E journal may jun '17 by TheTextile Association (India)

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PEER REVIEWED

Technology of Nano-Fibers: Production Techniques and Properties - Critical Review Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally1*, M. El-Sakhawy2, M. H. Elshakankery1 & M. H. Kasem1 1 Textile Engineering Department, National Research Centre. 2 Cellulose and Paper Department, National Research Centre. Abstract Different methods can be used for nanofibers fabrication such as bicomponent extrusion, template synthesis, self assembly, phase separation, meltblowing, drawing, electrospinning and centrifugal spinning. These fibers have numerous applications such as reinforcement fibers in composites, protective clothing, filtration, biomedical devices, electrical and optical applications, and nanosensors. This review paper sheds light upon production techniques of nanofibers, their physical properties and production parameters affecting these properties. Since electrospinning is still the most well known and widely used method for producing nanofibers, the effect of its parameters on nanofiber properties were also reviewed extensively. Keywords Nano-fibers, electrospinning, centrifugal spinning, fabrication, bicomponent fibers, meltblown technology, fiber properties

A nanometer, abbreviated as nm, is a unit for length that measures one billionth of a meter. (1 nm= 10-3 ?m = 10-6 mm = 10-7 cm = 10-9 m) [1, 2]. Unusual and unique properties of nanoscale materials arise from their exhibited profile compared to macromaterials. Novel properties exhibited by these materials instigate from their minute dimensions which converted into unusual mechanical, thermal, biological, optical, magnetic, and electrical properties [3]. Nano materials is currently under investigation in different fields such as self assembly and thin films, quantum dots, nanofibers, nanorods, nanotubes, nanowires, nanocrystals and nanofoams [4]. Nanofiber technology incorporated in different applications area such as batteries and fuel cells, capacitors, transistors and diodes, systems for energy transfer, composites for aerospace structures, drug delivery and tissue engineering. *All correspondence should be addressed to, Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, Textile Engineering Department, National Research Centre, 33 Bohouth St. Dokki. Giza. Egypt. Email: : saaa_2510@yahoo.com & saaa2510@gmail.com May - june 2017

2. Definition of nanofibers In definition of nanofiber, the term can split into two parts, namely "nano" and "fiber". The textile industry defines fibers as a filament, natural or synthetic as cotton or nylon, capable of being spun into yarn. A "fiber" is defined from a geometrical standpoint as a slender, elongated, threadlike object or structure [5]. The term "nano" is technically referred to the scale of a billionth of the unit. Generally, nanofiber is a term used for fibers with a diameter between 50 and 300 nanometers [6]. 3. Manufacturing techniques of nanofibers There are a number of techniques capable of fabricating nanofibers. These techniques include bicomponent extrusion, phase separation, template synthesis, drawing, meltblowing, electrospinning and centrifugal spinning. 3.1. Bicomponent extrusion (Island- in- the-sea) Bicomponent fibers can be defined as extruding two polymers together in the same fiber from the same spinneret [7]. Some examples of bicomponent fibers include sheath-core, eccentric, islands-in-the-sea and segmented pie fibers, as shown in Figure 1 [8]. Islands-in-the-sea form fibers are also called matrix-filament fibers because in cross section, they appear as one polymer is inserted into a matrix of a second polymer. Islands-in-the-sea fibers may have a uniform or nonuniform diameter of the island portion. 5

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1. Introduction Nanotechnology is the science concerned with the study of the phenomena and functions of matters within the dimensional range of 0.1-100 nm.

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Figure 3.1 Cross-sections of bicomponent fibers [8]

Essentially, these filaments are spun from the blend of two polymers in the required ratio; where one polymer is suspended as drops in the second's melt. Fast cooling of the fiber beneath the spinneret holes is an important feature in fibers production. The differences in spinnability between the two polymers would almost hinder the spinnability of its blend, with the exception at lower mixtures concentration (#20%). One of the fiber components can be removed by the use of heat, a solvent or a chemical; or using mechanical devices [7, 9]. In bicomponent extrusion two polymers are delivered to a simple spinneret hole, split by a blade edge or septum, which feeds the two segments into side by side arrangements [8, 9].

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The pipe in pipe method is one of most used methods to manufacture bicomponent fibers where one of the streams constituent envelopes the other stream component at the end of the tube. Nakata et al. [10] prepared continuous PET nanofibers with a 39 nm diameter by sea-island-type from the flow-drawn fiber with further drawing and exclusion of the sea component. 3.2. Phase Separation In phase separation, a polymer is initially blended with a solvent before suffering gelation. The major mechanism in this system is the separation of phases owing to physical inconsistency. The solvent phase is then extracted, leaving the other residual phase. A detailed method for poly(L-lactic) acid (PLLA) nanofibrous producing has been explained by Ma and Zhang [11] in a five main steps, polymer dissolution, gelation, solvent extraction, freezing and freeze-drying. 6

3.3. Template Synthesis Template synthesis is another commonly used approach mostly to produce inorganic nanofibers e.g. carbon nanotubes and nanofibers [12] or conductive polyaniline (PANI) [13], polypyrrole (PPy) [14] etc. Template synthesis involves the use of a template or mold to get a preferred material or structure. Thus the casting technique and DNA replication can be believed as template-based synthesis. For the instance of nanofiber creation by Feng et al. [15], the template mentions to a metal oxide membrane with nano-scale diameter thickness pores. By the use of water pressure along with the porous membrane control causes extrusion of the polymer which, by contacting with a solidifying solution, provides a nanofibers whose diameters are managed by the pores. 3.4. Drawing The drawing process can be characterized as dry spinning at a molecular level. The process can only be applied to viscoelastic materials that can experience a high degree of deformations, but remaining sufficiently solid to hold up the developed stress during pulling. A typical drawing method requires a SiO2 surface; a micropipette and a micromanipulator to produce nanofibers. However, this process produced nanofibers in a laboratory-scale one by one which prevents it from being scaled up to industrial level [16]. A micropipette with a few micrometer diameters was dipped into the droplet near the contact line via a micromanipulator. The micropipette was then removed from the liquor at a speed around 1 x 10-4 ms-1 to pull a nanofiber. The pulled fiber was dumped on the surface by touching it with the micropipette end. The nanofiber drawing was frequently repeated on every droplet. The material viscosity at the edge of the droplet increased with evaporation. So, drawing a fiber involves a viscoelastic material which able to undergo strong deformations even as being adequate cohesive to maintain the developed stress during pulling [17]. 3.5. Meltblown technology Meltblown technology involves a single step production of fibers by a polymer melt extruding through an orifice die and drawing down the extrudate with a hot air, usually at similar temperature as the molten polymer. The air exerts the drag force to attenuate the melt extrudate into fibers, which are then gathered in the form of a nonwoven mat. This technique provides the utilization of thermoplastic polymers in a fairly economic spinning process Figure 2 [18]. May - June 2017

SPINNING 40) KV was formed between the liquid drop surface and the rotating disk collector. A basic electrospinning apparatus is shown in Figure 3. 3.7. Centrifugal spinning Electrospinning is definitely the preferred method for nanofibers fabrication; nevertheless it faces some drawbacks for instance high electric field necessities, solutions with superior dielectric properties, low production rate, high production cost and many other safety correlated topics, electrospinning could not be suitable for mass production of certain materials [28-31].

3.6 Electrospinning Electrospinning is a famous procedure for the electrostatic production of polymer nanofibers [19, 20]. Formhals published the first patent for preparing artificial threads by electrospinning in 1934 [21]. Electrospinning is a smart method to attain nanofibers as it is simple to use and it produces non-woven mats with a wonderful volume/area ratio. In the electrospinning technique, a jet of polymer solution is ejected from the tip of a droplet under electrostatic forces action [22-25]. The produced nanofibers usually form a nonwoven mat. Individual nanofiber fragment of lengths up to several centimeters can be arranged and collected [26]. The polymer solutions were located in a plastic syringe tip of inner diameter 0.6 mm. A pendant droplet of polymer solution was continued at the syringe tip [27].

Figure 3.3 Schematic of Electrospinning Setup [22]

The jet issued downs from the tip of the pendant drop of polymer solution and was attracted to the sharp frame of a collector disk revolving around a horizontal axis. The frame is placed at a distance of 200 mm below the droplet. The aluminum disk of 200 mm diameter had a pointed frame with a 26.60 half-angle, to create a stronger converging electrostatic field. Therefore an electric potential variation around (15May - june 2017

Centrifugal spinning, or Forcespinning, is a recently developed nanofiber forming method and it draws extensive interest mainly due to its high production rate, which is 500 times faster than traditional electrospinning [32]. Rather than using electrostatic force, centrifugal spinning develops centrifugal force to realize the high-rate production of nanofibers [33]. Centrifugal spinning can be used to fabricate nanofibers by using polymer solutions or polymer melts, without the dielectric constant restrictions and the involvement of high voltage electric field. Besides, carbon, ceramic and metal fibers can also be fabricated by centrifugal spinning [34-35]. It is meaningful to note that the centrifugal spinning process was initially developed in 1924 by Hooper to produce artificial silk fiber from viscose by applying centrifugal forces to a viscous material [36]. Therefore, this method has been used for fiber production since it was established by Hooper. The fiber formation process of centrifugal spinning relies upon the competition between centrifugal force and Laplace force (arise from surface curvature) [37]. During centrifugal spinning, the nanofiber formation process can be divided into three stages: (i) jet-initiation to force the polymer solution stream through the orifice, (ii) jet-extension to enhance surface area of the forced polymer stream, and (iii) solvent evaporation to harden and shrink the polymer jet Figure 4 [38].

Texttreasure Knowledge is nothing but finding unity in the midst of diversity - Swami Vivekananda 7

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Figure 3.2 Detailed schematic of meltblowing process [18]

SPINNING vestigated. Fong et al. found that electrospinning of PEO solutions (using the co-solvents of water and ethanol) that have viscosities between 1-20 poises and a surface tension in the range of 35-55 dynes/cm was fiber-formable [43]. However, cellulose acetate electrospinning in acetone/DMAc (2:1), viscosities range 1.2-10.2 poises, were fiber-formable [44]. These two cases show that the spinnable set of conditions for different polymer solutions is unique. In the following sections, the processing parameters of the electrospinning process are discussed in greater detail.

Figure 3.4 Schematic drawing of centrifugal spinning system [38]

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In the initial step, combinations of centrifugal and hydrostatic pressure at the capillary end exceeds the flow-resistant capillary forces and force the liquid polymer through the nozzle capillary as a jet [39]. The external radial centrifugal force stretch the polymer jet as it is anticipated toward the collector wall, but the jet moves in a warped curve owing to rotation-dependent inertia. Stretching of the extruded polymer jet is significant in jet diameter reduction over the distance from the nozzle to the collector. At the same time the solvent in the polymer solution evaporate, solidify and contract the jet. The solvent evaporation rate depends on its stability. For highly volatile solvent the jets form thicker fiber as the fast evaporating potentiates fast solidification which hinders the jet extension [40]. With respect to centrifugal spinning, parameters that impact the spinning process and the structure of the resultant nanofibers include spinneret angular velocity, orifice radius, polymer viscoelasticity, solution surface tension, solvent evaporation rate, temperature and the nozzle-collector distance [41]. 4. Factors affecting electrospinning process There are numerous parameters that can affect the conversion of polymer solutions into nanofibers during electrospinning. These parameters include (a) governing variables for instance applied voltage at the spinneret, the tip-to-ground distance, the hydrostatic pressure in the capillary tube, (b) surrounding condition for instance solution air flow, temperature, and humidity in the electrospinning chamber, and (c) the solution (spinning dope) properties such as viscosity, conductivity, surface tension and elasticity [42]. Spinnability of various polymers has been widely in8

4.1. Spinning solution concentration and viscosity Viscosity is one of the most important parameters that influence the fiber diameter is the spinning dope. Higher viscosities produce a larger fiber diameter [42, 43 and 45]. It is to be noted that the spinning dope viscosity is directly comparative to the polymer concentration. Thus, an increase in polymer concentration will also mean an increase in fiber diameter consistent with a power law relationship [46]. Demir et al. after that confirmed that the fiber diameter was comparative to the cube of the polymer concentration [47]. Fong et al. prove that the fiber morphology was influenced by the polymer concentration, thus by the viscosity as well. It was observed that many beads form at low viscosity, resulting in a "beads-on-the-strings" morphology. At high viscosity, beadless fibers were obtained [43]. Figure 4.1 shows that the average diameter of polyurethane fibers is proportional to the cube of the polymer concentration

Figure 4.1 Average fiber diameter of polyurethane fibers is proportional to the cube of the polymer concentration

4.2. Applied voltage Applied voltage is another parameter that affects the fiber diameter. Generally, a higher applied voltage leads to a higher volume of spinning dope ejection, resulting in a larger fiber diameter. The jet diameter increases with increasing applied voltage [47]. Figure 4.2 shows May - June 2017

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Figure 4.2 Jet diameter as a function of applied voltage 4.3. Spinning solution temperature

Uniformity of the fiber diameter is also a challenge posed by the electrospinning process. Demir et al. reported that polyurethane fiber diameters were more uniform when electrospinning was conducted at a high temperature (700C) compared to room temperature. It was also noted that the spinnability of the fibers increased with increasing spinning dope temperature. At room temperature the highest polymer concentration that could be electrospun was 12.8 wt% (weight percent), whereas a 21.2 wt% polyurethane polymer solution could be electrospun at a high temperature of 700C [47]. Clearly, the spinnability of the polymer solution increases with decreasing viscosity of the solution 4.4. Surface tension It was observed by Doshi and Reneker that beadless fibers could be obtained by reducing the surface tension of a polymer solution [42]. However, this generalization is not always true, as shown by Liu and Hsieh in their work producing cellulose fibers by electrospinning of cellulose acetate using dimethylacetamide (DMAc) and acetone as the solvents. Acetone has a surface tension of 23.7 dyne/cm, whereas DMAc has a surface tension of 32.4 dyne/cm. When using either DMAc or acetone alone as the solvent, beads or beaded fibers were obtained. When a co-solvent of DMAc and acetone was used, the surface tension ranging between 23.7 and 32.4 dyne/cm, beadless fibers were observed [44]. 4.5. Electrical conductivity The addition of salts into a polymer solution can result in fewer beads and finer fibers. It is clarifying that with the salts addition, a higher charge density on the May - june 2017

jet surface was attained, bringing additional electrical charge to the jet. An increase in the jet charge leads to higher elongation forces on the jet under the electric field, resulting in fewer beads and finer fibers. Zong et al. reported that, as the salt content in a polymer solution increased, fewer beads and finer fibers were observed [48]. Lee et al. also found that using a solvent with a higher electrical conductivity would result in polycaprolactone (PCL) fibers with smaller diameters [49]. 4.6 Molecular weight of polymer As molecular weight (MW) is proportional to the polymer chain length, a high MW implies a high degree of polymer chain entanglement. The Berry number, an indication of the degree of polymer chain entanglement, is a product of the intrinsic viscosity and polymer concentration. A high Berry number indicates a high degree of polymer chain entanglement. The Berry number has been found to correlate positively with the fiber morphology and diameter, implying that a higher MW would result in a larger fiber diameter and fewer beads. Koski et al. reported that PVA fiber diameter increases with MW and Berry number. At low MW and Berry number (<9), the beaded morphology and circular cross-section are evident. At high MW and Berry number (>9), flat fibers with large diameters were obtained [50]. The relation between fiber morphology with different molecular weights was presented in figure7.

