e-journal - Mar-Apr '2020 by TheTextile Association (India)

WEAVING

PEER REVIEWED

Analysis of the Mechanical Properties of Kevlar 29 Woven Fabrics Doaa H. Elgohary* & M. H. Elshakankery Department of Spinning and Weaving Engineering, National Research Centre, Abstract The aim of this work was to investigate the impact of breaking load on the Kevlar 29 fabric dimensions and determined the Poisson's ratio. Based on the wide width strength test values for both directions warp and weft deformations were presented and analyzed under tensile loading. The Poisson's ratios for three different Kevlar 29 fabrics were determined using the relation between the contraction in crosswise direction and the extension strains in longitudinal direction. The relationship between the Poisson's ratio and various levels of extension exerted to the Kevlar 29 fabrics are derived in both warp and weft directions. A good investigated between the experimental results and the values of the Poisson's ratios calculated and presented. The best equation found to show its effect in various levels of extension on Poisson's ratios and respective determination correlation coefficient (R) in both fabric directions warp and weft are inspected. Keywords Breaking Load; Elongation; High Performance; Kevlar; Weave Structure.

This type of woven Kevlar fabrics with its high strength are ideal materials for use in various structural and aerospace systems, as it applied for a high energy absorption, it has the ability to resist high speed impact results in its high strength to weight ratio, which make it more efficiency than metals [6]. Aramid [poly (pphenyleneterephthalamide), [PPTA] contains the polymer chains that was linked with benzene rings and amide bonds, which support the aramid fibers with high tenacity, high modulus and toughness, that make it suitable for ballistic materials [7].

1. Introduction Technical textiles are one of the most important types which used in different textile applications that must including high performance fibers from these applications military, medical, communication and aerospace. Aramid fibers are a type of special high-performance fibers used in different fabric applications ranging from bullet-proof vests to trampolines, as it is the mostly used type of fiber in these applications [1, 2]. A number of chemical and physical bonds should be used in these types of fibers in order to transfer the stress along the fiber. In order to limit their deformation, it should have high stiffness and strength. These types of fibers can be used as reinforcing fibers in fiber-reinforced composite materials which must possess high tensile and compression strength and low specific weight [3].

In order to form a composite structure from Kevlar fibers, it can be bonded with another material or various materials. This type of Kevlar fiber is suitable for different industrial applications including body/vehicle armour, cables, brake linings and asbestos replacement [4].

KevlarÂŽ is a type of man-made synthetic fibers from a high modulus para aramid. It is an organic fiber in aromatic polyamide family [4]. It was developed and commercialized by DuPont in 1971 [5].

In textile industry application, Kevlar fibers are commonly used due to its properties such as strength, abrasion resistance, flammability resistance, very low elasticity, light weight, toughness and corrosion resistance [3]. Fabrics woven from Kevlar filaments must be in the right place to the group of technical fabrics and are flat materials with specific properties. Multifilament yarns are used for the production of Kevlar fabrics, where filaments are glued together (roving yarn) into tape shapes to ensure compression and enhanced properties of strength, evenness ...etc).

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Doaa H. Elgohary Department of Spinning and Weaving Engineering, Textile Research Division, National Research Centre, 33 El Bohouthst. (Former El Tahrir St.),Dokki, P.O.12622, Giza, Egypt. Mobile : +20 1003531623 Email : d_ego44@hotmail.com March - April 2020

441

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING value of Poisson's ratio weave type and the number of yarns per fabric. Jinyun et al [17], confirmed that the significant effect of Poisson's for knitted fabric under breaking load deformation. Also this research investigates the relation between the experimental results and values of the Poisson's ratios.

These types of yarns are inserted in the warp and weft directions in order to get a fabric appearance uniform. Yarns made from Kevlar fibers have very low elasticity. The performance of these fabrics is based on their good mechanical properties, durability and stability. They are often used in several forms and for various applications, but as a one-layer product such fabrics do not always have suitable properties. Therefore their use is generally as part of a multiple. However, due to the surface smoothness of multifilament yarns there is a possibility of interlacing point's displacement or yarn slippage.

2. Materials and Methods The experimental study was carried out by measuring the extension of Kevlar 29 woven fabrics samples under the breaking load force action. The values of the breaking load force in warp and weft direction was recorded and in relation to the relative extension were measured.

These mechanical properties have been investigated by many researchers. For woven fabric, Kilby [8], defined the Poisson's ratio and measured the tensile strength of fabrics in a random direction. According to his study he shows that there is a good relationship between Poisson's ratio and fabric elasticity modulus. Also, Petterson and Backer [9], defined of the performed experiments. Thirwell and Treloar [10], calculated the Poisson's ratio according to the measurements of the tensile strength attitude of nonwovens samples in a range of test angles related to the main directions. Hearle et al [11], calculated the Poisson's ratio and evaluated according to geometrical theoretical analysis.

Three Kevlar 29 samples with different specifications were investigated to show the breaking load and elongation characterization, three different yarn counts were used for both the warp and weft directions, a plain weave structure is used for all samples, as shown in Table 2.1. When a fabric is extended in one direction, it tends to contract in the direction vertical to the stretch direction. The yarns in the breaking load force direction of are extended, and in the crosswise (non-loading) direc-

Table 2.1: Kevlar 29 Samples Specifications Sample Code

Warp Density /cm

Weft Density /cm

Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

Weave Warp Count Structure (Denier)

Plain 1/1

Mass per Thickness Unit Area (g/m2) (mm)

1475

223

0.3266

3200

2800

419

0.561

610

171

0.23

tion, the yarns have a longer geometrical curve, due to the force increasing in the stretch direction. The consequence to this is the fabric width dimension decreased. This fact is called the Poisson effect or Poisson's ratio. The Poisson's ratio is the ratio of the reduction strain to the extension strain in the direction of the applied load. In determining the Poisson's ratio of fabrics, devices for measuring the breaking load strength are used. The breaking load and elongation test were performed using universal testing machine (Zwick), and test samples were done in both warp and weft directions. A Raveled Strip Test, 200 mm was done according to Standard Test Method for Wide width tensile test using ISO 10319 [18], to determine the breaking strength and elongation, the loading rate for testing

Leaf [12], presented the relationship between both shear modulus and Poisson's ratio for warp and weft directions Also, its research shows the mechanical analyses attitude of plain weave structure for woven samples. Bao et al [13], study the error sources during the measurements of the Poisson's ratio for tensile strength test on uniaxial textile samples. Basset et al [14],decided that it's difficult to measure the Poisson's ratio accurately of fabric which interpreted according to the insufficiency of experimental technique reliability. While sun et al [15], established a theoretical equation for estimating the Poisson's ratio in both fabrics directions using geometry of fabric. According to Hursa et al [16], two factors affect the Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Weft Count (Denier)

442

March - April 2020

WEAVING the behavior of fabric breaking load and the variations in Poisson's ratio during extension in warp and weft directions under the breaking load force action. The average breaking load and elongation obtained for different sample in both main directions are presented. After applying the breaking load and elongation three Kevlar 29 woven samples were investigated with different specification. The average results were presented and evaluated for breaking strength and elongation at break after three replicates for each sample in both warp and weft directions Figures 3.1 and 3.2 representing graph presentation for three samples in both directions warp and weft obtained from the tensile strength machine. While Figures 3.3 and 3.4 representing the comparison of breaking load and elongation between three samples in both directions (warp and weft).

machine was set at 300 Âą 10 mm/min. The Poisson's ratio P was calculated using the following equation : P= - ex/ey ... (1) Where ex and ey are the lateral contraction and the extension strains respectively. Three samples were tested in both warp and weft directions on breaking load testing machine with the gauge length of 100 mm. Finally, the average breaking load, elongation and Poisson's ratio values were reported. 3. Results and Discussions It is recognized that woven fabrics have not the same value when measured a physical and mechanical properties in different directions. In another word, fabric mechanical properties in different directions are uneven or dissimilar. In this study, it is tried to investigate

Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Figure 3.1: Breaking Load and Elongation for three samples at warp direction

Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Figure 3.2: Breaking Load and Elongation for three samples at weft direction

Open your business to the world's largest professional network. March - April 2020

443

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING It is clear from Figure 3.3 that sample (3) gave the highest breaking load value in both directions warp and weft followed by samples (2) and (1). Figure 3.4 shows that sample (2) gave the highest elongation value in both directions warp and weft but samples (1) and (3) are very close, this could attribute due to the fabric density and the number of fiber per yarn.

Figure 3.4: Comparison among Elongation for three samples at both directions

The Poisson's ratio acquired for various samples at different extension levels under the breaking load force action in both directions are shown in Table 3.1. At warp direction for Poisson's ratios recorded the highest values ranging from 0.1165 to 0.1482 compared to Poisson's ratios values at weft direction, which

Figure 3.3: Comparison among breaking Load for three samples at both directions

Table 3.1: Poisson's ratio of warp and weft direction

Extension%

Poisson's ratio of warp and weft directions Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

warp

weft

warp

weft

warp

weft

0.0272

0.0176

0.022

0.0344

0.031

0.0528

0.022

0.0328

0.0415

0.044

0.077

0.0576

0.0465

0.0416

0.067

0.0592

0.0915

0.0696

0.059

0.0648

0.0975

0.0736

0.1225

0.1024

0.087

0.0744

0.133

0.0936

0.1172

0.1128

0.0975

0.0976

0.1271

0.1064

0.1165

0.1065

0.114

0.1128

0.1243

0.103

0.1275

0.1216

0.143

0.1236

0.1482

0.1264

0.137

0.1276

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

0.124

444

March - April 2020

WEAVING ranging from 0.1024 to 0.1276. During the breaking load test, it is observed that some slippage and damage happened throw yarn failures. These slippages and damages on the tested sample that were the result of the fabrics ability to resist the breaking load. Breaking load may have influenced the result values because changes in the longitudinal and crosswise dimensions, also the errors occurred in the values of Poisson's ratios. Table 3.2 shows the best equation found to the effect various extension levels on Poisson's ratios and respective determination correlation coefficient (R). The trend lines in Figures 3.5 and 3.6 are the fit lines between extension and the Poisson's ratio in the both directions. The correlation coefficient (R) of the fit line for the results in the samples warp direction are 0.949, 0.989 and 0.9644 respectively, while that for the results in the samples weft direction are 0.9645, 0.9836 and 0.9802 respectively. This means the correlation coefficients in both directions are very close to unity. This indicated the second-order linear relationship between the extension and Poisson's ratio.

Figure 3.5: Relationship between extension and the Poisson's ratio in the warp direction

As the Figures 3.5 and 3.6 shows, Poisson's ratios of the samples in the extension beginning are very small. After that, there is a higher changed of samples dimensions in both directions. By reaching to the end of crimp increased for crosswise yarns, the rate of Poisson's ratios increased slightly. This is due to as the fabric extends the crosswise yarns crimp begins to slightly increase, this due to these yarns are opened. As the pressure build up more deformation at the longitudinal direction it affects both the crosswise yarns crimp and side pressure by increase and continuous exchange of sample dimensions in both directions which increases the affect of breaking load in sample longitudinal.

Figure 3.6: Relationship between extension and the Poisson's ratio in the weft direction

By taking into consideration equation (1) of the Poisson's ratio, these curves in Figures 3.5 and 3.6 are as a result of change in the rate of crosswise yarns crimp increased lightly of sample under side pressure. This is

Table 3.2: Equation and correlation coefficient to effect extension on Poisson's ratios

Code

Direction

Equation

R %

Sample 1

Warp

y1 = -0.0013x2 + 0.028x - 0.0224

0.949

Weft

y1 = -0.0013x2 + 0.0249x + 0.0015

0.964

Warp

y2= 6E-05x2 + 0.0149x - 0.014

0.989

Weft

y2 = -0.0009x2 + 0.0224x - 0.0065

0.9836

Warp

y3 = -0.0014x2 + 0.0292x - 0.019

0.9644

Weft

y3 = -0.0013x2 + 0.0238x + 0.0035

0.9802

Sample 2 Sample 3

March - April 2020

445

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

WEAVING 4. Conclusion In the present work, a thorough investigation into the variations in Poisson's ratio of the Kevlar 29 woven samples in both directions warp and weft during the breaking load has been conducted. Poisson's ratio is affected by the applied load and extension. This study based on the wide width breaking tensile strength test results of the longitudinal and crosswise deformations under certain load. The Poisson's ratios for three different Kevlar 29 fabrics were determined using the relation between the side contraction and the extension strains. The relationship between the Poisson's ratio and various levels of extension exerted to the Kevlar 29 fabrics are derived in both warp and weft directions. The best equation found to affect various levels of extension on Poisson's ratios and respective determination correlation coefficient (R) in the two main fabric directions is investigated. Considering the Poisson's ratio trend in warp and weft directions at different levels extensions, it is shown that the maximum value of Poisson's ratio in the warp direction happens at lower values of extension compared to the weft direction, which make it useful in using Kevlar 29 woven fabrics in the correct direction for a specific functional. But, with analysis of variance (ANOVA) of Poisson's ratio for two directions results confirms that there is insignificant at the 95% or 99% confidence.

due to the rate of extension in longitudinal direction is approximately constant. The maximum tensile at peak of the curve occurs at the maximum crosswise yarns crimp increased. In tensile test it happens slightly higher than the crosswise yarns crimp at high level. This can be interpreted due to the increase of crosswise yarns crimp which results in slightly more fabric contraction at the longitudinal direction. This can be due to the change in the cross section of yarns that is transform in the more flat or film shape. This effect is very small and ends very soon after sample peaks under load. The results of Poisson's ratio were compared in both directions; the calculated Poisson's ratio is presented in various levels of extension at two directions samples as shown in Figures 3.5 and 3.6. Generally, the Poisson's ratio calculated the higher values at the warp direction than weft direction at various levels of the specimen's extension. In addition, the Poisson's ratio of weft direction increases at small extensions, reached to extension at peak and then reduces. The differences occurred in both warp and weft directions can be useful for using Kevlar 29 woven fabrics in the correct direction for specific applications. But, with analysis of variance (ANOVA) of Poisson's ratio for two directions results confirms that there is insignificant at the 95% or 99% confidence level as shown in Table 3.3.

5. Acknowledgement Authors would like to thank Dr. Khaled Ali Tawfik for his assistance during the study.

Table 3.3: The varianceanalysis of Poisson's ratio results between both directions

Code

Direction

Average

Variance

P-value

Sample 1

Warp

0.06611

0.0016

4.49E-05

0.0207

0.887

Weft

0.06946

0.0027

0.0022

Warp

0.085527

0.0017

7.6E-05

0.0354

0.852

Weft

0.089245

0.0026

0.0021

Warp

0.0643

0.0014

0.0006

0.2982

0.593

Weft

0.07655

0.0027

0.0020

Sample 2 Sample 3

P-value # 0.5 significant at the 95% confidence level P-value # 0.1 significant at the 99% confidence level

Raise your profile in global technical textiles Journal of the TEXTILE Association

446

March - April 2020

WEAVING References 1. Elgohary D.H., Abo El Amaim Y.A., The Influence of Using Different Textile Structures and Yarn Counts on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Sacks, Journal of the Textile Association, 78(5), 301-308, (2018). ISSN 0368-4636.e-ISSN 2347- 2537. 2. Sikkema D.J., Northolt M.G., Pourdeyhimi B., Assessment of New High-Performance Fibers for Advanced Applications. Mrs Bulletin, 579-584, (2003). DOI: 10.1557/mrs2003.169 3. Fayed A.I.H., Abo El Amaim Y.A., Elgohary D.H., Investigating the Behavior of Manufactured Rocket Propelled Grenade (RPG) Armour Net Screens from Different Types of High Performance Fibers, International Journal of Science and Research 8. 2088-2091, (2019). ISSN: 2319-7064. 4. Bin Kabir R., Ferdous N., Kevlar-The Super Tough Fiber, International Journal of Textile Science, 1, 78-83, (2012).DOI: 10.5923/j.textile.20120106.04. 5. Rebouillat S., Steffenino B., High performance fibres and the mechanical attributes of cut resistant structures made therewith, High Performance Structures and Materials III, 85, 279-299, (2006).doi:10.2495/HPSM06028. 6. Zhu D., Mobasher B., Rajan S.D., Dynamic Tensile Testing of Kevlar 49 Fabrics, Journal of Materials in Civil Engineering, 23, 1-11, (2011).ISSN 0899-1561/0000/3-0-0/. 7. Lim J.S., Lee B.H., Lee C.B., In-Sik Han. Effect of the Weaving Density of Aramid Fabrics on their Resistance to Ballistic Impacts, Engineering, 4, 944-949, (2012). http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/ eng.2012.412A119. 8. Kilby W.F., Planar Stress-Strain Relationships in Woven Fabrics, Journal of Textile Institute, 54, 927, (1962). https://doi.org/10.1080 194470263086 59910. 9. Petterson D.R., Backer S., Relationships between

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

the Structural Geometry of a Fabric and its Physical Properties, Part VII: Mechanics of Nonwovens: Orthotropic Behavior, Textile Research Journal. 33, 809-816, (1963). DOI: 004051756303301007. Thirwell B.E., Treloar L.R.G., Non-Woven Fabrics. Part VI: Dimensional and Mechanical Anisotropy, Textile Research Journal, 35, 827-835, (1965). DOI: 004051756503500907. Hearle J.W.S., Grosberg P., Backer S., Structural Mechanics of Fiber, Yarn and Fabrics, Volume 1.Wiley-Interscience, New York (1969). Leaf G.A.V., Analytical Plain Weave Fabric Mechanics and the Estimation of Initial Shear Modulus, Journal of Textile Institute, 92, 70-79, (2001). https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000108659615. Bao L., Takatera M., Shinohara A., Error evaluation on measuring the apparent Poisson's ratios of textile fabrics by uniaxial tensile test, Sen'i Gakkaishi, Abstract published in Textile Research Journal, 71,185-186, (1997). DOI: 0040517 59706700114. Bassett R.J., Postle R., Pan N., Experimental Methods for Measuring Fabric Mechanical Properties: A Review and Analysis, Textile Research Journal, 69, 866-875, (1999). DOI: 0040517599 06901111. Sun H., Pan N., Postle R., On the Poisson's Ratios of a Woven Fabric, Composite Structures, 68, 505510, (2005).doi: 10.1016/j.compstruct.2004.05.017. Hursa A., Rolich T., ErcegovicRazic S., Determining Pseudo Poisson's Ratio of Woven Fabric with a Digital Image Correlation Method, Textile Research Journal. 79, 1588-1598, (2009). DOI: 10.1177/0040517509104316. Jinyun Z., Yi L., Lam J., Xuyong C., The Poisson Ratio and Modulus of Elastic Knitted Fabrics. Textile Research Journal. 80, 1965-1969, (2015). DOI: 10.1177/0040517510371864 BS EN ISO 10319 "Geosynthetics - Wide-width tensile test", (2008). ❑❑❑

Align your company with the growing authority in Textiles March - April 2020

447

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

PEER REVIEWED

DESIGN

Training and Production in Sewing : A Step towards Women Empowerment Yasha Malick* & Dr. Sangita Saini Department of Home Science at Dayalbagh Educational Institute, Deemed University, Abstract Upliftment of women is the major issue that can be achieved through imparting skills that already exists in them. It would hence make them capable to support their family in a better way there by empowering them. Development and realization of their capabilities and skills will support women to become confident, self-dependent and financially self-sufficient. This study is related with upgrading the sewing related skills of women so that they can generate revenues to support their family. The study was conducted in a semi urban slum in Agra. Twenty-five women were identified with sewing machine and registered for sewing training. Market survey was conducted to identify the stitched items in demand. The items that are in trend, require low investment as well as do not loose there acceptability rapidly were identified. Training was followed by production for each selected item. After assuring the appropriate skill level and quality of the items, production was undertaken. Produced items were marketed at the different areas of Agra. It was found that women could earn significant amount of money in each production cycle. The level of confidence in trainees noticeably enhanced as their income increased, inspiring other women to learn sewing skills to generate income and support their livelihood. Keywords Livelihood, Market Survey, Sewing Machine, Sewing, Skill-development, Training, Women.

1. Introduction Garment sector is amongst the various labour intensive segments that offer opportunities for workers to enter in the world's labour force. As per the report by United Nations conference on trade and development, apparel industries provide prospects for nation to industrialize their economy and move away from commodity dependence [1]. Tandon and Reddy, state that apparel and textile industry is an essential element of the world market. This industry provides employment to ten million workers out of which large number are women who are located in almost two hundred nations [2]. Textile and apparel industry have a greater impact on the employment and economic performance especially for women.

1.1 Indian demography According to Census 2011, the total population of India has reached 121 crores. It comprises of 62.31 crore males and 58.74 crore females [3]. India facts states that the most populated states of India include West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra and Bihar [4]. The present study is planned in Uttar Pradesh which has the highest population with 16% of total Indian population [5].

Textile and apparel industries make export diversification available for developing countries and help them to avail their low labour cost advantage. Hence, for Indian scenario, garment and textile industry are going to play a major role as employment providers to women as well as it would immensely contribute in the national foreign exchange earning of the country.

1.2 Socio economic status of women American Psychological Association states that in a society, measurement of socio-economic condition is the sum total of occupation, income and education. Further-more, socio-economic status suggests inequality in distribution and access to available resources. Inequality with women in terms of wealth and their life is present globally. Low socio-economic status of the women effects the society as a whole in terms of education, poverty and health status [6]. World Health Organization states that, "the adverse impact of low socio-economic status on health is compounded for women by gender inequities" [7].

Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), conducted a survey for adult skills and reported that "about 10% of new graduates have poor literacy skills and 14% of them have poor numeracy skills" [6].

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, Yasha Malick, Department of Home Science at Dayalbagh Educational Institute, Deemed University, Uttar Pradesh, India. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

448

March - April 2020

DESIGN 1.3 Need for skill development Our country has a huge population and according to International labour organization, only 10 per cent of country's population are receiving skill training (2% formal vocational training and 8% non-formal training). This proportion is very low as compared to other countries like Germany 75%, Korea 96%, United Kingdom 68% and Japan 80% [8]. In India hence there is an immense need to provide vocational skill training in order to increase its work force. Skill development is an essential tool for the future of Indian economic development [9].

25 women were selected for imparting the skills. Their sewing skill level was assessed by evaluatingthe quality of basic sewing tasks like hemming, straight running stitch and straight machine stitching. Market survey of the local market was done to identify the demand of the stitched products. Women were trained for two to three weeks where sewing techniques desired for each selected item were imparted. They were tested for their stitching in order to development the final products. To gather significant data regarding women's financial status and their confidence level, two set of questionnaires were used. One questionnaire was for assessing the financial status while the other was for assessing the confidence level of the selected sample. Both set of questionnaires were used before initiating the training. After three cycles of production, both sets of questionnaires were applied again. The impact of training and the intervention on the revenue generated were assessed.

1.4 Importance of sewing skills As per the Community Based Health Project, economic empowerment is one of the most fundamental components of women's empowerment. Training activities can only lead to qualify as economic empowerment if they advance women's financial status in a meaningful and sustainable way. With the knowledge and skills acquired through vocational training activities, women would be able to pursue better work and utilize social opportunities to the utmost [10].

3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Skills upgraded Women of the selected area were registered for the sewing training and their prevailing sewing skills were tested for assessing inputs desired for upgradation. Most of the women knew both hand sewing and machine stitching technique but, their quality in stitching needed inputs. Women were trained by demonstrating the right techniques to be followed by them. They were asked to repeat the same sewing techniques practising them again and again to achieve finishing and quality in the learnt techniques. Production was undertaken once the women excelled in the techniques. There was a need to provide proper direction for the prevailing skills and interest. Some skills which need to be emphasized for sewing any kind of stitched product for market level are given in table 1.

Generally, "sewing" is viewed as an activity for stitching personal cloths only, but there are many people who have achieved optimum success and financial upliftment by utilizing their sewing skills. Women can generate enough income by making use of sewing skills which can thus help them to become not only financially independent but also, they can contribute in economic productivity of the nation. 1.5 Objectives of the study The prime objectives of the study are (a) to upgrade skills related to sewing among women, (b) development of product according to market demand, (c) organize sale of the produced items, (d) to assess impact of sewing training on the revenue generated, and (e) to assess the change in the confidence level of the women.

Table 1: sewing skills desired for stitched production of the market level

This study is highly significant as it would be helpful for the organizations wanting to work with skilled people in the related areas. It would ultimately provide guidance to stream line entrepreneurs and improve the socio-economic status of the women.

Sr. No.

2. Research Methodology The present study was an experimental work. The study was done at a semi urban location. Women residing around the selected area, owning personal sewing machine were identified for imparting training. Total March - April 2020

449

Basic Sewing Skills

Straight Stitching

Preparing corners and inverting them

Ironing

Proper packaging

Finishing of the items

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DESIGN son), 150 sets of cushion covers (5 in each set) were produced. Total in-vestment on cushion cover was Rs. 15,570/-. Out of the 150 sets, 126 were sold at Rs. 24,480/- in Agra and return on investment was Rs. 8,910/-. The profit earned was divided among all the women who produced the item. Cushion sets (24 in number) of about Rs. 3,840/- are in the showroom for sale.

3.2 Production and sale of items Products were selected on the basis of market demand which was identified by local market at Agra. The product selection was made on the basis of parameters like low investment, small items size and current fashion trends. On the basis of these criteria, three items were identified in the present study for production, a) Cushion cover b) Potli bags c) Wrap around skirt (Fig.1).

Item II : Potli bags were the next selected item. Twoweek training for potli bags were provided to 24 trainees to carry out production. The production was carried out as per quality parameters (Table 1). Trainees were motivated to contribute some money desired for second pro-duction. Eleven thousand four hundred rupees (Rs. 11,400/-) were arranged while four thousand five hundred rupees (Rs. 4,500/-) was contributed by the trainees (@ one hundred eighty-seven each). Total 342 potli bags were manufactured in 42 hours (spread in 14 days @ 3 hours per person). Out of the total amount 186 bags have been sold at Rs. 22,320/- in Agra. The return on investment was Rs. 6,600/-. Profit earned has been divided amongst all the women involved in IInd production cycle. In this production cycle Rs. 275/- profit other than wages were distributed to each woman. 153 potli bags of Rs 12,480/- are lying in the market.

These items were selected because the production cost of the selected items was low, time required for production of single item was relatively less, the items are relatively easy to stitch. They did not require high level training to achieve accuracy in stitching. Training and upgradation of sewing techniques, which were specific for each selected item, was carried for one to two weeks. After training, production of the selected items was carried (Figure 1). Each item was evaluated for desired quality parameters mentioned in Table 1. Two trainees from the group were trained for judging the suit-ability and quality of the raw material to be used for the particular products.

Item III : Third item selected was wrap around skirt. The item was adopted from the long skirt. During production 156 skirts were manufactured by 25 women in 42 hours (14 days @ 3 hours per person). Total investment in pro-duction was Rs 23,100/-. Trainees contributed seven thou-sand two hundred rupees (Rs. 7,200/-) and rest of the money (seventeen thousand one hundred) was arranged for production. Out of 156 wraps around skirts produced, 120 skirts were marketed at Rs. 33,000/-. Return on investment was Rs. 9,900/-, amount was divided within all the trainees who manufactured the wrap around skirt. About Rs. 396/- profit other than wages was earned by each woman.

Figure 1 : Images of the items selected for production.

The compiled sale details and stock details of all items are given below in Figure 3a and Figure 3b respectively. Figure 2 : Women doing production.

The data present (Figure 3a) clearly reflect that about 67% produced items in all three productions have been marketed. Figure 3b shows that from the first production cycle very few (24 sets) of cushion cover of total estimated (Rs.3,840/-) remain in stock. In case of

Item I: For the first production cycle, cushion cover set was selected. Training of cushion cover was imparted for two weeks. Production was accomplished by 16 women in 54 hours (total 18 days @ 3hours per perJournal of the TEXTILE Association

450

March - April 2020

DESIGN second production 153 potli bags of about Rs. 12,480/ - are lying in stock, whereas from the third production only 36 wraps around skirts were in stock which were expected to be sold for Rs. 9,430/-. This dead stock is expected to be marketed at festive occasions and is lying with different shopkeepers. The money recover will further be added (about Rs. 27,750/-) to the generated income of the group.

3.4 Confidence level of women Change in confidence level of the women was assessed by comparing results achieve from the respondents by filling the self-prepared questionnaire, before the study and after the completion of three production cycles. Data obtained is presented in Figure 5.

Figure 3 : Compiled a) sales of the produced items and b) expected sale from stock lying in the market (in Rs.)

3.3. Impact of production on the revenue generated Data obtained from each production was analysed and is represented in Fig. 4, shows income earned by women through sewing.

Figure 5 : Change in confidence level of women after three production cycles.

It can clearly be interpreted from the above figure that, after intervention women who stitched clothes for their family members increased and a higher confidence level was noticed in all the trainees. They wanted to utilize free time to earn some money using the sewing skills. Before training only six women thought that sewing could support their livelihood whereas after intervention, nearly all the women (93%) were of the opinion that sewing could support a livelihood for their family.

After intervention gradually the earning got improved. In first production cycle, when cushion cover was produced an average additional amount earned by each woman through sewing was Rs. 1100/-. Potli bags produced in second production cycle generated an additional income of Rs. 2,440/- per women. Similarly wrap around skirt which were the third produced item by women provided an added earning of Rs. 2,380/per person. This money was an increase on to her regular income.

The figure suggests that most of the women (93%) after intervention wanted to adopt sewing as a profession and they (20 in number) were interested to start their personal boutique. The women after intervention felt that they were better than those who did not know sewing. The data suggested that, the women believed that sewing as a skill could support their family income. The respondents felt that other members in their family should also learn it. Initially only three women out of 25, could give sewing training to others, but after intervention, 17 women indicated that if need arose, they were confident in their ability to train other women with sewing skills.

