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SPINNING

PEER REVIEWED

Influence of Rotor Machine Process Parameters on Rotor Yarn Quality 1

Prof. R. N. Narkhedkar1* & A. B. Bagawan2 D.K.T.E'S Textile and Engineering Institute, 2NMIMS, CTF

Abstract The textile industry is today more competitive and much cost conscious industry. At every stage of processing ,the objectives is to reduce the cost and machine manufacturers are concentrated to produce more sophisticated and less expensive machine with higher production rates, and cotton processors in order to remain viable. Rotor technology is very upcoming unconventional and economical method for yarn manufacturing because of its very high productivity, automation and elimination of roving and winding process. Conventionally it was used for coarser yarns or for the waste spinning but now a day's textile technologists are trying to use this method of yarn manufacturing for high quality yarns. Generally in the rotor spinning rotor is the main element which affects the yarn quality produced on it so that, in this study we have tried to analyze the effect of rotor configuration by taking different rotor diameter, naval size and rotor finish. In rotor spinning rotor decides the fibre accumulation, fibre bundling and fibre twisting during the formation of yarn. Keywords Hairiness, Navel, Rotor diameter, Rotor finish, RKM, Unevenness

Figure 1.1: Rotor spinning and rotor yarn *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. R. N. Narkhedkar, D.K.T.E'S Textile and Engineering Institute, Rajwada, Ichalkaranji, Dist.: Kolhapur Email : rammesh.nn@gmail.com May - June 2015

According to Manohar J. S. [2] and Balsubramannian P. et al. [1], in this type of yarn manufacturing, sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening roller. The fibres are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed. The fibres are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the centre of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages. The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation 2. Material and Methods Medium grade cotton was used in the study. The experiment was planned on to 23 factorial design techniques; factors analyzed were rotor diameter, rotor navel, and rotor finish. The factorial design involved 12 experimental combinations analyzed by tyagguchi technique. A factorial experimental design method was used in order to determine the most relevant parameters as well as the crossing or interactions effects to be considered in rotor spinning technology. This approach was applied in order to establish a statistical method to analyze the properties of cotton yarn with different rotor configurations. The specification of the cotton which was used in the study is as follows: Table 2.1 and rotor machine parameters are as shown in Table 2.2. 5

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1. Introduction Rotor spinning has established itself as a commercially viable technology with much higher productivity than ring spinning for coarse and medium counts. Barella A. [4] and Manich M. et al. [7] studied that, to get the optimum benefits from this technology, the machine parts and process parameters have to be properly chosen taking into account the raw material. Since the commercial beginning of rotor spinning, Istiaque S. M. et al. [3] have studied factors that affect rotor spinning of fine yarns. According to Grosberge P. et al. [5] and Istiaque [6], the break-even point, i.e., the economical count beyond which rotor spinning becomes more expensive than conventional ring spinning, is becoming ever finer, and is now approaching 30s Ne. The main factors affects are raw material, preparation, sliver weight, count, and twist.

SPINNING Table 2.1: Specification of raw material

Particulars

Specifications

Variety of cotton

J34

Effective Length

27mm

Micronaire

3.8

Trash

4.40%

Strength

18.3 gm/tex

3.1 For R-4 Navel

Figure 3.1: Rotor Diameter and yarn quality for R-4

Table 2.2: Rotor M/C Specification

Particulars

Speeds

Rotor speed

50,000

Twist factors

5.18

Count

14's

draft

116.58

Sliver hank

0.119

Opening roller diameter

60 mm

Figure 3.2: Rotor Diameter and yarn quality for R-4 3.2 For R-10 Navel

3. Results and discussions In the Present investigation rotor diameter used were 48mm and 54mm with R4, R10 navel size and nickel, anodized, ceramic finish. Following different combination were obtained and with using each combination of rotor diameter, rotor navel and rotor finish 14's count was produced. Different samples are prepared and these yarn samples have been tested for different yarn parameters which are as given in the following Table 3.1.

Figure 3.3: Rotor Diameter and yarn quality for R-10

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Table 3.1: Yarn quality parameters w.r.t. different yarn samples Configuration of rotors

RKM

Hairiness Elongation %

R4/48/nickel

12.68

12.36

6.58

6.31

R4/54/nickel

11.43

9.25

7.01

5.16

R10/48/nickel

12.08

13.45

6.96

6.55

R10/54/nickel

11.6

13.39

7.33

6.18

R4/48/anodized

12.43

12.49

7.53

6.39

R4/54/anodized

11.94

8.01

8.24

5.72

R10/48/anodized

12.17

12.18

8.24

6.45

R10/54/anodized

11.16

12.17

6.68

5.52

R4/48/ceramic

12.22

11.55

6.28

7.26

R4/54/ceramic

11.33

8.64

7.05

5.18

R10/48/Ceramic

12.46

11.88

6.62

6.34

R10/54/ceramic

11.63

11.71

8.28

5.68

Figure 3.4: Rotor Diameter and yarn quality for R-10

Present investigation of Figures 3.1-3.4 reveal that, for R4 navel as rotor diameter increases from 48mm to 54mm the U% is improved because of increase in number of back doublings for the larger rotors which produces more even yarn. The RKM value drops down for the larger rotors this is due to the fact that, as the rotor diameter increases the centrifugal force acting on the fibres also increases which is responsible in deterioration in yarn strength. The centrifugal force is increases in proportional to square of rotor diameter. It is also found that for larger rotors, the increase in May - June 2015

SPINNING centrifugal force leads to the increase in yarn false twist which reflects in reduction in yarn elongation. The same trend is observed for the navel size of R10.

Figure 3.7: Effect of Machines factors on yarn U%

Figure 3.5: Effect of rotor finish on yarn quality for 48mm

Figure 3.8: Effect of Machines factors on yarn RKM

Figure 3.9: Effect of Machines factors on yarn Hairiness

Figure 3.6: Effect of rotor finish on yarn quality for 54mm

May - June 2015

Figure 3.10: Effect of Machines factors on yarn Elongation

From the above Figures 3.7-3.10 some of the rotor configurations have been found out w. r. t the above mentioned four properties of yarn and those rotor configurations are as given in the following Table 3.2. Table 3.2: Best rotor configurations w. r. t. yarn properties

Best rotor configuration R10/54/anodized R10/48/nickel R4/48/ceramic R4/48/ceramic

For particular Property U% RKM Hairiness Elongation

Value 11.16 13.45 6.28 7.26 7

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

It is also confirmed that for 48mm rotor diameter, as navel size is increased from R4 to R10 the yarn elongation% and U% is improved because of getting sufficient area for yarn formation in case of R10 navel. In case of R10 navel the RKM value is found to be increased this is due to the increase in rolling friction between shell of the navel and the yarn, reflecting to the increase in yarn real twist. It is due to the fact that, as the navel size increases the dynamic contact condition between yarn and navel that influence twist insertion which is responsible in improving the yarn strength. It is also found that for larger navel size, the metal to material contact area increases which leads to the increase in yarn hairiness. The same trend is observed for the navel size of 54mm rotor diameter.

SPINNING As given in the above Table 3.2 three different combinations have been obtained giving good quality yarn, but by the statistical analysis it is found that the 'P' value for the all properties of each of the above three selected combinations is 0.2649 it is greater than 0.05 which reflects that there is no significant difference between them. So far it is proved that these rotor combinations i.e. R10/54/Anodized, R10/48/Nickel and R4/48/Ceramic are the best rotor configurations producing the good quality of yarn.

Statistical analysis it is proved that there is no significant effect of above mentioned three finishes on the yarn quality parameters. It is proved that the three rotor combinations i.e. R10/ 54/Anodized, R10/48/Nickel and R4/48/Ceramic are the best rotor configurations producing the good quality of yarn. References 1)

4. Conclusions As the rotor diameter increases the U% is improved and the RKM value drops down this is due to the fact that, as the rotor diameter increases the centrifugal force acting on the fibres also increases which is responsible in deterioration in yarn strength. It is also found that for larger rotors, there is reduction in yarn elongation. It is also confirmed that as navel size is increased the yarn elongation% and U% is improved because of getting sufficient area for yarn formation. For larger navel the RKM value is found to be increased due to the increase in metal to material rolling friction as well as there is increase in yarn hairiness.

2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7)

Salhotra K.R. and Balsubramanian P., Journal of Textile Institute, 2, 128(1980). Manohar J. S. and Balsubramanian N. Textile Research Journal, 53, 497, (1983). Istiaque S. M. and Bhortakke, Asian textile journal, (7), 52, (1995). Barella A. and Vego J. P., Textile Research Journal, (1), 73, (1976). Grosberge P. and Mansoor S. A., Journal of Textile Institute, (2), 389, (1975). Istiaque and Sharma N., Textile Asia, 81, (11), 46, (1990). Barella A., Manich M. and Patrica, Journal of Textile Institute, 6, 329, (1983). ❑ ❑ ❑

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Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 8

May - June 2015

MEDICAL TEXTILE

PEER REVIEWED

Studies in General Acceptance and Efficacy of Baby Diapers M. D. Teli*, A. Mallick & V. Warge Dept. of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology. Abstract A survey has been carried out to find the facts and views of the consumers about baby diapers. A set of tests were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the commercially available products. In order to get a comparison, a laboratory prepared biodegradable superabsorbent polymer (SAP) has been utilised by replacing the existing commercial SAP. Both survey and test results have brought out some interesting facts. Keywords Market Survey, Baby Diaper, Comfort, Absorption 1. Introduction Human civilization passed through a long period of time and during this phase, human race have acquired knowledge about healthcare and hygiene and also its importance in everyday life. In modern civilization, healthcare is a serious business which is not only influenced by practicing medical professionals but also by the manufacturers of diverse medical products. In today's health conscious society, textile products are finding innovative applications which were not imaginable just a few years ago [1]. Textile materials in the medical textile field gradually have taken on more important roles. The wide range of textile products used in the medical industry are classified into four major segments namely non-implantable materials, implantable materials, extracorporeal devices and healthcare and hygiene products[2].

2. Market analysis Increasing birth rate, rapid urbanization and continuously improving economic conditions in developing countries have fuelled the growth of baby diaper industry. The global baby diaper market is estimated to reach $59.4 billion by the year 2020. Based on geographic regions, the market is segmented into North America, Europe, Asia-Pacific and other economically fast growing countries. Baby diaper market in the Asia Pacific region is expected to grow speedily at a CAGR of 8.3% as compared to the other regions, namely North America and Europe [4]. There are many companies which produce baby diaper and sell in various trade names. Some of those leading brands are as follows.

*All the correspondence must be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli, Dept. of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India Email : mdt9pub@gmail.com May - June 2015

Name

Manufacturer

Market value

Huggies

Kimberly-Clark Corporation, USA and Hindustan Lever Ltd, India

Rs. 1200 crore

Pamper

Procter and Gamble

Rs. 1200 crore

Mamy Poko

Unicharm

Rs. 110 crore

Snuggy Dry

Godrej

Rs. 100 crore

Wipro Baby Soft

Wipro

Rs. 630 crore

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.1: The popular brands in Indian market

Baby diapers come under category of healthcare and hygiene products. In the past, old cotton garments were torn and stitched into triangular washable cotton napkins. Many traditional families still use these today but those leak and aren't comfortable for the baby. As time passed, with modernization and out of convenience in fast paced lives, many families have turned to disposable diapers [3].

MEDICAL TEXTILE 3. Important properties required for baby diaper Baby skin is very soft and not as much immune to the surrounding environment as the grownups. Therefore baby diapers are required to have some specific properties along with its adequate absorption. ◆ ◆ ◆

◆ ◆

Diapers should be soft. It should have high absorbency while creating little or no irritation to babies. Diaper should absorb 30 - 60 gm urine without feeling wet. The desired rate of absorption should be fast i.e. within 5 to 7 sec. It should provide protection against leakage and it should not rewet. It should be comfortable and should have good fit and it should be environmentally friendly disposable [2].

4. Disposable diaper constituent

Figure 4.1: Schematic diagram of engineered diaper

In order to fulfil the above mentioned criteria, a diaper is designed very scientifically keeping an eye on baby's comfort. A baby diaper generally contains the following components. ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

Polyethylene film - This is used as back sheet, and it helps to stop the liquids from leaking out of the diaper. Polypropylene Non-Woven - It is used as a top sheet for the leg cuffs; it allows water to pass through without getting itself wet. It is the main top sheet, the top surface that is in contact with the baby's skin allowing the liquids to flow into the diaper core. Absorbent core - Wood pulp fluff which gives the sponginess and a fair amount of absorption of urine. Super absorbent polymer - Synthetic acrylate based highly absorbent polymers to absorb and retain large amount of liquid within their structure.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Elastics - Lycra/Spandex based for fitting purpose. Quick wicking layer Adhesive - Hot melts and Elastomeric Fastening tape - Stick type/Hook and loop type Moisturizer lotions and fragrance lotions Breathable/Cloth-like back sheet

Among all parts, first four are very essential layers in a diaper. Most disposable diapers are made with these basic components [5]. 5. Results and Discussion Market survey was carried out to know different aspects on use of baby diaper; i.e. cost of different brands, general acceptance, awareness of biodegradability, etc. A questionnaire was prepared and was distributed among the customers and their views were collected. Survey was carried out by both online questionnaire form as well as offline by meeting people in various stages of society. The survey is done in play groups viz. Jack and Jill, Blue Bell and Child health clinic of Dr. Prakash Vaidya, M.D. (Ped). D.C.H., Child Specialist as well as in residential area of Mulund, Mumbai. According to view of distributers of baby diapers, Mamy Poko pants, Huggies and Pampers are more consumed over other brands. The survey carried out among 100 families and the results obtained from it are summarized in the following section in accordance with the questions asked. 5.1 Acceptance of baby diapers Increased awareness about health and hygiene has raised use of baby diaper. According to the survey, 95 % families are aware and prefer using diaper for their babies [Figure 4.1]. However, the rest 5 % families do not prefer it mainly because of their babies' sensitive skin issues.

Figure 5.1: Acceptance of baby diapers 10

May - June 2015

MEDICAL TEXTILE 5.2 Preference of particular brand From the survey of the consumers, it was clear that Pamper, Huggies and Mamy Poko are popular brands in Indian Market [Table 5.1]. This result comes in line with the comments by the distributors mentioned above. Pampers is the most used brand among these. In Table 3, different reasons of choosing a particular brand are summarized. It is seen that comfort properties are given the highest priorities. This is quite reasonable as the user, i.e. the babies wear it for a longer time and through this time, and the material should be comfortable as a whole. It should neither wetback, nor leak out or become anything unpleasant to wear. One interesting fact came out from the survey is that the most of the Huggies users buy it because of the brand value. For the other two brands, comfort and softness play the vital role for buying those.

Table 5.3: Number of votes for preference of Packet Size

Package size

Big

Medium

Small

No of votes

5.4 Duration of diaper utilization Table 5.4: Number of votes for duration of use of baby diaper Duration of use of baby diaper

Only at night

Rarely uses and in travelling

Whole day

No of votes

Table 5.1: Number of votes for popular brands in market

Brand Pampers Name

Huggies

Mamy Poko Other

No. of 51 users

Table 5.2: Number of votes for reasons to use a particular brand

Brands

Pampers

Huggies

Mamy Poko

Comfortable

Listening to others

Softness

Brand name

5.3 The cost factor Cost per unit price of the brands is always in the same price range and with the change in the size the price also changes. However, this also varies in same proportion within the brands for sizes. The cost does play an important role, not within the brands, but with the change in package size. From Table 5.3, it is clear that most of the consumers prefer to buy larger packages over the medium and small packages. There are two main reasons according to the survey. First of all, most of the big packages are available with a little less price per unit. Therefore it becomes little more economical. The second reason is the parents want to stock baby diapers for their convenience. May - June 2015

Time period Pampers in hour

Huggies

Mamy Poko

2.0 - 3.0

4.0 - 5.0

5.0 - 6.0

7.0 - 8.0

According to Tables 5.4 and 5.5, parents are concerned mainly about baby's skin and comfort properties. As diaper is mainly for babies comfort while sleeping, parents prefer brand which gives more comfort property and less leakage problem. As the age of baby rises upto 3 years, the use of diaper decreases. The number of pieces required per day depends on parents' concern about changing diaper of baby. For new born to 4 months baby, skin of baby is delicate so some parents prefer changing diaper after 1 or 2 hrs. These babies require more diapers in a day. When this is compared with more than one year old babies, parents mostly prefer using diaper for baby only at night and while travelling. This reduces the use hours in a day and therefore number of diapers required for them are less.

Texttreasure Courage is what it takes to stand up and speak; courage is also what it takes to sit down and listen. - Sir Winston Churchill

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Table 5.5: Resisting power of different brand

MEDICAL TEXTILE 5.7 The biodegradability issue

5.5Problems faced while using diaper Table 5.6: Number of votes for problems due to use of diaper

Problems

Pampers Huggies Mamy Poko

No problem

Rashes

Wet skin

Urine infection

As it is shown in Table 5.6, very few babies face any problems due to use of baby diaper. Some babies have sensitive skin and because of that they have problems such as skin rashes. Problems depend on diaper changing time also, i.e. if wet diaper is not changed after particular time the baby may have problem of wet skin. Some babies showed problem of urine infection. Otherwise almost half of the mothers remarked that their babies didn't feel any type of problems while wearing diapers. 5.6 Suggestions for betterment Table 5.7: Suggestions given by parents

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Desired changes Pampers Huggies Mamy Poko in diaper No change is desired

Softness

Resist more time

Less leakage problem

In survey, consumers were asked to give some suggestions for any kind of betterment of baby diaper. Parents gave some suggestions as shown in Table 5.7. Softness, more resisting power and less leakage problem are some general suggestions and apart from that parent suggested that diaper should give some indication once it becomes full like colour change. One suggestion was that that on the upper part oily or creamy substance should be incorporated so that the baby may feel better softness and skin would not be affected.

Table 5.8: Awareness about biodegradability of baby diaper

Remarks

Yes

No idea

No of votes

Table 5.9: Acceptance of new biodegradable brands

Remarks

Yes

No of votes

One of the main aims of the project was to know awareness of biodegradability issue of baby diapers. Baby diapers are not recyclable product. These are put to use only once and then is dumped. Therefore, these wastes become an environment load in a course of time because these are not biodegradable. As mentioned above, these contain synthetic polymers like polypropylene and polyacrylate SAPs, which are not biodegradable. While carrying out survey, parents' views were taken regarding awareness of biodegradability and acceptance of new biodegradable brand as shown in Tables 5.8 and 5.9. It is seen in the survey that there is still a need of awareness among some of the consumers. When the consumers were asked whether they would buy a biodegradable diaper at a little higher cost, most of the answers were positive. This shows the need of baby diaper which is biodegradable and eco-friendly. Laboratory Analysis In our laboratory, we have tested these commercially available popular products in terms of their wettability, total absorption capacity, retention capacity, wetback and we have also checked its efficiency while replacing the synthetic SAPs with our laboratory produced biodegradable superabsorbent. 5.8 Diaper preparation Cotton lint and Superabsorbent material from one diaper was removed and superabsorbent from our laboratory of the same weight as the synthetic SAP, was put into the cover with same cotton lint. The sample was tested and compared with the market available brands. 5.9 Artificial urine preparation Following chemicals (Table 5.10) were taken in 1 L distilled water. Those were then mixed properly and the pH of the solution was adjusted to 6 by 1N HCl solution [6]. May - June 2015

MEDICAL TEXTILE

Chemicals required

Concentration (gpl)

Lactic acid (C3H6O3)

0.09

Citric acid (C6H8O7)

0.38

Sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)

2.1

Urea [CO(NH2)2]

10.21

Calcium chloride(CaCl2)

0.28

Sodium chloride (NaCl)

5.3

Magnesium sulphate(MgSO4)

0.24

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4)

0.95

Dipotassium hydrogen phosphate ( K2HPO4)

1.22

Ammonium Chloride (NH4Cl)

1.34

5.10 Tests for baby diaper ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Physical properties Absorption capacity Absorption retention capacity Wet back Superabsorbent absorption capacity

All the samples were conditioned for 24 hours before test. 5.10.1 Physical properties and handle Weights of baby diaper (in gm) to be tested were taken on weighing balance. Size of diaper (cm x cm) and average thickness (mm) was measured using ruler. According to the survey, softness and handle properties of Huggies were lesser than other two brands. 5.10.2 Absorption Capacity This method determines the total absorptive capacity of the diaper. This was assessed by immersing the product into a known test solution for a standard time and measuring the difference in weight. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Few litres of artificial urine solution were prepared. Large container was taken in which diaper was immersed. Weight of dry diaper (W1) was taken on weighing balance and the data was recorded. Artificial urine solution was kept into the container and the diaper was placed flat upside down at the bottom of the container, using a chronometer or stop watch was set for exactly ten minutes.

May - June 2015

◆

◆ ◆ ◆

Additional pressure was not applied to the diaper as it was soaking the solution. When ten minutes have elapsed, diaper was removed, holding it from the corners, and was allowed to drip for two minutes. The diaper was kept hanging vertically using hands so that it dripped vertically. After two minutes, the wet weight (W2) was measured on the weighing balance. The absorption capacity was calculated by (W2 W1)/W1 X 100% [7].

