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ISSN 0368-4636 Mar-April 2012 Volume 72 No. 6
Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai
Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHA Technical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai
Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKAR Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai
Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, Bangalore) Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai) Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai) Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (LEITAT, Spain) Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai) Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRAI (Texastech University, USA)
Contents Editorial - Good days are here again...? R. V. Adivarekar
363
An Investigation of Air Vortex Yarn with Different Blend Proportion G. Chandramouli
367
Developments in the Methods of Core-Covered Yarn’s Manufacturing M. Y. Gudiyawar, M. C. Burji & B. M. Patil
372
Dyeing of Natural Fibres with a Red Pigment Produced by Streptomyces Coelicolor Madhura Nerurkar, Jyoti Vaidyanathan, R. V. Adivarekar & Zarine Bhathena
377
Recent Developments in Inkjet Printing Technique in Mordern Era Kunal Singha
381
Study on the Effect of Antibacterial Finish on Silk and Lyocell/Silk Union Fabric Mariyam Adnan & J. Jeyakodi Moses
388
Investigation on the Multi-Functional Properties of Nano ZnO Treated Light Weight Denim Fabric D. Vijayalakshmi, R. Rathinamoorthy & T. Ramchandran
393
Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur)
National President
Mr. D. R. MEHTA National Vice-President
Dr. ANIL GUPTA Chairman
Mr. K. D. SANGHVI Vice-Chairman
Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Hon.Gen. Secretary
Mr. V. D. ZOPE Hon. Jt.Gen. Secretary
Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA Hon. Treasurer
Mr. V. N. PATIL Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board
Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Chairman P.A.C.
Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY Chairman B.P.C.
Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR Printed at :
Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Published by J. B. SOMA Pavitra Publisher 7A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS., Near N.N.P. No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065. M. : 9819801922 E-mail : jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com
Texspecial : Innovation in Sizing-Starch Free Cold Sizing Haresh B. Parekh
400
Texnotes : Stain and Spot Removal for Washable Fabrics Chet Ram Meena
402
OTHER FEATURES Unit Activities News Subject Index & Form IV ATA/GMTA Exam Schedule Advertisement Index Forthcoming Events
405 409 429 432 399 434
Good Days are here again...?
Editorial
Satyamev Jayate, the ambitious project undertaken by film star Aamir Khan has hit the right chord and has received a grand opening. It is definitely a show to awaken the mass on the serious issues in the society. The concept is simple and basic; it's one of its kind show where Aamir Khan with the help of some common middle class people try to unveil the darker sides of our society. Comprehending social issues like child labour, female feticides, child sexual harrasment and other health problems, it's the first ever show in Indian TV to be aired simultaneously on a private channel and national network. The actor made it clear in the show that he did not want to blame or criticise anyone or take perpetrators to court. "Sirf hungama khada karna mera maksad nahin, meri koshish hai ki yeh soorat badalni chahiye, mere seene mein nahin toh tere seene mein hee sahi, ho kahin bhi aag, lekin aag jalni chahiye," he summed it up. All said and done, the show is definitely up to its initial hype, its relevant stories are definitely an eye opener for the young and old. Looking at the approach that Aamir has taken of writing an application to the Government related to the issues with support from the whole country, makes us wonder if Aamir Khan is bringing about a small revolution in the country. Parallel to this revolution, another revolutionary step has been taken by the Govt of Maharashtra in relation to the Textile Industry with thoughtful textile policy and subsequent release of website. Government has taken note that almost 80% of the cotton grown in the state is processed by other states and hence other states are getting benefitted due to its value addition. The new textile policy is aimed to get
these benefits to the state itself which is a truly welcomed step. The minister also said govt had so far been providing a slew of financial incentives to the state's cooperative textile mills, but the new textile policy would imply extension of capital and interest subsidy to private textile mill developers as well. The highlight of the policy is that it provides for 12.5 per cent interest subsidy and 10 per cent capital subsidy for new co-operative and private sector textile units in the cotton growing belts of Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. The implementation of this policy is likely to attract investments to the tune of 400 billion INR and generate 1.1 million new jobs. Also, the Textile Department, Government of Maharashtra launched their website www.mahatextile.maharashtra.gov.in on 1st May, 2012. This website will be instrumental in getting timely information regarding this policy and the stake holders of this policy will benefit from this website immensely. So that's a thumbs up to The Govt of Maharashtra & Aamir Khan for their initiatives to develop this nation.
Prof. R. V. Adivarekar Editor, JTA
(Stamp & Signature)
SPINNING
An Investigation of Air Vortex Yarn with Different Blend Proportion G. Chandramouli* Kumaraguru College of Technology Abstract Innovation in the current scenario is not only focused on quality improvements, but also on economic way of producing a product. Air vortex yarn produced by Muratec, found to be slowly replacing conventional ring spun yarn. Now it becomes more difficult to produce Ring yarn due to scarcity of manpower, shortage of power and more supervision in many stages of process. The aim of the project work is to produce Air Vortex yarn & in Conventional Ring spun machine of Ne32/1 PC (18.45Tex) with various blend proportions such as PC-35/65, 65/35, 50/50.Currently air vortex is supplying spindle of size suitable for PC in feed silver hank(Linear density) and air supply of 0.65 mPa. Trials We are conduct with three different air pressure such as 0.45 mPa, 0.55 mPa & 0.65mPa. The structural analysis is studied using SEM. Physical properties and classimat are tested by using Uster tester. Statistical significance also verified with Minitab . Compared to Ring yarn among all 3 blends, 65/35 PC AIR VORTEX yarn is comparable and with 0.45 mPa pressure is optimum and it has no hairs & long thin faults. Key words Air pressure, Air vortex, Blend proportions, Hairiness, Spindle. 1. Introduction 1.1 Introduction to Ring Spinning Ring spinning is a continuous spinning system in which twist is inserted into a yarn by a circulating traveller. The yarn twist insertion and winding action take place simultaneously by means of a rotating spindle. Ring spinning is the widely used spinning method because of improved yarn quality parameters of the various used fibers and the wide range of yarn counts. Drawbacks of ring spinning can be ordered as; lower production rates because of heat generation in the traveller at higher speeds, hairiness and yarn breakage due to spinning triangle and frictions. Because of these problems, new spinning methods gain importance nowadays.
There is no non-twisted section, twists are given to the entire yarn from the center to the surface of the yarn. Twisting is concentrated at the thinner sections, while twisting is loose at the thicker sections and hairiness tends to come out.
Figure 1.2 : Ring yarn cross section & yarn structure
Figure 1.1 : Basic Principles of Cotton Spinning System * All correspondence should be addressed to, G. Chandramouli Kumaraguru College of Technology Coimbatore - 641049, T.N. E.mail:vgmouli@gmail.com March - April 2012
Figure 1.3 : Air vortex cross section &yarn structure 367
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1.2. Air Vortex spinning
SPINNING One of the newest spinning methods is air-vortex spinning. The tip of the fiber is focused to the center of the yarn by the vortex of compressed air so that the center of the yarn is always made straight without twist. The other tip forms the outer layer that twines another fiber. Since air-vortex spun yarn has the least hairiness as an advantage among all the types of spun yarn, airvortex enables to create textiles with characteristics such as anti-pilling and anti-abrasion performance. Airvortex's fiber structure itself is superior in moisture absorption and diffusion rate and thus provides refreshing comfortableness [1]. This method is the fastest method than other spinning methods. Spinning speed is quite high because there is no mechanical twist insertion device. This yarn is directly spun from draw frame sliver and it is very flexible i.e. various types of fibers can be spun at any fineness. Furthermore range of yarn fineness of air-vortex spinning is similar to that of ring spinning.
Figure 2.1 : Process sequence of Ring spinning & Air Vortex Spinning
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1.3. Literature Review • High nozzle angle and high nozzle pressure, reduced hairiness and it did not have any significant effects on yarn tensile properties. (Basal and Oxenham (2006) [2] ) • The delivery speed, nozzle pressure and yarn count were all significant parameters for yarn evenness, imperfections, hairiness and tensile properties. (Ortlek and Ulku (2005) [3] ) • The ring spun yarn has the highest tenacity, it has poor bulkiness and hairiness values with respect to the air-vortex yarn. (Soe et al (2004) [4] ) • The physical properties of vortex and air-jet yarns produced from different polyester cotton blends, results indicated that vortex yarns have tenacity advantages over air jet yarns, particularly at high cotton contents. (Basal and Oxenham (2003) [5] ) 2. Materials And Methods 2.1 Materials Materials used in our trials are Polyester 65%/Cotton 35%, reverse blend of Polyester 35%/Cotton 65% and 50/50. Blending is done at mixing stages and carded process. These are process controlled in the sequence of departments as per short staple spinning systems parameters as mentioned below.
Figure 2.2 : Muratec MVS Airvortex Spinning system
2.2 Experimental Design As already highlighted this project is an attempt to investigate the process parameter in Air -Vortex spinning. We have taken the main factors which will di368
March - April 2012
SPINNING rectly impact the yarn quality. These are decided considering the raw material (bulkiness nature of fibre), atmospheric conditions and work methods. Table 2.1 : Air Pressure Experimental design Sl. No Factors/Blend 1 2 3
35/65 65/35 50/50
Air Pressure(mPa) 0.45 Air Pressure(mPa) 0.55 Air Pressure(mPa) 0.65
0.45 0.55 0.65
0.45 0.55 0.65
3. Results & Discussions Material up to draw frame was processed in a controlled condition and checked materials in both online and offline testers. The material is then processed simultaneously in ring frame as well as Air Vortex with ambient conditions. The yarn was tested at SITRA and the results were tabulated as below.
Table 3.1 : Comparison between Ring Yarn & Air vortex Yarn CSP & IPI (Processed Count is Ne 32/1 Pc) Particulars
Ring Yarn
Airvortex
35/65 65/35 50/50
35/65
65/35
50/50
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
Ave. Count
31.57
33.3
31.04
31.52
31.37
30.9
30.47
30.53
30.52 30.98
30.72
30.64
Lea Strength
97.6
116
115.2
95
91.4
89.1
118.5
119.5
117.4 107.5
106.7
98.8
Cv% Of Count 3.5
1.65
1.76
0.65
0.6
0.96
2.44
0.72
1.02
0.69
1.09
0.7
Cv% Strength 6.05
4.74
5.5
5.14
4.96
5.29
6.72
6.98
6.15
4.37
5.86
6.01
CSP
3079
3879
3576
2994
2846
2753
3611
3661
3583
3331
3278
3028
U%
12.01
11
11.23
11.86
11.95
12.1
10.85
11.02
11.15 11.29
11.54
11.54
C.V%
15.38
14
14.38
15.05
15.2
.15.38 13.76
13.97
14.14 14.34
14.65
14.66
Thin/Km (-50%)
13
1
2
14
21
20
5
5
4
6
12
11
Thick/Km (+50%)
232
128
176
97
120
123
56
62
67
86
91
98
Neps/Km (+200%)
407
315
375
255
302
335
132
172
185
195
212
272
Total Imps/Km 652
444
553
366
443
478
193
239
256
287
315
381
Table 3.2 : Comparison between Ring Yarn & Air vortex Yarn RKM & S3 Ring Yarn
Airvortex
35/65 65/35 50/50
35/65
65/35
50/50
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
S3 Value
447.4
229
355.6
6
2.4
2
3.8
3
2.6
12.2
2.2
3.2
Index
38.22
8
37.43
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Single Yarnst.
360.3
429
404.8
322.6
310.2
308.7
417.1
407.4
399.8 362.2
354.8
350.9
Cv% Of Sys
9.21
8.25
9.4
9.29
8.68
9.83
8.17
9.84
10.47 10.38
10.38
9.43
%Elongation
8.16
9.6
9.22
7.58
7.51
7.43
9.59
9.47
9.33
8.53
8.31
Cv% Of Elongation
8.24
8.67
9.35
11.1
11.3
11.2
8.4
9.64
10.09 10.88
11.1
`9.61
RKM
19.52
23.3
21.93
17.48
16.81
16.72
22.6
22.07
21.44 19.62
19.22
19.01
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369
8.68
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Particulars
SPINNING Table 3.3 : Comparison between Ring Yarn & Air vortex Yarn-Classimat faults Particulars
Ring Yarn
Airvortex
35/65 65/35 50/50
35/65
65/35
50/50
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
0.45
0.55
0.65
A1
262
267
330
406
373
402
249
246
202
232
192
210
H1
142
49
175
42.5
61
17
14
10
4
17
25
28
A4
1
0
1
2
4
2
0
0
0
0
0
0
B4
0
0
2
10
13
16
0
4
6
4
4
5
C4
0
0
0
4
4
2
2
0
2
4
0
2
D4
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
C3
0
0
0
10
15
6
6
0
2
4
7
5
D3
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
E
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
F
3
2
4
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
2
G
2
0
1
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
SHORT THICK(A1+ B1+C1+D1)
297
324
385
491
521
507
305
296
268
290
236
248
LONG THICK 5 (E+F+G)
2
5
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
2
LONG THIN (H1+I1)
57
216
43
61
17
14
10
4
17
25
25
173
Air Vortex Yarn:
Fig 3.2 : Comparison of Air Vortex Vs Ring Yarn - Cotton Yarn
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Ring Yarn:
Figure 3.1 : Comparison of air vortex yarn vs. Ring yarn on appearance board 370
4. Conclusion • In Air Vortex, with all three PC blends (35/65,65/ 35&50/50) air pressure value of 0.45 Mpa (4.5 bar) gives optimum results in case of yarn quality attributes. Increased pressure results in over twisting, disturbing yarn formation. • Air Vortex yarn shows lower strength and elongation by about 10% than ring yarn may be due to lesser cohesion and parallel. • Air vortex shows lower imperfection than the ring yarn considerably may be due to better drafting March - April 2012
SPINNING and reduced sequence of process. In case of classimat faults it is comparable with ring yarn at 65/35 and 50/50 when blends where as 35/65 blends shows 30% higher classimat faults than ring yarn. It may be due to the setting kept for polyester fibre in cotton predominent (35/65). However in all blends, classimat long thin place is predominantly reduced by about 65% than ring yarn due to lesser sequence of process, low stretch in creel and due to lesser material handling by man and by machine. There is no hairiness which means that air vortex yarn shows 99% lower hairiness value S3 value than ring yarn. In hairiness point of view, S3 hairiness value may be even better than compact yarn. It may be due to the limited influence of air disturbance, better fibre alignment of fibre and other factors. Among the three chosen blends, 65/35 blend air vortex yarn shows better results than other two blends as well it is comparable with ring yarn of same blend in term of CSP, RKM, IPI which may be due to process optimized for Polyester.
•
•
•
•
•
It is better than ring yarn in terms of Hairiness & Classimat faults. All fibres are parallel to next fibres and twisted.
References 1. 2.
3. 4.
5.
Murata Vortex Spinner, No. 810 Instruction Manual, Murata Machinery Ltd., Muratec. Basal, G., Oxenham, W., 2006, "Effects of some Process Parameters on the Structure and Properties of Air-vortex Spun Yarn", Textile Res. J., 76 (6), pp. 492-499. Ortlek, H., Ulku, S., 2005, "Effects of Some Variables on Properties of 100% Cotton Air-Vortex Spun Yarn", Textile Res. J., 75 (6), pp. 458-461. Soe A.K., Takahashi M.,Nakajima M., 2004, "Structure and Properties of MVS Yarns in Comparison with Ring Yarns and Open-End Rotor Spun Yarns", Textile Res. J., 74 (9), pp. 819-826. Basal, G., Oxenham, W., 2003, "Vortex Spun Yarns vs Air-jet Spun Yarn", AUTEX Res. J., 3 (3), pp. rrr 96-101.
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www.textileassociationindia.org March - April 2012
371
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
• • • •
YARNS
Developments in the Methods of Core-Covered Yarn's Manufacturing M. Y. Gudiyawar*, M. C. Burji & B. M. Patil D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract Core-cover yarns add value to the yarns and fabrics. These core-cover yarns are manufactured on ring frame, rotor spinning machine and friction spinning machines by attaching simple devices. These attachments have been modified by many research workers to produce better quality core-cover yarns at higher production rate. Some new technologies are also introduced by manufacturers to produce corecover yarns. In this paper, developments in the attachment devices to spinning machines and other available technologies to manufacture core cover yarns are discussed.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Key words Air-covered yarn, Core-cover yarn, Filament yarn, Spandex and Spun yarn. 1. Introduction A core spun yarn structure consists of a core yarn surrounded by the fibre that is suitable for use as yarn. Core component forms the central axis of the yarn and other forms the cover. Core spun yarns are produced with core as continuous filament yarns such as polyester, nylon and polypropylene. The manufacturing process mainly consists of feeding filament to the spinning unit, where it is covered by staple fibers. With changing customer's demands for more comfortable, convenient and versatile clothes, elastic core-spun yarns have found a wide range of application areas in the textile industry [1]. Elastic core spun yarns have got number of applications in the textile industry and can meet the increasing demand for more comfortable versatile cloths. Elastic core-spun yams use spandex as the core and are covered with natural fibers or filament yarns. Elastic corespun yarns have also unique properties. They have the same feel as the shield fibers and possess good moisture absorption because natural fibers cover the outer layer. They are comfortable to wear and can modify their elasticity to fit different endproducts [2]. Elastic core-spun yarns can be used to produce fabrics of varying styles, hands and functions, and can be designed for woven and knitted fabrics according to their properties. Swimwear, active wear,
circular knit fabrics and narrow fabrics are the common applications for elastic-core spun yarns. Elasticcore spun yarns are also used for stretched woven fabrics and suitable for casual wears, jeans, corduroy, evening gown, outwear and bottom wears [3].
* All correspondence should be addressed to, M. Y. Gudiyawar D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji-416115 (M.S) E-mail - gudiyawar@yahoo.com
3. Conventional method of core-cover yarns production The most common methods for the production of corecover yarns are modified ring frame, modified rotor 372
2. Types of core-covered yarns Core cover yarns are mainly classified in two groups; Non-elastic and elastic. The non-elastic core-cover yarns contain filament such as nylon, polyester at the core and staple fibre such as cotton at the sheath. The non elastic core-cover yarns have the advantage of higher strength, evenness and less hairiness, but reduced extension. Elastic core spun yarn consists of elastic core around which non elastic staple or filament yarns are covered. Core-spun yarns containing spandex provide fabric producers with broad possibilities, because such stretchable yarns can be produced with a wide range of properties using virtually any kind of staple fiber as the cover material. Elastic core cover yarns exhibit greater uniformity in size, strength and other physical characteristics. The higher initial modulus or resistance to stretching contributing to better loop formation and reduced seam puckering, superior abrasion resistance and durability are the other advantages of elastic core -cover yarns.
March - April 2012
YARNS spinning techniques, friction spinning, air covering (entanglement) and twisting like ring twisting, two for one twisting, siro principle, hallow spindle technique etc.[4,14].It is possible to produce both non-elastic and elastic core-cover yarns on ring frame. Production of non elastic core-cover yarn on ring frame is shown in fig.3.1. The core yarn such as filament or spun yarn is introduced in to a staple roving just before it passes through the front roller of the ring frame. The two components are combined by insertion of twist and during twisting the core thread is buried with the considerable degree [5].
4. Developments in the methods of core-cover yarn manufacturing The conventional method of core-cover yarn manufacturing in ring frame has operational difficulties in piecing of broken filaments and also has the problem of inconsistent quality, naked core spot and core slippage. The piecing problem mainly arises due to mechanical obstruction between fibre channel and also restricted access to yarn formation unit. A. P. S. Sawhney et al [6] developed method as shown in fig 4.1 to overcome these problems by introducing an unrestricted open fibre channel that produces a core yarn with good cover factor and strip resistance. This method keeps the roving separated in the drafting zone with guide and roving spacer and then twists the drafted strand separately. The method uses the "sandwich principle" that twists a sandwich of core roving formed by two drafted strands. The drafted strands of the Roving emerging from the front pair of drafting rollers are drawn over core stabilizer bar. The bar has special groove for the core and an unrestricted surface for sheath roving. Two drafted
Figure 3.1 : Conventional method of non-elastic core-cover yarn manufacturing
Figure 3.2 : Conventional method of elastic core-cover yarn manufacturing March - April 2012
Figure 4.1 : Sandwich-type staple core spinning system
Strands form the cover and one roving strand in side to form the core. The yarn formed in this method is almost totally covered with covering materials, and shows virtually no sign of interplaying or barberpoling between the core-cover material. Good aesthetics improved strength and durability of fabrics show many applications for these yarns. These yarns are stronger as compared to conventional core-covered yarns. Wrap-core-wrap sandwich principle is shown in fig.4.2 to manufacture core-cover yarns [5]. The ring frame is retrofitted with a core stabilizer bar, which has a special groove for the filament core and polished surface for cotton wrap. Cotton roving required for the system is kept separated in the drafting zone of ring frame by 373
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Production of elastic core-cover yarn on ring frame is shown in fig.3.2. A positive feed roller is used for elastic yarn feeding to front roller of the drafting system. Elastic filament is stretched between the positive feed roller and the v-groove yarn guide. Elastic yarn delivery unit is positively driven, whereas v-groove guide roll is driven by the frictional force occurring between the top front rollers of drafting unit and the v-groove guide roll. The amount of elasticity and elongation in the produced yarn is governed by elastic yarn elongation and percentage of elastane in the final core yarn [4].
YARNS suitable positioned roving guides and condensers. Then the drafted strand of roving emerges from the front roller of drafting and then it is guided in to the groove in core stabilizer bar, which assembles the fibre to form the core-cover yarn. Core-cover yarns manufactured from this method shows better cross-section, strip resistance and greater strength than conventional corespun yarns.
ing zone with distance of 12.5 mm from each other, and three cores join the sheath before the front roller with specially designed condenser behind the front roller. The core covers yarns produced by this system offer better mechanical and physical properties and better abrasion resistance.
Figure 4.4 : Spread roller in Cluster-spun yarn manufacturing Figure 4.2: Wrap-core-wrap Sandwich method for production of core-cover yarn
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
C.W.Lou et al [7] reported a new method of forming the core spun yarn that has self designed multi-section drawing frame and ring frame. Drawing frame contained five pairs of rollers. The spandex yarn was stretched using the multi-section draw frame before it being sent to the front roller on the ring frame. The stretched spandex yarn was stable at centre of spinning triangle space and core was covered with staple fibres completely.