Figure 4.3 PVA fiber morphology of 25 wt% polymer concentration with a molecular weight of 9000-50 000 g/mol.

4.7 Spinning distance The further the distance between the spinneret and the grounded metal screen, the finer the fiber diameter will be, as the fibers have more time and distance to elongate themselves in the instable zone. Doshi and Reneker [42] verified that the jet diameter decreases with increasing the distance from the apex of the Taylor cone, suggesting that the fiber diameter would decrease with increasing distance from the spin9

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that the jet diameter increases with increasing applied voltage.

SPINNING neret. 4.8 Spinning angle Many spinning angles have been previously studied, with 0o, 45o and 90o being the most common. There is little experimental evidence that spinning angle affects fiber diameter. However, uniformity of the electrospun fibers increased at 45o because the flow rate was often lower and gravity did not allow for formation of as many beads [51]. 4.9 Orifice diameter The smaller the orifice diameter, the smaller the fibers tend to be. Katti et al. demonstrated that a smaller orifice diameter results in PLAGA nanofibers with smaller diameter [52]. 4.10 Solvent boiling point A low boiling point is a preferred feature in electrospinning process because it allows the solvent evaporation under usual atmospheric conditions. This property supports the polymer fibers deposition in an essentially dry state [53]. However, a solvent with an exceedingly low boiling point leads to frequent clogging of the spinneret, due to quick evaporation of the solvent.

pacity of the material. Methylene chloride (MC) has a dielectric constant of 9.1, whereas the dielectric constant of dimethyl formamide (DMF) is 36.7. By increasing the composition of DMF in the solvent, the dielectric constant of the solvent increases as a result. The fiber diameter of polycaprolactone (PCL) was found to decrease as the solvent's dielectric constant increases [49]. 4.13. Feeding rate Zong et al. reported that a lower solution feeding speed yielded lesser fibers with spindle-like beads. At a higher feeding rate, larger fibers and beads were observed. Since the droplet suspended at the spinneret tip is larger with a higher feeding rate, the jet carries the fluid away at a higher velocity. As a result, the electrospun fibers are harder to dry before they reach the grounded target. Consequently, a higher feeding rate results in large beads and junctions in the final membrane morphology [48]. Figure 4.4 shows the SEM images of fibers at a feeding rate of 20 ml/min and 75 ml/min, where (a) shows smaller beads and finer fibers and (b) shows bigger beads and larger fibers

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Wannatong et al. reported that polystyrene fiber diameter decreases with increasing solvent boiling point [54]. 4.11 Humidity Kim et al. found that the average polystyrene fiber diameter increases with increasing relative humidity in the air contained by the electrospinning chamber [55]. The higher relative humidity composes a thicker fiber because the higher electrostatic charge density on the fiber surface is capable to split the fibers more. High humidity affects the evaporation rate of solvent in the jet. When a fiber reaches the receiver, some solvent remains inside, which subsequently evaporates and leaves the fiber a porous structure. During electrospun of poly(L-lactide-co-D, llactide) (PLDLA) Jeun et al. reported that with rising humidity the number of pores on the fiber surface increases, it also influence the pore diameter and the pore size distribution [56]. 4.12 Dielectric constant The dielectric constant is a material property that describes a material's ability to store charge when used as a capacitor dielectric. An increase in the dielectric constant means an increase in the charge storage ca10

Figure 4.4 SEM images showing the variation of beaded fibers at different feeding rates: (a) 20 ml/min and (b) 75 ml/min.

5. Properties of electrospun nanofibers 5.1- Nanofiber morphology Nanofibers formed by electrospinning have gained much research concern owing to their morphological characteristics. These fibers have high surface areas, small pore sizes and could be produced in three dimensional forms. By adjusting the process parameters, the above mentioned characteristics can be adapted to suit specific applications and needs [57]. 5.2 Physical properties of electrospun nanofibers Electrospun nanofibers have exceptional properties which add values to the product functionality. These properties comprise high surface area, small fiber diameter, low basis weight, filtration properties, feasibility to incorporate active chemistry, layer thinness May - June 2017

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The meltblown microfiber and the electrospun nanofiber webs have comparable strength properties, but both were lower compared with other nonwoven fabrics. Some applications such as protective garments require higher strength electrospun webs, but their lower strength is acceptable for some purposes such as filter media in which electrospun web can be supported with other fabrics by lamination to acquire higher strength [61]. Electrospun filter media characterized by the large surface area and small pore size coupled with their fine fibers [62, 63]. The possibility of using electrospun polyurethane, due to its elasticity, for protective garments has been investigated, however its strength is about half that of polyurethane cast film [64]. Meltblown and electrospun nylon fabrics have been treatrd by one atmosphere Uniform Glow Discharge Plasma (OAUGDP) [64]. It was found that fabrics exposure to OAUGDP for 10 seconds increase surface energy and wetability very much in all cases. Electrospun nanofiber webs have a number of smart property as a good strength per unit area, very soft hand and high surface energy which indicates a possibility of good moisture vapour transmission rate [64]. 6. Conclusion Due to their small diameter and high surface area, nanofibers have shown a great promise in engineering and biomedical applications. In this review paper, definition, production techniques, and properties of nanofibers were illustrated in details. Nanofibers could be fabricated using different methods for instance bicomponent extrusion, self assembly, template synthesis, phase separation, meltblowing, drawing, electrospinning and centrifugal spinning. These production techniques were explained in detail. As the electrospinning is still the most widely used method of producing nanofiber, their parameters affecting fiber properties were extensively reviewed. The critical parameter of electrospinning were concentration and viscosity of spinning solution, applied voltage, surface May - june 2017

tension, electrical conductivity, molecular weight of the polymer, spinning distance and angle, orifice diameter, feeding rate and relative humidity. These parameters were found to have a huge significant influence on nanofiber properties and morphology. References 1.

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day, 3(11): 12-14, (2010). Padron, S., Fuentes, A., Caruntu, D. and Lozano, K. Experimental study of nanofiber production through forcespinning. Journal of Applied Physics, 113, 1-9, (2013). Raghavan, B., Soto, H. and Lozano, K. Fabrication of melt spun polypropylene nanofibers by forcespinning. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 8(1), 52-60, (2013). Hooper, J. P. Centrifugal Spinneret, in US patent US 1500931 A, USA, 1924. Weitz, R. T., Harnau L., Rauschenbach, S., Burghard, M. and Kern, K. Polymer Nanofibers via Nozzle-Free Centrifugal Spinning. Nano Letters, 8 (4), 1187-1191, (2008). Badrossamay, M. R., McIlwee H. A., Goss J. A., and Parker K. K. Nanofiber assembly by rotary jet-spinning. Nano Letters, 10 (6), 2257-2261, (2010). Ducree, J., Haeberle, S., Lutz, S., Pausch, S., Stetten, F. V. and Zengerle, R. The centrifugal microfluidic Bio-Disk platform. Journal of Micromechanics and Microengineering, 17 (7), S103-S115, (2007). Lu, Y., Li. Y., Zhang, S., Xu, G., Fu, K., Lee, H. and Zhang, X. Parameter study and characterization for polyacrylonitrile nanofibers fabricated via centrifugal spinning process. European Polymer Journal, 49 (12), 3834-3845, (2013). Padron, S. 2D modeling of Forcespinning (TM) nanofiber formation with experimental study and validation. The University of Texas-Pan American, M. S. thesis, 2012. Doshi, J. and Reneker, D. H. Electrospinning process and applications of electrospun fibers. Journal of Electrostatics, 35(2-3),151-160, (1995). Fong H., Chun, I. and Reneker, D. H. Beaded nanofibers formed during electrospinning. Polymer, 40 (16),4585-4592, (1999). Liu, H. and Hsieh, Y.-L. Ultrafine fibrous cellulose membranes from electrospinning of cellulose acetate. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 40(18), 2119-2129, (2002). Baumgarten, P. K. Electrostatic spinning of acrylic microfibers. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 36(1), 71-79 (1971). Deitzel, J. M., Kleinmeyer, J. D., Haris, D. and Beek Tan, N. C. The effect of processing variables on the morphology of electrospun nanofibers and textiles. Polymer, 42(1), 261-272, (2001).

May - june 2017

47. Demir, M. M., Yilgor, I., Yilgor, E. and Erman, B. Electrospinning of polyurethane fibers. Polymer, 43(11), 3303-3309, (2002). 48. Zong, X. S., Kim, K., Fang, D., Ran, S., Hasiao, B. S. and Chu, B. Structure and process relationship of electrospun bioabsorbable nanofiber membranes. Polymer, 43 (130), 4403-4412, (2002). 49. Lee, K. H., Kim, H. Y., Khil, M. S., Ra, Y. M. and Lee, D. R. Characterization of nano-structured poly (-caprolactone) nonwoven mats via electrospinning. Polymer, 44(4), 1287-1294, (2003). 50. Koski, A., Yim, K. and Shivkumar, S. Effect of molecular weight on fibrous PVA produced by electrospinning. Materials Letters, 58 (3-4), 493497, (2004). 51. Ko, F. K. Nanofiber technology: bridging the gap between nano and macro world, S. Guceri et al. (eds.), Nanoengineered Nanofibrous Materials, 1-18. Kluwer academic publishers, London, Chapter 1 (2004). 52. Katti, D. S., Robinson K. W., Ko, F. K. and Laurencin, C. T. Bioresorbable nanofiber-based systems for wound healing and drug delivery: optimization of fabrication parameters. Journal of Biomedical Materials Research Part B: Applied Biomaterials, 70 (2), 286-296, (2004). 53. Matthews, J. A., Wnek, G. HYPERLINK "http://pubs.acs.org/action/doSearch? ContribStored=Wnek%2C+G+E" E. HYPERLINK "http://pubs.acs.org/action/do Search? ContribStored=Wnek%2C+G+E", Simpson, D. G. and Bowlin, G. L. Electrospinning of collagen nanofibers. Biomacromolecules, 3(2), 232-238, (2002). 54. Wannatong, L., Sirivat, A. and Supaphol, P. Effects of solvents on electrospun polymeric fibers: preliminary study on polystyrene. Polymer International, 53(11), 1851-1859, (2004). 55. Kim, G. T., Lee, J. S., Shin, J. H., Ahn, Y. C., Jeong, K. H., Sung, C. M. and Lee J.-K.Effect of humidity on the microstructures of electrospun polystyrene nanofibers. Microscopy and Microanalysis, 10 (S02), 554-555, (2004). 56. Jeun, J. P., Kim, Y.-H., Lim, Y.-M., Choi, J.-H., Jung, C.-H., Kang, P.-H. and Nho, Y.-C. Electrospinning of Poly (L-lactide-co-D, Llactide). Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 13(4), 592-596, (2007). 57. Frenot, A. and Chronakis, I. S. Polymer nanofibers assembled by electrospinning. Current Opinion 13

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SPINNING

SPINNING In Colloid & Interface Science, 8 (1), 64-75, (2003). 58. Yang S. B., Lee H. J., Sabina Y., Kim J. W., Yeum J. H. Novel poly(vinyl alcohol) HYPERLINK "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0927775716301455"nanofibers HYPERLINK "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0927775716301455" prepared by heterogeneous saponification of HYPERLINK "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S0927775716301455"electrospun HYPERLINK "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S0927775716301455" poly(vinyl acetate), Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 497, 265-270, (2016). 59. Brown T. D., Dalton P. D., Hutmacher D. W. Melt electrospinning today: An opportune time for an emerging polymer process, Progress in Polymer Science, 56, 116-166, (2016). 60. Dzenis, Y. A. Spinning continuous fibers for nanotechnology. Science, 304 (6), 1917-1919, (2004).

61. Tsai, P. P., Schreuder-Gibson H. and Gibson, P. Different electrostatic methods for making electrets filters. Journal of Electrostatic, 54 (3-4), 333341, (2002). 62. Givehchi R., Li Q., Tan Z. Quality factors of PVA nanofibrous filters for airborne particles in the size range of 10-125 nm, Fuel 181, 1273-1280, (2016). 63. Matsumoto H. and Tanioka A. Functionality in Electrospun Nanofibrous Membranes Based on Fiber's Size, Surface Area, and Molecular Orientation. Membranes (Basel). 1(3): 249-264, (2011). 64. Tsai, P. P., Roth J. R., HYPERLINK "https:// w w w. r e s e a r c h g a t e . n e t / r e s e a r c h e r / 2035511551_Weiwei_Chen" Chen HYPERLINK "https://www.researchgate.net/researcher/ 30279415_J_Reece_Roth" W., Strength, surface energy and ageing of meltblown and electrospun nylon and polyurethane (PU) fabrics treated by a one atmosphere uniform glow discharge plasma (OAUGDP). Textile Research Journal,. 75 (12), 819-825, (2005).

