E journal may jun 2013 by TheTextile Association (India)

The Textile Association (India) (Founded 1939)

ISSN 0368-4636 ISO Certified Association

May - June 2013 Volume 74 No. 1

EDITORIAL BOARD Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHA Technical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai

Contents

Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKAR Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

MEMBERS Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, Bangalore)

Editorial : Everyone wants Cleaner Technologies: But none knows who pays? by Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli,

Geotextiles and its Application in Coastal Protection and Off-shore Engineering by Ashis Mitra

Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai) Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai) Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (LEITAT, Spain) Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai) Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRI (Texastech University, USA)

Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur)

Dyeing of Milk Fibre with Marigold and Turmeric Dyes by M. D. Teli, Javed Sheikh, Sanket P. Valia & Pushkar Yeola

OFFICE BEARERS National President Mr. D. R. MEHTA National Vice-President Dr. ANIL GUPTA Chairman Mr. K. D. SANGHVI Vice-Chairman Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Hon. Gen. Secretary Mr. V. D. ZOPE Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA Hon. Treasurer Mr. V. N. PATIL Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Chairman P.A.C. Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY Chairman B.P.C. Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR

Printed at : Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai Published by PAVITRA PUBLISHER Mr. J. B. SOMA (Publisher) 7A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS., Near N.N.P. No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065. M.: 9819801922 E-mail : pavitra1941@gmail.com / jb.soma@gmail.com

JTA is a Blmonthly Publication of THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028. Phone : (91-22) 2446 1145 â&#x20AC;˘ Fax (91-22) 2447 4971 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com www.textileassociationindia.org JTA is Abstracted By : Chemical Abstracts, USA Indian Science Abstrats, India World Textile Abstracts, UK Texincon, India

Synthesis of Several Newly Disperse Dyes and their 18 Application in Textile Printing by M. M .El-Molla, Zeinab H. Ismaeil, Fekria M. A. Soliman & Shaimaa H. Abd-El Monem Dendrimers - An Auxilliary in Dyeing by Saptarshi Maiti & R. V. Adivarekar

Artificial Neural Network & its Applications in Textiles by S. D. Bhambure, A. J. Dhavale, P. V. Kadole, & D. V. Kodavade

Texperience Textile Industry - an ocean filled with opportunities by Mr. V. R. Sai Ganesh

Texnotes RSL in Textile Wet Processing by Saptarshi Maiti & Shyam Phadke

OTHER FEATURES News Product Technology Advertisement Index Forthcoming Events

42 57 37 60

Editorial Everyone wants Cleaner Technologies: But none knows who pays? The Society of Dyers and Colourists organized the 10th International conference on Cleaner Technologies for Textile Processing for a Green Tomorrow. This conference held in Mumbai had in all 7 presentations sandwiched between panel discussions on brand expectations on the ZDHC (zero discharge of hazardous chemicals) roadmap and managing hazardous chemicals in the textile supply chain. Mr. Silvano Storti from Italy made a presentation on Zero liquid Discharge- a Reality. He sounded very confident of his experience with the technology application in various parts of the country. Mr. Sunil Chaubal spoke on Membrane Technology for Cleaner production, where he discussed the advantages and disadvantages of micro, ultra and nano filtrations and explained their process of recovery of the Indigo dye from the textile waste effluents as well as poly vinyl alcohol from the waste discharge. Although, in the Indian industry they have not so far installed such systems, however they have developed the demonstration unit showing the concentration building exercise of Indigo from point 5gpl to around 40gpl using nano filters of various kinds. Similarly poly vinyl alcohol could be concentrated from 2% effluent into 12% concentration level. Dr. Ton Kaarsgaren from Italy spoke on Clay Technology for a Cleaner production, in which he emphasised that clay being a mineral, it does not possess any COD and it is possible to reduce the COD levels of waste water as clay adsorbs the additionally soluble COD. Mr. Armin Traub from Germany spoke on Textile Printing solutions for Eco-Compliance, and he compared the textile printing based on plastisols, silicones and water based systems in terms of their merits and demerits and also the price comparisons. Mr. D. Subaash Kumar from Tirupur presented a paper on Clean Production in a Dye-HouseA Practical Study, wherein he described various measures taken in their unit in order to estimate the water first and subsequently reduce its use in the process. Use of solar energy for steam generation, application of natural evaporators as used in Germany, on-site water recovery by the use of eco-friendly anaerobic / ozone treatment, replacement of wood boiler by the fully automatic coal boiler, biogas for canteen cooking etc. were the various steps taken by them in order to conserve energy, water and chemicals and consequently bring down the costs of production. He in fact gave the example of the savings they generated during their efforts in cleaner production. Dr. Mujeeb-ur-Rehman spoke on Cleaner Production: Initiative by the Chemical Industry, wherein he highlighted the significance of adopting the sustainability approach by design

rather than the end-of-the-pipe approach. He narrated various steps taken by their company towards ensuring ZDHC or the protection of the environment and the ecosystem at large. Finally, Ms. Aparna Khurana presented a paper on Enzymes for Cleaner Technology, wherein she described a multi-prong approach adopted by their company, DuPont, for sustainable solutions. Use of renewable energy to protect planet and the people is of primary importance and how Prima Green enzymes can create the possibility of shortening the textile wet processing sequence thus reducing the carbon footprint of the processed goods were the main aspects she emphasized in her presentation. Then followed the Panel discussion which was ably chaired by Mr. Bart Van Kuijk and the panellists included Mr. Tirtha Ghosh (Huntsman), Mr. S. S. Aich (Alok Industries), Dr. Dirk von Czarnowski (Bureau Veritas), Mr. Rajesh Balakrishnan (DyStar) and Mr. Niraj Singh (Levi Strauss & Co). Most of the panellists agreed that it is high time the Indian textile and apparel manufacturing / processing industry concentrated on putting their house in order and see that the people and the planet are both well respected. The importance of following norms of REACH, eco labelling and maintaining the adherence to RSL (restricted substance list) etc. was once again stressed upon since it is in the interests of humanity as a whole and thus it becomes the responsibility of all the stakeholders in the value chain to maintain the prescribed standards. While it was agreed upon that the testing at various levels is not only becoming repetitive but also exorbitantly expensive, there is a need to create the trust among all the players so that their integrity in adhering to eco standards and social accountability becomes unquestionable. The presence of fashion brands such as H&M, Levis, C&A etc. further added flavour to this discussion while their readiness was understood to help the processors as much as possible, there was no commitment with respect to paying little more for such adherence to green technology. However, no one was ready to blindly accept the cost of getting into greener technology, although it provides them a competitive edge; hence, while need for such cleaner technologies exists it was not clear that who should bear the costs entailed. Alas! One point on which all of them agreed was that it is the consumer who has to pay for it, as no one wanted to slash their slice of profit.

Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli, Chairman, Editorial Board, JTA

S U B S C R I P T I O N

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

Geotextiles and its Application in Coastal Protection and Off-shore Engineering Ashis Mitra Visva-Bharati University Abstract Geotextiles form part of a group of materials known as geosynthetics. Geotextiles are permeable textile materials designed rather engineered specifically for use in civil engineering and geotechnical applications like erosion control, soil stabilization, reinforcement, separation and drainage. The application is large and has expanded very rapidly worldwide especially during the last decade. Supported by the technological boom, geotextiles has invaded a large variety of domains and won trust and esteem around the world because of their inherent advantages like easiness and flexibility of use, softness (as compared to monolithic and rock constructions), rapidity of installation and long term efficacy. The use of geotextiles can save money by considerably reducing construction times, material costs and the costs of maintaining structures. This review paper highlights the constructional and functional aspects of this emerging branch of technical textiles, and emphasizes the potential role of various geotextile products in erosion control, soil stabilization, coastal protection and offshore engineering. Keywords Geosynthetics, Geotextiles, Erosion control, Soil stabilization, Off-shore engineering.

2. Geotextiles Overview 2.1 Geotextiles Definition Geotech segment comprises of technical textile products used in geotechnical applications pertaining to soil, rock, earth etc. This class of products is loosely called Geotextiles. However, geotextiles particularly refer to flat, permeable, polymer-synthetic or natural textile materials which can be non-woven, woven, knitted or knotted materials. They are used in contact with soil or rock and/or any other geotechnical materials in civil engineering earthworks and building constructions. In fact, geotextiles is one of the members of the geosynthetic family which comprises of geogrids, geonets, geotextiles, geomembranes, geosynthetic clay linters, geopipe, and geocomposites [1-4].

*All correspondence should be addressed to, Ashis Mitra Dept. of Silpa-Sadana, Textile Section, Visva-Bharati University, P.O. - Sriniketan, Dist - Birbhum, WB - 731236 E-mail : mitra.ashis1@gmail.com May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and subsurface drainage. The US department of Agriculture Forest Service also began to experiment with woven geotextiles to stabilize logging roads in the mid1960s. Around this same time in Europe, strong interest was growing in geotextiles, in part driven by higher prices and scarcity of gravel and sand [3]. Geotextiles are ideal materials for infrastructural works such as roads, harbours and many others. Geotextiles today are highly developed products that must comply with numerous standards.

1. Introduction A bridge between civil engineering and textile technology has been created by the invention of geotextiles. There are numerous geopolymeric materials which are used in civil engineering and other geotechnical applications, but probably the most important are geotextiles, which are permeable textile materials or fabrics used for soil stabilization, filtration, protection, and separation. Geotextiles were one of the first textile products in human history. Excavations of ancient Egyptian sites show the use of mats made of grass and linen. Geotextiles have been used for thousands of years. Geotextiles were used in roadway construction in the days of the Pharaohs to stabilize roadways and their edges. These early geotextiles were made of natural fibres, fabrics or vegetation mixed with soil to improve road quality, particularly when roads were made on unstable soil [1, 2]. In the early 1960s, woven monofilament fabric was used to eliminate an erosion problem along waterfront property in Florida. The success of this project resulted in the US Army Corps of Engineers using the monofilament fabric for erosion control

TECHNICAL TEXTILE faces, xii) drainage channel liners, xiii) sedimentation and erosion control, etc. Woven geotextile looks like burlap. It is a fabric made of two sets of parallel strands systematically interlaced to form a thin, flat fabric. The strands are of two kinds - slit film which are flat, or monofilaments which are round. The way these two sets of yarns are interlaced determines the weave pattern that in turn determines the best application for that woven fabric. Weave patterns come in a virtually unlimited variety that do affect some properties of the fabric. Woven geotextiles are generally preferred for applications where high strength properties are needed, but where filtration requirements are less critical and planar flow is not a consideration [3]. Woven geotextiles are mainly used in coastal works, embankment and in or near dams, waterways, and woven geogrids for reinforcement. Both woven and knitted geotextiles are beneficially used for a wide range of both cohesive and non-cohesive soils and they support quick formation of a natural soil filter. They facilitate dissipation of pore pressures and, thanks to their strength characteristics and low elongation; they improve mechanical properties of soil and enable the construction of reinforcing ground structures in this way [5].

2.2 Construction and raw materials of geotextiles Geotextiles are made from polypropylene (PP), polyester (PET), polyethylene (PE), polyamide (nylon), polyvinylidene chloride (PVC), and fiberglass, and their GSM varies from under 40 to over 3000 which are mainly used as landfills. PP and PET are the most widely used. Sewing thread for geotextiles is made from Kevlar or any of the above polymers. Different fabric composition and construction are suitable for different applications. To survive aggressive underground environments, geotextiles must be resistant to various forms of attack, such as mechanical, chemical and biological. Chemical attack may be initiated directly by acidic and alkaline soils or indirectly by the active wastes present in the landfills. Depending on the type of chemical compound, changes in the polymer structure can be brought about by oxidation, chain scission, cross linking, swelling or dissolution of the polymers, volatilization or extraction of ingredients of the polymeric compound, or an increase in the crystallinity of the polymer. In addition the service temperature may accelerate the effects of chemical degradation.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3 Types of geotextiles In general, the vast majority of geotextiles is made from polypropylene or polyester and can be formed into the following fabric categories [2, 4] ◆ Woven monofilament ◆

Woven multifilament

◆

Woven slit-film monofilament

◆

Woven slit-film multifilament

◆

Nonwoven continuous filament heat bonded

◆

Nonwoven continuous filament needle-punched

◆

Nonwoven staple needle-punched

◆

Nonwoven resin bonded

◆

Other woven and nonwoven combinations

◆

Knitted.

2.4 Desired Characteristics of Geotextiles The desired characteristics of woven geotextiles are [1]: ◆ Ability to resist clogging, ◆ ◆

Excellent elongation at break,

◆ ◆

Good grab tensile strength,

◆ ◆

Trapezoidal tear strength,

◆

Very good Mullen burst.

Excellent water permittivity, Good puncture resistance, UV resistance,

2.5 Segments of Geotech There are mainly four segments of Geotech family namely [1], ◆ Geogrid,

The non-woven geotextiles provide planar water flow in addition to stabilization of soil. Typical applications include, i) access road and rail building, ii) dam, canal and pond lining, iii) hydraulic works, sewer lines, iv) asphalt pavement overlays, v) soil stabilization and reinforcement, vi) soil separation, vii) drainage, viii) landfill, ix) filtration, x) weed control, xi) sport sur-

◆ ◆

Geonet,

◆

Geocomposites.

Geomembrane, and

2.6 Functions and Applications of Geotextiles Geotextiles perform one or more basic functions in a 6

May - June 2013

TECHNICAL TEXTILE structure like filtration, drainage, separation, erosion control, sediment control, reinforcement, and (when impregnated with asphalt) moisture barrier. In any one application, a geotextiles may be performing several of these functions [2, 4]. The main functions are explained below. 2.6.1 Separation In this case, a strong and flexible Geotextile is placed between different layers in the construction preventing migration and mingling of materials, yet allowing free movement of water. This increases bearing capacity and provides long-term stability to the foundation layers (Figure 2.1).

Figure 2.3 Drainage function of geotextiles

2.6.4 Reinforcement The mechanical properties of Geotextiles and Geogrid (100 % polyester grid), make them ideal for reinforcing slopes and other soil structures. Reinforcing with appropriate product prevents vertical soil walls and steep slopes from collapsing (Figure 2.4).

Figure 2.1: Separation function of geotextiles.

2.6.2 Filtration In this case (Figure 2.2), the pore structure of Geotextiles is designed to retain particles while allowing free movement of water, making it possible to separate two layers during intense hydraulic activity. Migration of layers, which would reduce the load-bearing capacity of the system is thereby avoided and at the same time water flow is maintained with minimum pressure loss.

Figure 2.4 Reinforcement function of geotextiles

Figure 2.2 Filtration function of geotextiles

2.6.3 Drainage The hydraulic properties of Geotextiles are designed to drain excess water off the construction not by passing through the fabric but by flowing in the plane of the fabric away from the construction. Use of a drainage geotextile (Figure 2.3) ensures ongoing drainage of fluids with minimum pressure loss. May - June 2013

Figure 2.5 Stress relieving function of geotextiles

Geotextiles with their built-in functions are virtually tailor-made or designed based on end-use or application. Major requirements include: tensile strength; permeability to air, fluids and/or light; mesh size suited to 7

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.6.5 Stress relieving The ?exible pre-compressed nonwoven Geotextile fabric designed especially for stress relieving (Figure 2.5) is ideal in both new road constructions and in road maintenance, as it absorbs differential movements in the road layers, preventing re?ective cracking. The bitumen-saturated paving fabric also forms a waterproof interlayer, protecting the subsoil from water intrusion and thereby loss of bearing capacity.

TECHNICAL TEXTILE end-use, such as filtration, sieve or separation; chemical, mechanical or thermal resistance; and durability. Coating materials play a very important role in enhancing geotextile properties and functions. Primary coating materials used include polyvinyl chloride, bitumen, latex, plastisol, silicone and other similar materials [6,7]. Typical filtration applications might include the use of a geotextiles in land drainage, river and coastal defense works, or as an anti-pumping filter below railway ballast [2, 4]. When functioning as a drain, geotextile acts as a conduit for the movement of the liquids or gases in the plane of the geotextiles. Examples are geotextiles used as wick drains and blanket drains. In the most common reinforcement application, the geotextile interacts with soil through frictional or adhesion forces to resist tensile or shear forces. To provide reinforcement, a geotextile must have sufficient strength and embedment length to resist the tensile forces generated, and the strength must be developed at sufficiently small strains (i.e. high modulus) to prevent excessive movement of the reinforced structure. To reinforce embankments and retaining structures, a woven geotextile is recommended because it can provide high strength at small strains. When used as a separation layer, the geotextile prevents intermixing of particles from two soil layers with different properties. Typical separation applications might include geotextiles used in the construction of unpaved access roads, paved roads, railway tracks, domestic drives, paths and patios [2, 4].

Figure 2.7: Golf course and sports field solutions

Figure 2.8: Mining solutions

Figure 2.9: Application in railways

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Some typical applications of geotextiles are depicted in Figures 2.6 - 2.11.

Figure 2.10: Solution for pavement cracking and water ingress in the sub-base

Figure 2.6: Highways and roads construction

Open your business to the world's largest professional network. 8

May - June 2013

TECHNICAL TEXTILE where the slurry with a consistency of papier-mache provides an ideal germination medium. Geotextiles are only superior to hydroseeding, 1) when the growing season is short and plants cannot stabilize the slope quickly, 2) at high altitudes, or 3) where major storms are a frequent occurrence. Too often, synthetic geotextiles are used in situations where hydroseeding would be a far more appropriate choice. This overuse of geotextiles is because of the ease of use and low maintenance required. Geotextiles use, of course, will sometimes mask the slope failures until erosion is too far advanced to effectively and cheaply remediate the slope. When advanced erosion is detected, it means costly restoration. In contrast when a hydroseeded area has crust failure, whether from weather, human or animal activity, the damage is visible early and can be cheaply repaired.

Figure 2.11: Non-woven geotextiles is being used in a drainage application during roadway construction

In erosion control, the geo-textile protects soil surfaces from the tractive forces of moving water or wind and rainfall erosion. Geotextiles can be used in ditch linings to protect erodible fine sands or cohesionless silts. The geotextile is placed in the ditch and is secured in place by stakes or is covered with rock or gravel to secure the geotextile, shield it from ultraviolet light, and dissipate the energy of the flowing water. Geotextiles are also used for temporary protection against erosion on newly seeded slopes. After the slope has been seeded, the geotextile is anchored to the slope holding the soil and seed in-place until the seeds germinate and vegetative cover is established. The erosion control function can be thought of as a special case of the combination of the filtration and separation functions [3]. Ideally, vegetation can form the best erosion control, but this is often difficult to establish. The use of hydroseeding or seed impregnated fabric can be an effective method to establish vegetation. Hydroseeding, sometimes referred to as hydromulching is a process of planting grass that is fast, efficient and economical. A mix is made of mulch, seed, fertilizer, and water. This mix is then pumped and sprayed onto the ground May - June 2013

Some real-life projects on the application of natural fibre-based geotextiles for erosion control and riverbank protection are mentioned below, ◆ A live project carried out by the National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology (NIRJAFT), Kolkata for protection of a part of the bank of Mayurakshi river at Mayureswar and of Brahmani river at Rampurhat, Birbhum, West Bengal (Figures 3.1a and 3.1b).

◆

Application of GarmatTM Erosion Control Mat at the coastal area of Vishakapatnam, Andhra Pradesh (Figure 3.2).

◆

Application of GarmatTM Erosion Control Mat at the Mahanadi Coal Fields, Talcher, Orissa (Figure 3.3).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Erosion control covers a variety of conditions from high velocity stream flow to heavy wave action, to less severe conditions. All conditions should be considered before selecting a method of control. In many arid and semi-arid areas the action of the wind causes considerable erosion. Geotextiles made from natural fibre such as coir, or jute can be used for wind erosion control, dust control, sand dune formation and stabilization. Jute is particularly useful for dust control because of the hairiness of the fibres. Plant fibre-based erosion control geotextiles are subject to decomposition and have a limited shelflife before their inherent durability suffers. The synthetic polymers have the advantage of not decaying under biological and chemical processes, but cause environmental pollution in their manufacture and use, and have associated health risks [3].

3. Erosion Control Mechanism and Role of Geotextiles Erosion is caused by a group of physical and chemical processes by which the soil or rock material is loosened, detached, and transported from one place to another by running water, waves, wind, moving ice, or other geological sheet and bank erosion agents. Clay soils are less erodible than fine sands and silts.

TECHNICAL TEXTILE 4. Protection and Off-shore Engineering Due to sea or river current, fine soils of the bank start migrating causing erosion. Conventional design of cementing the banks is not a solution due to hydraulic pressure of the soil. Only feasible solution is the application of geotextiles or geosynthetics. Geotextiles allow water to pass through but resist the fine soil migration. Geotextiles protect the coast line as their flexibility and permeability ensure withstanding of the impact of waves and currents, preventing erosion and washing out of lines (Figure 4.1).

Figure 3.1a: Natural fibre-based geotextiles is being installed on the river bank

Figure 4.1

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.1b: Condition of river bank with and without geotextiles

Figure 3.2: Application of erosion control mat (Vishakhapatnam, A.P.)

Figure 4.2

Before application After application Figure 3.3: Erosion control mat application at Mahanadi Coal Fields, Talcher, Orissa

Figure 4.3 10

May - June 2013

TECHNICAL TEXTILE grow to nearly $66 million by 2012. Projected annual growth is 12 %, and long-term, it will increase to 20 %. The future for nonwoven and woven geotextiles is bright. Infrastructural programs are being undertaken mainly in emerging markets, but Europe and the United States are seeing increased demand. Especially in emerging countries such as Brazil, India, China and Russia, demand goes along with the rising mobilization and improved public transport facilities - including new airports. The use of geotextiles significantly reduces civil engineering construction costs and drastically extends the life of any construction associated with geotechnical applications [7].

