E journal mar apr '16

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SPINNING

PEER REVIEWED

The Process Dynamics of Egyptian Cotton G-86 with a Compact Spinning Machine Ibrahim A. Elhawary1* & Mohamed Y. Naeim2 1 Alex Univercity, Egypt 2 SETT-COR Spin Mill, Egypt

1. Introduction Compact spinning is a new conversion for the ring spinning and it started to be applied in the Egyptian spinning industry in the last few years but it is still not commonly used. Nowadays some of new spinning mills in Egypt started to install more updated compact spinning machines as Rieter K44 compact spinning.

applied onto the yarn. Fibers are caught by the air current in the perforated drum soon after they leave the nip point until they reach the nip point. The air current influences the fibers to pass along the slot and therefore the fibers are condensed by means of the aerodynamic forces caused by the air current [5]. (See figure -1.1)

So studying & evaluating the fine yarn quality produced by the new ring spinning technology of compact spinning from Egyptian cotton, within long term period of time (5 years) could be a key for gaining a competitive advantage over companies in an industry. With the ever-changing textile industry and many manufacturers moving overseas, the compact spinning technology could lead to the competitive edge the Egyptian spinning industry needs for producing super quality fine yarns.

There have been numerous studies performed on the different compact spinning systems in order to study and compare the compact yarn characteristics with the conventional ring spun yarn, Guldemet Basal [1], Chang et al. [2], Cheng et al. [4], Krifa et al. [6,7], Stalder [10] Momir et al. [9], Nasir [8], Cankut et al. [3]. These researches concluded that the Compact yarns are claimed to be stronger and have better breaking elongation compared with the conventional ring spun yarns, also stated that compact spinning greatly reduced the hairiness of yarns.

Rieter compact spinning principle depends on replacing the bottom delivery roller with a perforated drum with larger diameter. Inside the perforated drum, there is a stationary suction insert having a slot in direction of fiber flow so that an extra transverse force could be *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) Ibrahim Elhawary, Faculty of Eng, Alex Univercity, Egypt. E-mial : hawary_45@yahoo.com March - April 2016

Figure 1.1: Rieter compact spinning principle [5] 361

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Abstract In the present work, Giza 86 cotton (long staple cotton) was used to produce a different fine yarn with counts 14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex on both of compact and ring spinning frames. The different yarn properties like, CVm%, tenacity, elongation, and hairiness were measured for both the two type of yarns. The relative yarn quality factor RYQF was calculated to detect the more suitable range of yarn counts for the compact spinning it was found that it ranges from 1.1 to 1.3 for range of yarn tex from 14.7 to 7.4 referring to the hairiness reduction it was found to be 31% for yam tex 9.8 the improvement in the yarn breaking elongation was 10%, the improvement in the yarn tenacity was 14%, while the reduction in the turns per meter in the compact spinning was 4%. And improvement in the yam mass variation was about 5%. On the other hand it was found that the improvement in the single compact yarn total imperfections was not statistically significant, But generally it was found that the yarn total imperfections of the single yarn were less for the compact spun yarns compared with the conventional ring spun yarns especially for the fine counts.


SPINNING Our practical experience with compact spinning for more than 5 years working with 41,000 Rieter compact spinning spindles (K44 M/C) producing different fine yarn counts produced from Egyptian cotton make our aim in this investigation is to study how far the compact spinning improve the quality of the Egyptian fine cotton yarns.

sured by Uster Tensorapid 4. The measured results of conventional and compact spinning were compared and statistically analyzed by SPSS program (Statistical Package for Social Science).

2. Material and methods HVI spectrum Bale Manger Software tests was used which selects sixty four bales from long staple Egyptian cotton G86. Table 2.1 summarized the average fiber test results for the selected bales.

Parameter Count Process (output) Carding 4.54 ktex

Table 2.1: Physical fiber Characteristics of G86 cotton from HVI spectrum Spinning Fineness Maturity Upper half Uniformity Short Strength Elongation Consistency (Îźg/inch) (%) mean length index fiber (gm/tex) (%) Index (mm) index SCI

MIC.

Mat.

Len.

Unf.

SFI

Str.

Elg.

200

4.66

95

32.42

86.9

5.78 45,4

5.78

The selected cotton bales were preceded in the spinning mill under the mill running condition to produce combed yarn of counts 14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex on both a conventional ring spinning machine, and a compact spinning machine as sown in Table 2.2. The yarns produced were tested according to ASTM. The mass irregularity, yarn hairiness, and yarn faults were measured by Uster tester 4 (UT4). Yarn tenacity (cN/ tex)*, and yarn breaking elongation (%) were mea-

Table 2.2: Processing parameters for yarn counts from 14.7tex to 7.4tex G86

Breaker Draw Frame Unilap Combing Finisher Draw Frame Speed frame

Doubling

Speeds

Notes

.........

83 m/min

Cylinder Speed = 400rpm Lickerin speed = 1300rpm

4.54 ktex 70 ktex 4.9 ktex

5 28 8

600 m/min 120 m/min Lap length = 300m. 350 Noil=17% nips/min

4.9 ktex

8

400m/min

491.6 tex

1

1000rpm

atex=960.2 TPI= (1.1 )

3. Results and discussions The summary of the test results for several cotton spun yarn counts produced on both of the compact and the conventional ring spinning M/c are given in Table 3.3. The results were statistically tested by t -test and given in Table 3.4.

Table 3.3: The average results of Warp combed yarns

Conventional Ring Spinning

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Compact Spinning

Count (tex)

Cotton

TPM

a_tex

U%

CVm%

14.7

G86

945

3630

9.49

11.94

`Thin Thick -50% +50% / Km / Km 0.48

9.13

Neps/ +200% Km 7.24

Total Hairiness Elong. Elong. Tenacity Tenacity IPI Index % Cv% cN / tex Cv% 16.85

3.13

4.99

8.52

26.09

7.33

11.8

G86

1102

3780

9.84

12.42

1.00

16.05

12.50

29.55

2.76

4.76

9.09

26.20

7.84

10.5

G86

1130

3660

9.48

11.83

1.13

9.00

22.00

32.13

2.87

4.48

9.20

25.28

8.00

9.8

G86

1175

3680

9.82

12.35

1.67

11.42

19.57

32.66

2.50

4.73

9.20

26.38

8.40

7.4

G86

1408

3820

11.65

14.00

22.62

34.40

42.00

99.02

2.46

4.41

9.70

24.17

10.45

14.7

G86

996

3820

9.68

12.17

1.09

7.55

8.95

17.59

3.86

4.64

8.33

24.27

7.51

11.8

G86

1122

3850

10.28

12.94

3.04

16.30

17.42

36.76

3.63

4.43

9.27

23.04

7.81

10.5

G86

1130

3660

9.93

12.45

2.90

9.10

25.50

37.50

3.75

3.92

8.80

22.62

8.50

9.8

G86

1220

3820

10.60

13.37

9.90

23.09

43.20

76.19

3.63

4.09

8.90

21.90

8.90

7.4

G86

1496

4040

11.83

14.90

57.80

49.00

47.60

154.40

3.33

4.22

10.10

20.70

10.40

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion 362

March - April 2016


SPINNING Table 3.4: Statistical analysis results of Warp compact & ring spun yarn properties (t-test)

Yarn Count (tex)

14.7

11.8

10.5

9.8

7.4

Yarn type

Ring

Comp. Ring

Comp. Ring

Comp.

Ring

Comp.

Ring

Twist Multiplier (atex)

3820

3630

3780

3660

3820

3680

4040 3 820

Yarn Prop.

3850

3660

Comp.

P*

P*

P*

P*

P*

Mass Variation [CVm%]

0.004***

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.011***

Thin Places [+50%/ Km]

0.009***

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.025***

Thick Places [+50%/Km]

0.075**

0.146**

0.18**

0.465**

0.012***

Neps [200%/ Km]

0.018***

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.228**

Total Imperfections

0.611**

0.056**

0.000***

0.000***

0.007***

Yarn Hairiness [H]

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.005***

Yarn Tenacity [cN/ tex]

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

0.002***

0.24***

0.53**

0.000***

0.000***

0.000***

Yarn Elongation [E %]

0.000***

(*Significance values, ** the results are not statistically significant, *** the results are statistically significant)

Figure 3.2: Mean total imperfections of different yarn counts of Compact and ring yarns.

These figures illustrates that, the yarn mass variation of the single compact spun yarn is lower than the yarn mass variation of the single conventional ring spun yarn by about 5%. That improvement in the single yarn mass variation was found to be statistically significant as shown in Table 3.4. This may be related to the compact yarn structure and more fibers integrated to the yarn body. Figure 3.3 shows the relationship between the total yarn imperfections versus yarn count for warp compact & conventional ring spun yarn. Figure 3.3 illustrates that for warp yarn count 14.7&11.8tex the total imperfections for single compact and conventional ring spun yarn appeared to be similar, also from Table 3.4 it was found that there is no statistical significance between the yarn total imperfections of single compact & ring spun yarn for yarn count 14.7&11.8tex but when the count goes to finer side (10.5 to7.4tex) it was found that the total yam imperfections for single conventional ring spun yarn increase more than the compact spun yam and that increment is statistically significant.

Figure 3.3: Mass variations of different yarn counts of compact and ring yarns. March - April 2016

363

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.1 Yarn mass variation Figure 3.2 shows the relationship between the yarn mass variation of compact and conventional ring spun yarn versus yarn count.


SPINNING 3.2 Yarn total imperfections (IPI) This improvement may be due to the suction applied in the condensation area that suction during machine running sucks the dust, very small trash and very short fiber. By the way the suction inserts could be blocked. Also may be due to the mechanism of the yarn formation of the compact yarn which reduce the spinning triangle hence reduce the fly fibers in the spinning room. In general the total yam imperfections of single compact yarn are better than the total yarn imperfections of the equivalent single conventional ring spun yarn count by about 34%.

This may be related to the mechanism of the yarn formation on the compact spinning. It could be concluded that the compact spinning makes a significant improvement in the single yarn hairiness. 3.4 Yarn strength

Figure 3.5: Tenacity of different yarn counts of compact and ring yarns.

Figure 3.5 shows the relationship of yarn tenacity versus yarn count for warp compact and conventional warp ring spun yarn. Figure 3.4: Hairiness index of different yarn counts of compact and ring yarns.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.4 shows the relationship of the yarn hairiness index versus yarn count. This figure illustrates that the hairiness level of the single compact yarn is lower than the level of the single conventional ring spun yarn. The reduction in yarn hairiness level reaches for example to 31% in 9.8tex and the average was 24% this reduction in the yarn hairiness is statistically significant as shown in Table 3.2. This may be related to the mechanism of the yarn formation on the compact spinning. It could be concluded that the compact spinning makes a significant improvement in the single yarn hairiness. 3.3 Yarn Hairiness Figure 3.4 shows the relationship of the yarn hairiness index versus yarn count. This figure illustrates that the hairiness level of the single compact yarn is lower than the level of the single conventional ring spun yarn. The reduction in yarn hairiness level reaches for example to 31% in 9.8tex and the average was 24% this reduction in the yarn hairiness is statistically significant as shown in Table 3.2. * Nowadays cN / tex is changed to Mpa (Mega Pascal) 364

This figure illustrates that yarn tenacity of single compact spun yarn is higher than the yarn tenacity of the single conventional ring spun yarn for yarn counts (14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex), in spite of the turns per meter given to the single compact yarn is less than the turns per meter for the single conventional ring spun yarn count by about 4% it was found that the increase in the yarn tenacity by approximately 14% for warp single yarn. This can give to the spinning mill the opportunity to increase the speeds and productivity while maintain the yarn tenacity. This advantage of compact yarn makes most of the mill customers require the compact yarn in weaving. This increase in the single yarn tenacity may be due to the reduction of the spinning triangle by the air suction in the compacting zone which leads to more fiber contribution in the yarn structure hence more fiber in the yarn cross section. That will give less probability for fiber slippage.

Texttreasure Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.-Antoine de Saint -ExupĂŠry March - April 2016


SPINNING 3.5 Yarn Breaking Elongation

The results of the yarn relative yarn quality factors represented in Table 3.5 Table 3.5: Relative yarn quality factors for ring and compact yarns Yarn Count (tex)

Figure 3.6 shows the difference in yarn breaking elongation between the conventional ring spun yarn and compact spun yarn. This figure illustrate that the yarn elongation of the compact spun yarn is better than the yarn elongation for ring spun yarn. From this figure it can be shown that the yarn breaking elongation of single compact yarn for this range of yarn counts increased by about 10% more than yarn breaking elongation of the single conventional ring spun yarn. This may be related to the reduction in the spinning triangle which makes more fibers integrated into the yarn cross section. Relative yarn quality factor

Compact yarn

Ring Yarn

14.70

82589.21

75319.92

1.10

11.80

79987.41

67329.41

1.19

10.50

80109.53

68431.93

1.17

9.80

80700.97

62065.99

1.30

7.40

62325.56

52565.53

1.19

4. Conclusion From the previous results & discussions and within the range of our experimental work, the following conclusions can be drawn out: 1.

2.

3.

The following formula used to calculate the relative yarn quality factor: 4. (Y.Q.F) Compact R.Y.Q.F = --------------------------(Y.Q.f )ring 5. While the yarn quality factor is calculated from the following formula:(CSPĂ—Yarn Str. cN ) ( tex Y.Q.F= ----------------------------(U%) CSP :Count strength product U% : Yarn evenness

March - April 2016

R.Y.Q.F

6.

7.

The compact yarn mass variation is statistically better than the yarn mass variation of the conventional ring spun yarn by 5%. There was no statistical significant difference in the yarn total imperfections between the single compact yarn and conventional ring spun yarn especially but n general the total yarn imperfections of single compact yarn are better than the total yarn imperfections of the equivalent single conventional ring spun yarn count by about 34%. The compact spinning makes a significant improvement in the single yarn hairiness reach to 31% in yarn count 9.8tex and the average was 24%. The yarn tenacity of single compact yam was higher than the yarn tenacity of the single conventional ring spun yarn by about 14% while the reduction in the yarn terns per meter was about 4%. the yarn breaking elongation of single compact yarn increased by about 10% more than yarn breaking elongation of the single conventional ring spun yarn. The compact spinning is more effective on single spun yarn quality for count range finer than 11.8 tex. The relative yarn quality factor R.Y.Q.F of the compact yarns with texs, Is - 7, is ranging from 1.10 - 1.19 i.e the relative yarn quality factor R.Y.Q.F is higher for, The fine counts, Than the course counts. 365

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.6: Yarn breaking elongation different yarn counts of compact and ring yarn

Y.Q.F


SPINNING References 1.

2.

3.

4. 5.

❑ ❑ ❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

6.

BASAL G., The Structure and Properties of Vortex and Compact Spun Yarns, PhD Thesis, North Caroline State University, Raleigh, USA, (2003). Chang L. and Wang. X., The Hairiness Features of New Yarns. Textile Institute 81st World Conference, The Textile Institute, Melbourne PP 110, (2001). Cankut Taskin. Arif Taner Ozguney, Pelin Gurkan, Gonca Ozcelik, and Arzu Ozerdem, Comparison of Woven Fabrics' Properties from Traditional an Compact Ring-Spun Yarns after Dyeing Processes, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 15(1), 86- 90, (2007). Cheng K.P.S., Yu C., A Study of Compact Spun Yarns, Textile Res. J., 73(4), 345-349, (2003). Comfor Spin ® - Machine K44brochure. <,www.rieter.com>,www.com4,com viewd at jan 2014. Krifa M., E. Hequet and D., Ethridge, Compact spinning: new potential for Short Staple cottons.

Textile Topics, 1(2), (2002) 7. Krifa M., and D., Ethridge, (2003), Compact ring spun yarns: an examination of some productivity issues. Textile Topics (2) 2, (2003). 8. Mahmood N."Jamil N., Iftikhar M., Irshad M. and Saleem S. (2004), Comparative Study of Compact versus Ring Spinning for Neps in Cotton Yarn, Int. J. Agri. Biol., 6(1), 153-155 (2004). 9. Nikolic M., Stjepanovic Z., Lesjak F., Stritof A., Compact Spinning for Improved Quality of RingSpun Yarns, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 11(4) 43 (2003). 10. Stalder H., Compact spinning- A new generation of ring spun yarns, Melliand Textilberichte, 76(3),E29 - E31(1995), 11. Sultan M.A & Ibrahim A. Elhawary, A comparison of the properties of Open - End And Ring Span Yarns produced from two Egyptian cottons, 15th conference of physics Group at University of Manchester, UK (1974).

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March - April 2016


DYEING

PEER REVIEWED

Development of Solid and Compound Shades on Wool Fabric using Natural Dyes M. D. Teli*, Sanket P. Valia, Maruti Kamble & Dhanashri Kolambkar Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai. Abstract The objective of this research was to study the color values and colorfastness to laundering and light of wool fabric dyed with madder (M), sappanwood (S) and combination of the both. These dyes were applied on bleached wool fabric for its dyeing after pre-mordanting with alum and ferrous sulphate. The various colour changes on wool fabric were measured by computer colour matching software. The range of colours developed on dyed wool fabrics were evaluated in terms of (L*a*b*) CIELAB coordinates and the dye absorption on the wool was studied by using K/ S values. The fastness properties of the dyed samples were found to be satisfactory. The fabric dyed with beautiful shades of natural dyes can be used for ecofriendly apparels. Keywords Extraction, Natural dye, Wool, Mordant, Madder, Sappanwood.

two approaches such as dyeing with one natural dye and then topping with another natural dye for developing a mixed shade and to use suitable combinations of mixture of compatible natural dyes to develop a compound shade in one bath [2]. 1.1. Madder (M) Rubia is a genus of the madder family Rubiaceae. It has been used since ancient times as a vegetable red dye for leather, wool, cotton and silk. For dye production, the roots are harvested in the first year. The outer brown layer gives the common variety of the dye, the lower yellow layer the refined variety. The dye is fixed to the cloth with help of a mordant, most commonly alum. The roots contain the acid ruberthyrin. By drying, fermenting or a treatment with acids, this is changed to sugar, alizarin (refer Figure 1.1) and purpurin. Purpurin is normally not colored, but is red when dissolved in alkaline solutions. Mixed with clay and treated with alum and ammonia, it gives a brilliant red colorant (madder lake) [3].

Dyers have to develop a variety of shades on natural dyed clothes, for which they may require to follow *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019 Email: mdt9pub@gmail.com March - April 2016

Figure1.1: Structure of alizarin 367

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Recently, the dyestuff industry is increasingly forced to reduce the toxic effluents and stop the production of dyes or pigments which are potentially hazardous. Moreover, due to the increased perception of environmental and health risks associated with the synthesis, processing and use of synthetic dyes, interest in natural dyes has increased worldwide, growing a new market that values products produced from natural raw materials with minimum damage to human health and the environment. The growing global trend of conservation of environmental resources and better quality of life is reflected in the textile industry as a whole, since the differentiation in products and processes is being seen as a means for consumer satisfaction. Thus, the use of the least toxic natural dyes for the dyeing of textiles can be considered a very suitable alternative, since such compounds are already environmentally compatible, have biodegradability, low toxicity and absence of allergic effects [1].


DYEING 1.2. Sappan wood (S) It is botanically known as Caesalpinia sappan L. It contains braziline (C.I natural red 24) obtained from brazilein by oxidation, as the main colour (main hue: majenta or reddish pink) component. The important part of this plant is the heartwood that contains watersoluble dyes such as brazilian, protosappanins, sappan chalcone and haematoxylin. Brazilian on oxidation yields a red dye called brazilein - the most valuable dye used in colouring leather, silk, cotton, wool, fibres of different kinds. Also it is used in batik, calico printing, furniture, floors, feathers, medicines and several handicrafts. Sappanwood yields different shades of red with or without mordant [4]. The chemical structure of the dyess brazilin in brazilwood and haematoxylin in logwood are very similar, but brazilin has one less hydroxyl group (bottom left) refer Figure 1.2 and 1.3 [5].

Figure 1.2: Brazilin natural dye

2. Materials and methods 2.1 Materials Bleached Wool fabric purchased from local market was used for dyeing. Madder and Sappanwood dyes were supplied by Adiv Pure Nature, Mumbai. Catechu dye was purchased from local market. All the other chemicals and mordants were purchased from S.D. Fine chemicals Mumbai. 2.2 Methods 2.2.1 Preparation of mordant alum A 10% stock solution of mordant alum was made by dissolving 10gm of mordant powder in 100 ml of water. Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) is the mordant most frequently used by dyers for protein (animal) and cellulosic fabrics. It improves light and wash fastness of all natural dyes and keeps the colours clear. 2.2.2 Preparation of Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Mordant A 3% stock solution of mordant FeSO4 was made by dissolving 3gm of mordant powder in 100ml of water. This is an optional mordant and is used as a colour changer. It has the added benefit of making naturally dyed colours more light and wash fast. It is more often used with cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, rayon and hemp and should be used with care on protein fibres as it can make them slightly harsh or brittle. Iron shifts a colour to a deeper, darker grayish shade. If used in the mordant process that shift is more distinct than when used directly in the dye bath.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.2.3 Extraction of Madder and Sappanwood dye A 10% stock solution of each was prepared by boiling 10gm of dye powder in 100ml of water for 60 minutes. The extract was filtered and the filtrate was made to 100ml and was used for dyeing.

Figure 1.3: Haematoxylin dye

The present study reflects the effects of application of selective natural dyes on bleached and pre-mordanted wool fabric for obtaining variety of newer and uncommon shades. It also reports the assessment of colour strength and related other colorimetric parameters for shades obtained by using these natural dyes. 368

2.2.4 Mordanting of Wool fabric Mordanting of wool fabric was carried out in Rota dyer keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The fabric was introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 600C for wool fabric and mordanting was continued for about 60 minutes. Mordanting is done by following mordants: â—† Alum 20% â—† FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2.2.5 Dyeing Procedure After mordanting the fabric was squeezed and dyed with 20%, 30% and 40% shade of Madder, and SapMarch - April 2016


DYEING panwood and also the combination of both the dye to develop compound shades. All dyeing were carried out at 600C for 60 minutes. After dyeing the fabrics were squeezed, washed with fresh water and dried. 3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Color value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of color by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using following expression; K --- = S

(1-R)² -------2R

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB color space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the color on the fabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100white, 0- black), a* to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastness Evaluation of color fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II method [6]. A solution containing 5g/ l soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor

to material ratio of 50:1 in Rota machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in color of the sample and staining on the undyed samples were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent). 3.3 Evaluation of Light fastness Dyed fabric was tested for color fastness to light according to ISO 105/B02 [7]. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature 650C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were compared with the standard scale of blue wool (ratings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent). 4. Results and Discussion The woolen fabric was dyed with Madder, Sappanwood and combination of both the natural dyes with alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. The results of K/S and fastness values of dyed samples are given in Table 4.1 which indicates that as the shade (%) increased, the K/S values also increased. This is attributed to increase in the concentration of dye in the dye bath. The a* and b* values also increased as the concentration of the dye increased. The dyed sample showed reddish yellow tone, in case of dyed samples mordanted with alum. In case of FeSO4, the K/S values were higher than alum mordanted samples indicating darkness in the tone as their L* values were lesser than L* values of alum mordanted sample. This indicates that FeSO4 treated samples gave duller shades as compared to the alum treated samples.

Table 4.1: K/S report of Madder dyed wool with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Shade (%)

Mordant

1

20%

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2

3

30%

40%

March - April 2016

K/S

L*

a*

b*

2.71 60.00 26.47 24.37 3.82 58.75

19.8

22.98

Wash Fastness Light Fastness Rating Rating 4

6

3-4

4

Alum 20%

3.69 60.80 27.44 25.87

4

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

5.06 58.93 20.69 23.98

4

3-4

Alum 20%

4.71 61.01 28.31 26.95

5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

6.24 59.39 21.92 25.23

3-4

3

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sr. No.

369


DYEING The colour fastness to washing of dyed samples mordanted with alum showed better fastness than FeSO4 treated sample. It is very clear from the results given in (Table 4.1) that light fastness of alum mordanted sample is good, but in case of FeSO4 mordant it is not so good because the fastness of a mordant dye depends on the mordant and mordanting method. Since different metal dye complexes are formed which may differ in their stability to light and also because the metal may have a positive or negative catalytic effect on the photochemical degradation of the dye impairing the light fastness properties. Results from Table 4.2 indicate that as the percentage shade increased, the K/S values of Sappanwood dyed fabric also increased. This is attributed to increase in the concentration of dye in the dye bath. The a* and b* values also increased as the concentration of the dye in the dye bath increased. For alum mordanted

in case of FeSO4 mordant it shows significant fading. The resistance of dye/pigment to chemical or photochemical attack is an inherent property of the dye chromophore but at the same time the Auxochrome may also alter the fastness either way. The substitution pattern of dyes seems to play an important role in determining the light fastness and so also stability of dye-mordant complex to light radiations. Table 4.3 summarizes the K/S values and fastness properties of woolen samples dyed with Madder and Sappanwood with their relatively different combinations using alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. From Table 3 it can be seen that, as the concentration of sappanwood was increased at the cost of madder, the K/S values decreased from pure madder to pure sappanwood in case of both the mordants. The L* values of FeSO4 sample were lesser than alum thus indicating darker shades in case of FeSO4 mordanted and dyed

Table 4.2: K/S report of Sappanwood dyed wool with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr. No.

Shade (%)

Mordant

1

20%

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2

30%

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

3

40%

Alum 20% FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

K/S

a*

b*

Wash Fastness Light Fastness Rating Rating

1.38 68.40 18.70 16.87

5

5

2.29 62.40

10.98

4

3

1.91 65.29 23.53 16.39

5

5

3.14 61.06

10.85

4

3

2.26 64.63 24.34 16.05

5

5

4.20 59.96

4

3

sample a* value were higher than those of b* indicating reddish yellow tone. In case of FeSO4 as far as the K/S values were concerned, those of FeSO4 were higher than those for alum indicating the darkness in the shade as their L* values were less than L* values for alum. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L*

The colour fastness to washing is good in case of both the mordants. It is very clear from the results that the light fastness of alum mordanted sample is good, but

5.27

6.38

7.32

10.83

sample. The a* values are slightly higher than b* values for alum mordanted sample for 30% shade indicating reddish yellow tone on the fabric. Similarly for FeSO4 mordanted sample the b* values are slightly higher than a* indicating yellowish red tone on the fabric. The dyed samples showed very good wash and light fastness properties for all the samples mordanted with alum and incase of FeSO4 the fastness properties were good.