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❑ ❑ ❑

May - June 2017

DYEING

PEER REVIEWED

Development of Compound Shades of Indigo and Marigold using Natural Mordants on Cotton and Cotton/Viscose Blend Prof M. D. Teli1* & Mrs. Pradnya Ambre2 Professor, Department of Fiber and Textile Processing Technology, ICT 2 Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, Dr. B. M. N. College of Home Science & Ph.D. Student of S.N.D.T. Women's University.

Abstract Consumers today are becoming more and more aware about the environmental issues related to the use of synthetic colourants and on other hand natural dyes are reviving their way rapidly by giving safe colouration property. As environmentally improved textile products have a great demand in the global market, there is a wide scope for the use of natural colourants for colouration of textiles. Both natural dyes and natural mordants are studied by many researchers but very fewer studies have been reported on mixed or compound shades of natural dyes. Therefore in the present study attempt has been made to develop compound shades by using Natural Indigo and Marigold on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose woven fabric bypremordanting technique.

1. Introduction Textiles are always valued for their colours, shades, prints etc. Though in the past this value addition of coloration to textiles was done by effective use of various natural resources, it declined rapidly after the invention of synthetic dyes in mid 19th century. Synthetic dyes soon became popular because of their ready availability, ease of application, wide range of shades and better color fastness. However, during the last few decades, the use of synthetic dyes is gradually receding due to an increased environmental awareness and harmful effects, of either toxic degraded products or their non biodegradable nature [1]. Today's consumer too is much aware about strict environmental regulations worldwide, interested in buying more and more eco-friendly products. Therefore textile industry has many challenges in meeting consumer's demand for providing 'Environmentally Improved Textile Products (EITP).' Such products have a growing demand for export market too. *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof M. D. Teli Professor, Department of Fiber and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai Email: mdt9pub@gmail.com May - june 2017

Natural dyes are the dyes or colourants derived from plants and minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources such as roots, berries, bark, leaves and wood, other organic sources such as fungi and lichens. It is estimated that, in India there are some 500 varieties of plants that can yield natural colors [2]. Natural dyes are non-toxic, organic in nature, obtained from renewable resources, non allergic, no health hazards, biodegradable, therefore eco-friendly. Some of them act as health care products.Since ages many naturally occurring dye plants were regarded to possess 'magical properties' with the power to heal, example indigo blue is believed to be giving cooling sensation and turmeric is considered a powerful antiseptic [3,4]. Thus natural dyes are recovering their lost importance apart from giving safe colouration property; some of them have proven to be giving functional properties too, such as anti-microbial, healing and UV protection etc. Indigo is one of the oldest natural substances used for textile dyeing and printing. It is an organic compound with a distinctive blue color. Economical as well as ecofriendly Indigo can be applied to fibres such as cotton, silk wool etc. with no requirement of mordant. Unlike many other natural dyes that require a high temperature, indigo works at low temperatures. It works 15

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Key word Marigold, indigo, compound shades, natural mordants

DYEING so quickly that you can get blue fabric after just 10 minutes in the indigo vat.[5]

Mixing of two or more dyes for achieving various shades with synthetic dyes is a common practice; but the studies of natural dyes for obtaining compound or mixed shades are still scarce. Among few such studies reported , Indigo dyed wool fabric over dyed with marigold which gave beautiful shades of green and wide range of shade gamut was obtained when cotton and silk fabrics were dyed by mixing cutch and heena using harda as mordant [9, 10]. As the sustainable solutions for the textiles processing are urgently needed, the studies that provide a concrete data on compound shades of natural dyes using natural mordants along with their fastness properties would help to satisfy consumers' demand for environmentally improved textile products. Therefore in this study effort is done to develop compound shades by using Natural Indigo on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose woven fabric and then top dyed with Marigold using premordanting technique.

Fig 1.Indican

Fig.2 Lutein (Carotenoid)

Marigold or Calendula officinalis is a plant in the genus Calendula of the family Asteraceae. Marigold is widely cultivated and can be grown easily in sunny locations in most kinds of soils. [6] The main colour giving components present in marigold are flavonoids and carotenoid. Lutein (carotenoid) is the constituent used as a yellow colour pigment for dyeing of fabrics. Marigold is also been proved to be giving antimicrobial property. [7, 8,]

2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 2.1.1 Natural dyes used Natural Indigo in powdered form was sourced from K.M.A. Exports, Tamilnadu, India. Marigold flowers were collected from household and temple worship as waste, dried in shade, grinded and used for extraction.

Table 1. Natural dyes and mordants used for the study

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Amla EmblicaOfficinails

Natural Mordant Harda TerminaliaChebula

Anar PunicaGranatumL.

Natural Dyes Neel/ Indigo - IndigoferaTinctoriaMarigold- TagetesErecta

May - June 2017

DYEING

2.1.3 Substrates 100% cotton woven fabric of 126 GSM and cotton/ viscose blend woven fabric of 108 GSM was purchased from local market, Mumbai, India and used for the study. 2.2 Methods 2.2.1Extraction of marigold 5% stock was prepared by boiling 5 grams of dried marigold flowers in 100 ml of water for 1 hour by reflux method; extract was filtered, centrifuged and made to original volume and used for dyeing. 2.2.2 Extraction of natural mordant (Amla, Harda and Pomegranate Rind) 5% stock was prepared by boiling 5 grams of mordant powder in 100 ml of water for 1 hour by reflux method; extract was filtered, centrifuged and made to original volume and used for mordanting. 2.2.3 Preparation of Indigo Dye Indigo is a dark blue crystalline powder and is not readily soluble in water. Dye is soluble in an alkaline vatsolution. Blank vat solution is prepared by using 20gpl of 40% NaOH and 10gpl hydrose at 500C. Required amount of Indigo dye is pasted using Turkey Red Oil and the volume is made to 100ml by adding blank vat solution to the paste which becomes green in colour. This solution is filtered and used for dyeing. 2.2.4 Dyeing Process Step I - Dyeing of Indigo : Thecotton and cotton/ viscose fabrics were dipped in the blank vat solution for 10 min and then were taken out and squeezed. The indigodyeing solution was prepared for different shades 1%, 2% and 4% (to be used for over dyeing with marigold). The fabric was dipped inthe indigo solution for 10 min at room temperature. Thesoluble indigo thus dyes the fiber. Fabrics were then removed from the dye bath and were exposed to oxygen.On oxidation,it was observed that the colourof the fabric changes from greenish yellow to blue. Fabrics were then neutralizedwith acetic acid and then washed with soapsolution for 10 min, squeezed anddried (9). Step 2- Top dyeing with marigold : Indigo dyed cotton and cotton/viscose blend fabrics (1%, 2%, and 4%) May - june 2017

weremordanted with natural mordant extracts in Rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, RossariÂŽ Labtech, Mumbai) keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The fabrics were introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 950C. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 60 min. Mordant % used - Amla - 20%, Harda - 15% and Pomegranate Rind - 20% After mordanting, the fabrics were squeezed and dyed using marigold flowers extract as a dye (30% Shade) for developing compound shades of Indigo topped with Marigold. The mordanted fabrics were introduced into dye bath keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30 and dyeing was continued at 950C for 1h. After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washed with cold water and dried. 3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Colour value by reflectance method: The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of color by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on RayscanSpectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression(1-R) Â˛ K /S = ---------2R Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient. Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the RayscanSpectrascan 5100+. In general, higher the K/S value, higher is the depth of colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100- white, 0- black), a* corresponds to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* corresponds to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire coordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3.2 Wash Fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO105 II method (11). The test samples were subjected to 5g/l of soap solution for 45 min at 500C temperature using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in launderometer. After rinsing and drying, samples 17

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.1.2 Natural mordants used Natural mordants such as Amla, Harda and Pomegranate Rind were sourced by ShitalAyurvedic, Mumbai, were used for the study.

DYEING were evaluated for the change in shade using respective standard rating scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor,2 - fair, 3 -good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent). 3.3 Light Fastness Test method AS 2001.4.21.2006 was used for determination of colour fastness to light (12). An artificial light source (mercury vapour, tungsten filament, internally phosphor-coated lamp) was used for assessment of light fastness. Assessment was done using blue wool scale (Ratings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3-moderate, 4 - good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent) 3.4 Rub Fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was carried out byAATCC 8:2005 Crock-meter Method, (Crock meter consisting of acircul arrubbing surface finger measuring 16 mm india meterex ertinga down ward force of 9N when moving back and for the along astraight line track of 100 mm on the specimen). Standard rubbing cloth is rubbed against the dyed test specimen with 10 strokes (back and forth) in 10seconds (13). Assessment is done by giving the rating for staining as per standard rating scale. (Rating 15, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

4. Results and discussions: 100 % cotton and cotton/viscose fabric first dyed with natural indigo, the K/S values for same are reported in Table 2. The same fabrics were then mordanted with 3 natural mordants (amla, hardaandpomegranate rind) and top dyed with 30% shade of marigold to obtain compound shades, K/S values and the fastness ratings for the same are given in Table 2 and 3. The results clearly indicate the increase in K/S values as the concentration of indigo is increased, the depth of blue is higher as far as single shades of indigo are concerned.

Negative a* and b* values indicate that the shades obtained are greener and bluer. In the case of cotton/ viscose blend fabric, the K/S values werehigher than those in cotton. This might be because ofhigher dye absorption by the cotton/viscose blend fabric than cotton as viscose has an inherent property of better absorption than cotton. Table 3 and 4 indicate the K/S Values and Fastness Data of 100% cotton and cotton/viscose blend fabrics first dyed with Indigo and then topped with Marigold using various mordants (such as amla, harda and pomegranate rind) to produce compound shades effect. The colour value in the case of natural dyes is a combined contribution of the effect of mordant and the dye [10]. K/S values obtained after the compound effect of Indigo topped with Marigold, when compared mordant wise , it is clear from the data that by premordanting with amla the K/S values are highest followed by harda and then pomegranate rind on 100% cotton. Similar trend is observed on even cotton/viscose blend. Table 2. K/S Values of cotton and cotton/viscose dyed with Indigo (Single shade)

Indigo

on 100% Cotton

% shade

K/S

1.2121

61.016

-5.134

-13.807

2.8915

61.488

-5.162

-15.188

4.7162

61.569

-5.487

-15.704

on Cotton/Viscose K/S

1.6223

61.497

-5.516

-14.082

4.859

62.799

-5.621

-16.848

9.4689

61.178

-5.291

-17.939

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DYEING Table 3. K/S Values and Fastness Data of 100% Cotton dyed with compound shades of Indigo topped with Marigold using various mordants

Mordant

% Compound Shade

Amla 20%

K/S

Wash Fastness

Indigo Marigold

Rub Fastness Dry

Wet

Light Fastness

30%

6.1305

54.286 -7.689

17.415

4-5

3-4

30%

6.997

49.424

-9.17

13.172

30%

7.2219

33.345 -6.995

-0.589

3-4

2-3

5-6

30%

3.6705

49.389 -7.966

2.627

4-5

30%

4.0391

47.532 -7.395

1.859

3-4

5-6

30%

7.805

52.47

-8.399

3.455

3-4

5-6

Pomegranate

30%

1.3272

58.663 -6.082

3.59

4-5

Rind 20%

30%

1.7952

54.988 -6.584

0.055

4-5

30%

1.9751

44.364 -5.655

-9.014

4-5

3-4

4-5

Harda 15%

It is also observed that the K/S values are much higher in case of cotton/viscose blend than 100% cotton.It is to be noted that as Indigo base shade increased, keeping the marigold top dyeing same, the green colour developed showed decreasing L* values, means shades becomingdeeper. Also progressively b* values decreased indicating lowering of yellowness and increasing of blueness. The a* values did not show appreciable change. In other words irrespective of mordant,

the above mentioned general trend persisted. As far as the fastness ratings are concerned, the ratings achieved for wash fastness were in the range of very good to excellent(4 to 4-5). Rub fastness ratings were found to be in the range of fare to excellent(2-3 to 4-5). And the light fastness ratings were in the range of good to best (4 to 6-7). Therefore overall fastness ratings achieved for representative compound shades samples were promising and encouraging.

Table 4: K/S Values and Fastness Data of Cotton/Viscose blend dyed with compound shades of Indigo topped with Marigold using various mordants

Amla 20%

% Compound Shade

K/S

Wash Fastness

Indigo Marigold

Rub Fastness Dry

Wet

Light Fastness

30%

8.7101

54.176 -10.57

14.717

4-5

3-4

30%

9.019

43.556 -10.88

5.565

30%

10.585

36.635 -10.46

1.994

4-5

3-4

6-7

30%

7.1674

51.1

-9.548

3.017

3-4

30%

7.7516

55.11

-9.982

4.911

6-7

30%

8.2369

43.912 -9.657

-3.311

3-4

6-7

Pomegranate

30%

2.4322

49.019 -7.656

-6.206

4-5

3-4

Rind 20%

30%

3.607

64.072 -9.942

6.376

4-5

3-4

30%

4.2105

51.913 -9.728

-4.511

4-5

Harda 15%

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mordant

DYEING However wide range of shades of green were explored in this study. Shades varying from light green, yellowish green to deep green were obtained. Shades achieved on cotton/viscose blend were deeperand darker as compared to 100% cotton. 5. Conclusion Compound shades of green are obtained on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose woven fabric by first dyeing it with natural indigo, then topped with marigold. Results were encouraging as a wide range of shade gamut was achieved. Though number of earlier studies reported the use of chemical mordants for dyeing of natural dyes, this study is unique in its way as the compound shades of natural dyes were developed using 3 different natural mordants. Also the fastness properties achieved were of good standard. As textile industry is looking for more and more sustainable solutions for dyeing techniques, use of natural dyes with natural mordants is going to be promising in near future. Table 5. Compound shades obtained by mixing Indigo and Marigold Mordant

% Compound Shade Indigo Marigold

Amla 20%

30 %

Pomegranate

30 %

Rind20 %

30 %

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Harda 15 %

Substrate 100% Cotton

3. 20

5. 6. 7.