Woven geotextile containment systems in tubular forms filled with locally available sand/slurry are formed insitu on land or in water to protect shore and marine environments. Geotextile Tubes are used as a costeffective alternative to mitigate erosion on coastal shorelines, riverbanks, and lakes using readily available materials for infill. Geotextile Tubes filled with dredged materials or sand and strategically placed will dissipate the wave energy, as well as provide structural support against other erosive forces. Geotextile Tubes can be set in place along shorelines and river fronts either to be left exposed to battle the elements, or incorporated into the environment as part of a manmade dune or riverbank. They can also be placed in the water to serve as jetties and groins.

6. Conclusion Geotextiles offer a safe and economical solution to everyday engineering challenges and construction requirements. Used as replacement of natural materials, geotextile products perform a wide range of functions such as erosion control, soil stabilization, filtration, drainage, separation and reinforcement requirements. Geotextile bags, tubes and containers made with geotextiles are playing a major role in hydraulic, coastal, offshore engineering and river protection works. The use of geotextiles can save money by considerably reducing construction times, material costs and the costs of maintaining structures. The global geotextile market is enjoying strong growth but it is also highly competitive. In order to succeed, geotextile manufacturers have to develop cost effective, innovative products and processes. Furthermore, to increase their competitiveness in the global geotextile market, they must identify market requirements and introduce advanced products which are specific to end-use requirements.

Few real-life projects on application of geotextile products for coastal protection and off-shore engineering works are mentioned below, ◆ Installation of geotextile bags and geotextile tubes along the coast line of the Bay of Bengal from Shankarpur to Haldia, West Bengal (Figures 4.2 and 4.3). ◆ Application of Geotextile tubes at the coastal area of INS Hamla, Malad (W), Mumbai. ◆ Application of geotextile tubes to protect sea wall of Uppada, A.P. ◆ Reclamation bundh using imported geotextile containers at Adani Port, Gujarat (Figure 4.4).

1. Figure 4.4 : Reclamation bundh at Adani Port 2.

5. Geotextile Market According to information provided by Dornier, the global geotextiles market is estimated to have been worth $3 billion in 2009. The nonwovens sector accounts for 74.5 % of the growth; wovens, 25 %; and other systems, 0.5 %. According to GMA, the U.S. and Canadian geosynthetics market has a current estimated value of $2.1 billion, with the U.S. share of that market put at 90 % and the Canadian share at 10 %. Within that market, geotextiles has a 32-percent share. Dornier reports that the growing Indian geotextiles market has a value of some $49.6 million, but it is expected to May - June 2013

3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

Basant T. and Jahan S., Engineering use of textiles in geotextile, http://www.technicaltextile.net/articles/geotextiles. Mandal D. N., Man-Made Textiles in India, XXXV (3), 88, (1990). Geotextiles: The Fabric of Erosion Control; http:// www.multigeo.com sited on August 11, 2013. Mandal D. N., Man-Made Textiles in India, XXXV (7), 241, (1992). Departments of the Army & the Air Force, Engineering use of Geotextiles; Army TM 5-818-8/AFJMAN 321030; July (1995). Koffler A., Choura M., Bendriss A., and Zengerink E., Journal of Coastal Conservation, 12 (1), 11 (2008). Rupp J., Textile World, Jan/Feb (2011), Published on http://www.textileworld.com

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

References

DYEING

Dyeing of Milk Fibre with Marigold and Turmeric Dyes M. D. Teli*, Javed Sheikh, Sanket P. Valia & Pushkar Yeola Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract Fabric made from Casein, the protein present in milk, has already acquired an important position in textile industry and its properties are hailed to be suitable for apparel as well as medical textiles. Also from the environmental perspective, it is considered to be sustainable fibre. The inherent bacteriostatic property of Casein fibres has played an incremental role in increasing its popularity as a fibre. A lot of marigold (which is antibacterial), used in idol worshipping, forms a temple waste and there is tremendous potential to use this waste as a good source of natural dye. Turmeric, a natural dye known for producing bright yellow shades was also used. In the current study, alum, copper sulphate and the tannin mordant extracted from tamarind (Tamarindus indica L.) seed coats were used as mordant in natural dyeing of Casein fabric using turmeric and marigold. The Casein fabrics were then evaluated for colour values, fastness properties, and anti-bacterial activities. The results clearly indicated the advantages of using such mordants both in case of obtaining antibacterial functionality as well as eco-friendliness. Keywords Casein, Natural dyeing, Bacteriostatic, Antibacterial properties.

dyeing, and importing textile and other consumer goods dyed with these dyes [2]. There is considerable rise in the popularity of natural lifestyle based on naturally sustainable goods. The natural dyes for textile colouration has re-flourished due to their recently discovered de-odorizing, anti-microbial, UV protective properties in addition to the elegant shades on different types of fabrics [3 - 5].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Textile materials (natural and synthetic) were coloured for value addition, look and desire of the customers. Anciently, this purpose of colouring the textile material was initiated using natural source of dye. After the synthesis of Mauveine by William Henry Perkin and its subsequent commercialization, the use of natural dyes receded and the position continued to be much the same until in the recent past when growing environmental protection regulations came into existence. For ready availability of pure synthetic dyes of different types/classes and its cost advantages, most of textile dyers/manufacturers shifted towards the use of synthetic colourants. However almost all the synthetic colourants are synthesized from petrochemical sources through hazardous chemical processes which poses a threat towards its eco-friendliness [1].

Applications of waste materials as sources of natural dyes can also assist in the preservation of the environment and also decrease the cost of natural dyeing. There is common practice in India of throwing the temple flowers once used in Idol worship into river water which contributes to the water pollution. The waste disposal of such flowers is itself an issue and hence exploring the potential of using this marigold flower waste from temples for dyeing of textile is important. Dyeing of textiles with marigold flower as a dye as such has been reported earlier [6-13]. Turmeric has been quite popular for producing bright yellow shades and inherent anti-microbial characteristics.

Increasing environment awareness has made people realize the importance of living with a clean atmosphere. Government of Germany was the first to take initiative to put up a ban on azo-dyes manufacturing,

Many of the natural conventional fibres are subjected to dyeing with natural colours. However, relatively very little work has been reported on dyeing of Milk fibres with natural colours in general and marigold and turmeric in particular.

* All correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai. Tel. +91-22-3361 2811 Fax : +91-(22)-3361 1020 E-mail : mdt9pub@gmail.com 12

May - June 2013

DYEING 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials Casein yarn was supplied by RSWM mills limited. The yarn was knitted to make fabric (single jersey) which was scoured and used for dyeing. All chemicals used were of laboratory grade. Marigold flowers and Turmeric powder was obtained from ISCON temple, Mumbai and Ayurvedic Chemist Stores respectively. The tamarind seeds were procured from local market.

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on the fabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100white, 0- black), a* to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations.

2.2 Methods 2.2.1 Extraction of mordant 1% stock solution of alum was made by dissolving 10 gm of mordant powder in 1000 ml water. In case of natural mordants, 1% stock solution was made by boiling 10 gm of mordant powder in 1000 ml water for 1h. The extract was filtered, made to original volume and used for mordanting.

3.2 Washing fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II method [14]. A solution containing 5 g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in rota machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the sample and staining on the undyed samples were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent).

2.2.2 Extraction of dye 1% stock solution of the marigold dye was prepared by boiling 10 gm of dry marigold flowers in 1000 ml water for 1 h. The extract was filtered, made to original volume and used for dyeing.

3.4 Determination of antimicrobial activities of dyed fabrics The antibacterial activity of the treated fabrics was estimated by AATCC Test Method 100-2004 [15]. The reduction in number of bacterial colonies formed with respect to the untreated control sample was estimated by using following equation,

3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Colour value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression; K (1-R)Â˛ = S 2R May - June 2013

100 (B - A) R

B Where R = % reduction in bacterial count, A = the number of bacterial colonies recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar incubated for 24 h contact period, 13

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.3 Light fastness Dyed fabric was tested for colour fastness to light according to ISO 105/B02 [16]. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature 650C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were compared with the standard scale of blue wool (ratings, 18, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 - good, 5 better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent).

2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing of milk fibres The mordanting of knitted Casein fabric was carried out in Rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, RossariÂŽ Labtech, Mumbai) keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1.The fabrics were introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 600C. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 30 min. After mordanting, the fabric was squeezed and dyed using marigold flowers extract as a dye. The mordanted fabrics were introduced in dyebath and dyeing was continued at 600C for 1h. After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washed with cold water. The mordanting and dyeing using turmeric extract was carried out using the same procedure.

DYEING B = the number of bacterial colonies recovered from the inoculated untreated control test specimen swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contact time).

concentrations of either mordant or dye beyond optimum concentrations did not significantly contribute in the improvement of the depth of dyeing which is reflected in K/S values.

3.5 Durability of antimicrobial activity The durability to laundering was measured using washing conditions as per ISO 105-CO6-1M [16].

The results in Table 4.8 clearly indicate the fastness properties of the dyed Casein fabrics obtained using various mordants. The only dyed samples showed much inferior fastness properties as compared to those which were pre-mordanted and dyed. In other words it indicates that the mordants play an important role in holding the natural dye to the fabric. The washing fastness obtained varied in the range of "very good" to "excellent" grade.

4. Results and Discussion 4.1 Colour values of marigold and turmeric dyed Casein fabric The dyeing of Casein fabric using most commonly used metal mordants like alum and copper sulphate and natural mordant tamarind (tamarindus indica L.) seed coat was attempted and results are summarized in Tables 4.1 - 4.8.

Table 4.1: Effect on colour values of only Mordanted and only Dyed Samples

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Initial attempt of the study involved estimation of the contribution of mordant and dye towards colour values of the dyed fabrics. Hence Casein fabrics were initially in one case, just mordanted but not dyed and in second case just dyed without pre-mordanting. The results in Table 4.1 show the increase in K/S values with increasing concentration of mordants. Copper sulphate showed least effect on colour values among the three mordants studied with increasing concentration from 5% to 20%. While the tannin mordants, tamarind seed coat showed highest K/S followed by metal mordant alum. The K/S values increases with increasing dye concentration from 5% to 20%. Casein fibres showed limited dyeability towards turmeric dye and marigold dye in absence of mordants, which might be due to lack of bonding of dye with the fibre in absence of mordants resulting in removal of superficially held dye, during washing. The results of dyeing of marigold and turmeric using different mordants are summarized in Tables 4.2-4.7.

Conc. K/S (%)

0.9327

74.794

-3.794 14.438

0.9582

77.323

-5.174 21.585

1.0956

76.888

-5.426 21.263

1.9022 75.345 -2.486 16.568

0.9446

73.711

1.305

17.268

1.3995

73.222

2.264

17.49

sulphate 15

1.5764

71.838

4.622

15.791

Alum

Copper

20 Tamarind 5

The K/S values were found to be improving with increasing mordant concentration till 20%. For a constant alum concentration, K/S values were found to be increasing for both marigold dye and turmeric dye as their concentration was increased from 5% to 20%. Similarly for constant dye concentration, colour values increased with increase in mordant concentration. The colour values thus obtained, in the case of natural dyes is a combined contribution of the effect of mordant and the dye. Hence the K/S was improved with mordant and dye concentration initially till the near equilibrium values in some cases were reached. The increase in

1.7852 73.273 3.779

18.765

1.2431

73.318

-8.556 12.941

seed

1.4218

72.947

-9.001 11.993

coat

1.5567

69.033

-10.008 20.391

1.911

67.82

-5.949 16.7

0.9914

68.171

-1.683 15.364

Turmeric 10

1.4347

72.178

-0.818 19.45

1.9987

73.848

-0.735 20.765

2.4652 73.512 -0.306 20.72

1.3646

89.166

-7.334 56.821

Marigold 10

2.9508

89.276

-5.176 56.991

2.4064

89.333

-3.699 57.572

2.5179 89.514 -5.148 57.008

Textsmile All my life I thought air was free, until I bought a bag of chips. 14

May - June 2013

DYEING Table 4.2: Effect of different concentrations of alum mordant and turmeric dye solution on colour values. Alum (%)

Turmeric K/S (%)

22.1589 79.026

-2.955 93.043

TSC Turmeric K/S (%) (%)

27.0809 78.475

1.778 94.759

14.4435 70.887

-2.452 73.218

28.7777 79.283

2.522 96.636

25.676

70.261

5.523

74.555

37.8263 78.672

4.004 96.225

26.9971 73.293

1.372

78.519

26.0098 78.579

4.187 96.752

28.4722 73.292

5.281

80.65

29.2929 79.496

-3.551 93.523

15.7206 65.131

3.749

65.248

30.6079 78.907

3.652 97.165

25.7616 71.094

3.359

75.714

33.137

78.714

1.729 95.445

27.5722 71.297

4.294

76.523

30.0502 76.412

7.281 94.905

29.1288 71.729

6.516

78.65

32.4005 79.855

-3.21

94.616

15.9238 64.352

3.498

64.739

33.1288 79.705

1.991 97.268

27.0515 67.94

6.508

71.841

34.7535 74.122

8.606 97.453

28.6639 62.83

8.539

74.51

33.5436 72.249

11.348 95.58

30.1722 64.003

12.976 78.366

34.0205 77.146

-1.342 97.891

18.2661 59.05

5.502

67.201

36.434

1.246 99.103

26.8952 60.952

7.33

70.991

37.1631 76.121 3.864 98.41

29.9193 60.927

8.86

71.488

30.9436

14.185 72.787

77.468

Table 4.3: Effect of different concentrations of copper sulphate mordant and turmeric dye solution on colour values. Copper Turmeric K/S sulphate (%) (%)

5 5 5 5 10 10 10 10 15 15 15 15 20 20 20

5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15

19.1493 22.8882 26.6792 29.5519 18.4003 24.1356 27.3696 29.5705 18.1995 26.1536 28.4376 29.6454 17.532 23.9975 27.5476

60.785 59.471 60.499 59.977 59.977 60.672 61.632 59.877 59.198 61.087 56.334 54.779 53.75 55.407 55.895

0.558 2.837 5.435 9.014 -0.686 2.923 5.013 7.729 0.411 3.847 6.811 9.743 0.657 2.992 6.979

31.4385

55.795

May - June 2013

60.185

Table 4.5: Effect of different concentration of alum mordant and marigold dye solution on colour values

Alum Marigold K/S (%) (%)

64.658 63.291 65.349 65.853 63.049 65.085 67.201 65.307 62.302 65.867 65.214 63.531 60.556 63.44 64.612

5 5 5 5 10 10 10 10 15 15 15 15 20 20 20

5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15

4.3008 6.699 8.3482 10.8415 4.8921 6.8251 10.3651 11.7715 4.9895 7.4599 10.5685 12.6795 5.212 7.7505 10.8714

63.285 67.647 67.798 69.509 63.877 65.573 68.279 69.495 64.379 66.005 56.599 58.357 50.231 54.731 56.617

3.399 3.119 2.52 2.245 2.297 2.68 2.449 2.613 2.4 2.482 5.38 5.657 3.581 5.449 5.62

34.299 38.539 38.1 39.718 33.543 35.466 38.713 40.081 34.318 36.116 39.709 41.893 31.652 37.483 39.516

9.129 65.132

14.0678

57.958

5.42

41.188

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 4.4: Effect of different concentration of tamarind seed coat (TSC) mordant and turmeric dye solution on colour values.

DYEING Table 4.6: Effect of different concentration of copper sulphate mordant and marigold dye solution on colour values Copper Marigold K/S Sulphate (%) (%)

5 5 5 5 10 10 10 10 15 15 15 15 20 20 20 20

58.732 60.223 62.779 64.176 58.414 59.945 61.611 63.258 57.947 59.147 55.593 57.494 51.925 53.093 54.583 56.78

-1.156 0.03 1.327 2.045 -1.898 0.112 1.002 1.844 -2.448 -0.686 1.318 2.495 -2.245 -0.295 0.722 1.934

21.202 23.465 27.14 29.198 20.518 23.188 25.401 27.778 19.638 21.797 25.386 28.306 19.66 21.833 23.987 27.07

5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20

3.2563 4.0107 5.5203 6.6815 3.434 4.239 5.5761 6.7413 3.8376 4.5915 5.8989 6.7894 4.102 4.8049 5.9798 6.8065

Table 4.8: Fastness Properties of dyed samples

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Marigold (%) 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 20 5 10 15

K/S

1.5462 2.1284 2.884 3.5838 1.6281 2.2581 2.9508 3.6367 1.8772 2.4728 2.9632 3.8386 2.0361 2.5527 2.9957

70.207 73.573 74.302 75.863 69.356 71.271 73.46 74.294 70.235 72.471 65.32 66.283 61.959 64.199 63.904

1.704 1.192 1.084 0.938 3.177 2.22 1.614 1.848 2.706 2.68 4.468 3.996 5.85 5.298 6.182

21.118 24.582 25.63 26.597 20.8 22.332 24.42 25.476 22.773 24.634 26.875 27.147 25.184 27.08 25.462

3.9897

64.63

5.56

25.396

Mordant (20%)

Wash Fastness Light Change Staining Fastness in colour on cotton

Marigold (20%)

Tamarind Seed Coat

4-5

Turmeric (20%)

Only

Alum

4-5

Copper sulphate

4-5

2-3

Tamarind Seed Coat

3-4

Alum

3-4

Copper sulphate

3-4

Tamarind

3-4

mordanted Seed Coat (0 % dye ) Copper sulphate

4.2 Antibacterial activity of Casein fabric The results of antibacterial activity of only mordanted samples and only dyed samples as well as that of mordanted and dyed samples are given in Tables 4.9 and 4.10. Only mordanted samples showed higher antibacterial property than that of the only dyed sample in case of copper sulphate as mordant whereas the trend was vice versa incase of alum and tamarind seed coat. The mordanted and dyed samples showed highest antibacterial property. All the three mordants gave more or less similar extent of overall antibacterial activity to casein on dyeing with marigold. Hence the natural dyeing of casein with marigold using different mordants, including ecofriendly natural mordants, can be claimed as simultaneous dyeing cum antibacterial finishing process. There is relative increase in the antibacterial nature with casein mordanted with copper sulphate and tamarind seed coat. In both the cases, copper sulphate mordanted casein followed by dyeing with turmeric first and in next case with marigold, showed the best anti-bacterial results in presence of bacteria like Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli.

Table 4.7: Effect of different concentration of tamarind seed coat (TSC) mordant and marigold dye solution on colour values

TSC (%) 5 5 5 5 10 10 10 10 15 15 15 15 20 20 20

Dye

May - June 2013

DYEING Table 4.9: Effect of mordant type (20%) and marigold (20%) on antibacterial properties

1. Mordant Mordant conc.

Marigold Bacterial Reduction (%) conc. S.aureus E. coli

Alum

61.00

76.25

75.90

80.75

98.50

98.75

82.50

86.75

99.75

100

75.50

82.75

99.50

100

CuSO4 TSC

2. 3.

4. 5.

Table 4.10: Effect of mordant type (20%) and turmeric (20%) on antibacterial properties Mordant Mordant conc.

Turmeric Bacterial Reduction (%) conc. S.aureus E. coli

Alum

61.00

76.25

70.85

72.75

96.5

95.95

82.50

86.75

98.75

99.25

75.50

82.75

98.50

99.00

CuSO4 TSC

6. 7.

8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

5. Conclusion Ecofriendly dyeing and antibacterial finishing of Casein (Milk fibre) was successfully carried out using natural and metal mordants and marigold and turmeric dyes. The dyed products displayed good colour strength which was comparable with those obtained using alum as a mordant. The fastness properties were also comparable for selected mordants. The natural mordanteddyed samples displayed broad spectrum and very high antibacterial activity. The concept of natural dyeing using natural mordant is thus found to be quite promising, as it has potential for replacement of nonecofriendly mordants. The ecofriendly hygienic Casein (Milk) fabrics thus can be obtained using such a concept.

13. 14.

15.

16.

