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PEER REVIEWED
Traditional Pattu Weaving of Western Rajasthan : a Study on Production Process Shruti Singh & Radha Kashyap* Department of Fashion and Textiles, IIS (Deemed to be University), Jaipur Abstract Handloom weaving is an indispensable part in the varied regions of Rajasthan where primitive communities have always retained their indigenous craft. Different types of looms are used which serves different purpose. Textiles differ in their weaves, colours, patterns and techniques. One such craft is pattu weaving of western Rajasthan which is known for its supplementary weft technique. The craft is found in the surrounding villages of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Barmer districts because of the availability of abundant wool which is procured from sheep and camel. Pattu weaving is a hereditary craft which is practised by the menfolk of Meghwal community. The present paper describes the different types of pattu and its manufacturing method in detail. Keywords Handloom, pattu weaving, shawls, western Rajasthan, wool
1.1 Pattu weaving Bright and alluring pattu is a dominant craft of western Rajasthan. It is a hereditary craft which is practised in the surrounding villages of Barmer, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur districts. Pattuis derived from the word patti which means a narrow strip. Pattu are the example of supplementary weft technique in which embroidery like ef* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Radha Kashyap Head and Professor, Department of Fashion and Textiles, IIS (Deemed to be University), Jaipur E Mail : radha.kashyap@iisuniv.ac.in July - August 2019
fects are achieved. An extra weft is passed between minimum two to twelve picks. Pattu was earlier categorized under the woollen textile items which are crafted by the menfolk of Meghwal community. Shawls and blanket are traditionally known as pattu which was made from sheep and camel wool in neutral cream, black and brown colour. An NGO, Urmul Marushthali Vikas Samiti (UMBVS) is situated at Pokhran, which is working for the promotion of pattu craft. A branch of this NGO is also in Jodhpur. The pattu weavers in surrounding villages are linked to this NGO which provides them raw materials. However at Barmer, weavers are working under the middle men, while some are working independently. 2. Materials and methods To study the production technique of pattu weaving, a preliminary study was undertaken at Jaisalmer before collecting the data. Survey method was used to collect the data. Interview schedule was used as a tool along with observation method. List of all pattu weaving units was provided by NGO at Pokhran. Weaving units of Barmer, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur were visited and observed by the researcher. 3. Results and discussion Results collected from the survey method are summarized below:
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1. Introduction Rajasthan "the land of Rajput" is renowned for its ceramic paintings and textiles. The primitive communities of Rajasthan always preserve their craft which has some spiritual and religious aspects. Each strata of people has its unique textiles and costumes which are known for its specific designs and production method. Also, the fascinating colours of textiles and decoration play an important part in the people's life. In Rajasthan, the village weaver has been the community's sole source of fabric. The loom has an indispensable position in the cultural lives of people. In Indian textile sector, new innovations are taking place which are fast replacing handlooms. However, in some regions of Rajasthan people are still practising their hereditary craft using conventional method. One such craft is pattu weaving of western Rajasthan.
WEAVING 3.1 Types of pattu weaving Traditionally, pattu are categorized under three types which are plain pattu, kashidapattu and baladipattu. These pattu differ in their use, designs and production technique. 3.1.1 Plain pattu Plain pattu is generally black or white in colour. Earlier they were made using desi wooland plainpattu is woven separately in two halves and then the parts were stitched in the middle to increase the width. This pattu has vertical band of red and black colour on the edge of cloth which is woven using streak patterns with fish and geometrical motifs. These bands are 4 to 7 inch in width. Border is woven using chottiya patterns in black or red colour. This pattu is worn by elder men of this community.
3.1.3 Bhojasaripattu Bhojasaripattu is distinguished with triangle motifs, where two triangles are facing towards each other at the tip in centre. The border consists of various small triangle and comb motifs with multiple consecutive patterns. Fish motifs are not used in this pattu. On the edge coloured streak designs are developed.
Figure 3.2 : Bhojasaripattu (www.craftmark.org)
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 3.1 : Plain pattu
3.1.2 Kashidapattu Kashidapattu is a multi-coloured cloth in which motifs are created in different colours. The base colour is majorly in black, white, off white and red in colour. Generally merino wool and desi wool is used in manufacturing. They are woven in varied sizes. The pattu is draped by young men and women. Kashidapattu is specifically woven on pit loom because various coloured patterns are created using different bobbins. Therefore it is easier to work on pit loom. Kashidapattu is further divided into two types i.e., Bhojasaripattu and Malanipattu.
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3.1.4 Malanipattu This is a highly decorative pattu in which the entire surface of fabric is beautifully covered with small patterns and coloured streak. These are usually woven with merino wool. The design takes about one week to complete. Around fifteen types of geometrical motifs are woven in malanipattu.
Figure 3.3 : Malanipattu
3.1.5 Baladipattu The check pattu with black stripe is called asbaladipattu. This pattu is woven using traditional method on a pit loom. Beside shawls, coats and jackets are also developed from baladipattu for men. July - August 2019
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3.5 (a) Pit loom
3.5 (b) Fly shuttle loom
Figure 3.4 : Baladipattu
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3.5 (c) Frame loom Figure 3.5 : Types of loom
3.3 Raw materials Earlier, wool was used in weaving pattu textiles. As the desert area of Rajasthan has abundant sheep and camel. Wool is procured from sheep and processing of wool was done at home by women folk. Today, cotton yarn is widely used instead of wool because it is cheaper in price and its demand remains same throughout the year. The production of pattu from wool has reduced from past decade. Production of wool pattu is limited and was mostly done in Barmer. Merino wool, desi wool (procured from local sheep) are generally used for pattu shawls and blankets along with dhera wool which is made from staple waste wool. While for weft yarns,galicha wool is used. Nowadays, pattu are also woven using wool and polyester fiber blend. Shawls and blankets made from pattu weaving uses 2/20 yarn count and for kurtis and bags, 2/60 or 2/80 yarn count fibers are used. Wool yarn was sourced from Barmer and cotton yarns from Delhi.
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3.2 Loom Traditionally, pattu weaving was done on a pit loom in which the weaver sits on the floor and operates the loom with the help of treadle. The loom in local language is called khadi or jhela. Generally, loom is constructed using neem, babul, rodiya and sheeshamwood by local carpenter. Earlier, weaver could only produce 18 inches or less pattu cloth on traditional pit loom. Thus, the cloth was woven in two pieces and then stitched together to increase the width. This whole process took double time. Further some modifications were done from National Institute of Design and the width capacity of loom was increased from 10 inches to 4 feet. Today in NGO, frame loom with fly shuttle is operated by weavers. In villages, some families are also using fly shuttle loom to make the weaving process simple. Fly shuttle is used to weave pattu cloth because it induce two or more shuttle across a wide warp by pulling a cord at the centre. However, a large number of families in villages are still using pit loom. Traditional pattu weaving involves various coloured streak and patterns in which distinct coloured shuttles are required. Therefore, weavers uses pit loom which makes easier for them to use distinct coloured shuttles on pit loom using 2/20 yarn count thread. While yarn for 2/60 and 2/80 yarn count is used on frame loom and fly shuttle loom, for creating patterns,extra weft is inserted by hands.
WEAVING 3.4 Manufacturing process Manufacturing of pattuis is mostly done using conventional production technique. 3.4.1 Scouring According to the information collected, it was found that scouring of cotton fiber was done at NGO. The scouring bath consists of caustic soda and surf in 500C water. The hanks of cotton is immersed in water bath and left for 4 hours. After that the hanks are rinsed and dried. This process removes all the impurities such as oils, fat, waxes, minerals and leafy matters. Nowadays, the weavers in Barmer who were working independently bought scoured and dyed yarn from market. 3.4.2 Sizing In villages, sizing of wool yarns is termed as paanlagana locally. The sizing of warp yarns is done to apply uniform coating on the surface of yarn with the help of sunwali. The sizing paste consists of daliya and water. Daliya is made up of pearl millet (bajara). Warps are immersed in this paste and instantly taken out and squeezed. After that warps are spread on ground and extra starch paste is removed with the help of a brush which is called sunwali. The sunwali is made up of small roots and dry grass. This also separates each yarn to apply uniform application of paste. The yarns are left to dry in sunlight for an hour.
3.4.3 Spinning The process of spinning is mostly done by the women folk of Meghwal community. Spinning was done with the help of charkha which is hand driven method of twisting the fibers. To twist the fiber, skeins are adjusted on an umbrella swift called pareeta in local language. The wheel is rotated which gives multiple twists to the spindle. Yarn cone for warp and pirn for bobbin is prepared with the help of charkha. For pirn winding 25 rotations are given to wheel while for yarn count of 2/60 and 2/80, 500 and 800 rotations are given respectively.
Figure 3.7 : Charkha
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3.4.4 Warping Warping is done manually using sectional warping method. It is done in two steps which require time. A full length of warp yarns is wound onto the warping drum. The warping starts from lease rods in which yarns are arranged criss-cross on rods. This evenly distributes yarns without any entanglement. The yarns are grouped into even and odd yarns where the odd yarns are passed over lease rods and even yarns are passed below the rod. Thus the warps are alternatively arranged in a warp sheet.
Figure 3.6 : Sunwali 92
Figure 3.8 : Warping July - August 2019
WEAVING 3.4.5 Dyeing In earlier days, dyeing was not done and wool for pattu was used in natural cream, brown and black colour. Later, direct dyes used for cotton fibers but the colour fastness were very poor which resulted in colour bleeding. Today, all types of dyes are used at NGO. Mostly, acid dyes and vat dyes are used for dyeing. Dyeing of yarns is done at NGOs. The village weavers are linked to these NGOs and they procure dyed yarns for weaving. But in Barmer, weavers sources dyed yarns from market. 3.4.6 Weaving Weaving is mostly done on a pit loom. The loom is operated by treadles which is called pavdi. The warps are streatched or holded on angela which is a wooden plank fixed on the ground. The opening of shed is done through treadles. These treadles are ties to shaft using threads. After that, either shuttles are passed with hands or shuttles are passed by pulling a cord in the centre. Desings are created using extra weft which is double the thickness than the ground yarns. This extra weft is inserted between the warps with hands and patterns are created by inserting the picks in between. The cloth is taken up by cloth beam known as tur.
4. Conclusion During field survey it was observed that weavers still follow the traditional practices for pattu weaving. All the process of weaving is done manually by weavers. But in few past decades various changes in raw materials are found. Earlier pattu were mainly categorized under the woollen textile items but now cotton fibers are introduced along with blend fibers. From the past, no changes were found in the manufacturing process such as scouring, sizing and spinning. However, in dyeing various types of dyes are used instead of acid and direct dyes which were used earlier. Pit loom is majorly used by weavers which is a very tedious process. Therefore, it was concluded that the production process of pattu weaving is conventional which retains the beauty of this handloom textile. References 1.
2.
3.
4. 5.
Sagar, P. (2015). Pattu weaving of western Rajasthan (Master's thesis). Lady Irwin college, New Delhi. Ojha, K. J. and Mishra, B. (2011). Traditional artisans in global market: Experience of weaver's collective from western Rajasthan. Rajagiri Journal of Social Development, 2(2), 195-206. Retrieved fromhttp://www.researchgate.net/. Bhandari, V. (2005). Costumes, textiles and jewellery of India: Traditions in Rajasthan. Mercury books. Chishti, K. R. Jain, R. and Singh, M. (2000). Handicraftedindian textiles. Lustre. Gillow, J. and Barnard, N. (1993). Traditional Indian textiles. P. Haupt. ❑❑❑
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Figure 3.9 : Weaving process
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DYEING
Microwave Technique for Dyeing Egyptian Cotton with Direct Dyes Shereen O. Bahlool* Cotton Chemistry and Textile Fibers Department, Cotton Research Institute, Agriculture Research Center -Giza, Egypt. Abstract In this study, conventional heating and microwave irradiation heating were carried out using direct dye to dyeing cotton fibers from some Egyptian cotton cultivars, in order to determine if microwave heating technique could be used to increase the dye-ability of the fibers in shorter processing time. Different cotton varieties and different parameters were studied; mainly microwave dyeing time, electrolyte concentration. The results obtained of the two dyeing techniques were compared. Egyptian cotton fibers were dyed with Sirius Yellow with or without microwave heating technique. The color measurement (K/S) and mechanical properties (tensile strength / Elongation %) of the dyed fabrics were investigated and compared for both techniques. Microwave heating technique is a green chemistry and the results of experiments on the effect of microwave on the fibers itself clearly showed that the microwave process has no harmful effect on cotton fibers. The time of dyeing process could also be very effective on the dye absorption. Therefore, extension of dyeing time studied, from 5 up to 20 minutes causes higher dye exhaustion. In conclusion, the microwave technique reduced time, energy and cost of the dyeing process. Keywords Microwave irradiation, dye-ability, Direct Dyes, Egyptian cotton.
1. Introduction Microwave has a wavelength range between about 1m and 1mm; corresponding to a wavelength frequency from 300 MHz up to 300 GHz. Microwave heating is a form of electric heating which generate the heat inside the materials by the action of high- frequency electric field [1-3].
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Because of this heat inside the fibers, the microwave mechanism of heat transfer differs from normal heating system. Therefore the microwave heating system has no problem of different temperatures between inside and outside of the fabric [4]. The idea of microwave (MW) application for textile finishing processes originated in the 1970s when cellulose fabrics were treated with finishing agents and cured in the microwave oven. Although the first results were promising, the idea was abandoned until 1995, when Miller patented a process involving garment *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Shereen O. Bahlool Associate Professor at Cotton Chemistry and Textile Fibers Department, Cotton Research Institute, Agriculture Research Center -Giza, Egypt, E Mail : dr_shereen_bahlool@yahoo.com 94
microwave treatment [5]. Subsequently, many studies investigated the possibility of using microwave heating technique in pretreatment, dyeing and finishing of different textile fibers, natural or synthetic. In industry, there is an application of microwave heating like a jig machine equipped with microwave's generator. It has been reported that the finishing by this machine showed an increase in efficiency of finishing with a decrease in the time of processing without any decrease in the fabric quality. By application of this thermal energy, faults such as uneven dyeing which normally existed in conventional dyeing method can be minimized [1]. Dyeing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes using microwave irradiation technique has been studied and the results are compared with conventional technique. It is observed that the microwave technique saves the dyeing time in addition to saving 75% of the salt used and 20% of the alkali, confirming the saving of time, energy and money [6]. Also it has been reported, that the use of microwave heating for pretreatment of cotton fabrics reduces the pre-treatment time, chemicals, auxiliaries and water. And the results obtained showed that a complete fabJuly - August 2019
WEAVING ric preparation was obtained in just 5 min when using microwave technique in pretreatment process [5].
Another study using microwave dielectric heating in the exhaust dyeing of polybutylene terephthalate fabrics with disperse dyes showed that microwave heating could be used to increase its dyeability in shorter processing times while obtaining good wet fastness [9]. In another textile industry application of microwave heating technique, it has been recommended to use a tunnel equipped with a microwave generator for drying and removing the organic waste from insects adhering to cotton fibers. It was reported that the usage of this method can improve the process ability of cotton fiber and further can increase the efficiency of spinning [1]. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1. Materials 2.1.1. Fibers This study was carried out at Cotton Research Institute, using commercial cultivars representing the two categories of Egyptian cotton: long-staple cotton (LS), namely Giza 86 and Giza 94 and extra-long staple cotton (ELS), namely Giza 96. 2.1.2. Chemicals All chemicals used in this study were of analytical grade. Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), Acetic acid, sodium sulfate (Na2SO4), and Triton X100 as a wetting agent, were all of commercial grade, while detergent was supplied by Merck Co, Egypt.
Figure 1 : Sirius Yellow chemical structure
2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Cotton fiber Scouring In order to improve the adhesion of the dye to cotton fibers, an alkaline pre-treatment in water solution containing sodium hydroxide 4.0% owf and wetting agent -Triton X- using liquor ratio 1:50 at boiling for 90 minutes. Then rinsing with hot and cold water then air dried at room temperature 2.2.2. Cotton fiber mercerizing The scoured fibers were then immersed in 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide for two minutes at room temperature. The samples were removed from the liquor and neutralized with aqueous solution containing 0.1% acetic acid followed by a through hot water to ensure removal of residual chemicals. Finally Samples were dried in an oven at 100°C for 60 min. 2.2.3. Dyeing Dyeing process was carried out with Olympic Microwave KOR-6QIE (800 watt-power and 2450 MHzfrequency). 2.2.3.1. Conventional process Cotton samples were added to the dye bath at room temperature and then the temperature was increased to 90°C-boil during 20 minutes, while adding salt step by step according to dye bath concentration. The dyeing was carried out at boil for 40-50 minutes and then the samples were rinsed followed by soaping ands drying shown in Figure 2.
2.1.3. Dye The cotton fibers were dyed with direct dyes: Sirius Yellow GC, ref structure in Fig. 1.
Figure 2 : The conventional dyeing process [11] July - August 2019
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In addition, the use of microwave heating system in alkaline hydrolysis treatment of polyester can increase the hydrolysis efficiency, weight loss, wicking ability and dye uptake by polyester fabrics [7]. Dyeing of nylon66 fabrics with disperse dyes was carried out using microwave irradiation technique using different parameters as dyeing time, dye concentration, power of microwave, and liquor ratios. The results revealed that, the microwave technique helped in saving the dyeing time without using a carrier or a dispersing agent [8].
WEAVING 2.2.3.2. Microwave irradiation heating technique by exhaustion method Dyeing was carried out in a glass container at different time frames: 5, 10, 15 and 20 min of microwave irradiation. 4% concentration of direct dye was prepared with 5 to 20g/L of sodium sulfate (Na2SO4) as electrolyte, L.R 1:20. 2.3. Measurements 2.3.1. Measurement of Color Strength The reflectance value of a specimen for the actual wave length scan range 400 ~ 700 nm, and read the maximum absorption wavelength using the double beam spectrophotometer (Lambda 35, Perkin-Elmer, USA). The measurement was done in according to ASTM E313-96 using CIE color system coordinates. By using this reflectance value into the Kubelka Munk's equation the K/S value was calculated.
A K/S
B K/S
K/S = (1- R)2 / 2R ----------------------- (Kubelka-Munk equation) 2.3.2. Mechanical properties The treated / untreated cotton fiber samples tensile strength, (g/tex) and elongation, % were measured by STELOMETER instrument (Model 154 M, Germany) at 1/8 inch gauge length according to (ASTM: D144505).
C K/S
3. Results and discussion 3.1. Effect of microwave heating time Using the same dyeing recipe, we explored the fibers to different microwave heating time.
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In Figure 3, it can be seen that due to the increasing of microwave fixation time, the amount of color gradually increased. Even if at the minimum time (5 min.), cotton fibers have been dyed, achieving the effect of rapid dyeing cotton fabrics and solid color. Therefore, microwave irradiation can heat up in a really short time and the overall effect of cotton fibers is optimum. That is mainly due to the thermal effect mechanism, which can be explained as the microwave technology heats the cotton fibers inside and outside in a very short time because the dyes and auxiliaries molecules polarize or change again and again. After repeated friction between molecules, the molecular temperatures increase universally, and at this point the microwave energy is converted into heat energy very rapidly. Dye molecules can quickly get the maximum kinetic energy and fiber expansion is gradually obvious, thus achieving the rapid dyeing and good color strength [10]. 96
Figure 3: Microwave time influence on K/S of cotton fibers, A) Giza 86, B) Giza 94 and C) Giza 96
Table 1 shows the influence of increasing the microwave heating time from 5min to 20 min on cotton fibers strength and elongation percent. It can be noticed that increasing the exposing time lead to a slight decrease in tensile strength but raising the elongation percent which means that it doesn't have a big influence on the fiber's mechanical properties.
July - August 2019
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Cotton variety Giza 86
Treatment / microwave time 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. Scoured 20 min. Mercerized 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. 20 min. Giza 94 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. Scoured 20 min. Mercerized 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. 20 min. Giza 96 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. Scoured 20 min. Mercerized 5 min. 10 min. 15 min. 20 min.
Tensile strength (g/tex) 31.74 31.17 30.81 30.6 31.64 31.1 30.72 30.5 29.76 30.29 30.09 29.78 29.96 29.65 29.5 29.45 30.95 30.56 30.43 30 30.75 30.6 29.88 29.79
Elongation % 4.8 4.92 5.58 5.7 5.81 5.69 6.14 6.25 4.91 4.79 4.8 5.02 5.17 5.25 5.6 5.6 4.79 4.69 5.17 5.2 5.15 5.3 5.5 5.8
3.2. Effect of Electrolyte concentration It has been known that electrolyte concentration has a great influence on dyeing of cotton fabric with conventional direct dyes, so we investigated here this influence using the microwave dyeing process. Table 2 shows the influence of sodium sulphate concentration increasing from 5 g/L to 20 g/L on cotton fibers color strength. It can be noticed that increasing the electrolyte concentration lead to an increase of the K/S value, which means that color strength is better. Table 2 : Na2SO4 concentration influence on K/S of cotton fibers (microwave time 15 min) Na2SO4
Giza 86
Giza 94
conc. 5 g/l
Scoured 0.89
Mercerised 1.5
Scoured 2.1
10 g/l
1.11
1.735
15 g/l
1.32
1.815
20 g/l
1.3
1.82
Giza 96
Mercerised 2.5
Scoured 1.166
Mercerised 1.58
2.45
2.67
1.83
2.05
2.64
2.805
2.1
2.34
2.7
2.8
2.11
2.33
3.3. Comparison of microwave and conventional dyeing techniques We set electrolyte concentration at 15g/l and comparing the effects of microwave and conventional dyeing on the color strength and cotton fiber mechanical properties. Table 3 shows that conventional pad dyeing process get almost an equal amount of color strength July - August 2019
as the microwave irradiation technique, but we observed that the microwave technique highly reduced the time of dyeing. Table 3 : Comparison of microwave and conventional dyeing on color strength (K/S) of cotton fibers Dyeing
Giza 86
Giza 94
Giza 96
technique
Scoured
Mercerised Scoured Mercerised Scoured Mercerised
Microwave
1.32
1.815
2.64
2.805
2.1
2.34
Conventional 1.22
1.72
2.75
2.88
2.05
2.38
Results shown in table 3 revealed that Giza 86 has the lowest color strength but Giza 94 and Giza 96 have much better dye-ability. Tensile strength and Elongation of dyed fibers using conventional dyeing method are given in Figure 4. It was noticed that there is a different response shown in fiber mechanical properties due to the cotton genotype.
Figure 4 : Conventional dyeing influence on mechanical properties (tensile strength and elongation) of cotton fibers
Mercerized fibers gave the lowest values of the fiber strength and higher elongation percent in all cotton varieties as the cotton fibers exposed to slack mercerization, the cellulose chains were broken due to the breaking of the hydrogen bonds in addition to increasing the amount of amorphous cellulose [12]. Beside the effect of increasing the spiral angle, so increasing the fiber elongation and decreasing the fiber strength. Giza 96 showed the highest tensile strength, which is due to its nature as an extra-long staple Egyptian cotton variety, while Giza 86 and Giza 94 have close values because they are planted in the same region in Delta - Egypt and they are at the same category of fiber length; long staple Egyptian cotton. The measurements represented in figure 5 show a comparison between the conventional dyeing and dyeing using microwave technique. 97
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Table 1 : Effect of microwave time on the mechanical properties of cotton fibers
WEAVING 2.
Figure 5: Comparison of microwave and conventional dyeing on mechanical properties (tensile strength and elongation) of cotton fibers
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Figure 5 shows that there is no big difference between conventional dyeing and the microwave technique. Also, microwave irradiation technique has no bad influence on the cotton fibers properties. It has nearly similar result to conventional dyeing process in addition to the benefits of saving time and energy. 4. Conclusions The results of this study showed that microwave irradiation with the conditions used in our experiments has no bad influence on the cotton fibers properties. Although, it was noticed that there is a different effect on fiber properties, that is due to the cotton genotype. Therefore the thermal energy produced by the microwave irradiation can be used for the dyeing process, as microwave heating technology dyeing is fast and has the advantages of high efficiency, eco-friendliness and energy saving. References 1.
