global business identity!!! 137

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

www.textilea'ssociationindia.org

NEWS

HIGHER PROFITABILITY WITH RIETER SYSTEMS Rieter exhibits a wide range of innovations at ITME 2016 in Mumbai (India). As the world leader in compact technology, Rieter shows the K 42 compact spinning machine and the G 32 ring spinning machine with EliTe®. The learning system Rieter "UPtime" Solutions, which supports the preventive maintenance of plants, represents a further step towards the digitization of spinning mills. In addition, Rieter is exhibiting the new single head drawer frames generation RSB-D 50 and the R 36 semiautomatic rotor spinning machine. Rieter presents a wide range of technology components under the Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen trademarks, including the energy-saving spindle LENA by Novibra, which has already established itself very successfully in the market. An innovation in the after sales area is the Q-Package, a package for improving yarn quality in existing plants. ITME is carried out every four years. It is the most important textile machinery trade show for the key market of India but also of great significance for neighboring emerging markets in Asia, the Middle East and Africa. ITME takes place from December 3 to December 8 2016.

increase in delivery speed of up to 33 % can be realized. The new coiler CLEANcoil-PES extends the cleaning cycle on critical polyester fibres by at least 100 %. In addition, the machine is characterized by significantly lower energy consumption. Compact spinning has established itself as the leading spinning system worldwide. The Rieter compact spinning systems Com4®compact and EliTe® are unique and are the most successful systems in the segment worldwide. A total of more than 13 million compact spindles by Rieter are already being deployed by customers. At maximum productivity, the K 42 compact spinning machine sets standards for quality and economy. The very high strength and low hairiness of Com4®compact yarns have significant economic advantages throughout downstream processing. The K 42 requires only about 25 % of the compacting energy necessary with comparable solutions. With the G 32 ring spinning machine and the EliTe®-compacting system, Rieter is introducing another, particularly versatile, machine combination for this segment to the market. It covers the entire yarn count area as well as different raw materials, and is retrofittable.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WIDE RANGE OF INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

G 32 Ring Spinning Machine with EliTe® RSB-D 50 Draw Frame

An unprecedented level of productivity with the highest quality standards is what is offered by the new RSB-D 50 single-head draw frame generation. With the patented ECOrized drive technology along with an innovative autoleveller and fiber guiding system, an 138

The R 36 semi-automic rotor spinning machine with the latest spinning technology and easy operation is the solution to achieving economical production. Thanks to automated spinning (ASI), after a power outage it can run again by a simple press of the start button. With the new S 36 spin box, spinning stability is increased further; in addition, it enables better yarn July - August 2016

NEWS quality through optimized fiber flow. With 600 spinning units, the R 36 is the longest machine in its class.? Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen are presenting technology components and systems, which are distinguished by superior performance in the market, and which achieve decisive competitive advantages for customers.

LENA with CROCOdoffSuction tube ECOrized

With up to 50 % increased running times, rings and running systems by Bräcker are way ahead of competitors' products. The new BERKOL® multigrinder MGL grinding machine will debut in India. It enables the perfect grinding of all deployed pressure cylinders and top cylinder covers, regardless of dimensions, on one and the same machine. Important products at ITME are also the EasyTop flat bar with magnetic adhesion technology by Graf. Together with the wire clothing, this innovation also continues to offer the proven reduction in waste and

neps, and also reduces the downtime of the card. The energy-saving spindle LENA by Novibra reduces energy consumption by up to 4 % per spinning position. The EliTe® compacting system by Suessen is the most flexible compacting system worldwide and can be incorporated into all traditional ring spinning machines. In after-sales business, Rieter will demonstrate at ITME new services and complete solutions for the entire production process. These technology components and packages improve yarn quality (Q-Package), maximize productivity (wobble disc), extend the life of equipment (card cover shoe) and reduce energy consumption (ECOrized section pipe.) In addition, Rieter "UPtime" solutions introduces a digital learning system for the monitoring and maintenance of spinning to the market. This innovative system can be integrated easily into existing plants and provides decisive advances in preventive maintenance. After the introduction of the "Alert & Cockpit" module, this is a further step in the direction of digitizing spinning mills. With extensive mill audits, Rieter offers a service to optimize the productivity of spinning mills across the entire life cycle. In the current year, Rieter employees have already undertaken over a hundred audits in Indian businesses and developed concrete solutions with big benefits for customers. The attractive service range extends from technology support through repairs to customer training.? Detailed information on the innovations at ITME 2016 is available online at www.rieter.com.

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Measures flat topsheightvariations on cardingmachine. Accurately measures height of top Offers data on overall flat tops height variation and on grinding cutneeded Helps enhance life of tops, maintain consistency of card sliver & reduce wastage

Tops Height Measuring (THM) device July - August 2016

mounted on a card machine One of the oldest Indian manufacturer and exporter of card clothing and card room accessories, ICC Ltd. is showcasing its award winning 'Tops Height Measuring' (THM) device, an innovative 'On Card' technology, to solve uncertainty and a pain area faced by spinners in the carding department at the upcoming ITME India in hall H1, stall D - 26. The THM, which has been developed by ICC's own research& development team, is a well thought and engineered device, which can measure the flat tops variations on the machine and can also be digitalized.This new device takes the data and pre139

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ICC to display award winning 'On Card' flat tops height measuring device at ITME India

NEWS sents in such a way that a user can identify essential data in his/her laptop or PC in Microsoft Excel file format.

Mahale, Vice President (Sales and Marketing) at ICC said.

The data which can be identified includes, overall flat tops height variation, measured in individual flatsonline; how much grinding cut will be required to get a certain level of variation standard; how many points will be ground to achieve the required level.

"Everyone uses a common work method to level the flat tops, which often shortens the life of the tops and result in inconsistency in quality output, as the industry still does not have proper equipment to measure the height variation of the flat tops on the card itself when it is working and in hot condition," he added.

The THM device also pinpoints the exact flats which needs to be ground for achieving the required level and lastly also offers data on which flat tops the oncard grinding machine need to be set.The data can be stored for future reference, thus enabling mills to maintain service records.

"Variation cannot also be checked time to time and hence there is no opportunity to correct the level of the flat tops, which also results in reduced cylinder wire life and poor quality. ICC, understood the need and developed the THM to address this problem," Mr. Mahale informed.

THM can also be used to know the distortion in tops due to change in production rate, raw material and settings. In addition to this, the THM can avoid excessive cylinder wear out on account of inappropriate carding action, due to few rogue flats and enhance lifetime of flat tops.