Samanta A.K. and Konar A, Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes, Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, University of Calcutta, India. www.intechopen.com Vankar P.S., Shanker R., Srivastava J., Dyes and Pigments, 33-37, (2007). Shahid M., Ahmad A., Yusuf M., Khan M.I., Khan S., Manzoor N., Mohammad F., Dyes and Pigments, 95(1), 53-61, (2012) Cardamone J.M., Proteolytic activity of Aspergillus flavus on wool., AATCC Rev; 2002:30-5. Singh R, Jain A, Panwar S, Gupta D, Khare SK., Dyes and Pigment, 102, (2005). Teli M. D., Sheikh J., Trivedi R. and Katkar F., Asian Dyer, 9 (3), 37-41, (2012). Vankar P.S., Shanker R., Wijayapala S., Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 6 (1), 1-15(2009). Jothi D., Autex Res J, 8 (2), 49-53 (2008). Ujjin S.and Suesat J., Advanced Material Research, 486, 384-387, (2012). Saha P. and Datta S., Colourage, 55 (5), 5254+56, (2008). Sarkar D., Mazumdar K. and Datta S., ManMade Textiles in India, 49 (11), 409-419 (2006). Sarkar D., Mazumdar K., Datta S. and Sinha D.K, Journal of Textile Association, 66 (2), 6772, (2005). Samanta A.K., Agarwal P., Konar A. and Datta S., International Dyer, 193 (3), 25-33 (2008). Trotmann E.R. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, England: Charles Griffin and Company ltd, 1984. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists. AATCC Technical Manual 2007, 76, Research Triangle Park, NC: AATCC. ISO Technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006. ❒❒❒

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

References

PROCESSING

Synthesis of Several Newly Disperse Dyes and their Application in Textile Printing M. M .El-Molla* Textile Research Division, National Research Centre & Zeinab H. Ismaeil, Fekria M. A. Soliman Chemistry Department, Faculty of Science (Girls'), Al-Azhar University & Shaimaa H. Abd-El Monem Questioned Document Examiner, Department of Forgery and Counterfeiting Research, Forensic Medicine, Ministry of Justice, Lazoughly sq. Abstract Synthesis of new heterocyclic disperse azo dyes and their utilization in textile printing is attempted in this article. New selected disperse azo dyes were prepared by the reaction of 2-thiazinyl diazonium chloride (II) with either aromatic phenol or active methylene compounds. The prepared dyestuffs were established using element analysis, IR measurements, H-NMR and Mass spectra. The suitability of the prepared dyestuffs for traditional printing on polyester and nylon 6 fabrics has been investigated. The prints obtained from dyes containing non polar groups possess high color strength as well as good overall fastness properties when compared to those obtained using dyes containing polar groups. Key words Newly Disperse Dyes, Synthesis, Textile Printing, Polar groups.

through blue to green and therefore complement the yellow/orange colour of the nitrogen heterocyclic coupling components [1]. A lot of research work has been done which is of the interest, in synthesis of condensed arylazopyarzoles as new dyestuff [2-9]. The present work was carried out with the following objectives, synthesis and identification of some newly disperse azo dyes and the possibility of its use in traditional printing techniques on polyester and nylon 6 fabrics.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction A long-term aim of researchers working on dyes has been to combine the brightness and fastness properties of anthraquinone dyes with strength and economy of azo dyes. This aim is now being realized with heterocyclic azo dyes which fall into two main groups, those derived from heterocyclic coupling components and those derived from heterocyclic diazo components. All the heterocyclic coupling components which provide commercially important azo dyes contain only nitrogen as the hetero atom.

2. Experimental Methods 2.1. Materials The following materials were employed in the study reported here,

They are indoles, pyrazolones, and especially pyridones, they provide yellow to orange dyes for various substrates. In contrast to the heterocyclic coupling component, all the heterocyclic diazo components that provide commercially important azo dyes contain sulphur, either alone or in combination with nitrogen. These dyes offer bright, strong shades that range from red

2.1.1. Fabric Polyester (Polyethylene terephethalate) knitted fabric of 150 gsm, supplied by a private sector company, was treated with a solution containing 1 g/l non-ionic detergent at 700C for 1/2 h., thoroughly washed, and air dried at room temperature.

*All the Correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. Dr. M. M. El-Molla National Research Centre, Textile Research Division, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt Email : melmolla@yahoo.com

Polyamide 6 (PA) of 212 gsm, supplied by El-Nasr Company for Spinning, Weaving and Knitting, was 18

May - June 2013

PROCESSING treated with a solution containing 5 g/l soap at 500C for 15 min, then thoroughly washed and dried at room temperature. 2.1.2. Thickeners Commercial sodium alginate thickener of high viscosity (alginate THV 30000), supplied by Franรงoise de Colloids Company. 2.1.3. Chemicals 6-(4-bromophenyl)-4-phenyl-4H-1,3-thiazin-2-amine,4(2-methoxyphenyl)-6-(pyridine-4-yl)-4H-1,3-thiazin-2amine, 6-(4-chlorophenyl)-4-(thiophen-2-yl)-4H-1,3thiazin-2-amine, b-naphthol, a-naphthol, 0-nitrophenol, r-nitro phenol, acetyl acetone, ethyl acetoacetate, benzoyl acetone, sodium nitrite, sodium acetate, ethanol, sodium hydroxide (10%), hydrochloric acid, all of laboratory grade were used.

Figure 2.1: Synthesis of azo dyes (III a-d) and coupling with aromatic phenols

2.2.2.2 Coupling with active methylene compounds To a well stirred cooled solution of 2-thiazinyl diazonium chloride II, a cold solution of active methylene compounds namely, acetyl acetone, ethyl acetoacetate and/or benzoyl acetone (0.01mol) dissolved in 10ml cold aqueous sodium hydroxide (10%) was added drop wise while stirring. The reaction mixture was further stirred for extra 2 hr and was left overnight in the refrigerator. The product was collected, washed well with dilute ethanol then recrystallised form the proper solvent as IVa-c (Figure 2.2).

2.2. Dyestuff synthesis Synthesis of azo dyes (III a-d) involved two steps: 2.2.1. Diazotization of compounds (I a-c) General procedure: A cooled, well stirred suspension of 0.01 mol of 2-thiazinyl diazonium chloride (II) was prepared in 30ml of absolute ethanol containing 0.02mol of anhydrous sodium acetate (1.6g). To this, a cooled solution of sodium nitrite (0.01mol, 0.69g) prepared in concentrated HCl (0.01mol, 0.36g) was added-in parts over a period of 30 min with continuous stirring and cooling below 50C. After this, stirring was continued for 2hr and the clear diazonium salt solution thus obtained was used for the subsequent coupling reaction. 2.2.2. Coupling reaction 2.2.2.1 Coupling with aromatic phenols To a well stirred cooled solution of 2-thiazinyl diazonium chloride (II), a cold solution of aromatic phenol namely, b-naphthol, a-naphthol, 0-nitrophenol and rnitro phenol (10%) was added drop wise while still stirring. The mixture was stirred for further 1hr at 050C and the product was left in the refrigerator overnight. The product was then collected, washed well with dilute alcohol and recrystallised from proper solvent to give III a-d (Figure 2.1).

2.3. Printing method The print paste recipe was composed of synthesized dye (3 g), sodium alginate (3 g) and water (94 g). Sodium alginate is added to cold water and kept overnight, after that the dyestuff was added and stirring was carried out for few minutes. Samples of polyester and nylon fabrics were silk screen printed using the above printing paste; the printed fabrics were dried and fixed at 170 C for different time of fixation i.e. 1, 3 and 5 min. Then it was washed twice with cold water, twice with hot water and finally rinsed with cold water and then air dried. 2.4. Testing and Analysis

Texttreasure In the hopes of reaching the moon men fail to see the flowers that blossom at their feet. -Albert Schweitzer May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 2.2: Coupling with active methylene compounds

PROCESSING 2.4.1. Melting point Melting points of synthesized dyes were determined in open glass capillaries on Gallenkamp melting point apparatus.

can be easily prepared. The presence of an electron withdrawing group such as 4-bromophenyl and/or 4chlorophenyl in the positions 4, 6 at the heterocyclic diazotized amino group appears to increase its tendency to undergo diazotization (high yields 70-85%). The presence of the primary aromatic amino group at position 2 of the hetero aromatic ring was tested by diazotization and coupling with phenols [14] and/or active methylene compounds [15].

2.4.2. IR spectra The infra red spectrum of synthesized dyes was measured using Infra red spectrometer, Perkin Elmer/1650 FT-IR.

Thus, treatment of (I a-c) with nitrous acid at 00C in the presence of concentrated hydrochloric acid followed by coupling with phenols namely, b-naphthol, rnitrophenol, 0-nitrophenol and/or a-naphthol afforded the corresponding azodyes (IIIa-d) respectively. Similarly, the 2-amino-1,3,thiazine derivative (Ib) intermediate was diazotized satisfactorily at 0-50C by nitrous acid in hydrochloric acid, and the diazonium salt solution was used immediately (since it gets decomposed on standing). Subsequent coupling reaction took place readily on adding the diazonium salt continuously to the solution of active methylene compounds in aqueous cold NaOH (10%) by careful addition, while stirring at 0-50C.

2.4.3. 1H-NMR spectra The 1H-NMR spectra for the synthesized dyes was measured in a Varian 400 or Wilmad 270MHZ spectrometer for (CD3)SO solutions using SiMe4 as internal standard. 2.4.4. Mass spectra Mass spectra for the synthesized dyes were recorded in a Varian MAT112 spectrometer. Analytical data were obtained from the micro analytical data centre at Cairo University. 2.4.5. Spectrophotometer measurements The absorbance of the dyes was measured in the ultraviolet visible region between 300 and 700 nm by a UNICAM UV spectrophotometer using 1 cm quartz cell. The dyes were dissolved in absolute ethanol in concentration of 1024 mole/l.

Thus, coupling of 4,6-diaryl-1,3-thiazin-2-yl-2-diazonium chloride (IIa) with active methylene compounds namely, acetyl acetone, ethyl acetoacetate and/or benzoyl acetone afforded the corresponding 3-[(6-(4bromophenyl)-4-phenyl-4H-1,3-thiazin-2yl)diazenyl]pentane-2,4-dione(IVa),ethyl-2-[(6-(4-bromophenyl)]-4-phenyl-4H-1,3-thiazin-2-yl)diazenyl]-3oxobut-anoate(IVb)and/or2-[(6-(4-bromphenyl)-4-phenyl-4H-1,3-thiazin-2-yl)diazenyl]-1-phenylbutane-1,3dione(IVc) respectively.

2.4.6. Color measurements The color strength (K/S) of the printed samples was determined by reflection measurements using an automatic filter spectrophotometer [10].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.4.7. Fastness properties Fastness to washing, rubbing, and perspiration were assessed according to standard methods [11-13].

The structures of compounds (III a-d, IVa-c) were assigned from the following: i) Correct analytical data (Table 3.1).

2.4.8. Color fastness to light Color fastness to light was determined according to ISO test method 105-B01. The evaluation was carried out using the gray scale reference for color change.

Texttreasure

3. Results and discussion 3.1. Synthesis of various disperses dyes. Diazo compounds are well known versatile intermediates in the synthesis of various disperse dyes. The principle advantages of the key compounds (I) used here are that, the yield is high, the reaction time is shorter, the procedure involves only one facile step, the work-up is convenient and thus the starting material

Wise kings generally have wise counsellors; and he must be a wise man himself who is capable of distinguishing one. -Diogenes

May - June 2013

PROCESSING Table 3.1: Physical data of azo dyes (III a-d) and (IVa-c).

Comp. M.P( 0C)/ No. Solvent of cryst.

Colour of crystals/ yield (%)

Molecular formula/ (Mol. wt)

Analysis calcd./found%

III a

80-82/ EtOH

violet 85%

C 26 H 18SN 3OBr (500)

62.4 62.5

3.50 3.7

8.40 8.5

6.40 6.5

---

16.00 16.1

III b

98-100/ EtOH

Yellow 75%

C 22 H 15 SN 4O 3Br (495)

53.33 53.4

3.03 3.1

11.31 11.3

6.46 6.5

---

16.16 16.2

III c

158-160/ EtOH

deep blue 80%

C 22 H 17 SN 5 O (447)

59.06 59.1

3.80 3.8

15.65 16.7

7.15 7.2

---

III d

104-106/ EtOH

Brown 80%

C 24H 16S 2N 3OCl (461.5)

62.40 62.4

3.46 3.5

9.10 9.1

13.86 13.9

7.69 7.7

---

IV a

108-110/ EtOH

yellow 70%

C 21 H 18 SN 3O 2Br (456)

55.26 55.3

3.94 4.0

9.21 9.2

7.01 7.1

---

17.54 17.6

IV b

98-100/ EtOH

pale yellow 70%

C 22 H 20 SN 3O 3Br (486)

54.32 54.3

4.11 4.2

8.64 8.7

6.58 6.6

---

16.46 16.5

IV c

84-86/ EtOH

pale yellow 70%

C 20 H 20 SN 3O 2Br (518)

60.23 60.2

3.86 3.9

8.108 8.1

6.17 6.2

---

15.44 15.5

ii)

Visible absorption spectroscopy measurements of the dyes (IIIa-d) and (IVa-c) as they have shown absorption maxima (lmax) values directly proportional to the electronic power of the substituents in the aryl rings. (Table 3.2).

Dye

lmax nm

Colour of the dye

Table 3.2: Absorption maxima of Dyes (III a-d) and (IV a-c)

XIII a

395

violet

C 6H4Br-4

R OH

C 6H 5

390

yellow

C6H4Br-4

C 6H 5

XIII c

585

deep blue

O 2N

C6H4OCH3-2

XIII d

395

brown

XIV a

390

yellow

C 6H4Br-4

C 6H 5

COCH 3

XIV b

390

pale yellow

C 6H4Br-4

C 6H 5

COOEt

XIV c

390

pale yellow

C 6H4Br-4

C 6H 5

COPh

May - June 2013

C6H4Cl-4

N2O

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XIII b

PROCESSING sorption bands in the region 1643-1654.2cm-1 for stretching vibrations of cyclic C=N. The stretching vibrations in the region 1603.5-1588cm-1 due to C=C and the bands around 1480.1-1487.8cm-1 are due to the -N=Nstretching vibration.

It is clear from the above data that the introduction of an electron-releasing group (OCH3-Ph) and an electron withdrawing group (NO2 at position-2 of the aryl group) in the coupler ring (phenol), the absorption characteristics of the dye increased (lmax 585nm). One cause of the increased intensity might be attributed to the greater polarity of the thiazine dyes. The bathochromic effect noted on replacement of an aryl ring (4-Br C6H4) with a pyridine unit for this class of dyes is well documented [16].On the other hand, the introduction of a strong electron withdrawing function such as -COCH3, -COOEt and -COC6H5 adjacent to the diazotized thiazine system has a disadvantage that these groups reduce the basicity of the nitrogen atoms as they are highly polarized.

* Where

The infrared spectral data of the dyes (IVa-c) revealed the stretching vibrations of cyclic C=N the region 1603.51596.7cm-1 and the stretching band in the region 16551654cm-1 for CO group as well as the other expected groups. iv) The 1H-NMR spectra of the dyes (III a-d) has shown the following signals in Table 3.5.

iii) The infrared spectral measurements of the dyes (III a-d) and (IVa-c) shown in Tables 3.3 & 3.4 * Where

is in Cm-1.

* Where d is in Cm-1.

is in Cm-1. 714.4 (for C-Cl).

The 1H-NMR spectrum of (IVb) revealed the presence of signals at: d 2.49, 2.50 ppm (2x5, 2x3H, 2xCH3), at d 3.30 ppm (d, 1H, CH b), at 4.45 ppm (d,H,CHa), at d 6.25 (s, 1H, CH) and at d 7.46-8.11 ppm (m, 9H, Ar-H).

The infrared spectral data of the dyes (III a-d) revealed the stretching vibration of CH (aliphatic and aromatic) in the region 3080, 2919-2856cm-1. The ab-

Table 3.3: IR spectral* data of the azodyes (III a-d).

Comp.No.

OH (br)

C-H

C=C

-N=N-

N-C-N

C-Br

III a

3420.1

3052.7, 2919.7

1596.7

1482

1329.6

534.1

III b

3431.7

3055.6, 2920.6

1603.5

1485.8

1329.6

531.2

III c

3422

3080, 2934.1

1597.7

1480.1

1392.6

III d

3223.4

3080.7, 2965, 2856

1588

1487.8

1322.9

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Table 3.4: IR spectral* data of the Dyes (IVa-c).

Dye

CH aromatic

C-H aliphatic

C=O

C=N

N=N

C-Br

IV a

3432.6

3055.6

2918.7

1654.6

1599.6

1212.0

533.2

IV b

3438.4

3055.6

2920

1655.5

1603.5

1212.0

530.3

IV c

3426.8

3053.7

2919.7

1655.5

1596.7

1213.0

533.2

Table 3.5: 1H-NMR spectra* (DMSO-d6) of the dyes (III a-d).

Comp. No.

Ar-H

CH a

CH b

CH3

III a

7.45-8.11(m,15H)

6.6 (d, 1H)

3.30 (d, 1H)

10.65 (s, 1H)

III b

7.43-8.08(m,12H)

6.6 (d, 1H)

3.36 (d, 1H)

9.65 (s, 1H)

III c

65-8.92(m, 11H)

6.8 (d, 1H)

3.29 (d, 1H)

3.8 (s, 3H)

11.1 (s, 1H)

III d

7.01-8.33(m,13H)

6.62 (d, 1H)

3.28 (d, 1H)

13.25 (s, 1H)

May - June 2013

PROCESSING v) The 13C-NMR spectrum of the dye (IIIb) has shown the following signals at: d 188.2 (C1), 182 (C2), 144.4 (C3), 136.4 (C4), 134.5 (C5), 131.7 (C 6H, C 8H), 130.6(C7H0, 130.4 (C9), 128.8 (C10H, C11H), 127.2 (C 12H).

The effect of fixation time on the color strength (K/S) of printed polyester fabric with fixation temperature 170 C is shown in Figure 3.2. The results show that the color strength of the prints of all the dyes increases as the fixation time increases from 1 to 5 min. The variations obtained in the color strength of the printed polyester fabrics with differently prepared heterocyclic disperse azo dyes could be attributed to the difference in molecular size, configuration and the presence of polar and non-polar groups in the dye molecule.

vi) The Mass spectrum of the dye (IIIc) has shown the molecular ion peak 449 M+2 for C2H17O4SN5 and the base peak at 64 (100%) for C5H4. The mass spectrum of (IVb) has shown the molecular ion peak M+1 at m/e 343 (20.9%), M at 342 (21.17%) for C 16H 10N 2SBr due to (the elimination of an acyl (COCH3) of m/e 43, a carbonyl ethoxy group at m/e 57 and HCN of m/e 27 respectively). It showed the base peak at m/e (100%) of C13H4NSBr. 3.2. Utilization of the prepared dyestuff in textile printing 3.2.1. Printing of polyester fabric The effect of dyes (IIIa-d) and (IVa-c) using concentrations 1, 3, 5% on the colour strength (K/S) of printed polyester fabric with fixation temperature 170 C and time of fixation 3 min is shown in Figure 3.1.

Figure 3.2: Effect of fixation time on the color strength of printed polyester fabric using dyes (III a-d, IV a-c)

It is clear from the Figure 3.1 that, increasing the dye concentration from 1 to 5% has a marked effect on the color strength of the prints of all the dyes used. It is also noticed that, the dye (IIId) possesses higher color strength and dye (IIIc) possesses the lowest color strength. This may be attributed due to the difference in the nature of subsistent present on the dye molecules, where dye (IIIc) contains non ionic/polar groups in its molecular structure, i.e., the presence of nitro group with in its molecular structure [17].

Figure 3.3: Effect of storing time on the color strength of printed polyester fabric using dyes (III a-d, IV a-c)

3.2.2. Printing of nylon6 fabric Similar sets of experiments were carried out as above using nylon 6 instead of polyester. The results are

Figure 3.1: Effect of dye concentration (III a-d, IV a-c) on the color strength of printed polyester fabric. May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The effect of storing time for 7 days on the color strength of printed polyester fabric with a fixation temperature 170 C for 3 min is shown in Figure 3.3. It is also noticed that, the dye (IIIa) possesses higher color strength and dye (IIIc) possesses the lowest color strength.

PROCESSING represented in Figures 3.4, 3.5 and 3.6 and were similar to the above sets of experiments with just a marginal difference due to change of fabric.

Figure 3.6: Effect of storing time for 7 days on the color strength of printed Nylon 6 fabric using dyes (1-5a-c), fixation temperature at 1700C, fixation time 3min.

3.3. Fastness properties Fastness properties of screen printed PE and nylon 6 are shown in Table 3.6

Figure 3.4: Effect of dye concentration (III a-d, IV a-c) on the color strength the Of printed nylon 6 fabric (fixation temp-1700C, time- 3 min)

3.3.1. Wash fastness It can be seen from Table 3.6 that the rating is between 3-4 for nylon and 4-5 for polyester. The nature and/or the number of substituents on the aromatic moieties of the dye molecules determined the washfastness for printed fabrics. 3.3.2. Perspiration fastness The magnitude of the dye removal from Polyester and nylon fibers under influence of perspiration solutions (alkali and acidic) are shown in Table 3.6. The result indicates that the dye removal could be dependent on the molecular weight of the dye and the binding forces between the dye and the fiber, the dyes (IIIa), (IVb) and (IVc) had perspiration values 4-5 for nylon and 5 for Polyester.

Figure 3.5: Effect of time of fixation on the color strength of printed nylon6 fabric using dyes (III a-d, IVa-c), fixation temperature at 1700C

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 3.6: Color strength and fastness properties of printed polyester and nylon 6 fabrics, using synthesized dyes (III a, d and IV b, c). Dye K/S

Washing

no.

Nylon

Nylon Polyester

Rubbing Nylon

Polyester

Perspiration

Polyester

Nylon

Light fastness

Polyester

Acidic

Alkaline

Acidic Alkaline

Alt

Alt St

Dry We t

Dry

We t

Alt

Nylon

Polyester

IIIa 2.6

1.9

4-5

IIId 8.2

4.6

4-5

5-6

IVb 1.7

1.3

IVc 3.7

3.2

3-4 5

4-5

Fixation temp.-1700C; Fixation time-5 min.

St. = Staining; 24

Alt. = Alteration. May - June 2013

PROCESSING 4.

3.3.4. Light fastness Light fastness is largely affected by the dye aggregation with in the fiber. Generally, light fastness increases with the increase of the color strength. It was found that the light fastness of most dyes range between 4 and 5.

9. 4. Conclusions New selected disperse azo dyes were successfully prepared by the reaction of 2-thiazinyl diazonium chloride (II) with either aromatic phenol or active methylene compounds. These disperse azo dyestuffs proved to be suitable for use in printing of polyester and nylon 6 fabrics. All the above dyes produced bright colours and possess very good over all fastness properties on both fabrics. The prints obtained from dyes containing non polar groups possess higher colour strength.