98
Montazer M., Alibakhshi F., Microwave Assisted Dyeing of Cellulose with Direct Dyes, https:// www.researchgate.net/publication/238099297, (11) 1-6 (2014)
Evans D.G., Skelly J.K., Application of microwave heating in dye fixation, Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourist, 88 (12) 429-433 (1977). 3. Puschner, Heating with microwave, (Eindkoven, the Netherlands, N.V Philips, Gloeilampen fabrieken), 1-4 (1966). 4. Ying fang, C., Hai, Y., Zhivei, An Investigation on Microwave Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, Journal of China Textiles, 10 (1), 25-32 (1993). 5. Hashem M., Abou Taleb M., El-Shall F.N., Haggag K., New prospects in pretreatment of cotton fabrics using microwave heating, Carbohydrate Polymers, 103, 385- 391 (2014). 6. Haggag K., El-Molla M.M., Mahmoud Z.M., Dyeing of cotton Fabrics Using Reactive Dyes by Microwave Irradiation technique, Indian Journal of fiber and textile Research, 39(12) 406-410 (2014). 7. Weilin X., Chaoli Y., Hydrolysis and Dyeing of Polyester Fabric Using Microwave Irradiation, Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourist, 118, 211-214 (2002). 8. Haggag K., El-Molla M.M., Ahmed K.A., Dyeing of Nylon 66 Fabrics Using Disperse Dyes by Microwave Irradiation Technology, International Research Journal of Pure & Applied Chemistry, 8 (2) 103-111 (2015). 9. Oner E., Buyukakinci Y., and Sokmen N., Microwave-assisted dyeing of poly (butylenes-terephthalate) fabrics with disperse dyes, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Coloring Technology, 129 125-130 (2013). 10. Huang D., The Application Advantages of Microwave Fixation in Cotton Fabric Dyeing, International Conference on Education Technology, Management and Humanities Science (ETMHS) 535-539 (2015). 11. Kiron M.I., Dyeing Mechanism of Direct Dyes. Working Procedure of Dyeing with Direct Dyes, http://textilelearner.blogspot.com (2012). 12. Abdel-Salam M.E., The Egyptian cotton, Production, Quality and Marketing, Textile Book Elkalema Press (1999). ❑❑❑ July - August 2019
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Un-Evenly Even Dyeing on Garment-Fashion Trend Sanjay Katode, Saptarshi Maiti, Aranya Mallick, Kedar Kulkarni & Ravindra V. Adivarekar Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract In this modern era of fashion and creative trends of colouration, a novel garment dyeing process has been adopted and optimized to achieve a unique un-evenly even look onto the product. The pigments of Dystar make and catalyst Lava protect XL were used with various binders. Garments made of both pure cotton and polyester were dyed using aforementioned pigments, binders and catalyst by a modified and quick exhaust process followed by tumble drying and curing. The results were quite promising in the sense that the colour fastness properties were in the range of good to acceptable and the final garments were quite attractive in appearance. This technique of dyeing to have an un-evenly even look has potential to be the most promising pigment dyeing processes majorly due to its fashion appeal in addition to its ease of process in terms of time, cost and most importantly its fashionable appearance. Keywords Un-evenly even dyeing, pigments, catalyst, binders, colour fastness
Despite the current global economic downturn, the global apparel industry continues to grow at an healthy rate (5). Global demand for clothing has increased manifolds because of increasing population and change of consumers attitude towards fast fashion (6). Garment dyeing is majorly driven by fashion and consumer preferences. Developing new fashion look is the need of garment industry. By 2025, the Indian apparel market is expected to grow to $180 billion and China may lead the market at $615 billion, growing at a CAGR of 12% and 10% as compared to $59 and $237 billion in 2015 respectively. The global apparel market is continuously changing, attempting to adapt to customer trends and new technology that will allow the *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. Ravindra V. Adivarekar Professor of Fibre Chemistry and Head of Department, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019, Maharashtra, India Email : rv.adivarekar@ictmumbai.edu.in July - August 2019
consumer's shopping experience to be more enjoyable and ergonomic (7). Pigments being insoluble and also non-ionic in nature have no affinity for natural, man-made fibres and their blends. It can only be utilized along with a binder to fix it on the surface of a substrate (8). Due to this, surface dyeing, short process cycle, two-tone effect, complete colour gamut and exhaustion at room temperature are possible. Pigment printing is a very widely practiced process while the unpopularity of pigment dyeing in exhaust techniques is mainly because of unevenness due to lack of affinity for the substrates (9). However, pigment dyeing can be done with reasonably good levelness provided the cationization and dyeing steps are properly controlled with suitable use of auxiliaries (10). In the present work, an attempt has been made to utilise its inherent quality of unevenness in dyeing by pigments on garment to explore possibilities in creating fashionable garments. 2. Materials and chemicals The ready for dyeing (RFD) 100% cotton and 100% Polyester knitted fabrics with following specifications were used;100% Cotton, 1 x 1 single jersey; yarn count 60s x 60s; wales/inch 84; and courses/inch 114. 100% Polyester, 1 x 1 interlock; yarn count 34s x 34s; wales/ inch 34; and courses/inch 38 were provided by Shirt Company, Mumbai, India. The pigments, namely Imperon Red K-B, Imperon Yellow K-R, Imperon Blue K-B from Dystar (India) Pvt. Ltd. were used. Denimcol Binder GFC (CHT), 99
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1. Introduction In the mid of 1970s garment dyeing system was introduced for commercial cloth production (1). Over the years garment dyeing has undergone dramatic changes in the technology, application method and quality (2). Reactive, Direct, Sulphur and Pigments are the most popular classes of dyes for such purpose (3). In 1987, an Italian designer Massimo Osti applied pigment on cotton garment to obtain "ready worn", "wash down" similar to that of the stone wash effect which is popular in denim wears (4).
GARMENT DYEING Printofix Binder 4000 liq (Pidilite), Lava Fix CPB binder and catalyst as Lava Protect XL from Dystar (India) Pvt. Ltd. were used. 2.1. Methods An attempt was first made to have un-evenly even dyeing over the garment by dyeing process. Various binders with Lava protect XL as a catalyst were tried to arrive at a reasonably acceptable stage of un-evenly even dyeing. As a regard, optimised binder, catalyst and pigment solution was first prepared in a bath and then garment was dyed with a material to liquor ratio (MLR) of 1:6 in an industrial horizontal sample washing machine (Ramson, India). The various alternatives tried during process stabilization are specified below.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
2.1.1 Binder Three binders Lava Soft CPB (Dystar), Denimcol Binder GFC (CHT) and Printofix Binder 4000 liq (Pidilite) were applied separately using catalyst as mentioned above. All dyeing were carried out at room temperature for certain amount of time (3-9 min). The concentration of binder used was 15-75gpl and that of catalyst was1.5-7.5gpl. The effect of such binders on colour depth and unevenness was assessed visually along with the fastness properties of dyed garment. 2.1.2 Dyeing Pigment dyeing was carried out in horizontal washing machine (Ramson, India) at an MLR of 1:6. The machine was run for 2 min with solution and dyeing was carried out for certain amount of time (3-9 min) and then the bath was drained. The excess liquor present into treated garments was then extracted using hydro extractor machine (Ramson, India) for 5-10 sec@100 rpm. The garments were dried in a tumble dryer at 800C and then cured at varying temperatures of 1200C to 1400C at an interval of 100C for 5, 10 and 15 min. However the tumble dryer gets dirty after each batch of drying as it is dyed at room temperature and fixation occurs in tumble dryer. Pigment: 1.5% and 3% Time: 3-9 min Temperature: Room Temperature Binder - Lava fix CPB: 15gpl - 75gpl Catalyst - Lava Protect XL: 10% on Binder 2.1.3 Binder concentration variables The parameter varied during the dyeing process was the concentration of binder. The various concentrations used were 15, 30, 45, 60 & 75gpl. Both the cotton and polyester knitted fabrics were dyed at 1.5% and 3% 100
shades with all the pigments, using the following condition. 2.1.4 Dyeing variables To evaluate the process sensitivity of pigments, the dyeing time as a parameter was varied. It was kept at 3, 5, 7 and 9 min respectively as process was carried out at room temperature. The above variation was done for both 1.5% and 3% shades on the 100% cotton Knit as well as 100% polyester T-shirts. 2.1.5 Fixation variables Specimens were first dyed with 1.5% and 3% shades by considering the best conditions during the dyeing process. Dyed garments were dried in a tumble dryer at 800C followed by curing at 1200C and 1400C for 5, 10 and 15 min. 2.1.6 Un-evenly even dyeing assessment Un-evenly even dyeing of garment was assessed subjectively bying 10 judges. The judges were post graduate students and research scholars with prior training to assess the colour. The judges were asked to rate the vintage look as per the following ranking: '+++++' denotes excellent, '++++' denotes good, '+++' denotes fair, '++' denotes poor, '+' denotes very poor. Un-evenly even dyeing assessment was statistically analysed by standard deviation method. Four different sections of the dyed garments were randomly assessed spectrophotometrically and the resulting K/S values were subjected to respective standard deviations (11, 12). After that, an overall deviation (s) of the individual standard deviation (si) was calculated to finally assess the overall dyeing look. 2.1.7 Test methods The washing fastness of specimens was assessed with ISO 105 C06 A1S, light fastness using AATCC 16E, rubbing fatness using ISO 105 X12 standard test methods. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Binder selection for un-evenly even dyeing Among the various binders with and without catalyst, the treatment simply with Lava Fix CPB and Lava Protect XL gives brilliant appearance, better hand feel and more importantly better colour fastness as illustrated in Table 1. Hence, in all further studies Lava Fix CPB and Lava Protect XL were used for dyeing process.
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GARMENT DYEING Table 1. Fastness assessment of dyeing of garment (1.5 % shade using different binders in dyeing methods).
Process Chemical
1 2 3 4 5 6
Fabric
Fastness of Imperon Blue K-B
Cotton
Rubbing Fastness (Wet) 1-2
Rubbing Fastness (Dry) 2-3
Wash Fastness 3
Polyester
1
1
2
Cotton
0.5-1
1-2
3
Polyester
0.5
1
1
Cotton
0.5-1
1-2
3
Polyester
0.5
1
1
Cotton
2-3
3
4
Polyester
2
2-3
3-4
Denimcol Binder GFC (CHT) +
Cotton
1-2
2-3
3-4
Lava Protect XL
Polyester
1
1-2
2
Printofix binder 4000 liq (Pidilite)
Cotton
1-2
2-3
3-4
+ Lava Protect XL
Polyester
1
1-2
2
Lava Soft CPB Denimcol Binder GFC (CHT) Printofix binder 4000 liq (Pidilite) Lava Fix CPB+ Lava Protect XL
shade was only 1.5%,and the fabric dyed with 3% shade also exhibits increasing trends in fastness with the concentration of binder. But in case of 3% shade, 60gpl binder concentration was taken as optimum due to the same very reason as taken in 1.5% shade; it means better fastness, uneven dyeing with even look, acceptable hand feeland less chemical cost. The colour yield, however, shows mostly an increasing trend on increasing the treatment time from 2 to 5 min at room temperature where 5 min dyeing time has been kept optimum. Further increase in dyeing time, however, leads to the reduction of its un-evenly even dyeing look and tend to become more evenly dyed which is common.
3.2 Effect of Process Parameters 3.2.1 Binder variables In case ofcotton and polyester knitted t-shirt dyed with 1.5% shade using all the three pigments, there is an improvement in fastness properties with the increase in concentration of binder. 30gpl of binder concentration has been taken to be optimum as there happens to be no more significant improvement in colour fastness as well as overall appearance. Moreover, the chemical cost was also considered, keeping in view that the July - August 2019
Figure 2: Attachment between binder and cellulose trapping pigment
Figure 3: Location of fibre, film formed by binder and pigments 101
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Figure 1: Un-evenly even dyeing with Imperon Blue KB at 1.5 % shade depth
GARMENT DYEING 3.2.2 Dyeing conditions Room temperature dyeing has a major role in un-evenly even dyeing on garment with pigments. In the case of all pigments taken for both 1.5 & 3% shades, the visual colour appearance was found to be best at 300C temperature dyeing. The desired look was not observed when temperature was increased from room temperature to 600C, due to higher exhaustion.
Table 2. Appearance of un-evenly even dyeing of garment.
Judge 1 2
The enhancement in the colour strength was direct consequences of the ability and accessibility of pigment particles aided by binder in the vicinity of the cellulose substrate. The un-evenly even dyeing increases with the increase in time, but after 5 min seems got dyed without any desired appearances.
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 4 : Un-evenly even dyeing with Imperon Red KB, Imperon Yellow KR, Imperon Blue KB at 1.5 % shade depth
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10
Imperon Red K-B Fabric
Appearance*
Cotton
++++
Polyester
++++
Cotton
++++
Polyester
++++
Cotton
++++
Polyester
++++
Cotton
+++++
Polyester
+++++
Cotton
+++
Polyester
+++
Cotton
+++
Polyester
+++
Cotton
++++
Polyester
++++
Cotton
++++
Polyester
++++
Cotton
+++++
Polyester
+++++
Cotton
+++++
Polyester
+++++
* Evaluation based on rating by a panel of 10 judges from Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT-Mumbai, India
3.3 Qualitative evaluation of colour The colour evaluation was performed simply on qualitative basis. To have a relative idea about the new vintage dyeing, the dyed garments were kept inside a Colour Matching Cabinet at standard conditions and the colour assessment was done by a panel of 10 judges. Standard specimen of each scale was first given to all judges to rank the test specimen. Evaluation was done for all dyed garments which were initially conditioned at relative humidity of 65% and temperature of 270C. To prevent biasing, the judges were not allowed in or near the conditioning room, and specimens were brought to the judges in an evaluation room. To visualise colour, a specimen was kept inside the Colour Matching Cabinet and was rated under the effect of all the standard illuminants. Judges were allowed to take a July - August 2019
GARMENT DYEING round of 3-4 looks for each specimen and ranked them in prepared rating scales. No judge performed testing for more than 15 min period at stretch, with minimum 15 min rest period between the two sessions. The ratings have been illustrated in Table 2 considering the colour Imperon Red K-B. Similarly the garments dyed with Imperon Blue K-B and Imperon Yellow K-R were also rated by the panel and found to be in acceptable appearance.
3.5 Fastness assessment Washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of the dyed specimens were studied mainly in terms of influence of fixation conditions on them. Although every specimen was tested for fastness evaluation, the result of only a set of representative specimens are being illustrated as the trends are similar in different fabrics with different percentage shades. Table 5 illustrates that the wash and light fastness ratings for all the three type of pigments ranges from good to excellent with the increase in binder concentration, binder application time and curing time. The curing temperature of 130°C has been taken into consideration for all the assessments because of no significant change with it. The rubbing fastness of the dyed specimens ranges from moderate to good with varying process conditions as shown in
3.4 Quantitative evaluation of colour Four different zones of the cotton garment were taken into consideration for evaluation of the colour strength values in terms of K/S. Four different readings of K/ S were taken randomly for a particular zone of measurement and its individual standard deviations have
Table 3. Colour strength (K/S) and standard deviation of dyed garments. Parameter
Imperon Blue K-B
Imperon Yellow K-R
Zone
K/S
Imperon Red K-B
Zone
Zone
Back lower (Z1)
Back upper (Z2)
Front lower (Z3)
Front upper (Z4)
1.4285
1.0411
1.3591
1.2114
0.9842
1.1898
1.2863
1.1408
1.5372
1.274
4.3279
4.0962
4.6428
4.4723
1.7924
1.7992
1.9659
1.6385
1.0081
1.1614
1.4024
1.3412
4.7858
4.6521
4.6836
4.0489
2.0125
1.8173
2.185
1.7526
0.083665
0.143269
0.055378
0.203665
0.279503
0.148596
0.190631
0.120589
0.069519
0.184028 0.079028
Standard 0.17522 Deviation (si)
Back lower (Z1)
Back upper (Z2)
Front lower (Z3)
Front upper (Z4)
Back lower (Z1)
Back upper (Z2)
Front lower (Z3)
Front upper (Z4)
1.355
4.4574
4.3672
4.5201
4.418
1.743
1.6764
1.7364
1.6547
1.2382
4.6554
4.0456
4.3528
4.2512
1.9065
1.7038
1.9982
1.5602
Pigment
s 1
s 2
s 3
s 4
Overall standard deviation (s)
Imperon Blue K-B
0.17522
0.083665
0.143269
0.055378
0.054653
Imperon Yellow K-R
0.203665
0.279503
0.148596
0.190631
0.054586
Imperon Red K-B
0.120589
0.069519
0.184028
0.079028
0.052112
been calculated. The results as illustrated in Table 3 show that all of the individual deviations are of magnitude more than 0.05 which indicates the colour strength in a fixed zone of measurement varies largely than its average value. Table 4 illustrates the next level of measurement in continuation to Table 3. It specifies that the overall deviation of the respective standard deviation of the four zones of measurement is near to its average values of colour strength. The overall standard deviation values for the three dyes are very near to 0.05. This indicates the un-even dyeing effect on the garment is evenly patterned when judged as an overall look of the garment. July - August 2019
Table 6. When the binder concentration was increased from 30gpl - 60gpl, there is a slight improvement in rating ranging from half a step to one. Beyond a binder concentration of 60gpl, no significant improvement in crocking is found and the feel of the fabric becomes rough. Influence of curing time is minimal in case of rubbing fastness.
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Table 4. Overall standard deviation of dyed garments.
GARMENT DYEING Table 5. Washing and Light Fastness assessment.
Pigment
Type Binder concentration (%)
Binder application (min)time
Curing time (min)
10 20
30
40
50
60
1
3
5
7
5
10
15
Wash Fastness
3
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
5
3
3-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
5
5
Light Fastness
6
6
6-7
6-7
6-7
7
5
5
5-6
5-6
6
6
6
Wash Fastness
2-3 3
3-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
3
3-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
5
5
Light Fastness
5
5
5-6
5-6
5-6
6
5
5
5-6
5-6
6
6
6
Imperon Wash Yellow K-R Fastness
4
4
4-5
5
5
5
3
3-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
5
5
Light Fastness
6
6
6-7
6-7
6-7
7
5
5
5-6
5-6
6
6
6
Imperon Blue K-B
Imperon Red K-B
Table 6. Rubbing Fastness assessment.
Pigment
Type Binder concentration (%)
Imperon Blue K-B
Imperon Red K-B
30
40
50
60
1
3
5
7
5
10
15
Dry
2
2-3
3
3
3-4
4
2
2-3
3
3
4
4
4
Wet
2
2-3
3
3
3
3-4
2
2-3
3
3
3
3
3
Dry
2
3-4
4
4
4
4-5
2
3-4
4
4
3-4
4
4
Wet
2
2-3
3
3
3
3-4
2
2-3
3
3
3
3
3
2-3 3-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
5
2-3
3-4
4-5
4-5
3-4
4
4
2-3 3
3-4
3-4
3-4
4
2-3
3
3-4
3-4
3
3
3
Wet
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Curing time (min)
10 20
Imperon Dry Yellow K-R
4. Conclusion A novel un-evenly even dyeing by pigments on cotton and polyeste rgarment can be done successfully with satisfactory and acceptable even look provided the proper selection of binder, catalyst, dyeing process and variables are taken into consideration. The optimum concentration of binder and catalyst varies with shade depth at room temperature dyeing. Tumbler dryer used after dyeing gives good results when garment dried at 800C and further cured at 1300C for 10 min. Although the colour fastness to washing and colour fastness to light of the pigment dyeing is not a significant problem, the wet rubbing fastness is a matter of concern. But 104
Binder application (min)time
such limitation of pigment dyeing can be utilised with fashion trend dyeing. Application of coloration with pigments has multi-fold advantages as applicable to all natural, man-made fibres and blends, with a possibility of full range of shades and compound shades produced with ease. However, to get such desired look on the garment by pigments, tumble dryer gets dirty which requires cleaning process after each batch and to be taken up in the further scope of research.
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GARMENT DYEING References 1. Lever, T. (1992). Exhaust dyeing with pigments on cotton piece and garments. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 108(11), 477478. 2. Tyndall, M. R. (1996). Garment Wet Processing-An International Update. Textile Chemist &Colorist, 28(3), 25-27. 3. Saravanan, D. (2007). Garment dyeing: An overview. ASIAN TEXTILE JOURNAL-BOMBAY, 16(2), 31. 4. Anon, Garment Pigment Dyeing, Int.Textile Bulletin, 2004, pp 72-77. 5. http://WWW.statista.com/statistics/279757/apperalmarket-size-projection-by-region Introduction to automation in garment manufacturing ,Rajkishore Nayak , Rajiv Padhye, 6. Automation in Garment Manufacturing The Textile Institute Book Series 2018 7. http://www.thedailystar.net/business/exportershardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907, "Global apparel market size 2012-2025 | Statista". Statista.
Retrieved 2018-02-19., "U.S. online apparel and fashion revenue 2022 | Statistic". Statista. Retrieved 2018-02-19 8. Teli, M. D. (1985). Choice of binder in pigment printing. Textile Dyer & Printer, 18(18), 21-25. 9. Patra, A. K., Bhaumik, S., & Kaur, H. (2006). Studies on pigment dyeing of cotton by exhaust method.Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 31(3), 450-459. 10. Chattopadhyay, D. P. (2001). Cationization of cotton for low-salt or salt-free dyeing Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 26 (1-2), 106-115. 11. Osman, E. M., El-Ebissy, A. A., & Michael, M. N. (2009). Characterization and evaluation of the levelness parameters of natural dyes on natural fabrics. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 13(2), 61-68. 12. Azmeraw, A., Maiti, S., Biranje, S., Kulkarni, K., & Adivarekar., R. V. (2019), Microencapsulation for imparting aroma using Artemisia afra leaves on cotton. Asian Dyer, 16(3), 18-25.
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PEER REVIEWED
REVIEW ARTICLE
Microcrystalline Cellulose - A Review Kunal Bhandari & Sankar Roy Maulik* Department of Silpa-Sadana,Visva-Bharati(A Central University), Sriniketan-731236, District: Birbhum (WB) Abstract Incinaration is one of the most popular method of solid agricultural waste management. The most valuable aspect of development of microcrystalline cellulose is conversion of waste materials into a value added products. Each year, farming and agricultural processing generate millions of tons of wastes, such as corn cobs and husks, groundnut shells, rice straw, sugarcane bagasse, banana stems, soy hulls, jute industrial waste and sugar beet pulp. These agricultural residues, industrial wastes and other waste material from the plants are considered as the raw materials for making of microcrystalline cellulose. These biomasses are pretreated either mechanically or chemically for the reduction of particle size. This reduced mass is further treated chemically or biologically for the removal of hemicellulose, lignin and other impurities. Then the pure alpha cellulose is hydrolysed by either mineral acids or enzymes for the synthesis of microcrystalline cellulose. The odourless, colourless material is then characterised by FTIR, particle size distribution, degree of polymerization, wide angle crystallography, SEM, XPS, POM etc for the confirmation of microcrystalline structure. The presence of large number of hydroxyl groups in the structure and due to the excellent direct compressible property it is mostly used in pharmaceutical industry as a filler material. According to size and shape of the material it has wide application in cosmetic and toothpaste, food, paint and powder coating industry, welding electrode, ceramics and sanitary ware and textiles.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Keywords Agriculture, Cellulose, Ligno-cellulose, Microcrystalline cellulose, Value-added, Waste
1. Introduction Microcrystalline cellulose (MCC) is purified, partially depolymerized cellulose prepared by treating alphacellulose, obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant material, with mineral acids. The degree of polymerization is typically less than 400 and not more than 10% of the material has a particle size of less than 5 Îźm [1,2]. According to size and shape of the material it has wide application in cosmetic and toothpaste, food, paint and powder coating industry, welding electrode, ceramics, sanitaryware and textiles. The presence of large number of hydroxyl groups in the structure and due to excellent direct compressible property it has also been used in pharmaceutical industry as a filler material [3,4]. Farming and agricultural processing generate millions of tons of wastes. The common practice for the treatment of these solid agro-waste is to burn on the field which has an adverse effects for the land and environment. The most valuable aspect of development of MCC is the conversion of those waste materials which *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Sankar Ray Maulik, Assistant Professor - III, Department of Silpa-Sadana, Visva-Bharati(A Central University), Sriniketan-731236, District: Birbhum (WB). EMail : s_r_moulik@yahoo.co.in 106
are abanduntly available with very low price into a value added products [3,4]. Plant biomass is mainly composed of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin, along with smaller quantities of pectin, protein, extractives (soluble non-structural materials such as non-structural sugars, nitrogenous material, chlorophyll and waxes) and ash. Cellulose is a long chain polymer built up of a several anhydro-glucose units, composed of both crystalline and amorphous portions being the reinforcing element in the plant cell wall with advantageously high in stiffness and strength [5]. Hemicellulose belong to a group of heterogeneous polysaccharides which are formed through biosynthetic routes and mostly function as supporting material for the cell wall [6]. Lignin is an extremely complex three-dimensional polymer formed by dehydrogenative polymerization of cinnamyl, coniferyl and sinapyl alcohols [7-9]. 2. Raw Materials Microcrystalline cellulose can be synthesised from cellulosic or lingo-cellulosic biomass. Some of them are discussed below. 2.1 Corncobs and husks Corncobs contain approximately cellulose (39.1%), hemicellulose (42.1% ) and lignin (9.1%). Corn resiJuly - August 2019
REVIEW ARTICLE
2.2 Peanut shells Peanut shell contains cellulose (40.5%), lignin (26.4%), and hemicellulose (14.7). This can be used for the production of bioethanol [13]. 2.3 Rice straw Rice straw, a by-product of the rice production is mainly composed of cellulose (43%), hemicellulose (25%) and lignin (12%). It is used as a source of feed for livestock and the disposal of rice straw is a serious problem [14]. 2.4 Wheat straw Wheat straw consists of cellulose (33-40%), hemicellulose (20-25%), lignin (15-20%), ash (2-7%), extractives (5%), etc [15]. Wheat straw is an efficient feedstock for fermentable applications, which result in higher biofuel yields in downstream fermentation processes[16]. 2.5 Jute caddies The jute industry generates about 40,000 t of processing waste as by-product, commonly known as caddies. The major constituent of this waste is unspinnable short jute fibre along with batching oil, machine oil and grease, barks of the jute plant and inorganic dirts. This fibrous cellulose (58-63%) present in caddies is an unexplored materials. Traditionally jute industries are using this waste as fuel for the boiler to generate steam [17, 18].
production of MCC. Sรกnchez et. al. [21] had reported that lignin is an amorphous polymer and is the major cementing component of the lignocellulosic material. It has molecular mass of around 103 to 105 depending on plant species and variations. 3.1 Pretreatment processes of lignocellulosic biomass 3.1.1 Mechanical Raw materials obtained from different sources do not have any particular size or from. Hence, it has to cut or shreded into a particular size for further treatment. Milling (cutting the lignocellulosic biomass into smaller pieces) is a mechanical pretreatment process and the objective of this pretreatment is to reduce particle size. Different researchers investigated various mechanical pretreatment processes which are enlisted below. Voraet. al.[22] had sliced the corn husk with a hand knife and dried in a hot air oven at 600C for 9 h. The dried husk was then pulverized in a domestic blender to produce powdered corn husk. Murigiet. al.[23] had dried the corn husk in air followed by washing in order to remove particulates. It was then dried at 1050C over night. The dried samples were then ground so that it can pass through a mesh size of 144 before the isolation of cellulose. Lin et. al.[24] had used banana farming residues washed in distilled water followed by biological retting through fermentation and finally chopped in 2-4 cm size for further processes.
3. Review of Published Research Work The development of MCC and its application has been reported by different researchers. Some of those are reported hereunder.
Hang et. al. [25] chopped the corncobs into small pieces by a Hobart chopper [28], whereas Zuluagaet. al.[26] cleaned the banana plant residues with fresh water and dried at 900C temperature overnight followed by cutting into small pieces of 100-300 mm length. Sun et. al.[27] had dried the barley straws in sunlight and then ground it so that it can pass through 1 mm size screen. According to Sun Y et. al. [28], the size of the materials is usually around 10 - 30mm after chipping and 0.2 - 2 mm after milling or grinding. Takacs E et. al.[29] had reported the relationship between the final particle size and energy input. The author concluded that the energy input for comminution can be kept below 30 kWh per ton of biomass for the final particle size in the range of 3 - 6 mm. The energy consumption is higher than the theoretical energy content.
According to Demain, et.al [20], the lignocellulosic agricultural by-products can be effectively used for the
3.1.2 Pyrolysis According to Shafizadeh F et. al.[30], pyrolysis is an-
2.6 Jute sticks Jute sticks, considered as an agricultural waste, can be used as raw material for a number of ancillary industries. However, a substantial portion is used as fuel, fencing and thatching; only a small percentage is used in the manufacture of jute boards. Chemically the jute stick is composed of cellulose (40.8 - 47.5), hemicellulose (23 -23.6), lignin (22.2 -23.5), fats and wax (1.72.4), ash (0.6 - 0.8%), etc [19].
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dues show great potential as a renewable raw material for producing a variety of chemicals viz. lactic acid, citric acid, sugars, ethanol and pharmaceuticals [10,11]. On the other hand the chemical composition of corn husk comprised of cellulose (31-39%), hemicellulose (34 - 41%), lignin (2- 14%), ash (3-7%), extractives (10-18% ) and water soluble components [12].