Figure 4 : Revenues generated by sewing during intervention.

March - April 2020

3. Conclusion Status of women in India demands high skilled training. Employment rate of women is quite low in India hence "Sewing" is a technique which can be quite useful to empower women and to increase their confidence in 451

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DESIGN them-selves. Training for sewing based activities, if imparted in an organized manner with emphasis on market demand and quality consciousness could become a good source of income for the women to earn and support their families. Increased participation of women in the production pro-cess could bring a great change in economic status of the families living in low socio-economic conditions and would also fulfil the demand of the society at large. The study demonstrates that right quality of product could be achieved through upgradation of skills. The study also demonstrated that quality in production would ensure market and adequate return on investment. Each production cycle led to improvement in financial status and significant return on investment were acquired. The efforts brought about a major shift in confidence of respondents.

Census 2011. (2011). India at Glance - Population Census 2011. Retrieved April 18,2016 from http:/ /www.census2011.co.in/p/glance.php. 4. Indiafacts. (2011). Census 2011 Population Percentage of States. Retrieved April 10,2016 from http://indiafacts.in/india-census-2011/census-2011population-percentage-of-states/. 5. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). (2015). Youth, Skills and Employability. http://doi.org/10.1787/9789264 234178-en. 6. American Psychological Association. (2008). Women & Socioeconomic Status. http://doi.org/10.1007/SpringerReference_61607. 7. World health organization. (2009). Women and Health Today'sEvidence Tomorrow's Agenda. Switzerland: World Health Organization. 8. International Labour Organization Headquarters. (2011). Labour Market Performance and the Challenges of Creating Employment in India. Retrieved April 18, 2016 from http://www.ilo.org/ wcmsp5/groups/public/@ed_emp/@emp_policy/ documents/meetingdocument/wcms_162963.pdf. 9. Zahid, T. (2014, April). Skill Development Need of the Hour, will be the Defining Element in India's Growth Story - timesofindia-economictimes. The Economic Times. Retrieved May 20, 2016 from http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/20140429/news/49493697_1_skill-training-national-skilldevelopment-fund-ncvt. 10. Community Based Health Project. (2014). Women's Vocational Sewing Program Evaluation Report, (January). Retrieved March 3, 2016 from http://communitybasedhealthproject.org/wordpress/ wordpress/wpcontent/uploads/2012/09/WomensVocation-Sewing-Program-Evaluation-Report.pdf.

Women empowerment is an issue which can be addressed through activities and skills which women round the globe already possess. The present study is restricted to sewing however, other skills can also be worked upon. Related studies could be planned on long term basis, in order to make women self-reliance and self- confident. Only sewing training is not sufficient, there is a need to make people realized the immense scope of sewing further use. To encourage participation of women, central and state government should integrate and involve women in their welfare schemes, in order to achieve fruitful results. References 1. United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, & Appelbaum, R. P.(2005). TNCs and the Removal of Textiles and Clothing Quotas. UC Santa Barbara: Center for Global Studies. Retrieved April 18,2016 from https://escholarship.org/ uc/item/3p4354z8. 2. Tandon N., & Reddy E. E., A Study on Emerging Trends in Textile Industry in India. Int. J. Adv. Res. Technol. 2 (7), 267, (2013).

❑❑❑

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX Reliance Industries Ltd.

Cover 1

Rieter India Ltd.

Cover 4

Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

Cover3

Rieter India Ltd. (Components)

Cover 2

Thymas Electronics Pvt. Ltd.

P-482

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

452

March - April 2020

FINISHING

PEER REVIEWED

Enhancing the Physiological Comfort of Seasonal Summer School Uniforms in Egypt K. Nassar*1,2 & Abou-Taleb EM1 Department of Weaving and Spinning, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Egypt1 Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Applied Arts, Badr University, Egypt 2 Abstract The climate in Egypt is known for its high temperatures in most of the country and high humidity in parts like the Delta and coastal regions. Accordingly, any clothes used during this period should have the ability to provide both physiological comfort and functional performance for the wearer. Those functions become increasingly important if the clothes in questions are uniforms worn for a considerable amount of time on a daily basis like school uniforms. To evaluate both physiological comfort and functional performance of those fabrics multiple samples were used. All samples had the same fiber type for warp yarns and same warp and weft densities. The samples differed in their weft types as cotton and PET microfiber were used. Moreover, Plain 1/1, Twill 2/2 and, Twill 3/1 were used as variables for fabric construction types. Those samples were tested for horizontal wicking (mm/sec), UPF, weight (g/m2), relative water vapour permeability (%), and thermal insulation (TOG), and air permeability. (cm3/ cm2/sec). Overall, results have shown that samples with PET microfibers in their wefts showed better performance in testing results when compared to cotton samples. Additionally, fabric structure of Twill 3/1 scored the highest in every testing category when compared to Twill 2/2 and Plain 1/1. Keywords School uniforms physiological comfort, fabric thermal insulation, fabric, Relative water vapour permeability, UPF microfiber.

1. Introduction The Egyptian summer is hot and dry in most of the country, and humid in the Delta and along the Mediterranean Coast. In recent years, the hot and humidity have spread to Cairo most months of the year [1]. Textile fabrics are considered as a second skin for humans which plays a crucial part in protecting humans from the severe and ever-changing atmospheric conditions like ultraviolet rays, hot temperatures and high humidity. Accordingly, the close proximity of clothes to the human skin as well as their performance during daily use has raised many questions. From those questions comfort related one have risen due to the long periods of time where people from different age groups wear those clothes. From those different age groups, one stands out in particular, namely the age group that is from 6 to 18 years. In Egypt ages from 6 to 18 years are usually associated with the period of primary and secondary schooling [2]. Schooling is an important part of the children uprising, where the child spends around 6-8 hours per day in the school and thus spends roughly

around one-third of his childhood span in school [3]. Moreover, In Egypt all public and mostly all private schools have a unified uniform which in turn means that any issues related to physiological comfort of the uniforms have an increasing importance in the child's life due to the prolonged time those students are subjected to those fabrics.

* All the correspondence should be addressed to, K. Nassar, Department of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Egypt, Tel: +201271779239 E-mail : khaled.mansour@gmail.com

In general comfort and its relation to clothing can be related to; [7-10].

March - April 2020

Based on aforementioned facts and in line with the growing interest in physiological comfort as a competitive criterion of fabrics which are used in apparels, many studies were concerned with the dilemma of how to achieve physiological comfort and at the same time maintaining adequate functional performance of fabrics [4, 5]. Comfort may be defined as "a neutral state in which an individual experience no pain or discomfort" [6]. This state is encompassing equilibrium of physiological, psychological and physical aspects between a person and his environment. [6, 7].

Thermal comfort or Thermo physiological comfort; is where our minds are in contend with our thermal set453

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

FINISHING tings. Accordingly, climatic conditions, internal heat production, and body heat loss contribute to thermal comfort. Heat balance can be achieved by clothing by its ability to control, balance, and maintain both heat and moisture loss from the skin surface. Moreover, adequate thermal insulation is needed in cold climatic conditions and this is affected by the fabric thickness of and the number of layers used of this particular fabric. Additionally, fiber type, fiber density and drape among play an important part in achieving good thermal insulation qualities.

excess temperatures and humidity which characterize most of Egypt's weather [3]. It can be concluded that one major contributing aspect to physiological comfort is the ability of the fabric to remove excess moisture. This excess moisture, known as perspiration, is a byproduct of physical activities exerted by humans to facilitate the effective cooling down of our bodies. Under comfort conditions, vapour uptake is the primary mechanism in play to achieve adequate performance of textiles. On the other hand, high performance textiles used in conditions where the body starts to sweat under heavy physical loads need to achieve effective mechanisms for liquid uptake, transportation and evaporation [12, 13].

Sensorial comfort or tactile comfort; is how clothes feel when they come in close proximity to the wearer's skin due to special the presence of sensory receptors on the skin surface which are affected by three main stimuli. These stimuli are mechanical contact with objects, temperature changes due to heat flow from or to the body, and chemical and damaging abuses. Accordingly, different fabric types, construction, and finishing play a vital role in the fabric sensorial properties.

Thermo-physiological properties of clothing can be effectively assessed by using testing equipment that mimics the presence of skin layered with a fabric (skin model type) where the "breathability index" can be deduced from the ratio between evaporative resistance and thermal insulation [14].

Body movement comfort; is ability of a textile to allow freedom of movement, reduced burden, and body shaping, as required which is affected by physical properties like tensile, shear, compression and bending.

Therefore, this study aims to analyze the effect of fiber type and fabric structure on the physiological comfort of school uniforms.

As a result, physiological comfort is determined by both the fabric's physical and mechanical properties and accordingly fabric specifications have a paramount effect on the physiological comfort [11].

2. Materials and Methods To evaluate the effect of weave structures and weft types on the physiological comfort of school uniforms, 6 samples were produced with different weave structures and weft types as listed in Table (2.1).

Moreover, there is a link that can be associated between physiological comfort and protective performance of fabrics. This can be attributed to the role of fabrics as a protective barrier against hazardous environments. Those imparted protective properties can be classified according to the nature of the hazard, such as protective gear against flame/high temperatures and highspeed projectile impacts such as protective clothes used by fire fighters and police/army forces respectively. This protective feature of fabrics, due to its importance, can be extended to traditional and non-technical textile like school uniforms to combat and protect from the changing weather conditions such as ultraviolet,

For all samples, warp material was polyester microfiber, yarn count was 150/288 denier, and warp density was 30 yarn/cm. On the other hand, 2 weft materials were used namely, cotton and polyester microfiber.Yarn count for cotton was 30/1 Ne, for polyester microfibers 150 / 288 denier. Weft density was 26 picks/cm. All fabrics were plain 1/1, twill 2/2, and twill 3/1. All samples were tested for weight, UPF and horizontal wicking. For testing the physiological comfort, the skin model test (Permetest) was used but only for the best scoring two samples.

Make more people aware of your brand and services Journal of the TEXTILE Association

454

March - April 2020

FINISHING Table 2.1 : Specifications of produced samples

No.

Warp fiber type

Weft fiber type

Warp density

Weft density

Weave type Plain 1/1

cotton

polyester

microfiber

Twill 2/2 Twill 3/1

polyester microfiber

30 yarn/cm

26 picks/cm

Plain 1/1

Twill 2/2

Twill 3/1

3. Results and Discussion Results of fabrics weight, horizontal wicking and UPF tests for all samples are listed in Table (3.1).

Equation (1) it can be deduced that there is a directly proportional relation between specific density and weightwhere the density of polyester and cotton is 1.38 gm/cm3 and 1.54 g/cm3 respectively. weight Specific density = -------------- Eq. (1) volume Moreover, the weight of plain 1/1 fabrics are more than that of twill 2/2 and twill 3/1 respectively. This can be explained by reviewing the number of intersections where the plain 1/1 fabric has the maximum number of interlacements when compared to all structures. As a result, more weft length is consumed when the plain 1/1 sample is woven which in turn is translated in higher g/m2. Figure (3.2) illustrates the interlacement diagram of plain 1/1, twill 2/2, and twill 1/3 structures.

Table 3.1 : Results of fabric weight, horizontal wicking and UPF tests

No of sample

Fabric weight g/m2

Horizontal wicking mm/ sec

UPF

183.3

1.4

62.1

179.3

2.5

64.8

177.3

2.3

68.1

180.6

4.3

91.5

172.6

3.9

104.1

170.3

3.7

104.8

(a)

(b)

(c)

Figure 3.2 : interlacement diagram of (a) plain 1/1 (b) Twill 2/2 (c) Twill 3/1 structures

Figure 3.1 : Relation between fabricsconstruction and fabric weight of all samples

As shown in Figure (3.1), fabrics which have polyester microfiber wefts have recorded less weight compared with fabrics made of cotton wefts. This can be explained by the specific density (g/cm3) of tested samples. By reviewing the law for specific density shown in March - April 2020

Figure 3.3 : Relationship between fabrics constructions and horizontal wicking of fabrics 455

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

FINISHING Figure (3.3) represents the relationship between raw materials of weft and horizontal wicking of fabrics. It can be observed that fabrics with polyester microfiber wefts have recorded a higher rate of horizontal wicking for all weaves. This may be attributed to the fact that polyester is a hydrophobic fiber which means the moisture cannot be transmitted through it except by wicking and in polyester microfibers. Moreover, the intra fiber spaces inside the polyester microfiber yarn forms numerous capillary tubes promoting capillary action and thus more wicking is achieved unlike samples made of hydrophilic cotton wefts where moisture is also transmitted through it by absorption which diminishes the chances of moisture to be transmitted by wicking.

Figure 3.4 : Relationship between fabrics constructions and the ultraviolet resistance

Figure (3.4) represents the relationship between raw materials of wefts and the ultra violet resistance. From the figure it can be seen that the fabrics with polyester microfiber weft have recorded a higher value of UPF when compared to the fabrics which have cotton in the weft. Through further inspection this can be explained by the close inspection of the composition of fabric fibers, where fibers can have different radiation-absorbing properties. Fabric's ability for blocking UV radiation depends on fiber chemistry. It was found that fibers with large conjugated aromatic polymer system are more effective in blocking UV radiation. Accordingly, polyester microfiber has a high protective factor against the transmittance of UV light [15-17]. Moreover, polyester microfiber wefts consist of 288 filaments, these filaments are finer, which leads to be more uniform, which in turn leads to more compact fabrics and thus cause an increase in the number of reflective surfaces of light in the unit area, which leads to more reflection of the ultraviolet spectrum.

Moreover, the wicking rate of plain 1/1 weave fabric is higher than that of the twill 2/2 and twill 3/1 weave fabrics for polyester microfiber fabrics. This result can be explained by the higher packing factor of plain 1/1 fabrics when compared to twill 2/2 and 3/1 fabrics as listed in Table (3.2). Packing factors of the samples were calculated based on Equations (2) and (3). Accordingly, the more the packing factor, the more intersection points are present which act as a routing point to the flow of the water which in turn is translated in higher wicking rates. fabric weight (g/cm3) Fabric density = ----------------------------- Eq. (2) Thickness (cm) fabric density Packing factor = ---------------------- Eq. (3) fiber density

Table 3.2 : Results of packing factors for all test samples

No.

Weave type

Fabric weight (g/cm2)

Thickness (cm)

Fabric density fabric weight (g/cm3)

Packing factor fabric density

Thickness (cm)

fiber density

Plain 1/1

0.01833

0.033

0.55

0.36

Twill 2/2

0.01793

0.031

0.58

0.38

Twill 3/1

0.01773

0.030

0.59

0.38

Plain 1/1

0.01806

0.025

0.72

0.52

Twill 2/2

0.01726

0.023

0.75

0.54

Twill 3/1

0.01703

0.022

0.77

0.55

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

456

March - April 2020

FINISHING Permeability index is an indicator to physiological comfort and is calculated according to Equation (4) [9]. Imt = 60 (Pa/K) Rct/Ret Eq. (4)

The UPF of twill 3/1 and twill 2/2 are higher than plain 1/1 for all samples that due to the float length in twill 3/1, and twill 2/2 are more than that in plain 1/1. This leads to make the fabric surface of twill reflective.

where Rct and Ret are the thermal insulation and the water-vapour resistance of the fabric respectively. A higher Imt value indicates a higher water-vapour permeability and thus, improved comfort.

To evaluate the overall properties of all samples and determine the best samples in regard to the studied quantative variables radar chart was used as shown in Figure (3.5).

As listed in Table (3.4), it can be observed that water vapour permeability index of sample (6) is higher than sample (5) moreover, the relative water vapour permeability of sample (6) is more than that of sample (5), which can lead to determining the sample 6 as the best sample of the physiological comfort properties. That can be explained by inspecting the float length of both samples which reveals that the float length of twill 3/1 found in sample (6) is more than that of twill 2/2 found in sample (5). Moreover, as listed in Table (3.2) the packing factor of sample (6) is marginally higher than that of sample (5) which combined with the higher float length of sample (6) lead to a larger contact area between the wearer skin and the fabric resulting in better water vapour permeability index.

Figure 3.5 : Radar chart of functional properties for all samples

From Figure (3.5), it can be observed that samples (5) and (6) scored the highest in the investigated attributes which promoted further investigation of their watervapour resistance, thermal insulation and air permeability to evaluate their physiological comfort.

4. Conclusion In this study, multiple samples with varying fiber types and fabric structures were used to study the physiological comfort of school uniforms. Results showed that samples which have polyester microfibers in warp and weft achieved higher values in horizontal wicking and ultraviolet resistance (UPF) than those with cotton yarns for their weft. Moreover, it was found that samples with the fabric structure of (twill 3/1) achieved

From Table (3.3), it can be observed that the air permeability results of sample (6) recorded the higher value when compared to sample (5). This can be explained by the fact that the float length in twill 3/1 is more than twill 2/2. As observed in Figure (2).

Table 3.3 : Results of relative water-vapour resistance, thermal insulation and air permeability tests

No of sample

Relative water vapour permeability %

water-vapour resistance pa.mÂ˛ w1

Thermal insulation mk.m 2.W-1

Air permeability cm3/ cm2/sec

(5)

92%

1.7

16.6

1.92

(6)

95.4%

1.17

14.7

2.76

Table 3.4 : Results of water vapour permeability index

No of sample

Relative water vapour permeability %

water-vapour resistance pa.mÂ˛.w -1

Thermal insulation mk.m2.W-1

Water vapour permeability index

(5)

92%

1.7

16.6

60*16.6*10-3/1.7=0.58

(6)

95.4%

1.17

14.7

60*14.7*10-3/1.17=0.75

March - April 2020

457

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

FINISHING higher water vapour permeability index and recorded the best results in air permeability.

10. Duru, Sena Cimilli, et al., Innovation in the Comfort of Intimate Apparel." Textile Manufacturing Processes, (2019). 11. Splendore, R., et al., Thermo physiological Comfort of a PES Fabric with Incorporated Activated Carbon: Part I: Preliminary Physical Analysis, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 22 (5), 333-42m (2010). 12. Abu-Rous, M., et al., Fabric Physical Properties and Clothing Comfort, IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 459, (2018). 13. Chinta, S. K., and Pooja D. Gujar, Significance of Moisture Management for High Performance Textile Fabrics, International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology, 2 (3), (2013). 14. Bogus awska-B czek, M., and L. Hes., Effective Water Vapour Permeability of Wet Wool Fabric and Blended Fabrics, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 1(97), (2013). 15. Alebeid, Omer Kamal, and Tao Zhao, Review on: Developing UV Protection for Cotton Fabric, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 108 (12), 20272039, (2017). 16. MahbubulAlam, Mohammad, and Mohammad Tajul Islam, A Review on Ultraviolet Protection of Textiles, International Journal of Engineering Technology Science and Research, 4 (*), (2017). 17. Akgun, Mine, Ultraviolet (UV) Protection of Textiles: A Review,UNITECH '10 GABROVE, (2010).

References 1. Egyptian Meteorological Authority, Weather Forecast, Egyptian Meteorological Authority, 6 Oct. 2019, http://www.ema.gov.eg/. 2. Egyptian Ministry of Education, 21 Oct. 2019, http://www.moe.gov.eg/. 3. Shruti, Gupta, et al., A Study on Satisfaction Level of Fundamental Features of School Uniforms, IJSR, 6 (4), (2017). 4. Li, Peijing. Designing an Elementary School Uniform with Functions of Fit, Comfort, and Road Safety, Fashion Practice, 11 (2), 222-243, (2019). 5. Öner, E., and A. Okur. Thermophysiological Comfort Properties of Selected Knitted Fabrics and Design of T-Shirts,The Journal of The Textile Institute, 106 (12), 1403-14, (2015). 6. Splendore, R., et al., Thermo Physiological Comfort of a PES Fabric with Incorporated Activated Carbon, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 23 (5), 283-293, (2011). 7. Kothari, V K., Thermo-Physiological Comfort Characteristics and Blended Yarn Woven Fabrics, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 3 (1), (2016). 8. Sinclair, Rose. Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technologies. Woodhead Publishing Limited, (2015). 9. Song, Guowen, editor. Improving Comfort in Clothing. 1 edition, Woodhead Publishing, 2011.

❑❑❑

SUBSCRIBE TO

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website : www.textileassociationindia.org Journal of the TEXTILE Association

458

March - April 2020

EFFLUENT TREATMENT

PEER REVIEWED

Studies in Laundry Wastewater Treatment using Ceramic Membranes Vandana Prabhu & Anand V. Patwardhan* Department of Chemical Engineering, Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract This study was conducted to evaluate the applicability of ceramic membranes for treating laundry wastewater at ambient conditions. Two modes of ultrafiltration were used to carry out the study, viz., (i) deadend mode, and (ii) cross-flow mode. Two different feed types, viz., (i) wash water and (ii) rinse water, were all used for ultrafiltration experiments. Dead-end mode filtration was operated at 5 barat a fixed stirring speed of 700 rev/min. Cross-flow mode of filtration was carried out at 5 bar with initial recirculation for proper mixing. All ceramic membranes were cleaned by passing hot deionised water (50 Â°C) after each batch. The separation efficiencies of the ceramic membranes were analysed w.r.t. pH, conductivity, COD, turbidity, TDS, and surface tension. High COD, turbidity and TDS rejection of almost 70%, 90%, and 85%, respectively were observed in the treated water, after membrane treatments. The results indicated that the treated water can conveniently be reused for a fresh laundry wash cycle or toilet flushing, but not for drinking purpose. Keywords Laundry wastewater, ceramic membrane, ultrafiltration, nanofiltration

pollutants found in any source of water. The laundries from households and hotels contain effluents with chemical oxygen demand (COD) values ranging between 400-1200 mg/L [2]. The components of the untreated grey waters tend to have harmful effects on soil, underground water, plants, and also on the water body to which they are discharged. The aquatic animals and plants suffer due to the increasing amount of pollutants that get discharged along with the untreated wastewater, which has been a common cause in developing countries of South Asia. As per CPCB standards (India), permissible limits of BOD <30 mg/L and COD<250 mg/L has been finalised on land for agriculture and marine disposal. Surfactants are the major components of detergents found in domestic wastewater that possess a hydrophilic head and a corresponding hydrophobic tail. Surfactant molecules in aqueous solution accumulate over different interfaces, viz.; liquid/liquid, solid/liquid, or even liquid/air interfaces, thereby increasing the distance between the water molecules rendering a reduction in its surface tension [3]. Reduction of surface tension in surfactant-rich grey water may change the underlying soil structure, as an extension to the soil-water environments. Interaction between laundry wastewater and the saturated soil has been studied to quantify the soil hydraulic conductivity in different soil samples [4].

1. Introduction Water will undoubtedly remain a precious resource as the basic need of mankind. The ongoing global climatic changes have resulted in an enormous potable water shortage. This situation will worsen in the coming decades; arid and semi-arid regions would be affected the most. People are becoming increasingly aware of the need to conserve water due to its shortage, hence are finding ways and means to recover and reuse wastewater by suitably treating it. Grey water is a non-toilet component of domestic wastewater that comes from showers, bathtubs, washing machines, and kitchen sinks [1]. Laundry wastewater is one kind of grey water generated from the washing machines, which consists of a high concentration of surfactants, bleaches, dirt in the form of suspended solids and possibly grease. Chemical oxygen demand (COD) is expressed as the mass of oxygen consumed over a volume of solution in mg/L and its main application is quantifying the amount of oxidizable * All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. A. V. Patwardhan Department of Chemical Engineering Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai. Mob.+919167980788 Email : av.patwardhan@ictmumbai.edu.in March - April 2020

459

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EFFLUENT TREATMENT A common misconception about relative cleanliness of grey water for home garden irrigation has led to reuse it without sufficient treatment which has resulted in numerous environmental pollutions and health problems [12, 13]. Pressure driven membrane processes such as microfiltration (MF) and ultrafiltration (UF) have been suggested as green means of surfactants recovery at critical micelles concentrations (CMC). If the surfactant concentration is below CMC value then fine ultrafiltration and nanofiltration (NF) are reported to be effective for surfactant removal but are not completely devoid of all the surfactants, hence an additional treatment must be applied to make it potable [14, 16-18]. These treated waters can conveniently be used for toilet flushing or gardening or even reused for washing fresh laundry for one cycle. There have been numerous cases in the literature where membrane technology has been used for surfactant (detergent) removal successfully [15, 20-22]. Reuse of grey water is now becoming common in many arid and semi-arid regions in the world, especially in the Arab countries [19]. The interactions between the surfactant and ceramic membranes have been investigated because of their

Treating laundry wastewater before it is released into any aquatic resource or land will significantly lead to a positive effect on those associated with it. Several treatment methods have been applied to treat detergent wastewater, such as chemical flocculation or coagulation-flocculation process, foam fractionation, adsorption, Fenton oxidation, aerobic biodegradation, and membrane technology [5-9]. Our work is concerned with the application of ceramic membrane technology for treating domestic laundry wastewater. Water consumption for both industrial and domestic purposes has increased by leaps and bounds, leading to a shortage of good quality potable water [10]. On an average, laundry requires 15 L of water (for one wash cycle) to clean 1 kg of cloth load and discharges about 45 L of wastewater (including wash and rinse cycles) daily [11]. This figure will drastically increase if laundry washing of every household is considered. The wastewater generated from laundry if treated can be easily reused for toilet flushing and even gardening of that very household which seems to be a reasonably good option to save potable water.

Table 1: Laundry wastewater membrane treatment over the last two decades.

Sr. No. 1

Reference

Treatment

Membrane details

Application of tubular ceramic membranes for reuse of wastewater from buildings. (1998) Treatment of domestic wastewater using microfiltration for reuse of wastewater (1999) Laundry wastewater treatmentusing coagulation and membrane filtration (2005)

Ultra filtration

ceramic, tubular module, cross-flow

Demonstration of a treatment system for purification and reuse of laundry wastewater. (2009) Treatment of laundry wastewater using polyethersulfone/ polyvinylpyrrolidone ultrafiltration membranes. (2015)

Ultrafiltration

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Microfiltration polymeric, hollow fibre module in series, cross-flow Ultra filtration and Reverse Osmosis

Ultrafiltration

Pretreatment Yes

Separation efficiency COD = 89.5% Turbidity = 96.5% TDS = 92.5 %

COD = 95% Turbidity = 79.5% TDS = 86 %

UF: ceramic & Yes hollow fibre in series with RO: polymeric & spiral wound, cross-flow polymeric, flat sheet, Yes cross-flow

polymeric, flat sheet, dead-end mode

460

COD = 98.9% Turbidity = 77% TDS = 99 %

COD = 75% Turbidity = 98 % TDS = 97.5 % COD = 88% Turbidity = 90 % TDS = 82 %

March - April 2020

EFFLUENT TREATMENT effective detergent rejection and purer water flux. Performances of ceramic UF membranes at different operating conditions with two or more types of surfactants, using as feed surfactant solutions at concentrations close to the CMC and below it, have been studied [17, 20]. Porous ceramic membranes have many advantages like good thermal, chemical, and mechanical resistance, controllable microstructure, and have less hazardous impact on the environment [23]. Aluminosilicate porous ceramics fabricated from partially sintered, dry-pressed powder compacts are excellent candidates for membrane supports from the standpoint of raw material cost, simple processing, chemical stability, and excellent mechanical properties [24-26]. Kaolin is the most popular raw material for aluminosilicate-based ceramics due to its easy availability and occurrence in nature [27, 28]. Table 1below, demonstrates a few examples of the use of membranes in treating laundry wastewater over the last two decades.

Figure 1 : Block diagram explaining membrane synthesis

These microporous supports were then dip-coated with boehmite sol. The coated supports were dried at room temperature for 12 h, placed into an oven for 12 h for further drying at a temperature of 1050C. The ceramic discs were further sintered in a muffle furnace at 6000C. A ramp of 50C/min was induced and the temperature was maintained at 6000C for 2 h [30]. The final dimensions of these circular discs were 47 mm in diameter and 3 mm in thickness. The discs were given a wash with distilled water to remove the leftover powder if any. These membranes were characterised for pure water flux, porosity, density, permeability, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Commercial 1kDa ceramic membranes of the 47 mm diameter procured from Sterlitech Corporationwere used for NF studies. Both ceramic membranes(UF and NF) were put to use in astirred type dead-end filtration setup of 750 mL capacity.

In the present case, a kaolin-alumina based ceramic membrane with a boehmite separation layer was synthesised in the laboratory. Two separate laundry wastewater samples, viz., wash water (WW) and rinse water (RW), were collected from a washing machine, for ultrafiltration (UF) and nanofiltration (NF) purposes. The synthesised membrane was utilised for UF and a commercial membrane was utilised for NF. The objective of this work was to evaluate the applicability of the ceramic membranes in the recovery and reuse of cleaner water from domestic laundry wastewater. Depending on the separation efficiency of the ceramic membranes, one can further carry out the same job usinga continuous mode operation in-line with a washing machine to reuse it for a fresh laundry wash. One could alternatively use this treated water for toilet flushing or gardening purposes.

2.2 Characterization of the synthesised membrane 2.2.1 Membrane density and porosity measurement The ceramic membrane was immersed in deionised water for 24 h. Excess water was wiped with tissue paper. The wet membrane was weighed. Thereafter, the membrane was vacuum dried in an oven at 1000C for 5 h. After drying, the membrane was weighed again. Membrane density was calculated as per Equation 1 [25].