10.

11. 12.

Cotton/ Viscose

References 1.

Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., &Shastrakar, P. (2013). Exploratory investigation of Chitosan as mordant for eco-friendly antibacterial printing of Cotton with Natural dyes. Journal of Textiles, 2013. Prabhu, K. H. &Bhute, A. S. (2012). Plant based natural dyes and mordants: A Review. Journal of natural products, plant resources, 2(6), 649-664. Wells, K. (2013). Colour, health and wellbeing: The hidden qualities and properties of natural

13. 14.

dyes. Journal of the International Colour Association. (11), 28-36. Siva, R. (2007). Status of natural dyes and dyeyielding plants in India. Current Science-Bangalore-, 92(7), 916-925. http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/indigo.html Pot Marigold, www.wikipedia.org. Asmamani, S. Development of eco-friendly antimicrobial finish on cotton fabric using Calendula Officinalis (marigold). Man-made Textiles in India, XXXVIII (10): 373-376. (2010) Gulrajani, M. L. Present Status of Natural Dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, (26): 191-201, (2001). Teli M. D., Valia S. P. &Kolambakar D. (2014). Coloration Properties of Indigo Dyed Wool Top Dyed with Marigold. Journal of the Textile Association, Sept-Oct. 175-177. Teli, M.D., Shaikh,J. , Mahalle, K.K. &Labade,V. (2012). Self and mixed shades of Catechu and Henna on cotton and silk using Harda as a Mordant. Journal of the Textile Association, MayJune,23-28. Indian Standard, TEXTILES - TESTS FOR COLOUR FASTNESS (2008) Teli, M.D., Annaldewar B.N. &Thorat S.L. (2016). Sun protective dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric with marigold. Asian Dyer, Oct-Nov, 4144. http://www.texanlab.com/documents/downloads/ 4.pdf Prabhu, K. H. &Bhute, A. S. (2012). Plant based natural dyes and mordants: A Review. Journal of natural products, plant resources, 2(6), 649-664. Retrieved from www.scholarsresearchlibrary.com

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REVIEW ARTICLE

PEER REVIEWED

Himalayan Nettle Fibre and its Possibilities in Textiles: A Review Sambaditya Raj1*, Dr. Himadri Ghosh2 & Dr. Prabir Kumar Choudhuri3 1 Assistant Professor, Banasthali Institute of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith, 2 Professor & Dean, Banasthali Institute of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith, 3 Assistant Professor, Textile Section, Silpa-Sadana, Visva Bharati (A Central University). Abstract Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia), locally known as bicchu buti, grows wildly in the higher altitude of the Himalayan region, especially in Chamoli and Almora districts of Uttarakhand state attaining a height of up to 18 feet. Historically, as long as thousand years back, Nettle fibre was reported to be woven into fabric. Being superior to jute and useful for mixing with wool there are possibilities to spin them into yarns. In this paper, an attempt has been taken to critically review the various initiatives and experiments conducted by researchers to understand the possibilities to develop yarn and subsequently into fabrics from Himalayan nettle fibre for production in the textile industry leading to the economic development of these areas.

1 Introduction Review of literature is a critical and systematic method to survey and analyse the facts related to the topic of the research. Wide range of the Himalayan region is very rich in producing varieties of plants and trees. Some plants are capable of giving fibres having some favourable characteristics which offer possibilities to be used in textiles. Hemp, Nettle, Sisal are very common among them. These fibres have drawn the attention of the researchers to work with. The available literature in this area is very much required to be studied for further exploration its possibilities in textiles. The review work also help to find the gap in the information or facts of previously work done which can open the scope to fill up through systematic and indepth study of research work undertaken in most scientific manner. Exploration of reading materials to collect information, facts of the properties and results of various processes related to the study of a fibre of Himalayan origin namely Nettle have been carried out. Some practical observations during field study in the concerned areas have also been added further to gather information. *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Sambaditya Raj, Assistant Professor, Banasthali Institute of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith, Rajasthan. Email: sambaditya.bid@banasthali.in May - june 2017

Himalayan Fibres Himalayan region in India is a vast range spreading over ten states of the country namely, Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram and Tripura as well as the hill regions of two states - Assam and West Bengal. Indian Himalayan Region serves as a chief source of water for a large part of the Indian subcontinent and accommodates varied flora and fauna. Among these varied livings some plants and animal are capable of giving fibres which may have suitability in properties to be converted into textile products like yarn and fabric. Some important fibres like Sisal and Ramie available in this region are already registered of having some use in textile whereas Nettle another natural vegetable fibre might have found some application in textiles. Himalayan wool another fibre from animal origin available from Uttarakhand is also capable to generate interest among researchers to work with. Nettle Fibre: Availability and Characteristics Himalayan Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia), a perennial plant, grows in moderate and sub-tropical Himalayan region at a height of 1200 to 2900 meters above sea level [1]. Nettle, locally known as bicchu buti grows in the wild as undergrowth particularly in Almora and Chamoli districts in Uttarakhand, India. It is uncultivated and largely found growing naturally in the nearby forests as well as in the outskirts of villages in 21

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords blending, composite, fibre, nettle, tensile

REVIEW ARTICLE Uttarakhand. Himalayan Nettle belonging to the grass specie is found mostly in the higher altitude of Himalayas. This plant can attain a height of up to 12 to 18 feet [1].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In Europe, people have been using wild Nettle plants to obtain fibre already since the 12th century [2], particularly when there was economic or political crisis. Mostly domestic handcraft textiles were produced from these fibres. The first attempt to commercialise the production of Nettle fibres was in Germany at the beginning of the 18th century, but serious research in the cultivation was started in the 19th century, but it was not very successful. Only from 1927 to 1950 very successful research had been conducted with this plant and its output. People with their indigenous knowledge of extracting fibre from Nettle plant used to weave fabrics out of Himalayan Nettle fibres for their use past two thousand years back [3]. Various parts of the nettle fibre plant can be used as food, fodder and as raw material for different purposes in cosmetics, medicine, industry and biodynamic agriculture. Organically produced fibres are in demand by the green textile industry and show potential that is economically promising [2]

Nettle Plant (Girardinia diversifolia) [2] 22

Extracted Nettle fibre [4, 5, 6,7]

Ilze Baltina et al. [8] have commented that the Nettle plat can be grown for 10 - 15 years in one place without much care which has further been confirmed by C.R. Vogl and A. Hartl [2]. They have also determined that the obtained yield of fibre is less than that of Flax and Hemp. Experimental results have shown that the bast content in Nettle straws is approximately 20%. Average fibre strength is similar to that of Flax and Hemp fibre - 33-58 cN/tex. It has been also determined that older plants are capable of giving more yields of fibres having higher strength. The most remarkable information available so far about the fibre is, it is ecologically benign and it has natural resistance to diseases & pests. Unlike cotton it requires no pesticide and not much water to harvest and being perennial it requires minimum care and protection. In the historical days, the fibre plant was widely used for making bow strings, fishing nets and lines, sail clothes and even textiles in many cultures. It is considered as superior to jute and useful for mixing with wool [1]. Himalayan Nettle possesses special inherent characteristics which makes it very different from other fibres as follows: a) It has hollow core useful in creating fabrics with thermal properties, both warm and cool [1]. b) It is reputedly antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire retardant. c) It has great resistance to wrinkle. Extraction of fibres is made by almost the same conventional procedures as followed for other bast fibres like Jute i.e. retting in water. Only difference is that the bark from the Nettle plant is laid in Sunlight for 3 - 5 days. The dried bark is put under water in a pond for about 10 days. When it is ready to clean, it is rinsed with clean water. According to C.R. Vogl and A. Hartl [2], a Nettle plant give good fibre yield for 4 years, more fibres are available from upper stem part than in the lower part. Fibres in the upper part are finer and longer too [9]. Average fibre length being 43 to 58 mm & the diameters varies from 19 to 50 Âľm [9, 10]. May - June 2017

REVIEW ARTICLE

In the survey conducted by Gurung et al. [11] explains the thorough use of Himalayan giant Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia (Link) Friis) or stinging Nettle in the mountainous region of Nepal. The Gurungs of Sikles, Nepal, practice traditional methods in harvesting, processing, spinning and weaving Nettle, locally known as allo or puwa. The study emphasized on the efforts focusing on commercialization of Nettle in order to preserve their traditional knowledge and culture. Bacci L. et al. [12] discussed about the various methods used to extract Nettle fibre from plants, the study also emphasized on the effects of these methods on Nettle fibre quality. Applying mechanical scratching on the stalks stored for more than a year resulted in good degree of separation of fibres from sieves due to its natural retting processes taking place during storage. Vogl C. R. and Hartl A. [2] have discussed on the long history of the cultivation of perennial stinging Nettle in Europe during the 19th century and how European Research Institutions have cloned varieties of fibres in the early 20th century. They have also discussed how each part of the Nettle plant could be used as food, fodder and as raw material for different purposes. As organically produced fibres are in demand by the green textile industry, it has showed its potential in the economic development. The researchers came into a conclusion that though there is no commercial production of Nettle fibre there have been plans to introduce Nettle in the textile market in countries like Germany, Austria and Finland. They have suggested various ways and means to increase cultivation and processing of organic Nettle. It was recommended to develop cultivation methods for Nettle fibre and also emphasize on the cooperation between farmers and processing units. Also, a thorough review was required on economic factors of cultivation and processing. Nettle Fibre: Application in Textiles Sett S. K. et al. [13] in their article, "Studies of Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibre blended Yarns" highlighted their experimentation on Himalayan Nettle for exploring the possibilities of spinning textile grade yarn. May - june 2017

On testing, physical properties of Nettle fibre, the researchers were successful in finding their suitability for spinning. Being the initial attempt, the fibres were opened from the available reeds and processed through modified Cotton spinning (miniature) system with and without blends. The study also focuses on how various yarns were spun using the same experimented technique. These experiments resulted in identifying the properties of suitability of yarn for extensive range of textile products. As this was claimed to be the first attempt of spinning Nettle yarn through total mechanical processing, no comparison could be made with any other yarn. Huang G. [14] in his article "Nettle (Urticacannabina L) fibre, properties and spinning practice" discussed the investigate on he conducted on Nettle fibre to study its length, fineness, tensile strength and moisture absorption ability. The experiment resulted that when compared to Wool, Cotton and several other bast fibres, the moisture absorption ability of Nettle fibre (Urticacannabina L) is higher due to its special fibre structure (20 to 70 mm in length, with fineness ranging from 15 to 40 ?m). The study also revealed that this fibre could replace some widely used natural textile fibres. But due to its smooth surface and straight form, the fibre may be successfully spun when blended with other suitable fibres rather than using it in its pure form. In Europe, attention has been devoted to the methods of acquiring Nettle fibres for technical textiles. The authors in their study "Nettle Fibers as a Potential Natural Raw Material for Textile in Latvia" discussed on how several new Nettle plant clones are being created. As wild Nettle commonly grows in Latvia, emphasis was given on how to increase the cultivation of wild Nettle for converting them into fibres for further use. The study also revealed that though the obtained yield of Nettle is less than Flax and Hemp, the average fibre strength is similar to that of Flax and Hemp fibre - 33-58 cN/tex. The investigation of researchers, Davies G. C. and Bruce D. M. [15] detailed on the effect of environmental relative humidity on the tensile properties of two natural fibres: Nettle and Flax. Both the plants contain cellulosic fibre bundles in the outer layer with each bundle comprising of many cellulosic cells bonded together. The researchers had experimented the static and dynamic tensile moduli and strength of individual fibre cells under varying environmental conditions. 23

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Nettle fibres lie along the length of the stem under the surface of outer bark like Flax and Hemp. Bacci L et al. [9] have shown that the main chemical composition of Nettle fibre is Cellulose 79 - 83.5%, hemicellulose 7.2 - 12.5% and lignin 3.5 - 4.4%. They also observed that mean tensile strength of Nettle fibre varies from 24 to 62 cN/tex but elongation is slightly higher than 2%, the density of the fibre being almost half of that of Cotton i.e. 0.72 g/cc.