Figure 4.3 : Three strand Modified Method
Armin Pourahmad et al [8] modified the ring frame to feed three strands as shown in fig.4.3. In this method, core-cover yarns were spun by using three strands of roving as sheath fibres and three strands of multi-filament yarns as core. The roving's pass through a draft374
Ali Akbar G et al [9] modified the ring frame for the production of cluster spun yarn. The ring frame was modified with the slotted roller as shown in fig 4.4; the ring frame was retrofitted with a spread slotted roller, which has fine grooves for clustering of multifilament on the composite yarn. The filaments were passed over an adjustable tensioning device before clustering and joining the staple fibres at the front roller nip. Guide was provided at top of drafting roller, which ensured the accurate positioning of the filament at the center of drafted strand. This arrangement divided the multifilament in two or three or even four substrand to produce clustered spun yarns. The internal structure and structural mechanics of a cluster spun yarns have resulted in superior quality of yarns. These yarns showed improved tenacity, elongation and evenness. A common problem with core spun yarns made on a ring-spinning frame is the slippage of the staple fibers relative to the filament, which gives a length of bare filament with a clump of fibers at one end. This effect is known as 'strip-back' or 'barberpole' [4]. This fault may lead to incomplete core coverage and results in end-breaks in subsequent processing. Thus, a rather high level of twist is normally needed to build up the necessary cohesion between the sheath and the core components. The high twist reduces the production speed and thereby increases the production costs. Several attempts have been made in recent years to minimize March - April 2012
YARNS or eliminate the strip-back problem at low twist levels [5, 9,10]. Friction spinning system is also used to produce the core-cover yarns. The main advantage of this system is the accurate positioning of the filament at the centre of the yarn cross section [11]. Core-cover yarn is spun by introducing filament under tension in to the yarn forming zone of friction spinning [12]. In DREF- II system, the deposition and the twist of fibres on to the yarn-tail is to be replaced by a filament core to obtain full coverage of core. In friction spinning, core is false twisted by the rotation of the friction drums before being wrapped by the sheath fibres. Strength of the friction spun core-cover yarns have direct relationship with the strength of core filaments and number of sheath fibres that are active in generating radial pressure due to their structural helical configurations. Rotor spinning machine was modified for the production of core-cover yarns. The method of producing core-spun yarn with rotor spinning consists of feeding the elastane filament through the hallow rotor axis and the filament guide device by suction as shown in figure 4.5. The spandex filament was combined with the staple fibre strand to from the elastic core-cover yarn. The elastic core-cover yarn was drawn through the doffing tube and finally wound on to the tube
The manufacturing of elastic core-covers yarns [16] (air-covered) using air covering machine is also gaining popularity. The spandex yarn is covered by filament yarn with the help of periodic entanglements along the length of the yarn. The advantage of air-covering machine is its high production rate. The elasticity of core-cover yarn and entanglement point strength could be easily optimized by selecting proper process parameters of the machine. The important parameters that influence the air covered yarn characteristics are elastic yarn stretch ratio, overfeed to the jet, air pressure in the jet, take-up overfeed and delivery speed. The air covered yarn manufacturing process is shown in fig. 4.6.The air covering machine consists of two creels. One creel is for feeding elastic component and the other for feeding multifilament or monofilament. Elastic yarn is fed in stretched condition and other multifilament or monofilament is overfed. Elastic yarn is used to impart the elasticity in the yarn Multifilament yarn is fed to the
Figure 4.6 : Air-covering yarn process
take-up roller. In this method, no twist was introduced in to filament to enable maximum utilization of elasticity [13, 15]. Advantage of rotor process is the high productivity and its economical, shortened process sequence, compared to the ring spinning [13]. Increased bulkiness and improved evenness of yarns are the other benefits of rotor spun core-cover yarns [14]. Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) system could also be used to manufacture core-spun yarn byoptimizing the machine parameters and by using proper feed fibres [15] March - April 2012
Figure 4.7 : ATC combined Process 375
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Figure 4.5 : Modified rotor spinning for core-cover yarn production
YARNS draw roller directly from the creel, whereas elastic yarn is positively fed to the draw roller causing it to stretch. Both the yarns are fed to the jet together. The high air pressure in the jet creates entanglement points and the filament yarn covers the elastic yarn. The second draw roller withdraws the air covered yarn and delivers it to the winder. G. Saltow et al [17] developed a new combination process of core -cover yarn production as shown in fig. 4.7. The new combination method has facility to feed raw material as partially oriented yarn (POY) and combines the processes of drawing, texturising and air-covering. 5. Summary Many developments have taken place in the manufacturing processes of core-cover yarns. The various methods to manufacture the elastic and non elastic core cover yarns are simple and these simple modifications could be easily introduced in the spinning machines to manufacture wide varieties of core-cover yarns for meeting the requirements of various end uses. Acknowledgement We are very thankful to the institute for giving us permission to publish this paper. References 1.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
2.
Chidambaram Rameshkumar & Dr. N. Anbumani, Production and Properties of Core Spun Yarn, Published on http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry articles/production-andproperties-of-core-spun-yarns/production-and-properties-of-core-spun-yarns1.asp Ruppenicker, G. F., Harper, R. J., Sawhney, A. P., and Robert, K. Q., Comparison of Cotton/Polyester Core and Staple Blend Yams and Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 51, 12-17, (1989).
3.
http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/why-use-core-spun-threads-fordenim-sewing-in-place-of-spun-poly-threads/ sited on July 28, 2011.
4.
Osman Babaarslan, Method of Producing a Polyester/Viscose Core Spun Yarn Containing Spandex Using a Modified Ring Spinning Frame, Textile Res. J., 71 367- 371 (2001).
5.
A. P. S. Sawhney, G. F. Ruppenicker, L. B. Kimmel and K. Q. Robert. Comparison of Filament-Core Spun yarns Produced by New and Conventional Method, Textile Res. J., 62 (2), 67-73, (1992). 376
6.
A. P. S. Sawhney, K. Q. Robert, G. F. Ruppenicker, and L. B. Kimmel. Improved Method of Producing a Cotton Covered /Polyester Staple - Core yarn on a Ring Spinning Frame, Textile Res. J., 62 (1), 21-25, (1992).
7.
C. W. Lou, C. W. Chang, J. H. Lin, C. H. Lei and W. H. Hsing. Production of Polyester Core-Spun with Spandex Using a Multi-section Drawing Frame and a Ring Spinning Frame, Textile Res. J., 75 (5), 395-401, (2005).
8.
Armin Pourahmad and Majid S. Johari. Production of Core Spun Yarn by the Three-Strand Modified Method, J. Textile Inst., 100 (3), 275-281, (2009).
9.
Ali Akbar Gharahaghaji, Elam Naghash Zargar and Abdolkarim Hossaini. Cluster-Spun Yarn- A New Concept in Composite Yarn Spinning, Textile Res. J., 80 (1), 19-24, (2010).
10. K. T. Aswani. Optimization Doubling Parameter of Polyester Filament/Cotton Core Spun Yarns. Man-made Textiles in India, 373-377, August (1987). 11. Menghe Milao, Yan-Lai How, and Sau-Yee Ho. Influence of Spinning Parametre on Core Yarn Sheath Slippage and Other Properties. Textile Res. J., 66 (11), 676-684 (1996). 12. Ali Akbar Merati, Fujio Konda, Masaaki Okamura and Etsuo Marul. Filament Pre-Tension in Core Yarn Friction Spinning, Textile Res. J., 68 (4), 254-264 (1998). 13. Elastic yarn technologies Melliand International, 10, 14-16, 2004. 14. Haixia Zhang, Yuan Xue and Shanyuan Wang. Application of Elastane Fibres to Rotor Spinning, Melliand International, 35 (8) 106-110, 2007. 15. Tyagi, G. K., Sharma D. and Salhotra K. R., Process-Structure-Property Reletationship of Polyester-Cotton MVS Yarns: Part- I Influence of Processing Variables on Yarn Structural Parametres, Indian J. Fibre Textile Res, 29, 419-428 (2004). 16. SSM Air covering and Air texurising Machine Manual. 17. G. Saltow, T. Furderer, B. Wulfhorst, T.Gries. New elastic combination yarns containing elastane yarn. Melliand International, 8. March 2002. rrr
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Dyeing
Dyeing of Natural Fibres with a Red Pigment Produced by Streptomyces coelicolor Madhura Nerurkara, Jyoti Vaidyanathanb, R. V. Adivarekara*, Zarine Bhathenab Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology b Department of Microbiology, Bhavans College
a
Abstract In the present study, a novel actinomycetes culture identified as Streptomyces coelicolor capable of producing a red pigment that changed to blue as the culture aged, has been studied and described. Studies regarding the growth conditions of bacteria, partial characterization of the produced pigment and use of this red pigment to dye natural fabrics have been carried out. Dyeing of natural fibres with this red pigment as natural dye indicated that the microbial red pigment showed dyeability towards silk and wool fabrics. The fabrics were dyed light reddish brown by the microbial pigment. No dyeing was observed in case of cotton. The colour strength values and the dye uptake were good with satisfactory fastness properties of the dyed silk and wool fabrics. Keywords Natural dye, Actinomycetes, Anthocyanin, Dyeing, Natural Fabrics.
The present paper mainly describes the use of a red * All correspondence should be addressed to, R. V. Adivarekar Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathlal Parekh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai-400019, India E-mail: rv.adivarekar@ictmumbai.edu.in March - April 2012
pigment, produced by the Streptomyces coelicolor, as a natural dye for dyeing of natural fabrics to determine the dyeing strength of the pigment. Evaluation of the colour strength and fastness properties have also been carried out and discussed. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1. Materials Silk and wool fabrics were purchased from local markets, Fort, Mumbai whereas cotton fabrics were supplied by Premier Mills, Mumbai. Methanolic extract of the red pigment from Streptomyces coelicolor have been used as the natural dye. 2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Strain Isolation and Identification A actinomycetes culture capable of producing red pigment in acidic conditions and blue pigment in alkaline conditions was isolated from garden soil sample collected from Bhavans College, Mumbai. The culture was maintained on Kenknight's agar medium slants and incubated at room temperature [RT] for 48 hours. The isolate was subsequently subjected to 16s rRNA identification at NCCS, Pune. 2.2.2. Production and Extraction of the Pigment For the production of red pigment, the actinomycetes culture was grown in mineral rich nutrient medium 377
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1. Introduction Synthetic dyes have been extensively used in the textile industries due to their ease and cost-effectiveness in synthesis, high stability towards light, temperature and technically advanced colours covering the whole colour spectrum [1]. However, due to the stringent environmental standards imposed by many countries in response to the toxic and allergic reactions associated with synthetic dyes, the use of natural dyes has increased across the globe. The production and evaluation of microbial pigments as textile colorants is currently being investigated [2]. Microorganisms have recently received much attention as a natural source of colourants since they are known to produce red, orange, yellow and violet pigments. The bacteria Serratia sakuensis produces red prodiogiosin pigments, Jantinobacterium lividum and Chromobacterium species are known for production of violet pigments, Ashbya produces yellow riboflavin and Fusarium oxysporum produces anthraquinones [2-6].
Dyeing containing soluble starch, ammonium sulphate, calcium carbonate, ferrous sulphate, magnesium sulphate, sodium chloride, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and Agar. The pH of the medium was maintained at 6. This media was poured into large petri plates. 0.2 ml of the culture suspension was spread on these plates and were incubated at room temperature [RT] for 72 hrs. After incubation, the cells were harvested using scalpel, washed in minimum volume of distilled water and suspended in methanol. The coloured supernatant was removed by centrifugation at 3000 rpm for 20 mins. This solvent extract was further used for characterization and dyeing studies. 2.2.3. Partial Characterization of the Pigment 2.2.3.1. pH Stability The stability of the pigment at different pH values was studied by suspending 0.5 ml of 10 mg/ml pigment in acetone in 2.5 ml of various buffers such as 0.2 M HCl-KCl buffer (pH 4), 0.2 M phosphate buffer (pH 7), and 0.2 M glycine-NaOH buffer (pH 9.2). After incubation for 1 h at room temperature, the variation in colour intensity was assessed through changes in the UV-visible spectrum. pH stability was studied for 1 h as it is the time required for dyeing procedures.
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2.2.3.2. Temperature Stability 0.02 g of the pigment was dissolved in 20 ml of acetone and 3ml aliquots of this solution were dispensed in five tubes and incubated for 1 h at 0°C, 25°C, 37°C, 50°C, and 100°C. 2.2.3.3. Classification of the Pigment Natural pigments are categorized into various classes like carotenoids, anthocyanins, melanins, tripyrroles, phenazines and riboflavins based on its aqueous and organic solvents solubility, absorption maxima and reaction with concentrated sulphuric acid, 10% NaOH, 10% Ferric chloride & Na2S2O3. Thus, classification studies were carried out in order to check the class of the red pigment. For this, the pigment was dissolved in various polar and non polar solvents including water, ethanol (95%), methanol, acetone, chloroform and benzene and solubility was recorded. The dry pigment (0.1mg) was reacted with concentrated sulphuric acid to detect the presence of carotenoids whereas to detect the presence of anthocyanins the pigments were reacted with 10% NaOH solution and Na2S2O3 [3]. 2.2.4. Application of the Red Pigment as a Natural Red Dye in Dyeing of Natural Fibres 378
Dye baths were prepared by diluting methanolic extract of red pigment with water [1:2]. Dyeing of silk, wool and cotton was carried out by keeping the MLR ratio as 1:30. For cotton, Glauber's salt was added to the dyebath. Dyeing experiments were conducted in Rotadyer [supplied by Rossari Labtech] at 80°C for about 60 mins. After 60 mins, the rotadyer was brought to room temperature and the fabric sample was removed and given cold wash followed by soaping by using 1.5g/L non-ionic detergent (Auxipon NP) at 80oC for 20 min. followed by cold wash. Then it was air dried and taken for the further study of colour value and fastness properties, like wash fastness, light fastness and rubbing fastness. 2.2.5. Assessment of Colour Strength properties Dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of the colour by determining K/S and reflectance values using a Spectra flash ® SF 300, Computer Colour Matching System (Datacolour International, U.S.A). KubelkaMunk K/S function is given by:
K S
2
=
(1 - R) 2R
where, "R" is the reflectance at complete opacity, "K" is absorption coefficient and "S" is the Scattering coefficient. 2.2.6. Fastness Testing The dyed samples were tested for their fastness properties according to the ISO standard and AATCC methods. The specific tests were as follows: Colour fastness to washing, ISO 105-CO2 (1989); Colour fastness to light, AATCC 117 using Q-Sun's Xenon Arc light fastness tester; Colour fastness to Rubbing, ISO 105-X12 (1987) using Crockmeter. 2.2.7. Classification based on Identification of the Red Dye Fibre The standard protocol for identification of dye on fibre was followed in order to check that to which application class of dyes the natural red dye belongs. The dyed fabric was subjected to series of various treatments with chemicals like sulphuric acid, ammonia solution, acetic acid etc. and stripping of the dye from the fabric and its staining on other fibres was observed. 2.2.8. Ionic nature of microbial dye solution To understand the ionic nature of the microbial dye Bromophenol Blue Test was carried out. In this method, March - April 2012
Dyeing 1-2 drops of the dye solution was added to mixture of 5 ml chloroform, 5 ml of 0.1% solution of bromophenol blue in dilute ethanol solution and 1 ml of 6N hydrochloric acid. Then it was well shaken and the colour of chloroform layer was observed.
3.3.2. Classification of the Red Pigment Characterisation of the red pigment revealed that it belong to the class of Anthocyanin based on its reaction with NaOH to give green colour and ability to get decolourized in presence of sodium thiosulphate.
3. Results and Discussions 3.1. Strain Isolation and Identification The actinomycete isolated from garden soil sample was subsequently identified as Streptomyces coelicolor by 16s rRNA at NCCS, Pune.
3.4. Dyeing Performance The microbial red pigment showed dyeability towards silk, and wool fabrics. No dyeing was observed in case of cotton. Thus, it can be stated that the dye did not have affinity for cotton fabric. The dyeings obtained were uniform. The fabrics were dyed dull reddish brown by the microbial pigment. The colour strength properties in terms of K/S and L*, a*, b* and fastness properties of the dyed samples are given in Table 3.1. The highest dye uptake was found in wool followed by silk. The light fastness properties for the dyed samples was found to be poor with moderate wash and excellent rubbing fastness properties.
3.3. Partial Characterization of the Red Pigment 3.3.1. pH and Temperature Stability The red pigment was not very stable across different pH values. It showed a unique colour shift at acidic and alkaline pH range. The pigment was red under acidic conditions changed to blue in alkaline conditions (Fig. 1). Besides, the UV - Vis spectra of the red pigment showed the characteristic peak within the visible absorbance peak at 570nm for the blue colour. The red pigment was found to be temperature resistant (Fig. 2) and thus can find application in high temperature treatments used in textile dyeing procedures.
Figure 3.1: pH stability of Red pigment
Figure 3.2: Temperature Stability of red pigment March - April 2012
Table 3.1: Colour Strength and Fastness Properties of Fabrics dyed with Red [AB1] Pigment Fabrics % K/S Dyed Exhaustion
L*
a*
b*
Fastness Properties Light Wash Rubbing Dry We t
Silk
64.10 0.7847 73.413 8.185 13.312 12-3 4-5
4-5
Wool
82.63 1.5284 72.676 10.73 16.415 1 2
4-5
4-5
3.5. Classification based on Identification of the Red Dye Fibre and Ionic Nature of Microbial Dye Solution As per the standard protocol for Identification of dye on fibre, stripping of the natural red dye from the fabric was observed when the dyed fabric was treated with 5% acetic acid indicating that the natural red dye from Streptomyces coelicolor behaves as basic dye [7]. The dyeing of mordanted cotton with the stripped dye solution showed dyeing confirming basic dye as user classification of the microbial red pigment. Cationic nature of the pigment was further confirmed by Bromophenol Blue Test wherein the presence of the yellow colour to the chloroform layer indicated that there is cationic charge present on the microbial red pigment confirming its user classification as basic dye [8]. 4. Conclusion A strain of Streptomyces coelicolor isolated from garden soil sample is capable of producing considerable quantity of red pigment that can be used as a natural 379
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3.2. Production and Extraction of the Red pigment Our experiments showed that cultures of Streptomyces coelicolor grew well on mineral rich agar medium, and began elaborating red pigment which remained intracellular after 48hrs of incubation at room temperature. The pigment remained stable when extracted using acidified methanol.
Dyeing basic dye for dyeing of silk and wool fabrics giving a good reddish brown tone. In addition to dyeability, various features of microbial dyes like their natural character, biodegradability, production being independent of seasons and large scale production using industrially controlled fermentation technologies make it a potential candidate as an alternative to the various available chemically synthesized dyes. However, the fastness properties being moderate, the future studies on either pretreatment of the fabrics using mordants or chemical modification of the microbial pigments to improve the fastness properties need to be undertaken. Acknowledgements The authors wish to express a deep sense of gratitude to Department of Biotechnology, Ministry of Science Government of India for their financial support extended for this project. References 1. Ravindra V. Adivarekar, Madhura Nerurkar, Zarine Bhathena, Jyoti Vaidyanathan (July 2011) Analysis of Dyeing properties of a Bluish Violet Pigment extracted from Chromobacterium spp., International Dyer, World Textile Publications, pp38-42. 2. F.A, Nagia and R.S.R EL Mohamedy (2007) Dyeing of wool with natural Anthraquinone dyes from Fusarium oxysporum; Dyes and Pigments 75; pp550-555.
3. J. Vaidyanathan, Z. Bhathena-Langdana, R. V. Adivarekar, M. Nerurkar (2012) Production, Partial Characterization, and Use of a Red Biochrome Produced by Serratia sakuensis subsp. Nov Strain KRED for Dyeing Natural Fibers, Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 166 (2), pp321335. 4. Diana D. Santis, Mauro Moresi, Anna Maria Gallo and Maurizio Petruccioli (2005). Assessment of dyeing properties of pigments from Monascus purpureus; Journal of Chemical Technology and Biotechnology, 80, pp1072-1079. 5. Farzaneh Alihosseini, Kou San Ju, Bruce D. Hammock and Gang Sun (2008). Antibacterial Colourants: Characterization of prodiginines and their application on Textile Materials, Biotechnology Prog. , 24, pp742-747. 6. Akira Shirata, Takanori Sukamoto, Hiroe Yasue, Tamako Hata, Shoji Hayasaka, Atushi Kojima and Hiroshi Kato(2000) Isolation of Bacteria producing Bluish purple Pigment and use for dyeing, JARQ, 34, pp131-140. 7. Weaver W. J., (1984) Analytical Methods for a Textile Laboratory, Published by American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, pp129149. 8. R. V. Adivarekar, D. Jhangale, N. Khurana, C. R. Meena (Jan-Feb 2011) Functional dyes imparting softness, International dyer, pp 26-30. r r r
INVITATION FOR TECHNICAL & RESEARCH ARTICLES
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Journal of the TEXTILE Association
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Editor THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Central Office Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4974 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 380
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PRINTING
Recent Developments in Inkjet Printing Technique in Modern Era Kunal Singha* Department of Textile Technology, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology Abstract Ink jet printing is becoming a fascinating field with cutting-edge technology in the textile processing industrial application. The different newly developed ink jet printing techniques like; Continuous MultiLevel Deflected Technology, Continuous Binary Systems, Thermal Ink Jet Technology or 'Drop on Demand' System, Piezo Drop on Demand Technology, Continuous stream printing, multideflected printing, UV curable printing techniques etc. has open wingless opportunities in front of the dyers and colorist throughout the globe. The recent development of complex printer with water soluble or solvent soluble developed ink provides ample scope to improve the light fastness, waterfastness and to predict exact and fair printing design on the silk, wool, polyester, vinyl or nylon fabric. This paper reviews about the golden journey of ink jet printing towards its supreme excellency. Keywords Ink jet printing, Piezo Drop on Demand Technology, Continuous stream printing, multideflected printing, UV curable printing techniques.
* All correspondence should be addressed to, Kunal Singha Department of Textile Technology, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Harayana E-mail : kunalsingha28@gmail.com March - April 2012
Figure 1.1: Textile printing by Conventional Manual Method [1]
Ink jet printing is a technology where droplets of liquid are ejected to impart a substrate at a precise location. It is composed of an ink supply, print head, a drive mechanism; a continuous cloth feed arrangement, & a CAD system for design and color mixing. In Inkjet printing widely four "Process colors" are used (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black) from which required color effects are produced. 381
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1. Introduction The digital printing was introduced in 1950 for paper printing and onwards 1970 the digital printing technique was used for textiles. 28 billion square yards of material are printed worldwide each year [1]. Ink-jet printing is a non-contact method of substrate decoration. Ink-jet printing produces images, colors and patterns using computer driven inkjet nozzles or charged drums. Image transfer by ink-jet printing is a rapidly expanding technology due to advances in super fast computer printers and the advent of digital cameras [2]. Ink-jet printers typically use three water based primary color inks along with a black pigment-based ink. Various colors and shades of colors are produced by striking the same targeted area several times with droplets of different primary color inks. The surface receives several hundreds of droplets per centimeter in a fraction of a second. Thus, a rapid removal of ink solvents becomes necessary for fast production of photographic quality images. This is done by coatings, for example by a porous film applied on the surface [3-4].
PRINTING 3. Principle of the inkjet printing There are several steps consisting of the principle the inkjet printing as follows;
• • • •
Voltage is applied to piezoelectric element Piezo contracts Voltage released Ink fired
Figure 1.2: Possible Future Scenario for Sample to Bulk Production [1]
2. Various printing techniques Textile projects in jet printing have been considerable over the last 25 years, some of which are listed below [4-6]. 2.1 Continuous Multi-Level Deflected Technology • C.S.I.R.O (Australia) • TOXOT (Image) • Zimmer (Jemtex Print heads) 2.2 Continuous Binary Systems Burlington Project Amethyst (STORK)
•
2.3 Thermal Ink Jet Technology ("Drop on Demand" System) [8, 9, 13] • Canon "Wonderprint" Systems • Encad (USA) • Shima Seiki (Japan) • ColorSpan (USA)
•
• •
2.4 Piezo Drop on Demand Technology [8] Seiren "ViscoTex " System Mimaki SJ1300/JV Series TX 1600/TX2 Series Konica Nassenger KS System DPS 65 (Magic Print Heads from Aprion) Dupont (Vutek) Spectra Print Heads Leggett and Platt (Spectra Print Heads)
• • • • • • Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 3.1: The schematic scheme showing the priniciple of inkjet printing
•
Directing minute droplet of ink from a nozzle onto the printing substrate. Computer controlled droplet position on the substrate by their response to high frequency digital electronic signals. Droplet formation involves the application of controlled pressure on the liquid ink in its reservoir; so that ink stream is broken into droplets [11-14, 25].
4. Classification of ink jet printing systems [5]
5. Basic types of inkjet printing 5.1. Coarse resolution type [9] Figure 2.1: Different sector-wise break up of inkjet printing marketplace [1] 382
• •
Mainly used for carpet printing Resolution = 40 DPI
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PRINTING 5.2. Fine resolution type [15]
• • • • •
Used mainly for textiles Resolution = up to 300 DPI. Nozzle dia. = 10 - 1000 μm. High rate of droplet ejection. Types: Continuous stream and drop-on-demand.
5.3. Continuous stream printing It contains mainly of a system to produce continuous stream of ink drops, a system for selecting drops that will form image on substrate and system to collect the unwanted drops for recycling. In this type, the ink used must be electrically sensitive [17]. The continuous stream printing process can be divided into different sub types:
• • •
Faster scan method. Binary deflected continuous ink jet system. Multideflected continuous ink jet system [16].
tains variable amount charges; so they show different amount of deflection and that helps in inkjet printing over the whole fabric surface. The multiple positions on the substrate (upto 30) to be printed from a single jet and the charged droplets are deflected on to substrate and uncharged ones collected for recycling after the process [20, 21]. 5.6. Drop - on - demand (DOD) Majority of printers today are based on this technique. • Produces an ink droplet only when required & fires on substrate. • Eliminates complexity of drop charging and deflection hardware. • Electrical signals are used for movement of droplets. • Either uses Thermal or Piezoelectric principle [19, 24].
•
5.7. Bubble jet / Thermal jet 5.4. Binary deflected system
Figure 5.1: Machine used for binary deflected system [18]
There are certain features in this type of printing as per the below; • Uncharged droplets will be unaffected by the deflection plates. • Undeflected drops then strike the substrate to form the image. • Drops carrying a charge are deflected to a gutter by the deflection plates for recycle [18].