REVIEW ARTICLE other approach for the pretreatment of lignocellulosic materials. Cellulose rapidly decomposes to gaseous products and residual char, when biomass is subjected to a temperature of more than 300°C [30]. Fan L et. al. [31] had mentioned that the decomposition of cellulose at lower temperatures is much slower, and the products formed are less volatile. 3.1.3 Thermal pretreatment Some of the researchers [32, 33] observed that during thermal pretreatment process, if the lignocellulosic biomass is heated to a temperature of around 150-1800C hemicelluloses start solubilising shortly followed by lignin.
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3.1.4 Steam pretreatment/steam explosion (ST/SE) Some of the researchers [34, 35] had also studied the steam explosion process and observed that during this process part of the hemicellulose hydrolyze and form acids, which could catalyze the further hydrolysis of the hemicellulose. In the steam explosion pretreatment the biomass is placed in a large vessel at a temperature (upto 2400C) and pressure for a few minutes. The quick releasing of pressure and cooling down of the biomass after steam explosion causes the water present in the biomass to explode [34]. According to Brownell H Het. al. [35] the moisture content of the biomass influences the pretreatment time during steam explosion. Higher the moisture content, more time is needed for steam pretreatment. 3.1.5 Ammonia fiber explosion (AFEX) Ammonia fiber explosion is a physico-chemical pretreatment process where lignocellulosic biomass is exposed to liquid ammonia at high temperature and pressure for some time and then the pressure is reduced suddenly. The AFEX process is very much similar to steam explosion. In a typical AFEX process the biomass is treated with liquid ammonia (1-2 kg of ammonia/kg of dry biomass) at a temperature of 900C for 30 min. A schematic apparatus for ammonia fiber explosion pretreatment of biomass had been reported by Teymouri F et. al. [36]. 3.1.6 Carbon dioxide explosion Supercritical carbon dioxide explosion is another improved pretreatment technique for lignocellulosic biomass as comared to steam and ammonia explosion. It requires lower temperature than steam explosion and cost is also lower than ammonia explosion. Carbon dioxide molecules are comparable in size to water and it can penetrate to the small pores of lignocellulosic biomass, and make a accessible path for water and 108
ammonia molecules. Carbon dioxide is very much useful in hydrolyzing hemicelluloses as well as cellulose [37]. 3.1.7 Microwave Now-a-days, microwave irradiation is widely used for the pretreatment of lignocellulosic feedstock because of i) easy operation (ii) low energy requirement (iii) high heating capacity in short duration of time (iv) minimum generation of inhibitors and (v) degrades structural organization of cellulose polymers. A study on microwave based alkali pretreatment had been reported by Hu, et al [38]. 3.1.8 Ultrasound Sonication is relatively a new technique used for the pretreatment of lignocellulosic biomass. Ultrasound waves alter both physical and chemical morphology of lignocellulosic biomass. Ultrasound treatment also leads to the formation of small cavitation bubbles, which rupture the cellulose and hemicellulose into fractions as reported by Chen W H et. al.[39]. Yachmenevet. al.[40] had also reported that the maximum cavitation was formed at 50°C temperature and the ultrasonic field is primarily influenced by frequency, duration, reactor geometry and its type and solvent used. 3.1.9 Chemical pretreatment 3.1.9.1 Ozonolysis Ozone treatment is one of the way to reduce the lignin content of lignocellulosic wastes. Vidal et al [41] had reported that ozonolysis does not produce any toxic residues unlike other chemical treatment. 3.1.9.2 Acid pretreatment According to Jeevanadaet. al. [42], pretreatments with dilute mineral acids at low temperatures alter the crystalline structure and making the substrate swells which facilitates the penetration of water molecules into the cellulose crystals, thereby expanding the specific surface area. Mineral acids viz. sulphuric and hydrochloric acid had been used by various researchers [43, 44] as pretreatment chemical to treat lignocellulosic materials. Acid hydrolysis results in improvement of enzymatic hydrolysis of lignocellulosic biomasses to release fermentable sugars. Concentrated acids are toxic, corrosive, hazardous, and thus require reactors those are resistant to corrosion and makes the pretreatment process very expensive. In addition, the consumed concentrated acid needs to be recovered after hydrolysis to make the process economically feasible. Sannigrahiet al.[44] had reported that during acid pretreatment a severe solubilisation and also some degradation of July - August 2019
REVIEW ARTICLE monomers of hemicellulose occur along with the change in the lignin structure and according to Li et. al [45] the molecular weight distribution of lignin is also decreased. 3.1.9.3 Alkaline pretreatment Fengel D et al. [46] had reported an important aspect of alkaline pretreatment. According to them, after alkali pretreatment the cellulose morphology is changed to a more thermodynamically stable condensed form as compared to native cellulose. Solvation and saponification of hemicelluloses fragments are the first reaction which takes place during alkali pretreatment. This causes a swollen state of the biomass and makes it more accessible for further treatment [47]. 3.1.9.4 Oxidative pretreatment Hon, et al. [48] had investigated the oxidative pretreatment of lignocellulosic biomass with hydrogen peroxide or peracetic acid. It increases the accessibility of the cellulose by removing hemicellulose and lignin. During oxidative pretreatment electrophilic substitution, displacement of side chains, cleavage of alkyl aryl ether linkages or the oxidative cleavage of aromatic nuclei are taking place. 3.1.9.5 Organosolv process In the organosolvation process, an organic or aqueous organic solvent mixed with inorganic acid catalysts viz. hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid is used to break the
internal lignin and hemicellulose bonds. Methanol, ethanol, acetone, ethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol are most commonly used as solvents. According to Chum et. al. [49]organic acids viz. oxalic, acetyl salicylic and salicylic acids can also be used as catalysts in the organosolvation process. A comparative advantages and drawbacks of various processes used for the pretreatment of lignocellulosic biomass is reported in Table 1[50]. 3.2 Delignification process Delignification is the destruction process of the lignin that fills the interpolymeric spaces in the walls of dead plant cell. The delignification of biomass can be done in various ways. Different researchers execute the delignification process in various ways. Some of them are enlisted below. 3.2.1 Biological delignification Singh et al.[51] had reported that bacteria's are not the popularly used microorganism for delignification process. Most of the studies reveal Bacillus strains, although Cellulomonas and Zymomonashave also been tried as ligninolytic bacteria. Table 2 shows various biological pretreatment strategies involved for lignocellulosic biomass and its advantages[50].
Pretreatment process
Advantages
Disadvantages
Mechanical
Reduces cellulose crystallinity
Power consumption usually higher than inherent biomass energy
Steam explosion AFEX
Causes hemicellulose degradation and lignin transformation; cost-effective; Increases accessible surface area, removes lignin and hemicellulose to an extent; does not produce inhibitors for downstream processes
Destruction of a portion of the xylan fraction; incomplete disruption of the lignin-carbohydrate matrix; generation of compounds inhibitory to microorganisms Not efficient for biomass with high lignin content
CO2 explosion
Increases accessible surface area; cost-effec- Does not modify lignin or hemicelluloses tive; does not cause formation of inhibitory compounds
Ozonolysis
Reduces lignin content; does not produce toxic Large amount of ozone required; expensive residues
Acid hydrolysis
Hydrolyzes hemicellulose to xylose and other High cost; equipment corrosion; formation of toxic substances sugars; alters lignin structure
Organosolv
Hydrolyzes lignin and hemicelluloses
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Solvents need to be drained from the reactor, evaporated, condensed, and recycled; high cost 109
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Table 1: Various processes used for the pretreatment of lignocellulosic biomass
REVIEW ARTICLE Table 2: Different biological pretreatment strategies
Microorganism
Biomass
Major effects
Punctualaria sp.
Bamboo culms
50% lignin removal
Irpexlacteus
Corn stalks
82% of hydrolysis yield
Fungal consortium
Straw
20-fold increase in hydrolysis
P.ostreatus/P.pulmonarius
Eucalyptus grandis saw dust
20-fold increase in hydrolysis
Fungal consortium
Corn stover
43.8% lignin removal/sevenfold increase in hydrolysis
Ceriporiopsissubvermispora
Wheat straw
Minimal cellulose loss
Ceriporiopsissubvermispora
Corn stover
2- to 3-fold increase in reducing sugar yield
Fungal consortium
Plant biomass
Complete elimination of use of hazardous chemicals
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3.2.2 Chemical delignification 3.2.2.1 Sodium chlorite as a delignificant Acid-chlorite is the simplest and easiest to operate for the generation of oxidants. The theoretical conversion of sodium chlorite to chlorine dioxide is only 80%, while the chlorine-chlorite and acid-hypochlorite-chlorite reactions both have 100% conversions theoretically [52]. Ahmad Z et. al.[53] used sodium chlorite at strength of 5% keeping a material to liquor ratio of 14 at 800C for 18 min on rice husk residues. Pachuauet. al.[54, 55] used sodium chlorite at strength of 0.6 gm/gm of Muli Bamboo at a material to liquor ratio of 1:30 for one h at a temperature of 700C. He also used sodium chlorite at a concentration of 2% and 5% at 700C for one hour followed by treatment with potassium hydroxide solution at 900C for 2 h. Azubuikeet. al.[56] had also used sodium chlorite at a concentration of 3.2% at 400C for one and half hour on corn cob residues. Suvachitanontet. al.[57] used sodium chlorite along with acetic acid at 700Cfor one hour. Mario et. al.[58] had reported the use of 5% sodium chlorite at 300C for 3 h on banana plant residues. Li et. al.[59] used sodium chlorite at different concentration level on mulberry tree residues at 800C for 1.5 h. 3.2.2.2 Peracetic acid as a delignificant Environmental issues related to the chlorine containing bleaching agents forced the manufacturers to follow the bleaching conditions of either elemental chlorinefree (ECF) or totally chlorine-free (TCF) bleaching sequences. Potucek F et. al.[60] had reported that peracetic acid can be used as an alternative of chlorine containing bleaching agents [60]. Lam et. al.[61] had observed that lignin can be oxidized with peracetic acid. Khamaet. al.[62] used acetic acid/formic/hydro110
gen peroxide at 60:20:20 ratio for 1.5 h at a temperature of 800C on wheat straw residues. 3.2.2.3 Peroxoacids as a delignificant Peroxoacids are generally synthesized through a reaction between a carboxylic acid and hydrogen peroxide. This reaction is slow and reversible in nature when there is no strong mineral acid is used as catalyst. The role of the strong acid is to supply the protons required for synthesis of peroxoacids [63]. Klinkeet. al. [64] also pointed out the formation of peroxoformic acids through the reaction between hydrogen peroxide and formic acid, which does not require the addition of a strong mineral acid, since the reaction is autocatalyzed. 3.2.2.4 Hydrogen peroxide as delignificant Hydrogen peroxide at lower concentration can not be used as a delignificant. Murigiet. al.[23] had reported that 20 % of hydrogen peroxide at a material to liquor ratio of 1:5 at 750C on water hyacinth can be used to remove lignin. 3.3 Causticisation Concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide is used for the removal hemicellulose. According to Camacho et. al.[65] alkali treatment of lignocellulosic biomass is widely used in industrial scale. Different researchers had studied the effect of time, temperature, alkali concentration on lignocellulosic biomass. Some of them are listed below. Ahmad et. al.[53] had used 1 M concentration of sodium hydroxide at a material to liquor ratio of 1:12 for 1.36h at 800C on corn husks. Pachuauet. al.[54] had applied 17.5% sodium hydroxide solution at 900C for July - August 2019
REVIEW ARTICLE
3.4 Acid hydrolysis Increasing the acid concentration provokes the individualization of the cellulose molecules and breaking up of these molecules to a lower degree of polymerization. This acid hydrolysis leads to the solubilization of the substrate and the formation of glucose as the end product as reported by Pachuauet. al. [55]. Different reasearchers investigated the acid hydrolysis conditions and its performance for the synthesis of microcrystalline cellulose. Voraet. al.[1] had studied the effect of using 1 M and 2 M nitric acid and hydrochloric acid on rice husks at a material to liquor ratio of 1:6 for 30 min at room temperature and observed a yield of 80 % and 60% respectively. Murigiet. al.[23] used hydrochloric acid on water hyacinth at 850C for 15 min and reported a yield of around 20%. According to Pachuauet. al.[54] use of 2.5 N hydrochloric acid at a material to liquor ratio of 1:20 for 15 min at 1050C temperature on muli bamboo produce a yield of 46.68%. Jahanet al.[68] had studied the effect of 2 N sulphuric acid on jute fibre at 1050C for 15 min at a material to liquor ratio of 1:25 and reported a yield of 88.35 %. Ilindraet. al.[67] had reported the use of 2 N sulphuric acid at a material to liquor ratio of 1:10 for 1 h on rice hulls. Adedokunet. al.[69] had used 2.5 N hydrochloric acid and reported a yield of 70 % on S. Officinarum. Chauhan et. al.[70] had studied the effect of 2.5 M hydrochloric acid on cotton fabric for 30 min and observed a yield of 90%.. Haafizaet. al.[71] used 2.5 M hydrochloric acid on oil palm residues at 1050C for 30 min. 4. Characterization of microcrystalline cellulose Some researchers [72-74 ] had conducted the study on characterisation of microcrystalline cellulose in different manners. 4.1 Physicochemical properties The Organoleptic characteristic i.e. taste, odour and colour, identification, organic impurities, starch and July - August 2019
dextrin, solubility and total ash can be carried out to identify microcrystalline cellulose. Optical microscope is used for preliminary assessment of the nature of particles. 4.2 pH determination A specified amount of MCC is shaken with distilled water for 5 min and the pH of supernatant liquid is measured. 4.3 Total ash content Ash content can be estimated by measuring the residue left after combustion in a furnace. 4.4 FTIR spectroscopy The FTIR spectroscopy is used to analyse the functional groups of the MCC samples. 4.5 Thermogravimetric analysis TG analysis is done at the temperature range of 400C - 8550C with 100C/min heating rate. 4.6 Morphological analysis The morphology and size distribution of MCC can be studied by using SEM and AFM. 4.7 X-ray diffraction X-ray diffraction (XRD) is carried out to study the crystallinity of the MCC samples. 4.8 Degree of polymerization (DP) Degree of polymerization (DP) can be determined by measuring the viscosity of the microcrystalline cellulose in bis(ethylenediamine) copper (II) hydroxide solution. 4.9 Angle of repose (q) Angle of repose (q) denotes the maximum angle to the horizontal at which MCC will remain without sliding. It is measured by using a fixed height funnel fitted at the height of 10 cm from the base. The angle of repose is calculated from the height and radius of the pile. 4.10 Powder properties 4.10.1 Sieve analysis A sieve-shaker is used for this assessment. 10 g of MCC powder is placed on the top sieve and shakes at an amplitude of 1.50 mm/g for 5 min. The weight of material retained on each sieve can be determined by subtracting the weight of the empty sieves from the weight of sieves containing the powder. 111
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1 h on muli bamboo keeping a material to liquor ratio of 1:33. Murigiet. al.[23] had reported the use of 10% sodium hydroxide at a material to liquor ratio of 1:10 for 3 h at 100oC on water hyacinth. Azubuikeet. al.[56] had applied 2% sodium hydroxide and 2% Na2SO3 at 500C for 1 h on corn cobs. Suvachitanontet. al.[57] had also studied the effect of 10% sodium hydroxide on corn cobs at 900C for 1 h. Elanthikkal et. al.[66] had used 1 M sodium hydroxide solution at 800C for 4 h on banana plant. Ilindraet. al.[67] had studied the effect of 17.5% sodium hydroxide solution for 2 h on rice straw, soy hulls and wheat straw.
REVIEW ARTICLE 4.10.2 Particle size analysis The particle size of MCC is determined by microscopic method. 4.10.3 Swelling index The swelling index is determined on a graduated measuring cylinder of 25 ml capacity taking water as a medium. 4.10.4 Moisture sorption capacity One gram of MCC is accurately weighed and evenly distributed over the surface of a 70 mm tarred Petri dish. The samples were then placed in a large desiccators containing distilled water in its reservoir (RH = 100 %) at room temperature and the weight gained by the exposed samples over a five-day period is recorded and the amount of water sorbed can be calculated from the weight difference. 4.10.5 Loss on drying The powder sample is transferred into a Petri dish followed by drying in an oven at 105oC temperature until a constant weight is obtained. The % moisture content is then calculated. 4.11 Powder flow properties 4.11.1 Bulk and tap densities 10 g of the powder sample is placed in a 50 ml clean, dry measuring cylinder and the volume occupied by the sample without tapping is determined. After 5 mechanical taps of the cylinder on a horizontal surface the occupied volume Vf is noted. The bulk and tap densities are calculated as the ratio of sample weight to volume.
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4.11.2 Carr's index This is determined from the following equation % Compressibility = (Tap density - bulk density) x 100% 5. Application of Microcrystalline cellulose MCC can be used in various ways. Some of the important use of microcrystalline cellulose are [75, 76] : application in print paste, food products, medicine,PVC film Composite, etc. 6. Conclusions On the basis of the literature survey few conclusions can be drawn for the development of microcrystalline cellulose through an appropriate process so that industrial and agricultural waste can be converted to value added products that may be used as filler materials for 112
medicine, food substitutes etc. Previous researchers were mostly concentrating on the chemical pathway for the extraction of microcrystalline cellulose. Among the available chemical process for the formation of microcrystalline cellulose, sodium chlorite and per acetic acid are the most efficient chemical species. The researchers mainly concentrated on the synthesis and the amount requirement and application procedures. But there are few gaps regarding the process sequences, optimized recipe for a particular raw material, indigenous equipments required for the chemical process, which needs to be explored further. References 1.
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The Relationship Between Cultural Factors & Entrepreneurial Factors : A Case Study of Different Countries Saad S. Hussein*, Satam S. Hussein & Wisam Neema Hussein Department of Accounting, University of Tikrit, Iraq Abstract This paper examines empirically the relationship and the impact of cultural factors as independent variables i.e. perceived Opportunity (PO), High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs (SE), Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice (EGC) on entrepreneurial factors i.e. Innovation (INNO), Entrepreneurial Employee Activity (EEA), and successful entrepreneurs receive high status (SE) in order to measure the impact of good opportunities (PO). Data were collected through Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) 579 readings of countries in Asia, Africa, Europe, Latin America & Caribbean North America and Oceana for 16 years period from 2001 to 2016. Correlation and regression analysis were used to measure the impact and the relationship among the study variables. The findings of the study indicate that there is mixed relationship in different scenarios. For instance, there is a significant relationship between entrepreneurship (INNO and IEM) and firm success (SE) in case of Europe and Latin America & Caribbean. Whereas, insignificant relationship for the rest of cases. The contradicting findings regarding Asia, North America and Caribbean due to lack of consisting data used for the analysis. The results also showed a significant relationship between entrepreneurship and culture (PO). Likewise, a significant relationship was found between culture and firm success. It is therefore, the results reject the first hypotheses and accept the second and third hypotheses of the study.
1. Introduction The relationship between cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors have been an important theme for the academicians, executives and governments in which has become an integrated part of successful firms, in the national and across the border level in the same momentum. It is an obvious fact in the management literature that the level of entrepreneurial activities vary from country to country due to different factors that play the role of formulating the business itself and its activities. For instance the implication of the cultural factors and entrepreneurial factors relationship can provide a map of how foreign investment flow and factor of success in a specific country to another. Entrepreneurship may not be enough across boarders at the present scenario of the world. Nevertheless, cultural factors can positively support entrepreneurship to reach firm success and sustainability. The entrepre* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Mr. Saad S. Hussein Assistant Professor, Faculty, Department of Accounting, University of Tikrit, Iraq. E Mail : shussein@tu.edu.iq July - August 2019
neurial businesses and firm success considering high performance as an indicator of success has been widely examined [1]; In fact, there are different scenarios have been the attention of scholars in order to explain the factors that affect the level of entrepreneurship. For instance, [3]; [5]; [6] have attributed this difference to many factors such as the levels of economic development (the economic factors) that provide the dynamic power to sustain any business, diverging demographic. Cultural and institutional characteristics, in fact, this factor has a great role of firm success hence it has the power of creating a business or even penetration and expansion to other markets have the same or close culture with the expanding firm. Therefore, [6], [7] have suggested the cultural factors to be considered beyond the economic factors, which can play the role in the entrepreneurship businesses success. Further, the political and home security factors must be considered, where in some cases the political and security factor has the role of business success within the country and between the countries. The technology factor could be one of the determined factors that play the role of business development. For instance, how the international or even inside the country banking 115
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Keywords Cultural factors, Entrepreneurial factors, Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM).
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complicated in order to facilitate the business expansion. On the other side, authors of [4] found a significant difference among the businesses within the country and in different countries when it comes to the percentage of owner/managers of businesses based on the labor force factor. Plethora of empirical research based on Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) using the occurrence of young initiatives as an indicator have found a U-shaped relationship between the level of business ownership and per capita income[9]. Authors of [10]stated that the U-shape relationship still needs more empirical testing and more explanation using the double causal relationship between entrepreneurship (indicated by business ownership rates, self-employment rates or nascent entrepreneurship rates) and the level of economic development. The study at [11] has supported this statement. However, specific factors related to cultural and entrepreneurship derived from the Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) will be the focus in the study. For instance, three important cultural factors will be the attention to consider in this study. Firstly, the perceived Opportunity (PO), which consider people whom the age is ranging between 18-64 years. Those people consider the culture where the firm establisher live. Therefore, they see a superior opportunity for the firm to success when it starts in the area where the people live where; the entrepreneur knows exactly the culture and know how to deal with the needs of people from inside the culture. Secondly, the High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs (SE), in this category of cultural factors the success of business has the signs when they formed at the national level culture, the same age range was considered in this factor who agree with the statement that in their country, successful entrepreneurs receive high status. Thirdly, Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice (ECG) where the age range was considered as the same as the previous factors. Those people support and agree with the statement that in their country, most people consider starting a business as a desirable career choice. On the other hand, two Entrepreneurial factors that will be considered in this study. Firstly, Entrepreneurial Employee Activity (IEM), this factor focuses on the employees involvement in the firms entrepreneurial activities, where the rate of involvement of employees in entrepreneurial activities, as an indicator of entrepreneurship of the firms when a new good or service launched. Secondly, Innovation (INN), indeed the innovation is considered as a core of entrepreneurship. 116
Despite the different factors and variables have been proposed by the researchers in different contexts i.e. [12]; [13]; [14]; However, the literature is still silent to find out the impact of cultural factors on Entrepreneurial factors across the countries which can help the entrepreneurs to work across the borders with respect of the cultural factors of the host country and thus to reach the firm success and sustainability. This work thus is an attempt to explore the impact of three important cultural factors (PO, SE and EGC) on two Entrepreneurial factors (IEM and INNO). The rest of the paper has been proposed as the following. The second part is the literature review. The third part is the data and proposed methodology. Fourthly, empirical results and finally the paper ended at the concluding remarks. 2. Literature review The management and accounting literature have stated that entrepreneurship is depending on available opportunities or even risk taking by the entrepreneurs. For instance,as stated by [18] that the idiom entrepreneurial capabilities refers to an ability that acquires necessary resources to perform upon opportune moments recognized in the market or new market opportunities creation. At the inception of the venture, entrepreneurial capabilities can be crucial to success, while these capabilities become less important and relevant as the venture matures. More in a specific manner, entrepreneurial capabilities enable firms to improve the bundles of resources. Nevertheless, the study at [19] has claimed that entrepreneurship is merely a process of creating an opportunity regardless of the resources. Whereas. At [20], the author endorsed this statement. On the other hand, the businesses in general facing challenges at the national level with greater reason the challenges will be more when across the national borders. The authors of [24] have stated that the newly established firms usually have limited financial and managerial resources. The IE terminology have been developed and explored by many scholars in the field of management and business studies. At [22]. Authors have stated that there is no universally accepted definition of entrepreneurship. The International Entrepreneurship is a difficult domain to be specified and defined due to overlapping the term with other constructs, such as innovation, change management, and strategic management. Yet, there are many researchers have tried to construct the concept of entrepreneurship. For instance, [12] and[13] have given their input and contribution to the literature. July - August 2019
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Further, another feature was suggested by researcher to explain the entrepreneurship and firm success Viz. creating value in business organizations. It is also found entrepreneurship is an opportunity of seeking a new ventures inside the country or even across the borders. The entrepreneurs' behaviour of risk-taking did not ignored by researchers while observing the entrepreneurship along with the scope of decision action. A study at [12] combined three dimensions of entrepreneurship when they tried to specify the entrepreneurship through innovation, proactive behavior, and riskseeking action. At [18] have been more elaborated when they tried to specify the Dimensions of the entrepreneurship Capability (IEC) through five dimensions i.e. the the Networking Capability (INC), Marketing Capability (IMC), Innovation and Risk-Taking Capability (IRC), Learning Capability (ILC) and Experience (IE). On the other side, many scholars related the entrepreneurial leadership capabilities with firm success (performance) and found a strong relationship [24]; [25]; [26]; [27]. Nevertheless, the literature did not overcome the controversy over the delimitation in this subject. Another study such as [13] focused on the competitive advantage as a proxy of success for the firms. For instance, author of [46]claimed that International Entrepreneurship (IE) is the business across the national boarders in which it is adapting the new business environment. In fact, the national and international entrepreneurship has no difference accept the scope of work. Authors at [10] have stated that the entrepreneurship is a combination of innovative, proactive, and risk-seeking behavior for the firms at the national level and across the country borders in order to create value in firms. Some other researchers were very caring about risk-taking behaviour of the firm's along with opportunity creating for the business. The [16] and [16] considered entrepreneurship as a ventures into new markets. Further, entrepreneurship is usually associated with opportunity seeking, risk taking, and decision action [14]. However, another studies had July - August 2019
stated further that entrepreneurship is process influenced by the leaders of the firm's through their decision about innovation. It is found in the management and accounting literature that there is a huge demand to strengthen an interpretative framework that can serve as a foundation for future theory of building and testing of entrepreneurial capability [28]. In this, at[18]proposed an integrative framework for responds to that need. Further, they specified that the organizational and the personal capabilities are two fundamental capabilities in which, the organization capabilities. Whereas, the ontological side of entrepreneurial capability corresponds with the personal capability. Again, the social and cultural capabilities can influence the entrepreneurs in creating and expanding their businesses. At [47], author stated that social life could influenced by collective values. In some countries, build their businesses based on the society social and cultural values. The entrepreneurs follow the basic objectives of any business through maximizing their profits, which reflects positively and corresponds the growing of the business wealth. In this, specifying the dimensions, which may affect the business, is the key for the entrepreneurs to expand and success. 3. The relationship between Entrepreneurship and firm success While observing and emphasizing the management and accounting literature, it has been found different overviews regarding the firm performance (success). The complexity to capture the firm success derived from the multidimensionality of the concept when it vary between financial and operational (non-financial) along with the performance [29]. Regarding the relationship between entrepreneurship and firm success, some empirical studies have come up to a strong relationship between them. For instance [30], [31] have stated that entrepreneurship is considered as a determinant for firms' financial success. While the entrepreneurs are always looking for a new opportunity that add value to the firm and targeting the opportunities at the national border or even across the national borders which subsequently influences the firms' financial success [32]. Based on the related literature it is hypothesized that: H1: Entrepreneurship has a significant influence on firm success.