5.10.3 Centrifuge retention capacity ◆ After testing the absorption capacity the same sample which was soaked in solution for 10 min, was placed in Hydro extractor machine (Centrifuge machine). ◆ Machine was run for 1 min. ◆ Weight of the sample after centrifugation (W3) was taken. Absorption retention capacity was calculated by (W3 -W1)/W1 X 100% [7]. 5.10.4 Wetback test This method determined the rewet under load and acquisition time under load for disposable baby diapers. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

◆ ◆

Circular cutting of 80 mm diameter was cut from diapers to be tested. Circular disc of filter paper (110 mm diameter) was cut. Weight (W1) was taken. 25 ml artificial urine solution was poured on the diaper cutting. After immediate absorption, circular disc of filer paper (110 mm) diameter was put on diaper. 1 kg mass in rectangular shape was put over it for 1 min. The mass was removed and weight of wet filter paper (W2) was taken. Wetback was calculated by (W2-W1) [8].

5.10.5 Superabsorbent Absorption Capacity This was assessed by immersing the product into a known test solution for a standard time and measuring the difference in weight. ◆

◆

Nylon cloth (Mesh size 60) was cut into 6 x 12 cm strip and sewn two of the three open sides so the inside edges of the seals were about 3 - 4 mm from the edge of the bag. Accurately weight 0.500 g (W1) of SAP was taken and placed into the nylon bag and the bag was sealed. Three nylon bags containing SAP were prepared 13

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 5.10: Chemicals required for artificial urine preparation

MEDICAL TEXTILE

◆ ◆

◆

and one blank (empty nylon bag) was prepared for each sample of SAP. A container was filled with artificial urine to 1.5 inches in depth. Nylon bag containing the SAP was hold horizontally and SAP was distributed throughout the nylon bag. Nylon bag was laid on the surface of the artificial urine solution. Nylon bag was allowed to wet out for one minute before submerging After a soaking period of 60 minutes bag was removed, it was hung and allowed to drip for 15 minutes After 15 minutes drip time, the blanks (W2) were weighed and each bag containing SAP (W3) and weight were recorded. The test was performed in artificial urine as well as in plain water [8].

Total Absorbency (g/g) = [Wet Wt. (W3)-B Wt. (W2)] - [Net Dry Wt. (W1)] [Net Dry Wt. (W1)]

Table 5.11: Diaper Test Results

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Test

Unit Huggies

Baby Diaper Sample Pampers Mamy Poko

21.49

20.69

21.57

Laboratory Sample

Weight of diaper

Size of diaper

cmxcm 8 x 30

13 x 38

12 x 37

12 x37

Average thickness

5.5

Absorption capacity

(in %)

93.82

92.97

91.79

93.07

Centrifuge retention capacity

(in %)

39.16

60.10

51.30

45.11

Wetback test

0.6

0.9

0.92

0.37

Table 5.12: Superabsorbent capacity UNIT

Huggies

Pampers

Laboratory Sample

Absorbency in water

g/g

112.52

102.49

238.43

Absorbency in urine

g/g

11.74

12.69

38.45

Superabsorbent were removed from pampers and Huggies and were tested (Table 5.12). In Mamy Poko there was no separable superabsorbent. The absorption of the SAPs was tested in both water and artificial urine solution. Laboratory prepared SAP showed very high absorption as compared to the other two. 6. Conclusion In this work, an attempt was made to carry out market survey on utilization of baby diapers of available commercial brands and laboratory tests were also carried out to find the efficiency of those. A laboratory prepared biodegradable SAP was also used for comparison of the both. Some interesting facts came out from this survey. Consumers give more priority to comfort properties than all other qualities. That may be the probable cause of less use of Huggies over Pampers and Mamy Poko. Many of the families said that they are willing to buy a biodegradable product which shows both product and environment consciousness of the consumers. References 1.

When the results of above mentioned tests are compared (Table 5.11), it is found that absorption capacity of all the products are close to each other. This indicates that the first criteria of using baby diaper, i.e. the absorption was fulfilled efficiently by all the products. However, the next test, e.g. the centrifuge retention test was carried out to find the holding capacity of the products when used for longer time under pressure and movement. From the results of the test, Pampers has shown the best results whereas laboratory prepared sample and Huggies showed comparatively inferior results. Wetback test was performed to understand how the diaper immediately absorbs the liquid under certain load and does not rewet the baby skin. In this test, laboratory prepared sample showed the best by giving 14

the least rewetting. Huggies also showed good results in this test.

3. 4. 5.

7. 8.

Chinta S.K, and Veena K. V, International Journal of Latest Trends in Engineering & Technology, 2, 142145 (2013) Sureshram T, Specifications/Properties Required for the Meditech Products and Their Testing, Textinfo News Textile Testing, 2, (2014) Anand S., Medical Textiles & Biomaterials For Healthcare, Woodland Publication, 77, (2006) Shende S, Allied market research, 2014 Nagaswarana R, Overview of disposable diaper disposable parts & their purpose,www.technicaltextile.net, (2014) Nie Z, Nijhuis C , Gong J, Chen X, Kumachev A, Martinez A, Narovlyansky M, Whitesides G, The Royal Society of Chemistry, (2009) www.disposablediaper.net Sasikumar G, Senthil M, Visagavel K, AbdulZubar H, Dheenathayalan T, International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology, 3, 186 - 191,(2014)

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SMART TEXTILE

PEER REVIEWED

An Overview on the Growth and Prospectus of Intelligent Textiles and Clothing Mamatha G. Hegde* Dept. of Fashion Design, M. S. Ramaiah University of Applied Sciences Abstract Fusion of heritage with advanced digital technology is the motto for the future researchers in the field of art, design and technology. The basic materials needed to construct e-textiles, conductive threads and fabrics have been around for over 1000 years. Performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the international textile and clothing industry and market growth is being fuelled by the emergence of new fibres, new fabrics and innovative process and technologies. Smart textiles can be broken into two different categories: Aesthetic and Performance Enhancing. In fashion the applications are more focused on visual or tactile feedback from the wearer. Smart textile represents the next generation of textiles and today it is dominating research and commercial activities. Next generation of textiles will have the ability to monitor their environment and interact accordingly in order to accomplish a pre-programmed functionality. There is a need for a novel technology with electronically active and sensor fibres, which will be the basic building blocks of the next generation of smart fibrous materials. Smart clothing can be used in high risk work sector as wounded soldiers at the war front, fire fighter who is hurt at work and police officer in danger. Intelligent textiles have high potential impact in surgical, patient clothing, drug delivery and the environment for both hospital and home care. Keywords Aesthetic and performance, Electronic active sensor fibres, Medical field, Smart clothing

Gone are the days saying "Clothing is only for covering, protection and convey sense of style". In art and design processes artists, designers, scientists and engineers needs to work together for an innovative and fruitful result. The changes in consumer lifestyles, needs, demands and expectations of a healthier and more comfortable living are leading to a development of innovative smart product development. This made textile manufacturers of developed countries to think of producing sustainable smart products to meet the competitive global market [1]. Textiles of today are materials with applications in almost all our activities, the integration of multifunctional values in such a common material have become a special area of interest in recent years. Today textiles can be treated so that they protect one *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Mamatha G. Hegde Asst. Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design Faculty of Art and Design, M. S. Ramaiah University of Applied Sciences, Bangalore - 560 054 Email : mamathahegde.fd.ad@msruas.ac.in/ hegde2004mamatha@gmail.com May - June 2015

from all kinds of adverse conditions yet at the same time are comfortable. Textile materials and techniques have become an important plat form for high-tech innovations. The introduction of smart materials and computing technology in textile structures offers an opportunity to develop textiles with a new type of behaviour and functionality. Besides behaviour like sense, react on and conducting electricity, the textile will be able to perform computational operations. In particular, artisans have been wrapping fine metal foils, most often gold and silver, around fabric threads for centuries [2]. Smart textiles were introduced in early 1990s, strongly influenced by military research and wearable technology. Smart textiles sense and react automatically without a controlling unit, and in a more complex form, smart textiles sense, react and activate a specific function through a processing unit. Smart technology of today incorporated a variety of intelligent materials in clothing. Smart textiles are fabrics that have been developed with new technologies that provide added value to the wearer and have the ability to do many things that traditional fabrics cannot, including communicate, transform, conduct energy and even grow fibres, yarns, fabric and other structures with added 15

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction

SMART TEXTILE value functionality have been developed for a range of applications [3]. Intelligent textile products are used and consumed much more for their performance and functional characteristics. Performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the international textile and clothing industry and market growth is being fuelled by the emergence of new fibres, new fabrics and innovative process and technologies. The integration and harmonization of nature, society and individuals through biotech, micro tech, and nanotech with fashion technology helps to research on new ideal fibre, which is able to harmonize human lifestyles and activities with nature.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2. Categories of Smart clothing Smart textiles can be broken into two different categories: Aesthetic and Performance Enhancing. Aesthetic examples include everything from fabrics that light up to fabrics that can change color. Some of these fabrics gather energy from the environment by harnessing vibrations, sound or heat, reacting to this input. Then there are performance enhancing smart textiles, which will have a huge impact on the athletic, extreme sports and military industries. There are fabrics that help to regulate body temperature, reduce wind resistance and control muscle vibration. Other fabrics have been developed for protective clothing to guard against extreme environmental hazards like radiation and the effects of space travel [5]. Smart textiles for the future can be grouped as health and hygiene, safety and protective, work wear, leisure activities and fashion. 2.1 Smart technology (Digital) in textiles Smart, intelligent or functional textiles will have sensing and measuring capability, electro spinning techniques, activation capability and intelligence (programming capability). There is innovation in development of new type of textile fibres and structures for conductive materials. Miniaturisation techniques to integrate electronics into textile structures and products are also in boom. There also are different kinds of wireless technologies enabling it to be wearable and communicating with other devices such as computers or mobile phones. These can be incorporated into a textile material by creating electrically active zones within the structure. The smart technics can be incorporated either by electrical elements attached externally to the garment, with a power pack strapped on the side or by developing a fibres that can conduct electricity and combined with 16

the normal fibres in a garment to create localised conductive areas and pathways. The second type electronic textiles produce heat-generating knitted structures, knitted transducers, and sensors and lightemitting fabrics [6]. Thermo chromic materials (TCM), when encapsulated in the fabrics, sense the changes in environmental temperature which accordingly changes the color of the fabric to suit the external climate. Similarly, by encapsulating Phase change Materials (PCM) in fabrics, which absorb heat energy when it changes from solid state to liquid state and releases heat energy when it reverts back, a temporary cooling or heating effect on the clothing layer, keeps the wearer comfortable [7].

Figure 2.1: Intelligent textile system using different electrode configurations [8]

2.2 Smart technology in Medical The function of intelligent textiles in medical field is to focus on monitoring the wearer's health or to facilitate communication. The opportunity to use different materials and weave them into threedimensional structures allows to manufacture textile products characterized not only by the qualities contributed by each fiber or yarn, but also by the way they are weaved together in a three dimensional structure. This way, key aspects in medicine such as cooling, heating, venting, draining or moisture keeping can be enhanced by a certain textile structure. A flexible, honey-impregnated dressing for direct application to a wound for absorbing wound exudates. There are seamless knitted vests with integrated electrodes for ECGs and respiratory monitoring, and knitted resistive stretch sensors in a sensor-sock used for monitoring 3D orientation in the foot of people who are recovering from a minor stroke [9]. May - June 2015

SMART TEXTILE power to operate small electronic devices. A mobile phone or any other form of communication device attached with the clothing can transmit the information from the garment to a command post.

Figure 2.2: Smart technology in medical field [10]

Figure 2.3: Smart technology in fashion field [11]

2.4 Smart clothing for protection Smart clothing can be used in high risk work sector as wounded soldiers at the war front, fire fighter who is hurt at work and police officer in danger. The apparels infused with smart yarns could help in blood detection, sending a signal and store energy, which will provide May - June 2015

Figure 2.4: Smart technology for protection [12]

2.5 Demand for smart textiles As there is advances in Science and technology innovations are leading towards development of smart/ functional clothing. These clothing respond to the environmental changes and function as per the need. This is an emerging sector and it is still in its infancy, but it is an area that is fast growing [13]. In 2008 the market for smart textiles was reported to be worth US$720 million. Smart textiles are designed to integrate electronic components or monitors for taking physical measurements into fabric. Future textiles will have the ability to monitor their environment and interact accordingly in order to accomplish a pre-programmed functionality [14]. There is a need for a novel technology with electronically active and sensor fibres, which will be the basic building blocks of the next generation of smart fibrous materials. "No Contact" is a research and development company focused on wearable technologies synthesizing advanced textile with electronics and computation for personal protection and safety. The mission is to help protect security personnel, law enforcement officers, military and civilians using the latest in wearable technologies [15]. 3. Conclusions Textiles are undergoing a revolution and have become an active interface between the body and its environment. Intelligent textiles have high potential impact in surgical, patient clothing, drug delivery and the environment. Smart technology of today incorporated a variety of intelligent materials in clothing. Smart textiles are the fabrics that have been developed with new technologies that provide added value to the wearer and have the ability to do many things that traditional fabrics cannot do as 17

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3 Smart technology in fashion In fashion the applications are more focused on visual or tactile feedback from the wearer. Smart textile represents the next generation of textiles and today it is dominating research and commercial activities. Smart textiles technologies that can be incorporated into fashion includes color changing fabrics; shape memory textiles, sweat-free garments etc. Innovation of invisible helmet proves advanced wearable technology which has sensor and airbag technologies and textile transforms the view of wearing a helmet. Exciting innovations are emerging in smart textiles and the sector's growth prospects are helped by the trend in increasing demand for performance features in mainstream fashion. Smart shirt were developed which is embedded with sensors that feel the touch, the skin warmth and the heartbeat rate of the sender and actuators the sensation of touch, warmth and emotions of the hug to a shirt of another shirt. Innovations in these sectors create significant demand for functional clothing which has a massive impact on today's fashion trends. These smart techniques create a whole new horizon to develop high fashion products which will take the fashion industry to its pinnacle.

SMART TEXTILE communication, transform, conduct energy etc. The innovation in the sector to come out with the product for the future by incorporating dashing technologies has huge demand. The emerging field of smart textiles can contribute new solutions to a wide range of problems related to different sectors. The burgeoning interest in smart technology opens a floodgate of opportunities for developing new and innovative products in the textile and fashion sector.

References

10.

3. 4.

Berglin, L. Interactive Textile Structures, PhD Thesis, Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg, Sweden, 2008. Baltic fashion.eu Project, published by the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås (2007-2013) Anon, Electronic Textiles, Wiley Online Library. John Wiley & Sons, Inc (2009). Hamedi, Mahiar ; Forchheimer, Robert ; Inganäs, Olle, Towards woven logic from organic electronic fibres, Nature Materials. Nature Publishing Group. (2007). Min. B.M, Lee G, Kim.S Nam.Y.S, Lee T.S and Para W. H., Biomaterial, 25, 289 (2004)

11. 12.

13.

14. 15.

Michael R. Lee, Robert D. Eckert, Karen Forberich, Gilles Dennler, Christoph J. Brabec, Russell A. Gaudiana, American Association for the Advancement of Science.America (2007). Harlin, A., Ferenets, M. Edited by H Mattila, Introduction to Conductive Materials. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK, 2006 Langenhove L V, Hertleer C, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 16(1/2) 63 72 (2004). Chen Jyh Ping and Lee Win li Appl Surface Sai 255,412 (2008) Watson NFS and Hodgkin.W, Surgery,23 52, (2005) Voigt K, 'Smart fashion strives for long-distance interaction' CNN News website, (2007). Advances in functional , smart and innovative textiles(AFSIT-2014),organised by PSG Institute of Advanced Studies,9-11, (2014) Bhuvanesh Gupta, Roopali Agarwal and M.S Alam, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 35,174-187(2010). http://www.cnn.com/2007/TECH/ptech/01/08/ wearable.digital http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-textiles ❑ ❑ ❑

ANNOUNCEMENT THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Mumbai Unit organises

International Exhibition for Textile Industry Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Date: 16, 17 & 18th March, 2016 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (East), Mumbai - 400 063, INDIA For more information & Stall booking please contact:

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 3rd Floor, 86 College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguese Church / Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel : 022- 2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax : 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com / taimu@mtnl.net.in / taimu@net9online.in Website:www.indiatex.co.in / www.textileassociationindia.com Haresh B. Parekh : Exhibition Convenor: +91-9167515676 Anil G. Mahajan : Exhibition Co-ordinator: +91-9324904271 18

May - June 2015

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

PEER REVIEWED

Application of Textile Materials in Earth-quake Resistance Constructions V. C. Mudnoor*, R. P. Sawant, A. V. Mahajan & A. L. Gulve Anuradha Engineering College Abstract The present paper reports some of the important application of textile materials in earthquake resistance constructions. In earthquake resistant design it is important to ensure ductility in the structure, i.e. the structure should be able to deform without causing failure and the use of textile in earthquake resistant design will give better ductility in the structure. Keywords Aramide fibre, Earthquake, FRC, Glass fibre, Textile structures etc.

Repair of these structures with like materials is often difficult, expensive, hazardous and disruptive to the operations of the building. Most of these structures need strengthening or seismic upgrading work in order to ensure their conservation and functional use. A recent development in fibre reinforced composites (FRC) can solve many of these problems. These materials are extremely strong with high ultimate strain. They are chemically inert and corrosion resistant. Moreover, they are very light and that facilitates easy implementation at site with less supporting structures. These methods are cleaner and the materials used cure very quickly. This leads to shorter down time of the affected structure [2]. Appropriate configurations of fiber and polymer matrix are being developed to resist the complex and multidirectional stress fields present in building structural members. At the same time, the large volumes of material required for building repair and the low cost *All correspondence should be addressed to, V.C. Mudnoor Asst. Prof. Anuradha Engineering College Chikhli - 443201 E-mail : vmudnoor.tx008@gmail.com May - June 2015

of the traditional building materials create a mandate for economy in the selection of FRC materials for building repair. 2. Structural Damages Due to Earthquake Earthquake is seismic vibration which generates ground motion both in horizontal and vertical directions. Due to the inertia of the structure this ground motion generates shear stress and bending moment in the structural framework. In earthquake resistant design it is important to ensure ductility in the structure, i.e. the structure should be able to deform without causing failure. Strength and ductility of structures depend mainly on proper detailing of the reinforcement in beam-column joints. The flow of forces within a beamcolumn joint may be interrupted if the shear strength of the joint is not adequately provided. Under seismic forces, the beam-column joint region is subjected to horizontal and vertical shear forces whose magnitudes are many times higher than those within the adjacent beams and columns. Conventional concrete loses its tensile resistance after the formation of multiple cracks. So, the joints need to be more ductile to efficiently bear or dissipate the seismic forces. Ultimately, in the event of an earthquake, structural damage depends on FIVE very important components. ◆ The strength of the earthquake waves that reach the surface ◆ The duration of the motion ◆ Proximity ◆ Geologic foundation ◆ Structural design and construction quality 19

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Many un-reinforced wood and steel reinforced masonry structures are widely present around the world. These structures are designed for gravity loads and are not able to withstand seismic forces during earthquake and caused wide spread damages. To conserve the historic structural heritage of the country it is necessary to develop innovative techniques for rehabilitating deteriorating structures [1].

TECHNICAL TEXTILE 2.1 Buildings collapse Seismic vibrations that occur during earthquakes cause buildings to sway, which may knock them off of their foundations and cause severe damage or destruction. People can be trapped in collapsed buildings or under rubble that collapses into the street.

Figure 2.1 : Building Collapse

2.2 Roadways collapse When an earthquake strikes, freeways, bridges, and roads buckle under the pressure of the intense seismic activity [3].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 2.2: Roadways Collapse

3. Materials for Strengthening of Structures Fiber reinforced cement composite materials consist of strong fibers such as carbon, glass and aramid bound together by a matrix. The matrix can be vinylester, polyester, or epoxy resin. Composite materials have been used for more than forty years in aerospace and other industries. The mechanical properties of composite materials depend on the fiber to matrix ratio. In composite materials, the fibers provide strength and stiffness to satisfy design requirements and the matrix provides load transfer among fibers, dimensional stability, and fiber support and protection. Composite materials have many advantages over conventional materials such as steel. Among them are high specific strength, high specific stiffness, corrosion resistance, high fatigue resistance, thermal stability, 20

low cost and ease of installation. By selecting the appropriate fiber, matrix and geometry, composite materials can be tailored to satisfy a specific application. They also present some disadvantages such as low in-plane transverse (i.e. shear) strength, low interlaminar strength, linear elastic behavior up to failure, and potential sensitivity to moisture and UV radiation [4]. By applying fibre reinforcement on the wall surface one can observe a failure in the fibers, in the fibre matrix, the brick surface or in the interaction areas. Due to the fact that masonry has high compressive strength, but low tensile strength, diagonal cracks form due to a compression strut under lateral gas pass (5) as shown in Figure 3.3 Not often the cracks are crossing the bricks. The reason for failure (6) and (7) is the different material behavior from bricks and mortar. The soft mortar has a low Young's modulus, but in comparison the bricks are very stiff. As a result the mortar carries more lateral strain than the brick and with the interconnection, the adverse three dimensional load case compression-tension-tension and the low tension strength occurs vertical or diagonal cracks (6), (7). In most cases gaping cracks are developed if the tension forces are higher than the adhesive tensile strength between mortar and brick. If fibers are oriented in such a way that they cross existing or potential crack locations, they provide resistance against tensile forces which can prevent or stop crack growth. Especially in sliding joints (2) diagonal fibers prevent the decrement of shear resistance in the wall. This is the main factor for inplane loading and for the bracing system of a building in earthquake areas. The shear failure occurs by exceeding the adhesive shear strength of the mortar or un-commonly in the stones. Similar to the function of rebar in reinforced concrete the fibers more "bridge over" the cracks by providing tensile strength. However, the fibers do not improve the compressive strength. Different to reinforced concrete is the size of the crack width. Instead of millimeters the fiber reinforcement has to work in the centimeter region. Due to this reason the ductility of the fiber system has a high impact [5, 6].

