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DYEING

Dyeing of Organic Cotton Fabric with Lac Dye using Different Mordants M.D. Teli*a, Sanket P. Valiaa, Dhanashri Kolambkara, Rupa Trivedib & Maruti Kambleb a Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, b Adiv Pure Natural, Abstract Western trades have become more stringent about the health and environmental impact of synthetic dyes in manufacturing and thus, there is an increasing demand for products that use natural dyes. In the early 21st century, the market for natural dye based on plants and minerals in the fashion industry is experiencing a renaissance. The greater part of natural dyes are vegetable dyes obtained from plant sources like roots, berries, bark, leaves and wood and other organic sources such as fungi and lichens. There are dyes also obtained from insects e.g. Lac dye. They can produce different shades of colours. In this study organic cotton fabric is dyed with Lac dye. Pre mordanting technique using alum and harda was used during dyeing of the organic cotton fabric. The dyed fabrics were evaluated for their wash and light fastness properties. The results indicate good potential for application of such Lac dye on organic cotton fabric. Keywords Natural Dyes, Mordant, Lac, Organic Cotton, Wash fastness, Light Fastness

Lac dye is based on anthraquinoid type of structure and composed of laccaic acid and erythrolaccin. Laccaic acid is water soluble compound whereas erythrolaccin is water insoluble. The laccaic acid is the mixture of five closely related compounds i.e., laccaic acid A, B, C, D and E. During the extraction of lac dye the amount of colorant depends on the percentage of laccaic acid present in stick lac. [2]

Figure 1.1 Structure of laccaic acid

The water-soluble dyestuff, lac dye is composed of analogues of laccaic acid, mainly in the form of ammonium salts. These pigments are present up to 10% in sticklac which is harvested before adult insects depart their cocoon. Processed seed lac and shell lac have a low content of laccaic acids but retain a yellow waterinsoluble pigment, erythrolaccin. [3]

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E), Mumbai - 400 019 Email : mdt9pub@gmail.com March - April 2014

337

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Lac dye is the scarlet pigment present in the living preemergent insects (Laccifer lacca; syn. Kerria lacca) which develop in a resinous cocoon, known as "sticklac" on the twigs of over 160 host trees in an arc from northern India through to Indo-China. The dyestuff is obtained by aqueous extraction of sticklac; the resinous residue is further processed to "seed lac" and to the fully refined "shellac".

1. Introduction Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have very low impact on the environment and are processed without using toxic chemicals which can be absorbed easily when in contact with the user's skin. Pesticides, fertilizers and chemicals used to grow cotton and process conventional cotton fabrics may enter directly to the user's blood stream which consequently affects the body's organs and tissues. Organic cotton production is not simply an elimination of fertilizers and insecticides but it is a complete production system, which requires equally sound knowledge of cotton production practices. [1]

DYEING 2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing processes The mordanting of Organic Cotton fabric was carried out in Rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, RossariÂŽ Labtech, Mumbai) keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1. The fabric was introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and the temperature was gradually raised to 900C. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 45 mins. After mordanting, the fabricss were squeezed and dyed with lac dye extract for four different shades 1%, 5%, 10% and 20%. The dyeing was continued at 900C for 1hr. After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washed with cold water.

From ancient times, lac dye has been employed in India as a skin cosmetic and for the dyeing of wool and silk, while China has a tradition of usage for leather dyeing. The colour of the dye can be modified by the appropriate choice of mordant from violet to red and brown. Seedlac and shellac, the major processed products of sticklac, are employed in varnishes, paints, printing inks, sealing wax, micanite compounds, as coatings for pharmaceutical and confectionery products. [4] Twigs and other inappropriate matter are first removed from the sticklac by hand picking, winnowing and sieving. Processing is undertaken as quickly as possible thereafter in order to avoid deterioration. [5]

3. Testing and Analysis 3.1. Colour value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression;

Lac dye is isolated as the next step, both for its deliberate production and for its discarding if the primary purpose is Seedlac /shellac production. The operation involves crushing the sticklac and extraction several times with water; insects and other debris are removed also at this stage. The dyestuff is obtained as a precipitate on acidification of the aqueous extract. [6]

K S

In this paper complete environmental friendly approach is employed for colouration of organic cotton with Lac dye. The effect of different mordants before dyeing is also studied.

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient. The dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100- white, 0- black), a* corresponds to the redgreen coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* corresponds to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations.

2. Materials and Methods 2.1. Materials Organic cotton was purchased from the market. All chemicals used were of laboratory grade and were purchased from S.D. Fine chemicals ltd. Lac dye and all the mordants were obtained from Adiv Pure natural

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

(1-R)Â˛ =

2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Dissolution of Mordant A stock solution of alum (10%) was made by dissolving 10 gm of mordant powder in 100 ml water and was used for mordanting. A stock solution of Harada (10%) was made by extracting 10 gm of Harda in 100 ml of boiling water for 45 min. Solution was filtered and used for mordanting the fabric.

3.2. Evaluation of Wash fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II method [7]. A solution containing 5 g/ l soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in Rota dyeing machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the sample and staining on the undyed samples were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent).

2.2.2. Extraction of Dye A stock solution of the dye (1%) was made by boiling 10gm of each dye in 1000 ml of water for 45 mins. The extract was filtered and made to original volume, and used for dyeing. 338

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DYEING giving enhanced depth of dyeing. Overall fastness properties of these samples were also better. The extent increase in K/S values when mordants were used one after ranged from 3.1328 to 18.748. The enhanced increase was due to high affinity of harda (tannic acid) with the fabric which forms complex with alum mordant and it is this combination finally responsible for enhancing lac dye uptake

3.3. Evaluation of Light Fastness Dyed fabric was tested for colour fastness to light according to ISO 105/B02 [8]. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature 650C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were compared with the standard scale of blue wool (ratings, 18, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 - good, 5 better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent).

4.1 Washing Fastness of dyed organic cotton fabric Most of natural red-color dyes have high solubility in water; therefore, the color fastness to washing of the dyed fabric is quite low. In order to improve its color fastness quality most of the dyeing processes are conducted using mordants. As evident from the results in Tables 4.1 to 4.4, the overall washing fastness varied in range of 4 to 5 (good to very good) for all the dyes except, when no mordants was used which shows poor wash fastness. The depth of the dyed fabric after wash fastness test for each dye decreased when compared with that of the original dyed sample of the same shade. This may be attributed to the loss of dye molecules in washing as the dye fibre bonding may not have been able to withstand washing conditions.

4. Results and Discussion The dyeing of Organic cotton fabric using mordants like alum, harda and combination of these two mordants was attempted and these results are summarized in Tables 4.1 - 4.4. To begin with attempts were made of dyeing organic cotton with different percentage shades without mordant and from results in Table 4.1, it can be clearly seen that the K/S values increased with increase in concentration of lac dye up to a certain extent. Lac dye showed limited dyeability towards organic cotton in absence of mordant which might be due to lack of complexation of dye in absence of the mordants resulting in removal of superficially held dye, during washing.

4.2 Light Fastness of dyed organic cotton fabric It is very clear from the results given in Tables 4.1 to 4.4; in general the light fastness was of the grade 5 (good). In case organic cotton dyed with lac dye without mordant, it was found to be 3 i.e. fair. Light fastness of sample dyed using combination of mordant was found to be slightly better (5 to 6) than that dyed using individual mordant. The depth of the dyed fabric after light fastness test for each dyed sample decreased as compared to the depth of the unexposed samples. This may be due to fading or photo degradation of the dye.

Tables 4.2 and 4.3 indicate dyeing of organic cotton using alum and harda as mordant respectively. It is clearly seen in the Tables that the K/S values of dyed samples with alum mordant were much more than those obtained using harda mordant. There has been clear cut increase in K/S values as a result of pre mordanting. The mordants act as a bridge between the fibre and dye. Lac dye gets complexed with the mordant which is pre deposited on the fabric. Metal mordant alum gives much pronounced increase in K/S value as compared to harda mordant. The % increase in K/S value as a result of pre mordanting with alum ranged from 1.5339 to 7.6839, whereas similar values in case of harda mordanted and dyed sampled varied in the range of 1.2604 to 3.5034.

A man receives a phone call from his doctor. The doctor says, "I have some good news and some bad news." The man says, "OK, give me the good news first." The doctor says, "The good news is, you have 24 hours to live." The man replies, "Oh no! If that's the good news, then what's the bad news?" The doctor says, "The bad news is, I forgot to call you yesterday."

Results in Table 4.4 indicate that highest colour yield as reflected in the K/S values obtained on when pre mordanting was done with combination of mordant. First mordanting with harda then with alum and then fabrics were lac dyed. Combination of mordant i.e. harda and alum gave excellent results in term of enhanced K/S values. This may be due to the synergistic effect of both the mordants when used together in March - April 2014

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Textsmile

DYEING Table 4.1: K/S values of Lac dyed organic cotton without mordant Sr. No.

Lac dye % Shade

K/S

Wash Fastness Rating (Color Change)

Light Fastness Rating (Color Change)

69.113 7.245

0.377 0.943

69.69

3.735 1.2936

54.629 15.546 7.786 1.9404

52.383 11.215 4.156 2.8104

8.972

Table 4.2 K/S values of Lac dyed organic cotton with Alum (20%) as mordant Sr. No.

Lac dye % Shade

K/S

Wash Fastness Rating (Color Change)

Light Fastness Rating (Color Change)

66.963 12.314 -3.908 1.5339

66.397 15.002 -4.701 3.8804

34.512 21.422 -4.287 5.581

34.821 23.348 -0.797 7.6839

Table 4.3 K/S report of Lac dyed organic cotton with Harada (20%) as mordant Sr. No.

Lac dye % Shade

57.626 6.694

54.48

3 4

K/S

Wash Fastness Rating (Color Change)

Light Fastness Rating (Color Change)

7.327 1.2604

12.208 10.056 1.8593

56.105 13.149 9.853 2.1107

57.356 15.007 10.451 2.5034

Table 4.4: K/S report of Lac dyed organic cotton with Harada (20%) & Alum (20%) as mordant

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sr. No.

Lac dye % Shade

K/S

Wash Fastness Rating (Color Change)

Light Fastness Rating (Color Change)

49.72

14.744 3.745 3.1328

4-5

5-6

44.56

23.033 -2.92

5.7666

4-5

5-6

27.969 26.848 -1.483 16.249

4-5

5-6

28.234 28.917 -0.822 18.748

4-5

5-6

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DYEING Ecofriendly dyeing of Organic cotton fabric was successfully carried out using Lac dye with and without mordants. The dyed products displayed good colour strength with metal mordant and also with natural mordant as well as their combination. The depth of dyeing increased with increase in percentage shade of the Lac dye. The fastness properties evaluated for these samples were also found to be quite satisfactory. Hence, the lac dye can be used on textile fabric especially organic cotton for getting completely eco-friendly shades.

References 1. Kumar S. R., Indian Textile Journal, November http://www.indiatextilejournal.com/articles/ FAdetails, as a?id = 644 2. Gupta D.C. and Prasad, K.M., Regional Workshop on Natural Dyes, 156-159.1993

Bhide N.S. Pandhare, E.D. Rama Rao, A.V. Shaikh, I.N. Srinivasan. R, Indian Journal of Chemistry, 7, 987-995, (1969) Bose P.K. Sankaranarayanan, Y. Sen Gupta, S.C. Chemistry of Lac (1st Ed.)Indian Lac Research Institute, Ranchi, India, 132, (1963). Ghosh A.K. et al., Reclamation of lac dye from lac effluents, Research and Industry (India), 9(5), 129-131, (1964). Hwang J.S., Chinese Journal of Entomology (Taiwan), Special Publication No. 5, 147-152, (1990). Trotman E.R. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres (fourth Ed.) Griffin, London, 590, (1970). ISO Technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006

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WEAVING

Effect of Different Weaves and Pick Densities on Thermal Properties of Fabric Nitish Sarda & S.B. Mhetre* Dept. of Textile Technology, DKTE'S Textile and Engineering Institute Abstract This paper represents the new domain of research and development on various comfort aspects of woven fabric manufactured with cotton and polypropylene (PP) yarns by changing pick densities and weaves of fabric. In this paper we have mainly focused on the influence of three different weaves and pick densities on the thermal properties of fabrics. In this paper we have discussed how these parameters may have contributed to the recognized difference in comfort performance of PP/cotton blend fabrics. Among the yarn known to date, PP & cotton have attracted special interest because of better wicking property and less cost of PP & cotton have better comfort properties of cotton fabric. So this research tries to optimize the fabric parameters to get better comfort with low cost. Keywords Comfort, Pick densities, Weaves, Cotton, Polypropylene

mal balance in order to maintain the required comfort level; the metabolic heat generated together with the heat received from external sources must be matched by the loss from the body of an equivalent amount of heat. If the heat gain and the heat loss are not in balance then the body temperature will either rise or fall, leading to a serious threat to life [1].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Thermal comfort of a clothing system is associated with the thermal balance of the body and its thermo regulatory responses to the dynamic interactions with the clothing and the environment. It is necessary to design fabrics with necessary thermal properties for a specific end-use. In actual wearing conditions, the transmission of moisture and heat through the clothing system takes place in steady state as well as transient conditions. The human body is rarely in a thermal steady state, but is continuously exposed to transients in physical activity and environmental conditions.

1.1.2 Factors affecting the Thermal Performance of Fabrics There are several factors which affects the thermal properties of fabric among which thermal insulation plays vital role in preventing heat loss from body. Adine Gericke & Jani van der Pol [3] stated that thermal comfort is influenced by textile fabric properties such as thermal resistance. Research carried out by H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley [4] with series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blend fabrics concluded that both the fabric construction and the constituent fiber properties affect thermal transport. Further they stated that thermal insulation, air permeability, and water vapor transmission rate are dependent mainly on the fabric geometrical parameters like thickness and porosity etc. Sinem Gunesoglu et. al [5] found that the thermal protective performance increases with the entrapped air inside the fabric in both convective and radiant exposures. Frydrych I. et. al [6] studied thermal insulation properties of fabrics made of natural and manmade cellulose fibers and they found that the type of raw material and fabric structure influences the prop-

1.1 Need of Thermal Comfort Human body tries to maintain a constant core temperature that is 37.40C. The actual value of this temperature may vary slightly from person to person but it is always in a narrow range. The comfortable surrounding environment temperature for human body in India is 210C. When temperature is more or less than this body feels discomfort as a result human body needs some external agency to maintain this temperature and clothing is one of the most common device to provide comfort in this regard. The body must be kept in ther-

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Mr. S.B. Mhetre DKTE's Textile & Engg. Institute Rajwada, Ichalkaranji - 416 115 Dis. Kolhapur. Email : sbmehetredkte@gmail.com 342

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WEAVING erties of the finished goods. Also they stated that, there are many possibilities to create fabric with properties which influence their comfort.

Table 2.1: Fabric parameters

Weaves

Further they stated that the comfort properties of woven fabrics can be achieved not only by the choice of thickness or the fabric cover factor, but also by applying appropriate weaves, appropriate finishing processes and raw materials.

Plain(1/1) Twill(1/3)

3 Satin(4 end sati n)

Picks per inch 50 60 70 50 60 70 (PPI)

2.3 Methods 2.3.1 Evaluation of yarn properties Yarn tenacity and breaking elongation were measured on a Premier Tensomax-7000 tester according to ASTM D2256 procedure.

1.2 Polypropylene (PP) for Apparel Developments In woven sectors, PP staple fibers are consumed in carpets fabrics as floor coverings, filter fabrics, anti microbial fabrics, hygiene products, fire resistant and in other technical textiles. At present, globally PP has some modest representation in socks, thermal underwear and sports apparel, but very little presence in the main-stream garment sectors. The restrictions appear to relate to certain physical and chemical properties of PP fibre which had been the limiting factors for its use in apparel development. Besides this property PP has all the advantages and uniqueness in properties such as its low specific weight, chemical inertness, hydrophobicity, insulating ability, UV stability, colour fastness, recyclabity and finally price.

2.3.2 Evaluation of fabric construction parameters The end and pick densities were measured with a pick glass at ten randomly selected positions for each sample. 2.3.3 Evaluation of fabric tensile properties The tensile behavior of all fabric samples were measured by using Instron tensile tester and the test was carried out according to ASTM D5035-95 method. 2.3.4 Evaluation of fabric thickness and GSM Fabric thickness was measured with a thickness tester as per the ASTM D1777 standard. GSM of fabric samples were measured by GSM cutter according to ASTM D3776 standard.

2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 2.1.1 Yarn samples

2.2 Preparation of fabric samples We have made samples from cotton as warp and polypropylene as weft material with the parameters shown in below Table 2.1. Nine fabric samples were prepared on a sample weaving machine (single head rapier machine Width - 22"). All samples were tested in the gray form.

3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Yarn Properties The results for the yarn properties are shown in Table 3.1. The result shows that polypropylene yarns are suitable for apparel from the standpoint of breaking strength.

Texttreasure

Table 3.1 Results of the yarn properties

The highest education is that which does not merely give us information but makes our life in harmony with all existence - Rabindranath Tagore

Parameters Count Strength (gmf) Elongation (%) 343

Cotton 2/100s Ne 0.157 5.79

Polypropylene 65D (24 fila.) 0.155 15.36

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3.5 Evaluation of transmission properties of fabrics Air permeability of all the fabric samples was measured on air permeability tester and the test was carried out according to ASTM D737. The thermal insulation was evaluated on KES-FB5 (Thermo lab II). The test was carried out according to ASTM D1518 standard.

Cotton yarn (Warp) Polypropylene yarn (Weft) Count - 2/100s Ne Draw textured yarn Resultant count - 50s Ne Denier - 65 D Gray yarn Medium tenacity yarn Brown coloured yarn

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No of Samples

WEAVING 3.3.2 Thermal resistance (m2K/W) Figure 3.2 shows that the thermal resistance value of fabric woven with lower PPI was low, but there was no certain trend of change in thermal resistance value with increase in PPI of fabric. Thermal resistance value is reciprocal of thermal conductivity and in previous discussion point it was clear that the thermal conductivity of lower PPI fabric was higher compared to higher PPI fabrics.

3.2Fabric Properties Fabric properties were shown in Table 3.2. Results were studied statistically by using Anova: Two-Factor without Replication experiments. Table 3.2: Fabric properties PPI

Weaves

Air Permeability (Cm3/cm2.sec)

Thickness (mm)

Thermal Resistance value(clo)

Thermal Insulation Value (%)

50 Plain 126.379

0.301

0.18

17.85

60 Plain

104.834

0.247

0.18

10.29

70 Plain

62.811

0.282

0.36

28.18

50 Twill

146.402

0.331

0.29

8.95

60 Twill

136.491

0..336

0.42

12.97

70 Twill

95.62

0.359

0.25

50 Satin

146.99

0.299

0.26

60 Satin

144.153

0.314

0.37

11.81

70 Satin

89..449

0.324

0.30

8.06

Figure 3.2 Effect of Pick Densities on Thermal resistance (m2K/W)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

All the tests for thermal properties of fabrics were carried out as per the ASTM D-1518. The results are represented graphically and discussed below. This results show that, different kinds of weaves and pick densities influence on thermal properties of fabrics which is discussed separately pick wise and weave wise. Though, the results were not found to be statistically significant.

3.3.3 Thermal Insulation Value (TIV) From Figure 3.3 it can be seen that the thermal insulation value of fabric does not show any trend of change due to change in PPI. The fabric with 70 PPI gave highest TIV value because TIV value is dependent on stagnant air-pockets within fabric structure and more TIV gives more fine voids (more stable), so fabric with 70 PPI gave highest TIV value.

3.3 Effect of Pick densities on Thermal Properties 3.3.1 Thermal conductivity (W/mK) From Figure 3.1 it is observed that there was not a certain trend of change in thermal conductivity value. Thermal conductivity of fabrics manufactured with 50 PPI was slightly higher than the fabrics made up with other PPI. But the statistical analysis shows that the rise due to PPI value change was non-significant. For the fabric with 50 PPI the fabric structure was more open compared to higher PPI values, so the heat transfer due to radiation was more which gave more thermal conductivity of fabric.

Figure 3.3 Effect of Pick Densities on TIV (%)

3.4 Effect of Weaves on Thermal Properties 3.4.1 Thermal conductivity (W/mK) Figure 3.4 shows that the thermal conductivity of fabric changed with change in weave. Among Plain, Twill and Satin weave, fabric with plain weave gives higher thermal conductivity compared to twill and satin weaves. Because for plain weave, the point of yarn intersects are more compared to twill and satin weaves. Due to

Figure 3.1 Effect of Pick Densities on Thermal conductivity (W/mK) 344

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WEAVING increased number of points of intersects, yarn to yarn conduction increases which ultimately resulted in more conductivity.

Figure 3.6 Effect of Weaves on TIV (%)

3.4.2 Thermal resistance (m2K/W) Figure 3.5 shows the thermal resistance value woven fabric. We observed that fabrics with twill weave have the highest value of thermal resistance, whereas plain fabrics have in general the lowest value of thermal resistance. Fabrics with twill and satin weaves have a value of thermal resistance at more or less the same level. Thermal resistance is a very important parameter from the point of view of thermal insulation, and is proportional to the fabric structure.

Fabrics with plain weave and 50 PPI gives higher thermal conductivity compared to fabrics woven with twill, satin weaves and 60, 70 PPI. But the rise was not statistically significant.

◆

Fabric with twill weave and 60 PPI have given highest thermal resistance value this value was not significantly different from thermal resistance values of fabrics manufactured with plain, satin weaves and 50, 70 PPI.

◆

Fabrics with 70 PPI and plain weave gives better insulation value compared to fabrics woven with twill, satin weaves and 50, 60 PPI. But the change in thermal insulation of fabrics was not statistically significant for fabrics with different weaves and different PPI values.

References 1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Thermal_comfortwww.google.com 2. http://www.slideshare.net/kotharivr/comfort-properties-of-fabrics-5262746 3. Adine Gericke & Jani van der Pol, Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, 38, (2010). 4. H.N. Yoon and A. Buckley, Textile Research Journal, May, (1984). 5. SinemGunesoglu, BinnazMeric, CemGunesoglu, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 13 April / June (2005). 6. Frydrych, G. Dziworska, J. Bilska, Fibres & Textiles In Eastern Europe, October/December (2002). ❑❑❑

Figure 3.5 Effect of Weaves on Thermal resistance (m2K/W)

3.4.3 Thermal insulation value (TIV) From Figure 3.6 shows that the thermal insulation value is highest for plain weave where as satin weave shows overall minimum value. Twill weave has shown moderate TIV value. TIV value of fabric depends upon the stagnant air pockets within the fabric structure and among all these three weaves, plain weave has more close structure so the air entrapped in the fabric with plain weave is more stagnant which results in more TIV value.

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4. Conclusion Based on the experimental results of the selected sorts of fabrics the following conclusions are drawn:

Figure 3.4 Effect of Weaves on Thermal conductivity (W/mK)

WEAVING

Predicting Strength Properties for Ring and Compact Egyptian Cotton Spun Yarns using Artificial Neural Network M.H. El-Shakankery*a, Ibrahim, A.E.I. and El-Banna, A.A.A.E.b a Textile Engineering Dept., National Research Center b Fac. Agric., Saba Basha, Alex. Univ. Abstract This paper presents the prediction of tensile properties of ring and compact combed cotton spun yarn by using artificial neural network. A several hidden layer neural network trained by using the back propagation algorithm was used. A functional between HVI properties, yarn count from three different type of Egyptian cotton fibers and yarn tensile properties were studied. The neural network was trained and used to predict the tensile properties of yarns and to compare with experimental yarns tensile results. In each case, the prediction error was less than the standard deviation of experimental results. For both the ring and compact yarns, the effect of length uniformity is pronounced when the fiber strength and yarn count are less. Furthermore, as the yarn becomes finer, yarn strength and elongation decrease. Key words Artificial Neural Network, HVI properties, Back propagation algorithm, Ring, Compact, Egyptian cotton

have successfully employed ANN models for the prediction of various yarn properties from fiber specifications and spinning process parameters. In all these investigations, the performance of neural network models has been evaluated, either without comparing them with any other models or at most by comparing them with statistical models [1-14].

1. Introduction The properties of resulting yarn are very important in determining the yarn quality and their possible applications. The breaking load of spun yarn is one of the most important properties which directly affect the winding, weaving and knitting efficiency. Various researchers have investigated prediction of yarn properties from fiber specifications and spinning process parameters. They have compared the performance of four different models- mathematical, empirical (regression equation), and computer simulation. Neural networks are now a subject of interest in many fields and a tool for many areas of problem solving. From the mid-1990s, artificial neural networks (ANN) have been received much attention from researchers to use in various textile related applications. A lot of researchers

2. Materials and methods 2.1. Materials In this work, three different Egyptian cotton fibers are used to produce several ring and compact yarn. Fiber properties were measured from finisher drawing slivers by using the Uster HVI testing system. Table 2.1 shows HVI cotton fibers properties.

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Table 2.1: Cotton fiber properties.

HVI properties Cotton varieties Giza 88 Giza 92 Giza 93

Upper-half mean length (mm) 35.7 34.1 36.8

Length uniformity index (%) 88.5 87.5 87.6

Fiber strength (g/tex) 47.8 47.5 46.7

Fiber elongation (%) 6.9 6.4 6.1

Micronaire value 3.7 3.8 3.2

Yellowness degree (+b) 11.7 8.6 11.4

Reflectance degree (Rd%) 67.3 77.3 66.4

To study the effect of fiber properties and process parameters such as HVI fiber properties and yarn count on yarn properties (Single yarn strength and elongation). Furthermore, the effect of linear density of yarn

* All Correspondence should be addressed to Dr. M. H. Elshakankery National Research Centre, Textile Research Division, Dokki, Cairo,Egypt Email : mhmoude2003@yahoo.com 346

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WEAVING is investigated by using five counts 60, 80, 100, 120 and 140 Ne. Each yarn is spun at 4.3 twist factor. All samples were spun on the same spinning position and condition to minimize the variation among the samples. For measuring the yarn tensile properties, Tensile Tester was used according to test method ASTM D-2256-80. Hundred measurements were made on each sample.

average value of the variable over the data set, Xi,max is the maximum value of the variable, Xi,min is the minimum value of the variable and is the maximum range between the average value and either the minimum or the maximum value. Training is equivalent to find proper weight for all connections of nodes between layers such that a desired output is generated for a corresponding input. The major training algorithms are as follows:

2.2. Artificial Neural Networks design Neural network design is a complex process because important decisions are required to establish a suitable and stable network. In developing the neural network model, various network structures were tired with one hidden layer. It has been shown that multi-layer feedforward with hidden layers is able to model any complex liner function provided there is a sufficient hidden neurons number available. Therefore, one of the primary aspects of the neural network training process is the selection of the best possible number of hidden neurons. A network with too few hidden neurons would be incapable of variance between complex patterns, leading to only a linear estimate of the actual trend. While, if networks have too many hidden neurons, they will follow the noise in the data, leading to poor generalization for untrained data. To establish the optimal number of neurons required in the hidden layer, an experimental process was conducted by steadily varying the number of neurons. The hyperbolic tangent sigmoid transfer function was assigned as the activation function in the hidden layer and the linear function was used in the output layer.

1- Initialize all the value of connection weight Wij between node j in the output layer and node i in the input layer. 2- Present an input for each node i in the input layer and specify the desired output for each node j in the output layer. 3- Calculate actual output of all nodes j using the present value of the Wij. The output of node j denoted by Xj, is function of its total input: ……….(3) Where:

4. Find an error term for each output node and hidden node, and then update weights Wij. 5. Return to step (2) to present another new input for each node until all the training sets have been learned and the weights have stabilized During the process, the learning data were used to train the network to get minimum mean square error (MSE) between measured and network outputs. These were used to measure the performance of the model

For predicting the tensile properties of cotton yarn, neural network models were designed had eight input units; HVI fiber properties and yarn count and two output units, as neurons. The number of hidden layers is usually adjusted by trials and errors. Studies by various researchers have shown that the second hidden layer can improve the performance of the network if there is a complex relationship between input and output. In either set or cases, the data sets were normalized between limits of -1 and +1 with the average value set to zero. The normalized variable Xi norm is represented as follows:

In this study artificial neural network (ANN) models have been designed to predict the ring and compact cotton yarn properties from the fiber properties measured on HVI (high volume instrument) system and the performance of ANN models have been compared with regression analysis. Yarn count and fiber properties were selected as input variables as they give significant influence on ring and compact cotton yarn properties.

………. (1)

Figure 2.2 shows the structure of neural network. The network model has an input layer consisting of input nodes, hidden layers and an output layer consisting of output, nodes which are all connected into a complete

And, Where Xi is an input or output variable, Xi,avg is the March - April 2014

347

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……… (4)

WEAVING network. The advantage here is that the complex nonlinear relationship between the input and output vectors can be handled more easily. Each node has a transfer function f, one output value y, and several input value x. Each input value is multiplied by a corresponding weight factor w, (the relationship between the input and the output).

3. Results and discussion 3.1. Yarn strength (g/tex) For the ANN models, the effect of number of hidden neurons from two to eight was studied, six hidden neurons (two layers) gave the best prediction results for ring yarn strength with a MSE of 0.0442, whereas with eight inputs and six hidden neurons (two layers) gave the best prediction results for compact yarn strength with a MSE of 0.0643. To evaluate the predictive power of ANN model, we used correlation coefficient R value and minimum mean square error (MSE) between measured and network outputs. Table 3.1 shows the overall R value and MSE for the ANN training. Table 3.2 shows the feat of multiple regressions on training data cycles. Figures 3.1 and 3.2 show the relation between predicted and observed data for ring yarn breaking strength and compact yarn breaking strength respectively. The difference between the MSE value of two models for predicting ring yarn strength and compact yarn strength of training data were 0.73798 and 0.596, respectively. In relation to ring yarn breaking strength, the maximum MSE in the neural network model for predicting testing data set as it was 0.05416. It was 1.0571 for the multiple regression models on training data cycles. On the other data set, the maximum MSE for predicting the compact yarn strength was 1.0762 in the neural network model and it was 1.2558 for the multiple regression models. Both of these data were related to the sixth data of training cycles and data sets. That mean, the ANN models were obtained to be more accurate than multiple regressions and it is important to determine the lowest MSE in the predicting testing data occurring in the neural network mode.

In implementing the back-propagation network model, total of eight input parameters consisting of seven fiber properties and yarn count were used. The HVI properties considered were fiber upper half mean length, length uniformity, fiber strength, elongation at break, micronaire value, yellowness and brightness. The output parameter for the model was the yarn strength properties.