REVIEW ARTICLE During their early experiments, it was observed that tensile modulus is dependent on environmental relative humidity but there was significant effect of fiber damage. On taking into account the effect of damage, study resulted in a consistent relationship between modulus and relative humidity. The Uttarakhand Bamboo & Fibre Development Board [16] has highlighted the usage of Himalayan Nettle fibre for clothing by the local people thousand years back. As it has lost its popularity the Board has been taking necessary initiatives to promote the usage of wildly grown but eco-friendly fibre; Nettle, among the hill people specially Bhotia community of Uttarakhand who are crafting variety of products out of this fibre in a very efficient manner.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Lepcha S. T. S, Bahti S and Kumar A. [17] explained, with special context to Uttarkhand, the availability of local fibrous plants of North West Himalayan region. In their book the researchers highlighted the traditional methods in processing of these fibre yielding plants by the ethnic communities. Bharadwaj S. and Pant S. [18] in their article "Comfort properties of acrylic: Nettle fibre blend fabric" have discussed the effect of blending Nettle fibre with Acrylic fibre on comfort properties. In their study, stinging Nettle fibre was blended with Acrylic fibre in various proportions. Two counts of yarn were prepared that were further hand-woven in plain weave into fabric samples. While examining the air permeability, moisture absorption and thermal insulation of these samples, it was observed that increase in Acrylic percentage in the yarn resulted in decrease in air permeability of the fabric. With the increase of Nettle in the blended fabric there was an increase in moisture absorption, while the increase in Nettle fibre proportion the fabric showed better thermal insulation value. Thus, the study concluded proving higher ratio of Nettle fibre in a textile material was more comfortable than those containing more Acrylic fibre. As little literature is available on Nettle reinforced standard plastics the researchers Fischer H, Werwein E and Graupner N [19] attempted to produce Nettle reinforced poly (lactic acid) (PLA) with fibre loads of 20-40?wt-% in order to assess the technical potentiality of this material compared to 30?wt-% Nettle / Polypropylene. In their experiment, the tensile strength could only be increased in case of 30?wt-% nettle / poly (lactic acid) from 52 of the pure PLA to 59?MPa, 24

which is far from the real potential of Nettle fibers. It was found that the Nettle-reinforced samples had Charpy impact values <50% of the pure PLA. In general, the Nettle as reinforcement showed a great potential for PLA. The researchers also suggested, that, if the large gap between fiber and matrix strength was reduced the tensile strength of composites could be increased for improving fiber matrix interaction. In the United Kingdom, effort has been made to use Nettle in developing a suitable natural fibre by blending it with non-food crop. At the initial stage, an experiment was conducted by processing Nettle with Wool fibre at the ratio of 50% Wool and 50% Nettle, 80% Wool and 20% Nettle and finally 75% Wool with 25% Nettle to form a yarn. This yarn was further woven into fabric. A fabric was developed with a soft feel on surface and possessing natural fire retardant property. Developing new natural fibre composites is the main concern of scientists in today's world. While studying the tensile properties of stinging nettle (Urtrica dioica), widely grown in Europe, through single fibre tensile testing Bodros E. and Baley C. [21] compared with other natural fibres like Flax, Sisal, Ramie etc. Nettle showed high tensile properties in comparison to other fibres and was suitable enough to act as reinforce components in composite materials. Conclusion Nettle a natural bast fibre have drawn keen attention of the researchers. The research papers under study have shown that the fibres possess enough potentiality to be converted into yarn in pure or blended with other fibres. Yarn can further be used for making fabrics. Application of Nettle fibres as reinforcing materials in composite manufacturing has also been reported. This review work has opened up the scope of further works through scientific, systematic and in-depth study with this natural, eco-friendly fibre. The study may lead to the designing and development of various textile products which can widen its applicability. People of the Nettle producing area may also get benefit through its cultivation and in turn the artisan, craftsmen can earn their livelihood. This will certainly lead to economic development of the region. Reference 1. 2.

http://www.ubfdb.org.in/natural-fibers/ Vogl C.R., Hartl A, 'Production and Processing of Organically Grown Fiber Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) and Its Potential Use in the Natural Textile IndusMay - June 2017

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13.

14.

15.

16. 17.

18.

19.

20.

The Textile Research Journal, December, (2010). Sett S. K., Banerjee A., & Mukhopadhaya A. 'Studies of Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibre blended Yarns'. Paper presented at the International Conference on Natural Fibres - From Nature to Market, Kolkata. (2015). Huang, G, 'Nettle (Urticacannabina L) fibre, properties and spinning practice'. The Journal of The Textile Institute. (2005). 96:1, 11-15, DOI: 10.1533/joti.2004.0023. Davies, G. C., & Bruce, D. M., 'Effect of Environmental Relative Humidity and Damage on the Tensile Properties of Flax and Nettle Fibers'. 68 (9). The Textile Research Journal. SAGE Publication. Uttarakhand Bamboo Fiber Development Board, Dehradun, Uttarakhand. www.ubfdb.org. Lepcha S. T. S, Bahti S, & Kumar A. (2009). 'Common fiber yielding plants of North West Himalayas--with special reference to Uttarakhand'. Uttarakhand State Council for Science and Technology Uttarakhand Bamboo and Fiber Development Board. Dehradun: Rural Technology Action Group Bharadwaj, S., & Pant, S. 'Comfort properties of acrylic: Nettle fibre blend fabric'. Man-Made Textiles in India. (2015), 43(5). pp. 177 - 179. Fischer H, Werwein E. & Graupner N, 'Nettle fiber (Urticadioica L.) reinforced poly (lactic acid): A first approach'. The Textile Research Journal, (2012). SAGE Publication. Bodros E. & Baley C., 'Study of the tensile properties of stinging nettle fibers (Urticadioica)', Mater. Lett, (2008), 62, 2143-2145. ❑ ❑ ❑

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion www.textileassociationindia.org May - june 2017

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try', American Journal of Alternative Agriculture, Volume 18, Number 3, (2003), pp. 119 - 128 3. Nicola di Virgilio, 'Project Report on "Stinging nettle: a neglected species with a high potential as multi-purpose crop' Ph.D Thesis, National Research Council of Italy - Institute of Biometeorology CNR-IBIMET 4. http://www.wildfibres.co.uk/assets/images/ autogen/nettle1_10.jpg 5. http://www.tatatrusts.org/upload/images/Weavingdreams.jpg 6. http://www.ansab.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/ 07/allo.jpg 7. https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/original/c1/ 23/ c123bf0dddfba007.jpg 8. Ilze Baltina, Lilita Lapsa, Zofija Jankauskiene, Elvyra Gruzdeviene, 'Nettle Fibers as a Potential Natural Raw Material for Textile in Latvia', Material Science, Textile and Clothing Technology, July, (2012), pp. 23 - 27. 9. Bacci L, Baronti S, Predieri S, Virgilio N. 'Fiber yield and Quality of Fiber Nettle (Urticadioica L.) cultivated in Italy'. Industrial Crops and Products, 29, (2009), pp.480 - 484 10. Frank R, 'Bast and Other Plant Fibers'. Cambridge, GBR: Woodhead Publishing (2005). pp.331 11. Gurung A, Flanigan H, Ghimeray A. K, Karki R, Bista R., & Gurung O. P, 'Traditional knowledge of processing and use of the Himalayan giant nettle (Girardinia diversifolia (Link) Friis) among the Gurungs of Sikles, Nepal', A Journal of Plants, People and Applied Research. Ethnobotany Research & Applications, (2012). 12. Bacci L, Di Lonardo S, Albanese L, Mastromei G, & Perito B. 'Effect of different extraction methods on fiber quality of nettle (Urticadioica L.)'.

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Importance of Mapping for Development of The Fashion Company Business Strategy Dr. Gordana Colovic The College of Textile - Design, Technology and Management Abstract Rapid change of fashion trends, new fabrics and more demanding customers impose the need for flexible production which must be adjusted to all changes of production parameters for various garments. Fashion companies are focused on achieving optimal results concerning supplies, preparation, production and distribution of fashion products. Mapping is a tool that helps fashion companies in the process of strategic planning to define existing condition or the new strategy and strategic goals. In the process of planning strategic development the company's goal is to take advantages relating to competing companies through precisely defined strategic goals turned into strategic and action plans. The focus is on reducing production costs, continual improvement of production process, time reduction of technological process, improvement of efficiency and capacity utilization. It implies applying new solutions in production, together with applying new informational systems, management techniques and modern design (CAD/CAM, Lean thinking, Product Lifecycle Management -PLM).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Key word development, fashion, mapping, strategy

1. Introduction With the development of markets and increased competition, there are many fashion producers who want to sell their products and impose on the world market. Garment producers are forced to be even more initiative in the field of innovation and further reduction of operating costs. Strategy implementation and moving garment producers in a desired direction requires a special kind of expertise. Formulating a strategy requires an entrepreneurial focus and emphasizes the ability to conceptualize, analyse and weigh, whereas applying strategy has a primarily managing focus. All fashion companies must, regardless of their current situation, develop a long-term strategy. There is not a single strategy that would be optimal for all companies, because each of them must determine a strategy in accordance with its objectives, capabilities, resources and market position. [1] The problem of strategic choice is different and depends on the level for which the strategy is developed. The ultimate goal is the formulation of a successful strategy and the creation of supply companies which *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Gordana Colovic, The College of Textile - Design, Technology and Management, Belgrade Email: gordanacolovic@gmail.com 26

can meet the needs of consumers more effectively than the competition, thus achieving functional and business goals. The pace at which everything is changing unables any precise predictions in most business activities. Therefore, it is difficult to achieve defined goals and business strategies, and it is even more difficult to keep them unchanged for a long period of time. That is why it can be said that today's environment is turbulent and characterized by discontinuity. The only thing which is certain about it is that nothing is certain. The markets which used to be relatively stable with occasional fluctuations began to change rapidly. New competitors and disappearance of the existing ones have become a scene from everyday life. The life cycle of many products has decreased suddenly. Consumer tastes have become extremely sophisticated, being allowed by modern technologies to obtain high-quality products and services very easily at low prices, everywhere in the world. In strategic management planning is primary and essential phase of management process. Strategic planning is long and complex process in which there is no guarantee that a garment producer will achieve desired goals. Strategic planning is a process which includes: perception of market conditions, consumer needs, comMay - June 2017

OTHER petitive strengths and weaknesses, sociopolitical, legal and economic conditions, technological development, as well as perception of specific options and threats the fashion company is faced with. [1] In addition to the analysis of the general environment, a fashion company must analyze the business environment and internal organization (customers, available resources and suppliers, competitors, the labor market, their own organization, processes, business culture, managerial attitudes of all employees, from top management to workplaces which demand for a minimum level of expertise and knowledge required). Strategy maps can help to overcome this difficult and arduous journey.

functions - strategic management connects strategic objectives with information technologies, control and the system of rewards. According to Kaplan and Norton, the standard scheme of strategic map implies that financial perspective contains two branches: a strategy to increase the growth in the revenue of a company and the strategy to increase productivity. [4] Figure 1 shows a simple strategic map.

2. Strategy maps Strategy maps describe the process of transforming immaterial, intangible assets into material, tangible financial results. They provide a framework for identifying and implementing strategies in a company. [2] Strategy maps provide employees with a clear image about the connection between their jobs and the other ones, values which must be increased towards doing their job as good as possible, the most important directions for increasing the innovativeness and effectiveness of employees, processes and activities in the company.

Strategic mapping and management exists in companies with four key activities [3]: 1. Defining strategic objectives - strategic mapping process results in agreed and accepted concept of key assumptions for the future development of a company. 2. Implementing strategic goals through the BSC (Balanced Scorecard) concept - allows management throughout the organization, connecting the work of employees with the strategy, vision and mission of the organization. 3. Focusing on key strategic objectives - through operational performance of strategic goals the success of organizational units and individuals is monitored, along with achieving operational objectives for the current organizational level. 4. Connecting strategic management with support May - june 2017

Figure 2.1: Simple strategic map

On the basis of the defined tasks, objectives and criteria a "cause-consequence chain" is formed, aiming to show the path to improving the performance and prosperity of enterprises (Figure 2.2): â&#x2014;?

The perspective of learning and growth determines the strategic responsibilities, strategic technologies and corporate climate for performing which are required to support all processes and activities mentioned above. This perspective defines three categories necessary to implement the company's strategy: strategic competences: skills and knowledge necessary to employees so that they are able to support the strategy, strategic technologies: information system (3D CAD, PLM software), databases, methods necessary to support the strategy, organizational climate: the cultural changes that will provide motivation and training for performing a defined strategy. 27

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The purpose of strategic mapping is to define, through environmental analysis and analyzing the company itself, priorities and key strategic goals as well as the plan of activities at all company levels, from the top management to operational units.

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Internal perspective defines business processes and specific activities which an organization must introduce and implement in order to meet all the values for the customer: innovation processes (development of fashion products, the speed of delivering to the market), processes of managing consumers (development of solutions, services, customer relationship management), operational processes (supply chain management, reduce costs, improve quality, reduce production cycle time, better capacity management), processes related to the environment (health, safety, ecology and society). Figure 2.2: Cause-consequence chain Table 2.1 shows an example of a strategy map of a fashion company. Table 2.1: Strategy map of fashion company

Objectives

Criteria

Reducing production costs

Costs per activity in key operational processes The cost per unit of product Cost of marketing, sales, distribution, administration Cost control and laboratory testing of textile materials

Continuous process improvement

Number of process with a significant improvements (CAD/ CAM systems, CNC sewing machines) Number of eliminated processes that are not adding value (lean system) The percentage of waste textile materials Percentage garment with errors The total cost of the quality system

Improving the speed of the process

Design and production preparation (3D CAD) Time savings in of the process (CAD/CAM, work study, ergonomic design workplaces) Efficiency of the process Application of software (CAD; Product Lifecycle Management)

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Improving the utilization of basic resources

The percentage of capacity utilization The reliability of textile machines Number of interruptions in production due to breakdowns of sewing machines Flexibility (the number of products that can be produced on the basis of the same capacity)

Improving the efficiency of net working capital

The inventory turnover ratio of raw materials and finished products Turnover coefficient of byers/consumers Cash to cash cycle

May - June 2017

OTHER

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Next customer perspective is the core of the strategy. It shows how and in what direction the company's growth should be achieved. The most important thing for the customer is: the design of a fashion product, product quality, delivery time, price and image of the company on the market. The perspective of the customer includes several common criteria of the results obtained as the consequence of well-formulated and implemented strategy: Customer satisfaction; Retention of customers; Gaining customers; Profitability of customers; Market share; Financial share.

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Develops a strategic map (basic questions and problems around which to build a strategy). The objectives contained in maps and topics are devided into the objectives and criteria of BSC. Defines strategic initiatives. Delivers the strategic plan, which predicts how to finance strategic initiatives in various business functions. Creates teams for the implementation of certain strategic themes.

Financial perspective of an enterprise is to create values for the owners. Usually a comprehensive, long-term indicator of success is chosen, such as Economic Value Added (EVA), capital productivity, labor productivity, liquidity, etc.