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Their contribution and understanding regarding IE was varies between new opportunities of competitive advantage. For example, Businesses in an increasing number of countries are seeking international competitive advantage through entrepreneurial innovation [40]. In another words entrepreneurship does not necessarily mean a new business idea or scope rather the business has to be a useful and serving the society. The survival and growth of every business is largely dependent on the adoption and implementation of appropriate strategies.
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3.1 The relationship between Entrepreneurship and Culture Plethora of research paper have found a contradiction relationship between Entrepreneurship and Culture. While some of them have found a strong relationship through explaining the influence of culture on entrepreneurship [36]; [37]. Yet, a solid explanation for the said relationship was not build. The effect of culture as a determinant of entrepreneurship was not clear. It is thus, it is hypothesized that: H2: There is a significant relationship between entrepreneurship and culture. 3.2 The relationship between Culture and firm success In the management and business literature, the concept of culture has treated with two derivatives, the first was related to culture of the society in which the firm is working in, and secondly the firms' culture which reflects the first derivative of culture. Empirical studies confirmed the relationship between culture and firm success through high performance. For instance [38], specified and related the society culture with firms' performance, since his paper gave the specifics of culture by defining it as a model of norms, values, beliefs and attitudes, which consequently affects organizational behaviour. The clan control has the role of simplifying the uncertain requires the development of shared social knowledge through determining the best interest of the collective and supports the perception of goal congruence. It is thus, supports the firms' success through high performance and work efficiency when the firm understand and work under the same norms and values of the society beliefs and attitudes of the external business environment. Whereas, the firms' culture (organizational culture) was a focus of many researchers and have found a significant relationship with firms' Success. For instance, [38] have proved the significant relationship between culture and firm Success through high performance. However, the [39] argued that the extent to which organizations will develop cultures will not be the same and vary between one firm to another and indeed be relatively infrequent. The evidences showed above devote the relationship between organizational culture and firms' performance. Based on this proposition it is hypothesized that: H3: There is a significant relationship between culture and firm success
enty-seven countries have been considered for the analysis from different continentals in the globe i.e ((Asia (N=160) (18 countries), Africa (N=69) (15 countries), Europe (N=143) (25 countries) Latin America and Caribbean (N=159) (13 countries), North America (N=26) (2 countries) and Oceana (N=18) (4 countries)). Variables considered in the analysis were factors for entrepreneurship and cultural factor as specified into two groups as shown hereunder: Cultural factors. a. Percentage of 18-64 population who see good opportunities to start a firm in the area where they live(PO). b. Percentage of 18-64 population who agree with the statement that in their country, successful entrepreneurs receive high status (SE). c. Percentage of 18-64 population who agree with the statement that in their country, most people consider starting a business as a desirable career choice (EGC). Entrepreneurial factors. 1. Rate of involvement of employees in entrepreneurial activities, such as developing or launching new goods or services, or setting up a new business unit, a new establishment or subsidiary (IEM). 2. Percentage of those involved in Total Early-Stage Entrepreneurial Activity (TEA) rate who indicate that their product or service is new to at least some customers and that few/no businesses offer the same product (INNO). 3. Correlation analysis was used in this study to show the direction and the strength of the relationship between the cultural factors from one side and Entrepreneurial factors from the other. 5. Regression Model The following three models are used to examine the impact of cultural factors as an independent variable i.e. perceived Opportunity (PO), High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs (SE), Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice (EGC) on entrepreneurial factors Innovation (INNO) as a depended variable in model 1, and Entrepreneurial Employee Activity (IEM) as a depended variable in model 2. While model 3 shows the impact of (PO) on (SE).
4. Data and Methodology Data were collected from Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) for 16 years from 2001 to 2016. Sev118
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6. Empirical results 6.1 Correlation results Correlation matrixes were produced as continentalsbased results for six different groups of countries. Table 1 shows the correlation matrix for the cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Asia. A cursory look into the table shows that the cultural factors have insignificant relationship with Entrepreneurial factors, whereas the cultural factor (PO) has a positive significant relationship with firm success (SE). This relationship was not found between Entrepreneurship (INN and IEM) and firm success (SE) or even with Culture (PO). However, the positive relationship cannot be ignored between the two groups of factors. Table 1: Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Asia. Factor
PO
IEM
INNO
SE
EGC
PO
1
IEM
0.181
1
INNO
0.144
0.183
SE
0.562** 0.135
-0.087
1
EGC
0.600** 0.093
-0.010
0.789** 1
1
Notes: **. Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2tailed). Asia (N=160) (18 countries for data from 2001-2016)
Table 2 shows the correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Africa. A look into the table indicate that almost all the factors have insignificant relationship. Nevertheless, there is a negative significant relationship between the perceived opportunity as Cultural factor and with innovation as Entrepreneurial factor. Therefore, thisresults confirmed the second hypothesis and reject the first and third hypothesis of the study, where the Culture (PO) has a significant relationship with Entrepreneurship (INNO) with (-0.420) at 5% level of significance.
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Table 2: Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Africa. Factor
PO
IEM
INNO
SE
EGC
PO
1
IEM
0.142
INNO
-0.420** .054
1
SE
-0.025
-0.003
0.110
1
EGC
0.265*
-0.009
-0.098
0.766** 1
1
Notices: **. Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2tailed). *. Correlation is significant at the 0.1 level (2-tailed). Africa (N=69) (15 countries for data from 2001-2016)
The results of correlation analysis for Europe showed in table 3. The table indicates that all the result between all the factors has a positive and significant relationship. The relationship between Rate of involvement of employees in entrepreneurial activities as Entrepreneurial factors and perceived opportunity as a cultural factor was found the highest between the two set of factors (0.303) at 1% level of significance. Further, the relationship between innovation and perceived opportunity was found also significant at 10% level. These results, therefore, accept the three proposed hypothesis of the study. Table 3: Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Europe Factor
PO
IEM
INNO
PO
1
IEM
0.303*** 1
INNO
0.091*
0.336*** 1
SE
0.135*
0.280*** 0.284***
EGC
0.268** 0.217*
0.096*
SE
EGC
1 0.314*** 1
Notices: ***. Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2tailed). **. Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2-tailed). *. Correlation is significant at the 0.1 level (2-tailed). Europe (N=143) (25 countries for data from 2001-2016)
Table 4 illustrates the correlation results for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Latin America and Caribbean. A promptly look into the table shows that the observed correlation coefficients are significant at 1 and 5 percent level. A significant relationship between the innovations as Entrepreneurial factor with all the factors of Culture. Nevertheless, the 119
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Where: PO= perceived Opportunity SE= High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs EGC= Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice IEM= Entrepreneurial Employee Activity INNO= Innovation
MANAGEMENT other factor of entrepreneurship (the Rate of involvement of employees in entrepreneurial activities) with other cultural factors has negative significant relationship. It is thus, the results confirming theoretical relationship among the study variables and accept the proposed hypothess. Table 4: Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Latin America and Caribbean. Factor
PO
PO
1
IEM
INNO
SE
IEM
0.147
1
INNO
0.199*
0.527**
SE
0.421** -0.317**
-0.241**
1
EGC
0.528** -0.246*
-0.196*
0.758** 1
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Factor
PO
IEM
INNO
SE
EGC
PO
1
IEM
0.071
INNO
0.770** 0.571
1
SE
0.612** 0.706
0.370
1
EGC
0.408
-0.011
0.806** 1
1
0.489
EGC Notices: **. Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2tailed). North America (N=26) (2 countries for data from 2001-2016)
1
Notices: *. Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2tailed). **. Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2-tailed). Latin America and Caribbean (N=159) (13 countries for data from 2001-2016)
The scenario looks a bit different with North America. In spite of the limitation of the less countries in this group, the results showed a significant relationship between the innovation and perceived opportunity as a factor of culture at 5% level of significance. The results are shown in table 5. The results depicts no relationship between entrepreneurship (INNO and IEM) and firm success (SE). However, a significant relationship between entrepreneurship (INNO) and culture (PO) has been found. Likewise, there is a significant relationship between culture (PO) and firm success (SE) (0.421) at 5% level of significance. The results, therefore, reject the first hypothesis and accept the second and the third hypothess of the study. On the other hand, the case of Oceana scenario is shown in table 6. A look into the table shows that there is insignificant relationship between the Cultural and Entrepreneurial factors. Based on the results, all the proposed hypothess are rejected in this scenario.
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Table 5 : Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for North America.
Table 6: Correlation matrix for the Cultural factors and Entrepreneurial factors for Oceana. Factor
PO
IEM
INNO
SE
PO
1
IEM
0.200
1
INNO
-0.125
0.191
1
SE
0.282
0.602
0.050
1
EGC
0.185
0.249
-0.323
-0.785**
EGC
1
Notices: **. Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2tailed). Oceana (N=18) (4 countries for data from 2001-2016) note some data are missing
6.2 Regression Results The observed correlation coefficient between the cultural factors and entrepreneurial factors shown in tables' 1-6 shows there is a low degree of collinearity. Therefore, the regression model 1, 2 and 3 will be considered for the analysis. The regression result of model 1 is shown in table 7 (and figure 1). The results in the table show almost all the cases has insignificant relationship between cultural factors and entrepreneurial factors in case of Asia, Africa, North America and Oceana. However, it has been found a significant relationship between PO and INN and; SE has the significant relationship with INN in Europe and Latin America & Caribbean. The reason behind these results goes to a limit data series for the factors under study and analysis and due to missing data. In case of Europe, the PO and EGC impact on INN was found 0.224 and -0.0266 at 1% and 5% level of significant respectively. Similarly, in the Latin America and Caribbean, the PO and SE effect July - August 2019
MANAGEMENT Table 7: Regression result of model 1, impact of PO, SE and EGC on INN Model (1)
Variables
Std. coefficients
t- statistic
P Value
Adj. R2
F-stat.
D-W stat.
ASIA
PO
0.124
0.857
0.394
0.016
0.588
2.043
SE
-0.181
-1.097
0.276
EGC
0.044
0.246
0.807
PO
-.433
-2.808
0.008
0.146
3.104
1.691
SE
-0.152
-0.838
0.408
EGC
0.056
0.307
0.761
PO
0.224
2.687
0.008
0.127
7.900***
2.417
SE
-0.004
-0.043
0.966
EGC
-0.266
-3.236
0.002
LATIN
PO
0.539
3.995
0.000
0.173
6.301***
1.954
AMERICA
SE
-0.384
-2.181
0.032
AND CARIBBEAN
EGC
0.002
0.013
0.990
NORTH AMERICA
PO
0.739
0.531
0.689
0.618
0.491
2.210
SE
1.070
0.420
0.747
EGC
-0.189
-0.086
0.945
PO
Insufficient length of data required for the analysis
SE
Data is not showing the impact, or faults output
AFRICA
EUROPE
OCEANA
EGC
on INN was found 0.539 and -.384 at 1% level of significant. The graphical representation of the table 7 can be demonstrated in Figure 1.
Model 2 measures the impact of cultural factors on entrepreneurial factors represented by Entrepreneurial Employee Activity (IEM) as a depended variable. The results of regression analysis are shown in table 8 (and figure 2). The results depict the significant impact between the study variable. For instance, in case of Africa the PO impact was found 0.526 at 1% level of significant. Similarly, the results of Europe and Latin America & Caribbean PO was found 0.554 and -0.556 respectively at 1% level of significance. Furthermore, the results shows a significant negative impact between SE and IEM in case of Latin America & Caribbean significant at 1% level.
Figure 1: Regression result of model 1. Impact of PO, SE and EGC on IEM July - August 2019
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Notes: Dependent Variable -INN *** indicates significant at 10% level. PO=perceived Opportunity, SE=High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs, EGC=Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice, INNO= Innovation
MANAGEMENT Table 8 : Regression result of model 2, impact of PO, SE and EGC on IEM Model (1)
Variables
Std. coefficients
t- statistic
P Value
Adj. R2
F-stat.
D-W stat.
ASIA
PO SE EGC
0.170 0.136 -0.100
1.154 0.758 -0.513
0.253 0.451 0.610
-0.007
0.851
1.677
AFRICA
PO SE EGC
0.526 0.097 -0.086
3.140 0.528 -0.460
0.004 0.602 0.649
0.189
3.334**
1.852
EUROPE
PO SE EGC
0.554 -0.002 -0.113
6.787 -0.026 -1.390
0.000 0.979 0.167
0.319
18.160*** 1.544
LATIN AMERICA AND CARIBBEAN
PO SE EGC
0.627 -0.556 -0.088
4.346 -2.912 -0.452
0.000 0.005 0.653
0.261
8.173***
NORTH AMERICA
PO
Insufficient length of data required for the analysis
SE
Data is not showing the impact, or faults output
1.553
EGC OCEANA
PO
Insufficient length of data required for the analysis
SE
Data is not showing the impact, or faults output
EGC Notes: Dependent Variable -IEM ** and *** indicates significant at 5% and 10% level respectively PO= perceived Opportunity, SE= High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs, EGC= Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice, IEM= Entrepreneurial Employee Activity
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The graphical representation of the table 8 can be demonstrated in Figure 2.
Figure 2: Regression result of model 2. Impact of PO, SE and EGC on IEM
In some cases, the no results have found. For example Oceana in Model 1 and 2. The same drawback has found in case of North America in Model 2. The reason may be due to insufficient observation or length of data required for the analysis Data is not showing the impact, or faults output. 122
The observed results of the two models, therefore, confirms the theoretical association between cultural factors and entrepreneurial factors. The observed adj. R2 and F-statistic are advocating in favour of the appropriateness of the regression model in some of the proposed cases i.e Europe, Latin America& Oceana in Model 1. In case of Model 2 it is noticed that the model is appropriate in case of Africa along with Europe, Latin America& Oceana. On the other hand, DW statistic indicates the reliability of the results in all the cases.The results of the impact of (PO) on (SE) are shown on table 9(and figure 3). The results shows bearing Oceana case, all the results are positive and significant. The coefficient of North America is found the highest with (0.612) significant at 1% level. Followed by Asia (0.562) significant at 1% level. Again, the observed adj. R2 and F-statistic are supporting the appropriateness of the regression model. Further, D-W statistic indicates the reliability of the results in all the cases. On the other hand, the observed adj. R2 and Fstatistic are advocating in favour of the appropriateness of the regression model.
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MANAGEMENT Table 9 : Regression result of model 3, impact of PO on SE. Model (1)
Variables
Std. coefficients
t- statistic
P Value
Adj. R2
F-stat.
D-W stat.
ASIA
PO
0.562
8.065
0.000
0.311
65.045*
1.920
AFRICA
PO
0.257
2.004
0.050
0.049
4.016**
2.111
EUROPE
PO
0.342
6.404
0.000
0.114
41.006*
1.840
LATIN AMERICA AND CARIBBEAN
PO
0.421
5.529
0.000
0.171
30.565*
2.169
NORTH AMERICA
PO
0.612
3.001
0.009
0.333
9.004*
1.943
OCEANA
PO
0.282
1.018
0.329
0.003
1.036
2.410
The graphical representation of table 9 is demonstrated at Figure 3.
Figure 3 : Regression result of model 3. Impact of PO on SE.
7. Concluding remarks In this paper an attempt has been made to find out the direction and the strength of relationship between the Cultural factor i.e. perceived Opportunity (PO), High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs(SE) and Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice (EGC) in one side and the Entrepreneurial factor Entrepreneurial Employee Activity (IEM) and Innovation (INNO) from the other side. Data were collected from Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) official website for 16 years starting from 2001 to 2016. Seventy-seven different counJuly - August 2019
tries have been considered for the analysis. In spite of the unbalanced data of the countries used for this analysis, the relationship between the variables is based on the same length and set of data for the same context. It is therefore, each part of the result speaks specifically on the context of the data drawn from. A correlation analysis was used to measure the relationship between the factors. The study came up with mixed results. For instance, the relationship between entrepreneurship and firm success was insignificant for Asia, Africa, North America and Oceana. However, a significant relationship between the same factors was in case of Europe and Latin America & Caribbean. The insignificant relationship could be due to the data series limitation considered for the study. The results shows a significant relationship between entrepreneurship (INNO and IEM) and culture (PO) in the case of Africa, Europe, Latin America & Caribbean and North America but the insignificant relationship was clear in case of Asia and Oceana. Likewise, the results showed a significant relationship between culture (PO) and firm success (SE) in Asia, Europe, Latin America & Caribbean and North America but not in case of Africa and Oceana. The results, thus accepts the first proposed hypothess in case of Europe and Latin America & Caribbean while reject in all the other cases. The second and third hypothess of the study was accepted in case of Europe, Latin America & Caribbean and North America but the both was rejected in case of Oceana. The second hypothess was rejected in Asia while accepted in case of Africa. The opposite situation was found with the third hypothess while it was 123
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Notes: Dependent Variable SE *, ** and *** indicates significant at 1%, 5% and 10% level respectively PO= perceived Opportunity, SE= High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs Notes: Dependent Variable -IEM ** and *** indicates significant at 5% and 10% level respectively PO= perceived Opportunity, SE= High Status to Successful Entrepreneurs, EGC= Entrepreneurship as a Good Career Choice, IEM= Entrepreneurial Employee Activity
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accepted in Asia and rejected in the case of Africa. At last, the Innovation as Entrepreneurial Factor has a significant relationship with perceived Opportunity as Cultural factor in almost all the cases considered in this study. Although in case of Asia and Oceana the results was insignificant, the positive relationship cannot be ignored which need further investigation with more data series and appropriate methodology. References: 1. Grilo, I., and Thurik, A.R. Determinants of entrepreneurial engagement levels in Europe and the US, Industrial and Corporate Change, 17(6), 11131145, (2008). 2. Parker, S. The Economics of Entrepreneurship, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, (2009). 3. Blanchflower, D. Self-employment in OECD countries, Labour Economics, 7, 471-505, (2000). 4. Van Stel, A. COMPENDIA: Harmonizing Business Ownership Data across Countries and over Time, International Entrepreneurship and Management Journal, 1(1), 105-123., (2005). 5. Wennekers, S. Entrepreneurship at Country Level; Economic and Non-Economic Determinants, Rotterdam: ERIM, (2006). 6. Audretsch, B. the entrepreneurial society. The Journal of Technology Transfer, 34(3):245-254, (2009). 7. Freytag, A., and Thurik, A.R. Entrepreneurship and culture, New York, Springer, (2010). 8. Wennekers, S., Van Stel, A., Thurik, R. and Reynolds, P. Nascent Entrepreneurship and the Level of Economic Development, Small Business Economics, 24, 293-309, (2005). 9. Suddle, K., Beugelsdijk, S., Wennekers, S., Entrepreneurial culture and its effect on the rate of nascent entrepreneurship. In: Freytag, A., Thurik, R. (Eds.), Entrepreneurship and Culture. Springer, 227-244, (2010). 10. Audretsch, B., and Meyer, S. Religion, Culture and Entrepreneurship in India, Indiana University, International Public Affairs Conference, (2009). 11. Thurik, A., Carree, M., van Stel, A., and Audretsch, D. Does self-employment reduce unemployment? Journal of Business Venturing, 23(6), 673-686, (2008). 12. Covin, J. and Slevin, D. Strategic management of small firms in hostile and benign environments, Strategic Management Journal 10(1): 75-87, (1989). 124
13. Oviatt, B. and McDougall, P. Toward a Theory of International New Ventures, Journal of International Business Studies, 25(1), 45-64, (1994). 14. Knight, G. Entrepreneurship and Marketing Strategy: The SME under Globalization, Journal of International Marketing, 8(2), pp. 12-32, (2000). 15. Zahra, S. A conceptual model of entrepreneurship as firm behavior: a critique and extension, Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, 17 (4), 5-21, (1993). 16. Jones, M. and Coviello N. Internationalisation: conceptualising an entrepreneurial process of behaviour in time, Journal of International Business Studies, 36, 284-303, (2005). 17. Rauch A, Wiklund J, Lumpkin G., Frese, M. Entrepreneurial orientation and business performance: an assessment of past research and suggestions for the future, Entrepreneurship Theory Practices, 33,761-787, (2009). 18. Roudini, A., and Osman, M. The Role of International Entrepreneurship Capability on International Performance in Born Global Firms, iBusiness, 4, 126-135, (2012). 19. Timmons J. New Venture Creation: entrepreneurship for the 21st century, Chicago, Irwin, (1994). 20. Morris, M., Williams, R., and Nel, D. Factors influencing family business succession, International Journal of Entrepreneurial Behaviour & Research, 2(3), 68-81, (1996). 21. Eisenhardt K., and Schoonhoven, C. Organizational growth: Linking founding team, strategy, environment, and growth among U.S. semiconductor ventures, 1978-1988, Administrative Science Quarterly, 35(3), 504-529, (1990). 22. Desai, A., and Hessels, J. Entrepreneurship, Economic Development, and Institutions, Small Business Economics, 31 (3), 219-234, (2008). 23. Agyapong, A., Ellis, F., and Domeher, D. Competitive strategy and performance of family businesses: moderating effect of managerial and innovative capabilities, Journal of Small Business & Entrepreneurship, 28 (6), 449-477, (2016). 24. Koryak, O., Mole, K., Lockett, A., Hayton, J., Ucbasaran, D., and Hodgkinson, G. Entrepreneurial leadership, capabilities and firm growth, International Small Business Journal,33(1), 89-105, (2015). 25. Lee C, Lee K, Pennings JM Internal capabilities, external network, and performance: A study on technology-based ventures, Strategic Management July - August 2019
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Journal, 22(6/7), 615-640, (2001). Mayer-Haug, K., Read, S., Brinckmann, J., Dew, N., & Grichnik, D. Entrepreneurial talent and venture performance: A meta-analytic investigation of SMEs, Research Policy, 42, 1251-1273, (2013). Kasseeah, H. The performance of small firms: Does formality matter?, Journal of Small Business & Entrepreneurship, 28(6), 431-448, (2016). Zahra, S. A. and George, G.. Absorptive capacity: A review, reconceptualization and extension, Academy of Management Review, (27), 185-203, (2002). Verweire, K., Van den Berghe, L. Integrated Performance Management. A Guide to Strategy Implementation, London: Sage Publications, (2004). Stevenson, H. and Jarillo, J. A paradigm of entrepreneurship - entrepreneurial management, Strategic Management Journal, 11: 17-27, (1990). Brown, T., Davidsson, P., and Wiklund, J. an operationalization of Stevenson's conceptualization of entrepreneurship as opportunity?based firm behavior, Strategic Management Journal 22(10): 953-968, (2001). Hamel, G. Leading the revolution, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, MA, (2000). Ireland, R., Hitt, M., and Sirmon, D. a model of strategic entrepreneurship: The construct and its dimensions, Journal of Management, 29(6), 963989, (2003). Lumpkin, G. and Dess, G. Clarifying the entrepreneurial orientation construct and linking it to performance, The Academy of Management Review, 21(1), 135-172, (1996). Zainol, F.A. and Ayadurai, S. Entrepreneurial Orientation and Firm Performance: The Role of Personality Traits in Malay Family Firms in Malaysia, International Journal of Business and Social Science, 2(1), 59-71, (2011). Henrekson, Magnus and Tino Sanandaji The Interaction of Entrepreneurship and Institutions, Journal of Institutional Economics, 7 (1), 47-75, (2010). Stephan, U., and Uhlaner, L. Performance-based vs socially supportive culture: A crossnational study of descriptive norms and entrepreneurship, Journal of International Business Studies, 41(8), 3471364, (2010).
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38. Akta?, E., Çiçek, I., & K?yak, M.. The Effect of Organizational Culture on Organizational Efficiency: The Moderating Role of Organizational Environment and CEO Values, Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 24, 1560-1573, (2011). 39. Wilkins, A. and Ouchi, W. Efficient cultures: exploring the relationship between culture and organizational performance, Administrative Science Quarterly, 28, 468-481, (1983). 40. Thibodeaux, M., and Favilla, E. Strategic management and organizational effectiveness in college of business, Journal of Education for Business, 70(4), 189-196, (1995). 41. Juechter, W., Caroline, F., and Alford, R. Five conditions for high performance cultures, Training and Development, 52(5), 63-67, (1998). 42. Eisenhardt K., and Schoonhoven, C. Organizational growth: Linking founding team, strategy, environment, and growth among U.S. semiconductor ventures, 1978-1988, Administrative Science Quarterly, 35(3), 504-529, (1990). 43. Simon, H. Hidden Champions: Lessons from 500 of the world's best unknown companies, Harvard Business School Press, (1996). 44. McDougall, P., Oviatt, B. and Shrader, R. A comparison of international and domestic new ventures, Journal of International Entrepreneurship, 1(1), 59-82, (2003). 45. McDougall, P. International versus domestic entrepreneurship: New venture strategic behavior and industry structure, Journal of Business Venturing, 4, 387-399, (1989). 46. Wright, R., and Ricks, D. Trends in International Business Research: Twenty-Five Years Later, Journal of International Business Studies, 25(4), 687-701, (1994). 47. Dana, Leo-Paul. ed. The Edward Elgar Handbook of Research on Indigenous Entrepreneurship, (2006). 48. Wennekers, S., Thurik, R. Linking Entrepreneurship and Economic Growth, Small Business Economics, 13, 27-55, (1999). ❑❑❑
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Commerce and chemistry: procurement / replacement of disperse dyestuffs In the cutthroat competition and ever-increasing costs of production, textile wet processing industry is really driven to the wall. For the survival, many processors try to cut down recipe costs by substituting existing products with "similar" products available at much cheaper price. This, many times results in reverse effect, i.e. instead of reducing, these products increase the cost due to reprocessing and corrections.