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DYEING Table 4.3 K/S report of Compound Shade of Madder and Sappanwood (30%) dyed wool fabric with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr.

Dye Ratio

No.

M

Mordant

K/S

L*

a*

b*

S

Wash Fastness

Light Fastness

Rating

Rating

(Colour Change) (Colour Change) 1

2

3

4

5

100

70

50

30

0

0

30

50

70

100

Alum 20%

3.59

57.11

29.08

27.18

5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

5.25

50.57

22.12

26.05

4

5

Alum 20%

3.04

56.09

29.00

25.57

5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

3.84

48.57

17.52

22.07

4

5

Alum 20%

2.48

55.86

28.92

24.54

4-5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

4.91

53.29

14.30

21.74

4

5

Alum 20%

2.01

55.28

25.43

22.42

4-5

6

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2.89

46.85

11.83

18.69

4

5

Alum 20%

1.51

54.98

22.89

21.96

4-5

5

FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%

2.14

44.37

6.17

14.44

4

5

5. Conclusion A global awareness is already in place favoring the use of natural resources for protecting the environment and earth from pollution and ecological imbalances. Hence the present scenario aims towards the utilization of natural dyes. The Natural dyeing was carried out on wool fabric with Madder, Sappanwood and its combinations with mordants such as alum and FeSO4 at different concentrations. The samples were dyed after pre-mordanting with base as a mordant and then dyed with natural dyes. These different samples were tested having different combinations of dyes. Different colours were thus obtained from the combinations of mordant and natural dyes on wool fabric and the depth of the shades obtained are also good. The fastness properties of the dyed samples obtained were found to be satisfactory.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6. 7.

References 1.

Samantaa, A. K., & Agarwal, P., Application of natural dyes on textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34, 384-399, (2009). Taylor, G. W., Natural dyes in textile applications, Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics, 16(1), 53-61, (1986). M.D. Teli, Sanket Valia and Yash Agarwal, Influence of Substitution of Madder by Sappanwood in Colouration of Natural Fibres, Journal of Textile Association, 75 (2) 103-107, (2014). M.D. Teli and Sanket P. Valia, Colouration of wool fibres with Natural Dyes, Journal of Textile Association, 75 (3) 73-77, (2015). Trotman, E. R., Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibres. Wiley. (1984). ISO Technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006. ❑ ❑ ❑

Silva, A. B., Silva, M. G., Arroyo, P. A., & Barros, M. A. S. D., Dyeing mechanism of wool and silk with extract of Allium cepa. Chem. Eng. Trans, 32, 715-720 (2013).

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[Madder-M, Sappanwood-S]


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Scrutiny of Jute Fiber Poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) Resin Reinforced Polymeric Composite M. Ramachandran*, Sahas Bansal, & Pramod Raichurkar MPSTME, SVKM'S NMIMS University Abstract Green composites shaped by combination of biodegradable polymers and natural fibers have fascinated massive interest in recent years due to their environmentally beneficial properties and also to reduce our dependency on the nonrenewable resources. The main purpose of this paper is to study non-woven jute fiber sheet reinforced in Poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) resin having 90° orientation. Various tests like Impact test (IZOD test and CHARPY test), Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC) test, Fourier Transform Infra-Red (FTIR) test and Optical Imaging were performed on jute poly-lactic acid resin composite. The tests showed significant results at par with synthetic composites like polyester and epoxy etc. In upcoming years, we can carry out tests with various orientations and compositions of Jute PLA resin composites.

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Keywords Jute fibers, PLA, Composites, Impact test, DSC test, FTIR test, Optical Imaging. 1. Introduction Having an eco-friendly environment and protecting it is one of the most important concerns of every human being. Nowadays, high demand for the use of composite materials is escalating today because of high strength, high stiffness, low density and cost and light weight. The use of synthetic fiber reinforced polymeric composite materials such as carbon fiber reinforced plastics (CFRP) and glass fiber reinforced plastics (GFRP) is helpful to meet these demands but dumping difficulties that arises have surfaced as an environmental problem. Concerning this matter, natural fibers need to be considered. Therefore, the use of natural fiber reinforced polymeric composite has been springing up in terms of research and development [1].There is a wide variety of natural fibers that are available which can be used as a replacement for the existing synthetic materials or metals without compromising its potency and toughness Among all the natural fibers, jute fiber appears to be a proficient fiber and constitutes huge area of exploration due to its good mechanical properties compared with other natural fibers such as bamboo, hemp, banana, sisal, wool, etc. Jute is a long vegetable natural fiber which falls *All the correspondence should be addressed to, M. Ramchandran Asst. Prof. M P S TME, MPTP Campus, Shirpur, Dhule, Maharashta E-mail : sweetestchandran@gmail.com 372

under the category of Bast fibers [2] [3]. This fiber is mostly off white to brown colored, 1-4 meter long, cheap, soft, have high cash value, versatile nature and luster. Ignition temperature of jute is about 1930C. The jute is having high specific heat value of 1360 J/kg/K, which results good thermal insulation of jute [4]. The fineness of the jute filaments/fibers in terms linear density is 25 denier. The diameter of which will be around 0.06 mm [5]. On account of smaller length and higher thickness the length/breadth ratio is low, it is on the average 110 only for the ultimate cell and hence does not fulfill the requirement of spinning [6]. In case of resin, Poly-lactic Acid (PLA) is a biodegradable thermoplastic polymer derived from corn starch, sugarcane, tapioca roots which are all renewable resources [7]. It has an excellent biodegradability in nature such as in lake, sea, soil and compost. PLA has a glass transition temperature of around 61.50C, a melting point 1750C, crystallinity around 40% and a tensile modulus 10 GPa [8]. It is soluble in hot benzene, dioxins, chlorinated solvents and tetra-hydro furan. PLA has unique properties like good appearance, high mechanical strength, and low toxicity [9]. Because of its deformation and its low melting temperature, it is better to use it for heat-sealing and thermoforming applications [10]. For tensile modulus and flexural modulus, PLA has the highest value in comparison to PS, PP, and HDPE [11]. In the present work jute/ PLA biodegradable composites were prepared and various properties were investigated. March - April 2016


TECHNICAL TEXTILES

3. Impact Test Two standardized tests, the CHARPY and IZOD are designed and used extensively to measure the impact energy. The load is applied as an impact blow from a heavy pendulum hammer released from a position at a fixed height. The test material or specimen is positioned at the base. When the pendulum is released, it strikes the test piece and fractures it at the notch. The pendulum continues its swing raising lower that the actual height. The energy absorbed at fracture can be easily obtained by simple calculations [15]. The technique is applicable to short as well as long fiber composites. Izod Impact test is a single point technique that determines a material resistance to impact from a pendulum swinging. It can be used as an easy and quick quality control check to determine if the specimen meets impact properties and toughness.For ASTM, the standard specimen is 64×12.7×3.2 mm. The most common specimen thickness is 3.2 mm but the preferred thickness is 6.44 mm because it is not as likely to bend. The depth beneath the notch of the specimen is 10.2 mm. The Charpy V-notch test is a standardized technique which determines the amount of energy absorbed by a test material during break [16]. According to ASTM A370, the standard specimen dimension for Charpy impact testing is 10×10×55mm. Sub size specimen sizes are: 10×7.5×55 mm, 10×6.7×55, 10×5×55 mm, 10×3.3×55 mm and 10×2.5×55 mm [17]. It is widely applied in industry as the results can be obtained cheaply and quickly. Five specimens were taken for each IZOD and CHARPY test and the averMarch - April 2016

age value was 9.2 Joules and 37.6 Joules respectively. 4. Results and discussion 4.1 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) is a powerful, versatile and thermo analytical technique in which the difference in the amount of heat necessary to raise the temperature of a sample and reference is calculated as a function of temperature [18]. In case of PLA+JUTE, the glass transition temperature of JUTE is 61.040C and for PLA is 153.680C. Also, the value of glass transition temperature for Jute PLA resin composite is 146.150C (Figure 4.1). Due to the jute addition, the glass transition temperature of the composite is reduced approximately 70. This reduction will not affect the composite when it is utilized for industrial roofing sheet.

Figure 4.1: Jute-PLA composite DSC test result graph

4.2 Fourier Transform Infra- Red Test FTIR test is used to obtain an infrared spectrum of absorption or emission of liquid, solid or gas. The technique is quite simple. It can categorize unidentified materials; determine the quality of the sample and the quantity of component in a mixture, etc [18].

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2. Specimen Preparation Jute fiber was cleaned and made into non-woven sheet. It was reinforced in PLA resin and prepared in a mold having dimensions 100x100x10 (in mm) [12]. The jute PLA resin composite was fabricated by compression molding process. Compression molding is closed mold procedures in which the preheated molding material is placed in an open and heated cavity.Pressure is applied to allow the material maintain contact with all the mold areas with a plug member until the molding material has cured [13]. The jute fibers and PLA resin were placed in the mold and it is preheated at 1650C for 3 minutes under no pressure and after that 1.5 Mpa pressure was applied for three minutes at the same temperature. Furthur the mold was cooled by circulating cold water. For the sample, the combination is taken in the ratio 80:20 (PLA resin: Jute fiber) with 90 degree orientation and kept for a duration of 10-12 hours [14].

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Figure 4.2: (a) Poly Lactic Acid FTIR test result graph ; (b) Jute fiber FTIR test result graph; (c) Jute-PLA resin composite FTIR test result graph

From Poly Lactic acid FTIR test (Figure 4.2(a)), the graph shows 3 Alcohol/Phenol OH stretch, 4 Alkyl CH stretch, 1 Amide CO stretch, and 3 Aromatic CH bending functional groups. From jute fiber FTIR test (Figure 2(b)), the graph shows 2 Alcohol/Phenol OH stretch, 6 Amide CO stretch, 2 Carboxylic acid CO stretch and 1 Aromatic CH bending functional groups. From jute PLA resin composite FTIR test (Figure 4.2(c)), the graph shows the same functional groups as that of jute fiber and Poly Lactic acid FTIR test which signifies there is no chemical reactions between the fiber and the resin.

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4.3 Optical Imaging Optical Imaging is an imaging technique which describes the behavior of ultraviolet, visible and infrared light used in imaging. This technique is followed by scientists for research work and uses special properties of photons to obtain detailed images of structures including cells, molecules, etc. In the figure 3, we can easily see that the jute fibers are appropriately mixed with the composite material [19]. The first block (from the left) shows proper composition of jute and polylactic acid. The middle block shows the jute fibers which get mixed with the polymer when heated. The third final block shows both proper and improper mixture of the material with the jute fiber. The image also shows that some of the polymer granules are not correctly mixed therefore they are seen as blur.

Texttreasure First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win. - Mahatma Gandhi 374

Figure 4.3: Optical Image of Jute PLA resin composite (40X)

5. Conclusion Biodegradable composites made from Jute fibers and PLA (Poly-Lactic Acid) resin has been developed. According to Impact test, the average value is 9.2 Joules and 37.6 Joules for Izod test and Charpy test respectively. By Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), the glass transition temperature of jute is 61.040C and for PLA is 153.680C. Also, the value of glass transition temperature for Jute PLA resin composite is 146.150C. According to FTIR results, the graph of jute PLA resin composite shows the same functional groups as that of jute fiber and Poly Lactic acid FTIR test which signifies there is no chemical reactions between the fiber and the resin. From Optical Imaging, the first block shows proper composition of jute and poly-lactic acid. The middle block shows the jute fibers which get mixed with the polymer when heated above the beginning temperature of the jute and the third final block shows both proper and improper mixture of the material with the jute fiber. In conclusion, the results show that Jute-PLA resin biodegradable composites have the capability of replacing non-biodegradable synthetic fiber composites. As per the properties obtained by PLA Composites, We can use as a roofing sheet for industrial and domestic applications. References 1) Rakshit Agarwal M. Ramachandran, Stanly Jones Retnam, ARPN Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences, 2015; 10(5): 2217-2220. 2) Malvika Sharma M. Ramachandran, International Journal of Applied Engineering Research. 2015; 10(11):10324-10327. 3) Vineeth Nair, Pratul Khosla, Ramachandran M, Research Journal of Pharmaceutical, Biological March - April 2016


TECHNICAL TEXTILES and Chemical Sciences,7(1):2001-2004 · 2016 4) M Angier Benin, B. Stanly Jones Retnam, M. Ramachandran. International Journal of Applied Engineering Research. 10(11) (2015) pp. 1010910113. 5) P. Pradeep, J. Edwin Raja Dhas, M. Ramachandran. International Journal of Applied Engineering Research. 10(11) (2015) pp. 1039210396. 6) M. Ramachandran, Sahas Bansal, Vishal Fegade, Pramod Raichurkar, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes, 1(4), 2015, pp. 18-21. 7) Alex. S, Stanly Johns Retnam, M. Ramachandran, International Journal of Applied Engineering Research.10 (11) (2015) pp. 10565-10569. 8) Anshu Singh and Sanjay Palsule, Composite Interfaces, 2013; 20(8):553-573. 9) Ning Cai, Qin Dai, Zelong Wang, Xiao gang Luo, Yanan Xue, and Faquan Yu, Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.12, 2544-2552. 10) M.R.Nurul Fazita, Krishnan Jayaraman Debes, Bhattacharyya, Md. Sohrab Hossain, M.K. Mohamad Haaz and Abdul Khali, Biodegradability and Recyclability, Polymers 2015, 7, 14761496. 11) Jinian Yang, Shibin Nie, Jinbo Zhu, J. APPL. POLYM. SCI. 2016, DOI: 10.1002/APP.43340.

12) Saowaroj Chuayjuljit, Chutima Wongwaiwattanakul, Phasawat Chaiwutthinan, Pattarapan Prasassarakich, Physical and Morphological Properties, POLYMER COMPOSITES2016, 13) M.K. Mohamad Haa?z, Azman Hassan ,H.P.S. Abdul Khalil , Imran Khan , I.M. Inuwa , Md. Saiful Islam , Md. Sohrab Hossain , M.I. Syakir , M.R. Nurul Fazita, Polymer Testing 48 (2015) 133-139. 14) Muhammad A.S. Anwer a, Hani E. Naguib, Alain Celzard , Vanessa Fierro, Composites Part B 82 (2015) 92-99. 15) Seong Ok Han, Mehdi Karevan,, Md A. Bhuiyan, Jung Ho Park, Kyriaki Kalaitzidou, J Mater Sci (2012) 47:3535-3543. 16) Balakrishnan Asaithambi, Gowri Shankar Ganesan, Srinivasan Ananda Kumar, POLYMER COMPOSITES-2015. 17) K. Piekarskaa, P. Sowinskia, E. Piorkowskaa, Md.M.-Ul. Haqueb, M. Pracella, Composites: Part A 82 (2016) 34-41. 18) Shaoping Qian, Kuichuan Sheng, Wenchao Yao, Hui Yu, J. APPL. POLYM. SCI. 2016, DOI: 10.1002/APP.43425 19) Jasim Ahmed, Yasir Ali Arfat, Edgar CastroAguirre, Rafael Auras, Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry March 2016. ❑ ❑ ❑

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) (an ISO 9001:2008 certified) Theme:

16th & 17th September, 2016 (Friday & Saturday) Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Domestic Air port, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai - (India)

The Textile Association (India) 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Mr. Vithal Phondke, Office Manager, Tel.: +91-022-2446 1145, Fax : +91-022-2447 4971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com/ arpsinha09@gmail.com, Website: <www.textileassociationindia.org> March - April 2016

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Kasargod Sarees : The Threads of Tradition CR Meena1*, Minakshi Sanjay2, Nidhi Dhaneesh & Nikitha S2 1 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur 2 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur Abstract Over the centuries, handlooms have come to be associated with excellence in India's artistry in textiles. Right from the ancient times, the high quality of Indian handloom products like muslin of Chanderi, silk brocades of Varanasi, the Tie and dye products of Rajasthan and Orissa, the Chintz of Machalipatnam, the Himroos of Hyderabad, the Khes of Punjab, the prints of Farukhabad, the Phanek and Tongam and bottle designs of Assam and Manipur, the Maheshwari sarees of Madhya Pradesh and the Patola sarees of Baroda have been famous all over. The art and craft traditions have been kept alive despite sweeping changes due to continuous efforts of generations of artists and craftsmen who weaved their dreams and visions into exquisite handloom products. Coming to the south, Kerala's handloom products have caught the imagination of the world. Renowned for its impeccable quality, elegant designs and characteristic weave, every district of Kerala has its own signature handloom product. One among them is the Kasargod saree which is very famous in Kerala. The traditional designs transformed into an elegant look which interlace with supreme quality to make this saree stand out in the market. The glorious days of the handwoven Kasargod saree may be over but it has withstood the challenges of time and is still popular among the people. This documentation on Kasargod sarees is a small effort from our part to understand and capture the beauty of such a rich tradition. Keywords Handloom, Sarees, Tradition, Weavers, Design, Home furnishing etc 1. Introduction 'Sari' is derived from the Sanskrit word 'sati' which means a strip of cloth. This sound first evolved into 'sadi' and then into 'sari'.

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There are some indications which suggest that the saree originated in the Indus valley civilization around 2800 to 1800 BC. Dhoti, the Indian man's traditional attire, is believed to be the forerunner of saree. Historians say that until the 14th century, both men and women were wearing dhoti. Dhotis are still being worn in rural India. A saree can be draped in numerous styles. Normal sarees run 6 yards but in some states of southern India, even nine-yard long sarees are worn. A blouse is worn *All the correspondence should be addressed to: Dr. Chet Ram Meena, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kharghar, Navi Mumbai- 410210 Email: chetram.meena@nift.ac.in 376

to cover the upper part of the body along with the saree. In a saree the midriff is left bare. This is because according to Hindus, the navel is considered the source of life and creativity. Many old sculptures show a variety of different sari draping styles worn by men and women. The origin of the blouse and the petticoat is still doubtful. As it was a tradition in India to use only one unstitched cloth to cover the body, it is believed that ancient women did not wear blouses and left the upper part of their bodies uncovered. Some other say that breast bands were worn to cover the upper body. It is still unknown how the blouse and petticoat originated, although it is largely believed that it was only after the arrival of the British that Indian women started wearing blouse and petticoat. Kerala has 14 districts from Thiruvananthapuram to Kasargod and Kerala is known as Gods own Country. The handloom industry is spread all over the state but it is concentrated in certain places. Every district of Kerala has its own signature handloom product. Kerala March - April 2016


OTHERS

Southern Kerala is famous for its superfine products, like sarees, dhothies and 'Set mundu' etc. central Kerala is also engaged with such products .But while going to northern side called Malabar the main production changes to coarser varieties like furnishing items, bed spreads, towels etc. The common products in Kerala are 'Thorthu' (Bathing towel) and Lungies. Almost 2 lakh weavers are earning their livelihood from the handloom industry of which 75% of them are in the co-operative line. The 'Kerala kasavu sarees' are praised by the women all over India for their fineness of count, natural colours, texture and gold borders. Kerala is also known for its unbleached cotton handloom crepe popularly known as 'kora' cloth that has entered the foreign market and occupied a proud place in the garment industry. 1.1 Origin and history of Kasargod sarees This district lies at the northern tip of Kerala and is bound by the Western Ghats in the east and Arabian Sea in the west. KASARGOD is the combination of two Sanskrit words kaasaara and kroda.Many Arab travelers, who came to Kerala between 9th and 14th centuries A.D., visited Kasargod as it was then an important trade centre. Art forms of Kasargod include the famous Yakshgana, Kumbala (buffalo race), Cockfight, Poorakkali, Kolkali, Duff Mutt, Oppana. Kasargod is a land of different languages like Tulu, Kannada, Malayalam, Konkani and Tamil. The origin of the handloom weaving of Kasargod sarees and other fabrics in this district traces back to 18th century AD. The Shaliya weaving community migrated from East Karavali cost of the present Karnataka State. The handloom weaving, like the other clusters of Kerala, was a home based cottage industry in Kasargod district. The co-operative movement initiated in the erstwhile Madras State in the year 1912 as part of the National Movement for the freedom of the country. This movement has organised the handloom weavers into the co-operative fold. As a result, several handloom co-operative societies were formed. One such handloom co- operative societies, The Kasargod Weavers' CoMarch - April 2016

operative Production & Sale Society Ltd. No. L. 381 was established in the year 1938. The major items manufactured in the handloom sector in the Kasaagod cluster range from products made out of fine cotton yarn to coarser yarn. Kasargod sarees (both Kasargod Cotton sarees and Kasargod Art-silk sarees) are the most famous hand-woven item produced here. The traditional Kasargod sarees are woven with coloured cotton yarn (dyed yarn) of finer counts or with coloured art-silk yarn. These sarees are produced either with check design in the body with solid border or plain saree with butta designs and other products like bed sheets, towels and dhothies etc. 2. Weavers Community of Kasargod Sarees The weavers of Kasargod saree belongs to the Shaliya community. Weaving was a family tradition and was practiced in houses. Weaving was a male predominant work. Women helped in dyeing, winding and other processes. At present most of the weavers are above the age of 50 years and have 30 years of experience in this field. Today we can see active participation of women in weaving. In total there are 45 workers in the society of which 25 are male and 20 are female. Most weavers have only primary education. This is because they were engaged in weaving from childhood itself. However, the young generation of weaver's community is highly educated. Workers are paid based on piece rate system i.e.; based on the length of fabric woven. Weekly payment system is practiced. The weavers earn around Rs 1000 per week and also they get bonus two times a year for festivals like Onam and Vishu. Monthly pension of Rs 500 is given to retired weavers.

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handloom industry carries a vital role in the state's economy. Balaramapuram saree, furnishing fabrics from Malabar, Chendamangalam saree, Koothampalli saree are some of the exclusive handloom products from Kerala.

Figure 2.1: A weaver engaged in weaving 377


OTHERS No common diseases are reported among the weavers. Weaving is a good physical exercise. And also it requires the full concentration, hand and feet coordination. Normally, in cotton weaving, respiratory problems arise due to cotton fluff inhalation. In Kasargod sarees, due to the process of loom sizing and wetting of pirns before usage completely eliminates this problem. The society provides health insurance for the weaver's family and they get mediclaim. 3. The features of Kasargod saree The Kasargod saree is characterized by plain or check design in the body and dobby design in the border. The pallu and border colour is always in contrast with the saree body colours. Pale colours are usually used in the body of the saree. The saree is made in 100% cotton as well as in rayon. The cotton sarees are made in various counts like 60s, 80s, 100s etc. The saree body is always in plain weave. Extra warp patterning is done in the border using dobby mechanism. Jacquard mechanism is used to create small butti designs in the pallu and body of saree. The main feature of this saree is its durability. It lasts upto 20 years showing excellent colourfastness. Kasargod saree has also been recognized with a Geographic Indication mark in 2010 making it a unique product.

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Figure3.1:Kasargod sarees

Texttreasure If faith in ourselves had been more and extensively thought and practiced. I am sure a very large portion of the evils and miseries we have would have vanished. - Swami Vivekananda.

Table 3.1: Technical specifications of Kasargod sarees Technical parameter

Details

Length of saree

5.5 metre

Width of saree

48 inch

Border width

2-4 inch

Pallu width

60cm

Count

40s, 60s, 80s, 100s

Reed count

56, 64, 72,80, 96

Material

Cotton, rayon(120 D)

Dye

Vat dye

Weave

Plain for body, dobby for border, jacquard for buttis

Loom

Malabar loom, jacquard attachment - capacity - 240 hooks

Price range

Rs 800 - 1800

3.2. Saree Design Development The specialty of Kasargod sarees is the combination of checks and stripe design in the body of saree with extra warp patterning in the border. A variety of checks and stripe designs are created in the saree like double line checks, narrow to broad stripes etc. Sometimes the body is also made in solid colours. The borders always have extra warp figuring. The motifs used are mainly floral and temple motifs which are inspired from the nature and cultures of Kasargod. Most of the motifs used today are traditional. But new floral motifs are used for buttis which are developed with the help of a design development company in Bangalore. Once the design is obtained it is used to make jacquard punch cards.The punch cards are made manually. Every line of the design becomes one punched card. These are then arranged in sequence and attached to loom. The pallu of the saree is dyed in contrast colour after the warping process. The pallu is usually in solid colours with thin stripes of gold threads along the width. The palu ends are knotted after cutting the saree from the loom manually. The colours used in Kasargod sarees are pale colours and it is complimented with a contrast border. Vat dyes are used for colouring the yarn. The number of colours used in the saree varies from 3 to 6. 3.3. Design limitations The main limitation with design of Kasargod saree is

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OTHERS that most of the weavers are elderly and they are not able to learn and quickly adapt to design changes introduced. Hence, most of design in the saree has remained the same throughout the history of Kasargod saree. Also, the colours of the saree are mainly plain and hence its popularity among the youth who look for bright colours is very low. 4. Production Process of Kasargod Sarees

water for at least 24 hours in a large concrete tank. This process removes all the impurities except the natural coloring matter. Then the yarn is washed in normal water and squeezed with the help of a hydroextractor. 4.3 Bleaching Bleaching is carried out to remove coloring matter from the yarn. This is done in the case of yarns to be dyed in light colours. Bleaching powder is used for bleaching process.To remove the traces of the bleaching powder, the yarn is treated with diluted sulphuric acid and washed with water.

Figure 4.1: Bleached Yarn

4.1 Raw materials The basic raw material of the cluster is cotton yarn, procured in the form of hank. The main supplier of cotton yarn is Varadaraja mills. Art silk (Viscose rayon) yarns are brought from Karnataka.The cotton combed yarns procured are of 80'S, 60'S count.Art Silk yarn of 120 Denier is also used in weft. The raw materials are restocked every 3 months. 4.2 Washing & Scouring Grey yarn immersed in a solution of normal water with soap and drops of coconut oil for about 45 minutes.This process cleans the yarn, increases the dye absorbability of the yarn.The grey yarn is boiled or scoured in a solution of caustic soda and soda ash in March - April 2016

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.2: Production process

4.4 Dyeing Process Vat dye is commonly using for dyeing. Caustic soda and Sodiumhydrosulphate are added at the required quantity to warm water along with the vat dyes and the dye bath is prepared. The yarn is put in the dye bath for about 30 to 45 minutes at 60 degree Celsius. After dyeing the yarn is squeezed through hydro- extractor and then washed in ordinary water.Dyed yarn is then dried in shade for two days for proper oxidation. This provide more strength and original colour to the dyed yarn.