Figure 2.2: An example of a single-output neural network model

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Table 3.1: R value and MSE for the ANN training of yarn strength Training Cycle

R valuefor ring yarn breaking strength

R value for compact yarn breaking strength

0.9425

0.9456

0.05416

1.0762

0.9527

0.948

0.0513

0.4698

0.9535

0.9507

0.0462

0.2699

0.9563

0.9588

0.0454

0.1264

0.9664

0.9639

0.0445

0.0657

0.9682

0.9642

0.0442

0.0643

Ave

0.9566

0.9552

0.047627

0.34538

348

MSE for ring yarn breaking strength

MSE for compact yarn breaking strength

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WEAVING Table 3.2: The fitting of multiple regressions on training data cycles of yarn strength

Data set

B value for ring yarn breaking strength

0.8667

B value for compact yarn breaking strength

MSE for ring yarn breaking strength

MSE for compact yarn breaking strength

0.6748

1.0571

1.2558

0.9365

0.7899

0.8605

0.9937

0.9365

0.8649

0.8515

0.9576

0.9421

0.8668

0.7358

0.9175

0.9575

0.876

0.7185

0.8965

0.9776

0.8918

0.4903

0.6272

Averge

0.93615

0.827367

0.785617

0.941383

Figure 3.3: Effect of fiber length and yarn count on ring yarn strength

Figure 3.1: The relation between predicted and observed data for ring yarn strength

The response surface Figures 3.3 and 3.4 shows the effect of both fiber length (which is related to cotton type) and yarn count on predicting ring yarn breaking strength and compact yarn strength respectively. It is clear that the relation presents the ideal saddle shape. Decreasing yarn count levels in final strand leads to an increase yarn strength at all levels of fiber length. Increasing fiber length has a slight increasing effect on yarn breaking strength for both ring and compact yarn. This may be due to: a. Yarn count that can be spun from cotton depends on its fiber length. Other properties being equal, finer yarns

Figure 3.2: The relation between predicted and observed data for compact yarn strength. March - April 2014

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Figure 3.4: Effect of fiber length and yarn count on compact yarn strength

WEAVING can generally be spun from the longer cottons.

followed the same trend and decreased gradually from lower the fiber length and fiber strength.

b. At the same count, yarns spun from longer cottons, other fiber properties being equal, are stronger than those from shorter cottons.

3.2. Yarn elongation (%) For the ANN models, the effect of number of hidden neurons from two to eight was studied, six hidden neurons (two layers) gave the best prediction results for ring yarn elongation with a MSE of 0.0662, whereas with four inputs, with six hidden neurons (two layers) gave the best prediction results for compact yarn elongation with a MSE of 0.0688.

c. Fiber length has a direct bearing on yarn strength because the longer the fibers in yarn the greater number of points of contact and cohesion between them, and consequently increased yarn strength. d. Longer cottons, when spun into a specific count, require less twists, especially in yarns, and, consequently higher productivity for the spinning frame. Fiber length is usually associated with strength and fineness, longer fibers cottons are usually of higher fineness and strength.

To evaluate the predictive power of ANN model, we used correlation coefficient R value and minimum mean square error (MSE) between measured and network outputs. Table 3.3 shows the overall R value and MSE for the ANN training. Table 3.4 shows the feat of multiple regressions on training data cycles. Figures 3.5 and 3.6 show the relation between predicted and observed data for ring yarn breaking elongation and compact yarn breaking strength respectively.

Generally, it could be concluded that the single yarn strength correspondingly increased by increasing number of fibers in yarn cross-section for the two studied spinning systems. The superior strength of yarn made by the convergent channel is due to differences in its structure and the single yarn strength of cotton variety

Table 3.3: R value and MSE for the ANN training of yarn elongation (%) Training Cycle

R value for ring yarn breaking elongation

R value for compact yarn MSE for ring yarn breaking elongation breaking elongation

MSE for compact yarn breaking elongation

0.8839

0.8643

1.2839

1.1762

0.9031

0.8951

0.7077

0.9343

0.9207

0.9162

0.4886

0.7122

0.9466

0.9396

0.2442

0.4305

0.9608

0.9508

0.1372

0.1843

0.9764

0.9605

0.0662

0.0688

0.9319

0.9211

0.4879

0.5844

Average

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Table 3.4: The fitting of multiple regressions on training data cycles of yarn elongation (%)

Data set

B value for ring yarn breaking strength

0.8020

0.7882

1.3125

1.5048

0.8328

0.8074

0.9363

0.9629

0.8639

0.8350

0.5172

0.6408

0.8773

0.8509

0.3428

0.4591

0.8885

0.8651

0.1658

0.2129

0.9161

0.8865

0.1262

0.1237

0.8634

0.8389

0.5668

0.6507

Average

B value for compact yarn breaking strength

350

MSE for ring yarn breaking strength

MSE for compact yarn breaking strength

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The difference between the MSE value of two models for predicting ring yarn breaking strength and compact yarn strength of training data were 0.0788 and 0.0663, respectively. In relation to ring yarn breaking strength, the maximum MSE in the neural network model for predicting testing data set as it was 1.2839. It was 1.3125 for the multiple regression models on training data cycles. On the other data set, the maximum MSE for predicting the compact yarn strength was 1.1762 in the neural network model and it was 1.5048 for the multiple regression models. Both of these data were related to the sixth data of training cycles and data sets. That mean, the ANN models were obtained to be more accurate than multiple regressions and it is important to determine the lowest MSE in the predicting testing data occurring in the neural network model.

Figure 3.5: The relation between predicted and observed data for ring yarn elongation.

The response surface, figures 3.7 and 3.8 show the effect of both fiber length and yarn count on predicting ring and compact yarns elongation respectively. The response surface, figure 3.7 shows that with decrease yarn count levels in final strand leads to an increase ring yarn elongation at all levels of fiber length. Increasing fiber length has a slight increasing effect on ring yarn elongation at all levels of yarn count. This may be due to the yarn structure of the ring spinning system, number of fibers in yarn cross-section for the yarn count and fiber strength effect on the yarn elongation percentage and the differences between the Egyptian long staple varieties in yarn elongation were of low magnitude. The yarn elongation (%) of cotton variety followed the same trend and gradually increased by the fiber length.

Figure 3.6: The relation between predicted and observed data for compact yarn elongation

The response surface, figure 3.8 shows that with increase fiber length level increase compact yarn elongation at different levels of yarn count. Increasing yarn count has a slight decrease effect on yarn elongation however this effect reversed at higher level of yarn count at all levels of fiber length. This may be due to the yarn structure of the compact spinning system and the spinning limit or the fineness count depends on fiber properties (such as length, fineness, strength and maturity) It could be concluded that higher fiber strength and higher elongation lead to a higher spinning limit. Also, fiber fineness determines the numbers of fibers in yarn cross - section while fiber length determines the number of turns per unit length that a fiber makes along length.

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Figure 3.7: Effect of fiber length and yarn count on ring yarn elongation 351

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WEAVING

WEAVING REFERENCES 1. Ali A.M.M., Ph.D. thesis, Fac. Agric., Saba Basha, Alex. Univ., Egypt, (1994). 2. Anirban, G., R. Chattopadhyay and Jayadeva., Journal of the Textile Institute, 92,(2), 139-145, (2001) 3. Ashour A.Y., Abdel-Fattah M.T., Abdel-Mohsen M.A. and Ismial A.M., Egyptian Cotton Gazett. 97, 10-21, (1991). 4. Beltran, R., Wang L. and Wang X., Textile Research Journal, 74, 757-763, (2004). 5. Chen, Y. Artificial neural networks for yarn quality prediction, College of Material Engineering Suzhou University, (2010). 6. Cheng, K.P.S. and Lam H.L.I., Textile Research Journal, 73, 161-164, (2003). 7. Cheng, L. and Adams D.L., Textile Research Journal, 65, 495-500, (1995). 8. El-Sayed M.A.A., Ph.D. thesis, Fac. of Agric., Saba Basha, Alex. Univ., Egypt, (2000) 9. Elshakankery, M.H., El-Sayed M.A.M. and Suzan H.S., Journal of Applied Sciences Research, 4(11),1380-1386, (2008). 10. Ethridge, D. and Zhu R., Proceedings of the Belt wide Cotton Conference, 2, 1314 - 1317, (1996) 11. Ismail, A.M. and Abd El-Mohsen M.A., J. Agric. Res., 69(6), 2263 - 2274, (1991). 12. Ramesh, M.C., Rajamanickam R. and Jayaraman S., Journal of the Textile Institute, 86, 459-469, (1995). 13. Saweris, F.M.S., El-Hariry S.H.M., Marzook A.S.I. and Mansour F.S., Egyptian Cotton Gazett., 100, 31-41, (1993). 14. Üreyen, M.E. and Gürkan P., Fibers and Polymers, 9, 87-91, (2008 a). 15. Zeng, Y.C.; K.F. Wang, and C.W. Yu., Textile Research Journal, 74, 689-694, (2004).

Figure 3.8: Effect of fiber length and yarn count on compact yarn elongation

4. Conclusion Ring and compact yarn strength and elongation have been predicted by an artificial neural network. The neural network based on the back-propagation algorithm used HVI properties and yarn count of several cotton fiber qualities as input. Yarn strength and elongation were the output of the neural-net model. Anural net was trained and then used to predict the yarn strength and elongation properties. The errors of prediction in each case were less than the standard deviation of experimental data results for both the ring and compact yarns. The effect of length uniformity is pronounced when the fiber strength and yarn count are less. Also, the yarn becomes finer, the yarn strength and elongation decrease.

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Attention All Members of THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Please update their profile & contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our website www.textileassociationindia.org E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, 352

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TESTING

Inter-relationships between Deviation Rate (DR%) in Yarn Mass and Variations in Yarn Tensile Characteristics and Fabric Appearance K.P. Chellamani*, D.Veerasubramanian & M.K. Vittopa The South India Textile Research Association Abstract Cotton yarn samples in the count range of 20s to 100s were collected from member mills. These samples were tested for single yarn strength CV, single yarn elongation CV and the number of weak spots in a given length of yarn. To assess the presence of weak spots, 5000 m of yarn has been taken as the sample length. Since weak spot is a rare occurrence, testing longer length of yarn is essential to arrive at a realistic estimate. An expression connecting deviation rate (DR%) in yarn mass with yarn strength CV, elongation CV and weak spots in yarn has been developed. Cotton yarn samples with different levels of deviation rate were woven & knitted and the effect of deviation rate in yarn mass on fabric appearance was assessed. Key words DR%, yarn strength, elongation, weak spots, yarn mass

1. Introduction An uneven yarn gives rise to a patchy fabric. Very high levels of unevenness also results in loss of yarn strength. After the introduction of electronic irregularity testers during 1950s, measurement and control of yarn unevenness form one of the major quality control activities carried out in textile mills. In the recent past, a new parameter called "Deviation Rate (DR%)" is introduced as a quality criterion in yarns to be measured and monitored. DR is defined as the ratio of the length of yarn, which has mass exceeding pre-set mass limit to a given cut length of yarn [1].

Figure 1.1: Illustration of deviation rate in spun yarn

The line M in the Figure 1.1 represents the mean yarn mass of the length L (eg. 1.5 m) and +a and -a represent lines of the positive and negative deviation limits (eg. +/- 5%) of the mean yarn mass.

S@ (+) = @2 + @3 + @6 and S@ (-) = @1 + @4 + @5 @2, @3, @6 are lengths of yarn with mass higher than the average yarn mass by 5% or more. @1, @4, @5 are lengths of yarn with mass lower than the average yarn mass by 5% or more.

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, K.P. Chellamani The South India Textile Research Association. (SITRA) Coimbatore - 641014 Email : kpc@sitra.org.in March - April 2014

DR is a sort of medium term variation in spun yarns. Earlier SITRA has conducted some studies on the effect of fibre properties & process variables on de353

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S@ (+) + S@ (-) DR % = ----------------------- x 100 (%) L In Figure 1.1,

TESTING viation rate in yarn mass [2]. Studies pertaining to the influence of yarn mass variation on tensile variations are scanty in literature and hence the present study was carried out. The present study is an attempt to evaluate the extent of relationship between deviation rate (DR %) and variations in yarn tensile characteristics; and to quantify the effect of DR% in spun yarns on fabric appearance.

CV% - 0.1 x No. of weak spots / 5000 m + 10 …………….. (i) The quality attributes of yarn samples taken for the study are given in Appendix - I. Strength CV, Elongation CV and weak spots in yarn were assessed using Tensojet tensile testing instrument. The use of Tensojet instrument is due to the fact that it directly provides information on the extent of weak spots in yarn. Testing speed in Tensojet is 400 m/ min which facilitates testing of longer lengths of yarn in a relatively shorter length of time.

Yarn strength CV, yarn elongation CV and weak spots in yarn were taken as the parameters broadly representing the tensile property variation in spun yarn in the present study.

The prediction expression gives a very close fit with actual deviation rate with a high correlation of 0.91 (Figure 3.1).

2. Materials and methods The study has been carried out in 2 parts. In part I, 51 yarn samples differing widely in their deviation rate values (DR%) in the count range of 20s to 100s were collected from member mills. These samples were tested for single yarn strength CV, single yarn elongation CV and the number of weak spots in a given length of yarn. Weak spot has been defined as, 'Spots in the yarn with breaking strength value lower than 70% of the average breaking strength of the yarn'.

Figure 3.1: Correlation between actual DR% and predicted DR%

The average error of estimate was found to be about 1.0 DR%. For the benefit of mills who do not have Tensojet equipment, the yarn quality attributes were also evaluated using Tensorapid instrument and the expression connecting DR% with tensile property variations (assessed using Tensorapid instrument) is given by DR% = 3.3 x strength CV% - 2 x elongation CV% 0.1 x No. of weak spots / 5000 m + 19 …………….. (ii) The expression gives a good fit with a correlation of 0.89 and error of estimate at 2 DR% (Figure 3.2).

To assess the presence of weak spots, 5000 m of yarn has been taken as the sample length. Since weak spot is a rare occurrence, testing longer length of yarn is essential to arrive at a realistic estimate. An expression connecting deviation rate in yarn mass with yarn strength CV, elongation CV and weak spots in yarn has been developed.

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In part - II, yarn samples with different levels of deviation rate were woven & knitted and the effect of deviation rate in yarn mass on fabric appearance was assessed. 3. Results and Discussions 3.1 Prediction expression connecting deviation rate in yarn mass and variations in tensile characteristics. Theoretically one would expect good association between variation in yarn mass and variation in tensile characteristics. The following linear expression has been arrived at in this connection.

Figure 3.2: Correlation between actual DR% and predicted DR%*

DR% = 3.5 x strength CV% - 1.8 x elongation 354

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TESTING * The quality attributes of yarn samples taken for the study are given in Appendix -II.

SITRA guideline values for deviation rate in yarn mass are given Table 3.2.

3.2 Change in deviation rate from Cop yarn to cone yarn In view of the fact that majority of the mills are using autoconers adopting stringent clearing of their yarns, it is of interest to know what happens to deviation rate in ring yarns after cone winding. Hence, the ring yarns and the corresponding cone yarns collected from member mills were tested for deviation rate and the values are given in Table 3.1.

Table 3.2 SITRA guideline values for DR% in cotton yarns

Yarn Count

Table 3.1 Deviation rate in ring and the corresponding cone yarns for different counts S.No Yarn Count

Difference (absolute values)

20s

30.4

28.8

1.60

30s

22.67

21.56

1.11

40s

26.5

25.25

1.25

60s

22.92

21.62

1.30

80s

20.70

18.90

1.80

100 s

21.67

20.00

1.67

* 20s 30s 40s 60s 80s 100s

(Ne)

25%

50%

20 C

11.5

13.0

16.0

30 C

13.0

16.0

17.5

40 C

14.0

18.0

19.0

60 C

14.5

18.0

19.5

80 C

16.0

18.5

21.0

100 C

17.0

19.5

21.5

Guideline values are provided in a 3 point scale as SITRA 5% statistics, SITRA 25% statistics & SITRA 50% statistics

Deviation rate (DR %)* Ring yarn Cone yarn

Deviation rate (DR %)

Some of the measures to contain deviation rate in yarn mass are given below : 1. Use of mixings having high level of short fiber content may be avoided to have a control on the deviation rate in yarn mass. The short fiber content i.e. SFC (n) - (Measured by advanced fiber information systems) in the mixing need to be maintained in the range of 20 to 25%. The recommended level of short fibre content in mixings used for different count groups are given in Table 3.3.

average of 5 sample readings, average of 9 sample readings, average of 8 sample readings, average of 13 sample readings, average of 10 sample readings & average of 3 sample readings.

Table 3.3 Guideline values for the short fibre content in mixings used for different count groups

24 - 26

31 -60

21 - 23

61 and finer

18 - 20

2. A defective joint in the upper apron of a ring frame introduces high level of deviation rate in yarn mass. Ovality or eccentricity in the front bottom roller of fly frame tends to increase the deviation rate in yarn mass. 3. Yarns produced using fly frame with 3/3 pressure Drafting system generally exhibit relatively higher level of DR%.

3.3 Measures to control deviation rate in yarn mass In the yarn samples studied in this investigation, the deviation rate varies between 17 DR% and 40 DR% in different counts. In many cases, these values are higher as compared to guidelines values / norms established by SITRA for deviation rate [2]. March - April 2014

1 -30

60s C and 80s C yarns were produced using 0.2 hank and 0.26 hank finisher draw frame slivers respectively. The slivers were processed through i) Fly frame with 355

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Count group (Ne) SFC(n) - tested using AFIS instrument

Due to cone winding, deviation rate in yarn mass generally comes down which is attributed to the removal of objectionable yarn faults in winding due to yarn clearing installations. The extent of reduction in deviation rate after cone winding, on an average, is around 1.5 DR% (absolute values). The small difference in the quantum of reduction between different counts may be due to the different fault clearer settings maintained in different mills for different counts.

TESTING 3/3 pressure drafting and ii) Fly frame with 4/4 spring drafting separately. Then these rovings were spun into 60s and 80s yarns and they were tested for DR%. The results are shown in table 3.4.

Table 3.6: Grading of knitted fabrics (single jersey) made using 40s CH yarns

Judges

Table 3.4: DR% of yarns processed through pressure drafting and spring drafting in flyframe.

Count Type of fly frame drafting 60sC 80sC

Deviation rate in yarn mass (DR%)

3/3 pressure drafting

23.0

4/4 spring drafting

20.0

3/3 pressure drafting

24.0

4/4 spring drafting

21.5

Use of 4/4 spring drafting in fly frame helps to reduce mass variation by 2.5 to 3.0 DR% 3.4 Effect of deviation rate in yarn mass on fabric appearance Fabrics were made using 30s CH, 40s CH and 60s CH yarns with different levels of deviation rate and 40s CW, 60s CW and 80s CW yarns with different levels of deviation rate. The appearance of those fabrics was evaluated by 10 judges and the mean values were calculated. Those results are given in Tables 3.5 to 3.10.

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18.2

26.0

33.5

10.

Ranking (Mode)

Table 3.7: Grading of knitted fabrics (single jersey) made using 60s CH yarns

Judges

Table 3.5: Grading of knitted fabrics (single jersey) made using 30s CH yarns

Judges

DR%

DR% 17.5

28.2

44.0

25.7

30.2

34.8

10.

Ranking (Mode)

10.

Ranking (Mode)

Textsmile A man was complaining to a railroad engineer. What's the use of having a train schedule if the trains are always late. The railroad engineer replied. How would we know they were late, if we didn't have a schedule? 356

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TESTING Table 3.8: Grading of woven fabrics made using 40s CW yarns

Judges

DR%

DR% 19.2

24.0

29.0

10.

Ranking (Mode)

18.9

26.7

33.2

Both in the case of woven as well as knitted fabrics, fabrics made using yarns with lower values of DR% stand superior in terms of appearance. This agrees well with earlier research findings [3].

Table 3.9: Grading of woven fabrics made using 60s CW yarns

Judges

DR% 17.5

28.7

44.3

4. Conclusions

Two expressions have been derived for cotton yarns. One to predict deviation rate in yarn mass from tensile property variations measured using tensojet instrument and the other to predict deviation rate in yarn mass from tensile property variations measured using tensorapid instrument.

10.

Ranking (Mode)

The agreement between actual and predicted values of deviation rate in yarn mass was found to be good in both the predictions. However, the expressions are valid only for the range of cotton counts covered in this investigation. Due to cone winding, deviation rate was found to reduce and the extent of reduction, on an average, was around 1.5 DR%.

Texttreasure

Some vital measures to control deviation rate in yarn mass are suggested.

Liberty without Learning is always in peril and Learning without Liberty is always in vain

Fabrics made using yarns with lower values of DR% stand superior in terms of appearance. This is true for both woven and knitted structures.

- John F. Kennedy March - April 2014

357

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Judges

Table 3.10: Grading of woven fabrics made using 80s CW yarns

TESTING Appendix - I (contd...)

5. Acknowledgement The authors are thankful to Dr.Prakash Vasudevan, Director, SITRA for his keen interest in this project. Thanks are also due to Mr.J.Sudharsan, Spinning Division, SITRA for his help in data compilation.

Sr. Count No. (Ne)

Appendix - I Deviation Rate in yarn mass and variations in tensile characteristics (Quality evaluation using Tensojet Instrument) Sr. Count

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

No. (Ne)

Yarn quality attributes Deviation Strength Elongation rate CV% CV%

No. of weak spots/ 5000m

20 K

31.0

10.0

9.50

20 K

36.0

11.0

8.60

20 K

34.0

11.4

8.80

20 K

40.0

13.0

9.80

24 C

20.0

6.70

8.60

30 C

25.0

8.70

8.30

30 C

26.0

8.60

8.80

30 K

30.0

10.2

7.50

30 K

30.0

10.6

7.80

30 K

32.0

9.70

7.90

36 C

14.0

8.00

14.0

40 C

18.0

8.00

9.80

40 C

20.0

8.50

9.00

40 C

23.0

8.90

9.40

40 C

26.0

9.00

10.0

40 C

28.0

10.2

7.90

40 K

33.0

11.2

9.70

44 K

30.0

11.6

7.90

50 C

16.0

7.50

8.30

50 C

18.0

8.90

13.4

50 C

18.0

11.2

12.0

50 C

20.0

11.0

12.6

Yarn quality attributes Deviation Strength Elongation rate CV% CV%

No. of weak spots/ 5000m

56 C

25.0

12.6

14.6

60 C

17.0

9.00

12.5

60 C

17.0

10.0

12.9

60 C

18.0

10.0

13.1

60 C

23.0

11.0

11.5

60 C

20.0

10.5

13.9

60 C

28.0

11.4

10.5

60 C

23.0

10.1

9.80

60 C

23.0

9.90

12.1

60 C

28.0

10.8

11.8

60 K

40.0

15.4

10.1

60 K

44.0

15.9

9.30

64 C

21.0

10.5

11.4

64 C

22.0

9.70

12.3

66 C

25.0

12.3

10.9

80 C

18.0

10.5

11.6

80 C

19.0

10.7

13.9

80 C

20.0

10.9

12.5

80 C

21.0

12.0

13.6

80 C

24.0

12.4

13.9

80 C

23.0

10.9

11.6

80 C

23.0

12.2

13.9

80 C

23.0

13.1

11.5

90 C

34.0

15.0

9.30

92 C

26.0

14.9

11.6

92 C

29.0

14.0

13.8

94 C

19.0

11.7

14.6

100 C

20.0

11.5

12.7

100 C

21.0

11.2

13.7

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) MUMBAI UNIT Organizes One day Conference on "Indian Textiles - The Journey Ahead" On Friday, 14th November 2014 At Hotel The Lalit Mumbai, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 099 Contact : Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Tel : +91-22-2432 8044, 2430 7702, Fax: +91-22-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com /taimu@mtnl.net.in, taimu@net9online.in, 358

March - April 2014

TESTING Appendix - II * Deviation rate in yarn mass and variations in tensile characteristics (Quality evaluation using Tensorapid Instrument)

No. (Ne)

Sr. Count No. (Ne)

Yarn quality attributes Deviation Strength Elongation rate CV% CV%

No. of weak spots/ 5000m

Yarn quality attributes Deviation Strength Elongation rate CV% CV%

No. of weak spots/ 5000m

80 C

19.0

12.1

15.1

80 C

20.0

10.1

11.7

80 C

21.0

9.53

11.6

80 C

24.0

12.7

14.3

80 C

23.0

10.7

12.7

80 C

23.0

10.0

13.3

80 C

23.0

12.8

13.3

90 C

34.0

13.8

9.71

92 C

26.0

14.6

14.4

92 C

29.0

13.4

12.0

94 C

19.0

12.1

14.5

20 K

31.0

9.82

10.1

20 K

36.0

10.3

7.49

20 K

34.0

10.2

7.47

20 K

40.0

12.8

8.66

24 C

20.0

6.60

9.61

30 C

25.0

8.03

8.24

30 C

26.0

8.16

10.2

30 K

30.0

9.43

9.15

30 K

30.0

10.9

8.82

30 K

32.0

8.90

8.34

100 C

20.0

11.5

14.7

36 C

14.0

7.68

13.3

100 C

21.0

10.6

12.5

40 C

18.0

7.88

11.2

40 C

20.0

7.73

8.93

40 C

23.0

7.79

9.17

40 C

26.0

8.16

9.26

40 C

28.0

9.25

7.67

40 K

33.0

10.9

10.2

44 K

30.0

8.90

7.73

50 C

16.0

6.27

7.10

50 C

18.0

7.79

12.1

50 C

18.0

11.9

10.9

50 C

20.0

12.5

15.7

56 C

25.0

12.4

14.8

60 C

17.0

8.60

12.9

60 C

17.0

10.2

13.6

60 C

18.0

8.03

10.9

60 C

23.0

9.07

9.45

60 C

20.0

9.45

11.7

60 C

28.0

10.3

10.5

60 C

23.0

9.42

9.13

60 C

23.0

9.40

12.5

60 C

28.0

10.1

11.9

60 K

40.0

14.2

9.86

60 K

44.0

14.7

9.25

64 C

21.0

9.59

10.9

64 C

22.0

10.8

11.9

66 C

25.0

10.6

10.1

80 C

18.0

10.1

11.3

March - April 2014

* Quality attributes evaluated for a test length of 5000 m

References 1. Anon, Uster Tester 5 - Application Handbook, Dec (2008) 2.

Chellamani K.P., Parthassarathy N., Vittopa M. K., SITRA Research report, 51 (6), (2006)

Felieu Marsal, Daniel Palet, Liliana Indrie, Mariana Ratiu, International Scientific Conference held at Oradea University Romania, May (2009).

❑❑❑

Textsmile Q: If you drop a white hat into the Red Sea, what does it become? A: Wet. Q: What do you call a boomerang that won't come back? A: A stick. Q: What is white when it's dirty and black when it's clean? A: A blackboard. 359

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sr. Count

Appendix - II (contd...)

NON WOVENS

Characteristics and Effects of Fibre Crimp in Nonwoven Structure Subhankar Maity* Department of Textile Technology, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology Abstract This paper describes characteristics and effects of fibre crimp in nonwoven structure. Crimp is one of the most important characteristics of natural and man-made fibers. Various types of fibre crimps available and introduced in textile strands are described here. Influence of fibre crimp on the processability of the fibre and properties of end-product are described. Crimp is quantified in terms of various measurable parameters such as wave length, crimp length, crimp frequency, crimp angle, crimp amplitude, crimp index and crimp degree. Three-dimensional characteristic of crimp is represented. Effect of fibre crimp on various geometrical, mechanical and transmission properties of nonwoven fabric are described here.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Fibre Crimp, Crimp Frequency, Crimp Index, Geometrical, Mechanical, Transmission properties

cotton fibre is microscopic scale phenomenon but crimp of other fibres is macroscopic in nature and visible in bare eye.

1. Introduction Crimp in textile fibers is an essential parameter, influencing processing performance and product quality. Natural fibres like cotton have convolutions or microscopic natural crimp. For processing of initially straight man-made fibers in conventional textile equipments, designed for natural fibers, they need to have certain frictional properties and cohesion. These parameters are controlled by an artificially introduced waviness and the application of finish. So, crimp in a textile fibre is defined as the undulations or succession of waves in the fibre which are induced either naturally during fiber growth, or mechanically/chemically during processing of the fibre [1]. Crimp in a fiber is thus considered as the degree of deviation from linearity of a non straight fiber. Fiber crimp is also can be called as the waviness of a fiber expressed as waves or crimps per unit length or as the difference between the lengths of the straightened and crimped fiber (expressed as a percentage of the straightened length). The crimp in the textile fibre strand can be classified as (i) Crimp in the yarns (ii) Crimp in the staple fibre and (iii) Crimp in the filaments. Crimp in the staple fibre can be classified as (a) Helical crimp (Wool) (b) Planner crimp (manmade fibres) and (c) Convolutions (cotton). These are shown in Figures 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 respectively. Convolution in

Figure 1.1: Helical crimp in wool

Figure 1.2: Planner crimp in manmade fibres

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Subhankar Maity Department of Textile Technology, Dr. B. R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab. Email: maity.textile@gmail.com

Figure 1.3: Convolution in cotton 360

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NON WOVENS 4.1 Wave Length, Crimp Length and Crimp Frequency The wave length (l) of fiber crimp is defined as twice the distance between two crossings of the fiber with the zero axis as shown in Figure 4.1. It cannot be measured directly because fiber crimp by far is too irregular and the small measuring quantity. So, the crimp length (lc), which is the average length of fiber in one crimp, is sometimes used to describe the crimp. It is defined as: l lc = 2 More commonly used is the crimp frequency (Cf) of a fiber, defined as twice the average of the inverse of the wavelength. It is also called crimp number or crimp count, and characterizes the number of crimp bows or waves (Cn) per unit length of straightened fiber (L0). The unit length (L0) is taken as 1 inch in the USA, whereas in Europe, 100 mm or 1 cm is used.

2. Importance of Crimp in Textile Fibre Fiber crimp characteristics have a big influence on the processing performance of the fibers [2-11]. Helical crimp found in wool has a three-dimensional shape. This crimp causes a high degree of bulk or loftiness, good thermal isolation and pleasant tactile properties which are available with wool fibres [12]. This helical crimp in wool is inherent and very stable. Due to this wool fibers reveal a reversible spring-like return when dried after wetting, or release after stretching. The geometrical shape of wool fiber crimp essentially depends on temperature and humidity. Man-made fibers are processed into woven, knitted, and nonwoven fabrics [13]. In order to make synthetic fibers processible with traditional textile equipment, originally designed for natural fibers, the elastic behavior and shape of wool is imitated by crimping the synthetic fibers [2, 14]. Straight, slick synthetic fibers would not have sufficient cohesion for carding, combing, drawing, roving, and spinning. In nonwoven processes, crimp and crimp retention during processing are major contributors to processing efficiency, cohesion, fabric bulk and bulk stability [15-16]. Crimp also contributes essentially to the properties of intermediate fiber assemblies, yarn and finished fabrics. Crimping synthetic fibers increases the bulkiness of the card web or sliver and changes the hand of the produced fabric [17].