2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Ceramic membranes Kaolin-alumina based disc-shaped ceramic membrane supports of 47 mm diameter, using o-phosphoric acid as an inorganic binder and starch as an organic pore former, were synthesised in the laboratory, schematic for the procedure is as shown in Figure 1. After cooling, the fired ceramic was polished with silicon carbide abrasive paper to provide a uniform and smooth surface. The average pore size of the membranes was ~1 m [29].

where r is defined as density (g/m3), mdry as the weight of dry ceramic disc (g), d diameter of the sintered disc and l thickness of the disc. Membrane porosity, (e, %) has been defined as the

March - April 2020

461

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EFFLUENT TREATMENT was treated with UF followed by NF. The RW has an appreciable amount of surfactant but very less dirt hence was treated with just NF (Table 2 and Figure 2).

volume of the pores over the total volume of the porous ceramic disc. It usually is determined by the gravimetric method, considering the weight of liquid water contained in the membrane pores, and is shown in Equation 2 [25].

Table 2: Analysis of water samples before membrane treatment Parameters

2.2.2. Pore size and Hydraulic permeability calculation The permeation experiments (pure water flux) were carried out in a dead-end mode stirred cell. Pore size(r in m) and hydraulic permeability (Lhin L/m2.h) calculations were evaluated from the slopes of the water-flow through the membranes versus pressure graph, by the Hagen-Poiseuille equation (Equation 3):

The hydraulic permeability of the ceramic membrane (Lh) was evaluated using linear regression of the flux versus applied pressure. All the experiments were conducted for at least three different membrane samples prepared. The pure water flux was determined at 500 kPa pressure[29].

7.80

10.99

10.02

COD (mg/L)

47.00

553.00

390

Turbidity (NTU)

0.10

42.50

20.2

Conductivity (mS/cm)

10.20

4.47

2.90

TDS (mg/L)

140.30

790.00

552.00

Surface tension (mN/m)

69.00

32.00

48.00

Figure 2: Block diagram for membrane treatment of real samples

2.4 Membrane filtration experiments using real samples Kaolin-alumina based disc-shaped ceramic membrane supports of 47 mm diameter, using o-phosphoric acid as an inorganic binder and starch as an organic pore former, were synthesised in the laboratory [29]. These microporous supports were then dip-coated with boehmite sol to fabricate a membrane, both as mentioned in chapter 4. The theoretically calculated pore size of this membrane was ~3 m, roughly 30-35 kDa [29]. Let us consider this to be membrane 1.

2.2.3 SEM study SEM (Make: Leo 1430 vp) was carried out to study the surface morphology and also to determine surface porosity. SEM images from the top and side sections of the membrane were captured. 2.3 Laundry wash 1 kg of unclean lab aprons was loaded in a top-loaded semi-automatic washing machine (at ICT Mumbai hostel) with 15L of fresh tap water. A measured quantity of (8 g: 1 scoop) of detergent powder was added to the water-dipped clothes, as per the standard instructions of the detergent in use. 1L of sample wash water after the cycle was collected for membranefiltration experiments and analysis-purpose. Then, fresh tap water was added to the wet clothes for the rinse cycle. 1L of sample rinse water after the rinse cycle was collected for analysis and membrane treatment. Thus, samples of wash water (WW) and the first rinse cycle, rinse water (RW), were collected. The WW has a large quantity of surfactant (detergent) and dirt, hence Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Tap water Wash water Rinse water

Commercial 1kDa ceramic membranes, roughly of 0.1 m pore size and 47 mm diameter procured from Sterlitech Corporation, USA, were used for fine-UF studies. Both these ceramic membranes of 47 mm dia and ~3.5 mm thick were put to use in a stirred type dead-end filtration setup of 750 mL capacity which has a constant stirring speed of 700 rev/min. The filtration setup is the same as those were mentioned in previous chapters. Let us consider this membrane to be membrane 2. 462

March - April 2020

EFFLUENT TREATMENT 2.6 FTIR The presence of chemical functional groups in the water samples before and after membrane filtration was identified by FTIR spectra (Model Perkin Elmer Spectrum 400,U.S). The scans for each membrane samples were collected in the spectral range of 4000-500 cm-1.

Commercial 1kDa tubular ceramic membranes were also used that were procured from Tami industries, France. Let us consider this to be membrane 3. Membrane specifications are as follows: ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Number channels = 7 Hydraulic diameter = 2 mm External diameter = 10 mm Length of tube = 1178 mm Available surface area = 0.06 m2

2.7 Membrane cleaning After each membrane run, the membranes were cleaned by passing hot deionised water (500C) through them at a trans-membrane pressure of 100 kPa for 60 min. The membrane cleaning was carried out in forward (normal) mode. After the cleaning step, fresh tap water was passed through the membranes, until the initial flux was restored. There was no need of backflush for cleaning. No commercial detergent was used during cleaning to avoid any interference in laundry wastewater analysis [16].

The tubular ceramic membrane was used in the NF/ UF continuous setup, custom made, fabricated from the Microfilt India Pvt. Ltd. Its feed tank capacity was 5 L and the experiment was carried out at a feed inlet flow rate of 50 L/h. The UF, as well as NF experiments using the laundry sample waters (WW and RW), were studied using the dead-end mode stirred cell at room temperature. The corresponding fluxes were calculated using equation 4.

2.8 Membrane reusability The UF and NF membranes were consecutively used for three to four different filtration trials. During the course, the flux nature of the water sample was observed to decide the membrane reuse.

where J is the pure water flux in L/(m2 h), V is the volume of water sample permeated in litres, A is the area of membrane in m2 and St is the time for permeate collection in hours. Flux data of tap water were collected at varying pressures viz., 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500kPa. Since at 500kPa, flux was considerably good for both NF and UF membranes,the permeate flux of laundry wastewater samples was calculated in a 15 min interval of time at 500 kPa using Eq. (4). Flux (J) values were calculated for: tap water (TW), wash water (WW), rinse water (RW) and also for the permeate sample from UF (M1) membrane that was subjected to NF (M2) treatment. The membrane filtration experiments of the WW and RW samples were carried out as shown in Figure 2.

2.9. Water recovery and its reuse The NF treated waters, both WW and RW, were analysed by testing for parameters like COD, pH, turbidity, TDS, surface tension, and FTIR as mentioned in section 2.5 and 2.6. The values were compared with those of tap water. The permissible limits of these parameters in water were also checked as per CPCB standards (India) and a suitable application was recommended. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Membrane characterization of the synthesised membrane 3.1.1 Membrane density and porosity measurement Membrane density of the synthesised membranes was calculated by using equation (1). The density values varied between 655.1 kg/m3 to 702.3 kg/m3. Membrane porosity was calculated using equation (2). The porosity values of the coated ceramic membranes varied between 30 to 32% consistently.

2.5. Water sample analysis The samples collected from the wash cycle, rinse cycle, as well as tap water, was tested for surface tension using Krüss K-8 tensiometer, Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), pH, conductivity and turbidity to know the initial sample parameters. These analyses were carried out for their respective permeate samples as well, as shown in Table 2.

March - April 2020

3.1.2 Pore size and Hydraulic permeability calculation The results of membrane permeation experiments tested with pure water flux (PWF), at different trans-membrane pressures, (Figure 3). Effective membrane area was calculated to be 1.4521 10-3 m2. The flux experi463

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EFFLUENT TREATMENT ments were carried out up to 500 kPa starting from 100 kPa. Beyond 500 kPa the discs developed cracks. Therefore, it can be concluded that the membranes are functional up to 4.5 500 kPa, which means they are mechanically strong up to 450 kPa. Based on the PWF values obtained at the respective trans-membrane pressures, a graph of flux versus pressure was plotted (Figure 3). This plot of flux versus pressure satisfies Equation (3) and thus slope can be represented as SLOPE = r2/(8mL). The average pore radius (r) of the synthesised membrane was deduced thereafter and was found to be : 0.1mm. This is a theoretically calculated value of the average pore radius. Many trials were performed, in calculating similar r values for each batch of membranes synthesised. Average pore radius values ranged between 0.09 - 0.1 m, thus falling in ultrafiltration range.

Figure 4 : SEM image of the dip-coated ceramic membrane

3.2 Membrane filtration experiments using real samples 3.2.2 Effect of transmembrane pressure The effect of transmembrane pressure on tap water permeate flux was studied by conducting experiments on UF and NF membranes at different TMP ranging from 100 to 500 kPa and at a constant stirring speed of 700 rev/min. The results are shown in Figure 5. It was observed that the flux increased with an increase in the trans-membrane pressure (SP). The increase in flux was due to higher driving force (SP) applied on the membrane surface that overcomes the membrane resistance and the pressure drop of the solution on the membrane surface, be it UF or NF. Since both the membranes showed considerably higher flux values at 500 kPa, the membrane filtration experiments with real water samples viz., wash water and rinse water, were also carried out at 500 kPa.

Figure 3: Pure water flux test of the synthesised membrane to calculate permeability (Lh) and average pore size (r)

The membrane permeability at 500 kPa, as calculated using equation (3) and was 0.2970 L/(m2.h.kPa). 3.1.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) The morphology of the membrane depends on the sintering temperature. Figure 4 represents the surface morphology of the ceramic support sintered at 12000C, followed by dip coating with boehmite sol. It is seen that there is uniform pore distribution in these ceramic discs. The structures are consolidated. As reported in [29], pore size before dip coating was around ~1 m. Post dip coating, there was an obvious reduction in pore size that has been confirmed by the PWF tests carried out.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 5 : Tap water permeate flux data for UF and NF membranes 464

March - April 2020

EFFLUENT TREATMENT Table 3 : Properties of the synthesised membrane (UF) and commercial membrane (NF)

Membrane

Pure water flux (L/m2.h) @ 500 kPa

Porosity (%)

Wash-water flux (L/m2.h) @ 500 kPa

Wash water permeate from UF (L/m2.h) @500 kPa

Rinse-water flux (L/m2.h) @500 kPa

148.53

32 - 35

117.48

N/A

54.25

24 - 27

N/A

53.44

51.67

Table 4(b): Rinse water (RW) sample analysis data post membrane treatment

3.2.2 Permeate fluxes of various water samples Using Equation 4, the flux values of TW, WW, and RW at 500 kPa have been evaluated in Table 3 below. 3.3. Water sample analysis post membrane treatment 3.3.1 Rejection efficiency of membranes Wash water sample was initially passed through the UF membrane, its permeate was further passed through the commercial NF membrane. Whereas, the rinse water sample was passed directly through the NF membrane as the presence of detergents/surfactants was lesser than that of wash waster sample, as depicted in Figure 2. The WW sampler equired a necessary UF treatment as it visibly had high turbidity in the form of dirt along with surfactants going by its surface tension values as in Table 2. The collected permeates were analysed for pH, conductivity, COD, turbidity, TDS and surface tension, results of which are mentioned in Table 4(a) and 4(b). Wash water (WW) sample analysis data post membrane treatments is tabulated in Table 4(a), and rinse water (RW) sample analysis data post membrane treatment is tabulated in Table 4(b).

Membrane 1

Membrane 2

Membrane 3

9.92

9.23

9.82

Conductivity (mS/cm)

1.53

2.74

1.43

COD (mg/L)

397

172

123

Turbidity (NTU)

12.3

4.2

3.9

TDS (mg/L)

249

101

Surface tension (mN/m)

March - April 2020

Membrane 1 Membrane 2

Membrane 3

8.17

7.89

7.02

Conductivity (mS/cm)

1.05

1.75

1.87

COD (mg/L)

112

Turbidity (NTU) 7.7

5.8

5.2

TDS (mg/L)

116

Surface tension (mN/m)

We can see from Table 4(a) and Table 4(b) that the water qualities were drastically improved going by the reduction in the pH, COD, Turbidity, TDS, conductivity and pH values whereas an increase in the surface tension.WW permeate from UF shows a considerable drop in values of the parameters measured, hence can conveniently be used for toilet flushing purpose for which such a water quality is permissible. The values of the concerned parameters were further reduced post NF treatment of both, WW permeate sample after UF and RW. Hence one can consider this treated water for domestic gardening or else for a fresh laundry wash cycle, as the parameters in consideration are within permissible limits. The overall summary of rejection efficiency of membranes is given in Table 5.

Table 4(a): Wash water (WW) sample analysis data post membrane treatments Parameters

Parameters

3.3.2 FTIR The separation efficiencies of the membranes used for the treatment of laundry wastewater has been illustrated in the FTIR images taken at various stages of experimentation, (Figures 6(a) and 6(b)). The C=O (carbonyl) bonds were present in WW water samples before UF (Figure 6(a) & (b)) as shown by the peaks ranging between 1626 -1637 cm-1 wave number, along with peaks of large fatty alkyl group corresponding to 2850 - 2950 cm-1, 1115 - 1186 cm-1 corresponding to sulphonate group (presence of anionic surfactants) and 833 - 865 cm-1 corresponding to para-substituted benzene sulphonates. 465

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EFFLUENT TREATMENT 3.4. Reusability of the membranes After each filtration experiment with the synthesised membrane (UF), it was cleaned as mentioned before in the cleaning procedure. The initial pure water flux was restored for consequent three trials, beyond which there was visible increase flux. Such an abrupt increase is undesirable as it poses a question to the separation efficiency. A similar trend was observed in the filtration experiments using the commercial NF membranes. There were visible cracks observed on the membrane surfaces, after the third trial at 500kPa. As mentioned earlier regarding the mechanical strength of the synthesised membrane, 450 - 500 kPa is its threshold pressure limit, beyond it can break at any point of time. The same reason holds for the development of cracks for the commercial nanofiltration membranes as well. It can be therefore stated that the membranes can be reused for an average three times in succession under 500 kPa.

Figure 6 (a) : FTIR images pre- and post- UF

4. Conclusion The use of ceramic membranes for recovering purer water from the laundry wastewater seems to be promising in future. The permeate fluxes of both UF and the NF membranes were directly proportional to driving force (DP) and inversely proportional to the MWCO of the membranes. The performance of the synthesised UF membrane and the commercial NF membrane was evaluated by observing the trends in fluxes of various

Figure 6 (b) : FTIR images pre- and post- NF

Table 5: Rejection efficiency of membranes

WASTEWATER (WW)

No treatment

Membrane 1

Membrane 2

Membrane 3

COD (mg/L)

553

397

172

123

29.1

69.9

78.7

12.3

4.2

3.9

70.05

90.11

90.81

249

101

68.4

87.2

88.3

112

71.2

76.4

77.1

10.7

5.2

47.2

74.2

79.7

116

78.9

82.2

86.2

Rejection efficiency (%) Turbidity (NTU)

42.5

Rejection efficiency (%) TDS (mg/L)

790

Rejection efficiency (%) RINSE WATER (RW) COD (mg/L)

390

Rejection efficiency (%) Turbidity (NTU)

20.2

Rejection efficiency (%) TDS (mg/L)

552

Rejection efficiency (%) Journal of the TEXTILE Association

466

March - April 2020

EFFLUENT TREATMENT water samples. Both membranes have appreciable mechanical strengths as they can withstand 450-500 kPa of pressure, for an average of three filtration trials. The wash water sample subjected to UF, significantly lowered COD, conductivity, pH, turbidity and TDS and increased surface tension value of the permeate obtained. This water can be utilised for toilet flushing purpose. A similar trend was observed in NF treatment of the permeate obtained from UF as well as of the rinse water. Almost 75 - 80 % COD removal was obtained by NF treatment. The parameters such as COD, pH, conductivity, and TDS of the NF treated waters are well within permissible limits and thus, this treated water can be satisfactorily used for house gardening as well as a for a fresh laundry wash cycle. The results obtained in this work displays potential applicability of membrane technology in the recovery and reuse of water generated from laundry waste. This technology can be scaled up for its use on a larger scale on a continuous system instead of a batch setup.

10.

5. Acknowledgement Vandana Prabhu gratefully acknowledges Pidilite-M. M. Sharma endowment fellowship (No.ICT/Acad./ 7415) for the financial support, as well as the INNTEQIP fund for sponsoring for the analytical instruments. The authors deeply thank Dr Ajay D. Sharma and Dr Ketan S. Kulkarni for their constant support and timely help during the course of experimentation.

11.

12.

References 1. Travis M.J., Weisbrod N., Gross A. Accumulation of oil and grease in soils irrigated with greywater and their potential role in soil water repellency. Sci. Total. Environ,394, 68-74 (2008). 2. Christova-Boal D., Eden R.E., McFarlane S. An investigation into greywater reuse for urban residential properties. Desalination, 106, 391-397, (1996). 3. Shafran A.W., Gross A., Ronen Z., Weisbrod N., Adar E. Effects of surfactants originating from reuse of greywater on capillary rise in the soil. Water Sci. Technol., 52, 157-166, (2005). 4. Misra R.K., Sivongxay A. Reuse of laundry greywater as affected by its interaction with saturated soil. J. Hydrol.,366, 55-61, (2009). 5. Suárez L., Díez M.A., García R., Riera F.A. Membrane technology for the recovery of detergent compounds: A review. J. Ind. Eng. Chem.,18, 18591873, (2012). March - April 2020

13.

14.

15.

16.

17. 467

Tripathi S.K., Tyagi R., Nandi B.K. Removal of residual surfactants from laundry wastewater: A review. J. Disper. Sci. Technol., 34, 1526-1534, (2013). Martins R.C., Nunes M., Gando-Ferreira L.M., Quinta-Ferreira R.M. Nanofiltration and Fenton's process over iron shavings for surfactants removal. Environ. Technol., 35, 2380-8, (2014). Schouten N., van der Ham L.G., Euverink G.J., de Haan A.B. Selection and evaluation of adsorbents for the removal of anionic surfactants from laundry rinsing water. Water Research.,41, 4233-4241, (2007). Aboulhassan M.A., Souabi S., Yaacoubi A., Baudu M. Removal of surfactant from industrial wastewaters by coagulation flocculation process. Internat. J Environ. Sci. Technol.,3, 327-332, (2006). Sumisha, A., Arthanareeswaran, G., Lukka Thuyavan, Y., Ismail, A. F., Chakraborty, S. Treatment of laundry wastewater using polyether sulfone/ polyvinyl pyrrolidone ultrafiltration membranes. Ecotoxicol. Environ. Saf.,121, 174-179, (2015). Ciabattia I., Cesaro F., Faralli L., Fatarella E., Tognotti F. Demonstration of a treatment system for purification and reuse of laundry wastewater. Desalination, 245, 451-459, (2009). Gross A., Azulai N., Oron G., Ronen Z., Arnold M., Nejidat A. Environmental impact and health risks associated with greywater irrigation: a case study. Water Sci. Technol.,52, 161-169, (2005). Ankley G.T., Peterson G.S., Lukasewycz M.T., Jensen D.A. Characteristics of surfactants in toxicity identification evaluations. Chemosphere, 21, 3-12, (1990). Ahn, Kyu-Hong, Kyung-Guen Song. Treatment of domestic wastewater using microfiltration for reuse of wastewater. Desalination, 126, 7-14, (1999) Giagnorio, Mattia, Antonio Amelio, Henrik Grüttner, Alberto Tiraferri. Environmental impacts of detergents and benefits of their recovery in the laundering industry. J. Clean. Prod., 154, 593-601, (2017). Šostar-Turk, Sonja, Irena Petrini, Marjana Simoni. Laundry wastewater treatment using coagulation and membrane filtration. Resour. Conser. Recycl., 44, 185-196, (2005). Ahn, Kyu-Hong, Ji-Hyeon Song, Ho-Young Cha. Application of tubular ceramic membranes for Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EFFLUENT TREATMENT

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

reuse of wastewater from buildings. Water Sci. Technol., 38, 373-382, (1998). Linclau E., Ceulemans J., De Sitter K., Cauwenberg P. Water and detergent recovery from rinsing water in an industrial environment. Water Resour. Ind., 14, 3-10, (2016). ACWUA Report_Arab countries: http:// www.ais.unwater.org/ais/pluginfile.php/356/ mod_page/content/128/Jordan_Summary-ReportCountryCasestudies_final.pdf [Silke Rothenberger; ACWUA - Wastewater Reuse in Arab Countries; Arab Countries Water Utility Association; 2010] Fernández E., Benito J.M., Pazos C., Coca J. Ceramic membrane ultrafiltration of anionic and nonionic surfactant solutions. J. Membr. Sci.,246, 1-6, (2005) Kowalska I., Majewska-Nowak K., KabschKorbutowicz M. Ultrafiltration treatment of detergent solutions. Desalination. 200, 274-6, (2006). S. M. Kanawade. Laundry Wastewater Reuse in Irrigation and its Effects on Soil. Int. J. Multidisciplinary Res. Dev., 2, 104-110, (2015). Harabi A., Zenikheri F., Boudaira B., Bouzerara F., Guechi A., Foughali L. A new and economic approach to fabricate resistant porous membrane supports using kaolin and CaCO3. J. Eur. Ceram. Soc.,34, 1329-1340, (2014). Dong Y., Lin B., Xie K., Wang S., Ding H., Fang D., Liu X., Meng G. Cost-effective macro-porous

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

mullite-corundum ceramic membrane supports derived from the industrial grade powder. J. Alloy Compd., 477, 350-356, (2009). Han L.F., Xu Z.L., Cao Y., Wei Y.M., Xu H.T. Preparation, characterization and permeation property of Al2O3, Al2O3-SiO2 and Al2O3-kaolin hollow fiber membranes. J. Membr. Sci., 372, 154164, (2011). Sahnoun R.D., Baklouti S. Characterization of flat ceramic membrane supports prepared with kaolin-phosphoric acid-starch.Appl. Clay Sci., 83, 399404, (2013). Chen, Y.F., Wang, M.C., Hon, M.H., Pore structure and permeation properties of kaolin-silica-alumina ceramics, J. Ceram. Soc. Jpn. 111, 537-543, (2003). Chen G., Qi H., Xing W., Xu N. Direct preparation of macroporous mullite supports for membranes by in situ reaction sintering. J. Membr. Sci., 318, 38-44, (2008). Prabhu V., Patwardhan, A.V., Patwardhan, A.W. Fabrication and characterization of micro-porous ceramic membrane based on kaolin and alumina. Indian J. Chem. Technol., 24, 367-373, (2017). Chen X., Zhang W., Lin Y., Cai Y., Qiu M., Fan Y. Preparation of high-flux ?-alumina nanofiltration membranes by using a modified sol-gel method. Micropor. Mesopor. Mat., 214, 195-203, (2015) ❑❑❑

ADVERTISE IN

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact: THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org Journal of the TEXTILE Association

468

March - April 2020

TEXPERIENCE

Analysis of Labour Cost in Spinning Units Textile Spinning Mills operate in a highly competitive market in which, the selling price is determined by the market and the profit is wafer thin. This situation compels the units to save each and every cost-element. Labour cost being one of the major cost-element, the mills therefore pays serious attention to minimise this cost.

Mr. S. Srinivasan S. Srinivasan is ECMA with M.Tech in Textile Technology from Madras University and a MBA from Ahmedabad (Gujarat University). He has a long experience of about 32 years- in Textile manufacturing in India and Abroad.He has exposure to all the sections of the textile units,viz. Spinning, Weaving, Processing, Circular and Warp Knitting, Polyester Melt spinning, Texurising, Embroidery, Garments and Utilities. He was involved in the Production and Sales of textile products likeShirting, Suiting, Dress Materials, Sarees, Dhoties, Towels, Blankets, Embroideries, T-Shirts, Jogging Suits, Leggings, Army Uniform, and Mosquito Nets etc. As a part of his career, he was Heading a Management Services Section of a Composite Textile unit and during the tenure,had exposure to Cost Accounting Record Rules(1977),Short Term Profit Planning involving, Product Costing, Product Mix Selection using LP techniques,Inventory Management, Budgetary Control (and Variance Analysis), MIS, Quality Assurance, Supervisor's and Weaver's Training. For a short period of two years, he was in-charge of a Plastic Manufacturing unit also. He retired as Director (Operation) and has been a Practicing Cost Accountant since 2011. E-mail: rcpgsrinivasan52@gmail.com

March - April 2020

"Labour"-being a Human-Resource, the various steps taken by the Management on "Labour" has to be agreed by the Trade Unions. The Unions after tough negotiations, agree for, a) wage -rates for different categories of labour and b) the work load under the specified facilities to be provided to carry out the job (the facility may be like the tools like knee brake, material handling equipment, ambient conditions etc). The trade unions citing various reasons, including difficult economic condition in which labourers live, bargain for higher wages. Management cite difficult market situations and try for productivity linked wages as a via media solution, to keep the labour cost at a bay. A thought provoking quote by Mr. Arvind Buch-the Ex-Leader of the" Textile Labour Association"-Ahmedabad, in a textile conference at ATIRA is worth quoting here. Quote: "[All employers want "more work and less pay", All employees want "more pay and less work", Ultimately we end up in "less work and less pay", But I want"more work and more pay"]"End Nowadays all firms try their best to take out the best from their employees. The move that started from IT Industry has spread to other industries as well. It has been realised that "Employees are partners in Progress". The trend in collective bargaining agreement has been "more work and more pay". But having decided the wage rate, the work load, the production rate, the waste levels and the product mix, it is the responsibility of the Management to utilise the labour fully as the golden rule in Cost reduction exercise is "Fuller utilisation of resources used". This means to reduce the labour cost per unit produced, the idle time should be zero. The variations in the work load for different categories of labour, the spindle capacity, the achievable utilisation level of the different sections etc. all need to be looked into, to attain zero labour idle time. These issues are considered in the illustrative example given below, taking a single output viz. Yarn of 40s Carded. But the exercise has to be done by the individual mills for any other count or product mix or processes, using the actual wage -rates applicable. The same procedure may be followed to achieve nil (or nearly nil) labour idle time. In the step by step procedure, the reader should specifically notice the reduction in the cost per Kg of yarn in every step. In the illustrative example, SITRA (2010) Norms are taken as reference. The assumption in, a) Utilisation of the sections, b) Waste Multipliers (considering waste levels in each section) and c) the productivity in different sections areas per the Norms. The 40s Ne cotton carded yarn of Ring Frame is taken as the final output, in all the calculations. 469

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXPERIENCE Table-1: Assumptions for the Utilisation, Waste Multiplier and Output. Sections

maximum of certain Kgs of output. The no: of tenters required per shift is calculated based on both the criteria, and whichever is high is taken as the no: of tenters required. In calculating the no: of spindles/del/ machines required, the utilisation% of the section is taken into account.

Utilisation% Waste Output/ Multiplier 8 hrs (for 1Kg yarn)

Ring Frame (RF) 95

1.00

110 gm/spindle

Speed Frame (SF) 92

1.02

4.05 Kg/spindle

Draw Frame (II) [DF(iI)]

1.03

840 Kg/del

Section

Draw Frame (I) ]DF(i)

1.03

781 Kg/del

1.035 1.08

Card

Blow Room (BR) 92 Input

Table - 3: Tenters Required per Shift (8 Hrs) Output Kg Req'd/shift

Req'd spindle /del/mc

Tenter name

Tenter load # tenter/sft

Ring Frame

1,317

12,600 Sp

2520 Sp

5(WN-5)

370 kg/card

Speed Frame

1,343

360.4 (WN-1)

360 Sp

1.00(WN-6)

1500 Kg/ scutcher

Draw Frame(II)

1,357

1.70 (WN-2)

DT(II)

6 del

0.28(WN-7)

Draw Frame(i)

1,357

1.83 (WN-3)

DT(I)

8 del

0.23(WN-8)

Card

1,363

4.00 (WN-4)

12 mc/ 4,500 Kg

0.34(WN-9)

Blow Room

1,422

4,000 Kg

0.386(WN-10)

Input

1,515

1,500 Kg

1.03(WN-11)

1.15

The process line considered in the above exercise is: Chute Feed Cards (with AWES), Two del DF(I), Single Del DF(II), Speed Frame (120 spindles), Ring Frame (1260 spindles). The cards and DF(II) are with auto levellers and the cards, DF(i) and DF(ii) are with auto doff.

Tenters Code: RT = Ring Frame Tenter, ST = Speed Frame Tenter, DT(II) = Draw Frame Tenter(II-Pass), DT(I) = Draw Frame Tenter(I-Pass), CT = Card Tenter, BT = Blow Room Tenter, MA = Material Attendant WN-1: Output req'dper shift/Kg per spdl.shift/utilis'n% = 1343/4.05/0.92 = 360.4 WN-2: Output req'd pershift/Kg per del.shift/utilis'n% = 1357/840/0.95 = 1.70 WN-3: Output req'd per shift/Kg pervdel.shift/utilis'n% = 1357/781/0.95 = 1.83 WN-4: Output req'dper shift/Kg per card. Shift/utilis'n% = 1363/370/0.92=4.00 WN-5: Reqdspindles (i.e. col3)/tenter load in spindles (Ice col.5) = 12600/2520 = 5.0 WN-6: Reqdspindles (i.e. col3)/tenter load in spindles (Ice col.5) = 360.4/360 = 1.00 WN-7: Reqd del. (i.e. col3)/tenter load in del. (Ice col.5) = 1.70/6 = 0.28 WN-8: Req'd del. (i.e. col3)/tenter load in del.(I.e. col.5) = 1.83/8 = 0.23 WN-9:Reqd cards.(i.e. col3)/tenter load in mcs.(Ice col.5) = 4.00/12 = 0.33.The output of 4.00 cards at 370 Kgper mc.sft = 1,480 Kg which is less than the max permissible load of 4,500 Kg per CT. Therefore, the load of 12 cards for a CT is taken. WN-10: Output req'dper shift/ Kg per BR.shift/utilisn% = 1422/4000/0.92 = 0.386 WN-11: Output req'd pershift/ Kg per BR.shift/utilis'n% = 1422/1500/0.92 = 1.03

For a small Spinning unit, the cost/Kg is worked out to the register the effect of small capacity on cost. The Spindle capacity of 12,600 (10 Ring Frames (RF) each of 1,260 spindles is considered. To begin with, the output (at RF) is calculated, from which the quantity required at the output stage Of each section (back-processes) is calculated, using the respective waste multiplier (WM). Table-2: Output required in each section Section

Waste multiplier (WM)

Output Kg Req'd/shift

Formula

Remarks

Ring Frame

1.00

1,317

spindles X(gm/ss) X utilisation%

12600*0. 110*0.95

Speed Frame

1.02

1,343

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.02

Draw Frame(II)

1.03

1,357

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.03

Draw Frame(i)

1.03

1,357

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.03

Card

1.035

1,363

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.035

Blow Room

1.08

1,422

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.08

Input

1.15

1,515

RF Kg X WM

1317*1.15

The direct labour (tenter) load allocation in various sections in a Spinning Unit is, in terms of no: of spindles or deliveries or machines per tenter, subject to Journal of the TEXTILE Association

470

March - April 2020

TEXPERIENCE the job of DT(I) also in each shift and therefore DT(I) is not employed. With this rearrangement, the change in the cost is shown in the following table.