For more information please cardindia.com/content/site.htm

The THM has also won the Research & Development 2015-16 award from the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (TMMA). "So far, in case of flat tops maintenance, there is no scientific method available with the mill technicians, to check the tops height evenness on card,and the contributing factors in case of variations,"Mr. Prasad

visithttp://

Media contacts: ICC Ltd. Mr. A.K. Pal GM (Product Development) Tel: +91 20 3985-8243 Email: apal@cardindia.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ITME 2016 in Mumbai Novibra Spindles and Clamping Crowns Improve Performance in Spinning Mills Novibra, the leading company in spindle technology and the biggest exporter of spindles worldwide, will present several innovative solutions for spinning mills at ITME in Mumbai.

tions energy consumption is an important issue. Novibra is now introducing the new LENA (Low Energy consumption and Noise Absorption) high-speed spindles. LENA design has been developed from well-proven Noise Absorbing System Assembly (NASA), which ensures minimum neck bearing load, vibration and noise level at high speed. The unique wharve diameter of 17,5 mm and the footstep bearing diameter of 3 mm lead to a lower energy consumption. LENA is designed for tube lengths up to 200-210 mm.

Spindles in modern ring spinning machines reach speeds of up to 25,000 rpm. In these high-speed applica-

Another new product presented at ITME is the clamping and cutting crown CROCOdoff, which is also available as the version CROCOdoff Forte for coarse yarns.The crown is operated by the spindle speed and

LENA with CROCOdoff 140

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NEWS has been designed for machines with autodoffer. The improved design of the "teeth" guarantees a reliable clamping and cutting of the yarn. In addition, the CROCOdoff reduces the risk of yarn breakage during start-up, decreases energy consumption, minimizes material loss and reduces maintenance. CROCOdoff is suitable for the use with new machines as well as an upgrade for existing machines. Suessen Optimal Yarn Quality, High Productivity, and Cost Reduction At ITME Mumbai, Suessen will exhibit various new components for ring and rotor spinning machines. All innovations are aiming for optimal yarn quality and high productivity, while costs are reduced at the same time.

Suessen will also present various new Premium Parts for rotor spinning machines. The new TwistTrap Navel is a modified navel with a patented twist-retaining element. The navel, which is applicable to all types of SpinBoxes, provides an additional false twist, which results in better spinning stability. The production increases by 10 % to 15 % due to the possible twist reduction. Another new Premium Part is the PS7 TwinDisc. There is substantially less flexing work between rotor shaft and disc, as the width of the disc is reduced from 10 mm to 7 mm. Due to the lower energy consumption - up to 11 W per spinning unit are possible depending on the rotor speed - the pay-back period of this innovative component is very short. Bräcker BERKOL® multigrinderdesigned for the entire range of top rollers and long cots Bräcker the specialist for key components in ring spinning machines will present a variety of new products at ITME 2016 in Mumbai. The company will demonstrate the ability, to generate additional customer value, by utilising its expertise in ring spinning.

In ring spinning one of the highlights will be the EliTe®CompactSet,a compact spinning system, which can be installed on nearly all types of ring spinning machines. The system includes various innovations resulting in better yarn quality and increased productivity. An example is the EliTube Concept: as the fibre path within the drafting system is off-centred and the slot inclination is varied from left to right depending on the machine side, the use of top roller cots and aprons can be doubled. The main goal of this and the other innovations is increasing lifetime of the components and reducing maintenance costs. The EliTe®CompactSet can be equipped with the optional EliTwist® enabling the production of compact two-ply yarn on ring spinning machines. EliTwist® is highly suitable to spin two-ply core yarns. July - August 2016

BERKOL_multigrinder

The highlight at ITME will be the BERKOL® multigrinder. The entire range of top rollers and long cots used in a spinning mill can be processed on only ONE single machine. Any execution of center guided top roller is ground fully automatically on the BERKOL® multigrinder. With this system you achieve a grinding capacity of up to 150 top rollers per hour, 141

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EliTe®CompactSet for ring spinning machines result in high yarn quality, increased lifetimes and cost reduction

NEWS while you can leave the BERKOL® multigrinder unattended for as long as 30 minutes. In addition to the automatic grinding of top rollers, with the BERKOL® multigrinder you also benefit from the semi-automatic grinding of long cots with up to 490mm axis length. Thanks to these two applications on one and the same grinding machine you can reduce the number of grinding systems required in your mill. On the occasion of strengthening the assortment of BERKOL® cots, Bräcker launches with BERKOL 63 a new cot dedicated to spinning compact yarns. It enables constantly outstanding yarn values throughout entire lifetime. Excellent fibre guideance is given due to softness of compound without showing lapping tendencies. Besides the introduction of the new cot, other types were optimized to offer highest market standards in terms of price / performance ratio. Samples are ready for shipment to your mill in order to verify their quality and to benefit from the upgrade of the BERKOL® assortment. The new STARLETplus traveller from Bräcker with its improved coating shows a better resistance against corrosion. This is of high importance in challenging spinning conditions like high humidity or aggressive fibres. As a result, the service life can be extended by up to 50%. These travellers, which are suited for the entire yarn count range, are especially recommended for spinning viscose, CO/CV blends, PES, and dyed fibres. During the entire service life the yarn quality values remain constant.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Other products, which Bräcker will present at ITME, will include TITAN and RedOrbit spinning rings, as well as STARLET, PYRIT and ZIRKON travellers. Graf Competence as a complete system provider The company Graf, located in Rapperswil near Zurich, is the leading manufacturer of clothings for flat cards, roller cards and combs for combing machines. As a complete system provider, Graf offers a comprehensive package from the product and technical advice through to service and service equipment. Graf will introduce several innovative solutions at ITME in Mumbai.

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EasyTop

Flexible clothings are one of the key components in a carding machine. To ensure an evenly high quality of the carding sliver, they have to be replaced regularly. When the personnel are doing the replacement, the carding machine has to be stopped. To keep these downtimes as short as possible, Graf now offers a new flat system, which can reduce the stoppage time by 70%. The so-called EasyTop is used for flat clothings with magnetic adhesion technology. The flats, equipped with a metal carrier, are attached securely and precisely by a high energy magnet. The flats, equipped with a metal carrier, are attached securely and precisely by a high energy magnet. They resist even high carding forces and guarantee for a high reliability in operation. The replacing of the flat tops is very simple: They can be removed and reattached manually. There is no requirement for additional special tools. After placing the EasyTop on the flat bar, the high energy magnets automatically assure the correct positioning. The flat bars are mounted on the carding machine, which can continue the production immediately after setting. The reduced stoppage increases the cost-effectiveness. The flat tops do not have to be equalized in a flat workshop, which reduces the costs even further. The EasyTop system can be used for flat bars with magnetic attachment from all manufacturers. The flat tops are currently available for working widths of 40"and 51" (60" in progress) and in the well-known setting patterns for all major applications. X-Comb

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NEWS Graf presents its new product for the combing process. The exchangeable combing segments are suitable for all combs requiring this technology. The quick and safe installation with the innovative, self-locking fastening system guarantees an absolutely firm seat without wearing out and the constant tightening force on all points of attachment respectively prevents the deformation by prevailing centrifugal forces. Individual segments can be exchanged resulting in improved economy efficiency. The metallic wires used for the production of the segments undergo the proven and tested surface treatment - developed by Graf, lead-

ing to optimal running-in properties and long service life. For more information, Contact: SilvanoRufo, Head Marketing Business Group Components T +41 52 208 82 22 F +41 52 208 83 82 Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 silvano.rufo@rieter.com CH-8406 Winterthur www.premium-textile-components.com

Textechno at the ITME India 2016 Textechno at the ITME India 2016 in Mumbai At the ITME India 2016 in Mumbai, TEXTECHNO Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG (Germany) will introduce latest testing instruments for filament yarns, spun yarns and fibres.