Cf =

l 4.2 Crimp Angle The angle a between the leg of a crimp wave and the zero line may be used to characterize crimp geometry. The crimp angle (f) is the angle between the two legs of a crimp bow, as shown in Figure 4.1. f indicates the sharpness of a crimp.

3. Imparting crimp in the textile fibre Natural fibres such as cotton, wool have developed crimp naturally. But manmade fibres are required to impart crimp during processing stages. For manmade fibers, crimp varies in type and intensity. Crimp parameters can be controlled over a wide range by different crimping techniques and settings. The setting of the fiber crimp is caused by structural changes in the material at a molecular level through a process of crystallization and crystalline reorganization [18]. Various crimping processes for imparting artificial waviness are Edge crimping, Gear crimping, Knit-Deknit, Bicomponent crimping etc [19].

4.3 Crimp Amplitude and Crimp Index Crimp amplitude is the most important parameter in fibre characteristics. It is considered as a factor for the classification of wool quality by visual assessment and handle [5, 21-24]. While in general, finer wool fibers have a higher fiber crimp [5, 24]. The crimp amplitude (A) is the maximum distance of a crimp bow from the zero axes. Since the measurement of the amplitude of single crimp bows is practically impossible, average crimp amplitude of the fiber is derived geometrically with Pythagoras from length measurements of the crimped and the uncrimped fiber. The crimp index (Ci) is an indirect measure of the crimp amplitude. It is also called crimp ratio, crimp percent361

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.1: Crimp geometry of fibre

4. Crimp parameters Crimp is one of the most important characteristics of natural and man-made fibers. So, there should be consensus of how to quantify crimp in terms of measurable parameters. Due to the irregularity, variability and complexity of shape and behavior of crimped fibers, there is no agreement on what properties should be used to describe crimp characteristics [2, 20-21]. Some of the important crimp parameters are described here. March - April 2014

NON WOVENS Ci=K g-1

age, crimp contraction or crimp retraction and is the ratio of the difference of extended length (L0) and crimped length (Lc) of a fiber, in percent of the extended length of the fiber (L0). Ci describes the crimp potential of a textile fiber as its ability to contract under tension. L0-L c Ck = Ă&#x2014;100% Lc

Other researchers defined degree of fiber crimp by k=P/L, which is defined as the ratio between the fiber perimeter P, and the end-toend distance, or length L of each fiber. Therefore, fiber crimp k > L implies that fiber perimeter P is larger than the fiber end-to-end length L, and that the fiber is not straight (i.e. the fiber perimeter is constant regardless of the degree of fiber crimp, however the end-to-end fiber length tends to decrease as fiber folding increases [25].

A crimp index of zero (Ci = 0) indicates that the fiber is straight with no crimp. A crimp index of one (Ci=1) indicates that in the relaxed state, the fiber is in collapsed loop form in the case of helical crimp, or ideally plied together at zero length in the case of planar crimp. For a given crimp frequency Cf, the crimp index Ci is a measure for the crimp amplitude. Sometimes, the crimp index is denoted as percentage of the crimped length as: Ck =

L0-Lc Lc

5. Three-Dimensional Character of Crimp Crimp form of textile fibers is essentially three-dimensional in character. Two parameters, the geometric curvature and torsion are accurately described in the space path of fiber crimp as shown in Figure 5.1 [1, 11, 26]. Measurements are needed for determination of these parameters which are tedious and impractical to obtain by manual methods. An instrument built by DuPont makes these measurements automatically. It differs from published instrumental techniques by providing data which allow definition of torsion and curvature of crimp as well as the more usual the fiber crimp frequency and extensibility parameters. A measurement of a series of fibers shows that fiber crimp, expected to be planar by virtue of mechanical crimping process, and has a three-dimensional character. A curved line in space can be defined by curvature and torsion at any point along the line. These two quantities as a function of arc length of are basis for development of crimp parameters. Statistics of curvature and torsion distribution along a fibre and among fibres are also important descriptive parameters of crimp. Geometric torsion should not be confused with mechanical or fibre torsion, commonly called twist. Curvature is by definition a mathematical expression, which is more easily visualized in a physical sense than is geometric torsion. The mathematical statement of these parameters is: l db T = n ds l dt K = n ds Figure 5.1 shows a curve in three-dimensional space (x, y, z Cartesian co-ordinates).Torsion T and curvature K at any point on this curve can be defined in terms of three orthogonal vectors; the normal vector n which is in the direction of the radius of curvature; the tangent vector t which is tangent to the curve at the point and orthogonal to the normal vectors; and the

Ci Ă&#x2014;100% WhereCk =

1-C i

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

4.4 Crimp Width and Crimp Depth These parameters were defined for the use in numerical image analysis of crimped fibers. The crimp width (Cw) is the distance between the midpoints of successive valleys of a crimp, as shown in Figure 4.2. The crimp depth (Cd) is the perpendicular distance between a peak of a crimp and a line joining the valleys of the adjacent crimp waves. Cw, Cd or Cw Cd characterize the size of individual crimps. The mid points are determined by numerical regression of fitting curves. For an idealized triangular crimp bow, Cw corresponds to l/2 and Cd corresponds to 2A.

Figure 4.2: Irregular crimp wave

4.5 Crimp Degree The crimp degree (Kg) is defined as L0 / Lc, where L0 is the length of the straightened fiber and Lc is the length of the crimped fiber .It is related to the crimp index by 362

March - April 2014

NON WOVENS binomial vectors b which is orthogonal to the other two. Curvature K and torsion T can be expressed in the x, y, z-co-ordinates system, so that data obtained by the automatic crimp-measuring instrument are used to calculate these parameters for any crimped fibre [11, 26].

Figure 5.1: Crimp Curve in three-dimensional x, y, z Cartesian co-ordinates [1, 26]

Figure 6.1: The mean number of contacts per fiber plotted against fibre crimp (k) [26].

6. Effect of Fibre Crimp on Geometrical Properties of Nonwoven Degree of crimp in staple fibre affects the fabric pore size distribution. The fiber-to-fiber contacts and fiber orientation play a crucial role in determining the physical behavior of nonwoven fabrics [25]. The effect of fiber crimp on several fiber network properties is shown in Figures 6.1, 6.2 and 6.3. In general, increasing fiber crimp (keeping fiber density, flocculation and anisotropy constant), also increases the mean number of fibers per zone, and more interestingly, it increases substantially the total number of bonds per fiber. On the other hand, mean pore size tends to decrease when fiber crimp is increased. Fiber crimp has a higher impact on isotropic structures than on anisotropic structures. As crimp is increased, isotropic structures tend to present smaller mean pores, higher mean number of fibers per zone, and higher total number of bonds per fiber, than anisotropic structures [25]. But different result was reported by other researchers [27]. It was reported that if fibre crimp increased then the average pore size decreased in simulated anisotropic nonwoven structure [27]. This occurs because an increase in crimp the number of crossovers especially in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis increased. It was suggested that in isotropic structures, the number of crossovers remained the same and so, increasing fiber crimp would have little or no effect on pore size in isotropic structure [27]. It was also reported that increasing fiber crimp in a given structure results in rounder and less elongated pores [27]. At low levels of crimp, the effect of structure anisotropy was significant. As crimp increases, the structure anisotropy became less dominant as many pores are small and round. March - April 2014

Figure 6.3: The mean number of fiber per zone plotted against fibre crimp (k) [26]. 363

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 6.2: The mean pore size plotted against and fiber crimp (k) [26].

NON WOVENS crimp is important in determining the resiliency of high loft nonwovens [30]. Also it was reported that fibre crimp played a vital role in determining the compression behavior of nonwovens [31]. Carded nonwoven fabrics composed of staple fibers having two dimensional helical crimp are anisotropically distributed with strong orientation in machine direction whereas conventional spunwebs are constructed of non crimped continuous filaments with more or less isotropic distribution in the fabric. Spunbond nonwoven fabrics provide much higher mechanical strengths in machine direction and cross direction than carded nonwoven fabrics but because of the non crimped fibers all characteristics derived from such as softness, drapability, loftiness are comparably worse than that of the carded nonwoven fabrics [32]. Crimped fibre nonwoven used as reinforcing material in composite structure exhibited superior mechanical performance by formation of multiple fine cracks, due to mechanical interlocking of fibers in the nonwoven structure [33].

(a)

8. Effect of Fibre Crimp on Transmission Properties of Nonwoven As fiber crimp is increased from zero, air permeability of nonwoven material increases, but capture efficiency and specific cake resistance are affected only by a change from zero to a finite crimp frequency [28]. Three rayon fibres samples having crimp levels designated zero, normal (5.8 crimps/cm) and high (7.6crimps/ cm) were prepared. Micrographs of the three kinds of fiber are shown in Figure 8.1. Filtration efficiencies of these three fabrics (weighing 0.17 kg ml) were measured using atmospheric dust and no cake, and the results are shown in Table 8.1. The Table 8.1 shows that in the crimped fibers give slightly higher efficiencies than straight fibers. The advantage of crimped fibers over unprimed extends into the diffusion region, showing that the differences are probably due to different cake formations [34].

(b)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 6.4: Simulated image (a) isotropic and (b) anisotropic crimp distribution [26]

7. Effect of Fibre Crimp on Mechanical Properties of Nonwoven Fiber crimp influences the number of fiber-to-fiber contacts and hence mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics [28-29]. Fibre crimp affects the ability of bales to open up. A high crimp value provides more cohesion, but it also makes the fibre opening more difficult. A low-crimp fibre opens easily and yields a high-quality web, but it is more difficult to process. The opening properties of the fibre must be balanced with its cohesive properties to have an efficient bonding line [13]. The study of crimp stability of fibre in nonwoven fabrics is required for predicting the processability of the fibre in nonwoven equipment and also the properties of the nonwoven. Verma and Meridith showed that fibre

Figure 8.1: Micrographs of rayon fibers (7.8X),' .A = no crimp; 'B = normal (5.8 crimps/cm); C = high crimp (7.6 crimps/cm). [34] 364

March - April 2014

Table 8.1: Air permeability of nonwovens for different crimp level [28] Crimp [cm-1]

Density [g.cm-3]

Air Permeability [m.s-1]

7.6

0.112

1.52

5.8

0.112

1.43

0.112

1.28

References 1. Bauer-Kurz, I., Fiber Crimp and Crimp Stability in NonwovenFabric, www.thenonwovensinstitute.com. 2. Alexander E., Lewin M., Musham H. V., Shiloh M., Textile Research Journal, 26, 606, (1956). 3. Woods H. J., Journal of the Textile Institute, 26, 93, (1935). 4. Horio M., The Theory of Crimp of Textile Fibers, Memoirs of the Faculty of Engineering, Kyoto University, 222-273, (1964). 5. Onions W. J., Wool - An Introduction to Its Properties, Varieties, Uses and Production, New York, Interscience Publishers, (1962). 6. Cook V. G., Handbook of Textile Fibres, Vol. 1 Natural fibres, Woodhead Publication Ltd., Merrow, 20, (1984). 7. Hicks E. M., Ryan J. F., Taylor R. B., Tichenor R. I., Reversible Crimp in an Acrylic Fiber, Textile Research Journal, 30, 1960, (1960). 8. Heimeran O., Ein neuer Weg zur Kr채uselungsmessung an Spinnfasern, Melliand Textilberichte , 328, (1944). 9. Winson C. G., Report on a Method for Measuring the Resilience of Wool, Journal of the Textile Institute, 23, 386, (1932). 10. Horio M., Kondo T., Crimping of Wool Fibers, Textile Research Journal, 23, 373, (1953). 11. Brand R. H., Scruby R. E., Textile Research Journal, 43, 544, (1973). 12. Barach J. L., Rainard L. W., Textile Research Journal, 20, 308, (1950). 13. Klein W., Man-made Fibres and their Processing, The Textile Institute, Manual of Textile Technology, Short-staple Spinning Series, 1, 61, (1994). 14. Cliffs, E.N.J., Encyclopedia of Textiles, American Fabrics and Fashions Magazine, 3rd edition, (1980). 15. Sandrieser E., On-line Crimp Measurement, Chemical Fibers International, 49 (6), 504, (1999). 16. Perner H., Kittelmann W. Friedel H.,] Textiltechnik; 28, 88, (1978). 17. Barach J. L., Rainard L. W., Textile Research Journal, 20, 308, (1950). 18. Miller R. W., Carpet Yarn Heat & Twist Setting, Carpet Fundamentals: Heat Setting Processes Impact Carpet Performance, Clemson University's

Conclusions Crimp as an essential parameter of textile fibre influences processing performance of the fibre during product manufacturing and also influences product quality. The crimp in the textile strand can be introduced in the yarns, staple fibres and filaments during their manufacturing. Crimp in the staple fibre can be classified as Helical crimp (Wool), Planner crimp (manmade fibres) and Convolutions (cotton). In nonwoven processes, crimp and crimp retention during processing are major contributors to processing efficiency, cohesion, fabric bulk and bulk stability. Crimps can be introduced in synthetic fibres by the processes such as Edge crimping, Gear crimping, Knit-Deknit, Bicomponent crimping etc. Due to the irregularity, variability and complexity of shape and behavior of crimped fibers, there is no agreement on what properties should be used to describe crimp characteristics. A high crimp value provides more cohesion, but it also makes the fibre opening more difficult. A low-crimp fibre opens easily and yields a high-quality web, but it is more difficult to process. The study of crimp stability of fibre in nonwoven fabrics is required for predicting the processability of the fibre in nonwoven equipments and also the properties of the nonwoven. The mean pore size of nonwoven tends to decrease when fiber crimp is increased. It was also reported that increasing fiber crimp in a given structure results in rounder and less elongated pores. Softness, drapability, loftiness of spunbond nonwovens made of uncrimped filaments are comparably worser than that of the carded nonwoven fabrics made of crimped staple fibre. As fiber crimp is increased from zero, air permeability of nonwoven material increases, but capture efficiency and specific cake resistance are affected only by a change from zero to a finite crimp frequency. Actually, very few studies have been done on the effect of fibre crimp on nonwoven structure and its distribution in the nonwoven structure. So, more studies are required in this field.

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NON WOVENS

NON WOVENS Conference, February 24-25, Dalton, GA, (1999). 19. Hearle J. W. S., Hollick L., and Wilson D. K., Cambridge, Yarn texturing technology, Woodhead Publishing Limited, England, First Edition, 62, (2001). 20. Xu B., Pourdeyhimi B., Sobus J., Textile Research Journal, 62, 73, (1992). 21. Lang W. R., Crimp-Quality Relationships, Journal of the Textile Institute, 38, 241, (1947). 22. Roberts N. F., Textile Research Journal, 26, 687, (1956). 23. Young S. S. Y., Dunlop A. A., Conference Proceedings, Int. Wool Textl. Res. Conf., Australia, (1955). 24. Barach J. L., Rainard L. W., Textile Research Journal, 20, 308, (1950). 25. Scharcanski J., Dodson C.T.J. and Clarke R. T., Nonwoven Structure Statistics: Simulation of Effects of Fiber Crimp, Flocculation, Density and Orientation, INJ Spring 23-29, (2002). 26. Brand R.H. and Kende P.,Textile Research Journal, 40, 169, (1970).

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27. Kim H.S. and Pourdeyhimi B. , Intern. Nonwovens J. 9(4), 15, (2000). 28. Albrecht W., Manmade Fibers for the Nonwovens Industry-Standard and Special Grades, properties and potential uses, INDEX 1987, Congress Papers: Session A1. Fibers; Dec. 14, (1987). 29. Das D., and Pourdeyhim B., Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile research, 35, 303 (2010). 30. Verma D. S., and Meredith R., Textile Research Journal, 43, 627, (1973). 31. Beil N. B., and Robert W. W., Textile Research Journal, 72, 341, (2002). 32. Groitzsch, D., Ultrafine Microfiber Spunbond for Hygiene and Medical Application, EDANA´S 2000 Nonwovens Symposium, (2000). 33. Pekmezci, B. Y., Kayaoglu B. K., Pourdeyhimi B., and Karadeniz A. C., Journal of Composite Materials, (2013), published online, doi: 10.1177/ 0021998313507614 34. Lamb G. E. R., Costanza P. A., Textile Research Journal, 49, 79, (1979). ❑❑❑

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Balancing Work Life: With Special Reference to Textile Industry

Mr. B Purushothama was born on 20th January 1949. His Educational Qualifications includes M Sc Tech., FTA, FIE, CAQ, PGDBA, he is also a Lead Auditor ISO 9000, TQM Facilitator. He has a vast experience of working at various positions for 43 years in Textile Industry. He has worked for 16 years at Gokak Mills as Assistant General Manager and was instrumental in getting ISO 9001 certificate. He was in the Advisory subcommittee of Bombay Textile Research Association for 8 years. He was in the TX-30 Committee of Bureau of Indian Standards. He is also an active member of The Textile Association (India) - Dy Chairman Book Publication Committee, member in Professional Awards Committee, have prepared books for ATA and GMTA He has written number of Technical books mainly on Textiles and Management and nontechnical books in Kannada. As an expert, he has guided number of universities and colleges in introducing new courses, developing curricula, setting the syllabus, preparing text books, developing faculty, guiding students for project works, and valuating the projects. He has also guided number of industries in getting ISO 9001. He has developed "Five Golden Questions" applicable at all times for all organizations. Developed unique method of measuring maturity of implementation of Quality Management System with 500 points in 2008 - adopted as a base by ISO 9004 in 2009 for developing international standards. Has incorporated the logic of GOD in Quality Management Systems and propagated India as the cradle for Quality Management Systems. March - April 2014

There are number of reasons for one to work. However, the purpose of working shall be served if both self and the management are happy with the work being done. The question is when they will be happy. What makes people happy? What makes people happy? What makes people happy is a million dollar question. Some say if they get enough, they shall be happy. The word enough has no limit or clear definition. Some are interested in living peacefully with family members without any disputes or fights, everything going smoothly like the education of children, marriages, festivals and so on. Some are particular about having an identity of achieving something or owning something that is unique. It may be in terms of skills, talent, position, wealth, power, and so on. However, it is very difficult to accept whether that person is really happy, as that happiness in momentary. A person can be happy for a moment and not all the time. Some might have more such moments compared someone having less. However, if we are living well with our stakeholders, we can be happier. Who are our stakeholders? Elders Our parents The one who brought us up The one who supported us The one who is caring us The one who is proud of us Our stakeholders The one depending on us. The one looking for us. The one eagerly waiting for us. The one loving us. The one who needs us. 367

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Mr. B Purushothama

Why are we working? All are working for their livelihood, i.e. to get food, clothing and shelter for self as well for their family people. We also work for the same. We work to uplift the level of our family and bring the family members up. Few people say that they are working for their happiness, as they can forget all their worries when working. Some claim that they are working for the industry, they want industry to flourish and more and more people get benefit out of it. Some others see it as working for the country. They say "If my company comes up, my country will grow. My fellow countrymen shall get benefit. My country shall get funds by foreign exchange and taxes."

TEXPERIENCE Our stake holders include our parents, relatives, friends, teachers, supporters, society, employer and the government. They have looked after us when we were small and fully dependent on others. Parents have sacrificed everything in their life just to bring us up and see we prosper. Relatives and friends have always given support in our activities and made us grow. The company where we work has not only provided a job to look after us and our family, but also has given an opportunity to learn and gain experience. The gurus not only in school, but also in work and society have given us knowledge and education with or without their knowledge, and in number of times without anticipating anything from us. The society around us is supporting us to grow and protecting us from various dangers. It is our duty to see that our stakeholders are kept happy so that we can be happy.

them; but at least we can try to understand the situation and work accordingly. In majority of times, it is the illusion which is misguiding us. Let us understand the reality, and then automatically we can be calm and peaceful. What is that reality? People around me are all human beings like me. They have the same type of desires and ambitions as I am having. They are also struggling to be happy as I am struggling. If I think whatever I am doing is correct, they also think whatever they are doing is correct. I love myself and they love themselves. I have a family and I love them; they also have a family and they love them. I want to prosper and they also want to prosper. In the industry, where we are working, there are number of people, all with different ambitions and mind set because of their own unique experiences. If we have to be successful, we need to take them all together. All are trying for the same as all are interested in the industry to prosper, but majority are failing as they are not able to really take the people together. We need to learn the way of understanding the people and taking them with us.

Calm and Peace Calm and peace in life is the most important requirement of any human being. We struggle and earn money to get calm and peace in life; but how much we need to earn to get them is not yet answered. One thing is certain that, if we are calm and do the work, the quality of the work will be good. So we should learn to be calm and work peacefully.

Some of the illusions There are some illusions in the mind of the people. Let us discuss on some of them.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

What are all the distracters of calm and peace? Normally we point others as the reason for this. ◆

Someone is earning more money by doing less work compared to me.

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Someone is more popular than me.

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Someone is getting more respect than me.

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Someone is liked more than me.

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Someone is watching me.

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Someone is bossing over me.

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Someone is hindrance in achieving my targets.

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Someone has not developed the systems for me to achieve the results.

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Someone has not developed the device for me to work successfully.

Boss is bad : It is a normal observation in any company that boss is demanding and the followers are struggling to meet the demands of the boss. The boss may be over demanding, but why? Boss feels that if he has to survive he should show the result, but he really does not know the way of getting result. He thinks that by demanding, people have to work and finally he will get the result. Sometimes boss gets the result, as people try and find the solutions to their problems as they need to survive. The psychologists say that a normal man uses only 15% to 20% of his brain and remaining are left unused. In the time of crisis, the other part starts working and we find remedies. But if we keep people always under tension, they will get fed up and may become dull stating that there was no use in struggling hard and giving results for this boss. The boss may not be really bad, but the approach he adopted for getting the results is not in line with our way of thinking.

Our elders have identified six enemies of a human being as "Kama, Krodha, Lobha, Moha, Mada and Matsarya". We all know it is very difficult to win over

Owner is enjoying when we are toiling : This is a normal belief, which is supported by media, movie 368

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TEXPERIENCE makers, politicians and union leaders to take the workers to their side. When we make analysis we find something different picture. So many times I ask people as to how much money is required to keep them happy provided they are not to have any responsibility. The people give figures from Rs 20000 to Rs 50000 per month depending on their thinking level. Even if we consider that Rs 50000 per month as fixed income and no accountability, the same can be achieved by keeping around Rs 6,000,000 in fixed deposit. If that was the only motto of mill owners, why they should invest crores and crores on machinery, building and establish a mill and employ so many people. Further, after investing such a huge amount, they are having sleepless nights and cannot take even food in time. Why they should struggle so much if they were interested in only enjoyment? They have a different motto. They feel happy when people say that they are great achievers, because of them so many families are getting daily bread. If enjoyment was the only motto, they would have kept one or two crores in bank and spent their whole life with the interest they earn. Even by just renting some of their property for some banks or other business, they can get that Rs 50000 per month without any headache. So the statement that owners are leading a happy life while employees are struggling is baseless. In realty the employees are in need of their livelihood and running the factory successfully is more important for them. Therefore as employees we should work for making our company efficient and competitive.

Our systems are useless : I have heard this being told even by the managing director and chairman of big companies. The question comes as to who should set up the system. If you know what should be the system, then establish and implement it. In number of cases, the people see the results of benchmarking companies and expect their staff to achieve that without understanding their own role in making that happen. If the top man does not stand as a role model for implementing systems, how that company can have systems?

Staffs are useless : It is a normal statement made by number of management in general. They expect their staff to think and act in the same way as they are doing. The basic question comes as to who appointed those staff if they were useless. It is the same managers, who conducted number of tests and interviews and selected the best from among the available. When I have appointed the best according to me then how he can be useless? It is me who do not know how to mould that person for my way of approach. One should understand that if the assistant was as capable as him, by now he would have overtaken him and become his competitor. As far as someone is at lower level, their thinking and approach also shall be of that level. If I want him to take all my responsibilities, then I need to spend my time in training and grooming that person. So many times, the seniors do not do this and they want the juniors to learn by themselves when they are not exposed to that situation.

In textile industry also we produce so many varieties, but the same becomes routine in a short time. Whatever may be a new achievement becomes routine in the next time. Hence blaming something as routine is not correct. The success of a person lies in how best he is in doing his routine activities rather than making a one time achievement.

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Stress at work place When we are working with some target in mind, we get stressed. The target might have been fixed by self or by someone else. We find short of time, short of ideas, short of required material, material not available in time, no clear approach to achieve the result, inadequate support and so many problems. When we get stressed, our efficiency comes down, creativity loses track and we might fail in spite of all our good efforts. This leads to frustrations. 369

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It is daily same routine : This is a normal statement by many of the people in the industry. Everyone is interested in achieving something special rather than doing routine repetitive jobs. If my customers are insisting on consistency in the products we supply, then our working should be to achieve that. A train moves successfully on rails and if it leaves that route, it is going to derail. We should be proud of giving that result which is consistent. We can do innovations to make it consistent, but are not supposed to leave the routine just because it is boring. One should love the job he is doing and get pleasure in achieving this or accomplishing it. Let us understand the law of nature. There, in spite of so many diversifications the routines are there for everything. Sun rises daily in the same direction and sets almost after same number of hours. Same is the fate with moon, earth, seasons, and so on. As human beings, we are adapting their fixed routine as our base for achieving our results. One who knows how to live with nature can never get bored.

TEXPERIENCE There are number of ill effects of stress while working, which not only affects mentally but also affects the health. Number of diseases like improper blood pressure, heart attacks, diabetes, paralysis, depression etc., is some of the examples.

of the delays in this process of approving the samples, the mill technicians and workers have to struggle day and night and work extra hours. The customers should know how to give specification so that the mill can manufacture exactly as per that. The customers should visit the supplier, understand their capabilities, and after understanding the strengths and weaknesses of the supplier they should place the orders. Unfortunately majority of the customers have no time to do any home work, but they want quick results to be competitive in the market, a unique product at a lower price. 3. In number of mills, because of short term policies of management, like not making the employees permanent, not providing leave, making people work for 12 hours a day instead of recruiting required number of people, not providing any facilities for the workers to live peacefully with their family members, they are facing the problem of very high rate of employee attrition. The marketing and customers cannot understand this, but demand the quality and production at par with a competitor, who has all good system and is well set. The production staff and H.R.D staff have to undergo stress. 4. Highly volatile raw material base, uncertain power supply, sudden and steep increase in prices of petrol diesel and other commodities, fluctuations in rupee value adds to the stress for the people in the industry. The investors are not bothered about all these, but want their dividends and share of returns. The normal statement they make is "You are supposed to plan in advance and take suitable preventive actions. You are paid for that." 5. Over and above all there are so many factors like inter union rivalry, inter management rivalry, unjustified demands by the government officials for their personal benefits, pressures from the political parties for favouring them, etc.

The main reasons for stress at work are: a. not planning the time and allotting time for different activities, b. starting the work without proper planning, c. not doing the works as per planned arrangements, d. taking shortcuts and jumping steps, e. changing plans in between, f. not prioritising the activities, g. not deciding the priorities, h. not preparing self to do the work as per plan, i. not preparing the subordinates before taking up the work, j. not understanding the steps in the procedure before starting the work k. not anticipating problems and failures l. not getting equipped to face the problems m. not practicing in proper method n. not following the routine activities religiously o. attempting to a work without developing capability p. fixing a target without understanding the process q. fixing a target without understanding the capability r. accepting a forced target, and so on.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

There are so many reasons either directly linked or not linked to the person taking stress. Let us take some of the examples of a textile mill. 1. Marketing is given a target of getting orders. They can get orders provided they commit for the delivery period and the price dictated by the customer. So marketing commits for the price and delivery schedule without understanding whether the company has the capability or not. Once the order is taken, the technicians and workers are forced to adhere to the agreement and deliver the materials. 2. Customer places order and gives a deadline for delivery. The mill has the capability to meet the deadline as per calculations and lead time, but the customer wants to see the sample and approve. In the process of preparing sample, sending it for approval and customer giving approval, the mills would have completed half of the order. Because

Whatever may be the reason, when we are working in the industry and if we want to be successful, we should know the way to overcome the stress. We should learn to balance ourselves. How to reduce the stress while on work There are number of ways suggested by various people. One of the best methods is to follow our common sense rather than depending on others. The following are some of the ways. 370

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TEXPERIENCE Design each process or work by proper thinking. Understand the requirements, your capabilities, the strengths and weaknesses, available technology and the support you are getting and then design the work. Chances of failures will be less. When failures are less, the stress also shall be less.

You as well as your team shall be having known common objective, their minds will be working to achieve the goal; so the load is not only on you. All are sharing their views and supporting you to achieve the goal. It reduces the tension to a great extent. If you are not transparent and keeping your ideas with you and not sharing anything with your subordinates, they shall concentrate only on killing the time leaving all the stress to you alone.

Understand the minimum time required for each element of the work and provide that much time. If you do not give the required minimum time for an element of work, that work cannot be done properly, and shall result in a failure. For example, if a chemical process requires 50 minutes, I have to give those 50 minutes. I cannot remove the batch before that.

In good companies where Quality Management Systems are effectively implemented, all procedures are documented and available to all concerned, all are trained adequately in performing their jobs, they are empowered to take decisions within the authorities given to them and understanding their responsibilities. This reduces the burden on heads of the department and top management, and they can sit calmly and think of improvements and plan for the same. Where the systems are not transparent, people will be always engaged in fire fighting, and they can never have stress free atmosphere.

Adapt transparency in systems Having transparency in systems is one of the best ways of reducing stress at work. As the systems are transparent there shall be very few issues leading to uncertainty, and hence anxiety shall be less. Let us discuss this point more in detail, as I have seen that in number of mills, the owners as well as technicians are little bit fussy in having transparency in their work. They still feel that they are maintaining certain trade secrets and do not want others to learn and copy. But they forget that their staff and even the top managers are not sticking to their company and staff attrition is very high. In recent days, even workmen attrition also has increased. In such a situation, there is no meaning of any secrecy. Further the advancement in technology and integration of information technology has made people accessible to information. When that is the case, keep everything open so that people can refer to your standard procedures and work as per that and maintain records as needed by you so that you can always verify and take decisions.

The Quality Management Systems insist identifying the required competency for doing a job and engaging competent people for it. This ensures achieving the results. When the results are achieved, normally the morale increases and attrition reduces. By keeping correct person for the job and empowering him, and recognising the efforts rather than the result shall make the people to stick to the company, which is one of the main requirement for reducing stress on the job.