Figure 5.3: Machine used for thermal jet system [19]
• • • •
Majority of the DOD printers currently in use, are of this type A thermal pulse to generate the ink drop Cycle time = 10,000 drops per second Volume per drop of ink = 150-200 Pico liters [19,22]
Fig 5.2: Machine used for multideflected system [20]
In this process, the dye drops with different sizes reMarch - April 2012
Figure 5.4: Simulational modeling placement of heater and ink pot in a thermal jet system for higher operability [22] 383
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5.5. Multideflected system
PRINTING •
• •
Computer signal heats a resister to a high temperature. Creates a vapour bubble in a volatile component in the printing ink. Vapour bubble causes a drop of ink to be ejected from the nozzle. The vapour bubble then cool and collapse allowing the ink chamber to refill from a reservoir.
5.8. Piezo electric type
Fig 5.5: Machine used for piezo electric printing system [21]
• • • •
A piezoelectric transducer used for ejecting ink droplets. Cycles time = 14,000 drops per second. Suited for both aqueous and solvent based inks. Volume per drop of ink = very few Pico liters.
ing and bleaching, low voltage plasma treatment for better surface adhesion [19] (type of fabric pre-treatment vary with dyes used in the inks), two bath finishing with lower amount of chitosan [17] for a higher color value (K/S value). Sometime to pre-treatment is done on the fabric with some organic polymer like hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), poly(ethyleneoxide) (PEO) in a host matrix of AlO(OH) or SiO2 or with polyethylenimes [11] to provide the more transient local swelling of the printed matrix up to 600-700% which will make the immobilization of the dye molecule for better ink drop absorption over the textile surface at a quicker time than the conventional porous absorbing film [10]. Post processing: Similar as used in conventional printing for fixation like Baking/Steaming/Washing, nanofinishing with SiO2 nanoparticle [24], algorithm image processing analysis techniques with the help of linear programming data captured from the different picture taken over the various parts of the printed paper sample etc (depends upon the type of dyes in the inks) [21, 23]. 7. Inkjet printing inks There are mainly two types of inkjet printing available in the market currently as: solvent based and water based. The compositions are given below in detail in Table.7.1. Solvent based inks
Fig 5.6: Simulational modeling placement of peizo-actuator and ink pot in a thermal jet system for higher operability [22]
Ink chemistry
Fibers
Post processing
Dye
Polyesters (not often used in ink jet printers, only currently used in some special ink jet printers)
None
Pigment
Vinyl, Polyesters, Nylon
None
Water based inks
•
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• • •
Computer imposes an electrical potential across a piezoelectric material. This causes a contraction and an expansion due to varying electric field. On removal of the potential, the piezoelectric returns to its normal dimensions. Ink chamber is filled from an ink reservoir by capillary action.
6. Pre-treatment & post processing Pre- treatment: Same as carried out for the fabric used for conventional printing viz. singeing, desizing, scour384
Ink chemistry
Fibers
Post processing
Acid dyes
Silk, nylon, Wool
Steam/wash, can be dry cleaned
Dispersed dyes
Polyester
Thermo- fixation
Reactive dyes
Natural fibers: Cotton, Steam / wash, can Rayon, Wool, Silk be dry cleaned
Pigment without All fibers binder
Dry heat
Pigment with binder
Dry heat
Cotton and possibly Polyester
March - April 2012
PRINTING Table 7.1: Components formulation of two major types of ink: solvent based inks and water based ink [3] The two main textile fibers are cellulose (cotton) and polyester. Inkjet dyes for cotton are existing textilereactive dyes but purified to inkjet standards. Both chlorotriazines and vinyl sulphones are used (see Figure 7.1). Smaller particle size disperse dyes are used for inkjet printing polyester. Post-treatment and usually pre-treatment of the fibers are required for good printing. Pigments are also used for inkjet printing on textile materials [3-4].
8.1 UV curable inkjet printers • UV light is used in this machine for the polymerization of ink & it fixes firmly on to fabric • Ink does not contain Volatile organic compounds • Environment-friendly ink 8.1.1 Mechanism
Figure 8.2: Schematic diagram of the mechanism involved in UV curable inkjet printer [25]
8.1.2 Process development [27]
Figure 7.1: Chlorotriazine and vinyl sulphone reactive dyes for inkjet printing on cotton [12]
Figure 8.1: General diagram of inkjet printing machine [1-3] March - April 2012
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8. Inkjet printing machines
PRINTING 9. Development in ink The developed ink is now used for better inkjet printing for higher productivity, clarity in printing at a shorter time. One of the examples of the improved ink is Helizarin inks with the following features [11-13];
• • • • •
First pigment ink to produce wash-resistant and rub-fast textiles. No requirement of drying stage. No requirement binder application. Helizarin® EVO P 100 by BASF and BASF gives range of 10 colors. Suitable for cotton & its blends.
Higher light fastness colouring agents may be achieved by:
• • •
Inherently higher lightfastness chromophores. Additives/treatment. Maiched media.
Although cationic modification does enhance inkjet printing with acid dyes on cotton, dye uptake is only slightly higher than the post-cure treatment of cotton with only crosslinkers. A major disadvantage is color staining on white areas of the printed goods after laundering, especially after boiling soaping [26].
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 9.1: Chrona/Light fastness relationship for classes of magenta inkjet dyes [12]
Figure 9.1 shows the relationship belween chroma and lightfastness for magenta dyes, which are the poorest inkier dyes in terms of lightfastness. Silver halide prints have good lightfastness although the azamethine dyes themselves have only moderate lightfastness. Ilford modified the high lightfastness silver halide azo magenta dye used in the Dye Process (5 times better lightfastness than azamethine dyes) to provide an inkier magenta dye [24]. However, an inkier dye, [24] has only moderate lightfastness. This is an excellent example of the effect of the media on the lighfastness of a dye. Indeed, Wilhelm ~2 has shown that the lightfastness of an inkjet dye can vary by over 100 times depending upon which media it is printed. Addi386
tives such as singlet oxygen quenchers, radical scavengors and UV absorbers may be added to either the ink or substrate (or both) in an attempt to enhance the lightfastness, waterfastness. This is a big problem in case of inkjet printing which can be overcome by the following approaches [13]; In the first approach, waterfastness is achieved by using a more complex (and probably more expensive) colorant/ ink with a simple (and lower cost) printer. In the second approach, an extra pen is required to fire a colorless chemical (fixing agent) immediately prior to firing the ink. As soon as the ink hits the fixing agent, it is insolubilised and irnmobilised. However, addition of an extra pen to the print head results in a more complex (and probably more expensive) printer. Both systems are described morefully below [28]. 9.1. Complex ink used with combination of simple printer As mentioned previously, carboxy dyes, using the principle of differential solubility, are already on the marketplace. However, to achieve instant 100% waterffastness a different approach had to be used. One approach, which is proving encouraging is to use a combination of zwitter ions formation and stereochemistry as in the Fig 9.2. The dyes contain piperazinogroups, which may be bonded to the sulphonamide group directly or by a spacer group, and sulfonic acid groups. In the alkaline inks the dyes are soluble owing to the sulfonate and free amino groups, on the paper the dye is waterfast because of zwitter ion formation between the protonated amine groups and the sulfonate groups, which leads to insolubility and strong H-bonding between the dye and cellulose because of the stereochemical fit allowing close interactions [14].
Figure 9.2: The 100% waterfastness using Zwitterions and Stereochemistry [14] March - April 2012
9.2. Complex printer used with simple ink combination Another approach is to use a 5th pen containing a fixing agent, such as divalent metal ions or cationic amines, to fix the anionic dye on to the paper: Canon uses this technology in their P-POP (Plain Paper Printing optimized Printing) System. 10. Advantages of inkjet printing • Non contact type of printing. • Ecofriendly process (Waste minimization). • Not time consuming (as no screen preparation, paste making etc.). • Can print photographic designs with unlimited colors (as four basic colours produces any type of colour). • Suitable for printing of no repeat size (t-shirt printing) [1-5]. 11. Disadvantages of inkjet printing • Very high cost (compared to conventional printing machine). • Very low speed (compared to Rotary printing machine). • Non flexible to use inks of other companies. • Proper care of jet or proper machine handling should be taken. 12. Conclusion Digital printing has opened new windows of opportunity for textile printing industry to grow and flourish in the future. This revolutionary printing technology gives high quality textile prints with unlimited color variation and no repeat restrictions [27-28]. In few years inkjet will be an established production printing technology within the printing industry [1-3]. References 1. C.W. Kan, C.W.M. Yuen, WY. Tsoi; Cellulose, 18, 827-839 (2011). 2. P. Burrows, G. Smith, S.V. Brull; Business Week, 7, 100-110 (1997). 3. K. Misuda, S. Suzuki, T. Hasegawa, H. Kijimuta; U.S. Patent No. 5, 264-275 (Nov. 1993). 4. Y. Kurabayashi, M. Sakaki, H. Sato; U.S. Patent No. 5, 470 (Jan. 1992). 5. T.L. Dawson; Jet Printing, Rev. Progress in Coloration, 22, 22 (1992). 6. L. Graham, Textile Chemist & Colorist, 21(6), 27 (1989). March - April 2012
7. Anon; Japan Textile News, 90 (1993). 8. S.O. Aston, J.R. Provost, H. Masselink; JSDC, 109, 147 (1993). 9. C.T. Kosolia, E. Maria, V. Eforia, G. Tsatsaroni; J. Surfact Deterg., 14, 3-7 (2011). 10. C. Wang, C. Wang; Plasma, Fibers and Polymers, 11(2), 223-228 (2010). 11. P. Gregory; International Part B: Coating transactions, 85(B1), 1-78 (1978). 12. S.Q. Jiang, S.K.A. Ku, P.S.R. Choi, K.Y. Wong; Fibers and Polymers, 11(2), 229-233 (2010). 13. C.W.M. Yuen, S.K.A. Ku, C.W. Kan, P.S.R. Choi; Fibers and Polymers, 8(6), 625-628 (2007). 14. C.W.M. Yuen, S.K.A. Ku, P.S. Choi, C.W. Kan; Fibers and Polymers, 5(2), 117-121 (2004). 15. B.E. Yoldas; Journal of Sol-Gel Science and Technology, 23, 87-90 (2002). 16. B.E. Yoldas; Journal of Sol-Gel Science and Technology, 13, 147-152 (1998). 17. P.S.R. Choi, C.W.M. Yuen, S.K.A. Ku, C.W. Kan; Fibers and Polymers, 6(3), 229-234 (2005). 18. C. Wang, C. Wang; Fibers and Polymers, 11(2), 223-228 (2010). 19. C.W.M. Yuen, C.W. Kan; Fibers and Polymers, 8(2), 168-173 (2007). 20. C.W.M. Yuen, SKA. Ku, CW. Kan, PS. Choi; Fibers and Polymers, 8(6), 625-628 (2007). 21. H. Park, W.W. Carr, H. Ok, S. Park; Textile Research Journal, 76(9), 720-728 (2006). 22. Y. Tang, K. Fang, S. Fu, L. Zhang; Textile Research Journal, 81(14), 1510-1520 (2011). 23. X.H. Yang, J.H. Sui, B. Meng, X.W. Zhang; Textile Research Journal, 80(18), 1942-1948 (2010). 24. S. Gowri, L. Almeida, T. Amorim, N. Carneiro, A.P. Souto, M.F. Esteves; Textile Research Journal, 80(13), 1290-1306 (2010). 25. C.W.M. Yuen, S.K.A. Ku, P.S.R. Choi, C.W. Kan; Textile Research Journal, 75(4), 319-325 (2005). 26. Y. Yang, S. Li; Textile Research Journal, 73(9), 809-814 (2003). 27. H. park, W. Carr, H. Ok, S. Park; Textile Research Journal, 76(9), 720-728 (2006). 28. C.W.M. Yuen, S.K.A. Ku, P.S.R. Choi, C.W. Kan; Textile Research Journal, 75(4), 319-325 (2005). rrr
Texttreasure It is literally true that you can succeed best and quickest by helping others to succeed. -Napoleon Hill 387
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
PRINTING
FINISHING
Study on the Effect of Antibacterial Finish on Silk and Lyocell/Silk Union Fabric Mariyam Adnan* Department of Fashion Technology & J Jeyakodi Moses Department of Chemistry, PSG College of Technology Abstract Lyocell is an emerging regenerated cellulosic textile material. Silk is a traditional protein textile material. Both lyocell and silk are easily attacked by microbes, hence antimicrobial finishing is considered important. In this study, a fabric with silk (warp) and lyocell and silk (weft) was developed and treated for antimicrobial finish using triclosan by pad-dry-cure method. The antimicrobial activity of the samples is assessed. All the samples treated with triclosan showed a higher zone of inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus when compared to Escherichia coli, however, 80/20 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric showed maximum zone of inhibition against both the bacteria. Keywords Antibacterial, Triclosan, Silk, Lyocell.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1. Introduction Recent market survey shows that the apparel consumers all over the world are demanding functionality in the product. Some of the best examples of functionality are product attributes such as wrinkle resistance, soil release, water repellency, flame retardancy, fade resistance and resistance to microbial invasion. Among these, the antimicrobial property of fabric is considered important and inevitable parameter for garments which are in direct contact with human body [1, 2, 3]. The major classes of antimicrobials for textiles include organo-metallics, phenols, quaternary ammonium salts and organo-silicones. The bis-phenols are the class of compounds that exhibit a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity. The two most widely used members of this group are triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'hydroxydiphenyl ether) and hexachlorophene. Triclosan, a chlorinated bisphenol, is a synthetic, non-ionic, broadspectrum antimicrobial agent, possessing mostly antibacterial along with some antifungal and antiviral prop-
erties. Over the last 30 years, triclosan has become the most potent and widely used bis-phenol. Triclosan is used in many consumer and professional healthcare products including soaps, lotions and creams, toothpastes, mouthwashes, underarm deodorants, and also incorporated into fabrics and plastics [1, 4, 5, 6]. Triclosan exhibits pharmacological effects towards prokaryotic and eukaryotic cells. Especially it has demonstrated broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against prokaryotes, even at a very low concentration. Triclosan acts mainly by inhibiting fatty acid biosynthesis through blocking lipid biosynthesis, (phospholipid, lipopolysaccharide and lipoprotein synthesis) by specifically inhibiting the enzyme enoylaeyl carrier protein reductase (ENR). In eukaryotes, the primary effects from triclosan are on the membranes. Triclosan acts as a site specific inhibitor by mimicking the natural substrate of enoylACP in Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria as well as in the mycobacteria [1, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11]. The present study aims to develop microbe resistant finishing treatment for lyocell and silk union fabric suitable for garments and enhancing the life of the union fabric by protecting it from the action of microorganisms and insects.
* All correspondence should be addressed to: Mariyam Adnan Department of Fashion Technology PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore 641004 E-mail : mariyam.ag@gmail.com 388
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2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Application of triclosan on silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric To acquire antibacterial activity on the silk, lyocell/silk union fabric triclosan (6% owf) was applied to the pretreated [12] material with MLR (1:10) and pH around (6-7). The finishing bath was set at 500 C. The fabric samples were then treated in the solution for half an hour and passed in a padding mangle, dried at 80oC and cured at 130oC for 3 minutes [1]. 2.2.2. Air Permeability of the silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The air permeability test [13] was conducted according to ASTM standard test method (ASTM 2000), using the Shirley air permeability tester in cm3/cm2/sec. 2.2.3. Absorbency of the silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The absorbency [14] of fabrics was determined by the drop absorbency method according to AATCC/ASTM Test Method TS-018. The average results were expressed in seconds. 2.2.4. Wicking behaviour of the silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The strip test [15] was employed to measure the capillary action of fabrics. A sample (20 cm X 2.5 cm) was suspended vertically with its lower end immersed in a reservoir of distilled water for 10 min, and the height attained by the water in the fabric above water level in the reservoir was noted in centimetre. 2.2.5. Antibacterial property of the silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric The bacteriostatic activity on the fabric samples was assessed qualitatively according to the AATCC test method 147-2004 by the parallel streak method [16]. 2.2.6. Wash durability of the silk and lyocell/silk union fabric March - April 2012
The treated silk and lyocell/silk samples were laundered according to AATCC Test Method 124-1992 for antimicrobial testing. The durability of antimicrobial finish to repeated home laundering was evaluated for 25 cycles [17]. 2.2.7. SEM-EDS analysis of the silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The treated silk and lyocell/silk samples were characterized by SEM-EDS [18] (electron dispersive spectroscopy) JXA-840 an Electron Probe MicroanalyzerJOEL. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Air Permeability of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The air permeability of untreated sample, treated sample and treated sample after 25 washes were tested and the data are given in Table 3.1. It is observed that air permeability of all the treated samples (II) was decreased when compared to the untreated sample (I). This may be due to the finishing treatment applied on these fabrics. After 25 washes (III) of the finished fabric the air permeability increased when compared to the treated sample only (II). This is due to the fact that after twenty five washes there could be a partial removal of finished chemicals from the treated fabric that facilitates the increase of air permeability. Table 3.1 : Air Permeability of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric Silk and lyocell/silk blended union fabric
Air Permeability (cm 3 /cm 2/sec) I
II
III
100% lyocell
275.16
230.24
250.56
80/20 silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric
249.1
207.58
239.25
60/40 silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric
134.55
113.28
125.5
50/50 silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric
124.55
103.75
115.49
100% silk
73.64
57.6
60.4
I. Untreated Sample II. Finished Sample III. Washed (25) sample 389
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 100% lyocell of 30s count and 100% silk of 70s denier with 2 ply filament were used. Silk was used in the warp, where as lyocell and silk blends in varying proportions of 80/20, 60/40 and 50/50 were used in weft. NMV2 triclosan (Resil Chemicals, Bangalore, India) was used for antimicrobial finish. Other chemicals used elsewhere for this study were of AR grade.
FINISHING 3.2. Absorbency of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The absorbency of untreated sample, treated sample and treated sample after 25 washes were tested and the values are shown in Table 3.2. It is seen that there was more time taken for the absorbency of all the treated samples (II & III) compared to the untreated sample (I). This is because of the finishing treatment on these fabrics that slightly reduces the hydrophilic character of the fibres leading to reduced absorbency. However, the absorbency of the treated fabrics was increased after twenty five washes (III) when compared to the treated sample only (II). This increase of absorbency in the washed fabric is due to the partial removal of finished chemicals from the surface of the treated fabric. Table 3.2 : Absorbency of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric Silk and lyocell/silk blended union fabric
Drop Absorbency (sec) I
II
III
100% lyocell
3
7
5
80/20 silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric
47
56
50
60/40 silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric
55
66
60
50/50 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric
60
75
68
100% silk
80
89
84
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
I. Untreated Sample II. Finished Sample III. Washed, (25) sample 3.3. Wicking of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The data of wicking behaviour of untreated sample, treated sample and treated sample after 25 washes are given in Table 3.3. It is clear from this that the wicking behaviour of all the treated samples (II & III) was decreased compared to the untreated fabric (I). The decrease of wicking in the finished fabric is due to the reduction of affinity for water after finishing. After 25 washes (III), the wicking character increases when compared to the treated sample (II). This may be due to the partial removal of finished chemicals from the treated fabric which enhances the increase of wicking through the fibres. 390
Table 3.3 : Wicking of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric Silk and lyocell/silk blended union fabric
Wicking (cm) I
II
III
100% lyocell
15
10.6
12.2
80/20 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric
5.5
2.5
3.7
60/40 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric
3.9
3.4
3.8
50/50 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric
3.5
3.1
3.3
100% silk
2.5
2.2
2.3
I. Untreated Sample II. Finished Sample III. Washed (25) sample 3.4. Antibacterial Property of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric The data of antibacterial property of lyocell, silk and lyocell / silk union fabrics treated with triclosan using the pad-dry-cure method are given in Table 3.4. The antimicrobial activity of these samples was assessed by qualitative test method. All the samples treated with triclosan showed a higher zone of inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus when compared to Escherichia coli. Out of all the samples, 80/20 lyocell/silk samples showed maximum zone of inhibition against both the bacteria after treatment with triclosan and also after 25 washes. Table 3.4 : Antibacterial Property of silk and lyocell/silk union fabric Silk and lyocell /silk blended union fabric
Zone of Inhibition mm Finished
washed (25)
S. Aureus E. Coli S. Aureus E. Coli 100% lyocell 80/20 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric 60/40 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric 50/50 silk and lyocell/silk union fabric 100% silk
34 39
33 35
32 36
25 28
36
31
32
26
34
30
31
27
30
25
28
23
March - April 2012
FINISHING 3.5. SEM and EDS analysis of the silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric The details of SEM and EDS analysis of representative samples (untreated sample and treated sample) are given in Figures 3.1 and 3.2. From Figure 3.1a, it is seen that the presence of triclosan appears homogeneously on the fabric surface. Subsequently, a suitable way to gain information on triclosan present on the fabric comes from SEM - EDS analysis. An elemental analysis of the particles was implemented by a SEM equipped with an energy disperse X-ray spectrum (EDS), which provides a rapid qualitative and quantitative analysis of the elemental composition. Figure 3.2a depicts that EDS quantitative analysis for lyocell/silk union fabric treated with triclosan confirmed that they contain the presence of about 60.18% C, 38.37% O, 1.02% Cl, and 0.43% Rb.
Figure 3.1 : SEM for 80/20 control sample
Element Net Counts Weight (%) Atom (%) C
37180
60.39
67.05
O
25563
39.49
32.91
Ca
328
0.12
0.04
Ca
0
--
--
100.00
100.00
Total
Figure 3.2a : EDS for 80/20 treated sample
Live Time: 100.0 sec. (Acc.Voltage: 15.0 kV Take Off Angle: 34.6 deg.)
Figure 3.1a : SEM for 80/20 treated sample
C
18603
60.18
67.32
O
13999
38.37
32.22
Cl
2110
1.02
0.39
Cl
5154
--
--
Rb
896
0.43
0.07
Rb
0
--
--
100.00
100.00
Total
Figure 3.2 : EDS for 80/20 control sample
Live Time: 100.0 sec. (Acc.Voltage: 15.0 kV Take Off Angle: 34.6 deg.) March - April 2012
4. Conclusion Triclosan was applied successfully on the silk and lyocell/ silk union fabric. The treatment gave the influence on the properties of the fabric. The air permeability, absorbency and wicking of the triclosan treated fabric were reduced to some extent. The antimicrobial character of the fabric was improved considerably by the triclosan treatment. The antimicrobial finishes on the fabric are durable to washing as they withstand 25 laundering cycles. 391
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Element Net Counts Weight (%) Atom (%)
FINISHING Acknowledgements The authors kindly express their gratitude to Dr. R. Rudramoorthy, Principal, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore; Dr. G. Thilagavathi, Head, Department of Textile & Fashion Technology; and Dr. M. Kumaravel, Department of Chemistry, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore for granting permission and support in publishing this research article. References 1. Mehmet Orhan, Dilek Kut & Cem Gunesoglu. 'Use of triclosan as antibacterial agent in textiles.' Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 32, March 2007, pp. 114-118. 2. Menezes, E, Antimicrobial Finishing for Speciality Textiles, International Dyer, 187 (12), pp. 13 - 16, 2002. 3. Purwar, R., and Joshi, M., Recent Development in Antimicrobial Finishing of Textiles - A Review, AATCC Review, 4 (3), 22 - 25, 2004. 4. Kaylon, B.D., and Olgun, U., Antibacterial Efficacy of Triclosan - incorporated Polymers, Am. J. Infect. Contr., 29, 124 - 125, 2001. 5. Yazdankhah, S.P, et al., Triclosan and Antimicrobial Resistance in Bacteria: An Overview, Microb. Drug Resist. - Mech. Epidemiol. Dis., 12, 83 90, 2006. 6. Isquith, A.J., Abbott, E.A., and Walter, P.A., Surface Bonded Antimicrobial Activity of an organosilicon Quaternary ammonium Chloride, Appl. Microbiol., 24, 859 - 863, 1972. 7. Gao, Y., and Cranston, R., Recent Advances in Antimicrobial Treatments of Textile, Text. Res. J., 78, 60 - 72, 2008. 8. Dring, I., Antimicrobial, rotproofing and Hygiene Finishes, Textile Finishing, Heywood, D (ed), Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, 2003, pp. 351 - 371.