Texttreasure Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes courage is the little voice at the end of the day that says I'll try again tomorrow. - Mary Anne Radmacher May - June 2015

TECHNICAL TEXTILE between the mortar brick interface, a lot of small cracks in the matrix without bonding decline, the stiff ARGF at the beginning and the ductile PPF after greater cracks in the masonry.

With four main characteristics it is possible to construct a special textile for masonry: (a) Amount of fibre directions, (b) respective inclination angle between the fibers, (c) single or different material types and (d) amount of fibers. For the last point the common way is to calculate with the (fibre-) weight per m² the required tensile strength. Fiber selection is a design problem with polymer, glass, and carbon fibers being the primary material types. Generally, strip reinforcement calls for uniaxial stiff fibers with epoxy adhesive, in opposite to wide area coverage systems calling for more ductile fibers in a multiaxial weave or warp knit pattern. A matrix compound adhesive in combination with carbon fibers with its low strain capacity is an unfavorable option, while the high tensile strength is advantageous. A better solution is a combination with polypropylene fibers (PPF) and ARglass fibers (ARGF). The PPF performs a high strain rate capacity till the full force is activated. The ARglass fibers with high stiffness and tensile strength can overtake the first load until the strains reach the ultimate strain value and break. After breaking the PPF will be activated. Through the weight ratio of PPF and ARGF the ductility from the masonry and the textile is adjustable. The special weaving technique enables the production of multiaxial textiles with different fibre directions with user defined orientation angles. For different small shear and wall tests 2-axial, 3-axial and 4-axial textiles with integrated optical fibers sensors were produced and tested. The range of the weights per square meter was between 290 g/m² and 590 g/m². The weight from the optimized textile was around 425 g/m² and had 4 fibre directions. Especially for failure mode (2) fibers in 450 angel over the cracks can stabilize the shear resistance and this effect is very important for the ductile behavior of the structure. The textile-stone-mortar composite acts like a laminar ductile tensile reinforcement. The optimal functionality is affected through the high adhesive tensile strength May - June 2015

Figure 4.1: Aramid fiber sheet

High strength aramid fiber can be applied to the inside (i.e., non blast loaded side), or to both sides of masonry walls. In the case of load bearing walls, high strength aramid fibers must be attached to both sides of the wall to prevent wall failure during rebound. Figure 4.2 shows a typical construction procedure of aramid retrofitting system. Epoxy resin is used for matrix of the sheets. Figure 6 shows a test wall with aramid matting. Aramid fibers are encased in a 0.03 inch thick layer of resin and placed parallel to the direction of the wall span between supports. Carbon or E- Glass fibers are optional high strength fibers that can be used in place of aramid [1, 7]. Table 4.1shows the specifications of the reinforcing materials.

Texttreasure We spend precious hours fearing the inevitable. It would be wise to use that time adoring our families, cherishing our friends and living our lives. - Maya Angelou 21

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.3: Common failure modes in masonry structures

4. Retrofitting Walls for Seismic Loads Using Aramid Fibers High strength fibers and elastometric polymer bonded to walls can significantly strengthen walls against wind, seismic and blast loads. This System uses woven aramid fiber sheets as the reinforcing material. Aramid fibers are arranged to the axial direction of the sheets as shown in Figure 4.1. Aramid fiber sheets are characterized by light weight, high strength, no corrosion, and non-conductivity.

TECHNICAL TEXTILE Table 4.1: Specification of the reinforcing materials Weight Thickness Width (mm) (g/m2) (mm)

Tensile Young's strength modulus (X (N/mm2) 103 N/mm2)

280

2060

0.193

Aramid 1 415

0.286

623

0.430

235

0.169

Aramid 2 350

0.252

525

0.378

100

118

fiber strands are used as materials of the CF anchors. Sizing level of the carbon fiber strand is regulated smaller in order that the epoxy resin can be easily impregnate into the strand. Table 5.1and 5.2 lists their design specification values. Table 5.1: Specifications of the carbon fibre sheets

300 2350

500

Fibre areal weight (g/m2) Thickness (mm) Tensile strength (MPa) Young's modulus (GPa)

200 0.111 3400 230

300 0.167 3400 230

Table 5.2: Specifications of the carbon fibre strands Type 2

Cross section (mm )

12K

24K

0.435

0.870

Tensile strength (MPa) 4500 for strands 3400 for CF-anchor 4500 for strands 3400 for CF-anchor Young's modulus (GPa) 230

230

Figure 4.2: Typical construction procedure

Figure 5.1: Schematic diagram of the SR-CF system

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.3: Attaching aramid fiber sheet

5. SR-CF System (Seismic Retrofit by Carbon Fiber sheet) The SR-CF system is a seismic retrofitting technology for existing reinforced concrete buildings by adhering carbon fiber sheets with epoxy resin on the concrete surfaces. This system can improve the structural properties of independent columns, columns with wingwalls, beams, and walls by using special devices called CF-anchors, while conventional seismic strengthening by carbon fiber sheets has been considered to be effective only to independent columns. The use of the CF-anchor is the most characteristic in this system. 5.1 Specifications for materials PAN type unidirectional carbon fiber sheets and carbon fiber strands are used in the SR-CF system. Carbon 22

The innovative technique called CF-anchor is used in this system. The CF-anchor is a bundle of carbon fiber strands which are strings of 2 to 3 mm in diameter consisting of 24,000 or 12,000 filaments. There are two types of CF-anchors. One is penetrating type, and another the fixing type. The penetrating anchors are used for the shear strengthening of columns with wing walls. A bundle of carbon fiber strands is penetrated through a hole drilled at the wing wall. The ends of the bundle are spread like a fan and adhered to the carbon fiber sheet which is previously applied on the column. The bundle joins the both ends of the carbon fiber sheet, which was separated by the side wall. Consequently, it is made possible to envelop the column by the carbon fiber without demolishing a part of wing walls. Beams with slabs can be strengthened by the same method. The fixing-type CF-anchors are used for the shear strengthening of walls as shown in Figure 5.1. The carbon fiber sheet is adhered on the wall May - June 2015

TECHNICAL TEXTILE surface diagonally. An end of the CF-anchor is spread like a fan and adhered to the carbon fiber sheet. The other end is inserted into a hole drilled on the peripheral reinforced concrete frame and is fixed with injected epoxy resin. The CF-anchors fix the edges of the carbon fiber sheets on the wall to the peripheral columns and beams [7].

7. Conclusion Textile materials are successfully applied for earthquake resistant construction. Generally constructions are designed for gravity loads and are not able to withstand seismic forces during earthquake and caused wide spread damages. We can able to minimize this damage by using textile materials while making these structures.

6. Glass Fiber Retrofitting to Protect Bridge from Earthquake Older concrete columns are reinforced with ring and rods of steel. These concrete columns crack and spall during seismic vibrations. They are also vulnerable to corrosion. Seismic upgrades have traditionally involved retrofits with concrete or steel jackets, but these techniques are expensive and time-consuming, and the jackets also require maintenance over time.

8. Acknowledgements The authors express their sincere thanks to Principal Dr. A.N. Nanhai and H.O.D (Textile Department) A.V. Mahajan, AEC, Chikhli for the cooperation and support.

1. 2.

An easier, more cost-effective technology for strengthening concrete columns has recently been developed, the Snap Tite Composite Column Reinforcement. Snap Tite consists of an external composite fiberglass jacket, approximately 1/8 inch thick, that literally "snaps on" to the concrete column as shown in Figure 6.1. This composite is comprised of glass fibers and corrosion resistant isopolyester resins, manufactured into a single-seamed cylindrical jacket that encloses the column, which must be even and uniform in shape. The jacket contains the column, preventing the concrete from expanding due to seismic stress or temperature variations [1, 7].

Figure 6.1: Installing Prefabricated Fiberglass jacket

Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Mrinal Singha, Journal of Safety Engineering, 1(2), 17-25, (2012). Abhijit Mukherjee and Mangesh V. Joshi, The Indian Concrete Journal, December (2001). http://file:///H:/Documents%20and%20Settings/cr/ Desktop/ Textiles%20in%20Earthquake%20textiles/ New%20Folder/ TYPES%20OF%20DAMAGE%20CAUSED% 20BY%20EARTHQUAKES.htm Juan I V Dimas, Mohammad R Ehsani And Hamid Saadatmanesh, Seismic Retrofit of URM Walls With Fiber Composites, 12WCEE, (2000). L. Stempniewski, Polyfunctional Technical Textiles for the Protection and Monitoring of Masonry Structures Against Earthquakes, POLYMAST Project, series 227887, May (2011). M.Urban, L.Stempniewski, Reinforcement and Measurement Method for Earthquake Damaged Masonry Buildings Tested on A Shaking Table, III ECCOMAS Thermatic Conference on Computational Methods in Structural Dynamics and Earthquake Engineering, Confu, Greece, (5), 25-28, (2011). Recent Development of Seismic Retrofit Methods in Japan, Japan Building Disaster Prevention Association, January (2005). ❑ ❑ ❑

Meet your potential clients, boosting your sales and marketing activities May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

References

PEER REVIEWED

GENERAL

The Factors Affecting the Purchase Intentions of Young Generation for Branded Apparels Dipanjan Kumar Dey Department of Marketing and Strategy, IBS Hyderabad Abstract Effectively analyzing Consumer Buying Behavior is one of the must-do tasks in a retail sector. This research has analyzed the factors influencing the consumers buying behavior for branded apparels with young generation, across both genders, as the target customers. A focus group study was carried out in order to identify the variables such as Quality, Price, Variety, Promotional schemes, Advertisement, Easy availability, Frequency of new arrivals, Celebrity endorsement. We also went through the existing research material available through various sources and a questionnaire based on these variables was developed. In order to ensure the understandability and clarity of the items to the target group, we pre- tested the same. The data was then collected through a sample survey. The data analysis and interpretation has been done through multiple regression analysis.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Branded apparels, Consumer behavior, Purchase intention, Young consumers

1. Introduction The phenomenal increase of organized retail aided by a consistent growth in income levels point towards a strong branded apparels market in India. Growth in tier - 2 and 3 cities, demographic shifts and increasing brand awareness will help in establishing the market of branded apparels. Domestic apparels market in India was approximately valued at Rs. 1, 25,000 Crores out of which 40 percent was shared by branded apparels [1]. Organized retail is responsible for a meager 18 percent of all apparel sales in India. Men's formal wear and women's western wear are the most sought after product categories for branded apparels. A number of competitors have made their presence felt in this market. Madura Fashions and Lifestyle Ltd. (main brands - Louis Philippe, Van Huesen, Peter England, Allen Solly), Kewal Kiran Clothing Ltd (Killer and Lawman brands) Page Industries (licensee of the Jockey brand) are some of the top players in this market. Many established foreign apparel brands are also present in India on their own. Apparels industry has been the subject of research in recent past by a number of authors. Private labels choice *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Dipanjan Kumar Dey Assistant Professor, Department of Marketing and Strategy, IBS Hyderabad, IFHE University, Dontanapally Village, Shankarpally Road, Hyderabad - 501203 E mail: dipanjandey@ibsindia.org 24

factors were investigated by [2]. Same facilities when offered at retail stores led to easy switching of brands by consumers in branded apparels [3]. A study [4] reported that demographic factors influence consumer behavior towards branded apparels. Perceived risk, consciousness and price-quality association factors were considered as the main factors affecting consumer behavior [5]. It has been found that quality, price, trust, availability, brand image and packaging affect consumer behavior in branded apparels [6]. Research done earlier considered price, quality and risk as prime factors affecting consumer behavior [7]. Studies in the past reported that price and quality are important factors determining consumer behavior [8]. Pricing and advertising was considered vital [9]. It is reported that younger generation has high purchase frequency, fashion fanship, and impulse buying as compared to other groups in the society [10]. Over the next decade, we are likely to see a number of strong multi-million brands emerge in branded apparels, but some of them will fall by the wayside, given the critical importance of understanding changes in customer tastes and preferences as well as managing cash flows. Looking into the fact that a major targeted segment of this market is the young population, a study is warranted to understand what are the factors those influence their purchase intention of branded apparels? Such a study would help current and future companies to design their marketing strategies focusing specifically on factors that are proven May - June 2015

GENERAL

2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Research Design Initial exploratory research was conducted followed by descriptive research .In exploratory research, two focus group discussions consisting of 6 members each was conducted. This helped in listing out variables that are considered contemporary and useful to the target respondents in making a purchase for branded apparels. In descriptive research data was collected through survey questionnaire with a sample size of 250. Exploratory research helped to identify the various factors which influenced the purchase intentions. The descriptive research helped to collect the first hand information relevant to the study. In addition, it supported in the objective to understand the impact of each variable on the next purchase intention.

â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Dependent variable (criteria variable): Purchase intention

â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Independent variables (predictor variable): Quality, Variety, Price, Confidence, Promotional scheme, Recognition, Money spent, Advertisement, Retail outlet, Easy availability, Celebrity endorsement, Availability of size, New arrival, Availability of accessories

3. Results and Discussion Multiple regression analysis was used to examine the linear relationship between purchasing intention and the various independent variables considered in the study by quantifying the impact of various simultaneous influences upon single dependent variable (purchase intention). The usual tests related to checking the assumptions (such as low multicollinearity, homoscedasticity, normal distribution of error terms) were performed and results were found to be satisfactory. Table 3.1 reports overall significance of the model with the help of ANOVA. The hypothesis that is tested initially is at least one the coefficients is not equal to zero Table 3.1: Overall significance of the model Model

2.2 Questionnaire Development and Pretesting The final questionnaire evolved after many stages of reformulating and restructuring. A pilot test was conducted with a sample of 30 respondents prior to conducting the actual survey. This was done mainly to test the language of the questionnaire and know whether the respondents interpreted the question as intended. Errors and Confusing words were modified and certain explanations were added. Purposive sampling was used to select the sample, so that only young population in the age range of 18 - 30 years is considered for the study. Data was collected from students belonging to different management institutes in Hyderabad city. A total of 250 samples were collected within a week's time frame. 2.3 Variable Description Based on focus groups discussions and thorough literature review the following were the variables used in the study:

May - June 2015

Sum of Squares

1 Regression 54.039

Mean Square

5.834 .000

3.860

Residual

155.485

235

.662

Total

209.524

249

Significance (p values)

If p value is less than level of significance then we reject H0 which means that our model is a good model. Here the p value is .000 which is implying that the model we are proposing is statistically robust and not based on mere random chance. Residuals are the difference between observed and predicted values of criteria variable. High difference in the mean square value of regression and residual claims that the predictor variables are influential on the criteria variable. Here the difference is not very high depicting the low influence of variables. Table 3.2 reports the model summary. The coefficient of determination of R2 value is 0.258 which means that 25.8% of the variance in the dependent variable is accounted for by our model. However it tends to overestimate the success of the model because it does not 25

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

scientifically to be influencing targeted customers in a positive manner. The basic objective underlying this study is to analyze the factors that influence the buying intentions of young consumers for branded apparels. Previous research carried out by different researchers has shown that there are multiple factors having an impact on buying intentions. Through this research we intend to analyze the impact of psychological factors, demographic factors and cultural factors on purchase intentions.

GENERAL adjust for number of observations and number of predictor variables. It is the adjusted value of R2 which takes into account the number of predicted variables and observations. We have an adjusted R2 value of 0.214, implying that our model accounts for 21.4% of variance in the dependent variable. Standard error of estimate is the difference between the standard deviation of observed and predictor observation of the criteria variable. Our value is 0.813 which is modest. Table 3.2: Model Summary

Model R 1

R Square Adjusted Std. Error of R2 the Estimate

.508 .258

.214

.813

Table 3.3 reports the individual coefficients along with their significance (p value). The variable is said to be

significant if the p value is less than the level of significance. For all practical purpose 10% level of significance (0.10) is considered for this study. Here variables that are significant include: quality (0.074), confidence (0.005), promotional schemes (0.008), easy availability (0.06), size available (0.044), and new arrival (0.058). Unstandardized beta values cannot be compared without adjusting for means and variances of the variables being related so we consider only standardized values of beta. The corresponding values of beta for the variables contributing significantly are quality (0.113), confidence (0.185), promotional schemes (0.171), easy availability (0.119), size available (0.123), and new arrival (0.119). The variable's which are significant and have highest beta value contributes most to the variation of dependent variable. Here it is confidence of the respondents in the brand that they are purchasing.

Table 3.3 Regression Coefficients

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Model

Unstandardized Coefficients

Standardized Coefficients

t-values

Significance (p value)

1.718

.087

Beta

Std. Error

Beta

Constant

.814

.474

Quality

.130

.072

.113

1.792

.074

Variety

.076

.065

.075

1.164

.246

Price

-.065

.064

-.061

-1.013

.312

Confidence

.176

.062

.185

2.832

.005

Promotional Schemes

.143

.054

.171

2.677

.008

Recognition

.002

.055

.003

.045

.964

Money Spent

.055

.046

.073

1.197

.232

Advertisements

.010

.057

.012

.173

.863

Retail Outlet

.076

.064

.080

1.187

.236

Easy Availability

.118

.062

.119

1.893

.060

Celebrity Endorsement

-.076

.051

-.099

-1.489

.138

Size Available

.127

.063

.123

2.024

.044

New Arrivals

.111

.058

.119

1.906

.058

Accessories Availability

-.036

.057

-.040

-.622

.534

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion 26

May - June 2015

GENERAL 4. Conclusion We can derive pretty useful conclusions from the model that is tested. The overall model is significant so we can say that it is helping us to know the reasons for the variations in the purchase intentions of customers. In the above analysis it is seen that the following variables are significant: confidence, promotional schemes, size availability, new arrival, and quality. Beta value for the confidence is highest among all the significant variables. This indicates that this variable has the most major impact on the purchase intention of customers with respect to branded apparels. Hence, companies selling branded apparels would benefit immensely if they focus on creating confidence regarding the brand among the target audience. Advertising of the brand should focus on the emotional appeal rather than the functional appeal. It should depict that the brand imparts a sense of attachment and pride. In order to increase sales, one needs to focus more on promotional schemes i.e. give more offers since the target audience is the young generation who make comparative offers assessments while making purchases. Moreover distribution channel must be such that the apparels are easily available and in all sizes. There should also be constant innovation in the apparels. Companies in branded apparels should focus more on designs. Quality of the apparel is also one the important factors to be considered for increasing the sales. The companies should not forgo the quality aspect of the apparel as ultimately the consumer looks upon value for money. As we can see that brand in itself is more influential in molding customer's decision for purchasing the

branded apparels so the firms must emphasize a great deal on the positioning aspect. Also, we see that advertisement is not contributing significantly, so essentially the firms need to differentiate their brands through some other means to capture the distinctive position. Reference 1.

Srinivasan, A., Branded apparels poised to grow, The Hindu, (November 17, 2013). Available at: http://www.thehindu.com/business/Industry/ branded-apparels-poised-to-grow/ article5358676.ece 2. Gupta A., The ICFAI Journal of Brand Management, 1(3), 6-21, (2004). 3. Memon S.S., The ICFAI Journal of Marketing Management, 5(3), 54-69, (2006). 4. Radha Krishna G and Shylajan C.S., The ICFAI Journal of Marketing Management, 6(3), 6-21, (2007). 5. Shannon, R. and Mandhachitara, R., Brand Management, 12 (6), 461-474, (2005). 6. Wells, L. E., Heather Farley, and Armstrong, G. A., International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management 35(9), 677-690, (2007). 7. Ashokkumar, S. and Gopal, S., The ICFAI University Journal of Brand Management, 6(1), 3556, (2009). 8. Ailawadi, K.L., Pauwels, K. and Steenkamp, E.M., Journal of Marketing, 72(6), 19-30, (2008). 9. Karray, S. and Martin-Herran, G., Review of Marketing Science, 6, 1-37, (2008). 10. Pentecost, R. and Andrews, L., Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 17(1), 43-52, (2010). â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018;

Perfect pathway creating a global business identity!!! May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

www.textileassociationindia.org

TEXPERIENCE

Humidification Plants - Some Operational Norms

R. N. Yadav Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wide experience in the Textile Industry of last 46 years' service in Spinning & Composite Mills. He has started his career from the supervisory level and gradually with his skill and talent in work experience he elevated to the Mill President. He has occupied the independent top authority of Vice President & President during his 32 years' service.

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Mr. Yadav worked with leading industrial houses like Bharat Commerce & Industries, Bhilwara Group, Mohota Group, Uryalata, Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group (Nepal). Mr. Yadav independently started & worked successfully on four new projects and renovated five mills. He established many new milestones in quality & productivity. He presented several papers in textile conferences and other meets affiliated to textile industries. He has 78 technical & managerial papers published in textile journals and national dailies. Mr. Yadav has written a hand book "Productivity" on strategic industrial management in 2004.