3. Analysis of strategic mapping for development strategy Today, companies are forced to use a variety of programs of change and create such conditions that various actions and initiatives are being aimed at achieving long-term strategic goals. Figure 3.1 shows the process of strategic management. 3.1. Development of a Strategy For the development of a strategy it is necessary that the management of a company should: ● Define the mission, vision and values of the company ● Do a strategic analysis: external environment (political, economic, social, technological, legal); internal environment (human resources, capital, technology, key processes); existing strategy (current situation and problems). ● Create a strategy: define a market segment in which to focus the company's activities; determine the value for consumers; identify key processes; define the human resources necessary for the implementation of the strategy; determine the technology that will enable the chosen strategy. 3.2. Planning a Strategy The management plans a strategy by developing strategic planning objectives, criteria, initiatives, budgets which control activities and resource allocation. In this step, the company: May - june 2017

Figure 3.1: The process of strategic management

3.3. Adjusting the organization to the strategy In order to adjust the organization to the strategy it is necessary to pay attention to the following: ● The strategy is usually carried out at the level of business and managers must make strategic map a cascade (to get it onto lower levels so that the strategies of higher levels become the objectives of the lower ones, and so on). ● In addition to business units, there are support units in every company, or corporate staff functions, so the management needs to ensure their compliance with the company's strategy. ● The employees are always the ones who carry out the strategy and they need to understand the strategy and to be motivated to carry it out. 3.4. Planning the Operations The strategy is always implemented through daily operations, and here it is necessary to determine which business processes are necessary to improve in order to implement the strategy. Operational plans which are adjusted to the strategy are: predicting and plans of sales, plans of resources and the budget of operational and capital costs. 29

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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OTHER 3.5. Monitoring and learning Monitoring and controlling require using operational review meetings as well as strategy review meetings. 3.6. Testing and adaptation of a strategy Management must test the validity of assumptions on which the company's strategy is based at least once a year and modify and adapt it to the new reality. On the basis of the strategic management process and a strategic map, the strategy of a fashion company is formulated. An example is given in Figure 3.2.

4. Conclusion The strategic map is a logical and overall architecture for the description of a strategy. The bases of a strategic map are: competences of all employees, applied modern technology and organizational culture. This is the infrastructure: support for the usage of internal resources, meeting the needs of consumers and making profits for the company. The strategic map ensures that the vision and strategy are transferred into the system of specific objectives and criteria which then allow regular monitoring and measuring of their realisation. It measures not only the current value of the company's assets, but also its ability to create the value in the future. Fashion industry in the world will not give any results unless it strives for necessary improvements that will lead to productivity growth, more rational usage of all natural resources and cost reduction, i.e. it does not see the necessity for changes in management, capacity and planning.It implies implementing new solutions in production together with implementing new informational systems, management techniques and modern design.

Figure 3.2: Formulating a strategy based on the strategic map

Strategic mapping can be carried out in relation to the competition. The strategic group is a group of companies competing in the market. Strategic Group Mapping is a technique of displaying different market and competitive positions of rival companies. It is a tool for understanding the similarities and differences, strengths and weaknesses, i.e. competitive positions in the market, thus comparing: price, quality, geographical coverage, product portfolio, distribution channels and so on. Figure 5 shows the strategic group maps of retailers of garment.

Many associations and societies of textile and garment industry should work on strengthening the awareness about the importance of garment industry in the world, creating the image of garment industry, improving technology and stimulating innovations and new way of thinking. References 1.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.3: Maps of strategic groups of garment retailers 30

Colovic G., Strategic management in the garment industry, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, Oxford, New Delhi, Philadelphia, 2012 Kaplan R.S., Norton D.P., The Strategy-Focused Organization: How Balanced Scorecard Companies Thrive in the New Business Environment, Harvard Business School Press, Boston, Massachusetts, USA, pp 69, 2001 Strategy Maping and Balanced Scorecard (Available: http://www.omega ps.hr/balanced.html, 10.05.2016) Kaplan R.S., Norton D.P., Having Trouble with Your Strategy? Then Map It, Harvard Business Review, USA, pp 2, 2000 Colovic G., Paunovic D., Maksimovic N., Designing and Making Clothes Using 3D CAD solutions, International Textile Conference NEDITC, pp 30-37, 2016 â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018; â?&#x2018; May - June 2017

TEXPERIENCE

Protective Textiles Abstract Textile is an integral part of human life and is used for various purpose comprising apparel clothing, home furnishing and technical aspects. The protective clothing encompasses both the apparel as well as the technical functions and helps shield the wearer from harsh environment. With increasing consumer awareness and demands the protective garb is emerging as one of the fastest growing textile segments. Key words Camouflage printing, surveillance, night vision, Infra-Red emission

Ashok Athalye Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently a GM (Technical services) in Atul Ltd. He is heading the technical team in the area of textile dyes and chemicals for both domestic and international market. He has a vast experience of around 20 years in Technical services of dyestuffs and chemicals like ICI (India), ltd., Croda Chemicals, Jaysynth Dyechem Ltd., Serene Dyestuff Ltd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. and Indokem Ltd.

Introduction Different types of protections are required during various kind of manual activities and the immediate layer surrounding human skin | body is invariably the textile material. Thus incorporating the desired technical performance functionality along with the inherent requirements of wearability, helps improve the protectiveness of the clothing. The basic requirements of apparel wear are - feel, comfort, light weight, strength, durability, dimensional stability, drape, etc while the functional requirements include permeability, insulation, conductivity, repellency, visibility, etc. The protective textiles comprises about 1.5% of the total textile market with an estimated value of US$ 5.5bn and the consumption is expected to grow at 10-12 % per year.The different types of protections from the textile clothing include Biological wear

- anti-contamination dress, surgical | hospital wear

Chemicalwear

- gloves, masks

Electromagnetic wear-uv radiation, sun protection

Email : ashok_athalye@atul.co.in

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Mechanical wear - cut, tear and puncture resistance Ballistic wear

- bullet, sharpenel

Thermal wear

- firefighter suit, space suit, high altitude-snow cover

Workwear

- high visibility jackets

Defence wear

- military uniforms

Defence wear has to exhibit unique performance characteristics due to the diverse hostile conditions under which it has to function. The ultimate success of combat troop depends not only on the physical fitness or the superiority of the arms and ammunition but also on the comfort, mobility and protection provided by the clothing. Fabrics are tailored to provide protection against operating weather conditions (heat, cold, wind, and rain) as well as detection from the surrounding terrain to achieve soldier's mobility, concealment and survival by camouflage effect. Efficacy of a camouflage is to allow clothing and military objects to blend into surrounding environment and blurring the characteristic contours of an object that can no longer be perceived against its background.The global requirement of camouflage fabrics is anticipated to be more than 350 mn meters annually for about 35 mn soldiers which includes army, air force, navy, coast guards and para military forces. Also, the camouflage textiles are used for concealing equipment like tents, jeep | truck covers, etc.A wide variety of camouflaged textile patterns have been developed to suit the need 31

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Athalye did his Ph.D. (Tech.) Textile Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.) and B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT (formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. He also did Diploma (DIM), Advanced Diploma (ADM) and specialization in Marketing Management (DMM) from I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He has a vast knowledge in the field of dyes and chemicals. A Fellow of Society of Dyers and Colorists, SDC, UK, Dr. Athalye has many research and review publications to his credit.

TEXPERIENCE to match different kinds of combat terrain such as woodland, snow, and desert. Camouflage clothing gives a unique effect by making it appear as a part of the natural surroundings. This provides concealment that allows soldiers to remain unnoticed by blending with their environment and minimise the risk of being seen by an enemy. Camouflage patterns aim to visually disrupt the shape of the body, so that the body outline is less easily recognised, and also to provide colors or areas of light and dark which approximate their surroundings. For this a specific shade gamut is required (earth tones such as khaki, grey, olive and brown) with excellent fastness properties to light, weathering, washing and rubbing. The print shape and area depend on application - small designs mainly for near camouflage while large designs for distant camouflage.

Traditionally, such camouflage was aimed at being effective in the visible region, however, with the wide spread use of night vision surveillance, camouflaging for NIR (Near Infra-Red) has become a critical requirement. This is achievedby comprising at least two areas of IR reflectivity, differing by 10%.It can conceal the object both in the visible (380 nm - 780 nm) and near infrared - NIR, (780 nm - 1200 nm) radiation range. The IRabsorbing vat dyes of the camouflage print generally ensure that wearers are largely 'invisible' to the nightvision devices. Quality and optimum performance arecritical forcamouflage textiles for military wear. This starts with proper selection of fibres, construction of fabric, and usage of specific dyes and chemicals to achieve expected performance effects. Cotton and blends with polyester followed by poly-wool blend fabrics constitute the major textile substrate used for camouflage protection. Woven fabrics with different weave structures like plain, matt, twill and satin/sateen are commonly used.Various application methods are adopted depending on the availability of equipment's. Exact and specific information regarding dyeing shades, print designs, area of coverage, etc. is not freely available as the Governments and defenceforces do not disclose such details. Similarly,the textile processors are also expected to maintain secrecy because of their non?disclosure agreements. The printing of vat dyes on cellulosic fabric involves following sequence ◆

Application of the vat dyes in a suitably thickened medium

◆

Reduction of the vat dye to the alkali leucoform

◆

Diffusion of the leuco vat dye through the thickening into the fibre

◆

Oxidation of the leuco vat to the original insoluble dye form

◆

Soaping to develop thefinal shade and desired fastness

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Steaming is the most important and critical operation in Radiation range

Wavelength

Requirements for camouflage

Method of detection

Visible spectrum

400 - 800 nm

Should match colour, texture and appearance of the background.

Visual detection by eye.

200- 400 nm

Should match optical properties of snow and ice.

Detection by UV detectors or eye

Near IR

750- 2000 nm

Should match reflectance of background when viewed by image intensifiers.

IR photography. Night vision devices

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TEXPERIENCE Vat printing. As soon as the printed and dried fabric enters the steamers, the steam condenses into water (contact of steam with cold fabric). Reducing agent dissolves into the moisture thus supplied. With rise in temp the reducing agent alongwith alkali reduces and solublises the vat dye. The dissolved leuco vat dye is then transferred from moist thickener film into fabric during steaming.The steam must be free from air to prevent decomposition and loss of reducing agent at high temperature which is required for complete reduction of dye for achieving optimum color yield. Given below are few examples along with the process and recipe used for developing camouflage designs. The dyed and printed fabric is applied with different finishing chemicals to impart comfort feel as well as desired functional effects like wrinkle free easy care, water-oil-stain repellency, moisture management, flame retardancy, UV protection, antimicrobial, insect repellent, sensory perception/odour absorbent, etc. by various thermo-chemical application methods like padding,

Over-print

NOVATIC NOVATIC NOVATIC NOVATIC NOVATIC NOVATIC

Brown NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE Bottle Green NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE

Yellow 4GL MD -3.5 g/l Brill Red 3B MD -1.0 g/l Olive TN MD - 5.5 g/l Yellow 3R MD - 1.84 g/l Brill Red 3B MD-0.24 g/l Olive TN MD - 1.85 g/l

Green NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE Brown NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE Black NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE NOVAPASTE

Summary Protective textiles with camouflage coloration for military wear is considered to be one of the fastest growing, high value segment.It helps protect the armed forces from visual and IR detection as well as ensures that the soldiers can perform to the best of their abilities under extreme climatic conditions. References 1.

www.technical textile.net

2. V.Rubeziene, G.Minkuviene, J. Baltusnikaite, I. Padleckiene., Vol. 15, No. 2. 2009, Material Science, "Development of Visible and Near Infrared Camouflage Textile Materials"3.

P.Osterman and M. Glogar, Oct 2008, Magic World of Textiles, "Olive Green haded military cloths in nature surrounding"".

Pattern

Brown RRD - 2.8% Pink R - 2.0% Black BG - 2.2% Yellow GCN - 2.5% Olive Green B - 0.9% Black BG - 4.0%

Golden Yellow GOK-0.09% Brown RRD - 2.2% Olive Green B - 2.8% Brown RRD - 2.8% Pink R - 2.0% Black BG - 2.2% Olive Green B - 2.0% Brown RRD - 2.0% Black BG - 5.0%

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ground Shade

coating, spraying.

Make more people aware of your brand and services May - june 2017

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. In the previous chapter, the readers were given a brief introduction to the emergence of different carbon forms. The history involved in the discovery of such wonder material- graphene and how it came into the existence of materials science. An outline of the extraordinary properties and its applications in diverse fields were also mentioned in the chapter. The present chapter deals with the introduction to this wonder material. It covers about the existence of graphene in this earth in various forms and also its method of production. A brief idea on the essential properties possessed by such material is being given to the readers. This chapter also comprehends the wide potential applications of graphene in the fields of material science and technology.

Chapter 2 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL: Introduction Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Graphene, a one-atom-thick planar sheet of sp2 bonded carbon atoms is densely packed in a honeycomb crystal lattice. It is the basic structural element of other allotropes, including graphite, carbon nanotubes, diamond and fullerenes. Carbon is one of the most abundantly found elements in the earth's crust. It has multiple allotropes and each one of them has proved to be very useful to mankind. Graphene is one of such allotropes. Its wide honeycomb network is the basic building block of other important allotropes. It can be stacked to form 3D graphite, rolled to produce 1D nanotubes and also wrapped to form 0D fullerenes. "Graphene" is a combination of "graphite" and the suffix-ene named by a German chemist Hanns-Peter Boehm who is considered as the pioneer of graphene research. The term graphene first appeared in 1987 to describe single sheets of graphite as a constituent of graphite intercalation compounds (GIC); which is no other than the crystalline salt of the intercalant and graphene. It can be considered as the "infinite alternant" - a six member carbon ring polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon.

physics by P. R. Wallace, National Research Council of Canada in 1947. It paved the starting point for good understanding of the 3D graphite. Scientists from different nooks of the world had theorized about graphene for several years. It had also been produced in minute quantities for centuries. It was originally observed in electron microscopes in 1962 but was studied only while supported on metal surfaces. One of the first patents attributing to the production of graphene was filed in October 2002 and was granted in 2006. It contained the first large scale production process of graphene. Two years later in 2004, the material was rediscovered, isolated and characterized by Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov at the University of Manchester, UK. They extracted single-atom-thick crystallites from bulk graphite onto thin silicon dioxide (SiO 2) on a silicon wafer by a process called micromechanical cleavage or Scotch tape technique. Finally, this groundbreaking experiment in such wonder material resulted in Geim and Novoselov to be the Nobel laureates in 2010.