STATIMAT ME+ represents the new generation of the Textechno automatic tensile testers for yarns

as a stand-alone unit or in combination with Textechno's well-proved filament yarn testers DYNAFIL ME and COMCOUNT guarantees highest testing efficiency and flexibility, as - apart from tensile strength and elongation - all relevant yarn parameters can be determined with one test system only. For determining the number of interlaces Textechno has developed the Interlace and Interlace Stability Tester ITEMAT+ TSI as the successor of the wellknown ITEMAT by Enkatecnica. While the basic principle was kept the same, drives and electronics have been replaced by state-of-the-art technology and the mechanical interlace sensor has been completely redesigned to serve a larger linear-density range at better reproducibility.

Spinnability tester MDTA 4

Textechno's new capacitive evenness tester for filament yarn COVAFIL+ with its new capacitive sensor design and a high-speed yarn twister achieves all requirements on an effective and reliable quality control system. The concept to operate the COVAFIL+ either July - August 2016

The FAVIMAT+ is the first and only tester to combine six single-fibre test methods in one instrument. The instrument can be used to test a wide variety of fibres, including Aramide, UHMWPE, glass and carbon. The test process can be fully automated by means of the AIROBOT2 system linked to the FAVIMAT+. The AIROBOT2 system features a tensionless storage for up to 500 fibres together with a fully automatic transfer mechanism, which feeds the fibres to the FAVIMAT+ testing instrument without using 143

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Textechno's 'Cotton Control Line' is widened by several new instruments. The focus will be on the enhanced fibre bundle length and strength tester FIBROTEST, the Micronair Station FMT, as well as the automatic fibre-length-, impurity- and spinnability tester MDTA 4, now available from Textechno.

NEWS pretensioning-weights. TEXTECHNO's solution for those customers, who need a fast tester for single fibre linear density and tensile properties, is the FAVIGRAPH. Textechno establishes a new department for composite testing services. Besides testing basic fibre properties with FAVIMAT+, customers can also examine the fibre/matrix adhesion with the new FIMATEST system and the drapability of fabrics and NCFs for composites with DRAPETEST.

We are pleased to welcome you in Hall 1, booth B26 Contact: M/s. World Traders Mfg. Co. 1413, Maker Chambers V 13th floor Nariman Point Mumbai - 400 021 India Tel: 0091 22 22843423/ 22872935 Fax: 0091 22 22872534 E-Mail: info@ wtmcindia.com Website: www.wtmcindia.com

Through our services you gain easy access to award winning testing technology. Please ask us.

SSM - Show review - ITMA Asia 2016 SSM showed nine new product launches for the first time in Asia at the ITMA Asia in Shanghai, China from 21st - 25th October 2016. Large interest was generated by the SSM X-Series which had their world premiere. SSM was very pleased by the high response. This year's show attracted over 100'000 visitors from 102 countries and was therefore the largest showcase in the series since its launch in 2008. The Swiss based SSM AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, exhibited six machines showing nine new product launches for Dye Package / Rewinding, Assembly Winding, Air Texturing and Sewing Thread Finish Winding.

efficient winding application. From SSM GIUDICI came the DP5-T which was exhibited in a special single-execution showingfancyflex™ for the production of slubs and thick & thin effect yarns. The SSM DURO-TD precision assembly winder for coarse technical yarns up to 50000 dtex offers a new level of flexibility and package quality in one machine; thereby ensuring optimal unwinding and running performance in all twisting processes. Undoubtedly the XENO-platform with the enhanced DIGICONE® 2 winding algorithm, enabling a 10-20% increase on dye package density with same dyeing recipe, attracted the largest attention. Finally the SSM TK2-20 CT / KTE a finish winder for sewing threads concluded the range of machines shown in Shanghai. Besides the showed applications, SSM can provide solutions for False Twist Texturing, Air Covering, Draw Winding, Yarn Singeing and Conventional Covering. Detailed information about textile machines with leading technology is available on SSMs webpage.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Thanks to all visitors: SSM would like to take this opportunity to thank everybody that visited their booth, whether it was for discussions concerning imminent projects, checking out the latest equipment or just for the good friendship.

For the first time ever, SSM presented their X-Series. The machines (TWX-W/D, PWX-W and PSX-W/D) are the most economized winding solution, reduced to the max yet maintaining highest flexibility for any cost 144

For more information about SSM solutions please contact: SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch July - August 2016

NEWS

Saurer presents a full range of innovations at ITME India 2016 with a focus on make in India

Saurer is present with its machinery brands; Schlafhorst, Zinser, Allma, Volkmann, Saurer Embroidery and Components brands; Accotex, Daytex, Fibrevision, Temco, Texparts in Hall 1, booth H1B12C11. Schlafhorst and Zinser

Ring spinning machines from Zinser: a new level of efficiency in the commodity segment At a length of 2,016 spindles, the Zinser 72 ring spinning machine breaks the 2,000 barrier and sets new standards for efficiency in the commodity segment. The machine is super-long, super-economical and exJuly - August 2016

tremely user-friendly. It lowers production costs by up to 11 % and has a footprint that is up to 21 % smaller compared with shorter rival machines. The new bothend TwinSuction system, combined with the sensorcontrolled OptiSuction yarn break suction system, achieves an energy saving of up to 66 % during suction. Ring spinning machines from Zinser: a new level of efficiency in the commodity segment At a length of 2,016 spindles, the Zinser 72 ring spinning machine breaks the 2,000 barrier and sets new standards for efficiency in the commodity segment. The machine is super-long, super-economical and extremely user-friendly. It lowers production costs by up to 11 % and has a footprint that is up to 21 % smaller compared with shorter rival machines. The new bothend TwinSuction system, combined with the sensorcontrolled OptiSuction yarn break suction system, achieves an energy saving of up to 66 % during suction. The ZinserImpact 72 compact spinning machine is equipped with the self-cleaning Impact FX unit and guarantees top productivity, maximum process reliability and optimal raw material utilisation. The new ZinserSpeed 5A roving frame consumes 20 % less energy. With a 220mm gauge the roving frame is also up to 17 % shorter than its legendary predecessor. The new automatic doffer features a doffing time of less than two minutes, guaranteeing maximum efficiency in terms of productivity. The RoWeLift bobbin transfer station uses a 1:1 transfer to deploy the roving bobbins in roving bobbin transport systems featuring flexible configuration for targeted and non-contact feed to the ring spinning machines. Zinser is the only supplier offering excellent opportunities for the highest possible degree of automation in the ring spinning mill, adapted to individual customer requirements. With the ZinserSpeed 5A roving frame, the Zinser 72 ring spinning machine and the Autoflow automation solution, Zinser paves the way for its customers to attain maximum process reliability. At INDIA ITME 2016 in Mumbai, Zinser will be using its exhibition booth to present the ZinserImpact 72 compact spinning machine in combination with the Autoconer 6. 145