Dr. Kedar Kulkarni Kedar Kulkarni is currently working as Adjunct faculty in department of Fibres and Textile Processing, Institute of Chemical Technology. He has work experience of more than 15 years in various fields of textile wet processing industry, including sales, technical service, Quality assurance in textile auxiliaries, testing and production of pigment dispersions for textile printing, plastics and paints industry; trouble shooting and commissioning of wet processing machineries such as E-Control, MXL, stenters, sanforisation range, package dyeing machines etc. He has represented Institute of Chemical Technology in Ethiopia as a team leader in a project in which more than 25 industries were supported for technical as well as technological service to improve their export performance. Emil : kd_kulkarni@ictmumbai.ed.in
In polyester dyeing, as cost of disperse dyes constitutes a major share to the production cost, the "economy drive" starts right there. The dyer is influenced by claims of various suppliers who may not be the actual manufacturers. Under these conditions, dyers substitute existing dyestuffs thinking they are merely changing the product without affecting quality. Many times, this is based on the information provided by suppliers which may not be the whole picture. In the process, dyer is blissfully unaware of many other parameters which not only affects cost, but quality as well and thus, to achieve certain acceptable quality level, he has to re-process, which overshoots cost factor beyond acceptable limits. Thus, whatever is saved on the cost of dyestuff, is neutralized or rather overshadowed by processing cost. Such incidences are becoming increasingly frequent in recent years and dyers are becoming aware that commercial dyes with same basic chemical structure or C. I. number are not necessarily identical when it comes to application. Following are some of the parameters which influence dyeing properties of disperse dyes with identical structure: Degree of purity All disperse dyes available in market are in their commercial form i.e. not in pure chemical form. The purity of dye depends on the starting raw material as well as chemistry and manufacturing process. It also depends on the type and amount of standardizing agents / dispersants and other additives used. Thus, despite identical chemical constitution, dyes will have different dyeing properties. A simple TLC (thin layer chromatography) technique can be used to determine other additives present in the commercial dyes. Before incorporating new dye in the actual recipe, it is advisable to confirm the ingredients by TLC method.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Type and amount of dispersing agent Apart from purity, type of dispersant(s) used also influence the quality of final product. If two commercial disperse dyes are taken from different manufacturers and printed under identical conditions, the effective prints may vary in quality. In actual practice, two different yellow disperse dyes were printed and the prints were subjected to rubbing fastness test. It was observed that the in case of one sample, apart from browning of the prints, the rubbing fastness was also found to be poor due to the quality of dispersing agent used, although C.I. number of both dyes were identical. Particle size and particle size distribution Average particle size of a good disperse dye lies in the range of 1 Âą 0.5 Îźm. The particle size will affect the rate of adsorption and rate of diffu126
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Crystal Structure It has been proved by the research that commercial disperse dyes could be present in different crystal forms. The crystal form can influence solubility, rate of dyeing, saturation value, and rate of re-crystallization while cooling. Dispersion and dispersion stability This is one of the most important properties, which is essential for perfect dyeing and printing, especially in case of disperse dyes. Dispersion properties of disperse dyes can be estimated by various methods. Some of them are, A. Flow Test B. Speed of dispersiability C. Tarring test D. Dye-o-meter test It is interesting to note that the rate of dyeing is easily influenced by dispersion stabilities.A poor dispersion can lead to following problems ◆ Spots ◆ Slow rate of exhaustion ◆ Poor colour yield ◆ Unleveled dyeing ◆ Poor reproducibility ◆ Soiled dyeing machines Versatility This property is important for the process houses which apart from polyester also processes triacetate or acetate fibres. Also, some of the fabrics are made of combination of filament yarn and texturized yarns. In such cases, dyes which gives uniform dyeing are preferred. Commercial form In one of the experiments six chemically identical dyes of same strength but in liquid and granulated form were examined by Sandwich Migration Test. It was found that the commercial form also influences the migration behavior of dye. Finishing of Dyes Owing to their very poor solubility in water, disperse dyes are required to be very finely divided, readily dispersible and able to form stable dispersions, such dyes must therefore be given a special "finish". This July - August 2019
consists of various special treatments such as, ◆ Precipitation ◆ Filtration ◆ Grinding in presence to dispersing agent ◆ Drying The dyeing behavior of disperse dyes and the results of dyeing are influenced primarily by the quality of this finish. All dye manufacturers, therefore, strive continuously towards achieving improvements in this field. Dyes obtained as filter press cakes in synthesis are in the form of coarse crystals. Various grinders are used for grinding the press cakes and bring the dye into the form of a fine, uniform dispersion. The range of paricle size distribution varies according to the method by which the dye has been finished. In finishing disperse dyes, an attempt is also made to obtain a stable crystal modification right from the start because this guarantees better stability of the dispersion during dyeing. Such stable modification can be frequently produced by a heat treatment. General Considerations Commercial dyes for textile colouration are not sold as pure products but contain diluents such as common salt, glaubers salt, soda ash, phosphates, dextrins, dispersing agents etc. The nature and amount of additives present may affect the dyeing behavior of the dye. For this reason, the dyes of the same colour index number but form different manufactures may vary in terms of tinctorial strength on the substrate. The additives present in a commercial dye may alter the uptake of moisture according to the atmospheric conditions. There is also possibility of different amount of shading dyes in different deliveries which may lead to problems of built-up or fastness. Metameric effects between dyes of the same C.I. number but form different sources are also possible. These factors must be carefully studied where product substitution based on price alone is attempted. Inadequate evaluation may lead to severe financial penalties resulting from increased matching costs and additions, stripping and re-dyeing, lower quality and reduced machine utilization that would often far outweigh the benefits. Main purpose of this article is to make a dyer aware that commercial disperse dyes based on chemically identical structures need not produce exactly same results when used for dyeing under identical conditions. Thus, substitution merely based on chemical constitution alone may lead to a greater risk from quality as well as costing point of view. ❑❑❑ 127
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sion. Thus, the rate of dyeing and yield at the end of dyeing cycle may vary from dyestuff to dyestuff though these are chemically identical. Distribution of particle size is also important. It should be distributed over a very narrow range. The larger particles may act as seeds which may lead to aggregation, agglomeration and ultimately precipitation while cooling at the end of dyeing cycle. This will impair the fastness properties.
TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. The previous chapter was based upon various syntheses of graphene quantum dots (GQDs); a new class of fluorescent carbon materials, which have attracted tremendous attention due to their outstanding properties and potential applications in biological, optoelectronic, and energy-related fields. Therein, top-down and bottom-up strategies for the fabrication of GQDs, mainly containing oxidative cleavage, the hydrothermal or solvothermal method, the ultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted process, electrochemical oxidation, controllable synthesis, and carbonization from small molecules or polymers, were briefly discussed. The present chapter puts some insights upon various potential applications of graphene quantum dots (GQDs). These flat 0D nanomaterials have attracted increasing interest because of their exceptional physico-chemical properties and novel applications in energy conversion and storage, electro/photo/chemical catalysis, flexible devices, sensing, display, bioimaging. The significant advances in the recent years are summarized with comparative and balanced discussion.
Chapter 15 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : Graphene Quantum Dots (Part-II) Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli
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Graphene quantum dots (GQDs) are graphene nanoparticles with a size less than 100 nm. Due to their exceptional properties such as low toxicity, stable photoluminescence, chemical stability and pronounced quantum confinement effect, GQDs are considered as a novel material for biological, opto-electronics, energy and environmental applications. GQDs consist of one or a few layers of graphene and are smaller than 100 nm in size. They are chemically and physically stable, have a large surface to mass ratio and can be dispersed in water easily due to functional groups at the edges. Quantum confinement effects lead to a bright fluorescence emission that might depend on the pH, when GQDs are dispersed in water. Their electronic structure depends sensitively on the crystallographic orientation of their edges, for example zigzag-edge GQDs with 7-8 nm diameters show a metallic behavior. In general, their energy gap decreases, when the number of graphene layers or the number of carbon atoms per graphene layer is increased. The extensive properties of GQDs (and functionalized GQDs) would benefit many applications in a variety of 128
fields. Much research has been carried out to understand the unique properties of GQDs and tailoring its properties using different techniques, such as doping, controlling of size/shape and developing composite material and so forth. In the next decade, GQDs may become a popular material for advanced technology. They are already being exploited in a number of applications, such as biological imaging, drug delivery, photodetector, LEDs and battery etc. This section will present the current applications of GQDs in medical, optical and energy-related fields. Potential applications of GQDs Sensors The interaction between GQDs and certain substances can cause fluorescent intensity of the GQDs to be reduced. According to this principle, a variety of chemical or biological sensors can be designed to detect heavy metal ions, small organic or inorganic molecules, biological molecules, etc. For instance, Wang et al. made use of GQDs to detect Fe3+ ions. It is found that Fe3+ ions have a significant impact on the fluorescence intensity of GQDs because of the special complexation between Fe3+ ions and the phenolic hydroxyl groups of July - August 2019
TEXNOTE
Moreover, GQDs have excellent electrical conduction ability, good dispersibility, and a large specific surface area, and is advantageous for the biological molecules to load on its surface. Therefore, Shehabab et al. utilized a simple route to prepare GQDs via glucose carbonization for a non-enzymatic glucose sensor. GQDs functionalized with phenyl boronic acid (PBA) receptors were employed as a sensing material. The developed sensor has a linear response to glucose over a concentration range of 4-40 mm with a correlation coefficient of 0.97 and a low detection limit of approximately 3.0 mm. The fluorescence enhancement after the addition of PBA is caused by the coupled effect between the conjugated aromatic rings of the GQDs and PBA functional groups. Maleimide-functionalized GQDs (M-GQDs) were synthesized and deployed for bio-thiol (cysteine, homocysteine, or glutathione) recognition following the principle of Michael addition. The M-GQDs probe is found to be highly sensitive and selective toward bio-thiol detection in the nano-molar range in aqueous solution and at a physiological pH (7.0). Moreover, a fluorescence immunoassay sensor was fabricated to detect immunoglobulin-G (Ig-G), based on the fluorescence resonance energy transfer mechanism. Besides, Zhang et al. fabricated a nanofibrous membrane of GQDs by electrospinning water-soluble GQDs with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) directly. For the first time, the created PVA/GQD nanofibrous membrane was utilized to fabricate dual-purpose fluorescent and electrochemical biosensors for the highly sensitive determination of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and glucose. The experimental results indicated that the fluorescence intensity of the nanofibrous membrane decreased linJuly - August 2019
early with increasing H2O2 concentration because the addition of H2O2 leads to fluorescence quenching of the GQDs. After binding glucose oxidase onto the created nanofibrous membrane, the fabricated nanofibrous membrane showed high sensitivity and selectivity for glucose detection. In addition, the PVA/ GQD nanofibrous membrane can also be directly electrospun onto an electrode for the electrochemical detection of H2O2. This novel nanofibrous membrane exhibits excellent catalytic performance and fluorescence activity and, therefore, has potential applications for the highly stable, sensitive, and selective detection of H2O2 and glucose. In the work of Lin et al., photoluminescent GQDs (25 nm) have been used for the first time as molecule like building blocks to construct self-assembled hybrid materials for label-free biosensors. Ionic self-assembly of disc-shaped GQDs and charged biopolymers is found to generate a series of hierarchical structures that exhibit aggregation-induced fluorescence quenching of the GQDs and change the protein/polypeptide secondary structure. The integration of GQDs and biopolymers via self-assembly offers a flexible toolkit for the design of label-free biosensors in which the GQDs serve as fluorescent probes, and the biopolymers provide a biological function. This work indicates that the integrative self-assembly of biomolecules and GQDs will open up new avenues for the design of multifunctional biomaterials with combined optoelectronic properties and biological applications. The design of a novel functional peptide molecule was reported by Li et al., which has the abilities to form peptide nanofibers (PNFs) and recognize with GQDs and GO nanosheet specifically. Based on the design of peptide sequence, the ternary GQD-PNF-GO nanohybrids are successfully synthesized. It is found that the GQDPNF-GO nanohybrids show potential applications for high performance electrochemical hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) biosensor. Such fabricated biosensor exhibits high sensitivity and selectivity, low detection limit, and wide linear range for sensing H2O2. The strategies shown in this work will benefit the further creation of functional binary and ternary nanomaterials, as well as the understanding of their self-assembly and formation mechanisms. Significantly, Ju et al. synthesized highly blue-luminescent nitrogen-doped graphene quantum dots (N-GQDs) by a facile one-step hydrothermal treatment of citric acid and dicyandiamide. A quantum yield (QY) as high 129
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the GQDs. When the concentration of Fe3+ ions in the solution arrive to 80 ppm, the fluorescence of GQDs is quenched. However, other metal ions with the same concentration have little impact on the fluorescence intensity. It shows that the GQD-based sensors to Fe3+ ions are highly selective. Fan et al. investigated using GQDs to detect trinitrotoluene (TNT) in solution, based on the fluorescent quenching of GQDs by TNT. It demonstrates that TNT is adsorbed on the surface of the GQDs by a p-p interaction, and fluorescence resonance energy transfer is caused by molecular dipoledipole interaction within a certain distance, reducing the fluorescence intensity of GQDs. Li et al. designed a new type of electrochemical fluorescent sensors to test Cd2+ ions, taking advantage of the electrochemical fluorescence emission properties of the GQDs.
TEXNOTE
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as 32.4% is achieved at an excitation wavelength of 350 nm. It is found that such N-GQDs with a high QY can be used as efficient fluorescent probes for the detection of glutathione (GSH). In the detection, the photoluminescence (PL) intensity of the N-GQDs could be quenched by mercuric ions due to the strong electrostatic interaction and electron transfer between NGQDs and Hg (II). Upon the addition of GSH, the PL intensity of N-GQDs can be recovered owing to the preferred combination of Hg (II) and GSH by forming Hg (II)-S bond. Under optimal conditions, this fluorescence turn-on sensing system exhibits excellent sensitivity and selectivity for GSH determination with a detection limit of 87 nM. Importantly, the N-GQDs-Hg (II) system can be successfully applied for visualizing the intracellular GSH in live HeLa cells due to bright luminescence, low cytotoxicity, and good biocompatibility. Furthermore, they designed a novel colorimetric sensor for more sensitive detection of GSH based on the intrinsic peroxidase-like activity of Ag nanoparticles supported on the nitrogen-doped graphene quantum dots (Ag NPs-NGQDs). The Ag NPs-N-GQDs nanocomposites can catalyze the oxidation of 3,3'5,5'tetramethylbenzidine (TMB) to oxTMB with the presence of H2O2 along with a visual color variation. As GSH can reduce oxTMB, the UV-vis absorption intensity of oxTMB shows a strong dependence on the concentration of GSH. The novel Ag NPs-NGQDsTMB-H2O2 system exhibits more high sensitivity and selectivity for the detection of GSH with a lower detection limit of 31 nM and a wide detection linear range of 0.1-157.6 mM. This novel sensor system shows great potential application for GSH detection in blood serum sample and easy-to-make analytical approaches in the future. Bio-imaging GQDs have a potential application in the field of bioimaging because of their excellent fluorescence properties and the low cytotoxicity. GQDs were applied in cell imaging of human breast cancer cell line MCF-7 by Dong et al. The work shows that the cell membrane, cytoplasm, and nucleus can be marked with fluorescence by GQDs. It is the first time that the fluorescent carbon material has been used as fluorescent tags for a cell nucleus. As we know, there had been no direct effective technology for imaging of stem cells for a long time, due to the particularity of the stem cells. It is significant that GQDs were used in imaging of stem cells by Zhang et al. in order to solve this problem. Three dif130
ferent kinds of stem cells were cultivated with GQDs, and the results showed that GQDs can smoothly enter into the stem cells. It was found that GQDs were not observed in the nucleus, indicating that it will not cause genetic disruption of the stem cells. It showed that GQDs had relatively low cytotoxicity. In contrast, when stem cells were mixed with CdS quantum dots, it soon died, due to the toxicity of the heavy metals Cd2+. Such approach demonstrates the distinctive advantages of GQDs for direct and efficient stem cell labeling, opening up great opportunities for their biomedical applications. Wang et al. reported the first realization of the industrial-scale production of high-quality fluorescent GQDs via a molecular fusion route from a low-cost, active derivative of pyrene. The as-prepared GQDs show superior optical properties including strong excitonic absorption bands extending to ~530 nm, bright PL at 510 nm with a quantum yield of up to 42%, and a wide PL spectrum. The GQDs are applied as biological fluorescent probes for visualizing and targeting the Golgi apparatus in HeLa and MCF-7 live cells. The low-cost mass production, excellent biocompatibility, and superior optical properties make the GQDs an attractive alternative probe for efficient Golgi-targeted imaging in biomedical applications. Ge et al. presented a new photodynamic therapy (PDT) agent based on GQDs that can produce singlet oxygen via a multistate sensitization process, resulting in a quantum yield of 1.3, the highest reported for PDT agents. The GQDs also exhibit a broad absorption band spanning the UV region and the entire visible region and a strong deep-red emission. Through in vitro and in vivo studies, they demonstrate that GQDs can be used as PDT agents, simultaneously allowing imaging and providing a highly efficient cancer therapy. This work may lead to a new generation of carbon-based nanomaterial PDT agents with overall performance superior to conventional agents in terms of quantum yield, water dispersibility, photo- and pH-stability, and biocompatibility. In the work of Su et al., the design of a peptide with tri-functional motifs is reported as the precursor building block for constructing a novel multifunctional protein nanofiber (PNF) and further conjugated with highly fluorescent GQDs by non-covalent interactions. The GQDs essentially maintain their favorable optical properties in the PNF-GQD nanohybrids. A good biocompatibility of the PNF-GQD nanohybrids is found July - August 2019
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Drug delivery There have been reports that graphene or graphenebased nanomaterials are utilized as carriers for delivery of drugs to improve the delivery efficiency or offer benefits in the therapeutic effect. Compared to graphene, GQDs have the better water solubility, lower cytotoxicity, and larger specific surface area, and also can combine with a variety of compounds through the intermolecular p-p interaction. Therefore, GQDs are the more effective carriers or loaders of drug molecules. For instance, a biocompatible and cell traceable drug delivery system based on GQD, for the targeted delivery of the DNA-intercalating drug doxorubicin (DOX) to cancer cells, was reported by Iannazzo et al. The GQDs were covalently linked to the tumor-targeting module biotin (vitamin K or vitamin B7), able to efficiently recognize biotin receptors over-expressed on cancer cells by means of a strategically designed cleavable linker, which can be specifically activated inside cells. The therapeutic agent used in this study, DOX, was loaded to the GQD surface, taking advantage of the excellent absorption properties of carbon nanomaterials, by p-p interaction. Moreover, the inherent fluorescence allowed the drug release to be tracked. This study has designed a new biocompatible and celltraceable drug delivery system, able to release the therapeutic agent to cancer cells in a selective manner and minimize the anticancer drug systemic toxicity and undesirable side effects, typically associated with conventional chemotherapy. In the study of Ghanbari et al., blue fluorescent nitrogen-doped GQDs (N-GQDs) were synthesized by a hydrothermal method via pyrolysis of citric acid as the carbon source and urea as the nitrogen source. For the first time, the N-GQDs have been loaded with the anticancer drug, methotrexate (MTX), to prepare the MTX-(N-GQDs) as an efficient drug delivery system. The in vitro cytotoxicity of the MTX-(N-GQDs) on human breast cancer cells investigated suggests that the drug-free N-GQDs nanocarriers are highly biocompatible, whereas the MTX-loaded ones are more cytotoxic than the free MTX. This research confirms July - August 2019
the accomplishment of GQDs as nanocarriers to prolong the cytotoxic effects of its loaded drug for the better killing of cancer cells. Significantly, a size-changeable GQD nanoaircraft (SCNA) that served as a hierarchical tumor-targeting agent with a high cargo payload was developed to penetrate and deliver an anticancer drug into deep tumors. The nanoaircraft is composed of ultrasmall GQDs (less than 5 nm) functionalized with a pH-sensitive polymer that demonstrates an aggregation transition at a weak acidity of the tumor environment but is stable at physiological pH with stealth function. A size conversion of the SCNA at the tumor site is further actuated by near-infrared irradiation, which disassembles 150 nm of SCNA into 5 nm of DOX/GQD like a bomb-loaded jet, facilitating the penetration into the deep tumor tissue. At the tumor, the penetrated DOX/GQD can infect neighboring cancer cells for repeated cell killing. Such an SCNA integrated with combinational therapy successfully suppresses xenograft tumors in 18 days without distal harm. This work presents a sophisticated strategy, which displays the hierarchically targeted and penetrated delivery of drugs and energy to deep tumor and shows potential for use in other tumor therapies. Solar cells Solar cells are one of the hot research topics in the field of clean energy. The major factor for the use of GQDs in solar cells is the size-dependent band gap tuning property. The GQDs have very attractive benefits for applications in solar cells compared with other materials such as silicon and perovskite, mainly because of better dispersion, the band gap which can be regulated, high chemical stability, and low toxicity. Additionally, GQDs have the quantum confinement effect and edge effect, well suited to solar cells. To date, many kinds of GQD-based solar cells have been reported, such as the use of hole transport layer (HTL) material, silicon/GQD hetero-junction solar cell, semiconductor/GQD solar cell, and conductive polymerdoped GQD solar cell. Most researchers have focused on the use of GQDs as an electron-hole transfer material and as a tuner of the band gap. In the work of Li et al. derived from double-walled CNTs, GQDs with a uniform size distribution were prepared through solution chemistry. The GQDs in chlorobenzene exhibit bright blue emission upon UV excitation. The introduction of the GQDs into a bulk heterojunction polymer solar cell (PSC) based on poly(3131
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
with cell viability assays. With both a recognition moiety (RGD) and an imaging probe (GQD), these PNFGQD nanohybrids possess the capability of targeting and imaging tumor cells simultaneously. It demonstrates that GQD-decorated PNF nanohybrids have great potential as multifunctional platforms for biomedical applications, particularly, where the capability of sensitive tracking and efficient labeling is appreciated.
TEXNOTE hexylthiophene):(6,6)-phenyl-C61 butyric acid methyl ester (P3HT:PCBM) results in a significant enhancement of the power conversion efficiency (PCE). The efficiency can be further improved by adjusting the PCBM content in the active layer, reaching a maximum PCE of 5.24%. This ternary system based on blended P3HT:PCBM:GQDs represents a new method to enhance the efficiency of PSC. This work expands the application of GQDs to PSC devices.
Bibliography
Kundu et al. reported an enhanced PCE of 11.7% ± 0.2 and a fill factor (FF) of 71% for dye-sensitized solar cells (DSSC) with an active area of 0.16 cm2 after modifying the TiO2 photoanode with size-selective (ca. 2 nm) N,F,S-codoped GQDs (NFS-GQDs), which exhibit a PL quantum yield of 70%. An upward shift in the Fermi level has been observed, perhaps responsible for the improved performance along with the possibility of preventing the back electron transfer from TiO2. This work indicates that the incorporation of size controlled, hetero atom-doped GQDs can enhance the efficiency of DSSCs, enabling more optoelectronic applications.
4.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Besides the above applications, research has progressed step by step until now, and the GQDs are applied in materials or various complex devices, such as catalysts, photovoltaic devices, LEDs, lithium ion batteries, super-capacitors, photodetectors, tissue-engineering materials, etc. Summary Graphene Quantum Dots (GQDs) are becoming imperative functional materials that can find wide applications in medical, optical and energy related fields. Since the discovery of graphene, limited progress on the application of graphene has been achieved. It was understood that this is due to some practical problems of graphene, such as zero band gap and low absorptivity and so forth. The development of GQDs has therefore become an important catalyst for the application of graphene. Undoubtedly, this has led to significant research efforts in GQDs. However, understanding of the mechanism in some of the GQDs applications remains unclear and requires further investigations. Nevertheless, this area of research has received much attention by researchers due to the enormous benefits of the GQDs can bring in the different applications. Additionally; further researches for potential applications are also important and must be paid more attention, besides the fundamental studies. 132
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Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K. Morozov S. V., Jiang D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. A. and Firsov A. A., Science, 306, 666-669, (2004). Tian P., Tang L., Teng K. S. and Lau S. P., Materials today chemistry, 10, 221-258, (2018). Pan D., Zhang J., Li Z. and Wu M., Advanced materials, 22, 734-738, (2010). Wu Z. L., Gao M. X., Wang T. T., Wan X. Y., Zheng L. L. and Huang C. Z., Nanoscale, 6, 3868-3874, (2014). Ritter K. A. and Lyding J. W., Nature materials, 8, 235-242, (2009). Liu H., Na W., Liu Z., Chen X. and Su X., Biosensors and Bioelectronics, 92, 229-233, (2017). Gao S., Tang L., Xiang J., Ji R., Lai S. K., Yuan S. and Lau S. P., New Journal of Chemistry, 41, 10447-10451, (2017). Li M., Wu W., Ren W., Cheng H. M., Tang N., Zhong W. and Du Y., Applied physics letters, 101, 103107, (2012). Wu D., Liu Y., Wang Y., Hu L., Ma H., Wang G. and Wei Q., Scientific reports, 6, 20511, (2016). Van Tam T., Hur S. H., Chung J. S. and Choi W. M., Sensors and Actuators A: Physical, 233, 368373, (2015). Guo J., Zhu H., Sun Y., Tang L. and Zhang X., Journal of Materials Chemistry A, 4, 4783-4789, (2016). Wang D., Wang L., Dong X., Shi Z. and Jin J., Carbon, 50, 2147-2154, (2012). Shehab M., Ebrahim S. and Soliman M., Journal of Luminescence, 184, 110-116, (2017). Lin Y., Chapman R. and Stevens M. M., Advanced functional materials, 25, 3183-3192, (2015). Li Y., Zhang W., Zhang L., Li J., Su Z. and Wei G., Advanced Materials Interfaces, 4, 1600895, (2017). Ju J., Zhang R., He S. and Chen W., RSC Advances, 4, 52583-52589, (2014). Khodadadei F., Safarian S. and Ghanbari N., Materials Science and Engineering: C, 79, 280285, (2017). Li F., Kou L., Chen W., Wu C. and Guo T., NPG Asia Materials, 5, e60, (2013). ❑❑❑ July - August 2019
UNIT ACTIVITY
The Textile Association (India) TAI - M.P. Unit Budget Debate, Organized by TAI-MP Mill owner association MP Mill store Merchant association and spinners club on date 06-07-2019 at Jall Auditorium Various dignitaries were present in board room of Jall Auditorium on date 6th July 2019 for the debate on Union Budget 2019. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Jayantilal Lal Bhandari (Chairman of Debate) C.A. Subhash Desh Panday C.A. Sunil Jain C.A. Ajit Jain Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari C.A. Bal want Parmar
Program stated by "LampLighting" jointly by Hon. Speakers Secretary TAI, Shri M.C. Rawat Ji, Shri R.P. Gautam Ji & Dr. R.K. Dutta Ji. Dr. Jayntilal Bhandari opened the debate with his comment that "This budget is for poor &low-income growth
people" He also mentioned about increase in Petroleum products was inevitable for Govt. He expressed his supported Govt. for good Roads and farmers related initiatives. Subhashdesh Panday and C.A. Sunil Jain explained about Income Tax changes and aftereffects on industries.C.A. Ajit Jain expressed his prospects in the stock market and cautioned the audience about the selection of shares performing well. C.A. Balawant Parmar summarized the thoughts of allspeakers. At last Shri Ashok Veda president vote of thanks to all speakers and dignitaries presented including some suggestions. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
GST rates of some essential communities should be revised to boost of Industries. Only 2 slabs of GST are sufficient for making easy. There should not be Income Tax on permission & individual working women up to 10 lacks. Medical treatment should be affordable to lowincome groups. Pension should be provided to all including those who had subscribed Income Tax in his life.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
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NEWS
7th China Homelife India & China Machinex India 2019 are expected to come to the 2019 edition. The show focuses on increasing trade and building sustainable relationships between Chinese and Indian companies and it also takes place in 12 other countries every year under the 'One Belt One Road' initiative of Government of China. (Other countries are: Poland, South Africa, Egypt, Turkey, Kazakhstan, Nigeria, Brazil, Mexico, UAE, Jordan, Iran, and Kenya)
India's largest China sourcing products expo 7th China Homelife and China Machinex is being organized from 11th to 13th of December 2019 at Hall no. 1, 2 and 3 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Nesco Complex, W.E. Highway, Goregaon East, Mumbai from 10am to 6pm. It is organized by Meorient International Shanghai and managed by MCO Winmark Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd, Mumbai. This event is approved by the International Exhibition Association UFI Paris and appears in their list of major international exhibitions in the world.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
These twin exhibitions will be displaying over 30,000 products from various sectors as follows: Homelife: Furniture, Textile & Garments, Home Appliances, Household items, Gift Articles, Luggage Bags and many more sectors Machinex: Building Materials, Hardware and Tools, Lighting, Auto Parts, Electric, Machinery and various other sectors. All products are innovative and of latest technology. With almost 2000 exhibitors, it is the largest B2B sourcing China show in India. Over 25,000 business visitors
China Homelife and China Machinexbrings together thousands of buyers and Chinese manufacturers in one place within 3 days. It enables visitors to see large numbers of products at the same time, to evaluate and compare them, to attend demonstrations and ask detailed questions. Confederation of India Industry (CII)are the National Partner who will organize a day concurrent conference on 11th December on how the business with India and China is progressing and avenues for Joint Ventures, Cooperation's, FDI etc. It is also being supported by other Industry associations such as The Textile Association (India), Bombay Industry Association, Indian Chamber of International Business, Global Textile Welfare Associationand many more. For more information and Registration, please contact: Devisha Patra Project Manager MCO Winmark Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd. B-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency-1, Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn.,Santacruz (W), Mumbai - 400054. M.: +91 8424018401 Tel.; 022 26605550 E-mail: devisha.winmark@gmail.com
A.T.E. joins hands with Godrej & Boyce A.T.E. joins hands with Godrej & Boyce Mfg. Co. Ltd. to offer material handling and warehouse management solutions to the Indian textile industry Textile mills face a number of issues with the movement of raw materials such as cotton, yarn, and fabric 134
from one department or machine, or floor to another. Not only does the transportation of materials consume time and resources, but there are also various challenges in ensuring that material is handled safely, efficiently, and economically without compromising the production targets. July - August 2019
NEWS ◆ reduce manpower ◆ increase the speed of material movement ◆ improve productivity ◆ minimise production cost ◆ increase handling capacity ◆ ensure safety
Godrej & Boyce is India's largest manufacturer of lift trucks. Its product range includes electric, LPG, and diesel counterbalanced forklifts (up to 25 tonne capacity), warehouse trucks, and other trucks for specific applications. They also design and manufacture attachments for addressing a wide range of special handling applications. A.T.E., a single window solution provider across the textile value chain with 80 years of experience, is an expert in providing high quality, end-to-end solutions to the Indian textile industry. The partnership between A.T.E. and Godrej & Boyce Mfg. Co. Ltd. will immensely benefit the Indian textile industry to meet the material handling and warehouse management challenges head-on, gaining a sustainable competitive advantage in their businesses.