Figure 4.2: Dyeing Tanks 379


OTHERS 4.5 Winding 4.5.1 Bobbin winding Process of transferring yarn from one type of package to another.The dyed yarn for warp in the hank form (from bundles) is converted into bobbins -bobbin winding.

enough to produce 30 to 33 sarees unlike other saree weaving clusters.

4.5.2 Pirn winding The yarn which is used in the weft is wound into a pirn with the help of a small, hand-driven charkha and is called pirn winding. The yarn in the form of pirn is used in the weft while weaving. The wound pirns are dipped in mild starch solutionto improve its strength and dimensional stability.

Figure 4.4: Manual Warping Process

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.3: Pirns immersed in mild starch solution

4.6 Warping Process of making desired length and width of warp sheet by combining many small packages of bobbins/ spools according to the desired patterns.The process of warping used in Kasargod is known as sectional warping. Sectional warping process is carried on a wooden frame from a wooden peg creel. Bobbin creel is used to hold the required number of bobbins in such a way that the yarns from them can be drawn separately without touching each other. The bobbins are put on the creel according to the pattern of the warp and the required number of yarn is then drawn through a comb to the wooden drum. After the completion of warping, markings are made for desired length of saree using charcoal. The yarn in the form of warp is released from the wooden drum in the form of chain or loop. One of the uniqueness of Kasargod saree weaving is the lengthy warp which is 380

4.7 Beaming and Preparation of loom In this process, there is a transfer of warp sheet to a weavers beam to mount on loom followed by looming, which prepares the loom beam for weaving. Preparation of loom is classified into drafting and denting.Drafting is the process of passing the warp yarn through the healds of the loom as per the design.Helps to keep the warp yarn in parallel form over the width of the loom and in locating a broken yarn during the process of weaving. In denting, the warp yarn ends are passed through the reeds and the healds. The warp threads are then joined with the old warp threads with a local method of twisting by hands. 4.8 Sizing Process where starch is coated on the warp yarns to impart strength and enhance abrasion resistance to withstand the stress and strains exerted during the weaving process is called as sizing. Here the method of 'loom sizing' is practiced. Natural materials such as tapioca powder or maida form the important ingredient for sizing, which is boiled and diluted as per the climatic conditions and requirement.On-loom sizing imparts additional stiffness and shining finishes to the product.

March - April 2016


OTHERS 4.10 Quality Checking & Packing The weaving master manually inspects the product. During the process of production like winding & warping, creation of motifs, weaving etc.The weaving master inspects the different predetermined parameters and the quality before permitting final/finishing stage of production.Warp ends in the pallu region are tied. The sarees are folded and pressed manually.Every saree is marked with a Glycemic Index(GI) label and Hanveev tag.

4.8.1 Sizing brush This brush has a wooden base of about 30cm in length and 10cm in width.Bristles are made up of natural fibre obtained from palm tree. These brushes are made in Udupi, Karnataka and involve a complex manufacturing process. The efforts to replace these brushes with plastic brushes have been unsuccessful. 4.9 Weaving The looms used for weaving Kasargod sarees are frame looms known as Malabar looms. The Malabar looms are very strong looms with fly shuttles.These looms can weave heavy furnishing material, bed sheet of greater warp, towels, dress material, striped check material etc and is suitable for sarees with plain solid border, with extra warp and cross border designs. The looms are equipped additionally with lattice dobby and jacquard. The lattice dobby is used to produce extra warp design on the border of the saree. The Jacquard is used to weave designs with extra warp or extra weft or both.The Jacquard lifts the required threads in the warp and the Butta Design is laced in the body of the saree with extra weft by hand. Catch-Cord Technique (locally known as Kotench) is used for creating solid border for the saree.

Figure 4.6: Weaving process of Kasargod Sarees March - April 2016

5. Market and Customers The Society manufactures around 5000 sarees every year. The products are sold mainly through the retail showrooms owned by the society.One showroom is situated within the society compound and the other one in the heart of Kasargod town. The sales are also conducted through Hantex and Hanveev. During festive seasons (Vishu,Onam,Christmas), Government introduces 20% rebate on products.The sales are at its peak during this time.TheKasargod sarees have not yet explored the export market. It is sold mainly within Kerala. The main customers of Kasargod sarees are working women and middle aged women. This saree is used as uniform for teachers in many schools in and around Kasargod. The cotton sarees are most preferred by the customers. What makes Kasargod saree popular among the working class is its simple but elegant look, lightweight and its comfort as a daily wear saree. The durability and easy care of the saree also adds to its popularity. 6. Government Initiatives and Policies The Kerala government has taken various steps to promote the handloom sector. A revitalization scheme was introduced for the maintenance and repair of the society. The pending loans (13 lakh) of the society was written off by the government as a part of another scheme. Government introduces rebate on handloom products to promote its sales during festive season. Production incentives are given on reaching a certain production goal.The weavers are given various incentives which include life insurance, mediclaim, pension, provident fund etc. 6.1 Scheduled Caste Training Programme The Kerala government has introduced a SC training programme to give employment opportunities to the underprivileged backward classes.The duration of this training programme is 6 months. The strength of the 381

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Figure 4.5: Sizing of warp yarns


OTHERS training programme is 40.An experienced trainer is appointed by the government. The trainees are given Rs.100 as stipend per day. The government had funded Rs.1crore for this project which included the building, looms, furniture, lodging and the stipend.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

7. SWOT Analysis Strength ◆ 100% Handloom Product. ◆ The unique manufacturing process which includes: - Loom sizing, - Warping for 33 sarees at a time, - The usage of Malabar looms etc. ◆ Traditional designs and motifs ◆ Saree that lasts for 15 to 20 years without any special care. ◆ Good color fastness ◆ GI product ◆ Eco friendly manufacturing process Weakness ◆ Slow production due to manual labour ◆ Failure to update new designs ◆ Cannot meet the growing demands Opportunities ◆ Increase in demand for handloom products. ◆ Help and support from Government to promote handloom sector ◆ SC training cluster to install new weavers Threats ◆ Lack of workers ◆ Non availability of yarn in hank form. " Difficulty in accessing accessories for handloom. ◆ Extinction in making sizing brush and failure to replace them. 8. Suggestions ◆ Undertake training programme every year and make it open for all interested candidates. ◆ Design intervention to provide variety products which would be acceptable by all age groups and classes. ◆ Product diversification to include products like shawls, dress materials, shirting etc. which have high demand among the new generation. ◆ Introduce fixed wages for weavers. ◆ Government should take initiative to provide raw materials like yarn at reasonable price. ◆ Advertising should be done by means of social networking and online webpage should be created where people can easily access information 382

◆ ◆

about the product and place orders. There should be scope for customization of products. Value addition of products by using techniques like embroidery, printing etc.

9. Conclusion There is a huge demand for handloom products in the market today. The biggest challenge in today's competitive scenario is fulfilling the growing customer demands by overcoming the crisis of labor and raw material availability. The world is becoming more eco-friendly and there is a growing obsession with natural and handmade products. The eco-friendly factor of Kasargod sarees is the right marketing tool to be used for promotion. With the support and initiative of Government this 300 year old woven tradition will surely withstand the challenges of time. References 1. Government of India, Geographical Indications Journal, No. 32, March 30, 2010, pp 45-54. 2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasargod_district accessed on 15 July 2015. 3. Brochure of kasargod sarees 2015. 4. http://www.tantuvi.com/history.htm, accessed on 14.07.2015 5. http://nishamadhulika.com/en/568-history-ofsaree.html, accessed on 20.07.2015. 6. http://www.hindu.com/2008/07/01/stories/ 2008070150010200.htm, accessed on 25.07.2015 7. http://kasargod.nic.in/index_main.htm, accessed on 26.07.2015 8. https://www.keralatourism.org/districts/kasargod/, accessed on 26.08.2015. 9. http://keralahandloom.blogspot.in/2011/07/keralahandloom-industry.html, accessed on 26.07.2015. 10. http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/bengaluru/ Kasargod-Saree-Reviving-a tradition/article show/ 28055734.cms - accessed on 16 July 2015. 11. http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/tp-kerala/the-enduring-appeal-of-kasargodsari/article1287293.ece - accessed on 20 July 2015. 12. Tana Bana - A Documentary Film on KASARGOD SAREES: https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Mu8Bejepc. ❑ ❑ ❑ March - April 2016


TEXPERIENCE

Decorative Textiles Use of Elephant grass by Artisans Woven baskets, mats and hats constitute a small but important part of handicraft textiles. Basketry is one of the oldest and universally practiced art forms to produce useful and artistically beautiful objects. Artisans have preserved their traditional skills over many generations to produce elegant yet strong woven baskets for both functional and decorative use. Baskets are part of the heritage of almost all ancient civilisations and their construction and variety make them desirable decorative home textiles.

Dr. Ashok Athalye

He has a vast knowledge in the field of dyes and chemicals. He did his Ph.D. (Tech.) Textile Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.) and B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT (formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. He also did Diploma (DIM), Advanced Diploma (ADM) and specialization in Marketing Management (DMM) from I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He is also a Fellow of Society of Dyers and Colorists, SDC, UK. He has many research and review publications to his credit.

The Indian home textile market of Rs.17,000 cr in 2010 is expected to grow at CAGR 9 % and reach Rs.40,000 cr by 2020. The unorganised sector dominates this market. Home textiles have now transformed into life style items from being just a utilitarian products and their demand is increasing day by day. The handicraft sector plays a significant role in the home textile products and the country's economy. It provides employment to a vast segment of craftsman in rural and semi urban areas and generates substantial foreign exchange, while preserving its cultural heritage. Traditionally artisans have used natural and locally available material for making such article; usually the fibres are extracted from stems or leaves of plant and are dyed with natural coloring components which are then hand woven to make artistic but useful objects. Elephant Grass is one of such abundantly available natural material which derives its name from being a favorite food and hiding place for elephants. It is also known as Napier grass and scientifically termed as Pennisetum purpureum, a species of tropical African grasslands which is also found in many parts of Australia, America and Asia. It has low water and nutrient requirements and therefore can make use of otherwise uncultivated lands. It grows up to 10 feet tall bamboo-like clumps and has yellowish green to purple color. This grass has high biomass production of about 40 tons/ha/year and can be harvested 4 to 6 times a year. The specific advantages of this grass are ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Environmentally friendly renewable source Easy to grow having long life span Low maintenance cost Does not need pesticides or fertilisers

Apart from being used for traditional animal feed, this grass finds many uses like pest management, improving soil fertility, protecting arid land from soil erosion, paper pulp production, making handicraft articles and for producing bio-fuel. Varieties of Elephant grass are available in nature and their chemical composition varies from region to region and also depends on the time of harvesting. Generally, the protein and cellulosic fibre content decreases while the dry matter content increases as the grass grows old. Generally, Elephant grass harvesting within 60

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Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently a GM (Technical services) in Atul Ltd. He is heading the technical team in the area of textile dyes and chemicals for both domestic and international market. He has an experience of working in many renowned companies like ICI (India), ltd., Croda Chemicals, Jaysynth Dyechem Ltd., Serene Dyestuff Ltd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. And Indokem Ltd. He has an experience of around 20 years in Technical services of dyestuffs and chemicals.


TEXPERIENCE to 90 days yields material having highest content of crude protein, cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin and is best suited for basket making. Composition

%

Protein

12.4

Cellulose

12.3

Hemicellulose

38.2

Lignin

10.7

Moisture Dry Matter, Ash

8.8 17.6

In India, hybrid elephant grass varieties are also available which are more leafy, fine textured, palatable, fast growing and drought resistant than normal Elephant grass. Hybrid grass contains about 10.2% crude protein and 30.5% crude fibre which make it high-quality forage for cattle. Basket Making from Elephant grass is well known and practiced commonly in Bolgatanga village located in northern Ghana where they are called Bolga baskets and similar process is practiced in other countries as well. This process requires great practice and skill, as well as serious training before the artisans become weaving expert. The strands of grass are tied in bunches and then dyed using different colors, each part of the basket - the sides, base and handle, needs special straw which is selected after appropriate dyeing. The uniqueness of these baskets is that they can be "reshaped" by wetting them with water and then "massaging" them back to original shape with open hand. Their robust, bamboo like properties give them desired durability and long lasting sustainability. These baskets are ideal for shopping, storage and decoration. Elephant grass is also used for making table mats, sleeping mats, decorative wall hangings, etc. and can also be blended with cotton or other suitable material. The Elephant grass is woven by following process :

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Each stalk of straw is split vertically in half Two split lengths are rolled and twisted tightly to form a strong strand Strands are prewetting with suitable wetting agent Dyeing with a suitable natural or synthetic dye in a pot Drying in open air Weaving as per requirement of basket design and size Trimming off remaining | extruding straw from the basket

Coloration of Elephant grass For achieving uniform and level dyeing effect, it is generally recommended to first boil the grass strands in a powerful wetting agent like RUCOGEN WBL (dosage -1 g/l) for 30 min to make then thoroughly wet. This helps improve surface absorbency as well as core penetration during subsequent dyeing. 384

As the chemical composition of Elephant grass contains both protein as well as cellulosic components, it can be dyed with different class of dyes which are suitable for dyeing natural fibres like cotton, linen, jute, wool, silk, etc. Dyestuffs belonging to chemical class of Direct, Reactive, Acid, etc. can be used for dyeing of Elephant grass. Considering factors like brightness of shade, surface levelness, dye diffusion inside fibre core, ease of application, simplicity of process and adequate fastness properties (wet and light fastness as the dye should not bleed or fade during handling and use of baskets, mats and hats), Acid and Metal complex dyes are found to score over other class of dyes. The simple dyeing process involves dipping the Elephant grass strands in required quantity of dyestuffs as per desired shade along with a suitable levelling and an acidic pH controlling agent and boiled for 30 to 60 min depending on desired depth of shade. After completion of dyeing the strands are given a cold wash followed by dyefixing treatment (optional) under acidic pH conditions for 30 min at room temperature and finally air dried. Summary India has rich heritage of art and craft, each and every part of this country has its own unique handicraft styles. The handicraft sector in Basketry is evolving and creating products according to today's consumer demands. Product diversification and making it contemporary will provide greater satisfaction to the craftsmen. Basket making craft is a traditional heritage providing employment and earning capability to a large number of craftsman from rural area. Overall, the employment in Indian handicraft segment is expected to reach 80 lakhs by the end of 2017 which at present is estimated at 67 lakh. The Handicraft sector has, however, suffered due to its being unorganized, with the additional constraints of lack of education, low capital, and poor exposure to new technologies, absence of market intelligence, and a poor institutional framework. In spite of these constraints, sector has witnessed a significant growth of 3 % annually. Therefore, dyes and chemical manufacturers like ATUL and RACL have initiated steps to provide dyes application training to make Indian handicraft sector shine at global level. This art is a major source of income for many artisans. But this sector is still unorganised and decentralised. Collaboration with fashion | designing institutes will also support artisans in getting worldly exposure and the traditional art can be retained and saved. Moreover, the new generation of artisans can get different and new innovative ideas which can uplift their economic standard. Ashok Athalye Technical Service, Atul Ltd (Colors Division), Valsad, Gujarat, India

March - April 2016


TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffolds in future. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. In the previous chapter, an attempt was made to evolve with a simple understanding about the use of textile technology involved in the bone tissue engineering. The requirements of bone tissue engineering, the various materials used for engineering of the hard tissue and the recent advancements done for the replacement of the bone tissue are covered in the chapter. In the present chapter, the readers are presented with the aspects of medical scaffolding in dentistry. The crucial requirements for manufacturing of these scaffolds, the biomaterials in use and the fabrication techniques are discussed briefly in this chapter. The research carried out in this field of tissue engineering and the materials available commercially are also covered.

Chapter 11 : Textile scaffolds in Dentistry Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla & Dr. R V Adivarekar

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glands have been developed using tissue engineering approaches effectively. Different materials are also in place and used as the implants in the dental cavity. However there are various disadvantages related to their use. Hence, tissue engineering approaches have been introduced as an innovative alternative to conventional biomaterials to replace the lost or damaged human oral tissues. The use of varied tissue engineering approaches like stem cells, growth factors, and the tissue engineered scaffolds (as carriers to facilitate delivery of stem cells and/or growth factors at a local receptor site) are been employed for the recovery of the lost or damaged tissues in the dental cavity due to trauma, caries or periodontal diseases. 2. Requirements of scaffolds Scaffolds are temporary frameworks used to provide a three dimensional micro-environment where cells can proliferate, differentiate and generate the desired tissue. As there are very different aspects involved in the dental cavity with respect to the other body parts the various factors have to be considered while selecting biomaterials for dental tissue scaffolds. The issues like exposure to body fluids present in the oral cavity can result in the degradation or corrosion of material inside the oral cavity, or further to the issue, oral environment may react with material to release cytotoxic or harmful components. The design of the ideal dental scaffold for each tissue to be formed is a challenging task. An ideal scaffold must allow cell attachment and migration, permit the localized and sustained delivery of growth 385

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1. Introduction As seen in the previous chapter the bone tissue engineering is wide spread field and involves the use of various fields for a successful engineering of bone tissues. Teeth and oral tissues have very important role for performing certain functions in humans. Dental caries and peritonitis are the common diseases that cause the loss of dental tissues. The different oral tissues like tissues in the oral cavity, bone, cartilage, skin and oral mucosa, dentin and dental pulp, and salivary glands have been tried to be engineered using the tissue scaffolds. The masticatory stresses that result in the loss of the wear and tear of the oral cavity or the changes in the functioning are due to dynamic environments. To deal with the various issues in the oral tissue engineering, the researcher have attempted different strategies. Tissue engineering application is based on three main components, cell source (mainly stem cells that differentiate into different cell lines), a scaffold (to support and act as carrier for cells) and bioactive molecules or signals (to induce differentiation and tissue formation). The various biomaterials are also explored in the manufacturing of dental tissue scaffolds. Lately, various attempts have been made at the research level to manufacture scaffold materials using various biopolymers like natural polymers (collagen, polysaccharides, or fibrin), natural silk, synthetic polymers [poly (lactic acid) or poly (glycolic acid)], and ceramics [hydroxyapatite (HA) and tri-calcium phosphate]. A range of dental applications such as pulp dentin complex regeneration, guided tissue regeneration (GTR), tooth and salivary


TEXNOTE factors, and enable the influx of oxygen to maintain the high metabolic demands of cells engaged in tissue regeneration. The dental scaffolding materials involve mainly the use of ceramic materials, also natural and synthetic polymers are used for manufacture of scaffolds. As the scaffolds are target specific, the choice of scaffold material depends on the desired outcome. Thus the physical properties of the scaffold like rheological behavior, mechanical properties, surface roughness and porosity as well as chemical characteristics and products of degradation that will be formed must be considered while selection as dental scaffolds. The scaffold's physical properties have to attend the needs of the target environment. It must present proper mechanical resistance to support in vivo stresses, and it should be mechanically compatible with the surrounding tissues. The scaffold's mechanical properties have a direct impact in tissue formation by affecting cell differentiation into the desired phenotype through mechano-transduction. Therefore, linear elastic scaffolds are preferred when one attempt to generate bone, and nonlinear elastic or visco-elastic models are more suitable for soft tissues of the dental cavity.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Scaffold porosity is also critical to tissue generation. The quantity and extension of pores change the specific scaffold surface modifying its permeability and mechanical properties, having strong impact in cell seeding, nutrient diffusion and tissue in-growth. Notably, higher number and extension of pores allows for enhanced cell growth but reduces scaffold strength. A study suggested pore size ranging from 50 to 400 nm for the optimum bone growth into porous-surfaced metallic implants. However, it has been described up to 80% of bone in-growth after 2 months from implanting scaffolds in mice, regardless the pore sizes, which ranged from 300 to 1200 nm. It has been proposed that pore interconnectivity is even more important to sustain bone growth than the pore size itself. The scaffold degradation is fundamental to achieve success in tissue engineering therapies. The scaffold should ideally reabsorb once it has served its purpose of providing a template for tissue regeneration. Importantly, the degradation must occur at a rate compatible with the new tissue formation. For example, the implantation of fast degrading scaffolds decreases the in vitro viability of primary smooth muscle cells resulting in less cell population and lower angiogenesis levels. Furthermore, the degradation products should not be toxic and must be easily cleared or resorbed to mini386

mize the risk of inflammatory response. It must be emphasized that during the scaffold degradation, the local pH should not be significantly lower than the physiological pH, otherwise cell death and protein degradation may occur. 3. Biomaterials in dental tissue engineering Biomaterials play a crucial role in the field of tissue engineering. They are utilized for fabricating frameworks known as scaffolds, matrices or constructs which are interconnected porous structures that establish a cellular microenvironment required for optimal tissue regeneration. Several natural and synthetic biomaterials have been utilized for fabrication of tissue engineering scaffolds. Ceramics have noteworthy advantages of aesthetics, biocompatibility, and mimicry of natural enamel properties. However, most are custom fabricated into dental restorations and contain porosity and/or stress risers that lead to cracks. A wide range of all-ceramic materials have been employed (feldspathic porcelains, leucite-reinforced porcelains, alumina-reinforced porcelains, high-density alumina ceramics, high-density zirconia ceramics, glass-infiltrated ceramics, glass ceramics), but not much elegance has been applied to local control of domain properties within ceramic. Layered ceramics and textured ceramics are used to tackle with the short coming of Surface film modifications or surface treatments like sandblasting may be used to eliminate fabrication defects that otherwise might generate cracks. Ceramics are difficult to form into complicated geometries using high-temperature processes in a costeffective manner in small dental laboratories. Novel ceramic textures and micro-structural control can be produced by rapid prototyping, stereolithography, and other printing techniques. Cements also have a crucial role to play in the oral cavity. Though they do not represent much volume of dental material, they are involved in a crucial step of luting and bonding restorations. There has been an evolution from the use of the traditional cement (zinc phosphate) towards the use of resin-based cements (resin-modified glass ionomers). Since 2002, there has been a new class called "universal cements" which are a hybrid of the properties of resin-modified glass ionomers and composites that purport to replace the two types with one. The commercial names of the universal cements are Unicem, 3M ESPE, St. Paul, MN; MaxCem, Kerr, Orange, CA. They are designed to be self-etching. March - April 2016


TEXNOTE

Biomaterials for constructing scaffolds can be natural / synthetic and rigid / non rigid. Natural biomaterials offer good cellular compatibility i.e. ability to support cell survival and function thereby enhancing the cells' performance, and biocompatibility. Their disadvantages include source variability, immunogenicity, if not pure, limited range of mechanical properties and lack of control over pore size. Some natural biomaterials used in tooth regeneration include (a) proteins like collagen, fibrin and silk (b) polysaccharides like chitosan, hyaluronic acid, alginate and agarose. Unlike natural biomaterials, synthetic biomaterials can be manufactured in unlimited supply under controlled conditions, are cheaper and can be tailored to obtain desired shape, cell differentiation properties and mechanical and chemical properties especially the strength, pore characteristics and degradation rate suited for intended applications. However, synthetic biomaterials lack cell adhesion sites and require chemical modifications to improve cell adhesion. Examples of synthetic biomaterials are organic polymers like poly lactic acid (PLA), poly glycolic acid (PGA), poly lactide-co- glycolic acid (PLGA) and polycaprolactone (PCL). Other synthetic materials include inorganic calcium phosphate materials like hydroxyapatite (HA) or beta tricalcium phosphate (? TCP), and compositions of silicate and phosphate glasses. PLA, PGA, PLGA and PCL are few polymers that are commonly used for forming porous scaffolds. Rigid biomaterials provide structural substitutes where as soft biomaterials are chosen to provide cell encapsulation. Since a tooth is routinely subjected to mechanical loads, it is crucial that a matrix selected for regenerating hard tissues has adequate strength properties to support the applied loads. Additionally, the regenerated matrix should not undergo any volumetric change lest it induces residual stresses in the tissue predisposing it to fracture. For regenerating pulp within a natural tooth, March - April 2016

the matrix selected should preferably be soft and injectable to ease delivery into the complex pulp space, allow cell attachment to the matrix and the surrounding pulp cavity walls, support vascularity and exhibit minimal contraction. A single matrix may not be an ideal scaffold material. Hybrid scaffolds may be best suited keeping in view the variations in tooth composition. 4. Fabrication of dental scaffolds a. Engineering techniques used for dental scaffolds Dental tissue regeneration aims at (a) regenerating an entire tooth which is structurally and functionally sound, (b) regenerating individual components of a tooth like enamel, dentin, pulp, cementum, periodontal ligament and alveolar bone. Bio engineered teeth, similar to natural teeth, are expected to occlude precisely in the dentition, establish proper contacts with adjacent teeth, provide proprioception, transmit masticatory loads and restore aesthetics. To generate such teeth with predetermined morphology, it is highly important to precisely and orderly orient epithelial mesenchymal cell layers onto the scaffold as well as guide their interaction with the extracellular matrix. This differential placement of cells and their interaction with the matrix can possibly be achieved by employing 3-D imprinting scaffold fabrication, cell seeding techniques and recent advances in nanotechnology. The traditional top down strategy in tissue engineering aims at seeding cells in a preformed 3D scaffold of polymers, natural porous materials or decellularized native extracellular matrix. In the bottom up strategy of tissue engineering, various methods like cell printing, microwells, cell sheets and self assembled hydrogels can be used to aggregate cells to form distinct subunits that could then be used as building blocks to engineer whole organs. Currently, two approaches are considered for tooth regeneration: (a) Scaffold based approach which involves using scaffolds on which cells can be planted either in vitro or by cell homing. Cell homing compared to cell delivery based tooth regeneration involves in situ induction of endogenous stem cells from adjacent host sites to mobilize and inhabit the native host matrix or implanted scaffold matrix. This method excludes the need for isolation and laboratory manipulation of cells thereby improving clinical success and reducing cost. 387

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Amongst other biomaterials, polymers are the most extensively experimented and employed materials. They can be tailored to provide good interconnected porosity, large surface area, adequate mechanical strengths, varying surface characterization and different geometries required for tissue regeneration. A single type of material may however not meet all the requirements. Selection of two or more biomaterials, optimization of their physical, chemical and mechanical properties and advanced fabrication techniques are required to obtain scaffold designs intended for their final application.