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Saurer Group's EÂł (triple added value) - philosophy of innovation and sustainability was developed with a clear customer focus. Highest productivity, maximum raw material utilisation and excellent yarn characteristics are key success factors for today's textile producers. The Saurer Group is the only full range supplier in the world offering complete automation from roving with an interspersed transport system to ring spinning and up to linked winding, leading in twisting applications, setting standards in yarn processing components, having the fastest shuttle embroidery machine and revolutionizing the rotor spinning technology. But being the partner of choice along the entire textile value chain, requires innovative products but also proximity to customers. The newly inaugurated Saurer manufacturing facility in Karjan, is producing highest quality ring spinning machinery and components. The ZinserImpact 72 made in India will be shown for the first time at ITME along with Saurer's full range of innovative products.

NEWS Autoconer 6: the benchmark for winding efficiency and intelligent automation The Autoconer 6, now with EÂł label, sets new benchmarks regarding energy, economics and ergonomics, due to intelligent sensor technology and smart process control. This has been proven since his market launch in numerous installations. Innovations such as LaunchControl, SmartCycle and SmartJet boost productivity by up to 6 % compared with the previous model. The new Eco-Drum-Drive system, SmartCycle and the intelligent vacuum control system "Power on demand" reduce the energy consumption on the Autoconer 6 by up to 20 %. Unique in the winding machinery market are its features, such as auto calibration of the splicer feeder arm, Energy Monitoring and intelligent doffer functions like SmartJet and TubeCheck. This makes winding more ergonomic and independent of personnel. The machine maintains its considerable lead in value creation with the Autoconer package, remaining the benchmark for quality and added value in downstream processing, both for commodity applications and for the very sophisticated demands of high-end applications. Schlafhorst offers customized technology solutions, incl. the new, flexible SmartSplicerfamily. Suitable for every automation requirement, various features are available for perfectly automated and individually designed process flows for every spinning plant, from the manually operated machine type RM to the direct link to the ring spinning machine with type V.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Rotor spinning machines from Schlafhorst: the production platforms of the future

The new Autocoro 9 with its individual spinning position technology sets new records for energy consumption, productivity, economic efficiency, ease of operation and quality in the fully automated ma-chine 146

segment. It is a strong driver of optimised textile value creation in the textile process chain: 25 % lower energy consumption, 19 % reduction in spinning costs, proven rotor speeds of 180,000 rpm, take-up speeds of 300 m/min and a 60 % lower servicing outlay are just some of its outstanding performance features.The new semi-automatic BD 7 is also in a league of its own, It produces extremely economical packages in Autocoro quality up to 320 mm in diameter. Up to 10 % less energy consumption, extremely fast take-up speeds of 230 m/min on all lengths of machine and improved use of avail-able space reduce spinning costs and increase the profitability of spinning mills in the semiautomatic segment. Plant Operation Centre - Real time production monitoring Spinning mills using SaurerSchlafhorst and Zinser Plant Operation Centres (POC) monitor their production and quality data to improve efficiency. Thanks to the real time data from all machines linked with POC, the customer receives an all-time information transparency to ensure perfectly timed interventions for an increased productivity and yarn quality. Customer Support: SUN - SERVICE UNLIMITED With the innovative SUN - SERVICE UNLIMITED service concept, Schlafhorst and Zinser offer their customers support in their day-to-day operations that is unmatched by any other manufacturer. Over 500 service staff in 20 service stations and 3 technology centres advise customers all over the world with regard to productivity and quality increases as well as energy conservation. With their unique know-how they help customers to master textile-technological challenges and to gain a lead over their competitors. The e-commerce platform SECOS 2.0 guarantees minimum response times in the delivery of original spare parts. And in SUN-PLAN Schlafhorst has developed a new service concept that is unique within the industry: Individual service at a fixed price. Allma Volkmann Allma and Volkmann show their innovations at India ITME 2016 As the world's leading manufacturers of twisting and cabling machines, Allma and Volkmann will be presenting innovative products and solutions in the following segments: staple fibre yarns, carpet yarns, tire cord, industrial yarns and glass filament yarns.

July - August 2016

NEWS up to 50 % fewer yarn breaks, improved quality and high machine efficiency. The added value for machine operators consists of lower noise emissions in the production facility and reduced operating times thanks to user-friendly ma-chine handling. An innovative enhancement of the machine to the production of 2ply tire cord is the option for producing also 3-ply tire cord in a single-stage process.

CableCorder CC4 - twist & save with EÂł technology With its future-oriented technology, the CableCorder CC4 cabling machine, which has been awarded the Saurer EÂł label, offers energy savings of up to 50 % in the tire cord cabling process. Since energy represents by far the most significant cost factor in the overall cabling process, this promises revolutionary production cost savings for manufacturers of tire cord. The reduction in energy consumption also results in a lowering of the heat load in production facilities, which in turn leads to a lowering of air conditioning costs. The higher economic efficiency is also increased by July - August 2016

Epoca 7 - the innovative embroidery system with highest level of productivity and performance In addition to energy savings of up to 5 %, our customers can benefit from a 20 % increase in productivity. The Epoca 7 achieves an embroidery speed of up to 700 rpm, and is therefore up to 18 % faster than the previous generation. Apart from an increase in production speed, additional functions have been optimised and improved to achieve an overall performance increase of up to 20 %. Embroidery quality and technology for all market requirements: Innovative solutions lead to unparalleled adjustment options and top quality production at the touch of a button. This is guaranteed by new technologies on the needle side, such as individual thread guide activation, the newly developed thread delivery and the flat yarn path with gentle yarn treatment. The new electronic thread monitors detect yarn breaks more quickly and more precisely. The new precise thread cut ensures trouble-free production of high-quality embroidery. The long service life of the Epoca 7 is based on modular and reliable components that are designed for high speed and minimal wear. This guarantees reliability to satisfy the highest expectations. EmStudio - the embroidery software The EmStudio CAD/CAM system integrates all the work steps on a single platform. Starting with drawing, punching and visualisation, other functions also include production optimisation, analysis of the oper147