Graphene was already studied theoretically in the textbook as an example for calculations in solid state 34

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TEXNOTE Production Methods Chemical Exfoliation This method involves the synthesis of graphene oxide from graphite as the starting material by oxidation process followed by the reduction of graphene oxide into reduced graphene oxide (r-GO). Graphite is chemically modified into a water dispersible intermediary graphene oxide by oxidizing using Hummer's method. The biggest advantage of this process is its low cost and large scalability.

Forms of Graphene Graphene a single atom thick hexagonal networked sheet of carbon atoms can be suspended freely or adhered on a foreign substrate. Its lateral dimensions may vary from several nanometers to microscale. A single layer graphene i.e. monolayer is the purest form till now and is very much advantageous for high technology electronic applications. Similarly, Bi-layer and Tri-layer graphene, two and three layers respectively can exhibit several other properties with the increase in the number of layers. Few-Layer or Multi-Layered graphene consist of >4 layers of well defined, countable, stacked graphene layers. They can be in sheet, films or flakes form and are mainly used for mechanical reinforcement in composite materials. Graphene can also exist in the form of oxides commonly termed as Graphene Oxide (GO) which is usually a monolayer material with high oxygen content, where C/O atomic ratio is generally in between 2 to 3. It is produced by oxidation of graphite and exfoliation of graphite which is followed by panoptic oxidation of the basal planes of carbon sheets. The membranes are mostly prepared using GO useful in allowing water to pass through but restrict harmful gases. There are some other kinds of graphene based materials which are basically termed as Graphene nanomaterials. These materials include Graphene nanoribbons, Graphene nanosheets, Graphene nanoflakes, etc. They are defined as two-dimensional graphene materials with a thickness and/or lateral dimension of usually less than 100 nm. They are not an integral part of carbon material but are freely suspended or adhered on a foreign substrate. They are most effective for electrically conductive composites.

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Mechanical Exfoliation This method is most popularly known as the "Scotch Tape" method by Geim and Novoselov of University of Manchester, UK. They used an adhesive tape to break the graphite layers into individual graphene layers. Multiple exfoliation steps are generally required to produce single layers. It can produce graphene having the lowest number of defects and highest electron mobility. Thermal Decomposition and Chemical Vapour Deposition Chemical Vapour Deposition of graphene on transition metal films is the another-substrate based method where usually silicon wafers or nickel films are used with methane gas as a source. The solubility of carbon in the transition metal reduces upon cooling of the substrate and a thin film of carbon is precipitated on the surface. De Heer and his group at the Georgia Institute of Technology developed an epitaxial method in which graphene is produced from the high-temperature reduction of silicon carbide at around 10000C in ultrahigh vacuum, leaving very small amounts of graphitized carbon. This process is technically referred to as "Thermal Decomposition of Graphene". The biggest advantage of these two techniques is that they are capable of producing a single layer of graphene over an entire wafer and provide the easiest way to integrate the material into current semiconductor devices. Properties Mechanical Graphene is the strongest material that has been ever discovered in the world. It is about 200 times stronger than the strongest steel with a tensile strength of around 130 GPa and a stiffness of about 1 TPa. Apart from being the strongest material, it has been also claimed 35

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 1: Graphene hexagonal lattice

TEXNOTE to be the lightest till found on earth, weighing only about 0.77 mg/sq. m. Electrical Graphene is a very high electrically conductive material with zero-gap semi-conductivity, because of its conduction and valence bands coinciding with each other at the Dirac points. A carbon atom is having total six electrons each, two in the inner shell and four in the outermost shell. In Graphene, each Carbon atom is bonded to three other atoms due to sp2 - hybridization thus leaving one free electron available for the electronic conduction. The electron mobility of such material is found to be very high even at room temperature. Optical Graphene produces a very opaque atomic monolayer in a vacuum because it has a very good ability to absorb approximately 2.3% of the white light intensity independent of the wavelength in the optical domain. An addition of another layer of Graphene also increases the amount of white light absorbed by approximately the same value. This is due to the unusual low-energy electronic structure of monolayer graphene that features electron and hole conical bands meeting each other at the Dirac point.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Thermal Graphene has a very good thermal conductivity which is dominated by phonons and has been measured to be approximately 5000 W/m/K. It can conduct heat almost 10 times more than copper where copper has a thermal conductivity of around 500 W/m/K. Applications Energy Storage One area of research that is being vastly studied is energy storage. One of the common problems observed is in the large storage of energy in batteries and capacitors when it is not being used. These energy storage solutions have been developing at a much slower rate. A battery can potentially hold a lot of energy but takes a lot of time to charge whereas a capacitor can be charged very quickly but can't hold that much of energy for a long time. The solution will be of developing energy storage components like either a supercapacitor or a battery that is able to provide both of these positive characteristics without compromise. Presently, scientists are working on improving the capacities of lithium ion batteries by incorporating graphene to enhance storage capacity with much bet36

ter longevity and charge rate. Graphene based supercapacitors and lithium ion batteries can be used in much higher energy usage applications in smartphones, laptops, tablets, computers with significantly lower levels of size and weight.

Figure 2: Graphene as a battery

Photovoltaic Cell Even with a very low amount of light absorption (around 2.3% of white light) very high electron mobility suggests that graphene can be used as an alternative to silicon or Indium tin oxide in the manufacture of photovoltaic cells. Silicon cells are extensively used in the manufacture of photovoltaic cells but are very costly compared to graphene based cells. When silicon turns light into electricity it produces a photon for every electron produced resulting in huge loss of potential energy as heat. Also, it is wavelength specific whereas graphene is efficient on all wavelengths of light. Graphene based photovoltaic cells being very flexible and ultra-thin are helpful in recharging mobile phones, retro-fitted photovoltaic window screens or curtains to help power the entire home.

Figure 3: Graphene as a solar cell May - June 2017

TEXNOTE Ultrafiltration Another remarkable property of graphene is that it allows water to pass through it while it is almost totally impervious to liquids and gases (even relatively small helium molecules). Thus graphene can be used as an ultrafiltration medium acting as a barrier between two substances. The benefit of using such material is that it is only single atom thick. A team of researchers at Columbia University have researched a lot to manufacture monolayer graphene filters with pore sizes as small as 5 nm (usually advanced nanoporous membranes have pore sizes of 30-40 nm). Presently, graphene is being used in water filtration systems, desalination systems, etc.

Optical Electronics One of the most important areas where graphene technology is being widely used on a commercial scale is optoelectronics like touchscreens, liquid crystal displays (OLED), and organic light emitting diodes (OLEDs). For a material to be used in optoelectronic applications, it must be able to transmit more than 90% of light as well as to have good electrical conductive properties exceeding 106Wm, therefore, having low electrical resistance. Graphene is a very transparent material as it can optically transmit up to 97% of light. It is also a highly conductive material. These properties make Graphene to be highly effective in the replacement of ITO. It is a high strength material with a very good flexibility making it inevitable to be used in optoelectronic applications.

Figure 4: Graphene as a membrane

Figure 6: Graphene in optoelectronics

Textiles and Composites Graphene is a very strong, stiff and lightweight material. Currently, aerospace engineers are incorporating carbon fibre in the manufacture of aircraft as it is also very strong and light but not more than that of graphene. It is being utilized to replace carbon fibre and steel in the aircraft, improving fuel efficiency, range and reducing weight. Owing to its high electric properties it can also be used to coat aircraft surface material to prevent electrical damage caused by thunder strikes. Graphene coating can also be used to measure strain rate, notifying the pilot of any changes in the stress levels of aircraft wings. High strength requirement in body armours of military personnel and vehicles is a challenging requirement for the application of graphene.

Texttreasure Some of the brightest minds in the country can be found on the last benches of the classroom. Figure 5: Graphene as biosensors May - june 2017

- Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam 37

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Bioengineering It will certainly be a field in which graphene will become an essential part of in the near future. Enormous researches in this area suggest that the coming decade will see widespread use of graphene in biological applications. With graphene offering a very large surface area, high electrical conductivity, thinness and strength can make a good material for the development of fast and efficient bioelectric sensory devices, with the ability to monitor glucose levels, haemoglobin levels, cholesterol and even DNA sequencing. Due to its molecular make-up and potential biocompatibility, it can eventually be utilized in tissue engineering.

TEXNOTE

Figure 7: Graphene in aircraft

Researchers at the Cambridge Graphene Centre (CGC) at the University of Cambridge, UK, working in collaboration with scientists at Jiangnan University, China are developing graphene based inks for cotton to produce a conductive textile. The work suggests a number of commercial opportunities for graphene-based inks, ranging from personal health technology, high-performance sportswear, military garments, wearable technology/computing and fashion.

Summary Graphene the well famed two-dimensional (2D) carbon allotrope, is as versatile a material as ever discovered on earth. Its astonishing properties as the lightest and strongest material in addition to good conduction of heat and electricity better than anything else is making it attributable to a wide area of applications in the fields of material science. Initially, it is being used to enhance the performance and efficiency of current materials and substances, but in near future, it will also be developed in conjunction with other 2D crystals to create even more amazing compounds to suit an even wider range of applications. The research on this wonder material is still in its early stage and deserves impetus to discover its true potential. Bibliography 1. Aissa B., Memon N. K., Ali A and Khraisheh M. K., Frontiers in Materials, 2, 1-19, (2015). 2. Allen M. J., Tung V. C. and Kaner R. B., Chem. Rev., 110, 132-145, (2010).

Mr. Saptarshi Maiti is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Graphene, Dendritic structures, Nanotechnology, Textile dyeing and Green processing of Textiles. Mr. Pintu Pandit is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Graphene, Plasma Technology, Nanotechnology, Natural dyeing and Multifunctional finishing of Textile materials.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ms. Geetal Mahajan is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Fermentation Technology in Textiles, Textile colouration, Speciality finishes, Natural dyes, Green processing of Textiles using Natural products. Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of Textiles, Medical Textiles, Graphene, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for Textiles and Cosmetics, Novel Textile Processing Techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 4 patents and published around 150 papers in journals of National and International repute. Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli is a senior most Professor and former Head of the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology as well as former Dean at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. He is a Fellow of CSIR-CNRS (France), Maharashtra Academy of Science, Honorary F.T.A and Shiksha Ratna. His research areas of interest are Natural dyes, Plasma Technology, Nanotechnology, Graphene, Super absorbents and Speciality finishes. He has guided 120 Master's and Doctoral students with over 370 publications/conference presentations and edited 25 books. He is an Independent Director of Siyaram Silk Mills, Chairman of Editorial Board of JTA and a Managing Trustee of Baha'i Lotus Temple, Delhi. 38

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NEWS

India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 Summary of Summit 2017 The grand success of the First India & South Asia Textile Summit held in the city of Mumbai at Four Seasons Hotel on 7th & 8th of June, 2017 along with ECV International, China had excellent response from the technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders, educationist from the participating from 12 countries as well as local Govt. dignitaries prompted the Textile Association (India) to take up the challenge of organizing the India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017. DAY-1, 7th June 2017 India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 was jointly organized at Mumbai, India by The Textile Association (India) TAI and ECV International, China alongwith knowledge partner Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT) who has assisted conference organising at each level. The Conference has attempted to discuss various Global issues and how to maintain business and explore strength of each and every country in Asia region.

(TPP), TTIP (EU-USA) is in the freezer. (TTIP), NAFTA (US-Canada-Mexico) might be re-negociated. (NAFTA), CETA (EU-Canada) signed but not after strong opposition at the end (CETA), Brexit, Import duties in the US? It is very important that Asian countries get together particularly India, China, Korea & Vietnam etc and conduct business on their own strength and each one of them should play with their strength. Countries like Bangladesh, Myanmar, Sri Lank are merging as new destination for manufacturing. Bangladesh has shown excellent results in spite of various limiting factors. This Conference was enthusiastically attended by lumaneries from texlite and allied sectors from about twelve countries making it truly a Global Summit. Also, members of TAI, faculty and students from ICT, members of TITOBA, leading technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders and businessmen turned out in great numbers for the India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 with great expectation of being exposed to sea of technological advancements and knowledge in multifarious exponents of textiles from galaxy of speakers.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI delivering his welcome address

May - june 2017

Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS lightening the lamp

The tone was appropriately set by the Chief Guest Dr. (Mrs.) Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner of India who spoke very high of the cohesive efforts of the textile technocrats from TAI, ECV and ICT to organize such a mega event in the country and to nurture a sincere thirst for global knowledge in textiles in pursuit of attaining excellence in the world market. She expressed her satisfaction that there has been a progressive trends in Textiles in respect of global competitiveness level. 39

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

President, The Textile Association (India) Mr. Arvind Sinha mentioned in his inaugural and welcome address that in current situation where world is facing many issues such as Global Macro economic conditions were volatile, Geo political tensions, polarisation, populism, Safety and security issues with impact on traveling and buying Shifts in consumer behaviour, Very competitive market, High pressure on margins, Politicians and public opinion in major countries not in favour of globalisation, Trans Pacific Partnership deal blown up by US.