Recognising this need, A.T.E. has tied up with Godrej & Boyce Mfg. Co. Ltd. (Material Handling Division) to provide effective solutions for material handling and warehouse management. This will help textile mills:
For more information, please contact: Vianca Damani Senior Officer, Corporate Communication A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited M: +91-96629 71963 T: +91-22-2285 2677 E-mail: v_b_damani@ateindia.com Website: www.ategroup.com
Colorjet Launch its 16 Heads Vastrajet
Following the success of highest selling textile printer i.e. Vastrajet®-8824, ColorJet came up with its new Vastrajet®-8164 with 16 heads and launched at Gartex TexProcess India, 2019.
ColorJet India Ltd, India's largest manufacturer of digital textile printing technologies showcased live demonstrations of India's most preferred direct to fabric printer, July - August 2019
ColorJet India Ltd, India's largest manufacturer of digital textile printing technologies showcased live demonstrations of India's most preferred direct to fabric printer, the Vastrajet® onreactive inks for fashion apparel producersin Hall-11, Booth-C-33, at 'Gartex Texprocess India' at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. 135
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the Vastrajet® on reactive inks for fashion apparel producersin Hall-11, Booth-C-33, at 'Gartex Texprocess India' at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.
NEWS Following the success of highest selling textile printer i.e.Vastrajet®-8824, ColorJetcame up with its newVastrajet®-8164 with 16 heads and launched at GartexTexProcess India,2019. The versatile, advanced, high speed direct to fabric printer has the ability to become the commercial winner by providing users with outstanding performance,increased productivity, superior printing accuracy with minimal maintenance needs. The Commercial WinnerVastrajet®-8164 comes with the latest technological innovation from ColorJet -AiS™ i.e. Adaptive Ink System and AIVC™ i.e. Automatic Intelligent Voltage Controller. The ColorJet- AiS™ provides the customer flexibility to use ink of its own choice to fulfill multiple purposes without compromising quality, by providing consistent print performance at varying environmental conditions with the help of AIVC™. "ColorJet has taken huge efforts to imprint a mark in the hearts of customers not only by providing excelling innovative products but by backing them up with excellent aftersales support," said Jitender Pal Singh, (VPTextile), ColorJet India Limited. As per the latest IDC report with more than 34% market share in India, which has the second fastest growing digital textile printing industry, ColorJet gears
up to command a strong position in the textile industry globally and maintains its No.1 position in India as per the latest IDC 2019 Q1 Super Wide Format report, while assiduously pursuing excellence in digital printing industry since 2004. About ColorJet India Ltd: ColorJet India Ltd, the largest manufacturer of digital inkjet printers in India, markets its products in 25 countries worldwide. Over 4,000 ColorJet printers are in operation around the world, across India, Middle East, Australia and Europe and the company keeps its presence strong, by exhibiting at various international platforms like ITMA Asia, Shanghaitex, DTG- Bangladesh, ITMA-Barcelona, etc. For more information please visit:www.colorjetgroup.com. Media Contacts: Ms. Kareena Choudhary Marketing Manager ColorJet India Limited Cell: +91 99100-90306 Email: kareena@ColorJetgroup.com Arun Rao Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Denim Talks Highlights Global Fashion Brand Perspectives in Line With Circular Fashion From fashion conscious to conscious fashion - the 2nd edition of Denim Talks was all about bringing denim industry in line with circular fashion. The one-day forum which took place at the Denim Show at GartexTexprocess India in New Delhi witnessed fashion and industry leaders sharing insights, experiences and global perspectives to keep the Indian denim industry on top of the game, sustainable and globally competitive. Denim apparel is one of the fastest growing segments in the Indian apparel market, with a double digit growth forecast. During the recent Denim Talks held in the capital, industry stakeholders including fashion brands such as Pepe Jeans, Jack & Jones, Mandhana Retail Ventures Ltd. (Being Human Clothing), Raymond UCO Denim, Reliance Industries, Ginni International among 136
others came together with Denim Manufacturers' Association to discuss the potential of denim, its prospective application areas, possible alternatives and how Indian denim industry can get in line with sustainability and circular fashion.
Denim Report Launch July - August 2019
NEWS more sustainable, much larger than any other segment in the fashion sector highlighting the significant role of the denim industry in bringing circularity and sustainability in fashion.
Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Product Manager - Jack & Jones, (Bestseller India)
On the sidelines of Denim Talks, Mr. Sharad Jaipuria, President, Denim Manufacturers' Association& CMD, Ginni International Ltd shared "Indian denim industry currently stands at USD 3.6 billion, and has been growing at a CAGR of 9% over the last five years. The industry is expected to grow at CAGR of 11% in the next five years. The steady growth is credited to the rise in consumerism, bridging luxury gap and advancements in denim fashion which have given the segment a major boost. Fashion industry globally is perceived as less environment friendly, and denim manufacturers today must take the lead in embracing sustainability which needs to be imbibed in the entire textile value chain."
The speakers at the forum delved deeper into what it means to bring sustainable fashion with denim and the potential of Indian market for sustainable clothing. Already working in this sphere through her international brand Doodlage, Ms Kriti Tula, Co-Founder & Creative Director remarked: "Fashion is a 3trillion USD industry. Only 2% is getting recycled today. We need to have brands that talk about the impact of fashion. The Indian market for fashion conscious accounts to 440 million millennials, which accounts for almost 34% of India."
Ms. Kriti Tula, Co-Founder & Creative Director, Doodlage
When it comes to fashion apparels and garment segment, denim is the biggest rage in India and globally, and the Indian denim industry has sharply capitalised by moving forward with innovative fashion trends. But while fashion dominates the production, the forum played an important role in highlighting Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and raw material alternatives for denim industry with Bombay Hemp as one such company working towards bringing Hemp as a sustainable substitute into focus. 35% of the jeans today are made July - August 2019
Denim-wrapped Car@GartexTexprocess India
Mr. Ravikant Prakash, Design Head- India, Arvind Ltd, "I have seen a great change in buying preferences of consumers. While trends definitely dominate choices, consumers today also want to see a story - where has the garment come from, what processes has it under137
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The forum,which brought together a delegation of 99 professionals, also saw the unveiling of a denim industry report by its Knowledge Partner - Wazir Advisors who indicated:"In five years, we are expecting denim consumption to almost double. India's denim fabric exports have increased at a CAGR of five percent in last six years to reach USD 410 million." Bangladesh over the last decade has been the biggest market for Indian denim fabric with a 50%+ share in India's exports for six years running, highlighted the report.
NEWS gone, how has the brand integrated sustainability and so on. Denim is one fabric where reusing makes it more beautiful and that's a trend that will stay on." With India standing as the second largest manufacturer in this sector, denim brands are keeping an eye on the domestic and global trends of the fashion-conscious consumer. Out of 51 mills in India, 34 were present at the Denim Show making it the largest denim industry show of its kind. Besides the exhibition and summit, the organisers also unveiled a denim-wrapped car as a star attraction together with denim guitar, handbags and several utility products at the trend zone highlight-
ing diverse denim applications that the industry can focus on. As brands gear up to design the future of denim, the Denim Talks will continue its focus on bringing domestic and global trends to the fore with the next edition slated at the Denim Show at GartexTexprocess India in March 2020 in the fashion-capital - Mumbai. Press information and photographic material: www.gartexindia.com Links to websites:www.facebook.com/GARTEXDELHI
EvoQuench PA POY systems destined for China Polyamide (PA) microfiber yarns Oerlikon Barmag recently signed contracts for two orders with a total of 120 spinning positions for manufacturing polyamide POY yarn with Chinese yarn manufacturers. What makes this so special is the fact that all positions will be equipped with the EvoQuench radial quenching system for polyamide.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
EvoQuench PA radial quenching system
With this, two well-known yarn manufacturers are now committing to the Evo Quench concept to produce polyamide yarn, equipping themselves for the efficient manufacture of microfiber yarns in the process. The benefits of radial quenching vis-Ă -vis conventional crossflow quenching when manufacturing microfibers are well-known from polyester processing: manufacturing outstanding quality in a more pro-duction-reliable manner, i.e. with fewer yarn breaks, is a convincing argument and makes producing polyamide microfibers considerably more efficient. "Used to create fabrics, the materials feel very pleasant to the touch", comments Stephan Faulstich, Head 138
of Development POY Process at Oerlikon Bar-mag, who has held the results of the currently sole operator of such a system in his hands. "I can imagine this will be used above all in the manufacture of sports apparel and underwear." Currently, Oerlikon Barmag is the world's only supplier of an already operating radial quenching concept for polyamide. This was absolutely decisive for both customers - well-known polyamide yarn manufacturers from the Zhejiang and Fujian provinces. "We are anticipating a similar effect in the development of the polyamide market as we did in the case of polyester. The efficient production of high-end micro-fiber yarns has become possible with the introduction of radial quenching for polyester yarns; the products have quickly developed from niche into standard products", assesses Regional Sales Director Detlef Heinze, talking about this quantum leap. The new systems are scheduled to begin manufacturing in early 2021. The high-end yarns are destined for global export. For further information: Susanne Beyer Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 1526 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com July - August 2019
NEWS
Glimpses of ITMA: Barcelona By Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. ITMA 2019 was a fabulous experience that the textile world thoroughly enjoyed. It was not just because of the amazing innovations brought forward giving sound pleasure to the technocrat in us, but was one soulful experience to the wanderer in every individual. Barcelona is a beautiful city that never fails to impress. No matter how many times one has visited this place; it will always have some hidden gems to be explored. Its world famous stature for soccer is no biggie. A sport enthusiast just cannot resist the urge of not visiting the stadiums. Even watching the empty stadiums brings out the memories of games seen on television. The beauty of city is in the artistic architectural landscape that it offers. You just wish to stop on the busy street and admire the street art, beautiful paintings, the buildings and the historical places. So trip was not just one where I was being a visitor for one of the most important textile exhibition but was peace of mind for the tourist in me.
ITMA 2019 was full of enthusiasm. We could see people charged up and having a positive mindset coming from across the globe. Overall the show saw a very positive side of global textile industry. Especially energetic and dynamic Indian visitors were seen on a very large scale. They stole the show with their thrust for innovations. In my visit of 5 days, I could see some ice breaking innovations, as there was an overflow of innovations across every segment and with such wide spectrum of exhibitors, I have tried to visit as many stalls as possible especially the one well known to me and covered innovations which were launched during the show. Obviously there are other sources as well from where you can get more details on the machineries showcased at ITMA. Impressive weaving technology from Bonas:
MontexStenter by Monforts: Monforts presented an energy-optimised new version of its industry-leading Montexstenter. With the introduction of the new Monfor Clean exhaust air treatment system and other unique process innovations, Monforts has been able to reduce the energy consumption of Montexstenters by further 13%. The modular Mon for Clean system is also available in different expansion stages and automates the heat recovery and exhaust air treatment, while eliminating July - August 2019
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A multitude of colors in both warp and weft can be expertly intertwined to produce top quality flat woven carpet by using a Bonas Si21. Demonstrations of the same were seen on top of an ITEMA R9500-2 rapier machine & on top of a Picanoloptimax rapier where we observed smooth and low vibration running of 21, 504 hook jacquard high speed, even with high density fabrics of 112 ends/cm and unbalanced designs. Bonas also demonstrated the maximum jacquard terry weaving flexibility with a 7,680-hook Si8 on display over a 340 cm Dornier LTNF terry air-jet loom, weaving top quality terry weave.
NEWS odours and ensuring the exhaust air is highly purified before escaping into the atmosphere. Additional energy can be saved by installing a Monforts Eco Applicator in front of a Montexstenter, which can significantly minimise the application of finishing formulations required for specific treatments compared to a padder/ foulard, resulting in a big reduction in the energy required for subsequent drying in the stenter and reducing the amount of residual liquor when draining the trough after the finishing process. Developments by Toyota: The JAT810 boasts a diverse range of original Toyota features, including an Air-Saving System that reduces energy consumption and the new "E-shed" electronic shedding motion. In addition, a newly developed function panel and a factory management system dramatically improve operability. They also displayed a new spinning frame.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Alliance Machine Textiles: Displayed Rotora dyeing machine with an integrated drying device allowing wet treatment for both standard and technical fabrics and also achieves drying inside the machine before offloading. Rivero Eco Green another machine from the company has a very low liquor ratio (1:2 to 1:3) and thanks to its air blowing system; tubular, open knitted and woven fabrics can be dyed free of crease marks. They also displayed other machines like Futura(long type dyeing), Zephyra (finishing machine for fabrics in rope form) and labojet. Colourjet - 16 head Vastrajet digital textile Printer: The advanced, high speed direct to fabric printer Vastrajet®- 8164 has the ability to become a commercial winner by providing users with outstanding performance, increased productivity, superior printing accuracy with minimal maintenance needs. The latest Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest technological innovation from ColorJet -AiS™ (Adaptive Ink System). The AiS™ provides the customer flexibility to use ink of their choice to address his various issues of logistics, procurement, colour consistency, etc. Color Jet also demonstrated its high-speed Metro-8166 that delivers industrial-level production with speeds of up to 294 sq. m per hour. The Metro-8166 will be operated at ITMA 2019 on reactive ink, whereas the Vastrajet®8164 will be run on pigment ink on cotton blended fabrics.
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Digital Thread dyeing system by Twine solution: With a clean, neat and minimal infrastructure, no water, toxic chemicals handling, or messy processes are required. Twine?s award-winning TS-1800 Digital Thread Dyeing System and Snap Match™ Digital Dyeto-Match mobile application, enables you to dye your own thread with a click of a button - Any Color, Any Length, on Demand - In-house. Prodye- R rope dyeing machine by Karl Mayer: The PRODYE-R indigo rope dyeing machine operates with just eight dyeing units to produce deep, pure shades with a dye application of up to 5.5% of the yarn weight. The short wet zone reduces the bath volume by up to 25%. Furthermore, when changing the ball, the warp length remaining in the machine, which isunusable, can be reduced by 20%. Overall, the machine uses less energy and water and fewer chemicals. In fact, the water consumption can be reduced by roughly 30%. Superba space dyeing technology Introduced the latest version of its MCD/3 space dyeing machine for carpets along with further new developments in heat-setting, texturising and winding technologies. The latest MCD/3 space dyeing machine is capable of handling a layer of 72 ends with a range of spot length - especially for the ultra-short spots of below 25mm, thus enabling "one-pile/one-color" process on the carpet. Tectex showcased needleloom technology They displayed a real scale needleloom with a working width of 1,500mm. It incorporates most of the innovations that the company develops, including a new robotized gear shifter to make an endless elliptical action. With a stroke of 60mm and a density of 3,500 n/mtr, the loom is designed to run up to 2,500RPM. New Products from Savio They exhibited innovative, highly automated, energy saving and Industry 4.0 solutions in all of their displayed machines. Helios is a fully automated machine with hybrid technology offering more efficiency with rotor speeds up to 120,000rpm and take up speeds up to 250m/min. and support high flexibility. Savio's Polar Evolution and Eco Pulsar S winding machines can easily process the special and challenging yarns, thanks to special splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape, while always monitoring off-standard values. Savio product development is focused on "smart" components that must transmit data online. July - August 2019
NEWS USTER Quality control technology: Uster Q-Bar 2 represents the next generation of the original on-loom monitoring and inspection system, offering user-friendly design and operational improvements for weaving. USTERÂŽ FABRIQ EXPERT collects quality maps centrally for each roll.
SAURER
Fully-customizable reports, for every personnel level, are displayed at the on-screen dashboard. This easyto-use system guides managers and operators to evaluate defects from different lots and optimize fabric yield. Fongs Sustainable fabric dyeing operations: Displayed "Then Smartflow TSF. It is designed to achieve the lowest possible energy and water consumption rates available on the market for jet dyeing, with achievable liquor ratios for a full load up to 300kg with a reduced kier volume and a liquor ratio down to 1:3.5 for cotton and 1:2.5 for synthetics. The newlydeveloped nozzles and reel-less transport in combination with smart controlled circular plaiting and variable chamber adjustment provide even fabric treatment without entanglements and the highest loading capacity with the lowest kier volume.
Autoairo, is the new game changer in air spinning. It defines new benchmarks in productivity, efficiency and especially automation in the lucrative air-spinning market The Autoairo has autonomous spinning positions with individual drives, integrated intelligence and a digital piecing unit. Twenty-four piecing operations can be carried out simultaneously with Synchro Piecing 24. With MultiLot, up to four lots can be spun on the Autoairo at the same time with Pilot Spin, test packages can be manufactured while the other spinning positions simply continue with normal production. It requires 40% less space than air-spinning machines with a one-sided design.
LMW
Theme for 2019-20 is "Innovation in all spinning technologies combined with Automation & Digitisation?. Industry 4.0 is the core of the all the technologies. All their machines are Industry 4.0 compliant offering Spin Connect to the factories for the Control Room Management concept in a spinning mill. LMW had launched a slew of new products, including new draw frame, higher capacity carding machine, longer ring frame, new compact systems, Spin Connect, etc. The Roving Transport System (RTS) ensures the automatic transportation of bobbin from speed frame to ring frame based on the requirement. The Lap Transport System (LTS) automates the transportation of lap to the combing system. These save a lot of manpower and deliver consistent quality due to lesser manhandling of bobbins. July - August 2019
Bruckner introduced new BRĂœCKNER POWERFRAME VNE multi-layer stenter. Multi-layer stenters require little space. They are suitable for finishing woven or dimensionally stable knitted fabric, nonwovens, needle felt, technical textiles or for the wool industry. Completely lubricant-free fabric transport chain of the multilayer stenter, because there is absolutely no oil in the dryer interior. Only one machine operator is required to operate the stenter. LOEPFE Loepfe launches next generation quality control systems - The YarnMaster PRISMA the salient features are: Yarn Master PRISMA combines all the established sensor technologies for the first time in one 141
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BRUCKNER
NEWS device. Yarn Master PRISMA yarn clearers are backed with RGB F-sensor technology; offering previously unachieved levels of safety and reliability in foreign matter detection.
Over the years, I have noticed and observed that the end users are not demanding garments that have very high strength and longer lifespan. These over engineered garments have actually reduced the purchase cycle which in turn has resulted in reduction in market share of the products. This issue needs to be addressed and we need to manufacture products with lifecycle for the consumer and not the one which retailers are demanding. By doing so the pricing can be reduced but at the same time the demand will increase on account of increase in the purchase cycle.
The new RGB F-sensor illuminates the yarn in the full spectrum of light, enabling the recognition of even the slightest difference in shade and glossiness in any type of yarn and color or both.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
YarnMaster PRISMA yarn clearers incorporated with the new generation of P-sensors complements the unique approach of Loepfe's unconventional yarn clearing concept of total quality control in the winding process. YarnMaster PRISMA yarn clearers backed with DM sensor technology - ready for any challenge and ensuring economic production while not compromising on quality the heart of the YarnMaster PRISMA yarn clearing concept is the simple and intuitive new PRISMA operating system. Easy operating and navigation controls ensure a high user acceptance and productivity. Loepfe's data collection and management system MillMaster TOP 2.0 is an integrated part of the functional scope of the Yarn Master PRISMA WORLD and complements every Loepfe yarn clearer installation.
Now time has come for the existing entrepreneurs to replace their age old machines with smarter machines having latest technology. The payback period in this case will be much faster as they will save a lot on operating cost resulting in business process re-engineering across entire industry. Suvin will help you in this transition by making business plans, understanding the goals that you wish to achieve, assisting you in accomplishing the desired results that will be smarter, effective and towards a glorious future. Let us carve out‌A better tomorrow!!!
Summary: This time, I have observed that, all the innovations launched were focusing on reduction of operating costs for which major emphasis was on technology. It was quite visible that all machinery manufacturers main motive was technology improvisation and making the machines smarter. This impromptu data collection, intelligent knowhow, data handling and instantaneous feedback for necessary changes in processes by smart machineries have introduced a new era in textile industry. Introduction of these smart technologies will lead to lower operating cost which will result into getting better profitability of end products developed. The textile entrepreneurs need to focus on making optimization of quality of yarn, fabric, garments etc. 142
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ITAMMA join hands with PCRA by signing MoU ITAMMA join hands with PCRA by signing MoUfor bringing in Conservation of Energy, Oil & Natural Resources in theTextile Industry. We have seen the trend of industry development from Automation, Smart Manufacturing, Industry 4.0, Digitalization andtoday Responsible Manufacturing. Realising the importance of Going Green for sustainability ITAMMA has also takenvarious initiatives through its cluster development activities further bringing out the print magazine ITAMMA VOIC Especially on the above aspects as a 'theme' of the publication. The time has come for everyone to contribute in the Conservation of Energy, Oil and Natural Resources to save the Mother Earth in future.
About the Seminar
Mr. Chandresh Shah, Vice-President, ITAMMA delivering Welcome Speech
ITAMMA has taken a serious note of these aspects on its Agenda of mission. At the same time, Petroleum Conservation Research Association (PCRA) is also actively involved in bringing out conservation of these aspects in the industry throughits various schemes.
ITAMMA and Mr. Rahul Kishore, Additional Director, PCRA. As per MoU, ITAMMA members will provided training andenergy audits by PCRA at nominal charges. Also awareness programmes on above aspects will be organised by PCRA forITAMMA members at Coimbatore, Mumbai, and Panipat Textile Clusters.
Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech) presentations on Developments observed in Textile Machines at ITMA 2019
Mr. Chandresh H. Shah, Vice-President, ITAMMA welcomed all the delegates informing about the importance of Energyand Oil in the operational cost of the manufacturing process. He further added that apart from importance of these aspectsin the business equations everyone should also look at them from the Environmental issues. Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech) delivered presentation on "Latest developments observed in Textile Machines at ITMA'2019- related to conservation of Lubricants and Energy" giving details of those innovations observed at ITMA'2019 which were related to the conservation of oil & energy and also focused on the possibility of their adoption indigenously. Mr. Rahul Kishore, Additional Director, PCRA, gave details about the scheme of PCRA while Mr. Jirag Chauhan, Leader Auditor and a faculty of PCRA gave his presentation on "Electrical & Energy Audits".
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Accordingly ITAMMA has decided to take this Mission forward jointly with PCRA. To sustain this partnership for the benefit of our members and the textile industry as whole, ITAMMA signed an MoU with PCRA on 26th July, 2019 during aSeminar on "PCRA assistance for the Development of Textile Machines/ Components/Processes leading to Conservation ofEnergy, Oil & Natural Resources" at AMA, Ahmedabad. The MoU was signed by Mr. Chandresh H. Shah, Vice-President,
NEWS
Mr. Rahul Kishore, Additional Director, PCRA presentations on PCRA Schemes for Energy Conservation in Industry Sector
Mr. MananShah,MD, MBK Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad offered the in-house facility for Health Camps in his factory
Until now, ITAMMA has organised various technological and business activities for its members. Programmes like 5S, Lean,Yellow Belt training, Design Clinics were organised to strengthen the technological set up of their factories and the manforce. While activities like Catalogue Shows, B2B Meets,and Delegation have strengthened the member's business exploringcapacities. Mr. NimishSanghvi, Chairman Global Competitiveness Sub- Committee delivering Vote of Thanks
Mr. Nimish Sanghvi, Chairman, Global Competitiveness Sub-Committee, delivered the Vote of Thanks where he mentionedabout Mr. Prashant Gandhi, Member, Global Competitiveness Sub-Committee who initiated this activity and thanked PCRA and its team for organizing this very useful Seminar. It was finalised during the Seminar to implement "Energy Audits" by PCRA and "LED Light" projects by enlec solutionsunder cluster initiatives on war foot basis.