Table-4 : Cost/Kg yarn Section

# tenter/sft Minimum Min.#reqd/day #req'd/sft (3 shifts)

Rate

Tot Rs/day

Ring Frame

700

10,500

Speed Frame

1.00

600

1,800

Draw Frame(II) 0.28

600

1,800

Draw Frame(i)

0.23

600

1,800

Card

0.34

600

1,800

Blow Room

0.386

600

1,800

Input

1.03

500

1,500

TOTAL

Table-5: Cost with common labour for two types of machines.

21,000

Total Kg/day=1,317X3=3,951

Dir. Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/(Kg per day) = 21,000/3,951 = 5.32

Section sft

# tenter/ Minimum Min.#reqd/ Rate Tot Rs/day /sft #req'd day day (3 shifts)

Ring Frame

700

10,500

Speed Frame

1.00

600

1,800

Draw Frame(II) 0.28

600

1,800

Draw Frame(i)

0.23

600

Card

0.34

600

1,800

Blow Room

0.386

600

1,800

Input

1.03

500

1,500

TOTAL

In Table-4, the idle time% for the various Direct Labour Categories is:

Total Kg/day - 3,951 Dir. Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/(Kg per day) = 19,200/3,951 = 4.86

[Here the definition of Labour Idle time (%) is, the time for which the tenter is paid, less the time for which the tenter gives the standard output, the difference expressed as % w.r.t the time for which he is paid.]. Man hrs paid = Min.# required per day (i.e.col4) X8 Output hrs = # tenters per shift (I,e. Col2) X3X8

I.e. reduction from Rs. 5.32 to Rs. 4.86 per Kg yarn. The idle% of the common DT has come down from [(6X8=48) less (6.72+5.52=12.24) /48=]74.5% to [3X8=24 less (12.24)/24=]49 %. The same approach for CT and BT is not possible as the nature of these two jobs differ and further, the work areas of Card and BR are far apart. Therefore, there is no change in the idle time of these categories of direct labour.

Table - 4a: DL idle % as per Table-4the idle% is shown in decimal. Dir. Labour

Section

Man-Hrs paid Output Hrs

15X8=120

5X3X8=120

(120-120)/120=0

3X8=24

1X3X8=24

(24-24)/24=0

DT(II)

DF(II)

3X8=24

0.28X3X8=6.72

(24-6.72)/24=0.72

DT(i)

DF(I)

3X8=24

0.23X3X8=5.52

(24-5.52)/24=0.77

Card

3X8=24

0.34X3X8=8.16

(24-8.16)/24=0.66

3X8=24

0.386X3X8=9.26

(24-9.26)/24=0.61

3X8=24

1.03X3X8=24.72

(24-24.72)/24=(-0.03)

Another method to reduce idle time is to run one or two shifts only in a day to feed all the three shifts, thus avoiding the employment in III (and II) shift-as the case may be). The DF (II &I) for two shifts and Card & BR will be operated for one shift and rest of the sections including MA will be operated for all three shifts. The change in DL -idle% and the cost/Kg can be seen from the following table. This arrangement will need more storage containers like Card and DF cans and more storage space for them. In BR, more bin-space will be required.

Idle%

The negative idle fig in MA is small and can be made zero with adjustment in BR-utilisation or by rate adjustment. In further calculations the idle time for MA is taken as zero.

Table-5: One (or two shift) working to feed three shifts.

Table 4a indicates that the Direct Labour (DL)-RT, ST, MA are fully utilised with zero idle time, but the DLDT(II), DT(I), CT and BT have idle time, respectively 72%, 77%, 66% and 61% which is quite high. One of the tools available to reduce the idle time is to combine two nearly similar jobs for one category of labour. As DT (II&I) are idle, DT(II) should handle March - April 2020

19,200

Section

# tenter/ shift

Minimum # Shifts/ reqd/sft day

Min.#reqd Rate /day

Tot Rs /day

Ring Frame

700

10,500

Speed Frame

1.00

600

1800

Draw Frame(II)

0.28

600

1200

Draw Frame(i)

0.23

600

Card

0.34

600

Blow Room

0.386

600

Input

1.03

500

1500

TOTAL

471

16,200

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXPERIENCE I.e reduction from Rs. 4.86 to Rs. 4.13 per Kg yarn.(or increase from 4.10 to 4.13 per Kg due to the rate revision.)

Total Kg/day3, 951 Dir.Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/(Kg per day) = 16,200/3,951 = 4.10

With these adjustments, all the DL except DT (common) has zero idle time. DT(common) still has 23.5% idle time. Like engaging DL for one or two shifts a day to get output for three shifts, we can consider, engaging them for 5 days in a week and get the output for 6 days in a week and work out the idle% in that scenario. Following is the working is done for DT (common) only.

I.e. reduction from Rs.4.86 to Rs.4.10 per Kg yarn. Table - 5a: The idle% has come down as follows: Dir. Labour From

Dir. Labour

49 %

[(2X8=16) less (12.24)]/16=]23.5%.

66 %

[(2X8=16) less (12.24)]/16=]23.5%.

61 %

[1X8=8 less(9.26)/8=(-16%)

Table-7:

The negative idle % of 2% for CT and 16% for BT may be compensated by higher work load of 2% (4500X1.02 = 4,590Kg per CT) and 16% (i.e.4000X1.14 = 4,560 Kg per BT) respectively with the corresponding increase in rate for CT from Rs 600 to (600X1.02=) 612 and for the BT, the rate from 600 to (600X1.1=) 700 approx. (I.e. a case of productivity linked wage rise). In case of CT, the negative idle % is just 2% and therefore, higher utilisation of the card section will remove the negative idle% and thus higher rate can be avoided. In case of BT, the negative idle % is quite high (16%) and therefore, higher utilisation to that level is not possible and therefore, higher wage rate is the only option. (Like higher utilisation, higher productivity rate may also give the same result). The Spinning mill may try a combination of both, to reduce the increase in wage rate to save cost.

DT(II)

1356

24408

6X840=5,040

DT(i)

1356

24408

8X781=6,248

Both

2712

48816

5,644(avg)/ person

Table-8

Table-6:

Section

Min.#reqd/day Days/week

Rate/sft Rate/week Tot Rs/week

Ring Frame

700

4200

Speed Frame

600

3600

10,800

Draw Frame(II) 2

600

3,000

6,000

63,000

Draw Frame(i)

Card

612

3672

3,672

10,500

Blow Room

700

4200

4,200

600

1800

Input

500

3000

9,000

600

1200

TOTAL

600

612

0.38

700

1.01

500

1500

# tenter/ shift

Minimum # Shifts/ reqd/sft day

Min.#reqd Rate /day

Tot Rs /day

Ring Frame

700

Speed Frame

1.00

Draw Frame(II)

0.28

Draw Frame(i)

0.23

Card

0.34

Blow Room Input TOTAL

Req'd Kg/shift Kg for 6days # DT(C) del/DT/ Kg/DT/sft (3X6=18 shifts) /day shift

WN-12: Paid in a week for 2 persons i.e for output of 5,644 X 10 = 56, 440Kg but utilised them for the output of 48, 816 Kg. Idle% = (56440-48816)/56440 = 13.5%.With this arrangement the idle % of DT is reduced to 13.5%. To eliminate the idle time, one option is to not to pay for the idle time thereby save the cost..But such option is impractical to implement. At the most, if the wages are paid on daily basis, the wages paid per week can be taken for 5 days (instead of 6 days).

The cost/Kg with this revision in the rates for CT and BT are:

Section

Dir. Labour

96,672

Total Yarn Kg/week 3951X6 = 23,706

Dir.Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/(Kg per day) = 96, 672/23,706 = 4.08 I.e. reduction from Rs.4.13 to Rs.4.08 per Kg yarn.(or decrease from 4.10 to 4.08 per Kg) is due to adjustment in the # days worked in a week and the corresponding (lesser) wages per week. N.B (i): Rate/week = (Rate per shift) X (days per week). E.g. for DT: 600X5 = 3,000

16,312

Total YarnKg/day 3,951 Dir. Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/(Kg per day) = 16,312/3,951 = 4.13

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

472

March - April 2020

TEXPERIENCE N.B (ii): Tot Rs/week = Rate per weekXMin#req'd/ day Still DT idle time is 13.5%. Extending the logic further, on working for 4.5days in week (i.e.9 shifts) one can save Rs 600 (i.e.2X0.5X600) in a week or a saving of Rs. 0.025/Kg. Then the Cost/Kg of Yarn will be = (4.08-0.025=) 4.055

output of (2712X3X7=) 56,952.Then, the DT-Idle time% = (56,952-56440) /56440 = 0.9% which is negligible. A similar approach can be taken to reduce the cost of relievers. In case of Doffers, Ancillary workers, keeping in mind that their employment is not in proportion to the volume of output, the cost reduction exercise should be taken.

For 9 shift working per week, the payment of DT is for the output of 5644X2x4.5 = 50, 796Kg.Then, the DT-Idle time% = (50,796-48816) /48816 = 4% which is small to be ignored.If payment as per daily attendance is not possible,the management should be satisfied with the cost per Kg of Rs. 4.10/Kg and utilise the idle time of DT for some other activities like, machine cleaning. Machine maintenance,waste cleaning etc.and save casual labour employed for these activities and benefit from the saving in the casual labour cost.

Plant Capacity: The plant capacity can also be increased, to reduce idle time of Labour and thereby reduce the cost of labour per Kg of yarn. The capacity should be an integer multiple of the above capacity (of 12,600 spindles) for which the idle time of all the Direct labour is brought to zero (it may be a different spindle capacity in some other cases). The advantages of lower capacity are, a) smaller output which may be sold with relative ease than higher output, b) less investment (suitable for a Small or a Medium Scale unit), c) ease of management control and so on.

Alternatively, for 7 day working, if 1/6 of the work force is employed, some fractions of employees arise (when the total # of direct labourer in a section is less than 6 or NOT in multiple of 6). If casual workers can be employed at the same rate, the idle time% and cost working will be:

Conclusion: A spinning unit, considering its product mix, process flow, process parameters like hank, utilisation & production rate in different sections, agreed work load/ assignment and the wage rate should work out its own calculations, to reduce the idle time of its work force to minimise the labour cost per unit output. In this article, for some direct labour, an increase in wage rate to have "nil" idle time was suggested. Without the increase in rate, when only the standard output is obtained, a shortage may arise. Like in EOQ (Economic Order Quantity) model, a shortage may be allowed, if the cost of shortage is less than the cost of wage rise…but usually the shortage cost is high and should be avoided. It should be noted that the wage rates taken here are, only for illustration.

Table - 9: Section Ring Frame

Min.#reqd/day Days/week 15 7

Rate/sft Rate/week 700 4900

Tot Rs/week 73,500

Speed Frame

Draw Frame(II) 2

600

4200

12,600

600

3,000

6,000

Draw Frame(i)

Card

612

4284

0 4,284

Blow Room

700

4900

4,900

Input

500

3500

10,500

TOTAL

111,784

Total Yarn Kg/week 3951X7 = 27,657 Dir.Labour Cost/Kg (Rs) = Tot cost/ (Kg per day) = 111,784/27,657 = 4.04 i.e. reduction from Rs. 4.08 to Rs. 4.04 per Kg yarn. N.B: 7-day working and 9 shift working in week or alternatives and mutually exclusive.

Author. CMA, S.Srinivasan, M.Tech(Textiles), FCMA,MBA. E-mail: rcpgsrinivasan52@gmail.com

For 7 days working per week, the payment of DT,is for the output of 5644X2x5 = 56,440 Kg but got the

March - April 2020

❑❑❑

473

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. The previous chapter briefly described most recent advances in graphene-based biosensors by selectively highlighting a variety of different examples for the detection of some molecules of biomedical interest. Biosensors can be utilized for the identification of biological analytes such as antibodies, enzymes, organelles and microorganisms. Graphene is a carbon material in a honeycomb structure with one atom thickness that is successfully being employed in the development of new biosensors. The present chapter discusses the applications and the recent progresses of graphene and graphene-based materials in tissue engineering. To give better instruction into exploring potential applications of graphene-based materials for tissue engineering, this chapter has been organized in a property oriented structure. This chapter summarizes and discusses graphene applications in the tissue engineering field based on their mechanical, electrical, chemical, and other properties.

Chapter 19 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : Tissue Engineering Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli Graphene, is a single layer of sp2 bonded carbon atoms arranged in a hexagonal lattice, which is a 2D building block of other allotropes of carbon with varied dimensionalities. Since its first groundbreaking discovery and characterization in 2004, graphene has gained huge popularity on the horizon of materials science and technology. Graphene and its major chemical derivative, graphene oxide (GO), have been intensively investigated since its discovery. It has been demonstrated that graphene and GO have a large theoretical specific surface area, high Young's modulus, excellent thermal and electrical conductivities, and unique optical properties. Such extraordinary properties rendered graphene and GO for a tremendous number of applications in nanoelectronics, nanocomposites, sensors, supercapacitors, energy storage devices, etc. Tissue engineering is a scientific field to reproduce or regenerate damaged tissues or whole organs. To achieve its goal, it uses a combination of cells, engineering scaffolds, and biologically active molecules to assemble functional constructs that restore, maintain, or improve tissue function. Therefore, developing novel suitable scaffolds to fabricate functional complex tissue constructs is crucial in tissue engineering. An ideal scaffold can carry active biomolecules, generate proper physiological signals, stimulate mechanical properties of the native tissue, and provide a substrate to interface with living cells, guiding cell attachment, proliferaJournal of the TEXTILE Association

tion, and differentiation. Graphene and GO, as 2D materials with large surface areas, can provide sufficient substrates for cellular interaction as well as can carry large number of biomolecules, including DNA, enzymes, proteins, or peptides, through either covalent bond or non-covalent interaction, such as ?-? stacking. In addition their exceptional mechanical and electrical properties enable such materials to enhance the mechanical strength of tissue substitutes and to apply electrical signals. Hence, graphene and GO are excellent candidates for tissue engineering. Properties and Applications in Tissue Engineering Graphene derives its outstanding properties from its unique chemical structures where the carbon atoms are arranged in a sp2 hybridized orbital. The sp2-hybridization is the combination of one s-orbital with only two p-orbital to form three new sp2 hybrid orbitals that contribute together to have a planar configuration. This perfectly planar nature of graphene with a huge specific surface area of approximately 2630 m2/g, and the strong strength of C-C bonds gifts graphene strong mechanical properties with a Young's modulus of 1100 GPa and a fracture strength of 130 GPa. It has been found that graphene has a very high electrical conductivity of ~10000 S/cm and thermal conductivity of ~5000 474

March - April 2020

TEXNOTE strength, and osteoblastic cell ingrowth, with enhanced biocompatibility and biodegradability. It has also been reported that a very low concentration of GO could reinforce biocompatible polymer polypropylene fumarate with a significantly enhanced compression and flexural strength, which was suitable for applications in bone tissue engineering. In addition to mechanical strength enhancement, graphene can also improve the toughness of hybrid materials for load-bearing implant applications to regenerate bone tissue. Natural bone, as a major loadbearing part, undergoes micro-cracking under everyday normal physiological load that stimulates the bone remodeling process to stop propagation of micro-cracks and finally produces new bones at the affected area. Such toughening mechanism can be mimicked using graphene-based composites. The strong interaction between graphene or GO and matrix materials can bridge cracks and impede crack propagation, resulting in enhanced toughness. Electrical Properties and Applications The conductive nature of graphene-based materials brings in good conductivity of many bio-hybrids that can be used for specific electrical signal-related tissue engineering applications. Due to the electrical characteristics of the neural system, the electrical properties of graphene-based biohybrids have been utilized in the neural tissue engineering field. Graphene as a scaffold has been reported to promote the adhesion and neural differentiation of human neural stem cells (hNSCs). A possible mechanism was attributed to the electrical coupling between graphene and the hNSCs, which could affect the bioelectricity of NSCs to promote the maturation of NSCs. Tang et al. investigated the impact of graphene on the formation of a functional neural network. They demonstrated graphene could support the growth of functional neural circuits, improve neural performance and electrical signaling in the neural networks.

W/m/K, combining with an ultrahigh intrinsic mobility of ~200000 cm2/v/S. In addition, the electronic structure of graphene also enables further chemical modification. The highly dense p electrons on the graphene plane can interact with many biomolecules containing aromatic structures through p-p stacking. The hydrophobic graphene can also absorb various organic molecules or hydrophobic polymers through van der Waals interaction. For GO, besides the above non-covalent p-p stacking and van der Waals interaction, abundant oxygen functional groups can be used to functionalize GO with various molecules or biomolecules through both non-covalent interactions including hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions, and covalent bonds with chemical interactions. Thus, graphene and GO can be easily combined with a variety of bioactive materials to obtain desired characteristics that can meet the requirements of tissue engineering. Mechanical Properties and Applications The superior mechanical properties of graphene and GO can be used to prepare graphene-based composites with an enhanced mechanical strength for tissue engineering applications. Graphene and GO enhanced biomaterials have been widely utilized in bone tissue engineering. With the incorporation of such kind of extraordinary materials biocomposites have been greatly improved in mechanical strength. While it is well known that stiff substrates can promote bone differentiation, graphene-based composites can enhance osteogenic differentiation. For example, hydroxyapatite (HA) is the major organic part of bone, which can support bone regeneration. After being incorporated with GO, HA/silk fibroin (HA/SF) composites had better mechanical properties with higher compressive strength and modulus, and GO-HA/SF had been demonstrated to promote attachment and proliferation of mouse mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and to stimulate expression of the osteogenic gene osteocalcin, thus promoting differentiation of MSCs into bone. GO has also been reported to significantly boost the tensile strength of poly (L-lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) and HA nanofibrous matrices. The PLGA/GO/HA matrices could serve as mechanically stable scaffolds for cell growth and could functionally promote alkaline phosphatase activity, the osteogenesis related gene expression, and mineral deposition, acting as excellent and versatile scaffolds for applications in bone tissue engineering. Besides HA, graphene and GO have also been reported to enhance the mechanical properties of hydrogels and biopolymers. In addition, a GO coating could improve the biomedical properties of collagen scaffold including surface structure, compressive March - April 2020

Cardiac tissues are electrically conductive, and the graphene-based composites own enhanced conductivity that can match the conductive properties of cardiac tissues or provide electrical simulation for cardiac repair, thus they have many applications in the cardiac tissue engineering field. In vivo studies have shown that the electrical conductivity of graphene-based materials could upregulate the expression of cardiac specific markers, significantly improving the repair efficiency of several heart functions. Conductive graphenebased scaffolds could further promote the cardiac differentiation and increase the metabolic activity of cardiomyocytes to realize better cardiac functions, when 475

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXNOTE a favorable stem cell response. Graphene could also remarkably accelerate osteogenic differentiation without commonly used additional bone growth factors. This might be due to the fact that graphene can increase calcium deposit or local dexamethasone concentration via p-p stacking between the aromatic rings in the biomolecules and the graphene basal plane. The chemical properties of graphene-based materials have also been used in the skin and tissue engineering. The incorporation of GO into PLGA/collagen hybrid fibre matrices obtained a more hydrophilic surface that provided a suitable microenvironment to significantly enhance the attachment and proliferation of skeletal myoblasts, indicating that GO-impregnated hybrid matrices had potent effects on the induction of spontaneous myogenesis. It has also been reported that the different oxidation states of GO and few-layer graphene were responsible for their subtle but differential effects on HaCaT human skin keratinocytes. Therefore, the chemical properties of graphene-based materials render a hydrophilic surface and provide a substrate to adsorb ECM biomolecules, both of which can greatly enhance the cell-ECM interaction and promote adhesion, proliferation, and differentiation of cells on the substrate. Proper surface oxidation or functionalization of graphene-based materials brings about a specific interaction with cells, enabling corresponding tissue engineering applications.

applying electrical simulation. The excellent electrical properties of graphene-based materials have also been widely used in skin and muscle tissue engineering. The conductive nature of graphenebased hybrids is allowed to provide electrical simulation that can be combined with the improved mechanical strength to further enhance differentiation of myoblasts into myotubes. Roger's et al. presented findings on a potential artificial muscle material based on monolayer GO that exhibited a fast response upon an electrical stimulus. Zang et al. fabricated a novel artificial muscle actuator using a laminate of crumpled graphene and dielectric elastomer. When applying a direct-current voltage of 3000 V between the graphene films, the elastomer developed an electric field that induced the Maxwell stress. The stress deformed the laminate by reducing its thickness and increasing its area over 100%. They demonstrated the actuation was fast and the graphene-elastomer laminate could restore its original state once the voltage was removed. The conductive composites containing graphene can promote neural differentiation of hNSCs due to electrical coupling between graphene and hNSCs. The electrical conductivity of graphene-based composites can upregulate the expression of cardiac specific markers to improve the cardiac repair efficiency. Moreover, the conductive composites offer opportunities to provide electrical stimulation, which can induce respective differentiations for different tissue engineering applications and enhance metabolic activity of both nerve cells and cardiomyocytes. The conductive composites can also be used to fabricate biosensors and artificial skins and muscles. Chemical Properties and Applications The chemical properties of graphene-based materials regard their original chemical characteristics as well as their capability for surface functionalization. The large specific surface area of 2D planar structured graphene allows loading or interacting with various chemical compounds and biological species via either chemical bonds or non-covalent interactions for tissue engineering applications. Both functionalized and unmodified graphene and GO can augment stem cell osteogenesis for bone tissue applications. Kumar et al. studied the performance of graphene nanoparticles with various surface chemical moieties in promoting stem cell osteogenesis. They demonstrated the amine-functionalized GO (AGO) exhibited the most significant effect in augmenting hMSC proliferation and osteogenesis, which was attributed to the synergistic effect of oxygen-containing functional groups and amine groups on AGO enabling Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Other Properties and Applications In addition to the above three dominant properties, other unique properties of graphene-based materials, including surface morphology, impermeability, and photothermal effects, make them suitable for some specific applications in the tissue engineering field. Wrinkles and ripples exist universally in graphene-based structures. Both wrinkles and ripples can increase the surface roughness of graphene-based materials, facilitating strong absorption of proteins and enhancement of cell growth and differentiation. Lu et al. prepared a self-supporting graphene hydrogel film as a platform for bone regeneration. They found graphene could effectively enhance the osteogenic differentiation, mainly due to the rough surface morphology combining mechanical properties of self-supporting graphene hydrogel, as rough and disordered surfaces have been reported to induce bone cell differentiation. The impermeability of graphene allows graphene acting as a biocompatible anticorrosion coating to protect metallic biomedical devices that have been widely used in the tissue engineering field, such as bone implants. Graphene coating could enhance both the 476

March - April 2020

TEXNOTE Bibliography 1. Zhao H., Ding R., Zhao X., Li Y., Qu L., Pei H., Yildirimer

biocompatibility and hemocompatibility of implant materials. Zhang et al. conducted both in vitro and in vivo experiments to demonstrate the use of graphene coating as an effective protection film under biological environments. Their results opened up the potential of applying graphene to protect metal devices in biomedical applications. The photothermal effect of GO can be used to fabricate a near-infrared (NIR) light-triggered active scaffold for reversible cell capture and on-demand release, which may have future applications in tissue engineering and cell-based therapy. Li et al. fabricated such a scaffold by combining GO and thermo-responsive poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (pNIPAAm). They demonstrated the 3D hybrid porous hydrogel could efficiently capture cells not only through the bioadhesive GO but could also release the cells upon an NIR light stimulus, realizing better dynamic control on cells than traditional passive cell depots. The intrinsic wrinkles and ripples of graphene can increase the surface roughness of graphene-based composites, which is helpful for adsorbing biomolecules to induce the interactions between graphene and cells, leading to the enhancement of cellular adhesion, proliferation, and differentiation. The impermeability and photothermal property of graphene and GO enable them to be used either as a potential protective coating for metal implants or to fabricate a smart active scaffold to dynamically manipulate cells. Summary This chapter describes various applications of graphene and graphene-based materials in tissue engineering. Due to the unique 2D chemical structure, graphene based materials have fascinating mechanical and electrical properties, versatile surface chemistry, and many other intrinsic properties including rough morphology, impermeability, and photothermal effects. Such excellent properties render graphene and graphene-based materials to be extensively applied in the field of tissue engineering. This chapter is based on the properties of graphene and GO and discusses about the effect of each property on their applications. It has been clarified that in most case the functions of graphene-based materials in tissue engineering applications are attributed to the synergistic effect of two or even more properties. It not only provides an overview of tissue engineering applications of graphene and graphenebased materials, but also, more importantly, gives an outlook to extend their biomedical applications in the future.

2. 3.

6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

11. 12.

13.

14. 15.

16.

17.

18. 19. 20.

L., Wu Z. and Zhang W., Drug Discovery Today, 22, 1302-1317, (2017). Geim A. K. and Novoselov K. S., Nature Materials, 6, 183-191, (2007). Zhu Y., Murali S., Cai W., Li X., Suk J. W., Potts J. R. and Ruoff R. S., Advanced materials, 22, 3906-3924, (2010). Bunch J. S., Van Der Zande A. M., Verbridge S. S., Frank I. W., Tanenbaum D. M., Parpia J. M., Craighead H. G. and McEuen P. L., Science, 315, 490-493, (2007). Schedin F., Geim A. K., Morozov S. V., Hill E. W., Blake P., Katsnelson M. I. and Novoselov K. S., Nature materials, 6, 652-655, (2007). Vincent M., De Lázaro I. and Kostarelos K., Gene therapy, 24, 123-132, (2017). Shadjou N., Hasanzadeh M. and Khalilzadeh B., Bioengineered, 9, 38-47, (2018). Yang Y., Asiri A. M., Tang Z., Du D. and Lin, Y., Materials today, 16, 365-373, (2013). Venkatesan J., Pallela R. and Kim S. K., Journal of biomedical nanotechnology, 10, 3105-3123, (2014). Lu J., He Y. S., Cheng C., Wang Y., Qiu L., Li D. and Zou D., Advanced Functional Materials, 23, 34943502, (2013). Du Y., Ge J., Li Y., Ma P. X. and Lei B., Biomaterials, 157, 40-50, (2018). Nyambat B., Chen C. H., Wong P. C., Chiang C. W., Satapathy M. K. and Chuang E. Y., Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 6, 979-990, (2018). Guo R., Zhang S., Xiao M., Qian F., He Z., Li D., Zhang X., Li H., Yang X., Wang M. and Chai R., Biomaterials, 106, 193-204, (2016). Silva G. A., Nature Reviews Neuroscience, 7, 65-74, (2006). Ahadian S., Ramón-Azcón J., Chang H., Liang X., Kaji H., Shiku H., Nakajima K., Ramalingam M., Wu H., Matsue T. and Khademhosseini A., RSC Advances, 4, 9534-9541, (2014). Frontiñán-Rubio J., Gómez M. V., Martín C., GonzálezDomínguez J. M., Durán-Prado M. and Vázquez E., Nanoscale, 10, 11604-11615, (2018). Kim J., Kim Y. R., Kim Y., Lim K. T., Seonwoo H., Park S., Cho S. P., Hong B. H., Choung P. H., Chung T. D. and Choung Y. H., Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 1, 933-938, (2013). Podila R., Moore T., Alexis F. and Rao A. M., RSC advances, 3, 1660-1665, (2013). Li M., Liu Q., Jia Z., Xu X., Cheng Y., Zheng Y., Xi T. and Wei S., Carbon, 67, 185-197, (2014). Li W., Wang J., Ren J. and Qu X. Advanced Materials, 25, 6737-6743, (2013).

❑❑❑ March - April 2020

477

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

UNIT ACTIVITY Director, Textile Engineering Group, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. & Seminar Chairman; Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Seminar Convenor; Mr. Navin Agarwal, Seminar Jt. Convener; Mr. A. A. Bambardekar, Works Director, Raymond Limited (Textile Division Vapi) was the Guest of Honor; Mr. Vikas Saran, Vice President, TAI Mumbai Unit & Director-India Operations, Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., and Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI Mumbai Unit were present on the dais.

The Textile Association (India) TAI - Mumbai Unit Successfully organised Vapi Seminar on OPPORTUNITIES FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN CHALLENGING SCENARIO After its enormous success in Vapi, The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit once again organized One Day Seminar on "Opportunities for Textile Industry in Challenging Scenario" on 29th February, 2020 at Hotel Fortune Park Galaxy, Vapi (Gujarat).

Inaugural Session: Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomed the Chief Guest, Key Note Speaker and Guests of Honour. He also welcomed the Awardees, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates.