TEXNOTE (b) Scaffold free approach aims at directly inducing developmental processes of embryonic tooth formation guided by appropriate signals to produce tooth structures that mimic natural teeth in morphology and size. Former approach is dependent on use of biomaterials for the fabrication of scaffolds. Determining the physical and mechanical properties of biomaterials and assessing their effect on cell survival and extracellular matrix deposition is imperative for any scaffold based tissue regeneration. b. Cell growth methods for regeneration The cell growth on the scaffolds can be categorized into three different types. The scaffolds can be either cell-seeded, cell-incubated or cell injected. All three methods are inter-related approaches of tissue engineering. These approaches depend on the use of one or more key elements e.g., cells, growth factors and matrix to guide tissue regeneration. For cell injection strategy, stem cells are the most successful candidate. Since the tissue formation resulted from cellular action, injection of inherently intelligent cells, stem cells in particular, into the defect have been suggested to regenerate tissues. The effectiveness of this therapy however is limited by low engraftment and inadequate localisation of injected cells particularly in areas showing continuous movement. Immunological rejection and the ability of the injected cells to maintain their phenotype are other challenges. Due to the limitations with cell injection therapy, there has been a clear and distinct shift to recruiting the circulating body cells to regenerate the tissues. This is known as cellinduction therapy.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Combining all the previous attempts together led to the emergence of another strategy to engineer tissues. This strategy depends on the isolation of appropriate cell population from a biopsy taken from the patient or a donor. And the most likely candidate for such therapies remains the Mesenchymal Stem Cell (MSC). 5. Current research scenario Tissue engineering approaches have been developed on a research level for a range of dental applications such as pulp dentin complex regeneration, guided tissue regeneration (GTR), tooth, and salivary glands with an effective outcome. There are diverse ranges of approaches that are employed for the manufacture of tissue scaffolds for dental tissues. Nanotechnology is the crucial area in which 388

the various research aspects have been explored. Nanofibers is an important division of biomaterials due to a wide range of biomedical applications. The fabrication of nanofibers has attracted a lot of researchers due to unique properties required for biomedical applications for example availability of greater surface area for cellular interaction, protein absorption and binding sites to cell receptors. Nanofibers can facilitate packing of maximum volume fraction by controlling fibers alignment and orientation hence improving the material strength. The material properties such as surface morphology, porosity and geometry can be tailored or functionalized for certain applications, for example, bioactive agents for biomedical applications. Introduction of nano sized particles has tremendously revolutionized tissue engineering in the dental field. At significantly smaller sizes, these particles greatly increase the surface area per unit volume and the quatum effects compared to large sized particles, thereby improving the performance behavior of materials. Collective advancements in nanotechnology have enabled the fabrication of innovative scaffolds like composite nanofibrous scaffolds that simulate the matrix environment in which cells can be accommodated to proliferate and differentiate towards desired lineages. Nano meter sized fibers can be processed to form highly porous scaffolds that will allow easy cell migration and nutrient diffusion. Not only do they provide a large surface area for cell attachment but also because of increased porosity permit the delivery of drugs and growth factors, thereby allowing interaction between cells and extracellular matrix as seen during normal tissue development. Nano fibrous scaffolds that will promote functional tissue regeneration can be created by simple coating methods, blending of polymeric- bioactive molecules or by surface modification methods. Hydrophilization, electro-spinning and more recently electro-spin-electrospraying are few methods that enable the synthesis of polymeric and composite nano scaffolds suited for specific biomedical applications. Creating a controlled micro-texture on implant surfaces via additive surface modification techniques with bioactive nano-hydroxyapatite have shown to positively influence guided tissue regeneration. Nano-structured HA compared to bulk HA provides close contact with surrounding tissues and quick resorption characteristics. It has also shown to increase the proliferation rate of PDL cells possibly by activating the epidermal growth March - April 2016


factor and its downstream targets. Modifying the polymer surface with cell adhesive ligands like arginineglycine-aspartic acid (RGD) peptide derived from fibronectin improves cell adhesion and interaction. The effect of artificial bioactive nano structures- branched peptide amphiphile molecules containing RGD (BRGDPA) on ameloblasts like cells and enamel organ epithelial cells of mouse embryonic incisors was studied. In both cell and organ culture models, enhanced cell attachment and proliferation with greater enamel specific protein expression levels were seen. Introducing cell cleavable groups in polymeric hydrogels also improved cell penetration. Large complex 3D scaffolds laden with microvascular networks and growth factor concentration gradients have recently been designed using microfluidics to promote culturing of multiple cell types and guide cell growth in a controlled space. Encapsulated cells within 200 ?m of the micro-fluidic channels have shown the best survival, suggesting that microchannels provide conduits for diffusion of nutrients and metabolites to seeded cells thereby enhancing neo-vascularization and/or cell metabolism which is especially important when regenerating dental pulp. Electro-spinning The major application of electrospun materials is primarily for tissue engineering and regeneration of oral and dental tissues. The electro-spinning is an excellent technique for fabricating tissue engineering scaffolds. A variety of materials including natural polymers (silk, collagen, chitosan), synthetic polymers (polyvinyl alcohol, polydioxanone) and nano-composites (hydroxyapatite blends) have been electrospun for tissue engineering of oral and dental tissues. In addition, these materials have been used for biomaterials applications such as modifications of implant surfaces, restorative nano-composites and drug delivery. In addition, these materials have been used for biomaterials applications such as modifications of implant surfaces, restorative nano-composites and drug delivery. The table below gives a brief summary of the different biomaterials used for the manufacture of the electrospun fibres that are used for the respective application in the field of dentistry.

Texttreasure Hard work beats talent, when talent doesn't work hard. - Tim Notke March - April 2016

Application in Dentistry

Biomaterial used

Tooth regeneration

Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), Polydiaxonone (PDS)

Guided tissue

Collagen, Poly

regeneration

(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA), Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA), Poly carpolactone (PCL) Polyethylene oxide (PEO), Silk

Caries prevention

Chitosan

Reinforcement of resin composites

Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), Polyacrylnitrile, Polystyrene, Nylon

Implant modification

PLGA, Collagen

Cartilage regeneration

PCL Polyethylene oxide (PEO), Chitosan

Drug delivery

Poly (ethylene-co-vinylacetate), Poly (lactic acid) (PLLA), Poly (lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA)

Wound and mucosal repair

Poly-L-(lactic acid), Poly (lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA), chitin, chitosan, silk fibroin, collagen

About the Authors Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and Tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 125 papers in journals of national and International repute. 389

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXNOTE


UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India)

lighted on ITMA Exhibition held at Italy.

M. P. Unit

Seminar on SHAPE INDIA - SHAPE TEXTILE ENERGY SAVED - MONEY EARNED The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unit organized a seminar jointly with International Copper Association & Spinners Club 'Shape India - Shape Textile on Energy Saved - Money Earned' on 05-12-2015 at Hotel Shiv Palace at Mandideep, Bhopal.

During the seminar there was session of "Question & Answer" & the issue of power saving is discussed. Different Electrician explain how to save energy. Mr. N.S. Nirban made the seminar more interesting with his singing old songs.There were more than 100 participants attend seminar.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The program was started with "DEEP PRAJALAN" byChief Guest Shri S. Pal (Director of Vardhman) along with Guest of honor Shri S.K. Bhatt (Head of Nahar Spinning Mills Mandideep), Shri M.S. Saini (Head of Oswal Denim, Pilllukhedi), Shri N.S. Nirban (Director of Texpert) and Shri Kailash Agrawal (President MPACPT). The Program was conducted by Mr. Ankit Veda (Vice President Spinners Club). Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAI M.P. Unit welcomed all and delivered his welcome speech. He highlighted the activities of the Association and he said that Mr. S. K. Bhatt is a young having dynamic personality who has taken Nahar Spinning Mills on a New Height. TAI M.P. Unit has given him the responsibilities of TAI Bhopal chapter. He also mentioned for Mr. N.S. Nirban that "Khandar batate hai imarat kitni majboot thi". Mr. S.Pal, Chief Guest of function was honored with Life Time Achievement Award, who has highly contributed in changing the scenario of textile industry in the region. Mr. K.N. Hemanth Kumar, made his Technical presentation. Also Mr. H. M. Tripathi has given success mantra "Power Saved Money Earned". Mr. Tripathialso high390

Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary honored Mr. K.N. Hemanth Kumar, Mr. S. K. Bhatt with the mementos. Shri H.M.Tripathi (Head of spinning Vardhman Febric), summarized theTechnical session. Following dignities were present in this seminar: Mr. Meghraj Chouhan, Mr. Deepak Chopra & Team (Hind Syntex Ltd.), Mr. L. R. Nishad, Mr. S.K. Chopra & Team (Anant Spinning), Mr. Sapan Shah & Team (DFOS Marketing), Mr. Kaushal Garg, (Vardhman, Bhopal), Mr. Jimmy Gupta & Team (Grundfos Pumps), Mr. N. Malviya, Mr. Rajkumar Haran, Mr. Tarun Lakshkar, Mr. Arun Verma & Team (Bhaskar Denim), Mr. Rajesh Ku. Singh & Team, Mr. B.B. Bhatia, Mr. G.M. Mishra, Mr. M.G. Choudhary & Team (Nahar Spinning Mills), Mr. M.G. Choudhary & Team (Oswal Denim), Mr. Yashpal Kanogiya (Shanti Gears), Mr. V.K. Soni, Sunil Yadav& Team (NBT Textile), Mr. Kailash Agrawal (MPACPT), Mr. Sunil Mittal & Team (Moenus Textile Pvt. Ltd.) and others. The seminar ended with National Anthem and followed by Dinner. Chief Sponsor: International Copper Association India Co- Sponsor: TAI M.P. & Spinner Club March - April 2016


UNIT ACTIVITY

West Bengal Unit

Celebrated its 65th Annual Conference

Articles were producedin the Seminar in two session. First session was chaired by Prof. (Dr.) K.K. Goswami and 2nd session was chaired by Prof. Dr. Sadhan Chandra Roy, Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta. A questions & answers session and valedictory session were before a Lucky Dip draw contest among the delegates present at the session.

Director NIFT Kolkata Mrs. Binwant Kaur giving the keynote address

Dignitaries on stage, Sri A.K.Roy, Dr. K.K.Goswami, Sri Sanjay Jhunjhunwala, Prof. Binwant Kaur, Sri Jewraj Sethia, Dr. S.K.Bhattacharya, Sri A.K.Mukherjee

Sri JewrajSethia President West Bengal Unit TAI delivering his speech

Dr. K. K. Goswami, Director, Indian Institute of Carpet Technology Bhadohi (U.P.) was present as Guest of honour. Our Advisor of West Bengal Unit TAI- Dr. S. K. Bhattacharya Ex-director NIRJAFT was present in the function as special Dignitary.

Mr. Jhunjhunwala MD, Turtle Ltd. delivering his speech

Sri Ashoke Kumar Mukherjee, Hon. Secretary TAIWest Bengal Unit proposed the vote of Thanks. Total participant were 120 from various educational Institute and Industries from the state. Lunch was arranged after the First Session and High Tea was arranged by Colourtex.

A souvenir was published in this special occasion and a Technical Seminar was arranged. Eight Technical March - April 2016

391

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Associations (India), West Bengal Unit Celebrated its 65th Annual Conference at NIFT Auditorium in Kolkata on 20th February 2016 with the Theme on "Trends in Textiles and Garments". Unit President Sri Jiwraj Sethia, gave his welcome address and Sri A. K. Roy, Chairman TAI, W.B. narrated about conference. Keynote address was given by Smt. Binwant Kaur, Director NIFT (Kolkata). Programme was inaugurated by Sri Sanjoy Jhunjhunwala, Managing Director, Turtle Ltd. as Chief Guest.


NEWS

All Motions adopted at Rieter's 2016 Annual General Meeting Dividend of 4.50 CHF per share Shareholders adopted all motions proposed by the Board of Directors at the 125th Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. and elected Roger Baillod and Bernhard Jucker to the Board of Directors. 523 shareholders, representing 64 % of the share capital, today attended the Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. In view of the strong annual results for 2015 and the company's good financial health, a dividend of 4.50 CHF per share was agreed. The shareholders approved the proposed maximum total amount of compensation for members of the Board of Directors and members of the Group Executive Committee for the financial year 2017. Erwin Stoller, Chairman of the Board of Directors, and Michael Pieper, This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Peter Spuhler, directors, were each confirmed for a further one-year term of office. Furthermore, This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Erwin Stoller, the members of the Remuneration Committee who were standing for election, were each re-elected for a one-year term of office. Dr. Jakob Baer and Dr. Dieter Spälti did not stand for re-election at the Annual General Meeting in 2016 and confirmed they were stepping down permanently. Erwin Stoller, Chairman of the Board of Directors, thanked the two long-serving members of the Board of Directors for their high level of commitment and acknowl-

edged their invaluable expertise. In place of the departing members, Roger Baillod and Bernhard Jucker were elected to the Board of Directors at the Annual General Meeting. Shareholders also adopted all other motions proposed by the Board of Directors, namely approval of the annual report, the annual accounts and the consolidated financial statements for 2015, and formal approval of the actions of the members of the Board of Directors and those of the Group Executive Committee in the 2015 financial year. Moreover, a two-year extension was approved for the authorized capital. For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Investor Relations JorisGrĂśflin Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.com Rieter Management Ltd. Media Relations Cornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E. ties-up with Savio Macchine Tessili group from Italy A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited of India and Savio Macchine Tessili group from Italy have entered into a strategic partnership at parity position for sales & marketing of Automatic Winders, Two-For-One Twisters (TFO), Continuous Yarn Shrinking Machines, OE Rotor Spinning Machines in India from 1st April 2016. The Savio group for more than 100 years after its modest beginning in 1911 has played major role in development of textile industry worldwide and with its manufacturing facilities in Italy, India and China that offers state of the art machines. 392

Savio India Ltd., the advanced TFO manufacturing set up of Savio group in India, will continue to provide and ensure state of the art Customer Support and Spare Parts Services. The A.T.E. group, with its strong marketing network through 11 offices across India and a knowledgeable sales and marketing force, complements the competence of the Savio group as Savio's sales and marketing partner in India. A.T.E. is in the unique position of being the only company with a presence across the March - April 2016


NEWS entire textile value chain for textile machinery & accessories, utilities and complete after sales service solutions (for key segments). A.T.E. thus is the only company with the capability of offering to Indian customers a 'one window solution' from spinning to garment making. The Savio group has taken a quantum leap and cemented it's technological trend setter position with its new automatic winder series EcoPulsarS, launched during the recently held ITMA at Milan. Through the new winder EcoPulsarS, Savio has introduced an entirely new concept, which has a capability of giving users up to 30% energy savings and up to 10%, enhanced productivity. Savio's well proven and the bestselling automatic winder model Polar is still the #1 winder in many world markets. Savio is also a front runner with a wide range of TwoFor-One twisters diversified for different market requirements. The Savio twisting technology combined with an ingenious machine design offers low invest-

ment costs together with minimum power consumption, low maintenance times and the lowest life-cycle costs. With two models : the new generation machine Sirius with an Electronic Drive System (EDS) and the traditional twisting machine Cosmos, Savio has been able to address the different needs of different segments of the markets, offering long term benefits to its customers through cost effectiveness, energy saving and low investment cost. The partnering of Savio with A.T.E., is set to immensely benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these two leading groups, offer complete winding and twisting solutions to the Indian customers which will give them a sustainable competitive advantage in their business. Savio and A.T.E. will soon be organizing customer days across India for presenting the most advanced winding and twisting technology solutions to the Indian customers.

AUTEFA Solutions and CAMPEN Machinery A/S announce new partnership AUTEFA Solutions and CAMPEN Machinery A/S have made a partnership and offer machinery for airlaids and spunlaced airlaid products In March 2016, the two companies have made an agreement to cooperate in the development and sales of machinery and production lines for the traditional airlaid industry as well as for the new "Hydro Laced Airlaid Process" (HLAL) for non? flushable and flushable, dispersible, and biodegradable nonwovens, invented by CAMPEN Machinery A/S Denmark. AUTEFA Solutions Square Drum Dryer SQ-V

AUTEFA Solutions offers spunlace, drying and powder scattering technology as well as carding and card feeding technology. For the spunlace process AUTEFA Solutions has developed a new hydroentanglement jet. This technology enables 30% energy savings due to the special jet design. A new Square Drum Dryer SQ?V completes the line. AUTEFA Solutions product range includes fiber preparation machines, nonwovens cards as well as aerody-

March - April 2016

393

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

AndrĂŠ Imhof, CEO AUTEFA Solutions Austria GmbH and Arne Christensen, CEO CAMPEN Machinery A/ S explain: "With our two companies we are building a strong partnership. Each of our companies has developed new and energy?saving technology. Together we offer complete lines to produce flushable wipes. With our combined portfolios we offer advanced production technology, starting from raw material to the final nonwovens products."


NEWS namic web forming machines (Airlay), crosslappers and needle looms for mechanical bonding. AUTEFA Solutions Switzerland delivers equipment for thermal bonding, drying systems including dryers and ovens for the wood pulp and short cut stable fiber based Airlaid industry.

dustry. The product range includes coating and lamination lines, winding, slitting, rewinding purposes and packaging as well as complete lines for the artificial turf and carpet industry. CAMPEN Machinery A/S headquarters is in Denmark and are owned by VARO A/S (Group). For more than 40 years, the group has built hammer mills, drum forming heads and complete lines for globally leading manufacturers within the airlaid industry. The Group has supplied process lines and equipment for the airlaid industry equal to approximately 20% of the world's airlaid capacity. A process of 40 years, of which the group is very proud of. CAMPEN Machinery has focus on promoting their airlaid technology worldwide, but also airlaid in combination with spunlace process and where natural and wood pulp fiber, can be replaced as alternative to oil?based plastic and/or chemical bonding agents in the final products.

CMAPEN Machinrery HLAL nonwovens product for flushable wipes applications

CAMPEN Machinery is the specialist for web forming from pulp fibers, or other fibers, via fiber dosing, hammermill and airlaids technology, compacting/embossing or calandering units, as well as the winding technology of airlaids or spunlaced airlaid products. CAMPEN Machinery A/S has many years of experience of development and manufacturing of different types of equipment for the carpet and nonwoven in-

AUTEFA Solutions Germany GmbH Paul? Lenz?Strasse 1 86316 Friedberg Phone: +49 (0)821 2608-0 germany@autefa.com www.autefa.com CAMPEN Machinery A/S Sletten 8 DK?8543 Hornslet Phone: +45 8744 3100 campen@campen.dk

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Suvin - Exploring Global Markets for you @ IDEA 2016 -2nd May to 5th May 2016 Today, Suvin is one of the major consultancy firms in India making its strong mark in domestic as well as international textile industry. MD & CEO, Mr. Avinash Mayekar is continuously promoting Technical Textiles in India since 2000 & have successfully executed several projects in domestic as well as international markets. Till date Suvin has completed 225 assignments including 13 international assignments. Suvin is always in continuous efforts to serve Technical Textile Industryprofessionally & exploring new platforms to promote India in global markets. The global market for Technical Textiles is ever in394

creasing. India has a great potential tocapitalize this opportunity. The technical textile market size in India is expected to grow at CAGR of 20% and reach 1,58,540 crores by 2016-17. Globally technical textiles contribute to about 27% of textile industry. In most of the developed countries, its share is even 50 percent while in India, it is hardly 11%. As Indian market size is very small compared to global markets, globally there is a huge market for Indian players to explore. International Exhibitions give a common platform to display products & offerings in global markets. It's a March - April 2016


NEWS great way for networking & business promotion where one can get unique opportunity to meet potential buyers. IDEA is the industry's premier event for nonwovens and engineered fabrics. Mr. Avinash Mayekar Says "I am a regular visitor to IDEA shows since 2007 & found ever increasing response by global leaders as it gives an opportunity to showcase our credentials to entire world. Through my personal contacts in global Technical Textile industry, I have well established network in various countries". It is expected that more than 7,000 people will converge in Boston from more than 70 countries from various sectors like hygiene, filtration, medical, automotive, geotextiles, building/construction textiles, home

furnishings and allied industries. During three days of the event, one can meet and conduct business with actual decision makers. Suvin has smartly identified this as a unique opportunity to market Indian products in untapped global markets. Suvin is pleased to have strategic alliance with Indian organizations & represent them during IDEA 2016. Suvin has all technical expertise, product knowledge & marketing network to promote products globally. They are all set to represent Indian clients in IDEA'16 @Booth No. 2140, Hall B.

Let us carve out … Better tomorrow!!!

ITM - the global meeting of textile technology giants Hall 3 / Booth 315A

SSM at ITM in Istanbul, Turkey, 1 - 4 June 2016, Hall 3 / Booth 315A. Twelve applications with the latest SSM technology will be showed. All machines are presented for the first time in Turkey.

SSM announces their participation of the forthcoming ITM in Istanbul, Turkey, from June 1st to 4th.

Besides of the presented application, SSM offers the new X-Series (PSX-W/D, PWX-W and TWX-W/D) for Dye Package Winding/Rewinding and Assembly Winding as well as the well-known machines for Air Covering, Draw Winding, Yarn Singeing and Conventional Covering.

After the successful introduction at ITMA in Milan, SSM will show their latest technologies and inventions for the first time in Turkey. Special attention lays on the new XENO-platform with the enhanced DIGICONE® 2 winding algorithm, enabling a 10-20% increase on dye package density with same dyeing recipe. Furthermore, SSM GIUDICI will present their new TG2 machine platform for air texturing and falsetwist texturing. Machines for the following applications will be on display:

As the market leader in these fields, SSM enjoys an excellent reputation. Furthermore, SSM maintains a worldwide service network that ensures the training of their customer's staff and the maximum return on customer's investments. SSM look forward to inspiring and exciting discussions concerning open projects using their latest developments. For more information about SSM solutions please contact: SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland

March - April 2016

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Swiss based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will continue their tradition of trend-setting with the presentation of breakthrough technologies.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Dye Package Winding/Rewinding (including Technical Textiles) Assembly Winding Air Texturing False Twist Texturing Sewing Thread Finish Winding


NEWS info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SSM_DURO-TW_300dpi precision package winder for technical yarns

www.textileassociationindia.org

SSM_GIUDICI_TG2-FT_300dpi automatic false-twist texturing machine with doffer

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion

Following a selected range of SSM-machines which will be exhibited in Istanbul.

SSM_XENO-YW_300dpi precision package winder with DIGICONEÂŽ 2 396

March - April 2016


NEWS

GOTS' growth continues: More than 840.000 workers in certified operations

New personnel: Marcus Bruegel hands over his office to Rahul Bhajekar. The number of facilities certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) kept on growing last year, from 3,663 facilities in 2014 to 3,814 facilities in 2015. GOTS is recognised worldwide as the leading processing standard for textiles made with organic fibres. GOTS certified facilities are now located in 68 (63 in 2014) countries around the world. Growth is evenly spread across all market segments including the mass market and the big brands. GOTS certification enables consumers to purchase items that are certified organic and social responsible from field to finished product. Countries or regions with the largest increase in GOTS certification in 2015 are (in rank order): India (+74), Europe (+58) Turkey (+27) and Bangladesh (+21). The Top Fifteen countries in terms of the total number of GOTS certified facilities are: India (1,441), Turkey (489), Germany (306), Bangladesh (210), China (201) Pakistan (142), Italy (141), Portugal (89), South Korea (80), Japan (65), USA (60), France (56), UK (49), Austria (49), Denmark (41). "Again, the figures show that GOTS' credible and independent certification of the entire supply chain is an important driver for the business case for sustainability - in contrast to mere self-claims", says Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director. To date the GOTS accredited independent Certification Bodies report 847,749 people working in 2,799 (out of the actual 3,814) GOTS certified facilities. The

March - April 2016

number is likely to reach one million when the final figures are received. "This number is a further indication of the relevance of the Global Organic Textile Standard, in addition to the number of GOTS certified operations. We will, with the cooperation of the independent GOTS certifiers and academic research, collect and report additional data in order to demonstrate GOTS' ecological and social impact", notes Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Managing Director. Marcus Bruegel, the GOTS Technical Director has left his position February 15, 2016. Marcus was with GOTS from the start and has contributed tremendously to its growth and stature. His role in the successful establishment of GOTS as a globally recognised label has been exemplary. Acknowledging his pioneering contribution, Marcus was given a fond farewell by the GOTS family with best wishes for his future at the Annual Meeting of GOTS on 13 February. Rahul Bhajekar has been appointed his successor and will be responsible for the further development and quality assurance of GOTS, including environmental and social aspects. He has more than 21 years of experience in textile testing and chemical restrictions, as well as in implementation of GOTS with manufacturers, processors and chemical companies. Rahul has been familiar with GOTS since 2005 and served as a member of the GOTS Technical Committee for several years. One if his first major tasks would be to spearhead upcoming revision of the GOTS version 4.0. For further information, please contact: GOTS Global Organic Textile Standard Claudia Kersten Director Marketing & Finance Representative in Germany, Austria and Switzerland www.global-standard.org

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

New figures: The positive trend of increasing numbers of GOTS certified facilities continued and for the first time GOTS can report data on the numbers of workers in certified operations.