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FusionTwister - always one step ahead With the FusionTwister, Volkmann is presenting its two-for-one twisting machine for staple fibre yarns with the best price performance ratio. The FusionTwister is worldwide known for its high reliability as well as best twist quality and productivity due to spindle geometry for special applications, increased spindle synchronization, optimum package build-up und high-class yarn guiding elements. Reduction in energy consumption of up to 40 % is ensured by the energy-optimized spindle and yarn balloon geometry. Further customer benefits include high flexibility, low space requirement, low set-up times, less noise emission and reduced maintenance and erection time. Volkmann offers with the two-for-one twisting systems for manufacturing of staple fibre twists an optimum in variability and flexibility with considerably reduced energy consumption. And there is more: the name Volkmann stands for dedicated employees, top quality and an infrastructure for all requirements from research and development to customer service. An attractive comprehensive package is available with a range of service oriented toward customer needs - from project planning to a service guarantee with original part availability for all machine generations.

Saurer Embroidery Saurer Embroidery is the world market leader in embroidery production systems. Here a wealth of experience extending back over many generations is coupled with up-to-date knowledge for the textile future. Fashion is moving at an ever increasing pace, to match the customer's requirements and exceed their expectations is the key philosophy of Saurer Embroidery. At ITME in India Saurer Embroidery will show the latest innovations for a flexible and efficient embroidery production.

NEWS ating data and archiving of the designs. With the new iSed - the intelligent Saurer editor - production and quality can be easily and efficiently optimised. Saurer Components Saurer Components is presents its excellence in filament as well as staple fibre processing at this year's ITME in Mumbai. We are looking forward to presenting you new possibilities, innovations and our range of E. products. Combined excellence for Staple Fibre Spinning SaurerAccotex and SaurerTexparts are key component suppliers for staple fibre spinning. The latest coup is the Combined Excellence of AccotexAccosmart Sandwich Cots with the Drafting Systems from the Texparts PK 2600 Series. The combined excellence results in improved yarn quality, the competitive advantage for our customers. What enables the combined excellence? The contactsurface between cot and yarn predominantly determines the yarn quality. The Accosmart concept reacts on the weighting arm load with an enhanced contact area. The PK SE Series featuring EasyDraft, independently working single elements with no load variation, allows the individual setting of 5 different load stages. By combining the PK SE Series with Accosmart, customers can achieve the ideal clamping line pressure in order to improve yarn quality. Quality control at its best - SaurerFibrevision is proud to announce that the Microscan 2 the innovative cable free instrument for on-line measurement of spin finish oil & entanglement will be presented at the ITME for the first time in India.

Monitoring Excellence for T&I - FibrevisionFraycam 2 the next generation of the well-established Fraycam combines the extremely accurate Fraytec FV2 broken filament sensor with a high speed camera to enable advanced broken filament characterisation. The Fraycam is available as stand-alone system or integrated with the Fraytec FV2 system, the improved version of the Fraytec the Industry Standard for Broken Filament Monitoring. Bearing Excellence - Beside the High Speed Separator Roller VR50300 for yarn speeds up to 5,500 m/ min introduces SaurerTemco its latest Twist Stopper generation a full metal solution for stable running behavior and longest bearing life. Excellence in Shrinkage - DaytexÂŽ Shrinkage Belts outstanding resistance under heavy loads and in regard to heat and chemicals the exceptional long life in all applications are the key factors to en-sure customers the best quality for all different shrinkage applications. Leading the industry for more than 50 years has been achieved by outstanding product quality combined as a base for constant shrinkage results. E. - Saurer Components answer to added value or in other words premium components with outstanding features in the field of energy savings, economic advantages or ergonomic solutions. Come and learn more about E. products. SAURER - WE LIVE TEXTILE Media contacts - Pia Terasa Head of Corporate Marketing and Business Development T + 41 71 987 43 66 / pia.terasa@saurer.com

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10th INDIA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY EXHIBITION INDIA-ITME 2016 Dec. 03-08, 2016 Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - India 148

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NEWS

Reiners + Fürst to present TURBO Rings and optimized travellersat ITME Mumbai 2016 Reiners + Fürst to present TURBO Rings and optimized travellers for Compact and Siro-Compact at ITME Mumbai 2016

than 2.5 Mio units of the newest TURBO rings are running successfully in the markets. The enhanced surface allows increasing machine efficiencies by up to 10% - especially when producing yarns of sensitive fibres or with highest spindle speeds. Managing Director at R+F, Mr Benjamin Reiners said, "The new TURBO rings with benefits including low yarn hairiness, longer service life and increased machine efficiency by up to 10% will be extremely beneficial for the demanding Indian spinners." "We have been in the Indian market since more than 30 years and R+F products are well accepted by the textile industry. We feel assured that the newest TURBO rings, too, are being accepted in the same way by Indian spinners," Mr Reiners added.

Ring Travellers in the production process

At ITME 2016 in Mumbai Reiners + Fürst will also present new travellers for Siro-Compact and ViscoseCompact with optimized geometry and new surface characteristics. The end-users benefit from low yarn hairiness and longer traveller service life. For worsted spinning R+F introduces J-travellers for ring heights of 9.1 and 11.1 mm with enhanced surface for better performance of the spinning process. Different shapes are available for top results in the whole range of worsted spinning. Customers especially value the professional service and support R+F is providing particularly for finding solutions of increasingly complex applications. Visitors are invited to stop by at R+F's booth at ITME in Mumbai: Hall H1, Stand M 1.

Ring spinning mills in India prefer the latest generation of TURBO rings especially for Compact and Siro yarns. Leading German ring and traveller manufacturer R+F introduced this further milestone in high speed spinning during ITMA in Milan. Already more July - August 2016

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Benjamin Reiners, Owner and Managing Director of R+F

Contact: Reiners + Fürst GmbH u. Co. KG Mr. Benjamin Reiners Leibnizstr. 85 41061 Mönchengladbach Germany Tel.: + 49 (0) 2161 934-0 Fax: + 49 (0) 2161 834555 travellers@rundf.de www.reinersfuerst.com

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N. SCHLUMBERGER to show world-leading wool spinning technologies at ITME India ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

High performance drafter GC40 chain gill offers speeds of up to 600 metre per minute Worsted and semi-worsted cards offer very high productivity ERA 40 combing machine produces wool tops featuring new quality standards GN8 intersecting drawing machine for processing delicate, fine and short fibres

optimised mechanical design and is very user-friendly when considering man/machine dialogue. It is also possible to do telediagnostic's of the machine, which is available as an option.The new range of worsted and semi-worsted cards are adaptable for wool between 17 and 33 µ. They incorporate a progressive process technology, while respecting the wool fibres. They come with a hopper with continuous flow and constant feeding density and also an integrated suction and also with a possibility of input auto leveller. The cards come with high power for removing burr and have a low 'Inactive angle', for a high material yield. The high productivity is based particularly on swift high speed; optimal use of the carding surfaces and working widths up to 3.5 metres.In the ERA 40 combing machine, progressive combing is achieved by a circular comb pinned over 360° and turning at a constant speed by producing tops, featuring new quality standards. It has precise and recordable adjustments, ensuring consistent high levels of cleanliness, while offering reduced operational and maintenance costs.

