e-journal - Jul-Aug '20 by TheTextile Association (India)

REVIEW

PEER REVIEWED

A Review on Basic Technological Principles and Present Significance of Computerised Embroidery in Indian Apparel & Textile Industry. Mr. Anirban Dutta* & Dr. Biswapati Chatterjee Department of Textile Technology, Govt. College of Engineering & Textile Technology Serampore Abstract The application of computerized embroidery for the surface ornamentation of apparel products has been very popular for the past twenty years in the Indian Apparel and Textile industry. It has been observed that a significant percentage of total apparel products in both domestic and export market involves surface embellishment through embroidery. In this present review paper a brief and informative report has been prepared to project the present status of computerised embroidery in Indian apparel and textile industry, along with an overview on the salient technological features of computerized embroidery. A very prospective and promising picture has been emerged so far as the potential of computerized embroidery in Indian Apparel & Textile industry is concerned. Also, a very specific and brief report has been prepared to represent the sequential steps involved in the technology of computerised embroidery process, features of the embroidery CAD software and types of embroidery threads generally used for computerized embroidery in present Indian Textile Industry. Keywords Computerized Embroidery, Surface ornamentation, Indian Embroidery Market , Embroidery CAD , Embroidery Threads.

1. Present Status of Embroidery in Indian Textile Market Surface ornamentation of apparel fabrics has become significantly popular in both domestic and export market for the past fifteen years or more.Also, it is evident that consumer's acceptance for embroidery work is prominently higher than that of printing or other categories of surface ornamentation techniques[1][9].

Since, India has a very rich heritage of arts and culture and also it is a land of harmony and diversification considering many traditions and cultural segments have been perfectly blended in India. Embroidery is the greatest medium through which those ancient Indian arts along with modern innovations and creations can be displayed on the Garments to enhance the aesthetic value to a significant extent. Speaking to Express Textile, Mr Ajay Agarwal, financial director, Pioneer Industries, said, "India is still a virgin market for embroideries. Traditionally, embroidery is used for ornamentation of apparel, products such as furnishings, lingerie, have not used much of embroidery. This form of embellishment is only now getting popular in menswear. Studies have shown that embroidery consumption per person in the country is Rs 8 per annum. This makes clear the huge potential of embroidery in the country, which is still to be tapped"[1].

Embroidery is considered as one of the most traditional and popular form of surface ornamentation of fabrics and garments. Moreover, it is further available form the reports that India is among the top suppliers of embroidered fabrics and garments all over theworld. This segment is getting more importance and organized, with the entry of large business houses into this segment. It is reported that presently India's embroidery market growing at a rate near about 15 to 20% per annum [1].

The volume of the Indian embroidery market is reported to be around Rs 800-900 crore per annum [1]. However, a large portion of domestic market is still open and inclusion of which may make the volume of Indian Embroidery market i.e both domestic market

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Mr. Anirban Dutta Department of Textile Technology, Govt. College of Engineering & Textile Technology Serampore, India E-mail : speak.2.anirban@gmail.com

July - August 2020

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

REVIEW and export market really huge.

The embroidery design is created on specific 'digitizing' software. Artwork is represented by stitches through plotting a locus that the embroidery machine needle/s will follow when stitching the design and applying machine functions like colour changes. After completion of the digitizing work , the design is transferred to the embroidery machine in a specific 'stitch file' format or language. Some commonly used design file formats are .DST, .EMB , .ART , .ASD , .EMD , .XXX etc [3]. Once the design is in the memory of the embroidery machine, it is required to train the embroidery machine regarding which needles to use for which colour[2].

According to Mr. V. Elangovan, demands of garments with embroidery are more than that with prints in ladies and girls apparels. Embroidery is preferred over prints because of eco-friendly characteristics and raised three dimensional effects of embroidery motifs compared to similar kind of print motifs [1]. It can be further added that embroidery design has become an integral part of our visual world, due to its wide application on clothing, accessories and home textiles. When compared with print, embroidery is more rich with it's three dimensional effect; offering high lustre and/or textured effects. It is associated with quality, adding value to a product in both the aesthetic and tactile domains of consumer appreciation.[2]

In this training stage, the operator needs to allocate each needle for a particular colour position in the motif. For example, if there are total four colours to be used in the embroidery motif, total four different colour positions are to be created by the designer. One needle will be used for one time only, which means if 1st needle is running for the first color position then that needle will complete embroidery for all the portion of the motif where that particular color position is used. After completion of the 1st colour postion the needle for second colour position will start working in similar way. And this continues until all the color positions are sewn.

2. Introduction to Computerized Embroidery As the demand of embroidery has been increasing in past few years, the volume of embroidered garments and fabrics also increased significantly. It was therefore essential to enter into the domain of bulk production and hence the traditional hand embroidery process were too inadequate in terms of productivity to cope up with the market demand. This paved the way for the introduction of high speed computerized embroidery machines with much higher potential of production rate compared to traditional hand embroidery.

3. Embroidery Threads Threads are the most important raw material for embroidery process and therefore it is essential to ensure the supply of thread to cope up with the growing volume of embroidery production. To manufacture a beautiful embroidered or quilted piece is truly the skillful work which involves lots of technical and creative elements. In this art form, threads are the palate with which beautiful machine embroidery and thread art are created [3]. And, just as with paint, there are many types of thread, each one with a particular use and aesthetic effect.

The embroidery we see today is mostly produced on computer aided embroidery machines. They are specially engineered machines that have a multi-needle fixed 'embroidery head' and a frame holder that moves the framed product i.e fabric or garment in either of two directionsi.e horizontal (X-axis) and Vertical (Yaxis) so that the embroidery design can be created by the up and down movement of the needles which carries the embroidery threads of required colour and thickness . The frame holder is known as a pantograph. It is very similar to a graph plotter because it moves to (plots) the exact location (co-ordinates) of the design expressed in x and y values. The design is created within a grid with x being the horizontal axis and y the vertical axis. Therefore any point on the design can be identified in values of x and y. The embroidery machine reads these co-ordinates from the design data file and moves its pantograph into position to receive each new stitch from the machines' stationary needle head [2].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

It is observed that Rayon is the most widely used most widely accepted machine embroidery thread due to its performance on high speed machines, luster and its very wide range of available vibrant colours [3][4][5]. In addition to that, Polyester threads are also gaining popularity and becoming new favourite for machine embroideries due to their higher tensile strength and vibrancy, also they are sometimes preferred due to their fade-and-bleach-resistant nature. That makes polyester a good choice for embroidering on items that 82

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REVIEW will be laundered frequently and could possibly be bleached, like children's clothing, towels and linens [4][3]. In some special usage Trilobal polyesters are also used for high speed embroidery machines due to their high strength value and also the triangular shape of their cross sections help them reflect even more light than common polyster and rayon threads. It enhances the luster and aesthetic richness [3][8].

4. 5.

4.1. Conversion of artwork into the digitized form Artwork may be in a hardcopy form, i.e printed document or in a softcopy version like in image format filesi.e. JPEG, EPS or bitmap file (files ending in .jpeg,.eps or .bmp). The design would be either scanned or opened into the specialised digitizing software and displayed on the Monitor. The process of interpreting the artwork into to digital stitches involved both technical and creative elements.

Among the natural fibres, Cotton and Silk threads are also used in case of some specific aesthetic purpose. Although, they are expensive compared to Rayon and Polyester Threads. Also, performance of cotton and silk threads in case of high speed machine embroideries are not very satisfactory, so far as the rate of thread breakages are concerned [3][4]. Apart from financial factors and the process performance factors, Silk threads are unmatched in their appearance and function. It has the stability of cotton and the strength of polyester but a shine that is unlike any of its counterparts [3][4][5].

Embroidery file formats are broadly categorized into two categories. The first, source formats, which are specific to the software used to make the digitization of the Artwork. The second, machine formats, which are specific to a particular brand of embroidery machine.Means the digital version of the design must be converted into another file type which is compatible for the embroidery machine to be used. Machine formats generally contain primarily stitch data (offsets) and machine functions (trims, jumps, etc). These files are available for use with particular embroidery machines [6].

4. Basic principles of computerized Embroidery machines Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled and exclusively engineered for embroidery process [6]. Computer-controlled embroidery also called machine embroidery is a kind of Computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM). The embroidery design is composed through specialized 'digitising' software. Basic Artwork or image of design is converted into digital mode by a plotting a route. In this digitizing process, each portion of the design motif is uniquely converted into digital co-ordinate address.The digital path hence created along with the design lines of the motif is followed by the embroidery machine needles when stitching the design and interpreting the machine functions like colour changes etc. After completion of the digitization, the design is transferred to the embroidery machine in a special 'stitch file' format or language which is compatible with the machine concerned [2][6][7]

Embroidery machines generally have one or more machine formats specific to their brand. However, some formats such as Tajima's .dst, Melco's .exp/.cnd and Barudan's .fdr have become so prevalent that they have effectively become industry standards and are often supported by machines built by other brands [6] [7]. Technical elements deal with the factors like consider the type of fabric to be used for embroidery, the scale of the design and the number of needles/colours the embroidery machine can accommodate etc. When digitising, one of the prime objectives of a designer is to both reduce and anticipate the amount of movement of the fabric.The sequence in which a design is to bestitched is also very important to control the fabric movement. As a general rule, larger areas of stitches will move the fabric (and hence the design) more than smaller ones. The designer also needs to consider the number of stitches per repeat to be assigned and the frequency the machine slows and/or stops to perform

The computerized embroidery process can be broken down into six functional activities: 1. Conversion of artwork into the digitized form using special application softwares which is compatible to the embroidery machine to be use. 2. Transferring the softcopy of the design into the CPU of the computerized embroidery machine. July - August 2020

Traning the machine regarding needle selection and allocation of needle for each of the colour portions in the design motif. Framing of the fabric inside the specified place of the Pantograph, with proper tension. Execution of embroidery process.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

REVIEW a function like a trim or a colour change, as all these elements directly or indirectly influence affect the time for completion a repeat of the embroidery motif and thus ultimately affect the machine productivity and ultimately the total cost of producing the embroidery design [2].

they have different file name endings. Therefore , the operator needs to create copy of this file in a format or language which is compatible to the corresponding embroidery machine. Each embroidery machine manufacturer has developed their own embroidery file format so there is no single industry standard. Different machines require different formats that are proprietary to that company. Common design file formats for the home and hobby market include .ART, .HUS, .JEF, .PES, .SEW, and .VIP. [5]. The below table shows different design file types compatible to different brands of embroidery machine [6] [7].

The creative elements mainly deal with the aesthetic value of the stitches to be used for digitization process. It is true to say that there is no definitive way or any specified rule to convert artwork in stitches. Even two experienced professionals, or 'digitizers' as they are known, will not produce identical results when digitizing the same artwork for the same machine and fabric. There are certain aesthetic and technical conventions but apart from these the operator is free to choose from a vast library of stitch types to create the digital version of the embroidery design. Although each block of stitches is essentially a grouping of x and y values these numbers are hidden from the digitiser and the interface with the software involves working with shapes. The algorithm of the software in the backend automatically translates the stitch shapes into corresponding x and y coordinate values [2].

Table No. 4.1: List of file types used in Embroidery CAD File Type/Extension

Company/Machine Compatibility

.ART

Bernina artista OESD

.ASD

Melco

.CND

Melco condensed

.CSD

POEM, Singer EU, Viking Huskygram

.DST

Tajima, Brother, Babylock, Melco

.EMB

Wilcom

.EMD

Elna Expressive

.EXP

Bernina, Melco

.FHE

Singer (Futura)

.GNC

Great Notions Condensed

.HUS

Viking Husqvarna

.JEF/.JEF+

Janome, New Home

.OEF

OESD Condensed

.PCD, .PCS, .PCQ

Pfaff

.PEC, .PEL, .PEM, .PES

Baby Lock, Bernina Deco, Brother, Simplicity, Melco

.PHB, .PHC

Baby Lock, Bernina Deco, Brother

4.2. Transferring the softcopy of the design into the CPU of the computerized embroidery machine. After completion of the digitization process, the embroidery design is to be transferred into the CPU of the machine. This might be done via a cable from the PC running specialist software, or via a flash card or USB stick.

.SEW

Elna, Janome, New Home, Kenmore

.SHV

Viking Husqvarna

.STI

Toyota/Data Stitch

.STX

Toyota/Data Stitch

.VIP

VIP Customizing

.VP3

Pfaff, Husqvarna Viking

What makes the process slightly more complex is that the embroidery design software and embroidery machines can't read the same software langasuge i.e.

.XXX

Singer, Compucon

Although there are some standard conventions like solid objects may be filled typically with 'satin or fill stitch', whilst an outline may use a 'run stitch' , but the designer has every freedom to choose the most suitable one as per the his or her perception about the aesthetic. The digitiser will create blocks using different stitch types, different angles of stitching and changes of colour. The stitches in the design will normally be created in the order in which they will be embroidered on the machine.The embroidery design softwares are in the process of up gradations with the inclusions of new and new features or tools and with more creative and editing tools, although the basic principles remain the same [2] [6].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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REVIEW 4.3. Training the machine Once the design istransferred in the memory of the embroidery machine the machine operator requires to train the machine about how to sew the design. This segment mainly includes the followings a)training about selection of needles and allocation of needles for different colour portions of the motif b) sequence of needles to be used. The needles are numbered and each is threaded with a different color. The embroidery design software provides the operator with a schedule of which colour is to be used in each stage of the design and the stages are numbered in sequence. To teach the machine the operator assigns the relevant needle number (colour) to each stage. Each threaded needle will run until it stitches its colour block or blocks until a colour change is needed. It will then tie off its thread and park and the next relevant needle willstrat its function and begin sewing after the fabric is moved to place the right position of fabric under it [2][6].

Figure No. 4.1: Basic Locksticth geometry used for computerised embroidery [6]

The computerized embroidery machine is driven automatically in such a way that the frame which holds the fabric can move in any direction within a specific design area specified by X and Y axis coordinate values. Also Changing the needles (for color change) and trimming of threads take place simultaneously at a speed upto about 1200 stithes per minute. It also involves a special tension mechanism which is more complex than that in case of Industrial Sewing Machines.

4.4. Framing of the fabric inside the specified place of the Pantograph The frame or hoop is a replacement for the traditional embroidery ring; the fabric to be embroidered is firmly placed inside the frame in such a way that neither any slackness in the fabric remains nor the tension becomes excessive. The objective of this is to maintain the stability of the fabric so that it can be moved about accurately by the embroidery machine pantograph. Proper Framing is also essential to eliminate the chances of the movement of the design while the stitching is under process at a very high RPM[2][6][7].

Embroidery machines are available with single or multiple heads ranging from one head upto 38 heads [2]; Industrial Embroidery machine with more than 38 heads , even upto 56 heads are available in recent time [6]. Each head produces one repeat of the embroidery design and all the heads are normally driven together so that needle movement of the heads must be identical to each other .

4.5. Execution of embroidery process The basic principle of stitch formation in case of computerized embroidery machines is the conventional 'Lock Stitch' mechanism, which includes an upper thread or Needle Thread and a bottom Bobbin Thread for the formation of the Stitch [2][8]. The Bobbin hook, which is located below the fabric being stitched, scoops the needle thread carried by the penetrating needle. The hook further carries the needle thread in a circular direction around the bobbin case and thus creates a loop through which the bobbin thread passes and makes an interlacement with the needle thread to create lockstitch on the surface of the material. The Needle thread i.e. embroidery thread is always on the top surface or face of the fabric material and Bobbin thread always remains at the back surface. The principle of Lockstitch is shown in the figure no. 4.1 [2] [6][8].

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Each head will have a specific number of needles up to 15, machines with either 9 or 15 needles being the norm. Each needle represents an individual colour in the design. If the head has 9 needles and the design involves 10colours the operator needs to rethread one of the existing needles with the 10th thread colour. Although this process is rarely recommended in case of commercial production atmosphere , since it may significantly increase the Machine stoppage time and hence decrease the rate of production [2] [6] [7].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

REVIEW conduct thorough research on the relationship and dependency of productivity and product quality of embroidered fabrics in case of Automatic Embroidery machines upon various process parameters and material (fabric) parameters to establish an algorithm which can be used for prediction and optimisation as well. References 1. Anon (2012), Embroidery Shristi, Retrieved on 18-06-2018 from <http://forum. embroideryshristi. com/coffee-corner/indian-embroidery-market/> 2. Gillian Suggett (2013), 'An introduction to Computerized Embroidery', Retrieved on 21-06-2018 from<https://www.wilcom.com/About/Blog/ BlogArticle/tabid/123/ArticleId/47/An-introductionto-Computerized-Embroidery.aspx> 3. Debbie Henry (2016), 'Stitch Perfect: The Best Machine Embroidery Thread', Retrieved on 2006-2018from <https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/ 03/best-machine-embroidery-thread/> 4. Debbie Henry (2018), 'The Best Choices for Machine Embroidery', Retrieved on 31-12-2018 from <https://www.mybluprint.com/article/nicethreads-the-best-choices-for-machine-embroidery> 5. Sharee Dawn Roberts (2015), 'Choosing Machine-Embroidery Threads', Threads #91, pp. 4447, Retrieved on 21-06-2018 from <http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4574/ choosing-machine-embroidery-threads> 6. Anon, "Machine Embroidery" ,Retrieved on 2006-2018 from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Machine_embroidery 7. Anon, "Computerized embroidery", <http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/ Computerized_embroidery> 8. Erich Campbell, (2014) "Stitch Types in Machine Embroidery and Digitizing: The Only Stitch", Retrieved on 19-06-2018 from <http://www.mrxstitch.com/ghost-embroidery-machine-stitch-types-machine-embroidery-digitizingstitch/> 9. OladiptoP.O,'Embroidery as an embellishment in fabric decoration', Retrieved on May 25, 2017, from<https://www.google.co.in/url? sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http:// www.globalacademicgroup.com/journals/pristine/

Figure No. 4.2: Multiheadcomputerised embroidery machine

Conclusion It is clearly evident that the Embroidery has become one of the most significant and commendable section of Indian as well as the Global Apparel and Textile Industry.The introduction of computerised Embroidery Machines in the late 1990s has a great significance in the growth of Indian Textile & Apparel Industry. The value addition of Garment and fabrics by the surface ornamentation process i.e embroidery, is already proved to be very effective in both domestic and export market. Much high productivity and design accuracy in case of computerised automatic Embroidery machine compared to that in case of manual Embroidery have certainly caused a paradigm shift in the domain of Indian Apparel & Textile Industry. The embroidery industry has been growing at a tremendous pace over the past 10 years. The biggest impact on the embroidery industry over the last few years has been the use of computers and CAD in the area of digitizing designs. The mechanism for creating custom designs for customers has become more user friendly through the use of computer technology and scanners. Since, the Initial investment for these types of Embroidery machines is significantly high, it is very essential to have maximum possible utilisation of the machines by minimizing the loss in productivity and ensuring the least possible rejection in quality inspection of the Embroidered products. Therefore it is essential to add some intelligence to the machine system so that it can choose the most optimum set of process parameters i.e Machine RPM, Needle size, Thread denier and ply, Thread tension etc for a particular fabric type, stitch type and design. Hence it is therefore necessary to Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EMBROIDERY%2520AS%2520AN%252 0EMBELLISHMENT%2520IN%2520FABRIC%2 520DECORATION.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj_zrHy1bfb AhULq48KHdmJD8cQFjAKegQIABAB&usg= AOvVaw0J65TtWu1W_onD7JpyZInt>

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July - August 2020

WEAVING

PEER REVIEWED

Weave Design Architectures of 3-D Woven Fabric for Composite Application Prof. S. K. Parmar1 & Prof. (Dr.) P. A. Khatwani2 Textile Technology Department, L. D. College of Engineering, (affiliated to Gujarat Technological University) Ahmedabad, Gujarat 2 Textile Technology Department, Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, (affiliated to Gujarat Technological University) Surat, Gujarat 1

Abstract This article presents brief review of recent trends in 3D woven structure (3DWS) in composites. 3DWS can be developed using various techniques namely orthogonal and angle interlock. This both structure are not only beautiful, but have potential to build complex structures. A variety of basic 3D-fabric architectures are produce depending on how the warp is set up and how the sheds are formed. Thus, it is flexible to produced different 3D fabric with plain, twill and satin weave design. The mechanical properties of 3D woven fabric and their composites depend on tow size, weave design and fibre volume fraction of structure. The composite made by 3D fabric not only overcome the issue of delamination but also reduce weight of product and the labour cost during manufacturing and to integrate more functionality into the component. Keywords Angle interlock Fabric, Composite, 3D Weaving, Orthogonal Fabric, Weave Structure.