9. Payne, J.D., and Kudner, D.W., A durable Antiodor Finish for Cotton Textiles, Textile Chemist and Colorist, 28, 28 - 30, 1996. 10. Majumdar, P., Lee, E., Pater, N., Stafslien, S.J., and Chisholm, B.J., Development of Environmentally Friendly Antifouling Coatings Based on Tethered Qtaternary Ammonium Salts in a Crosslinked Polydimethylsiloxane Matrix, J. Coat. Technol. Res., 5, 405 - 417, 2008. 11. Mao, J.W., and Murphy, L., Durable Finishes for Textiles, AATCC Review, 1, 28 - 31, 2001. 12. Trotman, E. R. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, 5th ed.; Charles Griffin: London, 1975. 13. ASTM, 2008. ASTM Test Method D 737-04 - 2008: Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics. ASTM Standards, West Conshohocken, USA. 14. AATCC, 2010. Absorbency of Textiles: AATCC Test Method 79-2010, Technical Manual of the AATCC, Research Triangle Park, USA. 15. AATCC, 2011. Vertical Wicking of Textiles: AATCC Test Method 197-2011, Technical Manual of the AATCC, Research Triangle Park, USA. 16. AATCC, 2004. Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials-Parallel Streak Method: AATCC Test Method 147-2004, Technical Manual of the AATCC, Research Triangle Park, USA. 17. AATCC, 2010. Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering : AATCC Test Method 124-2010, Technical Manual of the AATCC, Research Triangle Park, USA. 18. Gouda, M., and Hebeish, A., Preparation and Evaluation of CuO/Chitosan Nanocomposite for Antibacterial Finishing Cotton Fabric, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 39 (3), 203 - 213, 2010. rrr
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FINISHING
Investigation on the Multi-Functional Properties of Nano ZnO Treated Light Weight Denim Fabric D. Vijayalakshmi*, R. Rathinamoorthy Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology & T. Ramachandran Karpagam Institute of Technology Abstract In this research work, a novel attempt has been made to impart multi-functional finish on denim fabric by single stage of processing. The denim fabrics were treated with synthesized nano-ZnO particle using direct exhaust and microencapsulation method. The resultant fabrics were analyzed for their change in physical properties before and after finishing. The efficacy of the functional effects like UV resistant property, antibacterial and stain release ability was also analyzed. The result shows that, the treated material remains unaltered in most of the basic physical property except air permeability and stiffness. Further this treatment has also imparted excellent UV protection with the UPF R value of 30 (96-97.4% of Blocking) as per AS/NZS 4399. The antimicrobial activity of treated material shows excellent inhibition zone (26-40mm) against both gram positive and gram negative bacterial strain. The treated fabric gave a good performance in casees stain release as well. Key words Denim fabric, Nano- ZnO, UPF R, Antimicrobial effect, Stain repellency.
* All correspondence should be addressed to, D.Vijayalakshmi, Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore - 04, India E-mail: viji0003@rediffmail.com March - April 2012
Also, because of this way of weaving the threads to make the fabric, the fabric is very strong and durable. 1.2. Why Denim Fabric? Denim is evergreen classic in the fashion cycle. It has been proved and the following statements add support for it. Keith Hull, president, Marketing and Sales, Avondale Mills, Monroe, Ga., said, "Denim is popular because it is comfortable, it looks good and it is versatile. Denim is authentic." John Heldrich, president and CEO, Swift Denim, Columbus, Ga., agrees: "Denim is a cradle-to-grave product. It is the best and most versatile global fabric. It can take on so many different looks through yarns, construction and laundering". Mike Moody, executive vice president and general product manager, cotton apparel, Burlington World Wide Ltd., Greensboro, N.C., attributes denim's popularity to casual dress in the workplace. "Denim is both fashion and performance driven" [2]. 1.3. Application of nanotechnology Nanotechnology is an emerging technology introduced in the area of textiles. Research and development activities are going on all over the world to explore the possibility of this technology in the production of high performance textiles through modification of fiber struc393
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1. Introduction 1.1 History of Denim "Denim is one of the world's oldest fabrics, yet it remains eternally young". The word denim is an Americanization of the French name "serge de Nimes," a fabric which originated in Nimes, France during the middle ages. In 1864, Webster's dictionary listed the shortened English version: denim. The warp yarn is traditionally dyed with the blue pigment obtained from indigo dye. Indigo was the most significant natural dye known to mankind until the introduction of synthetic dyes, at the end of the 19th century [1]. In a twill weave (used in denim), the fabric is constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric and has a surface of diagonal parallel ridges. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly at the back side of the fabric. Due to the denim's right-hand twill construction, one colour predominates on the fabric surface.
FINISHING tures or incorporation of nano particles in the form of finishing treatments.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The impact of nanotechnology in the textile finishing area has brought up innovative finishes as well as new application technique. The finishes obtained using nanotechnology are claimed to be more durable than conventional ones. These advanced finishes setup an unprecedented level of textile performances of stainresistant, hydrophilic, antistatic, wrinkle resistant and shrink proof abilities [3-5]. Nano-size particles have larger surface area and hence higher efficiency than larger size particles. Besides, nano-size particles are transparent and do not blur color and brightness of the textile substrate. As there are various potential applications of nanotechnology in the textile industry, the effect of Nano Particles as functional finishing agent (antibacteria & UV Protection) in cotton fabrics are studied [6-9]. Some of the textile products based on nanotechnology have just began to hit the market and it is only a matter of time before one can see a large scale application of nanotechnology in not only textile, but in applications affecting our day of life as well. Nanotechnology also has real commercial potential for the textile industry. This is mainly due to the fact that conventional methods used to impart different properties to fabrics often do not lead to permanent effects, and will lose their functions after laundering or wearing. Nanotechnology can provide high durability for fabrics, because nano-particles have a large surface area-to-volume ratio and high surface energy, thus presenting better affinity for fabrics and leading to an increase in durability of the function [10]. In addition, a coating of nano-particles on fabrics will not affect their breathability or hand feel [11]. The field of nano finishing in textile technology is very promising due to various end uses like protective textiles for soldiers, medical textiles and smart textiles. With the advancements in synthesis and characterization of various types of nano materials, standardization of application protocol is a must to impart functional finishing to textile materials [12]. In this work an attempt is made to achieve the multifunctional properties in denim material with the help of nano-ZnO treatment. The Study mainly focused on UV resistance, antimicrobial and stain repellent finishes of denim material. 2. Methodology 2.1. Fabric development Light weight denim fabric was developed using 100% cotton yarns. The structure of the fabric developed 394
was 2/1 Right hand twill with warp count (Ne) 26's and weft count (Ne) 30's. The warp and weft density were 125 and 72 respectively. The fabric was desized and enzyme washed before the finish application. 2.2. Synthesis of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles The zinc oxide nanoparticles were prepared by wet chemical method [13-15] using zinc nitrate and sodium hydroxide as precursors and soluble starch as stabilizing agent. 0.1% starch solution was prepared using a microwave oven. 0.1 mol of zinc nitrate was added to the above starch solution. The resulting solution was then kept under constant stirring using a magnetic stirrer to completely dissolve the zinc nitrate. After complete dissolution of zinc nitrate, 0.2 M sodium hydroxide solution was added carefully drop-wise along the sidewalls of the solution vessel with the solution under continuously stirring. The reaction was allowed to proceed for 2 hr after complete addition of sodium hydroxide. After completion of reaction, the solution was allowed to settle overnight. The supernatant liquid was then carefully decanted and the remaining solution was centrifuged at 10,000 rpm for 10 minutes. The nanoparticles that resulted were then washed three times using distilled water. Washing was carried out to remove the by-products and any starch bound to the nanoparticles. The washed nanoparticles were dried overnight at 80C. Drying helps in the complete conversion of Zn (OH)2 to ZnO ) and then it is converted in to powder form. The possible chemical reaction is given below:
• • •
Zn(NO3)2·6H2O + 2NaOHÞ Zn(OH)2 + 2NaNO3 + 6H2O Zn(OH) 2 + 2H 2O ÞZn2+ + 2OH - + 2H2O Þ Zn(OH)2-4 + 2H+ Zn(OH)2-4 ÞZnO + H2O + 2OH-
2.3. Characterization of Zinc Oxide Nano Particles In order to determine the size of the nanoparticles, the synthesized nanoparticles were characterized. The surface topography of metal nanoparticles finished fabric was observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The Nano-ZnO samples were mounted on specimen stubs with double-sided adhesive tape and coated with gold/palladium in a sputter coater and examined with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) Jeol Model JSM6360 March - April 2012
FINISHING
2.4.1 Finishing by Direct Exhaustion Method Table 2.1 : Recipe for Direct Exhaustion method Chemical
Concentration
Nano particle solution
100 ml
Temperature
50 ºC
M:L Ratio
1:20
Citric acid
8.0%
Time
30 mins
The fabric sample was finished with the prepared zinc oxide nanoparticle according to the recipe given in Table 1. The fabric was immersed for 30 mins. After 30 mins, the fabric was removed, squeezed and dried at 80 - 85 ºC in the oven and cured at 150 ºC for 2 mins 2.4.2. Finishing by Microencapsulation Method Microcapsules containing nanoparticles were prepared employing sodium alginate. 3% sodium alginate was prepared and 2% added nanoparticles ware. This was sprayed into calcium chloride solution by means of a sprayer. The droplets were retained in calcium chloride for 15 minutes. The microcapsules were obtained by decantation and repeated washing with iso propyl alcohol followed by drying at 45°C for 12 hours. The microcapsules were then used for finishing on the selected fabrics. 2.4.3 Selection of wall and core material: The nanoparticles prepared were encapsulated using bovine albumin fraction as the wall material and the nanoparticles as the core material. The nanoparticle enclosed bovine serum albumin protein nanoparticle was prepared by coacervation process followed by cross-linking with glutaraldehyde. The nanoparticle was incubated with the required protein solution (2% W/V) for an hour at room temperature. The pH of the solution was adjusted to 5 .5 by 1M HCL using digital pH meter. Then ethanol was added to the solution in the ratio of 2:1 (V/V). The rate of ethanol addition was carefully controlled at 1 ml per minute. The coacervate so formed was hardened with 25% glutaraldehyde for 2 hours to allow cross-linking March - April 2012
of protein. Organic solvents were then removed under reduced pressure by rotary vacuum evaporator and the resulting nanocapsules were purified by centrifugation at (10,000 rpm) at 4ºC. Pellets of nanocapsules thus obtained were then suspended in phosphate buffer (pH -7.4; 0.1 M) and each sample finally was lyophilized with mannitol (2% W/V). The prepared microcapsules and nanocapsules were finished onto the fabrics and the antimicrobial activity was tested as mentioned above. 2.5 Evaluation of Treated Fabric The treated fabrics were evaluated for the physical properties to notice any changes in the fabric properties and it was also tested for the functional aspects like UV protection test antimicrobial test and stain repellency. 2.5.1. UV Protection Test The ability of a fabric to block UV light is given by the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values. The UPF values are calculated according to AATCC test method 183-2004: transmittance or blocking of erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation through fabrics. Erythema refers to the abnormal redness of the skin (sunburn) due to capillary congestion (as in inflammation) [16]. Measurements were performed in a UV-visible spectrophotometer using an integrating sphere loaded with conditioned sample (21 ± 1 0C, 65 ± 2% RH, for 4 h) from 280 nm at an interval of 1 nm. The percentage blockings of UV-A (315-400 nm) and UVB (280-315 nm) were calculated from the transmittance data. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated using the following equation: Where E is the relative erythermal spectral effectiveness, S is the solar spectral irradiance, T is the average spectral transmission of the specimen, and _ is the measured wavelength interval (nm). The UPF equation weighs the UV-B radiation more heavily than UVA. The average A-range ultraviolet (UV-A) transmittance:
The average B-range ultraviolet (UV-B) transmittance:
The percent blocking for UV-A and for UV-B using 395
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
2.4. Application of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles The fabric was finished using two different methods like direct exhaustion of nano ZnO particles and micro encapsulation of nano ZnO particles.
FINISHING = 100%-T(UV-A) = 100%-T(UV-B) where: T(UV-A) or T(UV-B) is expressed as a percentage. 2.5.2 Antimicrobial Test To investigate the antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics impregnated with nano-ZnO, evaluation was carried out with Staphylococcus aureus, a Gram-positive bacterium and E.Coli, a Gram negative bacterium. The treated and untreated fabric samples were placed in the AATCC bacteriostasis agar (AATCC, 2005) [17], which has been previously inoculated (Mat culture) with a test organism. After incubation, a clear area of uninterrupted growth underneath and along the side of the test material indicates the antibacterial effectiveness of the fabric. The area of the inhibition zone is a measure of antibacterial effectiveness of the material. 2.5.3 Physical Testing The following physical tests were done before and after the nano-ZnO treatment: • Fabric Tear strength (ASTM D-1424-96)
• • • • •
Fabric Shirley Stiffness test (BS 3356-90) Fabric Pilling test (IS:10971-94) Fabric drape measurement (BS 5058:1973) Fabric Air permeability ( ASTM D 737-2004) Stain release property (AATCC 130-2000)
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
3. Results and Discussion 3.1 SEM Analysis Fig. 3.1 shows the SEM micrograph of nano-ZnO. It is evident from the SEM photographs that, the size of the ZnO nanoparticle varied from 85 to 108 nm.
Figure 3.2 : Zinc oxide nanoparticles imparted in denim fabric using exhaustion method
Fig. 3.2 is the SEM micrograph of the cotton fiber surface treated with ZnO nano particle, The ZnO got spread evenly and no agglomerated patches were formed in throughout the topology of the cotton fabrics. 3.2 Comparison of Physical Testing Results From the Table 3.1 it can be noted that, the nano-ZnO treatment has very minimum influence on the basic physical properties. The result shows that there is a slight reduction in the air permeability and tearing strength values. The stiffness of the fabric also got affected considerably in warp direction. The crease recovery angle increases in all ways (Warp face, back and weft). The drape coefficient value also shows that the nano-ZnO treatment increases the drape ability of the fabric in a considerable amount. There is a slight variation in abrasion resistance observed in both warp (increase) and weft (Reduction) direction. Table 3.1 : Physical Test Comparison S.No Name of the test
Raw fabric Finished fabric
1
Ends per inch
125
125
2
Picks per inch
72
72
3
Warp count
26's Ne
26's Ne
4
Weft count
30's Ne
30's Ne
5
Tear strength warp weft
2714 gf 2419 gf
6
Air permeability
Figure 3.1 : SEM Photography of Zinc oxide Nano particles 396
March - April 2012
1984 gf 1996 gf
17 12 c.c/cm.sq./sec. c.c/cm.sq./sec.
FINISHING 7
Fabric stiffness warp weft
3.00 cms 1.6 cms
1.7 cms 1.5 cms
8 9
Fabric pilling test 5(no pilling) 5(no pilling) Drape 83% 72% coefficient%
10
Crease recovery warp face 690 warp back 830 weft 1120
11
12
990 990 1210
tiple of five to give the reported UPF rating. One effect of this is that materials actually need to achieve a calculated UPF value of 55 or higher in order to be classified as UPF 50+. Table 3.4 mentions the effectiveness UPF R value as per AS/NZS 4399, Sun protective clothing - Evaluation and classification (1996) [18]. The nano-ZnO coated cotton fabrics showed efficient blocking of UV radiation (96 -97.4%). Table 3.2 : Ultraviolet Protection factor Test type
Direct method
Micro encapsulation
UPF R
31
30
Abrasion resistance warp weft
149 153
296 256
% of Blocking UV A 82.7
82.16
Fabric cover factor
26
25
% of Blocking UV B 86.27
85.13
3.3 Analysis of Ultraviolet Protection Factor The ultraviolet protection of a fabric is expressed by the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF). The UPF evaluates the reduction in the amount of the UV radiation that passes through the fabric to the skin. a)
Table 3.3 : UPF Standard UPF Rating
Protection category
% UVR blocked
15, 20
Good
93.3 to 95.9
25, 30, 35
Very good
96.0 to 97.4
40, 45, 50, 50+
Excellent
97.5 or more
Figure 3.3 : Ultraviolet Protection in direct exhaustion (a) and microencapsulated (b) fabrics
Table 3.3 shows the per cent blockings of UV-A (315400 nm) and UV-B (280-315 nm). For the calculation of UPF R, the calculated UPF value (or the lowest measured value) is rounded down to the nearest mulMarch - April 2012
ZnO is preferable to other inorganic forms of zinc because of its lower toxicity and higher efficiency in preventing infection. In the control fabric the growth of both Staphylococcus aureus and E.coli was found on the fabric as well as surrounding the fabric sample. In nano -ZnO treated (Exhaust method) and coated (Microencapsulated) fabric, there was no bacterial growth on the fabric and surrounding the fabric as shown in Figure 5.
397
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
3.4 Antibacterial Assessment Fabrics are an excellent medium for the growth of microorganisms when the basic requirements such as nutrients, moisture, oxygen and appropriate temperature are present. Natural fibres like cotton are more susceptible to microbial attack than synthetic fibres. Hence, cotton coated with nano-ZnO was evaluated for antibacterial activity. The fabric samples were cut into a diameter of 2cm + 0.1cm & taken for the analysis. Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were used for test.
FINISHING Figure 3.6 : Nano-ZnO treated fabric after staining prior to wash
Figure 3.7 : Nano-ZnO treated fabric after wash
(a)
(b)
Figure 3.4 : Antibacterial activity against a) Escherichia coli and b) Staphylococcus aureus
The Table 3.4 indicates the zone of inhibition values of the treated material. Both the method imparts good antibacterial property to the fabric. The direct application of ZnO gives higher inhibition of 34 and 32 against S.Aureus and E.coli respectively. ZnO has been found to have several advantages, including marked antibacterial activity in the neutral region (pH = 7) without the presence of light, and being non-toxic to humans. We concluded that nano-ZnO might have a bactericidal action effect on S. aureus and bacteriostatic action on E.Coli. Table 3.4 : Zone of Inhibition value for nano- ZnO treated fabric S.No. Bacteria
Antibacterial Activity(mm) in Treated Denim Fabric Direct method
1 2
Micro encapsulation
Staphylococcus Aureus
40
33
Escherichia coli
32
26
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
3.5. Analysis of stain release
Figure 3.5 : Nano-ZnO treated fabric prior to staining
398
Figure 3.8 : Analysis of stain release
The stain release property of the finished fabric is determined by AATC 130-2000 [19]. The stain such as vegetable stain, soil and saffron are released completely in the tumble wash from both the finished fabrics. The stain such as vegetable oil and pickle are not completely removed. From these results it is confirmed that, apart from the antimicrobial, UV protection activity the finished fabric also has stain release property. 4. Conclusion The zinc oxide used in the present study has successfully resulted in multifunctional activities such as Ultraviolet Protection, Antibacterial and Stain Repellence. As denim is mostly used by all consumers for a extended period of time, this attempt of applying multifunctional finishes to denim fabric will pay a new way to denim industry to satisfy the changing needs and requirements of their customers. The results proved that the finish applied to the denim fabric does not affect its normal physical and functional properties. The nano - ZnO finished fabric by exhaustion method and microencapsulation method were characterized by SEM analysis both in particle stage and after applying on fabric. The UPF R values of the nano-ZnO finished fabric are 31. The antimicrobial property values and stain releasing ability of the treated material opens a new era in denim application. The present investigation will form the fundamental aspects in denim finishing, which is found to be rare in denim industry. Hence, from this research it is clearly evident that there is wide scope and opportunities for commercialization of this technology by the denim industry. March - April 2012
FINISHING References 1. w w w. d e n v e r f a b r i c s . c o m / c o n t e n t / d e n i m / denim.aspx. 2. Virginia S. Borland, denim is in our genes. Textile world, June 2002. 3. Lein Qian, Juan P, Application of nanotechnology in High performance Textile, JTATM, 4, Issue 1, 2004. 4. http:// www.nano-tex.com 5. Y.W .H Wong, et. al., Selected applications of Nanotechnology in Textiles, Autex research Journal, 6, No.1, 2006. 6. S Rajendran and S C Anand. .Development of Versatile Antimicrobial Finish for Textile Materials for Health Care and Hygiene Applications. Bolton Institute, UK. 7. Vigneshwaran N et.al., Functional finishing of cotton fabrics using zinc oxide-soluble starch nano composites, Institute of Physics Publishing, Nano Technology, 17 (2006), 5087- 5095. 8. Teli MD., Textiles that care for health, hygiene and social acceptance - Part 1, Asian Dyer, 2006, 47. 9. Anonymous, Small-scale technology with the promise of big rewards, Technical Textiles International, 2003. 3: p. 13-15. 10. Jeevani T (2011) Nanotechnology in Agriculture., J Nanomedic Nanotechnol, 2:124. doi:10.4172/21577439.1000124
11. Amy Frederick (2011) Smart Nanotextiles: Inherently Conducting Polymers in Healthcare. da Vinci's Notebook 3: 1-2 12. Kathirvelu S (2008) Nanotechnology applications in textiles, Indian Journal of Science and Technology., 1, No 5. 2008. 13. Vigneshwaran, N., Nachane, R.P., Balasubramanya, R.H., Varadarajan, P.V. A novel one-pot 'green' synthesis of stable silver nanoparticles using soluble starch (2006) Carbohydrate Research, 341 (12), pp. 2012-2018. 14. W.D schindler and P.J hauser, Chemical finishing of textile, 2004. 15. Yadav A et.al., Functional finishing in cotton fabrics using zinc oxide nanoparticles, Bull. Mater. Sci., 29, No. 6, November 2006, pp. 641-645. 16. AATCC Test Method 183-2004 2005 AATCC Technical Manual, 338. 17. AATCC Test Method 147-2004 2005 AATCC Technical Manual 263. 18. Gies, P. and Roy C. Ultraviolet radiation, ozone thinning, the environment and UPF testing. Proceedings SDCANZ Textiles and Sun Protection Conference (ISBN 0 7334 0404 9), UNSW, May 1993, pp 6-24. 19. AATCC Test Method 130-2000, AATCC Technical Manual. rrr
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TEXSPECIAL
Innovation In Sizing - Starch Free Cold Sizing Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Sizing Consultant
Mr. Haresh B. Parekh
Mr. Haresh B. Parekh is a Diploma Holder in Weaving. He has worked in reputed textile houses like Hindustan Spinning and Weaving Mills, Mafatlal Group of Industries and Standard Group. He also worked with Orkay Silk Mills for 5 years. He then joined Emvee Synthetics, Umbergaon and was designated as Factory Manager for 11 years. He was responsible for factory management, planning of Sulzer Weaving machines and motivated colleagues to achieve zero-defect production. He also worked as a Factory Manager (Furnishing & Upholstery House) in Jaq-Cad Tex Fab (India) Pvt. Ltd. and is presently doing the consultancy in sizing process.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
All industrial operations produce some wastewater which must be returned to the environment. Textile industries produce wastewater, otherwise known as effluent, as a by-product of their production. Effluent from the textile industry is a major source of environmental pollution, especially water pollution. The various stages of textile production, like sizing, pre-treatments (desizing, scouring, bleaching), dyeing and finishing play a major role in polluting the environment. The textile wastes contain unused or partially used organic compounds, colour, TDS, TSS, high biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) and chemi-
cal oxygen demand (COD). They are often of strong colour and may also be of high temperature. When disposed into water bodies or onto land these effluents will result in the deterioration of ecology and damage to aquatic life. Furthermore they may cause damage to fisheries and economic loss to fishermen and farmer, there may be impacts on human health. Sizing of yarn is a must stage before it is woven into fabric. In the production of woven fabrics, warp yarns are sized with a protective coating to improve weaving efficiency. Movement of the warp yarn through the heddles and mechanical actions during insertion of filling creates a great deal of abrasive stresses on these yarns. Unprotected, the warp yarns cannot withstand the rigors of weaving. They will break causing machine to stop and thus be responsible for loss of productivity. Weaving efficiencies are vastly improved when the warp is properly sized. Size or Sizing is defined as the composition of matter applied to the warp yarn for weaving protection. Size usually consists of water soluble, film forming macromolecule and a lubricant. The following list summarizes the materials that can be used as warp sizes.