GC40 Chain Gill World leader in manufacturing of textile machinery dedicated to processing of long fibres, N. SCHLUMBERGER will be showing its leading and latest technologies at the forthcoming ITME India show to be held in Mumbai in Hall 1A, Booth H1R4.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Machineries on show from the France based company include the GC40 chain gills, GN8 intersecting drawing machine, ERA 40 combing machine and the new range of worsted and semi-worsted cards. The GC40 chain gill is a high performance drafter with speeds of up to 600 metre per minute, while offering high productivity and quality. The GC40 offers optimal textile control at high speeds and has a high cleaning system and comes with a drafting head with a light moving assembly. There are 2x60 numbers of fallers and pinning is done through round of flat pins. It has a nip distance of between 32 to 65 mm, with delivery speed of up to 600 metres per minute. The machine has drafts between 3-12 and total installed power of 12.8 - 15.6 kW and auto leveller range of +20 to -30%.

The ERA 40 works on a specific combing principle, while being very gentle on the fibres and offers fairly high production efficiencies of more than 50 kg per hour for 21/22 µ wool. Adjustments of the nip distance and other parameters are possible from the machine screen or remote, without stopping the machine. The GN8 intersecting drawing machine has been designed and developed on a new intersecting based on the latest design of the chain gill drive, combined with the universal drafting head of GNseries. It is designed to process wool or any kind of wool like fibres and is particularly adapted to process delicate, fine and short fibres such as cashmere, silk or fibres with low cohesion. For more information please visit http://www.nsc-schlumberger.com/ Contacts: N. SCHLUMBERGER Mr Eric Fessler Area Sales Manager Tel: +33 389 7440 77 Email: Eric.FESSLER@nsc.fr Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

The machine needs low maintenance costs, thanks to an 150

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Italian SANTEX RIMAR GROUP partakes in ITME India with all its brands SMIT markets rapier weaving machines SANTEX offers finishing solutions for knitted fabrics SPEROTTO RIMAR is a manufacturer of finishing machines for both woven and knitted fabrics CAVITEC supplies machines for coating, laminating and impregnating composites ISOTEX provides coating, embossing and printing machines for synthetic leather, tarpaulins and airbags SANTEX NONWOVENS markets thermobonding solutions SOLWA offers solutions in different fields of water treatment SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, which has more than 100 years of history and also more than 10,000 customers all around the world, is participating in the upcoming ITME INDIA trade show in Hall 5, Stall B13 together with its brands SMIT, SANTEX, SPEROTTO RIMAR, CAVITEC, ISOTEX, SANTEX NONWOVENS and SOLWA. SMIT, which joined SantexRimar Group in 2016, offers weaving machines with rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments, terry cloths and customized solutions to produce special technical fabrics. SMIT SMART PLATFORM is a structural architecture concept involving the whole machine project, from mechanics and electronics to communication systems and in the process, provides the most advantageous weaving opportunities and high levels of versatility.

knitted fabrics, Santex offers; SANTASHRINK PROGRESS, an integrated treatment system for shrinkage; SANTASHRINK JUMBO and SUPER JUMBO for tensionless drying, shrinking and relaxing; ESC: ENERGY SAVING CHAMBER for optimised drying through green textile process; SANTACOMPACT RD for levelling, steaming and compacting calander and SANTASYNPACT also for levelling, steaming and compacting. For the treatment of tubular knitted fabrics, the SANTEX portfolio includes; SANTASHRINK for tensionless drying, shrinking and relaxing; SANTASPREAD for steaming and compacting of tubular fabrics and SANTASTRETCH for dewatering and overstretching/wet onimpregnation. SPEROTTO RIMAR is known for being a leading innovator and manufacturer of textile finishing machines for both woven and knitted fabrics made from natural as well as synthetic fibres. SPEROTTO RIMAR markets DECOFAST 3.5 for continuous decatizing process under pressure; FIXA for wool crabbing in continuous by overheated water under pressure; MULTIDECAT, a continuous decatizing machine; NOVA, a continuous solvent scouring machine; PLANA for efficient atmospheric plasma for natural fibres and UNIVERSA for vaporizing fabrics without tension.

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP_SMIT loom testing_Trissino_vicenza

SANTEX offers machines for finishing of knitted fabrics. Among machines for treatment of open width July - August 2016

CAVITEC technologies include; HOTMELT for coating and laminating; CAVIMELT, which is a rotogravure system; CAVI2COAT for multifunctional coating and laminating; CAVIFLEX, a hotmelt laminating machine with exchangeable coating modules; CAVIMELT PP is a plug and play solution, CAVIPREG offers prepreg lines and CAVISCAT offers scattered coating and laminating solutions. ISOTEX offers solutions in coating, embossing and printing machines for synthetic leather, airbags and other technical applications. Its products line-up in151

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CAVITEC is a premier supplier of machines and plants for coating, laminating and impregnating for composite products for aerospace, automotive, wind-power industries and for the resin impregnation of carbon, Kevlar or glass fibre.

NEWS cludes ISOBAG for air-bags, ISOBELT for conveyor belts; ISOLAB for pilot lines; ISORUBBER for rubber-coating fabrics; ISOSKIN for coating synthetic leather; ISOWEAR for resin-coated production; ISOGLASS for fibreglass fabrics in technical use; ISOTACK, a solution system for self-adhesive materials and finally ISOTARP for tarpaulins and banners. SANTEX NONWOVENS markets thermobonding solutions for applications like home textiles, hygienic and medical, geotextiles, automotive and industrial products. The unique air guiding system of Santex ovens guarantees highest production performance, uniform quality productions and constant temperature at minimal energy consumption. SOLWA represents the green innovative technologies division, marketing solutions in different fields of water

treatment. Technologies from SOLWA have won awards from several global organisations, like the United Nations and the European Union. Technologies from the division include; DRYWA, which is an integrated system for drying sewage sludge and SOLWA, a system to treat polluted or sea water with solar energy. Media contacts: Ms Giulia Bussinello Corporate Relationships Manager SANTEX RIMAR GROUP Località Colombara 50 36070 Trissino (Vicenza) - Italy Tel: +39 0445 1761444 Email: giulia.bussinello@santexrimar.com press@santexrimar.com Read more at http://www.santexrimar.com

InspirOn to show advanced Textile StenterMotex15000 with new features at ITME India ◆ ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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Motex 15000 has 15% higher drying efficiency and higher operating speed Has better safety features, consumes less energy and minimises waste Offers better operational efficiency and lower operating cost

The Motex 15000, while also being manufactured in a sustainable manner, has been developed with unprecedented features and state-of-the-art aesthetics. As against the Motex 4560, the 15000 offers 15% higher drying efficiency and higher operating speed. The Stenter enables the processor to achieve even drying and heat setting at higher evaporation rates with optimum energy utilisation, which translates into lower operating cost per metre of fabric.