Introduction In textile industry, humidification plants are in use in spinning rooms and weaving sheds. To process mechanically variety of fibres like cotton, polyester, viscose, acrylic and blends in spinning and similarly variety of yarns like cotton, polyester, viscose, acrylic filaments and blends in loomshed. As moisture content in the above mentioned fibres and blends vary highly in range of 0.4 to 13 percent in general, it becomes pertinent to operate humidification plants of proper design for standard and controlled working condition for products to process on different types of machines. For suitable moisture content in air in the working area temperature and relative humidity should be maintained within comfort zone. Comfort Zone In theory human comfort exists when the rate of heat production becomes equal to the rate of heat loss. This equilibrium is maintained by requisite temperature, humidity, air-velocity and air-purity. The feeling of comfort experienced by an individual depends upon various factors such as eating habits, type of clothing, duration of stay, age, sex, rate of activity and soon. Since the feeling of comfort is controlled by number of variables, there is no proper method to measure it. A proper control of dry bulb temperature and relative humidity can ensure reasonable closeness to a feeling of comfort. The American Society of Heating and Refrigeration Engineers (ASRAE) conducted exhaustive tests on various people subjected to wide variation of combinations of temperature, relative humidity and air-motion. It is measure of feeling warm or cold of the human body in response to the air temperature, moisture content and the air motion. When the relative humidity is low, the evaporation from the body surface increases which causing under-cooling and dry skin. On the other hand when the relative humidity is high, the evaporation from the body surface ceases and causes discomfort due to stickiness. For a whole year most desirable temperature ranges between 210C to 250C and relative humidity 30 - 70 percent with air-motion 5 mtrs per minute to 8 mtrs. Per minute as shown in Fig. below:-

He was the recipient of Precitex award & Life time achievement award from The Textile Association (India), M.P.Unit. Presently Mr. Yadav is currently working with The R.S.R. Mohota Mills, Hinganghat (a composite textile unit) as President. Email : info@rsrmm.com 28

May - June 2015

TEXPERIENCE (i) High temperature and low R.H. (ii) Low temperature and high R.H.

And as such it's known as 'comfort zone'. People living in colder climatic conditions are comfortable at lower temperature than people living in warmer regions. The optimum effective temperature in winter is 180C and in summer 220C.

It has been experienced in Indian Textile Industry context, low temperature and high R.H. promotes following benefits in spinning room and loom-shed.

Fibre

Section

Cotton & Blend --"-Rayon --"-Woolen --"-Silk

Spinning Weaving Spinning Throwing Spinning Weaving Processing

Dry Bulb°C 24° 20° 24° 21° 27° 27° 24°

27° 24° 27° 24° 29° 29° 27°

◆

Ring travelers, spindle tapes, belts, aprons and cots have more working days decreasing stores consumption by 4 percent in terms of cost.

R.H. % Grams/KgDry Air 50 80 50 80 50 60 65

to maximum/minimum temperature, maximum/ minimum R.H. and air motion & direction, decision is made for size and design of humidification plants and also the operational system and schedule. Fibres and yarns to be processed need specific temperature and R.H. with due thought that conditions remain continual in comfort zone only in all seasons and within day and night i.e. 24 Hrs. The same have been shown below in Table No.1. Comfort & Productivity Comfort is a way measuring occupant's satisfaction, which in turn, can directly affect concentration and productivity and the impact -- cost of doing business. It is a phenomenon that is both physical and psychological, and it varies greatly from person to person. It can depend upon factors like type of clothing worn, level and type of activity, physical surroundings including people, furnishing and adjust spaces. Attaining optimum comfort is not practical. As a general rule of thumb, the best one can hope to achieve is satisfying about 80 percent of the occupants. The common measurable characteristics of comfort include temperature, humidity, air velocity, ventilation, vibration and noise. The factors that are difficult to quantify but have an impact on individual comfort are light glare, odors, physical space layout, proximity to other areas and ergonomics.

55 85 60 85 60 65 70

10 12 10 13 12 14 13 ◆ ◆

13 16 14 17 16 17 17

Grams/M3 Air at normal atmosphere pressure 12 - 15 14 - 19 12 - 17 16 - 20 14 - 19 17 - 20 16 - 20

Weaving efficiency up by 2 percent and defects decrease by 8 percent on conventional looms. Decline of fluffs and flies in working area. Decrease in defects in yarn and fabric. Studies byUSTER haveestablished that 70 percent of faults in spinning and weaving are beinggenerated due to fluffs and flies.

Return Air Complex Use of return air is a complex subject. It must be continually exhausted to reduce fluffs, flies, and fives (small flies). It has been observed that, whenever return air is taken back into department, yarn and fabric have poor appearance. Reason - such small flies get spunin or woven into the fabric.Poor appearance in grey fabric stage and many a times it cannot be corrected during further chemical processing. The return air use is needed mainly to increase --(i) Temperature in the department (ii) R.H. up-gradation In both the cases, manufacturing process and working environment culture deteriorates in terms of quality of product and comfort for operatives and personnel working in the department. If by any requirement it is very much needed to use exhaust as return air, mixed with outside air, filtration must be kept perfect.

Other economics Maintaining similar grams/M3 in air May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Requirement of Temperature & R.H. in Textile Industry In India, there is high variability in climatic conditions throughout the country. After giving due consideration

Textile Scaffelds in Tissue Enginearing

TEXNOTE

The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffold in future. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. In the previous chapter, we tried to put together the use of silk protein as a biomaterial for the manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds along with the various forms in which the protein is used. The various applications of silk protein for specific purpose in biosciences were also specified within the chapter. In the present chapter, the use of keratin protein extracted from wool is explored for the use as tissue engineering scaffold. The application of wool protein in different forms to manufacture tissue engineering scaffolds is also discussed. Research that is been directed towards the use of keratin extracted from wool for specific end-use application is also covered in this chapter.

Chapter 6: Wool based scaffolds

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Miss. Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar Wool is a well established animal fibre in the textile industry. It forms the protective covering, or fleece of sheep or of other hairy mammals, such as goats and camels. Prehistoric man, clothed himself with sheepskins and eventually learned to make yarn and fabric from their fibre covering. Wool grease is the fatty substance obtained from the fleece which is purified to make lanolin, a by-product employed in cosmetics and ointments. Wool fibre is chiefly composed of the animal protein, keratin. Wool keratin has a molecular weight ranging from 45 to 60 kDa present in the cortical cells to 6-28 kDa present in the matrix. The use of wool keratin in the field of tissue engineering has been started since late 1960s. Because of its waterinsolubility and the limited number of methods available for extraction and processing, keratin has attracted only minor interest in the past as a biomaterial in the field of regenerative medicine, in contrast to the attention garnered by proteins such as collagen. However, in the last decade, and particularly over the last five years, new methods have been described for the use of keratin or modified keratin, mainly obtained from wool, as a substrate or scaffold in cell cultivation and tissue engineering. Since then, the keratin extracted from wool has been explored for various tissue engineering applications. The important properties of the keratin that makes it useful as a scaffold is discussed in the below text Properties of Keratin Keratin is the main component of wool, feathers, nail, horns, and other epithelial coverings. The term 'keratin' defines all intermediate filament-forming proteins 30

found in epithelia and corneous tissues like horns, claws, hooves. The distinguishing feature of keratin than other proteins is the much higher content of cysteine residues. In wool, keratins occupy about 50 wt% of the cortical cells (outer layer of wool). Compared to other proteins, keratin is amply available and costs less to extract. Keratin based biomaterials are extensively researched for biomedical applications because of the several key properties of keratins that contribute to the overall physical, chemical and biological behavior of these biomaterials. The extracted keratin proteins have an intrinsic ability to self-assemble and polymerize into porous, fibrous scaffolds. This phenomenon of self-assembly is evident in the highly conserved superstructure of the wool fiber and when processed correctly, is responsible for the reproducible architecture, dimensionality and porosity of keratinbased materials. In addition, keratin biomaterials derived from wool have been shown to possess cell binding motifs, such as leucine-aspartic acid-valine (LDV) and glutamic acid-aspartic acid-serine (EDS) binding residues, which are capable of supporting cellular attachment. Together, these properties create a favorable three dimensional matrix that allows for cellular infiltration, attachment and proliferation. The enhanced physical, chemical and biological properties of keratins as well as the desire to exploit wool fibers as a renewable natural resource have enhanced the keratin biomaterials research over the past three decades. In comparison with other bio-materials, keratin biomaterials possess many distinct advantages, including a unique chemistry afforded by their high sulfur May - June 2015

TEXNOTE

The keratin extracted from wool is utilized in different forms to make tissue engineering scaffolds. The tissue scaffolds have different requirements as per the application of the same in the biological system. Hence the keratin protein is made in different structures to make the scaffold application-suitable. Keratin Films The preparation of protein films from keratin extracted from wool has been used for a number of years to explore the structural and biological properties of keratins. The research directed in the use of keratin films in the application as tissue scaffolds was first attempted in the year 1998. The flexibility and strength of the film was not satisfying. Hence researchers used different chemicals which increased the elasticity and also gave sufficient strength to the film. The various chemicals like glycerol were used in the preparation of the films to give the softening effect to the films. Hence further to the use of keratin as films, several approaches for controlling the physical and biological properties have been considered, including the addition of natural and synthetic polymers to keratin blended systems and new preparation techniques for pure keratin films. The polymers like chitosan, silk fibroin, poly-(hydroxyl butylate co-hydroxy valerate), polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl alcohol, gelatin are researched for the enhancing the properties of keratin films. These blended films enhanced antithrombogenicity properties and increased biocompatibility in comparison to individual keratin or other bio-polymer films. Keratin Sponges The ability of extracted keratin proteins to self-assemble and polymerize into complex three dimensional structures has led to their development as scaffolds for tissue engineering. The extracted keratin is lyophilized to form porous sponges which can be applied as support for tissue growth. The wool keratin which contains RGD and LDV sequences of protein which have cell adhesion properties thus increase in cell compatibility, attachment and proliferation of cells. The keratin protein is also used by modifying the protein with May - June 2015

various chemical treatments. The research is been carried out to functionalise the sponges using iodoacetic acid, 2-bromoethylamine, and iodoacetamide to produce carboxyl-, amino-, and amido-sponges, respectively. These chemically-modified keratin sponges have been shown to mimic extracellular matrix proteins and the large presence of active groups within the sponges has allowed for further hybridization with bioactive molecules thus increasing the bio-compatibility. The keratin was also bound with calcium and phosphate ions either chemically or by incorporation of hydroxyapatite during lyophilization. The sponges are also prepared using compression molding technique accompanied by particulate leaching. The benefits include the uniformity in pore size and interconnectivity of pores is better using this technique. This enhances the cell infiltration and efficient nutrient delivery. Additionally the use of cyto-toxic chemical for water stability which is mandatory for collagen sponges is eliminated due to the use of this method. Keratin nano-fibers The concept of electro-spinning has revolutionized the field of tissue scaffolds. This versatile yet simple technique gives the nano-fibrous form of biomaterials which can be applied in all the bio-systems in human being. The keratin protein is been applied and explored in the form of nano-fibre using this technique vividly by the researchers. The keratin protein has the intrinsically poor mechanical characteristics hence the use of keratin protein is done using the addition of synthetic or natural polymers in order to increase the processability of keratin for fiber formation. Much work has been done to characterize the intermolecular interactions between the keratin and "additive" macromolecule in order to correlate the properties of the blend solution to the properties of the electrospun fibers. The important feature as noted by the researchers was that, the blending of the keratin protein with silk fibroin not only improved the processability of keratin but also increased the macromolecular interaction hence induced the formation of networks structures thus finer nanofibres with smaller diameters were achieved. Wet-spinning is another fiber-forming technique that is traditionally been used for manufacturing man-made fibers for the industry, but has recently been employed to create single fiber biomaterials. The low mechanical strength keratin protein has hindered the production of pure keratin fibers, yet researchers have overcome these hurdles using blends of synthetic and natu31

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

content, remarkable biocompatibility, propensity for self-assembly, and intrinsic cellular recognition. The wool keratin as bio-material is at research level study and the scaffolds are researched for the properties to be better understood, controlled and exploited. Thus many biomedical applications of keratin biomaterials will make their way into clinical medicine in the near future.

TEXNOTE ral polymers with improved properties. The keratin protein was blended with poly-(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) to increase the viscosity of the spinning dope, which allowed fibers with a keratin content ranging from 13?46% to be spun. Due to the fragility of fibers with high amounts of keratin, the maximum keratin content for sufficient fiber formation was determined to be 30%. This combination of keratin and PVA proved to be advantageous in terms of mechanical strength, waterproof characteristics and the adsorption of toxic substances.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keratin hydrogel The self assembling property of keratin is been used for preparing the hydrogel of keratin protein through regenerated keratin. The keratin is extracted in suitable solvent and subjected to dialysis with distilled water in controlled environment. Keratins have the inclination to polymerize in an aqueous environment to form hydrogels. A metal ion reagent has to be used to induce the polymerization process. A hydrogel of pure keratin can also be formed by disulfide and hydrogen bonds alone, with no need of additional cross-

linking agents. Research depicts that the application of keratin hydrogels as scaffolds has increased the proliferation of the cells. Also the research has been carried out in the direction of application of the gels as heomostatic agent which gave the result that the hydrogel acted as a porous scaffold to allow for cellular infiltration and granulose tissue formation. The ability for keratin-based biomaterials to be translated into the human clinical setting is dependent on further research to elucidate the mechanisms by which these materials regulate hemostasis and nerve regeneration. Application of Keratin scaffolds The advent of application of wool keratin as a biomaterial as a tissue engineering scaffold since 1970s gave a very wide scope for the researchers to explore the use of keratin protein in different bio-systems of human body. The protein is studied variedly for its application as tissue engineering scaffold as a support for the growth of particular tissue and thus for various organs. Maiden attempt of using kerain as scaffold was in the area of vascular graft where the keratin

Composition Keratin/ glycerol Keratin/Chitosan/Gelatin Keratin

Method

Keratin/poly-(L-lactic acid)

Solvent casting

Keratin/Chitosan Keratin/multiwalled carbon nanotube/ Poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) Keratin/poly-L-lactide Keratin/polyhydroxy butyrate cohydroxy valerate Keratin Keratin/Poly(L-lactide co-glycolide) Keratin/Calcium phosphate

Lyophilization Electrospinning

Cells/Tissue/organ Fibroblasts Soft tissue PC12 cells, HOS cells and murine embryonic fibroblast Human bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells Fibroblast cells Guided bone regeneration

Electrospinning Electrospinning

Osteoblasts Fibroblasts

Freeze drying Freeze drying

Film formation Ocular surface reconstruction Solvent casting/salt leaching Cartilage tissue Lyophilization Osteoblast

Texttreasure The attempt to combine wisdom and power has only rarely been successful and then only for a short while. - Albert Einstein 32

coating was applied to a vascular graft for 200 days successfully in animal model. Since then, keratins have been used in several in vitro and preclinical models for wound healing, fluid resuscitation, bone regeneration, hemostasis and peripheral nerve repair. The overall research directed in the use of wool keratin as tissue engineering scaffold can be summarized in the following table. May - June 2015

TEXNOTE About the Authors Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conser-

vation of resources in textile wet processing, water recycling and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 100 papers in journals of national and International repute.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) (an ISO 9001:2008 certified association)

Membership Fees Sr. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Type of Membership Corporate Member Patron Member Life Time Member Overseas Member Life Time to Patron Member

One Time* Fee INR 15,000 INR 3,200 INR 2,100 USD 100 INR 1,300

* Plus add 14.00 % Service Tax Online registration also available on www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/application-form or contact respective TAI Unit For more details contact

The Textile Association (India)

May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com Website : www.textileassociationindia.org 33

UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India) TAI - Mumbai Seminar Report

"Challengea & Opportunities in Textile Processing A Way Forward" The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized a Seminar on "Challenges & Opportunities in Textile Processing - A Way Forward" at Thane on May 21, 2015. The Chief Guest was Mr. R. R. Gorakhia, Director, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Mr. S. M. Khire, Director - Operations, Welspun Syntex Ltd. was the Guest of Honour. Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomed the guests and delegates. Mr. Arun K. Narkar, Jt. Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit & Convenor of the Seminar said that this seminar was organized in Thane so that the textile processing clusters around the city of Mumbai will be benefited. The focus of the seminar was mainly on Green Environment & Green Technology.

Chief Guest, Mr. R. R. Gorakhia, Director, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India lighting the lamp.

Mr. R. R. Gorakhia, Director, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India in his inaugural address emphasised on "zero effect & zero defect" concept initiated by Government on Make in India. He also discussed about the conservation of water, steam, electrical energy, etc. in textile processing. Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit proposed a vote of the thanks. The Inaugural Function was followed by Paper Presentation in which 5 papers were presented by eminent speakers. Mr. Elliyas Mohammed, Business Development Manager (Disperse Dyes) and Mr. Subrato Modak, Business Development Manager (Reactive Dyes) Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd. jointly presented the paper on "Development in Dyes at Colourtex to meet changing customer demands".

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Ashok Athalye, General Manager - Technical Service, Atul Ltd. expressed his views on "Processing of High quality Yarn dyed Shirtings".

Guest of Honour Mr. S. M. Khire, Director - Operations, Welspun Syntex Ltd. addressing the gathering

Mr. S. M. Khire, Director - Operations, Welspun Syntex Ltd. in his address said that there are many challenges in the field of processing and these challenges creates opportunities to over come various issues.

Mr. S. M. Khire, Director - Operations, Welspun Syntex Ltd. expressed his views on "Zero Liquid Discharge System". He discussed the core of Zero Discharge System developed by Welspun Syntex Ltd. as a success story. Mr. Vishwanath S. Shastri, Deputy General Manager, A. T. E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on "Effective technology in managing Textile Effluents". Dr. Binay Kumar Choudhury, General Manager, Control

May - June 2015

UNIT ACTIVITY Union Certifications India Pvt. Ltd. discussed the importance of "Sustainable Certification in Textile Processing for Value Addition".

View of the Audience

Panel Discussion Session: Sitting (L to R): Mr. Prabodh Patel, Textile Consultant, Dr. G. S. Nadiger, Textile & Management Consultant, Mr. Prasad Pant, CEO, Nimkar Tek Technical Services Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Mahesh Sharma, M-Tex Textile Processing & Environment Consultant.

The Paper Presentations was followed by Panel Discussion which was moderated by Dr. G. S. Nadiger, Textile & Management Consultant. The Panel Comprised of Mr. Prabodh Patel, Textile Consultant, Mr. Prasad Pant, CEO, NimkarTek Technical Services Pvt. Ltd. and Mr. Mahesh Sharma, M-Tex Textile Processing & Environment Consultant. Dr. Nadiger explained various initiatives taken by industry and Govt. in regard to common effluent treatment plants for the last 20 years.

He said the Govt. has given utmost priority for pollution related issues along with technology up-gration and product diversification. Mr. Prabodh Patel discussed the importance of laboratory functioning to get the consistent results in bulk processing. Mr. Pant expressed his views to restrict the use of hazardous chemicals in the processing and why process and product chemicals knowledge is becoming a critical issue for business development. The hazardous nature and its effect should not be associated with international market as it affects environment & mankind and process optimization to target desired quality. Mr. Mahesh Sharma emphasized on cleaner production and stressed upon on resource conservation. The cleaner production helps to reduce volume and load of effluent and emission. The delegates raised various questions which were answered by the Panel. The Seminar was grand success and was attended by over 150 participants.

TIT 1966 - UMANG

Golden Jubilee Celebration TIT 1966 - UMANG (TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES - BHIWANI)

It is well known that there is a strong unmatched bonding amongst TITS 66 Umang, which is not seen among the ex-batches of TIT. Those TIT-66 batch friends are not aware about Golden Jubilee Meet at Udaipur they can be in touch with the administrator. For more details, please contact: 1. Mr. Arun Kamal Mittal Tel.: 0120-4901058 M.: +91-9810138547, +91-7838147261 E-mail: arun.k.mittal@gmail.com May - June 2015

2. Mr. Vinod Kumar Gupta M.: +91-9810027860 E mail: kumargvinod@yahoo.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Alumni (TIT 66 - UMANG), ex-students of Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani 1966 batch will be celebrating its Golden Jubilee during 18th to 20th March, 2016 (Friday-Sunday) at Udaipur to bring TITS 66- Umang closer to each other.

NEWS

Walter Kiechl appointed COO of USTER in China The new head of Uster Technologies in China is Walter Kiechl, previously Managing Director of Jossi Systems AG and USTER's Fiber Cleaning segment. He took up his new post as Chief Operating Officer for China on May 1, 2015, as a member of the Executive Management Team of Uster Technologies, reporting directly to CEO Dr. Geoffrey Scott. Mr. Kiechl was MD of the former Jossi Systems when it was acquired by Uster Technologies AG in 2013, and subsequently took charge of the USTER Fiber Cleaning activity which incorporated the Jossi equipment range. Walter Kiechl is regarded as the ideal leader for USTER's Chinese operations, with his strong engineering and business management background and wide-

ranging experience. His responsibilities will include finalizing the integration of Jossi into USTER China, as well as continuing to foster USTER's success in this market generally. The remit will also take in local development and manufacturing activities at the company's Technology Center in Suzhou. Born in 1957, Mr. Kiechl is a Swiss citizen, married with one adult daughter. His educational background includes two engineering degrees and an MBA in International Management, from the University of AppliedSciences in Bern and Brugg, Switzerland. From 1981 onwards he worked as an engineer with various Swiss-based companies, followed by 10 years as Technical Director at Carl Sigerist AG, of Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From 1999 to 2013, he was Managing Director at Jossi Systems, until its acquisition by USTER.