NEWS

Graf at ITM 2016 in Istanbul Innovations in Clothings, Combs & Service machines The company Graf, located in Rapperswil near Zurich, is the leading manufacturer of clothings for flat cards and roller cards. Graf will introduce several innovative solutions at ITM in Istanbul.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Flexible flat clothings are one of the key components in a carding machine. To ensure an evenly high quality of the carding sliver, they have to be replaced regularly. For this process the card needs to be stopped. To keep these down-times as short as possible, Graf now offers a new flat top system, which can reduce the stoppage time by up to 70 %. The so-called EasyTop is applied on flat bars designed for magnetic attachment. The flat tops, equipped with a metal carrier, are attached securely and precisely by means of a magnetic connection. They resist even highest carding forces and guarantee for a high reliability in operation. The EasyTop system can be used for aluminium flat bars with magnetic attachment technology from all manufacturers. EasyTop are available for working widths of 40", 51" and 60" in a selection of the wellknown and proven types of flat clothings. Graf will also present new products for the combing process. The X-Comb segments can be used on comb-bodies requiring individual segments from other manufacturers and thus now make the leading 398

Graf technology also accessible for these conventional combs. The combing segments made from metallic clothings that undergo a special surface treatment, which substantially reduces the running-in period. The new circular comb series FlexComb, with height adjustable geometry, a detachable spoiler and a 130° combing surface has been developed for high-performance combers of the latest generation. A short running-in period thanks to the special surface treatment as well as efficient trash removal with optimal fibre selection guarantees cost effectiveness. The new circular comb series FlexComb, with height adjustable geometry, a detachable spoiler and a 130° combing surface has been developed for high-performance combers of the latest generation. A short running-in period thanks to the special surface treatment as well as efficient trash removal with optimal fibre selection guarantees cost effectiveness. In addition Graf will present the DABM flat striping machine for the first time in Istanbul. The DABM allows gentle and correct removal of worn flexible flat clothings from the flat bars. Quick clamping with pneumatic clamping device and the maintenance-free three-phase AC motor without toothed belt are merely two advantages of this service machine. Applicable for flat bars with working widths from 40" - 60", the DABM allows a Straight-forward and efficient mechanical removal of the worn flat strips from the flat bars. For more details please contact: Silvano Rufo, Head Marketing T +41 52 208 82 22 Business Group Components F +41 52 208 83 82 Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 silvano.rufo@rieter.com CH-8406 Winterthur www.premium-textilecomponents.com March - April 2016


NEWS

Indonesia's spinners to meet the perfect match for qualityHands-on opportunities with the new USTER®TESTER 6

"Indonesia's spinners are very ambitious. Many of the mills are aiming to supply the high-quality market segment," says Djendjen Halim, Director at Agansa Primatama, one of the country's foremost agents for textile machinery and technology. After its launch at ITMA 2015, USTER®TESTER 6 has already attracted immediate global interest - including an order for three systems by one of Indonesia's leading textile producers, Indorama Corporation. Now, the agency has arranged for the latest innovation in yarn testing to be introduced to a wider audience of spinners with a special presentation of the USTER®TESTER 6 at Indo Intertex 2016 in April. Sensor innovations

Another vital yarn quality parameter, hairiness, is covered comprehensively by the USTER®TESTER 6. The latest Sensor HL, for hairiness length classification at speeds of 800 m/min, complements the established hairiness Sensor OH. Together, they offer spinners a total picture of yarn hairiness, for the first time ever. Made for Indonesia The Indo Intertex exhibition will be staged in Jakarta from April 27-30 with the theme 'Be Ready with More Market Opportunities Ahead'. This objective fits perfectly with the benefits of the new Total Testing Center, which is incorporated in the USTER®TESTER 6. The route to Total Testing is through the USTER®QUALITY EXPERT quality management tool. Starting with the precision laboratory test results from USTER®TESTER 6, the system integrates in-process information from yarn clearers, which monitor 100% of production at the winding machines. The Total Testing Center then takes spinning mills to the next stage, with detailed analysis of all the data and expert interpretation - giving practical advice and options for specific improvements. Importantly, this takes account of quality requirement, so that mills can make informed and risk-free decisions on every aspect of the yarn manufacturing process. A suitable slogan for the USTER®TESTER 6 might also be 'designed for Indonesian spinners' - since many of its new features do not require highly-trained operatives: "Our customers observe that finding knowledgeable staff becomes harder every year," says Halim.

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The vibrant spinning industry of Indonesia is the perfect match for the USTER®TESTER 6. The world's most advanced quality measuring system is the gateway to Total Testing, while the integrated Assistant Q support feature guides mills to the best quality and profitability choices for targeting high-end textile applications. Agansa Primatama will demonstrate these benefits directly to the spinners at the Indo Intertex event.

When it was first exhibited publicly at ITMA in Milan last year, USTER®TESTER 6 introduced an array of ground-breaking new features. It represents a significant step forward in terms of accuracy, the range of measurements provided and the user-friendly interpretation of quality data. Innovative sensor technology is at the heart of the USTER®TESTER 6. The novel digital CS capacitive sensor delivers its results - including the famous CVm `USTER value´ - with unprecedented speed and reliability.


NEWS Assistant Q is the built-in support service which solves this problem perfectly for spinners. Backed by 65 years of USTER expertise, Assistant Q checks all measurements and proposes a checklist of solutions for any quality issue it finds - akin to hiring a new staff member with all the know-how a mill could need. Seeing is believing Visitors at Indo Intertex can see a live presentation of the USTER®TESTER 6 at Agansa's booth (hall B3, booth no. 77-78). After the show, the motto for spinners will be 'Seeing is Believing' as they are invited to book in for detailed tests with their own yarns at the Agansa HQ in Bandung. "We are proud to present the USTER®TESTER 6 at the exhibition and later in our showroom, as we are convinced that innovative solutions such as this are the key to a prosperous future for the textile industry in Indonesia," says Halim.

Agansa is also able to maximize the impact of the benefits of USTER®TESTER 6 by organizing tailored training sessions in the local language, targeted at the needs of both the customer and of the local market. Well-trained staff completes the circle for the USTER Total Quality Testing concept for Indonesia - making the ambitions of the spinning mills an achievable reality. Media contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91 Fax +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com

"15th Product-cum-Catalogue Display Show receives overwhelming response" Erode where 50 member-exhibitors of ITAMMA from the area of manufacturers and traders of machines, spare parts and components have participated in the above show.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri D. Palanisamy, Chairman, Pallava Group, Erode, inaugurating the 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show

Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA) organized 15th Productcum-Catalogue Show on 12th February, 2016 at The Oasis, Sathy Road, Erode, TN., where a well-known identity from the industry, Shri D. Palanisamy, Chairman, Pallava Group, Erode, was the Chief Guest and inaugurated the Show. The 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show provided an ideal platform to the textile industry in and around 400

Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President, ITAMMA offering Memento to the Chief Guest, Shri D. Palanisamy, Chairman, Pallava Group, Erode.

After the successful fourteen Product-cum-Catalogue Shows of ITAMMA held at various places covering each textile clusters of India, this show organized in the textile cluster of Erode received an overwhelming response recording more than 750 foot falls from variMarch - April 2016


NEWS ous spinning, weaving and processing industries in and around Erode. The high number of foot fall was a result of extensive advertisement through display of hoardings at various important areas of population of textile industries. Following ITAMMA's 50 members participated in the B2B-cum-Catalogue Display Show:

Caretex Engineers Coimbatore-641 004. Email: subbudharshan@gmail.com Continental Engineering Industries Pvt. Ltd. Gandhinagar-382 028. Email: info@continentals.in Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai-400 001. Email: mayank_roy@hotmail.com mjrum06@gmail.com Gummi-Fab Industries Ahmedabad-380 002. Email : gummifab@gmail.com Indo Texnology Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 016. Email: info@indotexnology.com Jacobi Machinery Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 103. Email: jacobi@simta.com / simta@simta.com

Adwaith Lakshmi Industries Limited Coimbatore-641 659. Email: info@adwaithlakshmi.in Agarwal Engineering Works Ahmedabad-380 016. Email: aewagarwal@yahoo.com AirmaasterTecnolozies India (P) Ltd. Coimbatore-641 021. Email : poorna@airmaaster.com / airmaaster@airmaaster.com Associated Autotex Ancillaries Pvt. Ltd. Coimabatore-641 014. Email : sales@autotex.net B. Tex India Coimbatore-641 002. Email : btexindia94@gmail.com Baskara Industries Coimbatore-641 009. Email: baskarainds@gmail.com Canalair Air Solutions Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 006. Email: br.balan@canalair.in ba.joseph@canalair.in

March - April 2016

KrsnaEngimech (P) Ltd. Ahmedabad-382 330. Email: chandreshshah09@gmail.com Lakshmi Ring Travellers (Cbe) Ltd. Coimbatore-641 406. Email: sales@lrtltd.com Mag Solvics Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-642 109. Email: marketing@magsolvics.com Naren Textile Engineers India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 014. Email: gmmarketing@narenonline.com P.R. Texpro Engineering Surat-395 004. Email: sales@prtexpro.in Perfect Equipment's Pvt. Ltd. Ahmedabad-382 430. Email: sales@perfectequipments.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A section of visitors to the 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show

Jogindra Industries New Delhi-110 015. Email: info@jogson.com

Pipe Agencies Coimbatore-641 018. Email: pipe.agencies@gmail.com / info@pipeagencies.in Poornima Enterprises Coimbatore-641 034. Email: poornima.naval@gmail.com 401


NEWS PrashantGamatex Pvt. Ltd. Ahmedabad-382 445. Email: gamatex@prashantgroup.com

Super Tex Industries Mumbai-400 063. Email: supertex@vsnl.net

Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai-400 018. Email: divend@gmail.com

Swiss Service Management India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 002. Email: at.narayanan@ssm-india.in

Reshmi Industries (India) Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 035. Email: reshmi@reshmiindustries.com

Techno Electronics & Instruments Coimbatore-641 021. Email: sales@technotesting.com / contact@technotesting.com

Rishitex Engineering India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 028. Email: rishitex21@gmail.com Sakthi Associates Coimbatore - 641 062. Email: madhur@sakthiassociates.in Sanjay Plastics & Industrial Services Kota, Rajasthan. Email: info@sanjayplastics.com Sanmit Card Clothing India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 033. Email: info@sanmitcard.com / ram@sanmitcard.com Sakthi Textile Engineers Coimbatore-641 006. Email: sales@sakthitop.com sundar@sakthitop.com Shree Ram Textile Ahmedabad-380 018. Email: textile@shreeram-group.com SiegerSpintechEquipments Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 407. Email: marketing@siegerglobal.net

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Spinnova Coimbatore-641 012. Email: spinnovajv@gmail.com

Tex Tech Industries (India) Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore - 641 004. Email: textech@textechonline.com Tefoc Accessories, Coimbatore - 641 045. Email: info@tefoc.com The Commercial Combines Coimbatore-641 009. Email: krishnamurthiprabhu@gmail.com UnirolsAirtex Coimbatore-641 062. Email: sales@unirolsairtex.com Unirols Card Clothing India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 033. Email: sales@unirolscardclothing.co.in Vetal Textiles & Electronics Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 014. Email: v.sales@vetal.com White & Company Coimbatore-641 002. Email: vellayan@whitenco.net Rabatex Industries Ahmedabad - 382 430. Email: sales@rabatex.com

SPI Equipments India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 021. Email: info@spinfracolor.com

Sri Ashwin Industries Coimbatore-641 004. Email: sriashwinindustriess@gmail.com achu_kumaravel@rediff.com

Spin Air Systems Coimbatore Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 103. Email: spinaircbe@gmail.com

Vetri Engineers Coimbatore-641 004. Email: exports@vetriengineers.com

Srinivasa Textile Equipment Company Coimbatore-641 017. Email: srinivasaspikes@yahoo.com Sumanlal J. Shah Sons (P) Ltd. Coimbatore-641 009. Email: sumanlal@sumanlal.com 402

The Brochures containing the details of member-participants were distributed to more than 1500 expected visitors.The Feed Back Forms were submitted to the member-exhibitors whose analysis is given in the attachment marked as 'Annexure-I' which states that about 21 % of the exhibitors showed a satisfactory results.The March - April 2016


NEWS trend of visitors were 80% from the spinning industry; while 12% from weaving and 8% from processing industry. Further, the category of Executives & Senior Officers were about 30%, followed by 25% Managers, 23% Technicians and 22% Traders.

This 10th Product-cum-Catalogue Display Show was very grand success. Many of the companies received the enquiries and some orders confirmation.

'ANNEXURE-I' INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES & MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show Member-exhibitor Evaluation Status Dissemination of information Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

11 (22%)

16 (32%)

8 (16%)

4 (8%)

1 (2%)

Co-ordination at Directorate level Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

9 (18%)

20 (40%)

6 (12%)

4 (8%)

2 (4%)

Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

11 (22%)

18 (36%)

6 (12%)

6 (12%)

1 (2%)

Other related services

Administrative arrangements Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

9 (18%)

21 (42%)

6 (12%)

2 (4%)

2 (4%)

Technical Support arrangements Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

10 (20%)

18 (36%)

6 (12%)

2 (4%)

2 (4%)

Excellent

Good

Fairly Good

Sufficient

Insufficient

8 (16%)

21 (42%)

8 (16%)

3 (6%)

1 (2%) Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Overall evaluation of the Show

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org

Follow us on March - April 2016

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NEWS

ITM 2016 Most important dynamic exhibition of textile industry ITM 2016 International Textile Machinery Exhibition and concurrent HIGHTEX 2016 International Technical Textile & Nonwoven Trade Fair expected to attract 1200 exhibitors and more than 60.000 visitors from 72 countries, will be held at Tuyap Fair Convention and Congress Center on June 1-4.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Latest technologies nationally developed in textile machinery industry will be debuted at ITM 2016 Exhibitors from 72 countries will meet more than 60.000 visitors during the exhibition that will be the most important dynamic of the textile industry in 2016. Being held with the partnership of TUYAP and TEKNIK FUARCILIK and support by TEMSAD in 12 halls with the participation of 1200 manufacturing companies, ITM 2016 Exhibition and HIGHTEX International Technical Textile & Nonwoven Trade Fair will be the largest gathering for textile technologies, which Turkey and the region have hosted so far. Istanbul, the heart of the world; ITM 2016, the address for textile industry ITM 2016 International Textile Machinery Exhibition is held in Istanbul, one of the world's most strategic locations in geographical terms, will be a meeting point for all the industry representatives. Istanbul, the West's doors to the East and the East's doors to the West has a position as the centre of textile industry. ITM 2016 where brands intending to become one of the actors in the world market will exhibit their innovative technology investments and new products will be the address for textile industry in 2016. 404

Sales for ITM 2016 completed Money traffic in the world causes industries regionally either to rally or to restrain. It is anticipated that the2016-2017 season will be extremely positive for the region. The depreciation of EU, particularly in the Euro region, against dollar compared to previous years will further highlight Euro as an exporter. It will also lead Europe to cut down purchases from the Far East. Lately, IMF has raised its forecast of growth of Turkey in 2016 from 3.2 to 3.8. The clearest indicator for this is the strong demand in ITM 2016. Sales for ITM 2016, the largest edition since it's foundation / ever, have been concluded by April. Strategic importance of Turkey in textile and apparel has a great share in the increase in the number of exhibitors. ITM 2016, growing by 55% compared to ITM 2015, has further increased interest. All eyes and ears will be on Istanbul At ITM 2016 Exhibition during which latest textile machinery and technologies will be presented, all eyes and ears of the textile world will be on Istanbul. Growing with the strong demand for participation, ITM 2016 will be a meeting point for both domestic and foreign manufacturers and exporters. Turkey, the most significant market for textile machinery manufacturers, stands out in the conjunctional structure of the world. Being organized under the motto: "Textile Exhibitions are held in the Land of Textile" since 2004, ITM Exhibitions have become an important brand for Turkey and the surrounding countries. ITM 2016 bearing a significant added value for our country, will be an outstanding exhibition preferred by world's textile machinery manufacturers. Worldwide Promotional Activities ITM Exhibitions gain worldwide attraction with its visitors as well aswith its exhibitors. In addition to local textile manufacturers showing keen interest, each exhibition is also visited by purchasing committees, groups of investors and professional visitors from all over the world. Particularly at 2013 Exhibitions, besides the neighboring countries, visitors from textileinvesting regions in the world such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, Iran, Egypt, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Africadrew attention. An increased March - April 2016


NEWS number of visitors from Europe and Asia, particularly Iran and countries, is expected for the ITM 2016 Exhibition. In this direction, worldwide promotional meetings and press conferences have been organized for ITM 2016 Exhibition. Activities are still running anywhere from Europe to Far East, from USA to Africa. HIGHTEX 2016 will be held simultaneously HIGHTEX 2016, the 6th International Technical Textile and Nonwoven Trade Fair,will be held in Hall 11

at Istanbul Tuyap Fair Convention and Congress Center on June 1-4, 2016. At HIGHTEX 2016 Exhibition, the first and only event in its field, raw materials for technical textiles, intermediary and final products and production technologies will be seen together. The fact that HIGHTEX 2016 Exhibition, the largest gather for technical textiles in the Middle East and Eastern Europe, will be concurrently held with ITM 2016 Exhibition will create a highly positive and efficient synergy.

ITM Istanbul - Stäubli at the ITM 2016

The Turkish weaving market has long been amongst Stäubli's most important markets. Anticipating rising demand and the growing importance of the Turkish textile industry, Stäubli invested in a fully owned subsidiary in Istanbul back in the mid-90s. Stäubli's sales and technical teams cover the whole country, from Istanbul to Kayseri and Gaziantep, closely collaborating with customers as long-term partners. These relationships are beneficial for both Stäubli and its customers. As an industry partner, Stäubli constantly analyses customers' most important needs and integrates solutions to them in the development of its new products. Working in this way, Stäubli offers an extensive machinery range that perfectly meets weavers' expectations and offers mills increased advantages in terms of reliability, long service life and versatility in application. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

LX Jacquard machine for exquisite flat fabrics, terry cloth and technical fabrics This machine was successfully launched at last year's ITMA in Milan. At the ITM, visitors will see it demonstrated with Stäubli harnesses. Built with uncompromising high-quality materials and designed to perform with utmost precision at very high speeds, The LX Jacquard machine allows mills to weave sophisticated fabrics for virtually any application - from colourful African damask to automobile airbags. Dobbies and cam motions The third generation of Stäubli's rotary dobbies, the S3060/3260 series, can be seen with many application examples at the Stäubli stand and the booths of many other weaving machine manufacturers. This new generation of rotary dobbies reaches new heights of performance and reliability.

Shedding solutions for frame weaving machines (cam motions, electronic dobbies) High-speed Jacquard machines with customerspecific harnesses Automated weaving preparation machines (for drawing in and warp tying) Carpet and technical textiles weaving machines Knitting solutions and drive systems

Amongst the products being exhibited at the ITM are:

S3060 rotary dobby

Weaving preparation systems Today, thousands of weaving mills around the world March - April 2016

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In about a month, the biannual ITM trade fair for textile industrials is opening its doors in Istanbul. Stäubli is ready for this event and welcomes its customers and all other interested parties to Booth 217 in Hall 2.


NEWS rely on the automatic drawing-in machinery from Switzerland. At the ITM, weavers can see the recently launched SAFIR S60 drawing in a 100% cotton warp sheet (8,173 ends) with Ne 80/2 threads into 16 heald frames (steel J-shaped end loops), drop wires, and reed with a density 200 dents/10cm.

LX electronic Jacquard machine

Automatic toe-closing device for circular knitting machines A recent innovation, the D4S automatic toe-closing device, will be presented on a circular sock knitting machine. Also at the booth will be a variety of servo motors, electronic control solutions, input/output devices and related programming tools used mainly in the textile industry.

SAFIR S60 drawing-in machine with operator

A TOPMATIC warp-tying machine will demonstrate high-efficiency warp tying. This proven machine is designed for standard applications and handles even the finest yarns. Carpet weaving systems The Stäubli business unit "Schönherr carpet systems" will showcase sophisticated carpet samples. These samples illustrate technological advances such as the recently introduced Magic Shadow Effect, the traditional carpet effect and other high-density applications.

Original Stäubli spare parts - with a dedicated area at the booth Stäubli supplies a full range of original-quality spare parts to ensure the longest service life of its machines. Customers can easily manage and handle their replacement parts needs using Stäubli's convenient interactive spare parts catalogue. Visit Stäubli's Booth 217 in Hall 2 Everyone is cordially invited to visit the Stäubli booth, see the products on display and discuss their needs and wishes with Stäubli specialists. … and more Additional examples of Stäubli products can be seen during the ITM at various stands of Stäubli partners in various applications with Jacquard machines, dobbies and cam motions.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

A-3

Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

A-8

Birla Cellulose

Cover 2

Reliance Industries Ltd.

Cover 1

India ITME

A-2

Rieter India Ltd.

A-1

Journal of the Textile Association

A-7

Rieter India Ltd. (Copmponents)

A-5

Kothari Textile Industries

A-6

Unitech Techmech

Cover 4

Lakshmi Machine Works

Cover3

World Textile Conference 2

A-4

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March - April 2016


NEWS

LIVA - A new fashion ideology collaborates with Fashion Industry LIVA partners FDCI at AIFW to reach fashion designer fraternity Amazon India Fashion Week,New Delhi - 16th to 20th March 2016

Liva gives an opportunity to designers to explore themselves because it is really fluid. It enables them to use their creativity in whatever way they like. LIVA fabrics are ready for Fashion Industry with "Ready to dye/print" which have exceptional fluidity, & a natural base which is driven by fashion. Quality, innovation and service are three main mantras for LIVA to excel. The brand LIVA is already tied up with 22 major brands and more are planned for the coming season. The AIFW, Delhi being a huge platform for the fashion fraternity, the participation of LIVA as the official partner revolves around 3 main objectives.

Fashion is a creative self-expression that prevails in a flexible society. Right from Fashionistas to local clothing arenas, all are influenced by the Fashion trends, artistic curations and inspirational designs. Fashion Designers are always looking at innovations in fabrics and fibers as to what new things they can create. Fashion Design Council of India - FDCI provides the perfect platform for representing, nurturing, promoting and getting extraordinary fashion talents to the fore. LIVA's participation as the official partner in the Amazon India Fashion Week in New Delhi is an endeavor to bridge this gap and reach to the fashion designer fraternity

1.

2.

3.

Liva fabrics for Fashion Industry - Availability of ready to dye /print which have exceptional fluidity are nature based and driven by fashion. Promote Availability of Liva fabric in small commercial quantities through LIVA partners - Liva has tied up with two retail partners in New Delhi, Surat, Kolkata, Ahmedabad, and Hyderabad for smooth supply. Showcase Liva SS 16 '& AW '15collections - LIVA has many attractions for brand & fashion conscious youth. LIVA SS and AW collections offers 200 fabrics in each season designed in conjunction with WGSN, International Design Consultants and LIVA, led by global brands.

Market research with designers, retailers and consumers has shown exceptional potential for designer wear. "Here at Fashion Week, we are connecting with all designers to resolve the challenge of design worth fabric availability. We shared our solutions with them," said, Manohar Samuel, President, Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cellulose. L to R: Mr. Manohar Samuel, Mr. Dilip Gaur, Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Mr. Sunil Sethi& Mr. Ritesh Khandelwal March - April 2016

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Samuel interacting with Designer Rohit Bal outside LIVA Lounge

Liva gives an opportunity to designers to explore themselves because it is really fluid. It enables them to use their creativity in whatever way they like. LIVA fabrics are ready for Fashion Industry with "Ready to dye/print" which have exceptional fluidity, & a natural base which is driven by fashion.


NEWS The shortlisted designers represented a range of unique styles and talents with each of them having their own masterpieces to showcase on the final day. Birla Cellulose has even sponsored a 'Natural Fibre Chair' at National Institute of Designing (NID) Ahmedabad. In addition to this, the company offers internship to 15 fashion students every year.

Mr.Manohar Samuel with designer Narendra Kumar and others

"Fashion Design Council of India - FDCI and Amazon Fashion Week provides the setup to collaborate with extraordinary fashion talent," he added. "LIVA Accredited Partner Forum has really grown and is catering many domestic brands fueling manufacturing in India. The growth is very encouraging. We are collaborating with designer's community in several ways. We connect with top designers at event like Amazon Fashion Week, other fashion shows and young designers through our event "LIVA Protégé' informed Mr. Samuel.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

According to Mr. Manohar Samuel, "As one of the largest textile and fashion conglomerates in the country we believe that Indian fashion landscape is extremely dynamic and its talent pool rich and diverse. LIVA is a new age natural fabric and has been accepted well by the textile value chain." In an effort to connect with the young budding fashion talent LIVA had provided a platform called LIVA Protégé. In its first edition, Liva Protégé 2015, a pan India designer hunt for recognizing India's future stars in the field of fashion covered over 12 cities, top 50 fashion institutes and touching more than a hundred students across India. Liva Protégé was powered by Liva - a new-age fabric, from the house of Birla Cellulose, designed to infuse incredible fluidity into garments. It aimed to tap into the great Indian talent pool and ensure that promising fashion designers. Liva Protégé 2015 celebrated upcoming trend and style to recognize innovation and breakthrough talent on a national scale. The finalists belong to India's top fashion schools, namely, NIFT, Pearl, BD Somani, NID and Raffles. 408

Eco & Sustainable fashion has come to the forefront in the last few years, however for Birla Cellulose; sustainability is all about meeting present needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. It is heartening to know that Birla Cellulose works towards this goal at every step of their existence. Birla Cellulose is a collaborative partner for sustainable business across the chain and work with leading global brands on sustainability programs. Brand, Liva, which promises natural fluid fashion & high quality fabrics, is made using natural cellulosic fibres which are produced from wood pulp, a natural renewable resource. The pulp used is from trees which are specifically grown for this purpose i.e. more new trees are planted than trees are cut. It gives the earth a muchneeded green cover, saves 6-7 times more land in comparison to cotton, and saves 3-4 times more water than usual. The information contained in this electronic communication is intended solely for the individual(s) or entity to which it is addressed. It may contain proprietary, confidential and/or legally privileged information. Any review, retransmission, dissemination, printing, copying or other use of, or taking any action in reliance on the contents of this information by person(s) or entities other than the intended recipient is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us by responding to this email or telephone and immediately and permanently delete all copies of this message and any attachments from your system(s). The contents of this message do not necessarily represent the views or policies of Aditya Birla Group. Computer viruses can be transmitted via email. Aditya Birla Group Companies attempts to sweep e-mails and attachments for viruses, it does not guarantee that either are virus free. The recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. Aditya Birla Group does not accept any liability for any damage sustained as a result of viruses. March - April 2016


NEWS

Visitors at the LIVA Lounge Designer Abhijeet Khanna at the LIVA Lounge

Management Succession at Uster Technologies Ltd.