Motex 15000

The Motex 15000 also achieves consistent and reproducible results across the length and width of the fabric, even with larger overfeed adjustment range up to 80%. It ensures higher stretch, irrespective of the higher GSM of the fabric and is equipped with pin protection flapper for knitted fabrics.

Indian manufacturer of hot air stenters, InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd. is showcasing a next generation Stenter, the Motex 15000 at ITME India in hall 5, stall H5C1. When compared with the earlier model Motex 4560, the new model consumes less energy, has better safety features, minimises waste, while offering better operational efficiency and maximum return on investment.

The stenter requires lubrication once a year or even later, while offering easy access and retrieval of operating and maintenance manual through GUI. Its higher squeezing capability ensures optimum pick up percentage for specific processes like wet on wet finish with desired add on, resulting in better productivity. It comes equipped with a Tilting Trough with optimised capacity to reduce drain losses.

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NEWS Inspiron has also recently unveiled a R&D Centre near Ahmedabad, which will undertake sustainable development projects to produce products of the best quality, innovative and user friendly technology, to meet and preferably surpass customer expectations.

The vision also includes acting as an effective link between emerging needs of customers and identifying newer scopes for R&D, while also providing services related to process optimisation assignment, technical consultation, performance evaluation, etc.

Attached to the R&D Centre is also an Incubation Centre, which is equipped with a Demo Stenter for mills to undertake trails and test out their unique ideas, while also validating them under actual working conditions, before venturing into commercial production.

For more information please visit http:// www.inspiron.co.in/stenter/ Media Contacts: Inspiron Engineering Pvt Ltd, Mr. Sanjay Kowarkar VP Marketing sanjaykowarkar@inspiron.co.in +91 97277-49917 / Mr.PratyushBadrinarayan pratyushbadrinarayan@inspiron.co.in +91 99789-65005 Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications, Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

The Incubation Centre is equipped with a laboratory, library and conference cum training room and is manned by a team of process technologists and design professionals.The vision behind setting up the R&D Centre as well as the Incubation Centre; include offering value added services to the customer; and demonstration of new features and / or standardisation of process parameters for various substrate on customer request.

TumKalip to show high quality spares for advanced weaving machines at ITME India ◆ ◆ ◆

Offers spares of highest quality for new generation of Projectile & Rapier looms Rapier Head coating technology enables reusing heads translating into high savings Setting up of Indian subsidiary will help offer faster services

TumKalip produces and markets spares for Projectile looms, Rigid Rapier looms and Flexible Rapier looms. It will be exhibiting a wide range of spares,especially for new generation models of Projectile looms; Rapier Heads for Positive Rapier machines; and a new product line of Flexible Rapier loom spare parts.

TumKalip, which was working through agents till now in India, has recently setup its Indian subsidiary, TumKalip India Pvt Ltd, to offer better and faster services to its Indian customers.

TumKalip Aparat, a Turkish manufacturer of spare parts for new generation of European make weaving machines since the last 30 years, will be showing its range of quality spare parts at ITME India in hall 6 , stall no. D-11. TumKalip will also be promoting its high-tech coating technology for used Rapier Heads, like TiO2 and TC also called tungsten carbide coatings. July - August 2016

For producing high quality spare parts, TumKalip uses the best in market raw materials, and utilises the latest technologies in its production process. Since, the company itself produces and markets its products; it has full control over the quality of its products vis-à-vis its competitors, while also offering competitive prices. Apart from Turkey, TumKalip weaving machine spares are sold in several regions and countries like Europe, India, USA, Canada, Brazil, Argentina, Guatemala, Pakistan, Egypt, Japan, Iran, Nepal and Sri Lanka to 153

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TumKalip also recoats old Rapier Heads through its hi-tech coating technology, thereby assuring an extended life for the old Rapier heads, translating into high cost savings for Rapier machine users. The recoated Rapier Heads can be used again, instead of buying and replacing old ones with new heads.

NEWS name a few.

For more information please visit www.tumkalip.com.tr

"We have been producing best quality spare parts for European make weaving machines since the last 30 years. This deep experience and use of high quality raw materials help us to deliver spares of impeccable quality to our customers across the world," Mr. AakeshBhongade, Director at TumKalip India Pvt Ltd said. "The setting up of the wholly owned subsidiary will help us offer the best services possible to our Indian customers. On the strength of the quality of its products, TumKalip believes in striking long-term partnerships and not just one time sales with its clients," Mr.Bhongade added.

Media Contacts: Mr. Aakesh Bhongade, Director, TumKalip India Pvt Ltd, Email: aakesh.bhongade@gmail.com Tel: +91 99304-82776 Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

Rabatex lines-up impressive weaving preparatory technologies at ITME India ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

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High speed Sample Warping Machine suitable for yarn range between 5 to 500 Tex Sectional Warping Machine has user friendly advance software & data management Single End Sizing Machine produces sized yarn of the highest quality Rabatex creels for various applications like glass fibre, geo grid, flat warp & monofilament Battery operatedas well as manual material handling & storage equipment