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"Health is Wealth" -- ITAMMA's mission for its members with the help of EDI under CSR project of YES BANK The policies for better health, poverty reduction, and less inequality, throughout the world, require thorough understandingof both the processes and causal paths that underlie the intricate relationship between health and wealth (income). This isdeemed difficult, contingent, and only partially understood. A vast majority of researchers instead present theoretical andempirical arguments of the reverse proposition, i.e. 'wealth is health'. 144
During this journey of development of members, it was realised the importance of the healthy shop floor manpowers, viz. workers who carry the lions share in bringing the success to the projects undertaken by the Employers. Accordingly the mission of "Health Camps" was taken in the Agenda. The series of such "Health Camps" are benchmarkedfor different clusters at Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Maharashtra, Gwalior, etc. which was initiated by the one organised at Ahmedabad on 27th July, 2019 at following 2 factories, (i) M/s. Krsna Engimech (P) Ltd., B-4, GIDC, Phase-II, Naroda,Ahmedabad; where Mr. Chandresh H. Shah, Vice-President, ITAMMA & Managing Director, extended all the inhousefacilities; (ii) M/s. MBK Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd., 426, GIDC, Opp. Telephone Exchange, Odhav, Ahmedabad where Mr.Manan Shah, Managing Director extended all the in-house facilities; and where about 126 workers took advantage of thisactivity absolutely free of cost. About 6 medical tests were conducted and the Reports were informed to the workers andthe ITAMMA Member-Employer also. The factory management took the note of the abnormal medical results andextended their help to the worker in further treatment to attend the same. The Health Camps were organised jointly with the Entrepreneur Development Institute (EDI) under the sponsored CSRproject of YES BANK. July - August 2019
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ITMA-2019 - from the bioscope of ITAMMA Action initiated It was on 6th June, 2019 during the second meeting of the Managing Committee ITAMMA decided to depute Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Technical) to explore 'ITMA-2019' as well as to execute various activities of ITAMMA for the benefit of its members.
member advertisers and important information about the exhibition and Barcelona, etc. was distributed at ITAMMA Member stalls during ITMA'2019.
The mission was already started when Mr. J. M. Balaji, Chairman, Events & Publication Sub-Committee, delivered his presentations on "Exhibition skills- How to prepare for a successful exhibition & Establishing worldwide network through ITMA 2019" at Ahmedabad on 15th March'2019 and also during Coimbatore Export Cell meeting on on 6th May'2019, which was followed by the formation of WhatsApp group of 74 ITAMMA member-exhibitors participating in 'ITMA2019'. At the same time the work of preparation of 'ITMA Guide' and application for MSME grants under IC Scheme for ITAMMA member-exhibitors was taken in hand.
their Daily Newspaper dt. 20th June'2019 on page No's 44 & 45. Mr. Chandresh H. Shah, Vice-President, ITAMMA offered Memento and Coffee Table Book to Sylvia Phua, Managing Director, ITMA Services Pte Ltd. & Andrew Lin, Senior Exhibition Manager, ITMA Services Pte Ltd. and registered our member's grievances about the exhibition to her. While Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Technical) also offered Coffee Table Books to Authorities/representatives of the International Associations. ITAMMA was felicitated by the organizer with 'Certificate of Appreciation' as a Supporting Association. Technology Scouting Mission Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Action executed About 1800 copies of 'ITMA Guide' with 64 ITAMMA
The Press Release of Mr. Jugal Kishore Pansari, President, ITAMMA was published by the WTiN in
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NEWS Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Technical) made his observations at various stalls during the exhibition in regard with the latest technologies and the innovations displayed/showcased by the Exhibitors. The observations noted down were presented to ITAMMA Members through Power Point presentations during the Seminars "PCRA assistance for the Development of Textile Machines / Components / Processes leading to Conservation of Energy, Oil & Natural Resources" at AMA, Ahmedabad on 26th July and on "Latest Developments in Textile Engineering and future ahead" on 9th August, 2019at Jennys Club in Coimbatore. During both the Seminars the Technological Developments and Innovations observed at ITMA'2019 were highlighted for inducing the Members to go for their
implementations at indigenous level through Technical R & D Projects and /or Joint Ventures / Technology Transfers. PCRA extended its willingness in funding the Projects related to Conservation of Energy, Oil & Natural Resources. While Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director SITRA assured for cooperation as knowledge Partner in these Technical Projects. This 'Technology Scouting Mission' of ITAMMA has given an opportunity to ITAMMA Members for enriching their Technical knowledge and strengthening their technological base. Thus promoting the 'Make in India' mission of the Govt. of India. A detailed Technical Report of ITAM'2019 tour was also submitted to all ITAMMA Members for their reference. (Those who wish to have may write to info@itamma.org)
KARL MAYER stepping up growth in home textiles Net fabrics with a touch of extravagance Stylish net curtains produced on KARL MAYER's new warp knitting machines with weft insertion
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
KARL MAYER is stepping up its operations in the home textiles sector. Particularly encouraged by the feedback from its weft-inserted, warp-knitted textiles at the last Heimtextil fair in January 2019 in Frankfurt, this manufacturer has further optimised its machine technology for producing fine, fashionable, net curtain fabrics, and has created a stylish collection to show examples of the products. Its commitment to window fashions has two main focuses: transparent, voile-like embroidery grounds, produced on a TM WEFT with the appropriate configuration, and fine fabrics with a woven look produced on the new WEFT.FASHION TM 3 by processing fancy yarns. Embroidery grounds with an untypical design for typical embroidery
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The TM WEFT, with a gauge of E 24, was launched in January 2019 as an innovative new machine for producing interlinings efficiently. KARL MAYER is currently working on a gauge of E 28 for home textile applications. With its finer gauge, this tricot machine with weft insertion is designed to produce fashionable embroidery grounds. Delicate veil-like fabrics with lustrous effects produced by the shimmering yarns can be produced, as well as filigree fabrics with subtle linear designs. This uniform look is based on working different stitch densities and a specific pattern. The TM WEFT works a combination of a pillar stitch, inlay and magazine weft to produce unconventional embroidery grounds. The yarn, which is incorporated over the entire working width, creates a different look and guarantees crosswise stability, which prevents undesirable elongation when the fabric is rotated about an angle of 90° for use as net curtains. More designs can be produced by using different yarns that are easy to process. Jan Hippich says that this concept for the embroidery ground business has been particularly well received by Turkish producers, who are leading this sector. The Head of Product Portfolio Management at KARL MAYER presented the weft-inserted, warpknitted fabrics for this application at Heimtextil 2019, and had many conversations about them. Many representatives from the weaving sector were also interested. Their leno weaves mean that they are familiar with the look and slip resistance of fabrics produced on July - August 2019
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Net curtain designs with special effects If the pattern effects are not going to be embroidered on, but rather incorporated directly into the net curtaining fabrics, the WEFT.FASHION TM 3 would be the machine of choice. This new tricot machine has three guide bars and can insert medium-weight fancy yarns as magazine weft yarns. "We incorporated more than ten different fancy yarns in the weft zone, and combined them with a ground made from polyester multifilament yarns of 40 den or 50 den. The tests ran perfectly smoothly, and we produced some exceptional patterns," says Kay Burkhardt from KARL MAYER's Application Technology Department. Textiles produced on the WEFT.FASHION TM 3 were a real highlight on the company's stand at ITMA 2019. The delicately patterned fabrics combine fine lattice grounds with a variety of attractive linear designs to create a stylish look that has been a popular feature of woven fabrics for some time. Strict geometrical patterns, as well as irregular, organic structures with a natural look and many other designs can also be produced. Possibilities and new ideas for creations were the subject of many conversations held during the most recent trade fairs. As well as offering a wide variety of different looks, the slip-resistant fabrics deliver all the technological advantages of warp knitting over weaving for producing fabrics, i.e. no sizing process and a higher productivity. Examples can be found in the pattern part of this issue. The WEFT.FASHION TM 3, a specialist in producing warp-knitted home textiles The WEFT.FASHION TM 3 is an efficient tricot machine featuring weft insertion in line with the stitches for producing medium- weight home textiles. The machine delivers an exceptional cost benefit ratio, runs extremely reliably, and is easy to operate. It is available in a gauge of E 24 and with a working width of 132". Net curtain lengths of up to 3.25 m can be worked. The first machines will be delivered at the end this year to a development partner for carrying out practiJuly - August 2019
cal trials. Production machines will be available for delivery in 2020. Producing the next generation of tricot fabrics with ON drive The HKS 3-M-ON, with electronic pattern drive and digital systems, was premiered at ITMA 2019
HKS 3-M-ON_Machine KARL MAYER launched the new HKS 3-M-ON at ITMA 2019, the first three-bar HKS machine with electronic guide bar control, which is linked to the digital world of KM.ON. This market leader has scored a direct hit with this machine. The HKS 3-M-ON impressed the visitors in Barcelona with its new flexibility and exceptional ease of handling when changing the pattern, and also by its high production rate. This new machine can reach a maximum speed of 2,900 min-1, depending on the working width. This makes it the fastest, high-speed tricot machine with electronic pattern drive that has ever been built. It is also just as fast as the current HKS 3-M model with N-drive, but it is also much more flexible. Patterning at the highest level of flexibility A wide range of patterns can be produced and changed quickly on the new HKS 3-M-ON. It is simply a question of ordering the required lapping from KARL MAYER's WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS and loading the data to suit the guide bars from the company's own cloud directly onto the machine - and work on the new article can be started immediately. Selected lappings from a pre-defined list are available to download free of charge when working one of the first patterns on a newly acquired machine. KM.ON's industry computer, k.ey, is responsible for securely linking the HKS 3-MON machine to the KM.ON cloud, thus providing access to KARL MAYER's digital world. Thanks to the electronic guide bar control facility, there is no need to make any mechanical modifications when 147
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the TM WEFT, but they can be produced much more efficiently. Once all the development work had been completed, the TM WEFT, with a working width of 247", should be able to simultaneously produce two net curtain webs, or 120 m of net curtaining per hour. Furthermore, there is generally no need to carry out sizing when producing warp-knitted net curtains. Stylish, on trend fabrics can be produced for an attractive cost. An example can be seen in the pattern part of this issue.
NEWS changing the article, which used to be the case with the previous HKS 3-M version. This means that any repeat can be worked, without any tempi change. Kay Hilbert, the Head of Product Portfolio Management at KARL MAYER, says that the visitors were particularly impressed by this simple pattern change system, which does not require any mechanical intervention. "Many of our customers are faced with a change of generation amongst their staff. Young people are computer-savvy, but people with specialist knowledge of the mechanical systems are hard to find." Additionally, the ON drive eliminates the costs of buying, handling and storing pattern discs. With all the new possibilities offered by the HKS 3-M-ON, customers can reduce pattern-related stoppages considerably, increase productivity greatly, and react quickly to changing market demands. This innovative, high-speed tricot machine also delivers additional benefits, thanks to the new main drive system. The main shaft is now moved directly by the associated main motor. This system, together with the electronic guide bar drive, eliminates the need for wearprone drive belts, and this has a positive effect on maintenance costs. Noise levels have also been reduced. Sales launch in 2020 The new HKS 3-M-ON will be available in gauges E 28 and E 32 and in the working widths of 130", 180", 210", 238" and 280". Its wide range of features is opening up many possible end-uses for this three-bar HKS machine, which will be available as of 2020. The HKS 3-M-ON will go into production in the first quarter of next year.
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Successful start in China The first TM WEFT impresses Hebei Chunfeng Interlining Co., Ltd.
TM WEFT Chunfeng Interlining 148
In January 2019, KARL MAYER Technische Textilien launched its new TM WEFT onto the market and, by the following April, the first model went into operation in practice. This highly productive warp knitting machine with magazine weft insertion was delivered to Hebei Chunfeng Interlining Co., Ltd., and was soon setting new production standards in this company. Just one month later, KARL MAYER Technische Textilien received a follow- up order, with delivery scheduled to begin in June. This manufacturer is particularly impressed by this twobar warp knitting machine with weft insertion, mainly because of the types of product it can produce. "Compared to conventional interlining products, warp-knitted fabrics are denser, thicker and softer and, therefore, more competitive. With their profile of characteristics, they can fully meet global demand in the sector and are bridging a gap in China's highend segment," says Mr. Yang, the Managing Director of Chunfeng Interlining Co., Ltd. This new type of warp-knitted interlining should make full use of the advantages of the highquality yarns used to produce them. They feature a finely structured look and exhibit an impressive behaviour in terms of fibre abrasion and deformation. In addition, the elasticity is excellent. Other manufacturers, especially in China, have recognised the advantages of the product design, as well as the exceptional cost:benefit ratio of the TM WEFT. In June, KARL MAYER Technische Textilien took more orders from companies in the region around Nantong, the centre of interlining production in China. A specialist on the interlining market Hebei Chunfeng Interlining Co., Ltd. was set up in 1986. It covers an area of 20,000 m², has total assets of 60 million RMB, and is based in the Boye district in Hebei Province, just 170 km away from Beijing. 120 employees, 28 of whom are managers and specialist technologists, are employed there. The company specialises in producing and selling interlining products. This textile company also holds the right to import and export goods. It has made a name for itself in the sector as a supplier of high-end products, and is the largest manufacturer of high-quality interlinings in Hebei Province. Since it was set up, Hebei Chunfeng Interlining Co., Ltd. has developed numerous new innovations, has gained a wealth of experience, and has been set up as a vertically integrated company. This wellknown player in the sector now runs spinning, weaving, warp knitting and finishing operations. Over July - August 2019
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More scope - thanks to a modular design The LACE.EXPRESS, with its flexible platform concept and width of 134", is now targeting the intimates sector In 2016, KARL MAYER launched its OJ machine series under the brandname of LACE.EXPRESS, which was aimed specifically at the special requirements of the clothing market. At ITMA 2019, this manufacturer presented a complete, self-contained machine platform for the intimate apparel sector, which greatly impressed the visitors. A special feature of the range is that the models in the series are all compatible with each other. In keeping with the motto, "Create your own production machine", every machine can be equipped to the technical level of its high-bar neighbours within the platform. Low-bar items can be produced on high-bar machines, without adapting the pattern data. This enables the customer to benefit from maximum flexibility. Maximum productivity and the ability to adapt to specific requirements
LACE EXPRESS Intimate
This new machine platform combines the OJ models with different bar configurations in a uniform layout. The range includes the OJ 91/1, OJ 85/1, OJ 65/1, OJ 59/1 and OJ 42/1. All the models are available as B and F versions. The available gauges are E 24 and E 18 and the working width is 134", which are perfect for the intimate apparel sector. This modular platform concept enables the machines to be upgraded into higher bar versions. For example, an upgrade kit is available for changing an OJ 42/1 into an OJ 91/1 - to expand the range of patterns it can produce. The patterns are also compatible with an increasing number of bars. Customers can change the design from an OJ 42/1 to an OJ 91/1, without having to make any modifications. This unique flexibility is complemented by an exceptionally high production rate. The machines increase output by 100 % for the same investment, compared to their predecessors. Customers are also able to profit from the general benefits of the LACE.EXPRESS series. LEO® reduces the energy consumption of the LACE.EXPRESS machines by 40 %, compared to the previous models. A mobile operator user interface simplifies the setting-up of the string bars and improves the view for monitoring production. Start of production - with new machines appearing at specific time intervals As the first model in the new LACE.EXPRESS platform, the OJ 91/1 is available immediately as F and B versions. The first lowbar machines will be available from October onwards. Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com
LIVA announces entry in Saree category at India's largest trade show in Kolkata August 2, 2019, Kolkata: After seeing the great success in the brands and women apparel categories like Stoles, Kurtis, and Leggings; LIVA from Aditya Birla Grouwp, will now enter into the Saree category. LIVA will be announcing their entry into this segment at India's July - August 2019
largest saree event, Kolkata Fashion Expo held on 6th August 2019 in the city. Sponsored and presented by Liva, the event had a fashion show presented by using fabrics from Liva and 149
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the last few years, this company has been focusing on training new, talented people and managers, as well as developing new products. More money has also been invested in the plant. The new TM WEFT, E 24, supplied by KARL MAYER, is one of its most recent acquisitions.
NEWS a lounge where the collections by the brand's partners were showcased for the first time. LIVA's aim is to reimagine the heritage that saree has and combine it with the attributes of Liva fabric to suit needs of contemporary women. About LIVA : Liva is a new-age fabric from Aditya Birla Group. Unlike other fabricsthat are boxy or synthetic, Liva is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through accredited value chain. The new-age, naturally sourced fiber made into fabric in pure or blended form, transforms not just the garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly. About Birla Cellulose : Birla Cellulose represents
the Pulp and Fiber business of Aditya Birla Group, is India's pioneer in Viscose Staple Fiber (VSF). Birla Cellulose Fibers are of 100% natural origin, highly absorbent, have an especially good feel, and are completely biodegradable. As an extremely versatile and easily blendable fiber, VSF is widely used in apparels, home textiles, dress material, knitted wear and nonwoven applications. Birla Cellulose commands a major world market share in the man-made cellulose Fiber domain. For Further details, contact: Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com Andrea Joseph: andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com GreeshmaNachane: greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com
LIVA focuses on new fashion trends at the YARNEX Liva participated at the Delhi Edition of YARNEX Exhibition on 17th July, 2019, to facilitate their brand partners who showcased products made with Liva fabrics. LIVA focused on knits and woven fabrics and stoles. This range has been carefully crafted to meet the requirement of western and ethnic womenswear. Buyers appreciated the collection exhibited by Mercury, Mukut Mani, R K Handlooms, and Shree Sakthi Vinayagarat Liva Pavilion.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly.
About LIVA:Liva is a new-age fabric from Aditya Birla Group. Unlike other fabrics that are boxy or synthetic, Liva is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through accredited value chain. The new-age, naturally sourced fiber made into fabric in pure or blended form, transforms not just the
About Birla Cellulose: Birla Cellulose represents the Pulp and Fiber business of Aditya Birla Group, is India's pioneer in Viscose Staple Fiber (VSF). Birla Cellulose Fibers are of 100% natural origin, highly absorbent, have an especially good feel, and are completely biodegradable. As an extremely versatile and easily blendable fiber, VSF is widely used in apparels, home textiles, dress material, knitted wear and non-woven applications. Birla Cellulose commands a major world market share in the man-made cellulose Fiber domain. For Further details, contact: Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com Andrea Joseph: andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com
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LIVA gets overwhelming response at the National Garment Fair by CMAI Known to be the most versatile and sustainable fabric, Liva's varied applications were showcased across categories at the CMAI's (Clothing Manufacturers Association of India) - National Garment Fair held on 19th July, 2019 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre.
On the innovation front, Jelite a womens apparel brand has come up with knitted saree blouse with Liva fabric, which are high on comfort as well as fashion. Ruby Mills has launched their high performance menswear shirts which are comfortable, low-wrinkle as well as well zero shrinkage. Such innovative collections showcased at the event were acknowledged by the buyers. "CMAI exhibition has really grown in terms of its reach and our focus to reach out to the far corners of the country is being fulfilled with the help of this event. More consumer focused offerings were showcased in the exhibition based on categories like athleisure, ceremonial, and casual among others. Feedback of the buyers for the customized offering is procured through direct response. A platform like this helps not only to enhance and grow the brand's image through alignment and differentiation of products but also by accelerating the final miles of a brands go-to-market strategy and soften the risks associated with new product launches." Manohar Samuel, President - marketing, Birla Cellulose said.
Expos like National Garment Fair provide brands with the boost and exposure required in the ever so competitive fashion industry, in terms of innovative styles and trendsetting fabrics. For Further details, contact: Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com Andrea Joseph: andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com GreeshmaNachane: Greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com
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National Garment Fair is India's largest garment fair and is a great business networking platform for exhibitors, agents, distributors, high street retailers, national chain stores and e-commerce companies from across the country. With over 12,000 visitors for the show, Liva witnessed a great response for the products crafted by partner brands like Anjali, Elini, Gokultex, Hemkunt, Mahendra Mills, Mevabaa, Orient, Prisma, Rubi Mills, Sudit. Liva's application in Kurti, leggings and stoles were highly appreciated by the business visitors. Partner brands benefit greatly from such events and get impactful business opportunities for growth and expansion.
Liva is a modern alternative to the traditional fabric for new age Indian women who deserve a high quality as well as comfort in their apparel needs. These fabrics will promote possibilities by LIVA and showcase the current fashion across the country in a range of colors, textures, and prints.
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LIVA promotes its applications in Intimate wear category at INTIMASIA 2019 LIVA the new age fabric form the Aditya Birla Group marked it presence at INTIMASIA 2019 in Kolkata. LIVA along with its partner brands like Arvind, Gemini, Prisma, Crazy Penguins & Tom Burg showcased collections featuring lingerie, men's intimate wear, children's inner wear, shapewear using Birla Viscose and Birla Modal fibres. Application in Camisole and Lounge Wear was highly appreciated by the exhibitors and retailers.
LIVA is set to expand its presence in the intimate wear category, given that the industry is expected to grow at around 12% in the coming years. "The objective of participating in the show was to strengthen the reach and relations with partner brands and increase the presence in intimate wear category. More consumer focused offerings were showcased in the exhibition. Feedback of the buyers for the customized offering was procured through direct response," said Spokesperson from Birla Cellulose. About LIVA: LIVA is a new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group. Unlike other fabrics, that are boxy or synthetic, LIVA is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through accredited value chain. The new-age naturally sourced fiber made into fabric in pure or blended form, transforms not just the garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly. The brand recently launched their eco-enhanced version of the fabric, called Livaeco, which made of wood pulp sourced from FSC certified forests.
LIVA receives an overwhelming response at Yarns, Fabric & Accessories Trade Show
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Liva, a new age fabric by Aditya Birla Group, received an overwhelming response at Yarn, Fabric and Accessories Trade Show 2019 on 28th August, 2019 held in Ludhiana. Visitors appreciated the quality and trendy Liva garments crafted by Liva's partners Prisma Leggings, Monica Collection, Aswira Premium Fabrics, Vandan Silk Mills and Swami Textiles.
LIVA booth at the Yarn, Fabric and Accessories event
Various new brands have shown interest in this expo to get associated with Liva. 152
"Strengthening the reach and relations with partner brands as well as increasing the presence in the value chain are the two important objectives to participate in the show. The positive response from the visitors and multiple business leads contributed to the success of Liva's presence at the show." said spokesperson from Birla Cellulose. LIVA is a new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group. Unlike other fabrics, that are boxy or synthetic, LIVA is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through the accredited value chain. The new-age naturally sourced fibre made into fabric in pure or blended form transforms not just the garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly. The brand recently launched their eco-enhanced version of the fabric, called Livaeco, which made of wood pulp sourced from FSC certified forestry. July - August 2019
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One day Workshop at Kurukshetra on Printing & Packaging has lot of Opportunities working of a printing packaging unit. This one day workshop may be instrumental in developing your career in printing and packaging.
Prof. (Ms) Bindu Sharma, Director
In his address, Prof. Kamal Chopra highlighted the importance of printing in daily life and said, Printing is the biggest invention of mankind till date, because Printing brought about Civilization. Welcoming the students for adopting printing as a career, he said, in printing there are ample opportunities. In India we have more than 250,000 printing companies which are highest than anywhere else. He said, today the shape of printing is changing, it is therefore the students must learn the modern means and future printing while at the University.
Prof. Kamal Chopra felicitated
Welcoming the students and the industry experts, Prof. (Ms) Bindu Sharma, Director of the Institute of Mass Communication said, it is a golden opportunity for the students, this workshop will prove to be a boon, to perpetuate the thrust of knowledge of the students. It will not only develop the technical knowledge of the students, but they will also understand the system of July - August 2019
Printers have evolved from mammoth noisy devices in special print rooms to compact laser printers with wireless technology, or multifunctional devices. The concept of printing in the enterprise has undergone a major paradigm shift in the last couple of years. One of the major reasons behind this is rapid growth in the 153
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The Institute of Mass Communication and Media Technology at Kurukshetra University organized a workshop on Industry - Academia Programme, the theme of the day was 'Career Opportunity in Printing & Packaging'. This workshop was organized for the students of B.Sc. Printing Packaging at the Faculty Lounge of the University on 22 August, 2019.
Welcoming Prof. Kamal Chopra, Chief Guest of the event, Prof. Bindu said, it is our privilege that Prof. Chopra has accepted our invitation to grace the occasion as the Chief Guest of the event. Prof. Chopra is renowned international figure of printing industry and it will be high time for the students to interact with him to understand the national and international opportunities on being a Printer. She added, No one can live without printing and at the same time, in printing I have not noticed any one more committed to the trade and industry than Prof. Chopra. It is our honour to welcome him at Kurukshetra to guide the students and faculty of the department.
NEWS area of printing technology. This has created a scenario where printers have evolved much beyond their basic printing function. Rapid technology advances, reduced costs, color printing, ever increasing number of functions-the list of options is getting bigger and bigger with each passing day. This is making the number of available printing options more lucrative. It also means that organizations are adopting newer methods of printing. Speaking about the future trends, Prof. Chopra said, the printing is going to emerge as the Manufacturing Engineering. Print may be considered as a repurposed technology - purely from the researcher's point of view. It may evolve in Manufacturing, Medical Science, Construction, Nano & Biometrics, Electronics, Bio-printing, Food Printing, Micro Structuring etc. It is therefore the students of today may prepare himself to withstand such challenges during your studies.
therefore E-publishing is the best alternative. He suggested career in print media buying in detail and said, students must learn the costing & estimating, motivational skills, communication skills etc. besides technical knowledge of printing and packaging. He also invited the students for paid internship in their enterprise during or after completing the studies. Mr. Rajiv Gulati, Vice President of Himachal Pradesh Corrugation Board Manufacturers Association educated the students about the scope and plenty of opportunities in the packaging industry. He said, packaging is a growing and employment generating industry not only in India but in everywhere in the world. These days sale of the goods depends upon it packaging. The product can be safely delivered to its fixed location only on the basis of packaging. The design and packaging of a product evaluates its value in the market. He advised the students to concentrate on studies very deeply, because your work in your student life will be helpful in making your future golden.