The seminar was inaugurated by Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala, Chairman, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit said that our Unit always takes keen interest in the latest developments in the textile industry and had organised seminars on important topics like weaving, fabric forming, etc in Vapi region which were very successful. He further said that Mumbai Unit recently organised two important International Conferences on the latest topic of "Textile 4.0" which were very successful and appreciated by all. Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener of the Seminar while giving the highlights said that this seminar is organised to discuss the Opportunities for the textile industry in the challenging scenario. The Speakers and Panel Members will show the roadmap for the opportunities available in the upcoming trends of business and he was sure that the interaction in the seminar will be highly productive and beneficial.

Chief Guest, Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala, Chairman, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd. and other dignitaries on the dais lighting the lamp

Chief Guest, Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala delivering his inaugural address

Mr. G. V. Aras, Director, Textile Engineering Group, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. delivered the Key Note Address and said that there are lot of opportunities in the textile industry but we are not able to grab them to prove ourselves in the international market. We don't have the capacity for bulk manufacturing which can fulfil the requirements of big buyers. He also explained that due to logistics and disintegrated activities in the textile industry causing the increase in the cost of product.

At the inaugural session, Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala, Chairman, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd. was the Chief Guest inaugurated the Seminar. Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit; Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI Mumbai Unit; Mr. G. V. Aras,

He also emphasized that due to Corona Virus problems in China the production capacity has been considerably reduced and hence Indian textile industry has tremendous opportunity to increase the productivity and grab the international market.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

478

March - April 2020

UNIT ACTIVITY

Key Note Speaker, Mr. G. V. Aras addressing the gathering

Mr. Haresh Panchal, Managing Director, Rabatex Industries receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the hands of Chief Guest.

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit felicitated Mr. Madhubhai Mangukia, Chairman & Managing Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd. with "The Lifetime Achievement Award" and Mr. Haresh Panchal, Managing Director, Rabatex Industries with "The Industrial Excellence Award" for their outstanding contribution in the field of textile industry.

Guest of Honour, Mr. A. A. Bambardekar addressing the gathering

Mr. A. A. Bambardekar, Works Director, Raymond Limited (Textile Division Vapi) while addressing the gathering said we must adopt new technology to reduce the cost which will automatically increase our profitability. He further said that the young students should enter in to textile industry as they have innovative ideas and explained that working of his entire unit can be accessed on a mobile app developed by this new generation.

Releasing Book of Papers by Chief Guest and dignitaries on the dais

Mr. Madhubhai Mangukia, Chairman & Managing Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd. receiving The Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest March - April 2020

Dignitaries Sitting in the Auditorium 479

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

UNIT ACTIVITY Mr. Navin P. Agrawal, Jt. Convener of the Seminar gave the introduction of the Chief Guest.

Panel Discussions:

Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala, Chairman, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd. while giving his inaugural address said that whenever there is a crisis there is an opportunity. The Global Corona virus problem in China has given the Indian textile industry an opportunity which we should not miss. India has the potential and the young generation now has to take up this task and plan a strategy to achieve success. At the Panel Discussion Session, L to R: Mr. Sumit Gupta, Deputy Director, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Mr. Vikas Sharan, Director - India Operations, Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Rajiv Ranjan, Executive Director & CEO, Hindoostan Mills Ltd., Mr. Pratik R. Bachkaniwala, Director, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd., Mr. R. R. Patil, CEO & Managing Director, Gokak Textiles Ltd., Mr. Navin P. Agrawal, Vice President, Textile Engineering-Fabric Forming, A.T.E. Enterprises P. Ltd.

Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, proposed Vote of Thanks. Technical Session: During the technical session, following papers were presented by the eminent speakers. Mr. Vikram Shah, Vice President, Rabatex Industries presented the paper on "Advanced Development in Preparation of Fabric Sampling".

A Panel Discussion on the topic 'Developments in Textile Industry to meet Emerging Market Trends' was featured as the last event of the seminar. The discussion moderated by Mr. Rajiv Ranjan, ED & CEO of Hindoostan Mills Ltd., had leaders from the textile industry on the panel who came up with some radical thoughts which could be helpful to the textile industry.

Mr. Apurva Jariwala, Branch Head - Surat, Textile Engineering - Fabric Forming, A. T. E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on "New Developments in Warp Knitting". Mr. Babasaheb V. Alugade, Regional Sales Manager, Picanol India Pvt. Ltd. made the presentation on "Latest trend in Weaving".

Mr. Sumit Gupta, Dy. Director, Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) talked about the importance of compliance to global standards in today's business especially as our business grows in the field of organic textiles.

Mr. S. Ramasubramanian, Dy. General Manager, Batliboi Textile Machinery Group presented the paper on "Revolutionary Continuous Modular Overflow Washing Range Wanny by Pentek, Italy".

Mr. Vikas Sharan, Director-India Operations, Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., stressed upon the importance of working towards increasing our scale and competitiveness in the field of apparel manufacturing and branding especially in the current scenario of an opportunity to increase our market share in this field.

Mr. Badruddin Khan, Sr. Manager - Product Management Team, Multi Commodity Exchange of India Ltd. (MCX) presented the paper on "Awareness Programme on Kapas & Cotton Price Risk Management". Mr. Deepak Sabarad, Sr. Sales Manager, Voltas Limited presented the paper on "Whole Garment by Shima Seiki".

He also touched upon the importance of taking steps to increase India's global market share in man-made fibre products, where we are lagging. He talked about the importance of logistics playing a pivotal role in catapulting India to that platform from where rapid and on-time delivery to any destination in the world could be possible.

Mr. N.S.K. Srinivasan & Mr. Hasmukh Shah, Umta Management & Texstyles Academy made the presentation on "Smart Textiles an Opportunity for Textile Industry In Challenging Scenario". Journal of the TEXTILE Association

480

March - April 2020

UNIT ACTIVITY quality competitiveness. Productivity was becoming a key factor across the entire textile value chain. He also stressed upon the need for skilling workers through proper training so as to increase their efficiency to meet global standards.

Mr. Pratik Bachkaniwala, Director, Palod Himson machines Pvt. Ltd., spoke upon the subject as a whole concept. He said that to meet the demands of the market we not only need to focus and innovate upon the product services, supply chain, logistics, marketing, finance and distribution network but most importantly also focus on the importance of attitude building which is very critical in today's marketplace.

The talk by the panellists was followed up with some very good questions and comments by members of the audience. Mr. Gurudas Aras talked about the importance of various associations across the industry value chain putting up a united face to the world while Mr. Rahul Bhajekar mentioned about the need of integrity in doing business today. This was followed by probing questions from the group of students and others attending the seminar on the issue of employment in the industry and other topics which was ably handled by the panel members.

Mr. R. R. Patil, MD & CEO, Gokak Mills Ltd., took up the point on cost effectiveness for increasing our competitiveness. Power cost being a major burden in the current scenario, companies could look at solar power, where the rates are going down every day, as a major cost reducer. Mr. Navin Agrawal, Vice President, Textile Engineering-Fabric Forming, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd., spoke about the need to upgrade to modern machines with high productivity and automation to maintain cost and

The seminar was a grand success and was attended by over 225 delegates.

TAI - M. P. Unit TAI M.P. Unit organized Program on Union Budget 2020-21 On 2nd February, 2020, a Program on Union Budget 2020-21 was organized by The Textile Association (India) M. P. Unit jointly with The Madhya Pradesh Textile Mills and others. of the middle class, dual system of taxation has been introduced. The younger generation, which is not inclined to save for the future will be benefitted and will have more money to spend. The disinvestment of Rs.2.10 lakh crore will certainly provide extra funds for infrastructure developments in the Country. The present GDP is around 5% and to achieve the target of US$ 5.00 trillion economy by 2025 appears quite difficult with the present growth rate.

The speakers included Dr. Jayantilal Bhandari, CA Subhash Deshpande, Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari, Dr. P. N. Mishra, etc. They werewelcomed by Shri Kailash Agrawal, Shri Ashok Veda and M. C. Rawat etc.

CA Subhash Deshpande highlighted the proposed provisions of Section 10(23)C of the Income Tax Act, which requires all the Charitable Trusts presently availing Section 12 AA benefits to re-register themselves after 30th June, 2020. This will be a big task for the Department as well as for the Trusts. He welcomed the revised provisions regarding Capital Gains Tax, removal of Dividend Distribution Tax and faceless appeals, etc.

Dr. Jayantilal Bhandari speaking on the occasion stated that with a view to increase the spending power March - April 2020

481

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

UNIT ACTIVITY Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari was critical of the Budget provisions and was of the view that it will dis-incentivize savings and disinvestment of LIC will be a setback to the LIC policy holders. He was of the view that instead of giving tax relief to corporate sector, it should have been given to unemployed youth by way of an allowance. Dr. P. N. Mishra emphasized for equitable distribution of wealth, total abolition of personal tax, introduction of agricultural income tax for high income groups, etc. Shri M. C. Rawat explained the Budget provisions relating to Textile Sector including National Technical Textiles Mission, introduction of Scheme of RoDT, removal of Anti-dumping Duty on PTA, introduction of NIRVIK Scheme for exporters, etc. At the end Shri Awadhesh Sharma proposed the vote of thanks.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

482

March - April 2020

UNIT ACTIVITY Shree Textiles, Rishra, West Bengal and National President, Shri Ashok Juneja were the guest of honor for this function.

TAI - W. Bengal Unit TAI WB Unit successfully celebrated 69th Annual Conference The Textile Association (India) West Bengal Unit celebrated, 69th, Annual Conference on "Scope and Prospect of Natural Fibre based Textile Manufacturing" on Saturday the 7th March, 2020 at Kennedy Hall, Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta,Kolkata.

A group photo. L to R: Shri JiwrajSethia, President TAI W.B. Unit, Shri Ashok Juneja, National President TAI,Shri. Manmohan Singh, President Jayashree Textiles (Grasim Industries) and other Members of Executive Committee.

Sri Manmohan Singh, President Jayashree Textiles (Grasim Industries) lighting the inaugural Lamp along with National President Mr. Ashok Juneja and Mr.A.K.Mukherjee (Hon. Secretary W.B. Unit)

Prof.AnirbanDutta, E.C. Member felicitating Shri JiwarajSethia, President, TAI W.B. Unit.

Conference Souvenir is released by the Dignitaries on the dais.

Shri JiwrajSethia, President - TAI West Bengal Unit delivered his welcome Address. Prof.Sadhan Chandra Roy, Chairman TAI West Bengal Unit highlighted in detailed about the Conference.

View of the Audience

Conference was inaugurated by Shri Manmohan Singh, President and Unit head, Grasim Industries Ltd., Jaya

Shri Ashok Junejapresented his special keynote address and highlighted about the TAI activities on this

March - April 2020

483

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

UNIT ACTIVITY special occasion. Dr. N.C. PAN, Director, Nation Institute of Natural Fibre Engineering and Technology (NINFET) (ICAR), Kolkata addressed the gathering. Also Prof. (Dr.) Debasish Das, Head, Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta addressed the gathering.

presentation in two sessions. First session was chaired by Dr.Sadhan Chandra Roy and 2nd session was chaired by Dr. Sunil Sett. Manmohan Singh mainly discussed about the need of use Natural Fibre like Flux, Hemp and Wool for eco-friendly aspect of these fibres.

Shri Asoke Kumar Mukherjee, Honorary Secretary TAI, West Bengal Unit proposed the vote of thanks.

National President TAI Shri AshokeJuneja narrated the past and present scenario of the Textile Association (India) by computer disc in detail about the activities of the Association in India.

About 200 participants were present from Textile, Jute, Garments and Hosiery Industries, Research Scientist, Professors, lecturers of education Institute and student were also present from various Textile Institute. Conference was a great success.

Mementos were presented to Shri Manimohan Singh and Sri Ashok Junea on behalf of West Bengal Unit for the remembrance of the very occasion.

Eight papers were presented on various topics, which were enjoyed by participants papers distributed for

Conference ended with a Lucky Draw among the students and participants.

TAI developed Online Membership Registration Form The Textile Association (India) developed an Online Membership Registration Form, which is uploaded on TAI website www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/ It is made simple to enroll Life Time / Patron Membership online. Following process is to fill-up the form: ◆ Open TAI website, click on Membership on Main Menu Bar. ◆ Click on Application Forms, where there are two sub-menu titles (Manual Form and Online Form). ◆ Before filling the Online Form, Bank payment transaction is required for New Members. ◆ Also, Scan copy/file of your Photo and Aadhar Card should be kept ready for attaching to the form. ◆ Clicking on Online Form, A MEMBERSHIP Online Registration Form will appear. ◆ Entire form to be filled and ensure that all columns are filled. There are some Mandatory Fields. If any columns are not filled in, it will show an error. ◆ Once fully filled Form is SUBMIT ted, a reply will be seen as Your FORM is received successfully. Thanks. Confirmation of membership is subject to the approval of the Scrutiny Committee. In case, if you are unable to open the website, please write below link in Browser to fill-up the form. https://www.textileassociationindia.org/membership-online-form/ For any assistant, please contact TAI Central Office. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

484

March - April 2020

NEWS

Lockdown ments sealed by humans as against all other creatures are free to cross all borders set by Humans. Hence my humble request to all human beings to restart your activities with re correcting yourself. List out what are essentials to leave active & healthy in your personal as well as professional life. We should ask questions ourselves.

By Vilas Gharat President, TheTextile Association (India) - MumbaiUnit

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Author Vilas Gharat

How many times you have opened your Wardrobe? How many times you have used your vehicle? How much money you have spent for hoteling? How much money you have spent on new clothes or fancy items. Many more questions……... ?

Many of us may not be getting maid services but we have been sharing all daily work as family together. Hence let us re-design activities for excellent future. CORONA has given us opportunity to correct before restart. CORONA has taught us how to remain in our boundary with restrictions. The industry experts are giving their valuable inputs for better future but as a dedicated textile worker I appeal my friends working in textile units to just to think of my take for future. This is for your kind information that Indian Textile Industry flourished in 1st& 2nd World War. And its 3rd World War not against any human or country. It is against our wrong behaviour against Nature. 1. 2.

3. It is unpredicted or unplanned life we all are observing since 23rd march 2020 & still not aware how long it may continue. There are many respectable people has been giving various statistics & forecasts which is very informative / valuable. I just would like to share how I take it just for your information.

4. 5. 6.

Corona Varese is created by Humans & can spread by Humans only. It is nothing to do with Nature & hence I take it as Wake-Up Call to Humans. I believe that is not Disaster but it is Corrector. If you observe last few days compare to last many years your priorities are changed about life & you are easily fulfilling all essential requirements.

7. 8. 9.

We have sufficient Raw Material & Skilled Workforce to feed our nation. We have been making varieties of fabric. We have different machines with different technology for these Products. Please prepare list of products you can make out of your present set up & establish products as per present requirements with desire specifications. You may get specifications from Textile Ministry / WHO / DGSD / ATIRA etc. There are requirements of Urgent Nature to fight out present situation & it is an opportunity for us. Similarly, there are huge requirements of essentials in all Hospitals or Camps. Educate workers with corrected work practices. CORONA taught us to be self-sufficient in keeping cleanliness for 24*7 is key success. Let us Lockdown our Ego for stress-free life & come out as winner. So, be creative not Critic.

We are in Lockdown condition with borders of moveMarch - April 2020

485

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

A.T.E. conducts seminar on End-to-end solutions for carpet manufacturing A technical seminar entitled "End-to-end solutions for carpet manufacturing" was jointly organised by A.T.E. and J Zimmer, Austria, at The Ramada, Alleppey on February 11, 2020. In Kerala, Alleppey and Cherthala are well known for the manufacturing of door mats from coir and jute. In fact, Kerala's coir and coir products are said to be the finest in the world. Following the worldwide shift towards eco-friendly products, there is an increasing demand for Kerala's coir products in international markets - especially in Africa, Latin America and the Middle East. This global demand is encouraging the entrepreneurs in the coir industry to make use of the latest technologies in digital printing automation. Entrepreneurs are also looking at materials other than coir and jute to increase the varieties of home textiles they have to offer.

of ink and chemicals for digital printing in India. The seminar was a resounding success. The owners and representatives of more than 35 carpet manufacturing companies in and around Alleppey attended the seminar. The function was inaugurated with a welcome address by Mr. M.Rajinikanth, Deputy General Manager, A.T.E., with a short introduction about A.T.E. and Zimmer. Mr. Martin Basset, Sales Manager of J Zimmer spoke about various digital printing technologies such as Chromojet and Colaris. Mr. Basset also explained the cost economics of carpet printing, which was particularly interesting for the audience. Mr. Ashok Swamy, General Manager, A.T.E. then gave the audience an overview about A.T.E.'s capabilities to provide end-toend solutions in carpet manufacturing. Attractive printed carpet samples were also displayed at the event.

Considering the growing interest among customers in advanced technologies for carpet manufacturing, A.T.E. Enterprises, along with J Zimmer, Austria, organised this technical seminar. The seminar was supported by AYM Syntex - a premium carpet yarn manufacturer, and Jaysynth Group - one of the largest manufacturers

These presentations lead to a lively round of questions and answers, which saw active participation by the audience.

Arvind unveils "United by Indigo" Festive 2020 collection "Sensation, Reflection and # Lit, highlight this year's theme of United by Indigo" Latest offering of innovative, stylish & high-performance denim & apparel for India

Denims have evolved in the past 150 years from being Miners Workwear to Poor Man's Utility, to a hallmark of rebellious youth, into high fashion sensibilities. Today, Denims have found acceptance as Lifestyle Apparel and people from all walks of life, gender & age groups wear Jeans as a 24X7 product. Be it for work, party or play, denim is in demand!

An exclusive glimpse into Arvind'sProject Indigo Life representing an indigo inspired lifestyle Journal of the TEXTILE Association

486

March - April 2020

NEWS Indian Jeanswear market has been consistently growing in double digits. Jeans have made inroads into Corporate Wear. Women's changing lifestyle & preferences are favoring Jeanswear. Youngsters transition seamlessly from their work routines into the party & out door mode, in the same pair of Jeans. Demands on aesthetics, performance & functionality of Denim fabric & Apparel are expanding very quickly.

At the unveiling held in Mumbai today, Arvind Denims debuted the INFIKNITY Range, representing infinite possibilities in Indigo Inspired active wear Lifestyle, using a range of technology adaptations in Knitting. Also on display were the latest up-dates on the already popular range of MUTANTS that blend the ruggedness & durability of traditional Jeanswear with comfort & supple softness of real knits. The widely acknowledged BLOCKBUSTER range of Denims that Democratized Jeans for a wider Indian population, were also on display. Apart from these, up-dates in the AZURITE, BOOMERANG & SELF-EDGE range of products were well appreciated. At the core of the collection is the centraltheme of"Sensation", with surfaces & hand feel that tease our senses & make us feel plush, warm & cared for. Talking about the latest United by Indigo Festive 2020 collection,Mr. Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Denims said, "This collection celebrates the potential of collaborations and technology lead innovation. We are constantly inspired by the Consumer's free spirited pursuit of an experiential lifestyle. Our shared passion & love for Indigo unites and binds us. The Indian Festive Season is a celebration of the Human spirit. We have chosen three mood boards, namely Sensation, Reflection and #LIT that represent our view on the season." Arvind recognizes the criticalrole oftrade channel partners in expanding its reach into the Indian Denim Market. It actively collaborates with its Channel Partners to study & respond to emerging consumer trends across all segments of the denim market.Caring for the environment, Economic & Social Impact, are a way of life at Arvind and it is a pioneer in making denims increasingly sustainable and eco-friendly.

Stimulated by the acceleration in the sector, Arvind, the $2 billion textile-to-technology conglomerate, announced the launch of its latest collection, United by Indigo - a collection for the forthcoming Festive 2020 Season In India, that thoughtfully balances the legacy of authentic denim with future possibilities to capture the essence of the present-day global trends.The Lycra Company, a market leader in functional & performance speciality - stretch yarn technology, Co-hosted today's event. They have been Arvind's Innovation partner since many years and have collaborated to deliver multiple unique & successful products to the Indian market.

March - April 2020

For further information, please contact: Arvind Ltd. Khantil Shah Head - Corporate & Brand Communication khantil.shah@arvind.in Six Degrees BCW NandniSharma / DebanginyParasar Tel: 09851340340 / 08017076105 nandni.sharma@sixdegrees-bcw.com; debanginy.parasar@sixdegrees-bcw.com

487

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

ColorJet Launches Initiative Encouraging Printing Industry to Contribute for PM Cares Fund ◆ ◆ ◆

ColorJet launches initiative to encourage industry to help fight against COVID-19 ColorJet initiates with a contribution of Rs 5 Lakhs to PM Cares Fund Initiative sees successful response from industry partners across the globe

totalled INR 725,816 received from 118 donors, with donations also pouring in from industry partners in UAE, USA, Japan, etc.ColorJet is reaching out toits associates, partners and customers in the inkjet printing industry through conference calls, emails and social media. "ColorJet being an industry leader has been playing a proactive part in the fight against the Corona Virus pandemic. At the onset of this outbreak, we took several initiatives to protect our employees by maintaining social distancing and regular sanitisation. We decided to launch this campaign to motivate all our industry partners to donate generously for this cause. Only by coming together, we will be able to fight through these difficult andunimaginable times," Mr.Smarth Bansal, DGM-Product & Brand at ColorJet said.

In response to the honourable Indian Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi's call to donate to the PM Cares Fund, to help fight the Covid-19 menace, wide format inkjet digital printer manufacturer Colorjet Group, has started a campaign to help the government by encouraging its associates, customers and industry partners to contribute to the fund.

"The ongoing COVID-19 crisis is making an unprecedented impact on the world and it is not going to pass in a hurry and it will take its time and toll on us. At this time, when the society is facing such an immense crisis, whatever individual efforts we put is good, but by coming together, our collective synergy can help overcome this crisis better. We are constantly monitoring the situation and would be ready to cooperate with the government in any capacity to help fight this pandemic," Mr.Madhu Sudan Dadu, Chairman at ColorJet added.

"People from all walks of life expressed their desire to donate to India's war against COVID-19. Respecting that spirit, the Prime Minister's Citizen Assistance and Relief in Emergency Situations Fund has been constituted. This will go a long way in creating a healthier India. Kindly contribute to the PM-CARES Fund," PM Modi had said while launching the fund.

To contribute, please visit: www.colorjetgroup.com/covid19 Media Contacts: Mr Faisal Shakeel ColorJet India Ltd Cell: +91 78279-57563 E-mail: faisal.shakeel@colorjetgroup.com Arun Rao Taurus Communications Ahmedabad Cell: +91 98250-38518 E-mail: arun@tauruscomm.net

To kick off this initiative, ColorJet has donated INR 500,000 to the PM Cares Fund and has alsocreated a dedicated page to donate on the ColorJetwebsite. All contributions getdirectly transferred to the PM Cares Fund, with ColorJet acting only as an intermediate. ColorJet will also be giving certificates of appreciation to all donors. ColorJet has set a goal to generate contributions amounting to INR 2.5 million and till date the donations have

The creative approach to supercharge your brand Journal of the TEXTILE Association

488

March - April 2020

NEWS

CONGRATULATIONS Dear TAI Members,

Dear Sir / Mam, Greetings from TAI !!

At the outset, the Managing Committee conveys the heartiest congratulations to all members of the TAI on the 81st anniversary of the Incorporation Day of our association. Established on 9th April 1939, we are the oldest association of technocrats, formed by and for the technocrats. In all these years, TAI has extended its services to the industry with your support & valuable contribution.

We are pleased to inform you that The Textile Association (India) has completed 81 years of its successful journey. Established on 9th April 1939, we are the oldest association of technocrats, formed by and for the technocrats. In all these years, TAI has extended its services to the industry with your support & valuable contribution. We took this opportunity to convey our thanks to all organizations like you who supported us during these years in one or the other way.

We also wish to convey our thanks to all organizations, which have supported us during these years in one or the other way. It is our privilege that in the past our All India Textile Conference, which is organized annually for the last 75 years, was inaugurated by various eminent personalities including Hon. President, Prime Minister, Cabinet Ministers, Governor & Chief Ministers of various states.

It is our privilege to put on record that in the past our All India Textile Conference, which is organized annually for the last 75 years, was inaugurated by various eminent personalities including Hon. President, Prime Minister, Cabinet Ministers, Governor & Chief Ministers of various states.

TAI also had an opportunity to confer Honorary Membership for their distinguished contribution towards the growth of textile Industry of India to highly respected personalities like Shri Nazir Ahmed, Shri Kasturbhai Lalbhai, Shri K.M.D. Thackercy, Shri Gulzarilal Nanda, Shri homo Modi, Shri G. D. Birla, Shri G. D. Ambekar, Dr. Vikram Sarabhai, Shri Arvind Mafatlal, Shri Naval H. Tata, Shri Padampat Singhania, Shri Neville Wadia, Hon. Maj. R. P. Paddar, Shri Gaur Hari Singhania, Shri Dhirubhai H. Ambani, Shri K. K. Birla, Shri Abhaykumar S. Kasliwal, Shri Mukesh D. Ambani and such many more.

It is my proud privilege to lead such a prestigious association where we have had esteemed prior Presidents like but not limited to Late Dr. Nazir Ahmed, Late Shri Homi Modi, Late Dr. Vikram Sarabhai, Late Shri N. V. Ullal, Late Maj. R. P. Poddar, Shri J. J Randheri, Shri R. K. Dalmia, and Shri M. K. Mehra, Shri R. K. Dalmia, Shri R. C. Kesar, Dr. Mathivanan, Dr. P. R. Roy & many more such.

Once again sincere thanks for your continuous support to TAI during the successful journey of 81 years.

Wishing everyone good health in these unprecedented COVID-19 times. Stay safe!

Best Wishes & Kind Regards.

Ashok Juneja (National President -TAI) +91 9891593332

Ashok Juneja (National President -TAI) +91 9891593332 March - April 2020

489

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

Coronavirus / lockdown ---- impact on textile industry By Ashok Juneja, National President, TAI raw material & electricity expenses are not been incurred but rest all expenses are direct loss to mill owner. There are various other issues like what will happened to material which were in process, it may go in second quality. All shipments are getting hold, LC will expire may result a renegotiation of prices etc. Definitely it will not be so smooth and easy path to restart after lock down. Apparel industry will be severely hit as all over the world. Stores are closed and no sales are happening almost all buyers are cancelling orders or postponing orders as they have very big inventories, and they may not place further committed orders in next few months. The daily wage worker that forms 80%of the workforce in garment factories is on road or back to their hometown. The challenge does not end here as the virus has impacted India's major export destinations US and EU the worst affected areas. It will be very difficult to say when these countries will return to normal life; if they return how soon consumers will start spending as these lockdown will cause unemployment also. Retail chains are drastically cancelling orders and keeping shipments on hold; till the time they do not get rid of old stock new orders will not pour in. Total supply chain is broken. Now, challenges are Safety, lack of supply & demand in addition to liquidity. Opportunities may be Medical Textile Products We Indians are God fearing peoples & believefirmly indestiny. We also know that tides will turn and take a different path. Most of the world was dependent on China now that dependency mode will change it will benefit countries like India. If India succeeds in this 21 day lockdown period or earliest possible and fights backs without much loss then it will be back to business cycle soon because ultimately food and clothing will remain the key purchases. The volumes might go down but it will not disappear. Once life is back to normal people will shop also as months of lockdown and depression will motivate them to buy something new, look good and feel good. Many are seeing this as a correction period but we hope that this correction does not take away livelihood of anyone today or tomorrow. In these tough times we all are together and keeping you updated about industry and global scenario is our duty. All machinery manufacturers have also suspended their operation. Neither they are in position to produce the machines nor are customers in position to accept the delivery. Even once the machinery manufacturer will be

Coronavirus: It is a war with an invisible enemy. The virus that started with Wuhan China has now impacted almost all parts of the world and is seen as one of the worst periods in human history. With lockdown of almost all major economies including China, US, Europe and now the recent being India is not only shaken up human race but also economies of all these countries. It is almost like world war 3 where the fight is not with any state or country but with an invisible enemy which knocks door anytime anywhere irrespective of caste, religion or country. For the past few weeks, what we as a country and world have seen is unimaginable. We have been part of many conversations on what happened; how did this spread; was China at fault; why did the Government did not take appropriate steps from the beginning; Italy pays big price of callous attitude and many more theories. However, now our concern is not all this but the future of Textile industry. The demand for the textile products and also for the domestic sales has come down to a grinding halt due to the panic situation created by the outbreak of COVID19. As we all know Textile Industry is very unique nature of Industry having various segments. Interest of each segments are different and it is being seen in the past that even sometimes it clashes between the segments. Due to lockdown all factories small or big, spinning, weaving, garmenting & all allied etc. are closed and it cannot be said clearly when they will be allowed again to operate? We all witnessed how labour has been running here and there amidst all confusion as a desperate measure to safeguard his family from hunger. There is scare among the business community on account of cash crunch, supply chain disturbance & man power related issues. Dr. Ralph Mennickeappointed as CEO at LoepfeWe have more than 2000 spinning mills pan India with different spindles capacity. Big units which are controlled by big corporate houses are having labour residing in the labour colony adjoining the premises. Majority of labours are migrated from Bihar, UP, Orissa etc. and at present they are being taken care by employers. It is also pondered whether labour is staying at their wish or they were forced to stay as they were not having any mean of transport once the lockdown is announced. Further, it is question mark once the lockdown is lifted whether they will stay to work or rush to their homeland to check about their family members. At present, may be only Journal of the TEXTILE Association

490

March - April 2020

NEWS strong culture and stable financial having a good amount of cash in books are expected to recover faster than others. The small & medium level companies will comparatively find tough to bounce back. Whereas it will be do or die for weaker amongst them. We should start preparing to face the challenges which are being foreseeing ahead without much dependent on government relief, which may come but up to some extent. We also have to learn the lesson from the crisis like not to depend upon only one source of supply, shift towards localization, move towards variable cost models etc. Many global would shift buying from China to other textile producing countries including India subject to preparation & acceptance of challenge by Indian Textile Industry.

able to start the production, customers may not be able to accept the delivery may be for another 3 to 4 months from start of operations. As per recent survey of ITMF about the impact of Corona pandemic on the global textile industry, it says worldwide average @8% orders are dropped and expected turnover of 2020 will be down by @ 10% over 2019. So, to conclude situation not good for any one and also may not be easy for anyone to restart the operation. On opening up after the lock down, industry may take a much longer time to recover It may be minimum 4-6 months to see back the normal business like situation, Even difficult to estimate the direct losses at present and difficult to foresee the issues will arise after the lifting of lockdown. Company with inbuilt strength in terms of

Dr. Ralph Mennickeappointed as CEO at Loepfe Loepfe announced today the appointment of Dr. Ralph Mennicke as Chief Executive Officer of Loepfe Brothers Ltd., effective from April 14, 2020. Ralph Mennicke takes over from Maurizio Wermelinger who, having joined Loepfe in 2007, became CEO in 2009 and is now retiring. The Loepfe Board of Directors appointed Ralph Mennicke as CEO to lead the company and its subsidiaries. Loepfe is the worldwide leading manufacturer and solution partner for online quality assurance systems in the textile sector. Machine manufacturers as well as spinning mills Dr. Ralph Mennicke and weaving mills around the globe use and rely on Loepfe technology from Switzerland. Ralph Mennicke is a Graduate of Technical University of Munich, University of York, Mannheim and ESSEC Business Schools. He holds an MSc and PhD in Physics and an Executive MBA. Previously, Ralph Mennicke has held positions as CEO, Deputy CEO, General Manager and Product Manager, as well as interim Head of Technology, Product Management and Marketing. Since completing his PhD, Ralph Mennicke has contributed to technology, product and market expansion and acquisitions, as well as providing inspired and effective leadership during times of crisis in his previous company.