1. Introduction 2D textile structures are mainly made of woven, knitted, braided, multiaxial/triaxial, chopped mats and unidirectional fabric. These 2D textile reinforced structures are being used in composite for several decades but their use in structural applications has been limited because of some inferior mechanical properties such as poor out-of-plane properties, matrix dominated interlaminar shear stresses, delamination, etc., issues when compared with traditional alloys material use in aerospace and automotive industry. In recent year, overcome all these problems of 2D structure, 3D structures are being given considerable attention.

tufting are gaining most attention. From all textile techniques, one variant is 3D woven structure (3DWS) which has a very high potential for exploitation in developing 3D woven composites due to the advantage of it being producible on a 2D weaving machine with some modifications[2]. Some of researchers also produce 3D woven fabric by using specialized 3D weaving, and non-interlacing "noobing" method. 3D woven fabric involved two sets of warp yarns namely stuffers and binders in along with weft (fillers yarn). Stuffers are straight and fillers are laid perpendicular to these without any interlacement and the binder yarn which travels from top to bottom interlacing weft yarns to hold the structure. The binder yarn takes path through the thickness and stuffer yarn along the length. Thus 3D woven structure proved to be superior structure due their substantial thickness, good dimensional stability and tailorability of the weave architecture. When used as reinforcement material, it gives advantages to produce near net profile and to control fibre contents in each direction.

3D structure normally provides continuous fibrous assemblies in all three - X, Y and Z directions, which are bound together by suitable means forming a cohesive structure. There are several ways to obtain 3D structure[1]. However, 3D structure produced using the textile techniques of weaving, braiding, stitching and * All the Correspondence should be addressed to: Prof. S. K. Parmar, Textile Technology Department, L. D. College of Engineering, (affiliated to Gujarat Technological University), Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India. E-mail : address: skp25185@gmail.com Phone No : +91 07383117171

July - August 2020

This paper discuss critical analysis of different weave structure produced by orthogonal and angle interlock principles. It is also important to study feasibility of development of 3D woven structure on conventional weaving machine and to produce appropriate structure of 3D woven fabric for particular application. 87

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING 2. Classification of 3 D Woven Structure (3DWS) [3] 3D solid woven composites in which longitudinal yarns (X) - warp at 0 degree, transverse yarns (Y) - weft at 90 degree and through-thickness yarns (Z) known as binder are interlaced with a specific weaving architecture. 3D woven structure (3DWS) can be classified according to the angle between the binder yarns and the in-plane yarns ''warp/weft" into two main groups. When the interlacement angle is 90 degree, the 3D solid woven is called Orthogonal structure (Fig 1a); other than that, it is referred to as Angle Interlock structure. Angle interlock structure can be further subdivided into layer to layer (LTL) where binder goes between layers (Fig 1b) or through-thickness (TT) where binder goes through the entire thickness (Fig.1c).

(a) Orthogonal

This interlacing process to produce 3DWS woven fabric can be done at faster rates since the existing weaving technology were adopted. As such, design flexibility to produce various weaving architecture is achieved, and near-net-shape preforms can be attained. 3. Manufacturing of 3D Woven Structure (3DWS) Different researchers tried different ways to achieve 3D woven structure. Many research programmers have developed a substantial array of 3D reinforced weave architectures that can only be produced on specialist machines [4,5] but these machines are not commercially available. However, orthogonal and angle interlock architectures have been widely used in composite industry as reinforcement material. An attempt is made by Greenwood [6] to produce 3D fabric based on orthogonal structure in which all the set of yarns are mutually perpendicular to each other in all three directions X, Y and Z. There is no any crimp present in this type structure. Another improved way to achieve orthogonal structure is given by Chen. He developed different weave structures using conventional looms and CAD/CAM software successfully [7,8,9]. Some different types of methods are developed by Khokar to achieve 3D fabrics[2].

(b) Angle Interlock - (c) Angle Interlock Layer-to-Layer (LTL) Through-Thickness (TT)

3-Dimensional Woven Structure (3DWS) fabrics can be produced either by developing some new 3D weaving machine or by modifying the conventional weaving machine. The use of conventional weaving technology includes advantage of the readily availability of manufacturing technology to generate the variety of 3D structures. Various researchers also claimed that the technology route using the conventional weaving lead to low cost of 3D architectures [10]. The University of Manchester has been working in this area and has created techniques and tools for creating different categories of 3D woven fabrics. 3DWS produced on convention weaving machine required special attention and it depend upon weave design which is selected for particular type of 3D woven fabric.

Figure 1: Classification of 3D woven structure based on the binder path[3].

The Interlacement of yarn used during the weaving process can also affect the classification of 3D woven structure. For Orthogonal structure, the frequency of the binder yarns interlacement in the top and bottom surfaces of the weave can vary from plain (Fig. 2a) to twill (Fig. 2b) or satin (Fig. 2c) pattern. This weave pattern will directly affect the unit-cell size, degree of crimp, elastic response and damage/delamination resistance.

(a) Plain

(b) Twill

3.1 Weave Design of Orthogonal Woven Structure 3D orthogonal structure is developed on simple handloom weaving machine by at least two warp beams namely warp yarn (Also known as Stuffer yarn) and binder yarn. The main concept of orthogonal fabric is to bind straight warp yarns (X - direction) and weft yarns (Y - direction) together using binder yarns (Z-direction). The warp and weft yarns provide high in-plane stiff-

Figure 2: Type of weave pattern by binder yarn for orthogonal structure [3].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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WEAVING indicates binder yarn. The 3D view and lifting plan of orthogonal woven structure are shown in Fig. 4a & Fig. 4c respectively. In this paper, All 3 Dimensional views of 3D woven structure are drawn using TexGen software.

ness and strength, and the binder yarns run through the thickness direction to stabilize the woven structure and improve out plane properties. 3D orthogonal woven composites have higher inter-laminar fracture toughness and impact damage resistance than laminated composites [10]. The systematic arrangement to develop 3D orthogonal structures is shown in figure 3. Some modifications have been done in conventional loom to develop 3D structures. Modifications were made to incorporate an extra beam for binder tows. The lower beam is used for the ground warp, which was arranged in longitudinal direction in different layers. The upper beam is used for the binder warp, which traveled vertically and is used to bind the warp and weft yarns. Dead weights were attached to this beam carefully to maintain adequate tension level in the binder tows so as to have proper let off during weaving.

(a) 3Dimensional (b) yarn architecture in view, cross section

Figure 4 : Idealized weave designs of orthogonal structure

As shown in fig. 4b, for three stuffer yarn repeat size of weft yarn is 8 pick and four pick are arrange one above another. Similarly if number of stuffer yarn increase to 4, 5 and 6, the repeat size of weft yarn becomes 10, 12 and 14 picks respectively in orthogonal structure. Thus the thickness and fibre volume fraction of orthogonal fabric depend on number stuffer yarn which is incorporated in design. Another important parameter is linear density of warp, weft and binder yarn. Practically the liner density of binder yarn always kept finer as compare to warp/stuffer and weft yarn.

Figure 3 : Line diagram of handloom used for weaving 3D woven structure [11]

3.2 Weave Design of Angle Interlock Woven Structure The basic arrangement to produce 3D fabric using angle interlock structure is same as used in orthogonal fabric, means to use two warping beam, which is shown in fig. 3. In angle interlock structure, Several warp layers (longitudinal yarns) are laying up of one above the other and interlacing them together with multiple wefts (transverse yarns) in predefined patterns (Fig 5) so as to form one thick preform with no identifiable individual layers.

Total number of heald frames is divided in two groups, one for warp/stuffer yarn and second for binder yarn. Thus, the number of heald frames depends on number stuffer yarns per repeat unit and number of binder yarns to be produced. The selections of reed depend upon thread density and yarn linear density. The denting ordered set in such a way that group of warp threads are passed through one dent and consecutive dents used for binder yarns. Lifting plan of the heald frames is decided in such a way that five-ground warp layers are arranged one above the other and the picks are inserted in between them. There is no interlacement in between the warp and weft layers. The idealized weave design of orthogonal structure with three stuffer and two binder yarn are shown in Fig 4, where S1, S2 and S3 indicates warp/stuffer yarn, vertical 1 to 8 indicates weft/filler yarn and B1 and B2 July - August 2020

(a) Through-Thickness (TT)

(b) Layer-to-Layer (LTL)

Figure 5 : Schematic representation of Angle-interlock structure 89

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING Weaving of angle-interlock fabric is always carried out along the warp way, where warp yarns traverses/interlace through the thickness of the fabric and the weft path remains straight. Angle-interlock structures are represented by generating the weft cross-section diagrams. In this diagram, weft yarn represent by simple dot and warp yarn show in wave like structure - represent by line in several row at an angle. All the warp yarns travel in a similar fashion but most importantly would be parallel to each other. This ensures interlocking of the weft although individual interlacements do not happen as in the case of regular fabric constructions. These fabrics can be broadly categorized into two types based on the warp yarn path in the structure, viz., through-thickness (TT) and layer-to-layer (LTL). The difference lies in the warp yarn path as shown in Fig 5a and 5b. 3.2.1 Angle Interlock Through-Thickness (TT) Structure In the case of Through-Thickness structures each warp yarn travels throughout the thickness in a repetitive cycle binding all the layers together. Further variations to a through-thickness structure can be done by the addition of stuffer yarns in warp direction. Thus there are two varieties were developed like: With stuffer yarn (Fig. 6) & Without stuffer yarn (Fig. 7)

The idealized weave design of angle interlock structure, through-thickness (TT) with three stuffer and five binder yarn are shown in Fig 6, where S1, S2 and S3 indicates warp/stuffer yarn, B1 to B5 indicates binder yarn and vertical 1 to 20 indicates weft/filler yarn. The 3D view and lifting plan of angle interlock (TT) structure are shown in Fig. 6a & Fig. 6c respectively. It is noted that for three stuffer yarn, repeat size of weft yarn is 20 pick and four pick are arrange one above another in offset way. Similarly if number of stuffer yarn increase to 4, 5 and 6, the repeat size of weft yarn becomes 30, 42 and 56 picks respectively in Angle interlock (TT) structure.

(a) 3Dimensional view

(b) Cross section view

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

(a) 3Dimensional view 90

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WEAVING There is also the possibility of arranging the weft yarn in vertical direction without any offset and for that type of structure weave design and lifting plan become change. The stuffer yarns are normally straight and they can be used to increase fiber volume fraction and in-plane strength. This thick fabric structure, when used in composites are expected to have improved shear, delamination resistance, impact damage tolerance and better heat distribution due to their interlaced constructions. These properties are required for structural applications (Eg: wing sections) as well as thermal applications (Eg: exit nozzels, exhaust cones, brake pads etc.,).

(b) Cross section view

3.2.2 Angle Interlock Layer-to-Layer (LTL) Structure This type of structures also known as 3D warp interlock structure, where each warp yarn travels upto an intermediary position and does not travel throughout the total thickness in a repetitive cycle. This can be observed in the Fig 5b marked with different color lines. Layer-to-layer structures are more versatile with several possible combinations of warp yarn paths binding two or more adjacent weft layers. In warp interlock structure, Stuffer yarns can also be introduced in the warp direction as shown in Fig 7a. Thus this type of structure, further developed in two varieties like: With stuffer yarn (Fig. 8) & Without stuffer yarn (Fig. 9)

(a) 3Dimensional view (b) Cross section view (C) lifting plan

Figure 8 : Angle interlock structure: Layer-to-Layer (LTL) with Stuffer yarn (C) lifting plan

The idealized weave design of angle interlock: Layerto-Layer (LTL) structure of three stuffer yarn, and four binder yarn with weave repeat of 8 picks is shown in Fig, 8, Where S1, S2 and S3 indicates stuffer yarn, B1 to B4 indicates binder yarn and 1 to 8 indicates weft/filler yarn. The 3D view and lifting plan of angle interlock (LTL) structure with stuffer yarn are shown in Fig. 8a & Fig. 8c respectively. During drawing-in process two set of heald frame has to be used for stuffer and binder yarn. Total number of heald frame depends on number of stuffer and binder yarns. The reed profile is made in such a way that consecu-

Figure 7: Angle interlock structure: Through-Thickness (TT) without stuffer yarn

The idealized weave design of angle interlock structure, through-thickness (TT) without stuffer yarn is shown in Fig 7, where B1 to B5 indicates warp/binder yarn and vertical 1 to 20 indicates weft/filler yarn. The 3D view and lifting plan of angle interlock (TT) structure without stuffer yarns are shown in Fig. 7a & Fig. 7c respectively. July - August 2020

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING ◆

tive stuffer yarns are passed through one dent and in the next dent a binder yarns are made to pass. Group of yarns passed through one dent will depends on number of stuffer yarns, binder yarn and reed count. In this way, the binder yarn is arranged diagonally in the structure and helps to hold the stuffer warp and weft layers of the yarn.

◆

Conclusion Several researchers successfully used conventional weaving techniques to develop various 3D woven structures by making few changes on loom. In 3D weaving, introduction of binder yarns in thickness direction improve delamination and damage tolerance properties. The performance of 3DWS in any given direction is attributable to the textile weave architecture by yarn paths, which can be altered and designed - yarn spacing, count etc., to meet the specific requirement within some practical limits. Between orthogonal and interlock fabrics of same stuffer layer as well as same fibre volume fraction, the former showed better ultimate tensile strength. The results claim that mechanical properties of 3-D woven fabrics are superior in terms of breaking load and energy absorption as compared to those of 2-D woven fabrics. Hence, it is used in advance composite application. Some limitations like heavy tow and the fibre orientation in the process of 3D weaving of carbon and glass fibre for manufacturing composites are also observed by researchers.

(a) 3Dimensional view (b) Cross section view (c) lifting plan Figure 9: Layer-to-Layer (LTL) Angle interlock structure Without Stuffer yarn

Fig. 9 shows the typical weave design of angle-interlock: layer-to-layer (LTL) structure without stuffer yarn. This type of fabric will be produce using 4 heald shaft for binder/warp yarn and repeat size of 8 pick. Here layer to layer interlocking is taken place. Thus, it is known as warp interlock structure. It should be noted that weave design provides the required input for a weaver to weave 3D woven preforms. Once the structure is finalised and the warp paths are drawn, the weave design can be generated based on the standard conventional principles. Cross sectional view design indicates the interlacement pattern of warp and weft threads. The Draft and denting plan ensure fibre volume fraction of each component yarn in fabric.

References 1. A.P. Mouritz, M.K. Bannister, P.J. Falzon, and K.H. Leong, Review of applications for advanced three-dimensional fibre textile Composites, Composites: Part A 30, 1445-1461 (1999). 2. N. Khokar. 3D-weaving: Theory and practice. Journal of the Textile Institute, 92(1):193207(2001). 3. Saleh, M. N., & Soutis, C., "Recent advancements in mechanical characterisation of 3D woven composites", Mechanics of Advanced Materials and Modern Processes, 3 (1), 1947 (2017). doi:10.1186/s40759-017- 0027-z 4. Mohammed M.H., Zhang Z.H.; "Method of forming Variable Cross-sectional Shaped Three-dimensional Fabrics"; United state patent 5085252; 4th February 1992. 5. Burgess K.E.; "Fiber-reinforced Composite Structures and Methods of Making The Same"; USP

4. Essential requirements for producing 3D woven structure[12] Main objectives of this paper is to understand different structure of 3 D woven fabric and modifications required on existing 2D looms to commercialise the technology. In this regard the following observations are made in addition to the existing features of the 2D loom. ◆ Adjustable tensioning device were required to control tension of individual warp beam because distribution and unwinding of binder and stuffer warp yarns are different depend on 3D woven structure.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

As per the weave architecture lifting patterns of the warp yarns changes compared to regular weaves and required more number of heald frames. Preferably, Electronic dobby or jacquard can be better option. Beat up & Take-up synchronies in such a way that it would be stacking the requisite number of weft layers as designed to obtain the 3DWS.

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WEAVING

6. 7.

10.

11.

12. 13.

5346774; 13 September 1994 Greenwood K.; United state patent 3818951; June 1974. Chen X., Knox R. T., McKenna D.F., Mather R.R.; "Automatic Generation of Weaves for the CAM of 2D and 3D Woven Textile Structures"; Journal of Textile Institute; 1996; 87; Part 1; No. 2; p356-370 Chen X., Potiyaraj P.; "CAD/CAM of the Orthogonal and Angle-interlock Woven Structures for Industrial Applications"; Textile Research Journal; 69 (9); 648-655, (1999). Chen X., Zanini I.; "An Experimental Investigation into the Structure and Mechanical Properties of 3D Woven Orthogonal Structures"; Journal of Textile Institute; 88; Part 1; No.4; 449-464(1997). Chen X.; "CAD/CAM of 3D woven fabrics for conventional loom"; "The first world conference on 3D fabrics and their application"; 10-11 April 2008. Sanjay Parmar & Shweta Doctor., "3-Dimensional Solid Woven Architectures and Manufacturing", Journal of Textile Association, vol. 73(5), pp 307-313 (2013). h t t p s : / / p d f s . s e m a n t i c s c h o l a r. o r g / 7 a 5 1 / 597fcc75accb25fd348e496208df451db230.pdf B.K. Behera & B.P. Dash, "An experimental

14.

15.

16.