A.T.E. ties-up with HMSU Rollers

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E., an established single window solution provider for textile machinery and accessories, has tied-up with HMSU Rollers (India) Private Limited, Ahmedabad, to offer superior quality rubber compounds for the Indian textile industry. The essential requirements of roller coverings are their chemical resistance and the preciseness of both the formulation of the applied compound and also the rollers' finishing. This is particularly so in specialty applications like textile wet and dry finishing and sizing. Furthermore, a covering's durability is a key element for a customer so as to increase the cost-effectiveness. HMSU offers soft polyurethane rollers up to 3 meters and rubber coverings up to 12 meters in length and 1 meter in diameter. HMSU rollers provide durable compounds for sizing and wet and dry finishing of textiles, leading to: ◆ ◆ 36

High chemical resistance Endurance to high operating temperature

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Excellent wear and cut resistance Minimal hardening and glazing

HMSU Rollers (India) Private Limited is an Indian company which was founded in January 2012 as a joint venture between two European companies Hannecard NV and Mitex GmbH together with two Indian companies Shilp Gravures Ltd and Unimark International Pvt. Ltd. Hannecard and Mitex are market leaders in the business of rubber, polyurethane and composite rollers catering to Europe and many countries around the globe where they have their own presence as well as joint ventures and licensees. Hannecard and Mitex are also partners with Gomplast, Spain, an established name in textile for a range of speciality rollers. Headquartered at Ahmedabad, HMSU has stateof-the-art manufacturing and testing facilities. The outstanding quality of products and services from HMSU are recognized by the leading end users and OEMs. Customers can now look forward to having the best quality rollers and compounds made to European standards locally. With A.T.E., customers can be assured of fast and reliable solutions including services for all their processing needs. May - June 2015

NEWS

Batliboi and InspirOn join hands to Market

M/s InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd. Manufacturer of MontexRmodel of Stenter at Ahmedabad and M/s Botliboi Ltd., a multifaceted Engineering Organization with offices all over India, have entered into a strategic marketing alliance with effect from 1st of May, 2015. Batliboi will market MontexR and other recently developed 'InspirOn' Stenters. The alliance is conceived and created to market Montex Stenter, KaPrecR heat recovery unit and later on the SprintonRStenter, the recently developed and more energy efficient version, which will be presented at ITMA 2015 at Milan. Visitors can look forward to a strong presence of both InspirOn and Batliboi Teams at the ITMA 2015 in Milan. To serve the Corporate Customer with greater intensity and focus, Batliboi was the most logical and perhaps most likely choice for InspirOn an an established textile machinery agency house. On the other hand from Batliboi's point of view, a well-engineered and energy efficient STENTER was what Batliboi was looking for, to complete their finishing machine product offering.

Therefore, the the idea of marketing tie-up was initiated between these two respected Business Houses earlier this year which eventually fructified on 1st May, 2015.

L to R:Edwyn Rodriques, Nirmal Bhogilal, Prakash Bhagwati & Amol Bhagwati

This also goes very well in line with the Batliboi belief and commitment to promote well-made Indian Products'. The growing demand for stenters in the corporate sector will be serviced by Batlioboi with its strong marketing network all over the country and this will be strongly complemented by InspirOn through product quality, precision engineering and efficient country wide spares and service network.

The strength of InspirOn's design and engineering capabilities and the market reach, enthusiasm & reputation for reliability of Batliboi Textile Machinery Group, is a potent combination to ensure success of the alliance.

Open your business to the world's largest professional network. May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Batliboi and InspirOn join hands to Market MontexStenter and allied products

NEWS

BIRLA CELLULOSE wins the FROST & SULLIVAN Award For "Challengers Award - Large Business" at Green Manufacturing Excellence awards 2015

Sustainability supply chain, society and customers. GMEA 2015 summit

Sustainability - we often hear about this, but what does it really mean? It means changing the way we think about how we use our resources and make small changes that have a big impact on nature and community. To this cause and with a mission 'to assist the adoption of Green Manufacturing Practices across Indian Manufacturing Companies', Frost & Sullivan held its 2015 Edition of 'India Sustainability Summit' on 22nd May, 2015 at Hyatt Regency, Mumbai. The summit started with a full day of presentations from eminent speakers of across different businesses who spoke about their companies initiatives and takes on sustainability. This was followed by an exciting evening of awards where. Birla Cellulose was awarded the 'Challengers Award - Large Business' in the 2015 Green Manufacturing Excellence Awards category.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Based on the assessments conducted at Birla Cellulose's Kharach site and subsequently whetted by the Executive Committee of "Frost & Sullivan's Green Manufacturing Excellence Awards 2015, Birla Cellulose was awarded "Challengers Award - Large Business". Mr. H.K. Agarwal (COO for Pulp & Fibre business and Mr. Vinay Bhalerao (Unit Head of Kharach unit) were there on the stage to be felicitated with this prestigious award for Birla Cellulosic. Mr. Gowtham S of Frost & Sullivan welcomed the guests and explained the Assessment Model and Methodology of GMEA 2015. He explained that the assessment model is realigned within four major areas and 13 parameters with each having a weightage of 100 points, totaling to 1300 points. The model also took into consideration global sustainability reporting frameworks such as the UN Global Compact. The assessment for Birla Cellulose that concluded had its basis in their GMEA Assessment Model that in turn derived its inputs from the team's interaction with unit's personnel, observations in the plant and documents seen/ provided to them. The Kharach unit had a score of 823 for the entire facility. The parameters on which the assessment was done covered business strategy, Governance & Ethics, Waste & Emission, Biodiversity, Energy & water, Materials, Human Capital 38

This year's summit had an enhanced coverage of all elements of sustainability and it focused on bringing and promoting awareness among the manufacturing units across industry verticals, through best practices shared by thought leaders who are establishing the 'Green' mindset in their business as a means to sustainable growth. Distinguished leaders spoke on diverse topics on sustainability. The keynote speakers from Birla Cellulose were Mr. Ajay Sardana (Vice President & Head - Sustainability) and Mr. Rohan Batra (Special Projects) who spoke about Birla Cellulose's initiatives regarding its commitment towards a sustainable company. Mr. Batra presented on 'Product Life Cycle Management'. He spoke about the company's efforts regarding sustainability. He said, "By 2017, pulp and fibre business of Aditya Birla Group endeavours to become the industry leader for sustainable business practices across its global operations balancing economic growth with environmental and societal interests". He further said that sustainable efforts at Birla Cellulose are tested through Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). LCA assesses the environmental aspect impact associated with product, process or service. At Birla Cellulose, it is conducted from cradle to factory. He proudly said "Birla Spunshades is the most sustainable product in the market that uses a unique dyeing technique. In this dyeing technique, for 100 kg fabric, water savings are upto 70 lts/kg, effluent load is reduced by 70%, power is saved upto 3.5-4.0 KW and time is saved by 6-8 hrs per batch, ultimately reducing processing costs with better production quality and profits". Mr Ajay Sardana presented on 'Employee Sustainability Initiatives'. He said, "Employees are a key driver in driving Aditya Birla's sustainability initiatives. Our company is an exciting world of global opportunities for professional growth with human care. The way we do business is just as important as the business itself". He concluded by saying, "For sustainability program to be credible and successful, the alignment, engagement and enthusiasm of employees - both managers and the workforce - are essential". May - June 2015

NEWS

Cotton Council International launches COTTON USA in India

The COTTON USA trademark promises to deliver: purity, quality, and responsibility. In a competitive market, people need a reason to choose one product over others. ◆

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COTTON USA strives for absolute purity, with no contamination. For the consumer that means that a product with the tag COTTON USA is clean, non-irritating, and safe. For the manufacturer, it saves time and money, and helps create a superior product. COTTON USA assures quality. Cotton straight off the plant is not always as pretty as it looks in the pictures. It's not "ready-to-wear." The quality of COTTON USA is par excellence as it is finished with inventive techniques to keep its natural qualities intact. COTTON USA is committed to responsibility and ever-greater sustainability. COTTON USA is renewable, recyclable and biodegradable, so it can be returned to the earth from which it came. The COTTON USA India Summit saw the presence of key people from the retail and trade fraternity. The event commenced with an insightful presentation by Mr.HarminderSahni, CCI India Representative, on COTTON USA's vision and plans for Indian market supported by successful case studies.

May - June 2015

This was followed by a presentation from Mr. Justin Coates, Manager Market Analysis Cotton Incorporated, on the Global and Indian consumer trends and the perception of cotton vis-à-vis other fibres. He also spoke about the growing prominence of e-commerce and organised retail outlets in India. The Indian textile industry is primarily cotton focused, with cotton accounting for nearly 54% of total fibre consumption in 2014. However, the industry has inherent challenges like cotton price fluctuation, inconsistent quality of indigenous cotton and over-dependence on monsoons. In order to meet the demand, there is a requirement of high quality cotton in the country. "The Indian textile and apparel market is now more than US$100 billion and growing at a healthy rate, and it has potential to double its export share from present 5% to 10% in next 10 year. We see a huge potential in this market and hence bring the best quality cotton to the Indian consumers."said Justin Coates serves as the Manager of Market Analysis. "Consumers are well aware and conscious about what they are wearing and are looking beyond just the end product; they want superior quality fabric assurance. U.S. cotton is seen by many as the best in the world, so when this premier cotton is combined with prestigious product developers, the result is truly topof-the line, the best of the best." said Renu Aggarwal, India Representative for Cotton Council International. She further added, "Premiumisation is a well-established term in India and is happening across categories. The textile industry is also catching up by using premium quality - raw material, fabrics & innovation to make quality products in the country." 39

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Cotton Council International (CCI) has launched its 25-year old flagship brand, COTTON USA in India on 25-05-2015 at Mumbai. COTTON USA promotes U.S. cotton fiber and manufactured cotton products in more than 50 countries globally. The COTTON USA India Summit 2015 was an initiative by The Cotton Council International (CCI) to discuss the benefits of the recently launched COTTON USA in India with industry patrons.

NEWS The brand logo design embodies the idea that cotton is on a global journey. It's the story of a single fiber, born in the USA, from seed, sun, and soil-not a refinery-that travels around the world, touched at each step by those who care, both in crafting and wearing. In the end, this fiber that was born in the earth, goes fullcircle and returns to the earth.

They also shared their thoughts on the future of COTTON USA in India and the key messaging that needs to be delivered in order to win over Indian consumers and establish COTTON USA as a brand. Highlights of Consumer Research ◆

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The latter part of the evening saw a panel discussion by Industry veterans that included Mr. B.S. Nagesh, Founder TRRAIN and Vice Chairman Shoppers Stop, Mr. Aniruddha Deshmukh, President Raymond Ltd, Mr. Aditya Kulkarni, Brand Head Jack and Jones, Mr. Harminder Sahni, CCI India Representative and Mr. Justin Coates, Manager Market Analysis Cotton Incorporated. The panel discussed on the role of branding at fibre level and the impact of the same at the consumer level.

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The percentage of Indian consumers shopping at organized retail outlets has more than doubled over the past fifteen years. Online shoppers in India are not just buying clothing online, they are researching clothes (55%), comparing prices (55%), browsing styles (28%), and reading customer reviews (23%) to become better educated shoppers. Indian consumers are not destination specific when shopping for clothing online, as the majority start their shopping journey on search engines (51%) and a third start on social media sites (36%). Almost 9 in 10 Indian consumers say fiber content is important to their apparel purchase decisions. Nearly 9 in 10 Indian consumers say they prefer their clothing to be made from cotton Almost 8 in 10 Indian consumers say they are bothered brands and retailers are substituting manmade fibers for cotton in their clothing. Indian consumers are two to three times as likely to describe cotton apparel as comfortable, hypoallergenic, and durable compared to apparel made from manmade fibers.

The summit concluded with one-on-one discussions over cocktail and dinner between COTTON USA representatives and the brand and retail heads. For more information, visit www.cottonusa.in.

Apparel & Accessories Show Fashion Connect begins Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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More than 50 exhibitors to showcase whole range of apparel and accessories. Opportunity for retailers, wholesalers, distributors and ecommerce retailers tosee pan-India apparel and accessories brands. Prospects also for large format stores and brands to meet contract manufacturerswith spare capacities.

Fashion Connect saw over 50 exhibitors from across India, who comprised of producers and marketers of all types of apparels like casualwear, formalwear, eveningwear, ethnicwear, sportswear, innerwear, swimwear, intimates, fashion accessories, etc, for men, women and children. Alongside, contract manufacturers of apparels are also participating at Fashion Connect to attract new business.

SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd., a successful organiser of textile trade shows has added a new show to its existing portfolio; Fashion Connect was held from June 46, 2015 at the Trade Centre, KTPO, Whitefield in Bengaluru.

A few of the various pan-India brands exhibited at Fashion Connect included; All Seasons, Atlantis, Bornfree, Blue Mount, Braves & Babes, Dotted, Force, Forever Fashion, JCT, Laya, Missy, Pinnacle, Red Line, S S Cool Cotons, Sabhyata, Sachi, Scan Lingerie,

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May - June 2015

NEWS Spaaout, Shanbe Jeans from Sri Lanka, Teen Tees, Texin India, Thraya, Trufit and Urban Trail.

or global apparel and accessory brands, who too seek quality producers.

Fashion Connect is the one and only kind of platform in Southern India, which presents an opportunity to large-format fashion retail chains, apparel brands, ecommerce retailers, sourcing agents, showrooms, distributors and wholesalers to see and meet so many exhibitors showcasing a wide range of apparel products on a single platform.

Understanding this requirement, Fashion Connect has initiated a segment under the name of 'Contract Manufacturing', whereby contract apparel producers with spare capacities will offer their services to large format stores and brands alike at Fashion Connect.

The Fashion Connect Show was particularly of interest for wholesalers, apparel distributors and also retailers who are constantly on the lookout for new brands to offer stylish fashion apparel and accessories to their customers. Ecommerce retail is becoming the fastest growing fashion distribution channel, who too are also constantly on the lookout for labels and brands to sell on their websites. Fashion Connect can prove to be a good destination for these online retailers to get many more brands onboard their marketplaces. Large format store chains too are always looking for quality manufacturers of apparel and accessories for their private labels, which is also the case with Indian

Exhibitors and visitors will also be able to watch models walking through the alleys and foyers of the show during different times of the day showcasing menswear, womenswear and kidswear in all kinds of casuals, formals, ethnic dresses, etc. A 'Theme Area' will also be set up students from a reputed fashion institute, which will showcase various fashion themes. A panel discussion on emergence of ecommerce as a disruptor to organised retail is also on the cards. For more information please contact, Arun Rao Taurus Communications Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 E-mail: arun@tauruscomm.net

Alok Industries appoints Surinder Kumar Bhoan as Chairman

Mr. Bhoan has served as the Managing Director of Nakoda Green Power Limited and was responsible for financing and implementing large wind energy projects during 2007 to 2014. He also has a decade plus experience in textile industry in operations and research. He provided strategic and financial advice to several companies. Mr. Bhoan served as independent director on the board of several private & public companies including WelspunSyntex Ltd., S. Kumar Ltd., Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd., Kores India Ltd., GrabalAlokImpex Ltd., Nakoda Ltd., etc. Mr. Bhoan has diversified experience as a Promotor DirecMay - June 2015

tor, CEO, Independent Director and Nominee Director in a large number of companies. He gained his vast experience while working at the below mentioned companies. ◆

Various capacities in Birla Cotton Spinning & Weaving Mills, Delhi ◆ R&D Manager in Madan Industries Ltd., Meerut, UP ◆ Senior Textile Technologist in Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) ◆ Various capacities in Industrial Finance Corporation of India (IFCI) ◆ Promoter Director of Super Sizing Textiles Pvt. Ltd. ◆ Promoter Director (Whole Time Director) of Bliss Commercial Pvt. Ltd. ◆ Managing Director of Nakoda Financial Services Pvt. Ltd. ◆ Managing Director of Nakoda Green Power Ltd. (NGPL) ◆ Since 2014, Managing Director of Axilus Advisors Pvt. Ltd. Now Mr. S.K. Bhoan has been appointed by Alok Industries as a Non-Executive Chairman on the Board with effect from June 30, 2015 for a period of 5 years. The Textile Association (India),heartily congratulates Mr.Bhoan for scaling new height and wish him all the best for his future endeavors. 41

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. S.K. Bhoan is B. Tech from The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences, Bhiwani, Haryana. Mr. Bhoan has over 44 years of rich experience in Textile Industry, development Banking in project finance, credit appraisal, debt restructuring and corporate finance. He has extensive 19 years of senior leadership experience at IFCI Ltd. InMr. Surinder Kumar Bhoan cluding 5 years as General Manager in Mumbai, where he handled diverse portfolios across several industry sectors.

NEWS

First International GOTS Conference Highly Successful Event congregated whole organic textile supply chain under one roof and forged new partnerships for long term success. The flagship event by GOTS in Mumbai, India on 22nd May, 2015 was attended by more than 250 delegates from 12 countries including international Brands & Retailers, Indian brands and exporters from the Indian subcontinent, Buying Agents, Manufacturers of Textiles and Additives (dyes, chemicals, enzymes), Certification Bodies, Testing Laboratories, Trade Associations, NGOs, Academics, Media, Consultants, etc. The theme of the conference was -Strong Partnerships for Success. The congregation initiated new partnerships and valuable discussions. India is the country with the highest number of GOTS certified facilities worldwide. Today, out of the more than 3,600 facilities GOTS certified worldwide, more than 1,300 are in this country. The '1st International GOTS Conference' was organized by GOTS in The Lalit, Sahar, Mumbai, India on 22nd May 2015.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In the inaugural session, Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Managing Director, expressed his happiness on the DGFT notification in first week of May 2015 explicitly excluding organic textiles from the new procedures for export of organic product and also appreciated DGFT and Ministry of Commerce, Govt of India for this industry friendly move. Sharing his dream of a New Concept of Quality, he said, "If ecological civilization and thus sustainable production has to become main stream, a fundamental change of the concept of good product quality is necessary. The perception of good quality must be transformed into a holistic one, where a product not produced in a sustainable way, is considered bad quality even if it is fashionable, fitting, and colourful. Its sustainable production must become part of the product identity". Key Note Address was given by Conference Coordinator Sumit Gupta. He spoke about the growth of GOTS in India and Bangladesh. Speaking about the theme of the conference, he opined that sustainability is a complex concept and therefore the whole supply chain has to work in a strong partnership to achieve this goal. Trust and long term commitment is required form both buyers and suppliers. Gupta concluded his address by saying that only together we are strong. Session 1 "Storytelling: Brands' and Retailers' Business Case for Sustainability through GOTS" was moderated by Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director. In her input presentation she discussed 'The 42

Business Case for Sustainability' and linked Sustainability based textile standards to competitive strategies using the example of GOTS. She stressed that brands should label GOTS on their products instead of using self-claims. Dr. Ulrich Hofmann, Brands Fashion GmbH, Germany, Speaking about the expectations from GOTS, he said that there should be improved traceability of supply chain starting with organic cotton farming and the need to increase organic cotton supply. Shishir Goenka, Fusion Clothing Co., India in his presentation spoke about the journey of FCC with GOTS and the benefits that accrued to them like increased work environment safety, increased workers morale, improvement in company's image. Charline Ducas, C&A Europe, connected with the audience through a pre-recorded presentation that described the journey and commitment of C&A towards eco-friendly sustainable production of garments. Ducas also spoke about C&A's recently launched baby line with GOTS Label in retail. Session 2 was titled "Going for GOTS" and was moderated by Marcus Bruegel, GOTS Technical Director. Dr. Binay Kumar Choudhury, General Manager, Control Union Inspections and Certifications India Pvt Ltd and Member of GOTS Certifiers' Council, gave the first presentation on 'Audit Checklist and Methods: Ecological and Social Compliance'. He spoke about how an audit checklist is prepared and methods of auditing, the challenges and opportunities that auditing faces today and the need for ecological and social auditing. Rahul Bhajekar, Technical Committee, GOTS and General Manager, Hermes Eco Laboratories, India next spoke about 'Risk Management in Chemical Use and Testing'. He gave details about technical requirements in GOTS, testing procedures, chemical parameters considered in assessment and testing of dyes and chemicals. Marcus Bruegel made a presentation on 'Labelling Organic Textiles- Legal Conditions and GOTS Requirements'. He gave details about the legal basis existing in the EU, USA and in India on the labelling of 'organic fibres and textiles'. He then spoke about the applicable certifications to enable "organic product" claims for textiles. Session 3 was a panel discussion on 'Sustainability Standards: National or International? -The Role of International Voluntary Sustainability Standards in Relation to National Statutory Compulsory May - June 2015

NEWS Sustainability Standards'. This panel was moderated by Arvind Sinha, Business Advisors Group, India. The participating Panel Members were Mathieu Lamolle, International Trade Centre (ITC), Switzerland (via video message presentation), Herbert Ladwig, GOTS, Germany, Prabha Nagarajan, Textile Exchange, India, and Siddhartha Rajagopal, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), India.

ning Mills (P) Ltd, India (spinning, weaving, knitting), Dr. Dileep Wakankar, Archroma India Pvt Ltd, India (dyes and chemicals); GP Kanchi, Mandhana Industries Pvt Ltd, India (wet processing), Dr. BD Ginde, Texan Laboratories Pvt Ltd, India (laboratory/ testing), Ehsanul Karim Kaiser, Esquire Group (Textile Division), Bangladesh (garmenting) and Vincent Duret, Ecocert Greenlife SAS, France (certification body).