Numbers of people are afraid of auditors as they highlight the nonconformities. What is there to be afraid? If I avoid medical check-up stating that the report may indicate some disease, who is the looser? The disease, if it is identified, at least some effort can be made to cure it rather than not knowing that I have a disease and succumbing to it. The internal auditors not only bring the problem to surface, but also shall work in eliminating it either directly or indirectly as they are all a part of your team.

Managing resources is more important than providing resources. Where resources are given and the management of the resources is not proper, we may not get the results, but the tension shall increase as the management who financed shall be asking for the results for the amount spent by them. Therefore one should first learn to take best out of the available resources and then demand for additional. This shall

Quality Management Systems insist on defining the purpose for which you are working and devising a method to perform that job to achieve the objective. March - April 2014

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As the check points are defined, and checklists are developed, number of problems are eliminated in the beginning itself. When the problems are eliminated, automatically the stress will be less and one can enjoy the work he is doing. Further the system of maintaining records help in analysing the trends and problems to take correct decisions based on facts, rather than taking an ad hoc decision and then repenting for the same after losing.

TEXPERIENCE develop a confidence in the management and they shall support even if there is some lacuna. The stress shall be less.

producing a sample with utmost care, showing all the certificates etc., can help in getting an order, but not in keeping that customer with us on long term. Our Quality Assurance people, who often claim of 100% inspection, shall be inspecting the material visibly once, but my customer is testing the product by using it, not once but throughout its life. He judges our quality and culture much better than our highly qualified quality controllers or advertising agency boasting our success. Therefore, if we can win the customer by giving the product of his requirement, he has to come to us. This reduces the stress on the staff and management to a very great extent.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Quality Management systems suggest having a free and open dialogue with customers and understanding their requirements, and at the same time explain your strengths and limitations and come to an agreement which is favourable to both of you. In textiles, it is normally seen that the marketing people are not at all aware of the strength and weaknesses of the company, and further they are instructed not to tell any weakness of the company, but tell only the strengths so that orders can be taken. Only telling the strengths,

Published regularly since 1939 Subscribe Today 372

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TEXNOTE

A Series of Papers on Biotechnology and its Application in Textiles The series of chapters under the title, 'Biotechnology and its application in textiles' will be published in this Journal of the Textile Association over the next year or so, will introduce the basics of biotechnology, industrially useful biotechnologically derived products, their areas of application in textiles and recent advances in biotechnology for textiles. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested in or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of biotechnology and its application in textiles. The First Chapter is intended to serve as an introductory text for those who wish to expand their understanding of biotechnology.

Chapter 5 :Antimicrobial finishes and testing methods Manasi A. Damle, Madhura P. Nerurkar, Ravindra V. Adivarekar Textiles have been a part and parcel of human civilization since ages. Clothing is the main purpose for which textile sector is known for, but apart from that, textiles have been looked upon into different sectors such as medical textile, sport textile, technical textile etc. In the recent years textile research is more focussed to impart functional properties in addition to increasing aesthetics and comfort of a textile substrate. Now a days people do not consider textiles just for its basic purpose i.e. clothing, but are inclining more towards the other value added properties like, fragrance finishes, anti-microbial finishes, fire-retardant finish, etc. The protective aspects of textile have provided new grounds for innovative developments in the field of hygiene.

are now increasingly aware of the hygienic life style and there is a necessity and expectation for a wide range of textile products finished with antimicrobial properties. The term antimicrobial encompasses agents that act against specific group of microorganisms. Thus antimicrobial finish applied to textiles protects both textile substrate and user. Antimicrobial finished textiles find application in sport textile, medical textile bandages, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.

Microorganisms are ubiquitous in nature and are present on human body which are termed as normal flora. Damp, Humid and warm environment provides suitable conditions for microorganisms to flourish. Rapid and uncontrolled growth of microorganisms hampers hygiene and personal health. Natural textile fibres act as readily available substrate for growth of microorganisms. Uncontrolled growth of microbes on textile substrates leads to increase in bio burden levels.

Texttreasure

Microorganisms cause problems with textile raw materials and processing chemicals, wet processes in the mills, roll or bulk goods in storage, finished goods in storage and transport and goods as the consumer uses them. Microbial growth on textiles triggers degradation of textile leading to microbial stains and discolouration of textile. It also generates unpleasant odours, skin infections and allergies. The consumers March - April 2014

Right education should help the student, not only to develop his capacities, but to understand his own highest interest - J. Krishnamurti

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Depending on microorganism targeted and type of activity, antimicrobial agents are classified as follows; Bactericidal agents: Completely kill bacteria Bacteriostatic agents: Inhibits growth of bacteria Fungicidal agents: kill fungal growth Fungistatic agents: Inhibits fungal growth Different types of chemicals have been used for imparting antimicrobial property. Some of the agents and their mode of action are as listed in following table;

TEXNOTE Sr. No

Chemicals

Mode of antimicrobial action

Oxidizing agents such as aldehydes, halogens

Attack the cell membrane, get into the cytoplasm and affect the enzymes of the microorganisms

Coagulants, primarily alcohols

Irreversibly denature proteins

Radical formers like halogens, isothiazones and peroxo compounds

React with all organic structures in particular ; oxidizing thiols in amino acids, nucleic acids by triggering mutations and dimerization

Diphenyl ether (bis-phenyl) derivative known as either 2, 4, 4'-trichloro-2' hydroxy dipenyl ether or 5-chloro-2-(2,4-dichlorophenoxyl) phenol

Use an electrochemical mode of action to penetrate and disrupt microbial cell walls.

Quaternary ammonium compounds, biguanides, amines and glucoprotamine

Attack cell membrane, disrupt the lipo polysaccharide structure

Complexing metallic compounds based on metals like cadmium, silver, copper and mercury

Inhibition of the active enzyme centers (inhibition of metabolism)

not migrate off but destroy the bacteria coming in contact with the surface of the garment. The chemical gets attached to the substrate either by chemical bounding or by polymerizing, forming a layer on the surface of the treated fabric. Hence the finishing will be permanent and will remain effective for a substantial length of time. The finish may withstand for more than 40 laundry washes.

Different plants such as Neem, Tulsi, Harda, Behda are known for their antimicrobial properties. Today the research is focussed on extraction of bioactive component from plant extracts which possesses antimicrobial property and its application to fabric. Types of antimicrobials

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

These are of two types: 1. Leaching type 2. Non- Leaching type

Antimicrobial Finish should possess following properties; ◆ Durability to washing, dry cleaning and hot pressing ◆ Selective activity to undesirable microorganisms ◆ Should not produce harmful effects to the manufacturer, user and the environment ◆ Should comply with the statutory requirements of regulating agencies ◆ Compatibility with the chemical processes ◆ Easy method of application ◆ No deterioration of fabric quality ◆ Resistance to body fluids ◆ Resistance to disinfections/sterilization

1. Leaching Type These types of antimicrobials diffuse from the textile substrate into medium, such that growth of the microorganisms coming in contact with the leached product gets inhibited. Some companies incorporate leaching antimicrobial compound into fibres and control the release rate to extend shelf life of the antimicrobial agent or even add them to chemical binders. Also these types of compounds are directly incorporated into fabric; such fabrics are termed as bioactive fabric. Leaching type of antimicrobials show poor durability and may cause health problems. It must be ensured that these substances are not only permanently effective but also that they are compatible with skin and the environment.

The antimicrobial agents can be applied to the textile substrates by exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray and foam techniques or by direct addition to spinning solution. Testing of antimicrobials applied to textiles is essential so as to determine its effectiveness against different bacteria and fungi and also to check durability

2. Non-Leaching Type These antimicrobials being bound to the garment do 374

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TEXNOTE Test specimen: Rectangular specimen (25mm × 50 mm)

of an applied finish. Different tests are proposed under different International standards to determine the effectiveness of an antimicrobial finish on textile products.

Methodology: From inoculum of cultures to be used parallel streaks are made on sterile nutrient agar plate. In aseptic manner test specimen is kept in direction perpendicular to streaks made. After Incubation at 37°C for 18-24 hrs, plates are observed for zone of inhibition.

To measure the efficacy of antimicrobial treated textiles, test methods used under controlled conditions are needed for reproducible results. These tests must accelerate the process of microbial growth to allow results to be seen in a timely fashion. Standard test methods that have been developed, peer reviewed, published, and reproduced by different laboratories fall into two categories, quantitative and qualitative. Quantitative methods involve actual microbe enumeration, with results reported as a percent or log reduction in the contamination level.

Evaluation: The average width of a zone of inhibition along a streak on either side of the test specimen may be calculated using the following equation: W = (T - D)/2 where: W = width of clear zone of inhibition in mm T = total diameter of test specimen and clear zone in mm D = diameter of the test specimen in mm This is a widely used method for initial screening of different antimicrobial agents applied on textile materials

Qualitative methods are subjective, using ratings and measured zones of inhibition. This article will describe key efficacy tests used in the textile industry American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) have determined three test methods to evaluate efficiency of antimicrobial finish.

Limitations: flexibility of retrieval at different contact times, use of inappropriately applied static conditions, less sensitivity, and poor reproducibility

AATCC 147 (Parallel streak method)

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Quick, easy to execute qualitative method.

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Determines antibacterial activity of diffusible antimicrobial agents on treated textile material.

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A rough estimate of antibacterial activity is obtained as the growth of the inoculum organism decreases from one end of each streak to the other and from one streak to the next, resulting in increasing degrees of sensitivity.

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The size of the zone of inhibition and the narrowing of the streaks caused by the presence of the antibacterial agent permit an estimate of the residual antibacterial activity after multiple washings.

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Measures a clear area of interrupted growth underneath and along the sides of the test material Microorganism: Antibacterial tests are performed against representative gram positive and gram negative microorganism namely Staphylococcus aureus, ATCC No. 6538 and Klebsiella pneumoniae, ATCC No. 4352

2. ◆

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Methodology: 24 hr old inoculum is inoculated on sterile test specimen in conical flask followed by addition of 100 ml of sterile saline as soon as possible (0 contact time). Contents of the flask are mixed vigorously for 1 minute and plated on st. nutrient agar plate. Last 3 dilution give countable colonies (Dilutions of 10-4, 10-5, and 10-6). The flasks, from which dilutions were carried out, were incubated for 24 hrs at 37°C and the same test procedure is repeated to determine antibacterial activity after 24 hr contact time. Same procedure is carried out for control sample (sample without antimicrobial finish but finished with other chemicals if any).

Other suitable species can also be used depending on the intended end-use of the test sample. March - April 2014

AATCC 100 A quantitative procedure for the evaluation of the degree of antibacterial activity. It evaluates bactericidal activity. Adequately sensitive and reproducible. Test specimen and microorganisms are same as mentioned in AATCC test method 147.

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXNOTE Evaluation: Calculate percent reduction of bacteria by the specimen treatments by one of the following formulas: 1) 100 (B - A)/B = R Where: R = % reduction A = the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar incubated over the desired contact period B = the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contact time) 2) 100 (C - A)/C = R Where: C = the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated untreated control specimen swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contact time) If "B and C" are not similar, the larger number should be used. If "B" and "C"are not significantly different, (B + C)/2 should be used as follows: 3) 100(D - A/D) = R Where: D = (B + C)/2 If an untreated control is not available, use the following calculation which allows for any background organisms that might interfere with the test. Bg = 100 [(B - E) - (A - F)/B - E] Where: A, B = (see earlier) E = the number of bacteria initially recovered from the uninoculated treated test sample (existing background organisms) F = the number of bacteria recovered from the uninoculated, pre-wet treated test sample after incubation in the jar over the desired contact period (existing background organisms after contact period) Bg = background organisms Report percent reduction of bacteria by the specimen under test against each test organism used.

to mildew and rot. ◆ Evaluates fungicidal activity. Mildew leads to development of unsightly fungal growths and accompanying unpleasant, musty odors on textiles whereas Rot refers to fungal growth on or in textile material. The two important considerations when evaluating textile materials in relation to fungal growth are the actual deterioration of the textile product (rot), and growth not necessarily deteriorating the product but making it unsightly (mildew) often with an unpleasant and musty odour. Under AATCC 30 method, there are four tests, Tests I, II, III and IV which can be used, singly or in combination, depending on the type of exposure to which the textile material will be subjected. Test I: Rot resistance of material that will come in contact with soil Treated and control samples are buried in soil bed which is prepared as per protocol. Incubation periods can vary from 2-16 weeks, depending on severity of service requirements, and other factors of importance to the interested parties. The temperature is maintained at 28±1°C during the test period. Evaluation Strength loss determination Remove specimens, gently wash with water, dry at room temperature for 22 ± 4 h and then condition in an atmosphere of 64 ± 2% humidity and a temperature of 24 ± 3°C for 24 h. Determine breaking strength by the method outlined in ASTM D 5035 which is Standard Test method for breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. Report the length of exposure to the soil bed, percent retained breaking strength when compared to the unexposed textile, any pre-exposure of specimens before burying and percent retained breaking strength of untreated specimen.

Limitation: Method is Cumbersome and time consuming for routine quality control and screening tests.

TestII: Agar plate, Chaetomium Globosum This procedure is used for evaluating rot resistance of cellulose-containing textile materials that will not come in contact with soil.

3.) AATCC 30 Determines the susceptibility of textile materials

◆

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TEXNOTE Inoculum preparation:

Test IV: Humidity Jar, Mixed Spore Suspension

Place St. filter paper disk on st. Mineral salt agar medium plate and streak the filter paper with spores of Chaetomium Globosum. Incubate at 28 ± 1°C for 1014 days. Add filter paper to st. D/W containing glass beads and shake vigorously.

This test method is designed to determine the fungistatic effectiveness of treatments intended to control mildew and non-pathogenic fungal growth on articles or surfaces composed of textile materials intended for outdoor and above ground use and which are usually waterproofed.

Inoculation Treated and untreated, nutrient saturated strips of fabric are sprayed with a mixed spore suspension of mildew causing organisms and incubated at 90 ± 2% relative humidity. Mildew growth on treated and untreated strips is rated at weekly intervals for up to four weeks. Microorganisms: Aspergillus niger, ATCC No. 6275. Penicillium varians, ATCC No.10509. Trichoderma viride, ATCC No. 28020

Prewet specimen in water containing 0.05% of a nonionic wetting agent and then place it in contact with st. Mineral salt agar medium. Distribute 1.0 ml of inoculum evenly on specimen. Set up a control specimen in similar manner. Strength loss evaluation: It is carried out as determined in test I. Report the extent of fungal growth on the discs, using a microscope (50X) wherever necessary.

Preparation of test specimens: Test III: Agar Plate, Aspergillus Niger Certain fungi, of which Aspergillus niger is one, can grow on textile products without causing measurable breaking strength loss within a laboratory experimental time frame. This procedure is used to evaluate textile specimens where growth of these fungi is important.

To ensure luxuriant growth, both the test and control strips must be saturated with a sterilized glycerol nutrient solution. Soak each strip in nutrient for three minutes or until saturated. Squeeze excess liquid and allow fabric strips to air dry before proceeding with application of test fungi. Pre-mix equal volumes of well agitated conidial suspensions of A. niger, T. viride and P. varians. Evenly distribute 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of the above suspension onto both sides of each specimen either by spraying or by means of a pipette.

Test specimen: 3.8 ± 0.5 cm (1.5 ± 0.2 in.) diameter discs from both treated and untreated samples. Microorganism: Aspergillus niger, American Type Culture Collection No. 6275. Culture medium: Czapek (Dox) Agar and Sabouraud Dextrose Agar.

Suspend fabric strips using plastic paper clips or nylon thread from the caps of individual jars containing 90 ± 3 mL of water each. Hook position must be adjusted so that the bottom ends of attached strips are all at a uniform height above the water level. The caps are tightened, and then backed off one-eighth turn to allow for some ventilation. Incubate at 28 ± 1°C for 14 days (for non-coated cellulosic textiles) or 28 days (for noncellulosic or coated cellulosic textiles).

Methodology: Distribute evenly 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of the inoculum over the surface of the agar. Pre-wet the discs (but do not rub or squeeze) in water containing 0.05% of a nonionic wetting agent and place on the agar surface. Distribute evenly over each disc 0.2 ± 0.01 mL of the inoculum by means of a sterile pipette. Incubate all specimens at a temperature of 28 ± 1°C for 14 days.

Evaluation Evaluation: Report the percentage of surface area of the discs covered with the growth of Aspergillus niger, using a microscope (50X) wherever necessary.

March - April 2014

A record of the percent of surface area covered with fungal growth for each strip is made at weekly intervals, or until heavy growth occurs on each sample replicate. 377

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Methodology:

TEXNOTE Use a microscope (50X) where necessary. After seven days each control strip must show macroscopic growth. If this is not the case repeat the test since test conditions were not valid. Strength loss determination can be carried out as determined in test I.

only" flask, as specified in the method, should be tracked alongside all treated and untreated samples with each test, to ensure there is no bactericidal effect resulting from the non-nutritive test buffer or due to surfactants added for wetting.

4.) AATCC 174: Antimicrobial Activity Assessment of Carpets This test method is designed to determine the antimicrobial activity of new carpet materials and consists of three procedures; 1. A qualitative antibacterial assessment. 2. A quantitative antibacterial assessment. 3. A qualitative antifungal assessment. Assesment is carried out using methodology mentioned in AATCC test method 147, 100 and 30 respectively.

Evaluation: Reduction, % (CFU/ml) = [(B - A)/ B] * 100 Death Rate Constant (mean log10 density) = B - A Where: A = CFU per milliliter (or mean log10 density of bacteria) for the flask containing the treated substrate after the specified contact time, and B = "0" contact time CFU per milliliter (or mean log10 density of bacteria) for the flask used to determine "A" before the addition of the treated substrate.

5) ASTM E 2149

The count for the control flask, containing only inoculum, after specified contact time (C) and count for the other control flask containing the untreated specimen after specified contact time (D) should be within 15 %. If they are not, calculate the percent reduction of organisms from treated sample (A) directly compared to the untreated control (D). Repeat above formula replacing D for B and report accordingly. where:

◆

This test method is designed to evaluate the resistance of non-leaching antimicrobial treated specimens to the growth of microbes under dynamic contact conditions. Test method ensures good contact between the bacteria and the treated fiber, fabric or other substrate by constant agitation of the test specimen in a bacterial suspension during the test period. The test is suitable for evaluating stressed or modified specimens when accompanied by adequate controls. The antimicrobial activity of a substrate-bound antimicrobial is dependent upon direct contact of microbes with the active chemical agent.

C = CFU per milliliter (or mean log10 density of bacteria) for control flask, containing only inoculum after specified contact time, and D = CFU per milliliter (or mean log10 density of bacteria) for other control flask containing the untreated substrate after the specified contact time.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Microorganism: As reported for AATCC 100 method Test specimen Fabric and Paper-Samples are selected on weight basis at the discretion of the investigator and weighed to 0.1g

Limitation: The conditions of the Shake Flask Method, wherein a small piece of fabric is suspended in a large amount of fluid and then this fluid sample being analysed do not replicate real-life use conditions.As a result, the test is not widely accepted by professionals as an indicator of efficacy.

Methodology: This test determines the antimicrobial activity of treated specimen by shaking samples of surface bound materials in a concentrated bacterial suspension for a one hour contact time or other contact times as specified by the investigator. The suspension is serially diluted both before and after contact and cultured. The number of viable organisms in the suspension is determined and the percent reduction is calculated based on initial counts or on retrievals from appropriate untreated controls. It is recommended that an untreated control be tested in parallel to ensure a valid test and to run the test in triplicate. The "inoculum

6) JIS L 1902 The JIS L1902 is a quantitative method for testing antimicrobial property of fabrics. This test method is designed to evaluate the Antimicrobial activity of fabrics treated with antimicrobial agents to prevent microbial growth and to kill microorganisms over a 24 hour contact period.

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TEXNOTE

2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Evaluation:

Test and Control sample pieces are inoculated with microbial culture suspension calibrated to specific concentration. The inoculated samples are incubated at around 37째C for 18 h. Experiment is run in triplicate. Microbial concentration is determined at "zero h" by elution and standard microbiology techniques. After incubation the microbial count is determined. The reduction of microorganisms' relative to the initial concentration is calculated and represented as log reduction of percentage reduction.

% Reduction = [(Bacteria cfu/mL @ T=0) - (Bacteria cfu/mL @ T=designated contact time)

(Bacteria cfu/mL @ T=0)]x 100.

Contact time : 0 and 4 hours at 370C. Thus different antimicrobial tests are available for testing effectiveness of antimicrobial finish on textile substrate. Depending on requirement, ease of method, efficiency and reproducibility particular test can be selected for testing.

The method includes a "pass/fail" criterion for the calculated antimicrobial activity.The method is quantitative and generally reproducible. JIS L 1902 is the most universally accepted bacterial efficacy test in the textile Industry. JIS L 1902 was developed in Japan for testing silver-based antimicrobials. It primarily differs from AATCC TM100 in that the nutrient level in the inoculum broth is diluted to 1:20. JIS L 1902 also is explicit about calculating results for treated products versus those for untreated controls and calls for testing in triplicate. The standard for a valid test is that there should be at least a 1.5 log increase on the untreated control.

Prior chapters in the biotech series threw light upon different areas of biotechnology in textile namely different useful products from microbes, use of enzymes in textile industry and this chapter described antimicrobial finishes to textile and testing methods to asses testing efficiency of antimicrobial finished textile. Upcoming chapter will focus on new developments in textile biotechnology. References 1. 2.

The low nutrient level for JIS L 1902 biases testing to provide more positive results for antimicrobials such as silver and cationic antimicrobials, which can be neutralized by proteins in the nutrient.

7) ISO 20743

It is quantitative test methods to determine the antibacterial activity of antibacterial finished textile products including nonwovens.

Test Organism: Methicillin Resistant Staphylococcus aureus ATCC No. 33591.

Sample Size: Test material cut to a mass of approx 0.40 g each.

Textsmile

Methodology: A standardized culture of the test bacteria is inoculated directly onto test samples in a sealed vial. Test samples are incubated at 35+1oC in a humidity chamber for the designated contact time, after which the surviving bacteria are shaken out into a 20 ml volume of neutralizing buffer. Surviving bacteria were enumerated using serial dilution culture method. March - April 2014

AATCC technical manual, vol 82, 2007 Gopalakrishnan D.& Aswini R. K., antimicrobial finishesDepartment of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore Roy M. Broughton, Jr., S. D. Worley, Unchin Cho and Jian Lin, Gang Sun, Incorporation of Antimicrobial Materials in Fabric Sun; G and Xu; X, "Processes for Preparing Microbiocidal Textiles" U. S. Patent 6,077,319 June 20, 2000 Hamlin, Mary, "Finishes For Cellulosic Textiles Giving Permanent Protection against Microbiological Attack-A Survey of the Literature", Journal of the Textile Institute 44(11)p 745-753 (1953). Marsh, J. T. An Introduction to Textile Finishing Chapman and Hall, London 1966, pp507- 524.

A teacher is talking to a student. Teacher: Did your father help you with your homework? Student: No, he did it all by himself. 379

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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March - April 2014

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Platinum Jubilee Celebration (1939-2014)

On 9th April 2014, The Textile Association (India) has celebrated its 75th Birth Anniversary - The Platinum Jubilee, at Emperor Hall, Hotel Kohinoor Park, Opp. Siddhi Vinayak Temple, Prabhadevi, Mumbai during which a befitting program was held under the able leadership of the National President of TAI, Mr. D.R. Mehta. The Textile Association (India) is the foremost leading and largest national body among other several professionals of textile in India, striving for the growth of India's largest single Textile Industry for over 7 decades. It is established before 75 years on 09th April, 1939 and as on today the Association has more than 23000 strong memberships with 26 affiliated Chapters, spread throughout the length and breadth of the country.

Central Office

Platinum Jubilee Celebration of TAI was great success by all standards. Very largely attended, hall was full, venue was jam packed. Nearly more than 350 members were gathered from all corners of India and overseas to participate in this Platinum Jubilee Celebration. All participants enjoyed great fellowship and exchange of information for mutual benefits. Many old stalwarts, members, friends met after many years and reviewed old acquaintances. It was great to note such a mammoth turnout-and one is tempted to glance back into history. Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President, The Textile Association (India) opened the conference with his powerful welcome address and mentioned that the Textile Association will continue with various objectives and will draw very large programme in the years to come.

Platinum Jubilee Celebration began with invocation of Sri Saraswati Vandana presented by 2 Students, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, Mumbai and Platinum Jubilee Powada presented by Mr. Vijay Choudhari. Further it was followed by traditional lightening of lamp by guests and dignitaries. At the inaugural session, the Chief Guest was Shri R.K. Dalmia, Shri R.D. Udeshi and Dr. Chadan Chatterjee were the Guest of Honor. Also Shri S.K. Khandelia, recipient of Industrial Excellence Award was the special invitee. As well Shri D.R. Mehta, National President, Dr. Anil Gupta, National Vice President, Shri K.D. Sanghvi, TAI Chairman and Shri V.D. Zope, TAI Hon. Gen. Secretary were present on the dais.

h R.K. Dalmia l l h h lamp l l h Shri lightening the along with other dignitaries

Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President presenting his welcome address Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President expressed that the "glorious journey of last 75 years is indeed a landmark occasion for The Textile Association (India) and it has given yeoman service to all important textile industry and trade. It will be our sincere effort to celebrate this Platinum Jubilee very joyfully by remembering all our Founding Fathers who were instrumental in establishing this Association". He also mentioned that after the World Textile Conference, the focus now is on Global Textile Congress in Bangkok which will be a great

Platinum Jubilee Celebration International event and Textile Association is ready to play a very important lead role in Global Textile Industry. He also committed the Textile Association (India) will have very powerful website and information bank which will provide latest information on day to day basis to the Industry at large. Shri D.R. Mehta also thanked Reliance Industries, Grasim, Century Textiles, Alok Industries etc for being great supporter to all the events of Textile Association.

Dr. Anil D A il Gupta, G t National N ti l Vice Vi President P id t delivering his speech

Mr. B.A. Shah

Mr. M.K. Mehra

Dr. Anil Gupta, National Vice President, while supporting the programmes of Shri D.R. Mehta, narrated the success story of the Textile Association so far. He briefed about TAI and its activities. Mr. J.B. Soma did beautiful and informative Power Point presentation on Glimpses of Glorious 75 years of TAI with memorable photographs. It was in need very great to know Prime Minister's, Financial Minister's and many top dignitaries had visited functions of Textile Association.

Mr. R.K. Dalmia

R l i Coffee C ff Table T bl Book B k Releasing

Dr. M.S. Mathivanan

Further, a Coffee Table Book, documenting the journey during last 75 years of Association, was released at the worthy hands of Chief Guest. Mr. J.B. Soma was instrumental in designing and conceptualizing this book with information and photographs.

The Textile Association (India) felicitated their Past Presidents Mr. B.A. Shah, Mr. M.K. Mehra, Mr. R.K. Dalmia and Dr. M.S. Mathivanan with TAI RATNA Award and Memento for their continuous services to the TAI and building an image and growth of the association.

Platinum Jubilee Celebration TAI RATNA Awards with the Tutari added a very lively touch to the celebrations.

Mr. S.K. Khandelia felicitated with Industrial Excellence Award Mr. K.D. Sanghvi, Chairman, introducing Chief Guest

After the introduction of Chief Guest by Mr. K.D. Sanghvi, Chairman, Shri R.K. Dalmiaji, Senior President, Birla Century shared his experience with Textile Association and he also shared his knowledge about the current event in the Textile Industry. He also narrated challenges and new opportunities emerging in recent times. However, he felt that youngsters should be given more and more opportunities.

Mr. R.L. Toshniwal expressing his views

Mr. R.L. Toshniwal thanked and congratulated the Textile Association (India) for their achievement and celebrating Platinum Jubilee.

Shri R.K. Dalmiaji addressing the gathering

While celebrating the Platinum Jubilee, TAI felicitated Mr. S.K. Khandelia, Group President, K.K. Birla Group of Textiles with Industrial Excellence Award in recognition of his significant excellent contribution for the growth of Textile Industry & meritorious services to the Textile Industry. Mr. S.K. Khandelia thanked the Textile Association (India) for honouring him and briefed about the current scenario of industry and challenges to be faced in the global market.

On behalf of Late Mr. G.N. Vaidya Mr. Suresh Vaidya (Son) receiving the TAI RATNA

O h lf off LLate t M T G Ch dh i On b behalf Mr. T.G. Choudhari Mr. Vijay Choudhari (Son) receiving the TAI RATNA

Platinum Jubilee Celebration Industry. He also suggested that Indian Textile Industry should rise to meet new challenges and avail new opportunities.

On behalf of Late Mr. R.P. Gupta Ms. Gupta (Wife) receiving the TAI RATNA

Dr. Chandan Chatterjee addressing the gathering

On behalf of Late Mr. Vijay A. Trivedi Mr. Hitesh Trivedi (Son) receiving the TAI RATNA

TAI also felicitated TAI RATNA Award to some of the senior members and the youth members who have dedicated their yeoman services to the association for itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growth and development. TAI also remembered their some of the founding fathers like Late Mr. G.N. Vaidya, Late Mr. T.G. Choudhari, Late Mr. D. Ramanna, Late Mr. R.P. Gupta and others, who are not now with us but felicitated with their next generation.

While addressing Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Director, CED & GM, Indextb (A Govt. of Gujarat Organization), appreciated the contribution of The Textile Association (India) in the growth of Textile Industry and mentioned that they should now focus on International events also. He stressed on the need to involve the youth in the textile chain to ensure fresh ideas and fast implementation. Dr. Chandan Chatterjee also mentioned regarding the favorable Industrial Environment in Gujarat.

Shri Suresh Vaidya briefing the remembrances of the Glorious Journey of TAI

Mr. R.D. Udeshi addressing the gathering

Guest of Honour Shri R.D. Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. Informed during his keynote address that business situation in China is changing and China is also facing labour & power shortage, increase in the cost etc which will provide new opportunities to Indian Textile

While briefing the remembrances of the Glorious Journey of TAI, Shri Suresh Vaidya informed the audience on how Textile Association is formed and its journey for 75 years. He directed many struggling incidents of Textile Association and how members and sponsors helped Textile Association during its initial days.

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

Mr. Arvind Sinha presenting his frankly speech for TAI

Mr. Arvind Sinha in his speach presented the vision path for Textile Association and the Textile Association for its role in growth of India and growth of Textile Industry in India. He also mentioned that new millennium has changed all business aspects and therefore the Textile Association also have to draw new path, meet new challenges and address new issues. He also mentioned that Global Textile Congress in Bangkok will be one such milestone which will bring lot of new directions and create new role for Textile Association.