17.

investigation into structure and properties of 3Dwoven aramid and PBO fabrics", Journal of The Textile Institute, 104:12, 1337-1344 (2013) DOI:10.1080/00405000.2013.805873 Rajesh Mishra, Vijay Baheti, B.K. Behera & Jiri Militky, "Novelties of 3-D woven composites and nanocomposites", The Journal of The Textile Institute, 105:1, 84-92, (2014). DOI: 10.1080/ 00405000.2013.812266 El-Dessouky HM, Saleh MN. "3D Woven Composites: From Weaving to Manufacturing", In: Rita Khanna R, Cayumil R, editors. Recent Developments in the Field of Carbon Fibers: Intech Open; 2018. p. 51-66. Naveen V. Padaki, R. Alagirusamy, B.L. Deopura and Raul Fangueiro, "Influence of Preform Interlacement on the Low Velocity Impact Behavior of Multilayer Textile Composites", Journal of Industrial Textiles, 40 (2), 171-185, (2010) Ashwini Kumar Dash & Bijoya Kumar Behera, "Role of stuffer layers and fibre volume fractions on the mechanical properties of 3D woven fabrics for structural composites applications", The Journal of The Textile Institute, 110:4, 614-624, (2018). ❑❑❑

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DYEING

Effect of Dye Extraction Techniques on the Colour Yield of Pterocarpus Marsupium Roxb. Nadiya Kandasamy & Kalaiarasi Kaliappan* Department of Textiles and Clothing Avinash ilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women, Coimbatore Abstract Nowadays, emergence of natural dye poses a gaining importance because of non-pollutant, non-allergic, eco-friendly process used for colouring the product. Conventional, enzymatic, magnetic stirring, ultrasound assisted and enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted extraction method was carried out to extract dye from Pterocarpus marsupiumRoxb. saw dust. Premordanting technique was followed for dyeing the silk fabric with extracted dye solutions at 80ยบC for 20 minutes in Rota dyer machine.Colour strength and colour coordinates of the dyed fabrics were measured using Premier Colorscan SS 5100H dual beam spectrophotometer. Colourfastness tests including fastness to light, washing, rubbing and perspiration were assessed for dyed fabrics. The results proved that among the different extraction techniques, Enzyme-mediated ultrasoundassisted extraction method is the effective method for the extraction of dye from Pterocarpus marsupiumRoxb. saw dust for silk fabric. Keywords Colour strength, Colourfastness, Extraction, Natural dye, Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust

1. Introduction A dye can generally be described as colouring material which is soluble in nature that has chemical affinity and used to add colour to the substrate. Natural dyes are eco-friendly, biodegradable, less toxic, non-allergic and easily available [10] [11]. Dyes derived from natural sources are regaining popularity for its application not only in colouration of textiles [13], but also as pharmaceutical, food ingredients, cosmetics [8], paint, ink, plastics, paper, photographic industries and leather [10] [4]. Natural dyes are an effective alternate to the harmful synthetic dyes which pollute the environment. Conventional extraction methods are ineffective and involve high extraction time and low extraction efficiency. Traditional extraction methods use inorganic solvents for separation and purification which are toxic in nature for the environment and also consume high energy. There is a need for effective extraction techniques for natural dye extraction that are commercially viable. The use of biological enzymes helps to reduce

pollution and also effectively function at the plant's cell level, disrupting the cell wall at relatively lower temperatures and reduces the resistance for extraction of colourants from the cells. Ultrasound waves have higher penetration capacity when compared to electromagnetic waves and breaks down the components of the plant cell resulting in easier and effective extraction of the colourant. Many researches substantiate the fact that the dye yield is significantly improved through the use of non-conventional extraction techniques [6]. Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb.popularly known as Indian Kino Tree or Malabar Tree in English; Vijayasar or Bija in Hindi and Asana in Sanskrit is indigenous to India, Nepal and Sri Lanka. In the Western Ghats, it is grown in deciduous and evergreen forests of southern region of India specifically in the states of Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar and Orissa [3] [5] [1] [12]. Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb.is exploited for timber and medicinal purposes. The heartwood is used as astringent, anti-inflammatory, anthelmintic, anodyneand acrid. It is used for the treatment of elephantiasis, leucoderma, diarrhoea, dysentery, rectalgia, cough and greyness of hair [12]. The bark of the Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. treeis rough, grey, longitudinally fissured and scaly. The bark yields a reddish brown colouring matter and occasionally employed for dyeing

* All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Dr. Kalaiarasi Kaliappan Assistant Professor, Department of Textiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women, Coimbatore-641043, Tamil Nadu, India Email : drkkalaiarasi@gmail.com Phone No. : 07010220363

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

July - August 2020

DYEING ◆ Enzyme Assisted Extraction (EAE) Solution of pectinase: cellulase (2:1) enzyme of 2% was prepared and sprayed on Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust (25g) and then left for 12 hours to allow the enzyme to react on dye source. The enzyme sprayed saw dust was soaked overnight in 250ml of 1% sodium carbonate solution and then placed in the water bath heating at constant temperature of 90ºC for 60 minutes and filter edusing muslin cloth.

[7]. The saw dust of Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. has no or little use and is available in plenty as a waste material. Hence the present study aims to explore the possibilities of the saw dust as natural dye source and to select suitable extraction technique for the dye extraction. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Sample preparation Degummed silk fabric (100%) was purchased for the experimental work from Gandhipuram Sarvodhaya Sangh, Vadavalli, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India. The saw dust of Pterocarpus marsupium (Figure 1) was sourced from the Sivasamy saw mill, Alandurai, Coimbatore, India. The saw dust was sievedto obtain a dye source powder of uniform size and also remove any other adhering substances present in it.Sodium carbonate was used for extraction and it was purchased from Hi Media Laboratories Private Limited, Mumbai. Pectinase and cellulase enzymes were supplied by Resil chemicals private limited, Bangalore, India and stored as per standard norms.

◆ Magnetic stirring Extraction (MSE) Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb.saw dust (25g) was soaked overnight in 250ml of 1% sodiumcarbonate. The mixture was placed in the hot plate with magnetic stirrer heating at constanttemperature of 45ºC for 60 minutes and filtered using muslin cloth. ◆ UltrasoundAssisted Extraction (UAE) Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust (25g) soaked overnight in 250ml of 1% sodium carbonate was ultrasonicated using hielscher, Ultrasound technology, UP400S at constant amplitude of 65% and pulse rate of 100% for 60 minutes in ice bath condition and filtered using muslin cloth. ◆ Enzyme-mediated UltrasoundAssisted Extraction (EUAE) Solution of pectinase: cellulase (2:1) enzyme of 2% was prepared and sprayed on Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust (25g) and then left for 12 hours to allow the enzyme to react on dye source. The enzyme sprayed saw dust was soaked overnight in 250ml of 1% sodium carbonate solution and ultrasonicated and filtered using muslin cloth. 2.3 Fabric dyeing Silk fabrics were dyed with the dye solutions extracted from various extraction techniques separately using exhaustion dyeing technique with Rotadyer machine with programmable time and temperature control (SPI Equipments, India), keeping material-to-liquor ratio of 1:20 for 20 minutes at 80ºC. Alum as mordant at 5% concentration was used to fix the colourant onto the fabric. Pre-mordanting technique was followed for the present study [2]. The dyed fabrics were rinsed with soft water and then soaped with 1% nonionic soap solution for 15 minutes at 60ºC followed by rinsing and dried under shade.

Figure 1 : Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb.saw dust

2.2 Dye Extraction Dye extract of Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust were extracted with the following five methods namely Conventional method, Enzyme assisted extraction method, Magnetic stirring extraction method, Ultrasound assisted extraction method, Enzyme-mediated and ultrasound assisted extraction method [8]. ◆ Conventional Extraction (CE) Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust (25g)was soaked overnight in 250ml of 1% sodium carbonate solution. The mixture was placed in the water bath heating at constant temperature of 90ºC for 60 minutes and filtered. July - August 2020

2.4 Colour strength (K/S) Colour depth of all the dyed samples were evaluated 95

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DYEING by reflectance method using D65 Illuminant, 10ยบstandard observer. The colour strength of the dyed samples were measured using Premier Colorscan SS 5100H Spectrophotometer. The relative colour strength of dyed silk fabrics were determined using the Kubelka-Munk equation.

Table 1. Colourfastness test methods

Test method Washing fastness Rubbing fastness Light fastness

(1-R)ยฒ K/S = ---------2R where R is the reflectance at complete opacity, K is absorbance coefficient and S is the scattering coefficient. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher is the depth of colour on the fabric.

3. Results and discussion 3.1 Effect of extraction technique Silk fabrics were dyed individually using dye extract obtained from five different extraction techniques and the colour assessment was done. The shade produced from five different extraction techniques of dyed silk fabrics are presented in Figure 2. Among the dyed silk fabrics, Enzyme-mediated Ultrasound Assisted dye extract showed a higher depth of shade when compared with the fabrics dyed with extract of other methods.

2.5 Colour coordinates The colour coordinates of all the dyed samples were described based on CIELAB colour space system (L*, a*, b*, C* and hยบ) using Premier Colorscan SS 5100H Spectrophotometer. In addition, dE value was determined to assess the colour difference between dyed fabrics. High negative value of L* denotes darker shade (black) and high positive value of L* for high lighter shade (white) of the colour. High negative value of a* implies more green colour and high positive value of a* for more red colour. High negative value of b* indicates high blue colour and high positive value of b* for high yellow colour. Chroma C* measures the intensity or saturation of the colourant and while hue angle (hยบ) is expressed on 360ยบ grid to show the tonality of the colour. Hue (hยบ) represents red at 0ยบ (or 360ยบ), blue at 270ยบ (or 90ยบ), yellow at 90ยบ and green colour at 180ยบ (or -80ยบ).

Figure 2 : Shadesproduced on dyed silk fabrics

2.6 Colour fastness tests Colour fastness is the essential property for a dye from consumer point of view and the dye or print enable to hold its strength and shade during the wear life of a product. Colour fastness tests were carried out for all the dyed fabrics by standard method given in Table 1. Wash fastness of dyed samples were determined using washing tester (SPI Equipments, India). The rubbing fastness (dry and wet) was carried out in Crock-ometer. Light fastness was analyzed by exposing the dyed fabrics to direct sunlight with the help of exposure rack for 48 hours. Washing and rubbing fastness assessment was done using standard rating scales (Ratings 1-5; where 1-poor, 2-fair, 3-good, 4-very good and 5-excellent) and light fastness using blue wool rating scale (Ratings 1-8; where 1-poor, 2-fair, 3-moderate, 4-good, 5-better, 6-very good, 7-best and 8-excellent). Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Test method IS/ISO 105-C06:2006 (2008) IS: 766-1988 (1989) IS: 686-1985 (2006)

3.2 Colour assessment of dyed fabrics Silk fabrics dyed with dye extract obtained from different extraction techniques were evaluated for colour strength and colour co-ordinates (Table 2). All the dyed silk fabrics were analyzed for their L*, a*, b*, C*, ho, dE values. Figure 3 represents the 2D Plot of colour coordinates and Figure 4 represents colour strength vs wavelength curve. Among the dyed fabrics, the L* value was found to be lower (65.739) in Enzymemediated Ultrasound Assisted extract dyed fabric which indicates that the fabric is darker in shade when compared to other fabrics, whereas the silk sample dyed with extract of conventional method has showed the lightest shade (L*=70.227). The L* values for other fabrics dyed with extract of Enzyme-mediated extrac96

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DYEING tion, magnetic stirring extraction, Ultrasound Assisted extraction (MSE,EAE and UAE) are 69.360, 69.353, 69.100 respectively. Maximum redness was recorded with Enzyme-mediated Ultrasound assisted extraction method (a*=3.385) and minimum redness with silk fabric dyed with the extract of Enzyme assisted (a*=1.570). Maximum yellowness was recorded in the fabric dyed with Enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted dye extract (b*=17.617) whereas minimum yellowness was recorded in silk fabric dyed with extract of Enzyme assisted (b*=13.152).The saturation C* value was found to be maximum in Enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted extraction with values of 17.939 and minimum of 13.245 in enzyme assisted extraction technique. It is evident from the plot (Figure 3) that the hue (ho) ranges between 78.869 to 83.159, which lies in the orange to yellow region.

technique is the most efficient and effective extraction method for extraction of natural colourant from Pterocar pusmarsupium Roxb. Saw dust using alkaline medium.

Among the dyed fabrics, the colour difference was found to be maximum (dE = 19.711) in Enzyme-mediated Ultrasound Assisted extract dyed fabric. From the results, it can be concluded that, dyeing by enzymemediated ultrasound extract is better than the extract of conventional, enzyme assisted, magnetic stirring and ultrasound assisted extraction techniques. Among the silk dyed fabrics (Table 2), maximum colour strength was recorded with Enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted extraction technique (15.018) produced deeper shades followed by ultrasound assisted (10.683), magnetic stirring (10.390), enzyme assisted (10.323) and conventional (9.717) extraction techniques. Based on the colour strength of the silk dyed fabrics, it could be concluded that enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted

Figure 3 : 2D plot represents the shades obtained from different extraction techniques

Figure 4. K/S curves of dyed samples

Table 2 : Colour strength and Colour co-ordinatesvalues for Pterocarpus marsupiumRoxb.saw dust extract dyed fabrics

Extraction method

K/S value

Colour co-ordinates

Standard

3.699

77.920

0.080

0.922

0.925

85.007

9.717

70.227

1.826

13.493

13.616

82.260

13.762

EAE

10.323

69.353

1.570

13.152

13.245

83.159

13.826

MSE

10.390

69.360

2.706

13.793

14.056

78.869

14.548

UAE

10.683

69.100

2.095

13.882

14.039

81.385

14.648

EUAE

15.018

65.739

3.385

17.617

17.939

79.092

19.711

Note: Standard - Undyed silk; CE - Silk dyed with Conventional Extract; EAE - Silk dyed with Enzyme Assisted Extract; MSE - Silk dyed with Magnetic Stirring Extract; UAE - Silk dyed with Ultrasound Assisted Extract; EUAE - Silk dyed with Enzyme-mediated Ultrasound Assisted Extract

- CE July - August 2020

- MSE

- EAE 97

- UAE - EUAE Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DYEING 3.3 Colour fastness assessment Fastness properties of the dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing and sunlight were evaluated. The summary of fastness properties assessed for silk fabric dyed with Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust extract with alum as mordant were presented in Table 3. Dyeing with enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted and ultrasound assisted dye extract gave excellent wash fastness followed by Enzyme-mediated, magnetic stirring and conventional extract. All the dyed fabrics exhibited very good to excellent fastness property for dry rubbing and good to very good property to wet rubbing. The light fastness property of dyed samples were found to be good fastness with samples dyed with conventional extract and magnetic stirrer extract, very good fastness with samples dyed with enzyme assisted extract. The samples dyed with enzyme-mediated ultrasound assisted and ultrasound assisted extract showed excellent fastness.

3. 4.

5. 6.

Trends, (Sep), 33-36 (2010). Devgun Manish, Nanda Arun, Ansari SH, Pharmacognosy Review, 3 (6): 359-363 (2009). Gurses A, Acikyildiz M, Gunes K, Gurses M S, Dyes and Pigments: Their Structure and Properties Chapter 2, Springer Briefs in Green Chemistry for Sustainability, DOI 10.1007 /978-3-31933892-7_2, 8 (83): 13-29 (2016). Katiyar Deepti, Singh Vijender, Ali Mohd, The Pharma Innovation Journal, 5 (4): 31-39 (2016). Liu Wein-Jing, Cui Yong-Zhu, Zhang Lei, Ren SenFang, Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics, 2 (1): 25-30 (2009). Mahale G, Gouder I and Kotur R, Journal of Farm Sciences, Special Issue 29 (5): 775-779 (2016). Nadiya K and Kalaiarasi K, International Journal of Pure and Applied Mathematics, 118 (20): 4463-4471 (2018).

Table 3 : Colourfastness properties of Pterocarpus marsupiumRoxb.saw dust extract dyed fabrics Extraction method

Light fastness

Washing fastness Colour change

Rubbing fastness

Colour staining Cotton

Silk

Dry

Wet

4-5

3-4

EAE

4-5

3-4

MSE

4-5

3-4

UAE

6-7

4-5

EUAE

6-7

4-5

Conclusion The natural dye extracted from Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust may be a possible substitute for synthetic dye. From the study, it can be concluded that Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust can be exploited as a potent natural dye source which produce a unique and deeper shades on silk fabrics. Enzymemediated Ultrasound Assisted extraction method has increased the colour yield with improved fastness properties. Natural dye can be effectively extracted from Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. saw dust using Enzymemediated Ultrasound Assisted extraction method.

10.

11. 12. 13.

References 1. Das Pijush Kanti, Mondal Amal Kumar and Parui Sanjukta Mondal, African Journal of Plant Science, 5 (9): 510-520 (2011). 2. Deo Sangeeta and Sarkar Smiriti Rekha, Textile Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ploysai Ohama and Nattida Tumpat, World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology, International Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering, 8 (5): 432-434 (2014). Saravanan P, Chandramohan G, Mariajancyrani and Kiruthikajothi, International Journal of Bioassays, 03 (01): 1653-1656 (2014). Teli M D and Ambre Pradnya, Asian Dyer, (AugSep): 29-35 (2018). Tiwari Maneesha, Sharma Manik and Khare H N, Flora and Fauna, 21 (1): 55-59 (2015). Upadhyay Ravi and Choudhary Mahendra Singh, Global Journal of Bioscience and Biotechnology, 3 (1): 97-99 (2014). ❑❑❑

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PEER REVIEWED

Alternative and Remunerative Solid Culture Media for Pigment-producing Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 Anand S. Dixita, a. Department of Polymer Parekh b. Department of Chemical

Karuna N. Nagulab, Anand V. Patwardhanb* & Aniruddha B. Panditb and Surface Engineering, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal M. Marg, Matunga East, Mumbai 400019, Maharashtra Engineering, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal M. Parekh Marg, Matunga East, Mumbai-400019, Maharashtra

Abstract The present investigation was focused at discovering the alternative and cost-effective solid culture media for Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 producing prodigiosin. Different media's like corn flour, sorghum flour, mungo beans flour, raw soybean flour, sattu flour, gram dal flour and mung bean flouring combination with agar were tested in comparison with nutrient agar. It was observed that raw soybean flour in combination with agar (50-50% w/w) shows higher microbial growth and pigment concentration as compared to nutrient agar and other flours used. In addition to this, the combination of raw soybean flour with agar was observed to be cost-effective as compared to the current commercial agars. In addition, the combination of soybean flour and agar supported the reproducibility of prodigiosin pigment. This proves its potential to be utilized on a lab-scale in future. Keywords Pigment, Prodigiosin, Raw Soybean Flour, Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246

1. Introduction Bacteria are endowed with producing biopigments that are synthesized for producing medicinally important product[1]. Serratia Marcescens, as the name given by Bizio in 1823[2] is a facultative anaerobic[3,4], motile, gram-negative[5], rod-shaped[6], broadly dispersed bacterium affiliated to the klebsiella-Enterobacter-Serratia category of large Enterobacteriaceae family [7], which is not only found in air, water, soil but also found in living organisms which encompass plant and animals [8] and have potential to discharge pigment, biosurfactant [9], various extracellular products including chitinase, chitosanase, protease, lipase and nuclease under various conditions [8,9]. Serratias pecies creation of three notable enzymes viz. DNAase, lipase, and gelatinase make it prominent among the other genera [3, 4]. Substances which are not crucial for the proliferation of the organism that manufactures them are termed as Secondary Metabolites [10,11].Some sec-

ondary metabolites of Serratia family-like Prodigiosinred pigment [12-16], beta-lactam antibiotic, carbapenem, serrawettin and many more, can be produced through its metabolism track [6] by optimizing growth conditions [7] and regulatory system [6]. Prodigiosin have an extensive scope of biological activities such as antimicrobial [17,18], antimalarial [19], antitumor [20], antioxidant [21],immunosuppressive [22], trypanolytic [9], cytotoxic [17], proapoptotic [14], anticancer [19], antimycotic [16], antibiotic [23] and anti-proliferative properties [20]. Taking into consideration its latent commercial significance for medical implementation [13,14], biopharmaceutical sector [6], there is a need to come up with high-throughput and cost-effective bioprocess for Prodigiosin production [19]. Prodigiosin, a classic alkaloid compound [20] is a characteristic member of a group of compounds with a common pyrrolylpyrromethene (PPM) framework [24] and has a series of close kindred bearing the same PPM core with different alkyl substituent [13,14]. Biosynthesis of Prodigiosin, a water-immiscible [23] and multifaceted secondary metabolite, is a ramified process in which mono and bipyrrole precursors are synthesized separately and then conjoin together to give Prodigiosin [4]. Since extracellular[19], Prodigiosin can be extracted with organic solvents such as petroleum ether, chloroform, acetone, ethanol and methanol [7]. As-

* All the Correspondence should be addressed to: Dr. Anand V. Patwardhan, Professor of Chemical Engineering, Department of Chemical Engineering, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga East, Mumbai-400019. E-mail : av.patwardhan@ictmumbai.edu Phone No : +91 22 3361 2019 (office)

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DYEING sorted regulatory agents including physiochemical aspects namely nutritional requirement, temperature variation [14], oxygen[8], pH[5], light[5], ionic strength, salt concentration and phosphate availability beget the intricate regulatory system of secondary metabolite production inSerratia species [22]. As far as Prodigiosin production is concerned, thiamine and ferric acid are critical, whereas phosphate, adenosine triphosphate and ribose hamper the production yield [14]. To develop a process for the utmost production of Prodigiosin, standardization of medium and fermentation condition is important [7]. Complex media containing fatty acid and saccharide-derived carbons, along with diverse nitrogen sources, have been suggested to optimize the growth and secondary metabolite production of Serratia species [6]. Superlative growth of all Serratia strains has been perceived at a temperature from 20-37 0C [4]. There are numerous types of carbon sources utilized for the Prodigiosin production, such as glycerol [7], brown sugar [5], mannitol, peanut seed [13] and so on [19]. Having cognizance on the composition of already published media, the designing of a novel, alimentary and economically cheap medium on a laboratory scale as a replacement to nutrient agar was thought for the Prodigiosin biosynthesis.