Loepfe CEO Dr. Ralph Mennicke said: "Despite the current difficult business environment as I begin my role as CEO of Loepfe, my commitment to taking our business and our people on a journey where we will seek to grow and grasp future upsides has never been greater. As in my previous roles, at Loepfe my strategy will continue to focus on leveraging committed talents, superior technology and unique market knowledge to gain and maintain a competitive edge in the markets. It is my very good fortune to be joining Loepfe from a company now experiencing a dynamic growth environment, and also to follow Maurizio Wermelinger who led Loepfe for more than a decade and established the company's reputation in the textile industry with some world-leading product brands. As well as Maurizio, I also thank the Loepfe Board of Directors and the Loepfe team for placing their trust in me to lead them through this tough period." Loepfe Executive Chairman Alexander Zschokke commented: "The Loepfe Group extends a big thank-you to Maurizio for his long, loyal and successful lead of the company, as well as a very warm welcome to Ralph. We are delighted to have Ralph on board to steer Loepfe through the challenging phase arising from the COVID19 pandemic, and beyond. Furthermore, we are confident that Loepfe is in a strong position to emerge from this time with renewed vigour and sustained growth." For more details, please contact: Loepfe Brothers Ltd. SilvanoAuciello, Kastellstrasse 10, 8623 Wetzikon, Switzerland

In his quest to set industry benchmarks and deliver quality improvement for customers, Ralph Mennicke has also been heavily involved in global standardization activities within the sensor and measurement fields. March - April 2020

491

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

Oerlikon - First wiping robot successfully commissioned in India Automated wiping reduces yarn breaks

10% and string-up breaks by 40%. Consequently, full package rates have risen by 3%, while waste rates have fallen by 0.2%. "Yarn breaks are always an issue; they have a direct impact on the production figures. This is where the wiping robot reveals its added value", comments Stephan Faulstich, Technology Manager POY. The system automatically and autonomously controls the individual positions in accordance with the scheduled wiping cycles. In addition to the scheduled wiping processes, there are also events that cannot be planned or that are not immediately visible. Here, the wiping robot -as a result of its management functionalities -is able to identify issues such as yarn breaks or parallel wiping processes and to independently offer solutions. The same also applies to manual requests: if another action is simultaneously required here, the system identifies this and offers solutions.

Following its installation at several major yarn manufacturers in China, the first wiping robot has now been operating in India since the end of 2019. As already the case with our Chinese clients, the performance of the OerlikonBarmag solution there demonstrates the same properties: an even, highquality wiping process providing considerably reduced yarn break rates and higher full package rates. Regular wiping (cleaning) of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarn quality.

The wiping robot operates in a cross-line manner. In contrast to manual wiping, the cleaning quality remains constant around the clock, considerably reducing the impact of the wiping on both the spin-ning plant process stability and on the yarn data of the spun yarn. And production times can be in-creased between two cleaning cycles as well: whereas repeated wiping is required after 48 hours in the case of manual wiping, utilizing the robot extends the interval between two wiping processes to up to 60 hours. The considerable increase in the spinning process efficiency achieved by the wiping robot also has a positive impact on margins. To this end, one customer deploying the wiping robot was able to reduce its production costs for the same yarn by more than 3%.

All wiping positions, cycles and times can be saved in the wiping robot's management system.

For further information, please contact: Susanne Beyer Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 1526 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Therobot accesses the saved wiping intervals in an automated and safety-relevant manner

The performance data at the Indian yarn manufacturer was collated and evaluated over a period of three months. The results revealed that the yarn break rate has -regardless of the product -fallen by almost 30%. The former running time breaks have decreased by Journal of the TEXTILE Association

492

March - April 2020

NEWS

GOTS registers highest growth rate ever in 2019 7765 certified facilities worldwide, an increase of 35% with more than 3 million workers covered under GOTS in 2019.

each of the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals. More than 3 Million workers working in GOTS-certified facilities were reported in 2019 by the 17 accredited independent Certification Bodies.

In 2019, the number of GOTS certified facilities globally grew by 35%, from 5,760 to 7,765 located in 70 countries. The number demonstrates that GOTS successfully serves as sustainable solution. The required certified organic fibres protect the climate by absorbing CO2 and every processing step - from field to fashion - has to meet stringent social and environmental criteria before a finished product is allowed to carry the GOTS label.

2019 was also a GOTS revision year resulting in the new GOTS Version 6.0, due to be released in spring 2020. In the past five years, local exporters and international organisations have heavily invested in improving environmental and social conditions in Bangladesh. Bangladesh showed one of the highest growths this year with a 73% increase in GOTS certified facilities. The high level of interest in the GOTS Bangladesh Seminar 2019 is also reflected in the number of certified facilities.

This huge leap forward was seen in both, production and consuming regions. Countries with largest growth in GOTS-certification in percentage in 2019 are: Netherlands (73%), Bangladesh (73%), Spain (71%), and Turkey (65%). In terms of total numbers of certified facilities, the highest increase is reported from Bangladesh (+505), followed by India (+438) and Europe (+396).

India has been at the top position with highest number of GOTS certified facilities since 2008. This year, there was an increase of 438 GOTS-certified facilities in India. "With the whole supply chain from farm to retail, along with suppliers of GOTS Approved Chemical Inputs, India has a unique position in the organic textiles industry.

The top ten countries in terms of total numbers of GOTS-certified facilities in 2019 are: India (2411), Bangladesh (1194), Turkey (858), Germany (565), China (448), Italy (444), Portugal (301), Pakistan (276), USA (147), and the UK (75).

More than 10 Indian brands are offering GOTS labelled goods in Indian retail, while few others are using GOTS as a risk management tool and may start labelling in the future

"The enormous growth shows that GOTS successfully serves as sustainable solution from certified organic fibre to finished product. With more and more GOTS certified operations and products we altogether substantially contribute to sustainable development." Claudia Kersten, GOTS Managing Director.

For more information, please contact: Sumit Gupta GOTS Representative in India and Bangladesh gupta@global-standard.org www.global-standard.org

GOTS certification helps to ensure compliance with

Industry Feedback before restarting Industries after Lockdown By Vilas Gharat folding economic crisis. The reason: Falling or zero revenues that aren't compensated by measures such as loan forbearance.

We need much more government help, is industry's consistent message. The labour ministry plans to in493

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS Smaller ecommerce players are in almost a similar position. Vendors that sell 'inessential' items and are therefore hit hard say they can pay wages at most till the lockdown lasts. Raja Agarwal, who sells imitation jewellery on Flipkart and Amazon, said, "I've decided to pay my employees full salary for April. However, I will start to struggle if the lockdown extends."

crease unemployment benefits through Employees State Insurance scheme may not be enough given the scale of the problem, industry observers said. And industry is also asking whether government directions have any legal backing. The Disaster Management Act, for example, doesn't provide for a legal basis on continued payment of wages.

Restaurateurs struggling Restaurateurs are willing to pay salaries for a month, but working capital difficulties mean they can't extend it without direct government support. Karan Tanna of Ghost Kitchens, a cloud kitchen platform, said: "Everyone intends to pay staff salaries... but lack of rental waiver from landlords and negligible government support means we can't carry on."

Adding to this is labour absenteeism, which is a perverse outcome of the government's directive that workers must be paid even if they don't turn up for work. In some product categories, labour shortage may soon create supply shortages. ET spoke to industry captains, entrepreneurs, MSME owners and business associations for this story. Some spoke off record.

In some cases, even the promise of wages and benefits are not getting workers to attend because of the expectation that full wages will be paid even without showing up for work.

'Need Govt. help for welfare obligations' Most employers agree with the government that wage earners should not be made victims in this crisis. But they are asking whether their cash flows can get extra official help to fulfil welfare obligations.

"We have committed extra incentives… yet workers are not willing to report for work because they are shielded by government directives," said a top official at one of India's largest foods companies. A large retailer said half his workforce is not turning up.

Deepak Sood, secretary general of Assocham, said "pressure is mounting on working capital" and industry expects "banks to stretch their helping hand beyond RBI forbearances" and a "large fiscal package". CII president Vikram Kirloskar said in a statement that "it is critically important that we do not resort to retrenchment" but that costs were a concern.

A leading biscuits manufacturer based in the East said worker absenteeism has led to zero production in the past 10 days. The business head of a large FMCG company said: "The government order on paying full wages during the lockdown means workers are staying home."

The smaller industries, facing more cash flow problems, are more direct in their response. S. Singla, who runs a plastic tanks manufacturing unit in Baddi, Himachal Pradesh, was categorical: "The government can say anything. Will they pay the salaries? I will have to fire 20% of my workforce… We work on thin margins."

The executive of a leading FMCG firm said the company was evaluating legally whether the government's notice to pay full wages to labour during the lockdown was an order or a request. Demand destruction For large employers facing demand destruction, the problem of paying wages is severe. Textiles, the industry that's India's third largest employer, is in a quandary on how to keep paying salaries. J Suresh, MD of Arvind Fashions, said: "Our revenues are now zero. We can support workers for some time, but if this lockdown extends, it'll get very hard… we're hoping for govern-

MSMEs and SMEs are in a really tough spot. Chandrakant Salunkhe, founder of SME Chamber of India, said: "I fear that after two months, 500,000700,000 MSMEs will close down… we need much more government help." He added that most small units will be able to pay salaries for at most a month.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

494

March - April 2020

NEWS Manufacturing's constraints Manufacturing, another large employer, is also coming up against a cash flow constraint. Rishi Bagla, promoter of a medium-sized engineering group based in Maharashtra, said: "Workers have to be paid salaries at a time companies have no revenues for a month. Nobody can compensate for this loss. The government has to ask banks to step in."

ment subsidies for paying front line staff." J. Thulasidharan, president of the Indian Cotton Federation, was even more pessimistic: "About 95% of the industries will not be able to pay 100% wages for the lockdown period. We do not have the liquidity, having lost the peak seasonâ&#x20AC;Ś as per the Industrial Disputes Act, we are bound to pay 50% of the salary to workers for the layoff period caused due to some calamity. If we get some financial support from banks or the government, some mills might be able to pay the remaining salaries later."

Former president of All India Rice Exporters Association Vijay Sethia also stressed the need for government help - waiver of electricity charges and interest subvention by banks. This is echoed by Ajay Bansal, president of All India Petroleum Dealers Association, who wanted tax relief or power subsidies to help dealers pay wages at a time when pump sales have "dropped 90%".

Satish Koshti, who represents the powerloom industry of Ichalkaranji in Maharashtra, said, "Most of us have made arrangements for workers by paying them enough money to get food and other essentials. Paying full wages will be each mill owner's decision."

International Business News HNA bond suspended as coronavirus rattles Chinese conglomerate Trading in a bond issued by China's HNA Group was suspended in a sign of how liquidity problems at the heavily indebted conglomerate have worsened after the coronavirus pandemic buffeted capital markets, reported the Financial Times.

wide. It also controls Hainan Airlines, China's fourthlargest carrier. China revises trust industry rules to ease controls on foreign investors Chinese regulators are set to make it easier for overseas financial institutions to invest in China's $3 trillion trust industry as the government revises industry administrative rules for the first time in five years, reportedCaixin.

The Shanghai stock exchange said in a statement on Wednesday that trading in the seven-year, RMB 3 billion ($425 million) bond - issued by the company in 2015 was initially halted shortly after the market opened due to "abnormal fluctuations". After a brief resumption, trading was again stopped after the bond fell below 30% of its par value.

The China Banking and Insurance Regulatory Commission Tuesday released for public comments a draft revision to rules for administering the country's trust companies. It is the first revision to the document since June 2015.

The volatility came after HNA called a last-minute teleconference on Tuesday night to tell its investors of its intention to delay by a year both principal and interest payments for a separate bond issued in 2013 that had been due on April 15. On Wednesday, HNA publicly apologized for failing to give advanced warning of the meeting.

Compared with the current rules, the revised version removes an article requiring foreign companies to have at least $1 billion in total assets at the end of the previous fiscal year to be eligible to invest in Chinese trust companies. China's home prices return to growth in March as pandemic impact starts to ease New home prices in China returned to growth in March after stalling for the first time in five years in February, suggesting some pent-up demand as the impact from

HNA, based in southern China's Hainan province, is best known for its high profile debt spree in 2015 and 2016 in which it spent billions of dollars on assets including stakes in Deutsche Bank and Hilton WorldMarch - April 2020

495

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS During the month, China's smartphone shipments totaled 21 million units, down 21.9% year-on-year, according to a report released Monday by the China Academy of Information and Communications Technology (CAICT), a think tank affiliated with the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT). The March decline is more modest than that in February and January, when smartphone shipments fell 54.7% and 36.6%, respectively.

the coronavirus outbreak on the property market gradually fades, reported Reuters. Average new home prices in China's 70 major cities edged up 0.1% in March from the previous month, having been unchanged in February, according to Reuters calculations based on National Bureau of Statistics (NBS) data published on Thursday. On a year-on-year basis, home prices grew 5.3% in March, the slowest pace since June 2018, easing from a 5.8% uptick in February. The majority of the 70 cities surveyed by the NBS still reported monthly price increases for new homes, with the number rising to 38 from 21 in February.

Of all smartphones shipped in March, nearly 88% were Android-powered handsets, meaning that Apple shipped roughly 2.5 million iPhones in China during the period, the report said. In February, Apple shipped just about 500,000 phones in China.

China's major property developers, such as Evergrande, have been launching discounts and promotions to spur sales. Latest data from researcher CRIC shows sales of the top 100 developers surged 136.2% last month from February.

Taking the first three months of 2020 together, China's smartphone shipments dropped 34.7% year-on-year to 47.7 million units in the first quarter, according to the CAICT, milder than research firm IDC's previous estimate for a decline of 40% for the quarter.

Markets brace for first-quarter earnings declines Markets are braced for a decline in earnings at some of mainland China's biggest publicly traded companies, reported the South China Morning Post.

China's exports slump seen extending to March: Reuters poll The slump in China's exports is expected to have extended into March while a collapse in oil price likely deepened a decline in imports, a Reuters poll showed, as the coronavirus cripples the global economy and overall demand.

Firms ranging from Gree Electric Appliances to Wanda Film Holding have sounded the alarm, warning investors about worsening earnings, as the 3,897 companies listed on the Shanghai and Shenzhen exchanges kickoff the first-quarter reporting season this month.

Exports from the world's second-largest economy are expected to have fallen 14% in March from a year earlier, according to a median estimate from the survey of 31 economists, slowing the downturn somewhat from a 17.2% contraction in January-February period.

The results are expected to provide first insight over the next two weeks into the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on company profits.

Imports, meanwhile, are set to have shrunk 9.5% from a year earlier, the sharpest drop since July 2016 and versus a 4.0% decline in January-February.

Gree, China's biggest air-conditioner manufacturer, said it expected earnings for the first three months to drop between 70% and 77% from a year earlier for its biggest quarterly profit decline in at least a decade. It said the outbreak had disrupted sales and delayed the reopening of factories in upstream as well as downstream industries.

The grim trade report is likely to reinforce views that China's economy sharply contracted in the first quarter for the first time since at least 1992. Analysts are already forecasting a steep global recession this year as the virus has prompted worldwide restrictions on movement of people and goods.

China's falling smartphone shipments show signs of leveling off China's smartphone vendors suffered a third straight month of shipment contraction in March, as the coronavirus outbreak crippled production and dampened consumption, reportedCaixin.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

China's biggest carmaker posts 29% profit drop on industry slump SAIC Motor Corp., the biggest automaker in China, reported a 28.9% drop in earnings for last year as an industry-wide sales slump undermined manufacturers' 496

March - April 2020

NEWS Executives are determined to carry out the redundancies and most departments will be affected, according to one employee in the company's research department, who said that layoffs may affect as much as 20% of the company's staff. Company Chairman Zhou Houjian said earlier this year that Hisense had a total global workforce of 80,000.

profitability in the world's largest market, reported Bloomberg. Net income at the company, a partner of Volkswagen AG and General Motors Co., fell to RMB 25.6 billion ($3.6 billion) for 2019, it said in a statement Monday. Analysts predicted RMB 27 billion on average. Revenue fell 6.88% year-on-year.

Hisense Group, headquartered in the Shandong province city of Qingdao, sells home appliances like TVs and air conditioners around the world. The company has two listed units, the Shanghai-listed Hisense Visual Technology and Hong Kong-listed Hisense Home Appliances Group.

Trade tensions and slowing economic growth weighed on car demand in China in the past two years, causing a slump that's been since exacerbated by the coronavirus outbreak. Automakers are betting on new models to lure potential shoppers back to showrooms as the government loosens stay-at-home orders aimed at fighting the spread of the virus.Shares of SAIC fell 1.3% on Monday ahead of the earnings announcement, taking this year's slide to 22%.

In 2019, Hisense Group reported revenue of RMB 127 billion ($18 billion), with RMB 46 billion, or nearly 40%, generated overseas. New draft law puts clean power at the forefront of China's energy policy China has released a draft energy law that prioritizes the use of renewable power sources and aims to set future targets for both its production and its share of the country's overall energy mix, reportedCaixin.

China's March pork imports almost triple from last year to fill domestic gap China's pork imports in March almost tripled from last year, customs data showed on Tuesday, as buyers sought to plug a huge supply gap after African swine fever decimated the country's massive pig herd, reported Reuters, reported Reuters.

The draft law, which was three years in the making, aims to bring all of China's disparate energy laws under the same roof, analysts said, as the country now has separate laws governing different kinds of sources, such as renewables and fossil fuels, not mention other aspects of the sector like electricity generation and conservation.

China, the world's biggest consumer, brought in 391,000 tons of pork in March, up from 127,218 tons in March, 2019, according to Reuters calculations based on customs data.

The National Energy Administration (NEA) announced the release of the draft law - called China's Energy Law - on its website Friday. Beefing up renewable energy use dovetails with China's pursuit of cleaner, low-carbon development and energy self-efficiency, said Li Junfeng, an official under the research center of the Ministry of Ecology and Environment, who worked on a previous version of the draft in 2017.

Shipments of the meat in the first quarter came in at 951,000 tons, up almost two times from the same period last year, data from General Administration of Customs showed. China had brought in 560,000 tons of pork in the first two months of 2020, up 158% from a year earlier. The deadly African swine fever disease has reduced at least 40% of China's pig herd and cut its sow inventory by as much as 60% in 2019, slashing pork output and sending prices of the country's favorite meat to record highs.

For your information, please contact: Compiled & Sourced by Mr. Arvind Sinha President 2018-2020 Global Textile Welfare Association

Appliance-maker Hisense to lay off over 10,000 Chinese home appliance-maker Hisense Group is laying off more than 10,000 people, as the global coronavirus pandemic has disrupted production and reduced demand for its products, reportedCaixin. March - April 2020

497

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

ITMF urges governments to support thetextile industry Orders in the global textile value chain cancelled/postponed on average by -31%.ITMF urges governments across the globe to support their respective textile industry.Dialogue and close cooperation between stakeholdersof the textile supply is paramount.

continents, orders droppedon average by dramatic 32%. On average, companies around the world expect their turnover to plunge by -29% compared to 2019. Furthermore, the ITMF Corona-Survey revealed that the companies are struggling with many issues. The two most important and pressing issues are, first, to keep the workforce safe, and second, to have enough liquidity to cover all the running expenses.Both issues are essential for the survival of each company. In the short-term, the safety and health of everyone working in a company is indispensable. In the medium-term, the availability of liquidity is crucial. In such a situation it is important that governments step in, if possible, with the support of international financial institutions like the International Monetary Fund or the World Bank to provide fibre, textile and apparel companies withfinancial assistance. "The ITMF is asking governments to provide banks with additional credit facilities backed by guarantees of states and/or international institutions, to suspend any taxes or any other forms of social levies and contributions, etc. with the objective to provide companies with enough liquidity to overcome this critical period", Mr. Sung noted.

Against the backdrop of the Corona-pandemic, which has spread across the entire globe, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) is urging governments to increase the support their textile and apparel industries to overcome this period ofan unprecedented demand and supply shock.The results of second ITMF Corona Survey which were released yesterday, revealed that on average orders are down by 31% and the turnover for 2020 is expected to drop by -28%. In our lifetimes such a demand shock is unprecedented. "The textile and apparel companies around the world are struggling and with them millions of workers and employees. In such times, both the public and the private sectors must work closely together, to avoid an economic and social meltdown", ITMF President, Mr. Kihak Sung, emphasized today.Some industrialized countries have sophisticated instruments like short-time work. To avoid laying off workers, companies are reducing their working hours and wages, with the government making up some of the employees' lost income. Most governments in developing countries do not have the necessary mechanisms in place and are lacking the resources."Therefore, it is important to find creative solutions between governments, international institutions and the private sector, that can be implemented quickly,Mr. Sung added.

At the same time the ITMF is asking all stakeholder in the supply chain to work closely together. Above all, ITMF is asking retailers and brands to refrain from making use of any 'force majeure clauses' in their contracts with suppliers. These would lead to a cascade of cancellations of orders that are ready for shipment or in the process of completion. Instead, brands and retailers as well as all other stakeholders in the supply chain should have dialogues and look for creative solutions that allow partners to survive this unprecedented period together.

The Corona-pandemic has forced governments around the world to introduce lockdowns and all sorts of exit restrictions, leading to a suddenclosure of all sorts of "offline" business for textiles and apparel. Within a few days, shops and stores of any kind selling "unessential" products had to close, cutting of global demand of textiles and apparel. In the past three weeks, ITMF has conducted two surveys among textile companies around the world. The first ITMF Corona-Survey in the second half of March indicated already the dire consequences of this demand and supply shock: orders were down by an average of around -8% globally and turnover in 2020 is expected to be down on average by -10.5% compared to 2019. The second ITMF CoronaSurvey conducted at the end of March and beginning of April highlighted the devastating impact the Coronapandemic has on the global textile industry. Across all Journal of the TEXTILE Association

While the supply chain is certainly disrupted dramatically, all stakeholders should do their part not to destroy it. If otherwise healthy companies go under because of insufficient numbers of orders and/or a lack of liquidity, the supply chain will not be capable to produce the necessary number of products with the necessary quality and speed once demand is returning. ITMF was founded in 1904 and its members are associations and companies in the fibre, textile, apparel, home textile, textile machinery and textile chemical industry in almost 60 countries around the world, that are employing directly and indirectly millions of people.

498

March - April 2020

NEWS

New Head of Textile Technology at USTER Textileindustry expert Oswald Baldischwielerwill focus on value-added services forcustomers

part of the company philosophy: "The job is not complete just by developing great innovative products. We need to make sure that our customers learn how to use them effectively and efficiently every day," he says.

Uster Technologies is pleased to announce that Oswald Baldischwieler starts his new position as Head of the Textile Technology Department and member of the Executive Committee in April.

Uster Technologies offers a wide range of textile services and support to its customers and partners. These include the USTER®STATISTICS global benchmarks, laboratory testing services, and textile training and consulting programs. A worldwide team of more than 50 textile technologists,together with more than 200 service engineers,is taking care of 4,500 customers in 75 countries - working at customer sites or in USTER laboratories - conducting training, carrying out tests and providing application know-how. "For USTER, it is a great pleasure and a unique opportunity, to work together with someone as experienced as Oswald Baldischwieler as Head of Textile Technology," says Thomas Nasiou, Chief Executive Officer of Uster Technologies. "Our Textile Technology is a core element of USTER - it is where all our textile know-how comes from and where our customers receive the special support they appreciate."

Baldischwieler, Head Textile Technology Department and member of the Executive Committee

Baldischwieler is an experienced textile technologist and manager. His entire career has been dedicated to the development and promotion of the textile industry, in a number of senior roles. After working as Mill Manager for the German textile producer Lauffenmühle and as Technical Director and Chief Operating Officer at spinning mill Hermann Bühler, Baldischwieler joined Uster Technologies in 2017.As Product Manager for In-line Process Control, he has been responsible for a large part of the USTER portfolio. "The past three years have been a great opportunity for me to get to know Uster Technologies as a company, to become familiar with the systems and solutions and to appreciate the immense know-how and service capacities," Baldischwieler says.

For more information, please contact; for journalists Kathrin Niedurny Marketing Content & Communication Manager Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 8610 Uster Switzerland Phone +41 43 366 3889 Mobile +41 79 895 9309 kathrin.niedurny@uster.com For other media-related requests, please contact: publicrelation@uster.com

Customer services and support For USTER, value-added services are a fundamental

Oerlikon offers innovative service portal & modern e-commerce platform Innovative service portal and modern e-commerce platform in one myOerlikon.com offers an intelligent all-round, care-free package March - April 2020

Within the context of a globally-networked textile industry, online services have become essential for considerably more efficient maintenance, modernization and original parts procurement processes for machines and 499

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS systems. Here, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment has this year once again optimized the myOerlikon.com service portal - which was established many years ago - for the products and services of its OerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven brands, making it even more user-friendly. It allows customers to now access tailored services with even greater ease and comfort - and all this in nine different languages and around the clock.

from being merely a shopping platform, customers can not only place orders comfortably here, they can also send online inquiries to Oerlikon, view prices and warehouse stocks and track inquiries, quotations and orders already made or placed, among many other things. As a result of online access to original parts catalogs for the respective customer machines and systems, erroneous orders are a thing of the past.

Just glancing at the new look of the upgraded service portal reveals what users can expect. The platform provides them with comprehensive digital access to all relevant information on their in-stalled machine base by means of PC, tablet or smart device. Each and every machine park usually has numerous associated documents, ranging from manuals, circuit diagrams and 3D drawing-supported original parts catalogs, all the way through to operating instructions and final documents. myOerlikon.com continually bundles and updates this information, while also providing users with additional communications on potential machine modernizations and upgrades and on special offers tailored to the respective production system.

Log-in is secure for users, as are all transactions carried out using the platform. With this, Oerlikon is implementing real security for all virtual purchases. All data exchanged is fundamentally encrypted and hence protected against unauthorized access. "With myOerlikon.com, we are supplying customers with a tool with which they can plan and steer all processes relating to maintenance, operation and spare parts provision for their machine parks - constantly updated, customized and available around the clock," explains Ingo Scholz, Project Manager for myOerlikon& e-commerce at Oerlikon. "Here, users benefit from stable production performance, a high degree of operating reliability and optimized product quality," explains, before adding "because high-quality end products and efficient production are dependent on the optimum condition of the system."

Real security during virtual shopping

For further information, please contact: Ute Watermann Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 1634 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 ute.watermann@l@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Efficient, secure and transparent - myOerlikon.com offers tailored online services

At the same time, users can access the myOerlikon.com e-commerce platform, which operates in parallel. Far

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

500

March - April 2020

NEWS

perPETual and Polygenta manufacture rPET FDY using Oerlikon Barmag's WINGS The Indian yarn manufacturer Polygenta, specialized on the manufacturing of sustainable recycling yarns, recently commenced production of recycled polyester FDY yarns at its facilities in Nashik. The yarn is produced using a combination of perPETual Global Technologies patented chemical recycling technology and OerlikonBarmag's direct spin-ning system equipped with the 32-end WINGS concept.

FDY products currently being developed. The yarn produced caters to the requirements of premium-segment clients demanding high quality, cost effective sustainable solutions. As one of the world's first companies, Polygenta has, since 2014, been producing 100% recycled POY and DTY from post-consumer PET using the patented chemical recycling process developed by per- PETual Global Technologies. perPETual's process reduces CO2 impact by more than 66% compared to virgin PET. The yarn is spun using OerlikonBarmag systems and equipment. As a result, Polygenta is able to produce a wide range of DTY and FDY yarns that comply with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS). For further information, please contact: Susanne Beyer Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 1526 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313

OerlikonBarmag spinning concepts withWINGS FDY

The spinning plant was commissioned by Oerlikon Textile India technologists in close collaboration with the process experts at OerlikonBarmag, with various

POY process now even more energy-efficient Following several years of development with partner Siemens, Oerlikon Barmag kicked off serial production of its new drive unit for POY systems at the beginning of the year. The new component makes stands out above all with regards to energy efficiency.