Mr. kuldip M k ldi Sharma Sh expressing ssing his his views i s & impressions im ssio s

Shri M.K. Mehra also narrated many incidents of Textile Association, particularly one incident where full flight was chartered for Milan Textile Fair. It was great to know how our senior members like Mr. Suresh Vaidya and Shri M.K. Mehra and many others contributed for the growth of Textile Association. Mr. B.A. Shah, Mr. M.K. Mehra, Dr. M.S. Mathivanan and Mr. Kuldip Sharma expressed their views and impressions during open forum.

Mr. V.D. Zope, Hon. Gen. Secretary proposing vote of thanks Shri Sh i M.K. M K Mehra M h giving i i his hi remembrances b

Dr. M.S. Mathivanan giving his remembrances

At the end with vote of thanks by Mr. V.D. Zope, Hon. Gen. Secretary and National Anthem, Platinum Jubilee Celebration concluded with the hope for next Century celebration.

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. K.C. Kothawala

Mr. A.R. Garde

Mr. Ashwin Dalal

Mr. S.R. Bhave

On behalf of Mr. Anuj Bhagwati

Mr. R.S. Bachkaniwala

Mr. G.T. Dembla

Mr. Sanjiv Lathia

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. S.P. Gadge

Mr. B. Purushothama

Mr. P.G. Sukhatankar

Mr. S.G. Kamat

Mr. A.T. Shahani

On behalf of Late Mr. G.N. Vaidya

On behalf of Late Me. T.G. Choudhary

On behalf of Late Prof. R.P. Gupta

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

On behalf of Late Mr. P.S. Pawar

On behalf of Late Mr. V.A. Trivedi

Mr. T.K. Sengupta

Dr. Rishi Jamdagni

Mr. M.L. Bagaria

Mr. Sapan Mukerjee

Mr. S.K. Kalia

Mr. V.P. Gupta

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. S.K. Dhawan

Dr. Anil Gupta

Mr. K.D. Sanghvi

Mr. V.D. Zope

Mr. R.K. Vij

Mr. T.L. Patel

Mr. C. Bose

Mr. V.C. Gupte

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. Ashok Veda

Mr. T.L. Viswanathan

Mr. K.J. Patel

Mr. Haresh B. Parekh

Mr. V.N. Patil

Dr. M.D. Teli

Dr. H.V.S. Murthy

Mr. J.B. Soma

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. P.C. Purohit

Mr. K.L. Vidur

Mr. M.B. Nambiar

Mr. A.V. Mantri

Dr. Chandan Chatterjee

Mr. R.D. Udeshi

Mr. Suresh G. Vaidya

Mr. Arvind Sinha

Platinum Jubilee Celebration

MEMBERS FELICITATED WITH TAI RATNA AWARD

Mr. D.R. Mehta

Mr. Vithal Phondke

Mr. Vithal Mayekar

Mr. Anil Mahajan

Mr. Chand Shaikh

Also following members are felicitated Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar Mr. Ashok Juneja Prof. R. C. D. Kaushik Mr. R. G. Malvankar Mr. Rakesh Sharma Mr. R. G. Malvankar Mr. Rakesh Sharma Dr. P. R. Roy

Mr. R. C. Kesar Dr. M. L. Gulrajani Mr. P. S. Jain Mr. R. L. Kapoor Mr. I. M. Bhandari Late Mr. M.R. Mukharjee Late Mr. Rajanikant Sheth Late Mr. D. Ramanna

UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India) TAI - M.P. Republic Day Celebration The Textile Association (India) Madhya Pradesh Unit in association with Spinners Club has organized Republic Day Celebration on 25th January, 2014 at Hotel Shreemaya Celebrity, Indore on the occasion of 65th Indian Republic day.

Mr. N.S. Nirban, Mr. R.C. Gupta, Mr. Vilas Agrawal, Mr. Ashok Veda, Mr. S.K. Pandey, Mr. C.S. Hora, Mr. S. Bansal, Mr. Vinay Deora, Mr. Rajkumar Doshi, Mr. A. Sarkar, Mr. S.P. Bansal, Mr. M.C. Rawat, Mr. Abhay Jain, Mr. Ankit Veda Mr. Dipesh Agrawal, Mr. C.S. Mishra, Mr. Ravi Murumkar and other

Program was very well attended by many textile dignities. Vote of Thanks given by Mr. N.S. Nirban & program was followed by dinner.

Mr. Ashok Veda has welcomed all the guests with National Flag Batches & Tiranga Cap.

Celebrated the 63rd Anniversary

One of the main attractions of the Program was Patriotic musical show organized by the organization.

The Textile Association (India), West Bengal Unit Celebrated the 63rd Anniversary Programme on Saturday the 29th March 2014, along with one day Technological Conference on "Recent Developments in Textiles" at Kennedy Hall of Department of Jute & Fibre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, University of Calcutta, 35, Bally Gunge Circular Road, Kolkata - 700 019.

Marriage anniversary of Mr. & Mrs. Richa Veda, Mr. & Mrs. R.C. Gupta, Mr. & Mrs. Vilas Agrawal also celebrated during the program.

Welcome Address given by Sri Jiwraj Sethia, VicePresident TAI, W.B. Unit, Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, ViceChairman - TAI Central Unit, Mumbai, was the Guest of Honour.

Texttreasure Education is not a preparation for life; education is life itself - John Dewey March - April 2014

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TAI - West Bengal

UNIT ACTIVITY

Dr. Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay, Provice Vice-Chancellor, (Academic) delivering the inaugural address

Sir A. K. Mukherjee, Hon. Secretary, W.B. Unit with his team Treasurer Sri. D. K. Mitra, Jt. Secretary Sri Subhas Hazra and Jt. Secretary Sri T. K. Ghosh, E.C. Member Dr. Sadhan Ch. Roy, Dr. Sunil Kr. Seth, Dr. N. C. Pan, Dr. S. N. Chattopadhyay, Sri B. N. Ghosh, Sri Partha Sarathy Roychowdhury, Sri. Akhilendu Bhowmick, Smt. Sreenanda Palit, Dr. Debyendu Bikash Dutta, Prof. Dr. S. K. Ghosh and Sri. S.K. Ghosh (ExDirector Handloom) were in the function.

Dr. Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay, Provice Vice-Chancellor, (Academic) University of Calcutta delivered an inaugural address. Keynote address was given by Dr. Asish Kumar Samanta, Head of the Department of Jute & Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta.

Dr. Debasish Nag, Director NIRJAFT and Dr. S.K. Bhattacharya, Ex-Director NIRJAFT, member of Advisory Committee were present and Sri. Sanjoy Kumar Jain, Managing Director - T. T. Ltd. and Sri Arunava Kundu, Vice-Chairman TAI - W.B. Unit were present in the function.

Technological conference was in two sessions with total 11 articles from different sector. There were 99 invitees and guests were present and enjoyed the Technological Conference. Conference was followed by Lunch then High Tea & lastly with lucky dip draw.

Vote of thanks was proposed by Sri A. K. Roy, Chairman, TAI, W.B. Unit.

TAI - MP

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Burhanpur Tapti Mills (BT) visit & Student Chapter Program The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unit & Spinners Club jointly organized the visit of 60 Textile Students & TAI MP Unit Office Bearer to Burhanpur Tapti Mills on 05th April 2014 under the leadership of Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAI - MP Unit.

Mr. Deepak Saxena is being felicitated

Spinners Club has also given Memento to all the present delegates. Mr. Ashok Veda honored to Mr. Deepak Saxena, Vice President, BT Mills & thanked the team for their huge support & Co-operation for the grand success of National Textile Seminar 2013 organized by TAI MP Unit held in August 2013.

Mr. Deepak Saxena welcomed Mr. Ashok Veda, Mr. M.C. Rawat, Mr. Ajay Joshi & team. A beautiful Fabric Memento was presented to all the delegates.

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UNIT ACTIVITY

At the end Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAI - MP Unit proposed the vote of thanks. Mr. Ashok Veda offering a flower bouquet to Deepak Saxena

Mr. Deepak Saxena explained & informed about that how they have converted a old public sector mill to highly modernized mill. Currently they have imported and branded machineries like Luwa, Texpert, LMW and also Chinese machineries in their plant. Mr. Deepak Saxena & their team have shown their working process and culture and how they are managing in a nice manner. Mr. Ashok Veda has appreciated the efforts done by the NTC management. About 60 Students, Faculty members of college and Office Bearers of TAI, MP Unit attended the function.

Group of Students and faculty Member at BT Mills visit

While highlighting the progress of BT Mills, Mr. Deepak Saxena has also informed about their other projects of Burhanpur Mills like Kamal Cotspin and upcoming projects like Geeta Textiles, Aarti Textiles also.

Group of Students and faculty Member at BT Mills department

View of Managing Committee Meeting, chaired by Mr. Deepak Saxena Group of Students and faculty Member at BT Mills department

Grow your organization's business share through JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE A TION ASSSOCIA OCIATION March - April 2014

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BT Mills organized Managing Committee Meeting of TAI - MP Unit in their board room under the Chairmanship of Mr. Deepak Saxena, Vice President, BT Mills. Mr. Ashok Veda also appreciated the arrangement done by mill management.

NEWS

53rd DORNBIRN

growth potential of the DORNBIRN-MFC is the strong commitment of existing and new main sponsors of this European lead event. Due to the active involvement in an enlarged base the continuous expansion of the congress can be guaranteed in turbulent times as well.

Man-Mase fibers Congress (DORNBIRN-MFC) Communicating the Future of Man-made Fibers Innovation, Efficiency and Competitiveness Dominate the Congress

Additional Focuses broaden the Lead in Knowhow After the break for lunch on the opening day the main theme "Global Strategies for a Change" will deal with some of these decisive key factors for success. The European Commission will start with a lecture on the horizon of experience 2020 with focus on innovations and sustainable resources followed by Fenwis Gmbh with a report about the future markets and developments in the field of textiles and man-made fibers. INVISTA will present the findings of a market research on consumer trends in textiles. Radici Partecipazione SpA will speak about sustainability as a source for market opportunities meeting the challenges of an integrated production. RWTH Aachen will finalize this section with a report about the industry 4.0. focusing on workers in the textile industry. In this international part we will feature in future also partner countries.

The 53rd DORNBIRN-MFC from September 10th to 12th 2014 with approximately 100 lectures held by experts is presenting itself again as the European lead event. Representatives from the man-made fibers industry, the processing chain and academic research use this Communication platform for an intensive exchange of ideas. The global challenges of the developments in the financial sector and economies show that along with innovation cost-efficiency and competitiveness has become the decisive key factors for success of the European fiber industry.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Another novelty is the enlarged section "Key Technologies" which will report about latest findings in the field of finishing, coating, machinery for spinning/extrusion and joint developments between academic research and industry.

The traditional plenary session on the opening day will start with presentations from Lenzing AG, CIRFS/Brussels, the awarding of the Paul-Schlack Prize, a lecture from Bionic Strategy/D with the title "The Re-enchantment of the World - Survival Strategies with Brands as Modern Storytellers in an Engineered World". After a short break EDANA/Brussels will speak about the developments in Nonwovens, followed by the OECD with a lecture on the standardization of antimicrobial testing methods.

Enhancement in Quality for Main Themes Generally we are planning to enhance the importance of various sections with introductory lectures, giving an overview. The main themes run as follows:

Strong Support by Main Sponsors from Industry A particularly pleasant development in view of the future 384

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NEWS

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For registration until 31st of May 2014 an early bird bonus will be granted. For online registeration please visit, www.dornbirn-mfc.com

Global Strategies for a Change (Market Specials / New Business Models) Fiber- / Filament Innovations (Oil- and Bio-based Fiber Raw Materials, Carbon Fibers, Functionalities, Nonwovens / Filtration Automotive (Transportation - Train / Ship / Air) Key Technologies (Finishing, Coating, Spinning / Extrusion)

For more details please contact AUSTRIAN MAN-MADE FIBERS INSTITUTE (AUSTRIAN-MFI) Congress Office Kolingasse 1/1/5 A-1090 Vienna Austria Tel.: +43 (0) 1 319 29 09 - 41 Fax:+43 (0) 1 319 29 09 - 31 E-Mail: office@dornbirn-mfc.com www.dornbirn-mfc.com

Make Use of the Early Bird Bonus Experience the latest developments and trends in the international man-made fibers world and deepen your know-how by networking with more than 800 participants from 30 countries plus.

AATCC Recognizes Varley, Greeson with TCR Service Award

(NCSU) and graduated with a Bachelor of Science in textile chemistry. His current position at Cotton Incorporated is Manager, Textile Chemistry Research, in the Textile Chemistry Research department. His primary responsibilities include research and development in the field of fabric finishing, including areas such as wrinkle resistance, moisture management, repellency, flame retardancy, and abrasion resistance. His responsibilities also include management of the Finishing Research Laboratory.

H. Kenneth Greeson of Cotton Incorporated and Adam R. Varley of Vartest Laboratories Inc. were honored by the AATCC Technical Committee on Research (TCR) with the TCR Service Award in recognition of their achievements and service to AATCC. The award was presented at the 2014 AATCC International Conference in Asheville, NC, on April 3, 2014. Varley was recognized for his contribution toward the development of the Fiber ID Technical Supplement and for almost yearly additions or revisions to Test Methods TM 20 and TM 20A in an effort to make those the most complete test methods in the world. Greeson was recognized for his contribution toward the major revision of AATCC Test Method 97 (Extractable Content of Textiles) for the 2014 AATCC Technical Manual.

H. Kenneth Greeson

Varley is Technical Director and Co-Founder of Vartest Laboratories Inc. He attended the Fashion Institute of Technology from 1978 to 1980, working toward an Associate Degree in Textile Technology. In 1987 he graduated with a BA in Computer Science and Business Management from New York University and in 2001 he received a Master of Textiles, Textile Chemistry and Apparel Management, from North Carolina State University. He has been a member of AATCC since 1978 and has been active in several research

Adam R. Varley

Greeson attended North Carolina State University March - April 2014

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NEWS committees, especially in RA24, Fiber Analysis Test Methods, where he has served as chair or acting chair and is currently chair. Outside of AATCC, Varley has served on ASTM Committee D13 for textiles, two subcommittees responsible for test method and specification development, and on the US Technical Advisory Group (TAG) for ISO/TC38-Textiles for Working Group 22, Chemical Test Methods.

Selection is by unanimous choice of the TCR Service Award Committee, composed of the current Chair of Technical Committee on Research, Vice Chair of TCR, Chair of the Executive Committee on Research (ECR) and the Secretary of TCR. The Award consists of a plaque and an honorarium, presented at the International Conference. About AATCC : AATCC, the Association of Textile, Apparel & Materials Professionals, is the world's leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals since 1921. AATCC, headquartered in Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA, provides test method development, quality control materials, and professional networking for members in about 60 countries throughout the world.

The Award : The Technical Committee on Research Service (TCR) Award was established in 2008 to recognize those members who have contributed greatly to the AATCC organization in a technical capacity. Senior members of the Association with at least five years of continuous membership in AATCC, who have contributed outstanding technical service to the Association through activity in a research committee, are eligible.

Jing Jin, Wei Dong, and Yong Liang Receive AATCC's J.W. Weaver Paper of the Year Award RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C., USA, April 15, 2014- Jing Jin, Wei Dong, and Yong Liang, who co-authored a paper on "Determination of Acrylamide in Textiles by GC-MS using 13C3-labeled Acrylamide as Internal Standard" published in the January/February 2013 issue of AATCC Review, have been selected as the writers of the best peer-reviewed paper published in AATCC Review in 2013.

Wei Dong

Wei Dong graduated with a BS from Zhejiang SciTech University in 1992. He is currently Associate Director of the Sichuan CIQ Technology Center in Chengdu, Sichuan, China.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

For their significant contributions to textile science literature, the authors were honored with the J. William Weaver Paper of the Year Award on April 3, 2014, at an awards ceremony held at the AATCC 2014 International Conference.

Yong Liang

Yong Liang has a Masters from Sichuan University in 2004. He is currently the Associate Chief Physician at the 363 Hospital in Chengdu, Sichuan, China. The Weaver Award : In February 1979, AATCC established an award for the best peer-reviewed paper published annually in the Textile Chemist and Colorist (afterwards AATCC Review; now these papers are published in the AATCC Journal of Research). In 1990, the award was named for J. William Weaver (19161990), who was chair of AATCC's Editorial Board at the time of his death.

Jing Jin

Jing Jin obtained her Masters from Sichuan University in 2004. She is currently the Associate Director of the Sichuan CIQ Laboratory of Textiles in Chengdu, Sichuan, China. 386

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NEWS AATCC Color Guidebook in 2011. Aspland has published more than 145 articles in peer-reviewed journals and in conference proceedings, three peer-reviewed book chapters, and holds two patents.

Aspland to Receive Olney Medal, AATCC's Highest Award

A member of AATCC since 1971, Aspland received the AATCC Harold C. Chapin Award for service to AATCC in 1999. In 2005, he received the AATCC William J. Weaver Paper of the Year Award for his contributions to textile science literature. He also received the Award for Faculty Excellence in 2000 and 2002 from the Clemson University Board of Trustees, the J.J. Lyons Distinguished Teacher Award in 199596, and the College of Commerce and Industry Teacher of the Year Award for 1993-94. He was elected Fellow of the Textile Institute in 1988 and Fellow of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (C.Col.F.S.D.C.) in 1968. He has been a senior member, Fellow, and Examiner with the SDC since 1956, and a fellow of the Textile Institute since 1987. He is also a member of the Inter-Society Color Council and the Fiber Society. He has traveled extensively nationally and internationally, as invited speaker or as consultant/trainer, on programs of dyes, dyeing, finishing, and color and textile chemistry. Aspland's outreach extends from the local community to the greater textile industry.

John Richard "Dick" Aspland is the 2013 recipient of the Olney Medal for outstanding achievement in the field of textile chemistry. The Olney Medal, the highest award presented by AATCC, is for outstanding lifetime achievement in a field of major importance to textile science. Aspland's research has included a wide range of textile chemistry interests including fluorescence of dyeings and laundered fabrics (bispectralspectrometry); fastness properties of dyeings on novel polymers; implementation of novel shade sorting software for color users from color-instrument manufacturers to apparel cutters; the influence of fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on the physical properties of coated fabrics; synthesis of isotopic tracers for studying diffusion in nylon dyeing; the effect of color distribution on the color appearance of yarns, fibers, and fabrics (microspectrometry); and the interactions between pigment particles and polymers.

The award will be presented at the AATCC International Conference, which is being held April 1-3, 2014, at the Crowne Plaza Resort in Asheville, NC. USA. For additional information on IC 2014, go to the AATCC website.

Aspland has been active in textile chemistry for more than 50 years as scientist, researcher, and educator in academia and industry. His book, Textile Dyeing and Coloration, published by AATCC in 1997, has been used as a "premier text on dyeing." Aspland and his former student, Ann Laidlaw, together published the

TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONS Book your orders with:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Central Office Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 400 028 Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 March - April 2014

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The Olney Medal Established in 1944 in honor of Louis Atwell Olney, the founder and first president of AATCC, the Olney Medal recognizes outstanding achievement in textile or polymer chemistry or other fields of chemistry of major importance to textile science. The award consists of a gold medal, a scroll, and an honorarium.

NEWS

Competence In 4 Spinning Systems at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 ◆

On its exhibition stand at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 (June 16th - 20th, 2014), Rieter will be demonstrating its competence across the entire spinning process and presenting all 4 end spinning systems live on the stand (Hall W4, Booth No. D01).

Multimedia presentations will convey to visitors a striking impression of the unique benefits of valuable systems produced by Rieter.

THE EXHIBITS IN DETAIL

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The know-how relating to financing, spinning mill planning, use of the right technological elements, selection of the correct spinning process as well as many other competences are necessary to achieve success in the operation of a spinning plant. Rieter is presenting all this expertise at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2014. Visitors are invited to admire numerous highlights and innovations live on the Rieter exhibition stand. Here a brief overview : ◆ Rieter provides the opportunity to see a model of the 1.5 m wide C 70 card with the biggest active carding area. ◆ Rieter presents the SB-D 22 double-head draw frame ensuring maximum productivity at delivery speed up to 1 100 m/min and a unique automatic can changer up to 1 000 mm. ◆ The G 32 ring spinning machine (operational) produces ring, fancy ring, twin and compact ringspun yarn - quality controlled by the ISM individual spindle monitoring system. ◆ The advantages of the R 35 semi-automatic rotor spinning machine now available with 500 spinning positions can be discussed, based on a spin box model. ◆ High productivity and excellent Com4®rotor yarn quality with yarn-like piecings will be highlights of the fully-automatic R 60 rotor spinning machine (operational). Newly available with 600 positions. ◆ A new generation of the J 20 air-jet spinning machine (operational) with new concepts of spin unit automation, winding and machine prolongation to 200 units. ◆ What the benefits and characteristics of the 4 spinning systems mean for downstream processing can be experienced by visitors in the Technology Corner. Here fabric samples and end products of the 4 Rieter Com4® yarns are available. ◆ The latest retrofits and high-quality original spare parts will be presented by Rieter's spare parts experts.

Model of the C 70 Card

Model of the C 70 Card The C 70 high-performance card achieves excellent quality values at highest production for all yarn applications. This is based on the well-proven 1.5 m working width and maximum active carding area. Focus is placed on the economic production of carded and combed ring yarns. Precise flats guiding and innovation in the pre- and post-carding area allow, with the selective waste extraction, excellent raw material exploitation and sliver quality. With the integrated grinding system IGS, the sliver quality is maintained at a high level. By utilizing draw frame modules instead of the classical can coilers, the customer has the possibility to optimally layout the process.

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NEWS SB-D 22 Double-Head Draw Frame The SB-D 22 double-head draw frame without autoleveling guarantees maximum machine efficiency with a unique can changer up to 1 000 mm. The machine concept is labor- and space-saving. At delivery speeds of up to 1 100 m/min the mill-proven Rieter 4-over-3 drafting system ensures outstanding yarn quality. Unique centralized drafting system setting and easy modification of the delivery speed on the display panel also enhance customer benefits. Energy consumption is some 20 % lower than for other manufacturers' machines.

Suction Tube ECOrized A substantial proportion of the costs with yarn production is generated by the energy consumption. Efficient use of energy therefore saves costs and is environmentally-friendly. With the suction tube ECOrized for the ring spinning machines G 32, G 33, G 35 and G 36, the suction power can be reduced by up to 50 percent. An effect that sustainably lowers energy costs in the spinning mill.

R 60 Rotor Spinning Machine G 32 Ring Spinning Machine

G 32 Ring Spinning Machine The G 32 ring spinning machine complements Rieter's ring spinning technology for standard applications. The textile-technological functions of the mill-proven Rieter ring spinning models have been optimized to achieve cost-efficient yarn production. Customers profit from a top quality machine that combines efficient energy utilization with suction tube ECOrized and superior yarn quality with high spinning speeds.

R 60 Rotor Spinning Machine The R 60 fully automated rotor spinning machine sets new standards in terms of quality, productivity and flexibility with reduced energy consumption. The improved spinning stability of the new S 60 spinning unit enables up to 5 % higher output to be achieved with improved yarn quality. The productivity of the machine with up to 600 rotors and up to 6 robots is enormous. The option of independently operating machine sides offers additional flexibility. The uniform yarn quality of the R 60 with yarn-like AEROpiecing速 piecings ensures a leading position as a yarn supplier. Suction Tube ECOrized March - April 2014

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R 35 Rotor Spinning Machine

NEWS information on the benefits of the 4 Rieter Com4速 yarns by means of various end products and fabric samples.

J 20 Air-Jet Spinning Machine

J 20 Air-Jet Spinning Machine The design of the fully-automated, double-sided air-jet spinning machine has been advanced in terms of productivity. 200 spinning units and a delivery speed of 450 m/min ensure economical production. High performance is supported by a new piecing preparation system which reduces piecing time to half. The new winding unit ensures optimal package build-up and higher package weight. Technological innovations enable, for example, the softness and hairiness of Com4速jet yarns to be adjusted.

Spare Parts Service

Spare Parts and Retrofits A reliable partner supplying a complete range of wearing, technology and standard parts. Original spare parts from Rieter ensure optimal working behavior, smooth operation and additional security. Innovative developments plus high-quality products subjected to rigorous controls and checks enable Rieter to meet customers' most stringent safety and production requirements. Furthermore, Rieter's local warehouse facility will enable customers to plan their requirements and ensures quicker delivery. ABOUT RIETER Rieter is a leading supplier on the world market for textile machinery and components used in short staple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures systems, machinery and technology components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover spinning preparation processes as well as all four final spinning processes currently established on the market. With 18 manufacturing locations in 10 countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 800, about 25 % of whom are based in Switzerland.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Products made of the 4 Rieter Com4速 yarns.

Technology Corner with end products made of the 4 Rieter Com4速 yarns. Rieter supports customers in the choice of the right spinning process by its comprehensive technological expertise in all 4 spinning processes through to the textile end product. At the exhibition, Rieter provides

For more details, Please visit, (www.rieter.com)

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NEWS Dr. Arindam Basu wears many hats and presents a diversified portfolio of experience in the fields of research, academics and industry. Dr. Basu worked as Director, Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Central Silk Board, Bangalore, Director, SITRA, Coimbatore, Director, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Institute of Textile Management, Coimbatore, and had been the Deputy Manager of Jaya Shree Textiles in West Bengal, which is an Aditya Birla Group Company. At the early stage of his career, his stint with BTRA, Mumbai and Post Doctoral Research at Dept. of Textile and Apparel Management, N. C. State University, USA is also worth mentioning.

Dr. Arindam Basu joins NITRA as Director General Also to look after NITRA's academic wing NTC

Dr. Arindam Basu, eminent textile-scientist and Director, Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Central Silk Board, Bangalore has assumed Director General's Office at Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA), Ghaziabad on 6th March'14. He is also in overall charge of NITRA's academic wing NITRA Technical Campus (NTC).

Through the illustrious career spanning over 25 years now, Dr. Basu has co-authored 8 technical books, published 130 technical articles in world's most renowned referred journals, and presented about 50 papers in premier techno-conferences and seminars. He had applied and granted many patents regarding machinery and instrument development. Dr. Arindam Basu is the recipient of many awards including National Scholarship for Studies Abroad, awarded by the Ministry of HRD, GoI, and Century Textiles Best Technical Book in Textiles Award for the year 2002 for authoring the book "Textile Testing- Fibre, Yarn and Fabric". He is a recognized guide for M.S., M. Phil., Ph.D., and associated as external examiner and visiting lecturer with many premier universities in the country. In addition to that, Dr. Basu is also an active member of different national and international trade, and professional bodies.

Dr. Arindam Basu, a renowned scientist and professional in the field of textile research, hails from a very respectable family from Kolkata - the cultural capital of India and a city enriched with great other significance in the history of India. Dr. Arindam Basu, a renowned scientist and professional in the field of textile research, hails from a very respectable family from Kolkata - the cultural capital of India and a city enriched with great other significance in the history of India. Dr. Basu flashed the sparkle of genius in academics and secured first class in both B.Sc. (Text.) and M. Text. from prestigious Universities of Calcutta and Bombay, respectively. To further illuminate his outstanding academic record, in the year 1991, he completed Ph.D. in Textile Engineering from the University of Leeds - the globally iconic university based in U.K.

Advertise with us on TAI Website Banners Visit

www.textileassociationindia.org March - April 2014

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NITRA, while warmly welcoming him, strongly believe that Dr. Arindam Basu, the man with such an epidemic career, is the right person to take NITRA to a new height, and will make the organization a hallmark of excellence, in the days to come, by providing industry the best quality of service.

NEWS

Environmentally Benign Single Layer Breathable Nanowebs Developed

The aim of the relatively environmentally friendly process was to avoid the use of cross-linking agents and functionalizing chemicals to obtain a stronger nanoweb.

Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA

Heat cross-linked single layer nanowebs were good enough for handling and testing of their tensile and water transport properties. The nanowebs were approximately 250 nm in diameter.

Single layer breathable nanowebs were developed using green electro-spinning process. A team of interdisciplinary researchers at Texas Tech University involving fiber science, chemistry and toxicology have developed a homopolymer single layer porous nanoweb for bioengineering applications. The process involved water soluble poly (vinyl alcohol) and resulted in the development of standalone nanofiber webs. The process was devoid of any organic solvents and used heat cross-linking to obtain a stronger single layer nanoweb that can be handled for subsequent processes and treatments.

Nanowebs developed that are devoid of organic solvent residues can find a myriad of applications such as cell and tissue culture scaffolds, protective clothing liners, and air filters. This work was recently published in the Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research Journal of the American Chemical Society.

First WinTape winders successfully commissioned fer tail that can be defined and selected as desired in terms of length round off the innovative new development of the Chemnitz-based Oerlikon Barmag subsidiary. An outstanding price-performance ratio makes the WinTape a prudent investment: the acquisition costs for the automatic tape winder are about half of those for the alternative components available at the last plastics trade fair.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WinTape winders delivered to the US The first WinTape winders have commenced production at two well-known American carpet manufacturers. The fullyautomatic tape winder was first unveiled to the trade at the 'K2013'. The new, automatic WinTape winding systems scores highly with its low level of operator involvement: depending on the technological application, the winder operates without any operating staff for up to 24 hours. The automatic precision winder convinces with its extraordinary transfer reliability when processing both in single and dual tapes. In particular, the virtually 100% safe and reliable automatic transfer of dual tapes for warp packages used on carpet backing has been a globally unsolved tech-nical challenge to date. Its central Oerlikon Barmag WinTape control system with recipe management and supervision with pro-tection against unauthorized changing as well as the electronically-adjustable crossing angles ensures excellent package quality. Its automatic package transfer and the storage of up to two full packages and up to four empty tubes guarantee an uncomplicated, reliable operating cycle. A trans-

The WinTape forms an efficient double-act when combined with the also freshly-launched EvoTape tape system: with up to 50 percent greater efficiency compared to conventional standard systems, Oerlikon Barmag has managed a quantum leap in efficiency. At an 'Open House' event which took place at the Chemnitz site in parallel to the plastics trade fair - interested customers were able to in-form themselves of the benefits and advantages of the company's new developments.

For further detials please contact Susanne Beyer Marketing & Corporate Communications Tel. +49 2191 67-1526 Fax +49 2191 67-70 1526 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing & Corporate Communications Tel. +49 2191 67-2331 Fax +49 2191 67-70 2331 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com 392

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NEWS

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): New version 4.0 released: New assessment of improved regenerated and synthetic fibres Large 2013 increase of GOTS certified companies in Europe - up to 30 % - provided they are environmentally improved and certified. For regenerated fibres this means that the raw material must be from certified organic production respective sustainable forestry management or certified recycled. For synthetic fibres the raw material must be recycled and also certified according to recognized standards.