10.

11. 12. 13. 14.

References 1. Hunger K., Industrial Dyes, Chemistry, Properties, Applications, Wiley-Veh Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim (2003). 2. Elgemeie G.H., Riad B.Y., Nawwar G.A. and Elgamal S., Arch. Pharm. (Weinheim), 320, 2238, (1987). 3. Elgemeie G.H., Elghandour H.A. and Elshimy H., J. Prakt. Chem., 331 (3), 466-74, (1989).

15. 16.

17.

Elgemeie G.H., Fathy N.M., Faddah L.M. and Ebeid M.Y., Arch. Pharm. (Weinheim), 324, 14952, (1991). Elgemeie G.H., El-Ezbawy, S.E., Ali, H.A. and Mansour, A.K., Bull. Chem. Soc. Japan, 67, 73842, (1994). Elgemeie G.H., Helal, M.H. and El-Sayed, H.M., Pigment & Resin Technology, 32(2), 100-6, (2003a). Elgemeie G.H., Helal, M.H. and Ahmed, K.A., Pigment & Resin Technology, 32(1), 10-22, (2003b). Elgemeie G.H., Helal, M.H. and El-Sayed, H.M., Pigment & Resin Technology, 33(2), 91-8, (2004). El-Kashouti M.A., Elgemeie G.H., El-Molla M.M., El-Sayed H.S and Ahmed K.A.E., Pigment & Resin Technology 36, 382, (2007). Jdd D.B. and Wysezecki, G., Color in Business Science and Industry, 3rd ed., Wiley, New York, NY. (1975), DINEN ISO 150 105E04, 6. (1997), AATCC Standard Instrument, AATCC, Research Triangle Park, NC. (2002), DINEN ISO 150 105E04, 6. (1996), Maradiya H.R. and Patel V.S., Chem. Heterocyclic. Comp., 38, 1324, (2002). Zohair M.Y., Soliman F.M.A and Ahmed F.E., Polish J. Chem., 55, 1007, (1981). Gordon P.E. and Gregory P., "Organic Chemistry in Color", Springer-Verlag, Heidelberg, 134, (1983). Griffiths J. and Jones F., JSDC, 93, 178, (1977). ❒❒❒

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3.3.3. Rub-fastness Rub-fastness is an indication of the quantity of loosely adhered dye molecules on fiber. It can be seen from Table 3.6 that, the value of rubbing fastness for dyes (IIIa), (IVb) and (IVc) is 3-4 (both dry and wet) for nylon and 4-5 (both dry and wet) for polyester. High rubbing fastness values are associated with high molecular weight of the dye.

PROCESSING

Dendrimers - An Auxilliary in Dyeing Saptarshi Maiti & R. V. Adivarekar* Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract Dendrimers are a new class of polymeric materials. They are highly branched monodisperse macromolecules coming under the fourth class of polymeric architecture and are termed as 'generations'. The other three classes are linear, branched and cross-linked polymers. Dendrimers are well-defined 3-D class structures with three different functionalities called core, branches and terminal groups. Apart from the bio-medical applications, utilization of dendrimers has been tried on cellulosic fibres like cotton. Dyeing of cotton requires high usage of electrolyte especially in case of reactive dyes. Also cotton textiles provide suitable environment for the growth of micro-organisms causing their degradation. Dendrimers can be used to reduce the application of salt in dyeing and inhibit the growth of micro-organisms on cellulosic substrate acting as an anti-microbial agent. Keywords Dendrimer, Monodisperse macromolecules, Electrolyte, Dyeing, Anti-microbial.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Dendrimers are large and complex molecules with very well-defined chemical structures. From a polymer chemistry point of view, dendrimers are nearly perfect monodisperse macromolecules with a regular and highly branched three dimensional architecture [1]. They consist of three major architectural components: core, branches, and end groups [2, 3]. Dendrimers are produced in an iterative sequence of reaction steps, in which each additional iteration leads to a higher generation dendrimer i.e., the reaction process is repeated [4]. The creation of dendrimers using specifically-designed chemical reactions is one of the best examples of controlled hierarchical synthesis, an approach that allows the 'bottom-up' creation of complex systems. Each new layer creates a new 'generation', with double the number of active sites (called end groups) and approximately double the molecular weight of the previous generation. One of the most appealing aspects of technologies based on dendrimers is that it is relatively easy to alter and regulate the size, composition and chemical reactivity very precisely.

Figure 1.1: Structure of a Dendrimer

2. Types of Dendrimers The first dendritic structures that were exhaustively investigated and received widespread attention were Tomalia's PAMAM [poly (amidoamine)] [1].

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. R. V. Adivarekar Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Matunga, Mumbai - 400019, E-mail : rv.adivarekar@ictmumbai.edu.in

Figure 2.1: Polyamidoamine (PAMAM) dendrimer (Trade name: StarbustTM ) 26

May - June 2013

PROCESSING PAMAM dendrimers are synthesised by the divergent method starting from ammonia or ethylenediamine as an initiator core reagent [5]. They are constructed using a reiterative sequence consisting of (a) a double Michael addition of Methyl acrylate to a primary amino group followed by (b) amidation of the resulting carbomethoxy intermediate with a large excess of ethylenediamine [6, 7]. Products upto generation 10 (a molecular weight of over 9,30,000 g/mol) have been obtained [1]. Figure 2.3: Fretchet's aromatic polyether dendrimer

Based on the original work of Vogtle (in 1993), divergently produced (from the core to the periphery) poly(propylene imine) dendrimers were created by Meijer at DSM of the Netherlands. Today, these PPI i.e., poly(propylene imine) dendrimers are synthesised in large quantities by DSM and are commercially available (as seen in Figure 2.2).

3. Synthesis of Dendrimers 3.1. Divergent Method The dendrimer is assembled from a multifunctional core, which is extended outward by a series of reactions, commonly a Michael reaction. The schematic representation of divergent method is as shown in Figure 3.1. Each step of the reaction must be driven to full completion to prevent mistakes in the dendrimer, which can cause trailing generations (some branches are shorter than the others). Such impurities can impact the functionality and symmetry of the dendrimer, but are extremely difficult to purify out because the relative size difference between perfect and imperfect dendrimers is very small [11-13].

Figure 2.2: Polypropylenimine (PPI) dendrimer (Trade name: AstramolTM)

PPI dendrimers are synthesised by the divergent method starting from 1, 4-Diaminobutane. They are grown by a reiterative sequence consisting of (a) a double Michael addition of acrylonitrile to the primary amino groups followed by (b) hydrogenation under pressure in the presence of Raney cobalt. Products are made upto generation 5 [1, 8, 9].

3.2. Convergent Methods Dendrimers are built from small molecules that end up at the surface of the sphere, and reactions proceed inward (reaction starts from terminal groups progressing towards initiator core) and are eventually attached to a core. This method makes it much easier to remove impurities and shorter branches along the way, so that the final dendrimer is more monodisperse. However dendrimers made this way are not as large as those made by divergent methods because crowding due to steric effects along the core [11, 12, 14].

In 1990, Fretchet introduced the convergent approach to create dendrimers. In convergent synthesis, the procedure is started at the periphery and elaborated to the core. Fretchet's aromatic polyether dendrimer (Figure 2.3) are easily accessible and have been frequently studied [10]. In the last few years many other types of interesting dendritic systems have appeared, although they have been less widely investigated and many have not left the lab. May - June 2013

Figure 3.2: Schematic of convergent synthesis of dendrimers 27

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.1: Schematic of divergent synthesis of dendrimers

PROCESSING 4. Application of Dendrimers in Textile The most available technique followed for application of dendrimer on textile is pad-dry-cure. Samples of cellulosic fabrics can be padded with the aqueous solution of the dendrimer in the presence of bi/ polycarboxylic acids like glutaric/citric acid and sodium hypophosphite (SHP) as a catalyst. The padded samples need to be dried at 80 째C for 5 min and then cured in a laboratory oven at 150 - 160 째C for 3 min. The treated cellulosic fabrics are rinsed thoroughly in hot water for 5 min to remove unfixed materials and airdried at room temperature. Glutaric/citric acid helps in grafting. The grafting mechanism is as given in Figure 4.1 [15].

4.1. Dyeing Cellulosic fibres like cotton is hydrophilic in nature and therefore, it can absorb sweat from the human body and can release onto the surface that makes it comfortable. But it has some inherent limitations such as it is prone to wrinkles, shrinkage, low dye uptake in absence of salt/electrolyte and microbial degradation. Dendrimers serve the purpose of reducing some of those problems when applied on natural cellulosic fibres like cotton, jute, etc [17]. Natural cellulosic fibres are negatively charged due to the presence of carboxylic acid groups from oxidation at the primary hydroxylic sites [18]. Some of the hydroxyl groups on the hydroxymethyl side chains may be ionized at pH 7-8 increasing the negative charge significantly [19]. The negative charges on the surface of cellulose repel anionic dyes and hence lead to inefficient exhaustion which is the ultimate cause of low fixation in cellulose. To avoid this phenomenon, a number of studies mainly on cotton dyeing have been carried out to improve the dye uptake and fastness properties. Exhaust dyeing of cotton with anionic dyes, specially direct and reactive, requires the presence of electrolytes (NaCl or Na2SO4) to suppress negative charge at the fibre surface and promotes dye exhaustion [20, 21]. Modification of cotton fibre to increase the dye-fibre interactions is one of the best means to avoid the less affinity of cotton for commercial dyes of different classes. There are numerous chemicals that can be used to impart cationic charge to cotton fibre. Since reactive and direct dyes are anionic, cationic cotton would be expected to have higher affinity for these dyes. A number of researchers have confirmed the possibility of pre-treating cotton with cationic materials prior to dyeing. Dendrimer is considered one among those chemicals.

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Figure 4.1: Grafting mechanism on the cotton fabric with the PPI dendrimer using bi/polycarboxylic acids

Exhaust technique can also be used for dendrimer application. Zolriasatein et. al have used jute yarns and immersed them in poly (amidoamine) dendrimer-ethanol solution at concentration 2.5% owf for 3 h at room temperature, using a 15: 1 liquor ratio. Then, the resulting material was air-dried for 24 h. The samples were then cured at 100 째C for 50 min. This grafting is carried in an alcoholic media when the generation of poly (amidoamine) dendrimer used is lighter than water, the reaction is shown in Figure 4.2 [16].

4.2. Colour Strength It has been observed that colour strength in terms of K/S is highest for the dendrimer treated materials than the untreated one. As mentioned, for the reaction of reactive dyes with cellulosic fibres, they rely on an elevated pH (commonly over 10.5) and large amount of electrolyte (NaCl or Na2SO4) to achieve satisfactory results [22]. Figure 4.3 reveals that for untreated cellulosic substrates like cotton, a reduction in colour strength occurs when alkali like Na2CO3 is not used and also when electrolyte as NaCl is not used; lowest colour strength is achieved when both electrolyte and alkali are absent which clearly demonstrate the impor-

Figure 4.2: Modification of Jute fibre with dendrimer 28

May - June 2013

PROCESSING tance of using a high pH and electrolyte in the dyeing of cotton with the reactive dye used. It also shows that identical behaviour is obtained for the dyeing of pretreated cotton so far as a reduction in colour strength occurs when both alkali and electrolyte are not used; lowest colour strength is achieved when both electrolyte and alkali are absent. However, it clearly shows that the colour strength achieved for the dendrimer pretreated cotton is much larger than that obtained for the corresponding dyeing of untreated material. The K/ S values displayed in the Figure 4.3 shows that the colour strength of both electrolyte-free and alkali-free dyeings of pretreated cotton are higher than those of the conventional dyeing (i.e. with alkali and electrolyte present) [16, 23].

4.4. Light Fastness Compared to the untreated material in salt-free dyeing, the dendrimer treated cellulosic substrates display a good light-fastness. This is attributed due to increased uptake of the photostable dye on the fibres as shown in Figure 4.5 [16].

Figure 4.5: Effect of dendrimer treatment on light fastness

Figure 4.3: Effect on colour strength of Reactive dyeing in the absence and presence of electrolyte and alkali on dendrimer pre-treated and untreated fabric

4.3. pH The dendrimer application can be carried out at three different pH levels i.e. acidic, neutral and alkaline and it is observed that acidic pH gives better result in terms of dye uptake. Figure 4.4 reveals that the application of dendrimer at pH 4 produces dyeing of highest colour strength than that at other pH [23].

In order to evaluate the anti-microbial activity of the polypropylenimine (PPI) dendrimer, aqueous solutions were tested against Staphylococcus aureus (Grampositive bacterium), Escherichia coli (Gram-negative bacterium), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (Gram-negative bacterium) and Candida albicans (fungus), by broth dilution test methods. In broth dilution test, serial dilutions of the PPI dendrimers are prepared in Brain heart infusion (BHI) nutrient medium and are then inoculated with a standardized concentration of the test bacterium. After 24 h incubation, the lowest concentration of PPI dendrimers that is able to inhibit the growth of the bacteria is referred to as minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) [27, 29].

Figure 4.4: Effect of pH of dendrimer application on colour strength achieved by Reactive dyeing May - June 2013

Moreover, anti-microbial activity of the PPI dendrimer grafted fabrics has been evaluated using a qualitative 29

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

4.5. Anti-microbial Finishing As cotton is a natural fibre, it exhibits an excellent environment for the growth of micro-organisms, this is because of their large surface area and ability to retain moisture [24- 26]. Various chemicals have been engaged to impart protection against microbial degradation of cotton. Those chemicals include inorganic salts, organo-metallics, iodophors (substances that slowly release iodine), phenols and thiophenols, antibiotics, heterocyclics with anionic groups, nitro compounds, urea, formaldehyde derivatives, and amines. But many of the aforementioned chemicals are toxic to humans and are not biodegradable. The demand for eco-friendly process in textile industries substitutes the toxic and hazardous chemicals. Use of dendrimer can be considered in this aspect [27, 28].

PROCESSING and quantitative anti-microbial test against the mentioned micro-organisms according to ISO and AATCC standard methods respectively [29].

The anti-microbial activity shown by the PPI dendrimer grafted cotton fabrics is directly related to the number of free amino groups in the samples. The anti-microbial activity is attributed to the interaction between polycationic structures of PPI dendrimer and anionic cell membranes of bacteria. This interaction induces intracellular component leakage of bacterial cells which inhibits the growth of bacteria or prevents nutrient entry into the bacterial cells by formation of polymeric membrane on the surface of bacterial cells. Hence, it seems that the PPI dendrimer's abundant amino end groups and inherent polycationic nature can provide strong anti-microbial activity [27].

9) 10) 11) 12) 13) 14)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Although there is a slight decrease in the anti-microbial activities of the PPI dendrimer grafted fabrics after washing cycles, the anti-microbial activity is maintained over 92 % after 5 washing cycles. This durable antimicrobial activity of the grafted cotton fabric is probably due to the covalent bonds formed between the PPI dendrimer and the fabric during the grafting process [29].

15) 16)

17)

5. Conclusion Dendrimer pre-treated cellulosic textiles display markedly enhanced colour strength even in the absence of both electrolyte and alkali. Their use in the pre-treatment of cellulosic fibres may thus offer considerable savings of electrolyte and alkali and may allow good fixation of reactive dyes. Apart from that, dendrimers prove to be an effective anti-microbial agent for the cellulosic textiles. Dendrimers play the role of quaternary ammonium compounds and is successful in showing inhibition (approximately 92%) of micro-organisms. Thus the dendrimers can endow a range of applications to textile materials by their unique structure.

18)

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4) 5)

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22) 23) 24)

Holister P., Vas C. R. and Harper T., Cientifica Ltd., 6, Oct., 6-13, (2003). Tomalia D. A., Materials Today, 8, Mar., 34-46, (2005). Jain K., Kesharwani P., Gupta U. and Jain N. K., International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 394, July, 122142, (2010). Taton D., Feng X. and Gnanou Y., New Journal of Chemistry, 31(7), 1097-1110, (2007). Peterson J., Ebber A., Allikmaa V. and Lopp M., Proceedings of the Estonian Academy of Sciences Chemistry, 50(3), 156-166, (2001). Tomalia D. A., Naylor A. M. and Goddard W. A.,

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Angewandte Chemie International Edition (English), 29(2), 138-175, (1990). Tomalia D. A., Baker H., Dewald J. R., Hall M., Kallos G., Martin S., Roeck J., Ryder J. and Smith, P., Polymer Journal, 17(1), 117-132, (1985). de Brabander-van den Berg, E. M. M. and Meijer E. W., Angewandte Chemie International Edition (English), 32(9), 1308-1311, (1993). Tang M. X., Redemann C. T. and Szoka F. C., Bioconjugate Chemistry, 7(6), 703-714, (1996). Grayson S. M. and Fretchet J. M. J., Chemical Reviews, 101, 3819, (2001). Tomalia D. A. and Fretchet J. M. J., Journal of Polymer Science, 40, 2719-2728, (2002). Walter M. V. and Malkoch M., Chemical Society Reviews, 41(13), 4593-4609, (2012). Klajnert B. and Bryszewska M., Acta Biochimica Polonica, 48(1), 199-208, (2001). Pittelkow M. and Christensen J. B., Organic Letters, 7(7), 1295-1298, (2005). Abkenar S. S. and Malek R. M. A., Cellulose, 19(5), 1701-1714, (2012). Zolriasatein A. A., Yazdanshenas M. E., Khajavi R., Rashidi A. and Najafi F., Journal of Applied Polymer Science,127, Mar., 4203-4210, (2013). Wei M. A., Shu-fen Z. and Jin-zong Y., The Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Functional Molecules, 69-75, (2005). Stan-Kleinschek K and Ribitsch V., Colloids and Surfaces, 140, Sept., 127-138, (1998). Bashar M. M. and Khan A. M., Journal of Polymer and the Environment, 21(1), 181-190, (2012). Ahmed N. S. E., Dyes and Pigments, 65(3), 221-225, (2005). Trotman E.R., Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibres, 6th edn. Charles Griffin & Company Limited, Nottingham, 405-429, (1984). Zhang F., Chen Y., Lina H. and Lua Y., Coloration Technology, 123, 351-357, (2007). Burkinshaw S. M., Mignanelli M., Froehling P.E. and Bide M. J., Dyes and Pigments, 47, 259-267, (2000). Zhang F., Zhang D., Chen Y. and Lin H., Cellulose, 16(2), 281-288, (2009). Yuan G. and Robin C., Textile Research Journal, 78(1), 60-72, (2008). Lim S. H. and Hudson S. M., Carbohydrate Polymers, 56, 227-234, (2004). Abkenar S. S. and Malek R. M. A., Cellulose, 19(5), 1701-1714, (2012). Ghosh S.,Yadav S., Vasanthan N. and Sekosan G., Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 115(2), 716-722, (2010). Lopez A. I., Reins R. Y., McDermott A. M., Trautner B. W. and Cai C., Molecular BioSystems, 5, 1148-1156, (2009).

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Artificial Neural Network & its Applications in Textiles S. D. Bhambure*, A. J. Dhavale, P. V. Kadole, & D. V. Kodavade D. K. T. E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract The artificial neural network (ANN) is increasingly used as a powerful tool for many real world problems. ANN has proved its usefulness for many problems in textiles such as prediction of yarn properties, analysis of fabric defects, process optimization, etc. The power of neural networks lies in their ability to represent complex relationships and learn them directly from the data being modeled. The prediction of properties or performance of a process in advance is required to minimize the setup cost and time involved. The ability to predict these properties accurately has become a challenge due to highly non-linear and interactive behavior of textile materials. This paper presents basics of ANN and its applications in different textile domains. Keywords Back propagation, Cotton grading, Fabric engineering, Image processing, Multilayer feed forward network.

Such a structure is called as Artificial Neural Network (ANN). The ANN is a massively parallel distributed processor made of single processing units, which has a natural propensity for storing experiential knowledge and making it available for use [1].

1. Introduction The artificial neural network (ANN) is an information processing paradigm that is inspired by the way biological nervous system works, such as brain processes an information. ANN uses numeric and associative processing to mimic models of biological system. It resembles the human brain in two respects: i.e. knowledge is acquired by the network from its environment through a learning process and interneuron connection strengths, known as synaptic weights are used to store the acquired knowledge [1]. Today, ANN is being applied to increasing number of real world problems of considerable complexity. The advantage of ANN lies in their resilience against distortion in the input data and their capability of learning. They are often good at solving problems which are too complex for conventional technologies e.g. problems that do not have a conventional algorithmic solution [2].

1.2. History In 1943, Warren McCulloch and Walter Pits proposed a model of computing element, called as McCulloch Pits neuron. In 1949, Donald Hebb proposed a learning scheme for pre-synaptic and post-synaptic values of variables. In 1958, Rosenblatt proposed the Perceptron model, which can adjust weights by perceptron learning law. In 1960, Widraw proposed Adaline model for computing element. In 1985, Akley, Hinton and Sejnowski proposed feedback neural network with hidden units. For many years, Neural Networks have been used in various areas of engineering and economics in order to describe the relationship between the parameters that cannot be determined analytically. They were used to simulate learning from examples, detecting patterns, associative memorizing and recalling information [2].

1.1. Definition A set of processing units when assembled in a closely interconnected network, offers a rich structures exhibiting some features of the biological neural network. *All correspondence should be addressed to, S. D. Bhambure, Department of Textiles, D. K. T. E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, 416115. Email : sachindb.dkte@gmail.com May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The procedure used to perform the learning process is called as learning algorithm, the function of which is to modify the synaptic weights of the network in an orderly fashion to attain a desired design objective. In practice, the ANN cannot provide the solution by working individually; rather it needs to be integrated into a consistent system engineering approach [3].