2.3 Microbial Inoculation Bacterial strain "Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246" was streaked on nutrient agar. The cultures were allowed to incubate at 280C for 48 hrs. Then, 300mL of the broth culture of the same test bacteria was inoculated onto the solid media (made from seven different flours) by streaking. The bacteria introduced on nutrient agar media served as control. The inoculated plates were incubated at 280C for 48 hrs. After incubation, the plates and respective control were observed for the degree of growth in terms of production of ProdigiosinRed Pigment (figure 2.1).

2. Materials and methods 2.1 Materials Edible Sorghum beans, Mung (Moong) bean, Soybean, Corn Flour, Gram dal, Urad dal (Mungo bean), Sattu flour were purchased from "Mumbai Grahak Panchayat - The largest voluntary consumer organization in Asia. Nutrient Agar and Agar was purchased from HIMEDIA. The bacterial strain namely "Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246" was collected from National Collection of Industrial Microorganisms (NCIM), National Chemical Laboratory, Pune, Maharashtra, India.

Figure 2.1. Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 on (a) Corn flour+agar (50-50%); (b) Gram dal flour+agar (50-50%); (c) Sorghum flour+agar (50-50%); (d) Raw soybean flour+agar (50-50%); (e) Sattuflour+agar (5050%); (f) Mungo bean flour+agar (50-50%); (g) Mung bean flour + agar (50-50%)

2.4 Extraction of Prodigiosin pigment SerratiaMarcescens NCIM 5246 strain was grown on respective solid media for 48 hours at 280C and then it was scraped and added to the centrifuge tube. To prepare an appropriate sample to measure absorbance, an equal volume of ethanol (95%) was added further to the cell pellets and Prodigiosin was extracted by heating the mixture of pigmented cells and ethanol (95%) at 90-950C for 1-1.5 hour with successive filtration of the mixture (figure 2.2). The residual cell dry mass was dried in the oven and weighed.

2.2 Formulation of Solid Medium The beans were finely powdered separately using a mixer grinder and sieved. The powder (Flour) was stored separately in bags until use. Seven different solid media were prepared by taking 2.5 g of each flour and mixing it with 2.5 g of agar (HIMEDIA) and dissolving both the ingredients in 100 ml distilled water. Further, this formulation was autoclaved at 1000C and then the hot formulation was spread over Petri dish and allowed it to cool in laminar flow under UV light to avoid contamination.

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DYEING It was also observed that the raw soybean flour media not only supported the highest prodigiosin concentration but also the reproducibility of the pigment in the identical culture condition (figure 3.3). It is speculated that the nutrients like all the minerals, vitamins, amino acids, protein, energy and total lipid content should be in higher proportion in raw soybean flour as compared to other media used for this experiment. Hence, the reason higher concentration of prodigiosin and pigment reproducibility was observed in raw soybean flour.

Figure 2.2. Extracted prodigiosin pigment

2.5 Determination of Prodigiosin concentration The absorbance of the prepared sample was measured at 530 nm by using a colorimeter. The concentration of Prodigiosin was calculated by using the formula mentioned below[25]: Prodigiosion

( gm ---- ) L

O.D 530 ✕ 323.4 ✕ dilutionfactor -------------------------------------------7.07 ✕ 104

3. Results and Discussion It was discerned from figure 3.1, figure 3.2 that Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 secreted highest prodigiosin pigment, and displayed a peak bacterial growth in raw soybean flour media followed by Mungo bean flour, Sorghum Flour, Gram dal flour, Mung bean flour, Sattu flour and corn flour. Figure 3.3 : Reproducibility of Pigment supported by raw soybean flour+agar (50-50%)

The cost of other flours combination effective as figure 3.5.

raw soybean flour is the cheapest in all (figure 3.4). It was observed that the of (Raw Soybean Flour + agar) is costcompared to other agars mentioned in

Figure 3.1 : Concentration of Prodigiosin pigment produced in different medias.

Figure 3.4 : Cost of Different flours

Figure 3.2. Cell Dry mass (bacterial growth) of Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 in different media July - August 2020

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6. Figure 3.5 : Cost comparison between the commercial media and (raw soybean flour agar)

Therefore, fermentation of microorganisms could be a valuable source of manufacturing colourants. It is recommended that these colourants could be used to dye many fibres like wool, nylon, acrylics, silk etc. Prodigiosin pigment can be utilized for dyeing variety of textile fabrics including Linen, Modal, Satin, Velvet, Spandex and many more.

4. Conclusion Several beans flours were utilized and media with minimal ingredients was formulated. Raw soybean flour media was discovered to be the best among them since it supported the highest prodigiosin concentration and reproducibility of the same. This Raw soybean flour proved to be cost-effective media. Hence, it can be concluded that raw soybean flour is good media for laboratory use. In addition, prodigiosin pigment derived from Serratia Marcescens NCIM 5246 through this cost effective media, has promising prospects in textile industries.

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5. Conflict of Interest: Authors declare no conflict of interest.

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References 1. Pradeep B.V., Pradeep F.S., Angayarkanni J., PalaniswamyM., Optimization and production of prodigiosin from Serratiamarcescens MBB05 using various natural substrates, Asian J Pharm Clin Res, 6(1), 34-41, (2013). 2. Hejazi A., FalkinerF.R., Serratiamarcescens, Journal of medical microbiology, 46(11), 903-912, (1997). 3. Giri A.V., Anandkumar N., Muthukumaran G., Pennathur G., A novel medium for the enhanced cell growth and production of prodigiosin from Serratiamarcescens isolated from soil, BMC microbiology, 4(1), 11, (2004). 4. Khanafari A., Assadi M.M., Fakhr F.A., Review Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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of prodigiosin, pigmentation in Serratiamarcescens, Online Journal of Biological Sciences, 6(1), 113, (2006). Aruldass C. A., Venil C. K., Zakaria Z. A., Ahmad W. A., Brown sugar as a low-cost medium for the production of prodigiosin by locally isolated Serratiamarcescens UTM1, International Biodeterioration& Biodegradation, 95(11), 1924, (2014). Rastegari B., Karbalaei-HeidariH.R., Sulfate as a pivotal factor in regulation of Serratia sp. strain S2B pigment biosynthesis, Research in microbiology, 167(8), 638-646, (2016). Su W.T., Tsou T.Y., Liu H.L., Response surface optimization of microbial prodigiosin production from Serratiamarcescens, Journal of the Taiwan Institute of Chemical Engineers, 42(2), 217-222, (2011). Zang C.Z., Yeh C.W., Chang W.F., Lin C.C., Kan S.C., Shieh C.J., Liu Y.C., Identification and enhanced production of prodigiosin isoform pigment from Serratiamarcescens N10612, Journal of the Taiwan Institute of Chemical Engineers, 45(4), 1133-1139, (2014). Wang S.L., Wang C.Y., Yen Y.H., Liang T.W., Chen S.Y., Chen C.H.,Enhanced production of insecticidal prodigiosin from Serratiamarcescens TKU011 in media containing squid pen, Process Biochemistry, 47(11), 1684-1690, (2012). Sole M., Francia A., Rius N., Loren J.G., The role of pH in the 'glucose effect' onprodigiosin production by non? proliferating cells of Serratiamarcescens, Letters in applied microbiology, 25(2), 81-84, (1997). Williams R.P., Biosynthesis of prodigiosin, a secondary metabolite of Serratiamarcescens, Applied microbiology, 25(3), 396-402, (1973). Chen W.C., Yu W.J., Chang C.C., Chang J.S., Huang S.H., Chang C.H., Chen S.Y., Chien C.C., Yao C.L., Chen W.M., Wei Y.H., Enhancing production of prodigiosin from Serratiamarcescens C3 by statistical experimental design and porous carrier addition strategy, Biochemical engineering journal, 78(9), 93-100, (2013). Wei Y.H., Chen W.C., Enhanced production of prodigiosin-like pigment from Serratiamarcescens SM?R by medium improvement and oil-supplementation strategies, Journal of bioscience and bioengineering, 99(6), 616-622, (2005). Wei Y.H., Yu W.J., Chen W.C., Enhanced undecylprodigiosin production from Serratiamarcescens SS-1 by medium formulation and amino-acid supplementation, Journal of bioscience and bioengineering, 100(4), 466-471, (2005). July - August 2020

DYEING 15. Santer U.V., Vogel H.J., Prodigiosin synthesis in Serratiamarcescens: isolation of a pyrrole-containing precursor, Biochimicaet Biophysica Acta, 19(3), 578-579, (1956). 16. Venil C.K., LakshmanaperumalsamyP., An insightful overview on microbial pigment, prodigiosin, Electronic Journal of Biology, 5(3), 49-61, (2009). 17. Song M.J., Bae J., Lee D.S., Kim C.H., Kim J.S., Kim S.W., Hong S.I., Purification and characterization of prodigiosin produced by integrated bioreactor from Serratia sp. KH-95, Journal of bioscience and bioengineering, 101(2), 157-161, (2006). 18. Someya N., Nakajima M., Hamamoto H., Yamaguchi I., Akutsu K., Effects of light conditions on prodigiosin stability in the biocontrol bacterium Serratiamarcescens strain B2, Journal of General Plant Pathology, 70(6), 367-370, (2004). 19. Xia Y., Wang G., Lin X., Song X., Ai L., Solidstate fermentation with Serratiamarcescens Xd-1 enhanced production of prodigiosin by using bagasse as an inertia matrix, Annals of microbiology, 66(3), 1239-1247, (2016). 20. Darshan N., Manonmani H.K., Prodigiosin and its potential applications, Journal of food science

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and technology, 52(9), 5393-5407, (2015). 21. Liu X., Wang Y., Sun S., Zhu C., Xu W., Park Y., Zhou H., Mutant breeding of Serratiamarcescens strain for enhancing prodigiosin production and application to textiles, Preparative Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 43(3), 271-284, (2013). 22. Cang S., Sanada M., Johdo O., Ohta S., NagamatsuY., Yoshimoto A., High production of prodigiosin by Serratiamarcescens grown on ethanol, Biotechnology letters, 22(22), 1761-1765, (2000). 23. Bar R., Rokem J.S., Cyclodextrin-stimulated fermentation of prodigiosin by Serratiamarcescens, Biotechnol. Lett, 12(6), 447-448, (1990). 24. Marks G.S., Bogorad L., Studies on the biosynthesis of prodigiosin in Serratiamarcescens, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 46(1), 25-28, (1960). 25. Mahmoud S.T., Luti K.J.K., Yonis R.W., Enhancement of prodigiosin production by Serratiamarcescens S23 via introducing microbial elicitor cells into culture medium, Iraqi Journal of Science, 56(3A), 1938-1951, (2015). ❑❑❑

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TEXPERIENCE

Happiness In Textile Industry Since 1970 I am attached with Indian textile industry and till now I am continuingwith the industry very closely. I found most of the people in textile industry and trade associations are not happy and hence here I would like to mention some quotes and pin-point reasons of unhappiness in textile industry. Hope it will serve to guide every body concerned to be happy.

Mr. R. N. Yadav

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R. N. Yadav Principal consultant, Aaryan Associate, Mumbai / Nagpur Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wide experience in the Textile Industry of last 4 8years' service in Spinning & Composite Mills. He has started his career from the supervisory level and gradually with his skill and talent in work experience he elevated to the Mill President. He has occupied the independent top authority of VicePresident & then President during his last 34 years' service. Mr. Yadav worked with leading industrial houses like Bharat Commerce & Industries, Bhilwara Group, Mohota Group, Suryalata, Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group (Nepal). Mr. Yadav independently started & worked successfully four new projects and renovated five mills. He established many new milestones in quality & productivity. He presented several papers in textile conferences and other meets affiliated to textile industries. He has 100+ technical & managerial papers published in textile journals and national dailies. Mr. Yadav is author of a hand book "Productivity" on strategic industrial management. He is the recipient of Precitex award & Life Time Achievement award and Legendary Award from The Textile Association (India), M.P.Unit. He is Patron Member, The Textile Association (India) and Life Member, Indian Environmental Association. E-mail: ramanuj1149@gmail.com

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Do you really have the courage to behonest? If you are a business owner, your business value will increase ordecrease according to your gratitude. The more grateful you are to your business, your customers and your employees, the more the businesswill grow and increase. It is when business owner stop beinggrateful and replace gratitude with worry that their business spirals downward.(Extracted from the MAGIC byRhonda Byrne). No one is born happy, but all of usare born with theability to createhappiness. - - - Dr. Abdul Kalam Don't be member of ''Club 99". It snatches away your happiness. Don't run behind 99 to make it 100, but be satisfied and maintain happiness. Happiness is a choice, not a result. Nothing will make you happy untilyou choose to be happy. Happiness is not there in absence of problems, but it is there indealing with them. When one door of happiness isclosed, another opens; but of tenwe look so long at the closed door that we do not see the one which has been opened for us. ….Helen Keller A customer is the most important visitor on our premises. He is notdependent on us. We are dependent on him. He is not an interruption in our work. He is the purpose of it. Heis not an outsider in our business. He is part of it. We are not doing him a favour by serving him. He is doing us a favour by giving us an opportunity to do so. ….Mahatma Gandhi Happiness resides not in positions, and not in gold; happiness dwells insoul. Sometimes you have to keep your good news to yourself. Everybody is not genuinely happy for you.

We have many reasons to hope for great happiness, but, we have to earn it. And that's something you can't achieve by taking the easy way out. Earning happiness means doing good and working, not speculating and being lazy. Laziness may look inviting, but only work gives you true satisfaction. … Anne Frank DOs and Don'ts? Looking to China threat & during Covid 19 tenure and after a few prominent points are being raised here under for happiness in textile industry and trade.

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TEXPERIENCE DON'Ts ● Don't carry your mobile / smartphones to your workplace. It lowers productivity of yours as well as that of your mill and trade. ● Don't engage in gossips while on work. ● Don't play politics among your juniors or seniors. ● Don't be hindrance in any work policy of your mill and trade. ● Don't get involved in unfair trading.

Dos ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Be fare, frank and fearless. Be disciplined and have positive attitude. Think well about your mill and trade. Have cooperation to enhanceproductivity through cross-functional management system. Keep and help keep your working areaneat, clean, tidy and safe. Work efficiently and allow others to doso. Participate "Business Olympiad Race" regularly and continuously.

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org Follow us on

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Nano Fibres for the Prevention of COVID-19 Zahir Ali Sidiqui, Sandeep More Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai.

centers, long-term care facilities, public transport, schools, and various businesses to reduce human exposure and mitigate the spread of infectious pathogens. COVID-19 outbreak with worldwide 50.5 M cases and 1.26 M deaths till Nov, 2020 (WHO tracker) and unavailability of vaccine force the science community to think upon the alternative solution to deal with. Transmission through the contact of common surfaces such as places in public domain and healthcare arena are the major concerns to control with. Outermost lipid or fatty envelop of the virus is assumed to be check point as for its transmission is concerned. Disabling the envelop by any means may uplift effective time barrier of the pre existing disinfectants and cleaning agents to long-lasting mode. Functionalization of the contact surfaces via means of antiviral materials is assumed to be the effective way to disable the outermost envelop and eliminate the transmission via the contaminated objects. Transmission between people within close proximity and the airborne mode via small particle aerosols are assumed to be controlled via the modification in the existing masks.There were various methods deployed for the filtration among which nanofibers has shown some promising results. Filtration efficiency of the Nano fibres was found to be more than 95% which clearly indicates it's utility to protect the respiratory organs.Electrospunnanofibers have a wide range of applications in healthcare, environmental engineering and energy storage sectors. Currently, nanofibers are being produced in bulk quantity in some countries including Korea, Japan, the U.S.A, and European countries. Nanofibers are the best replacement for microfibers and thin films due to their distinct features including the higher surface area which can be functionalized for desired property, uniform morphology, consistency in structural properties, and simple technique to fabricate nanofibrous mats. Thus, nanofiber filters are gradually used for mask applications in the world. The comparative study are also done on the performance properties of meltblown (N95) and nanofiber-based air filter masks for evaluation on reusability after cleaning (spraying and dipping) using 75% ethanol by determinations of air permeability, surface area, porosity, morphological properties, and filter performance.

Personal protective equipment (PPE) became a hot issue since the emergence of COVID-19 pandemic which has changed the global views on textile production and market. As there is no possible vaccine at this time, PPE beingonly saviour in fighting against this pandemic and primary material being textiles attracted lot of attention and also concerns on development of the textile manufacturing sector. Even higher authorities and institutions including WHO are concerned about the shortage of face masks, suggesting the public use of cloth masks even if medical masks are not available in markets. China is/was a major producer of face masks with almost 50% contribution in global face masks consumption. But the pandemic have proved the risk of dependency on others for the crucial sectors such as medical textile and motivated the researchers as well as production houses to be self-sufficient. However, it is clear that COVID-19 has badly affected the production and supply of PPE throughout the world. Countries having the production capacity of PPE are also suffering from a shortage. These countries include developed nations like the European Union, U.S.A, Japan, and the U.K. Consumer awareness about health-related issues is growing due to the increasing number of cases of nosocomial infections and epidemic outbreaks of lifethreatening diseases such as H5N1 Avian influenza, H1N1 Swine flu, and COVID-19 in recent times. The Covid-19 outbreak began from Wuhan, China in the late 2019 but its impact felt across global textile sectors. As we know, textile is the second most economically important sector after agriculture in India. Around 15% production value addition, one third of the total gross export earnings, 15% of the total industrial production and contributions of the 30% of the export are specificity of it. Hence serve as the backbone of the Indian economy. Many economies experienced the toss and now taking efforts to support the textile sector which is one of the major contributing sectors for global economy. The COVID-19 pandemic has intensified the world's attention toward the spread of contamination facilitated by high touch surfaces. In response, surfaces and coatings capable of minimizing the presence of active viral pathogens are being explored for application in a variety of settings such as healthcare Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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TEXNOTE These Nanofibers are produced by electro spinning method. It has wide range of applications too like drug delivery, as tissue scaffolding materials and filtration purposes. These fibres are having diameter of around 100 nm with higher surface area to volume ratios and smaller pore size.

A protective performance study revealed that surgical mask and N95 mask are good in terms of foreign body filtration (up to 95-97%) but lacking antibacterial activities. All the Nano treated surgical masks were reported to have exceptionally lower perception of humidity and heat along with antibacterial activities. Nano fibres are reported to be reused multiple times with significantly good filtrations efficiency, so one of the best alternatives to deal with shortage of the masks and other PPE components in the public domain. Above mentioned speciality of the Nano fibres are the justifying utilisation of this new material for the prevention from the COVID-19 and other infectious diseases. Lets hope the world will be normal and safe soon but certainly it will change lives of many around the globe. With the properties studied the nanofibers are going to be a key components not only in the PPEs but also various filtration and coating enabled infrastructures to prevent possible pathogen spread and maintain the sterility.