Opening remarks by Sinha were followed by the video message by Lamolle. He said, "Development of national statutory standards in addition to the existing international sustainability standards could easily create obstacles to trade. International standards do encompass a global perspective and are developed in the view of making international supply chains more efficient". Ladwig opined that standards should be voluntary; however the governments can adopt and enforce private standards, as USDA has set an example by formally accepting GOTS for sale of textiles labelled as organic via its policy memorandum dated May 2011". Prabha suggested that standards offer easy harmonization and therefore decrease cost of goods by reducing burden of multiple compliances. She further stressed on credibility of both voluntary and statutory standards. Siddhartha raised some strategic questions to the elite group in his turn, like legitimizing private mode of governance in areas of public interest. He also questioned if state system procedures were heavy and private governing procedures lighter.

Nimkar stressed that sustainability is now a necessity and also enlightened about benefits for textile industry to change over from conventional to organic. All three pillars of sustainability, namely economic, social and environmental were discussed at length. Each panelist shared his views on price premium of sustainable textiles from his field, Child labour, worker safety; Training & awareness were discussed, with focus on enhanced fire safety guidelines in GOTS Version 4.0 as well as issues related to toxicity and harmful substances in supply chain, especially in dyes and chemicals. Not rather surprising but always worth to mention that again it became very clear that sustainability is a necessity, especially to change over from conventional to organic. Furthermore the price premium of sustainable textiles can hardly be argued away but the emphasis must be on the additional value and benefit for sellers and buyers.

The final session 4 was a Panel Discussion on 'Supply Chain: Challenges and Opportunities with GOTS'. Session moderator Ullhas Nimkar, NimkarTek Technical Services Pvt Ltd, drove the discussions forward with his insightful questions for the panelists, coming from all areas of the textile chain including laboratory and certifiers. The Panelists were Amit Shah, Spectrum International Pvt Ltd, India (representing farming & ginning), A Narayanasamy, Armstrong Spin-

The event got fabulous feedback from the attendees for quality of sessions, networking opportunities and eminence of delegates. Please find quotes with feedback on our website. For more details contact : Sumit Gupta/ Claudia Kersten GOTS Representative in India & Bangladesh/ GOTS Marketing Director +91 9892270594 gupta@global-standard.org

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

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Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

A-12

Alpenol

A-10

Reliance Industries Ltd.

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Birla Cellulose

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Rieter India Ltd.

A-7

India ITME

A-4

Rieter India Ltd. Components

A-9

INDIATEX 2016

A-2

Saurer Schlafhorst

A-11

ITMACH Exhibition

A-6

Super Tex Industries

A-3

Lakshmi Machine Works

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Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd.

A-8

Lenzing AG - India Branch

A-1

Unitech Techmech

Cover 4

May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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NEWS

DKTE

Inauguration of Rieter Test & Training Centre at DKTE, Ichalkaranji

Mr. Prasanta-Kumar Deka at the inauguration of the Rieter Test & Training Centre

On 6 April 2015, the inauguration ceremony of the Rieter Test & Training Centre was held at the DKTE Society's Textile and Engineering Institute in Ichalkaranji, India. The Test & Training Centre has been developed in an exclusive cooperation with DKTE and highlights the latest Rieter J 20 air-jet spinning machine. At this event, the coveted the "Rieter Award 2014" was also handed over to Mr. Akshay Jakhotya. He was honoured for his outstanding diploma thesis, which he wrote during his academic studies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Briefing the technical features of J 20 air-jet spinning machine

J 20 Air-jet Spinning Machine at DKTE Mr. Prasanta-Kumar Deka, Vice President Sales & Marketing, Rieter India Private Ltd., inaugurated the centre. This occasion was attended by Mr. Kalappa Awade, former Member of Parliament, Mr. Prakash Awade, Mr. P. V. Kadole, the DKTE Management and other eminent guests from Rieter India. In addition, many distinguished personalities from industry as well as policy-makers and academics were present at the event. 44

In the Rieter Test & Training Centre, joint research projects on various spinning technologies will be carried out and adapted to the prevailing conditions in the Indian spinning mills. Both Rieter and DKTE value this cooperation and will combine their strengths to advance the development of these technologies in India. The Centre will serve as a platform for research and for the training of specialists for the Indian spinning mills as well as imparting technical competence to the students in the course of their academic education.

Mr. Prasanta-Kumar Deka handing over the Rieter Award trophy to Mr. Akshay Jakhotya

Handover of the Rieter Award 2014 Rieter created the "Rieter Award" to support textile training and to attract talented youngsters. Furthermore the Award aims at creating a global network between students, universities, institutes and Rieter. This year, in India the coveted Award was handed over to Mr. Akshay Jakhotya, student at the DKTE Institute, by Mr. Prasanta-Kumar Deka. The winner was rewarded with the Award trophy, a Swiss mountain crystal, and received the "Rieter Award" certificate. The event garnered a huge response from students of the Institute and Rieter's know-how on technological advancements in the spinning industry is highly regarded. For more information, please contact: Edda Walraf Marketing Business Group RMS Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 CH - 8406 Winterthur T +41 52 208 82 24 +41 52 208 80 61 E-mail: edda.walraf@who-needs-spam.rieter.com May - June 2015

NEWS

Lenzing FR® - the fiber of protection in all layers

Each layer of Lenzing FR® offers protection and comfort. The protective fiber, created on a cellulosebasis, protects firefighters from heat stress as a result of heat accumulation, one of the most frequentreasons for failures in emergency service deployment. With the conception of different layers offabric, Lenzing FR® can offer a tailor-made concept based on the respective application.LenzingFR® can develop its advantages to perfection in fiber blends with synthetics in particular. , Due to itsnaturalness, the Lenzing FR® fiber guarantees the very best moisture absorption and breathingproperties through all of the layers in which it is used. In particular, gear for the head and hands,which perspire profusely, require better sweat transportation which is guaranteed with Lenzing FR®. More performance can save lives

prevented. In physiological tests,Lenzing FR® was able to demonstrate that the fiber works most effectively in layers. The best valuesare obtained when the test person is wearing materials which are both flame-retardant andabsorptive. The breathing properties of Lenzing FR® lead to a lower body temperature and the firefighter has a higher performance profile as a result. The "added" performance amounts to 16 Watts.In practice this means running for one minute longer. This one minute can save lives. In use around the world Lenzing FR® is available in a variety of colors for different emergency forces and is thus used extensively in international protective clothing. The fiber is particularly appreciated in countries with a very hot climate. Optimum moisture regulation is a matter of survival there.

Lenzing FR®, a complete solution for firefighter clothing.

Lenzing FR® - the fiber with integrated flame protection The flame-retardant fiber, Lenzing FR®, is known all over the world as a skin-friendly protective fiber.It is used in numerous working areas as the optimum protection against sources of heat. Unique heatinsulation properties combined with permanent flame retardancy make Lenzing FR® the "HeatProtection Fiber". Due to the naturalness of Lenzing FR®, which is made of wood, it provides goodmoisture management which reduces the risk of deadly heat stroke. TENCEL® and Lenzing Modal® are registered trademarks of the Lenzing group.

Tests confirm the effectiveness of Lenzing FR®. Compared to commonly use protective clothing,protective clothing with Lenzing FR® shows that second and third degree burns can be reduced byup to 30%. In particular the cracking of fabrics is reduced or even May - June 2015

For more information please contact: Christina Kreuzwieser, MBA Head of Global Marketing Communication Telephone: +43 (0) 7672 701-2331 E-Mail: press@lenzing.com Website: www.lenzing.com 45

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Lenzing FR® fiber, which is based on cellulose, is on show at Interschutz, the largest international venue for experts in fire protection and the emergency services, as a completesolution for applications in firefighter protective clothing.

NEWS

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment at the Achema in Frankfurt, Germany Spotlight on polycondensation systems and precision metering pumps At this year's Achema, which took place between June 15 and 19, 2015 in Frankfurt, Germany, OerlikonBarmag is putting the information spotlight both on precision meteringpumps for the chemical industry and polycondensation systems (Hall 8, Stand E4). It all starts with polycondensation The basis for high-quality yarn is homogeneous melt. Producing precisely this is the task of the highend Oerlikon Barmag polycondensation systems for fibergrade and bottle-grade polyester melt andgranulate.The benefits of operating an in-house polycondensation system are plain for the yarn manufacturer tosee: in addition to being independent of other granulate manufacturers, short-term price fluctuationswithin theraw materials market and the influence on the quality of the raw material; it is above all theadded value that is most likely to result in higher profits.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Oerlikon Barmag offers all process steps from a single source - from supplying the terephthalic acid,the polycondensation system and the spinning plant all the way through to the texturing equipment.Optimum coordination of the individual production steps and system parts is guaranteed as is the superlativeproductquality and the tremendous efficiency of the production - from the melt to yarn. Pumps for all cases Oerlikon Barmag pumps are deployed in numerous challenging processes within the chemical, plastics,dyes and lacquers industries and in PUR applications. The requirements for challenging processes in the chemical industry are extremely high. One the biggest challenges is metering poorly-lubricating media. With the GM and GA ranges and the corresponding components, Oerlikon Barmag supplies veritable allrounders for numerous applications. The high-speed pump in particular fulfills the expectationsof the chemical industry with its sealed product space.

High-speed metering pump meters poorly-lubricating media The new Oerlikon Barmag high-speed metering pump has been especially developed for meteringpoorly-lubricating media. "The high-speed pump is particularly advantageous in the chemical industry,which conveys aggressive acids", reports Thorsten Wagener, the salesman responsible for industrialand chemical application pumps at Oerlikon Barmag. The main advantage of the pump is the sealed product space. The space within the pump that comesinto contact with the media is therefore limited to the area around the gears. The external, ball-bearingsupport points in the high-speed pump are externally lubricated, hence ensuring that the product to bemetered is not damaged as a result of poor lubrication. This ensures that the pump is extremely durable. Furthermore, the enlarged speed range (30 - 500 rpm) permits a large application range for which severalpumps of varying sizes have had to be used to date. This cuts back on conversion times, whilesimultaneously reducing spare parts inventories. With its low weight of 1.4 kg, the compact pump(Ă¸65mm) promises both considerable space savings and less wear on the machine. GM range under the most challenging conditions The pumps in the GM and GA series provide precision metering with low-pulsation feeding of the conveying medium. The multi-stage GM pump conveys low-viscosity media (i.e. 250 bar, 100 mPas) even under high pressure and in the most challenging conditions. The square design from the proven GMseries is the standard pump for many metering tasks. The development of the multi-stage pump expandsthe applications range for the GM series considerably. The round 2-stage GM pump has been developedespecially for use in highpressure technology. It masters the particular challenge of conveying smallthroughputs with low viscosities. The pumps is perfect for 0.05 through 20 cmÂł/rev feed sizes and isexcellently suited for use in high-pressure machines for PUR molded parts, foam slab stock, refrigerationunit insulations and sandwich panels, for example.

May - June 2015

NEWS GA range for challenging conveying Manufacturing companies are constantly facing the challenge of making their products and processesmore efficient. Oerlikon Barmag has supplemented the triedand-tested GM range with the GA series,developed especially for the challenging conveying of high-viscosity media. The GA series pumps areavailable for conveying volumes of between 1.25 - 30 cmÂł/rev (0.6144 l/h). They have been designedfor pressures of up to 200 bar, for viscosities of up to 1,500 Pas as well as for temperatures of up tomax. 225Â°C. With this range of pumps, Oerlikon Barmag offers its customers tailor-made solutions formany technical processes in which high-precision and even metering is of paramount importance.

from drums and other large containers and for pressures of up to 250 bar. Its special featuresnot only include the fact that it removes high-viscosity materials from the drum, but that it alsometers the medium directly without any additional interim stops.

The drum pump - conveying and metering using a single unit With the drum pump, the Oerlikon Barmag pump specialists have created a pump designed specificallyfor conveying and metering high-viscosity materials such as adhesives, silicones and other high-viscositymaterials

For further information please contact, AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Marketing & Corporate Communications Tel. +49 2191 67-2331 Fax +49 2191 67-1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Gear pump and drum follower plate are aligned to each other so that the plate can effortlessly reach thebottom of the container, hence leaving a very low residue of < 1%. "This has a positive impact on boththe material costs and the production process", sums up Thorsten Wagener. The metering, which todate has been carried out in two steps requiring scoop-piston and metering pumps, can now be mergedin into a single unit with the drum pump.

Opening ceremony of the Iranian French seminar in Tehran

On June 6, 2015, at the opening ceremony of the Iranian French seminar in Tehran, Mr. RAEISZADEH, the General Manager of the Association of Iranian Textile Companies emphasized that during the rainy days, the French machinery manufacturers have successfully done their best to support their Iranian customers who, in return, will not forget their friends when sunny days come back.

The facts are that the French manufacturers since the sanctions have been implemented have maintained sales, after sales support and have supplied the spare parts needed. Several companies have even opened warehouses to maintain such parts and supply them very quickly.The consequence is that all the production lines supplied by the French machinery manufacturers have been running smoothly during these difficult times. This was a difficult task because, even if the textile machines were not included in the embargo, multiple barriers appeared one of the most constraining was to organize the financial transfers. The French delegation hopes that the European banks will, within their legal obligations, be less overcautious and do not erect their own barriers.

UCMTF/Textile Association of IRAN - Signing the MoU May - June 2015

The delegation of the French Textile Machinery Manufacturers was led by their Vice-President International, Mr. GUINET and their Secretary General, Mrs. CHOLET. Both and Mr. AMELINE, the President, had been part of the French MEDEF delegation which, in February 2014, included 120 French entrepreneurs, the first international delegation to go to IRAN to reestablish contacts with the Iranian business community and 47

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Warm welcome for the French machinery manufacturers by their Iranian textile customers "We will not forget the friends who were there during the rainy days"

NEWS meet the Iranian associations.The meetings with the Iranian textile industrialists led to the decision to organize technical seminars in IRAN (as it was done already three times prior to the sanctions) as soon as it will appear that normal business relationship could resume.

to stick to this strategy, to differentiate from mass products, is the right choice. Therefore the Iranian textile industrialists have to invest in state of the art technologies, they are ready to do it and, in fact, they have already very precise plans. Thanks to the help of the Iranian textile association and the interested Iranian Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the French participants have shown their offers this June 2015 not in TEHRAN only but in many other production centers of the country: KASHAN, ISPAHAN and YAZD.

UCMTF delegation in KASHAN

UCMTF Delegation in ISPAHAN

The French machinery manufacturers are now strongly hoping this time will come soon and that IRAN will come back on the textile international scene. Iran has been well known for its high standard products in textiles and carpet manufacturing and they believe that

The four seminars gathered a very large audience in the respective four cities. The industrialists were very interested by the machines and services presented by NSC SCHLUMBERGER (long fiber spinning lines), LAROCHE (nonwovens and recycling), SUPERBA (heat setting processes for the carpet industry), AESA (air engineering of textile plants), STĂ&#x201E;UBLI (high speed weaving technologies), DOLLFUS & MULLER (finishing endless felts and conveyor belts) and ROLLIN-TRELLEBORG (rubber felts for compressive shrinking). New technologies, after sales services and spare parts availability were the main topics of the seminars, B to B meetings in parallel with the seminars and special individual contacts in other cities of the country after the seminars. Thanks to the contacts established to organize these seminars a Memorandum of Understanding was signed between the two organizations to strengthen their ties on a long term basis.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Overall Shipments of New Textile Machinery Slightly Down in 2014 Decline in Short-staple and Draw-Texturing Spindles; Increase in Flat Knitting Machines Shipments in most of the textile machinery segments experienced declines in 2014. Deliveries of new shortstaple spindles fell by 15% from 2013 to 2014. Shipped long-staple spindles and open-end rotors increased by 70% and 2.6% respectively. The number of shipped draw-texturing spindles grew by close to 12%. Shuttleless looms and new large circular knitting machines also dropped by 14% and 22% year-on-year. In contrast, shipments of flat-knitting machines rose by 31%. 48

These are the main results of the 37th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) just released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). The report covers six segments of textile machinery, namely spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, large circular knitting, flat knitting and finishing machinery. The 2014 survey has been compiled in cooperation with some 110 textile machinery manufacturers after 112 in 2013, representing a comprehensive measure of world production.

May - June 2015

NEWS Spinning Machinery

Texturing Machinery

Shipments of new short-staple spindles fell by 15% in 2014 year-on-year and more than reversed the increase of 10% in 2013. The level of short staple spindles declined to 9.8 million spindles, the lowest level since 2009 and also lower than the ten-year-average of 10.9 million. Most of the new short staple sindles (91%) were shipped to Asia, whereby shipments fell by nearly 17% year-on-year. Thereby China, the world's largest investor of short-staple spindles, experienced a decline of nearly 29%. Four of the five largest investors for short-staple spindles originate from Asia.

Global shipments of single heater draw-texturing spindles (mainly used for polyamide filaments) increased by 76% from 2,600 in 2013 to 4,576 in 2014. With nearly 57% Asia is the region where most of the single heater draw-texturing spindles were shipped to followed by Western Europe with 20% and South Amercia with close to 15%.

Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles increased by 70% from 80,800 in 2013 to 137,650 in 2014. That is the strongest increase since 2012. The majority of long-staple spindles (69%) were shipped to Europe. Thereby, shipments to Turkey rose to 67,000 which is equivalent to a share of 49% of global shipments. Within Europe Belarus and Italy came second and third with shipments numbering 21,216 and 10,584 spindles. In 2014, shipments to Asia increased marginally by 0.2% to 29,000 spindles. While North and South America did not receive any shipments of long-staple spindles, shipments to Africa amounted to 432. Shipments of open-end rotors improved moderately in 2014 by 2.6% after they declined in the previous two years. The number of shipments reached 454,720, the highest level since 2011 and well above the long-term average of 402,669. Nearly 67% of worldwide shipments of open-end rotors were destined for Asia though the pace is declining. Shipments to Asia fell by 13% after declines of 13.9% and 11.9% in 2013 and 2012 respectively. Also, in South America shipments declined (-9.3%). In contrast, shipments to Europe and, especially, North America saw strong increases of nearly 27% and 402% respectively. May - June 2015

However, the pace of decline moderated somewhat compared to 2013 when shipments fell by nearly 30%. Asia's share of worldwide shipments amounted to close to 88%. Thereby, China remained the largest investor accounting for 60% of global shipments. Weaving Machinery

In 2014, worldwide shipments of shuttle-less looms fell by 14% to 71,667 units, the third decline in a row. Thereby, shipments of water-jet shuttle-less looms dropped by 30% to 24,220, the third fall since 2012. Shipments of air-jet looms also declined though this was the first fall after four years of increases. The number of shipped air jet looms contracted by 19% to 49

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Including China these are India, Viet Nam and Indonesia. Shipments to Turkey, the fourth largest investor, increased by 5% in 2014, the third consequetive increase.

In the segment of double heater draw-texturing spindles (mainly used for polyester filaments) the downward trend continued and global shipments fell by 12% on an annual basis to 443,352.

NEWS 20,176 in 2014. In contrast, deliveries of rapier/projectile looms shipments rose by 14% from 23,828 in 2013 to 27,271 in 2014, the highest level since 2006. As in previous years the main destination of shuttleless looms was Asia amounting to a share of 97% of worldwide deliveries. Thereby, the percentage of the three subcategories is relatively even.Water-jet looms measure 36% of shipments to Asia, 35% are rapier/projectile looms and 29% are air-jet looms. In Europe and North America 73% and 54% of shipments are for rapier/projectile looms, while the share of water-jet looms is only 7% and 11% respectively. Circular & Flat Knitting Machinery

Global shipments of large circular knitting machines fell by 22% from 36,575 in 2013 to 28,502 in 2014, the lowest level since 2009. Also for this category Asia is the world's leading investor. Nearly 88% of all circular knitting machines are shipped to Asia and with a share of 60% (close to 17,000 shipments) of worldwide deliveries China is the single largest investor. India and Turkey rank second and third with 2,464 (8.6%) and 1,325 units (4.6%) respectively. 2014 was a good year for the segment of electronic flat knitting machines as global shipments grew by 31% to 46,100 machines. This was the first increase since 2011. Not surprisingly, Asia received the highest share of shipments. Over 85% of all deliveries went to Asia with China being the largest investor with a share of 42% equivalent to over 19,000 units. Including China, four of the five largest investors for flat knitting machines are Asian countries. Second and third are Bangladesh (11,312 units) and Viet Nam (1,956). Turkey ranks fourth with 1,879 machines and India fifth with 1,840 units. Finishing Machinery The 2014 edition of ITMF's International Textile Machinery Shipments Statistics included for the nineth time also data on finishing machinery (wovens and knits continuous machinery).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Revamp TAI Website www.textileassociationindia.org The Textile Association (India) has launched their revamped website www.textileassociationindia.org with significant progress and increased its reach with complete Advance Content Management System (CMS), with the special focus on TAI activities and its mega events including various press releases, quick links, up-dated information about Indian Textile industry, Textile Dictionary, Expert Talks, e-Journal and much more.

strengthening marketing base in India and abroad through advertisementsto boot the business opportunities across the globe. The revamp website has been done in order to make the website more dynamic and made responsive friendly so that it can access in smartphone, i-phone, i-Pads, tablets etc.