TESTING & ANALYSIS 1.3. Classes of Neural Network There are three classes of neural networks: viz. Single layer feed forward networks, Multilayer feed forward networks and Recurrent networks as shown in Figures 1.2 and 1.3 respectively.

rons. Their function is to intervene between external input and network output in some useful manner. By adding more hidden layers, the network is enabled to extract higher order statistics. The source nodes in input layer supplies respective element of activation pattern, which constitutes input signals applied to neurons in first hidden layer. The output signals of the first hidden layer are used as input to the second hidden layer and so on. The set of output signals of the neurons in the final output layer of network constitutes the overall response of the network to the activation pattern supplied by the source nodes in the first input layer.

1.3.1. Single layer feed forward network The neurons are organized in the form of layers. In a simplest form of a layered network, an input layer of source nodes projects onto an outer layer of neurons. The network is strictly feed forward and hence called as single layer feed forward network [1].

1.3.3. Recurrent network The recurrent neural network is distinct in the sense that, it has at least one feedback loop. A recurrent network may consist of a single layer of neurons, with each neuron feeding its output signals back to inputs of all other neurons. The recurrent network may or may not have hidden neurons. The presence of feedback loops has a profound impact on learning capability of the network and its performance [1].

Figure 1.1: Single layer NN

1.4 Learning of a network A network can be learnt with or without training. The objective of learning is to mold the mapping surface according to desired response. Once the network is structured for a particular application, that network is ready to be trained. To start with, the initial weights are chosen randomly. There are two approaches to learning; supervised and unsupervised. 1.4.1. Supervised learning In this system, both input and output data are provided to network. Then it processes the inputs and compares the resulting outputs against the desired outputs. Errors are propagated backwards through the system, causing system to adjust the weights. The same set of data is processed many times, as the weights are refined. When the system has been fully trained, no further learning is required and the weights can be frozen. A vast bulk of networks utilizes supervised learning.

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Figure 1.2: Multilayer NN

1.4.2. Unsupervised learning This type of network is provided only with inputs. The system itself decides which features to be used to group the input data. It is also called as Adaptive learning. This learning technique is not commercially practiced [4].

Figure1.3: Recurrent NN

1.3.2. Multilayer feed forward network In multilayer network, there is presence of one or more hidden layers whose nodes are called as hidden neu32

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TESTING & ANALYSIS 1.5 Training of multilayer feed forward network by using back propagation algorithm In multilayer feed forward networks, the processing elements are arranged in minimum of three layers i.e. input layer, hidden layer and output layer. The information propagation is only in the forward direction and there are no feedback loops. Even it does not have back connections; the errors are back propagated during training. The multilayer feed forward network involves the minimization of an error function in the least mean square sense, it is also trained by applying this gradient descent method. The back propagation algorithm is also called generalized delta rule, it provides the way to calculate the gradient of error function efficiently using the chain rule of differentiation. The error after initial computation in the forward pass is propagated backward from the output units, layer by layer justifying the name back propagation. For training of neural networks any number of samples can be used, but the accuracy increases with increase in number of samples [3].

hair. The model extracting six scale parameters with image processing and other using an unsupervised neural network to extract features automatically, which are determined in accordance with the complexity of scale structure and the accuracy of the model. It can achieve higher accuracy by increasing number of samples for learning, since accuracy of ANN largely depends on the parameters selected i.e. fineness, staple length and cross section of fibres [5].

There are mainly two types of algorithms; genetic algorithm and back propagation algorithm. The genetic algorithms are algorithms for optimization and learning, based loosely on several features of biological evolution. The field of genetic algorithms was created by John Holland. The back propagation algorithm is often used in actual applications because it has higher learning accuracy, faster recall and simple theory. Its goal is adapting the weights so as to minimize the square error.

Cotton trades in India assess the commercial value of cotton on the basis of "grades" assigned by hand and eye methods by professional cotton classers. Now, a neural network of single layer type can be used to develop models to predict the cotton grading. By this way, cotton grading can be made more reliable and user friendly. Research is going on in this direction to replace the existing subjective grading with the objective one. To be precise, the properties of cotton that are measured by using ANN are colour of cotton, trash present and ginning preparation and the parameters selected were staple length, Micronaire value, moisture and short fibre contents. The blend out of two different kinds of fibres, the exact proportion in which the mixing has to be done (to obtain the required properties of the yarn) can be predicted using ANN [6].

2. Applications of ANN in Textiles 2.1 Fibres An Artificial neural network in its simplest form i.e. a single layer neural network is used by Mukhopadhay and Siddiquee for the prediction of copolymer components [4]. The free radical copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternary ammonium cationic comonomer diethylaminoethyl acrylate (DMAEA) has been investigated in inverse emulsion. The copolymer composition is determined from residual monomer concentrations and different temperature levels. The results shown that, ANN can predict copolymer composition with moderate accuracy of 68-70 %, as a function of reaction conditions and conversions.

2.2 Spinning Zeng et al. have analyzed modeling methods for predicting the tensile properties of air jet spun yarns [7]. Numerical simulation provides a useful insight into a relationship between yarn tenacity and the fibre parameters, which are selected as inputs to neural net-

Figures 2.1 shows the intelligent fibre classification system. Here, ANN in its recurrent form is used to classify two kinds of animal fibres; Merino and MoMay - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 2.1: Intelligent fibre classification system

TESTING & ANALYSIS work. The neural network model of multilayer feed forward type predicts yarn tenacity using input parameters. The predicted and experimental values showed an excellent agreement upto 90%, indicating that the neural network is the successful method for predictors. They also analyzed the effect of input parameters on yarn tenacity with neural network model and found to be significant.

Chung Feng Jeffrey et al. studied the relationship between process variables and molecular structure of polyester (PET) yarns [10]. The thermo-mechanical properties of PET yarns were determined from melt spinning process parameters by using ANN. Although the internal structure of ANN is incomprehensive with respect to mechanisms of modeled relations, it was accurate way to make data and relations between data sets easily accessible. The accuracy of prediction between actual and predicted values was judged by using regression analysis method. 2.3 Texturing Das used a multilayer feed forward network with back propagation algorithm to determine the optimized machine settings of a draw texturing machine, with regard to desired yarn properties [11]. The properties of yarn like tenacity and elongation are predicted by using regression analysis and the process parameters used are draw ratio, D/Y ratio (the ratio of surface speed of friction discs to the yarn linear speed), yarn delivery speed and primary heater temperature. The values predicted by ANN and regression analysis are compared by using correlation analysis and found that, the ANN values are showing correlation coefficient of higher degree (R=0.9023). The supervised learning method was used, in which both input and output are fed to the network.

Figure 2.2: ANN model for yarn engineering

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Ramesh et al. predicted the tensile properties of yarn from fibre properties [8]. The feasibility of yarn engineering is demonstrated in Figure 2.2, by developing a yarn to fibre "reverse" model using ANN. This approach is entirely different from the prevailing forward models, which predict the properties of final yarns by using the fibre properties as inputs. The cost minimization of cotton fibre was ensured by using classical linear programming approach in combination with ANN. The engineered yarns demonstrated good agreement with the targeted yarn properties. Spinning consistency index (SCI) was chosen as input for this purpose, as the regression equation of this index comprises most of cotton properties. The results of experiment had shown a moderate accuracy of prediction, as the single layer feed forward neural network with supervised learning method was employed.

Traditionally, the quality grades of false twist yarn packages are classified by human inspection, but the result may be affected by personal and subjective factors. Shih-Hsuan Chu et al. used the image processing technology to extract the defects in yarn packages [12]. They used recurrent neural networks with an unsupervised learning algorithm, to classify the quality grades of the yarn packages. The parameters assessed for classification were weight, diameter and length of yarn wound on packages. From the experimental results, they obtained the classifying rate higher than 90%.

Luo. Cheng and David Adams used an ANN for prediction of relationship between fibre properties and yarn strength [9]. A three layer feed forward network along with a correlation regression is used. They used USDA cotton fibre and processing test results for this investigation. The fibre properties like upper half mean length, length uniformity, short fibre content, strength, fineness and maturity ratio were measured using HVI. All cotton samples were spun into 22s ring spun yarn. Yarns were tested for skein test, elongation, appearance and imperfection. The CSP was used as a prediction target. When the neural networks were trained by a training set CSP values could be predicted from the neural networks in the prediction mode. Then the predicted CSP were correlated with the actual CSP and a good agreement upto 80% is found to be exist between fibre properties and yarn strength.

2.4 Knitting Ertugrul and Ucar studied the prediction of bursting strength of knitted fabrics [13]. Bursting strength of cotton plain knitted fabrics is predicted before manufacturing by an intelligent technique of neural network and neuro fuzzy network, by achieving a significant savings in cost and time required for trial and error. Among many parameters that affect fabric bursting strength; the fabric weight, yarn breaking strength, 34

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elongation and loop length are the input elements for this prediction. The bursting strength had shown higher degree of correlation coefficient (R=0.9442) with respect to the selected parameters.

are used; consisting of an input layer, one hidden layer and an outer layer. As it has the ability to cope with the non-linear regression property, this method can reinforce the effects of image identification [16].

Prediction of total hand value of knits is reported to be successful by Park [14]. A fuzzy neural network provides an effective tool for prediction of total hand value of outerwear knit fabrics. The principal mechanical properties like stretchiness, bulkiness, flexibility, distortion, weight and surface roughness of the knitted fabrics are correlated with experimentally determined Kawabata total hand values and fuzzy transformed overall hand values. A fuzzy neural network is developed to predict and display the drope images of garments made of different fabrics and styles. The new approach is used to develop a prototype drope prediction system, to predict drope of women's dress styles made from different fabrics.

Automatic recognition of woven fabric patterns are presented by Boong et al [17]. The neural network and image processing technology are introduced for classifying woven fabric patterns. An auto correlation function is used to determine one weave repeat of the fabric. The reflected fabric image is captured by CCD (charged coupled device) camera and digitized by computer system. The learning vector quantization's algorithm as a learning rule of the artificial neural network enables recognition of woven fabric types more effectively. The results demonstrated that, the three fundamental weaves can be classified accurately and structural parameters such as yarn spacing, its variance and the ratio of warp to weft spacing can also be obtained. The system consists of a PC and CCD camera equipped with an attachable zoom lens. The fabric image is captured by a lightening device which is mounted at the end of the camera and it is zoomed on the image, which is also displayed on the coloured monitor. The image is then digitised by the AC to DC convertor and processed using techniques such as thresh-holding and auto-correlation to analyse the fabric pattern. The original image is converted into a grey level image to improve computer processing time and speed and the histograms are obtained.

2.5 Weaving Rocco Furferi et al. provided a predictive model of a coating process for forecasting the final characteristics of a coated fabric, based on the process parameters [15]. The process parameters selected were coating blade angle, temperatures of coating and curing, thickness of coating film and speed of coating; for prediction of air permeability, tearing strength and thermal conductivity of the coated fabrics. The multilayer feed forward ANN is trained and validated using a wide experimental database. The work is proved to be useful for technicians in selecting the optimal processing parameters for obtaining the desired coated fabric properties. The developed system requires technicians to set the values of process parameters and to stimulate the ANN based model to forecast the quality of coated fabric. The research work reported highest prediction performance of about 97% between actual and predicted values.

Jasper W. J. used the back propagation algorithm along with the recurrent neural network to study the missing ends and picks, oily fabrics and broken fabric, all often found as a defect in fabric [18]. The correct selection of parameters for input layer plays a great role in recognition rate. Once a defect occurs in a fabric, its periodicity is changed so that corresponding intensities at specific position of spectrum obviously changed. These intensions can act as characteristics parameters and can be substituted in ANN for learning.

An image processing system is used by Atiqul Islam et al. as a tool for dynamic inspection of fabrics; the inspection sample is a piece of plain white fabric. The four defects are holes, oil stains, warp lacking and weft lacking. The image treatment employs a high resolution linear scan digital camera. Fabric images are acquired first, and then the images are transferred to a computer for analysis. Finally, the data is adopted as input for neural network which is obtained from readings after treating the images. In this system, there are three feed forward networks with supervised learning May - June 2013

In a study by Tsai and Hu, the efficiency and accuracy of a method of detecting fabric defects that have been classified into different categories by a recurrent neural network [19]. Four fabric defects (missing ends and picks, oily fabrics and broken fabric) most likely found during weaving were learned by network. The method used for processing image is co-occurrence based method, by which six parameters are obtained. The results shows that, the fabric defects inspected by 35

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TESTING & ANALYSIS

TESTING & ANALYSIS means of image reorganization in accordance with ANN agrees with initial expectations. For each fabric, the results show that the total classification rates are above 96%. The total classification rate is 88% with the statistical method, while that with the ordinary method is 24%.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Uster fabric scan system uses ANN in evaluating wrinkled fabrics with image analysis. Wrinkles in cloth usually develop with deformation during storage [20]. It is not easy even for trained observers judge the wrinkles. The visual information stimulates their senses and make them to judge the grade of wrinkle. Since visual evaluation is complex and bias, we cannot use linear evaluation system for auto inspection of wrinkles in fabric. For this purpose neural networks are widely used. Since networks are non-linear, the training rule is regularized as non-linear optimization problem.

Figure 2.3: Neural network for fabric engineering

In prediction of human psychological perceptions of clothing sensory comfort, ANN is widely used. The objective is to know the predictability of the clothing sensory comfort from psychological perceptions by using feed forward back propagation network in ANN system. In order to achieve the objective, a series of wear trials are conducted in which 10 sensory perceptions (clammy, clingy, damp, sticky, heavy, prickly, scratchy, fit, breathable and thermal) and overall clothing comfort is rated. Good agreement between predicted and actual clothing comfort perceptions proved that, the neural network is effective technique for modeling the psychological perceptions of clothing sensory comfort. It is also found that, the predicted comfort score from the model with hidden neurons and the linear output neuron has a better fit with the actual comfort score than other models with different combinations of hidden and output neurons. Compared with statistical modeling techniques, the neural network is a fast and flexible predictive tool with a self learning ability for clothing comfort perceptions [22].

Input parameters such as angular second moment (to measure the smoothness of digital images), contrast, correlation, entropy and fractal dimension are obtained using image analysis and are fed to the neural network algorithm. The mean sensory value presenting the grade of wrinkled fabric as output is obtained with desired parameters. The parameters to be perceived such as density, size, form and contrast can be inspected using multi-input and multi-output concept of neural network. A specific algorithm named "Kalman's Filter Algorithm" is used for this purpose and results are referred to be very much feasible for evaluating wrinkled fabrics. The relationship between structure and properties of the fabric is complex and inherently non-linear, to create a predictive model one must resolve these complexities. The optimization of input parameters required to produce a fabric as per end use is called as fabric engineering [21]. Fabrics can be engineered either by weaving, knitting or bonding. Neural networks in feed forward mode are successfully implemented in all three to optimize the input parameters. The yarn properties and machine settings are used as inputs to predict the fabric properties as outputs. The construction of neural network for fabric engineering is shown in Figure 2.3

3. Conclusion Ultimately, an ANN is one of the hopes available to textile industry to integrate elements such as production, properties, quality, cost, statistical process control and process optimization. ANN is computer based technology that can simulate characteristics of human interference for industrial benefits. ANN aims at the requirements of the industry like least downtime (the time for which machine remains idle or unproductive), highly competitiveness and reliable estimates of properties and process parameters. The function of ANN is not constant but can be changed dynamically.

Textsmile During a test, people look up for inspiration, down in desperation, and left and right for information. 36

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TESTING & ANALYSIS 12) Shih-Hsun Chu, Hung Ming Chen and Jyh Yeow Chen, Textile Research Journal, 71(4), 313-317, (2001). 13) Ertugrul S. And Ucar N., Textile Research Journal, 70(10), 845-851, (2000). 14) Park S. W., Hwang Y. G. and Kang B. C., Textile Research Journal, 70(8), 675-681, (2000). 15) Rocco Furferi, Lapo Governi and Yary Volpe, Textile Research Journal, 82(12), 1282-1294, (2012). 16) Atiqul Islam, Shamim Akhter and Tumnun E Mursalin, Automated textile defect recognition system using computer vision and artificial neural network, Proceedings of world academy of Science, Engineering and Technology,13, May, 1-6, (2006). 17) Boong Soo Jeon and Ji Hyun Bae, Textile Research Journal, 73(7), 645-650, (2003). 18) Jasper W. J. and Potlapalli H., Textile Research Journal, 65(11), 683-692, (1995). 19) Tsai L. S. and Hu M. C., Textile Research Journal, 66 (7), 474-482, (1996). 20) Meier V., Uster fabriscan: The intelligent fabric inspection, http://www.kotonline.com/english_pages/ ana_basliklar/uster.asp 21) Fan K., Wang T., Cheng T., Jou C. and Kou T., Textile Research Journal, 68(3), 179-185, (1998). 22) Wong A. S., Li Y. and Yeung P. K. W., Textile Research Journal, 73(1), 31-37, (2003).

References 1)

Simon H., Neural Networks - A comprehensive Foundation, 2nd edition, Prentice Hall of India Pvt. Ltd., 2,21, (2006). 2) Yegnanarayana B., Artificial neural networks, 5th edition, Prentice Hall of India Pvt. Ltd., Sep., 24,118, (2007). 3) Rao M. A. and Srinivas J., Neural networks algorithms and applications, 2nd edition, Narosa Publishing House,17-31, (2005). 4) Mukhopadhay S. and Siddiquae Q., Asian Textile Journal, 56, Mar., 72-77, (2003). 5) She F. H., Kong L. X., Nahavandi S. and Kouzani A. Z., Textile Research Journal, 72(7), 594-600, (2002). 6) Xu B., Su J., Dale D. S. and Watson M. D., Textile Research Journal, 70, 430-436, (2000). 7) Zeng Y. C., Wang K. T. and Yu C. W., Textile Research Journal, 74, (6), 689-694, (2004). 8) Ramesh M. C., Rajamanickam R. and Jayaraman S., Journal of Textile Institute, 86(3), 459-469, (1995). 9) Cheng L. and Adams D. L., Textile Research Journal, 65(9), 495-500, (1995). 10) Chung Feng Jeffrey Kuo, Kun Iuan Hsiao and Yi Shiuan Wu, Textile Research Journal, 74 (9), 840-843, (2004). 11) Das A., Network application in texturing process and parameters, Texturing viabilities- Proceedings, The Textile Association India- Mumbai unit, 95116, (2005).

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. V. R. Sai Ganesh Mr. Sai Ganesh is currently General Manager (Business Development) in Atul Limited (A Joint Venture Company of M Dohmen & Atul) Thane. He has completed B.Sc from Osmania University, Hyderabad, B.Sc (Tech) and M.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from University of Mumbai, ICT (formerly UDCT), a Post Graduate Diploma in Management from Essae TAPMI, Manipal in Marketing Management and Post Graduate Diploma in Computer Applications for Andhra Pradesh productivity Council. He has worked for various European MNC's like BASF (I) Limited, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (I) Limited and DyStar India (P) Limited, for over 18 years. He is recipient of the best Key Account Manager award in 2001 and 2003 in Ciba Specialty Chemicals (I) Limited. He also has under his belt a Bronze Medal from SDC, UK, for promotion of trainings in India. He is member of various associations like, the Textile Association (India) TAI, AATCC, ASTM, and SDC. He is Hon. Trustee of SDC, EC, India. He is very Energetic and motivating leader with proven ability to effectively manage both personnel and projects. He is also a member of BJP and involved in various social work activities in his personal life.

Being a part of the Indian Textile Industry for nearly 19 years, my thoughts take me down the memory lane to the early 90's, as a student exposed to the best of technologists and of course the concern was the future job opportunities. In those days, the textile industry was on the verge of revival from infamous strikes of the 80's, which took the Industry a few decades back in terms of technology upgradation. The 90's saw the beginning of technological advances and the mill sectors moved from composite units under one roof to fragmented core of expertise development; this lead to many units focussing on spinning, weaving, processing and garmenting expertise, thus a vacuum for the need of technologists to run the show was created. This brought about a change in the mindset of management of these units to develop and harness new skills; there is an ever increasing need of the young technicians who can be the future of this Industry. The textile industry in India is highly fragmented. It is vertically integrated across the whole value chain and interconnected with various operations. The organised sector consists of spinning mills and composite mills. The unorganised sector consists of handlooms, power looms and handicrafts. The major sub-segments of the textile industry are cotton, blended, silk, wool and manmade. The major products in which Indian textile industry deals is readymade garments, suiting and shirting, shirts and trousers, fabrics, bed linen and embroidery work. One should take immense pride for being part of the Indian Textile 38

Industry, which is one of the most important industries of the Indian economy and is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture sector. India's textiles and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India's exports worldwide. The report of the Working Group constituted by the Planning Commission on boosting India's manufacturing exports during 12th Five Year Plan (2012-17), envisages India's exports of Textiles and Clothing at US$ 32.35 billion by the end of XIth Five Year plan, as against of US$ 55 billion envisaged in the Report of Working Group on Textiles for the XIth Five Year Plan and based on historic growth rate of 10% (CAGR), a business as usual approach, will result in exports of US$ 52 billion by the end of XI Plan. An export target of US$ 65 billion and creation of 25 million additional jobs has been proposed with a CAGR of 15% during the XII Plan. At current prices the Indian textiles industry is pegged at US$ 55 billion, 64% of which services domestic demand. The textiles industry accounts for 14% of industrial production, which is 4% of GDP; employs 35 million people and accounts for nearly 12% share of the country's total exports basket. Above all these figures, most importantly provides direct employment to over 35 million people, the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. The Textile Industry has witnessed phenomenal growth in recent years and attracted fair amount of foreign direct investment (FDI). The May - June 2013

TEXPERIENCE strong multi-fibre strong base by highlighting the following important positions reckon by this industry across globe are, ◆

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Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC)

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Setting up of Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDCs)

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100% Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in the textile sector under automatic route

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Revival plans of the mills run by National Textiles Corporation (NTC). Already, for the revival of 18 textile mills, US$ 2.21 million worth of machineries has been ordered for the upgradation and modernisation of these mills. The fundamental strength of this industry flows from its strong production base of wide range of fibres / yarns from natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic /man-made fibres like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. We can just track the

May - June 2013

Silk - India is the second largest producer of silk and contributes about 18% to the total world raw silk production.