As previously communicated, Thomas Nasiou will assume the role of CEO (Chief Executive Officer) for the new financial year starting onApril 1st, 2016. This follows a planned transition and handover of responsibilities from Dr. Geoffrey Scott who will remain as a member of the Board of Directors. In order to ensure the most effective operation of the Board, the Board of Directors has decided to appoint Philip Mosimann and Dr. Geoffrey Scott to the roles of Co-Chairmen. From April 1st, Koichi Ito also joins the Board of Uster Technologies. Koichi Ito is the new Head of the Textile Machinery Division of Toyota Industries Corporation, succeeding Susumu Toyoda who has been promoted to a new position in Toyota Motor Corporation. Susumu Toyoda will leave the USTER Board as of April 1st.

"The Board of Directors of Uster Technologies and Toyota Industries Corporation are pleased that, with the new management organization, the long term continuity and success of Uster Technologies is secured. With Thomas Nasiou a strong internal successor as CEO is in charge, and with the support of Dr. Geoffrey Scott as a Co-Chairman, knowledgeable and dedicated leadership continues in the best interest for the company and its customers", says Philip Mosimann, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Uster Technologies. For further information please contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 8610 Uster Switzerland Direct: +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91 Fax: +41 43 366 39 58 edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Thomas Nasiou will take over the position as CEO of Uster Technologies as of April 1st, 2016. Dr. Geoffrey Scott and Philip Mosimann will become Co-Chairmen of the Board of Directors. Koichi Ito joins the USTER Board of Directors succeeding Susumu Toyoda.

Open your business to the world's largest professional network. March - April 2016

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NEWS

Manufacturing PA6 BCF specialties more profitably At this year's DOMOTEX Asia / CHINAFLOOR trade show, OerlikonNeumag presented its diverse range of products and services in Hall W3, Stand H01. The international trade met in Shanghai at the Asia-Pacific region's most important trade show for flooring between March 22 and 24. The focus of the OerlikonNeumag stand was on solutions for the efficient manufacture of carpet yarns. The exemplary success of the S+ BCF system over many years clearly shows that there is also a fo-cus on efficiency in BCF yarn manufacturing. Since being launched in 2011, the S+ is the world's big-gest-selling BCF system, efficiently manufacturing high-end BCF yarns across the globe. The S+ offers superlative performance in terms of efficiency The three-end S+ convinces not just with its 99% efficiency and its resulting cost savings in terms of raw materials, it also covers a very broad spectrum of producible total titers ranging from 700 to 4000 dtex. Furthermore, the multipolymer systems can be used without modifications to process all polymers, from polyester and polypropylene all the way through to polytrimethyleneterephthalic (PTT). The product program is complemented by the single-end Sytec One, which is convincing particularly in the specialties segment with its superlative yarn quality and high degree of flexibility.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Trend towards high-end yarns with fine filament titers

yarns with fine single filament titers are increasingly in demand. The rea-sons for this are generally believed to be the extremely low price of oil and the newly-established PA6 capacities in Asia, causing a price fall of approx. 30% for PA6 granulate in the last six months alone. "The current market conditions particularly in China have resulted in low prices for PA6. In turn, this has created an extremely interesting new market for high-quality carpets. Our systems are particularly well-positioned in the premium-price segment, which explains the currently stronger interest in our systems especially within the Chinese market", comments Alfred Czaplinski, Sales Manager BCF. Domotex Hanover, Germany, as a promising herald of things to come OerlikonNeumag was also satisfied with the four lively trade fair days in Hanover in the middle of January. With order contracts in the tens of millions of euros signed predominantly within the Euro-pean, US-American and Chinese markets - the volume of orders received within the context of the Domotex show in Hanover was unexpectedly good. Partnering for Performance In addition to the machinery portfolio, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment will also be showcasing its expanded range of services under its 'Partnering for Performance' motto. With high-performance local operations in China, our Customer Service offers customer not only fast provision of original OEM-quality parts, it also supports its Chinese customers with maintenance, repairs, training sessions and seminars, process consultation and numerous additional services. This guarantees that yarn manufac-turers are able to profitably operate their systems in the long term. With regards to process optimization, Industrie 4.0 solutions will soon also be available as a retrofit package for already installed systems

OerlikonNeumag BCF S+ RoTac3 Due to consumer behavior in the flooring segment, the Asian market has to date been considered a small market with a strong focus on contract products. However, there seems to be turnaround taking place here: high-end PA6 410

For further information please contact: Rickey Steele Marketing and Corporate Communications Tel. +49 4321 305 579 Fax +49 4321 305 368 rickey.steele@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing and Corporate Communications Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 28 447 2331 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com March - April 2016


NEWS

Morarjee Textiles buys first Zinser 72 manufactured in India quality standards, has decided in favour of the new Zinser 72 ring spinning machine and the new ZinserSpeed 5A from our Indian manufacturing plant," says Mr. Ralph Knecht of SaurerZinser.

Morarjee Textiles has ordered a fully automated production line from the German textile machinery manufacturer. It comprises seven brand-new ZinserSpeed 5A machines each with 160 spindles in 220 gauge, 22 ZinserImpact 72 machines with 1,824 spindles each and 22 Autoconer 6, type V package winders. Recognition with the Golden Zinser Spindle To recognise the first customer of the new plant, Mr. Ashok Juneja, Head of Sales & Service (India), and Mr. Ralph Knecht, General Manager of Ring spinning, presented the Golden Zinser Spindle to Mr.Harsh Piramal, Vice-Chairman, and Mr. R. K. Rewari, Managing Director of Morarjee Textiles. "We are proud that this Indian textile company, which is steeped in tradition and manufactures to the highest

"We operate in premium segments and are renowned among our customers for exquisite quality," explains Mr. Harsh Piramal of Morarjee Textiles. "When making an investment we consider very carefully what is best for our clients?SaurerZinser creates quantifiable added value for us and our customers." All the machines ordered have Saurer's E3 label denoting triple added value in the energy, economics and ergonomics categories. For more details please contact: Birgit Jansen Expert Communication Ring Spinning Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60 52531 Ăœbach-Palenberg Germany T + 49 2451 905 2875 birgit.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The first Zinser 72 machine to be manufactured in the new Zinser plant in India was ordered shortly prior to ITMA 2015 by the traditional Indian textile company Morarjee Textiles. Production commenced in the plant in Vadodara, in the state of Gujarat, in mid-September.

Renowned for its exquisite quality The glorious history of Morarjee Textiles dates back to its establishment in 1871. Today the company is a global leader in the production of very fine cotton fabrics. It spins over 1,000 tonnes of high-grade cotton yarn annually in counts ranging from Ne 70s to Ne 2/ 200s. All of this yarn is processed in the company to create high-quality fabrics and fashion garments for customers that include exclusive fashion houses in Europe and the USA.

WE Promote your business to the right target Visit : wwwtextileassociationindia.org March - April 2016

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NEWS

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

New Autoconer 6 enhanced in E3 The Autoconer 6 was delivered to the first customers at the beginning of the year. With its groundbreaking innovations, Schlafhorst's new automatic package winder caused a global sensation- "The best original ever". The German textile machinery manufacturer has presented the Autoconer6 - in a brand-new version geared to EÂł - to the general public at ITMA 2015. EÂł is synonymous withtriple added value in the energy, economics and ergonomics categories.

SmartCycle is the new, intelligent upper and lower yarn endpick-up function in which the winding unit, the Informator, the suction system and the doffer cooperateoptimally and are self-adjusting. The flowoptimised suction tube makes an effective contribution toenergysaving too: in one customer's mill, the vacuum could be reduced by 20-25 mbar while retaining a reliableupper yarn end pick-up.

Energy Energy consumption reduced by 20 %

The new Autoconer 6 also achieves a doubledigit increase in productivity. Even the basic model is 6 %more productive than its predecessor. LaunchControl boasts the latest process intelligence for a slipfree,self-optimised startup. Higher acceleration and faster deceleration of the winding system are possibleusingthe innovative Eco-Drum-Drive System. The advantage is obvious: the Autoconer 6 winds faster at maximumspeed and can be decelerated later.

A string of unique innovations has enabled Schlafhorst to reduce the energy consumption of the Autoconer 6by up to 20 % compared with its predecessor. A key contributory element here is the new Eco-Drum-Drive System in the self adjusting winding unit. Thanks to the latest drive and bearing technology, the Eco-DrumDrive System saves a considerable amount of energy. In addition, the suction system motor and frequencyinverter always work at the most effective operating point due to improved performance efficiency. Togenerate further energy savings on the spot by optimising the winding process, the energy consumption atany moment can be monitored online centrally at the Informator. The Autoconer 6 can be equipped with thenew Energy Monitoring facility for this. SmartCycle and the new intelligent vacuum adjustment system work together according to the "power ondemand" principle, i.e. creating a vacuum as required. This lightens the energy demand in the winding millsignificantly between yarn end pick-up cycles. 412

Economics 2 x 6 % more productivity

Non-stop productivity is the distinctive feature of the new generation of machines. In combination with thenew suction tube, SmartCycle cuts unproductive cycle times. Upper yarn faults are reduced as far aspossible, while optimized cycle sequences minimise downtimes. TensionControl, the standard yarn tensioncontrol system on the Autoconer 6, prevents unnecessary tension breaks during bobbin unwinding. Allthesefactors signify higher efficiency ratings and productivity right from the start. With the technologically optimised, high-performance Speedster FX module and the new SmartJet functionwith which the doffer supports the upper yarn search, another 6 % productivity can also be gained optionally.In practical tests with the SmartJet function, the doffer aids the upper yarn search so effectively that "red lightperiods" are reduced by up to 70 %.That's 12 % more productivity in all - a unique leap forward. March - April 2016


NEWS

Intelligent sensor technology and smart process control turn the Autoconer 6 into an automatic package winder that pushes the textile-technology limits outwards of its own accord and winds at the mostproductivesettings virtually without any operator input. The functional design and optimised process sequences minimise downtimes and malfunctions, so that manual intervention by the staff is practically unnecessary.Smart electronics and mechanical innovations complement one another in this design. Autocalibration of the splicer feeders and suction tubes relieves the burden on the operators substantially,because manual settings are rendered superfluous. The X-Change doffer assumes additional functions too:with Tube Check it detects tubes that are not round via laser and removes them automatically. This notonlyenhances the package quality, it increases staff safety. And it effectively aids the upper yarn search withSmart-Jet, meaning that operator intervention is rarely required. Even the time- and labour-intensive consumption measurements for optimising the energy utilisation ofprocesses are no longer required on the new Autoconer 6. The integrated Energy Monitoring and the newoperating console supply all the information needed for conserving energy at a glance. Smarter splicing Once again the Autoconer 6 sets the benchmark in splicing with the new SmartSplicer model family. Itscompletely revised splicer geometry ensures the best splice quality in every application with the simplesthandling. The splicing parameters can be entered conveniently at the Informator. The system guaranteesspliced joints that are identical with the yarn, maximum strength, outstanding dyeing results and full addedvalue in downstream processing. March - April 2016

The SmartSplicer will splice all common standard, compact and blended yarns. For extreme strength and aneven better appearance, especially for denim, linen and OE yarns, the SmartSplicer Injection is used. TheSmartSplicer Thermo is recommended for wool and wool-blend yarns, while for elastic core yarnsSchlafhorst offers the SmartSplicerElasto. The splicers are supplied ready for use and can be adjusted veryeasily in a few simple steps if required and adjusted to the process reliably. Leading automation solutions The Autoconer 6 has the most intelligent material flow system in the world. Schlafhorst offers its customersautomation solutions that lead the way in every respect. With VarioReserve, Intelligent Bobbin Sharing,HighSpeed Feeding and various automation units, Schlafhorst ensures profit-enhancing process reliability andminimal reliance on personnel in every spinning mill. A new standard has also been created for theAutoconer 6, type RM machine with its unique new circular magazine and the 9+1 bobbin feed concept. The superb, convenient package handling of the Autoconer 6 is especially important for automation purposes. The X-Change doffer has no equal with its innovative empty tube strategy and practical multitube handling. In Teaching Mode it learns to distinguish between tubes autonomously, and starts up automatically leading position in automation.The various machine types (RM, D, T and V) permit the automation of individual stages in every spinningmill. Added value in downstream processing: Schlafhorst quality packages The Autoconer package is the benchmark for quality and added value in downstream processing. Theperfect interaction between the new standard yarn tension control system Tension Control, the unwinding accelerator, the new Eco-Drum-Drive System, effective electronic anti-patterning and optionally the new gate tensioner or the disc tensioner produces a package density of unsurpassed uniformity. The Autoconer 6 introduces reliability and quality into the production of process-optimised packages through a broad range of package formats: cylindrical and tapered up to 5057', with traverse widths from 3" to 6".Packages with a diameter of up to 326 mm can be produced on the Autoconer. It goes without saying that aprecisely measured yarn length is achieved for all 413

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ergonomics Intelligence inside


NEWS package formats.

will please customers of Schlafhorst. Once again they willbe adecisive step ahead of the competition.

FX high-performance technology components For spinning mills that want to design their winding process to be more efficient and geared to added value, Schlafhorst offers the innovative FX high-performance components. The Autotense FX, Variotense FX,Propack FX, Variopack FX, Ecopack FX, Speedster FX and PreciFX modules hugely boost productionperformance and raise quality, productivity and cost-efficiency to the most advanced level, both inwindingand in downstream processing. The best original ever: just a year after its market launch, the Autoconer 6 continues to raise the bar in thewinding mill with its brand new functions. That

For more details please contact: Heike Scheibe Expert Communication Winding Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60 52531 Ăœbach-Palenberg Germany T + 49 2451 905 2847 heike.scheibe@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Novibra Introduces New Spindles and Clamping Crowns at ITM Improving Performance in Spinning Mills Another product presented at ITM is the clamping and cutting crown CROCOdoff, which will also be available as the version CROCOdoff Forte for coarse yarns. The crown is operated by the spindle speed and allows an automatic doffing. The improved design of the "teeth" guarantees a reliable clamping and cutting of the yarn. In addition the CROCOdoff reduces the risk of yarn breakage during start-up, decreases energy consumption, minimises material loss and reduces maintenance. CROCOdoff is suitable for the use with new machines as well as an upgrade for some old machines.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Spindle_with_CROCOdoff

Novibra, located in Boskovice, Czech Republic, is the leading company in spindle technology and the biggest exporter of spindles worldwide. Novibra will introduce innovative solutions for spinning mills at the ITM in Istanbul. Spindles in modern ring spinning machines reach speeds of up to 25,000 rpm. In these high-speed applications energy consumption is an important issue. Novibra is now introducing LENA (Low Energy consumption and Noise Absorption) highspeed spindles. Well proven Noise Absorbing System Assembly (NASA) ensures minimum neck bearing load, vibration and noise level at high speed, and in combination with unique wharve diameter 17, 5 mm and footstep bearing 3 mm diameter leads in lower energy consumption. LENA is designed for tube lengths of 200 mm to 210 mm. 414

For more details please contact: SilvanoRufo, Head Marketing T +41 52 208 82 22 Business Group Components F +41 52 208 83 82 Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 silvano.rufo@rieter.com CH-8406 Winterthur www.premium-textile-components.com

Texttreasure It is not the strongest nor most intelligent species that survives, but the one most adaptable to change. - Charles Darwin. March - April 2016


NEWS

Expansion of manmade fibers business

Oerlikon announced today that it has signed an agreement to acquire the entire staple fibers technology portfolio of Tr체tzschler Nonwovens & ManMade Fibers GmbH, Egelsbach, Germany. This company is part of the German Truetzschler Group, which is a specialist in fiber preparation for the yarn spinning and nonwovens industries. The acquisition expands the Manmade Fibers Segment's technology portfolio and opens up access to new customers in the market for synthetic staple fibers. Oerlikon is strengthening its technology and market position in its core business areas by taking advantage of the ongoing consolidation in the chemical fibers market, which was triggered by the market downturn in China. With the acquisition of the former Fleissner staple fibers technology portfolio and the intellectual property (IP) of Tr체tzschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers GmbH, the Segment becomes the leading technology and equipment provider in the global staple fibers market. The acquisition expands the Manmade Fibers Segment's staple fibers technology expertise and broadens the Segment's customer base and service business in the respective areas. As staple fibers projects are increasingly tied to continuous polycondensation facilities, already now the Manmade Fibers Segment is well positioned to operate as a provider of complete solutions. Both parties have agreed not to disclose details of the transaction. Truetzschler Group is discontinuing its staple fiber business as it has decided to focus on its core business activities. Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO of the Oerlikon Group, said: "The acquisition of the staple fibers technology portfolio of Truetzschler is another important step in line with our strategy to strengthen our position outside the filament business, where we occupy a leading technology and market position. The ongoing consolidation in the chemical fibers market presents interesting opportunities and we are taking this step to ensure that the Manmade Fibers Segment will merge stronger from the current market weakness and profit from the positive long-term market perspectives."

gies within the manmade fibers industry. In 2015, the produced staple fibers amounted to 18.5 million tons, or some 33 % of the total synthetic fibers capacity. Synthetic staple fibers are produced by the main conversion steps: polymer production, spinning further down to baling. The liquid polymer is either produced in a polycondensation plant or polymer chips are melted in an extrusion line. Staple fibers are made from different polymers, including: polyester, polypropylene, polyamide, recycled materials (rPET) or renewable polymers (such as polylactic acid, PLA). Those fibers are used in various applications such as apparels, nonwoven fabric production, reinforcement, filling, insulation and further special applications. Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon's Manmade Fibers Segment commented: "The former Fleissner staple fibers technology portfolio of Tr체tzschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers GmbH is an ideal fit for our business. It enhances our existing technology offering and broadens our service business. Furthermore, it opens up attractive business opportunities with key customers in that field. Combining the staple fibers process solutions and key components of both companies will enable us to increase customer value through developing further innovations. In addition, we will be able to offer the entire range of customer services for all installed machines and plants of the former Fleissner staple fibers technologies." For further information, please contact: Nicolas Weidmann Head of Group Communications Tel +41 58 360 96 02 Fax +41 58 360 98 02 pr@oerlikon.com www.oerlikon.com Andreas Schwarzw채lder Head of Investor Relations Tel +41 58 360 96 22 Fax +41 58 360 98 22 ir@oerlikon.com www.oerlikon.com

Texttreasure I much prefer the sharpest criticism of a single intelligent man to the thoughtless approval of the masses. - Johannes Kepler

Staple fibers technology is one of the core technoloMarch - April 2016

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Oerlikon acquires Truetzschler's staple fiber technology portfolio and becomes leader in staple fibers market.


NEWS

Presentation of innovations by all three Rieter business groups Presentation of innovations by all three Rieter business groups; implementation of STEP UP improvement program; details on outlook for 2015 During today's "investors' day" at the ITMA in Milan, Rieter will be describing the progress made in the focusing on the strategic priorities. These are concerned with the enhancement of innovativeness, the expansion of services and the increase in the profitability of the group. For the purpose of achieving the mid-term targets, the STEP UP improvement program announced in October last year is being implemented.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Innovations The Machines & Systems business group will be displaying the new E 36 / E 86 combing set, which offers a significant increase in productivity. The enlarged R 66 rotor spinning machine with improved S 66 spin box and the optimized air-jet spinning machine with the Polyester option P 26 will also be presented. The extended SPIDERweb Mill Control System is another highlight here; this represents the first step towards using the "Internet of Things" for optimizing the spinning mill. The business group Components will be presenting components such as the EliteAdvanced compacting system, the new X-Comb and the LENA high speed spindle, which allow spinning mills to gain a technological advantage and, as a result, achieve higher profitability. Services For the first time the business group After Sales will be presenting its own service and product range. The goal is to enable Rieter customers to make optimal use of the spinning mill over the entire lifecycle. The business development dynamics indicate market acceptance of this range. Consequently the business group is aiming to grow by more than 30% overall in the next three years, based on sales amounting to 127.5 million CHF in 2014. Profitability Rieter has been consistently implementing the STEP UP program (drawn up in October 2014) for the purpose of achieving its mid-term targets, i.e. an operative profitability (EBIT margin) of 10% in conjunction with a return on net assets (RONA) of 14%. 416

Details on outlook While the order intake trend for both business groups Components and After Sales is pleasing, the market for new machinery at the business group Machines & Systems is ata low level. This trend is due to spinning mills' low margins as well as uncertainty in the individual sales markets. Owing to the positive dynamics in the business groups Components and After Sales and a scheduled order book delivery in the business group Machines & Systems, Rieter is expecting for the whole of 2015 sales of around 1 billion CHF, operative profitability (EBIT) around 7 percent and a net profit of between 4 and 5 percent of sales. Presentation materials A complete set of presentation materials is available with this media release at www.rieter.com (http:// www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/.) Please register at www.rieter.com if you wish to receive our media releases regularly by e-mail. Future dates ◆ Publication of sales figures for the 2015 financial year: January 29, 2016 ◆ Results press conference and presentation for financial analysts on the 2015 annual results: March 15, 2016 ◆ Annual General Meeting 2016: April 6, 2016 For further information, please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. - Investor Relations JorisGröflin Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 I F +41 52 208 70 60 E-mail: investor@rieter.com I www.rieter.com Rieter Management Ltd. - Media Relations Cornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 I F +41 52 208 70 60 E-mail: media@rieter.com I www.rieter.com

March - April 2016


NEWS

Quality with a winning style The USTER®TESTER 6 triumphs in Red Dot Design Award 2016 Success at the first attempt in a prestigious international design competition was rooted in USTER's commitment to both innovative technology and elegant styling in its quality testing and monitoring instruments. The new USTER®TESTER 6 earned the Red Dot Design Award 2016 for its ideal blend of impressive functionality with distinctive looks now taking its place alongside other outstanding products in the Red Dot Design Yearbook. For yarn testing instruments, function comes first. And USTER®TESTER 6 fulfills this priority in every way, through comprehensive, precise and fast measurement capabilities. But then - perhaps akin to an individual looking to buy a new car - factors such as shape, color and brand image can also come into play for the textile mill customer.

Testing. This data is combined with real-time information from yarn clearers monitoring 100% of mill production. The underlying principles of precision and reliability in its operation are also reflected in the quality materials and high standards of manufacturing applied in its construction. An important element of USTER's product development strategy focuses on creating a unique and distinctive style. Specifically, this means instruments and components are deliberately designed to incorporate special shapes and profiles that are unique. This policy has been in place since at least 1987, when the USTER®TESTER 3 became the first instrument to feature a distinct 'rounded' appearance. It continued with the curved front section of the USTER®TESTER 5, establishing a clearly-recognizable look which sets the USTER® evenness testers apart from others.

Unique instrument, unique look

The USTER®TESTER 6 is the pulse of a new generation in yarn testing. The high accuracy and reliability of its measurements are crucial in assuring the commercial value of spinners' products. This sixth generation of the USTER®TESTER incorporates the USTER®QUALITY EXPERT, an essential tool for quality management, creating the brand-new Total Testing Center. Accurate laboratory test results from the USTER®TESTER 6 are the starting point for Total March - April 2016

What customers want Just as with a new car, mill managements are proud of their purchases in yarn testing instruments: there is always an emotional element in the choices they make. Laboratories worldwide feel the satisfaction that USTER®TESTER 6 confirms their status in the industry, as a major player for whom quality is paramount. In fact, elegant design has been integrated into USTER product developments for decades. The brief is to combine aesthetics with user-friendly ergonomics, so that creations - however stylized - will never detract from the primary needs of functionality and usability. Now, that style commitment has been formally acknowledged with the Red Dot Award 2016 for indus417

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

"Functionality, reliability, accuracy and user-friendliness have always been the top priorities in USTER product development, and this approach continues now and in future. However, we also admit that it's our ambition to manufacture the best-looking instruments too," says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn Testing within Uster Technologies.


NEWS trial design. But USTER customers will already recognize the same style concepts in products such as the USTER®QUANTUM yarn clearer. Excellence has its reward Only products which stand out strongly for their design excellence can earn the sought-after quality seal from the international Red Dot jury, inaugurated in 1955.For the 2016 awards a total of 5,214 products and innovations entered from 57 countries. Professor Dr. Peter Zec, founder and president of the Red Dot Award, says: "With their performances, the Red Dot winners not only demonstrated an extraordinary design quality, but they also showed that design is an integral part of innovative product solutions." The Red Dot product design competition this year saw 41 experts from all over the globe gathering in Germany at the end of February. The jury members included ICE and Transrapid designer Alexander Neumeister, fashion icon Jimmy Choo and automotive design legend Chris Bangle. During the jury session all entries were examined on site. Products were registered in 31 categories: from consumer electronics, furniture, jewelry or watches to interior decorations and lab technology. Global brands such as Google, Apple, Sony, LG, Philips, Kartell or Artemide regularly submit entries, but 2016 was the first time that USTER has put forward a product for consideration.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Night of honors A glamorous award ceremony and after-show party will be held on July 4, 2016, with 1,200 guests expected to see the winners receive their certificates. Their products will also be exhibited in the Red Dot Design Museum in Essen (Germany). Winners of the Red Dot Design Award 2016 will also be set down for posterity in the Red Dot Design Yearbook 2016/2017. In this publication, the USTER®TESTER 6 is described as follows: "Gloss and matt chrome finishes together with black components reflect the technical dimensions of the tester." Says Peters: "We are proud to be a winner of the Red Dot Design Award 2016 but it will always make us even more proud when customers report how the 418

USTER®TESTER 6 has helped to sustain their business success thanks to the Total Testing Center and other innovative features. Positive feedback of this kind is the best award USTER could ever receive." About the Red Dot Design Award:

In order to cover the wide scope of design in a professional manner, the Red Dot Design Award is broken down into three distinct disciplines: the Red Dot Award, Product Design; Red Dot Award, Communication Design; and Red Dot Award, Design Concept. The Red Dot Award is organised by the Design ZentrumNordrheinWestfalen in Essen, Germany. With more than 17,000 entries in 2015 alone, it is one of the largest competitions in the world. It was in 1955 that a jury convened for the first time to assess the best designs of the day. The name and branding of the awards were developed in the 1990s by Red Dot CEO, Professor Dr. Peter Zec. Since then the sought-after "Red Dot" is the revered international seal of outstanding design quality. For more information please contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG, Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct : +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile : +41 79 916 02 91 Fax : +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail : edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com, www.red-dot.org.