• Starches • Polyvinyl alcohol • Gums • Gelatines • Carboxymethyl cellulose • Polyacrylic acids • Dextrin • Synthetic polymers and co-poly mers 400
March - April 2012
After the fabric is woven, the size left on the fabric is a nuisance for the further wet processes as it forms a film on the fabric making it nonabsorbent. Once a cooked starch solution dries, the resulting film will not again readily dissolve in water; therefore, to completely remove starch from a fabric, the polymer must be chemically degraded to make it water soluble. Thus processors carry out desizing to remove the size from the fabric. Desizing can be carried out by following methods each method has its own peculiar advantages and disadvantages. 1. Rot steeping This is the least expensive and the oldest method of desizing in which no special chemicals are added. Here starch sized fabric is passed through the padding mangle and saturated with water at 75oC to give 90-95 % pick-up. Then the fabric is allowed to remain for 24 hrs. During which starch becomes solubilised in water because of fermentation. Limitation of this process is, this method does not produce uniform results. It requires large floor space area and longer duration of time. 2. Acid desizing In this method, the sized cloth is treated with 0.25 % (w/v) solution of HCl or H2SO4 at 25-30oC for 812 hrs pick-up 90-95 %. This hydrolysis is mildly exothermic and all the starch present in the cloth may be solubilised. Limitation of this process is there is always a risk of tendering or weakening of cotton by acid hydrolysis. 3. Desizing with oxidising agents Sodium hypochlorite, sodium hypobromite and sodium or potassium
TEXSPECIAL Teflon drying cylinder temperature kept in range 90 o C to 100o C instead of 130oC
Þ
persulfate will also degrade starch. The reaction opens anhydroglucose rings at the - 2, 3- hydroxyls, converting them into carboxylic acid groups. This method is not used much either because it too degrades cellulose fibers.
Finishing drying cylinder temperature kept in range 40oC to 50oC instead of 80oC to 90oC
Þ
4. Enzyme desizing
Þ After checking refractive index, taken in saw box directly
Þ Saw box temperature kept in the range of 50oC to 60oC instead of 90oC
Þ Trails also taken with the addition of softener.
Efficiency of beam improved above 90% Observation after Process 1) 100% steam cost saving for cooking 2) Approximately 50% cost saving in saw box 3) 50% cost saving in Teflon and finished cylinders 4) Time saving for cooking process due to same sizing, production increased 5) As cold sizing material is STARCH FREE, desizing is not required 6) Added Size removed from the fabric by hot water washing only 7) By this way it reduces processing cost 8) Cold sizing chemical can be reused even after long period of time for next sizing process Observation of Acrylic size chemical 1) Basic raw material of size chemical is acrylic based size, it improves film forming properties. 2) Size chemical is reusable even after long period of time and due to same, dead loss is 0%. 3) Size add-on can be removed easily from fabric by hot water washing or subsequently the fabric can be finished with addition of SILICON SOFTNER for LUSTER SOFTNESS on Stenter. Hence reduces processing cost. 4) Saving of costing of 'EFFLUENT TREATMENT' as size chemical is starch free. 5) Zero discharge of chemicals in water. Conclusion There is enormous potential to economise on cost due to energy and water saving as well as effluent treatment particularly during post sizing operation i.e. desizing in cold sizing process by using Acrylic Size. No BOD or COD or other harmful substances in the effluent discharged from the sizing.
Þ
(Compiled by Miss. Rachana Harane) March - April 2012
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Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Cold Sizing Chemical diluted with cold water as pre desired ratio in storage tank directly without cooking (for energy saving)
Substantial reduction in the warp breakages
Þ
Process Control of Cold Sizing with Acrylic Size With the idea of cost and energy saving trials have been taken with cold size chemical on Suker Mullar sizing machine with 50s cotton grey and dyed yarn with 5000 ends. The flow chart of the process is as follows;
No dusting of size chemical found during process of weaving
Þ
As cold sizing material is free from starch, desizing is not required & size chemical can be removed from the fabric by hot water washing or subsequently fabric can be finished with addition of 'Silicon Softener' or 'Luster Softness' on Stenter. Hence it reduces processing cost.
Cold size beam run on Sulzer rapier weaving machine
Þ
Keeping in mind the above limitations of every desizing process and the hazardous effluent generated being desizing process mandatory, some of the companies have developed cold sizing process which is starch free and eliminates the process of desizing, scouring etc. This cold sizing process requires cold water to prepare size solution (no cooking/heating required hence steam energy is saved) followed by drying at lower temperatures than conventional high drying temperature. Only optimum temperature is required in sow-box i.e. 40 to 50 oC for penetration.
After sizing hairiness of yarn is considerably reduce Cold sizing chemical reused even after long period of time for next sizing process
Þ
Enzymes are very specific in action on specific substrates. Natural biodegradable sizing compounds, such as starches, can be hydrolysed by amylases. Action of these enzymes on starch is highly selective and cellulose remains totally unaffected on account of the specific nature of enzyme action. But enzymes are costly and a proper pH and temperature has to be maintained for the enzyme activity.
TEXNOTES
Stain and Spot Removal for Washable Fabrics
Stains are intensively coloured substances that are noticeable when present in small amounts on textiles and resist removal by detergents. It is a collective term for the local discolouration of a textile which is usually undesirable. Stains are caused by chemical bonding between a coloured substances and the fibre. The substance that causes stains generally falls into one of the following three categories; greasy stains, non-greasy stains and combination stains. Stains may also be divided into two groups: the "build up" and the "absorbed". A built up stain is mostly on the surface, such as gum, food, blood, etc. The absorbed stain penetrates into the material between the interlacing or the interloopings of the yarns as well as actually "getting into" the yarns of the goods. The stains in the first group are easier to remove methods such as brushing, scraping, etc. can remove the stains. Removal of stains requires certain precautions to be observed. When the origin of a stain is known, cleaning is simplified. Two factors that work against ease of restoring the fabric are the length of time that the stain
sets and heat the spot may have experienced. The spot should be cleaned as fast as practical or kept wet with water. Tumble drying should be avoided until the spot is removed. It is important to remove the stain without changing the appearance or changing the properties of the fabric. Stains are assessed visually according to the following scale 0 - Stain undetectable 1 - Very slight staining 2 - Slight staining 3 - Moderate staining 4 - Fairly heavy staining 5 - Heavy staining 6 - Very heavy staining Stages involved in the identification of stains may be remembered by using the mnemonic FOCAL i.e. Feel, Odour, Colour, Appearance and Location.
68th ALL INDIA TEXTILE CONFERENCE The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Chapter is hosting 68th All India Textile Conference in association with TAI Central Office on 30th November & 1st December 2012 (Friday & Saturday) at Hotel International Grand Maratha Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai.
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Conference will provide a Double Treat to the textile professionals as it will coincide with the India-ITME Exhibition, which will be held from 2nd to 7th December 2012. This will be wonderful opportunity to those who intends to visit India ITME Exhibition to listen to global experts as well senior textile magnets including beaurocrates, who will be specially visiting for attending India-ITME Exhibition. The Conference will cover topics and panel discussions which hitherto not covered so far. TAI appeals for active participation by way of; • Accepting to be Sponsor or Patron to this event
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Inserting the advertisement in the Souvenir & Book of Papers Encouraging maximum friends to register as delegates For more details contact THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) 402
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TEXNOTES Classification of Stain Removing Agents Solvents
Hydrocarbon
Benzene, Toluene
Chlorinated hydrocarbon
CCl4, Trichloroethylene, Perchloroethylene
Petroleum based
Petroleum ether, Solvent naphtha, Kerosene, Turpentine
Alcohols/ ethers/ketones
Ethyl alcohol, Amyl alcohol, Amyl Acetate, Acetone, Glycerine
Oxidizing agents
H2O2, Sodiumperborate, Sodium hypochlorite, Potassium permanganate, Oxalic acid
Reducing agents
Sodium hydrosulphite, Sodium thiosulphate, Sodium bisulphite
Oils/Fats
Fatty acids
Coconut oil, Olein, Oleic acid
Emulsifiers
Anionic
Soaps, Alkylaryl sulphonates, Fatty acid alcoholsulphonates
Nonionic
Teepol, Detergent based on fatty alcohol, Alkyl phenolcondensates, Fatty acid condensates, Fatty amine oxides
Organic
1 % oxalic acid, 30% formic acid, 1 % acetic acid, white vinegar, tomato, lime, sour milk, curds
Inorganic
Dilute HCl
Alkalies
Weak
Ammonium hydroxide, Liquid ammonia 10 %, soda ash 1 %
Enzymes
Protease, Amylase, Lipase
Enzyme soap
Absorbents
Inorganic Powders
Talcum powder, Corn starch, French chalk, Fullers earth
Bleaches
Acids
The stain and spot from the textile substrates can be removed by; Solvent action, Absorbent action, Detergent action, Digestion action and Lubrication action. Some common stain removal methods for different substrates Substrates
Stain/Spot
Removal Method
Blood
Soaking in cold water and then washing in lukewarm soap solution
Chewing gum
Rub with ice until remaining gum rolls into a ball, then sponge with dry cleaning fluid
Coffee and Tea
Boiling water should be poured through it from a height
Fruit Juice
Boiling water and bleach such as H2O2 and ammonia. Follow with a clear water rinse
Grass
H2O2 with NH3, milk or alcohol should be applied
Grease
Benzene, gasoline, naphtha, CCl4 and CHCl3 are used
Ink
Soaked in sour milk or salt and lemon juice should be applied
Lipstick
Rub with a piece of bread then sponged with a dry-cleaning fluid
Paint and varnish
Turpentine, benzene and kerosene should be applied
Scorch
Sunlight may prove effective
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Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Cotton
TEXNOTES Silk
Substrates
Stain/Spot
Removal Method
Blood
Soaked overnight in cold water, and then washed with lukewarm water. Lemon juice and salt is good bleach if fabric is either white or a fast colour
Coffee and Chocolate Boiling water poured from a height through the stain then be washed in soap and water Fruit Juice
Treatment with an alkali; such as NH3 and alcohol mixed in equal proportions
Grease and dirt
Dry cleaning fluids such as naphtha, benzene, gasoline usually remove these spots
Ink
Aniline inks can be removed with acetic acid. Other fresh inks are washed or soaked in milk
Perspiration
Dilute HCl will remove stains of perspiration- one part acid to 75 or 100 parts water Wool
Substrates
Stain/Spot
Removal Method
Grease Ink
Sponge lengthwise with warm water and soap Soak overnight in yoghurt. Washable ink stains can be removed with soap and water if action is prompt
Scorch
Sponge with soap and lukewarm water Linen Substrates
Stain/Spot
Removal Method
Blood and Egg
Cool water rinse
Ink
Hold the spot against a paper towel and spray with water closely from the back
Lipstick
Rub with a piece of bread then sponge with a dry-cleaning fluid.
Candle Wax
Chill with ice and scrape off as much as possible. Then iron out remainder between sheets of absorbent paper
Cosmetics
Petroleum jelly/cold cream, followed with pre-wash
Milk, Fruit Juice, Tomato and Vinegar
Cool water rinse
Red wine
Pour salt to absorb the wine. If the wine has dried, rinse with club soda
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Cotton/ Polyester Blended
Substrates
Stain/Spot
Removal Method
Oil
Saturate the stain with a liquid laundry detergent. Massage thoroughly but gently. Rinse by hand briefly with warm water
Plant and protein
Saturate the stain with a liquid laundry detergent containing non-chlorine bleach
Dyes
Use a liquid laundry detergent containing non-chlorine bleach
Particulate soils
If the article is wet, air dry then soil remove by vacuum
Stain removal although thousands of years old, is still a mystery in many cases. Substantial progress has been made over the years, although the improvement of stain removal efficiency is still a question to be answered. - By
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March - April 2012
Chet Ram Meena
UNIT ACTIVITY
The Textile Association (India)
second prize whereas third prize was secured by Ms.PranaleePatil of JDIET, Yavatmal.
Marathwada Unit
Texplorer 2012
Mr.DilipMahajan, MD, Rokadeshwar Spinning Mills, Basmathnagar, Hingolibeing felicitated by Dr. A. K. Chakrabarti, Head of Dept. Of Textile Technology, SGGSIE & T, Nanded at the Inauguration Ceremony of Texplorer 2012
In the paper presentation contest, amongst 30 teams, first prize was won by Mr.Jees Johnson and Ms.Nimisha Save of VJTI, Mumbai followed by Mr.RituranaDeori and Ms.MidhunaHarindran of DKTE, Ichalkarnaji for March - April 2012
A snapshot of Garment Presentation at Fashionaire by Participants
In Fashion ware, amongst 50 teams, first prize went to INIFD, Jalna followed by Govt. Polytechnic, Nashik for second prize while third prize went to Savvy Institute of Fashion Designing, Nashik. In Technical Textile Exhibition category, amongst 15 teams, first prize went to SGGSIE&T followed by DKTE, Ichalkaranji for second prize while third prize went to Anuradha College of Engineering, Chikhli, Buldhana.
Participants at the Techno Text (Technical Textile Exhibition) and Mr.GovindAmilkanthwarall members of TAI
students' chapter, Marathwada Unit helped in organizing Texplorer 2012.
Texttreasure Forgiveness does not change the past, but it does enlarge the future. - Paul Boese 405
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
A joint activity of SGGS Institute of Engineering and Technology, Nanded(SGGSIE&T) and TAI, Matrathwada Chapter was organized at SGGSIE&T from 16th to 18th March 2012. Texplorer is aimed towards the exploration and knowledge of the students in textile and related fields.It included three events: Paper Presentation Competition, Technical Textile Exhibition and Fashion fair. This got a statewide overwhelming response from various institutes running textile and fashion designing courses. The inauguration was done by Mr.Dilip Mahajan, MD, Rokadeshwar Spinning Mills, Basmathnagar, Hingoli and Prof. B. M. Dabade, Director SGGSIE&T, presided over the function. Prof. B. Basu, SASMIRA, Mumbai and Prof. ShakeelIqbal, NIFT, Hyderabad was in the panel of judges along with Prof. A. K. Chakrabarti, Prof. P. Kar, Prof. P. G. Solankar, Prof. V. K. Joshi, Prof. R. N. Joshi and Mr.ShaikhMukhtiyar of SGGSIE&T.
UNIT ACTIVITY Sadhan Chandra Roy, Achintya Kumar Mondal, Piyali Hatua & Jayshir Saha, DJFT (CU).
West Bengal Unit Proceedings of the 61st Technological Conference 61st anniversary one day Technological Conference of the Textile Association (I), West Bengal Unit, was held on 10th March, 2012 at 10 A.M. at the Kennedy Hall of the Dept. of Jute & Fibre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, University of Calcutta, 35, Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata - 700019 with the theme "TRENDS IN TEXTILES". Sri A.K. Roy, Chairman, TA (I), W.B. Unit Welcomed the audience and spoke about the activities of the W.B. Unit and about the Conference.
Sri Jiwraj Sethia, the Vice President TA (I), W.B. Unit gave his address highlighting the present position of the Textile Industry . Dr. Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay, Pro-Vice Chancellor (Academic), University of Calcutta inaugurated the Conference by lighting the lamp and gave his inaugural address.
Paper 3.
Studies of Yarn Properties Through Compacting - Prof. Sunil Kr. Sett, P. Das, A Bhattacharjee, S. Koley and D. Dey, DJFT (CU).
Paper 4.
Development of Low Cost Jute Bags for Foodgrains and Sugar - Partha Sanyal, Palash Paul and Ashoke Kumar Ganguli, Indian Jute Industries' Research Association (IJIRA).
Paper 5.
Geotextiles and its Application in Coastal Protection and off-shore Engineering Asish Mitra, Viswa Bharati University, Santiniketan. After lunch at 2.15 p.m. the 2nd Technical Session started Chaired by Dr. Sadhan Chandra Roy, DFJT, Calcutta University.
Paper 6.
Trends in Field Trials for Road Construction for Jute-Textiles - Prof. (Dr.) A.K. Majumdar, Calcutta Institute of Technology, Uluberia, Howrah, W.B.
Paper 7.
Study of Stress in Filled Jute Bag - Prof. Asis Mukhopadhyay (DJFT), Prof. Biswapati Chatterjee and Prof. Prabal Kumar Majumdar, GCETT(Serampore).
Paper 8.
Textile Trends from the Indian Runway Ms. Sreenanda Palit, Associate Professor, NIFT (Kolkata).
Paper 9.
Developments of Novel Bleaching Process to Improve light fastness properties of Bleached Jute - A. C. Deka, S. Basu and S. Ghosh (IJIRA).
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Dr. R.C. Tiwari, President, TA (I), W.B. Unit spoke about the conference and the activity of the W.B. Unit. Dr. B.C. Mitra, Ex-Director, NIRJAFT gave his Keynote Address. After thanks giving by Sri A.K. Roy High Tea was served and at 11.30 A.M. the 15' Technical Session started with Gollowing papers. Paper 1.
Environmental and Climate Change Issue in Textile Industry - Dr. Abhijit Biswas, GCETl- (Berhampore).
Paper 2.
Studies on Yarn Package Density - Prof. 406
March - April 2012
UNIT ACTIVITY Paper 10. Today's Trends in Chemical Finishing of Garments - Prof. (Dr.) A.K. Samanta (DJFT-CU) & Dr. Sunanda Mitra Roy, Rani Birla College. Paper 11. Critical Study on Healthy and Safe Appearal for Kids - Mrs. Ahana Majumder, Asst. Prof., NIFT (Kolkata).
paper at an International Conference held at Korea. Further, Dr. B. J. Agrawal was flitated for his paper presentation at an International conference in Singapore and Dr. A. K. Mairal was felicitated for being awarded Major Rank at Gaziabad.
Paper 12. World Class Manufacturing (WCM) of Textiles - Sudrisha Dutta Banik, 4th Year Student (DJFT - CU). At 4.00 P.M. Validictory Session started Dr. S.K. Seth (DJFT) and Dr. B.C. Mitra, Ex-Director NIRJAFT analyzed the papers presented and hoped that Textile Industry would move fast with innovations and progress. Lucky Dip Draw was held with the Members present at the end of the session and 3 prizes were distributed with the Lucky winners. Conference was a Grand Success with the participation of good number of delegates. Tea was served at close.
Baroda Unit Half Day Seminar on Digital Printing and Styling A Half day Seminar was organized on 10th Jan, 2012 by Textile Association (India) Baroda unit in collaboration with Alumni Association of Textile Chemistry, Clothing & Textile & ACTI Baroda chapter.
The Chairperson of the session was Prof. V. H. Kapadia who introduced the eminent Speakes "hr J. H Thakkar (Head. Textile Processing Dept. Dr. S. & SS Gandhi Engg College Surat) who has presented his paper on "Digital Textile Printing: An Innovative technique and discussed various technical aspects of Digital printing for textile applications and Dr. Rina Bhatia (Associate Professor, Clothing & Textiles Dept., Faculty of Community Sciences) presented her talk on "Styling for Body Types" and illustrated the designing aspects of various garments and also explained what aspects one should keep in mind while selecting a garment suitable to his/ her body style. The program ended with vote of thanks given by Dr. Bipin J. Agrawal.
Rajasthan Unit A Report of the Seminar organised by TA (I) Rajasthan Unit on 5th May 2012
Dr. Dhirendra Sharma welcoming gathering
A Workshop was organized by The Textile Association of India-Rajasthan Unit in association with the MCX Stock Exchange (MCX-SX) jointly with Anand Rathi Securities on 05.05.2012 at Hotel Harsh Palace, Bhilwara. The programme started at 7 PM with lighting of lamp by the distingued personalities on the dias. Dr Dhirendra Sharma, March - April 2012
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Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The seminar started by Dr Hireni Mankodi, Hon. Secretary and welcome address given by Prof. R. P Gupta, President of TAI, Baroda unit. Dr. D. P. Chattopadhyay and Dr. J.N. Shah are Felicitated for presenting their
Shri Ravi Bhattar, Sr. Regional Manager, is welcoming
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Sh. Ravi Bhattar, Sr. Regional Manager, MCX-SX, Jaipur informed that MCX-SX offers a world-class electronic platform for hedging currency risk and is currently the market leader in this segment. Within a year of inception, MCX-SX has achieved a stupendous growth in average daily turnover and open interest. The average daily turnover increased from ` 355 crore during its first month of operations to Rs. 13,783.71 Cr. in Nov. 2011. He stated that a sharp volatility in Dollar-Rupee market is being witnessed. In recent times we have seen the move from 45 to 52 levels, a move of around 15 % in last 4 months. As the economy continues to grow and open up, it is imperative that corporate India should effectively cope with managing currency risk through exchange traded currency futures. Sh Sajal Gupta, Sr Vice President, Anand Rathi Securities, informed that Anand Rathi is an important platform for hedging. He educated the audience about currency futures and stated that currency futures contract is a standardized version of a forward contract that is traded on a regulated exchange. It is an agreement to buy or sell a specified quantity of an underlying currency on a specified date in future at a specified rate. TA(I) President Sh R N Gupta critically commented on the presentation by Mr Gupta and Mr Bhattar. The programme ended with Vote of Thanks by Sh R N Gupta followed by Dinner. 408
March - April 2012
Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 Mobile: +91-22-9819801922 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, taicnt@mtnl.net.in
TA(I) Chairman Mr R L Nolkha, (Chairman, Nitin Spinners Ltd., Bhilwara) in the inaugural address, informed the audience about the importance of the topic and stated how TA(I) can be useful in fulfilling the objectives of industries involved in import-export activities. He shared his experience in hedging of currency, a safe mode for exporters particularly in this fluctuating currency rates.
Publisher
Hon Secretary of the unit, in his welcome address, informed the audience about various activities and objectives of TA(I) Rajasthan Unit.
Contact us to know more about JTA:
UNIT ACTIVITY
NEWS
UNION BUDGET Increase in Excise Duty may render Man-Made Fibre Textiles uncompetitive
Shri V.K. Ladia, Chairman - SRTEPC Commenting on the Union Budget, Shri Vinod Kumar Ladia, Chairman of The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) said that the hike in excise duty for Man-made Fibre, Filament Yarn, etc., from 10% to 12% would make Indian Man-Made Fibre Textiles uncompetitive against natural fibres. He also added that this will go against the spirit of the proposed National Fibre Policy, which envisages a level-playing field for Man-Made Fibre textiles so that the use of the same is increased. He also pointed out that, Man-Made fibre consumption in India is only 35% as against the global usage of 68%. Shri Ladia also expressed his concern over the increase in the rates of service tax to 12%. However, he welcomed the move to have a simplified mechanism to refund service tax to the exporters.
Dr. Mahapatra joins in BTT Overseas Expert Team
tions are going to help BTT to improve and grow further. Dr.Mahapatra is a B.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, Mumbai(Now it is (ICT). He also holds a M.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University,Orissa. He did his M.B.A from I.M.M., Kolkata. Dr.Mahapatra is having 27 years of experience in textile industries in India and abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birlas(both Aditya Birla and K K Birla group) Reliance, Raymond (Kenya), Churchgate Group (Nigeria), GSL (formerly Gujarat Spinners Ltd), LNJ Bhilwara (RSWM) Group in various senior capacities . In the year 2007 he was awarded C Col FSDC (U.K.) and C Text FTI (Manchester). In the year 2008 he was awarded the F.T.A from the Textile Association (India) & F.I.C from the Institution of Chemists,Kolkata. In the year 2009 he was awarded the F.I.E. from the Institution of Engineers (India). He has implemented many new technologies which have benefite the Textile Industries.He is a Senior Member of American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists.He is a Life Member of Indian Institute of Chemical Engineers, Indian Chemical Society, Indian Colour Society,UDCT Alumni Association,Indian ScienceCongress Association, and IndianAssociation for Science Fiction. He is a Patron Member of Association of Chemical Technologist (India) Ahmedabad.He is also member of All India Management Association.In 2008 his name is included in American Biographical Institute Inc. (U.S.A) for professional recognition and peer communication. Dr. Mahapatra is Vice Chairman of the Textile Association (India).
Dr. N.N.Mahapatra, Head , Business Development, HindprakashLonsen Industries Pvt .Ltd, India has been joined in the Overseas Technical Expert Team of Bangladesh Textile Today. In the line of his career he is used to write articles on innovations and happening hence always in touch with research and development activities. Expertise of Dr. Mahapatra and his contribuMarch - April 2012
Bangladesh Textile Today welcomes Dr. Mahapatra in its team and look forward to work together for the betterment of the industry. The Textile Association (India) congratulates Dr. Mahapatra for his involvement in the team of BTT.
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Journal of the TEXTILE Association
He has contributed more than 130 papers in textile journals,having international circulation and presented more than15 technical papers in various seminars/conferences in the country and abroad.