◆

Wool -India has 3rd largest sheep population in the world, having 6.15 crores sheep, producing 45 million kg of raw wool, and accounting for 3.1% of total world wool production. India ranks 6th amongst clean wool producer countries and 9th amongst greasy wool producers.

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Man-Made Fibres - the fourth largest in synthetic fibres/ yarns globally.

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Jute - India is the largest producer and second largest exporter of the jute goods.

Government of India has a vision to increase India's share in the global textile trade to 10% by year 2015 from current 3%. To realize its vision, the Government has taken various steps to strengthen the textile sector that include◆

Cotton - Second largest cotton and cellulosic fibres producing country in the world.

The cotton based products, especially in the readymade garments and home furnishings segment will be the key drivers of growth for the industry. An important sector is Technical Textile, which has also tremendous additional potential to the textile market. Currently the consumption of technical textile is 3% which is expected to be 11% this will lead to several benefits, viz, 1.

Manufacturers will become educated and they will invest in building their brands Entry of large manufacturers will result in price decrease, and in providing consumers 39

same products at cheaper rates same as mobile phone industry 3.

Job opportunities will develop indirectly

Increase in export will lead to increase in market value of India

In the liberalized post-quota period, India has emerged as a major sourcing destination for buyers from all over the globe. As a measure of growing interest in the Indian textiles and clothing sector, a number of reputed houses opened their sourcing / liaison office in India. These include Marks and Spencer, Haggar Clothing, Kellwood, Little Label, Boules Trading Company, Castle, Alster International, Quest Apparel Inc., etc. Commercially the buoyant retailers across the world are looking for options of increasing their sourcing from the Indian markets. Indian manufacturers are also pro-actively working towards enhancing their capacities to fulfil this increased demand. The job opportunities for Textile Technologists is not only in the traditional Mill sector, but the Dyes and Chemical Manufacturers, Garment sector, Brand houses as colourists and merchandisers, Service providers like textile testing laboratories, Certification agencies, Audit companies, Fashion houses etc., The future of students in Textiles is bright and remember our Industry still caters to the basic essentials of Clothing of Mankind.

Textsmile Q. Bay of Bengal is in which state A: liquid

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to be about US$ 36 billion. It is the largest foreign exchange earner, contributing to approximately 15% of India's exports and 14% of industrial output. India's solid performance and growth in textile sector is fuelled by several key advantages that the country enjoys in terms of abundant availability of raw material and cheap labour, large domestic market, presence of supportive industries and supportive policy initiatives by the government.

TEXNOTE

RSL in Textile Wet Processing

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Eco friendly wet processing of textiles is the buzz word of the day. The textile industry is very much criticized for the pollution and environmental hazards that we have today. In the face of this predicament, the concept of restricted substance list (RSL) started gaining significance. Many RSLs were launched by statutory and other bodies. This gave rise to a complicated process for the textile chemists. There were very few RSLs which were followed universally. Therefore there was need for a widely accepted RSL. One such RSL is proposed by REACH. REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorization of Chemicals), is designed by European Commission and got into effect since June 2007. REACH encompasses the entire sub disciplines of chemical technology, since we are more concerned with textiles, following is an account of such chemicals which find their application in textiles but are proven to be hazardous. ◆ Heavy metals In recent years, the US consumer products safety commission has witnessed numerous cases of noncompliance recalling due to the excess of heavy metals (especially lead content) in various products. Lead and other heavy metals such as cadmium and chromium, are closely linked to our day to day life and are widely used in consumer products such as electronics, toys, packaging materials, food containers, ceramics, furniture, stationery, and metal attachments, etc. Excessive content of heavy metals in consumer products has an adverse impact on human health and environment. For example, lead can

cause trouble to children's intellectual development if accumulated in their blood. In order to protect human health and reduce pollution of heavy metals to the environment, the international community has issued a series of safety standards to restrict and control the use of heavy metals in consumer products. ◆ Azo Dyes The textile wet processing includes the use of dyes for colouration. Also there are many auxiliaries to be used in order to achieve desired effects. But, unfortunately many of these dyes and chemicals are found to cause hazardous effect to the human health. Therefore, textile industry is one amongst other industries which causes pollution and environmental hazards. So, those dyes and chemicals which are found to be hazardous (many are carcinogenic and mutagenic) are included in RSL. Azo dyes are widely used because they cover entire shade gamut and have very high tinctorial value. Azo dyes are manufactured by using

diazotization and coupling reactions. Therefore, various amines are used in the synthesis of these dyes. The table below depicts the restricted amines. ◆ Phthalates Pthalates are a group of plasticizers with softening and elastic effects. They are widely used in hundreds of types of products such as toys, food packaging materials, medical appliances, shoes, and apparels, etc. Studies have shown that men's sperm reduction over the past few decades may be related to the use of phthalates as softeners. Experts also found phthalates contained in soft plastic toys and children's products may be placed in the mouth of a child. However, placing long enough in the mouth will result in phthalates dissolution whose amount may exceed the safety standards, which endangers liver and kidneys. ◆ PFOS PFOS is a fully fluorinated anion, widely used in the surface treatment of textiles, leather products, paper, furniture and carpets for its waterproofing and oil-resistance. It is also used as intermediates for the production of paints, foam extinguishing agents, floor polish, pes-

4-Aminobiphenyl

3,3'- Dimethylbenzidine

Benzidine

4'-Methylenedi-o-toluidine

4-Chloro-o-toluidine

p-Cresidine

2-Naphthylamine

4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline)

o-Amino-azotoluene

4,4'-Oxydianiline

5-Nitro-o-toluidine

4,4'-Thiodianiline

4-Chloroaniline

o-Toluidine

4-Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine

4-Methyl-m-phenylenediamine

4,4'-Methylenedianiline

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine

2-Methoxyaniline

3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

4-Amino-azobenzene

May - June 2013

TEXNOTE ticides and termite control agents for its chemical stability. In December 2002, PFOS was classified as persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic (PBT) in the 34th OECD Chemical Committee meeting. Consequently the European Parliament has placed a restriction on marketing and use of PFOS and its salts (now included in EU REACH Annex XVII - Restriction List in 2009).

It is quite clear that textile wet processing includes certain chemicals and auxiliaries which have the potential to cause environmental hazards and adverse effects to

human health. The RSL helps in creating awareness amongst the processors for identification of such chemicals. Also, it is a user friendly tool since all the banned substances can be reviewed in one single list along with their hazardous effects. This can further encourage the industries and researchers in finding the alternate and safe chemicals. Such an approach would guide the industry to make the available technologies cleaner and more sustainable. - Saptarshi Maiti & Shyam Phadke

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

â&#x2014;&#x2020; Bisphenol A Bisphenol A is 2,2-bis-(4hydroxyphenyl) propane, or BPA in short. The substance is mainly used

as an important raw material for the synthesis of epoxy resin, polycarbonate, polysulfone, aromatic polyester, phenolic resin, unsaturated polyester resin and flame retardant chemicals, etc. In addition, it is occasionally used as rubber aging inhibitor. It is reported that Bisphenol A is an endocrine disrupter, which can mimic the body's own hormones and may lead to negative health effect.

May - June 2013

NEWS

International Conference: Advances in Functional Textiles An International Conference is organized by Manchester & Cheshire Section jointly with Technical Textiles Special Interest Group (SIG) The Textile Institute, Manchester (UK) and the Technical Textile Sector of the Materials KTN (UK) on 25-26 July 2013 at The Chancellors Hotel and Conference Centre, Chancellor Way Mosley Road, Fallowfield, Manchester, M14 6 NN, UK.

The Textile Association (India) has donned the remarkable role for the development of sector since more than 7 decades. The phenomenal steady growth achieved by TAI through the true democratic spirit of a vast number of dedicated professionals who have worked tirelessly for the cause of TAI. Now it is proud to mention that another feather in the glory has added to The Textile Association

Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery Pvt. Ltd.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

(KTTM) a joint venture between the Kirloskar Group of India and M/s Toyota Industrial Corporation, Japan is equipped with all latest manufacturing facilities and being patronized by many renowned Textile groups in India. KTTM started its operation in 1997 at Jigani near Bangalore by manufacturing High speed Ring Frames with world class technology and till now supplied around 3 Million spindles to spinning industries in India and Abroad. Looking to the growing demand for Super Long Frames, KTTM had been the front runner to continuously work with latest developments & introduced 1440 Spindles Frame in India & showed this during ITME 2008 at Bangalore. This development of KTTM received overwhelming response from market. Since then, Ring frames with spindles up to 1440 or 1632 per machine were popular in the market.

(India). TAI member Mr. Arvind Sinha (Chief Advisor and CEO of Business Advisors Group) is presenting "Defence Textile & Camouflage Fabrics" on 25th July 2013 and Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli (Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology & Chairman - Editorial Board - JTA) is presenting "Cellulose-Metal Nanoparticles Composite Multifunctional Textile Materials" on 26th July 2013 during this conference. Detail programme is attached.

dia and abroad would be beneficiaries out of this new development. Mr. K. Nagireddy, Managing Director of M/s Kallam Brothers opined that with Toyota's strength in automation and present availability of maximum spindles per machine, RXI 240e with 1824 spindles will become the obvious choice for any new spinner.

Mr. M. Kunito switching on the first machine. Mr. K. Nagireddy, Mr. S.V. Govindraj and Mr. Ashok Juneja is also seen in picture.

By maintaining continuous technological developments, KTTM introduced & showcased Design of "Super Long Ring Frame" with 1824 Spindles per frame during India ITME 2012 held at Mumbai and subsequently announced the first order from M/s Kallam group during the event. The first machine of RXI240e with 1824 Spindles was switched on at M/s Kallam Brothers cottons Pvt. Ltd. Sattenapalle by Managing Director of KTTMMr. Masafumi Kunito on 30-05-13. Mr. M. Kunito, while inaugurating the first machine expressed that launching of longest machine is a mile stone in KTTM's history and wished the various spinners of In42

Mr. S.V. Govindraj, Vice President of M/s Kallam group pitched confident that this longest machine will add considerably to the profitability of new spinning mills. Mr. Ashok Juneja Vice president of M/s KTTM, while cherishing association with Kallam group for more than 4 years, appreciated the initiatives always taken by Kallam Group for having latest technology machines at various concerns in their group. For more details contact: Mr. Ashok Juneja Vice President (Textile) Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery Pvt. Ltd. Plot No.10-13, Phase II, Jigani Industrial Area, Bangalore - 560 105 Tel.: 080-27826201/205, Fax: 080-27826207 E-mail:juneja@kttml.com; mktg@kttml.com

May - June 2013

NEWS

Rieter handed over the first Com4®jet license in China Rieter handed over the first Com4®jet license in China 05/13/ 2013 - Rieter handed over the first Com4®jet license in China: Yangtse Spinning has recently been made a licensee of Rieter Com4®jet yarns. During the official ceremony Mr. Heiner Eberli, Head of Sales Rieter China, officially handed over the certificate to Mr. Xia Risheng, Head of Sales and Deputy General Manager of Yangtse.

From left: Mr. Heiner Eberli, Head of Sales Rieter China, Mr. Xia Risheng, Deputy General Manger Yangtse Spinning during the handover of the Rieter Com4®jet license.

The spinning company, Zhangjiagang Yangtse Spinning Co.,Ltd, located about 100 km west of Shanghai, a Sino-German joint venture invested in by Südwolle GmbH & Co.KG, is highly regarded as a premium quality yarn supplier in China. Yangtse Spinning, as all other mills in the Südwolle Group, is operating at the same high standard which assures constant quality and high efficiency in production. With its brand new and complete Rieter air-jet spinning machine line consisting of 14 J 20 air-jet spinning machines, Yangtse Spinning produces Com4®jet yarns of high quality and perfect piecing. Applications such as in 100 % viscose and yarn count Ne 30 - 40 for knitting yarn with high quality requirements are very attractive for premium quality customers. Yangtse Spinning, as the first Rieter Com4®jet licensee, has therefore set a new quality benchmark for

air-jet yarn in the Chinese market. New yarn with new properties. The form of the yarn construction on the air-jet spinning machine by means of an air stream in a spinning nozzle results in a new type of yarn structure. Typical features are the unique low hairiness, high volume, low tendency for staff and high abrasion resistance. This yarn from the Rieter air-jet spinning machine is marketed under the brand name Com4®jet. It creates many benefits, not only in downstream processing but also in the end product and opens up new areas of application. License package from Rieter Rieter actively promotes the supply sources for licensed yarns and also provides a direct link to the licensee via the Rieter website. Licensed customers have the option of profiting from the know-how of the Rieter specialists and attending the Rieter Com4® yarn trading seminar. Also with their own marketing activities, licensed customers receive support from Rieter.

The Italian company, Texgiulia, is committed to yarn quality spun on Rieter rotor machines type R 60. In order to optimally promote the yarns, the company decided to become a Rieter yarn licensee for rotor yarns. The ceremonial presentation of the Com4®rotor certificate took place mid-March 2013 at the company's headquarters in north Italian Rovellasca-Como.

May - June 2013

The fully-integrated open-end spinning plant Texgiulia is part of the Italian Gabel Group and is one of the leading manufacturers of bedding and home textiles in Italy. The company generates its complete added value domestically - starting from yarn production up to the product sales through its own distribution network. L to R: Ezio Tollardo, Dr. Emilio Moltrasio, Matthias Stuessi and Sergio Zonca while ceremonial presentation of the Rieter Com4®rotor, certificate to the Management of the Gabel Group. 43

First and foremost, Texgiulia produces for its own requirements. By the acquisition of further Rieter R 60 rotor spinning machines, the

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXGIULIA Becomes COM4®ROTOR Yarn Licensee

NEWS plant now has a sufficiently large capacity to also produce yarns for third parties. The Rieter yarn license for high-quality Com4®rotor yarns thus offers Texgiulia the optimal promotion platform to win new customers for rotor yarn in future and to develop customer relationships. The ceremonial presentation of the Com4®rotor certificate was held mid-March at the headquarters of the Gabel Group in RovellascaComo (north Italy). In the presence of Dr. Emilio Moltrasio (Delegate of the Board of Directors and

Partner in the Gabel Group) and Sergio Zonca (Technical Director General of the Gabel Group), Rieter sales engineer Matthias Stuessi (Rieter sales engineer) handed over the certificate to the Management. Yarn quality further improved With the yarns, spun on the new R 60 rotor spinning machines, Texgiulia was able to further increase the already very high quality standard of the yarns and substantially improve the running properties in its own weaving unit. Yarn purchasers will also profit from this quality in future.

Suvin and Wadia TESL : a perfect collaboration…

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Wadia Techno-Engineering Services Ltd., which is a part of the reputed Wadia Group of companies, and Suvin Advisors to collaborate for providing value added services to industrial clients in India & around the world. In 2012, pursuant to mutual agreement Wadia group raised its stake in the erstwhile Gherzi Eastern Limited (GEL) to 100%, as a result of which Gherzi A.G. has ceased to be a promoter of GEL and the name of 'Gherzi Eastern Limited' has been changed to "Wadia Techno-Engineering Services Limited (WTESL)" with effect from November 8th, 2012. WTESL has more than 53 years of experience andover 2500 real estate, industrial and infrastructure projects of various natures across the globe. Wadia TESL has wide

network with branches in major cities like New Delhi, Chennai, Kolkata, Pune, Gandhinagar, Bangalore, Hyderabad etc. and more than 380 employees on their roll. Wadia TESL is also registered with renowned banks and financial institutions like World Bank, ADB etc. Suvin is one of the reputed consulting firms for "textile and food industries" in India, offering the entire gamut of Management & Engineering consultancy services from business strategies to overall project management to process management. Suvin, in the past few years, is known to have a good reputation as a qualified consultant in the textile industry providing satisfactory services for more than 125 projects in India & globally. The Wadia TESL - Suvin collabo-

License package from Rieter Rieter actively supports and promotes the supply sources of licensed yarns, one of the measures being a direct link on the Rieter website to the licensee. Licensed customers have the opportunity to profit from the expertise of Rieter specialists and to participate in Rieter Com4® yarn further training courses. Over and above these activities, Rieter supports licensed customers with the implementation of their own marketing actions.

ration shall enhance the capabilities of both the organization as Wadia TESL has enriched experience in implementation for varied sectors like residential & commercial projects, hotels & hospitals, educational institutions, urban planning, industrial, roads & highways while Suvin has a well-experienced team for management consulting and implementation of textile and food projects. Hence the services of both organizations are complementing each other to provide customers with one-stop solutions for specialized textiles and other industries. Wadia Techno-Engineering Services Ltd. & Suvin have come together to meet the dynamic demands of the rapidly expanding global and domestic industry. This association will enrich the industry with effective solutions for future growth which is particularly essential in today's highly competitive market.

Promote your brands with smart way ….. 44

May - June 2013

NEWS

Information technology or IT has been embedded in all spheres of business be it auto, metal finishing, electronics, jewellery, pharma or any other sector. IT has emerged a prime tool for creating competitive advantage for enterprises of all types and all sizes. However misappropriated IT can distort markets and weaken legitimate competition and give birth to unfair competition. The governments worldwide are working to ensure fair competition among trading partner and level playing field. A new law known as the "Unfair Competition Act" (UCA) (www.lexology.com , June 2012) has been enacted in US. UCA intends to ensure fair competition among the trading partners and also promote legitimate trade practices including restricting the undue advantage created by using illegal software. The law actually mandates that companies using IT in their business must legalise their IT usage to sustain and make their business grow. Compliance with the UCA has become a mandatory obligation for export to USA. Recently a case came into limelight (www.indianexpress.com , 25 Jan 2013) when lawsuits were filed against, an Indian company and a Chinese company in California, USA. It was alleged by the state Attorney General, Ms. Kamala Harris that these companies have used pirated/unlicensed software in the production of clothing that they

exported and sold in California. She further suggested that such practices were anti-competitive and companies over the globe indulging in such practices should be warned. The law actually mandates that companies using IT in their business must legalise their IT usage to sustain and make their business grow in US market. The USA is one of the most important export markets for Indian products, so undoubtedly the law poses particularly serious implications for Indian companies selling their products in US market. India faces stiff competition in international trade from countries like China, Vietnam, Japan, Pakistan etc. These countries have a higher usage of unlicensed or illegal software which gives them unfair cost advantages as compared to those who use genuine or licensed software. But due to requirement of IT compliance under UCA, these countries will looser their competitiveness to those countries where piracy is low like India. Thus UCA has actually provided an opportunity to grow in the export market. Furthermore UCA is not applicable to only those firms who are direct supplier of goods to the US market but extends to all the firms involved in the entire value chain (The national law Journal ; 6 May). So it is required on the part of the Indian manufacturers and exporters to be cautious even when purchasing raw material from a supplier in India or

abroad. They should make sure the supplier is using only the genuine IT. In light of this law the companies in USA will prefer to engage only with those suppliers who used genuine IT. Ms. Tamanna Chaturvedi, consultant Indian Institute of Foreign Trade cautions Indian manufacturers and exporters thus (The daily , Feb 2225 ,2013) "China is our tough competitor and adherence to legal IT will provide us an upper edge over China, but we have to avail this opportunity as quickly as possible even before our competitors starts thinking about it" One way out for companies to manage their software better and connect with those customers who want to do business with ethical and legally compliant entities is registration on verafirm.org (earlier known as LMR360) Verafirm is a unique platform which provides a brand identity by self-declaration of your software assets. Once companies register on verafirm.org they get digital certificates stating that they are "verafirm verified" or "verafirm certified company". There is no charge taken from the firms for registration on verafirm.org. To get digital certificate and more information please visit www.verafirm.org. References www.indianexpress.com, www.lexology.com, globalstudy.bsa.org/2011

An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Tool for export competitiveness

NEWS

UCMTF President Interview 2013 French Textile Machinery Hi Tech machinery for Hi Tech textiles UCMTF groups 30 specialty textile machinery manufacturers which are world leaders on their specific markets. Their total annual consolidated turnover of 1 billion Euros (1.3 billion US dollars) makes France the sixth textile machinery exporter. They are particularly strong in long fibre spinning, yarn twisting and texturing, heat setting, Jacquard and dobbies, dyeing, nonwoven and recycling processes. Interview of Bruno AMELINE, the President and Evelyne CHOLET, the Secretary General, to know more about French Textile Machinery manufacturers;

visibility for the whole 2013 and into 2014. Geographically speaking, the differences are huge compared with what prevailed before the crisis. For quite a while our national market for apparel and home textiles has collapsed. More recently, it has been the case also for many of our historical European markets. These markets have shifted to such countries as China and India and to specific places like Turkey but each market can be quite volatile. China has been less buoyant recently but seems to come back; India is very active with the governmental and local investments incentives. For the technical textiles which represent close to 40% of the fiber consumption, the situation is more balanced as the production of these fast growing products is approximately one third in each continent: Europe, the Americas and Asia. Do you think it is dangerous to rely on such remote markets?