Today, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) International Working Group is announcing Version 4.0 of its globally-recognized standard for the processing of textiles made from certified organic natural fibers. GOTS' core provisions such as the 70 % minimum content of certified organic fibres, bans on GMO (genetically modified organism), nanotechnology and carcinogenic substances have been maintained.

"According to current knowledge through environmental impact assessments the previous focus on natural fibres for the permissible conventional 'additional fibre materials' (up to max. 30 %) is no longer justifiable. In the future, textile manufacturers will have a larger choice of fibre mixes if they also use the environmentally improved variants of regenerated and synthetic fibres. A wider product selection of GOTS certified products will be made possible which will also support the increased use of organic fibres" notes Marcus Bruegel, GOTS Technical Director.

There are modified rules on the conventional 'additional fibre materials': These now may consist of regenerated, respective synthetic fibres - up to 30 % provided they are environmentally improved and certified. GOTS is following the current knowledge that the focus on natural fibers for this additional fibre content is no longer justifiable. Other changes include the bans on virgin polyester and of angora (recently in the headlines due to animal cruelty concerns). New criteria were adopted for specific product groups, such as textile personal care products or mattresses. The most important addition to the social criteria that are based on the ILO key conventions (eg. banning child labour) is to take into consideration available results of various other reliable programs and certification schemes in this field.

The processing is also regulated more strictly. As in every revision process the latest insights regarding textile chemistry and residue testing methods were considered. Various applicable criteria and limit values were reinforced. The already extensive list of banned substances and strict residue parameters was further extended. This will point out more clearly that all substances criticized by Greenpeace in their "Detox Campaign" naturally remain banned in GOTS.

New GOTS Version 4.0 - Full Version Today, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) International Working Group is announcing Version 4.0 of the worldwide recognized standard for the processing of textiles made from at least 70% (label grade 'made with organic'), respective 95% (label grade "organic") certified organic natural fibres. GOTS' core provisions such as the 70 % minimum content of certified organic fibres, the general bans on the use of substances from disputed techniques such as GMO (genetically modified organism) and nanotechnology as well as carcinogenic substances have been maintained. There are modified rules on permissible conventional 'additional fibre materials': These now may consist of regenerated, respective synthetic fibres March - April 2014

New criteria were adopted for specific product groups, such as textile personal care products or mattresses. The GOTS social criteria are based on the ILO key conventions (International Labour Organization), which include the ban on child labour. The audit areas that need to be covered by the auditors during the on-site inspections were further specified. The GOTS 4.0 now 393

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In addition, the use of virgin polyester and angora is banned. "Both bans are reasonable. Recycled polyester yarn is already widely available. In the case of angora the ban is a consequence of the mostly in acceptable husbandry conditions of angora rabbits" Bruegel continues.

NEWS expressly stipulates programs or certifications; the results are to be considered during the GOTS inspection: Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), Social Accountability 8000 (SA800), Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI). Fire prevention training and evacuation drills were added to the existing health and safety training requirements.

Switzerland, Netherlands, Greece, Denmark, Belgium and Sri Lanka. "We see the increase in Europe as a very positive sign. For the companies the GOTS certification means an increasing competitive advantage in addition to the effective supply chain management. It helps them find their 'Business Case for Sustainability'. First of all they have a pull effect on the whole worldwide supply chain and secondly they have a push effect towards the end consumers. They are making themselves to real agents of change to sustainability in the textile industry and secure their long-time company success at the same time" says Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director.

The implementation period for GOTS certified entities to comply with the new criteria is one year after the announcement. GOTS 4.0 is the result of a revision process with multi stakeholder input which is repeated every three years. Stakeholders who operate internationally with expertise in the field of organic production, textile processing, textile chemistry and social criteria and representing the industry, NGOs and consumer interests were invited to participate. This time the participating organizations also included Greenpeace, the Clean Clothes Campaign, Fairtrade, the Fair Wear Foundation, IFOAM and Textile Exchange.

India maintained her top position for fifth year in a row. At the end of the year 2013, there were 1,029 GOTS certified facilities in India. GOTS also got an award for the Best Sustainability Initiative from Consortium of Green Fashion in Apr-2013. There has also been an increase in the GOTS certified products being sold in the retail market in India with more brands and stores supporting GOTS. GOTS exhibited in National Garment Fair, Biofach India and IndiaTex in 2013. GOTS representative in India, Mr. Sumit Gupta was invited to various International Conferences, Seminars and Institutes to speak on Eco-Fashion, Compliance and Sustainability, where he interacted with professionals from industry and students.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

GOTS Annual Report 2013 After the number of facilities becoming certified to GOTS in 62 countries worldwide surpassed the 3.000 mark in 2012, it remained stable in 2013 with an increase to a total of 3.085 certified facilities. A decrease in Asia which was partially caused by the trend of concentrating the placement of GOTS orders with certain already certified facilities was overcompensated by a huge increase in Europe. A total of 109 new facilities were registered in Germany (+66%), Austria (+14%) and Switzerland (+27%). An increase of 73 % with 33 new facilities was registered in Portugal, 13 % increase in Italy and 12 % in France.

All certified facilities are listed in the public database which has been available on the GOTS website since 2010. There are more than 100,000 search queries every year. There are currently seventeen GOTS accredited independent certification organizations. The GOTS Version 4.0, the corresponding Manual for the implementation, a list of the relevant changes, region specific additions to this press release as well as translations into Japanese and Chinese and further information regarding GOTS can be found on www.global-standard.org.

The Top 20 countries in terms of the total number of GOTS-certified facilities were: India, Turkey, Germany, China, South Korea, Italy, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Japan, Portugal, France, United Kingdom, USA, Austria,

Attention All Members of THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our website Email : taicnt@gmail.com, taicnt@mtnl.net.in 394

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NEWS

Industry expects strong international traction in India's automotive sector as Messe Frankfurt announces acquisition of Automotive Engineering Show Messe Frankfurt IndiaTrade Fair Pvt. Ltd, the Indian subsidiary of one of the world's leading trade show organisers, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH, formally announces its acquisition of the Automotive Engineering Show, India's only trade fair focused on technologies for automotive manufacturing. Previously owned and managed by Focussed Event Management Pvt Ltd, the Automotive Engineering Show further expands Messe Frankfurt's portfolio of mobility and infrastructure fairs by promoting innovations at the manufacturing level, for one of the world's fastest growing automotive markets.

We are delighted to add the fair to our existing portfolio, which will greatly complement our existing trade fair on the automotive aftermarket -Automechanika." Since its debut, the Automotive Engineering Show has maintained its focus on automotive plant processes and technologies. With the last edition in 2013 attracting 120 participants and more than 5,600 industry visitors from OE Msas well as tier-one to tier-three suppliers, the show continues to be a well-recognised platform for the automotive sector. Mr. Sameer Khedkar, Director of Focussed Event Management Pvt. Ltd. commented "We are pleased to work with Messe Frankfurt, as we believe that their expertise and unmatched global presence will become an invaluable asset to the Automotive Engineering Show's future development. With Messe Frankfurt acquiring the show, I believe we will see the Automotive Engineering Show gain a stronger foot hold in the domestic industry as well as receive more international participation.

India is quickly becoming one of the most popular markets for automotive manufacturing, with a number of key global brands already operating production plants within the country. The country's automotive industry is estimated by experts to experience unprecedented growth due to domestic automotive production reaching a CAGR of 12.2 percent between the fiscal years 2005 -2013. Additionally, India's export of domesticallybuilt automobiles recently increased by 2.03 percent. With its acquisition of the show, Messe Frankfurt intends to utilise its global network to bring together more domestic brands with international firms possessing world-class solutions, further propelling India's automotive sector. Drawing from its successful history in hosting similar sector trade fairs around the world, Messe Frankfurt intends to implementits highly-recognised international standard in trade fair organization to the Automotive Engineering Show. Mr Raj Manek, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt in India stated: "The Automotive Engineering Show has already established itself as a credible industry platform.

Automotive Engineering Show will be held from 29 -31 May 2014 in Auto Cluster Exhibition Centre, Chinchwad, Pune, India.

Texttreasure There are two educations. One should teach us how to make a living and the other how to live - John Adams March - April 2014

For more information, Please visit http://www.messefrankfurtindia.in or emailsyed.javed@india.messefrankfurt.com.

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Messe Frankfurt India's portfolio of trade fairs includes: ACMA Automechanika New Delhi, Techtextil India, Light India, Heimtextil India, Ambiente India, SPS Automation India, Watertech, Pollutech, Cleantech, Wastetech and Secutech India. The organiser plans to bring the Automotive Engineering Show on par with international events in the same sector and present the perfect trade platform for companies looking at reaching out to both vehicle and auto-component manufacturers within a strictly business-to-business environment.

NEWS

ITAMMA's initiatives in the academic field A Campus Recruitment of Textile under Graduate/Post Graduate Students was organized at TPO Hall, VJTI, Matunga, Mumbai-400 019 (Maharashtra) on 13th March, 2014 at 3.00 p.m. inviting ITAMMA MemberCompanies.

multidisciplinary areas of Engineering. He also applauded ITAMMA for taking the initiative for the Combined Recruitment drive at VJTI. Dr. S.M Gaonkar, Training and Placement Officer at VJTI, appreciated the event and encouraged the students to strive for excellence.

A month before, the CVs of about 15 students were received by the Directorate of ITAMMA from VJTI, which were further scrutinized and sorted as per the interests shown by the students in their respective fields of work, such as Sales and Marketing, Corporate Communication, Purchase, Procurement, Supply Chain and other operational areas. The same were forwarded to the interested Member-Companies of ITAMMA and accordingly the requirements of the ITAMMA Member-Companies were noted and a strategy of recruitment process was planned.

Mr. Diven Dembla, President, ITAMMA delivered his Inaugural Address; where he gave the details on the Status & Set-up of Indian Textile Engineering Industry, giving the statistical figures. He also mentioned, that ITAMMA takes efforts to help our members in enriching their knowledge and upgrading their technological development through various Cluster Development initiatives like Lean, 5S, Design Awareness, etc. to help them to sustain in this competitive Global Market. ITAMMA also helps its members in enhancing their business activities under the umbrella of Export initiatives through various cost competitive & innovative schemes helping them to show case their products & strengths in International Exhibitions.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The execution of the activity was followed by a programme, "Industry Interaction for Campus Recruitment" on Thursday, the 13th March, 2014 at VJTI, Matunga, Mumbai-400 019 (Maharashtra). The programme was conducted by the Textile Department and VJTI TPO; during which Dr. V.D. Gotmare, Head, Textile Department, VJTI delivered his welcome speech. He appreciated the efforts of Mr. N.D Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA in helping VJTI organize the Combined Recruitment Campaign - An event that took place for the first time in the history of VJTI.

\ Mr. Diven Dembla, President, ITAMMA delivering his Inaugural Address (Sitting on the dais are Dr. A.K. Rakshit, Dean R&D, VJTI (to the Left), Dr. S.M Gaonkar, Training and Placement Officer at VJTI (in the Centre) & Dr. V.D. Gotmare, Head, Textile Department, VJTI (to the Right)

Dr. V.D. Gotmare, Head, Textile Department, VJTI delivering his welcome speech

Dr. A.K. Rakshit, Dean R&D, VJTI in his Keynote Address highlighted the importance of The Textile Engineering Industry and emphasized on how the Textile Engineering Industry fosters growth in

He concluded, stating that this is an appropriate initiative taken by both ITAMMA & VJTI, giving a valuable platform to the Students & Industrialists. 396

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NEWS Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA mentioned that as the technological development has taken place from handloom to hi-tech machines where installation of Pneumatics, Hydraulics, Computerization have demanded for a qualified and skilled manpower, not only to just operate the machine but to operate them at highest productivity. So the involvement of qualified manpower has become very important and accordingly we feel that the initiatives taken by ITAMMA and VJTI for this programme is very apt.

Thereafter, each of the following ITAMMA members gave a brief presentation about their company profile, company product & process and their requirements of manpower. Mr. Sanjiv Lathia from Lathia Rubber Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai; Mr. Ketan Sanghvi from Laxmi Shuttleless Looms Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad; Ms. Tejasvi from Delux Bearings Ltd., Mumbai; and Mr. Vinit Shah from Vinit Rubber Works, Mumbai; participated in the programme. The students were given opportunity to interact with the above industrialists and thereafter an opportunity to each ITAMMA Member-Company was given to interact and interview about 8-9 students of B.Tech and M.Tech category, individually.

Students' Participation

December 10-13, 2014 Textile Excellence announces quadrennial mega textile technology show - ITMACH India Following the runaway success of its regional show ITMACH - Bhiwandi, Textile Excellence has now announced its mega quadrennial event ? ITMACH India - International Textile Machinery and Accessories Exhibition, India.

ITMACH India will also host a series of seminars and workshops concurrent to the show, at the venue, dissipating knowledge and opportunity for networking and policy framing based on the current needs of the industry.

This year, ITMACH India is scheduled from December 10?13, 2014, in Ahmedabad. The growing investment in technology by Indian textile and clothing industry, backed by supportive policies of India's central and state governments necessitates a large scale event in a hub that is central to this industry. Ahmedabad, as the location for ITMACH India, offers all facilities including world class infrastructure, road and air connectivity to the domestic and international cities and more importantly, it is an emerging business hub with a conducive business environment, in addition to having a rich legacy of textile and clothing manufacturing and trade.

ITMACH India: Highlights Over 50,000 visitors expected comprising of industrialists, top decision makers and technocrats.

Nearly 500 exhibitors including prominent textile machinery manufacturers will participate.

Concurrent Seminars and Workshops will feature burning topics of textile trade and technology.

Participation by Government Departments that will facilitate policy formation and stimulate investment.

While ITMACH India will be held once in four years, the regional series will be an annual event.

"ITMACH India will be an event for the entire textile value chain from fiber preparation to finished goods making machinery and accessories including technical textiles. All Chapters of textile and clothing machinery, utility machinery, consumables and supporting service providers will meet the large Indian industry in a four March - April 2014

For further detials please contact Mr. Henry D'souza info@itmach.com Tel: 0091 22 22017061/2/3 397

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

day extravaganza. Further, the show will draw visitors from neighboring countries like Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Pakistan, Iran, Saudi Arabia and other Middle Eastern countries," informed the organisers.

ITMACH India from

NEWS

ITAMMA participates for the third consecutive year at DTG 2014 The 11th Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition February 12-15, 2014 at Bangabandhu International Conference Centre (BICC), Dhaka, Bangladesh Complimentary Stall No.M1 in the main business building for the third consecutive year, to showcase services of ITAMMA as well as the products of its members. The trend of visitors registered at ITAMMA Stall was 30% from Spinning, 20% from Weaving, 10% from Wet Processing, and 40% were from Garment & Apparel Industry. While the category of visitors were 40% of Traders/Agents interested in purchasing and selling the products, 40% of Owners (20% Owners of Garment & Apparel Industry, 10% Owners of Spinning, 5% Owners from Weaving and 5% Owners from Wet Processing).

'DTG 2014', the 11th Dhaka Int'l Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition was organized jointly by Bangladesh Textile Mills Association and Yorkers Trade & Marketing Service Co. Ltd., which received a tremendous response of 850 Exhibitors from 31 countries occupying 1020 booths. We are proud to mention that among them, Indians were 58 in number and ITAMMA members were 19 in number who had participated as an exhibitor.

Mr. Diven Dembla, President, ITAMMA interacting with the members of ITAMMA.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

BTMA President, Mr. Jehangir Alamin presided over the Inaugural Session while President of Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry, Mr. Kazi Akram Uddin Ahmed spoke as Special Guest. Mr. Kazim Akram Uddin Ahmed in his speech said that country will witness 8% growth and earn US $ 40 billion by next 2-3 years.

Display of Product Catalogues of the members who had participated in the 'Catalogue Display Scheme' of ITAMMA in the ITAMMA Stall M1

Our observations during this event states that there is a remarkable reduction in the footfall of Owners. However, at the same time, Managers & Technicians have visited in large numbers.

Activities organized at ITAMMA Stall M1: Due to the close association of BTMA and the strong confidence of the organizers, ITAMMA was offered a

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office Election Notice The Textile Association (India) has decided to hold the election of National President and Naational VicePresident and office beareres for the term 2013-2015 on 5th July, 2014. For more details contact Hon. Gen. Secretary Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com 398

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NEWS ITAMMA's initiative during 'DTG 2014' for its members:

Aswin Enginers, Coimbatore Dealers in Vetri Engineers Consultants of Textile Machinery and Mechanical and Electrical Spares.

Basant Wire Industries Pvt. Ltd., Jaipur Manufacturers of Textile Steel Pins, Pinned Lags, Pinned Rollers, Spiked Lattices, Pin Strips, Top Combs, O/E Opening Rollers, Stenter Pin Bars and Fibrillation & Perforation Rollers.

Bluemoon Machines Mfrs. Co., Surat Manufacturers of Yarn Conditioning Plants, H.T.H.P Yarn Steam Autoclaves & Cotton Two-for-One Twisters.

Century Inks Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai Manufacturers of Permanent Marking Pens for Textiles.

Continental Engg. Inds. Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Manufacturers of Heald Frames & its Accessories, Drop Pins, Electrical Contact Bars, Reeds, Temples, Temple Rings, Riderless Healds. Dealers in Leno Doup Healds, Selvedge Leno Attachments, Precision Sulzer Spares for all Weaving Machines.

Dynamic Autolooms India Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Manufacturers of Drop Box Shuttle Looms, Shuttleless Rapier Looms, 4 x 4 Pick-N-Pick Looms, 1 x 1 Velvet Looms. Dealers in Weaving Machines and Spare Parts of PTMT, SRL, Italy.

Leomine Organics Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai Manufacturers of Textile Auxilliaries & Chemicals.

Maksteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara Manufacturers of Textile Machinery Parts & Accessories, Jacquard Harness Parts.

Monga strayfield Pvt. Ltd., Pune Manufacturers of RF Dryers, Centrifuges, High Frequency Plastic Welding Machines, Sheet Metal Enclosures and Cabinets.

Patco Exports Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai Manufacturers of Spare Parts for Spinning, Weaving, Processing & Testing Machines. Dealers in Chains, Bearings, Gears and Sprockets.

Perfect Equipments Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Manufacturers of Flat End Milling Machines, Flat Clipping Machines pneumatically operated with PLC Control, Flat Tear-off Machines, Automatic Flat Grinding Machines, On Card Flat Grinding Rollers, etc.

Shree Ram Textile, Ahmedabad Manufacturers of Warp Stop Motions, Mechanical & Electrical Warp Stop Motions, Contact Bars, Ruti 'B' and Ruti 'C' Serrated Bars.

Sumanlal J. Shah Sons (P) Ltd., Coimbatore Dealers in Textile Machinery Spares of LMW, Rieter Sussion, etc

Suprabhatam Textile Equipments, Coimbatore Merchant-Exporters of Textile Machinery Accessories & Spare Parts.

Vinit Rubber Works, Mumbai Manvi Textile Air Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai Manufacturers of Roller Coverings / Rubber Fillets / Manufacturers of Humidification and Waste Rubber Strips / Rubber Emery Rolls / Take-up Strips / Collection Systems. Anti-Slip Tapes. A Square Solutions, Ahmedabad

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A special 'Catalogue Display Scheme' was organized for its members who were not able to participate in the above Exhibition and there was an overwhelming response from the following members:

NEWS Also during the exhibition, ITAMMA Logo was displayed at 15 Stalls of the Member-Exhibitors of ITAMMA. A meeting with the Office-bearers of BTMA was organized for ITAMMA members on 15th February, 2014 at BTMA Office where 12 ITAMMA member Delegation lead by Mr. Diven Dembla, President, ITAMMA participated, along with Mr. J.M. Balaji of M/s. Lakshmi Ring Travellers (Cbe) Ltd., Coimbatore, Mr. Vimal Shah of M/s. Sumanlal J. Shah Sons (P) Ltd., Coimbatore, Mr. Vidyanand Jaiswal of M/s. Monga Strayfield Pvt. Ltd., Pune, Mr. Vishal Shah of M/s. Shree Raj Corporation, Ahmedabad,

It was suggested by the President of ITAMMA to hold the DTG Exhibition either bi-annually or to have categories of the Exhibition for Spinning & Weaving for one year and Processing & Garments for other year. While Mr. Jehangir Alamin, President, BTMA showed an interest to take the help of ITAMMA MemberConsultants and ITAMMA Directorate in the field of technological developments for their skilled and unskilled manpower, as well as academicians. He has also shown interest to sign an MoU on these principles in order to strengthen the students of Textile University & Colleges at Bangladesh with the latest technology.

Mr. Saravanan of M/s. Susiram Industries, Coimbatore, Mr. Ashit Shah of M/s. A Square Solutions, Ahmedabad, Mr. Sameer Dua of M/s. Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, and Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech) of ITAMMA. During the meeting, Mr. Diven Dembla, President, ITAMMA gave an introduction about ITAMMA and its activities and invited the Office Bearers of BTMA to India for a 5 day Studycum-Business Tour to study the functioning of Indian Textile Composite Mills of Cotton & Synthetic Processors.

Mr. Jugal Kishore, Convenor, Mumbai Export Cell, ITAMMA, giving guidance to the Director General (Tech), ITAMMA.

During the meeting, ITAMMA members introduced themselves and distributed their products catalogues to the Office-bearers of BTMA.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

BTMA President, Mr. Jehangir Alamin welcoming Mr. Diven Dembla, President

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NEWS

ITMF-ICCTM: AQUALAB Recognizrd The ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) gave full recognition to AQUALAB, a fiber-testing instrument produced by Mesdan Spa, Italy. The ICCTM met in Bremen/Germany on March 18, 2014 at the start of the 32nd International Bremen Cotton Conference.

to optimize yarn and fabric production and accurately determine value. Recognition is conferred on testing instruments and methods that are according to the ICCTM beneficial for the cotton value added chain. Key criteria for recognition of an instrument are the performance of the test method which implies the measurement of new cotton characteristics, better resolution/less uncertainty/ less influences to existing methods or direct user benefit such as reduced operating time without reducing the resolution.

Mesdan Aqualab is an instrument to measure the moisture content and moisture regain of fiber. The moisture measurement is obtained through an innovative microwave low power resonance technology that is relatively fast and easy to use. Rapid measurement of moisture content and regain is useful throughout every stage in the cotton value chain

Additional information is available from www.itmf.org.

Lattie to Receive Chapin Award for Service to AATCC RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C., USA,

at the Crowne Plaza Resort in Asheville, NC. USA. For additional information on IC 2014, go to the AATCC website.

In recognition of his outstanding service to the Association, AATCC has named Robert Keith Lattie as the 2013 recipient of the Harold C. Chapin Award. A member of the AATCC since 1984, Lattie has served with honor and distinction in the administrative, research, and global outreach functions of AATCC. Lattie served as President of the Association from 2005 to 2006. At the international level, Lattie is a U.S. representative in test method research. He has chaired the AATCC C2-S1 International Test Methods Committee since 2003 and the U.S. Technical Advisory Group for ISO/TC 38 since 2002. He represents AATCC and ANSI at ISO/TC38 SC1 and SC2 meetings nationally and internationally.

About AATCC : AATCC, the Association of Textile, Apparel & Materials Professionals, is the world's leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals since 1921. AATCC, headquartered in Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA, provides test method development, quality control materials, and professional networking for members in about 60 countries throughout the world.

Lattie also serves on the AATCC Foundation Inc. Board of Directors. He helped AATCC staff and various committees develop domestic and international education and training programs. Under Lattie's presidential leadership, AATCC trained a number of international test method trainers, and in February 2006, traveled to Mumbai, India, for the Inauguration of the AATCC India Section.

Texttreasure The mind is not a vessel to be filled, but a fire to be kindled

The award will be presented at the AATCC International Conference, which is being held April 1-3, 2014, March - April 2014

- Plutarch 401

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Chapin Award The Chapin Award was established in 1958 in honor of Harold C. Chapin, professor of chemistry at Lowell Textile School, who served as national secretary of AATCC for nearly 25 years. The award is presented each year to a senior member, with at least 20 years continuous membership in AATCC, who has contributed outstanding service, enabling the Association to attain the objectives for which it was founded.

NEWS

New R 60 Rotor Spinning Machine - Technological Progress tial for higher productivity with synthetic fibers and their blends.

The innovative spinning technology of the new automatic R 60 rotor spinning machine from Rieter ensures better, more uniform and softer yarns. The R 60 sets new standards for speed, low energy consumption and high efficiency. At the ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, our customers clearly recognized how easy, operationally reliable and clearly designed this rotor spinning machine is compared to other machines.

R 60 - Nm 28 / Ne 17, 100% COTTON WEAVING YARN

New spinning technology for superior yarns and lower energy consumption Several customers could already experience the technological benefits of the new spinning box in the form of better yarn strength and evenness. In direct comparison to the latest competitor models, the innovative spinning technology of the R 60 is already a step ahead by up to 0.75 cN/tex and by 20 % higher IPI values. In the example shown (Fig. 2) - Ne 17 weaving yarn of 100 % cotton - this advantage in strength can be transformed into a productivity increase of 9 %. The originally required yarn strength can be achieved by a constant rotor speed with appropriately lower twist. This additionally results in a further reduction of the energy consumption per kg of yarn to an equivalent of 9 %.

The improved spinning technology of the R 60 brings significant benefits for quality and productivity

High yarn quality is the basis for the success of a spinning plant The new S 60 spinning box of the R 60 features all the proven advantages of its predecessor the SC-R version and has been further improved.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Noticeable is the absence of a delivery tube. The new TWISTunit of the R 60 unites delivery nozzle, TWISTstop and channel insert in one construction. The unit and its elements are very easy and quick to replace, even without tools.

Savings with raw material Again the further developed Rieter spinning technology proves its strength, particularly with a high proportion of short fibers or with a high trash content in the feed sliver. The adjustable bypass, the reduced spinning tension and the new automatic, individual centering of the exit nozzle and rotor improve the spinning stability. The mechanical rotor cleaning by the robot with the unique VARIOclean is effective with every piecing and doffing cycle. This ensures that the spinning position subsequently continues production at the highest quality level with thoroughly cleaned rotor grooves.

The new construction prevents fiber accumulations or spinning vacuum from changing the spinning conditions. The box no longer has any covers under which fibers can accumulate. The optimized spinning geometry reduces the spinning tension and improves the spinning stability. This can clearly be seen with critical applications such as soft-turned yarns or with the increased use of short fibers such as comber noil, card and blowroom waste. Thanks to the "cool nozzle technology" heat dissipation to the nozzle is good which leads to a cooler surface. This provides further poten402

March - April 2014

NEWS Piecing quality is particularly important with a high rate of yarn breakages The ends down rate when spinning with the R 60 is reduced by lowered spinning tension. The 25 % quicker robot, in comparison to the R 40, can deal with a far greater number of ends down and maintain the high efficiency of the machine. The robots need only 20 seconds for the complete cycle including complete rotor cleaning and doffing. With the unique AEROpiecing速 technology, almost yarn-like piecings in mass and strength are achieved. Only this can prevent more piecings generating substantial costs in downstream processing.

the drives for rotor, suction and opening rollers. For the rapidly turning rotors and opening rollers, optimized tangential belt drives have continued to prove energy saving. For the central suction the R 60 exhibits advantages, as the electronically-controlled vacuum combined with the automatic filter cleaning avoids unnecessary losses.

Faulty piecings create high costs A sample calculation shows the following: a typical Ne 12 denim weaving yarn contains around 0.5 piecings per kg of yarn. Just one yarn break in the weaving plant today costs - worldwide - approx. 2 EUR, as alongside the efficiency, the fabric quality is very quickly also influenced. Such faults in the fabric are paid for by the buyers with expensive compensation. Under these circumstances, with only a 1 % lower rate of faulty piecings in the weaving plant, already 0.01 EUR per kg of yarn can be saved. This leads to significant savings or even better, to higher profits for the spinner.

Measurements taken at customers have, in comparison to competitive machine concepts, confirmed energy consumption at least 10 % lower.

The life cycle of the electronic components can be extended by specific heat dissipation. For instance, in the R 60 the drive inverters were concentrated in an area that is specifically cooled by innovative heat dissipation.

The longest machine offers flexibility with independent sides With up to 540 rotors, the R 60 is the longest rotor spinning machine on the market. With independently producing machine sides, it can still be as flexibly operated as a short machine. Producing two different yarn qualities on one machine could create the risk of confusion. On the R 60 this is excluded by the double tube loaders, the two package transport belts and the clear allocation of the machine sides on the display.

Central drive consumes less energy The modern concept of the R 60 was specifically optimized for low energy consumption. The greatest energy consumers of the rotor spinning machine are

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

A-5

Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

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AATCC

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Reliance Industries Ltd.

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Advertisement Tariff

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Rieter India Ltd.

A-3

Alpenol

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SSP Pvt. Ltd.

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Birla Cellulose

A-9

Thymas Electronics Pvt. Ltd.

P-341, 366, 372

Filatech

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Truetzschler India Pvt Ltd.

A-1

GTTES 2015

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Unitech Techmech

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ITMACH Exhibition

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Veejay Lakshmi Engineering Works

A-7

Lakshmi Machine Works

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Web Listing

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ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

NEWS

New Staple Fiber Plant for the Production of Carded Nonwovens At this year's INDEX, the worldwide leading exhibition for nonwovens, from 8 to 11 April in Geneva, Switzerland, Oerlikon Neumag will be presenting plants and technologies for the production of high-quality nonwovens for hygiene and technical applications. For the first time, the new staple fiber plant Staple FORCE S 1000 will be introduced on stand 2314 in hall 2.

Nonwovens technology for a rapidly growing market Oerlikon Neumag offers the complete process from polymer chips up to roll goods for the production of substrate for bitumen roofing membranes, sarking membranes and also geotextiles. The one-step spunbond technology convinces with a combination of effectiveness and productivity, thus lowering production costs by up to 20%. More than 3 million tons of technical nonwovens were produced last year and the demand is still increasing, especially in emerging countries. Thinner, lighter, efficient materials, as produced with the spunbond technology, now specify the trend.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Staple FORCE S 1000 - compact and economical The new, compact plant is specially laid out for the economical production of staple fibers in small lots up to 15 tons per day, as necessary for the production of carded nonwovens. The Staple FORCE not only impresses with its low initial investment and compact construction, but also the energy costs are significantly reduced by replacing steam and water baths through a dry drawing process. "The Staple FORCE S 1000 is directed at downstream integrators, who in future want to produce the fibers for their products in-house, enabling the nonwovens producer to produce and further develop his end products without disclosing know-how and without quality fluctuations", explained Rainer Straub, Vice President Product Management Oerlikon Manmade Fibers.