Ahmedabad based Rabatex Industries has lined-up the latest and innovative weaving preparatory technologies including battery operated as well as manual material handling and storage equipment, including accessories like creels for technical textiles applications at the upcoming India ITME exhibition in Hall6, Stall No. H6D8. Among its various technologies, Rabatex will showcase the High Speed Sample Warper, Sectional Warper Machine, Single End Sizing Machine;Battery operated Warp Beam Carrier with Healdframe support and Cloth Roll DofferCarrier and alsodisplay creels for technical textiles at ITME India. The Rabatex high speed Sample Warping Machine model RI 6001 is primarily for production of samples and short production warp at very high production rate. The RI 6001 has a robustly constructed warping drum, suitable up to widths 154

of 2400 mm and for warping lengths between 21 and 450 metres (depending on thread density) and suitable for yarn range from 5 to 500 Tex. The RI 6001 comes with a heavy duty rotational creel with a maximum creel capacity of 16 colours and is suitable of attaining maximum speeds of up to 1,200 metres per minutes. The Rabatex Sectional Warping Machine RI 112 is a stateof-the-art technology which produces high quality warp beams with higher productivity. The RI 112 comes with user friendly advance software and data management, which offers all online data of warping operations. It also offers graphical display of all events and breakages and also loss end memory control. The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing Machine RI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations and produces sized yarn of the highest quality to ensure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations. The RI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of 10's to 120's Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30 to 210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electric heater drying system. The RabatexBattery operated Warp Beam Carrier with Heald frame support VM 5003 is Beam Gaiting Trolley with a robust structure for lifting of beam with harness, dropper and heald frame. The VM 5003 comes with a battery operated hydraulic power pack unit, transportation module with battery life for continuous working of 8 hours.Lastly, the Rabatex Cloth Roll Doffer Carrier Cradle VM 508 is designed to be compact and suitable for lifting and transporting a cloth roll in narrow gangways. The cloth roll cradle can be lowered up to the ground floor. The cloth roll on the weaving machine can also be directly lifted and transported by the VM 508. Rabatex also offers technologies for the fast growing technical textiles sector like Polybeamer with unrolling creel July - August 2016

and creels for various applications like glass fibre, geo grid, flat warp, monofilament, etc."All our technologies, including those on display at ITME India are very robust and so require very less maintenance. We have developed these technologies through our in-house R&D team and gothrough rigorous tests before launching in the market," MrHaresh Panchal, Managing Director of Rabatex Industries said. "The various accessories that are used in our machines are sourced from renowned multinational suppliers like Siemens, Mitsubishi, Danfoss, Allen Bradleyetc, which also ensures that the machines or equipment we market, are long lasting and trouble free,"Mr Panchal added.

For more information please visithttp://www.rabatex.com/ Media Contacts: Rabatex Industries, Mr. Haresh Patel, Sr. Sales Executive Tel: +91 79 2290 1367 / 68 / 69 / 70 Email: patel.haresh@rabatex.com Arun Rao, Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

PRECITEX participating in INDIA ITME 2016

PRECITEX is always in the forefront when it comes to development of new products keeping in pace with the requirement from the user industry. As usual, during this exhibition also they are launching some new products which are already well received in the industry during the pre-launch trials. Some of the new products are: 1) Aprons for compact spinning system: Nearly 20% of the working spindles in India are producing compact yarns. India is one of thelargest compact yarn producers in the world. This segment is growing at rapid pace. Realizingthis trend, PRECITEX has introduced "ET" series aprons exclusively for compact spinningsegment. These aprons will offer: a) Longer life span due to minimum wear out b) Consistent performance 2) Aprons for synthetic segment: The synthetic yarn segment in India is a major producer of dyed PV counts where the role ofapron is quite critical due to the abrasive nature of the fibre. With re-generated and re-cycled polyestergaining more popularity, the role of apron has assumed greater significance. PRECITEX is offering "TA" series of aprons for Tough Application. They are designed to offerthe following benefits: July - August 2016

a) Longer life, thanks to the sturdy construction and superior tensile properties b) Less apron breakage which should cut down the consumption of skived aprons c) Damage to the apron surface due to bottom roller lap ups will be reduced 3) Soft Plus cots: PRECITEX has been offering Soft Plus cots from year 2006 onwards. Soft Plus cots are havingunique two layer construction which offers good yarn quality and also consistentperformance with the longer life span.Soft Plus cots are available in Alucore construction and are offered in shore hardness 63 to75 A. 4) New texturizing apron: SHS 2247/XP is primarily developed for meeting the requirement of heavy denier filamentyarn and also for Air Texturizing machines.These applications demand sturdy apron due toheavy load and SHS 2247/XP will meet the requirement easily. 5) Mesh Apron for compact spinning system PRECITEX has included entire range of Mesh Aprons for various types of suction basedcompact spinning system. Mesh Apron for all models are available. They are manufactured using superior anti-static material and hence, they offer uniform suction without any fibrechoking. This will facilitate excellent compacting of the fibre. PRECITEX invites all their patrons to visit their stand No.H1A2 in Hall No.1, where the traditional hearty and warm welcome awaits all. For more details, contact: Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. 201/A, Poonam Chambers, Shivsagar Estate, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai - 400 018 Tel.: 4004 9750, 249733 67, Fax: 6660 5382 155

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PRECITEX is participating in INDIA ITME 2016 exhibition to be held during 3-8 December, 2016.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens (ICTN) Date : 10th to 12th November, 2016 Venue : Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi Hauz Khas, New Delhi - 110 016 Contact : Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi New Delhi - 110 016 Prof. R. Alagirusamy M.: +91-9818133350, alagiru@gmail.com Dr. Apurba Das M.: +91-9871648134, apurbadas65@gmail.com Fax : +91-11-2658 1103, M. : +91 9909904179 E-mail : ictn2016.iitd@gmail.com Website : www.textileconferenceiitd.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Yarn, Fabric & Accessories - Trade Show 2016 Date : 23th to 26th November, 2016 Venue : NSIC Exhibition Centre, Okhla, New Delhi, India Contact : Abhishek Sharma M.: +91-9810872914 E-mail : asharma@yfatradeshow.com AnkurGoel M. : +91-9212707924 Website : www.yfatradeshoe.com The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organises International Conference on "Make in India" Date : 01st & 2nd December, 2016 Venue : Hotel The Lalit, Mumbai, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 059 India Contact : Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India) Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 86, College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguase Church, Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : 91-22-2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax : 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in Website : www.textileassociationindia.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. 156

ITME 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 03rd to 08th December, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Executive Director India ITME Society 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 India Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138 Fax : +91-022-2285 1578 E-mail : itme@itme-india.com Website : www.itme@itme-india.com Largest International TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW in South Asia Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition Fibre/Yarns/Fabrics/ Denim/Home Textiles Date : 16, 17 & 18th February, 2017 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Sector 17, Opp. Sachivalay, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, India Contact : Arvind Semlani, M.: +91-9833977743 Bhavesh Thakar, M. : +91-9375322449 E-mail : info@ITMACH.com, allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.com Website: www.itsexhibition.com ABROAD FILTECH 2016 Exhibition & Conference Date : 11th to 13th October, 2016 Venue : Cologne, Germany Contact : Jens Chittka E-mail : jens@filatech.de Tel. : +49 0 2132 9357 60 Website : http://www.filatech.de National Seminar on GITS Certification 2016 Theme on Business Case for Sustainability with Organic Textiles Date : 23rd November, 2016 Venue : Radisson Blu Dhaka water Garden, Dhaka, Bangladesh Delegate Fee: 4,000 BDT + VAT Contact : Sumit Gupta Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Seminar Coordinator Representative in Bangladesh and India E-mail : gupta@global-standard.org M. : +91 9892270594 July - August 2016