Bruno AMELINE, the President

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The global economy is growing but it is not the case in Europe and particularly in France. How are the French textile machinery manufacturers doing? We are back to the best levels that we reached before the crisis which hit the global economy in 20082010. In 2012, many of our companies have achieved record sales and order intakes. The only drawback of this positive situation is that the delivery lead times may be close to one year and sometimes even more. This means that we have a very good

No. We are not competing on the mass markets like cotton spinning. Our companies are SME's, designing, producing and servicing specialized machines offering the latest innovations. This is in our DNA, remember Jacquard, the most well known textile machinery inventor, he was French! Today, with our skills, expertise and experience, we develop creative and innovative solutions for our customers. Even if mostly SME's, the French machinery manufacturers have set up a very effective network to offer the best service to most remote customers' locations. We sup46

port our clients wherever they operate at least as well as a local supplier could do. We do it through offices, warehouses, agents or distributors. For the spare parts, our members are more and more pro-active, some have recently opened warehouses in important markets to deliver the much awaited parts without transportation lead time and with the right level of service. We work with our clients to help them to introduce new products on their markets, to have reliable and cost efficient production processes. It gives us a real competitive advantage. As we strongly believe that our strategy is right, we are optimistic for our future. Another danger could be the copies, how do you deal with this issue? So far, each company had its own policy but, recently, within our association, we have established an active working group on this strategic topic. We absolutely need to protect our intellectual property, it may be our most important asset. We have collectively concluded that the counterfeited machines or parts come from a small number of countries. We will sue the counterfeiters very aggressively. We have strong arguments: our patents, our brands. Most of our customers who, as I said are our long term partners, understand that this strategy is in their long term best interest. We will become more and more pro-active concerning the use of counterfeited parts as we cannot guarantee a machine which uses counterfeited parts. Each company, national associations and Cematex and the machinery May - June 2013

NEWS

Is UCMTF active to promote sustainable development? On Wikipedia, I found an interesting definition of sustainable development: a mode of human development in which resource use aims to meet human needs while ensuring the sustainability of natural systems and the environment, so that these needs can be met not only in the present, but also for generations to come. I have been thinking for many years on our responsibilities as industrialists and good citizens. At first, sustainable development and our corporate goals may have looked, at least partly, contradictory. It is actually not. First of all, end users are more and more demanding on sustainability. This is true for all textile products. For apparel or home textiles, the consumers' demands go up to the textile pipeline from the very powerful international brands and distributors up to us, the machinery manufacturers. For technical textiles, the public and private procurement policies follow the same trends. For example, in France, public procurement criteria include sustainability. Another reason is that we design machines and production processes which save energy, water, and raw materials. Our national manufacturMay - June 2013

ers have found many ways: fine tuning the machines, finding new processes for individual machines, optimizing a whole production line. The textile producers of apparel, home textiles and technical textiles are extremely sensitive to energy, water and raw material savings and compare precisely the investment costs and the savings. Often their own desire to promote sustainable development is supported by profitable returns on their investments. I can conclude in a very positive way, which is now embedded in our corporate strategies and for which we invest heavily in technical expertise: to deliver sustainable profits for our companies we have to act in the context of a sustainable development framework for all our stakeholders and for our global community. Our machines, themselves, have to be manufactured to leave the least possible footprint on the environment. We have to put more emphasis on their eco-design, propose upgrading schemes and plan how the materials used will be recycled at the end of their life. UCMTF can promote such policy. Do you check that the machines you sell are used in safe conditions for the labor force? You are probably thinking of the collapse of a garment factory in Bangladesh which killed more than 1 000 workers and other such horrible drama. Our machines are not used in the garment industry but in the textile industry. The two are fundamentally different. For example, a T-shirt manufacturer's process is mainly labor intensive. On the contrary very high capital investments are necessary in the textile production. The labor force 47

in the textile industry includes a great number of engineers and highly skilled workers. In order to be efficient in spinning, yarn processing, knitting or weaving the plant itself has to be modern with such equipments as air-conditioning. Then, even if our customers do not face the same risks as some garments makers, more and more the products of our customers have to be both eco-friendly and peoplefriendly. Even though the supply chain in apparel is so complex that it becomes quite abstract to the consumers, the recent events may change that attitude and make it compulsory to be much more vigilant on safety. I just read in the news that Bureau Veritas, the global inspection and certification body, had been awarded big contracts to check on the safety issues in Bangladesh. How your association helps the individual companies? First of all, after all the reorganization of our industry, we do not compete against each other. On the contrary, we offer complementary machines, sometimes full lines which are very much appreciated by our customers as they can get a single technology point of entry, it is real competitive advantage. UCMTF is very active to promote our offer worldwide. At major textile shows, UCMTF helps the smaller companies organize a national booth and promote collectively our exhibitors, particularly thanks to its very good relationships with you, the textile media. UCMTF organizes seminars and with the help of Ubifrance and the

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

shows have to work together on this strategic sensitive feature of our business. In this war against copycats we receive more and more support from the governments, the international bodies and the judiciary systems.

NEWS French local representations, invites the local textile companies to attend. In the last 12 months, UCMTF has focused its efforts on the Indonesian and the Indian markets. I am glad to report that the seminars which took place in Bandung attracted more than 150 Indonesian companies from Jogjakarta, Samarang, Solo and

Surabaya and that this March in Delhi and Surat (State of Gujarat) we attracted more than 300 Indian companies. Very interesting contacts have been initiated and it is now up to our companies to follow up on these. The next seminar will be held, in the second semester, in Algeria.

Last but not least, UCMTF organizes press conferences and meetings with you, the textile press. We trust you are an efficient and neutral link between the different textile stakeholders. Our website www.ucmtf.com is also a very easy portal to use both for the press and our customers.

National Seminar on "Innovations & Technological Advancement: Growth Mantra for Textile Industry"

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In an era when the Textile industry is passing through a critical phase, with stiff competition both in the domestic as well as international markets, product diversification, innovation, technology advancement and value addition are the thrust areas for the textile industry to remain competitive in the years to come. Even India's global textile share is 5%, which is far less than that of China, which is 34%. Technology advancement & innovation offers new ways, means and opportunity to the Indian textile industry to sustain the present growth and thrive in near future. The emerging opportunities for the Indian textile industry due to recent unstable situations in Bangladesh and growing demand for cotton yarn and fabrics in China have brought to the forefront the need and the opportune time for the moderniza-

tion of processing, spinning, weaving, garmenting and technical textiles segments. This could catapult a fresh growth with generating employment and value-addition. Keeping this backdrop in mind PHD Chamber is keen to organize a National Seminar on "Innovations & Technological Advancement: Growth Mantra for Textile Industry" at PHD Chamber, New Delhi on 29th July to 3rdAugust, 2013. The main theme of the conference will focus on the emerging and cutting-edge advancements in the frontier areas of Textiles, Machinery, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles which will emphasis on the entire value-chain of textiles, from fibre to fashion fabric, and apparel fabric to technical textiles.

The Seminar will have 8 distinct sessions: ◆ Technology Upgradation Fund: opportunities and current challenges ◆ Advances in Modern Woven Fabrics Technology, Spinning, Knitting & Non woven ◆ Advances in the dyeing and finishing of technical textiles ◆ Advances in Textile Testing and Quality Control ◆ Computer technology for te.xtiles and apparel & soft computing in textile engineering ◆ 3-D fibrous assemblies: Properties, applications and modelling of three-dimensional textile structure ◆ Nanofibres & Nanotechnology in Textiles ◆ Innovation in Textiles

TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONS Book your orders with :

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Pathare House, 67 Ranade Road, Dadar, Shivaji Park, Mumbai - 400 028

Orders accepted by E-Mail : taicnt@gmail.com Ordering and payment on-line on: www.textileassociationindia.org 48

May - June 2013

NEWS

Society of Dyers and Colourist Silver Medallist Dr. K. S. Murthy SDC is the world's leading independent, educational charity declared to advancing the science and technology of colour in a changing world. SDC awards medals in recognition of exceptional service to the Society, outstanding knowledge of colouration technology or in the interest of the tinctorial and allied industries or both and achievement in the knowledge and practice of colour science and technology. Medals conferred are Gold, Bar to Silver, Silver, Bronze, Centenary Levels. Service to the Society may include an outstanding single contribution to the work related to a particular project or devoted ser-

vice over many years to the headquarters-based and /or regional committees. Service to the industry (which includes academia) recognises an outstanding single contribution to the tinctorial or allied industries or prolonged valuable contribution (technological or educational nature). Dr. K. S. Murthy received the Award and Certificate in person from President Richard Straughan for, "Sustained support for the Indian Textile Industry" at the award ceremony on 26th April 2013 in Bradford, UK. The occasion was graced by his research supervisor

Prof. Ian Ratee (formerly of University of Leeds), student successor Dr. David Lewis (his batch mate), immediate past President Dr. S. Y. Kamat and his close relatives. Dr. Murthy was immensely pleased that his work years of committed efforts have been recognised and acknowledged by SDC internationally, rewarding him with this prestigious honour. He attributed this honour to support from Pidilite Industries Ltd, alma mater, classmates and print media. He believes that pursuit of knowledge is a lifelong process and knowledge learnt should be passed to the others and he will continue to support the textile industry by the way of writing.

The Enkaptivate Leaders CafĂŠ meet with TAI

The Enkaptivate is specializing in conceptualizing and executing catchments centric and product specific engagement programs for customer augmentation and acquisition. Majority clients are from the Financial & Banking Sectors. The Enkaptivate Leaders Cafe is a small step in that direction of facilitating a platform for intellectual discussion and interaction.

Mr. Avinash Mayekar delivering the presentation

On behalf organizer Mr. Madhu Nair & Ms Ranjana Thakur gave the introduction and the brief of activities of the Enkative. Mr. Madhu Nair replied to various questions asked by the attended audience.

Mr. Arvind Sinha delivering the presentation May - June 2013

Mr. Arvind Sinha, Business Advisors Group, Mumbai presented "Scenario in BRICS Region and Textile Potential" which was very informative paper. Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. presented very interesting on the topic "New Business development and Financial Planning". Mr. Suresh Kotak, Mr. Mr. V.Y. Tamhane, stated about the current scenario of textile industry. Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President, TAI thanked the organizer for organizing the meet and he requested them to organize such short meets in future. About 30 Business Owners and Decision Makers in Textiles Industry were attended.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) Central Office organized a meet with The Enkaptivate, a customer Engagement Company on the topic "Current Financial Market in Textiles Industry" on 15th June 2013 at Ramee Guestline Hotel, Dadar, Mumbai.

NEWS

VDMA: Graduate engineers respond to current challenges Techtextil in Frankfurt provided the framework for this year's award ceremony of the Walter ReinersStiftung (Foundation) of the German Textile Machinery Industry, honouring three successful junior engineers. Energy efficiency and lightweight construction are actually at premium for the junior engineers - the emphases of the promotion, diploma and project studies documents this.

Award-winners with Members of the Board of Foundation and Professors from left to right: Prof Cherif, Waldmann, Hampel, Dornier, Awardwinners Appel, Schneider and Dr. Schenuit, Liebrandt, Prof. Gries

Sustainability -realistic and tangible Peter D. Dornier, chairman of the Lindauer DORNIER GmbH Board of Management and chairman of Walter Reiners-Stifung paid hom-

age to the awardees. In his celebratory speech he outlined the textile machinery industry as the starting point of intelligent applications - in the field of sport, automotive, aviation and space industry, construction and engineering. Fibrereinforced materials, i.e. composites, exert a special fascination in these sectors. They prove particularly useful, where reduction of weight is required: For example in motor cars and aircrafts. Composites make a major contribution to reduction of petrol and kerosene consumption and are as such concrete examples for sustainability, said Dornier. Increase energy efficiency rationalise production proc esse s The promotion prize in the dissertation category endowed with 5,000 Euros has been awarded to Dr. Heiko Schenuit of RWTH Aachen. In his thesis he developed solutions which considerably increase the energy efficiency of weaving machines. Furthermore, Lars Appel, also of

RWTH Aachen, has been awarded with the promotion prize of 3,000 Euros in the diploma category. The procedure presented in his diploma thesis helps to further rationalise the production of composites. Sebastian Schneider of TU Dresden has been rewarded for the best student research with the creativity prize endowed with 2,000 Euros. His study explains creative concepts to optimise material flow during production of composite components. This is another step forward to a substantial automation of composite manufacturing. Walter Reiners-Stiftung (Foundation) - Promoting Talents With the Walter Reiners-Stiftung the VDMA Textile Machinery Association is actively engaged in promoting junior engineers. Each year, the foundation provides an incentive for top performers by granting two promotion prizes for dissertations and master/diploma thesis as well as one creativity prize for seminar papers. Students regularly gain an insight into practice with excursions to member companies and to the leading textile exhibition ITMA, which are financially supported by the foundation. Particularly high-performance students are supported by scholarships.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Mumbai Unit Journal of the TEXTILE Association

organises

India Tex 2013 Textile Exhibition - Fibre to Fashion Date : 18, 19, & 20th October 2013 Venue : VIA Ground, Vapi Industries Association, Plot No. 135, GIDC, Vapi - 369 195 (Gujarat).

For more information & Stall booking please contact: The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Tel: 022- 2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax: 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail: taimumbaiunit@gmail.com / taimu@mtnl.net.in / taimu@bom3.vsnl.net.in Website: www.textileassociationindia.com Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convenor: +9167515676 Anil G. Mahajan, Exhibition Coordinator: +9324904271 50

May - June 2013

NEWS be shutdown to prevent it from burning out.

Niketan College of Home Science

This seminar was conducted by Department of Fashion Technology of Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science in collaboration with SDC-India and UK on 13th June 2013 in the college hall. The speakers were Mr. Richard Straughan (President SDC UK) and Mrs. Elizabeth Straughan (Trustee SDC UK) both experts in dyeing. They shared their deep knowledge with staff and students of the department. Principal Dr. Machado welcomed the guest.

L to R: Dr. Ela Dedhia, Dr. Deepa Rathi, Mr. Richard Straughan, Mrs. Elizabeth Straughan

The seminar was inaugurated by Mr. Richard and Mrs. Elizabeth along with Dr. Ela Dedhia, the Head of Specialisation and Dr. Deepa Rathi, senior faculty. Dr. Dedhia introduced the guest and the theme of the topic. Mr. Richard explained how it is possible to dye with reactive dyes using less water and energy for better sustainability of re-

sources that are very important for sustenance of the globe. He spoke on the concept of 'Right First Time' where, uniform and correct dyeing takes place at the very first time. Exhaust Dyeing process helps in reduction in the use of resources such as energy & water and thus promotes sustainability. Mrs. Elizabeth spoke on microencapsulation for finishes such as fragrances that can be used for their Aromatherapeutic effects, so called Cosmetotextile finishes that donate a body benefit to the skin such as Super Moisturisers or vitamins such as vitamin E and capsules that can work as deterrents against mosquitoes or forest ticks. She also mentioned of thermochromic microcapsules that will change colour with heat, such as body heat on a garment for fashion novelty or at much higher temperatures. These higher temperature changes can be utilized to highlight a safety issue such as having a very high temperature change in a coating that could be put on a motor housing. This would enable the housing to start to change colour if the motor was to overheat which would allow it to

She also highlighted on the richness of India. She said that she was very impressed with our beautiful country and many of the things that she had experienced during her short visit. She said that one of the things that had struck her the most was the wonderful family values that seemed to still exist in our country which she felt were being lost in parts of the UK. She told the students to continue to embrace this as well as embracing all of the opportunities that were available to them for their careers. In her opinion it was possible for these two things to co-exist as they were both very important. It was followed by a very lively question answer session. The session was very well taken.

Group photo with Guest, faculty members and students attended the seminar

The vote of thanks was proposed by Mrs. Pratima Goyal

IMPORTANT The Textile Association (India) Members of TAI Kindly update your email ID & Mobile Nos. to ensure to receive regular updates from our end. Name TAI Unit Membership Type Membership Number Mobile No. E-mail ID

Please forward the same to Jb.soma@gmail.com May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Right First Time-Role of Sustainability

NEWS

Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster OKHLA GARMENT & TEXTILE CLUSTER (OGTC) is organizing 9TH International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles ICAHT - 2013 on 20th & 21st September, 2013 at India Habitat Centre, New Delhi with the Theme "CREATIVE THINKING". Department Institute MSME, Govt. of India and Office of the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textile, Govt. of India has consented for their support for this event. AEPC is a lead sponsor.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

India apparel industry has a hope of coming into the picture of preferred sourcing destination due to the changing scenario in China, Europe, US and Bangladesh. The global apparel manufacturing industry is expected to grow more than ever in times to come. The apparel manufacturers are now adopting new techniques to increase their trade. New business models and competitive strategies are used to enhance profits and growth. The conference is intended to cover all aspects of the apparel industry, including the problems of small-scale enterprises in the developing world, the barriers which are hindering the growth of this industry, the strength and weakness of the manufacturers in different region, globalization issues, resource and manpower scarcity, quality of the product, trade laws, adopting new techniques to improve productivity, managing global supply chain and finally changing apparel industry trends with ever-changing fashions. A cross-disciplinary event, the idea is to explore creativity and the cre-

ative process through the lenses of imagination and innovation. The conference aims to provide an environment for academics, researchers and practitioners to exchange ideas and recent developments in the field of apparel manufacturing. The conference is also expected to foster networking, collaboration and joint effort among the conference participants to advance the theory and practice as well as to identify major trends in apparel manufacturing. The Convention will be a great opportunity for international trade fraternity to know the dual strengths that India can offer, not only as a great supplier base, but also as a fashion destination for international brand. Key Issues To Be Addressed In Icaht -2013 ◆ Environment : Carbon Foot Print Measurement in Garment Industry ◆ Direction: A Clear sense of where the organization is heading and how it will get, there that is meaningful to all employees ◆ Leadership: The extent to which leaders inspire action ◆ Culture: Shared benefits and quality of interaction within and across unit ◆ Accountability: The extent to which individuals understand what is expected of them, have authority to carry it out and take responsibility for delivering results. ◆ Coordination: Ability to evaluate organizational performance and risk and to add opportuni52

◆

◆ ◆

ties when they arise. Capabilities: The presence of institutional skills and talent required to executive strategy and create competitive advantage. Motivation: Presence of enthusiasm that drives employees to put in extraordinary effort to deliver results. External: Quality of suppliers, partners and other external shareholders to drive value. Innovation : of new ideas and the ability of the organization to adopt and shape itself as needed Responsible Fashion: Leading to Responsible Competitiveness Technological Up gradation: Appropriate and Continuous up gradation and absorption

The garment industry owners, their CEO's, industry professionals, academicians, representatives from industry associations, researchers, consultants, service providers from India and other part of countries will be attending this conference also the final year and post graduate students etc. will get benefited.

Day One -20th September, 2013 - Presentations 1) Presentations from International and Indian invited speakers from varied fields of management, manufacturing, marketing, social responsibility etc. And 2) Design Creations in fashion Show format by Students of Lady Irwin College, Department of Fabric Science 3) On the sidelines of the conference there will be a Poster Presentation to encourage the research May - June 2013

NEWS & postgraduate students a poster competition on the conference theme will be held where 3 best poster presentations will get cash reward. Day Two - 21st September, 2013 - Workshops Specific workshops are arranged on

selected areas from the above list by eminent experts from India and Abroad for specific skill professionals It may not be out of place to mention that the concept of workshops and general interest presentations is a novel concept adopted by

OGTC and has been found extremely beneficial to the industry in terms of specific skill up-gradation and creation of general awareness in the present times, which are really termed as knowledge economy.