Nowadays polymer coating is also gaining substantial attention due to its potency to incapacitate the further transmission of the virus in either of transmission modes. Due to effective filtration quality factor, fabric microstructure, and charging ability, Nano fibres are proving to be the effective for the masksin prevention of COVID-19. Considering low stability, toxicity and possibility of severe dehydration of the skin, conventional disinfectants like 70% ethanol, solution of sodium hypochlorite, or household bleach were replaced by antiviral biopolymers. These polymers were reported to have low cost, versatility, process ability, nontoxicity and degradability.

About the authors Mr. Zahir Ali Siddiqui is currently pursuing PhD in Chemistry at Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT, Mumbai. His research work is based on synthesis of organic molecules and their applications in organic electronics and Smart Textiles. Recently he was engaged in electrospinning of antiviral polymers on textile materials. Dr. Sandeep More is working as DST INSPIRE Faculty in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT, Mumbai. He is a chemist by training and his research interest includes functional dyes, novel auxiliariesand effluent treatment. He has proven experience in organic electronics, molecular machines and currently successfully leading the smart textile research group at Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai.

Attention All TAI Members THE TEXTILE ASSOCIA TION (INDIA) ASSOCIATION Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our mailer data taicnt@gmail.com July - August 2020

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NEWS

At the heart of it all despite the distance Always up to date - Georg+Otto Friedrich GmbH tests k.management from KM.ON

A fruitful development partnership In order to optimise k.management for customers, several weekly user workshops were held between March and May 2020. The online video conferences brought Product Manager Marcel Wenzel and UX/UI Designer Pia Keller from KM.ON together with Kai Trippel and those responsible for purchasing, production and technology at Georg+Otto Friedrich, and were extremely successful. The participants were able to use the details they shared on their production practices to draw up important requirements for preparing and presenting performance data. "We were able to quickly prioritise and work out issues such as which key figures are needed in which order at the first click, and which data should lead to deeper menu hierarchies," explains Marcel Wenzel. On the customer side, Kai Trippel welcomes the opportunity to clear up his questions directly and provide suggestions for improvement effectively. "Things are now being fleshed out, and the software solution is getting its final touch before it's ready for practical use," he says. Following the workshop phase, the requirements laid out during the dialogue with Georg+Otto Friedrich will be examined to determine their general validity for the market, and solutions for meeting these requirements will be worked out step by step. "We are taking an interactive and agile approach to the optimisation work," says Marcel Wenzel. Kai Trippel is already looking forward to the next test version, which software developers Hristiyan Petrov and Martin Dederer are currently hard at work on.

A view of production operations at Georg+Otto Friedrich

In these times of coronavirus-induced travel and contact restrictions, the advantages of innovative digital solutions are becoming apparent, especially for daily working life. For example, leading European warp knitting company Georg+Otto Friedrich uses KM.ON's k.management software to establish the production performance of its machines, regardless of time and place. KARL MAYER's high-performance tricot machines are in operation at its headquarters in GroĂ&#x;Zimmern, Hesse, and in Limbach- Oberfrohna, Saxony. At the end of last year, Georg+Otto Friedrich used k.ey to network its machines at these two sites with the KM.ON cloud so that staff could access an overview of the factory halls via mobile phone or tablet. k.management has been being trialled at the company since January 2020. "We are now saving a lot of time and have real-time information to assist with our planning and decision-making," says Kai Trippel, responsible for production, of his initial experience with the technology. Previously, it was impossible to get an overall impression of the production situation without daily tours of factory headquarters and inconvenient phone calls with the extremely busy shift managers at the plant in Saxony. Georg+Otto Friedrich is acting as KM.ON's development partner for the k.management project, thus continuing a long-running tradition. This warp knitted fabric specialist was one of the first customers to KARL MAYER, KM.ON's parent company. The company began business activities in 1950, using KARL MAYER machines. The two long-standing partners are now working together to tackle the challenge of digitalisation.

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Planning using efficiently acquired real-time data The digital k.management solution delivers a well thought-out dashboard with key figures on the machines used in production. The data ensures that processes are transparent, provides a basis for well-founded decisions, and can be called up easily at any time and from any location. Simply open the KM.ON homepage and log into your personal area using your unique login information. All the machines that are networked via k.ey are listed in this area. The first menu level provides an overview of all the machines. It provides key information on each machine, such as speed, effectiveness and the next upcoming beam change, summarised in a button-like display area. Clicking on this machine item displays more detailed data on the selected machine. In addition to this, the detailed view shows in108

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NEWS formation such as speed and stop time curves with a choice of monitoring intervals, availability, and the processing status of orders in relation to the planned production time and production duration.

creative process, from brainstorming to the finished fabric. Pattern data is transferred directly from the software to the machine. This saves time and prevents errors.

Pushing boundaries during the design process In addition to k.management, KM.ON's customers also appreciate k.innovation for the range of products offered by the KARL MAYER software start-up - particularly in the age of corona. The web-based design tool for warp knitting helps to shorten the time to market and, to this end, connects all those involved in the design process with appropriate access rights during the development and design of new products. Customers benefit from efficient teamwork and communication - without needing to travel - throughout the online

For more details, please contact: Press release Postanschrift / post address: KARL MAYER Gruppe Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Media contact: Ulrike Schlenker Tel.: +49 6104/402-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Control of contamination, defence against defects USTER launches automated quality monitoring for nonwovens producers

Nonwovens production lines demand tough standards. Material throughout is very high, while wear and tear on machines through abrasive fibers adds extra constraints. These challenges are met by the USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N fiber cleaning system, which was especially developed for the highoutput synthetic nonwovens industry. Thanks to its wide and deep channel, USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is designed to be installed on high-production lines. The machine is built with the most durable materials, using stainless steel to prevent abrasion in areas which come into contact with the fibers. For the record: USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is made in Uster, Switzerland.

Nonwovensproducers are well aware of the potential threat posed by contamination in end-products. Not only does it damage user perceptions of quality, it could also prevent products from meeting important standards such as 'flushability'. In some cases, hard particles in finished goods might even result in class actions and lawsuits by consumers. USTER can protect against these risks with its new fiber cleaning system - and offers full control of contamination and defects bycombining two automated solutions for quality monitoring.

USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is the result of surveys, close collaboration with international nonwovens companies and countless hours of field tests. Installation is easy, since the fiber cleaner's slim design fits perfectly into existing lines - and it readily copes with the pace of standard production environments. For best detection results, the fiber cleaner is tuned to identify the typical disturbing contamination types in nonwovens, including colored fibers, metal or wood particles and grease deposits. Proven detection technology Though USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is brand new, it is based on well-proven technology. In fact, it's acknowledged as the leading fiber cleaning system specifically adapted to the needs of the nonwovens

UsterJossi Vision Shield N 0328 2 July - August 2020

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NEWS industry. Introduced to the market 20 years ago, there are 3,500 systems currently installed worldwide and the technology has been continuously improved. The field of experience wasin spinning mills processing cotton. In that sector, contamination is a serious issue - and is even more critical for producers of fleece for the hygiene and medical applications. Some nonwovensproducersrely onUSTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD 2, the fiber cleaning system with the most sophisticated detection technology,to guarantee zero contamination standards. The same applies in security paper printing of cotton for currency, where specialist producers place complete trust in the USTER equipment.

technology results in about 75% less waste comparing with other fiber cleaners - saving tons of raw material every year," says Giacomo Frattesi, Product Manager, Uster Technologies. Extra assurance comes with the Quick Teach feature, in which USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD Nautomatically 'learns' the correct color of each new raw material lot within seconds. This prevents any annoying false ejections when changing lots. Additionally, it is possible to view pictures of every ejected contaminant on the touchscreen, to verify that only the required material is removed. An unbeatable combination The nonwovens industry today faces constantly increasing quality requirements. Trends such as a greater focus on product quality by end-users are driving demands for more comprehensive control over contamination, and also over defects arising in the production process.

While other technologies use conventional color cameras, the built-inspectroscopes of USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N operate on a much greater wavelength. This enables it to find contamination even within the 'invisible' range of infrared and ultraviolet light, even detecting contamination fragments of the same or similar shade as the fibers themselves - down to the fineness of a human hair.

At the fiber preparation stage, USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD Nensures the best possible initial inspection and removal of contamination. Then, at the end of the production sequence, USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION Nhandles automated detection and marking of all the main defects caused during production - and of any remaining contamination.

A further advantage is the positioning of the system. For fiber cleaning, bundle size is the key: small contaminant particles can hide inside biggerbundles, making them especially difficult to locate when the material is more compressed. USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is ideally located in the line to overcome this, directly behind the fine opener. This ensures that the fiber bundlespass the spectroscopes in their most open state.

This combined solution makes it possible today for nonwovens producers to protect quality, avoid material waste and take full advantage of the potential for process optimization. "The combination of USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD Nand USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION Nmeans that USTER can offer a complete quality monitoring solution for the nonwovens industry," says Frattesi.

No waste worries Initially, nonwovens producers might be wary of applying the system's outstanding contamination detection performance - the fear being that too much raw material would be wasted through contamination ejections. But that's not the case with USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N! The velocity of the fiber bundles is continuously measured. Precision valves then match the timing and duration of each ejection of contamination,so that a minimal amount of 'good' material is taken out each time, even at high production throughputs.

For more details, please contact: Edith Aepli On behalf of USTER Marketing Service Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 8610 Uster, Switzerland Phone +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 91 602 91 edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com

"It is important to ensure a minimum of good fiber is lost. Trials have shown that the advanced USTER

The creative approach to supercharge your brand Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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HOMAGE to Dr. HVS Murthy seminars and exhibitions. He was the recipient of "CenturyMills Best Technical Book Award" for the books; "Introduction to Textile Fibres" in the year 1989, &"Two for One Technology and Technique for Spun Yarn" in the year 1993. He was alsoa Practicing Chartered Engineer and Textile Consultant. He was on the selection bodies and Board ofStudies in UG and PG studies of various universities inIndia. He was a visiting faculty member of NationalCenter of Quality Management (NCQM), Mumbai and successfully conducted number of ISO-9001awareness programs in mills. From March 2009 to 2015, he was on the Maharashtra State Board of Technical Education-MSBTE, as Chairman, Textile Engineering Group. He had widely travelled abroadfor Advanced Studies.

Dr. HV Srinivasa Murthy

Dr. HV Srinivasa Murthy, Past Chairman of Professional Award Committee (PAC),The Textile Association (India), passed away at the age of 77 years on Thursday, August 13th, 2020 at 1.00 p.m. He was suffering from cancer for last three years and was bed ridden for last two months.It is extremely sad news for the entire Textile Academic/ProfessionalsFraternity.

He had successfully organized many short term courses for spinningexecutives and edited books on; 1. Introduction to Textile Fibres 2. Material Management in Textiles, 3. Success story of export oriented units, 4. Value Engineering in Textiles (special issue JTA),

Dr. Murthy was B. Sc (Textiles) FirstClass from GSKSJTI (1966), 3rd rank holder from Bangalore University; M. Tech (Textile Technology) First Class distinction from A.C. College, Madras (1969);PhD from IIT Delhi (1985).Besides he was also a post graduate certificate holder in Business Managementfrom St. Xavier's College, Bombay.He is the recipient of Fellow of theTextile Association (India) - FTA (1985) and Fellow of the Institution of Engineers' (India) - FIE.

He revised his book on 'Textile Fibres', which isnow published by Woodhead Publishers. He compiled all the project works done by his students regarding Texturizing and published as a book through Woodhead Publishers. He also revised his book on TFO and is in the pipe line for publications. He wrote two dramas in Kannada, which were released about a week back.

Dr. Murthy served over 32 year in VJTI, Mumbai as a faculty and retired as Professor and Head, Textile Manufacture Department. He was a great scholar and guide for thousands of students to build their career.He had a working experienceof two years in the industry before joining Wool Research Association (WRA), Mumbai, then he joinedVeermataJijabai (Victoria Jubilee) Technical Institute (VJTI) Matunga, Mumbai in September 1971.He had more than 32 years teaching and research experience and guided a number of postgraduate students.He was a very good teacher, a ert lovable person, very simplebut very elegant,a nicest human beingand guide to many students spread across the globe. He was very sympathetic and cordial to even an unknown person.

Dr. Murthy served as Chairman of Professionals Awards Committee (PAC), The Textile Association (India) during 1985 to 2016 and also was a Chairman, Textile Studies in Maharashtra State Technical Education Board. He is recipient of Service Gold Medal and Service Memento of the Textile Association (India). He was presented the title of 'TAI RATNA' on the Platinum Jubilee Occasion of The Textile Association (India) on 9th April 2014. He was always evergreen in his work and actively connected with various social and cultural organizations and was interested in literary activities, social services and yoga. He was a very active member of Mysore Association, Mumbai.

Dr. Murthy has published more than 86 technical research and review papersin national and international journals, reviewed five technical books and written many special reportson national and international conferences, July - August 2020

He wasinstrumental in introducing Five Year Graduate Member of Textile Association - GMTA Course 111

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NEWS andThree Year Diploma level Associateship courses in Textile Association, which is recognized as equivalent to B. Tech Degree offered by Technical Universities and Diploma courses offered by various state technical education boards respectively.

Research on Cotton - CIRCOT, Mumbai.

Dr. Murthy was anAdvisor during 2004 to 2009 to Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science (SVITS), Indore (M.P.) and consultant to SVK's - NMIMS Centre for Textile Functions, Shirpur Campus (MH) since the year 2000. He was also connected with YCMOU, NIMMS Universityfor various activities. He was a role model for many faculty and students. He had successfully completed a joint project on'Feasibility of Processing Indian Cotton and Blends in AirjetSpinning' along with KYOTOInstitute of Technology. Faculty of Fibre Science, MATSUGASAKI, SAKYO-KU-KYOTO,Japan and Central Institute of

Dr. HVS Murthy's immense contribution to the TAI and the Textile Academic / ProfessionalsFraternitywill be remembered for a very long time. TAI and Textile Educational Sector of India have lost very well-known and respected personality.

He was highly appreciated for his dedication to a cause and selfless unassuming services rendered for educational and social purposes.

TAI pray to the Almighty for everlasting peaceful stay in heaven to the departed soul and give his family enough courage to sustain this irreparable loss. Dr. Murthy ... miss you a lot!!!

INDIA ITME -Virtual Pre-Event Buyer Seller Meet Artificial Intelligence to do Matchmaking for Virtual Buyer Seller Meet by India ITME Society Event Name Proposed Date Time Location Website

: : : : :

UNIQUE FEATURES OF THE EVENT ◆ Virtual platform enabling connectivity even from mobile ◆ AImatchmaking enabling best matches based on participant profiles ◆ Structured and pre-scheduled meetings ◆ A total of 7310 B2B meetings over a period of 2 days. ◆ Efficient interaction between all the participants ◆ Opportunity for efficient branding & promotion ◆ Virtual networking lounge facilitating informal interactions apart from fixed meetings ◆ Live admin and tech support for participants. ◆ Opportunity to display brochures /products. India ITME Society is working with its global & domestic partners to bring quality buyers to this Buyer Seller Meet.

India ITME BSM 2020 4th & 5th December, 2020 11.30 am to 7.30 pm IST Virtual Platform www.bsm.india-itme.com

India ITME Society a non-profit apex industry body announced free Virtual Buyer Seller Meet exclusively for India ITME 2021 Exhibitors on 4th & 5th December, 2020. This activity is offered free of cost to confirmed exhibitors of India ITME 2021 along with multiple additional benefits to exhibitors to compensate for delayed exhibition and support business during these testing times.

India ITME Exhibitions are pioneers in strategy for revitalizing trade, facilitating technology access, taking rapid actions in changing conditions, creating dynamic infrastructure ensuring continuation of customer connect and brand building for textile machinery sector.

Since the flag ship textile machinery Exhibition "India ITME "scheduled in December 2020 had been postponed to 8th - 13th December, 2021, in lieu of this postponed business event this interim Virtual Buyer Seller Meet is organized to bring back momentum to the networking & revitalize customer connect from the comfort of home / office. Meetings will be pre-fixed and both domestic and overseas buyers are confirming their interest for this unique opportunity to interact in a structured manner on their areas of priority.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Apart from Buyer Seller Meet in current year (4th& 5th Dec 2020), many additional benefits are being planned by ITME Society for its exhibitors to Reduced cost burden on site during live exhibition at IEML, Greater Noida. Cost of Utilities at venue is one of the ongoing negotiations with venue authorities and other 112

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NEWS in its commitment to the exhibitors and its ideology "Together we are Stronger".

government agencies. The utility charges shall be reduced, and full benefit of any discounts procured shall be extended to exhibitors.

For more details, please contact: MsSeema Srivastava Executive Director India ITME Society Tel.: 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834 E-mail : contactat@india-itme.com, admin@indiaitme.com; seema@india-itme.com, Website: https://itme2021.india-itme.com

Additionally, exhibitor passes proportionate to participation category shall be extended free of cost to exhibitor, over and above the scheduled numbers as per rules. This extra cost shall be absorbed by ITME Society. Exhibitors have expressed appreciation for the steps taken by ITME Society to support the industry during these difficult times. India ITME Society stands firm

LANXESS India wins prestigious awards from Indian Chemical Council Wins the following awards for the year 2019: ◆ Best Company for Management of Environment ◆ Best Company for Human Resource Management ◆ Certificate of Merit for Best Compliant Company under Responsible Care - Process Safety Code & Distribution Code ◆ Under the Nicer Globe Initiative of ICC, two drivers contracted by LANXESS awarded as 'Best Drivers'

mance. All the vehicles contracted with the company are GPS tracked and violations, if any, are recorded and corrective actions are taken including driver counselling by an external partner company - Hubert Ebner. The Responsible Care Award by ICC recognizes the organization's ongoing efforts in maintaining high Process Safety and Distribution standards through effective site management. Only 64 out of nearly 40,000 large, medium and small chemical companies in India are Responsible Care Certified and LANXESS is one of them. The awards were presented to all the winners on Friday, 25th September at the ICC Awards function held virtually in the presence of Chief Guest Rajesh Kumar Chaturvedi, IAS, Secretary, Department of Chemicals & Petrochemicals, Government of India and Purnendu Chatterjee, Founder & Chairman, Haldia Petrochemicals & The Chatterjee Group.

Specialty chemicals company LANXESS India has received multiple awards from the Indian Chemical Council (ICC), recognizing the organization's commitment and outstanding performance specifically in the areas of Environment and Human Resource Management under the 'Large Companies' category. It also won the Certificate of Merit for Best Compliant Company for two codes under Responsible Care - Process Safety Code & Distribution Code. Additionally, based on the Nicer Globe Initiative of ICC for Transportation Safety, two of the top three drivers who were engaged by LANXESS were awarded as the 'Best Drivers' for their disciplined performance towards road safety.

Commenting on the success, Neelanjan Banerjee, Vice Chairman and Managing Director, LANXESS India who has recently been appointed the Vice Chair of the National Chemicals & Petrochemicals Committee of CII (Confederation of Indian Industry) for 2020 - 21 and also Head of the sub-committee on Safety and Sustainability at CII, said "This is an extremely proud moment for us as we have been continually striving to set newer benchmarks in the areas of business processes and efficiencies with special focus on environmental topics and safety. We are privileged and honored that our efforts in these areas have been acknowledged by ICC."

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LAPF conducts Buyer Seller Meet at Tiruppur LAPF Studio conducts a week long Buyer Seller Meet at Tiruppur. First innovation meet post lockdown.

President and Global Chief Sales and Marketing Officer, Pulp and Fibre Business, Aditya Birla Group.

Liva has successfully concluded yet another buyer seller meet at its LAPF Studio in Tiruppur in association with Tiruppur Exporters' Association (TEA).