Meltblown technology stand-alone or as an upgrade solution The Oerlikon Neumag meltblown technology enables the cost-efficient production of high-quality melt-blown and SMS (spunbond-meltblown-spunbond) products. Standalone mono and bico meltblown plants produce nonwovens for a variety of filtration, insulation and sorbent applications. The meltblown technology is applied for a multitude of medical and hygiene products as "Plug & Product" installations in already existing and in new external SXS plants. This solution enables a cost-efficient upgrading of new or existing spunbond plants and offers nonwoven producers access to markets with very high quality demands. Airlaid: more homogeneity with thin nonwovens The core of the Oerlikon Neumag airlaid technology, the forming head, sets standards for the produc-tion of extremely thin airlaid nonwovens. A high uniformity and homogeneous web formation, today enable the production of high-quality, light airlaid nonwovens with economically attractive pro-duction speeds and plant throughputs. With the new forming head, we can not only produce very light airlaid materials, but also combination nonwovens with full utilization of the plant capacity, at the same time saving raw material.

Oerlikon Neumag Staple FORCE S 1000

For further information: Claudia Henkel Marketing and Corporate Communications Phone +49 4321 305 105 Fax +49 4321 305 368 claudia.henkel@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing and Corporate Communications Phone +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 28 447 2331 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Nonwoven: All technologies on board for marketspecific developments Oerlikon Neumag has a comprehensive portfolio of nonwoven technologies, from melt-spun spunbond (spunbond and meltblown) up to air-laid nonwovens (airlaid). Application areas are for example spe-cial technical uses such as filtration, roofing, geotextiles and automotive, as well as hygiene applications. 404

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NEWS Markham, senior lecturer with MMU, UK demystified merchandising both as an art and science. Following these, Vivek Agarwal, Asst. Director & Dean - Management, NITRA presented the activities of NITRA and NTC with special focus on its flagship management program PGDM in Fashion-Retail Management. He also spoke about this program's tie-up with Manchester Metropolitan University, UK and the lucrative career that students are likely to embrace on completion of this program.

Emerging Trends in Fashion and Retail Industry NITRA Technical Campus NITRA Technical Campus (NTC), the academic wing of NITRA, organized a seminar on Emerging Trends in Fashion and Retail Industry on 5th April'14 at India International Centre, New Delhi. Keeping in view the strong desire of today's youth to work in fashion and retail sectors and to familiarize them with the emerging trends in these sectors, the seminar was specifically designed for the students of textile and fashion colleges pursuing UG and PG level programs. In this context it may also be noted that NTC offers a 2-year full-time comprehensive PGDM program on Fashion Retail Management thus opening the gate for a rewarding career for young boys and girls.

Finally, the CEO of Luxury Connect, Abhay Gupta enthralled the captivating audience with his lively presentation on potential of luxury retailing in India thus unfolding a highly niche market. An interactive panel discussion and Q&A with professionals of tomorrow in the audience ensured that the seminar was of immense benefit to the young students.

Mr. Sanjay Jain, Vice-chairman, NITRA and MD, TT Group, graced the occasion as session chairman. The seminar was further enriched by the presence of well renowned and seasoned speakers from fashion and retail industry of India and UK. About 200 students and faculty members from leading institutes of Northern India attended the seminar. In his welcome address, Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA, formally welcomed the speakers and delegates and spoke on the present scenario of Indian fashion and retail industry and the future prospects of these sectors.

Mr. Sanjay Jain, Vice-Chairman, NITRA and MD, TT Group presenting memento to Mr. Abhay Gupta CEO, Luxury Connect

Ms Victoria Markham, senior lecturer with MMU, UK giving presentation in the seminar

Mr. Sanjay Jain, while conducting the session, emphasized on the growing prominence and potential of homebrands in India's fashion-retail market. He also acknowledged its valuable contribution to build and strengthen 'Brand India' in the global perspective and thereby opening job opportunities in the country. The presentation session was breathtaking. Tarang G. Saxena, senior engagement leader with Third Eyesight deliberated on global fashion brands in Indian retail, followed by well-known productivity & lean management consultant Pooja Makhija, who opened up the nuances of new-age merchandising for fashion industry. Victoria March - April 2014

Seminar on Emerging Trends in Fashion and Retail Industry in progress

Mr. Partha Basu, Public Relation Officer and Sr. Faculty, NITRA coordinated the seminar. 405

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To conclude, Dr. M. S. Raizada, Director-Academics, NTC while proposing the formal vote of thanks opined that NTC, which is already a premium college and ranked 16th amongst the engineering colleges under UPTU, will soon become a hallmark of all-round excellence for nurturing corporate professionals for tomorrow in the areas of Engineering & Technology, and Management Sciences as well.

NEWS

PICANOL shows 4 Airjets and 3 Rapiers at ITMA-ASIA + CITME 2014 Headquarters in Belgium One of the big assets of this cross border entrepreneurship is the mixture of drawing upon the know-how & quality standards from the Picanol Group, combined with good understanding of its local customers.

As one of the world's leading weaving machine manufacturers, Picanol has always had a very close relationship with the Chinese textile industry. This relationship is not a matter of chance or coincidental developments: on the contrary, it is the result of long-term, strategic planning by the Picanol management.

With more than 150 engineers and strong R&D teams headquartered in Belgium, Picanol invests heavily in R&D activities every year. Picanol's R&D aims not just at development and production of the most advanced weaving machines, but also achieving the most profitable weaving process in the world.

In this firm belief, Picanol sent its first pioneers to explore the possibilities in the Far East, already in the early 1950s. Picanol took part in one of the first international exhibitions held in Beijing.This was the period when Picanol salesmanagers, still based in Ieper, crisscrossed the Orient to promote its weaving machines at exhibitions and technical seminars.

Picanol offers nine types of weaving machines: the OptiMax, GT-Max, GTMax-i and GTXplus with rapier technology, the OMNIplusSummum, OMNIplus 800, TERRYplus800, OMNIplus 800 TC and the OMNIplusX with airjet insertion technology. Together, these machines cover the full spectrum of textiles including apparel, household and technical fabrics. The high degree of digitization of all these machines, together with their Sumo main drive, ensures a lower weaving cost, higher quality of the fabrics produced, greater flexibility and exceptional ease of operation in comparison with other weaving machines.

The growing installed base of Picanol machines in China, as well as the increasing demand for a higher level of service & support resulted in the establishment of thePicanol Service Centre, which was set up in Shanghai in 1987. A network of local service engineers was also established to serve the other South-Asian countries.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The next step in the history of Picanol in China was the set-up of PST, Picanol Suzhou Textile Machinery Works, thus starting its career as a Chinese textile machinery manufacturer. This set-up took place in 1994 and we celebrate this year the 20 years existence of Picanol Suzhou Textile Machinery Works.

Our product portfolio at ITMA-CITME: Get the most out of your Energy, Material, Market, Time and Talent: At the occasion of the ITMA-Asia + CITME fair (1620 June, Shanghai) Picanol will present a wide variety of weaving machines, both airjet and rapier.

PST was Picanol's first major production line outside Belgiumand the technology and organization were based entirely on the assembly concept employed at the company's headquarters in Ieper. Today PST houses a complete production unit with 3 assembly lines for 4 product types (GT-Max, GTMax-i and GTXpluswith rapier technology and the OMNIplus-X with airjet insertion technology), a mechatronics division, a sales, service and spare parts organization. The majority of the Chinese management, engineers and technicians have been trained in Belgium.

Besides the OMNIplusSummum, also the OMNIplusX will be on display. This machine is engineered and produced in Picanol's Suzhou plant in China, but using the proven OMNIplus 800 technology. The OMNIplusX responds to the requirements of the Asianmid-end segment. A novelty on this machine is that it is now also available in 280 and 340 cm widths in addition to the existing weaving widths of 190 cm and 220 cm. Here special attention was given to improved quality output, user friendliness and lower energy costs.

Machines produced in PST aim at the top layer of the mid segment and are besides in China, also quite successful in the new emerging textile regions outside China.

As for the rapier machines, the highlight is an OptiMax weaving a coating fabric on a 540 cm machine equipped with batching motion. On another OptiMax a fancy 406

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NEWS denim fabric will bewoven. For the first time the new GTMax-i rapier machinewill be shown. This new weaving machine is a further development of the existing GT-Max. The main highlights of the GTMax-i are the reinforced gripper system and heavier machine drive, which allows higher production speeds. Also the dobby and undermotion have been completely redesigned. OptiMax 4 - P 540 weaving a coating fabric In total 7 Picanolmachines will be on display.Five on its own booth (Hall E1, booth A02). One PicanolOMNIplusSummumwith jacquard will be on display at the Bonasbooth and another one on the Staubli booth.

Warp Yarn count Material Density Weft Yarn count Material Density Drawing in width

As a technological market leader, Picanol constantly invests in R&D to assure the highest performance of its weaving machines, both for new machines and for those already installed in the field. For each new product development launched on new machines, the Picanol aftermarket team investigates how the new feature can bring a solution or benefit to get the most out of the weaving machine. Also the after market upgrade possibilities will be presented on the Picanol booth.

1100 dtex Polyester 6,8 ends/cm 1100 dtex Polyester 6,8 picks/cm 520 cm

Picanol weaving machines on display

Warp Yarn count Material Density Weft Yarn count Material Density Drawing in width

OptiMax 4-R 190 weaving a fancy denim fabric Warp Material Density Weft

Yarn count

Material Density Drawing in width

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Ne 8,6/1 Cotton 24,8 ends/cm 300 denier - DTY 100 denier- FDY 250 denier - DTY Ne 16/1 Polyester - Cotton 19 picks/cm 184 cm

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Ne 10/1 Polyester-Cotton 23,7 ends/cm Ne 16,5/1 Polyester-Cotton 25 picks/cm 167 cm

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

OMNIplusSummum 4-P 190 weaving a bottom weight fabric

NEWS Warp Yarn count Material Density Weft Yarn count Material Density Drawing in width

dtex 610 Polyester 32,7 ends/cm dtex 610 Polyester 18 picks/cm 183,5 cm

GTMax-i 4-R 190 weaving a seersucker fabric Warp

Yarn count ground warp Yarn count top warp Material Density Weft Yarn count Material Density Drawing in width

Ne 80/2 Ne 41/2 Cotton 33 ends/cm Ne 32/1 Cotton 30 picks/cm 175 cm

Bonas booth: OMNIplus Summum-4-J-190 weaving a furnishing fabric Warp Material Density Weft

Yarn count

Material

Density Drawing in width

OMNIplus-X 2-P 280 weaving a sheeting fabric

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Warp Yarn count Material Density Weft Yarn count Material Density Drawing in width

Ne 60/1 Cotton 72 ends/cm Ne 40/1 Cotton 42 picks/cm 264 cm

150 den Pes 47,71 ends/cm 1/20 Nm 1/27Nm 40% viscose, 55% polyester, 5% polyamide, 100% viscose 34,3 picks/cm 155,5 cm

Innovation is a constant at Picanol. An R&D team of over 150 researchers are working day-in-day-out on performance, efficiency, user friendliness and versatility of the Picanol weaving machines, so that the weaving industry can get the most out of its energy, time, material, market and talent. This makes the Picanol machines the most innovative in the world. Teaming up with Picanol is the best guarantee for weavers of being competitive and profitable - now and in the long term. See you at booth A02 in Hall E1! For more information please contact Mr. Erwin Devloo, +32 057 222 090 or e-mail: edv@picanol.be

Staubli booth: OMNIplus Summum-4-J-190 weaving an automotive fabric 408

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NEWS

Retail for Elders Emerging New Opportunities Stealth marketing to the elderly The Ueshima coffee shops that dot Tokyo seem like any other chain. But look more closely: the aisles are wider, the chairs sturdier and the tables lower. The food is mostly mushy rather than crunchy: sandwiches, salads, bananas - nothing too hard to chew. Helpful staff carries items to customer's tables. The name and menu are written in Japanese kanji rather than Western letters, in a large, easy-to-read font. It is no coincidence that Ueshmia's stores are filled with old people.

much shorter than their juniors in Japan). O Loyalty cards at Keio award points not according to what you buy, but according to how often you visit. "Senior's have a lot of time on their hands," the marketer explains. Marketing to the elderly is tricky. The direct approachsay, calling your product "the soap for the over 70s"does not work. And traditional advertising fails. "You can't use TV adverts: they forget them," groans the 30-something executive. "We show it again and again and they still can't recall it," he sighs. Word-of-mouth is the only way.

Ueshima never explicitly describes itself as a coffee shop for the elderly. But it targets them relentlessly and stealthily. Stealthily, because the last thing septuagenarians want to hear is that their favorite coffee shop is nursing home in disguise.

Decades ago it was rarely profitable to market products to seniors, since by the time anyone had reached the age of 70 they probably had only a few years left to live. But Japanese people now live so long-life expectancy for women is 86; for men it is 80-that wooing them is lucrative.

Japan is graying fast: already a fifth of its people are over 65. And the "silver generation" has gold to spare. The incomes of middle-class working folk have declined in the past decade, but seniors are sitting on a vast pile of savings. Almost a third of the nation's house hold wealth, some 450 trillion ($5.8 trillion), is in the hands of those aged 70 and older. In the West, the elderly pinch pennies, but Japan's seniors pay extra. At Ueshima a medium-sized coffee is 380, about 10% more than at Starbucks.

Some firms try to hook them in their 60s, to build brand loyalty early. Others approach them via their children. Once cosmetics firm pitches is wrinkle-removal cream to middle-aged women, in the hope that they will recommend it to their mothers. Filial piety comes in many forms. Today's time where the marketing is tough, innovation is the moral of the day, every day we must look into the new opportunity and business success it depends how innovative we are in day today life while conducting with business whatever level it may have. Compiled and Sourced by Mr. Arvind Sinha CEO & Chief Advisor M/s. Business Advisors Group Mumbai Cell No. 9820062612, E-mail : arpsinha09@gmail.com

The shelves are lower, so older people can reach them. (Because of wartime food shortages, the elderly are

Book your marketplace on www.textileassociationindia.org March - April 2014

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Many firms tailor their services to silver shoppers without letting on, explains a marketing specialist. Consider the Keio department store. On the outside, nothing warns you that it is a mecca for the mature. But inside there are chairs for weary shoppers. Signs are in large fonts. Many sales people are in their 50s and 60s, since elderly customers trust such people more than whippersnappers. The food hall promotes good old-fashioned Japanese noodles more than newfangled foreign muck.

NEWS

RIETER Presents THE 4 COM4® YARNS in FIBERS & YARNS EXPO MUMBAI

RIETER'S 2014 Annual General Meetinmg RIETER'S 2014 ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING ADOPTS ALL MOTIONS - DIVIDEND RAISED TO 3.50 CHF PER SHARE (+41%) -SHAREHOLDERS APPROVE AMENDMENTS TO THE ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION

Fibers & Yarns Expo - one of the most important international trade exhibitions for the apparel and textile industry - will be held at Mumbai. Rieter, exhibiting on stand C39, is the only machine manufacturer participating. Prime focus will be centered on the Rieter Com4® yarns, their advantages in downstream processing and on their typical end products.

The Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd adopted all motions proposed by the Board of Directors. Against the backdrop of the strong annual results reported for 2013, the company's sound financial basis and the positive outlook for the current year, shareholders approved a dividend increase to 3.50 CHF per share (2.50 CHF per share in 2013). Shareholders adopted the motions proposed by the Board of Directors to amend the Articles of Association to comply with the Regulation against excessive compensation at listed public companies (VegüV), which came into effect on January 1, 2014. Erwin Stoller, Chairman of the Board of Directors, and Dr. Jakob Baer, Michael Pieper, This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald, Dr. Dieter Spälti and Peter Spuhler, directors, were re-elected for a one-year term of office. This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Erwin Stoller, the members of the Compensation Committee who were standing for election, were each confirmed for a oneyear term of office.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Com4@ - Yarns of choice

The Rieter Com4® yarns Under the slogan "Com4® Yarns - Yarns of Choice" Rieter will present the 4 yarn brands - Com4®ring for ring-spun yarn, Com4®compact for compacted ringspun yarn, Com4®rotor for rotor-spun yarn and Com4®jet for air-jet spun yarn from Rieter. Each yarn will be individually presented and the most important yarn characteristics and range of application will be explained. The various yarn bobbins, fabric samples and end products available on the Rieter stand will provide visitors with the opportunity to get to know the practical usages of the various yarns. In addition fabric samples and end products created with the new Com4® yarns can be examined.

The 123rd Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd was attended by 687 shareholders representing 66.1% of the share capital. In a consultative vote the shareholders approved the Remuneration Report for 2013. They thus adopted all motions proposed by the Board of Directors, including approval of the annual report, the annual accounts and the consolidated financial statements for 2013, and formal approval of the actions of the members of the Board of Directors and those of the Group Executive Committee in the 2013 financial year.

Texttreasure

Let Rieter Com4® yarns convince you personally and collect your brochure with the contact details of all Rieter licensees and reference customers from their stand C39.

Liberty without Learning is always in peril and Learning without Liberty is always in vain - John F. Kennedy 410

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SASMIRA's COE-AGROTECH PARTICPATION INTECHNOTEX-2014 (COE-Agrotech) designated by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. It is establishing a one stop solution for all sectors related to Agrotextiles like farmers, industrialist, academicians etc. It has made up a mission of creating awareness among the farmers about the Agrotextile products and help them in its uses, so that productivity of agricultural produce can be increased and use of scarce natural resources like water, land etc can be optimized. SASMIRA has established state of the art Testing Laboratory, Agrotextile Information & Training Center, Demonstration plant for the development of various Agrotextile products like shade-nets, mulch fabrics- woven as well as non-woven etc.

Technical Textiles are an important segment of the textile industry and its potential is still largely untapped in India. TECHNOTEX is India's premier annual exhibition on technical textiles to promote and facilitate the growth of this sector. This international exhibitioncum-conference provides stakeholders from across the value chain an ideal platform to interact and forge alliances with textiles industries from across the globe. Technotex-2014 was held from 20th to 22nd March 2014 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. It was organized by FICCI in association with Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Program was inaugurated by Ms. Zohra Chaterji, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. In total 81 exhibitors participated during the program. Different type of technical textile (like Agrotextiles, Protective textile, Geotextiles and Medical textile etc.) manufacturers, traders, trading service providers and testing service providers had exhibited their products and services. Ministry of Textiles appointed COE's namely SITRA (COE-Meditech), BTRA(COE-Geotech), NITRA (COE-Protech) ATIRA(COE-Composite), DKTE (COE-Nonwovens), WRA(COE-Sportech) had also participated in the program.

Ms. Zohra Chaterji (IAS), Secretary, MOT, GOI, discussing with Shri U.K. Gangopadhyay (Executive Director, SASMIRA)

During Technotex -2014, COE-Agrotech displayed variety of Agrotextile samples like shade-nets, bird protection nets, mulch fabrics etc. A brief write-up on different Agrotextile products its uses, benefits and list of manufacturers was distributed to the visitors. A short video film based on the applications of Agrotextiles for the farmers was shown to the visitors, apart from Agrotextiles, Information on other area of activities like R&D, Testing Services, Instrumentation & various Educational programmes were also displayed & distributed during the program. Approximately 150 visitors including students, academicians, industrialists and potential entrepreneurs visited the SASMIRA stall.

SASMIRA participated as a Centre of Excellence for Agrotech at Technotex-2014 Exhibition (Stall No: 23 B). SASMIRA is a Centre of Excellence for Agrotech

Technotex-2014 provided COE-Agrotech an interactive platform. Overall it was quite enriching experience for SASMIRA team.

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Visitors at SASMIRA Stall

NEWS

Technical lecture & interaction

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

with Mr. Sumit Gupta, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Mr. Sumit Gupta is an eminent personality in the field of organic cotton production & processing and he is the representative of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) in India. Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Department of Textile had organized Technical lecture & Interaction with Mr. Sumit Gupta on 20th March 2014, under the banner of Students Chapter - The Textile Association (India), MP Unit.

In this technical event some eminent personalities from the TAI MP Unit were present. Prof. T.K. Sinha has given introductory speech of the event. Director Incharge Mr. V.P Singh highlighted the importance of such Technical lectures in his speech. Mr. N.S Nirban (President-TAI MP Unit) concluded the session & Mr. R.C. Gupta (Chairman, TAI MP Unit) has given motivational speech for the students and Mr. Ajay S. Joshi proposed vote of thanks.

L to R: Prof. T.K. Sinha, Mr. Sumit Gupta, Mr. N.S. Nirban, Prof. Ajay Joshi

Director In-charge Mr. V.P Singh welcoming Mr. Sumit Gupta

The lecture was focused on importance of Organic cotton and its acceptance worldwide. He also discussed about various norms and standards that are to be followed by an industry to get recognition and modifications that are required in textile manufacturing process.

The event was attended by approx. 50 students and followed by refreshment for invited guest and industry personals. A token of appreciation was also given to Mr. Sumit Gupta and was requested to guide our students in their project and help in their training and placement.

Textsmile Did you hear about the blind carpenter who picked up his hammer and saw? Did you hear about the deaf shepherd who gathered his flock and heard (herd)? Mr. Sumit Gupta addressing to audience 412

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Ministry of Textiles GoI)

"Technical Textiles is the next sunrise industry for India, say experts at Technotex 2014" Highlighting the theme for this year's conference, this is 'Accelerating technical textile usage and strengthening institutional buying',

The inaugural session of Technotex 2014, the 3rd international conference on technical textiles highlighted the vision of the industry towards taking this sector to new growth trajectory. Organized jointly by the Ministry of Textiles and FICCI, key officials of the Ministry of Textiles, as well as the states of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Karnataka were present at the conference, which was attended by stakeholders from both India and overseas. Shri Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman - Textiles and Technical Textiles Committee, FICCI, opened the session outlining the huge potential of the technical textiles sector, which is currently US$ 13 billion in size and expected to grow at 20 per cent per annum in the next two years. With imports touching US$5 billion, he stressed on the urgency for India to develop indigenous products to boost domestic growth.

L to R: Dr. D.A. Venkatesh, Commissioner for Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Karnataka, Shri Kamal Dayani, Industries Commissioner, Government of Gujarat, Shri Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, Textiles and Technical Textiles Committee, FICCI, Smt. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Shri Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Shri Sunil Porwal, Principal Secretary - Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, Shri Pramod Khosla, Chairman - ITTA March - April 2014

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Shri Jaipuria said that technical textiles had a major role to play in the growth of the overall textiles sector in India. He also mentioned that Technotex had grown in stature with countries participating from all across the globe. This year the event had two major delegations from Taiwan and more than 40 international companies. The event, which also had a buyer-seller meet, a unique platform for foreign companies to network and actively engage with Indian companies in this rapidly growing market. Shri Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, threw light on the initiatives of the government focused around promotion of technical textiles in India. He said that this year Technotex aimed

NEWS to build and enhance the 'investment' environment for the technical textiles sector in the country.

framework for investment in this sector. Shri Sunil Porwal, Principal Secretary - Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, spoke of technical textiles as a good business opportunity for investors. Especially for a state like Maharashtra, he said, that an investor can leverage the opportunity as the state has social, physical, finance infrastructure in place as well as the trade and the market along with a positive policy and transparent environment. He added, "The usage of technical textiles is widespread and its impact on other sectors is immense, investors must use this opportunity to grow."

He highlighted a few schemes, starting with the four centres of excellence that were raised to eight in the Technology Mission programme of 2010, along with encouraging entrepreneurs and start-ups to engage in this sector. The government aimed at strengthening research in this field, organizing buyer seller meets, providing a national policy framework and also promoting the agro technical textiles in the north eastern states where two demonstration centres are already under way, to showcase the benefits and usage of technical textiles, especially natural fibres. To generate skilled manpower, the subject has also been made part of the curriculum in schools and colleges through the intervention of the Indian Technical Textiles Association (ITTA). Technotex aimed to provide a road map for the industry to explore the repository of technical textiles in India.

Calling it the next sunrise sector for India, Smt. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India gave a detailed insight into the vision of the government for the technical textiles sector. The government was looking at a five-fold increase in the fund outlay for the sector during the 12th five year plan. A major initiative will also be to drive up the growth of the sector in the north-eastern states. A pilot scheme budgeted at Rs 500 crore has also been proposed for geo textiles. There are also plans to hike the FDI for this sector. The government has already launched an integrated skill development scheme to train 15 million people in this field by 2020.

The representatives of the states of Karnataka, Gujarat and Maharashtra, spoke on the different initiatives launched by their respective state governments to promote technical textiles.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. D.A. Venkatesh, Commissioner for Textiles Development and Director of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Karnataka, spoke on Karnataka as an ideal investment destination for technical textiles as it provided a congenial industrial climate, had availability of infrastructure for investment especially the land bank, an investor- friendly textile policy, skilled labour and a special package for investors of technical textiles. He says, "Through Technotex, the government has given us a platform to discuss and negotiate an investment opportunity in the field of technical textiles, which is a prospering industry."

Smt. Chatterji said that the entire idea and effort was to make India a leading global hub for technical textiles by providing a conducive investment framework and that the private sector had a great role to play in making it a reality. A Knowledge Paper on Technical Textiles was launched at the event. Shri. Pramod Khosla, Chairman - ITTA drew the inaugural session to a close by giving the vote of thanks.

Your Gateway to the Global Textile & Apparel

Shri Kamal Dayani, Industries Commissioner, Government of Gujarat, gave an overview of the investment avenues in Gujarat for technical textiles. He said that while the potential of this industry and its application is huge, the consumption in comparison is miniscule, almost less than 2-3 per cent of the global pie. He said, "There is a need to relook at building some innovative products in this sector, which will drive up the demand and this required a collaborative effort from all the stakeholders." He further mentioned that the new textile policy of Gujarat had listed a number of incentives for investors as it aimed to encourage and enhance the 414

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Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science Textile Alumni Meet 2014 It was a great moment, where all the alumni of Dept. of Textile Technology gathered on a same platform to relive their college life. College life is the best part of everyone's life and keeping this in mind, Department of Textile Technology of Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science (SVITS) had organized Textile Alumni Meet 2014 on 15th February, 2014, where the alumni of past 15 batches gathered. On this auspicious day, the presence of our respected Trustee members Shri Purushottam Das Pasari (Chairman), Shri Manohar Baheti, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradia (Secretary), Dr. Ing. V.P. Singh (Director), Dr. V.N. Walivadekar (Principal), and Shri Shantipriya Doshi (President, Indore Ready Made Garment Association) as Chief Guest for the event, had made the event more graceful and special.

After all the speeches, the tour of enjoyment, fun and joy began with the events like Dance, Singing, Drama and Mime with the documentary movie playing in parallel. One after the other, graceful performances made the atmosphere more enjoying. In between the performances, fun games were also organized, which our alumni enjoyed the most. Event came to the rest with the memento distribution and proposed vote of thank by Mrs. Yogita Agrawal.

Around 55 Alumni members had attended along with their family at the institute. Event started with the Inauguration Ceremony followed by motivational speeches by dignified Trustees, Director and Principal welcome speech by HOD Textile Technology, Mr. T.K. Sinha.

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Arrangement for breakfast and Lunch of Alumni, Faculty members and volunteers was arranged at college canteen.

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Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science Department of Textile Technology Visit & Interaction with Dr. Hari Kenkare, Lectra Technology, Bangalore Dr. Hari Kenkare from Lectra Technology, Bangalore has visited our department & discussed various matter and presented seminar to the textile students on 28.02.2014.

Students, Faculties & Staff of Textile Technology Department

He has given knowledge that Lectra was born in the fashion industry forty years ago and understands the complexity of both daily management and the operational change needed to develop apparel while remaining competitive. Four decades of pioneering technology have shaped our design, development, and production solutions to meet 21st-century challenges.

Prof. T.K. Sinha offering memento to Dr. Hari Kenkare

During his visit, firstly he visited textile department then general brief intro was given by Prof. T.K. Sinha & Mr. Ajay Joshi. In this interaction, major outcome are as follow1. 2. 3.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He emphasised on ten point on which company believes i.e.

Jointly organize some seminar, workshop/FDP or Conference in coming months Remote support session for conducting short term course Establish a business incubation centre for providing project basis support to the garment manufacturing units nearby Indore Placement support

After this discussion, he presented a technical sound lecturer to the textile students in the auditorium followed by the formal welcome. In his address, Dr. Hari mentioned about various garment software of that the company make and how the technology has reduced the manual work and provided the accuracy in work.

Market survey

Price and value

Product and manufacturing

Color

Smart design solution

Texture maping

Product engineering

3D revolution

Marker engineering

10) Smart cutting room He has guided the students about the requirement of market and meaning of fashion technology. The head of department Mr T.K Sinha presented an award of honour to Dr. Hari and Mr. Ajay Joshi has proposed votes of thanks.

Texttreasure Liberty without Learning is always in peril and Learning without Liberty is always in vain - John F. Kennedy

The seminar was attended by 50 students and faculties & staff of Textile technology department. 416

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WACKER Opens Representative Office in the Philippines Munich / Manila, April 2, 2014 - WACKER, the Munichbased chemical company, is strengthening its presence in South East Asia by opening a Philippine representative office in Manila. Opened yesterday, the office will distribute products of the chemical business divisions WACKER SILICONES, WACKER POLYMERS and WACKER BIOSOLUTIONS, catering for customers in the construction, adhesives, automotive, electronics, textile, leather, personal care and food industry. It will thus allow WACKER to further expand its global presence and footprint across the region and provide optimum local support to its customers and business partners. The office in Makati City is WACKER's fifth in South East Asia.

office will better serve the Philippine customers, supporting the company's growth in the region The representative office does not only cater to the construction business, but also markets other WACKER products, including silanes, silicone emulsions, silicone resins, and sealants for the automotive, electronics, textile, leather, and personal care industry, as well as cystein and cyclodextrin products for food manufacturers. "Our primary goal is to offer our customers and partners in the Philippines products and solutions perfectly matched to their require-ments and thereby help them to enhance their own business success. The opening of our office allows us to provide better local support than ever", said SEA Managing Director Patrick de Wolf at the opening ceremony in Manila.

For more than 30 years, WACKER has been a preeminent tech-nology leader in construction chemicals across South East Asia (SEA), providing a wide range of products and solutions including dispersible polymer powders for skim coats, tile adhesives, self-leveling flooring compounds, and water-proofing membranes as well as silicone sealants and adhesives. The Manila

WACKER now has 25 sales offices in Asia, five of them located in South East Asia: Bangkok (Thailand), Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam), Jakarta (Indonesia), Manila (the Philippines), and Singapore, which also is the company's regional headquarters.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) (an ISO 9001:2008 certified association)

Sr. No.