March - April 2016


NEWS

Reiners + Fürst - Premium Rings and Travellers Made in Germany at ITM 2016 Reiners + Fürst - Premium Rings and Travellers Made in Germany at ITM 2016

During the upcoming ITM in Istanbul R+F will present the latest generation of TURBO chromium coated rings and a selection of enhanced ring travellers: 1. TURBO rings offer simplified running-in and extremely stable running performance with highest spindle speeds even under most challenging spinning conditions like Compact and Siro-Compact. Since their launch into the market in 2007 more than 15 Million installed TURBO rings contribute to the success of spinning mills all over the world. 2. R+F ring travellers stand out due to most rapidly building up of lubricating film on their contact area with the spinning ring. The current innovation is a significant improvement of the traveller surface with reduced friction coefficient. The benefits are even prolonged life-times and further reduced ends-downs. 3. The CERADUR ring and traveller system optimizes capacity utilisation of long ring spinning machines and simultaneously reduces labour costs as well as traveller costs due to extremely long lifetimes: ◆

◆ ◆ ◆

R+F spinning rings in the production process

2-3 more days of production per year due to massive reduction of traveller changes and machine stoppage time 30-40% reduction of traveller costs per year 80% savings on labour costs for the traveller changes in the mill less disturbances due to fewer ends downs after each individual traveller change

R+F offers to analyse the individual mill situation together with the customer and evaluate possible saving potentials. We kindly invite you to stop by and visit us at our agent's booth (INTA hall 3 booth 314) at ITM in Istanbul.

R+F ring travellers in the production process March - April 2016

For more details please contact: Reiners + Fürst GmbH u. Co. KG Mr. Benjamin Reiners Leibnizstr. 85 41061 Mönchengladbach Germany Tel.: + 49 (0) 2161 934-0 Fax: + 49 (0) 2161 834555 travellers@rundf.de www.reinersfuerst.com 419

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Benjamin Reiners, Owner and Managing Director of R+F


NEWS

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP Firmly moves in the Weaving Sector SANTEX RIMAR GROUP has firmly moved in the weaving machine sector for the textile industry with the official entrance among its companies of SMIT, one of the world leading manufacturer of weaving machines.

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP and SMIT share values such as quality, high levels of innovation, flexibility, versatility and commitment to fulfil customer's expectations. The entrance in SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is an essential element of the Group strategic development and will allow SMIT to use a vast sales and support network worldwide to open up new opportunities and to provide a higher level of know-how for customers. With more than 150 years of history SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is present in various countries with four factories and more than 10,000 customers throughout the world and has the experience to be innovative yet offer reliability, lower cost of production and environment friendly technologies.

"SMIT technological know-how and committed human capital struggled by the past operational problems deserve to keep growing. We firmly believe in this restart: we have a solid plan involving our territorial district historically devoted to textile industry. We will start SMIT production in Trissino where SANTEX RIMAR GROUP headquarters are based and supplying customers throughout the world" said Ferdinando Businaro, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP President.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SMIT has been a forerunner in the weaving textile machine sector since 1938 and has become a key player worldwide in supplying weaving machines for a large variety of applications: the technology characterizing SMIT production includes weaving machines with rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments and terry cloths; air-jet weft insertion machine for high production volumes and customized solutions for the production of special technical fabrics.

The achieved synergy between SMIT and SANTEX RIMAR GROUP allows customers to rely on a global service network, high quality products, deep technological heritage and above all on an integrated technology provider for all production processes, from loom to finished - natural and technical - textiles. For more information: press@santexrimar.com SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, LocalitĂ Colombara 50 36070 Trissino (Vicenza) - Italy

Information on your new products, equipments and process You are invited to submit information about new products, equipments and process, developed and offered by you to the textile market. Such write-ups are entertained for publication in JTA without any cost.

Don't miss this opportunity to promote your new products.

Write to : taicnt@gmail.com 420

March - April 2016


NEWS

SETEX introduces the App "SECOM mobile" with features for actual and new controller generation S E T E X Schermuly textile computer GmbH will show at ITM 2016 the new business App for mobile communication with SECOM controls, available for IOS/Apple and Android/Google tablets and smart phones. As phones and tablet devices start actively participating as expanded computing environment, SETEX has developed the App to provide real-time machine data. The SECOM mobile App scans and detects independently for machines with Setex control systems. The setup and access fits into the IT- security environment

of the plant. Managers can benefit from batch status information and time to batch end. Operators will make use of machine status information and time to next operator call. Service and maintenance responsibles take advantage of alarm and event notification and remote monitoring. With the default installation, the software is enabled to connect with two machines, limited to "read only" access. Licensing at SETEX enables for further access levels. For more details please contact: JĂźrgen Jerzembeck Head of Marketing +49 177 555 8241 Juergen.Jerzembeck@setex-germany.com

SETEX releases version 3 of the contactless fabric-scanning solutions CamCOUNT and fabric INSPECTOR

Working with modern camera devices renders radiation safety instructions obsolete. The CamCOUNT V3 fabric measurement directly on the machine rollers makes measurement plates obsolete, avoids friction and allows numerous positions to mount the system - even on relatively small areas along the fabric run. Smart software algorithms to analyze fabric density and evaluate parameters for process control of shrinkage and overfeed, add value on different machines as sanforizing or compactors. March - April 2016

The use on tenter frames provides additional information on skew distortion. Beside improved fabric quality and better colour and pattern uniformity on printed fabrics, the system reduces variations of over- and underweight fabrics and eliminates punch weight measurements. The unique measurement method, which provides precise results on machine halt or up to full speed, allows to use the same technique on the laboratory system Fabric INSPECTOR V3. Using this features already for incoming quality control of fabrics, completes the system with detailed visualization and reporting - prior to production and for process tracing with tolerance bands. For more details please contact: JĂźrgen Jerzembeck Head of Marketing +49 177 555 8241 Juergen.Jerzembeck@setex-germany.com 421

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

CamCOUNT V3_PR

Measuring and controlling stitch count for knitted and weave fabric with Cam COUNT V3 features reliable fabric dimensions on constant fabric weight.


NEWS

Suessen at ITM 2016 in Istanbul We from SUESSEN exhibit our products during ITM Istanbul to demonstrate the competence in handling and processing natural and man-made-fibres within the ring- and rotor spinning process.

TwistPlus® is a false twist unit for ring spinning machines with EliTe®CompactSet. Twist can be reduced resulting in corresponding increase of production and quality.

SUESSEN Show Highlight Exhibits The reputed SUESSEN HP-GX 3010RPT Top Weighting Arm replaces pneumatic top arm systems on ring spinning machines reusing the given top roller equipment. On an Open-End drafting model we will present our SpinBox SQ Modernisation, equipped with well-known SUESSEN Premium Parts Spinning Components such as ProFiL®Rotors, ProFiL®Brake Pads, TorqueStop, SOLIDRING, Fibre Channel... and the new Premium Parts products: PS7 TwinDisc- "P"ower "S"aving "7" mm show a reduced width of the disc and thus resulting in smaller contact surface to the rotor shaft. This guarantees significantly reduced energy consumption. EliTe®Compact Set Advanced with special features as EliTop Advanced, EliTube Advanced flip, Micramics insert, S+ lattice apron and HP-GX 3010RPT Top Weighting Arm

SUESSEN's EliTe®Compact Set is the world's most in demand compact spinning system. The new EliTe®CompactSetAdvanced impresses our customers with the innovative components and devices as the new EliTopAdvanced with EliSpring®, EliTube Advanced flip, Micramics insert and S+ lattice apron making the system even more attractive for our customers and more competitive in the market...

The Twist Trap Navel creates additional false twist in the zone of highest spinning tension - within the rotor - when spinning knitting yarn of cotton in the range of Ne 18 to Ne 40, achieving production increase of 5% to 15% by reducing the twist multiplier without increasing the rotor speed. SUESSEN Premium Parts also provides Modernizations Packages as Trash Channel, CharbonFibre Rod, SRK to SRZ Modernisation, Package Cradle Shock Absorber.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Suvin to devise a Textile Strategy for Afghanistan With Suvin signing an international project with Afghanistan for development of Cotton Value Chain in Afghanistan, there is one more feather in the Suvin's Cap in terms of international projects. Comprehensive Agriculture and Rural Development Facility (CARD-F) is an agriculture & rural development programme of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. CARD-F aims to increase rural employment, income and business opportunities through the design, 422

facilitation and implementation of commercially viable agricultural value chain. These are further supplemented with infrastructure projects in the target provinces of Afghanistan. CARD-F seeks to empower rural communities and strengthen their economic standing through design and implementation of comprehensive and inclusive sets of development interventions. As a model of cross-ministry collaboration, CARD-F works under the patronage of an Inter- Ministerial Committee (IMC) which consist of various ministries. March - April 2016


NEWS Textile industry in Afghanistan is yet to pick off. Apart from few ginning mills, there is no much presence of any other textile value chain. Most of textile & apparel requirement is taken care by imports from other countries mainly Pakistan. Though the cotton production in Afghanistan is adequate, most of cotton is exported to Pakistan due to lack of Textile Industry presence in Afghanistan. In order to establish commercially viable cotton value chain & create more sources of employment in Afghanistan, it is needed to map right strategy. Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO of Suvin Advisors says, "We are extremely proud to bag such a prestigious international project which will create Suvin's strong mark in international Textile Industry. With past experience in devising strategy for various countries, Suvin is sure to adopt right strategy which will help Afghanistan to identify underlying opportunities with higher success rate. To start with, team of experts from Suvin has assisted Afghanistan delegates to understand Textile Value Chain starting from Ginning to Garmenting as well as backward integration of extraction of cotton seeds to oil refinery. Then they have been exposed toIndian Textile Industry to under-

stand the sector in brief where they got the opportunity to meet industry leaders, plant heads, various authorities& research bodies. The next step would be visit of team of experts from Suvin to Afghanistan to carry out 360 degree market research to assess existing situation in Afghanistan in terms of raw material availability, infrastructure and government policies to frame right strategy. With 13 international assignments& 215 assignments in PAN India, Suvin would like to assist the industry in meeting the dynamic demands of the rapidly expanding global and domestic industry at competitive levels.With its profound knowledge base & strong support of internationally trained consultants, Suvin will work towards sustainable growth of Textile Industry. Their key strengths will be always the priority to customer needs, ground-breaking ideas, market oriented approach, scientific project planning & execution and result oriented practical solutions which give them upper hand over their competitors. Suvin is confident to handhold Afghanistan Textile Industry for successful implementation of the project.

The latest generation of the USTER®TESTER 6-C800 sets new standards A must for every filament yarn producer

The new USTER®TESTER 6 opens up a whole new world of quality for filament yarn producers, with superb new sensor technology and innovative features aimed at right-first-time production. For the first time spinners benefit from a built-in Knowledge Based System and data about twist two of many reasons for a safe investment. For proper filament yarn evenness testing, only sensors with the highest sensitivity, accuracy and reliability can provide the precision data required. The new USTER®TESTER 6-C800 meets that description and more, with purpose-designed sensors which will set unique standards in this sector, making it an essential equipment in the laboratory of every filament yarn producer. March - April 2016

Sensor power, for guaranteed quality The new digital Capacitive Sensor CC of the USTER®TESTER 6-C800 offers higher accuracy and reliability than ever before. The USTER name and renowned Swiss accuracy are the guarantors of consistent and precise measurement. The new Capacitive Sensor has the power to assure filament producers that 423

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The latest generation of the USTER®TESTER 6C800 sets new standards with powerful sensors and targeted innovations


NEWS their yarn quality will be right first time, every time. The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 also offers several completely new features to assist filament quality monitoring. A unique automatic twist scan facility makes twister settings easier. Measurement results for the famous USTER® value CVm are presented as easy-reference graphics, with diagrams, spectrograms and histograms. These cover inert and half-inert values, as well as cut-length results. USTER know-how is also built in, accessible through the new Knowledge Based System (KBS). This enables users to trace the cause of quality problems on the spinning machine quickly, without the need for extra settings or input from the machine supplier. A single click on the spectrogram display brings up the defective component on the screen. The KBS saves time, as well as improving quality, avoiding expensive claims.

Easy operation, easy investment choice Designed-in ergonomics make it simple, even for untrained operators, to tackle any potential quality issues with confidence. The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 has top-quality graphical user interface, with an intuitive touchscreen monitor. It means the lab operatives can stay focused on test results, promoting higher efficiency and optimum user satisfaction - while the decision-makers can be sure of a wise investment choice with the USTER®TESTER 6-C800. Easy operation, easy investment choice Designed-in ergonomics make it simple, even for untrained operators, to tackle any potential quality issues with confidence. The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 has top-quality graphical user interface, with an intuitive touchscreen monitor. It means the lab operatives can stay focused on test results, promoting higher efficiency and optimum user satisfaction - while the decision-makers can be sure of a wise investment choice with the USTER®TESTER 6-C800. For more details please contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91 Fax +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

French Machinery @ ITM 2016 France is the 6th exporter of textile machinery worldwide and Turkey is its second most important market. ITM is the leading textile machinery fair in Turkey. Hubert TRETSCH (Superba's marketing manager), President of the Promotion Committee of the French Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (UCMTF), will be at ITM Istanbul June 1-4. He states, "Our tradition of R & D associated with our long term partnerships with our clients explains why France is exporting around one billion Euros worth of textile machinery each year." Eventhough there are many opportunities to meet the Turkish customers on 424

their own premises or at such fair as Itma's, he considers ITM a major opportunity. "ITM is a major regional event and we look forward to meet there our long time customers as well as new ones from Turkey and surrounding countries. Our clients and we share the same goal: be reliable long term partners for our customers. We are not looking for short term profits but to make our companies stronger and stronger to seize the markets opportunities and be able to absorb the difficult years. We are mainly SME's, often family owned, leaders or co-leaders in their markets. This is why we understand each other so well with our Turkish customers who are real entrepreneurs". March - April 2016


NEWS

More information on the French textile machinery manufacturers can be found on the portal www.ucmtf.com NSC Fibre To Yarn Hall 3 Booth 318A with SAMOTEKS NSC Fibre to Yarn continues to develop and propose Tow To Top lines with the model S200 of stretch breaker followed by the new model of defelter rebreaker model D5GC40 and GC40 chain gill. As finisher m/c, the FMV41/42 vertical rubbing frame takes place.

of experience in Airlay technology Laroche will notably introduce the new AIRFELT with "RESINFELT" option, and the latest innovations in used clothes recycling processes. LAROCHE has been a strong partner to many major Turkish companies in the nonwoven and recycling industries for more than 30 years. LAROCHE provides a full range of engineering, development and support services for turnkey projects. In Cours-La Ville - France, a 2000 m² technical center equipped with one Airfelt with "Resinfelt" option and 2 "Flexiloft" Airlays with needle loom and thermobonding oven, allows to test and prove the technical solutions on industrial lines. Customers are welcome to use these facilities to develop their new products.

Recently, NSC Fibre To Yarn has installed semi-worsted lines with SW35 carding m/c (2.5 m or 3.5 m wide), manufactured by N. Schlumberger followed by preparation lines consisting of chain gills model GC 40 and finishers m/c model FMV41/42.

The company's sales, service and spare parts teams follow up each customer throughout the life time of the equipment. With 2 manufacturing plants and after sales support, LAROCHE serves highly satisfied customers in more than 70 countries.

New: NSC offers to modernize recycling lines for acrylic fibres or blended ones by introducing its wellknown combing ERA between card and gills. The contribution of the combing ERA is economically essential according to 4 points of view: production: 1 ton per day in 3 deniers (3 shifts). cleanliness: 25% of neps less compared with PB family m/c. energy consummation: equipment with economic motors. reduced consummation of spare parts owing to a new design of kinematic.

SUPERBA Hall 2 Booth 214 SUPERBA, a member of the Vandewiele group of companies since July 2015, will be present at ITM in Istanbul in on a common booth under the Vandewiele roof.

NSC Fibre to Yarn is honored to have numerous Turkish customers with whom the machinery manufacturer can improve the machines and adapt them to each customer's needs. In order to give the best service in Turkey, an organization of a spare parts have been set up in Gaziantep with the BILGE/Automation Company. LAROCHE Hall 3 Booth 302 With close to a century of experience in the difficult art of textile processes, LAROCHE offers high quality, efficient and proven solutions and provides turnkey solutions from sales, engineering, manufacturing and worldwide services. At ITM, LAROCHE will show a full range of products made from their latest technologies. After 20 years March - April 2016

SUPERBA, already mastering the sophisticated spacedyeing technique for years, will show their latest machine type MCD3. This new version is able to continuously dye a bundle of 72 yarns, with a production of up to 280Kgs/h combined with a TVP3 line and up to 400Kgs/h with a DL5 line with a range of 6 spot colors plus 1 base shade. Thanks to its unique high-speed piezo-electric linear actuator technology, the machine offers a wide range of spot patterns, from short-space (20mm) to extra-long-space (150m), under the control of a powerful pattern creation software (Yarndraw3).The new MCD3 also permits a new style of space-dyed yarn thanks to its exclusive bi-color technology, offering the carpet designer a wider range of possibilities: MCD3 bi-color space-dyed rugs will be shown at ITM. The new version of the famous TVP3 heat-setting line is providing many improvements and ergonomic, such as the MLU multi-laying unit with its new MF400 frieze box. This laying unit will also be exhibited on the stand at ITM to demonstrate the ability to switch from straight-set to frieze mode within minutes, instead of 2 hours with the previous equipment. The 425

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

At ITM, the textile and carpet industrialists will be shown the latest technical innovations by the French teams. The stability of these teams allows them to go well beyond the purely technical and address the long term objectives of their customers.


NEWS latest version of the MF400 frieze box integrated inside the MLU also enables to produce a new style of frieze yarn with very even waves and offers the electronic control of the friezing from very light to strong frieze effect. DOLLFUS & MULLER Hall 12 Booth 1202 C Dollfus & Muller, founded in 1811, manufactures endless felts and dryer belts for the textile finishing factories. The company will exhibit: compacting sanfor felts for knit finishing sanforizing felts for denim and woven fabrics finishing printing dryer belts for textile printing sublimation blankets for transfer printing.

All technical drawings for manufacturing of spare parts are compliant with the genuine ones. An acknowledged know-how with a rich experience in the field of covering, texturizing, twisting. The company is also a covering spindles manufacturer with a range for bobbin from 400 grs to 2000 grs and rotation speed from 1000 to 30000 rpm. PETIT and its agent OBEN INNOVATEKS have been actively preparing their ITM offer to meet their customers' needs and propose them the right solutions.

Dollfus & Muller will introduce, at ITM, its improved compacting sanfor felt for knit finishing with major evolutions compared with the other products in order to serve better the dyeing houses. The compacting sanfor felt quality brings a special care to the fabrics thanks to its smoothest surface, has an excellent guiding and the best compacting rate in relations with its new exclusive compacting sanfor felt design.

AESA Hall 3 Booth 315B A worldwide leader in air engineering for all textile production processes for natural fibers as well as for man made fibers in all different stages: spinning, knitting, weaving, hosiery, nonwovens, dyeing and finishing. The company is specialized in air-conditioning and waste collection systems for textile factories.

The Dollfus & Muller's sanforizing palmer felts are ideal for Denim producers. At ITM, the company will show its proven durable Sanfor felts. The Dollfus & Muller's Sanfor felts are recognised by most of the major machine makers as the best felts.

The overall energy saving is becoming a competitiveness factor. The AESA air conditioning plants are contributing in a big way to this goal. For spinning factories, the state of the art is to drive all fans and pumps motors through inverters. For weavings, the latest development called WEAVE DIRECT is capable to reach up to 50 % energy savings. This is possible thanks to a dedicated supply air ducting system where unique and localized WDB type diffusers are placed above each loom. Like this the moisture needed for a good output is conveyed in the right quantity to the right place above the loom, and the overall air requirement can be reduced drastically.

Furthermore, Dollfus & Muller will display its new durable printing dryer belt quality TAMIP HT 500 NR. This print dryer belt is the most durable printing dryer belt specially designed for pigment printing of bed sheeting. Dollfus & Muller will as well display its exclusive print open mesh belt specially designed for the production of fine fabrics, scarves, flags. These belts have special non marking surfaces which can avoid as well the particles on the back side. Dollfus & Muller has the widest range of printing dryer belts and the strongest dryer belts. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

PETIT has a consequent and permanent storage capacity of spare parts with more than 20 000 references multi brand for fine count textile machines especially ICBT and looms for Saurer Diederichs.

Dollfus & Muller staff will be available for its costumers at the exhibition together with their local compacting sanfor felt representative Mr Ali CETIN from CETIN MAKINE (LĂźleburgaz - Kirklareli). The company gives excellent machinery services and keeps stock locally in Turkey of its compacting sanfor felts. PETIT Hall 3 Booth 310B PETIT is the specialist in the trade of accessories for textile machines. 426

Last but not least the DIGIVENT control system, with latest AESA logic is capable to have even more stable room condition between running and not running high speed machines. This achievement is possible with AESA's more than 50 years of experience in this specialized field and is assuring better productivity to AESA's clients and better yarn and fabric quality to the end user. AESA recognizes Turkey as a major market and a special organization has been set up to give the Turkish market the best service: agent, direct office, etc‌after sales: AESA has a liaison office in Turkey, and Ikiler Tekstil has been the agent for the last several years. March - April 2016


NEWS

Value -Enhansing News from Rieter at the ITM 2016 Rieter is presenting new machine generations for preparation and end spinning as well as appropriate spare parts, is showing components for the economical manufacture of high quality yarns in addition to After Sales services and is demonstrating optimization possibilities for spinning mills with the assistance of the so-called "Internet of Things".

E 86 Comber

The following products and services are included amongst the exhibits: ◆ The new Rieter combing set - E 36 / E 86. ◆ The new K 46 compact spinning machine. ◆ The The extended SPIDERweb mill control system with six new modules, two of which are linked to the Internet. SPIDERweb is a groundbreaking step in the use of the "Internet of Things" for optimising the spinning mill. ◆ Innovative spare parts and conversion packages as well as After Sales services. These range from technology support across maintenance audits and repair services through to customer training. Rieter machines and systems remain permanently competitive due to retrofit packages and After Sales complete solutions. ◆ Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen are presenting components and systems for the economic manufacture of high quality yarns. The focus lies on the STARLET plus traveller and the Easy Top clothing, the high-performance spindles with CROCO doff and the ring spinning compact system EliTe®CompactSet Advanced.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The yarn production should be highly flexible, productive and economic. This requires an optimal coordination of the machines from the fibre and the spinning preparation up to the end spinning process. Rieter has a high system competence and offers these processes and the know-how from one single source. Alongside valuable systems and convincing technology, customers also profit from a supportive partnership. On this basis, Rieter wants to help spinning mills to achieve even greater success. K 46 Compact Spinning Machine

At the ITM 2016 in Istanbul from 1st to 4th June, Rieter is presenting highlights from the current product range. All three business units are showing their products and service innovations for complete systems, spinning preparation and end spinning process under their trademarks Rieter, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen. March - April 2016

For further information, please contact: Rieter Management Ltd Media Relations Cornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com 427


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LIVA hosts an evening of fashion LIVA hosts an evening of fashion graced by Chess Grandmaster ViswanathanAnand and also witnessed an Innovative Sand Art, Fabric Dance & a glittering Fashion Walk The evening of the first ever LIVA Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) Confluence organized on 20th May, 2016 at Sahara, Mumbai by LIVA, the natural fluid fashion fabric was full of colors, fashion &vibrance.

The LAPF Confluence concluded with popular Sand art artist Nitish Bharti (India's Got Talent fame) who displayed LIVA's successful journey through innovative sand creations. Performances by dancers showcasing peculiar 'Fabric Dance' proved to be one of the key highlights of the evening. LIVA is a natural fluid fashion fabric, from Birla Cellulose - a part of Aditya Birla Group. LIVA is created from natural cellulosic fibres and transforms the way you wear garments, giving them the most liquid and soft drape. LIVA is the preferred ingredient fabric brand for leading women's brands including BIBA, Lifestyle, Shopper Stop, Van Heusen, Pantaloons, Allen Solly FBB, Fusion Beats, Maxx, Park Avenue, Wills Lifestyle and many more in over 140 cities and around 2000 stores. Currently more than 7 million garments carry LIVA tags. About 900 stores adorned the LIVA visual merchandise and training sessions conducted across India.

ViswanathanAnand Addressing the Audience at LAPF Confluence Hosted by LIVA

The event witnessed the presence of world renowned Chess Grandmaster ViswanathanAnand where he gave an inspirational speech on 'What it Takes to Be a World Champion'.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He shared his journey right from getting introduced to chess at the age of 6 till becoming the Grandmaster. He said, "I had to wait for 3 years to achieve my goal. I kept missing winning the Grandmaster title consecutively for 2 years but I was determined about my game; and then I managed to bag the title with sheer patience & tenacity. Similarly, you'll have many quiet years during your struggle, but there will be a day where you would see your efforts paying off well."