The requirements-specific design of the compact inverter unit ensures functional optimization of the winder's control functions. And the new component is used in conjunction with a performance-optimized chuck motor. This means that energy savings of up to 3% can be achieved for the take-up. "In the case of a 1,000position system, this represents a saving of around 120,000 euros a year, depending on the relevant local energy costs. The many years of collaborating with our partner Siemens means that we are always stateof-the-art in terms of control technology. With our e-save-certified solutions, we are consistently able to offer our clientĂ¨le sustainable technology for the efficient manufacture of yarns", states Arnulf Sauer, responsible for winder technology at Oerlikon Barmag.

A new driver unit for WINGS POY further reduces the energy consumption in the winder section by 3%. March - April 2020

501

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS Further customer benefits include a significant reduction in cables and cable trays. The reduced number of switching cabinets also saves space. Following intensive field tests at two well-known customers last year, the compact inverter unit was finally released for serial manufacture at the beginning of 2020. There are plans to deliver several thousand positions with the new component this year.

Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 1526 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com André Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

For further information, please contact: Susanne Beyer

Rieter -Consultation Process at the Winterthur Location Completed ◆ ◆ ◆

Discontinuation of assembly at the Winterthur location confirmed Reduction of 87 jobs Comprehensive social plan in place

well as a job center and the avoidance of hardship cases. The company intends to reduce the headcount by means of workforce turnover and early retirement, however some layoffs will be unavoidable.

On January 29, 2020, Rieter announced its intention to discontinue the assembly of machines at the Winterthur location due to structural changes in the market situation. The consultation process with employee representatives was completed today, March 11, 2020. After intensive discussion and detailed examination of the submitted proposals, the discontinuation of assembly and the associated reduction of 87 jobs was confirmed.

For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.com Rieter Management AG Media Relations RelindisWieser Head - Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

The final position was communicated to the employee representatives and the Office for Economy and Labor of the Canton of Zurich. Rieter's employees were informed of the result. The decision will be implemented gradually during 2020. Rieter has a comprehensive social plan. The focus is on the reintegration of affected employees with the support of the Regional Employment Centre (RAV) as

Attention All TAI Members

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIA TION (INDIA) ASSOCIATION Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our mailer data taicnt@gmail.com Journal of the TEXTILE Association

502

March - April 2020

NEWS

SAD DEMISE

Late Shri R. G. Malvankar (01.11.1947 - 26.02.2020)

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has lost its very senior Member and Trustee, Shri R. G. Malvankar who passed away on 26th February 2020. He was one of the key functionaries of this important Organization of Textile Professionals.

his own business venture Syntex Corporation and also formed a new company in 1992 called Nova Transfers Pvt. Ltd. and he was the Director (Marketing & Technical Services). Shri Malvankar was the Managing Committee member of TAI, Mumbai Unit since 2001 to till date. He was the Vice Chairman of the TAI, Mumbai Unit from 2001 to 2015. In 2004, he was awarded Service Memento of The Textile Association (India) for his contribution to the textile industry.

Shri Malvankar was the Alumni of the VJTI and did his M.Tech in 1973. He was very much attached to the various activities of this institute. He was the Faculty Member of VJTI, Textile Department and Vice Chairman of Textile Past Students Association (TPSA). He was also Committee member of Advisory Board, BTRA and Textile Studies in University of Bombay. He was socially involved as a Member of Lions Club of Wellington, Santacruz and Active Member &Sponsorer of Cancer Aid Association.

The Mumbai Unit was very lucky and proud to have a person like Shri Malvankar at the helm of affairs and we all believe that his absence will be very much felt by the Association for many years. It is a great loss to the Association.

Shri Malvankar started his career as a Production Supervisor in Khatau Mills in the year 1970. He also worked in various textile mills like New Oriental Silk Mills, Gold Mohur Mills, Supertex India Corporation. In 1980 he started

March - April 2020

We all pray to the Almighty to bestow Everlasting peace to his departed soul and give enough courage to his family to sustain this irreparable loss.

503

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

SVITT successfully organized TEXCON -2020 Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology of Shri Vaishnav Vidhyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Indore organized two days National Textile Conference "TEXCON2020" on 05th & 06th March, 2020. The theme of conference was "Contemporary Issues in Textile Manufacturing Process from Fiber to Garment". TEXCON2020 was aimed at bringing together the entire extended textile fraternity on one platform for the intellectual interface of varied domains. Each delegate has shared their experiences and discussed the practical challenges and solutions that can be adopted.

Inaugural Session The inaugural ceremony commenced with the lightning of the lamp by a group of dignitaries - Chief Guest, Dr. R. L. Raina, Vice Chancellor of J. K. Lakshmipat University Jaipur, Guest of Honor, Shri Kumar Purushottam (I.A.S.) Executive Director M.P.I.D.C. Indore. Guest of Honor, Shri Nitinji Seth C.O.O. Arvind Ltd. Knits Division, Ahmadabad, Honorable Shri Purushottamdas Pasari, Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Dr. Upinder Dhar Vice Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Dr. R. K. Datta - Director of Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradiya , Honorary Secretary of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Trust.

Day 1: 5th March, 2020

Dr. R. K. Datta briefed about Texcon-2020. Dr. Upinder Dhar formally welcomed all the dignitaries and the participants from the various part of the country. He mentioned that Indian textile industry, currently estimated at around US $150 billion, is expected to reach US $ 300 billion by 2025. It accounts for 13 percent of industrial production and contributes 2.3 percent to the GDP of the country. The textile and apparel industry is the second largest employer in the country providing employment to 45 million people. He highlighted the need and requirement of innovation in the current scenario. Shri Purushottamdasji Pasari congratulated the organizing committee of TEXCON 2020 that has provided a platform to the academia and industry to present their research work and helped everybody to gain the knowledge.

Lighting the lamp in inaugural session

Shri Kumar Purushottam (IAS) emphasized on various government policies and futuristic views for textiles and garment industries. He urges to young textile engineers to improve the productivity of textile. Shri Nitin Seth shared his experience & discussed on cost competiveness of Indian garment in this fast fashion world. Chief Guest, Dr. R. L. Raina also congratulated everybody for organizing TEXCON - 2020 and appreciated the various researched works for the benefit of the society. He emphasized on various projects related to sericulture of silk, handlooms products and also talks about the role of academic institutes and students for the development of overall textile Industry. Finally, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradiya proposed the words of thanks.

Release of Conference Book L to R: Dr. R. K. Datta, Dr. Upinder Dhar, Dr. R. L. Raina, Shri Purushottamdas Pasari, Shri Kumar Purushottam, Shri Nitinji Seth, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradiya

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

504

March - April 2020

NEWS Plenary Session-I Dr. J. Hayavadana, Professor, University College of Technology, Osmania University, Hyderabad, presented a research paper on Challenges for Ikat Dyeing in Nalgonda District of Telangana State. Dr. Ashwini K. Agrawal, Professor and H.O.D., Department of Textile Technology, I.I.T. Delhi, discussed about the development of Nano Engineered Janus structure for highly functional textile material.

stakeholder perception. Dr. R. Ramachandran, Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, presented a paper on 3D printing technology & discussed about the methods of applications of that .The Session Chair was Dr. Shirish Jain, Professor, & Exam Controller, SVVV. Plenary Session - 5 Mr. R. N. Yadav, Principal Consultant, Aaryan Associates, delivered a lecture on the Role of Job Restructuring, Discipline and Productivity for the Indian textile industry. Dr. R. N. Joshi, Associate Professor, SGGSIE & T, Nanded, delivered lecture online through Google Duo. He spoke on a case study to the producers of starting and shutdown of melt spinning line of polyester plant. The Session Chair was Dr. P. A. Khatwani, Professor, Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat. Thereafter two concurrent sessions were conducted, in that 7 technical papers were presented.

Mr. Kunal Toshwani, Executive Manager, Raymond Limited, talked on various issues in the manufacturing of garments looking to the perspective end-uses of the customer. The Session chair was Dr. R. K. Datta, Director, SVITT. Plenary Session-II Dr. Ashok Athayle, Professor, Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Mumbai, presented a paper on Polyester & discussed about the PLA. Dr. Gautam Bose, Ex Principal Scientist of ICAR, Kolkata, described on various natural growing in the vast unexplored of natural fibers in India. Mr. V.K. A.K. Pandey, A.G.M., Voltas Textile Machinery Division, discussed on "Innovation and Value Creation" of textile spinning machines to push the industry 4.0 revolution. The Session chair was Dr. Santosh Dhar, Dean, FDSR, SVVV. Thereafter, two concurrent sessions were conducted, in that 11 technical papers were presented.

Valedictory Ceremony

Day 2: 6th March, 2020 Plenary Session - 3 Dr. P. A. Khatwani, Professor, Sarvajanik College of Engineering& Technology, Surat, presented a paper on Nonwoven Fabrics: Gateway to the Broad Market of Innovations & discussed various issues on nonwoven fabric. Dr. B. Basu, Consultant, Mumbai, presented a paper on crisis in Bhiwandi power loom sector with their problem and much needed solutions. The Session Chair was Dr. U. C. Choubey, Emeritus Professor, SVITS.

Valedictory speech by Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS), Commissioner, Directorate of Handloom & Handicraft and Managing Director, Sant Ravidas Madhya Pradesh Hastashilp evam Hathkargha Vikas Nigam, Bhopal

Plenary Session - 4 Dr. Vinay Kumar Midha, Professor, Department of Textile Technology, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, presented paper on the dynamic of lock stitch sewing process with the effect of tension variation of sewing thread on the properties of garments. Prof. Jomichan Pattathil, Professor, N.I.F.T., Mumbai, discussed about the Adoption of CAD in Indian garment manufacturing sector to assess the March - April 2020

Felicitation of Chief Guest, Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS), at Valedictory Ceremony 505

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS The Chief Guest of the Valedictory Ceremony was Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS), Commissioner, Directorate of Handloom & Handicraft and Managing Director, Sant Ravidas Madhya Pradesh Hastashilp evam Hathkargha Vikas Nigam, Bhopal. In Valedictory ceremony, Dr. R. K. Datta, Chairman, Texcon - 2020 presented conference report. Dr. Upinder Dhar, Vice Chancellor, Shri Vaishnav Vidhyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya said that the textile sector is always consider as an important sector of the society. Now the time for the value addition and needs to upgrade process and technology and innovates some new products. The brochure of TEXCON 2021 was also released. Chief Guest, Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS) said that the Indian fabric is always considering a prime market for the foreign textile business. India covered the 20 percent business in textile in past. This was because of the specialty of the handlooms and handicrafts. Now the time is to restructure of the handloom sector. The Maheshwari Sarees is the important product of the Madhya Pradesh. This was developed by Devi Ahilyabai Holkar. He also encouraged the students to work hard & give new technological ray on the development of Handloom & Handicrafts. He also shared the hope for the recruitment of fresh technocrats in this sector in future. Prof. Ajay Shankar Joshi, Organizing Secretary, 2020 proposed the words of thanks.

Visit at Textile Exhibition

In TEXCON 2020, students from various textile institutes also presented 11 technical posters. A Textile Exhibition was also organized, in that Sundaram Fashion, Mrignayani Emporium Indore and Raymond were participated. The students of B.Sc Fashion Designing, SVVV also exhibited their own designed garments. The Assistant Director & his team from Raja Ramanna Centre for Advanced Technology, Indore also demonstrated the eco friendly dyeing treatment. The Gold Sponsor of TEXCON 2020 was Raymond Limited, Silver Sponsor was Vardhman Textiles Limited and Maral Overseas, Uttar Techno Consultancy, Sundaram Fashion, Nakoda Textiles and FIT IN Men's wear were the sponsors of TEXCON 2020. The Journal of the Textile Association and Textile Value Chain were the media partners. In TEXCON 2020, Faculties & Students were also participated from Parul University, Waghodia; SMRK BK AK Mahila Mahavidyalaya, Nasik; Visva Bharati (A Central University), West Bengal; Uttar Pradesh Textile Technology Institute; Sunrise University, Alwar; MPSTME NMIMS, Shirpur; SAIT, Bengaluru; Nirmala Niketan, Mumbai; VJTI, Mumbai; LDCE, Ahmedabad; M.S. University, Baroda; NIT, Jalandhar and Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth, Indore. The delegates from Industries & The Textile Association (India) were also presented in both days of conference.

View of wonderful gathering

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

506

March - April 2020

NEWS

The Textile Association (India) completes 81 glorious years more industry engagement through JTA. Readers can send us their contributions as expert articles, researches, reports and developments in their work space. This will add to everyone's knowledge," Juneja informs. The Textile Association (India) provides opportunities for professional growth of technologists in the Indian textile industry across all sectors. The association organizes seminars, conferences, workshops, refresher courses and exhibitions of textiles and allied machines for the benefit of members. These activities are held across the country with the help of all 26 federal units, which are autonomous in their activities. TAI's annual conference is a prestigious annual event, being organised for the last 76 years. TAI has organized 75 Annual All India Textile Conferences (AITCs) some at an international level. These conferences have focused on contemporary and innovative topics with high profile speakers. Eminent industrialists, policy makers, reputed professionals and renowned experts from different parts of the world have presented research papers. Most conferences have been inaugurated by eminent and dynamic personalities of India like the President, Prime Minister, cabinet ministers, governors and sate chief ministers, secretary to the Ministry of Textiles, vice chancellors etc. TAI also publishes small tablets and textbooks of practical value for the benefit of practicing professionals and students. It publishes study materials which help members acquire textile qualifications by appearing for standard examinations. It offers added qualification of ATA and GMTA for technicians who can earn and study to acquire a Diploma (ATA) and a degree (GMTA). ATA is recognized as equal to a diploma and GMTA is equivalent to a university degree. TAI members who acquired GMTA have also completed their post graduate and doctorate programs from reputed universities in India. Internationally, TAI is the founder member of the Federation of Asian Professional Textile Associations (FAPTA). TAI's national president is one of the members in International Advisory Committee of FAPTA. The association organized the 1st International Asian Textile Conference (ATC) in 1991 and the 7th International Asian Textile conference (ATC) in 2003 in New Delhi. TAI is also the co-sponsor of India ITME Society and the National President is one of the vice chairmen on their steering committee. TAI also publishes a prestigious bi-monthly peer-reviewed 'Journal of the Textile Association' for the last 81 years. JTA is also available in a digital version online since 2011 on TAI's website www.textileassociationindia.org.

The Textile Association (India) or TAI as it is popularly known, celebrates its 81st 'Incorporation Day' today, April 9, 2020. It was established on April 9, 1939, by ten visionary technocrats, who used to meet casually as a 'Friday Club'. They formalized TAI along with 126 likeminded technocrats and managers. The objective of the association was to facilitate free exchange of information on technical cooperation. The founders' vision was to create a common platform where technocrats and leaders from small and big industries come together to bring laurel to the industry and country at large. TAI today is the leading and one of the largest national bodies, of textile professionals, striving for the growth of India's largest industry. The association has more than 25,000 strong members through its 26 affiliated Units (chapters), spread throughout the length and breadth of the country. "Our heartiest congratulations to the founders, trustees, predecessor presidents, committee members all our esteemed members and sincere thanks for the whole hearted support to the entire textile industry extended over all these years," says Ashok Juneja, National President, TAI. "It is my proud privilege to lead such a prestigious association which has had eminent presidents during its glorious journey from Late Dr. Nazir Ahmed to Late Homi Modi; Late Dr. Vikram Sarabhai; Late N. V. Ullal, Late Maj. R. P. Poddar, Shri J. J. Randheri, Shri M. K. Mehra, Shri R. K. Dalmia, Shri R. C. Kesar, Dr. M. S. Mathivanan, Dr. P. R. Roy and many other eminent personalities." TAI, in all these years has conferred prestigious awards and honorary memberships to highly respected personalities like Shri Nazir Ahmed, Shri Kasturbhai Lalbhai, Shri K.D.M. Thackercy, Shri Gulzarilal Nanda, Shri Homi Modi, Shri G. D. Birla, Shri G. D Ambekar, Dr. Vikram Sarabhai, Shri Arvind N. Mafatlal, Shri Naval H. Tata, Shri Padampat Singhania, Shri Neville Wadia, Hon. Maj. R. P. Poddar, Shri Gaur Hari Singhania, Shri Abhaykumar S. Kasliwal, Shri Dhirubhai H. Ambani, Shri K. K. Birla, Shri Mukesh D. Ambani, and many more distinguished people who have contributed towards the growth of textile industry of India. "With emphasis and commitment to professional ethics and social responsibilities, our renewed vision is to be internationally renowned as a leading association of textile technocrats and professionals promoting scientific and technological knowledge and training with benchmarking performance," Juneja says. "With our new Office Bearers elected for 2020-21, we wish to make TAI more connected with the industry through various ground activities organised by different units across the country. One such initiative started by us is interaction through JTA. We welcome more and March - April 2020

507

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

We need to learn some lessons from this crisis By Ashok Juneja, President, TAI practiced for sometime even after the lockdown ends. This willagain be a challenge in textile and apparelfactories. Apparel industry will be severely hit asall over the world, stores are closed and nosales are happening. Almost all buyers arecancelling orders or postponing orders, toavoid further stockpile, and they may notplace further committed orders in the nextfew months. The virus has severely impacted India'smajor export destinations - US and EU.These regions will witness high levels ofunemployment. It is difficult to say whenthese countries will return to normal life;and when consumers will start spending onapparel again. A recent survey by ITMFpaints a bleak image - orders in the globaltextile value chain could fall by 31% in2020, compared to 2019. And turnover in 02020 could fall by 28%. Machinery manufacturers too, have suspended their operations. Neither are they in a position to pro-duce the machines nor are customers in aposition to accept delivery. Mills may beable to accept deliveries only 3-4 monthsafter start of operations. Right now, challenges in front of theindustry are safety, lack of supply anddemand, in addition to liquidity. Medicaltextiles is certainly an opportunity andsome textile mills are now shifting production to manufacture face masks and otherpersonal protective gear. Indians are a resilient people, who adaptto situations quickly. We also know thattides will turn and take a different path.Most of the world was dependent on China,now that dependency will change, and it willbenefit countries like India. If India succeeds in this lockdown period and fightsback without much loss then it will be backto business soon because ultimately foodand clothing will remain the key purchases. Volumes may go down but orders will notdisappear completely. Once life is back tonormal people will shop, also as months oflockdown and depression will motivatethem to buy something new, look good andfeel good. Many are seeing this as a correction period, but we hope that this correctiondoes not take away livelihoods. In thesetough times, we all are together and keeping you updated about industry and globalscenario is our duty. So, to conclude, as of now, the situationdoes not seem good for any one; it may notbe easy to restart operations, given themany challenges. It's difficult to estimatethe direct losses at present and it's difficultto foresee the issues that may arise afterthe lockdown is lifted. We, however, should start preparing toface the challenges that we can foresee,without much dependence on governmentrelief, which will help us to only someextent. We also need to learn some lessonsfrom this crisis - not depending upon onlyone source of supply, shift towards localiza0tion, move towards variable cost models.And make better strategies for the timesahead.

Novel Coronavirus! It is a war with aninvisible enemy. The virus that started in Wuhan, China has nowimpacted almost all parts of the world & is seen asone of the worst periods in human history.The lockdown of almost all majoreconomies including China, US, Europe andnow India, has not only shaken up humanrace but also the global economy. It isalmost like World War 3 where the fight isnot with any state or country but with aninvisible enemy that can attack anytime,anywhere irrespective of caste, religion orcountry. For the past few weeks, what we as acountry and world have seen is unimaginable. We have been part of many conversations on what happened; how did thisspread; was China at fault; why did thegovernment not take appropriate stepsfrom the beginning; Italy pays big price ofcallous attitude and many more theories.Amidst all this, our concern is about thefuture of the textile industry. The demandfor textile products, as also domestic salesof textiles and apparel have come to agrinding halt, due to the lockdown. As we all know textile industry is a veryunique industry, characterized by varioussegments, having their unique businessinterests, which sometimes clash with eachother. Due to the lockdown, all factories,small and big, in all sectors - spinning,weaving, garmenting and all allied segments, are closed and it cannot be saidclearly when they will be allowed to operateagain. We all witnessed how migrant labourhas been running helter-skelter amidst allthe confusion, in a desperate attempt tosafeguard his family from hunger. We have more than 2000 spinning millspan India. The bigger units which are con-trolled by big corporate houses have theirworkers residing in the allocated residentialunits adjoining the factory premises.Majority of the workers have migrated fromBihar, UP, Orissa, etc. and are being takencare of by employers. It is worth ponderingwhether workers have stayed back of theirown free will, or were forced to stay backonce the lockdown was announced, andthere was no means of transportation to goback to their home town. Further, it is a question mark once thelockdown is lifted whether they will stay towork or rush back to their homeland tocheck on their families. Also, workers whohave already gone back may or may notreturn to work. The daily wage workerforms 80% of the workforce in garment factories. At present, may be only raw materialand electricity expenses are not beingincurred by the mills. But they have to bearall other expenses, which results in directloss to a mill. There are various other issues - whathappens to material in process, it may haveto go as second quality. All shipments areheld up, LCs will expire, there may be renegotiation of prices, etc. Clearly, restartingfactories will not be an easy task. Social distancing will have to be Journal of the TEXTILE Association

508

March - April 2020

NEWS

A.T.E. ties up with Sellers Textile Engineers Limited A.T.E. ties up with Sellers Textile Engineers Limited to bring innovative carpet finishing technology to India Expanding its portfolio of carpet machinery, A.T.E. has now partnered with Sellers Textile Engineers, England, for the marketing and sales of carpet back coating and shearing machines in India.

Shearing

their reputation for manufacturing excellence in the carpet finishing marketutilisingtheir core skillsandtheir unique design and manufacturing prowess. A.T.E. is a leader in textile engineering with over 80 years of experience in providing end-to-end solutions. A.T.E. is uniquely positioned to support and supply all the equipment needed for carpet manufacturing right from BCF yarn production lines from Truetzschler, carpet yarn heat setting lines from Power Heat Set, digital printing from Zimmer, carpet confection lines from Matthys Group, and robotic tufting from EFAB. With this partnership, A.T.E. brings yet another innovative technology to the Indian carpet manufacturing industry, which will helpcarpet manufacturer's gain a competitive edge.

Carpet Tile Coating Line

With more than 100 years of experience, Sellers Textiles Engineers isa world leader in the design and manufacture of finishing machinery for the carpet industry. Sellersexpertise includes lines for tufted and woven carpets, carpet tile and artificial grass. Virtually every major carpet manufacturer throughout the globe utilises Seller's machines in one form or another - so Sellers have hundreds of leading references around the world. Sellersis committed to maintain and strengthen

COVID 19 - Disguise turns into blessing By Arun Mishra, Founder & director at Adept Global Solutions, Ex General Manager, Saurer Textile Solutions & Rieter India Remember Newton's third law 'For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction'. Similarly, in human life to every negative event, there's always an opposite positive reaction that brings long-lasting changes. For example, not too far ago in 1991, India had an acute balance of payment and was on the verge of bankruptcy. In the opposite & positive reaction to that India liberalized its Economy and thanks to that today we are called Resurgent India with foreign reserves of USD 470Bn. COVID - 19 is also presMr. Arun Mishra March - April 2020

509

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS strong and can deliver. All those who used to doubt its capability can rest their apprehensions to peace. Now there is a need to accelerate digitization along with some innovative ways to promote it in each and every part of life. Corona has tested our systems and now the Government must have understood its constraints, limitations, and faults. Corona demonstrated gaps & Kick started the improvements.

ently a mammoth negative event for India & Indian Economy and it will definitely generate equally strong opposite positive reactions that would bring long lasting changes never imagined hitherto. In this context, I am attempting to list a few tangibles & intangibles that had already happened in response to COVID 19 along with the way we should react positively to build on. You will find that COVID -19 is actually a Change Accelerator. In that sense, Corona has already achieved in the last few days what the Government could not do in many years. I am of the opinion that Corona is going to be truly a Blessing in Disguise for India. It is like 'A Future that Has Already Happened.'

4. Healthy India - a Health Capital for the World For over a month virtually the entire population remained inside that resulted in reduced pollution in the environment. Clubbed with its Social distance, frequent hand washing & disinfestation of the entire country that is going to stay for a long period. This would change the hygiene habits of Indians. Corona is paving a way towards a Healthy, Hygienic and Cleaner India provided both citizen and Government build on it. To build a healthy India advantage, we will need to strengthen our cleaning system and Health infrastructures. For Health infrastructure, India can set up worldclass medical and geriatric facilities in every part of India with public Private participation that could transform India from a preferred medical tourism destination into the Health Capital of the world,

COVID - 19 An Overnight Paradigm shift 1. Digital Economy - Corona lockdowns imposed digital payment/ transactions on everyone. Those who did not have online arrangements to pay suffered and realized its importance. Corona created a natural hatred towards touching currency notes. In my view, the government should now proactively propagate to shun paper currency and shift to digital payment as a safety tool against corona. This will not only reduce incidences of corona infection but also help to accelerate the transformation into the digital economy. This has the potential to migrate a couple of percentage points from India's 84% cash economy to the digital economy thus resulting in higher revenue recognition & higher tax collections. This can become Corona's best gift to India.

5. Hospitality & Tourist Destination : Most of the popular tourist locations in the world are severely COVID impacted. There's a natural hesitation to visit those countries. Fortunately, India remained relatively COVID safe and recovering faster and also has many tourist destinations. Other countries' loss can be India's gain. In that sense, there cannot be a better opportune time to promote Indian tourism. Tourism is the largest employer in the world and Indian youth needs it more than anyone else. To boost the Tourism, Government should subsidize heavily inward air tickets to India and hotel room & dining rates in India to attract foreign tourists. Special discounts by Taxi and shopkeepers need to be provided for all foreign tourists.

2. Work From Home (WFH) - WFH can be a second corona gift to India's prosperity. So far WFH was sparingly used as a retention/luring perk by few select large corporations but Corona in an overnight made "Work from Home" a new Normal. Now formal jobs are also shifted to work from home. If we could standardize, regulate and accelerate WFH, it itself has the potential to catapult India to a different growth orbit of prosperity. Aggressive WFH can result in higher savings for individual & corporate, higher productivity, lower commuting hassles, and lower air pollution. WFH can also be instrumental in higher & easier availability of jobs with the least migration within India.

Special Desk should be set up with Police for the safety of Tourists in India. The government should set aside funds for aggressive marketing along with. India can also install Retina /biometric scanners at most public places to detect Corona positive patient, apart from the Arogya app already in use. Luckily India has Biomet-

3. DIGITALLY STRONG INDIA - Even in an extensive and long lockdown, this country is smoothly functioning despite the complete restriction on movement. It has proved that India's digital infrastructure is Journal of the TEXTILE Association

510

March - April 2020

NEWS farmer's hands helping the revival of rural demand and economy. The good news is that Monsoon Forecast for the next crops is normal. So food inflation is easily controllable which a great consolation is. 2. Telecom : Thanks to Corona Telecom & internet companies are having a hay day. Work from home becoming the norm, it has changed the fortune of this industry. Corona is a savior for them. Impact on Employment / Hiring /Recruitment It hardly needs intelligence to say that the worst impact of #CORONA would be on #employment hence #recruitment industry would definitely suffer. This is a half-correct view. In the immediate commotion, when nobody knows what to expect, there's obviously going to be a standstill and retrenchment is definitely not ruled out. However, when businesses start acting, there's going to a dichotomy around the world in all commercial & economic activities including Recruitment / Hiring. The need for full-time Talent would be initially small and critical and on IMPORTANT & URGENT basis. Recovery is likely to be in the order of Top, senior & Mid-level hiring followed by bulkhiring. Initially, Staffing companies would be better off because they are part of the DE risked model. Work From Home (WFH) would be on an immediate basis at all levels both in replacement and new hire basis. It is 9 to 12 months from lockdown opening when the hiring for growth would happen and attrition would reach its new normal peak Most of the governments across the globe would be announcing mega packages to strengthen confidence to induce fast recovery and to tame the unemployment.

ric records of all citizens. This will give further confidence to tourists that India is really Corona safe to travel. 6. Indian Manufacturing Revolution on Anvil I came across this information that many companies are planning to shift part of their manufacturing base to India Now Corona has fueled the hate for China. It would hasten the shift. The world is keenly looking to come to India but we must add sweetener. The Government needs to make requisite structural changes and improve the ease of doing the business in India markedly. Even Invite Chinese companies to invest in India if they can bring manufacturing excellence along with it. If there's any time for any manufacturing revolution, it is now or never. Corona may prove to be the inflection point for the Manufacturing Revolution in India. 7. Indian Goodwill uplift : India's goodwill and humane face got another uplift. A country where citizens are law-abiding and peaceful. Indian innovation be it HCQ, Ventilators Testing kits or even vaccines for Corona, India is not behind but in some cases rather leading from the front. 8. Sharper Recovery - World was already heading slowly towards recession before Corona hit it. COVID 19 Lockdowns suddenly brought the World economy to a virtual grinding halt. It's akin to hitting the bottom during the lockdowns. So It is but natural for every country to positively react to redraw its strategy for Sharper & quicker recovery. Only time will tell which country succeeds the best. We can only hope India be that one and it looks like India can.