Mr. Amit Kumar Sharma, GM Harper Collins Publishers
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Prof. (Dr.) Ambrish Pandey, former Chairman of Department of Printing
Prof. (Dr.) Ambrish Pandey, former Chairman of Department of Printing, G J University of Science & Technology said, the student must always think about new innovations and try to explore new items in the field of printing and packaging. Moving forward with such ideas will make the life easier for themselves and others. Mr. Rajiv Gulati, Vice President of Himachal Pradesh Corrugation Board Manufacturers Association
In his lecture, Mr. Amit Kumar Sharma, GM Harper Collins Publishers said, we have noticed the development in almost every field due to internet, Printing is also not left behind. There is great development in EPublishing and it demand is continuously increasing. In today's lifestyle we have very short time for everything and the human want to save time from reading it is 154
Printing and packaging are the result of the inventive ideas that everyone is using today to move forward in their lives. Mr. Kanwardeep Sharma was the moderator of the event and Prof. Sachin Verma, Asst. Professor of the department assisted him along with Mr. Amit Jagra, Mr. Rakesh Kumar and Mr. Jatinder Rohilla.
July - August 2019
NEWS
Researchers Develop Better Method to Remove Toxic Dyes from Wastewater
From health care to fracking and beyond, the ability to clean wastewater is vital in many fields. A team of Texas Tech University researchers working in advanced textiles has found a new way to remove toxic dye pollutants from wastewater, and their approach is safer, cheaper and easier than traditional methods. Their results are described in the upcoming cover article of the online journal Particle & Particle Systems Characterization. When fabrics are dyed, one of the final stages is the washing process, which helps to both set the dye in the fabric and remove any excess dye. The problem, however, is that after the dyeing process, the water is contaminated with leftover synthetic dyes and pigments - up to 200,000 tons each year, by some estimates. Most of the dyes persist in the environment because of the inefficient, non-environmentally friendly conventional wastewater treatment processes and the fact that the dyes are designed to hold up to light, temperature and detergents - the very things that might be used to clean them.
Rhodamine B (RhB), a chemical reaction occurred. Researchers found that 80% of RhB was degraded within six hours, and the remaining 20% degraded slowly, completely disappearing after 49 days. "The research focused on toxic dye removal because it is a persistent challenge for the textile industry," Ramkumar noted. Removing the color compounds is one of the most difficult tasks confronted by wastewater treatment plants because the dyes and pigments do not easily biodegrade. It's also one of the most important tasks because of the threat these dyes can pose to the human ecosystem. "Some dyes are highly mutagenic and toxic," Lou explained. "RhB is a highly water? soluble chemical compound and widely used colorant in textiles. However, the wastewater with RhB may cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory tracts of human beings and animals. Moreover, several health issues, such as neurotoxicity, carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity and developmental toxicity, arise due to RhB wastewater."
Previously, the process of decaying the dye has used predominantly ultraviolet (UV) rays. In collaboration with researchers in the departments of chemical engineering andmechanical engineering, SeshadriRamkumar, a professor in the Texas Tech Department of Environmental Toxicology, and doctoral candidate Lihua Lou have found a way to decay the dye by filtering the water through special nanofiber webs and exposing it to visible light - a process called "photodegradation."
Based upon their success with RhB, the team's next step is to try the same method with other types of synthetic and natural dyes, including methyl orange, methylene blue and reactive blue 19.
Ramkumar says there are several reasons using visible light is superior to using UV rays.
"Our research is multidisciplinary and addresses an important problem for the global textile sector," Ramkumar said. "After finishing the photodegradation process, the composite can be easily removed from water without leaving much harmful residue."
"It is green, renewable and environmentally friendly," Ramkumar said. "Using visible light for photodegradation is not harmful, and it's cost-effective and easy to operate. It makes the color removal in the industry economical." Ramkumar's lab, the Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory, specializes in technical textiles. For this study, Lou added nanoparticles into a polymer solution, which was then electrospun into nanofibers. When the composite nanoparticle/nanofiber webs were immersed in water containing a reddish dye called July - August 2019
These results are important for several reasons. In addition to the nanoparticle/nanofiber web's success in removing the dye using visible light is its ability to do so without much secondary contamination.
Support for this research was provided by the Texas Tech Graduate School and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. About the Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory Ramkumar's laboratory has been carrying out research with nanofibers and advanced fibrous materials for two decades. Early work included the creation of Fiber 155
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Using specially created nanofiber webs allows sunlight to decay the dyes safely, inexpensively and easily.
NEWS Tect, a nonwoven decontamination wipe capable of cleaning highly toxic chemical agents. More recent work has involved the development of environmentally friendly oil absorbent wipes and the incorporation of natural biocides in nanofibers to develop materials that can be used in wound healing. Find Texas Tech news, experts and story ideas at Texas Tech Today Media Resources or follow us on Twitter.
CONTACT: SeshadriRamkumar, Professor, Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory, Department of Environmental Toxicology, C ollege of Arts & Sciences, Texas Tech University, (806) 445-1925 or s.ramkumar@ttu.edu
Seminar on Implications of the Union Budget ITAMMA organized a Seminar on 'Implications of the Union Budget 2019-20' on Tuesday, July, 23, 2019 atRoyal Banquets by M.C. Ghia Hall, Kalaghoda, Mumbai - 400 001. Mr. Jugal Kishor Pansari, President, ITAMMA mentioned in his Welcome Address that our members are fromdifferent disciplines viz Manufacturers, Traders, Agents, Merchandisers and Consultants and so it is a very herculeantask while addressing the outcome of the Budget. However we have been doing this assignment successfully since lastsix decades under the guidance of stalwarts like Advocate Shailesh Sheth, CA
Mr. Nihar Jamusaria and Mr. Paresh Vakharia and others. CA Mr. Nihar Jamusaria, Member, Central Council of ICAI, VP - Direct Tax (Planning), Reliance Industries Limiteddelivered his presentations on "Union Budget 2019-20 - Analysis of the Proposals related to Direct Taxes" covering indetails about aspects related to Return filing for International travel, procedures for linking PAN with AADHAR Card,IT E-filing, contractual/professional/brokerage/commission fees, etc., Annual Information Report (AIR) to the Govt., registration & IT benefits for Trust, etc.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
SETEX at ITMA Barcelona 2019 SETEX's product pipeline has never been better. At the show, SETEX not only announced products that are just around the corner, but also outlined some of the products that are currently under development.
the possibilities of Industry 4.0. OrgaTEX BI analyzes show the influence of a machine, a process or the production environment on the production result.
As expected, interest in our new controller E390 and C390 was high. Their special feature apart from size and resolution: They use a swiping user interface for the top, middle and bottom of the screen, which provides the user with information and operation of the running process, without losing the overall view. ◆ Intelligent software wizards allow program creation by drag-n-drop of dyeing charts. ◆ Split screen for picture-in-picture representation of machine-specific functions and video monitoring make everyday production easier. ◆ Integrated OPC/UA client and server makes it easy to get an overall plant overview and advanced communication capabilities with machines and the OrgaTEX MES software. The concept of the SETEX stand as a unit for total solutions has worked. It's not just about products, it's about management with
OrgaTEX Energy Management and the power of the Plant Navigator algorithms balance the resource consumption of water, steam, gas and electricity with the production machines.
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A strong SETEX team, including colleagues from overseas offices and service centers worldwide July - August 2019
NEWS Costs of machine downtime and penalties for late deliveries affect the effectiveness of production. To prevent this, the Orga TEX Maintenance Manager calculates when the best time for maintenance is. The integrated solution with condition monitoring of the machines, visualization at the controls and criteria evaluation in the MES system ensures, that maintenance work fits into the production process in sync with the detailed planning.
Management (MOM) - sometimes referred to as production management - involves process execution along the entire textile production chain, from fiber to product and from recipe to delivery.
Integrated digital machine documentation and recommended spare parts are contributing significantly to a more efficient production.
More information visit:www.setex-germany.com/ J. Jerzembeck, SETEX Marketing E-mail: marketing@setex-germany.com
In response to our OEM customers, we have further developed the proven camera mount technology CamCount V3 to perform image and database analysis on a single SETEX C390 DIN rail mount controller.
The new OrgaTEX-inteos Manufacturing Operations
Shraddanjali to Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta, former Chairman, SRTEPC Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) in 1995 under the aegis of Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, and he became the founder member of PDEXCIL.
The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) is saddened by the sudden demise of Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta, one of the doyens of the textiles sector, who passed away on 30-08-2019 early morning. Shri Gupta was the Chairman of SRTEPC for two terms (1998-2001 & 2009-2010). He also held the post of the President of Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO) twice. He was also the Chairman of The Indian Silk Export Promotion Council (ISEPC). Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta's journey began in 1975, when he established Vijay Silk House Group in Mumbai, which gradually spread its branches to Varanasi, Bengaluru, Surat, Tirupur to promote the export of traditional Indian textiles. His foresight for the Powerloom Sector was realised in the form of setting up of Powerloom Development July - August 2019
His contribution to the textiles industry was vast, and in appreciation of this, the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India appointed Shri Gupta Chairman of the Textiles Committee (Mar. 2001 - Aug. 2004), for providing services relating to Testing, Quality Inspection, Certification, Consultancy and Market Research. Although an astute businessman, Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta was a humble and generous person, and was always accessible to the Staff of the Council. The Textile Industry, particularly the MMF Textile Sector will feel his absence in the industry. May the Almighty rest his soul in Eternal Peace? OM SHANTI 157
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Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta
During his tenure as Chairman of SRTEPC, Shri Gupta was instrumental in spearheading the promotional programmes of the Council in organising Trade Fairs / BSMs in non-traditional markets like Latin America, Middle East, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh etc. Realising the potential of these markets, the Govt. of India subsequently formulated the Focus Market Scheme to provide special incentives to exporters to these regions.
NEWS
Space application opens online for ITMA ASIA CITME 2020 ITMA ASIA + CITME, the region's leading textile machinery exhibition, is set for its seventh presentation in Shanghai from 15 to 19 October 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre. Space application has now opened online at www.itmaasia.com. According to show owners CEMATEX and Chinese partners, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC), the mega textile machinery exhibition will continue to be the unrivalled marketing platform for textile machinery manufacturers tapping into the vibrant China market. Said Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, "Despite the economic slowdown of the Chinese market, the opportunities presented by China continue to be attractive for machinery manufacturers from around the world due to the sheer size of its market. "Having held six successful presentations of the ITMA ASIA + CITME combined show since 2008, we are confident that the upcoming exhibition will create enhanced and new marketing and networking opportunities for both Chinese and international textile and textile machinery manufacturers, especially those offering intelligent manufacturing, innovative products and smart solutions."
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The successful track record of ITMA ASIA + CITME has helped garner huge support from major players around the world, pointed out Mr Wang Shutian, Honorary President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA). He added, "ITMA ASIA + CITME has set a high standard for textile machinery exhibitions in China and
the rest of Asia. It is the sole exhibition that admits only manufacturers of products and technologies of textile machinery as exhibitors in China. Our members in China fully support the event, and we will be working closely with all leading industry associations and their members to ensure that the combined show continues to be a cost-effective showcase for their products and services in Asia." As China's textile industry continues its transformation, textile makers are sourcing for innovative solutions and upgrading their facilities to compete in today's challenging global market. The drive for better technological solutions is expected to grow in Asia, especially China. Applications for space will close on 28 February 2020. Those interested in exhibiting are requested to obtain more information from www.itmaasia.com or www.citme.com.cn. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 is organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the show. For more information on ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020, please contact: Ms Pearly Ang ITMA Services Tel: +65 6849 9367 Email: pearlyang@itma.com Ms Tang Rong Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Company Tel: + 86 10 8522 9646 Email: tangrong@ccpittex.com
Unveiled SSM-Innovations at ITMA 2019 SSM showed several new product launches for the first time ever at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona (Spain) from June 20 - 26, 2019. Large interest was generated by the powerblade winder and the SSM preciforce which had their world premieres. This year's exhibition attracted a large number of visi158
tors. SSM impressed the visitors by showing a wide range of applications and latest technology solutions to help textile producers to become more competitive. The highlight of the show was the introduction of the worldwide unique backpressure system: preciforce, for a guaranteed package consistency. The precise density July - August 2019
NEWS winding result and maximum productivity. In the filament sector SSM had to offer yarn manufacturers more possibilities; such as fancy effects made on air texturing or different features in air covering. Therefore, SSM provides a tool to fashion unique fabrics and increase the yarn producers' competitiveness. In addition, SSM provides a wide range of renowned textile machines. A detailed overview about SSM machinery and supported applications of the textile process chain can be found under Winding Solutions at www.ssm.ch. SSM would like to take this opportunity to thank everybody who visited the booth and is looking forward to future partnerships and collaborations.
control ensures that an optimal package can be produced, which leads to improved properties in the subsequent process. This feature will be optional available for selected XENO machines only. Furthermore, SSM combined the advantages of blade winding and electronic yarn traverse into powerblade: exclusively available on XENO-PB. With the SSM XENO machines, producers got the right tool in their hand for a perfect
For further information please contact: Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Business Group Components SilvanoRufo Head Marketing T +41 52 208 82 22 F +41 52 208 83 82 silvano.rufo@rieter.com www.rieter.com
Truetzschler scores at Texfair 2019
The Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA) representing the textile industry in South India organised "TEXFAIR 2019" for all textile machineries, accessories and spares manufacturer at CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore from 9th Aug to 12th Aug 2019.
Truetzschler Team at Texfair 2019 July - August 2019
Sri CholeesawararSpg. Mills books draw-frame TD 10 at Texfair 2019
Bale to sliver specialist, Truetzschler, also participated in this prestigious event with a magnificent booth. The aim was to get in touch with the important customers in south India and also to appraise them of the new products launched by Truetzschler. The company received overwhelming response from all the visitors for its array of innovative offerings.Decision makers as well as the technicians had interesting interactions with the sales team. 159
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With more than 1600 textile mills running in the Tamil Nadu, Coimbatore is the hub of all the major textile activities. The third largest city of the state, Coimbatore, is one of the most industrialized cities and is also known as the Manchester of the South.
NEWS Truetzschler gave LIVE DEMO of how easy it is to order spare parts from its portal E-spares. Various wire options for higher production and better quality from Truetzschler Card Clothing were displayed. The latest cylinder grinder TC GD along with the latest flat grinder TC FG were also show-cased on the booth. Both these equipment's can be ordered for the 1 metre and well as the 1.3 metre cylinder / doffer card widths. Visitors also showed keen interest in the latest version of the T-WINDER for cylinder and doffer wire mounting. Various energy efficient electronic motors and drives were shown to the visitors to improve the efficiency of their old machines. On the automation front the latest Truetzschler Digital
Solutions MY MILL and MY WIRES were explained to the visitors. These digital solutions can surely impact the customers in the way they handle, control and manage the production and maintenance activities of the mills. The highlight of the exhibition was that many customers booked their orders on the spot at the booth. There was no doubt in the minds of the visitors that Truetzschler keeps in mind the needs of its customers and offers value added products for their individual requirements. Therefore, it's fair to say that "Its True, It's Truetzschler".
US clothing companies push for India-US FTA for greater engagement The on-going US-China trade war provides big opportunity for India to attract US investments in garments. American clothing companies, scouting for greater investment opportunities in India following the US-China trade war, have made a case for a free trade agreement between the US and India to increase trade in the sector.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Other suggestions given by a group of fifteen American companies to Textile Minister SmritiIrani, during their meeting on Tuesday, was to improve the ease of doing business on the ground, provide higher skills to workers and draw up a sustainable growth plan for the sector, according to Tara Joseph, President, AMCHAM Hong Kong. 'Opportunity for India' "We are at an inflexion point. Manufacturing is moving away from China. There is a window of opportunity for India to attract investments in manufacturing. However, there is a lot of competition from countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia, and and India needs to do all it can to increase its relevance," Joseph said addressing a press conference. In the last four years, investments worth $30 billion in textiles had moved out of China because of various factors including rising input costs, but very little had come to India, Gautam Nair, Chair, CII Textiles Task 160
Force, pointed out. With the on-going trade war between the US and China, a greater number of American companies are looking at moving their investments from China. "On paper, India has significant strength and could be the natural successor to China. We have to speak with potential investors to find out why this has not been happening and act accordingly," Nair said. The delegation, which comprises representatives from American textile majors such as Ralph Lauren, the PVH Group (which owns brands like Calvin Klein, Timmy Hilfiger, Van Heusen and Arrow) and Carter's Inc, also discussed future possibilities with NitiAayog CEO Amitabh Kant. According to Joseph, an FTA between the US and India would promote business in the textiles sector. "Where there is a will, there is a way," she said, on being pointed out that the two countries have not even been able to work out a limited trade agreement involving a few products. The Amcham delegation also met the faculty of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) to exchange ideas on the latest trends in design.
July - August 2019
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Subject EDITOTIAL: The Textile Association (India) enters 80th year "Make in India" Innovative Products in Technical Textiles in a Sustainable way Peeling through the Warps and Woofs of Khadi - a Spirit of true Independence Meeting the Expectations in the VUCA World Plethora of Emotions - Welcome 2019 Circular Economy Calls for Responsible Production and Consumption to Spread Positive Luxury APPAREL: A Novel Method to Assess Lockstitch Seam Security Importance of Apparel Product Attributes Towards Apparel Purchase: An Empirical Study Influence of Stitch Density and Sewing Thread Count on the Seam Performance of Denim Fabric DYEING: Application of DelonixRegia Stem Shell Waste on Wool Fabric for Natural Dyeing and Ultraviolet Protection Optimisation of Dyeing and Mordanting Parameters on Cotton Fabrics Treated With Allium Cepa as a Natural Dye Source
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EFFLUENT: Evaluation of Effluents Discharged During Dyeing Process of Maheshwari Handloom Textiles of Madhya Pradesh
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FINISHING: Characteristics of Bamboo-Polyester Blended Fabrics Produced From Ring, Compact, Siro, Compact-Siro Yarn (Part-II) Enhancing Functional Performance of Sportswear Fabrics Using Polyester Micro-Fibers Yarns Antibacterial and Conductive Polyester Developed Using Nano Copper Oxide and Polypyrrole Coating
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GARMENT: Effect of Sewing Process on Tensile Properties of Sewing Threads in Denim Garment
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MANAGEMENT: Need of Skill Development in Hand Made Carpet Industry : A Socio -Economic Perspective Impact of absenteeism on garment industry with special reference to Kolhapur District Supply Chain Management in Handloom Sectors - A Review
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NON WOVEN: A Study of Air Permeability and Ventilation Resistance of Needle Punched Nonwovens
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REVIEW ARTICLE: Polypropylene in Apparel Fabrics and Its Future Prospects- An Overview A Review on Khadi Fabrics in India
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July - August 2019
Authors
Issue
Page
K. L. Viduraswatha R.V. Adivarekar
1 2
2 86
R. V. Adivarekar
3
170
M. D. Teli R. V. Adivarekar M. D. Teli
4 5 6
251 325 420
Samuel Wesley D. & Rengasamy R. S. Dr. M. Krishnakumar
3 4
185 276
Dr. Shweta Tuteja & Ms. PoulomiSen
6
442
M. D. Teli & PintuPandit
1
18
Govardhana Rao Chilukoti, B. Venkatesh & V. Sai Chandana
5
333
Vidya R. Thakur
5
358
S. S. Lavate, P. V. Kadole & M. B. Bhongle
3
191
S. Yahia, F. A. Metwally, M. A. Saad, K. Nassar, M. H. Kasem & Marwa A. Ali Ravindra D. Kale, Akshay Vade &Prerana B. Kane
4
266
5
340
Effect of Sewing Process on Tensile Properties of Sewing Threads in Denim Garment
4
260
Anu Mishra & B. C. Ray
1
24
Prof. PravinJadhav
2
116
Sanjay Mukhopadhyay& Sankar Roy Maulik
5
347
V. K. Dhange & Dr. P. V. Kadole
6
435
R. N. Kanungo & (Dr) S. R. Vengsarker Debashish Mahalanobish, Prof. Prasun Kanti Bhattacharya & Dr. Prabir Kumar Choudhuri
2
105
3
198 161
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION VOLUME 79 - MAY 2018 TO APRIL 2019 SUBJECT INDEX
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SPINNING: Effect of Loom Speed and GSM on Needle Punched Nonwoven Fabric by Factorial Design Technique Evaluation of Fibre Configuration on different Card Rate Electrospinning of Polystyrene and Modification in Physical Properties Characteristics of Bamboo-Polyester Blended Spun Yarns on Ring, Compact, Siro, Compact Siro Spinning Systems Thermal Comfort Properties of Compact and Ring Yarn Woven Fabrics Comparative Study of Quality Properties for Open-end Spun Yarns Produced from Blending Natural and Synthetic Fibers
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TEXPERIENCE: Texperience - Effective Management of a Textile Institution Texperience - Why do Companies Collapse? Texperience - People & Productivity Texperience - Sustainable Polyester - Emerging Fashion Texperience - Nocturnal Black Ghost Texperience - Carbon Credit Information
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TEXNOTE: Chapter 8: Graphene: A Wonder Material: Nanocomposite
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Chapter 9: Graphene: A Wonder Material: Battery Electrodes Chapter 10: Graphene: A Wonder Material: Fuel Cell Catalyst Chapter 11: Graphene: A Wonder Material: Solar Cells
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Chapter 12: Graphene: A Wonder Material: H2 Storage
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Chapter 13: Graphene: A Wonder Material: EMI Shielding
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WEAVING: Study on Polyamide-Cellulose and Polyester-Cellulose Blends for Uniform Cloth of Defense Personnel Analysis of Factors Influencing Needle Penetration Force through Woven Fabrics Optimization of Waste in Draw Texturizing Process
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1
5
2 3
101 173
4
255
5
327
Eman Y. Abd-Elkawe & Nermin M. Aly
6
423
S. Srinivasan
1
28
R. N. Yadav R. N. Yadav Ashok Athalye R. N. Yadav Vilas V. Gharat
2 3 4 5 6
123 207 283 364 449
SaptarshiMaiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli SaptarshiMaiti, PintuPandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli Saptarshi Maiti, PintuPandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli SaptarshiMaiti, PintuPandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli SaptarshiMaiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli
1
30
2
125
3
209
4
285
5
366
6
452
M. S. Parmar, Maheshwar Singh & NidhiSisodia Mickail Karypidis & George Savvidis
1
11
2
89
Rahul Pawar, RanjitTurukmane, Sujit Gulhane & Mr. S. K. Dey Rakesh Patil, Sanjay Basak, Tushar C. Patil, Prafull P. Kolte Sujit Gulhane, Vishal Patil, Prafull Kolte & Jaikisan Gupta
2
98
3
180
6
432
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
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Role of Preparatory Process for Improving Loom Performance Impact of Card Neps Removal Efficiency on Yarn Quality
Chetan Mahajan, Mohit Joshi, Sujit Gulhane & Ranjit Turukmane S. R. Fulari & R. K. Valsang M. D. Teli, Gayatri T. Nadathur, Adhiraj Shinde & Pintu Pandit S. S. Lavate, P. V. Kadole & M. B. Bhongle Najwa Ali Abu Nassif
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FORM IV (See Rule 8) Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION 1.
Place of Publication
:
The Textile Association (India), Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028.
2.
Periodicity of Publication
:
Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year)
3.
Printer's Name Nationality Address
: : :
Shri Ashok Bagwe Indian Sundaram Art Printing Press 12, WadalaUdyogBhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala, Mumbai - 400 031.
4.
Publisher's Name Nationality Address
: : :
Shri J.B. Soma Indian 7-A/203, New DindoshiGiridarshan CHS. Ltd. New Dindoshi MHADA Colony, Near NNP No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 065
5.
Editor's Name Nationality Address
: : :
Dr. Ravindra V. Adivarekar Indian Dept. of Fibres& Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019
6.
Name and address of individuals who : own the newspaper and partners holding more than 1% of the total capital
The Textile Association (India), Central Office 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road, ShivajiPark, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028
Mumbai 1stAPRIL 2019
July - August 2019
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. (Sd/-) J.B. SOMA Publisher
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FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA VIBRANT Terry Towel - Global Expo & Summit 2019 Date : 25th to 27th September, 2019 Venue : Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskutik Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari Sugar Factory Area, Hotgi Road, Solapur - 413 224 Maharashtra, India Contact : Mr. Rajesh Goski, CEO - VTT GES 2019 Textile Development Foundation, P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road, Solapur - 413 006 Mobile : +91-9422459001 E-mail : rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.com, Website : www.vibrantterrytowel.com 5th Edition - Intex South Asia 2019 Date : 13th to 15th November, 2019 Venue : BMICH (Sirimavo Bandaranaike Exhibition Centre) Colombo, Sri Lanka Contact : Mr. Narendra Sharma, Project Associate Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. 309, Parvati Premises, Sun Mill Complex, Lower Parel (W), Mumbai - 400 013 Tel. : +91-22-4037670 Ext.702, Mobile : +91-9821232723 E-mail : intexfair@worldexindia.com Website : www.intexfair.com
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Great India Textile Show Date : 15th to 17th November, 2019 Venue : Station Road, Ichalkaranji, Dist.: Kolhapur (MH) Contact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha Essential Events & Trades Fairs Mobile : +91-9324077881, +91-9718514089 E-mail : mkt.essential@gmail.com Website : www.essentialtradefairs.com 75th Platinum Jubilee All India Textile Conference Date : 15th to 16th November, 2019 Venue : Hotel The Lalit,IT Park, Chandigarh Contact : Mr. SatishMarwah, Hon. Secretary, The Textile Association (India) - PHC Unit SCO 146-147, 2nd Floor, Sector 34-A, Chandigarh - 160022 Mobile : +91- 9501056002 E-mail : taiphcconf19@gmail.com
Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani, Mobile : +91- 9833977743 E-mail : info.itmach.com Website: www.ITSE.com 3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition (ITMACH) Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawala Mobile : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401 E-mail : info.itmach.com / amey@itmach.com 7th China Homelife India & China Machinex India 2019 Date : 11th to 13th December, 2019 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai Contact : Ms. DevishaPatra, Relationship Manager MCO-Winmark Exhibitions Private Limited B-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency - 1 Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn., Santacruz (W), Mumbai - 400 054 India Mobile : 9820660107, 9869150231 E-mail : devisha.winmark@gmail.com, ABROAD 19th International Exhibition on Textile Industry Date : 25th to 28th November, 2019 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre Website : www.shanghaitex.cn International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition (ITME AFRICA) Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020 Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Contact : India ITME Society 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834 Fax : 022-2285 1578, Mobile: 7303456667 E-mail : itme@india-itme.com, itme@itme-africa.com Website : itme-africa.com
Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. 164
July - August 2019