Fabric Dance at LAPF Confluence Hosted by LIVA

ViswanathanAnand is known for his strategy to win with his effortless moves & confidence in his game which is what the brand LIVA stands for. The event also saw a fashion walk by stunning models donning LIVA outfits. Spectacular colorful styles which are flowy& fluid dominated this fashion parade followed by a rhythmic fashion show at the Confluence. LAPF Connect was launched by Mr. Dilip Gaur, MD, Grasim Industries. It isone of its kind digital platform for viscose based textile value chain partners bridgingthe gap between the buyers & sellers across the globe. 428

Models Strike a Pose During the Fashion Walk at LAPF Confluence Hosted by LIVA March - April 2016


NEWS

Launch of LAPF Connect at LAPF Confluence Hosted by LIVA

Models Walk the Ramp at the Fashion Walk Held at LAPF Confluence hosted by LIVA

For further queries contact Fountainhead MKTG PR: Vanishka- 9820048555, AmoliHindlekar - 9664699127, NidhiKhandelwal - 9773519454

LIVA brand set to double its store presence to 4,000 outlets this year

Having caught the imagination of the designers and top retail brand, LIVA -fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, has embarked upon a larger plan to grow further in the domestic market to 4,000 stores from the prevailing 2,000 stores. Speaking at Confluence - a LIVA Accredited Partner Forum platform - Mr.Dilip Gaur, MD of Grasim Industries and Business Director pulp and fibre division, Aditya Birla Group said, "In Spring Summer 2016, LIVA has presence in over 2000 stores across 140 cities with 7 million garments tagged to the brand and we intend to double the outlets to 4000 stores in the next two season. The growth of the brand is accelerating with each season. With the launch of LIVA CONNECT, a b2b digital platform we aim to give access to the unorganised sector and ensure that we widen and deepen the market at the same time." The Confluence conference saw presence of over 600 top industry players from across the country to deliberate various trends and options to grow the viscose pie in the domestic market. "Currently, the per capita consumption of viscose fibre is 0.2 kg in India while the globally it is 0.75 kg and the same is twice in China at 1.5 kg. Globally, manmade fibres have growing faster than cotton, with visMarch - April 2016

cose based fibre growing at 27% CAGR while normal textiles have grown at 5% CAGR over the past few years. Since the domestic market has been stagnant, we intend the portal to be an ideal platform for the trade to come on board to drive the eco-friendly vision of LIVA fabric," Gaur said. Birla Cellulose has also been working on speciality fibre within the viscose segment that accounted for 36% of the total portfolio in the just concluded year compared to 28% in the previous year, Gaur said referring to the innovation initiatives undertaken within the company.The rising influence of LIVA in the organised retail sector would aid the non-branded segment with trickled down effect and create the necessary consumer pull and awareness, he said. At the conference, Narendra Kumar, renowned fashion designer pointed out that the demand for high fashion apparel is not restricted to metro cities only but also in Tier-II and Tier-III cities like Patna and Kanpur and LIVA has the potential to satisfy this growing demand. LIVA is focussed on women's clothing - western, ethnic, fusion wears, leggings, palazzos, harem pants, stoles, etc and has ambitious plans to exponentially ramp up the women's wear sale in India based on the inherent potential it envisages. After leggings, LIVA's has forayed into sarees based on consumer insights with more developments in more categories in the coming months. 429

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

LIVA CONNECT launched to bring unorganised and organised sector across industry under one roof in order to drive per capita viscose fibre consumption in apparel retail.


NEWS LAPF Confluence witness participation from the Who's who of the textile and clothing industry in India. The participation was enriching and extensive value exchange program.

The Panelist at the LAPF Forum

Mr.Dilip Gaur, MD Grasim Industries

For further queries contact Fountainhead MKTG PR: Vanishka - 9820048555 AmoliHindlekar - 9664699127/ NidhiKhandelwal- 9773519454

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) (an ISO 9001:2008 certified association)

Membership Fees Sr. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. * Plus add 15.00

Type of Membership Corporate Member Patron Member Life Time Member Overseas Member Life Time to Patron Member % Service Tax

One Time* Fee INR 15,000 INR 3,200 INR 2,100 USD 100 INR 1,300

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/application-form or contact respective TAI Unit For more details contact.

The Textile Association (India) 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com Website : www.textileassociationindia.org 430

March - April 2016


NEWS

ColorJet to Bring Paradigm Shift in Home Furnishing Industry at Heimtextil 2016 ◆ ◆

FABJET GRAND especially targeted for customised home furnishings textile segment Uses all environmental friendly aqueous based inks whether Reactive, Pigment or Disperse Directly prints on cotton and also polyester-based fabrics

ColorJet Group, the biggest and only Indian manufacturer of digital printers in India will bring a paradigm shift to the Indian home furnishing industry at Heimtextil 2016 in hall 11, stall no H06 by introducing its wider width direct-to-fabric digital home textile printer FABJET GRAND which is suitable to print on all inks, viz. Reactive, Pigment or Disperse. ColorJet will showcase the live demonstration of home textile printing on products like bedsheets, pillow cover, curtains, table covers, etc on the FABJET GRAND. Exhibitors are encouraged and invited to witness the live demonstration and see the magic of home textile digital printing unfold at the ColorJet stall. The FABJET GRAND is especially targeted at the customised home furnishings textile segment, particularly for producers of home décor products like curtains, bed covers and sofa covers to directly print on cotton and polyester-based fabrics and use environmental friendly aqueous based Pigment, Reactive or Disperse inks. The printer delivers high productivity, since it has two heads per colour in staggered position, which increases production and also has an extremely high practical printing speed, enabling high daily printing volumes and outstanding runability for overnight printing without banding and colour deflection. The FABJET GRAND features a proprietary AIVC technology for consistent print performance by maintaining constant jetting conditions even in varying environmental conditions, and offers excellent print life with vivid eye-catching long-life colours for unique and richly finished fabric. It has an automated feed and a take-up system, synchronized with tension bars for long unattended print runs on various types of fabric. It operates via a pneumatics control-based tension-bar on media feed and take up, to ensure consistent tension on fabric and March - April 2016

adjusts automatically based on the type of fabrics being used. The FABJET GRAND also has an automatic wiping system which wipes excess ink and dust from the print head surface. The Capping Station prevents inks from drying within the print head when printer is not in use for a long time, and also protects the head from dust accumulation. It is further equipped with advanced colour management engine and colour processing tools which ensure faster processing of files leading to saving time and increasing productivity, and also has user-friendly and easy-to-use colour controls to manage colours. There are advanced dither patterns for photo-realistic output, fully customized printer settings for enhanced print results, smoother gradations and vibrant colours for superior print quality and in-built ICC profiles for various media and print modes. ColorJet is the only manufacturer that offers and sells machines as a solution, along with RIP colour management, ink usage, ICC profile and training for application development or various applications so that a machine can be used across different markets. Mr. Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at ColorJet Group said, "Apart from the price being very competitive, since our digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in India itself, buyers of our machines are eligible for various subsidies and benefits offered by the Government of India under EPCG & TUF schemes." For more information please contacts : Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications India Cell : +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email : arun@taruruscomm.net

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Smarth Bansal Brand Manager ColorJet Group India Cell : +91 98102-39602 Email : smarth@colorjetgroup.com www.colorjetgroup.com 431


NEWS

TAI organizing WTC-2 After the grand success of World Textile Conference 2011 and very successful first-ever overseas 1st Global Textile Congress recently concluded at Bangkok, Thailand, The Textile Association (India) is organizing World Textile Conference-2 during 16th& 17thSeptember, 2016 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Domestic Airport, Mumbai (India). This mega event will be indeed 2nd of its kind, to play leading role and to enhance its global image. WTC-2 will focus on manufacturing strength of Textile Industry in Far East including China, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, Korea& Japan etc. and there would be lot of deliberations by speakers from all these countries who will speak on variety of subjects. World Textile Conference-2 would be again truly international conference which would be two days conference will address various issues pertaining to the textile industry globally.

There will also have expert talks on today's issues like TPP, RCEP where top experts will speak. Apart from this there are speakers from Garment Industry, US Retail Industry will participate in the conference along with E-Commerce Giants from India and abroad. This conference will be a landmark conference and will meet truly the objective of the Textile Associations (India). This will also provide an opportunity to the global participants to get an insight about the international textile scenario of various countries which in turn will highly benefit to textile industry across the world. Most of the participants will also have an opportunity to meet buyers and sellers from various parts of the world. We will also provide stalls where the sponsors can display their products for Global audience.

We will have eminent Global Speakers from all over the world and have planned to invite people from 20 countries or so. Also efforts will be made to invite from Pakistan, Sri Lanka, USA, Australia, South Africa &, Bangladesh in addition to the speakers invited for 1st Global Textile Congress, Thailand, in order to make bigger success and to bring more issues of Global Textile Industry on our platform.

Conference will be attended by leading Industry captains, professionals, members of AEPC, CITI, Garment Manufacturers Association, Central and State Government ministers and supported by officials. About 700 professional delegates from India and abroad are expected to participate in the conference.

Following Global Associations from China, Korea, Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh and Pakistan as agreed to participate in the conference during my recent visit to China & Korea.

Organizing Committee of the conference has invited to be the part of the conference as delegate and also requested to support the conference by accepting to be Partners, by inserting the advertisement in the Souvenir, by booking a stall in the exhibition and by encouraging maximum friends to register as delegates.

◆ ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

participate and this will provide a great opportunity to know global facts of textile industry.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Taiwan Textile Federation China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association Vietnam Cotton & Spinning Association Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporter Association Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association

There will be also a panel discussions where all the leaders of these associations will participate and there will be a roundtable meet for one and a half hour where all these leaders along with Indian leaders will 432

This is a great opportunity to show the strength and creativity to the Textile Industry. Please don't miss this opportunity, so book the dates. All details are available on TAI website www.textileassociationindia.org. The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com March - April 2016


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Subject

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R.V. Adivarekar

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M.D. Teli

2

70

R.V. Adivarekar M.D. Teli R.V. Adivarekar

3 4 5

147 214 290

M.D. Teli

6

358

M. D. Teli & Sanket P. Valia M. D. Teli & PintuPandit

2 5

28 293

M. D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia, Maruti Kamble & Dhanashri Kolamnkar

6

367

Suman Pant & Kavita Chaudhary

3

157

Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra & Kamal KantiGoswami

4

217

Mosmi Rupareliya, Namrita Kola & Ashutosh Mairal O. A. Hakeim, M. M. El Zawahry, Nermin M. Aly, N.S. El-Hawary, H.A. Diab & Ali Marwa A. Arijit Chakraborty, Rosalind Chakraborty, Subrata Minj, Biplab Paul & Krishna Gopal Mondal

2

86

2

90

3

149

2

102

Sneha Khairnar, Pramod Raichurkar, 3 Pranjali Chandurkar & M. Ramachandran

161

Dipanjan Kumar Dey

1

24

● HANDLOOM: ◆ Product Diversification of Handloom Khesh Fabric

Lina Chakraborty

5

304

● HOME TEXTILES: ◆ Analysis of Human Physiological Comfort Properties of Commercial Hospital Bed Linen Fabrics

P. Kandhavadivu, R. Rathinamoorthy & R. Surjit

3

165

● EDITOTIAL: ◆ Engineering Textiles to keep us healthier and happy nurturing a healthy, safe life through yoga and comfort fabrics ◆ You become successful by helping others become successful … An Ethiopian experience ◆ It is time to feel good … Diwali is here ◆ A ray of hope for glooming textile industry ◆ Make in India: through a textile technologist's perspective¢ ◆ Let us make Technical Textiles in India ● DYEING: ◆ Colouration of Wool Fibre with Natural Dyes ◆ A Novel Natural Source SterculiaFoetida Fruit Shell WasteasColourant and Antibacterial Agent for Cotton ◆ Development of using Solid and Compound Shades on Wool Fabric using Natural Dyes ● FIBRE: ◆ Comparative Analysis of Hand of Bamboo-Silk and Cotton-Silk Kota Doria ◆ Microscopic, IR-Spectroscopic and Thermal Analysis on Biodegradability of Jute ● FINISHING: ◆ Silicone Finish for Enhancing Properties of Polyester ◆ Anti-Static and Functional Properties of Asminosi lsesquioxane Oligomer Treated and Dyed Fabrics ◆ Antibacterial Finishing of Knitted Cotton Fabric Using Chitosan-citrate ● GARMENTING: ◆ Effect of Various Process Variables on Button Pullout Strength of Buttons ◆ Role of Merchandiser to Optimize Manufacturing Cost ● GENERAL: ◆ The Factors Affecting the Purchase Intentions of Young Generation for Branded Apparels

March - April 2016

Authors

Shelly Khanna &Amandeep Kaur

433

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION VOLUME 76 - MAY 2015 TO APRIL 2016 SUBJECT INDEX


NEWS ● MANAGEMENT:

◆ Studies in General Acceptance and Efficacy of Baby Diapers Corporate Social Responsibilities in Textile and Apparel Industry

M. D. Teli, Prateeti Ugale & Sanket Valia Lalit Jajpura, Sushil Kumar & Jai Veer

3

172

5

307

● MEDICAL TEXTILES: ◆ Studies in General Acceptance and Efficacy of Baby Diapers

M. D. Teli, A. Mallick & V. Warge

1

9

M. D. Teli, Aranya Mallick & Aakansha Srivastava C R Meena, Minakshi Sanjay, Nidhi Dhaneesh & Nikitha S.

4

235

6

376

● PRINTING: ◆ Traditional Printed and Resist Textiles of Gujarat - an Overview

Madhu Sharan, Vandana Chauhan & Hinal Kaystha

2

78

● PROCESSING: ◆ Printing of Cotton with Natural Dyes using Pre and Meta Mordanting Techniques

M. D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia & Chandni Pradhan

1

23

Mamatha G. Hegde

1

15

R. N. Narkhedkar & A. B. Bagawan

1

5

Dr. Eng. Ibrahim A. Elhawary & Mohamed Y. Naeim

6

361

V. C. Mudnoor, R. P. Sawant, A. V. Mahajan & A. L. Gulve S. Kumaravel & A. Venkatachalam

1

19

4

229

M. Ramchandran, Sahas Bansal & Pramod Raichurkar

6

372

Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M.M. Mourad, Ali AliHebeish & Nermin M. Aly Manjunath Burji, P. V. Kadole, M. Y. Gudiyawar & B. M. Patil

4

222

5

298

R. N. Yadav

1

28

V. K. Gupta

2

107

R. N. Yadav

3

185

Anju Tulshyan

4

243

S. Srinivasan

5

315

Ashok Athalye

6

383

● OTHERS: ◆ Parameters of Choice of Sanitary Napkins -A Techno-commercial Survey ◆ KasargodSarees : The Threads of Tradition

● SMART TEXTILE: ◆ An Overview on the Growth and Prospectus of Intelligent Textiles and Clothing ● SPINNING: ◆ Influence of Rotor Machine Process Parameters on Rotor Yarn Quality ◆ The process Dynamics of Egyptian Cotton G-86 with a Compact Spinning Machine ● TECHNICAL TEXTILES: ◆ Application of Textile Materials in Earth-quake Resistance Constructions ◆ Development of Nylon/Carbon Nanotube Multilayered Fabric for Protective Application ◆ Scrutiny of Jute Fiber poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) Resin Reinforced Polymeric Composite

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

● TESTING: ◆ Comparison of Handle Properties of Cotton Fabrics Wove from Ring and Compact Spun Yarns from Different Pneumatic Compacting Systems ◆ Studies on the Physical Properties of Spandex / Polyester Air Covered Yarns ● TEXPERIENCE: ◆ Texperience-Humidification Plants - Some Operational Norms ◆ Texperience - Enhancement in the Profits through Structured Cost Reduction Mechanism ◆ Texperience - Discipline and Emerging Trends in Management ◆ Texperience - Fashion Careers: finding the right fit for you ◆ Texperience - Some Suggestions on Cost Control inTextile Processing Unit ◆ Texperience - Decorative Textiles 434

March - April 2016


NEWS ● TEXNOTE : ◆ Chapter 6: Wool based scaffolds

Pallavi Modiwale, Rachana Shukla & Ravindra Adivarekar Santosh Biranje, Pallavi Modiwale, Rachana Shukla & Ravindra Adivarekar Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, Ravindra Adivarekar Trupti Sutar, Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla & R.V.Adivarekar Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, & R.V. Adivarekar Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, & R.V.A divarekar

◆ Chapter 7: Textile scaffolds as tissue adhesives ◆ Chapter 8: Textile Scaffolds for Skin Recovery and Replacement ◆ Chapter 9: Textile Scaffolds as wound healing bandages ◆ Chapter 10: Textile scaffolds for bonerecovery and replacement ◆ Chapter 11: Textile scaffolds in Dentistry

1

30

2

111

3

191

4

246

5

318

6

385

FORM IV (See Rule 8) Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION :

The Textile Association (India), Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028.

2. Periodicity of Publication

:

Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year)

3. Printer's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri Ashok Bagwe Indian Sundaram Art Printing Press 12, WadalaUdyogBhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala, Mumbai - 400 031.

4. Publisher's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri J.B. Soma Indian 7-A/203, New DindoshiGiridarshan CHS. Ltd. New Dindoshi MHADA Colony, Near NNP No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 065

5. Editor's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Dr. Ravindra V. Adivarekar Indian Dept. of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019

6. Name and address of individuals who own the newspaper and partners holding more than 1% of the total capital

:

The Textile Association (India), Central Office 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road, ShivajiPark, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Place of Publication

I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. Mumbai 1st March 2016

March - April 2016

(Sd/-) J.B. SOMA Publisher

435


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

RESULTS FOR ATA PART I - PASSED/ATAHE CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015 Centre / Result

PASS

ATAHE

Ahmedabad

205/02, 2015/03, 2015/06, 2015/07, 2015/08

2015/01, 2015/05

Bhilwara

2015/11

2015/10, 2015/12, 2015/13,

Ichalkaranji

NIL

2015/20, 2015/21, 2015/23

Mumbai

NIL

2015/30

Total

Registered

Appeared

Passed

ATAHE

PASS %

17

16

06

09

37.50

RESULTS FOR ATA PART II- DECEMBER, 2015 Centre / Result

PASS

ATAHE

Ahmedabad

2015/501, 2015/503, 2015/04, 2015/05, 2015/06, 2015/07

2015/02

Bhilwara

Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report

Ichalkaranji

Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report

Mumbai

Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report

Total

2015/522

Registered

Appeared

Passed

ATAHE

PASS %

15

15

06

02

40.00

RESULTS OF ATA PART III - PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015 Centre

Yarn Manufacture

Fabric Manufacture

Textile Wet Processing

Ahmedabad

2015/602, 2015/603, 2015/606

2015/704

NIL

Knitting & Garment Manufacture NIL

Bhilwara

NIL

NIL

NIL

NIL

Ichalkaranji

NIL

2015/710 **

Mumbai

NIL

NIL

NIL

NIL

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

*Part II not completed Candidate

Yarn Manufacture

Fabric Manufacture

Textile Wet Processing

Knitting & Garment Mfg.

Total

Registered

07

06

NIL

NIL

13

Appeared

07

06

NIL

NIL

13

Passed

03

02

NIL

NIL

05

Pass 38.46 % Sd/Dr. G.S. Nadiger Co-Chairman, P. A. C.

436

Sd/Haresh B. Parekh Hon. Gen. Secretary

March - April 2016


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

RESULTS FOR GMTA SECTION A/B/C PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015 Centre

Section A

Section B

Section C

Ahmedabad

2015/AHA/01

2015/AHB/03, 2015/AHB/04

Delhi

NIL

NIL

2015/AHC/01, 2015/AHC/02, 2015/AHC/03 2015/DEC/10

Ichalkaranji Indore

NIL NIL

NIL NIL

NIL NIL

TOTAL

03

05

03

Candidates

Section - A

Section -B

Section -C

TOTAL

Registered

05

07

07

19

Appeared

02

05

04

11

Passed

01

02

04

07 Pass 63.63 %

RESULTS FOR GMTA SECTION D & E PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015 Centre

Section D

Section E

Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Apparel Manufacture Indore

NIL

Candidates

2015/IND/10,

NIL 2015/IND/11

NIL

2015/DEE/01

Section - D (Fabric Manufacture)

Section -E

TOTAL

Registered

02

01

03

Appeared

02

01

03

Passed

02

01

03

Sd/Dr. G. S. Nadiger Chairman, P. A. C.

March - April 2016

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Pass 100.00 %

Sd/Haresh B. Parekh Hon. Gen. Secretary

437


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Schedule of A.T.A. Part - I, II & III December, 2016 ATA Part-I

Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.

ATA Part-II

Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.

Date

Subjects

Date

Subjects

23.12.2016

Basic Engineering Sciences

23.12.2016

Principles of Yarn Manufacture

24.12.2016

General Engineering

24.12.2016

Principles of Fabric Manufacture

25.12.2016

Textile Fibres

25.12.2016

Principles of Textile Wet Processing

26.12.2016

Elements of Textile Technology

26.12.2016

Principles of Textile Testing and Statistics

27.12.2016

Elements of Comp. and its Applications

27.12.2016

Industrial Organization and Management

ATA Part - III - Time: 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Compulsory Subjects 23.12.2016

Elements of Technical Textiles

24.12.2016

Man-Made Fibre Technology

Optional Subjects Date

Yarn Manufacture Group

Fabric Manufacture Group

Textile Wet Processing Group

Knitting & Garment Manufacture Group

25.12.2016

Process Control in Yarn Mfg.

Process Control in Fabric Mfg. Wet Processing-I

Knitting Technology

26.12.2016

Modern Yarn Manufacture

Modern Fabric Manufacture

Garment Technology

Wet Processing-II

1. Last Date for receiving applications at unit 25th July 2016. 2. Last Date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit 25th August 2016. 3. Last Date for receiving applications at the central office 25th September 2016.

Sd/Haresh B. Parekh Hon. Gen. Secretary

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sd/Dr. G. S. Nadiger Co-Chairman, P. A. C.

438

March - April 2016


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Schedule of G.M.T.A. Examination December 2016 Section-A Date

Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Subject No.& Title

Section-B Date

Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. Subject No.& Title

23.12.2016 24.12.2016 25.12.2016 26.12 2016 27.12.2016

A-1 A-2 A-3 A-4 A-5

23.12.2016 24.12.2016 25.12.2016 26.12.2016 27.12.2016

B-1 B-2 B-3 B-4 B-5

Engineering Physics Engineering Chemistry Engineering Mathematics General Engineering Professional Orientation

Section-C

Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.

Date

Subject No.& Title

23.12.2016 24.12.2016 25.12.2016 26.12.2016 27.12.2016

C-1 C-2 C-3 C-4 C-5

Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Apparel manufacture Textile Testing

Textile Fibre Science Polymer Technology Textile Engineering Mechanics Applied Statistics Data Management and Information System Section-D Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. Fabric Manufacture Text. Wet Processing

Date

Yarn Manufacture

23.12.2016

Short Staple Yarn Mfg.

Advanced Fab. Manufacture

Wet Proc-Pre Treat. Technology

Apparel & Bleaching

24.12.2016

Long Stap& other Yarn Mfg. Engg Design & Yarn Structure Process &Qual Management & Yarn Mfg Man-made Fibre Technology

Knitting Technology

Wet Proc.-Dyeing

Engg Design of Fab. Structure Process Control & Qual. Mrkt in Fab. Mfg. Fabric Structure & Design

Wet Proc-Printing & Finishing Analytical Chem. In Textiles Proce&Qual Manage

Supply Chain Mange in Apparel Mfg. Apparel Merchandising Garment Proce. Tech. Process In Wet Proce. Control& Quality Manage in Apparel Mfg.

Non-Woven Technology

ColourTehory & Col.Matching Effluent Treat & Eco Friendly Proce. Quality & Environ Merchandising

26.12.2016 27.12.2016

Optional Papers 28.12.2016 Specialty & High Performance Yarns(s) 29.12.2016 Silk Reeling & Throwing Technology 30.12.2016 Quality &Envir. System in Yarn Mfg. Systems In Fab. Mfg. Section - E Date 26.12.2016 27.12.2016

Technical Textiles Quality & Environment System in Wet Proc.

Social & Trade Compliances Garment Acces. & Fashion Forecasting Visual

Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Subject No & Title E-1 Industrial Engg& Mill Management E-2 Energy Environment & Efficiency in Textiles

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

25.12.2016

Apparel Manufacture

Optional Papers 28.12.2016 29.12.2016 30.12.2016

EOD-1 International Trade Management EOD-2 Control Systems in Textile Machines EOD-3 Entrepreneurship Development

1. Last Date for receiving applications at unit 25th July 2016. 2. Last Date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit 25th August 2016. 3. Last Date for receiving applications at the central office 25th September 2016. Sd/Dr. G.S. Nadiger Co-Chairman, P. A. C. March - April 2016

Sd/Haresh B. Parekh Hon. Gen. Secretary 439


FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

Garmek - An exhibition for Garment, Textile Machine & Accessories Date : 06th-08th August, 2016 Venue : Sanskar Kendra, Opp. NID, Paldi, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Adworld Communications, 86-D, DLF Model Town, 1st Floor, Sector-11B, Faridabad - 121 006 M. : +91-9312069048, 7065503055, 9821170104, 8090202150 E-mail : mktg@igmatexindia.com Website : www.igmatexindia.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

World Textile Conference -2 Organized by The Textile Association (India) Central Office Date : 16th &17thSeptember, 2016 Venue : Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Domestic Airport, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Hon. Gen. Secretary The Textile Association (India) 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : 91-22-2446 1145 Fax : 91-22-2447 4971 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com Website : www.textileassociationindia.org International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens (ICTN) Date : 10th-12th November, 2016 Venue : Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi Hauz Khas, New Delhi - 110 016 Contact : Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi, New Delhi - 110 016 M. : Prof. R. Alagirusamy -+91-9818133350, E-E-mail : alagiru@gmail.com M. : Dr. Apurba Das - +91-9871648134, E-mail : apurbadas65@gmail.com Fax : +91-11-2658 1103, M. : +91 9909904179 E-mail : ictn2016.iitd@gmail.com Website : www.textileconferenceiitd.com Yarn, Fabric & Accessories - Trade Show 2016 Date : 23th to 26thNovember, 2016 Venue : NSIC Exhibition Centre, Okhla, New Delhi, India Contact : Abhishek Sharma - M.: +91-9810872914 E-mail : asharma@yfatradeshow.com M. : Ankur Goel - +91-9212707924 Website : www.yfatradeshoe.com

440

The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organises International Conference on "Make in India" Date : 01st & 2nd December, 2016 Venue : Hotel The Lalit, Mumbai, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 059 India Contact : Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 86, College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguase Church, Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : 91-22-2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax : 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in Website : www.textileassociationindia.com ITME 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 03rd to 08th December, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Executive Director India ITME Society, 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No.211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021. India Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138 Fax : +91-022-2285 1578 E-mail : itme@itme-india.com Website : www.itme@itme-india.com ABROAD SDC International Design Competition in partnership with Shanghai University of Engineering Science (SUES) (The last date for submitting the design boards is Saturday, 13th August, 2016) Date : 23rd November, 2016 Venue : Shanghai, China Contact : Mrs. VaishaliDeokar Promotions and Communication Manager The society of Dyes and Colourists (Education Charity) 208, Narmada Building, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Vartak Nagar, Pokharan Road No. 1, Thane (West), Thane - 400 606 India Tel. : +91-022-65346365 M.: +91 9004975533 E-mail : sdc@sdc.org.in Website : www.sdc.org.uk

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. March - April 2016




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