From design to content, the entire website has been revamped with multiple language translate to make it more user-friendly and interactive with rich features. TAI has moved a step ahead and enable advertising opportunities on website banners along with several informative wings which is having satisfactory visitors traffic more than 16,000 page views per month from India and abroad among industry leaders, textile associations, cotton and textile traders, equipment manufacturers, experts and Government officials. Website is an effective tool for 50

May - June 2015

NEWS

The innovation philosophy of Schlafhorst E³ - triple added value for textile companies

E³ is being followed up by Schlafhorst in a consistent manner. In developing its products and services, themanufacturer of spinning and winding machines is gearing itself to the relevant targets of the spinning mills:Energy, Economy, and Ergonomics. The customer's yarn production should consume less energy, generate ahigher economic return and make fewer demands on operators. E³ on the Autocoro 8: double-digit cost reductions and productivity increases Innovative technologies are pivotal to E³. The revolutionary single-drive technology of the Autocoro 8 is anexample of this. The Autocoro 8 opened up new horizons for the rotor spinning mill with this innovation,smashing the barriers imposed by central belt drives and revolutionising rotor spinning.The single drive is of supreme importance for energy efficiency. The rotor drive accounts for half of theenergy consumed by conventional rotor spinning machines. As rotor speeds increase, energy consumptiongoes through the roof on belt-driven machines. Mills that increase their productivity by increasing the speedon centrally driven rotor spinning machines are risking the economic efficiency of their production, and onlythe Autocoro 8 liberated spinning mills from this destructive predicament.

Texttreasure Sometimes it is better to lose and do the right thing than to win and do the wrong thing. - Tony Blair May - June 2015

With E³ Schlafhorst is helping spinning mills to utilise the potential of theinnovative single-drive technologies on the Autocoro 8 to the full

The energy advantage: the single drive as the key to groundbreaking energy efficiency The Autocoro 8 with its revolutionary single-drive technology and new energy-optimised motors uses 20%less energy than the most energy-efficient conventional belt machine at the same rotor speed. The saving iseven greater at high rotor speeds. This has made double-digit cost reductions possible, thus economies on ascale that hasn't been seen in the industry for years. The specific energy requirement per kilogram of yarn,e.g. for a weaving yarn of a count of Ne 20 (Nm 34) spun at a rotor speed of 160,000 rpm, is less than 1 kWhon the Autocoro 8. Since the saving is greater as the speed increases, this opens up new scope forcompanies to increase productivity and economy at the same time. It is simply a textile-technological matterof what speed the Autocoro 8 operates at. The economy advantage: maximum efficiency ratings and more profitable packages The Autocoro 8 offers other economic successes with innovative operating options such as Seamless Lo tChange and Pilot Spin, which eliminate idle running when changing lots and winding sample packages.Integrated piecing at the spinning position using Syncro Piecing reduces waiting times and increasesmachine efficiency. Higher take-up speeds or spinning settings with more frequent piecing cycles thusbecome more economically viable. Digi Winding packs at least 10% more yarn onto each package with the same package diameter, normally signifying better machine utilisation and also 10% less packaging, 51

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

E³ is the name of the new brand for Saurer's aggressive innovation philosophy. It was unveiled forthe first time at ITMA ASIA 2014 and offers textile manufacturers triple added value. E³ stands for Energy, Economy and Ergonomics and outlines a clear goal: the innovative products of Saurer increase the production and profitability of textile companies. The triple added value of Saurer products is an integral element of Saurer's innovation philosophy. E³ also helps the customers of Schlafhorst to improve their competitiveness, increase sales and profit and capture new, lucrative market share.

NEWS 10%lower shipping costs and 10% fewer logistical staff in the spinning mill.With double-digit productivity increases and cost reductions, the Autocoro 8 substantially increases theprofitability of rotor spinning at a stroke. The competitiveness of Autocoro spinning mills is increased.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The ergonomic advantage: lean maintenance and lean management On an automatic rotor spinning machine, ergonomics means lean management and lean operations aboveall. The symbol display at each individual spinning position communicates directly with the operators andaccurately signals where and how they must intervene if a malfunction occurs. This saves time and the needto walk down to the central operating unit at the machine head. The Autocoro 8 also executes smooth lotchanges automatically without any manual intervention. When spinning several lots at once, the Autocoro 8even detects incorrectly inserted tubes autonomously, so that human operating errors can be detected andcorrected promptly. The single spinning unit technology also cuts the amount of cleaning and servicing required, as the spinning positions on the Autocoro 8 can be serviced individually section by section without having to shut down theentire machine. Instead of having to make entire cleaning brigades available on a one-off basis to clean andservice a complete machine, spinning mills can adapt their processes to lean maintenance, which saves upto 60% of the servicing effort. A single spinning unit can also be dismantled easily for servicing andoverhauled conveniently and quickly in the workshop without bringing the entire machine production to ahalt. New servicing processes without production stoppages can be implemented.The intelligent flexibility of the Autocoro 8 cuts the planning outlay for operating sequences considerably,making operational management as a whole more ergonomic. This relieves the load on managers andfacilitates new organisational structures. E³ as a life cycle service in customer support

The E³ innovation philosophy not only determines the development of machines, but also influences how the Schlafhorst Customer Support function is perceived. "E³ is a life cycle service," says Thomas Arter, Head of Customer Support. "This is because our innovative technologies open up a steady stream of new opportunities for increasing output and economic efficiency during their life cycle. We are thus supporting ourcustomers in using their Autocoro 8 in a more energy-efficient and productive manner and with the minimumof personnel in daily operation. We provide a wide range of services, extending from simple tips onmaintenance via the provision of Modernisation Kits to targeted textile-technological consultancy services."Thus the rotor speed of the Autocoro 8 can often be increased without affecting the yarn quality or efficiencyrating of the machine. Thanks to single-drive technology, many operating parameters can be tuned toincreased efficiency. The ratio of weight to volume can be optimised in the package build, resulting insignificant savings on logistics costs. Spinning mills can also specifically meet their customers' expectationsin respect of quality and efficiency in downstream textile process stages with the package design."Many customers can capitalise still further on the potential of the Autocoro 8," says Thomas Arter. "With ourE³ offensive we are helping customers to exploit our innovative technologies to the full. And this doesn't justapply to our Autocoro customers. E³: Energy, Economy, and Ergonomics - this promise applies to all productlines." For more information please contact, Waltraud Jansen Expert Communication Rotor Spinning Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60 52531 Übach-Palenberg Germany T + 49 2451 905 2194 waltraud.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Texttreasure E3 - TRIPLE ADDED VALUE. Triple added value for the Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machine fromSchlafhorst 52

People who think they know everything are a great annoyance to those of us who do. - Isaac Asimov May - June 2015

NEWS

SSM Spring 2015 exhibition review

SSM Sch채rerSchweiterMettler AG participated at the following exhibitions in spring 2015: Textile Asia, Pakistan Indo InterTex, Indonesia Techtextil, Germany

28 - 30 March Supporting agent AHS Textile 23 - 25 April Supporting agent PT DKSH Indonesia 04 - 07 May Supporting agent ELMATEX

SSM would like to thank their representatives for their efforts before and during the exhibitions, helping to make the shows successfully. Review over all: SSM shared the booth with our representatives and other wellknown European suppliers. During the show, SSM could meet and discuss with many existing customers and also new, potential customers, showing interest in their products.

New Book Published "Textiles and Environment" Written by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra

ISBN: 9789380308562 Pages: 207 Pub Date: April 2015 Price: Rs. 1995.00 May - June 2015

Especially the brand new SSM DURO-TW, showed at Techtextil in Frankfurt, gained great attention. The DURO-TW precision winder for all technical yarns up to 50'000 dtex offers a new level of flexibility and winding quality in one machine; thereby ensuring the fulfilment of all customer requirements. For assembly winding, the DURO-TD allows the plying of multiple ends/yarns, independent of them being of the same type or completely different. The DURO-TD is also available with optional intermingling for single and multiple yarns. Besides of the new introduction in the area of Dye Packages / Rewinding machines, SSM could provide solutions in Air Texturing, False Twist Texturing (SSM GIUDICI), Air Covering, Draw Winding, Assembly Winding, Yarn Singeing, Parallel Winding and Sewing Thread Finish Winding. Thanks to all visitors: SSM would like to take this opportunity to thank everybody that visited their booth and looks forward to future partnerships and collaborations with them. For more information please contact, SSM Sch채rer Schweiter Mettler AG, Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland Phone: +41 44 718 33 11, Fax: +41 44 718 34 51, info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch Textiles and Environment has been written in accordance to the author's personal experience while he was working in big corporate companies as general manager of the dye house. Dyed yarn and fabrics were exported to various countries. Mainly the European buyers used to ask us for various new certifications by which the production people were confused. The author has put all the doubts into this book which will become handy for ever dyeing technician. He has tried to introduce new processes and technology having eco-friendly behaviour in a simplified manner. The chapters are devoted to sustainable aspects required for the industry. It will be helpful to the CEO, R & D, and textile industry persons. Place your order by sending email at wpi@woodheadpublishingindia.com, info@woodheadpublishingindia.com 011-23266107, 011-43612145 53

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SSM attended three exhibitions in spring: Textile Asia in Karachi, Pakistan; Indo InterTex in Jakarta, Indonesia and Techtextil in Frankfurt, Germany.

NEWS

Swiss Textile Machinery Group Elects Ernesto Maurer as New President This year, the Swiss textile machinery group will celebrate its 75th anniversary. This year, the Swiss textile machinery group will celebrate its 75th anniversary. Since 1940 the group supports its member companies-over the years many of them gained international market leadership. The planned activities for this year include participation in ITMA show in Milan. In addition workshops on "Innovation" and "Additive Manufacturing" will be organized.

L to R: Robert Reimann, Ernesto Maurer, Norbert Klapper, Urban Germann, Ralph von Arx

The Swiss textile machinery group within Swissmem elected a new president during their meeting held end of May. After the resignation of Peter Gnägi, who has been member of the board since 2002 and president since 2013, the members of the group elected Ernesto Maurer as his successor. The connoisseur of the international textile machinery industry has held various management positions in leading companies over the last years. Today, he is CEO of SSM Schaerer Schweiter Mettler AG in Horgen.

For more information please contact, Cornelia Buchwalder Ressortleiterin Fachgruppen Dipl. Ing. ETH/FH Swissmem Pfingstweidstrasse 102, Postfach 8037 Zürich T: +41 44 384 48 12 M: +41 79 744 42 37 c.buchwalder@swissmem.ch www.swissmem.ch

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Systematic quality management is a priority The USTER® AFIS PRO 2 is an early-warning system Uster, Switzerland, June 9, 2015 - Even when a spinning mill has adopted exemplary quality management structures, there is always a danger that the system may fail to reach its potential if those structures are not exploited fully. Busy mill operations may sometimes lead to proper quality disciplines being sidelined, for a variety of reasons: cost constraints, staff shortages or inadequate know-how, for example. This is not only a tragic breakdown in management control, but also a waste of the time and money invested in the quality systems. One reliable safeguard against such systemic failures is the USTER®AFIS PRO 2 fiber testing instrument, which can act as an early warning of individual quality defects and an indicator that the overall quality structures are not working.

Quality-conscious spinners are today generally wellversed in making use of valuable tools such as USTER®TESTER 5 for laboratory controls and USTER®QUANTUM 3 as the last-stage failsafe in the winding room. Most mills will have put in place a series of instrumental checks, enabling unacceptable May - June 2015

NEWS fault levels to be detected and rectified. Sometimes, though, these monitoring actions will actually highlight the need for cohesive structures throughout the mill, to establish systematic quality management - and ensure it is applied continuously as a priority strategy.

There is also bad news, however. The fact is that the problem should never have gone so far as the winding machine. From the USTER®TESTER 5 results, and based on his own knowledgeand experience;Zhang Qiang assumed that the quality problem started at carding, or even earlier during the bale laydown.

A typical scenario, in this case from a Chinese spinning mill, illustrates the point:A box of bobbins waits in the laboratory for testing. Zhang Qiang is the manager of an established spinning mill in Xingjiang province.He has recognized an unusual high quantity of bobbins being ejected at the winder. The Ne 34 cotton yarn obviously contains too many yarn faults compared with the settings from the USTER®TESTER 5. "Thanks to the 100% monitoring of the produced yarn using yarn clearers at winding, no off-quality yarn will be delivered to the customer," says the mill manager, pleased at this apparently satisfactory outcome.

This mill's systematic quality management starts at carding, testing the sliver on a weekly basis. "I know that the correlative results of the AFIS® will reveal that the problem could have been recognized already at this stage of the production process," says Zhang Qiang, before looking for the files. He was correct: the USTER®AFIS PRO 2 reports show a deviation of more than 7% for the short fiber values. The origin of the problem is now confirmed. And, of course, someone should have checked this report before the damage - a lot of wasted yarn - had the chance to occur. So, where does the blame lie? It's not easy to solve the problem of tight resources in a spinning mill. But setting the right priority on systematic quality management could help to get the most value from available resources. It's clear also that spinning mills would be well-advised to take AFIS® test results as a pre-indicator or early-warning system, prompting action before the yarn clearer has to provide the final, more costly, solution. "Our mill has well-structured processes for quality management implemented and could serve as a good example for many others," says Zhang Qiang "but the impact of a systematic quality management can only reach its full potential when it is put into practice as an absolute priority."

May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In detail, the data from the USTER®QUANTUM 3 clearers shows irregularities for thick places in classes C3, C4, D3 and D4 and indicates a high level of unacceptable thick place cuts, indicating changes compared to the measured fiber characteristics. The whole YARN BODYTM also appears to be wider than normal. Laboratory results from the USTER®TESTER 5 also show that the values of neps and thick places are outside of the ranges defined by the customer's yarn profile. These results prove that the USTER®QUANTUM 3 - the final step of the systematic quality management system - correctly saved the spinner from a potentially very costly claim. That is the (apparent) good news…

Media contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91 Fax +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com www.uster.com

NEWS

11th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles ICAHT-2015 - Conference Announcement Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster (OGTC) is organizing 11th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles on 31st October, 2015 at India Habitat Cente, New Delhi. Theme of the Conference is "Competitive Innovation" Come together as an industry and build hard infrastructure, soft infrastructure like linkages, predictability and research & development. India apparel industry has a hope of coming into the picture of preferred sourcing destination due to the changing scenario in China, Europe, US and Bangladesh.

are hindering the growth of this industry, the strength and weakness of the manufacturers in different region, globalization issues, resource and manpower scarcity, quality of the product, trade laws, adopting new techniques to improve productivity, managing global supply chain and finally changing apparel industry trends with ever-changing fashions. A cross-disciplinary event, the idea is to explore creativity and the creative process through the lenses of imagination and innovation and would discuss, Improve Efficiency, Cut Cost, Shorter Lead Time, Better understanding of customer value in present situation and Government help in forming policy to boost and motivate exports. The conference aims to provide an environment for academics, researchers and practitioners to exchange ideas and recent developments in the field of apparel manufacturing. The conference is also expected to foster networking, collaboration and joint effort among the conference participants to advance the theory and practice as well as to identify major trends in apparel manufacturing.

The global apparel manufacturing industry is expected to grow more than ever in times to come. According to an estimate, the global apparel industry will reach a value of US $ 854 billion by the end of 2015. The apparel manufacturers are now adopting new techniques to increase their trade. New business models and competitive strategies are used to enhance profits and growth.

The Convention will be a great opportunity for international trade fraternity to know the dual strengths that India can offer, not only as a great supplier base, but also as a fashion destination for international brand. Hear about and share state of the art experiences in global fashion marketing and supply chain management. Key Issues to be addressed in ICAJT 2015

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The conference is intended to cover all aspects of the apparel industry, including the problems of small-scale enterprises in the developing world, the barriers which 56

Environment: Carbon Foot Print Measurement in Garment Industry Direction: A clear sense of where the organization is heading and how it will get there that is meaningful to all employees Leadership: The extent to which leaders inspire action Culture: Shared benefits and quality of interaction within and across unit Accountability: The extent to which individuals understand what is expected of them, have authority to carry it out and take responsibility for delivering results. May - June 2015

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Coordination: Ability to evaluate organizational performance and risk and to add Opportunities when they arise. Capabilities: The presence of institutional skills and talent required to executive Strategy and create competitive advantage. Motivation: Presence of enthusiasm that drives employees to put in extraordinary Effort to deliver results. External: Quality of suppliers, partners and other external shareholders to drive value. Innovation: of new ideas and the ability of the organization to adopt and shape itself as needed. Responsible Fashion: Leading to Responsible Competitiveness. Technological Up gradation: Appropriate and Continuous up gradation and absorption.

Workshops- A Special Feature of ICAHT 1. It may not be out of place to mention that the concept of workshops and general interest presentations is a novel concept adopted by OGTC and has been found extremely beneficial to the industry in terms of specific skill up-gradation and creation of general awareness in the present times, which are re-

ally termed as knowledge economy. 2. On the sidelines of the conference there will be a Poster Presentation to encourage the research & postgraduate students a poster competition on the conference theme will be held where 3 best poster presentations will get cash reward. Delegate Fees: 1. (a) (b) (c) (d)

Members of OGTC Textile Association (I) Noida /Gurgaon/Apparel Export Cluster ATDC Faculty

Rs.3000/-

2. Others

Rs.5000/-

3. Indian Students through Institutes

Rs.2000/-

4. Foreign Delegates

US$.200/-

For further details if any contact: Conference Secretary Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster D-104, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi-110020, India Ph. (91)11- 41609550 E-mail:ogtc@ogtc.in, ogtc@airtelmail.in, Website: www.ogtc.in

The 3rd International Conference on Textile and Apparel - ICTA 2015

After profound success of first two conferences of International Conference on Textile and Apparel (ICTA), The Textile Institute Bangladesh Section (TIBS) joins hand with Bangladesh Textile Today to organize 'The 3rd International Conference on Textile and Apparel, ICTA 2015. ICTA is the first ever such conference which is contributing the sector in strategy making, reviewing the innovations and available technologies for a sustainable growth. The first ICTA was held in 2010 and second one held in 2012. The Textile Association (India) was one of the Association partner in ICTA 2012 conference.

Texttreasure The curious paradox is that when I accept myself just as I am, then I can change. - Carl Rogers May - June 2015

L to R: Shaheen Mona, Secretary, The Textile Institute, Bangladesh Section, ASM Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Bangladesh Textile Today, Prof. Dr. Engr. AyubNabi Khan, Chairman, The Textile Institute Bangladesh Section, John T Smith, Chairman, International Events, The Textile Institute are signing the MoU for joint organization of ICTA.

The premium trade body for exporting garment Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters 57

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ICTA 2015 to illustrate the way forward for growth and excellence

NEWS Association, BGMEA recently has set a target of exporting USD 50 billion per year by the 2021. In one of the seminars of recently concluded Apparel Summit 2014, that exposed the target of USD 50 billion by 50 years completion of Bangladesh, BGMEA president informed that the theme of Apparel Summit that is targeting USD 50 billion by 2021 is in fact an idea of Mr. Tofael Ahmed, MP, Minister, Ministry of Commerce, Government of Bangladesh. That means 50 billion in 50 years in fact GoB's target that have been said by BGMEA. So, in Bangladesh perspective (the host country) it is to make sure an exponential growth. Many speakers echoed that Bangladesh should not look back rather should target China and gather more left out orders from them by achieving excellence in garment and textiles. 'Bangladesh's key competitors of course has set their targets and working plans. When China is going through a transition expected to drop many textile and RMG

exports in coming years, other textile and RMG producing countries are struggling to achieve the biggest part of the cake in their hand. On the other hand with revolving designs, fashion trend and trade mechanisms textile and RMG still offers opportunities for many developed countries. Hence recent techno trade movements urge for a refreshed look to set or review the strategies for the coming days.' said ASM Tareq Amin, Editor and Publisher of Bangladesh Textile Today. Mr. Amin emphasized that importance of a dedicated international platform like ICTA has even increased now. Looking back to our successful inception of 1st and the 2nd one, we look forward to the great success of the 3rd one as well. He added. For more details contact: Mr. ASM Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Bangladesh Textile Today, Tel.: +88 01717 585832, +88 01977 585832 Website: http://icta.com.bd/

Textile delegation from Bangladesh visits BRÜCKNER quantities with very different types of coating. The finishing line in BRÜCKNER's technology center allows drying, heat-set and coating a variety of fabric types. The guests from Bangladesh were enthusiastic about the multitude of finishing possibilities for very different intended uses. Simultaneously the new POWER-FRAME ECO dryer system allows saving considerably energy.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Owner Regina Brückner with her guests

BRÜCKNER - worldwide leading manufacturer of textile finishing lines - received recently a delegation of textile finishers from Bangladesh. Among them were standing customers but also interested executives of growing textile companies. They were cordially received by the owner Ms. Regina Brückner in the BRÜCKNER technology centre in Leonberg. BRÜCKNER's responsible sales staff and technologists explained their guests the technical details of the new dryer generation. Afterwards, coating tests with the highly flexible BRÜCKNER application unit OPTICOAT were made. This unit allows applying precise 58

On the second day of the visit, the delegation visited BRÜCKNER's production site in Tittmoning/Bavaria where BRÜCKNER produces their machines for more than 50 years. A relocation of the production site abroad is out of question for Regina Brückner: "We are proud of our German site and this allows us to keep the high quality standard of our products and to react flexibly to our customers' demands. This secures us a big competitive advantage." "Our standing customers are passionate about the quality of BRÜCKNER's machines and the textiles finished with them. Most of them even have several BRÜCKNER machine. After this convincing visit of BRÜCKNER and the inspiring mutual exchange of ideas the customers felt confirmed in their decision to buy BRÜCKNER" said sales engineer Manfred Schulte-Austum who is responsible for the Bangladesh market. May - June 2015

NEWS

Sapna Pabbi to be the new face of Jashn! Jashn, the ethnic fashion brand is all set to create waves by roping in the British actress and model of Indian origin, SapnaPabbi as the brand ambassador. SapnaPabbi started her career with Anil Kapoor'spopular TV series24, followed by success in the film and fashion industry y. She has also been seen in an advertisement opposite ArjunRampal. Sapna plays the galaxy woman who is lively, resourceful and selfassured. SapnaPabbi's sense of fashion reflects in her public appearances, where she brings in the classy touch to the ethnic attire.