The country needs a long term strategic structural solution and not just a stimulus package. Higher deficits and harder decisions, if taken for India's growth and if not wasted largesse, are not going to be questioned now.

Few Consolations - All is not lost Oil - Oil prices dropped to USD 25 form USD 70 per barrel but the government intelligently did not pass the benefits to the consumer. Clubbed with very low consumption, a rough estimate of saving is expected to be around INR 3 lac Crore (USD 42bn or approx. 1.5% of GDP). A consolation for the lower deficit.

I hope someone in the Government is sitting on a drawing board to have new look with a mindset "It is now or never". It is the time when one can put India on the path of Return to be Golden Sparrow again or take to the Path of No Return. Luckily, the current Government is with the decisive majority government and with a decisive mindset. Abolishing 370 is one proof of it. Hence I am confident that Paranoid India will not only survive but will flourish too.

1. Agriculture - 70% of India's population depends upon Agricultural and fortunately it is not impacted. The government is emptying half of its grain stock for its aggressive public distribution of grains during COVID-19 lockdown, Now Government can procure more and can perhaps pay more to put more money in March - April 2020

511

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

Earth Day Special - How the fashion industry is inching towardssustainability and steps consumers can take The fashionable dress that you pick from a store or online travels a long journey that leaves a lot of environmental footprint. The garment is made from the fabric; fabric that is made from a yarn/thread and the thread that is made from fibre. Unfortunately, the entire fashion & textile value chain which is engaged in the making of the clothes today is the second largest contributor to the pollution.

(NGO's) like Canopy, FSC, SAC and Changing markets foundation to name a few. All these NGOs are like a gold hallmark. They have certain strict norms laid down and they visit brands and factories to ensure compliance on some pre-defined land, water and air pollution parameters. Recently, the Aditya Birla Group launched a fabric called Livaeco that has a Tracer in it. Livaeco fabric can be identified by a tag displayed on the garment. These garments available at leadingbrands, have full value-chain transparency. Many designers like Gabriella Demetraides, Gavin Miguel, have collaborated and used this fabric in their collections.While there is a long way to go as far as sustainability in textile is concerned, especially in the current context rife with fast-fashion and hedonistic consumption, but as they say every little step counts. Leading brands and companies have already started making changes. Consumer awareness and demand for more transparency and information on the clothes they wear can further accelerate the process.

This awareness has led to contentious consumers, large retail brands NGOs, leading designers all coming together towards reducing carbon footprints through sustainable initiatives. Sustainability or sustainable initiatives refers to taking steps to avoid depletion of natural resources like land , water, air in order to maintain ecological balance. This World Earth Day, let us understand what we as consumers can do to ensure that our fashion choices do not harm the Mother Nature.How can a consumer know who is making his fabric/fibre and is he following right steps to ensure least environmental impact? Can this knowledge help him protecting the environment? Do consumers like us have the right to demand who made my clothes, where are they coming from and how much impact they are making on the environment? Because if consumers demand this, more and more brands and manufacturers would be forced to follow processes which would then lead to least environmental footprint.

Water pollution is also one of the side effects of the fashion industry. It's important to treat the water off the chemicals and dyes before releasing it in the environment. Also, with technological changes and modifications in the processes, brands can reduce their water consumption as well. Denim is one of the most water intensive industries, however, homegrown brands like Spykar Lifestyles are taking initiatives to make the supply chain and production processes more sustainable. The brand also strives to lower the consumption of natural resources like fuel for energy and water. The chemicals used are bio-degradable and non-hazardous.

While all of the abovementioned is yet to be achieved, some technological innovations are enabling this transparency. In this day and age we have the technology in place to track the full journey of the garment that you are wearing! This 'journey tracing' is enabled by a technology called 'Tracer'. A tracer is nothing but a pigment injected at the orgin of the fibre that tracks the full value chain. Leading garment brands display a QR code on their apparel which when scanned tells you the fields and factories that the fibre/fabric originated and travelled. Today, as a consumer, you can demand this transparency and force the brands and manufacturers to source and follow -friendly measures.

Spykar's denims are produced in a government approved facility. All denims that Spykar rolls out are made using environmentally responsible processes right from recycled cotton, washes that require less water to technologically advance dry processes such as laser techniques. The brand uses solar power and relies heavily on latest technology like laser machines, ozone wash technology and cloud wash that has aided the brand to lower the material to liquid ratio considerably. Additionally, Spykar is among the few brands that re-

Armed with this information on brands and manufacturers, the customer can then visit the websites of these manufacturers and brands and check if they have endorsements from non-governmental organisations Journal of the TEXTILE Association

512

March - April 2020

NEWS frains from using pumice stone while washing, to not disturb the depleting pumice belt. The brand also has a fully functional water treatment plant which ensures no polluted water is released into any natural water source. The water is re-treated/purified and re-used for washing.

For more information, please contact: Karishma Punjabi White Marque Solutions 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West), Mumbai-400053 Tel.: 022-26335094-98 M.: +91 9833202231 E-mail: karishma@whitemarquesolutions.com

This World Earth Day, let us pledge to do our bit towards the environment!

HUNTSMAN Textile effects and PPJ partner to tap growth potential in Vietnam Huntsman Textile Effects and PhongPhu International (PPJ) today announced a strategic partnership agreement that aims to promote PPJ's growth in Vietnam as a leading manufacturer of sustainable, high-performance textiles and garments for many of the world's leading brands and retailers.

capabilities as the preferred supplier to global brands that believe in quality and sustainability." The new agreement strengthens a longstanding relationship that has already seen PPJ develop innovative denim, knitwear and woven fabrics and garments using Huntsman Textile Effects technologies including AVITERA® SE dyes, NOVACRON® Atlantic dyes and High IQ® intelligent effects.

Vietnam-based PPJ will leverage best-in-class technical support from Huntsman Textile Effects to enhance its manufacturing processes across its denim/twill and knit mills, and develop new products that deliver optimal sustainability along with advanced performance, protection and comfort.

"The textile sector is Vietnam's largest export earner, and PPJ is one of its most impressive success stories," said Chuck Hirsch, VP of Commercial, Huntsman Textile Effects. "By focusing on innovation and being open to new technology and ideas, PPJ has moved up the value chain and showed others how to succeed on the global stage. We are pleased to continue to support PPJ and help strengthen Vietnam's reputation for highquality textile production."

The development of workwear and value-added textile for the American, European and Japan markets, such as innovative textiles with functional finishes will be a key project for the two partners. They will use advanced Huntsman Textile Effects barrier solutions such as PHOBOL®, PHOBOTEX® and ZELAN™, along with other finishing effects.

Huntsman Textile Effects has long been an active supporter of Vietnam's textile sector. It holds regular seminars and workshops in Vietnam and collaborates with textile mills and apparel manufacturers to help them adopt new technologies and processes that conserve resources, reduce waste and improve productivity.

Huntsman Textile Effects will additionally support PPJ to promote its Sinnika Fabric collection, leveraging Huntsman's advanced dyeing technology and finishing effects to deliver high-value market-focused solutions to brands and retailers.

For more information, please contact: Huntsman Textile Effects: Marilyn Chua: +65 9119 8354, Marilyn_chua@huntsman.com, Elin Lim: +65 9030 3765,elin_lim@huntsman.com,

Dr. Dang Vu Hung, Chairman and CEO of PPJ, said, "PPJ was among the first in Vietnam to move away from traditional contract manufacturing and offer innovative designs, green solutions and a vertically integrated supply chain as a one-stop solutions provider. With Huntsman Textile Effects as our technology partner, we look forward to continuing to enhance our March - April 2020

513

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

India ITME 2020 postponed to December, 2021 'Covid 19' has brought disruption and distress for the general life, industry and economy, especially for the textile and textile engineering industry all over the world. Hope yourself and family along with full team of your organization are safe and holding up good in this trying situation. Stay safe. Stay well.

ted by municipal authorities and Traffic police department until its completion. As such, all major events are shifted to other venues such as IEML, Gr.Noida. As organizers ITME Society shall be making special arrangements for shuttle buses from Delhi Airport, Railway station and Metro station to venue. All details shall be available nearer to event on the website. Society also recommend participants to directly book hotels and accommodation through ITME website to avail reasonable rates and special offers negotiated for India ITME 2021.

Under the circumstances, India ITME Society proposes to postpone India ITME 2020 by one year to December 2021. The new dates for the event will be 8th to 13th December, 2021. The revised exhibitor manual and schedules shall be available at our website(https://itme2021.india-itme.com) shortly. All participation guidelines remain same and the payments shall be adjusted against revised exhibition dates. ◆ Pre- event dates- 3rd to 7th Dec 2021. ◆ Event dates- 8th to 13th Dec 2021. ◆ Dismantling dates- 14th-15th Dec 2021. ◆ Venue: IEML, Greater Noida.

India ITME Society assures that they shall stand by the industry in all possible ways to see through these difficult times and shall double the efforts to ensure customer reach for exhibitors and shall continue to keep in communication. India ITME team wishes you a safe stay and good health. Assuring you best of services and support. For more details, please contact on itme@india-itme.com for any assistance in this regard. Website: https://www.india-itme.com/

Due to massive metro construction work in Mumbai, no large events and container movements are permit-

Innovation in Warp knitted power jersey for innerwear Traditional fabric, new production - JERSEY EVOLUTION

Typical products from other textile manufacturing technologies can be used and combined with the technological advantages of warp knitted textiles - as demonstrated by the outcome of KARL MAYER's latest textile product development. Perfectly timed for Interfiliére in January 2020, the innovation department has developed a collection of warp knitted jersey fabrics titled JERSEY EVOLUTION. The production equipment used is the high-performance warp knitting machine HKS 2-S. "With these innovative jersey warp knitted fabrics, we want to open new doors in the world of innerwear, or fabric worn close to the skin," said Textile Technician Melanie Bergmann.

Warp Knitting technology is one of the most versatile technologies in textile production. A wide range of machine gauges, yarns, and possible patterns facilitates the production of countless different textiles with special properties.

The particular benefits of these new fabrics include a soft, sleek feel that's fine and smooth to touch, with high elasticity but resistance to permanent loss of shape, as well as smooth, free-cut edges. These characteristics are backed by specially chosen machine configu-

JERSEY EVOLUTION Journal of the TEXTILE Association

514

March - April 2020

NEWS and geogrids, as well as carriers for grinding discs and are produced extremely efficiently on the WEFTTRONIC® II G.

rations and lapping technology: the very good recovery capacity of the bi-elastic fabric is created by implementing a two-needleoverlap. Thanks to a special meshing of the elastane threads, firm and straight edges are created which have a very low or zero tendency to curl.

Geogrid fabrication is now 60 % more productive compared to the previous version. In addition, less expensive yarns can be processed into high-quality textiles: the textile glass fibre material can cost up to 30 % less than leno fabric production. The machine handles technical yarns extremely gently. Its performance is also impressive. The first WEFTTRONIC® II G was ordered by the Polish manufacturer HALICO in early 2019, followed by orders from China in December. "During our most recent trip to China just before Christmas, we were able to win over two new customers for our company," said Jan Stahr, Sales Manager of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. Both companies, Shandong Qiyad and Zibo Glasstex (Shandong Fiberglass), are major players in the industry. After purchasing one machine each, they hinted that they may invest in further WEFTTRONIC® II G models.

The chosen lapping, together with a high machine gauge, ensure a smooth, fine surface and a flowing fall - or a look and feel customary to circular knit fabrics. But in comparison to circular knit, the manufacturing process of the highly elastic, warp knitted power jersey is substantially more productive. A HKS 2-S boasts the same output as around 2.5 circular knitting machines. This high-performance warp knitting machine also offers advantages with regards to spare parts. The needle leads in warp knitting machines can last up to six times longer than those in circular knitting machines. Thanks to this long usage cycle, costs for a set are halved, which results in running costs being lowered considerably. JERSEY EVOLUTION garnered a lot of attention at Interfiliére with its impressive performance. "We had many conversations with representatives from international lingerie labels. There were also some knitwear manufacturers among them, who wanted to learn more about the technology and its possibilities," explained Gabriela Schellner, Senior Manager of Textile Technology at KARL MAYER.

An influential family company Shandong Qiyad is a company privately owned by the Ma family. Mr Ma Xingwang Senior holds shares in two other companies, led by his son and nephew respectively. The companies use around 750 rapier looms in total for their production and thus offer efficiency potential: Depending on product quality, between 13 and 22 rapier looms can be replaced by just one WEFTTRONIC® II G. KARL MAYER Technische Textilien offers intensive service support to ensure a seamless changeover to new technology and to a state of- the-art machine.

Plaster grid warp knitted fabric for the billionEuro market in China The WEFTTRONIC® II G for glass processing is now taking off in China, too

WFTTRONIC II G

The strong partnership led to further recommendations. "During our meetings, the Ma family also introduced us to other potential customers," says Jan Stahr. The native region of Shandong Qiyad, Shanxian (Shandong Province), is well known for its plaster grid production. Around 5000 rapier looms are in operation here. The companies are all part of an association. Jan Stahr is already in the process of scheduling a pilot system with some of these companies.

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien has developed a new warp knitting machine with weft-insertion and thus further differentiated its range offer in this field. The new model, the WEFTTRONIC® II G, is specifically designed to produce light to medium-heavy grid structures. The stable grid textiles are used as plaster grids

A state-owned company with vertically integrated production The state-run Zibo Glasstex is better known as Shandong Fiberglass. The company has made a name for itself internationally as a manufacturer of glass fibres, rovings and textiles. It is among the top 5 manu-

March - April 2020

515

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS structure. The fabric is relatively unstable, but is manufactured with a high output. Glass grid manufacturers looking for greater efficiency can use the WEFTTRONIC® II G at KARL MAYER (CHINA) to produce warp knitted fabrics with the same properties as their existing products and thus investigate whether there are any advantages. The performance profiles of the textile products are verified by corresponding laboratory values. Companies with vertically integrated production particularly welcome the opportunity to test the machine out. In addition to textiles, they also produce textile glass fibre materials and can therefore test how their own yarns are processed. The trials are competently supervised by KARL MAYER's trained technical staff. The WEFTTRONIC® II G is based on a technology unfamiliar to many glass grid manufacturers. During these trials, they can also discover how user-friendly the new machine is.

facturers of glass fibres in China. The company's customers in this sector include manufacturers in Eastern Europe who are already operating machines by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. Following the successful introduction of the technology with the first WEFTTRONIC® II G, Zibo Glasstex plans to invest in further machines. According to the company's own information, it intends to work a market with an annual volume of 2 billion m² of textile glass fibre material and to achieve a significant market share. Zibo Glasstex therefore intends to invest in further machines in the mid-term. Flexibility put to the test In order to gain a better understanding of the possibilities relating to glass grid structure production, the new WEFTTRONIC® II G machine will be available for customer trials at KARL MAYER (CHINA) in Changzhou from June 2020. A wide range of equipment options and patterning possibilities will be available to suit a diverse manufacturing process. The different offers can be tested as part of these processing trials. While working on the machine, customers can get a feel for how the design of the fabric influences its properties and product output, and how this correlation can be used to achieve greater efficiency. If, for example, the square cells of a textile grid are formed with a low warpthread stitch density, the weft threads have a significant freedom of movement within the

For more information, please contact: Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

ITMA ASIA + CITME rescheduled to June 2021 In light of the current coronavirus (Covid-19) pandemic, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 has been rescheduled, despite receiving strong response from exhibitors. Originally slated to be held in October, the combined show will now take place from 12 to 16 June 2021 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC), Shanghai.

and partners in mind. The global economy has been severely affected by the pandemic. On a positive note, the International Monetary Fund has predicted that there would be global economic growth at 5.8 per cent next year. Hence, it is more prudent to look at a date around mid of next year." Added Mr Wang Shutian, Honorary President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), "The outbreak of the coronavirus has caused a severe impact on global economy, and also affected the manufacturing sector. Our exhibitors, especially those from other parts of the world, are deeply affected by the lockdowns. Therefore, we believe that the combined show with the new exhibition dates would be timely when the global economy is predicted to improve. We would like to thank the exhibitors who have applied for space for their strong vote of confidence in the combined show."

According to show owners CEMATEX and Chinese partners, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC), the postponement is necessary due to the coronavirus pandemic. Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, said: "We seek your understanding as this decision has been made with the safety and health concerns of our participants Journal of the TEXTILE Association

516

March - April 2020

NEWS Keen interest at close of application period In spite of the pandemic, at the close of space application, almost all the space reserved at NECC has been filled. The show owners will create a wait list for the late applicants and if necessary, to secure additional exhibition space from the venue to accommodate more exhibitors.

2018 welcomed the participation of 1,733 exhibitors from 28 countries and economies and registered visitorship of over 100,000 from 116 countries and regions.

Buyers to ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 can expect to meet industry leaders who will showcase a wide array of latest technology solutions that will help textile makers to become more competitive.

For more information on ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020, please contact: Ms Pearly Ang ITMA Services Tel: +65 6849 9367 Email: pearlyang@itma.com Ms Christine Tang Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Company Tel: + 86 10 85229646 Email: tangrong@ccpittex.com

For more updates, please visit www.itmaasia.com or www.citme.com.cn.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 is organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the show. The last ITMA ASIA + CITME combined show in

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org Follow us on

March - April 2020

517

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

Oerlikon expresses a very big thanks to their customers & employees Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment looking positively towards the future even during the coronavirus pandemic. "A very big thank you to all our customers and employees for their trust"

the rest of the textile machine industry? The reason is very simple: "Long before the coronavirus situation developed, the major manmade fiber manufacturers in China had decided to reverse-integrate their production chains to include petrochemicals in order to expand their portfolios with targeted investments, to reduce their dependence on asingle product', to optimize their costs and ultimately to acquire greater control over margins in a global volume business", explains Segment-CEO Georg Stausberg. Similar processes and decisions - albeit not on the same scale as in China have also been detected at the large manmade fiber manufacturers in India and Turkey.

Staggered in terms of timing and with varying magnitude, the global spread of coronavirus is impacting the development of the regional economies in the core markets of the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group. In the current times, the world market leader for manmade fiber systems for manufacturing polyester, polypropylene and nylon however believes itself to still be well positioned thanks to longterm strategic customer investments, simultaneously also exploiting numerous opportunities for change arising from the coronavirus pandemic.

While China is already pursuing and implementing its 'From Oil to Yarn' business model, the other market players are currently still focusing on the 'From Melt to Yarn' concept.

The sales markets for manmade fiber systems and equipment have been primarily located in China, India and Turkey for many years now. Together, these markets - above all China - make up the lion's share of the project landscape at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. And this is paying positive dividends at the moment. Because the production facilities of the major manmade fiber manufacturers in China have been systematically fired up again over the past few weeks, with capacity utilization in-creasing consistently. New projects are being discussed.

Even though businesses in India and Turkey are presently still temporarily severely impacted by the coronavirus situation, their long-term commitment cannot however be questioned, as the company-internallyagreed master plans will be systematically implemented moving forward. Long-term investments of global market players All this has recently resulted in increased demand for spinning and texturing systems - just like those supplied by total solutions provider and world market leader Oerlikon Manmade Fibers with its OerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven product brands. "The investments in petrochemical systems are based on long-term strategic considerations and are resulting - even during the coronavirus pandemic neither in short- and medium-term economic dips, nor in changed customer behavior. For these reasons, we are currently continuing to look positively towards the future at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. With orders on our books until 2023, we have created a very good cushion for ourselves. We have to thank all our customers, who have consistently placed their trust in us despite the challenging times we are currently in. We would also like to thank all our employees who remain highly-committed at their mobile workstations at home, servicing the markets throughout the world, providing customers with intensive online consultation on technology questions by means of video conference, con-

Going against the flow

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment

But why is it so? And why is the manmade fiber industry currently practically going against the flow of Journal of the TEXTILE Association

518

March - April 2020

NEWS tinuing to manufacture our high-end technological products in superlative quality under the given coronavirus protection measures at our assembly and production sites worldwide and successfully assembling and commissioning the systems on-site, in part also remotely in collaboration with our clients' staff", states SegmentCEO Georg Stausberg with pride.

this digital transformation to an extreme extent. But it is working and the coronavirus crisis will also allow us to take many positive experiences we have made in our digitally-networked world with us moving forward", concludes Stausberg. For further information: André Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

As a result of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers delving into the digital age years ago, the segment has experienced the intensive and short-term benefit from all the measures, in part also in its processing of customer projects. "Admittedly, the coronavirus situation has accelerated

Rieter Annual General Meeting 2020 ◆ All motions approved ◆ Dividend of CHF 4.50 agreed ◆ COVID-19

also each re-elected for a one-year term of office. Shareholders also adopted all other motions proposed by the Board of Directors, namely approval of the annual report, the financial statements and the consolidated financial statements for 2019, and formal approval of the actions of the members of the Board of Directors and those of the Group Executive Committee in the year under review. In addition, the authorized capital was extended for a further two years.

In relation to participation in the Annual General Meeting on April 16, 2020, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. arranged exclusively written or electronic voting and the granting of power of attorney to the independent proxy. In taking this approach, the Board of Directors relied on Article 6a, lit. b of Ordinance 2 of the Swiss Federal Council (Measures to Combat the Coronavirus of March 16, 2020). Physical participation by the shareholders was therefore not possible. The Annual General Meeting was held on the premises of Rieter Holding Ltd. at the company's headquarters in Winterthur.

COVID-19 At present, it is not possible to predict how the global COVID-19 pandemic will affect Rieter's sales and earnings in the first and second half of 2020, and thus also for 2020 as a whole. Rieter therefore refrains from providing an outlook for financial year 2020 and will issue the relevant information as part of the semi-annual report on July 16, 2020.

At the Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. on April 16, 2020, the independent proxy represented a total of 2 025 shareholders who hold 64.3% of the share capital.

The company has taken the necessary measures to protect employees and to meet commitments to customers as far as possible.

A dividend of CHF 4.50 per share was agreed. The shareholders approved the proposed maximum total amounts of the remuneration of the members of the Board of Directors and of the Group Executive Committee for fiscal year 2021.

Thanks to long-standing customer relationships, a focus on innovation, global positioning and the company's financial stability, Rieter will successfully overcome the challenges.

The Chairman of the Board, Bernhard Jucker, and the members of the Board of Directors This E. Schneider, Michael Pieper, Hans-Peter Schwald, Peter Spuhler, Roger Baillod, Carl Illi and Luc Tack were confirmed for an additional one-year term of office.

Forthcoming Dates Semi-Annual Report 2020: July 16, 2020 Results press conference 2021: March 9, 2021 Annual General Meeting 2021: April 15, 2021

Furthermore, This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Bernhard Jucker, the members of the Remuneration Committee who were standing for election, were March - April 2020

For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. 519

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comRieter Management AG

Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

Stop biopolishing and start singeing 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

To address these pain areas, Osthoff Senge - a leading German textile machine manufacturer - has introduced a singeing machine that can singe open width knit fabric. Through innovative German technology, Osthoff's open width knit singeing machine solves a number of problems faced in tubular singeing machines. Open width singeing not only provides excellent value addition to the finished fabric, but it is also eco-friendly.Osthoff's open width knit singeing machine is a proven product. More than 70 open width knit singeing machines are in operation around the world, with more than 40 machines in Turkey, and two machines in operation in India.

Osthoff Machine

Singeing is the process of removal of protruding fibres from the surface of fabric through the application of open flames while the fabric is in motion. The fuel typically used is LPG, with a defined ratio of gas to air. Singeing helps improve the fabric's appearance and reduces its tendency to form pills; this also helps prevent the surface of the fabric from picking up dirt. The singeing process is performed in the grey stage itself, in order to take advantage of the dry state of the fabric. Also, singed fabric also can be dyed and processed better.

While a few open width process houses have been established in India, the industry overall is yet to adopt at scale some of the established practises that are used in knit processing industries around the world. With the pronounced advantages of open width singeing over biopolishing, it is hoped that the industry would switch over to this best practice sooner rather than later.

Singeing is a widely accepted process in the woven processing industry. However, in the knit processing industry, singeing is much less common as textile manufacturers have historically worked with tubular knits. Singeing is difficult to perform on fabrics in tubular form as the flame to fabric distance is hard to control accurately, which results in uneven singeing.In order to impart to tubular knit fabrics the same kind of finish achieved through singeing in woven fabrics, the surface of the knitted fabric is cleaned in a soft flow dyeing machine through biopolishing. In this method, the fabric is treated with aggressive textile auxiliaries. However, biopolishing has several disadvantages: 1.

For more information, please contact: Jasbinder Kaur Panchi Executive Assistant to Director Textile Engineering Group A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited Bhagwati House, A-19, CTS No. 689 Veera Desai Road, Andheri (West), Mumbai - 400 053 Tel.: +91-22-6676 6100, +91-22-6676 6239 M.: +91-9869288040 E-mail: j_k_panchi@ateindia.com

Reduced fabric tensile strength

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Considerable reduction in depth of the shade after biopolishing Increased fluff generation Significant reduction in fabric weight Auxiliaries used for biopolishing increase the COD of the effluent tremendously Reduced productivity of soft flow dyeing machine Cost of biopolishing is at least twice that of singeing

520

March - April 2020

NEWS

Colorjet Group launched Oxyventface filter brand Colorjet earmarks 25 Million on technology for Oxyvent Face Filters launch amid pandemic crisis

using our own renowned International Digital Textile Print technology." Colorjet has earmarked an initial investment of 25 million INR for the venture and is aiming at Printing 100,000 filters a day. The company has installed Direct to Fabric, Dye Sublimation, Direct to Garment and Laser Cutting & Finishing machines native to the group and in partnership with Japanese Technology for the project.

Responding to the need in the market and to appease more people into wearing the face gear by making them more inclusive to everyday life, Colorjet Group has launched Oxyvent, a designer face filter brand in the market that comes with creative prints on it to amplify the aesthetics. As the masks become a necessity, the need to give the industry a new shape by making it fashionable and appealing to the masses forms the core of this new venture.

To bring in international designs and styles to life, Oxyvent has collaborated with renowned Web-2-Print workflow solution provided by Early Vision from Israel. "For mass customization of our designer face filters we needed an end to end workflow solution for our manufacturing. To achieve this we have collaborated with Guy Alroy of Early Vision as our pattern cutting solution provider because of its intuitive, easyto-use tools and functionalities. Its insight into implementing Early Vision down the road, to enable efficient workflows for mass customization and on-demand manufacturing makes it the best in the industry. It will also minimize errors in communication with our partners, hence, saving time and costs." added Mr. Smarth Bansal - DGM Product & Brand - ColorJet. For the print designs, the company has partnered with Emma Tranchini, a renowned Italian fashion designer and NitiSinghal, the native couturier of the New York Fashion Week fame where she displayed her range of apparels that were digitally printed on a Colorjet Textile Printers.

The face filters are unique adhering to safety standards and putting in creative design prints to encourage more people into wearing them. The products include Multilayer Safety masks made up with 100% Cotton with 120 TC and melt blown material with moisture control anti-bacterial finish achieving a strict 95% Bacterial Filtration Efficiency(BFE). The designs are digitally printed on the fabric with Oekotexâ&#x201E;˘ Approved Inks making the masks fit for human use and ecologically compliant.

Oxyvent is also attempting at bringing its designer masks into corporate culture and has tied up with several leading brands in the market to customize the masks as per their branding needs. The whole range of products comes for men, women and kids, and can be explored at www.oxyvent.org

At the Launch of Oxyvent Face Filters Mr. M. S.Dadu, Managing Director Colorjet Group said," The vision to create a cloth based protection filter which provides superior filtration, yet being highly breathable was key to the innovation. As masks would become the essentials in the coming days, a fashionable yet fully functional air filtering mask is the need of the hour. We have conceptualized a hand crafted fashionable necessity that provides safety while encouraging the fashion it has yet to set. Committing to our core design values of being Economic, Efficient and Ecological, we are March - April 2020

For more details, please contact: Arun Rao Taurus Communications +91 98250-38518 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net Faisal Shakeel ColorJet India Ltd Cell: +91 78279-57563 Email: faisal.shakeel@colorjetgroup.com 521

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EXAM RESULTS

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

522

March - April 2020

EXAM RESULTS

March - April 2020

523

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

EXAM SCHEDULE - 2020

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

524

March - April 2020

EXAM SCHEDULE - 2020

Solutions That Can Enhance Your Brand Add life to your business ideas with our Brand Building Solutions March - April 2020

525

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SUBJECT INDEX

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

526

March - April 2020

SUBJECT INDEX

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Central Office

We have temporarily shifted to 69, Vishnu Prasad Building, Room No.1, 1st Floor, Opp. Ovenfresh, Ranade Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971, E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, Website : www.textileassociationindia.org March - April 2020

527

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SUBJECT INDEX

FORM IV (See Rule 8) Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION 1.

Place of Publication

The Textile Association (India), Central Office 69, Vishnu Prasad Building, Room Nom No. 1, First Floor, Opp. Ovenfresh, Ranade Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028.

2. Periodicity of Publication

Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year)

3. Printer's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri Ashok Bagwe Indian Sundaram Art Printing Press 12, WadalaUdyogBhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala, Mumbai - 400 031.

4. Publisher's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Shri J.B. Soma Indian 15, Shewanta Heights, Punyai Nagar, Pune Satara Road, Dhankavadi, Pune - 411 043

5. Editor's Name Nationality Address

: : :

Prof. (Dr.)Ravindra V. Adivarekar Indian Dept. of Fibres& Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019

6. Name and address of individuals who own the newspaper and partners holding more than 1% of the total capital

: The Textile Association (India), Central Office 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road, ShivajiPark, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028

I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. Mumbai 1stAPRIL 2020

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

(Sd/-) J.B. SOMA Publisher

528

March - April 2020