Type of Membership

One Time* Fee

Annual* Fee

Corporate Member

INR 15,000

Patron Member

INR 3,200

Life Time Member

INR 2,100

Overseas Member

USD 100

Life Time to Patron Member

INR 1,300

Student Member

INR 250

â&#x2014;&#x2020; â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Plus add 12.36% service tax Online registration also available on www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/application-form or contact respective TAI Unit

For more details contact The Textile Association (India) Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org March - April 2014

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Membership Fees

NEWS

India ITME Society's Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015 B2B Market place for Textile Technology & Engineering - GTTES 2015 A new Series by India ITME Society ◆ ◆ ◆

Event of the Industry For the industry By demand from industry.

the world's largest textile machinery market. Keeping in view the massive Intra- Asia trade with a growth of 8% CAGR and at US$180 Billion, ITME Society has launched a "Focus Asia" edition of exhibition to be held alternatively with ITME Series.

India ITME Society announces launch of "Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia", an exclusive show for highlighting strengths of Asian Textile Engineering Industry in Mumbai, India. This special business event is being held from 20th -22nd Jan 2015 at Bombay Exhibition Centre. Established in 1980, 34 year old veteran organization in Textile Machinery Exhibitions- India ITME Society is committed to creating quality business, new business opportunities and marketing channels for Textile and Textile Engineering Industry through specialized events.

The Asian market demand for textile machinery and demand for high performance demand for high-quality, high degree of automation and energy-saving equipment is growing. Now the region is on the verge of entering a new phase with Intra-Asia trade predicted to double to explosive US$350 BY 2025, making it most attractive market block for exporting nations. Global apparel market is expected to cross US$2 Trillion mark. 70 % of world fiber processing takes place in Asia. China, India and Pakistan account for 60% of world fiber consumption. Bangladesh and Vietnam are also emerging as competing textile economies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The objective of GTTES 2015, a special series event is not only to showcase technology/machinery but also to address the needs of quality, variety, allied services, access to regional markets and clientele, especially for small medium enterprises. This event is to be held alternately with ITME Mega event in the years to come to encompass all aspects of textile business, technology and services.

The scope and opportunity in Indian market is unfathomable with only a small portion of the potential tapped till now. World-renowned manufacturers of textile machinery such as Germany Truetzschler, SSUESSEN, Switzerland Rieter, Italy Savio, Japan Toyota, etc., has strong presence in India, indicating a strong buyer's market and long term opportunity in urban as well as regional markets in the country.

Something unique- The highlights of GTTES 2015 are: 1. Special Focus on weaving Machinery, Garment Machinery, Knitting & Embroidery machinery, Non woven and Technical Textiles, digital printing and Technical information services . 2. Country pavilion from China and Taiwan ensuring large scale participation and variety to address market needs. 3. For the first time in India, a focused event to magnify business and trade for Textile Machinery manufacturers through interaction with agents/ dealers of India and overseas . 4. Exclusive exhibition section for Spare parts, Components and Accessories of Textile Machinery across segments

Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry in India. It is predicted that combined size of Chinese & Indian Apparel market will become bigger than USA and EU, making this a future opportunity for textile engineering and services. Apart from this, in India there is large scope for technical textile linked with growing industrialization, large infrastructure projects in stream. Government Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme with an investment target of Rs.151,000 crore is a big boost to machinery sector. Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available.

Why one should participate and attend this "Focus Asia" Exhibition held in Mumbai, India? Asia today is the center of the global textile industry,

India's competitiveness has significantly improved in the last 10 years (2002-12) resulting in higher market 418

March - April 2014

NEWS share. India's factor cost, particularly power and wages, have become relatively competitive in comparison with China. Manufacturing costs in spinning, weaving and processing have also become competitive.

If you represent a Textile Engineering company anywhere in the world, this is an event not to be missed. If you are a Textile company in Asia, manufacturing or doing business, GTTES 2015 is the event to be in. GTTES 2015, India is your opportunity, window to infinite leads, contacts, enquiries.

India ITME Society stitching a new catalyst for Indian market opportunities-

This is a very intense focused business event and it is important that if you are in the Textile Business you should be there in person.

Thus demand and need of the time gave birth to Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia, an exclusive and unique event to match the need to supply. ◆ Already participation from China, Taiwan, Japan and Indonesia are confirmed in large scale. ◆ A special pavilion for spare parts, accessories and components catering to Textile machinery is organized to give focused customer experience to manufacturers to push exports. ◆ Another unique and never before opportunity is being created for agents and dealers at GTTES 2015- Focus Asia to meet and expand their clientele, especially for weaving, technical textile segment etc. which has a huge opportunity in India.

Contact ITME Society at itme@india-itme.com and confirm your participation as exhibitor, for business meeting, for visiting.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

For more details contact India ITME Society 76, Mittal Tower, "B" Wing 210, Nariman Point Mumbai - 400 021 Tel.: 0091-22-22020032, 22828138, 22851579 Fax : 0091-22-22851578 E-mail : gttes@india-itme.com; Website: www.india-itme.com/GTTES2015

March - April 2014

419

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

420

March - April 2014

NEWS The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Annual Conference on "Indian Textiles - The Journey Ahead" The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit is organizing a Annual Conference on "Indian Textiles - The Journey Ahead" on Friday, 14thNovember 2014 at Hotel The Lalit, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 059. The expected participation is over 300 delegates comprising of eminent industrialists, policy makers, reputed textile professionals and renowned experts. It is sure that this Conference will receive overwhelming response from the industry. You have always been an ardent supporter of TAI, Mumbai Unit and its activities. We look forward for your active participation and generous support in the form of sponsorship as well as deputing your company delegates. TAI offers widest publicity and visibility to its supporters and sponsors. The options available for various sponsorships are given below. This sponsorship will give multifold benefits to your esteemed organization, in addition to support & meeting the objectives of TAI, viz. dissemination of knowledge & creating awareness amongst the textile professionals. Topics to be covered: ◆ Catalytic Impact of Policy Initiatives in the development of Textile Industry-A case of Gujarat State ◆ Garment business and Supply Chain management ◆ Challenges in meeting Consumer demands ◆ Factory to Consumer - Handling of textile goods ◆ Product Specifications as a USP ◆ Continuous Dyeing Technology & Pad Batch ◆ Speciality Functional Finishing by Nanotechnology ◆ Challenges in environmental compliance-Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals ◆ Credit Access to Textile and Clothing Sector ◆ Challenges related to foreign exchange _uctuations ◆ Intellectual Property Rights: Ethical business practices ◆ Innovative Freight Solutions for the Textile Industry Conference Partners The conference provides an excellent opportunity for companies to gain global visibility and publicity by promoting their products and services to a highly focused audience besides networking with the participants from various parts of the world. The partners are assured of full publicity through brochures, book of papers, backdrops, etc. Sponsorship Platinum Partner Diamond Partner Gold Partner Silver Partner Bronze Partner Supporter Lunch

Benefits Booth Space, Colour Ad, 5 Delegates Complimentary Booth Space, Colour Ad, 4 Delegates Complimentary Booth Space, Colour Ad, 3 Delegates Complimentary Booth Space, Colour Ad, 2 Delegates Complimentary Colour Ad, 1 Delegates Complimentary 1 Delegate Complimentary Booth Space, Colour Ad, Lunch Banner with Name & logo, 2 Delegates Complimentary 8 High Tea : 1,00,000 /Colour Ad, High Tea Banner with Name & Logo, 1 Delegate Complimentary 9 Tea : 50,000 /Tea Banner with Name & Logo, 1 Delegate Complimentary 10 Delegate Kit : 2,00,000 /Colour Ad, Name & Logo on Kit, 2 Delegates Complimentary 11 Book of Papers : 2,00,000 /Name & Logo on Back Cover Page of the Book of Paper, Colour Ad, 2 Delegates Complimentary All the sponsors' logo will be displayed on backdrop and will be printed on brochures & other seminar distribution materials. : : : : : : :

Amt. (Rs) 5,00,000 /4,00,000 /3,00,000 /2,00,000 /1,00,000 /50,000 /2,00,000 /-

The TAI, Mumbai Unit has set a high tradition of organizing very successful conferences/seminars and provide maximum publicity and visibility to their valued sponsors. The Conference provides an excellent opportunity for companies to gain global visibility and publicity by promoting their products and services to a highly focused audience. The sponsors are assured of full publicity through brochures, book of papers, backdrops, inserts including your companies leaflets, CDs, etc. We are announcing this Conference well in advance so that you can block your dates for the same. We look forward to meet you in this grand event. If you require any further information, please do not hesitate to contact us. V. C. Gupte Chairman & Convener March - April 2014

A. V. Mantri Hon. Secretary 421

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sr 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

NEWS

HOMAGE

Shri Bhailalbhai has been conferred with Service Gold Medal in 1977. He was instrumental in establishing the some of the TAI Units and also in revival of non active units. Shri B.A. Shah was active in various trade & charity organizations. He was well known in the textile circles of Gujarat & National level due to his prominent and dynamic role in the Textile Association. He was guiding force to TAI and always helping nature. The BESNU (Condolence) was organized by the family members of Mr. Shah on 12th May, 2014 (Monday) was attended by all family relatives and friends along with many textile technicians.

Shri BHAILALBHAI A. SHAH (B.A. SHAH) Past President, The Textile Association (India) 22-09-1928 - 10-05-2014 It is regretted to inform that a dynamic personality & an ideal leader Shri Bhailalbhai A. Shah, Past President of The Textile Association (India), passed away on Saturday, 10th May, 2014 at the aged 85 years at Ahmedabad. He was very active in the functioning of TAI and it is a great loss to the Association, his family and also to all his friends.

The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit also paid SHRADDHANJALI to Late Shri B.A. Shah on 15th May, 2014 by organizing the condolence meeting, in which Shri D.R. Mehta, National President and Shri K.D. Sanghvi, Chairman, TAI Central attended. Well-known Textile Technicians, Textile Co-owners as well as other textile related Govt. and Semi Govt. Organization personalities attended in big numbers and paid tribute to Late Shri B.A. Shah and prayed for the peace to Soul of the Departed and courage to the family members to bare the loss.

Shri Bhailalbhai Shah was working more than five decades in various position of Ahmedabad Unit. He was Past President and a Member of Board of Trustees of Ahmedabad Unit. He was very actively associated with TAI Central Office and worked on various capacities.

The Condolence messages are also received by mail from rest of The Textile Association Units from various part of India.

President : 1983-1987 Vice President : 1979-1983 Chairman : 1975-1979 Hon. Gen. Secretary : 1971-1974 Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary : 1969-1970 Also was also a member of Board of Trustees.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

We pray to almighty to give the strength to the members of his family at this hour of departure of our beloved friend Shri Bhailalbhai Shah. May his soul rest in peace!

422

March - April 2014

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE

The Textile Association [India] (An ISO 9001:2008 Certified Association) Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67 Ranade Road, Dadar, Shivaji Park, Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145, Fax: 022-24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com RESULTS OF ATA PART - I, (Old) PASSED / ATAHE CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013 Centre / Result

PASS

ATAHE

Bangalore

2013/OA/20,

Nil

Bhilwara

Nil

Nagpur

Nil

Registered

Appeared

Passed

ATAHE

RESULTS OF ATA PART - II (Old) PASSED CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013 Centre

Spinning

Weaving

Chemical Processing

T.T. & Q.C.

Bhilwara

Nil

Nagpur

Nil

Candidate

Spinning

Weaving

Chemical Proce.

T.T & Q.C

Total

Registered

Nil

Appeared

Nil

Passed

Nil

RESULTS FOR GMTA, SECTION A/B/C/D (OLD) - PASSED CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013 Section B

Bangalore

Nil

Spinning Nil

Bhilwara Delhi Ichalkaranji Indore

Nil Nil Nil Nil

Mumbai Nagpur

Nil Nil

Candidates

Section - B

Section - C Weaving 2013/BAC/01-W, Nil 2013/DEC/30-W, Nil 2013/INC/10-W, 2013/INC/11-W, Nil Nil

Section D Chem. Proc. Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil

Section -C Spinning

Weaving

Chem. Proc

2013/DED/40, 2013/DED/41, Nil Nil 2013/ICD/30, 2013/IND/10, 2013/IND/11, Nil 2013/NAD/20,

Section -D

TOTAL

Registered

Nil

Appeared

Nil

Passed

Nil

March - April 2014

423

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Centre

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE RESULTS FOR GMTA (REVISED) - SECTION A/B/C - PASSED CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013 Centre

Section A

Section B

Section C

TOTAL

Bangalore

2013/BANA/01,

Nil

Delhi

2013/DEA/10,

Nil

2013/DEC/01,

Indore

20113/INA/20, 2013/INA/22, 2013/INA/24,

2013/INB/01, 2013/INB/02,

Nil

Nagpur

Nil

Candidates

Section - A

Section -B

Section -C

TOTAL

Registered

Appeared

Passed

RESULTS FOR ATA PART - I (Revised) - PASSED / ATAHE CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013 Centre / Result

PASS

ATAHE

Ahmedabad

2013/NA/12,

Bangalore

Nil

2013/NA/02, 2013/NA/06, 2013/ NA/07, 2013/ NA/09, 2013,NA/10, 2013/ NA/11, 2013/NA/20,

Bhilwara

Nil

2013/NA/30, 2013/NA/31, 2013/NA/33, 2013/NA/34,

Delhi

Nil

Ichalkaranji

2013/NA/42,

2013/NA/40, 2013/NA/44,

Indore

Nil

2013/NA/50,

Mumbai

Nil

2013/NA/60, 2013/NA/61,

Nagpur

Nil

2013/NA/71, 2013/NA/73,

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Total

Registered

Appeared

Passed

ATAHE

Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 Mobile: +91-22-9819801922 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, taicnt@mtnl.net.in 424

March - April 2014

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE RESULTS FOR ATA PART - II (Revised) DECEMBER, 2013 Centre / Result

PASS

ATAHE

Ahmedabad

2013/NA/501, 2013/NA/502,

2013/NA/504, 2013/NA/505,

Bangalore

Nil

Bhilwara

Nil

2013/NA/510,

Coimbatore

Nil

Delhi

2013/NA/520, 2013/NA/521, 2013/NA/522, 2013/NA/523, 2013/NA/24,

Nil

Ichalkaranji

2013/NA/530, 2013/NA/531, 2013/NA/532, 2013/NA/533, 2013/NA/534,

2013/NA/535,

Indore

Nil

2013/NA/540, 2013/NA/541, 2013/NA/542, 2013/NA/543, 2013/NA/544, 2013/NA/545, 2013/NA/546,

Mumbai

Nil

Nagpur Total

2013/NA/561, Registered

Appeared

Passed

ATAHE

The following candidates result with held for non receipt of Industrial Report: 2013/NA/503 of Ahmedabad Centre & 2013/NA/510 of Bhilwara Centre

Centre

Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing

Knitting & Gar ment Manufacture

Ahmedabad

Nil

2013/NA/801, 2013/NA/802,

Nil

Bangalore

Nil

2013/NA/810,

Nil

Bhilwara

Nil

Delhi

Nil

Ichalkaranji

Nil

2013/NA/720,

2013/NA/832, 2013/NA/834,

Nil

Indore

2013/NA/610, 2013/NA/611,

2013/NA/731,

2013/NA/842,

Nil

Mumbai

Nil

Nagpur

Nil

March - April 2014

425

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

RESULTS OF ATA PART - III (Revised) - PASSED CANDIDATES - DECEMBER, 2013

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE Candidate

Yarn Manufacture

Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Knitting & Total Garment Mfg.

Registered

Appeared

Passed

Roll Roll Roll Roll Roll Roll

No. No. No. No. No. No.

2013/NA/610 2013/NA/611 2013/NA/720 2013/NA/731 2013/NA/801 2013/NA/810

Indore Centre got 61% marks Ist Class Indore Centre got 52% marks IInd Class Ichalkarnji centre got 57% marks IInd Class Indore centre got 58% marks IInd Class Ahmedabad centre got 51% marks IInd Class Bangalore centre got 54% marks IInd Class

The following candidates result with held for non receipt of Industrial Report: 2013/NA/710 - Delhi centre, 2013/NA/711 - Delhi centre, 2013/NA/730 - Indore Centre, 2013/NA/820 - Delhi Centre, 2013/NA/821 - Delhi Centre, 2013/NA/822 - Delhi Centre 2013/NA/823 - Delhi Centre The following candidates result with held for non completion of ATA Part-II: 2013/NA/840 - Indore Centre, 2013/NA/841 - Indore Centre

Now Read Online Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) Pathare House, R.N. 6, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4974

E-mail:taicnt@mtnl.net.in, taicnt@gmail.com 426

March - April 2014

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE

The Textile Association [India] Schedule of A.T.A. Part-I, II & III (3 Years New Course) - December 2014 ATA Part-I

Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.

ATA Part-II

Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.

Date

Subjects

Date

Subjects

24.12. 2014

Basic Engineering Sciences

24.12. 2014

Principles of Yarn Manufacture

25.12. 2014

General Engineering

25.12. 2014

Principles of Fabric Manufacture

26.12. 2014

Textile Fibres

26.12. 2014

Principles of Textile Wet Processing

27.12. 2014

Elements of Textile Technology

27.12. 2014

Principles of Textile Testing and Statistics

28.12. 2014

Elements of Comp. and its Applications

28.12. 2014

Industrial Organization and Management

ATA Part-III - Time: 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Compulsory Subjects 24.12. 2014

Elements of Technical Textiles

25.12. 2014

Man-Made Fibre Technology

Optional Subjects Date

Yarn Manufacture Group

Fabric Manufacture Group

Textile Wet Processing Group

Knitting & Garment Manufacture Group

26.12.2014

Process Control in Yarn Mfg.

Process Control in Fabric Mfg.

Wet Processing-I

Knitting Technology

27.12.2014

Modern Yarn Manufacture

Modern Fabric Manufacture

Wet Processing-II

Garment Technology

1. Last Date for receiving applications at unit 25th July 2014 2. Last Date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit 25th August 2014 3. Last Date for receiving applications at the central office 25th September 2014

Section - A

Time: 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.

Section - B

Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.

Date

Subject No. & Title

Date

Subject No. & Title

24.12. 2014

A-1 Engineering Physics

24.12. 2014

B-1 Yarn Manufacture

25.12. 2014

A-2 Engineering Chemistry

25.12. 2014

B-2 Fabric Manufacture

26.12. 2014

A-3 Engineering Mathematics

26.12. 2014

B-3 Textile Wet Processing

27.12. 2014

A-4 General Engineering

27.12. 2014

B-4 Apparel manufacture

28.12. 2014

A-5 Professional Orientation

28.12. 2014

B-5 Textile Testing

Section - C: Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Date

Subject No. & Title

24.12. 2014

C-1 - Textile Fibre Science

25.12. 2014

C-2 - Polymer Technology

March - April 2014

427

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Schedule of G.M.T.A. (Revised) Examination December 2014

EXAM RESULT & SCHEDULE 26.12. 2014

C-3 - Textile Engineering Mechanics

27.12. 2014

C-4 - Applied Statistics

28.12. 2014

C-5 - Data Management and Information System Section - D: Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.

Date

Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Text. Wet Processing

24.12. 2014 Short Staple Yarn

Advanced Fabric

Wet Proc-Pre Treatment

Manufacture

& Bleacg.

25.12. 2014 Long Stap & other Yarn Manufacture

Knitting Technology

Wet Proc.-Dyeing

26.12. 2014 Engineering Design & Yarn Structure

Engineering Design of Wet Proc-Printing & Fabric Structure Finishing

Manufacture

27.12. 2014 Process & Quality . Process Control &

Apparel Manufacture Apparel Technology

Supply Chain Mange in Apparel Mfg. Apparel Merchandising

Analytical Chem. In

Garment Processing

Textiles

Tech.

Fabric Structure & Design

Process & Quality Management in Wet Processing

Process Control & Quality Manage in Apparel Mfg.

29.12. 2014 Specialty & High Performance Yarns (s)

Non Woven Technology

Colour Theory & Col. Matching

Social & Trade Compliances

30.12. 2014 Silk Reeling &

Technical Textiles

Effluent Treat & Eco

Garment Acces. &

Management &

Quality Management

Yarn Mfg

in Fabric Manufacture

28.12. 2014 Man-made Fibre Technology

Optional Papers

Throwing Technology

Friendly Processing

Fashion Forecasting

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

31.12. 2014 Quality & Envir. Quality&Environment Quality & Environ System in Yarn Mfg. Systems In Fabric System in Wet Proc. Mfg.

Visual Merchandising

Dr. G. S. Nadiger Co-Chairman, P. A. C.

428

V. D. Zope Hon. Gen. Secretary

March - April 2014

SUBJECT INDEX

Subject ◆ EDITOTIAL: ◆ Everyone wants Cleaner Technologies: But none knows who pays? ◆ Spreading the Warps and Wefts of Indian Textiles beyond the Indian Shores ! ◆ A giant take off in the direction of success! ◆ Germen Technology meets Indian Textiles ◆ Platinum Jubliee of TAI : A milestone to be proud of! ◆ The Textile Association (India) Celebrates Platinum Jubilee ◆ ◆

BIOTECHNOLOGY: Novel Bio-colorants for Textile Application from Fungi

◆ ◆

DYEING: Dyeing of Milk Fibre with Marigold and Turmeric Dyes Simultaneous Natural Dyeing and Antibacterial Finishing of Bamboo Rayon Influence of Substitution of Madder by Marigold in Colouration of Natural Fibres Reactive Dyeing of Cotton with Layer-byLayer Technique Flower Waste from Temple for Dyeing of Cotton and Cotton/Silk Dyeing of Organic Cotton Fabric with Lac Dye using Different Mordants

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

◆

FINISHING: Application of Silicone based Finishes on Cotton to Enhance its Properties Application of Nano Zinc Oxide sol on Cotton Fabric for UV Protection Studies on Surface Cleaning of Silk Fabrics using Liquid Carbon Dioxide Dimensional Stability of Woven Fabrics due to Soaking and Washing in Relation to Yarn Characteristic Fire Retardant and Mosquito Repellent Jute Fabric Treated with Thio-urea

March - April 2014

Authors

Issue Page

M.D. Teli

R.V. Adivarekar M.D. Teli M.D. Teli

3 4 5

114 198 263

M.D. Teli

334

Sudha, C. Gupta & S. Aggarwal

282

M.D. Teli, Javed Sheikh, Sanket P. Valia & Pushkar Yeola M.D. Teli, Javed Sheikh, Maruti Kamble & Rupa Trivedi M.D. Teli, Sanket Valia & Asmita Jadhav S.D. Phadke, S. Maiti, P.V. Madiwale & R.V. Adivarekar M.D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia & Dhanashri Kolambkar M. D. Teli, Sanket P. Valiaa, Dhanashri Kolambkara, Rupa Trivedib & Maruti amble

117

122

210

337

Mosmi Rupareliya, Namrita Nola & Ashutosh Mairal R.H. Deshpande & A.I. Wasifr

S. Kavitha & J. Srinivasan

215

Veena Verma

219

S. Basak, Kartick. K. Samanta, 5 R. Narkar, S.K. Chattopadhyay, M. Bhowmick, S. Das & A.H. Saikh

273

429

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION VOLUME 73 - MAY 2013 TO APRIL 2014 SUBJECT INDEX

SUBJECT INDEX ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Smita Honade, Neeraj Shrivastava, Aniket Bhute & C.W. Acharya Subhankar Maity

126

131

K.P. Chellamani, R.S. Vignesh Balaji 3 & J. Sudharsan Prabhjot Kaur & Navjot Kaur 3

140

Subhankar Maity

360

M.D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia, & Shruti Venkatram

298

M.M .El-Molla, Zeinab H. Ismaeil, Fekria M.A. Soliman & Shaimaa H. Abd-El Monem Saptarshi Maiti & R. V. Adivarekar

293

◆ ◆

NONWOVEN: Characteristics and Effects of Fibre Crimp in Nonwoven Structure

◆ ◆

OTHERS: Branded or Non Branded Garments? A Study on Consumers Preference

◆ ◆

PROCESSING: Synthesis of Several Newly Disperse Dyes and their Application in Textile Printing

◆

Dendrimers - An Auxilliary in Dyeing

◆ ◆

SPINNING: Derive an Expression of Individual Fibre Stress in Spinning Triangle

Nitesh Kumar Jangir

◆ ◆

TECHNICAL TEXTILES: Geotextiles and its Application in Coastal Protection and Off-shore Engineering Textile Electrodes for ECG & EEG Monitoring

Ashis Mitra

N. Muthu Kumar, & G. Thilagavathi

S.D. Bhambure, A.J. Dhavale, P.V. Kadole, & D.V. Kodavade M.Y. Gudiyawar & Vijay Goud

228

Prabir Kumar Choudhuri

228

K.P. Chellamani, D.Veerasubramanian 6 & M.K. Vittopa

353

V.R. Sai Ganesh

S. Srinivasan S. Srinivasan Mr. Sanjay Harane Mr. Edward Walter Menezes Mr. B. Purushothama

2 3 4 5 6

87 150 235 303 367

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

◆ Journal of the TEXTILE Association

MANAGEMENT: Advancements in Computer Colour Matching: Colour Matching through Internet The Application of Advanced Control Charts in Textiles Quantitative and Qualitative Requirements of Cotton in the 12th Five Year Plan Period Enterprise Social Responsibility: A Pledge for Knitwear Industry of Ludhiana

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

TESTING & ANALYSIS: Artificial Neural Network & its Applications in Textiles Wicking Behavior of Draw Textured Yarns and their Fabrics Application of Multi-Criteria Decision Making (MCDM) Technique for the Selection of Vegetable Dyes Inter-relationships Between Deviation Rate (DR%) in Yarn Mass and Variations in Yarn Tensile Characteristics and Fabric Appearance TEXPERIENCE: Textile Industry - an ocean filled with opportunities Understand the limitation of an average figure Output Reconciliation (A case study) Few practical aspects for pollution reduction Case Studies Balancing Work Life: With Special Reference to Textile Industrym

430

March - April 2014

SUBJECT INDEX

◆

TEXNOTE: RSL in Textile Wet Processing A Series of Papers on Biotechnology and its Application in Textiles Bio-based products and their application in Textile Fundamentals of microbial biotechnology

◆

Enzymes: The Vital Tools in Textile Industry

◆

Antimicrobial finishes and testing methods

◆ ◆

WEAVING: Design Modification in Electrical Warp Stop Mechanism and its Effects Effect of Different Weaves and Pick Densities on Thermal Properties of Fabric Predicting Strength Properties for Ring and Compact Egyptian Cotton Spun Yarns Using Artificial Neural Network

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

◆ ◆

Saptarshi Maiti & Shyam Phadke Madhura P. Nerurkar, Mansi Joshi & R.V. Adivarekar Manasi A. Damle, Madhura P. Nerurkar & R. V. Adivarekar Manasi A. Damle, Madhura P. Nerurkar & R.V. Adivarekar Manasi A. Damle, Madhura P. Nerurkar & R. V. Adivarekar Manasi A. Damle, M.P. Nerurkar & R. V. Adivarekar

1 2

40 89

152

240

308

373

S.V. Koravi & S.G. Kulkarni

201

Nitish Sarda & S.B. Mhetre

342

M. H. El-Shakankery, Ibrahim, A.E.I. & El-Banna, A.A.A.E.

346

1. Place of Publication

The Textile Association (India), Central Office Pathare House, R. N. 6, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028.

2. Periodicity of Publication

Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year)

3. Printer's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri Ashok Bagwe Indian Sundaram Art Printing Press 12, Wadala Udyog Bhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala, Mumbai - 400 031.

4. Publisher's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri J.B. Soma Indian 7-A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS. Ltd. New Dindoshi MHADA Colony, Near NNP No. 1 &2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 065

5. Editor's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Dr. Ravindra V. Adivarekar Indian Dept. of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology,Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019

6. Name and address of individuals who own the newspaper and partners holding more than 1% of the total capital

The Textile Association (India), Central Office 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028

I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true Mumbai 1st March 2014

March - April 2014

to the best of my knowledge and belief.

431

(Sd/-) J.B. SOMA Publisher

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

FORM IV (See Rule 8) Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - MUMBAI UNIT Organizes One day Conference on "Indian Textiles - The Journey Ahead" Date : Friday, 14th November 2014 Time : 09.00 a.m. to 06.00 p.m. Venue : Hotel The Lalit Mumbai, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 099 Contact : Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 86, College Lane, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel : +91-22-2432 8044, 2430 7702, Fax: +9122-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in, taimu@net9online.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com

Heimtextil India India's Leading Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles Date : 19th to 21st June, 2014 Venue : Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India Contact : Mr. Syed Javed Tel.: +91-022-61445900 E-mail : syed.javed@india.messefrankfurt.com Website : www.heimtextil.in ITMACH - International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition Date : 10th to 13th December, 2014 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. Arvind Semlani - M.: +91-9833977743 Mr. Farid K.S. - M.: +91-9869185102 Tel. : +91-022-22017013/61 E-mail : info@itmach.com, arvind@textileexcellence.com, farid@textileexcellence.com

ABROAD ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 Date : 16th to 20th June, 2014 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China 2345 Longyang Road, Pudong New Area, Shanghai P.R.C. 201204

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha Unit hosting 70th All India Textile Conference Date : 17th & 18th January, 2015 Venue : Vasantrao Deshpande Hall, Nagpur, India Contact : Mr. Hemant Sonare, Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India) Vidarbha Unit 26, Raghuk, Pragati Colony, Near Pragati Hall, Chhatrapati Squre, Wardha Road, Nagpur - 440 015 M. : 9860930380 , 9822573341 E-mail : hemantsonare@gmail.com, texcellence12@rediffmail.com

The Textile Association (India) organizes in Association with Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) WORLD TEXTILE CONGRESS 2014 Theme : "Global Textile - Opportunities & Challenges in an Integrated World" Date : August, 2014 (Date will be announced later) Venue : Bangkok, Thailand Contact : Mr. Arvind Sinha - Conference Chairman The Textile Association (India) Central Office Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : +91-022-24461145, Fax: +91-022-24474971 M. : +91-9820062612 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, lionasinha@gmail.com

1st Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015 - FOCUS ASIA Organized by India ITME Society Date : 20th to 22nd January, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : India ITME Society, 76, Mittal Tower, B Wing, 210, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021, India Tel. : +91-22-22020032, 22828138, Fax : +91-22-22851578 E-mail : gttes@india-itme.com, itme@india-itme.com, Website : www.india-itme.com/GTTES2015

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 Date : 16th to 20th June, 2014 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre, (SNIEC), Shanghai, China. Tel. : +86-10-85229662, 85229224 Fax : +86-10-85229480 E-mail : itmaasiacitme2@bijtime.com Website : www.itmaasia.com

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March - April 2014