Partners from across 35 textile hubs such as Erode, Tirupur, New Delhi, Ichalkaranji, Nagpur, Mumbai, Surat and Ahmedabad participated in the meet. Happy with the response, requests for another meet have already started coming in.

A 10 - day meet showcased more than 150 innovations done by esteemed LAPF partners.

"At TEA, we always work towards buyer engagement and we find LAPF Buyers Seller meets as one of the best engagement platform. This meets surely generate enquires and help business growth of Tirupur cluster" said Mr. T. R. Vijayakumar General Secretary, Tiruppur Exporters' Association.

Recently launched Antimicrobial Viscose fibre based fabrics received an overwhelming response. Buyers appreciated the concept of injecting an antimicrobial agent at the fibre manufacturing stage, making the antimicrobial effectiveness an integral part of the fabric. Buyers also showed interest in eco-friendly, sustainable fabrics made using LivaReviva and Livaeco apart from collections made with Birla Excel, Birla Modal, Birla Viscose, and Spunshades by Birla Cellulose.

This was the first innovation meet post lockdown at the LAPF Studio, Jaipur, and the Studio took all safety measures such as temperature check, frequent sanitization and social distancing during the meet. Customers had pre-booked their appointments to maintain social distancing which enabled the hosts to pay exclusive attention to each of the visiting customers.

Sourcing professionals and designers representing Tom Tailor, Marc O'Polo, Redefined & OVS Sourcing, Eastman exports, Greetings Knitwear, Best Cotton Mills, Esstee exports and others have attended this meet making it a grand success. Sampling has been initiated for the requirements placed.

For more details, please contact: Ms. Karishma Punjabi White Marque Solutions 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West), Mumbai-400053 Tel.: 022-26335094-98 Mob.: +91 9833202231 E-mail: karishma@whitemarquesolutions.com

"There has been a rise in the demand for sourcing quality and sustainable products and LAPF Studio will continue to play the role of and enabler and give our partners the platform they require to grow their business" said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Group Executive

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JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website : www.textileassociationindia.org Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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LAPF Studio conducts a week long Buyer Seller Meet at Noida Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) conducted a week long "Buyer Seller Meet" at its Noida Studio where esteemed LAPF partners display their products made with all Birla Cellulose based Fibres.

with Birla Excel, Birla Modal, Birla Viscose, and Spunshades by Birla Cellulose. The meet was attended by Sourcing and Merchandising professionals from Garment Export Houses, Brands and Buying Houses. "LAPF Studio has been a sourcing enabler in the Textile Value Chain. Meet like this only facilitate it further. I also observe demand and interest for eco -friendly products have increased many-folds. I am glad that at in our business we have always prioritized on Sustainability more than anything else." said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Group Executive President and Global Chief Sales and Marketing Officer, Pulp and Fibre Business, Aditya Birla Group Partners across textile hubs like Erode, Ahmedabad, Delhi-NCR, Mumbai, and Nagpur showcased their collections. Over 50 buyers participated in this meet. Happy with the response, requests for another meet have already started coming in. This was first ever meet post lock down. And LAPF Studio has taken all precaution on sanitization, thermal checks and adequate measures for physical distancing. New approach of "Book Your Appointment" for exclusive attention at the studio while also ensuring social distancing was much appreciated by the visiting buyers.

Liva's recently launched Antimicrobial Viscose fibre based fabrics received an overwhelming response in this meet. Buyers appreciated the concept of injecting an antimicrobial agent at the fibre manufacturing stage, making the antimicrobial effectiveness an integral part of the fabric.

For more information, please contact: Karishma Punjabi White Marque Solutions 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West), Mumbai - 400053 Tel.: 26335094-98 Mob.:+91-9833202231 E-mail: karishma@whitemarquesolutions.com

Eco friendly, sustainable fabrics made using LivaReviva, LivaEco specifically piqued interest of potential buyers, while partners also showcased their collections made

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Lenzing turns commitment into action and launches carbon-zero TENCEL Lenzing turns commitment into action and launches carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded fibers to kick-start the decarbonization of the textile industry ◆

The TENCEL™ brand is now going carbon neutral with a "reduce-engage-offset" approach, which helps to reduce the product's carbon footprint, engage industry partners and offset unavoidable emissions to drive decarbonization in the textile industry.

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The TENCEL™ brand launches new carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers, certified as CarbonNeutral® products. The fibers will contribute to lower carbon emissions and energy consumption across the supply chain.

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As part of Lenzing's longer-term "true carbon zero" campaign, four key levers will be deployed to cover energy reduction, renewable energy, new technology and supplier engagement to achieve carbon-zero in the long run.

Following wider corporate commitments made by the Lenzing Group in 2019 to drive sustainability and combat climate change, TENCEL™, Lenzing's flagship brand for textiles, is introducing its very first carbonzero TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers to the market. Following the strict guidelines of The CarbonNeutral Protocol, the leading global framework for carbon neutrality, carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded fibers are certified CarbonNeutral® products for the textile industry. This means that the emissions associated with the fibers' production, manufacturing and distribution have been calculated and offset. Under the guidance of the TENCEL™ "true carbon zero" campaign, the TENCEL™ brand is contributing to Lenzing's commitment to the Science Based Targets (SBT) initiative and its continuous support of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals to limit global warming. To date, the Lenzing Group is the first wood-based fiber manufacturer with approved Science Based Targets in the industry. Lenzing's goal is to reduce its specific greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2030. Available from September, the newly launched carbonzeroTENCEL™ Modal and Lyocell fibers are contributing to this target through reduced production emissions and its industry engagement to lower energy consumption across the supply chain. In addition to offering new sustainable options to the textile and fashion industry, the new carbon neutral fibers show a clear commitment to Lenzing's earlier announcement of investing more than EUR 100 million in reducing carbon emissions in its operational boundaries and supply chain. All-new fiber journey towards achieving carbon zero Biodegradable and derived from botanic origin, fabrics produced using carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers will have a third party verified label, offering a new level of sustainable transparency to Lenzing's customers, brands and consumers. In addition to having a higher environmental value, the fibers will also feature the functional benefits of standard TENCEL™ branded fibers including gentleness on the skin, long-lasting softness, silky smoothness, enhanced breathability and color retention.

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NEWS The introduction of the new carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers is a key milestone in promoting the transparency of raw materials used in textile products.

and product emissions. Not only that, but due to the position of Lenzing in the supply chain of many fashion retailers, this certification sends a message of commitment toclimate action for the textile industry. We are delighted to be working with Lenzing and look forward to supporting the company to achieve its future climate commitments."

According to Lenzing's Global Consumer Perception Survey on Sustainable Raw Materials in Fashion and Home Textiles conducted in early 2020, respondents indicated that they actively educate themselves on sustainability through research around the production process of products before purchase. Most respondents also considered brands that are transparent with their ingredients and the origin of their raw materials as trustworthy. These findings demonstrate the significance of raw materials, echoing Lenzing's ongoing efforts to engage with its partners for new sustainable developments and educate brands and consumers on sustainability in textiles.

In parallel, the TENCEL™ brand is engaging industry partners and raw material suppliers to collaborate and empower brands to take part in the carbon neutral movement. To this end, Lenzing is the first cellulosic fiber producer to commit to the Science Based Targets initiative, as we engage and steer our industry to normalize supply chain transparency, source materials with low carbon footprint and thereby reduce overall carbon emissions.

Committed to "Reduce", "Engage" and "Offset" to support net carbon-zero by 2050 In late 2019, Lenzing pledged to reduce specific carbon emissions by 50% by 2030 and become net carbon-zero by 2050. Picking up on these commitments, Lenzing's TENCEL™ brand is taking action via the pillars "Reduce", "Engage" and "Offset", which actively reduces the product's carbon footprint, engages industry partners and offsets unavoidable carbon emissions.

Until carbon emission levels can be completely eradicated, the TENCEL™ brand will take actions to offset emissions by supporting verified global carbon reduction projects in areas that are linked to the textile industry, such as India, Bangladesh or Thailand. "We as a company and brand have taken steps to reduce our footprint, but not all emissions are avoidable. This motivates us to act on a global level and we found possibilities to help and support the avoidance of CO2 emissions around the world. The concept of carbon compensation through offsetting helps to contribute to carbon reduction through verified climate finance projects," said Florian Heubrandner, Vice President of Global Business Management Textiles at Lenzing.

With the priority of achieving continuous reduction of carbon emissions through more efficient production methods across the entire supply chain, using renewable energy sources and embracing new technologies, Lenzing is also working with the leading experts on carbon neutrality and climate finance, Natural Capital Partners, to achieve CarbonNeutral® product certification for TENCELTM Lyocell and Modal fibers. Natural Capital Partners requires an independent thirdparty assessment of the products' carbon footprint and works with the highest quality carbon finance projects which produce verifiable, additional and permanent emission reductions that meet International Carbon Reduction and Offset Alliance (ICROA) approved standards. Furthermore, carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers are produced using renewable energy, whilst also monitoring and engaging with suppliers.

"In the midst of such a climate crisis, Lenzing believes that every company must take action against global warming within its sphere of influence. We are extremely excited to embark on this new initiative featuring CarbonNeutral® product offerings under the TENCEL™ brand. This is a new step forward for Lenzing's overall corporate goal, enabling us to assist supply chain partners and motivate textile brands in reassessing carbon emissions in their production lines. Looking forward, we will continue to diversify our product portfolio following stringent internal guidelines that help to avoid greenwashing and involves consumers in the carbon neutral discussion," said Florian Heubrandner.

Tom Popple, Senior Manager, Climate Change and Sustainability at Natural Capital Partners, commented: "By achieving CarbonNeutral® product certification for two TENCELTM fibers, Lenzing has taken an important step in its long-term journey to reduce its company July - August 2020

Making a fundamental change in operations to reduce carbon emissions Guided by Science Based Targets to facilitate the seam117

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Chief Commercial Officer at Lenzing Group. "In parallel, we will continue to work with different partners, from brands and designers to NGOs, to build a more effective ecosystem that strives toachieve the common goal of carbon neutrality. While we continue to support our partners in their journey towards carbon neutral, we encourage everyone to join our 'true carbon zero' movement. With the clock already ticking, let us come together against climate change!"

"The launch of our carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers is just the start of an ongoing battle against climate change. As we continue to innovate our production processes and fiber offerings, we will look beyond being complacent about the inherent climate advantage of the woodbased fiber business model.

For more information please contact: Rita Ng Marketing Services Manager - Lenzing Phone: (852)3718 5675 E-mail: r.ng@lenzing.com

Our ultimate goal is to offer the carbon neutral benefit across our entire selection of TENCEL™ fibers and the textile supply chain," says Robert van de Kerkhof,

MLVTEC organized National Webinar on Industry 4.0 An online national webinar was organized on Wednesday 27-07-2020 on "Industry 4.0- Approach towards Smart Factory Operations", jointly organized by MLVTEC, Bhilwara (Raj); Sri Jayachamarajendra College of Engineering (SJCE), Mysore and The Textile Association (India), Rajasthan Unit. About 600 participants from India and abroad registered in this webinar. Which included Directors, Presidents and Consultants of well-known companies.

pert Mr. Ashok Junejaji gave an overview of textile and apparel industry and the existing textile and industry clusters and textile engineering industry-production, export and import. In addition, Mr. Ashok Junejaji apprised on 'Make in India' for Textile Machinery Manufacturing and also mentioned on the Textile Digital Library operated by The Textile Association (India) Marathwada Unit. He further said that in future for the knowledge enhancement for MLV textile students various Webinars on other topics will be organized by industry and academic institution. Keynote speaker Mr. SudhirMehani has stated the need for coverage of business and technology domains in the digital world. This webinar provided detailed information about the major benefits of Industry 4.0 and Internet of Things. This webinar covered the following topics: ◆ ◆

At the inauguration of the webinar, the Principal of the college, Dr. Dhirendra Sharma, introduced to the Chief Guest Mr. R. L. Nolakha (President, Nitin Spinners Limited, Bhilwara); Industry Experts Mr. Ashok Juneja (National President, The Textile Association (India); and Keynote Speaker Mr. SudhirMehani (Chief Digitization Officer, Marzoli, India).

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After that the Chief Guest of the program, Mr. R. L. Nolakhaji encouraged the participants and threw the light on the current scenario of the textile industry. He highlighted the importance of Industry 4.0 in the current circumstances. In the next session, Industry ExJournal of the TEXTILE Association

Industry 4.0 and IoT trends High efficiency and productivity at the end of integrated digital supply chains in the textile industry. Real-life examples on industrial process improvement through the use of IoT in the textile industry Industry 4.0: How textile firms are using technology to become smart, sustainable

At the end of the program, Mr. Dr. Dhirendra Sharma (Principal MLVTEC Bhilwara) and Mr. Dr. T. N. Nagabhushan, (Principal, SJCE, Mysore) thanked all the participants for joining the program. The coordina118

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Bhilwara and Mr. Dr. B. Manoj Kumar (Professor), Mr. Dr. S. Srinath (Assistant Professor) SJCE, Mysore together contributed to make this program a success.

National Handloom Week : Liva stands by the artisans and weavers across India Liva, the fashion ingredient brand from Birla Cellulose and part of Grasim Industries Ltd, Flagship Company of US $48.3-billion Aditya Birla Group, has supported over 150 handloom saree artisans and weavers across the country in 2019. On 20-08-2020 on the National Handloom Week, Liva has pledged to provide further support to artisans and weavers across handloom saree hubs in India including Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh), Orissa, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Tamil Nadu to innovate handloom sarees and reignite the demand.

ourselves to be an enabler. Liva has always been in the forefront of promoting Indian Textile Industry. We want to enable the entire value chain of the handloom industry to showcase their art, talent, and various applications across verticals. With LAPF Studio and through our accredited value chain partners, we're able to provide access to the handloom industry as well," said Rajeev Gopal, Global Chief Sales and Marketing officer, Pulp and Fibre Business, Aditya Birla Group. Artisans and weavers see access to new fabric and market as a win-win situation. "Liva didn't just provide a premium quality fabric, but also helped us in exploring new market," said GorelalPhoolchand Jain, Managing Director, Chanderi Handloom, Madhya Pradesh. Most users now recommend viscose fabric to produce premium handloom sarees. "The outcome of Liva in handloom products is commendable. Not only the feel is great but sheen, drape and fall everything is outstanding. Liva has given a new scope of development to handloom industry. I highly recommend Liva to every consumer and manufacturer," said Ahmad Hussain Chairman, Haji Usman Ghani and Company, Varanasi.The rich heritage of the Indian handloom industry dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization with the history of exports to Europe and Africa. The craftsmanship and talent of Indian Handloom industries has been unmatched ever since. After experiencing a lull due to the competition from cheaper imports; the sector is slowly getting back the recognition it deserves. The 'Vocal for Local' campaign by the Prime Minister is gaining prominence and there is immense hope that the handloom sector will get its due with increased awareness and emphasis on products 'Made in India.' For more details, please contact: Ms Mithila Anaokar White Marque Solutions 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West), Mumbai - 400 053 Tel.: 022-26335094-98 Mob.: +91 9326472331 E-mail: karishma@whitemarquesolutions.com

Through the association, artisans get easy access to a wider market and designers which otherwise would have be out of reach. Liva acts as a facilitator wherein the company ropes in designers and value chain partners and promote knowledge sharing on handloom sarees. By providing accessibility to the world of fashion through the association, Liva enables the artisans in the handloom saree hubs across the country to turn self-reliant.With this initiative Liva, the leading viscose player in the country, is introducing newer fibres such as viscose in the handloom sector as the industry gears up to stay relevant in the ever-competitive market. "As a major player in the viscose market, we consider July - August 2020

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New USTER STATISTICS data offers competitive gains New USTER®STATISTICSdata offers competitive gains

Fiber elongation: In conjunction with fiber tenacity, fiber elongation influences yarn elongation and the processing behavior of the yarn, since higher values will typically perform better in the weaving mill. For this reason, it was obviously beneficial to include fiber elongation in the latestUSTER®STATISTICS.

How spinners can improve quality consistency and get the most out of raw material Uster Technologies offers spinners valuable new insights into yarn quality optimization, thanks to its unique combination of expert monitoring of market trends and comprehensive statistical analysis. For example, there is evidence that fiber elongation depends more on the type of cotton than on fiber length. And not all neps are the same: there are significant gains to be made from differentiating between seed coat and fiber neps.

Analysis of USTER databases show that the correlation between fiber elongation and yarn elongation of a combed cotton ring yarn is at a level of 85%. Although the twist multiplier and yarn production speed have a huge impact on yarn elongation, the basis for high yarn elongation actually comes from the fiber. The elongation of cotton fiber conclusively depends more on the type of cotton than the fiber length.

Both these facts offer spinners potential for competitive advantages, arising from new data categories in USTER®STATISTICS 2018. This global benchmarking tool now includes revealing information about fiber elongation, as well as seed coat and fiber neps, and USTER explains how these can be exploited to improve yarn quality consistency.

When engineering laydowns for yarn production, experts know which yarn parameters are influenced by certain fiber properties? It is possible to offset small deficiencies in one fiber property with an improvementin another. If a low fiber length might negatively affect yarn elongation and twist level, a slightly higher elongation in fiber could help.

Immature fiber1

Seed coat nep or fiber nep? Ginning mills today increasingly focus on productivity rather than quality. At the same time, gins have not been upgraded to match the increased volumes of cotton. This suggests that a more accurate evaluation of cottons is now advisable for spinning mills. This can be achieved by assessing fiber neps and seed coat neps separately. The distinction between these two types of nep count is now possible in

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NEWS USTER®STATISTICS2018 - and this allows more detailed analysis and new benefits compared with the previous data covering only the total nep count.

For testing and analyzing the critical fiber raw material parameters for cotton spinning, the USTER®AFIS PRO 2is the right instrument. It operates with unmatched accuracy and speed to measure fiber neps, seedcoat neps, short fiber content, fineness, maturity, trash and dust - all of which influence yarn performance in manufacturing. That's why USTER®AFIS is the industry standard for process optimization in spinning mills - proven with more than 1,200 installations worldwide.

Firstly, the mill can optimize laydowns to manage a specific nep component. It can also optimize the specific nep removal efficiency. The spinner can even predict more accurately the level of white spots showing in fabrics made from the yarn after dyeing. A high level of fiber neps, with a high proportion of immature fibers, can cause these white spots. By analyzing the fiber nep level at the laydown stage, mills can adjust their processes accordingly - for example by focusing on fiber nep reduction during carding.

Optimal laydown recipe: The combination of textile know-how, current statistical data and advanced technology is the basis forconsistent yarn quality, despite changing conditions and new trends. David McAlister, Product Manager Fiber Lab, Uster Technologies, says: "We could consider the laydown mixes used in yarn spinning as a 'recipe' and fiber quality parameters as the 'ingredients'. We would then aim to adjust the ingredients to keep consistency in the recipe. With USTER®STATISTICS2018, we can determine the relationship of fiber properties to yarn properties and from that we can learn how to adjust the ingredients of the recipe for optimal performance. This is important for cotton, as it is not always possible to obtain the same or similar fiber qualities year-in and year-out."

WithUSTER®STATISTICS2018, spinners are recommended to adjust card settings and compare the sliver data with the fiber nep processing chart, to benchmark the data against other mills. Combined with monitoring maturity, spinning mills can avoid or reduce white spots. If these are discovered during processing, the yarn can be redirected into a different application - such as bleached white t-shirts - where immature fiber neps are less disturbing. Vital data, right instrument: Established in 1957, USTER®STATISTICS are a vital source of quality data for the textile industry and are now newly available as an app. The value of USTER®STATISTICS2018 is acknowledged worldwide, allowing yarn producers and their trading partners to compare quality levels objectively against global market standards. Testing thousands of samples each year during past decades allows USTER unique market observations - enabling it to adapt the scope of the Statistics accordingly.