The recently new collection launched by Jashn has a wide range of refreshing patterns that also incorporates intricate use of lace, zari work, luxurious fabrics and a palette of shades to pick from this season. The collection is all set to give a new feel in layering with their gorgeous outfits waiting to be adorned by the women today. The influence of metallic hues is prominent in this collection which is all set to attract the young woman to pick their styles from the wide range available. This collection will also witness incorporation of the 70's mood which all set to be back in style, accompanied by gorgeous ruffles and asymmetrical hems keeping in mind the daintiest details of the preferences of their consumers.

"We are ecstatic to announce SapnaPabbi as brand ambassador of Jashn. She is a perfect choice as she is an enigmatic and charming personality, who can carry off any outfit with elan. Alongside, the new collection also reflects modern ethnic fashion with sophistication. It is simply all about comfort and style going hand in hand. The new collection focuses on the 70's mood, with flowy elegant gowns, scarves and much more with bold patterns and metallic shades to look out for! We are thrilled and waiting for the response from our valuable consumers with this new collection" say RahuulJashnani,MD, Jashn." Jashn has expanded their horizons, by introducing the modern fashion line for the younger generation. The Collection has already hit the stores; it includes a modern and classy collectionof the western wear like gowns, and scarves and much more, along with their existing collection of the ethnic wear. This collection is available is across India. It is also available on majore-commerce portals like Myntra, Jabong and Flipkart and also available exclusively at www.jashn.in

Texttreasure Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

"I believe that every woman today, is fashion conscious and likes to flaunt her style. I am a big fan of ethnic wear, bright colors and comfortable outfits which make my day! Jashn has come up with a gorgeous line of fashion clothing to choose from theirnew launched collection. I am ecstatic to be associated with Jashn,a fashion clothing brand, and looking forward to the whole new makeover they have to set to achieve especially in the ethnic wear scenario." quoted SapnaPabbi.

NEWS

San Yang Textile Co., Ltd. places the order for 170,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles San Yang Textile Co., Ltd. places the order for 170,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles with SUESSEN/ Germany

Mr. JianminXu, the General Manager of San Yang Textile Co., Ltd.,

EliTe®Compact Spinning System

San Yang Textile Co., Ltd. is joint-stock cotton spinning and weaving company established in 2003. At present San Yang has 500,000 ring spindles installed and 340 sets of Air-Jet looms as main production capacity. The annual output is 30,000 tons of cotton greige yarns and 40 million meters of cotton woven greige fabrics. Over the past years, San Yang Textile has successfully built a strong reputation with its commitment to quality and services and has made a profound statement by receiving the China Top Brand for 2006-07 awards from the Chinese Government.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The company is also listed in the "China Cotton Textile Industry Most Competitive Top 20 Enterprises" for four continuous years since 2008. Further, in 2011, San Yang greige cotton yarn and cloth won the honorary title "The Influential Cotton Textile Industry Brand of China".

To cope with our market expansion and rapidly increasing demand for our products, we have already invested more than 1 Billion RMB in new machinery installations and raw material procurement in the past fiscal year, and we have a projected investment of a further 2 Billion RMB in the next few years. Part of this investment program is also the conversion of our existing ring spinning machines into Compact Spinning. Here we investigated over several months various technologies from various suppliers in our own premises. We came to the conclusion that SUESSEN offers the best technology with the maximum benefit for us. We decided to join hands with SUESSEN and offer the best possible quality to our customers." SUESSEN is the acknowledged Leader in Compact Ring Spinning Technology The SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning System has been sold for over 8,000,000 ring spindles and established itself as the most versatile compact ring spinning system. Existing ring spinning machines of various manufacturers can be upgraded to compact spinning, using SUESSEN EliTe®CompactSet.

Mr. JianminXu, the General Manager of San Yang Textile Co., Ltd., stated: "High quality production begins with the selection of the finest raw materials and the state-of-the-art production facilities with the latest technologies.

Mr. Roland Eberhardt, Managing Director from SUESSEN 60

May - June 2015

NEWS Mr. Roland Eberhardt, Managing Director from SUESSEN, stated: "We are very proud to cooperate with San Yang Textile Co., one of the foremost and influential market players in the textile industry in China and in the world.Two famous brands and leaders in their respective field will strive forward to produce first class products with benefits for the yarn processing industry. It is always the focus of SUESSEN to not only be

the leader in Innovation and Technology in the field of spinning, but also to join hands with first class enterprises worldwide. One of these is definitely San Yang Textile Co." The project is supposed to go into full production still in 2015. Both companies started already the work with full power in order to achieve this goal.

Rieter - Solutions in Automation and Innovations at Shanghaitex From 15 to 18 June the 17th international textile industry exhibition ShanghaiTex 2015 was held at the Shanghai New International Exhibition Centre. Over 1 000 local and international exhibitors participated in the exhibition. Already on the first day, it attracted thousands of visitors from all over the world. Rieter delighted its customers with solutions in automation and innovations.

Xia Liangjun from the Wuhan Textile University is presented with the Rieter Award China 2014

In Hall E1 Rieter presented the 4 end spinning technologies, as well as the 4 Rieter Com4速 yarns and their application in fabrics and end products. Furthermore the new RSB-D 24 double-head autoleveller draw frame was shown. This innovative machine achieves a high productivity of 2 x 1 100 m/min and features independent machine sides as well as autolevelling functions. Each head therefore produces exactly the same quality and productivity already known from the RSB-D 45 single-head draw frame.

A delegation of the China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC) visits the Rieter booth

High Ranking Visitors On the Rieter booth Mr. Reto Thom (Head Sales Rieter Machines & Systems) welcomed the VIP delegation of the China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC), led by the Vice President Mr. Yang JiChao. Rieter's long-standing commitment to sustainability was highly commended by the VIP guests. Rieter Award China Ceremony

May - June 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The well-visited Rieter booth

NEWS This year's winner of the Rieter Award China 2014, Mr. Xia Liangjun from Wuhan Textile University, was presented with the Award by Mr. Reto Thom and Mr. Michael Danielsson (Head Sales Rieter China). In September, Mr. Xia Liangjun will participate in the Rieter Award Week in Switzerland. Together with winners from the other countries, he will be invited to visit the Rieter headquarters in Winterthur and view the production facilities.

For more details Contact: EddaWalraf Marketing Business Group RMS Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 CH - 8406 Winterthur T +41 52 208 82 24 F +41 52 208 80 61 edda.walraf@rieter.com

Oerlikon Barmag continues to invest in research & development at the Chemnitz site

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Chemnitz, July 2, 2015 - following just ten months of construction, the new technology center of the Chemnitz-based machine and systems builder OerlikonBarmag was opened today. In the future, the 1,600-m² new-build on ZwickauerStraße will be the venue for the development and testing primarily of extrusion systems for tapes and monofilaments along with winding/texturing machines, twisting machines and carbon fiber winders. Furthermore, the new, attractive building will be used as a showroom for OerlikonBarmag innovations.

technology center, we are underlining the fact that our innovative power in the area of tape and monofilament systems is being concentrated, and consequently sustainably anchored, here in Chemnitz", announced Steffen Husfeldt, who has been successfully managing the Chemnitz site for decades now, with pride. The light-flooded, bright and friendly research & development center will be filled with life over the coming weeks. People and machines will be moving into the 1,600 m² building together. The space within the production facilities now vacant and to date used by OerlikonBarmag for its research & development activities can now be utilized for other purposes. For example, to expand production capacities in manufacturing and assembly.

Inaugurate the new R & D Center at the Chemnitz site From L To R: Ralf Schilken (CFO Manmade Fibers Segment), Steffen Husfeldt (Managing Director of the OerlikonBarmag Chemnitz site) and Georg Stausberg (CEO Manmade Fibers Segment)

In the presence of Berthold Brehm, the Deputy Mayor of Chemnitz, and many of the 160 employees, the responsible Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment managers symbolically cut the red ribbon on Thursday afternoon. "Today is a very special day for us, for our employees, for our entire company and also for the City of Chemnitz. With our investment in the new 62

OerlikonBarmag_ExtrusionsTechnikum: OerlikonBarmag technology experts will be developing high-tech machines and systems for the textile industry in the new, state-of-the-art R&D center

2015 will be a successful year for the Chemnitz site "If everything runs as planned, we will this year thanks to an innovative product portfolio and the exMay - June 2015

NEWS

The diversity of applications for tapes and monofilament yarns are currently making the Chemnitz-based OerlikonBarmag technologies so very attractive. Because industrial textiles are very much on trend and are enjoying growing popularity in many sectors of the industry. Its applications range from carpet backing fabrics, artificial turf, geotextiles all the way through to the agricultural sector. "Especially in the case of our extrusion systems, we are currently registering rising demand", explains Managing Director Steffen Husfeldt. "In the case of our new EvoTape system, for example, we have several very decisive advantages over our competitors that make newly investing in our tape systems very interesting for our customers." Innovation think-tank in new guise As an innovative technology company, all new developments of the market leader for monofilament and tape systems set benchmarks in terms of profitability, process stability and sustainability. The customers of the Chemnitz-based manmade fiber systems builder are spread around the globe. Whether in Europe, America or Asia - they will all once again be looking at Chemnitz in the future and focusing on the new ideas from the innovation think-tank that now features a new guise.

2016: 150 years of OerlikonBarmag in Chemnitz Chemnitz is the oldest site of what is today the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment: founded as Carl Hamel AG in 1866, the company was located at its current site in Schรถnau as early as 1896. Following World War II, the plant became VEB TextimaSpinn- und Zwirnereimas chinenbau, with the Remscheid-based Barmag AG taking over the well-established company in 1991. Since 2007, the enterprise has been owned by the Swiss Oerlikon technology conglomerate as part of OerlikonBarmag. 2016: 150 years of OerlikonBarmag in Chemnitz Chemnitz is the oldest site of what is today the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment: founded as Carl Hamel AG in 1866, the company was located at its current site in Schรถnau as early as 1896. Following World War II, the plant became VEB TextimaSpinn- und Zwirnereimas chinenbau, with the Remscheid-based Barmag AG taking over the well-established company in 1991. Since 2007, the enterprise has been owned by the Swiss Oerlikon technology conglomerate as part of OerlikonBarmag. Looking back on almost 150 years of company history, numerous groundbreaking product developments testify to the innovative spirit of the textile machine builder. Today, 160 permanent members of staff work at the Chemnitz site, 36 alone working in research & development. With its innovative, technologically-sophisticated products and its strong market position, the Chemnitz-based century-old company is an attractive regional employer. For further information: Steffen Husfeldt Susanne Beyer Chemnitz Plant Management Marketing & Corporate Communications Tel. +49 371 2388-240 Tel. +49 2191 67-1526 Fax +49 371 852-142 Fax +49 2191 67-70 1526 steffen.husfeldt@oerlikon.comsusanne.beyer@oerlikon.com

Texttreasure

High-precision winders for the manmade fiber industry are developed and manufactured at the Chemnitz-based OerlikonBarmag plant May - June 2015

For to be free is not merely to cast off one's chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others. - Nelson Mandela

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

traordinary commitment of our local management and our employees on-site and off-site with our customers throughout the world - experience maybe the most successful year in the 149-year history of the Chemnitz site", stated Georg Stausberg, CEO of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

NEWS

Birla Cellulose leverages the "Liva" proposition at 61st National Garment Fair

Birla Cellulose, Flagship Company of the Aditya Birla Group recently launched Liva, a new age fabric brand in line with consumer needs. Leading Bollywood diva, KanganaRanaut is the brand ambassador of Liva and had been part of the Liva launch in Mumbai. Made from natural cellulosic fibres using wood pulp, a natural resource, Liva lends fluidity, comfort and fashion quotient in clothing. Birla Cellulose being the world leader in manmade cellulose fibre industry is increasingly engaging with the end consumer directly as well as through leading garment brands in India like Global Desi, Allen Solly Women, Chemistry, Pantaloons, Van Heusen, Fusion Beats, 109F, Lifestyle etc.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In the past 4 months, consumers have looked for the Liva tag in garments and experienced the Liva fabrics designed in numerous styles by these brands. In the 61st National Garment Fair organised by CMAI in Mumbai, Birla Cellulose promoted Liva fabrics in line with their SS16 collection. These fabrics had a high ting of innovation in line with consumer trends forecasted by international design consultants. The innovations had unique blends like Modal Wool, Amicor Modal, Cuprammonium Modal, as much as a play of Dobby and Jacquard structures. Birla Cellulose had also launched a unique concept called "Liva Accredited Partner Forum" - (LAPF), of aggregated partners in March 2015. LAPF is a community of Spinners, Fabricators, & Processors who work closely with Birla Cellulose on innovation, quality & technology to deliver Liva fabrics to consumers. 64

Top leaders from the textile industry like Mr. Rahul Mehta, Director-Creative Garments and PresidentCMAI, Ms. Anita Dongre, Creative DirectorAND Designs, Mr.PrashantAgrawal, MD - BRFL and many others shared their experiences. In the 61st CMAI exhibition, LAPF was represented by 6 members 1. Gokultex Prints, Surat - An innovation leader in natural fabrics, shared its exquisite collection in pure Modal, CuproModal in manifold weaves, designs and prints. 2. Mercury Fabrics, Delhi - Showcased Viscose & Modal knitted prints unique with flora and fauna in brilliant colours as an innovation of Liva for the premium and mass markets. 3. Winsome Yarns, Chandigarh - A premium speciality Spinner and Knitter, they had shared their Spring Summer & Autumn Winter collection of Viscose and Modal knits in 100% and unique blends with super fine cotton, wool, silk, etc. 4. Ujjwal Textiles, Surat - They had pioneered Spun Viscose yarn warp structured fabrics in Surat, uniquely styled through single yarn sized with high end technology. 5. SVG Knits, Mumbai - Ponte De Roma Knits hitherto imported was a major innovation in Liva, in addition to Viscose and Modal blended knit wear.

May - June 2015

NEWS Marketing and Consumer insights offered through a systematic program by Birla Cellulose. Liva fabrics would be made available to quality focused brands across the country. Co-promotion will also be rolled out in a phased manner through Tagging for which a qualification matrix has already been worked out. Liva Fabric has been a vital ingredient in the entire gamut of fashion - Western wear, Skirts, Kurtis, Palazzos etc.

The LAPF is a 250 member's strong and growing group to be the best in class in the textile industry with support on Design development, Technical innovation, Vendor management,

To find out more about Liva and its associated programmes, write / talk to: Mr. Nikhil Sukthankar M.: +91 9702036462 E-mail: nikhil.sukthankar@adityabirla.com

A.T.E. ties up with Color Service, Italya global leader in the design and manufacturing of dispensing systems for dyes and chemicals reproducibility in dyeing printing textile houses. Apart from textiles, it also provides solutions for the food, rubber, cosmetics & tannery industries. Color Service is already a well-established player in India, with an impressive reference list including Vardhman, Abishek, Alok, Welspun, BRFL, Bombay Dyeing, Arvind, Trident, Himatsingka, Sharadha Terry - to name only a few. The most critical factor influencing dye houseproductivity is to get dyeing "right the first time and every time". With its domain expertise in dyes and chemicals for 28 years, Color Service provides exclusive and tailor made solutions (both semi and fully automatic systems) for perfect dyeing. These solutions improve the production cycle time,avoid wastages of dyes &chemicals,reduce labor,provide safe working environment, and most importantly they help to achieve consistency in processing.

Color Service was founded by Mr.FabrizioToschi in 1987. Its portfolio includes fully automatic systems for dyes, liquid chemicals, powder chemicals, print paste dispensing systems and print paste thickener preparation systems along with automated lab dyeing systems and complete laboratory solutions for bulk May - June 2015

A.T.E. is known in the Indian textile industry as a solution provider for all machinery and accessory needs - from spinning to garmenting. With this latest tie-up of A.T.E., customers have an added advantage of dealing with just a single source for all their textile processing machinery and automation requirements.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E.has tied-up with Color Service Srl, Italy, a global leader in dispensing systems for dyes and chemicals. A.T.E. will exclusively handle the marketing, sales and service of Color Service's products and solutions in India and Bangladesh.

NEWS

ARVIND Announces Exclusive Tie-Up with LYCRA® Fibre For its Cotton Stretch Denim Arvind and INVISTA are strengthening their partnership, with Arvind announcing that it will now manufacture its stretch denim fabricexclusivelywith LYCRA® Fibre.

All Arvind concepts have stretches powered by LYCRA® fibre and additionally showcase INVISTA performance concepts of dualFX®technology by LYCRA® brand, COOLMAX® fabric, COOLMAX® ALL SEASON® fabric and THERMOLITE® fabric.

Arvind with its belief in design, innovation and sustainability will now offer a differentiated, premium denim fabric to brands in the Indian market.

About LYCRA®fiber The LYCRA®fiber is an integral element in many of the world's leading fashion brands but is often misunderstood. "LYCRA®" is not a fabric or type in its own right. It is not the name of the category of stretch fabrics or clothing. It is the world's leading brand of spandex fiber that can be combined with many other fabrics such as cotton, wool, leather or even cashmere. It is a brand that delivers the consumer promise of comfort, fit and freedom of movement. A touch of LYCRA®fiber ingredient can help make garments and the people that wear them look better and feel better. LYCRA® branded fibersis essential ingredients in fashion today, driving innovation and working with designers and brands to produce stylish, beautiful clothes. LYCRA® branded fibers are found in all types of garments from underwear and swimwear, jeans and tailored suits to sportswear, hosiery and sweaters. The new LYCRA® MOVES YOU™ consumer campaign reinforces the emotional link millions of consumers have developed with the brand and its association with comfort and personal freedom across a wide range of garments.

The tie-up assists Arvind (India's largest manufacturer of Denim cloth in India) to drive penetration and increase market share in the domestic market. The total Denim business in India is 450 million mtrs per month & Arvind presently has a market share of 12-14% and a leader in the space. This partnership will play a key role in the growth of Arvind's denim business in 2015;Arvind is targeting a growth of20-30% by year end. As part of this collaboration, Arvind will ensure that all Arvind denim fabrics are provided with an ArvindLYCRA® co-branded Hangtag, communicating the benefits to the end consumer. Over the past few years Arvind and INVISTA together have delivered many firsts in Denim, enabling brands to bring differentiated denim products for their respective discerning customers. This is happening yet again with the two experts collaborating together and energizing the denim market in India. The denim collection at Arvind has the latest innovations with concepts like Mutant Denim, Denim Structures, Neo Denim, Neo Cord, Neo Bubble and Boomerang Denim.

More information on the LYCRA® fibre brand: Visit at www.connect.LYCRA.comand www.LYCRA.com. Also find the LYCRA® brand on social media by using @LYCRA Brand.

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Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion www.textileassociationindia.org 66

May - June 2015

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NEWS

May - June 2015

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

ABROAD

Techtextil India (Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwoven) Date : 24th to 26th September, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd., 215, Atrium, 2nd Floor, B Wing, Andheri, Kurla Road, Andheri, Mumbai - 400 093 India Tel. : +91 (0)22-61445900 Fax : +91 0)22-61445999 Website : www.messefranfurtindia.in

I3rd International Conference on Textile & Apparel 2015 (ICTA 2015) Date : 4-5 September, 2015 Venue : KIB Convention Hall, Farmgate, Dhaka, Bangladesh Contact : Textile Institute Bangladesh Section (TIBS) and Bangladesh Textile Today Tel. : +88 01717 585832, +88 01977 585832 E-mail : riyadh@textiletodaybd.com Website : http://icta.com.bd

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

INDIATEX 2016 International Textile Exhibition Date : 16-18th March, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convenor The Textile Association (India) Mumbai Unit, Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, 86, College Road, Near Portuguese Church, Meher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : +91-22-2432 8044, 2430 7702, Fax : +91-22-2430 7708 Mobile : +91-9167515676, +91-9324904271 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtni.net.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com, www.indiatex.co.in ITME 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 03rd to 08th December, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Executive Director India ITME Society 1210/1211 Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No.211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 India Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138 Fax : +91-022-2285 1578 E-mail : itme@itme-india.com Website : www.itme@itme-india.com

ITMA 2015 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 12th to 19th November, 2015 Venue : Fiera, Milano Rho, Milan, Italy Contact : MP Expositions Pte Ltd. 20, Kallang Avenue, 2nd Floor, Pico Creative Centre, Singapore 339411 Tel. : +65 6393 0241, Fax: +65 6296 2670 E-mail : info@itma.com, Website : http://www.itma.com 13th Asian Textile Conference (ATC-13) Federation of Asian Professional Textile Association (FAPTA) Date : 03rd to 06th November, 2015 Venue : Australian coastal city of Geelong, Victoria. Australia Contact : Prof. Xungai Wang (Alfred Deakin Professor) Chair of the Organising Committee Director, Australian Future Fibres Research & Innovation Centre (AFRIC), Deakin University, Australia Tel. : +61-03-5227 2894 M. : +61-419525434 E-mail : xungai.wang@deakin.edu.au Website : www.atc-13.org

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. 68

May - June 2015