Invited Speakers Speaker

Country

Subject

Dr. Mike Fralix

USA

Opportunities for business growth in manufacturing- How does India capture the transition

Mr. Virender Goyal

India

Competitive growth of manufac turing industry in Bangladesh- A Case Study

Mr. Devdas

India

3G Train the Trainer concept and System Implementation

Mr. Prashant Agarwal

India

The Road to 2025- Market, Trade and Investment Trends

Mr. Jean Michele

France

Using Fashion Trend to Glasman come out with winning model

Aquarell

India

Path of a Market focused company: A case Study

Mr. Harinder Lamba

Bahrain

Supply Chain management - Key to growth globally as well as locally

Wazir Advisors

India

ROI: Converting employees into productive assets- Case Studies

Mr. Aman Gulati

India

MSME Lean Experience as an auditor

Mr. David Birnbaum

Hong Kong

Competitiveness in Indian Apparel Industry

Dr. Rajesh Bheda

India

Results & Grand Benefits for Business & workers programme A case study

DELEGATES FEES: Members of OGTC The Textile Association (India) Noida /Gurgaon / Apparel Export Cluster ATDC Faculty

Rs.3000/-

2. Others

Rs.5000/-

3. Indian Students through Institutes

Rs.2000/-

4. Foreign Delegates

US$.200/-

Organizing Committee: Mr. PMS Uppal, Chairman Mr. Vijay Mathur, Co-Chairman

For further details if any contact: Mr. R.C. Kesar, Conference Chairman Mr. M.K. Mehra, Conference Advisor

OKHLA GARMENT & TEXTILE CLUSTER D-104, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi-110020 India Ph. (91)11- 41609550, Fax (91)11- 26816520 Email. ogtc@airtelmail.in, ogtc@ogtc.in , ogtc@rediffmail.com Visit us at www.ogtc.in

May - June 2013

09810091812 09868200116

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. (a) (b) (c) (d)

NEWS

Textile - Background Information BCF Technology 99 % higher efficiency -things you need to know about carpet manufacturing Carpet manufacturing is a handicraft with an ancient tradition. It is assumed that the Babylonians were already weaving fibers 3000 years before Christ. Today, new carpets are presented at the various international trade fairs and markets each distinct in terms of their pattern, their color and the end-customer properties.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Over the past 50 years, the importance of various raw materials used in the carpet industry has changed dramatically. Up until the 20th Century, natural materials were predominantly used - such as plant fibers made from cotton or coconut or fibers of animal origin including wool and silk, for example. Currently, natural products only make up approximately 12 percent of all the raw materials deployed, while manmade raw products constitute 88 percent. Manufacturers of manmade yarns use polypropylene, polyamide and polyester in their products. Either filament yarn or spun yarns can be used to manufacture carpet yarn. The latter are produced using manmade staple fibers and are usually combined with natural fibers. Spinning filament yarns has manifested itself as the prevalent method for producing carpet yarn: it is more cost-effective to manufacture and the finished carpet is lower-maintenance, more robust and more hypoallergenic. Manufacturing filament yarn requires the polymer to be melted in an extruder and pressed through

spinnerets. In the case of spun-dyed yarn, the dye is added prior to extrusion using a metering unit. Downstream to the spinning system - the filament bundle, which generally comprises 144 individual filaments and has an overall titer (unit of measure for determining the fineness of the manmade fibers and given in "tex" or, more commonly, in "dtex") of between 1000 and 3000 dtex - is drawn using godets (driven rolls that act as yarn guides or take-off devices); hence creating a strong and extremely thin filament material. In the subsequent process step, the yarn is textured (physical and/or chemical manipulation of the smooth filament yarn with the aim of giving the yarn textile properties) and cooled on a cooling drum. To this end, it acquires the properties essential for processing it into carpet (volume and bulk) and is transformed from smooth filament yarn into bulked continuous yarn (BCF= bulked continuous filament). Subsequently, the yarn is tangled using a tangling unit (for tangling the filament yarns) in order to keep the tangled multifilament together for further processing and finally the yarn is taken up. The take-up speed, which is dependent on the polymer and titer, is 3000m/min for standard polypropylene yarn. The BCF carpet yarn systems in the Oerlikon Neumag product portfolio are called S5, S3, Sytec One and S+. Each of these is customized to the specific requirements of various client groups. The S5, S3 and S+ are three-end systems, 54

whereby the S5 is Neumag's to date most-sold BCF system. The single-filament Sytec One is particularly flexible. The latest S+ standard machine is the successor to the S5 and S3 systems and unites their benefits in a fast and simpleto-operate machine with proven components. Thanks to a straight yarn path and increased spinning height, it reaches higher production speeds. Compared to the S5, these results in is an increase in productivity of 10 percent at dtex and an increase in productivity of up to 40 percent at 2100 dtex. Furthermore, a redesigned winder mechanism enables an efficiency increase of up to 99 percent. Following the manufacture of the BCF yarn Optionally, the BCF yarn can either be cabled or twisted. In this step, a yarn is twisted or several yarns, also of different thicknesses, are brought together and plied. In this way, the yarn receives greater bulk and the carpet acquires a denser appearance. To ensure that the cabling or twist effect is durable, the yarn is treated with heat and steam within the context of a thermosetting process. To manufacture carpets, the yarns are either woven or tufted. Woven carpets require three yarns, socalled warps, in order to form the carpet including the product's upper surface and the backing material. If manufacturers wish to produce carpets with a fleecy surface - so-called velvet-pile carpets - the woven loops are cut open evenly sheared and fixed by applying a latex layer to the reverse of the carpet. In the case of tufting, which was first invented in the USA, the yarns May - June 2013

NEWS are needled through a needle bar into a prefabricated backing material, for instance a fabric or a nonwoven, and form a series of loops. In the case of loop-pile carpet, these loops are left as they are. However, the loops are cut off using a blade in the case of a velvet-pile carpet. Tufted carpets must also always be stabilized with a binder coating made of latex and a secondary carpet backing. To produce a colored carpet, makers can choose between various methods depending on the polymer and the manufacturing technique used: dyes can be added during the

spinning process or the yarn or the entire carpet can be printed or dyed as a single piece. In the case of the piece dyeing process or printing the carpet, the yarn is manufactured from raw white polyester or polyamide and the carpet is predominantly produced using the tufting process. With this method, manufacturers can respond to shortterm customer color requirements. Applications We distinguish between three different applications: the residential sector, the public sector and the automotive sector, whereby the residential sector makes up the larg-

est share, for which carpets are supplied as wall-to-wall carpeting or rugs. In the public sector, carpets must above all be particularly friction and flame-resistant. However, the automotive applications are the most challenging, as the carpet manufactured from spun-dyed yarn has to be very closely shorn and hence irregularities become quickly apparent. With a three-quarters share of the market, demand is dominated by tufted carpets. Furthermore, artificial turf, bath mats or carpets made from needled felt are additional applications.

Canton Fair Autumn 2013 - A colossal event with awesome business potential.

This biannual event held in Guangzhou every spring and autumn is the largest trade fair in China. It is also a comprehensive one with the longest history, the highest level, the largest scale, having the most exhaustive exhibits with the broadest distribution of overseas buyers and the greatest May - June 2013

The previous hosting of Canton Fair in April 2013 attracted over 24,500 exhibitors and close to 2,02,766 visitors. The 114th Canton Fair in October 2013 will focus on improving valueadded products and competitiveness in international markets. About 48 trading delegations, comprising over 20,000 of China's best foreign trade corporations (enterprises) with good credibility and sound financials, take part in the Fair. These include foreign trade companies, factories, scientific research institutions, foreign invested enterprises, wholly foreign-owned enterprises, private 55

enterprises, etc. Business people from all over the world gather in Guangzhou, exchange business information and develop trade relations. Canton Fair is divided into 3 phases: the first phase focusing on Machinery, Electrical and Electronic products, the second phase focusing on Home and Decoration, while the third phase focusing on textiles, garments and fashion accessories. Orbitz Corporate & Leisure Travels (I) Pvt. Ltd is the Official Travel Company for Canton Fair for 2013 appointed by The China Foreign Trade Centre (CFTC). Hence Orbitz enjoys certain privileges, among others, like easy group registrations and relevant services for its delegates so that all formalities are simplified and expedited with special privileges to VIP delegates in terms of lounge services.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The 114th session of China Import and Export Fair - or popularly known as the Canton Fair - is all set to storm the global stage this autumn. It will be held at the colossal Pazhou complex in Guangzhou, China in three phases of five days each namely: Phase 1: Oct 15-19, 2013 Phase 2: Oct 23-27, 2013 Phase 3: Oct 31- Nov 4, 2013

business turnover in China. The Fair is co-hosted by the Ministry of Commerce of China and People's Government of Guangdong Province, and organized by China Foreign Trade Centre.

NEWS To promote this mega bilateral trade event at press conferences in Mumbai and Delhi, a team of 3 delegates from the China Foreign Trade Centre presented the scope and opportunities at the Canton Fair and how it is an indispensable event for business growth. The Orbitz team also gave a presentation on its travel packages to Canton Fair and its role as a facilitator to participating at Canton Fair. It has thus emerged as India's leading and most preferred travel company for business travel to the Canton Fair. True to its reputation for having led

the largest Indian delegations to Canton Fair, Orbitz Business Tours has a plethora of travel packages for the upcoming Canton Fair too. (These include world class airlines, conveniently located 5 & 4-star hotels for independent travellers and visitor groups, Indian dinners by Indian chef in the comfort of the hotel and all transfers. Depending on the choice of package, there will be a half day city tour of Guangzhou with an enchanting Pearl River Cruise). It therefore makes sound business sense to travel to the Autumn ses-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Colorant Limited Receives Dmai Award Colorant Limited, a leading Reactive Dyes Manufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad received the Award for the outstanding performance in Domestic Market by a SME for the year 2012-13 organised by Dyestuff Manufacturer Association of India held on 22nd June, 2013 at Hotel Sea Princess, Mumbai. Colorant is an ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified Company and one of the leading Manufacturers and Exporters of Dyes in India. Most of the products are "GOTS" Certified and Preregistered with "REACH". The Company also enjoys status of Government recognised "Export House".

Mr. Sanjay Chavda, Sales Manager receiving the award from Chief Guest Dr. Anil Kakodkar, Nuclear Scientist and Ex-Chairman Atomic Energy Commission.

Colorant has become the first Indian Company to offer it's clients in India and overseas a range of Fluorine based Reactive dyes in the

sion of Canton Fair - one of the world's biggest trade fairs - with Orbitz, officially the best in India. For more information contact: Orbitz Corporate & Leisure Travels (I) Pvt. Ltd. 101, Navyug Industrial Estate, T. J. Road, Sewri (W), Mumbai - 400 015. Tel.: 022-2410 2801-03, 6728 2400 Fax : 022-2410 2805 Contact person: Ms. Laju Jariwala E-mail : btmktg@orbit-star.com Website : www.orbit-star.com/go/ canton2013

name of COLRON "CN" series. Colorant recently concluded a MoU with the Color Root of China - the biggest manufacturer of Fluorine based Reactive dyes in the world. Under the agreement, Colorant is having an exclusive marketing rights for these dyes in India enabling the company to offer most modern and environmentally green chemistry to it's customers for the first time in India thereby revolutionizing the dyeing industry due to the energy saving and emission reduction. Colron High Performance Reactive dyes like SD series, GLX series, CN series and SF series are already being used by 650 customers (including Corporate Houses) in India and well accepted in Export market for its quality, cost-effectiveness and timely supply.

A New Milestone of

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Celebrating a journey of 75 Glorious Years (Platinum Jubilee Year) 2013-2014 56

May - June 2013

PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY

A.T.E. now offers complete range of printing solutions from Zimmer A little over a year after Zimmer tied-up with A.T.E. for the marketing and sale of Zimmerdigital printing machines in India, Zimmer Austria has also entrusted A.T.E. with the marketing, sales and after sales service of its entire range of printing machinery including rotary screen printing and flat-bedscreen printing machines. Zimmer, the world leader in printing technology, manufacturers a complete range of machinery for textile and carpet finishing covering digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating, steaming, washing, and drying in its plants situated at Klagenfurt and Kufstein.

(Rotascreen)

Zimmer flat bed machine, Magnoprint, is a well proven flat bed screen printing machine successful world wide. Its magnetic system and roll rod technology in the longitudinal direction enables single or multi-clour printing on different substrates such as flags, home textiles, banners, towels, blankets, and automotive technical textiles.

(triple coat)

With an expanded portfolio in printing solutions, A.T.E. now provides the full range of the latest technologies in processing and caters to the end-to-end needs of all processing customers.

(Magnoprint)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Zimmer rotary screen printing, Rotascreen, is equipped with a magnetic squeegee system and is modularly constructed, thus allowing for a wide spectrum of applications. Rotascreen enables top quality results with single or multi-colour printing on different substrates such as home textiles, fashion fabrics, automotive, and other materials.

Zimmer triple coat is a compact coating machine with precision back roll and is equipped with knife, screen, and slot coating unit for different substrates such as textiles, paper foil, nonwoven, fibre, glass, tissues and other innovative materials.

May - June 2013

PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY

Rieter Com4® Yarns - Yarns of Choice Com4® - the yarn brand from Rieter - has been an established name in the textile industry for more than a decade. To date Com4® stood for high-quality compact yarns spun on Rieter compact spinning machines. Most recently, the brand has been extended to all 4 spinning systems that Rieter offers on the market. Belonging to the family of Com4® yarns (Fig. 1) are Com4®ring, Com4®compact, Com4®rotor and Com4®jet which stand for highquality yarns spun on all 4 Rieter end spinning systems. Com4® is a worldwide registered Rieter trademark. As well as Rieter customers who wish to have their yarns licensed, downstream processors can also have their textile fabrics which are verifiably manufactured from Com4® yarn licensed.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Fig. 1: The 4 Com4® yarn brands

Every spinning technology creates a typical yarn structure. It determines the individual yarn characteristics and therefore the character of the brand. Both the characteristics of the yarn itself and the characteristics in downstream processing or of the subsequent textile product, are determined by the yarn structure. As the structure forms the basis of all characteristics, the yarn structure images have also been selected as the central illustration for the yarn brand Com4®.

Your advantage in using the Com4® trademark Your advantage in using the Com4® trademark is, briefly stated, the securing of your sustainable success (Fig. 2). To distance yourself from competitors means being different or better, being able to offer your customers more than the others can. By selling and trading Com4® yarns, you are showing that you offer high-quality yarns. You profit directly from the Com4® campaign launched by Rieter. Knitters and weavers know the benefits of Com4® yarn and trust in the quality of the delivered yarn.

The 4 end spinning systems can produce additional yarn variants by adaptation of special facilities. For instance, core yarns can be produced in Com4®ring-core and Com4®compact-core versions. Fancy yarns are possible in the Com4®ring-vario, Com4®compactvario and Com4®rotor-vario versions. Twin facilities - for manufacture of spin plied yarns - are made possible by Com4®ring-twin und Com4®compact-twin. A special yarn is Com4®compact-light with reduced compacting of the yarn. As you can see, variety and creativity are practically unlimited. The path to your licensing You, as spinning unit or fabric manufacturer, can contact Rieter any time and apply for the Com4® license (Fig. 4).

Fig. 2: Your path to success with Com4®

Diversity results in flexibility and creativity Creativity has no limits in the textile industry. In order to produce innovative textile surfaces, varied yarns are needed. To bring special designs or functions into the fabric, textile designers require a vast selection of yarn types. In addition to the yarn structure variants such as the yarn fineness, volume and the fiber material in use, options are necessary to provide designers with a large yarn variety (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Extended Com4® yarn range to make creativity possible for designers 58

Fig. 4: The path to Com4® licensing

Rieter experts from the sectors sales, product management, service and textile technology validate the applications. Spinning companies, who have their spinning process completely under control, maintain their machine park well and have high quality expectations that they also implement, have the best chance to obtain a license. Examined is whether the applicant manufactures yarns on the specified machine generations. Com4®ring must be produced on the ring spinning generations G 32, G 33 and G 35. Com4®compact on the compact spinning generaMay - June 2013

PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY Rieter marketing concept becomes effective.

Following a positive decision, a license contract is concluded. The new licensee can directly profit from the yarn marketing. The Com4® family is steadily growing (Fig.5). Almost 100 spinning companies have applied for the new branding. Over 3 000 yarn qualities have already been traded as Com4® yarns.

Fig. 6: Com4® pull-and-push effect in the yarn market

The Com4® yarn concept for your success Which marketing activities support the marketing concept? Through good structuring and clear target group segmentation, efficient publication is rapidly and securely achieved.

Fig. 5: The Com4® world

United to success How will you now profit from the Com4® campaign? The marketing concept is based on the classical pull-and-push effect (Fig. 6). This means, a licensee offers (push) the market Com4® yarns through their sales promotions. Simultaneously, the downstream processors - the knitter and the weaver - ask for Com4® yarns (pull). This effect only happens when all those involved know and value the benefits of Com4® yarns. Here the

Fig. 7: Com4® marketing vehicles and actions

As is shown in Fig. 7, Rieter has actively implemented a variety of actions since 2012. A strong and informative Com4® Internet presence not only helps the already licensed customers to introduce themselves but also provides interested companies with information

on Com4®. A Com4® brochure and presentation supports communication. We wish to give prominence to the license and reference brochures. In the practical book, all licensed customers with their products are listed. The book is regularly updated, can be downloaded from the Com4® website and is actively distributed at trade fairs, symposia or other events. Downstream yarn processors and yarn trader repeatedly confirm to us that the book forms part of their everyday range of tools. Furthermore, Rieter is permanently active in preparing the latest technological findings for Com4® yarns and publishing them. In the trade press, an advertising concept supports promotion of the yarn brand. The consistent use of the key visuals - the yarn structures - is a further important component of publication and ensures a recognition effect. Seminars with yarn traders, yarn sellers and downstream processors such as knitters and weavers are a must for the campaign. Rieter also actively participates at trade fairs at which licensees have the opportunity to present their own products. Licensed Com4® spinning plants and downstream processors are supplied with a starter kit with salessupporting resources. Their success is also our success. Iris Biermann

Attention All Members of THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our website taicht@gmail.com, taicnt@mtnl.net.in May - June 2013

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

tions K 44 and K 45. Com4®rotor yarn on the rotor spinning machines R 40 and R 60. Com4®jet yarn is produced on the air-jet spinning machines J 10 and J 20.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Mumbai Unit organises India Tex 2013 - Textile Exhibition - Fibre to Fashion Date : 18, 19, & 20th October, 2013 Venue : VIA Ground, Vapi Industries Association, Plot No. 135, GIDC, Vapi - 369 195 (Gujarat). Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convener - +919167515676 Mr. Anil G. Mahajan, Exhibition Coordinator +91-9324904271 The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 3rd Floor, 86 College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguese Church / Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel. : +91-22-24328044, 24307702, Fax : +91-22-24307708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com

The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI) presents International Textile Expo 2013 - 5F Textile Expo Date : 06th-08th September, 2013 Venue : Surat International Exhibition and Convention Center (SIECC), Surat, Gujarat India Contact : Mr. Paresh Patel, The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry Sumruddhi, Makkai Bridge, Nanpura, Surat - 395 001, Gujarat, India Tel. : +91 261-3090122, Fax: +91 261-2472340 M. : +91-97123821937 E-mail : marketing@sgcci.in, Website : http://www.sgcci.in Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster (OGTC) 9TH International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles - ICAHT - 2013 Theme - "CREATIVE THINKING" Date : 20th & 21st September, 2013 Venue : India Habitat Centre, New Delhi Contact : Mr. R.C. Kesar, Conference Chairman Mr. M.K. Mehra, Conference Advisor Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster, D-104, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi - 110 020 India Tel. : (91)11- 41609550, Fax (91)11- 26816520 E-mail : ogtc@airtelmail.in, ogtc@ogtc.in, ogtc@rediffmail.com Website : www.ogtc.in

3rd National Symposium on Functional Applications (NSFAC 2013) Date : 24th & 25th October, 2013 Venue : Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai Contact : Prof. Dr. N. Sekar Convener (NSFAC 2013) Head, Department of Dyestuff Technology Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), N.P. Marg, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019 MS Tel. : +91-22-33612707, Mob.: +91-9867958452 E-mail : nsfac2013@gmail.com Website : www.nsfac.com

International Conference on Advances in Fibers Finishes, Technical Textiles and Nonwovens (AFFTTN) Date : 1st & 2nd October, 2013 Venue : Mumbai For more information, please contact: AATCC - India Conference, 1069, 3rd Main, 4th Cross, AECS Layout, D-Block, Kundalahalli, Bangalore - 560 037 KA, India Tel. : +91-9742578711, 9449835605 E-mail : aatcc.india@gmail.com, info@tecnitex.in Website : www.aatcc.org, www.tecnitex.in

Texfair 2013 - Largest Expo of Textile Machinery, Accessories & Spares Date : 13th to 16th December, 2013 Venue : CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore Contact : The Southern India Mills' Association 41, Race Course, Coimabtore - 641 018 Tel. : +91-0422 4225333, Fax: +91-422 422536 E-mail : texfair@simamills.org The Textile Association (India) - South Gujarat Chapter hosting 11th International & 69th All India Textile Confer ence Theme : "Indian Textiles: Global prospects and Perceptions" Date : 20th & 21st December, 2013 Venue : The Gateway (TAJ) Hotel, Surat, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. Viren Jariwala, Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India) - South Gujarat Chapter Kanjibhai Desai Hall, Samaj Shikshan Bhavan, Opp. Museum Chowk, Surat - 395 003, Gujarat, India M. : 09099025253 E-mail : viren1001@yahoo.com;

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Igmatex Exhibition Leather, Apparel, Hosiery Machinery and Accessories Exhibition Date : 18th - 20th October, 2013 Venue : Brijendra Swaroop Park, Kanpur (UP), India Contact : Ms Neha Aggarwal, Business Expo Promotor Shelter Complex, Shop No. 11, Plot No. 12-B, -504, Goodwill Gardens, Sector-8, Kharghar, Navi Mumbai - 410 210 M. : 9594276081, 9324077881 E-mail : info@igmatexfair.com, Website : www.igmatexfair.com

ABROAD

The Textile Association (India) - M.P. Unit organizing National Textile Summit 2013 - "Intro-inspection on TextileBusiness [Fiber To Garment]" Date : 30th & 31st, August 2013 Venue : S.V.I.T.S., Indore, M.P. Contact : Mr. N.S.Nirban (Mob. 9826151119) Prof. Ajay Joshi(Mob. 9826078355) Mr. Ashok Veda (Mob. 9826047355) Prof. Hiren Jaiswal (Mob. 8827304778) E-mail : taimpunit@gmail.com

12th Asia Textile Conference - ATC 12 Theme : "New Prospects on Textiles" Date : 24th to 26th October, 2013 Sponsor : China Textile Engineering Society Venue: The Gateway (TAJ) Hotel, Surat, Gujarat, India Contact : China Textile Engineering Society 6F., Main Building, No.3, Yanjingli Middle Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100025, China Tel : +86-010-65917740 E-mail : atc12china@vip.126.com Website : www.atc12.org

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. 60

May - June 2013