The new USTER®NEWS BULLETIN No. 51 covers more trends in more detail under the title `USTER®STATISTICS 2018. The industry's quality language enters a new dimension´. Free download at www.uster.com/unb51 Readers will also find the section on `What's New´ in USTER®STATISTICS 2018 very informative. Contact for journalists: Edith Aepli On behalf of USTER Marketing Service Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 8610 Uster Switzerland Phone +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 91 602 91 edith.aepli@uster.com

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TAIWAN can play a major role in India's AATMA NIRBHAR Mission The East Asian country of Taiwan can play an important role in India's ambition to be a Self-reliant economy (AatmaNirbhar Mission). In the early days of the COVID pandemic, Taiwan was one of the first countries to supply medical equipments to India. India needs to engage Taiwanese business community in its efforts to promote local manufacturing of electronics, pharmaceuticals and other products. Already, Taiwanese firms such as Foxconn, Wistron and Pegatron are said to be holding discussion with India to set up mobile handset manufacturing unit in the country. Already, Foxconn and Wistron have manufacturing facilities for in India.

Although India does not have political relations with Taiwan, India conducts its consular and passport services through the India-Taipei Association (ITA) set up in Taipei in 1995. The association facilitates bilateral trade, investment, tourism and cooperation in education, science and technology. Last month, India appointed Joint Secretary Mr. Gourangalal Das as Director-General of India Taipei Association. In order to promote foreign investment from Taiwan, Government of India should clarify the applicability of paragraph 3.1.1 of the extant FDI policy, which was amended in April 2020. Government of India amended this paragraph to disallow foreign direct investment from neighbouring countries through the automatic route. Thus, foreign direct investment from countries sharing land border with India will be allowed only through the government approval route. Considering that Taiwan is officially part of China, which shares land border with India, it is not clear whether this provision will be applicable to investors from Taiwan. Secondly, India should also clarify whether it can allow Chinese citizens to work in Taiwanese companies based in India. These clarifications will go a long way in promoting bilateral investment in the near term.

India can also play a major role in Taiwan's New Southbound Policy, under which Taiwan aims to strengthen relations with South Asia. Both the countries share strong ties in infrastructure, electronics, automobile, sports shoes, technical textile, food processing, education and cultural exchanges. Trade between India and Taiwan stood at USD 5.7 billion in 2019-20, of which India's export was USD 1.6 billion and import was USD 4.04 billion. India exports naphtha, aluminium, chromium, manganese, chemicals, marine products, diamonds, communication apparatus and refined copper. India imports chemicals, solar cell, steel, electronic integrated circuits, digital cameras and parts used in machineries.

Rieter Wins Patent Dispute in China Rieter protects its innovations and products with patents and registered designs. The company takes consistent action against patent and design infringements. In mid-July 2020, in a legal dispute, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court of the People's Republic of China ruled in favor of Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH (Germany).

the coveted Rieter design. Rieter protects its innovations by means of patents and registered designs. The company takes consistent action against companies that infringe Rieter patents or designs and copy products or machines. In 2018, Rieter registered design infringe-ments by Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. in relation to double-head draw frames, and decided to file a lawsuit against the Chinese company.

Rieter machines stand for outstanding quality, high operational safety, excellent performance and userfriendliness as well as unique design. In order to benefit from these characteristics, competitors copy the successful Rieter machine concepts and even adopt Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In mid-July 2020, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court of the People's Republic of China determined 122

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NEWS that the double-head draw frames JWF1316 and JWF1316T of Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. are similar to and fall within the scope of protection of the design patent concerned. The defendant Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. was sentenced to compensate the plaintiff Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH for financial losses and expenses.

Tel +41 52 208 70 15 Fax +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.com Rieter Management Ltd. Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

For further information, please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer

New GOTS Staff and new GOTS Position GOTS appoints Regional Representative in South Asia and Head of Quality Assurance and Implementation Mr. Ganesh Kasekar has been appointed as the new GOTS Representative in South Asia (India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka). Ganesh, based in Mumbai, takes over the role of Sumit Gupta, the previous GOTS Regional Representative in India and Bangladesh with the additional countries Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Sumit will from now on serve as Head of Quality Assurance and Implementation.

chains. In his former position as Business Development Manager, he has already been involved with supply chain stakeholders internationally, contributing to quality assurance requirements in the textile and leather goods industry. The newly created position as Head of Quality Assurance and Implementation is taking account of the increasing workload GOTS is facing because of fast growing numbers of certified operations. Given Sumit'ssubstantial long experience within representing GOTS as well as contributing substantially to GOTS Quality Assurance and Implementation, we are happy that he is taking this next step with us.

Ganesh is a Textile Chemistry alumni of the prestigious institute VJTI in Mumbai and he holds over 17 years of experience in the textile industry with a special background in inspection and certification in supply

INDIA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY EXHIBITION INDIA-ITME Exhibition Postponded - December 2021 India Exposition Mart, Knowledge Park - II, Greater Noida July - August 2020

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TEXPA innovation produces fitted sheets all-around elastic band World premiere: TEXPA innovation produces fitted sheets with 90째 corners and 360째all-around elastic band

With the introduction of the first fully automatic line, TEXPA has succeeded in creating aninnovation that produces fitted sheets from the roll to the final product - with 90째 corners anda 360째 elastic band sewn in all the way round. TEXPA meets the demand for highest precision and quality from producers and endcustomers alike thanks to a self-developed system that ensures the exact shaping of all fourcorners. State-of-the-art robot systems guarantee a consistently reliable and personnel independentproduction. Built-in label dispensers allow for the positioning of labels in the hem as well as in thecorners - and with the feature to connect an additional automatic folding machine, theefficiency increases even more. The world's first automatic fitted sheet production line has already been delivered to arenowned German bed linen manufacturer. For more details, please contact: Marketed by A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited Bhagwati House, A-19, CTS No. 689, Veera Desai Road, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400 053 T: +91-22-6676 6100 E: processing@ateindia.com

TEXPA, the world's leading manufacturer of fully automated production lines for hometextiles, has taken automation to a new level with "FITTED C90 - 360".

Textile Excellence's vTexShow To Re-Energize Textile & Apparel Business Virtual Exhibition is New Real Way of doing business. Top industry players to participate

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Textile Excellence is organising vTexShow - virtual textile exhibition, from September 21-26, 2020. This initiative is launched to complement the industry's efforts to re-energize business in these challenging times. The show covers the entire value chain - fibres, yarns, fabrics, apparel, home textiles, dyes and finishes, Antimicrobial finishes, textile machinery, and the latest addition to the textile industry - PPE manufacturers. The PPE manufacturers who have not only contributed immensely to protect the countrymen but also demonstrated their ability to innovate in the hour of need by the nation. vTexShow will host the PPE mak124

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NEWS vTexShow to support the business. It is important for the industry to remain viable and adopt New Real Way of doing business. v Tex Show will bring the similar experience to exhibitors and visitors that one gets in a real world b2b show and shall be able to conclude business on a virtual platform. "Textile production has been hampered in last few months. The good news is that market movements have started for the industry, production capacity utilization have move up to 40-50% and green shoots are visible. vTexShow will act as a catalyst for re-energizing the industry as we are bringing in the best of the Indian and global players on to a single platform, which will be visited by top buyers and retailers from the important markets," said the show organisers.

ers and suppliers in a dedicated exhibition area to connect them with buyers and consumers. According to the organisers of the show, "This will be an effective platform for the entire textile industry to showcase their products and services, and to network with clients, customers, and peers. We expect 1800020000 serious visitors to the show, from India and from across the globe." Re-energizing the industry Necessity is the mother of all inventions! Covid-19 pandemic has devastated life, disrupted business and changed the way things were done! Mankind is quickly finding new ways to overcome the challenges and restart life in a safer mode. That leads to adoption of a whole new set of practices, new technology, new methods as new Normal.

Event Details: https://www.textileexcellence.com/virtualtextile-exhibition/ For more information: Henry D'souza: 096642 14853 henry@textileexcellence.com

Textile Excellence, knowledge partner of the textile & apparel industry for nearly two decades, is leveraging its b2b trade fair experience and technology to host

"Vocal for Local" - A Swadeshi Movement for Next Generation Manufacturing Mr. N. D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association, Mumbai, India. Addressing the nation on 13th May, 2020, Prime Minister Narendra Modi's through a slogan "Vocal for Local," announced, Rs 20 lakh crore economic package to revive India's economy and overcome the crisis caused due to the COVID-19 pandemic under a self-reliant scheme "Atma Nirbhar Bharat".

Importance of "Vocal for Local" in Indian Textile Industry Depending on its own specialty many Indian products have already achieved their recognition in-house as well as globally since our heritage, however enough efforts have not been taken to sustain their importance during the next generation. These products can be taken on our agenda of "Vocal for Local" on priority basis involving Digital tools to promote and make userfriendly to next generation manufacturers as well as purchasers. Scope of "Vocal for Local" to make Indian Textile Engineering Industry- ATMA NIRBHAR India's textile machinery trade with the world was US$ 4857.91 million (12.31%) in 2018, out of which imports contributed to 83% i.e. US$ 4032 million; while Exports were only 17.29 % i.e. US$ 839.78 million. China, Japan, Germany, Singapore and Italy were the top five sourcing markets, while Bangladesh, Germany, Turkey, Vietnam and the Netherlands, and were top Export markets for India. China supplied US$ 1445.77 million

The call is to help in expanding the startup ecosystem by multi-folds, thereby aiding the country's aim to become a $5 trillion economy by 2025, by creating more local brands and taking them to the global arena. July - August 2020

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NEWS (36 % of total India's Imports) Textile Machinery to India.

investment incentives, time bound tariff protection, ensuring that progressively they will also export.]

At the same time India's production of Textile Machines, Spares and Accessories is Rs 6,865 Crores, fulfilling only 46.61% of Home -consumption to a tune of Rs 3,200 Crores against the demand of Rs 13,004 Crores which is 52.71%. The involvement of Entrepreneurship states that about 40-45% are manufacturers and the rest are Traders/gents/Dealers.

A detailed study on following aspects will help in execution of the concept 'Vocal for Local' at Grass -Root level through ATMA NIRBHAR BHARAT initiative. ◆ ◆

The above statistics call for pursuing progressively to reduce our overall import dependence, especially from China, to become ATMANIRBHAR. In such an exercise, imports from China no doubt require close scrutiny, considering their size in our import profile and even higher share of the bilateral trade deficit in our total merchandise trade imbalance.

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After interacting with few Entrepreneurs involved in the business of Chinese products, following findings are noted:a. Machines & spare parts manufactured by Indians are at par/more effective in durability /quality than Chinese products used in India, but at higher cost.[Govt. of India should support through 'Makein-India' initiative to bring down the manufacturing cost.] b. Chinese machines & spare parts used by Indian machinery manufacturers; [Govt. of India should encourage Local manufacturer to indigenously manufacture under 'Make-in-India' initiative and convey message that we not only want to make products for India but make them for the world indicating that we are also aiming at competitive manufacturing and not import substitution at any cost.] c. Chinese machines & spare parts used by Indian Textile Mills [If the government promotes technology among Indian manufacturers by offering a TUF scheme for TEI, there may not be any need for TUF for the textile industry as machinery and parts will be available at 40-60% lower cost d. Chinese machines & spare parts exported by Indian Traders/Agents to other countries from India [Govt. of India to support through Export incentives for Indian Products] e. Machines & spare parts of non-Chinese companies manufactured in China and sold in India [effort to invite such foreign producers to locate their manufacturing in India by offering them attractive Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Which machines and Spares/Accessories heavily depend on imports right now and cannot immediately scale up production domestically? Which machines and Spares/Accessories partially depend on imports to make their finished products? Are there any machines, spares and accessories that are already self-reliant, have minimal dependence on imports or have the capacity to immediately scale up production here? What are the issues with scaling up production in import dependent sectors? What policy measure does industry need for greater local production?

We are aware that European Technologies, even being expensive, are preferred globally due to their sustainability and Artificial Intelligence (AI) systems and being user-friendly and environment friendly. Inception of these machines, especially pre-owned has taken place in huge numbers in India under TUF scheme. China offered workshop facilities for many European machinery manufacturers and taking this opportunity, developed very cost effective machines with European technology standards under reverse engineering techniques and was able to target India as their major export market. It's a matter of time when Indian Entrepreneurs realized and as learnt from them, that these machines could not give sustainable performance due to lack of good quality metallurgical aspects, while manufacturing in order to deliver a lowcost Product. Following suggestions may be considered for preparing Indian TEI to be ATMANIRBHAR and promote through 'Vocal for Local' concept, taking it further 'Focus on Local for World'. ◆ MSMEs TE Units As more than 80% of Indian TE Units are MSMEs, their technological base and state-of-the art set-up of their factories to deliver a quality and competitive products in accordance with International Standards it calls for i) Trainings on 5s, Kaizen, Six Sigma Yellow/Green 126

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NEWS Belt/ Lean for development of man-power; ii) LEAN Competitive Scheme for the Process and Infrastructure development; iii) in-house Projects with TRAs for Product/Design development; iv) Certification of the Business - ZED, ISO, etc. v) strengthen Backward Integration i.e. Machine Tools ◆ Creating an Eco-system for innovations & technology development in Textile industry" A gap between the Supply Chain CONNECTIVITY due to USER Industry (Textile Manufacturers in Spinning, Weaving, Processing, Knitting, Garment, Apparel) comes under the control of MOT(Ministry of Textiles), while SUPPLY Industry (Textile Machines, Spares & Accessories Manufacturers) & Machine Tool Industry comes under DHI (Ministry of Heavy Industry); if overcome then it will encourage Innovation/ Technology Development Projects for TEI from the User Industry under MOT development schemes. ◆ Creating Accessories and Spares Depot in the Textile Parks for ease of doing business ◆ Technology scouting missions for Product/Design development through in-house Projects with TRAs like NRDC, CSIR, ISRO, etc. ◆ Textile Centres for rendering after Sales and Technical Services ◆ Common Facilitation Centres ( CFCs) - (to facilitate conceptualization and implementation for projects, training of technical staff of manufacturers, organizing workshops and seminars, facilitation in obtaining government subsidies for projects, etc. They also facilitate trials and feedback from user industry to enable rapid commercialization)

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'Focus on Local for the World' It is also essential to extend the slogan 'Vocal for Local' to the next stage "Focus on Local for the World" in order to develop those Products as consumed at National and International level but presently are not manufactured indigenously. However it is essential to consider religiously the availability of raw material, man-power, infrastructure, natural resources and technology while developing the Product at World class standard and at competitive price. ◆ ◆ ◆

Digitalization The technique /tool meaning instant connectivity with anyone, anywhere, anytime at mere cost, will play a very vital role in taking the concept 'Vocal for Local' more effectively to every corner and part of businesses. In this Era of Digitalization new technologies like going green, smart manufacturing, industry 4.0, etc. will place a challenge for this concept 'Vocal for Local' as it demands the suppliers and consumers of the Swadeshi Products to be acquainted with these technologies. Realizing the same, Government of India has thoughtfully introduced 'Make-in-India,' 'Skill-in-India' and 'Startup India' simultaneously, whereby the slogan 'Vocal for Local' will go hand in hand with all three, helping India to be "ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT."

If we can rapidly progress to a stage of 'plug and play' concept Export Cells of Textile Engineers to promote Indian Textile Machines, Spares & Accessories in the Textile Producing Countries Special Pavilions of Indian Textile Machines,

July - August 2020

Spares & Accessories in National & International Exhibitions Business Scouting Missions during International Events. SMART DATA CENTRE - Authentic DATA of Production, Export & Import of Capital Goods sector (Finished/Complete Machinery, Assemblies/ sub-assemblies & Components, Hi-tech machineries and technology components) to help individual TE units in business, Engineering Associations in preparing strategies for its members, guide Research Associations and Industry Experts in Research and Turnkey Projects.

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Workwear gets sustainable and soft with Arvind x TENCEL™ range TENCEL™, the textile specialty fiber brand under Lenzing, has announced its partnership with the textile and garment major Arvind Ltd. and have recently launched a collection of trendy, stylish sustainable shirts and suiting for men. Quarantine clothing goes green with the perfect balance of comfort and performance. Made using superior fabrics consisting of TENCEL™ branded fibers, The Arvind x TENCEL™ collection allows customers to make a conscious choice and give back to the environment. This partnership marks a key milestone in the sustainability journey of TENCEL™ fibers that brings a good range for the menswear segment.

The current scenario has increased the focus on outfits which keep you comfortable through the day and this collection helps provide a good solution. The collection has been created with the utmost care and an eye for detail, allowing it to be worn across the year. It's light, soft, biodegradable and it consumes less water and syncs well with trends and style. Features in workwear like softness and breathability which have been a key parameter for womenswear are now equally important for men as well, this is one of the key benefit male consumers can expect out of this range. Customers looking to purchase this can visit arvind.nnnow.com or any of the 135 The Arvind Stores across India. The incredibly stylish yet comfortable collection is priced at a range of Rs. 1799 - Rs. 2299. Commenting on the collaboration, Avinash Mane, Commercial Head, South Asia, Lenzing AG shared, "At Lenzing, we are always working closely with different partners to minimize the environmental footprint of the fashion industry and help consumers make conscious purchases. It is encouraging to see that Arvind, shares this value and is setting out to positively influence the community." Speaking about the collaboration, Pranav Dave, CMO - Arvind Limited mentioned, "From innovation in fibre to sustainability in fashion, Arvind has been revolutionizing the fashion industry and powering high-fashion brands across the world with continuous innovative offerings.Therefore, it was only natural for us to partner with TENCEL™ brand. Staying true to TENCEL™'s core promise- each garment is light and breathable with added performance features and at the same time is high on sustainability. TENCEL™ branded fibers are derived from sustainably managed forests and manufactured using an award-winning closed-loop process that produces fibers with a significantly lower carbon footprint and thus helps lower the ecological balance. With features like smoothness, breathability, colour retention and biodegradability, this is the perfect alternative option for both brands and consumers moving towards eco-fashion

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NEWS TENCEL™ Lyocellfibers provide a less favourable environment for bacterial growth, offering better hygienic qualities. Moisture management and thermal regulation fiber properties can be found in TENCEL™ Home and TENCEL™ Active branded fabrics.

About TENCEL™: TENCEL™ is the textile specialty brand under The Lenzing Group that covers textile specialty product offerings for apparel and home. The TENCEL™ product brand portfolio defines a new evolutionary step in terms of sustainability, functional benefits, and natural comfort and caters for distinctive everydayusage or application. Product brands under TENCEL™ includes TENCEL™ Active, TENCEL™ Denim, TENCEL™ Home, TENCEL™ Intimate and TENCEL™ Luxe.

Fibers used under the TENCEL™ brand are derived from certified and controlled sources following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy. Namely TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Lyocell, both cellulosic fibers are produced via responsible production processes and are compostable and biodegradable. TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Lyocell are designated by the USDA (U.S. Department of Agriculture) BioPreferred® Program.

Featuring botanic origin and biodegradable quality, TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Lyocellfibers can enhance breathability of fabrics and have minimal static charge when used in fabrics. Fabrics made of TENCEL™ Modal and Lyocellfibers are also gentle on skin with smooth, long-lasting softness, colour vibrancy and colour retention features. Through moisture management, TENCEL™ Lyocellfibers absorb moisture efficiently. With less available moisture formed on the surface of the fiber for bacteria to grow,

TENCEL™, VEOCEL™, LENZING™, REFIBRA™, ECOVERO™, LENZING MODAL™, LENZING VISCOSE™, MICROMODAL™ und PROMODAL™ are trademarks of Lenzing AG.