NEWS
Global Textile Alliance Expands Manufacturing In India Global Textile Alliance, a leading manufacturer based in Belgium is expanding its global distribution of mattresses cover fabric manufacturing by opening a new unit in India. Global Textile Alliance units the world's most innovative textile mills under a single brand, offering domestic and overseas mills the opportunity to band together and market materials under the "Global Textile Alliance" brand name. The new manufacturing unit is inaugurated on 19th April 2012 at India's knit city Tirupur.The initial investment of around Euro 900,000 in plant and machinery, the plant will have an initial production capacity of 50,000 meters of ticking fabric per month. GTA, with this production base, is eyeing the growing Indian market for these specialized fabrics. The company offers treated fabrics too, and is initially introducing aloe vera treated fabric in the market. Speaking at the inaugural function,
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Mr. Stephen Fieux, Plant Head said, "We are the first company in India to offer these specialized fabrics for spring mattresses. We are confident that the market can absorb 50,000 odd meters of fabric per month." He further mentioned that the fabrics produced in India would be for the Indian market, and is not a step to-
Mr. Stephen Fieux inaugurating the Department by cutting the ribbon 410
L to R: Mr.K. SenthilPrabhu,Mr. Jose,Mr. Remy Tack, Mr. Stephen Fieux&Mr. M. Sriram
wards shifting production base to a low-cost region. "If there is any surplus, which we believe will not be the case, we may think of exporting to Asia. Our production bases in USA and Europe will continue to service the Western markets." The company has 80 installed machines in its US factory. Further elaborating on this, Stephen said, "We remain competitive in all our manufacturing facilities due to the high levels of automation we have at our factories. In
Mr. Stephen Fieux demonstrating the knitting machine March - April 2012
NEWS India too, we have installed the latest technologies from Mayer & CIE." Fabric production will be in-house and its processing would be outsourced. The company is optimistic of finding the right partners in this venture, at a time when Tirupur's dyeing and processing sector is crippling back to some semblance of operations. "We will mostly use dope dyed polyester yarns for knitting the fabric. So, fabric processing will be minimal. For finishing we are looking for the right partner here, who has in place the necessary facilities to meet environmental and quality norms. We expect the power problems in the state to be resolved in the next couple of months, said Stephen.
TAI and YCMOU singns MoU The Textile Association (India) and Yashawantrao Chavan Maharashtra Open University (YCMOU), Nashik recently signed the Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) in Mumbai. Dr. Krishna Kumar Vice Chancellor YCMOU and D.R. Mehta President TAI signed the MoU on behalf of the two organizations.
GTA has already received a few orders for knitted ticking fabric, used mainly in spring and foam mattresses. The demand of Indian market for ticking fabrics for mattresses is estimated at 200 million square meters, i.e. 40 million pieces. Woven, damask ticking fabrics are largely used by most of the mattress manufacturers. Some of the knitted jacquard fabrics are used usually imported from China, Taiwan, Malaysia. Many small scale woven ticking fabric manufacturers exist in Meerut, Erode, Mumbai, etc. Mr. Patil, Director, YCMOU, Mumbai is handing over MoU to Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President - TAI
Mr. Stephen mentioned that market dynamics are the source of GTA's confidence about India. The company, in the next two months, will add four more machines to its existing capacity. And will start production of woven ticking fabrics in the next six months. In-house finishing facilities and an R&D centre in India are part of the company's future plans.
March - April 2012
Both the organizations have mutually agreed to share resources for jointly developed programmes. One such programme proposed is Bachelor of Arts (Textiles), which is likely to be launched from the academic session 2012-13. The course comprises of six certificate programmes each of six months duration. Easy to understand study material will be prepared by TAI with the help of academicians and industry experts. The course is basically designed for textile workers to upgrade their qualifications. 411
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Mr. J. B. Soma showing JTA issue to Mr. Stephen
Many textile operators and workers after joining textile mills do not get an opportunity to enhance their qualifications due to lack of time. The Open University helps such working people to go for courses on selflearning mode. The objective of this MoU is to undertake collaborative activities like designing of curriculum relevant to the personnel working in the textile industry. Also to develop academic programmes consisting of several short term modules leading to a degree programme. MoU also specifies organizing need based orientation programmes and training activities such as lectures, workshops for curriculum developers, coursewriters and media specialists.
NEWS
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Grows in India India ranks Number 1 for GOTS certifications The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) turned five years old in 2011, adding 80 new companies and another country (Kyrgyzstan) to the list of those with GOTS-certified facilities, expanding particularly in developed countries, accrediting a 14th certification organization, and receiving formal recognition by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. By year's end, 2,714 facilities in 57 countries around the world were certified to the organic apparel and textile standard including 450 dyeing facilities, more than 220 spinning, knitting, and weaving units, and approximately 160 printing and manufacturing facilities. The Top Twenty countries in terms of GOTS-certified facilities include India, Turkey, China, Pakistan, Germany, Italy, Japan, Korea (South), Bangladesh, United Kingdom, France, United States (U.S.), Hong Kong, Greece, Peru, Switzerland, Austria, Netherlands, Belgium, and Portugal. While the top four countries remained the same, Austria and Switzerland were new to the top rankings. Overall, the ten countries with the greatest increase in facilities gaining GOTS certification in 2011 were: Germany, India, U.S., Austria, Bangladesh, Switzerland, Greece, France, Belgium, and Denmark.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
India has had the highest number of GOTS certified facilities since 2009, increasing to 955 facilities in 2011. Many new companies joined hands with GOTS for sustainable and socially responsible textile production. The facilities make or distribute organic cotton and organic wool products ranging from home textiles,apparel, children wear, accessories, kitchen aprons etc. GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for the entire post-harvest processing (including spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing) of apparel and home textiles made with organic fiber (such as organic cotton and organic wool), and includes both environmental and social provisions. Key provisions
include a ban on the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), highly hazardous chemicals (such as azo dyes and formaldehyde), and child labor, while requiring social compliance management systems and strict waste water treatment practices. As all fiber certified to GOTS must already be certified organic, GOTS certification means consumers are purchasing items certified organic from field to finished product. A milestone in the increasing recognition and acceptance of GOTS was reached on May 20, 2011, when the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) released a Policy Memorandum explicitly confirming that textile products produced in accordance with GOTS may be sold as 'eorganic' in the U.S. It further clarified that the use of U.S. National Organic Program (NOP)-certified fibers and third party certification of the textile products is a prerequisite for use of the term 'eorganic' in labeling of such products. The USDA memo will also be useful internationally. "Explicit recognition of GOTS and its labeling system is surely the best way governments can regulate the organic textile sector", said Herbert Ladwig, GOTS International Working Group IWG) Coordinator. "The U.S. model is our recommendation and goal in negotiations with regulators in this sector." The GOTS IWG is made up of the Organic Trade Association (U.S.), Japan Organic Cotton Association, International Association Natural Textile Industry (Germany), and the Soil Association (UK). In addition to the five regional representatives worldwide appointed in 2010 to drive an increase in the awareness of and certification to GOTS, a new representative, Stuart McDiarmid, was appointed in 2011 to focus on growing awareness of GOTS in Australia and New Zealand. Sumit Gupta was appointed as the representative for India in March 2012. For more information on the Global Organic Textile Standard, please see www.global-standard.org. A trailer for the short film "The Global Organic Textile Standard. Ecology and Social Responsibility" is available at http://global-standard.org/information- centre/ gotsfilm.html and copies in different languages can be ordered there by textile companies, educational institutions, and relevant organizations at no cost.
www.textileassocitionindia.org 412
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NEWS
A.T.E., a solution provider from ginning to garmenting for the textile industry, has recently joined hands with Innospin Systems Pvt Ltd, a manufacturer of roving transport systems. Innospin offers cost effective, efficient and convenient solutions which are a definite enabler for enhanced productivity in spinning mills. With this tie-up, A.T.E. has further strengthened its product portfolio and can now offer affordable roving transport solutions to spinning mills. Innospin's range covers both manual and motorized roving bobbin systems. These are suitable for all makes of speed-frames and ring-frames. Customized packages are designed to suit individual floor plans and production requirements. Announcing the tie-up, Mr Amitabh Vohra, Managing Director of Innospin, said "In A.T.E. we have found the perfect partner to create business synergy for both the companies". Mr Sunil Bhatnagar, Sr. Vice President of A.T.E., commented: "Many of our customers have been asking for help in automation, which is seen as the need of the hour of the textile industry. Our key objective with this association is to give the best cost effective solutions to our customers, particularly in the face of an acute labour shortage". Through this tie-up both A.T.E. and Innospin will complement and combine their strengths to boost their customers businesses through lowering their production costs.
March - April 2012
A.T.E. unveils a new brand - TeraSpin A.T.E. has unveiled its new brand - TeraSpin - for the spinning machinery components that have come to its fold with the takeover of SKF India's textile machinery component business. TeraSpin also recently launched its website, www. teraspin.com. It is understood that the acquisition is now complete and SKF has fully transferred the technology used for manufacturing these components to A.T.E. The product range covers high speed spindles, drafting systems and top rollers for ring frames and speed frames. The manufacturing operation from SKF, Pune, will be shifted to TeraSpin's state-of-the art manufacturing facility at Ahmedabad, which is nearing completion. TeraSpin will continue to manufacture these components based on SKF technology, ensuring high product performance and durability. TeraSpin is fast gearing up to serve both India and international markets with organization set-up, systems and processes, and marketing strategies. Key personnel from different SKF functions are transferred to TeraSpin, while the remaining personnel are already recruited and have been trained at SKF India's Pune plant. TeraSpin has built-up adequate stock of all products at its Coimbatore depot to service existing customers during the intervening period of moving the manufacturing operation from Pune to Ahmedabad, to ensure uninterrupted supply of products during the period of transfer. TeraSpin hopes to build a strong and long lasting relationship with SKF India's existing and all future customers both in India and abroad with high quality products and services.
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A.T.E. ties-up with Innospin to boost spinning mills' productivity
NEWS
INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES & MACHINERYMANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION Product-cum-Catalogue "Product-cum-Catalogue Show" launched with a new concept at Hotel Harsh Palace, Gandhi Nagar, BSL Road, Bhilwara on 6th April, 2012. Key words of the concept: "more interaction between user industry and the suppliers; at door steps of the user industry; to achieve more information in shortest time" Building-up the Show:
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Press Conference was organised on 5th April, 2012 at Hotel Harsh Palace, Bhilwara, where 40 representatives were present from various print and electronic media. The President, Shri Chetan R. Ghia, stated that Shri R.P. Soni, Chairman, Sangam (India) Ltd., will be inaugurating the Show as the Chief Guest, while Shri S.N. Modani, Shri R.N. Gupta and Shri V.K. Sodani will be attending the Show as the Guest of Honour. He informed that the Show is organised in joint venture with Mewar Chamber of Commerce & Industry, who had extended a whole-hearted co-opeation and support and had invited their members to the attend the Show. He mentioned that "It is an auspicious occasion where ITAMMA's Product-cum-Catalogue Show has been clubbed with India'ITME Road Show -- a promotional activity for the forthcoming exhibition of 'ITME 2012' to be held from 2nd - 7th December, 2012 at Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai. He gave the glimpses of Indian Textile Engineering Industry and mentioned that there are about 1446 textile engineering units in the Indian industry, where 600 units are manufacturing complete textile machinery, while 850 units are making components & accessories; having built up an annual estimated capacity of over Rs.9,000 Crores. TEI provides employment directly to more than 90,000 people & indirectly to more than 2,50,000 people. Had exported to a tune of Rs.915 Crores & imported to a tune of Rs. 5,000 Crores, during 2010-11.
ning mills in India are located in Bhilwara district, supported by Weaving, Dyeing, Processing and Printing units. Majority of these industries manufacture synthetic blended yarn which accounts to 40 % of the total yarn manufactured all over India. These are the potentials of Bhilwara which has invited ITAMMA to be here once again after 5 years with this event. I am feeling proud to mention that ITAMMA's membership today is more than 450 plus & is strengthening its wings in all the fields viz. Cluster Developments, Export initiatives, R & D, E-Learning, E-Marketing, and so on; and functioning with a vision to make India, one of the Hub of Textile Accessories & Components. He added that the Union Budget has disappointed the Synthetic Textile Industry with an increase in the rate of duty to 12% for manmade fibre textile products & branded garments and made ups. As the cost of Raw material is one among the man & machine, which contributes to the production, this is the right time to go for good quality branded sustainable Accessories & Spare parts in order to maintain the production cost. And so this is the right time for this event at Bhilwara. The main concept of the Product-cum-Catalogue Show was highlighted by Shri Diven Dembla, Second VicePresident, ITAMMA, where he mentioned that it is the opportunity to both the industry -- supply and user to come on a common platform and interact with each other to satisfy their requirements of spare parts, components and machines. He mentioned that every year ITAMMA organizes such 2 shows and this is the 11th of its kind. Shri N.D. Mhatre, Dy. Director General (Tech.), ITAMMA, informed that ITAMMA had spread its wings on various activities. Recently introduced activity is extending a technical guidance to the user industry during the visits of Directorate of ITAMMA along with its members in the textile industry. He also gave an example where the scope of conserving energy upto the level of 5.6 tonnes per annum of Bunsen Gas worth Rs.3.08 lakhs per annum with a simple modification. He explained that such modifications can be taken care by ITAMMA members. The Show was inaugurated by Shri S.N. Modani by Ribbon cutting and lighting a traditional lamp.
At the same time the state of Rajasthan has a deep rooted tradition for textiles, where 69 out of 892 spin414
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NEWS
Inauguration Ceremony (Ribbon Cutting) by Mr. S.N. Modani, Managing Director, Sangam (India) Ltd., Bhilwara"
Shri V.K. Sodani, President, Mewar Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Rajasthan, gave a Special Address and his views regarding the Product-cum-Catalogue Show and congratulated ITAMMA and its members for the excellent show and the opportunity extended by them for Bhilwara Textile Industry to experience the importance and use of branded spare parts and components.
Special Address by Mr. Sanjiv Lathia, Hon. Treasurer, India - ITME Society.
tioned that this was an excellent opportunity extended by ITAMMA and its members for the Bhilwara Textile Industry to know the manufacturers, suppliers and traders of branded spare parts and components and he congratulated ITAMMA and its Office-bearers, Managing Committee Members as well as the Exhibitors for organising this wonderful Show. (Photo No.728)
Mr. Chetan R. Ghia, President, ITAMMA presenting Memento to Mr. R.N. Gupta, Advisor, BSL Ltd., Bhilwara
Shri R.L. Toshniwal, Chairman & Managing Director, Banswara Syntex Ltd., Bhilwara, assured the high attendance from Bhilwara to 'INDIA ITME 2012' exhibiton. 42 exhibitors exhibited their Product Catalogues and Services in the Show. During the Show, a programme of India-ITME Road Show was also organised during which Shri Sanjiv Lathia, Hon. Treasurer, India-ITME Society delivered a Special Address and gave the detailed information about 'INDIA ITME 2012' exhibition which is scheduled from 2nd - 7th Decmber, 2012 at Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai. Shri Sanjiv Lathia also announced 25% concession to the Bhilwara Textile Industry for participation in 'INDIA ITME 2012' exhibition as visitors. Shri R.N. Gupta, Advisor, BSL Ltd., Bhilwara, gave details about the importance of quality and maintenance of spare parts and components in the productivity and product quality of the yarn and fabric. He also menMarch - April 2012
More than 500 visitors were recorded to this Show from various reputed industries like Banswara Syntex Ltd., Nitin Spinners Ltd., RSWM Ltd., Sangam (India) Ltd., Suzuki Textiles Ltd., Shree Rajasthan Syntex Ltd. On the next day, i.e. on 7th April, 2012, a mill visit was organised to the ITAMMA members with a delegation of about 15 members at Spinning, Weaving, Processing and Denim Units of Sangam (India) Ltd. Shri S.N. Gupta explained the details of the machinery of plant and spinning unit, Shri Chandna, Weaving Head of Weaving Unit and Shri Anil Sharma, President Works of Processing Unit. Thereafter, a detail interaction was had with the above executives in the Conference Room. During the interaction, Shri S.N. Gupta mentioned that they were satisfied with the quality of spares supplied by many of the ITAMMA members and assured that any developments needed to be carried out in future will be discussed in detail with the ITAMMA members for their necessary help. He also concluded that the machines installed in Spinning Unit manufactured by European and Indian companies are far better than those presently supplied by China. 415
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NEWS
RIETER HIGHLIGHTS AT THE ITM TEXPO EURASIA 2012 Rieter is represented at the ITM Texpo Eurasia 2012 with two stands and provides competent information on all 4 spinning systems and the optimally suited fiber and spinning plant preparation. Key machines from the Rieter product range as well as end products from the 4 Rieter yarns make a visit to the Rieter exhibition stands an extremely interesting and informative experience for all.
Only by an optimal coordination of the machines from the fiber preparation and the spinning preparation up to the end spinning process, is it possible to productively and economically achieve the required yarn quality at the highest level of flexibility. Rieter offers all these processes and competences from one source. At the ITM Texpo Eurasia 2012, Rieter is presenting highlights from its current product range and clearly illustrating how Rieter as a strong, competent partner makes life easier for its customers and supports them from the initial investment discussions through to the successful operation of a spinning plant. ON THE EXHIBITION STAND NO. 213-A, HALL 2 (ERBEL) C 70 Card The C 70 high-performance card achieves excellent quality values at highest production for all yarn applications. This is based on the well-proven 1.5 m working width and maximum active carding area. Focus is placed on the economic production of carded and combed ring yarns. Precise flats guiding and innovation in the preand post-carding area allow, with the selective waste extraction, an excellent raw material exploitation and sliver quality. With the integrated grinding system IGS, the sliver quality is maintained at a high level. By utilizing draw frame modules instead of the classical can coilers, the customer has the possibility to optimally layout the process.
K 45 compact spinning machine
K 45 Compact Spinning Machine The K 45 compact spinning machine is a further development of its successful predecessor, the K 44. With machine length up to 1 632 spindles, it sets standards for ideal compacting, machine length and economy. In addition, the K 45 offers greatest flexibility for quality yarns. Its superiority over other compacting processes has been further increased by additional technical spinning solutions for extended applications. The concept for the compacting system with perforated metal cylinders generates energy and maintenance costs substantially lower than with any other compacting systems.
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The 4 Rieter yarns
Technology Corner Rieter supports customers in the choice of the right spinning process by its comprehensive technological expertise in all four spinning processes through to the textile end product. At the exhibition, Rieter provides information on the benefits of the 4 Rieter yarns by
Original Rieter parts 416
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NEWS French Textile Machinery Specialisation - Innovation - Service
means of various end products and fabric samples. Spare Parts and Retrofits
ON THE EXHIBITION STANDS 1001 & 1007, HALL 10 (SWISSMEM PAVILION) Rieter Yarns & Reference and License Customers Rieter's rich array of ultimate quality yarns stands for the competitive edge in a dynamic market. Whether ring, compact, rotor or air-jet spinning, yarn production performs with enhanced efficiency thanks to expert engineering. So Rieter customers can keep their production costs firmly in check. They also benefit from new yarn developments, aimed to preserve their flexibility in the fiercely contested yarn market. Rieter supports the marketing of all yarns spun on Rieter machines and at the ITM is presenting the current reference and license customers from whom downstream processors & yarn handlers can procure highquality yarns.
Textsmile A man receives a phone call from his doctor. The doctor says, "I have some good news and some bad news." The man says, "OK, give me the good news first." The doctor says, "The good news is, you have 24 hours to live." The man replies, "Oh no! If that's the good news, then what's the bad news?" The doctor says, "The bad news is, I forgot to call you yesterday." March - April 2012
UCMTF groups 35 specialty machinery manufacturers, often world leaders on their specific markets. The French Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association is an internationally active organization.Bruno AMELINE, the President, and Evelyne CHOLET, the Secretary General, travel worldwide to meet the textile producers and the textile media. In which sectors is the French machinery particularly strong? I would like to remind the illustrious name of JACQUARD, the French inventor of the most sophisticated weaving technology. The French machinery manufacturers have played a particularly important role in the historical development of the textile industry and will continue to do so. That's our technical tradition. For the long fibre spinning industry, we develop new techniques to improve dramatically the quality standards, the operating and maintenance costs, and on line quality controls. The innovating range includes the design of complete lines. For the twisting and texturing of yarns, we offer our customers the opportunity to develop high-tech yarns for traditional and technical applications as glass fiber or tyre cord. Heat setting processes evolve thanks to many breakthroughs and offer new functionalities to yarns, for the carpet industry particularly. Jacquard machines and dobbies developments make feasible spectacular increases in the speed of the production processes together with higher quality and more reliability. Dyeing consistency improves together with energy and water savings which, without our technical developments, would have been thought out of scope a few years ago. In new sectors of the textile industry like the nonwoven processes which are growing fast for such applications as hygiene products (diapers, wipes), geotextiles, filtration ยกK, the French machinery is also at the pinpoint of innovation. Recycling the textile materials at the end of their life cycle and transform them into new products, being environmentally friendly, is also an issue on which the French machinery manufacturers are among world leaders. In a word, the French machinery manufacturers offer the best, most reliable, most productive and energy efficient processes both for the traditional applications and for new sectors in the industry. 417
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A reliable partner supplying a complete range of wearing technology and standard parts. Original spare parts from Rieter ensure optimal working behaviour, smooth operation and additional security. Innovative developments plus high-quality products subjected to rigorous controls and checks enable Rieter to meet customers' most stringent safety and production requirements. Furthermore, Rieter's local warehouse facility will enable customers to plan their requirements and ensures quicker delivery.
NEWS
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Is there a specific commercial strategy? We have both commercial and technical traditions and French machinery manufacturers build their commercial strategies on these traditions. Blending tradition and innovation is a winning strategy. French machinery manufacturers are less and less offering standard machines but, more and more, tailor made solutions designed with their customers and partners to enable these customers to introduce new products with high added value and compete successfully in their own national market and in the open world. Personal contacts are necessary to achieve this goal: permanent agents in each country, numerous visits by experts from France, participation in events or shows. It would be too long a list to mention all the textile shows our companies will attend in 2012. To name, just a few: Megatex and Igatex, both in Lahore (Pakistan), ITM in Istanbul (Turkey) ITMA ASIA+ CITME in Shanghai (China), India ITME in Bombay (India), the various Techtextil (Russia, America, China), the JEC composite shows in France, etc. After having organized seminars in Turkey, Syria, India and Brazil recently, UCMTF organized a conference in Bandung (Indonesia) in early 2012 with the support of Ubifrance, France¡¦s agency for international development, of API, the Association of Indonesian textile, the Indonesian Ministry of Industry, the textile center of Bandung and the HSBC Bank. As we want to be partners for the local companies, we were particularly pleased that textile companies attended not only from Bandung but also from Jogjakarta, Samarang, Solo, Surabaya. You can see that on each national market, we go as deep as possible into the roots of the local textile industry. Which services can you offer to so many customers in so remote places? Each company has organized the best service to help his customers get the best productivity from their equipment with on line service, quick delivery of spare parts, etc. It is a key request that French manufacturers consider as an essential part of any deal. We are SME¡¦s, and organizing such a service was a real challenge. We have done it country by country, with our own experts and with local representatives. Being as close as possible to our customers is part of our genetics, of our DNA. I would like to add, concerning spare parts, that, as an organization, UCMTF works to increase the awareness of our customers on risks associated with not using original spare parts and to help our members organize the best logistics to deliver them. 418
Can you tell us about the current state of your industry? Our activity has rebounded since 2010 but has not fully recovered the best levels it achieved before the financial and economic crisis which hit mostly North American and European markets. ITMA 2011 in Barcelona was a very active and professional fair. Textile producers came with very interesting projects and many have turned into orders but quite a number have not yet. I believe this is mainly due to the increasing financing difficulties. The textile producers are often family run companies looking for long term growth and not for short term profits. They want to open new markets or develop existing ones, they want to optimize their productions processes and have very well planned investments projects. On the other hand they can be constrained by the economic slowdown in Europe and, more recently, even in China. The United States now seems to be on a growth path again which may contribute to boost the global economy. The other obstacle is the credit crunch, we European have been dealing with it for quite a while and therefore have found creative solutions. All together most of our activity is now secured for 2012 but, visibility is still limited into 2013. For the long term, we remain quite optimistic as we trust our strategy is right; our industry will continue to innovate and its structure will evolve. Reorganization in the machinery industry has been quite active recently all over the world, in France too. Can you tell us how UCMTF participates in the long term strategy of your members? Concerning R and D, UCMTF is active promoting the energy savings that the textile production processes can favour. Concerning our marketing strategy, I already explained our collective approach of some strategic markets. As an association we promote our members participation at the major textile shows and work closely with the textile media. Another important objective of our association is to promote our industry among the engineering and management schools. For that purpose we organize a Forum and finance an UCMTF prize through the prestigious ''Challenge ITECH''.. It is important to remind that France is the 6th textile machinery exporter worldwide. Together the 35 manufacturers annual exports exceed 1 billion Euros (1.3 billion USD) UCMTF is a member of CEMATEX, owner of the ITMA brand. The web site www.ucmtf.com is a hub for the French machinery manufacturers. March - April 2012
NEWS Thailand is the ideal market venue for you all to explore more in theemerging ASEAN market.”, Mr. Adul Chotinisakorn, Executive Director of Thai Trade Center, Mumbai added.
Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) organised a road show to Mumbai, India, in order to promote the country’s exhibition industry. The bureau has met up with Indian travel agents and trade associations with an aim to encourage more Indian businessmen to attend trade shows in Thailand with its supporting policy of 100 A-Head program. Mrs. supawan Teerarat, Director of Exhibitions at TCEB, said “Thailand geographically serves as a business platform to ASEAN market which opens up to unparalleled business opportunities. Thailand has been a residence of international trade shows, some of which have become flagship exhibitions in the region. Thailand’s exhibitions industry continues to lead its neighbours in ASEAN with a high record of 85 international trade shows organised in 2011.” In 2011, Thailand saw an increase in number of Indian visitors, the second rank of overseas visitors who attend international trade shows in Thailand. The trade volume between India and Thailand grew by 23 per cent last year, reaching around 8.1 billion US dollars in value. This growth is not only beneficial to both countries, but it is also an important linkage of business opportunities to the member countries of ASEAN and BIMESTEC. India will be able to gain significant advantages from ASEAN as a single market, with a low-cost labour production base, a free flow of goods and services as well as free flow of capital. After the conglomeration of ASEAN countries unites to form the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) by 2015, Thailand is expected to be a gateway and business platform in ASEAN which will boast a competitive advantage for India to access Indochina, which has the buying power of a population of more than 500 million people. “Since ASEAN Economic Community or AEC will be in force by 2015, we also encourage relevant parties to make use of AEC privileges of free trade Agreement and the improvement of transport networks and all logistic cross-border connections. With the strategic location at the heart of ASEAN, exhibition platform in March - April 2012
Indian visitors can look to maximise their business reach in printing & packaging, gems & jewellery, textile, and plastic industry through Thailand’s key international exhibitions, including ProPak Asia, Bangkok Gems & Jewellery, InterPlas Thailand, Bangkok International Gift Fair and Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2012, and Garment Manufacturing Expo. Countless business opportunities, world-class MICE infrastructure, professional service and a myriad of destinations are the four key distinct attributes of Thailand as a preferred host of mega events under Believe in Thailand, TCEB’s worldwide campaign. Additionally, TCEB’s exhibition has designed tailored made visitor promotion, ,100 A-HEAD,,, to attract group visitors from Indian’s Travel agents, trade associations, federations and chambers of commerce to visit trade shows in Thailand. The promotion provides US$ 100 for bringing in a group of at least 15 visitors to attend trade exhibitions in Thailand and is intended to encourage group trade visitors from India to create business relationships and networking between local trade association and chamber of commerce in Thailand. According to the 7‘h Trade Fair Industry in Asia 2011 report by The Global Association of the Exhibition Industry (UFI), Thailand in 2010 played host to the greatest number of international exhibitions in ASEAN. Additionally, Thailand’s leadership of the ASEAN exhibitions industry also extends to other aspects, such as exhibition space, which combines to be up to 432,500 square meters in 2010, and average fair size, totalling approximately 6,092 square meters per exhibition. Thailand has been also ranked as number one in terms of spaces sold and being the most profitable market in ASEAN, with estimated annual revenue of about 132 million US dollars. In 2012, Thailand is expected to welcome approximately 750,000 MICE visitors to the country, generating expected revenues of 60,120 million baht or 1,940 million US dollars whereby accumulated to exhibitions and trade fairs of 80,000 visitors, generating expected revenues of 7,929 million baht or 255 million US dollars. For more information about available incentive programs and Thailand exhibition event calendar, please visit www.tceborth/exhibitions. 419
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TCEB organises road show to Mumbai aiming to attract Indian businessmen to Thailand’s exhibitions
NEWS ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 - an indispensable event for the textile industry The global market for textile machinery is projected to reach US$20.75 billion by 2015. The Asia Pacific region is expected to dominate as the single largest market, as local governments play a pivotal role in developing initiatives to boost textile machinery trade and bolster sales and investments. The Asian region is forecasted to emerge by 2015 as one of the fastest growing markets, spurred on by such initiatives. In China, for example, one of the priorities under the government's 12th Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015) is to raise the craftsmanship, techniques and equipment to reach the international level for textile and other industry sectors. Besides the development and application of high-technology fibres, energysaving, emission-reduction and environment-friendly technologies will also be the focus for China's textile industry in the coming years. Against such a backdrop, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 - Asia's leading-edge business platform, will be held from 12 -16 June 2012 at Shanghai, China. Being a combined show & a milestone event it features the unique strengths of the ITMA brand and China's most important textile event CITME. This strategic move to combine the two shows inta one mega high-quality event finds strong support by all 9 CEMATEX European textile machinery associations. CTMA (China Textile Machinery Association) and 1TMA (Japan Textile Machinery Association). The salient features of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 are
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A huge showcase of cutting-edge solutions for textile makers • Strong support of all the major Trade Associations from around the world • Some 100,000 trade visitors from all sectors of the global textile industry • Over 1, 300 exhibitions expected to participate • Over 130,000 sqm of exhibition space • Exhibition showcased by product category for the convenience of visitors • Stringent control in force to protect Intellectual Property The previous staging of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 saw 1171 exhibitors from 28 countries and 82000 visitors from 99 countries. 420
TIFAC-DELHI VALIDATION WORKSHOP A Validation workshop of TECHNOLOGY GAP ANALYSIS STUDY on Readymade Garment Cluster of Okhla (Delhi). NCR was organized on 27-2-2012 at India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road, New Delhi from 600 p.m. onwards. Honorable Shri N.K Sharma, Chairman, MSME TIFACApex committee, Shri Laxmi Dass, Member, MSME TIFAC-Apex committee, Dr. Rishi Jamdagni, Director, TIT&S,Bhiwani, Shri R.C Kesar, Director-General, OGTC, Shri I\1.K.Mehra, Director, OGTC and other members of OGTC, Shri Pankaj Mallik, Vice-President TAI (Delhi), and other representatives of TAI (Delhi), Shri Puneet Chawla, Vice-President, TITAN (Delhi), and other members of TITAN, Shri Prashant Agarwal, Joint President, WAZIR Advisors and other members of WAZIR Advisors, Shri Chandan Saha, Member of TANTU and other members of TANTU, and Many representatives of Garment manufacturers, exporters of Okhla, Delhi and NCR, Shri K.N.Chatterjee, Shri Suman Bhattacharyya, Shri M.K.Dutta, Shri Sanjay Sharma, Shri Tarun Grover and PG/UG students from TIT&S, Bhiwani and many delegates and participants were present on the occasion. While welcoming all the dignitaries in the dais. Dr. Rishi P Jamdagni thanked MSME TIFAC for sponsoring the entire project, which is a rare feat of TIT&S in conducting such study. He also mentioned that it was a highly educative and learning experience to all graduate and post-graduate students of TIT&S under the leadership of Shri K.N.Chatterjee and other faculty members of TIT&S. He also stressed that Shri R.C.Kesar and Shri M.K.Mehra of OGTC and Shri Prashant Aggarwal of Wazir Advisors have also guided to the faculty and team members for the study. ATDC, Okhla and Noida and the manufacturers and exporters of OKHLA/NCR have also supported the study. Dr. Jamdagni also expressed sincere thanks to all speakers for sharing their views. He mentioned special thanks to Shri R.C Kesar and other members of OGTC, WAZIR Advisors and representatives' from industry for rendering their kind support during the survey and sharing their views on the Technology Gap Analysis report on Ready made garment cluster at OKHLA. Delhi and NCR. Further it is needless to mention that an event like this can not happen overnight. It requires planning and birds eye on all the details. TIT&S is fortunate enough to be backed by a team of highly motivated and dedicated colleagues. March - April 2012
NEWS
Shri Prashant Agarwal, Joint President, WAZIR Advisors, presented before the participants about the present scenario of RMG industries in the world vis-a-vis India. He also stressed the need of CFC in order to make the RMG industries of OKHLA/NCR competitive. Shri R.C Kesar, Director-General, Okhla Garment and Textile Cluster, while lauding the huge task of carrying out the study by TIT&S, stressed that there is need of positive outlook from the Industries for bridging the technology gap. He also mentioned that there is also gap in the management, processes, etc. The industries should adopt the best management practices like L2ai1 MAIlUIaCTUr1I1L’. Six SiOna. etc. Shri M.K Mehra, Director, Okhla Garment and Textile Cluster, while praising TIT&S faculty members and the students who did the study, mentioned that although there are technology gaps but the gaps can be bridged by way of collective approach from the Institute and industries with the Government support. He also advocated the need of CFC in this cluster for bridging the gap. Shri Pankaj Mallik, Vice-President, TAI (Delhi) briefed the role of Textile Committe for extending the support in this study and hoped that a CFC will be developed in and around Delhi as an intervention plan for bridging the Technology Gap. Shri Chandan Saha from TANTU, while extending the support for CFC mentioned the difficulties that the cluster had faced in early days and suggested some measures for the uplifting this cluster which is a source of export-earning. Shri Puneet Chawla, Vice-President, TITAN (Delhi), informed the audience about the role of TITAN and March - April 2012
expressed his happiness about the outcome of the study and mentioned that TITAN Would provide all kinds of help and assistance in developing CFC for the benefit of the RMG industries in the cluster. Shri Laxmi Dass, Member, y1S\tE TIFAC-Apex committee. while giving his suggestions about the study and hoped that after incorporating the points, the outcome of the findings would be more beneficial to the RMG industries of the cluster. Honorable Shri N.K Sharma. Chairman. VISy-1E TIFAC-Apex committee, praised the team members of the study group who did a splendid job in making the report as a most authentic and suggested that present industries should look forward for value addition and product diversification. A brain-storming session amongst the entrepreneurs/ industrialists was made in which they participated actively followed by a dinner and net-working.
Mr. D.R. Mehta
Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President, TAI to deliver keynote address at TI Conference in Malaysia
The 88th Textile Institute (TI) World Conference 2012 (TIWC 2012) is scheduled at Shah Alam, Selganor, Malaysia from May 15-17, 2012. Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President, The Textile Association (India) will be one of the key-note speakers at the TWIC among other key-note speakers at the conference include: Dato' Professor Jimmy Choo OBE; Dr. Dieter Eichinger, Lenzing AG, Bussiness Unit, Textile Fibers; Dr. Dinsdale is currently Chairman of Trigon Diligence Ltd. The theme of TIWC 2012 is 'Bridging Research, Innovation and Enterprise'. The TIWC 2012 is a platform that gathers researchers, academics and the industries related to the areas of textiles, clothing and footwear. The conference aims is to provide a significant platform for industry and researchers around the world to meet, discuss, share and disseminate findings for future collaborations. Delegates will benefit from a wide range of plenary speakers, invited speakers and contributed talks from local and international presenters, along with poster sessions. 421
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Shri K.N.Chatterjee. Chief Project Co-ordinator of the study presented the findings of the study. He mentioned that there are technology gaps in the Okhla/ NCR cluster of RMG industries. He also briefed the SWOT analyvsis of the RN1G cluster and presented the Intervention plan to bridge the gap. He also concluded that after analyzing the feedback- from the industries, a Common Facility Centre is required for the benefit of the industries in which under one roof all facilities like Training, Testing, Sampling, R&D, vAD/ CAiYf. Design studio, Resource centre, Job-work facilities. etc would be available. He also proposed a AC Mobile Van equipped with related infrastructure facilities for providing door-to-door services to the industries.
NEWS
A.T.E. ties up with ZIMMER AUSTRIA for high production digital printing systems for textile, carpet bathmat and blankets A.T.E. has entered the world of digital printing with a tie-up with the world leader Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH (ZIMMER AUSTRIA). ZIMMER AUSTRIA with sites in Klagenfurt and Kufstein manufacturers a range of machinery for textile and carpet finishing covering digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating, steaming, washing, and drying. A.T.E. will work for Zimmer's digital printing systems for textiles and carpets, which shall be handled by its processing and carpet machinery division respectively, for the markets of India and Bangladesh.
ZIMMER AUSTRIA offers all elements out of one hand: complete lines, high-quality, reliable and safe software. In addition to the complete application knowhow, Zimmer has a show room having the facility of conducting digital printing trials at Kufstein. While Zimmer has established its leadership position in case of carpet printing, its recent introduction of Colaris for textile printing has been well accepted by the market as is testified by the growing number of satisfied customers across the globe. As the printing market is shifting from conventional technologies to digital, due to change in taste of consumers, these machines will play a key role in the Indian textile printing industry. For printers who are looking for high production digital textile printing machine with flexibility for short and long runs, the Colaris has become the right choice since one can easily print up to 200 linear meter/hour. The Colaris which was exhibited at the ITMA 2011 Barcelona demonstrated its production capacity and thus won the appreciation of most of the visitors at the Zimmer Austria stall. In the case of carpet/bathmat digital printing system, ZIMMER AUSTRIA offers the ChromoJET digital printing machine series. This is a unique printing system suitable for medium to heavy substrates mainly for carpets, rugs, carpet tiles and bathmats with no limitation of design repeat up to commonly used 16/24 colors. This technology is used by all major printed carpet producers across the globe. The first machine with 4000 mm width has already been sold in the north India market to an established company.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Textsmile Two boys were arguing when the teacher entered the room. The teacher says, "Why are you arguing?" One boy answers, "We found a ten dollor bill and decided to give it to whoever tells the biggest lie." "You should be ashamed of yourselves," said the teacher, "When I was your age I didn't even know what a lie was." The boys gave the ten dollars to the teacher. 422
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NEWS
The New Textile Policy Government of Maharashtra The Maharashtra Cabinet has cleared the textile policy which aims to bring in investment to the tune of Rs. 40,000 crores and create employment opportunity for around 11 lakh people. The highlight of the policy is that it provides for 12.5 per cent interest subsidy and 10 per cent capital subsidy for new co-operative and private sector textile units in the cotton growing belts of Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. Concessions under the policy will be applicable to all areas concerned with the textile industry like cotton ginning and processing, weaving / knitting, readymade garment manufacturing, processing of fibre / yarn / fabrics / garments, modernisation / expansion and rehabilitation of existing textile units, textile parks, and skill development activities, among others. Similarly, in the rest of the State, the interest subsidy is 10.5 per cent which includes five per cent from the Centre and four-
five per cent from the State industrial policy, besides the recent provision. The State Textiles Minister, Mr. Mohammed Arif Naseem Khan, said the policy aims at development of the cotton growing belt of the State and welfare of the farmers in the region. The policy also proposes insurance, housing and medical health scheme for handloom and powerloom workers. "Because of the subsidies, the State exchequer will face a burden of Rs. 450 crores every year." According to him, out of the 22 lakh powerloom units in the country, Nagpur, Bhiwandi, Malegaon and Solapur districts of Maharashtra have around 10 lakh units. "The Government had released loans to the tune of Rs. 1,919 crores to as many as 123 co-operative textile units in the State up to the 10th Five-Year Plan (200207), of which only Rs. 54 crores has been repaid," he added. At present, as many as 59 co-operative textile units and 110 privately-run textile units are functioning in the State.
Yashwantrao Chavan Maharashtra Open University, Nashik Dnyangangotri, Near Gangapur Dam, Nashik- 422 222 (MH) Phone: (0253) 2231480, 2230171, Fax: (0253) 2231480 In Association with
The Textile Association (India), Central Office, Pathare House, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 (MH) Phone: (022) 24461145, Fax: (022) 24474971 Announces an Innovative programme in Textiles Duration : 3 Years Medium : Hindi / English / Marathi Eligibility: 12th Passed or Passed the preparatory programme of YCMOU Features: • Degree programme is divided into six certificate programmes each of six months duration. • Easy to understand Study Material • Attendance in contact sessions is not mandatory • Course best suited for Textile workers For details interested may contact School of Continuing Education Cell of the university on above address. March - April 2012
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B.A (Textile)
NEWS
Launch of website by the Textile Department, Govt. of Maharashtra The Textile Department, Government of Maharashtra launched their website
which is truly a Dynamic Textile Policy." He appealed the industrialists for huge investments in the Textile industry to get benefitted from this policy. He further added that almost 80% of the cotton grown in the state is processed by other states and hence other states are getting benefitted due to its value addition. The new textile policy is aimed to get these benefits to the state itself. To maintain the balance in development additional incentives have been offered for investments in the non-developed regions of the state such as Vidarbha, Marathwada and Khandesh. He also reiterated that the state will soon achieve self sufficiency in terms of electricity, water and infrastructure facilities. The implementation of this policy is likely to attract investments to the tune of 400 billion INR and generate 1.1 million new jobs.
Hon, Shri Pruthviraj Chavan, C.M.launching the website
Hon. Textile Minister in his address assured the industrialists that the implementation of the dynamic policy will have no beaurocratic hurdles and all incentives and benefits will be given through banks. General expectation for speedy implementation of any policy is single window system for clearances, however he proposed Zero window system for benefit of all. The minister also claimed that the government had so far been providing a slew of financial incentives to the states cooperative textile mills, but the new textile policy would imply extension of capital and interest subsidy to private textile mill developers as well. This website will be instrumental in getting timely information regarding this policy and the stake holders of this policy will benefit from this website immensely.
www.mahatextile.maharashtra.gov.in on 1st May, 2012 at Sahayadri Guest House in Mumbai. On this momentous occasion, the welcome address was given by Shri Sunil Porwal, IAS, Principal Secretary, Textiles, Government of Maharashtra. The Chief Guest was Mr. Mohd, Arif (Naseem) Khan, the Hon. Textile Minister. The inaugural and launching of website was done by Mr. Prithviraj chavan, the Hon. Chief Minister. He said, "To give impetus to the Textile Industry in the state, Government of Maharashtra has introduced a policy
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The Vote of thanks was done by Mr. Samir K. Biswas, IAS, Managing Director, Maharashtra State Textiles Corporation Ltd. Textile Commissioner A B Joshi, Mr. M D Taksade, Central Bank, Urvi Piramal from Piramal Group, Mr. Nitin Kasliwal from SKNL Group, Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka of Alok Industries, Mr. Jhunjhunwala of Bhilwara Group, Mr. Jaydeep Jamkhedkar of Oswal Group are some among many others that were present on this occasion. Shri Sunil Porwal, Principal Secretary, Textiles, The Chief Guest Mr. Mohd, Arif (Naseem) Khan, Hon. Textile Minister and Mr. Prithviraj chavan, the Hon. Chief Minister. 424
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NEWS
Growing Demand For Italian Textile Machinery Italy organizes textile technology workshops in Mumbai & Ichalkaranji
India is the world's second largest market in terms of value for textile machinery imports (amounting to 1.11 billion euros). Italian technology is especially in demand. In fact, 133 million euros worth of Italian textile machinery was sold to India in 2011, a 19% increase compared to the previous year.
Prof.(Dr.) M.D.Teli ,Dean, ICT(formerly UDCT)
"Our companies have been observing developments in India for some time now," states Sandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, "Business opportunities have multiplied, particularly in recent years, owing in part to the incentives set up by the Indian authorities to promote the modernization of local industry." Prof.(Dr.) M.D.Teli, Dean, ICT(formerly UDCT), while giving key note address said, the coming decade is going to be attracting customers on Sustainability issues and as they go on dominating the brands, country like India will have to orient its textile operations in line with Sustainable Textile production. It is here some of the Machineries from Italy, being presented are worth looking at, as far as modernization of Indian Textile Industry is concerned. March - April 2012
To meet this growing demand for Made in Italy textile machinery, ACIMIT organized these two important workshops which received an overwhelming response from the Indian textile industry. There were more than 125 Indian delegates in Mumbai and 150 delegates in Ichalkaranji. During this event 8 Italian machinery manufacturers presented their latest technology proposals. The Italian machinery manufacturers who were present during the workshops are: CS Automazione, Fimat, Flainox, Itema, Jaeggli Meccanotessile, PTMT, Smit & Testa. The objective of the mission was to cover WEAVING, DYEING & FINISHING sectors. The workshops, organized by Acimit, are part of the "Machines Italia in India" program are financed by the Ministry for Economic Development, which has entrusted the organization to the Federmacchine group (the Federation of Italian Manufacturers of Capital Goods). "Machines Italia in India" is an initiative aimed at supporting the internationalization activities of businesses in the sector, in an area that is currently experiencing some of the most intense economic development anywhere in the globe. Background on Italian textile machinery industry and ACIMIT: ACIMIT represents an industrial sector comprising around 300 companies (employing close to 12,400 people) and producing machinery for an overall value of about 2.7 billion euros, with exports mounting to 80% of total sales. The quality of Italian textile technology is evidenced by the high number of countries in which Italian machinery is sold: around 130 countries worldwide. The knowledge partners for these events in India are RARE TECH PROJECTS PVT. LTD. (www.raretech.org) who offers specialized solutions in organizing Industry specific seminars/workshops, B2B and collective fair participations. 425
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, organized two important workshops in Mumbai on May 8 and on May 10 at Ichalkaranji.. This initiative was aimed at Italy's response to the strong demand for technology by the Indian textile industry.
NEWS
The 88th Textile Institute World Conference 2012 in Malaysia Organized by the Textile Institute and the Universiti Teknologi MARA (Uitm)
The ice breaker was the introductory cocktail party and the opening with the Interview with Dato Professor, Jimmy Choo OBE, notable footwear designer who emphasized on determination, diligence and hardwork as the key to success.
15TH to 17TH MAY 2012
The key note speakers Dr. Dieter Eichinger, Vice President and General Manager of Business Unit Textile Fibers, gave a keynote on the Vision of Cellulose Fibers in 2020. Man-made Cellulose Fibers have stepped out of a low performing alternative to cotton to an attractive raw material for sustainable as well comfort reasons. Looking into macroeconomics as well as innovation platforms there will be new opportunities for specifically TENCEL速 in new applications.
The 88th Textile Institute World Conference 2012 (TIWC 2012) was a forum that gathered researchers, academics and industries related to areas of textiles, clothing and footwear. The Textile Institute World Conference 2012 was hosted by the Textile Technology Programme, Faculty of Applied Sciences (FSG) and the Faculty of Art & Design (FSSR), Universiti Teknologi MARA (UiTM), Malaysia. The conference took place from 15th to 17thMay 2012 at the Concorde Hotel, Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia. The conference provided an important platform for industry and researchers around the world to meet, discuss, share and disseminate findings for future collaborations. Delegates benefitted from a range of plenary speakers, invited speakers and participant delegates who contributed to the talks from local and international backgrounds, along with poster sessions. The conference was an attempt in bridging research, innovation and enterprising spirits among the participants. The conference also provided opportunities for participants to travel to the tropical equator line to experience Malaysian multiracial/cultural society and observe the county in building a high income society for 2020.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The TI is the only international organization for the textiles, clothing and footwear industries. It was founded in England in 1910 and incorporated by a Royal Charter in 1925. Its members consist of individuals and organizations from up to 80 countries. The main objective of its establishment is to provide a platform for learning, recognizing achievements, rewarding excellence and to disseminate information. UiTM is Malaysia's largest institution of higher learning in terms of size and population that has expanded nationwide with 12 branch campuses, three satellite campuses, 9 city campuses and 21 affiliated colleges. With this vast network and a workforce of 17,000, the university offers more than 300 academic programmes in a conducive and vibrant environment. It is also home to some 172,000 students. The University is committed to helping students achieve the highest scholarly level and to prepare them for careers in public and professional practice in various fields. 426
Dr. Peter Dinsdale is a specialist in the fibre, textile and garment sectors. He spoke from his 48 year career that encompassed a wide range of international experiences in development, production and marketing across most textile processes and all major fibres. He recently retired from being Principal Industry Specialist (Textiles) at the World Bank/IFC where he worked on the selection, appraisal and supervision of a variety of fibre and textile investments projects in emerging market.
Mr. D.R. Mehta, delivering his keynote address
Mr. D. R. Mehta (National President, Textile Association of India): In his significant keynote address on Textile Competitiveness in an Integrated World, expressed his views of the textile industry being the most sustainable industry and a major economic force across the globe. His views were a contribution of his 43 years working experience in India & overseas in textiles, embroideries. He also expressed the need for International Textile Organizations such as Textile Association (India) and Textile Institute to work in collaboration in order to contribute to the growth of the Textile industry in the world scenario. TAI is the foremost largest textile professional body of India and was established in 1939 with 126 founding members. Today March - April 2012
the Association has more than 22,000 members with 27 affiliated units, spread throughout the length and breadth of the country. The association is now marching towards it's Platinum Jubilee.