New Loepfe Product Boosts Weaving Productivity Loepfe Brothers Ltd. has announced today the launch of its new WeftMaster SFB - the first of several of planned launches featuring latest technology products aimed at maximizing productivity in weaving mills.

Designed for fitting to projectile and rapier looms, the WeftMaster SFB controls the tension for all yarn types, thus minimizing weft thread breaks. Braking start is optimized through precise projectile detection allowing increased loom speeds and promoting higher output. The WeftMaster SFB brakes also feature reduced yarn abrasion and higher wear resistance. Loepfe's Head of Products & Solutions Guido Wieland commented: "Today, it's all about productivity and maximizing return on investment. The WeftMaster SFB helps our customers in the technical textile business to increase production while, effectively, prolonging the life of their original equipment. We know there are still many owners of mechanically-braked weaving looms out there, so would urge them to contact us - there's never been a better time to adopt a well-proven and reliable electronically-controlled solution!"

Weft Master? SFB Weft Thread Brake

Loepfe CEO Dr. Ralph Mennicke added: "Despite the continuing Covid-19 crisis, a few months ago we announced our intent to transform the company and bring new products to the market. While our transformation

The WeftMaster brand carries with it a long heritage of international success and reputation for Swiss engineering quality. The WeftMaster SFB weft thread brake has now been upgraded with new electronics to control up to four brakes. July - August 2020

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NEWS is already well-advanced, many congratulations to the whole Loepfe team for their excellent work to facilitate the launch of the new WeftMaster SFB product today. We are all very excited about this and other upcoming product launches. Our customers can soon expect more new best-in-class products to support them as economic recovery gets underway."

For more details, please contact; Loepfe Brothers Ltd. Guido Wieland Kastellstrasse 10, 8623 Wetzikon Switzerland Tel.: +41 43 488 11 11 E-mail: info@loepfe.com Visit : www.loepfe.com

Rieter Investor Update 2020 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Significant recovery in order intake in third quarter 2020 Order intake of CHF 425.1 million after nine months COVID crisis management in place Continuous implementation of the strategy Outlook 2020

the new machinery business was already characterized by investment restraint in the first three quarters of the year 2019. The Business Group Components recorded a reduction of 33% to CHF 116.6 million while the Business Group After Sales posted an order intake of CHF 74.0 million, a decrease of 23%. This illustrates the effects of low capacity utilization at the spinning mills, especially in the second quarter of 2020 as a result of the COVID19 pandemic.

The market recovery, which Rieter reported in June 2020, has continued. This is reflected in capacity utilization at spinning mills worldwide, which Rieter monitors. In April 2020, the proportion of producing spinning mills was around 40% while at the end of September 2020 this was around 90%.

The order backlog as of September 30, 2020, was around CHF 515 million (September 30, 2019: CHF 285 million). Cancellations were in the normal range of around 5%.

Against this backdrop, the Rieter Group increased order intake in the third quarter of 2020 to CHF 174.4 million (2nd quarter 2020: CHF 45.7 million).

COVID Crisis Management in Place Rieter has quickly implemented comprehensive COVID crisis management. Priority is being given to protecting employees, fulfilling customer commitments and ensuring liquidity. The necessary measures to protect employees have been implemented worldwide and the order backlog is being processed largely as planned.

In the first nine months of 2020, the Rieter Group achieved a cumulative order intake of CHF 425.1 million (2019: CHF 524.5 million). Compared to the previous year period, this represents a decline of 19%. Due to the positive development in the third quarter of 2020, order intake at the Business Group Machines & Systems reached a total of CHF 234.5 million in the first nine months. The reason for the relatively small decline of 8% compared to the previous year is that

Rieter has introduced 40% short-time working in Switzerland and Germany for the second half of 2020. Similar measures were implemented worldwide within

Order Intake by Business Group CHF million

January - September 2020

January - September 2019

Rieter

425.1

524.5

-19%

-18%

Machines & Systems

234.5

255.8

-8%

-7%

Components

116.6

172.9

-33%

-31%

After Sales

74.0

95.8

-23%

-20%

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NEWS difficult to forecast sales and profitability for the second half of 2020. For this reason, Rieter refrains from providing more specific information for the full year 2020.

the scope of the available legal options. As of September 30, 2020, Rieter had liquid funds of CHF 216.7 million and unused credit lines in the mid three-digit million range in order to ensure liquidity. At the end of September 2020, net debt of CHF 1.2 million was disclosed.

Presentation Material The media and investor presentation as well as the media release can be found at: https://www.rieter.com/ media/media-kit/

Continuous Implementation of the Strategy In recent years, Rieter has consistently implemented the strategy with the focus on innovation leadership, strengthening the business on the installed base and optimization of the costs. The company intends to forge ahead with the strategy in the coming months in order to strengthen the market position for the time after the COVID-19 pandemic.

Forthcoming Dates ◆ Publication of sales 2020 January 27, 2021 ◆ Deadline for proposals regarding the agenda of the Annual General Meeting February 19, 2021 ◆ Results press conference 2021 March 9, 2021 ◆ Annual General Meeting 2021 April 15, 2021

The Rieter CAMPUS is an important element of Rieter's innovation strategy. Depending on the business situation, construction work is due to begin in the first half of 2021. Outlook 2020 As already announced, in terms of sales and profitability Rieter expects a stronger second half of the year compared to the first half of 2020. Nevertheless, due to the deferral of deliveries by customers, Rieter will also conclude the second half of the year ? and thus the full year 2020 ? with a net loss.

For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 /F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comRieter Management AG Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 / F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com / www.rieter.com

Due to the existing uncertainties, it continues to be

Truetzschler shed light on the recycling jungle Upcycling, downcycling, recycling and better use of raw materials are only a few terms for different sustainability efforts in the textile industry. The subject is complex and can have many different characteristics.

Outdated trousers become a top fashion item? Unfortunately, textile recycling is not that simple. In Germany alone, over one million tonnes of old clothes are collected every year. But this huge mountain of material has to be sorted, classified and processed before it can be used as raw material. Some of it is marketed as used clothing. Another part is used as raw material and further processed, for example to make cleaning cloth, insulation material in cars or even bank notes. And a very large proportion is destined to end up in the incinerator because of its poor initial quality.

On the one hand there is the raw material PET bottles, i.e. former one-way water bottles, from which fleece fabrics or even carpets can be made in the second life cycle. Yesterday's fashion items, i.e. used textiles, can also become a sought-after raw material and play a role in yarn production. A further recycling option belongs to the area of optimised raw material utilisation: Thanks to advanced machine technologies, high-quality yarns are nowadays produced from production waste or even from noils.

July - August 2020

The simplest recycling route: Water bottle with a future A basic distinction is made between chemical and mechanical recycling processes. The recovery of polyester granulate from PET bottles is assigned to the 131

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NEWS chemical side. The bottles are shredded into flakes, whose polymers are then dissolved. These dissolved polymers represent the spinning mass from which new fibers or directly a new web is produced.

the material has already passed through the blow room and over the cards, it is high-quality "waste". This is a recyclable raw material that is used, for instance, in banknotes or hygiene products or is spun into yarn itself.

For this process, Truetzschler Man-Made Fibers offers a line for producing high-quality carpet yarns, the socalled BCF yarns (Bulky Continous Filaments), directly from PET flakes. The process has three stages and consists of melting R-PET (recycled polyethylene terephthalate from PET bottles), spinning of a multifilament yarn via the spinneret, and subsequent drawing and texturing. Texturing refers to the permanent crimping of the filament.

Example for production waste: Blow room waste

It is also possible to reclaim the share of good fibers from production waste, such as blow room and carding waste, and reintroduce it into the spinning preparation process. A separate Truetzschler waste recycling line with particularly intensive cleaning by the Waste Cleaner CL-R increases the degree of opening and enables recycling down to the last good fibers.

However, fibers for short staple fiber yarns (Truetzschler Spinning) or for webs (Truetzschler Nonwovens) can also be the target. For the Truetzschler installation concepts, it makes no difference whether the polyester fiber comes from a secondary raw material or a virgin raw material.

Used textiles require many intermediate steps before the resulting raw material can be turned into yarn in a spinning mill.

Mechanical recycling The degree of difficulty of recycling processes always depends on the initial quality of the (secondary) raw materials. Blended fabrics, for example, represent a basic problem in the recycling of used clothing fiber materials - because sorting accuracy is really scarce on the used textiles market: Cotton, viscose, polyester, silk, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, wool, linen and other materials can be mixed together in one fabric. On the other hand, secondary raw materials can also be sorted by type: Waste or noils directly produced in the spinning mill are of excellent quality and can be perfectly recycled.

Prior to running on Truetzschler machines, the material must first be sorted and cut, before it becomes a single fiber again. The result are bales made of opened and separated secondary fibers, which can then be fed again to the spinning preparation.

The path to a new beginning The later the secondary raw material is obtained, the more complex the recycling process becomes. Waste from spinning preparation can be processed comparatively well. One example of this are the so-called noils, i.e. combed-out fibers and neps, which are undesirable especially where high-quality yarns are concerned. Since Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Example for regenerates: Fibers from torn jeans 132

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NEWS Bales made of 100% recycled fibers can be processed via a simplified Truetzschler spinning opening line. Additional intensive cleaning of the fibers is no longer necessary, as they have already been cleaned before being processed into textiles. When processing blends of recycled fibers and raw cotton or synthetic fibers, the use of a T-BLEND line is recommended. This can guarantee the accuracy of the desired blending ratio, even at the highest production levels. To avoid losing too many fibers in the preparation process, the recycled fibers are no longer exposed to a separate intensive pre-cleaning process, but are mixed with the raw material afterwards.

Thermobonding, after the addition of bicomponent fibers, and chemical bonding are also possible. Sustainability and recycling: More than just a trend The textile industry has put sustainability on the agenda. Efforts focus on environmental and resource protection, the substitution of chemicals, the promotion of sustainable fibers and humane working conditions.From cultivation to recycling or disposal, however, there are a variety of approaches to achieve these goals. As one of the leading textile machinery manufacturers, Truetzschler faces up to this responsibility. When designing our machines, we have been paying attention to shortened processes, optimised raw material utilisation, durable machine components and machines that significantly improve the recycling process, and not just since yesterday. Together with our customers we can thus make a contribution to a sustainable textile production chain. For more information, please contact: Laura Hartmann TrĂźtzschler GmbH & Co. KG Postfach 410164 D-41241 MĂśnchengladbach +49 2166 607 8052 laura.hartmann@truetzschler.de www.truetzschler.com

TrĂźtzschler Waste Recycling Line, for example for precleaning of blow room or card waste

These bales of secondary raw materials are not only used to produce yarns, but also carded nonwovens on Truetzschler Nonwovens lines. The classic method applied here is hydroentanglement.

Volkswagen India collaborates with NIFT for redesigning the dress code of sales and service teams - Shortlisted designs : 6 forward looking design themes have been shortlisted by the7-member jury team comprising of professionals from NIFT and Volkswagen India

- Unique opportunity to redesign for a renowned auto brand : A collaborativeplatform for young talents to showcase their creative concepts and design thinkingin recreating a more modern and authentic corporate dress code

Volkswagen India has collaborated with National Institute of FashionTechnology (NIFT) to design the uniform of the sales and service team comprising of10,000 employees. The competition focuses on the brand's mission to deliver thestrongest customer connection as the sales and service teams are the primary point ofcontact for any customer visiting the Volkswagen network.

- Eligibility for the competition : Individual entries from the 2020 Fashion DesignBatch of NIFT across the country - Received overwhelming registrations and strong competition : With over 45registrations, the Dress up VW challenge witnessed a stiff competition leading to10 semi-finalist and 6 finalists

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NEWS resonate with Volkswagen's brand values along with it being suitablefor professional settings, visually appealing, comfortable and convenient for employeesto wear and carry. The entries were submitted in the form of hand illustrated designs ordigital copies of design basis of which 10 entries were shortlisted. Further, a 7memberjury announced the top-6 finalists - Ms. AnkitaPattanath, NIFT Shillong; Ms. BhavikaSingla, NIFT Mumbai; Mr. Pratyush Panda, NIFT Gandhinagar; Ms. Priya, NIFT Patna; Ms.ShivaniPriya, NIFT Mumbai; Ms. ShiwaniPriya, NIFT New Delhi; who have been chosento create and present a prototype of their design for male and female version of SalesConsultant and Service Advisor; and only wearon for Sales/Service Manager. Thefinalists will be given 2 weeks to manufacture the prototypes. Commenting on this initiative, Mr. Steffen Knapp, Director, Volkswagen Passenger CarsIndia said, "Our goal is to make Volkswagen more approachable and vibrant, andthrough this unique collaboration, we get to witness the creativity and innovation of theyoung talents across NIFT in the country. We congratulate the top 6 finalists and lookforward to their reinventing designs that resonate with our new brand philosophy &customer experience."

Bhavika Singla - NIFT Mumbai

AnkitaPattanath - NIFT Shillong

Pratyush Panda - NIFT Gandhinagar As part of the 'Dress up VW challenge', the Fashion Design batch of 2020 had to submitattire design for four categories, both male and female (Hostess, Sales Consultant/Service Advisors, Sales/Service Manager and Specialist). The design requirementnecessitated it to Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Priya - NIFT Patna 134

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NEWS Shri Shantmanu, IAS, Director General - NIFT said, "We're extremely delighted tocollaborate with Volkswagen through the 'Dress up VW challenge' that provides ourstudents an opportunity to solve real-world design challenges. Our students can applytheir learnings to develop purposeful design that understands and integrates the brandphilosophy with the target audience."

Prof. Dr. VandanaNarang, Dean - Academics, NIFT said, "Design plays an integral rolefor any business as it's a representation of a brand's ethos and personality. WithVolkswagen India 360 degree rebranding exercise, we are extremely delighted toassociate with them through the dress code network challenge. Our students are happyto participate in this unique opportunity that enables them to represent Volkswagen'snew brand design language of being more modern, human, flexible, and colorful throughtheir designs. Our students would work closely to understand Volkswagen's targetaudience that would provide them the relevant insights while designing the networkdress code." The final round will be conducted on October 20, 2020 in Mumbai, where the winner willbe awarded a prize money of INR 50,000; the runner-up will get INR 30,000 and thethird runner-up will receive INR 10,000.

ShivaniPriya - NIFT Mumbai

For more details, please contact: Volkswagen Communications GaganMangal Head of Press Communication Tel: +91 88793 00107 gagan.mangal@volkswagen.co.in ShiwaniPriya - NIFT New Delhi

This may interested you! Cotton Yarn Dyed Shirting Fabric - Today and Tomorrow Dr. Arun M.Thakare In today's Global market situation in Cotton Shirting Fabric quality, Piece Dyed Fabric, Printed fabric, and Yarn Dyed fabric varieties are available as manufactured in many textile mills in world. Yarn dyed fabric having good market for Men'sShirting; Tops for Women's wear, for kids and some fashion wear uses. In India today and tomorrow good market potential for yarn dyed shirting fabric. Many branded shirting in our domestic market and also in Global market. Major brands M&S, Walmart, USA Polo, Benneton, Zodiac, Colour Plus, Black Berry and many. Textile Composite mills in India producing Piece dyed, Printed, and yarn dyed in various counts in cotton as per customer's requirements. Count varies from 24s, 30s to 80s, 100s, 2/120s. 2/200s i.e.from coarser to very fine variety valuable shirting fabric. Starting production of yarn dyed fabric, main Raw July - August 2020

material is Cotton Yarn. Yarn Quality : To select yarn quality as per end use of fabric,i.e.whether for Stripe, Checks, Chambray,100 % Colour woven (warp and weft yarn dyed), Fil A Fil,Dobby design fabric. While selecting Yarn quality, to consider following parameters: ◆ Yarn RKM ie strength ◆ % Elongation ◆ U % and its CV % ◆ Hairiness Index ◆ Imperfection level ◆ Classimat faults, to consider long thin and thick places ◆ Yarn appearance board to compare with ASTM board,

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NEWS ◆

A B C D For say Fil A Fil, Chambray, 100 % warp and weft yarn dyeing quality, yarn quality is very important to have good RKM value, less classimat faults, i.e. less long thin and thick places, good yarn appearance ieA grade.Abnormal yarn quality will affect fabric appearance i.e.neps, thick, thin places are visible,affecting fabric appearance, customer will not accept such fabric. QA to consider above while selecting yarn for specific quality looking at end use and customer brand. Yarn dyed fabric before bulk production, following route to follow. 1. Desk loom route 2. Yardage / Blanket route 3. CAD route Sometimes customer can accept Desk loom, and give bulk order considering Deskloom. Some customers mostly branded ones ask for Yardage of length 10 to 25 meter length. LAB have to match the shade perfectly of Desk loom, Yardage all shades and QA as independent of production have to take decision as per customer Std.sample. If not matching, need to redo the process. LAB have to select Reactive or Vat dyes ( class of dyes as per customer need),considering non metameric recipe ,so as to match in light cabinate in D65, TL 84 , as specified light source by customer.Fastness of shades is important. Should be tested in LAB, accordingly proper dyes must be selected,also to consider mercerization fast dyes. Below given some factors which affects desk loom not matching ◆ Some Yard dyed skein is not matched by shade development team in lab. ◆ Picks in desk loom is different than standard , though shade is ok, picks difference causes desk loom matching problem ◆ Uneven picks difference in chambray sample. ◆ Shade ref given by Technical designing department, sometimes not matching as per STD. ◆ Shade ref. given from shade library by Shade development team, or technical designing team member is not correct i.e. not matching as per STD. ◆ Whiteness in std. sample and in desk loom sample is different in whiteness value and tone,causing look different of desk loom. ◆ Weave of Desk loom is slightly different than Std. sample ◆ In CAD desk loom ref. given below CAD (Colour palate), though dyed shade is matching to it,but overall look is not matching to CAD cutting. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Construction difference in std. and desk loom sample ◆ Sometimes std.given with different design, only for colour ref.,though shade matched with it,due to different design, overall look could not get matched. Thus need to consider all above factors while matching desk loom perfectly to satisfy customer. Other route to submit samples to customer is yardage/ blanket of 5 to 40 meters as per customer's need.It is processed as per bulk process route before bulk production. It is useful for Garment maker to check all properties, do wearer trial to access fabric appearance at Garment stage. Once bulk order is received, in yarn dyeing with Reactive or Vat dyes, as per different shades lots to be dyed and then tested for shade and fastness in LAB/ QA. QA testing on fastness wrtMercerisation is important, otherwise in process mercerisationcolour may bleed and affect fabric. In LAB while matching shade, non-metameric recipe to be selected,and mercerization fast dyes. It should match in light cabinet in D65, TL 84 light source or other light as specified by customer. Checking outside is technologically not correct and outside light may cause different tone look of shade. QA department to do testing on Levelness of dyed package, wrt. top bottom variation. To make hose of one yarn dyed package, by making baby cones at different layers from top to bottom. Levelness checking is very important, otherwise any package variation will cause fabric defect of weft way band, streaky appearance in fabric of warp dyed shade. Especially Chambray, 100 % Colour woven and F A F quality, level dyeing is very much essential, thus checking critically at each stage in yarn dyeing, i.e. package density, its weight, loading on carrier, rewinding before issue to preparatory , bottom removal from each packages as per variation if any observed. Then while running in weft on loom, should run with 4 feeders with different size packages for weft Chambray, 100 % yarn dyed fabric quality. LAB and QA work is very important on matching, testing andapprovals, it will make RFT in producing yarn dyed shirting fabric process. It will also cause quick delivery to fabric inspection department and packing as per company lead time, customer deliverytime. This will cause customer meet their Garment making and its delivery asper Customer Requirement, to make customer delight, and likely to get order again.

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