Mr. D.R. Mehta is receiving the memento
This was followed by Parallel Sessions on 16th and 17th May2012 that covered a gamut of areas in Textiles and Clothing as listed below: Dyeing Finishing & Printing : Antibacterial Textiles using Antibacterial Dyes, Effect of Different Soil and Stain Repellent Finishes Upon The Tensile Behaviour of Cotton Fabric, Improvement of Efficiency of Nanoparticle Fixation on the Surface of Lignocellulosic Fabrics, Improving Optical Brightness of Cellulosic Textiles with ?-cyclodextrin, Preparation of Flame-retardant Cotton Fabric Using PPI Dendrimer NanoStructure, Screen-printed Multilayer Meander Heater on Polyester Cotton, Substantivity and Reactivity of Reactive dyes for Cotton having 2-Chloro-4-Alkylamino and 2-Chloro-4-Alkylthio as Reactive Groups, Synthesis of some Azo Disperse Dyes from 1-Substituted 2Hydroxy-6-Pyridone Derivatives and their Colour Assessment on Polyester Fabric, Development of Novel Chitosan Gel Beads for the Removal of Synthetic Dyes, Study of Laser effect on Decolourisation of Dyed Cotton Sample, Dye Absorption Modified of Cotton Fabric Using PPI Dendrimer Nano-Structure, Textile Based Bio-Conversion Media for Ammonia/Water BioRemediation. Clothing Manufacturing : Ultrasonic Seaming in Fashion Clothing, Consumer Understanding and Evaluation of Technical Shell Garments, Methods to Better Understanding of Behaviour of Seams in Apparel Fabrics, Influence Of Fusing On Wool And Wool Blend Fabric. Marketing & Management : A Critical Evaluation of the Potential for a Luxury Fashion Market in Sanya, Hainan Province, China Antecedents of Organisational Resilience in economic crises - an Empirical Study of March - April 2012
Swedish Textile and Clothing SME, How Colour Affects Garment Sell through Rates in the UK, Impact of it and Communication Revolution on Indian Fashion. Technical Textiles : Influence of Extreme Flexion on the Thermal Properties of Laminated Aerogel Blankets, Application of Electrospun Gas Diffusion Nanofibre-membranes in the Determination of Dissolved Carbon, Electrical Actuation Performance of Shape Memory Alloy Friction Spun Yarn, Encapsulation of PCM for Thermo-Regulating Fabric, Geometrical and Probabilistic Models of Nonwoven Fabrics - Some Results, Modelling Puncture Impactor Shapes Effects on Plain Woven Fabric, The Effect of Graphene Nanoplatelets on the Mechanical Properties of Lyocell Fibres, Analysis of Compressibility Behaviour in Multilayer Spacer Fabrics Base on Van Wyk Theory. Healthcare & Medical : Thermal Comfort of Footwear Insole Materials for People with Diabetes, Application of Wool in Medical Textiles, Development of Hygienic Socks for Patients with Tinea Pedis (Athlete's Foot) through Microencapsulation Technology, Mechanical Behaviour of Knitted Compression Arm Sleeves. Sustainability : Sustainable Developments in Printing Cotton Fabric With Indigo Peracetic Acid, A New Emerging Environment Friendly Pre-treatment Agent for Flax, Development of Novel, Environment Friendly and Sustainable Finishing System for Cotton, Electrochemical Treatment of Textile Waste Water with Shielded Platinised Titanium under UV Light, Environmental Benign Processing of Green Cellulosic Fibres, Innovating Sustainable Fashion Practices: UK and Bangladesh Case Studies, Push And Pull - Strategies to improve Sustainable Practice, Removal of Reactive Red 120 from Aqueous Media using Polyaniline/Silica Nanocomposite, Sustainable Colour for Lyocell through Design, Closing the Loop: A Case Study of Environmental Sustainability in Clothing Supply Chains, Degradable Behaviours of PLA Nonwovens by UV-ray Irradiation, Sustainable Minimalism; Little Green will do the rest. Education & Training : Active Learning and the Development of Employability Skills for Apparel Students, Education and Training of Skills of Pattern Making and Construction to Aspiring Candidates for Apparel Industry, Trade Secrets: Facilitating Knowledge Transfer within the Emerging-designer Sector of the New Zealand Fashion Industry. Design, Fashion & Footwear : Deriving Functionally Comfortable Garment Designs for Upper Body Movements in Active Motion, The African Fashion Scene: 427
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
NEWS
NEWS The developments in Nigerian Fashion Design (20012011), Technical Innovation & Creative Solutions for Malaysian Batik, Impact Resistant Materials and Design Principles for Sportswear, Relationships between Hip Circumference and Hip Thickness in Women's Trousers, Predictors of Menswear Design Preferences in Terms of Physical and Psychological Dimensions, Making Indigenous Ghanaian Symbols A Global Brand In Textile Surface Designing, Development of a Sizing System for Ghanaian Women For The Production Of Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Textile Performance from a Costumiers' Perspective- Working with Major Sports Events, The Use Of Heat Setting as a Surface Design Technique for Polyester Fabrics and it's Applications in Commercial Lifestyle Products. Smart Fabrics : Creative Applications of Smart Technologies for Wellness, Fashion Design, and Dance, A Method for Screen Printing Conductive Tracks on Textiles, Inkjet Printed Flexible Antenna on Fabric for Wearable Applications, Flexible Piezoelectric Materials for Smart Textile Application, Smart Garments for Health Monitoring, Sensing, and GPS Assisted Personal Guiding for the Military and Consumer Market, Fabricating the Conductive Polyurethane/MWCNTs Nanofibres via Electrospinning, Embedding Design in the Process of Communication of Functionality in Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology to the Active Ageing Consumer
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Composites : Fabrication and Characterisation of Jute/ Poly(Butylene Succinate) Bio-composites, Preparation of Polyurethane Nanocomposites Reinforced with Cellulose Nanoparticles from Waste Cotton Fibbers, Pla/ Ramie Green Composites - A Novel Processing Technique, An Investigation of Mechanical Properties of Multi-Axial Fabrics-Waste Newspaper Reinforced Polyester Composites. Natural Fibres : New Natural Luxurious Women'swear Merino Wool, Wool/Silk And Wool/Bamboo Viscose Woven Worsted Fabrics, Effects of Functional Finishing on Characteristics of Cotton fabrics Using Garad tree (Acacia nilotica) Extracts, The Dyeing Properties of Natural Dyes Extracted From Xylocarpus Moluccensis Heartwood Using Pressurised Hot Water Extraction Method, Degumming of Agave Cantala Fiber Using Microbes (Green Degumming) and Economic Review. Personal Protective Equipment : Designing a Sustainable UV Protected and Cooling Knitted Fabric for Sun Protection, Effect of Stitching and Additional Layers on Puncture Resistance of Twaron Fabric, Response of Unidirectional Coated Fabrics at Slow and 428
High Speed Impact Penetration, Physical Characterisation of Kevlar XP Aramid and its Interdependence with Hard Armour Ceramic Plates Future Trends & Visions : Indian Handloom Sector - Growth and Future Prospects, Textile Research in Process: 21st Century Approaches to Textile Design Innovation, Translating the Hybrid Methodologies and Practical outputs of Smart Textile-oriented Research, in Clothing for the Growing Ageing Market, for the Benefit of all Stakeholders Historical : Paisley - An Irresistible Motif, "Its Journey, Handwoven Kota Doria Textiles - Working with Traditions, Preserving and Renovating Textile Artefacts for Sustainable Textile Development in Yorubaland: A Panorama of some Indigenous Woven Fabrics. Textile Manufacturing : Simulation of Warp Tension For High Speed Looms, 3D Woven Structures and their Manufacturing Technologies Testing : How Closely do Hospital Staff follow NHS Guidelines on Laundering Procedures? The Effect of Copper Sulphate Ratios on Physical Parameters of Cotton and Polyester Woven Fabrics. There were posters presented indicating the research findings of studies conducted by academicians. Dr. Vishaka Karnad presented a research paper through a creatively designed poster (co-authored with Research scholar Tiewlyngksiar Lyngdoh) on "Designing Innerwear using Cotton Lycra Blends Treated with Aloe Vera, Vit. E and Jojoba Oil". It was well received by the delegates. The Conference Dinner was the culmination of the Awards Ceremony wherein the ATI and FTI fellowships were awarded. Noteworthy to mention was that a Gold Medal was awarded to Dr. Surinder Tandon of New Zealand for his exemplary contribution to Wool Research Association. The post conference visit was organized on 18th May 2012 to the significant tourist spots of Malaysia including the Merdeka square, Petronas, Central Market and Batu Caves. The conference has created memorable experiences in minds of visitors and has established relationships and networking systems due to the fruitful interactions amongst the participants. (Compiled by Mr. D. R. Mehta, President, Textile Association of India, Mumbai and Dr. (Smt.) Vishaka Karnad, Assistant Professor, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan and Chairperson, Ad-hoc Board of Studies in Home Science, University of Mumbai) March - April 2012
SUBJECT INDEX
Subject EDITOTIAL: • Textile World: Full of Dynamism and Optimism • Rising India • Digital Printing • Kya Desh Ubal Raha Hai ??? • Corporate Substainability: Key o True Prosperity • Good Days Are Here Again
Authors
Issue Page
R.V. Adivarekar R.V. Adivarekar R.V. Adivarekar R.V. Adivarekar M.D. Teli R.V. Adivarekar
1 2 3 4 5 6
2 76158 158 222 280 364
CHEMICAL PROCESSING • Micro encapsulation : Revolution in Modern Textile Ea
C.R. Meena, K. Avinash, P.B. Tayade & J.B. Soma
5
300
A. J. Shukla
1
32
P. Kandha Vadivu, C. Vigneswaram, T. Ramchandran & Geetha Manohari
3
181
R.S. Tomar
4
225
Ajinkya Khot & Chandrakant Lende P. Temani, D. B. Shakyawar, L. Ammayappan, V. Goyal & S. A. Wani Arijit Chakraborty, Prasanti Kumar Saha, Kunal Singha, Amit Sengupta and Shubham Thakur R.V. Adivarekar, N. Kanoongo, M. P. Nerurkar & M. M. Joshi Madhura Nerurkar, Jyoti Vidhyanathan, R.V. Adivarekar & Zarine Bhathena
1 2
23 96
4
229
4
235
6
396
1
5
CLOTHING • Shopping Behaviour of Teen Age Girls in Mumbai City • A Comparative Study on the Performance of Commercial Hospital Bedlinen and Multilayered Bedlinen Developed • Reduction in the Cuts and Defective of the Worsted Suiting Fabric DYEING ⎯• E-control-The Ecofriendly Process • Staandardization of Dyeing Condition of Cochineal Extract on Pashmina Yarn • Application of Synthesized Disperse-azo Dyes on Silk Fabric- A New Vista of Silk Dyeing • Dyeing with a Natural Orange Pigment from Bacterial Source • Dyeing of Natural Fibres with a Red Pigment Produced by Streptomyces coelicolor FIBRES • A Review of Different Measures to Eliminate Contamination from Cotton FINISHING • Compression Bandage Coated with Micro Encapsules of Herb Ziziphus Jujuba Extract • Dimensional Characteristics of Preshrink Resin Treated Spun Viscose Weft Knitted Fabrics • Recent Advances in Shrinkproofing of Wool March - April 2012
Suchibrata Ray & Biswapati Chatterjee
A. Shanmugavasan & T. Ramachandran 1
27
J. C. Sakthivel & N. Anbumani
2
99
Jayant Udakhe, Smita Honade, & Neeraj Shrivastava
3
169
429
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION VOLUME 72 - MAY 2011 TO APRIL 2012 SUBJECT INDEX
SUBJECT INDEX • An Eco-Friendly Herbal Finish for Bed Linen • Antibacterial Activity of Garcinia Indica Dye
N. Vasugi & M. Kanimozhi Mamatha G. Hegde, S. Kauvery Bai & M. K. Vijayeendra V.D. Gotmare & Vinay G. Nadiger
3 4
178 238
5
295
Palash Paul & Debiprasad Gon P. Kanakaraj, R. Ramachandran & B S Dasaradan
1 2
9 90
2
109
4
245
5
313
Deepak Kumar, Murlidhar Pathak, Manneet Srivastava, Naveen Kr, Himanshu Kr. & Amar Shivam
3
159
Kariyappa, K.P.Shivakumar, P.M. Damodara Rao, Subrata Roy & T.H. Somashekhar
5
288
Vijayan Gurumurthy Iyer
2
79
4
242
• Optical Fibres for Smart Clothing & Technical Textile Application
H.S. Arvind Rao, Ashish Badwane, Harshali Pakhale, Mayuri Sadavarte, Vinay Joshi & Upendra Kulkarni M. Parthiban, M.R. Srikrishnan & S. Viju
5
308
TEXPERIENCE • Textiles Volumes are Shifting South-East Asia • Latest News in the World of Technical Textiles • Golden Period for Textile Industry
Arvind Sinha Sujata Sivaramakumar Parit Yogesh Kalia
1 2 3
42 113 190
Shraddha M. Teli
1
36
Anil Gupta & Prateek Rastogi
4
250
• Studies on Trace Element Analysis in Natural Antimicrobial Agent- Chitosan KNITTING • Warp Knitted Structures for Technical Use •Air Permeability Behavior in Multi Layer Weft Knit Fabrics
MANAGEMENT • Computer-aided Product Life Management Amandeep Kaur & Monika Sharma (PLM) - An Indispensable Tool for Fashion and Apparel Industry • Creating Consumer Awareness towards Mittu Gupta and Shilpa Charankar Care Labels • Indian Garment Industry: A Comparative study R.N. Joshi of Growth Trends in Domestic and Export Market POLYMER • Conductive Polymers
SILK • Studies on Processing of Tasar Silk Waste in Mill Spinning to Produce Quality Spun Silk Yarn and its Characterisation SPINNING • Properties of Gin Roller Covering Materials for Cotton Double Roller Gins (Part-II)
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
TECHNICAL TEXTILES • A Water Tank Reinforced with Textile Fibres and Geotextile
TEXSPECIAL • Significance of Corporate Social Responsibility in the Trade of Retail Branded Apparels • Prospects of Shuttle-less Looms in India 430
March - April 2012
SUBJECT INDEX • An Analysis of Current Economics and Technological Enviroment as a precursor to S & T Development WASTE MANAGEMENT • Textile Dyeing Industry Waste Water Treatment with Reverse Osmosis Membrane System YARN • Comparative Study of Blended Worsted Yarn Tensile Properties, Measured in Different Principles of Measurement • The Role of Secondary heater in Deciding Yarn Characteristics in Texturising Machine • Axial & Torsional Straining Analysis in Compact Yarns
M.K. Bardan
5
318
M. Ramesh Kumar & K. Saravanan
2
103
Achintya Kr. Samanta
2
85
B. Basu
3
166
M. R. Srikrishnan & R.C. Nayar
5
283
1. Place of Publication
2. Periodicity of Publication 3. Printer's Name Nationality Address 4. Publisher's Name Nationality Address
5. Editor's Name Nationality Address 6. Name and address of individuals who own the newspaper and partners holding more than 1% of the total capital
: The Textile Association (India), Central Office Pathare House, R. N. 6, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028. : Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year) : Shri Ashok Bagwe : Indian : Sundaram Art Printing Press 12, Wadala Udyog Bhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala, Mumbai - 400 031. : Shri J.B. Soma : Indian : 7-A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS. Ltd. New Dindoshi MHADA Colony, Near NNP No. 1 &2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 065 : Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar : Indian : Dept. of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019 : The Textile Association (India), Central Office 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028
I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. Mumbai 1st March 2012
(Sd/-) J.B. SOMA Publisher March - April 2012
431
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
FORM IV (See Rule 8) Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION
ATA/GMTA EXAM SCHEDULE
The Textile Association (India) - Central Office Pathare House, Room No.6, 2nd floor, Next to State Bank of India,67, Ranade Road, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel : 022-24461145 Fax : 022-24474971 E mail : taicnt@mtnl.net.in Schedule of ATA Examination December 2012 - A.T.A. Part-I [Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.] OLD COURSE Saturday, 22nd December 2012
Textile Fibres
Sunday 23rd December 2012
Principles of Spinning
Monday, 24th December 2012
Principles of Weaving
Tuesday, 25th December 2012
Principles of Chemical Processing
A.T.A. Part - II [Time 2.00 p. m to 5.00 p.m.] OLD COURSE Saturday, 22nd December 2012
General Engineering
Sunday 23rd December 2012
Indian Text. Industry & Mill Management
Monday, 24th December 2012
Group-I Spinning [S-I] Spinning Preparatory Group-II Weaving [W-I] Weaving Preparation Group-III Chem.Proc.[CP-I] Fibre, Bleaing & Finishing Group-IV Text. Test. & Q. Cont. [TTQC-I] Testing & Statistics
Tuesday, 25th December 2012
Group-I Spinning [S-II] Ring Spinning & Doubling Group-II Weaving [W-II] Weaving Machines Group-III Chem. Proc.[CP-II] Dyeing & Printing Group-IV Text. Test. & Quality Cont [TTQC-II] Quality Control
Schedule of A.T.A. Part-I, II & III (3-Years New Course)- December 2012 ATA Part-I
Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. ATA Part-II
Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.
Date
Subjects
Date
Subjects
22.12. 2012
Basic Engineering Sciences
22.12.2012
Principles of Yarn Manufacture
23.12. 2012
General Engineering
23.12.2012
Principles of Fabric Manufacture
24.12. 2012
Textile Fibres
24.12.2012
Principles of Textile Wet Processing
25.12. 2012
Elements of Textile Technology
25.12.2012
Principles of Textile Testing and Statistics
26.12. 2012
Elements of Comp. and its Applications
26.12.2012
Industrial Organization and Management
ATA Part-III - Time:10.00 a.m. to 1.00p.m Compulsory Subjects 22.12. 2012
Elements of Technical Textiles
23.12. 2012
Man-Made Fibre Technology
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Optional Subjects Date
Yarn Manufacture Group
Fabric Manufacture Group
Textile Wet Processing Group
Knitting & Garment Manufacture Group
24.12.2012
Process Control in Yarn Mfg.
Process Control in Fabric Mfg.
Wet Processing-I
Knitting Technology
25.12.2012
Modern Yarn Manufacture
Modern Fabric Manufacture
Wet Processing-II
Garment Technology
432
March - April 2012
ATA/GMTA EXAM SCHEDULE Schedule of G.M.T.A. (Old) Examination December 2012 Section-A Date
Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Subject No & Title
Section-B Date
Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. Subject No & Title
22.12. 2012 23.12. 2012 24.12. 2012 25.12. 2012
A-1 English A-2 Physics A-3 Mathematics A-4 Chemistry
22.12. 2012 23.12. 2012 24.12. 2012 25.12. 2012
B-1 Statistics B-2 Gen. Engineering B-3 Text. Physics B-4 Mech. of Text. Mach.
Section-C Time:10.00 a.m. to 1.00p.m Date
Spinning Group
Weaving Group
Chem.Proc.Group
22.12. 2012 23.12. 2012 24.12. 2012 25.12. 2012
SC1- Advanced yarn Mfg. SC2- Mod. Yarn Prod. SC-3- Proc. Control .in Spg. SC-4 -Engg. Desg. of . Tex. Struc Optional Papers SO1-Spg.of Man-made Fib.& Bl SO2-Long Staple Fibre
WC1-Advanced Fab.Mfg. WC2-Mod.Fab.Production WC3-Proc.Cont. in Wvg. WC4-Engg.Desi. of Text.
CPC1-Ele.of Chem.Engg CPC2-Chem.of Int. & Dyes CPC3-Chem.& Eval. of. Text. Aux. CPC4- Advanced Chem. Proc.
WO1-Knitting Technology
CPO1-Control Mechanism & Instrume. CPO2-Ele.of Poly.Chemistr
26.12. 2012 27.12. 2012 28.12. 2012 29.12. 2012
SO3-Theory & Desi.of Tex.Mac SO4-T.T. & Q.C.
Section-D
Time [ 2.00 pm to 5.00pm ]
26.12. 2012 27.12. 2012 28.12. 2012 29.12. 2012
D1- Data Pro.& Comp. Program D2- Manmade Fib Prod & Properties D3- Ind. Engg & Mill Management D4- Mill Org. & Proce. Control
WO2-Wvg.of Fil.& Text.Yarn WO3-Q.Cont.of wov & Non.wov WO4-Geo.Text & Ind.Fab
CPO3-Ble.Dye,Print & Fini. CPO4-Compu.Colour Mach.
Schedule of G.M.T.A. (Revised) Examination December 2012 Section-A
Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.
Section-B
Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.
Date 22.12. 2012 23.12. 2012 24.12. 2012 25.12. 2012 26.12.2012
Subject No & Title A-1 Engineering Physics A-2 Engineering Chemistry A-3 Engineering Mathematics A-4 General Engineering A-5 Professional Orientation
Date 22.12. 2012 23.12. 2012 24.12. 2012 25.12. 2012
Subject No & Title B-1 Yarn Manufacture B-2 Fabric Manufacture B-3 Textile Wet Processing B-4 Apparel manufacture B-5 Textile Testing
Dr. H. V. Sreenivasamurthy Chairman P. A. C.
V. D. Zope Hon. Gen. Secretary
Grow your organization’s business share through JTA March - April 2012
433
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1. Last date for receiving application at unit by 25th July 20132 2. Last date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit by 25th August 2012 3. Last date for receiving applications at the central office by 25th September 2012
FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA 20th GGMA National Garment Fair Date : 7th to 9th July 2012 Venue : Gujarat University Exhibition Centre, Drive in Road, Ahmedabad (Gujarat) Contact : The Gujarat Garment Manufacturers Association 912-913, Laxmi Vishnu Market, Gheekanta, Ahmedabad - 380 001 Tel. : 079-3024 8280, 2551 8280 E-mail : info@ggma.in, mail@ggma.in Website : www.ggma.in GTE Bangalore International Garment Technology Expo Largest Show on Apparel, Knitting, printing, Leather Machinery, Accessories & Related Services Date : 13th to 15th July 2012 Venue : Palace Ground, Gayatri Vihar, Bangaluru, India Contact : Ricky Sahani - 9810143711, Rishi Sahni 9873311224, H.S. Bakshi - 9313035773, Joel Victor - 9310308940 E-mail : i n f o @ g a r m e n t t e c h n o l o g y e x p o . c o m , garmenttech@airtelmail.in Website : www.garmenttechnolyexpo.com
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Vastra 2012 An International Textile & Apparel Fair Date : 22nd to 25th November 2012 Venue: EPIP, Sitapura, Jaipur, India Contact : Mr. Amit Gupta, Senior Assistant Director Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI), Rajasthan State Council 202, Rajputana Tower, 2nd Floor, House No. A-27-B, Shanti Path, Tilak Nagar, Jaipur - 302 004, Rajasthan, India Tel. : +91-141 2621345, 5103768, 4061345, Fax : +91-141 5116464 E-mail : amitgupta@ficci.com, vastra@ficci.com Website : www.ficci.com, www.vastratex.com
International Textiles & Apparel Sustainability Conference Date : 16th to 21st July 2012 at Mauritius E-mail : itasc@uom.ac.mu Website : http://sites.uom.ac.mu/itasc/ INDIA ITME 2012 - 9th International Textile Machinery Exhibition Date : 02-07th December 2012 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Western Express Highway, Goregaon (E), Mumbai , India Contact : Executive Director India International Textile Machinery Exhibitions Society 76, Mittal Tower, B Wing, 7th Floor, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021 India Tel. : +91 22-2202 0032, 2282 8138, 2285 1579 Fax : +91 22-2285 1578 E-mail : contactat@india-itme.com Website : http://www.india-itme.com ABROAD ITMA Asia & CITME 2012 (Asia's most prestigious textile machinery indus try event Date : 12-16, June 2012 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre (CNIEC), Shanghai, Contact : CEMATEX (European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) PO Box 248, Newcastle Upon Tyne, NE7 7WY UK United Kingdom Tel. : +44 7967 477305, E-mail : info@cematex.com IGATEX 2012 Largest Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition Date : 3rd to 6th October 2012 Venue : Expo Centre, Lahore, Pakistan Contact : Project Manager FAKT Exhibitors (Pvt) Ltd., 304, 3rd Floor, Clitton Centre, Block-5 Clitton, Karachi, Pakistan Tel. : +92-21 35810637, Fax: +92-21 35810636 E-mail : info@fakt.com.pk Website : www.igatex.pk
• Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to recheck the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. • All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form or by any means, nor may it be printed, photocopied or stored on microfilm without the written permission of the editor-publisher. 434
March - April 2012