NEWS She encouraged the participants, particularly the institutions and the industry leaders to invest in basic research, innovations and sophistication to meet global challenges in keeping with Government support. She also invited all participants and speakers to the mega event organised Ministry of Textiles in Ghandinagar on 30th June, 1st July & 2nd July 2017. The Textile Association (India) also honoured dignitaries from Textile Industry for their outstanding contributions for Textile Industry for so long. Dignitaries honoured were Shri. Suresh Kotak, Shri R.D. Udeshi, Shri Rajeev Gopal, Dr. M.D. Teli, Shri Subhash Bhargava, Shri Kasper Nossent, Shri Vidyut Acharya, Shri Faruque Hassan & Shri Felix Fernando.

Dr. M.D. Teli is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Subhash Bhargava is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta Shri Suresh Kotak is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri R.D. Udeshi is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Rajeev Gopal is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta 40

Shri Kasper Nossent is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Vidyut Acharya is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta May - June 2017

NEWS

Shri Faruque Hassan is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Felix Fernando is felicitated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Plenary Session -I

Second speaker of the Plenary Session was Mr. Shailesh Martis from TEXPROCIL, he informed to audience about various FTAs India has their influence in Textile Industry. He also expressed various incoming FTAs which will provide boost to business from India and presented business prospective for India.

Mr. Kasper Nossent of Dyecoo Industries informed the audience that they are manufacturing dyeing machine which does not use water, CO2 gas is used instead and it is a huge green environment initiative supported by Colourtex, NIKE shoes and IKEA.

First speaker of the Plenary Session was Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. Mr. Udeshi spoke very well and inform audience that many global and international factors are supporting India and India is leading Industrial growth from the front. He also expressed various points and discussions being held for new venture and expressed India's future is very good and coming years will see a new India emerging as Textile Power House. May - june 2017

Mr. Suresh Kotak mentioned that there is lot of research happening for Cotton, India has developed very superior quality of cotton which has high strength can 41

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He is also presented economics of the machine and waterless dyes which could be the moral of business in coming years. This is purely a green environment initiative.

NEWS be used for industrial textiles. He also mentioned that India is an agricultural country and each bale of cotton generates employment for poor people. Quality standards are sometimes issues however, lot of controls are exercised by various agencies for quality improvement and due course of time we will see the facts. He expressed future cotton is very bright and India will continue their position as leading supplier of cotton fiber, fabric & yarn. Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Former Chairman, SRTEPC has really shared his experiences and various issues they are facing. He also mentioned that initiatives of current government and particularly ministry of textiles and definitely bringing good results and improvement in our supply based.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Atul Ujagar, Country Director NIKE India, Sri Lanka & Pakistan shared his many experiences and expressed that India is coming up a trustworthy supplier and there is a tremendous improvement in Indian quality in last few years. However, he mentioned that the volumes are not available in India and there is need to extend manufacturing capability. He also mentioned that cost are going up in China but for a larger volume destination in China.

Mr. Shirish Srivastva, Country Manager- Apparel Sourcing (India) Puma Global Sourcing shared his experiences and mentioned India is coming up very well but still far away comparing to China and other countries. But feel is positive and it will take few more years before we can buy larger volumes from India.

He is also mentioned that we need to built capacities and reduced our delivery time, ready stocks generally not available and foreign buyers knows if they have to buy textiles from India delivery takes time and there can be unforeseen circumstances which might delay that delivery.

Post lunch there was a very powerful panel discussion on Analysis of Scenario of Textile in South Asia. It was moderated by Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. And the Panellists were Mr. Faruque Hassan, Sr. Vice President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association, Bangladesh, Mr. Felix Fernando, Chairman, Sri Lanka Apparel Exports Association, Mr. Shailesh Martis, Joint Director, Texprocil, Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, Textile Association (India) & Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, AEPC. This was indeed a very powerful discussions. Mr. Faruque from Bangladesh briefed about Bangladesh

May - June 2017

NEWS textile industry, he mentioned that industries becoming very serious about compliances and environmental issues and most of the investments which is happening in Bangladesh is from Bangladesh. Road transportation between India and Bangladesh is still not upto the mark, waiting time at check post are eight days, so many deliveries are routed through sea which is faster. He mentioned that in Bangladesh most of the fabrics is coming from China but gradually manufactures are also buying from India.

Mr. Calvin Woolley, Global Supplier Development Leader, IKEA expressed IKEAs quality control systems, their commitment to quality and green energy initiative.

Mr. Felix Fernando from Sri Lanka informs that their main products ladies under garments and they are also coming up in ladies outer wears and lot of investments coming from China. Their shipping routes are very good and textile industry is emerging as second best industry after tourism. Sri Lanka is looking at India with great hopes for their future development.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Chairman and Managing Director, Colorant Limited, very very interesting presentation indicating past, present and future of Indian Dyestuff Industry. The whole narration was fantastic and audience were very impressed. He also expressed there is a great future of Dyestuff Industry.

Mr. Shailesh Martis informed audience there is a growth in volumes but India is far behind then China and there need to be capacity building & better quality control in order to gain volumes. Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, Textile Association (India) informed that capacity building is a major assignment which we all should commit, we should have few large projects 400 high quality looms along with state of art processing house, producing 2 million meters of fabric every day. This will bring lot of high volume purchasers, growth stories in China, Bangladesh & Korea etc these all will directed by huge super markets in USA and another places.

He also mentioned that they are opening stores in India and showed us presentation slides of their upcoming stores near Hyderabad Metro station. He also expressed many details about IKEAs ongoing commitment for quality.

Mr. Ishtiaq Ali, Senior Consul and Leading Lawyer, Orbit Law Company had discussed important of India Laws and how friendly Indian Lawyers, it treats Indian and foreigners at same level and Indian Law is known for his transparency. He mentioned many interesting points regarding new Insolvency Laws in India. DAY-2, June 8th, 2017

L to R: Mrs Chandrima Chatterjee, Mr. Varun Singhi & Ms Rakhi Vashisht

L to R: Mr. Subhash Bhargava & Mr. Ishtiaq Ali May - june 2017

Day-2 started with Mr. Varun Singhi, leading consultant of Logistics & Supply Chain, Ex-Gap explained the problems with Indian Supply Chain system where thinks can go wrong for no reason. It is very difficult to come deliveries in time, shipments in time, most of the ports are not ready to handle mother vessels, in few states connectivity to the ports are considerably and other ports are also following however this is a very long process will take couple of years. 43

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee shared her experiences in garmenting in India and she supported all the panellists in agreeing need for huge capacities, quality fabrics, state of art quality control set ups etc and she informed that AEPC is already working the directions seriously.

NEWS Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor AEPC informed the audience there is a tremendous development in garment industry, new trends, innovations and new products such as sportswear are increasing, development process also become very fast and government has launched through AEPC lot of new schemes to assist new development and innovation. Ms. Rakhi Vashisht, Head of Raw Material, VF Corporation expressed difficulties in managing supply chain from India, time deliveries is big issue and volumes are missing. She has expressed the need of modern facilities and large volumes is required in India now. She also added that situation is changing in India and may be in next five years India will be able to compete very well with China etc.

is a very big exercise which will take few months to get settle. Mr. Faruque Hassan, Sr. Vice President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters, Bangladesh. Mr. Faruque Hassan briefed the audience about Bangladesh, business procurement and how Bangladesh has faced many hurdles of compliances. He also mentioned that new investments are coming up but from Bangladesh only and they are extremely focus on garment industry. Mr. Felix Fernando, Chairman, Sri Lanka Textile Exporter Association given lot of details about the textile industry in Sri Lanka. He also mentioned Textile Industry is second Tourism in Sri Lanka and whatever textile sectors China is vacating it is coming to Sri Lanka. Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. presented a detailed report on technical textiles in India, the progress is slow but scope is very large and with attention from Government of India it will do very well.

L to R: Mr. Felic Fernando, Mr. Arvind Bhansali, Dr. Sanjay Muthal, Mr. Avinash Mayekar & Mr. Faruque Hassan

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Sanjay Muthal, Executive Director, RGF Management Research has informed the audience that world is changing and so is all practices, business styles, man power requirements. We are all becoming digital and getting modernized and computerized in day by day, therefore the human behavior is also changing drastically and there is a strong need for everyone to change and time is becoming very fast so everybody needs performer. Mr. Arvind Bhansali, Senior Vice President - Taxation, Reliance Industries Ltd. made a very powerful and high opening presentation on GST. He expressed this

L to R: Mr. M.M. Chockalingam, Mr. Mrugank Paranjape, Mr. Suresh Kotak & Dr. Hemant Sonare

2nd Panel discussion India Cotton Industry way ahead presented in the panel were Mr. Suresh Kotak, Moderator, Mr. Manish Dagga, Dr. Hemant Sonare, Mr. Mrugank Paranjape & Mr. M. M. Chockalingam, big value contents for cotton in the panel discussion, huge opportunities, good researches will ultimately give very good results. Shri Suresk Kotak shared his experiences and said the future of India cotton is very bright.

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NEWS

L to R: Mr. Rajiv Pande, Mr. K.T. Ramakrishnan & Mr. Pradeep Mukherjee

View of the audience

Mr. Rajiv Pande, President, PERF (Brand of Rahman Industries Limited), Noida presented a powerful scenario on sportswear, he mentioned that India needs to gain substantial portion of the sportswear market. Mr. K. T. Ramakrishnan, Head of Operation Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) India & Sri Lanka, he briefed the audience WRAP system and compliances and expressed its important. He is already becoming very popular internationally. Mr. Pradeep Mukherjee, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd. He briefed and mentioned on the Sourcing Strategy of International Buyers. He highlighted the World Trade growth, International buyers, Salient points for first screening, Normal lead time for entering vendor, Pro-active steps possible by suppliers etc. in his presentation.

View of the audience

Conference ended vote of thanks by Mr. V. D. Zope, Chairman and President, Mr. Arvind Sinha, The Textile Association (India) expressed a great thanks to ECV, participants & sponsors for supporting the conference.

73rd All India Textile Conference Hosted by

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Vidarbha Unit Journal of the TEXTILE Association

January 05-06, 2018 Venue: Vasantrao Deshpande Sabhagriha, Nagpur, India Contribute by way of Sponsoring, Advertisements & Enrolling Delegates Contact: Dr. Hemant Sonare, Hon. Secretary, Organizing Chairman of Conference 26, Raghukul, Pragati Colony, Near Pragati Hall, Chhatrapati Squre, Wardha Road, Nagpur - 440 015 M.: 9860930380, 9822573341, E-mail: hemantsonare@gmail.com, May - june 2017

NEWS

A 12 UNIFLOC - The Art of Automatic Bale Opening The A 12 UNIfloc is the new automatic bale opener from Rieter. It is part of the blowroom line VARIOline and supplies the downstream machines and cards with material. With the A 12, the VARIOline attains a production rate of over 2 000 kg/h. The machine has been completely redesigned. With the A 12, Rieter relies on a design that is also used in the Formula One.

A 12 UNIfloc the modern and efficient art of bale opening

The construction of the UNIfloc is based on the socalled "Monocoque" design. This is familiar from the field of aircraft construction or the Formula One. The result is a stable, maintenance-friendly machine for highest production. A further feature of the A 12 is the innovative bale scanning. The take-off unit determines the different heights of the bales by means of scanning force measurement and quickly equals them out. Through this uniform take-off, the machine achieves its highest possible production rate in the shortest time. Inside the take-off unit, there is a roller with numerous teeth which gently opens the bales into very small tufts. This is the basis for effective cleaning and dedusting in the subsequent blowroom process. Remarkable is that the A 12 is extremely efficient, even with these very small tufts. In the A 12, motors and servo-units of the latest technology are used and this also enables the UNIfloc to recover energy during production. The brake power which is generated during reversal of the take-off roller is fed back into the electricity grid.

Patented wobble disc take-off roller in the take-off unit. For gentle, continuous extraction of the tufts

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Birla Cellulose Fibers Earn USDA Biobased Certification Grasim Industries Limited a flagship company of Aditya Birla Group has earned the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Certified Bio-based Product label for its products- Birla Viscose, Birla Modal & Birla Excel. "We applaud Grasim Industries Ltd. for earning the USDA Certified Bio-based Product label," said Kate Lewis, USDA BioPreferred Program. "Products from Grasim Industries Ltd. are contributing to an ever expanding marketplace that adds value to renewable agriculture commodities, creates jobs in rural communities, and decreases our reliance on petroleum." Third-party verification for a product's bio-based content is administered through the USDA Bio-Preferred Program. One of the goals of the Bio-Preferred Program is to increase the development, purchase and use of bio-based products. The USDA Certified Bio-based Product label displays a product's bio-based content, which is the portion of a product that comes from a renewable source, such as plant, 46

animal, marine, or forestry feedstocks. Utilizing renewable, bio-based materials displaces the need for non-renewable petroleum based chemicals. Bio-based products, through petroleum displacement, have played an increasingly important role in reducing greenhouse gas emissions that exacerbate global climate change. Bio-based products are cost-comparative, readily available, and perform as well as or better than their conventional counterparts. Speaking on the occasion Managing Director of Grasim Industries Ltd., Mr. Dilip Gaur, said "The USDA Bio-based certification is another milestone reached in our Sustainability Journey& strengthening our belief that Sustainability is at the core of our business strategy." Chief Marketing Officer of Birla Cellulose Mr. Rajeev Gopal further said, "This certification reconfirms the natural origin of our products & will enhance the confidence of the value chain players in delivering bio-based products." May - June 2017

NEWS

Digital printer producer Colorjet creates home environment at Heimtextil 2017 "We have introduced the TXF digital textile printer, primarily for home textile applications and fashion designers. The TXF can print on all types of fabrics, including polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon or wool," Mr. Smarth Bansal, Senior Product Manager at ColorJet India Ltd said. "This has been made possible since the printer is apt for printing with Pigmentinkwhich opens huge avenues for different home textile applications," he added.

ColorJet India Ltd has created a home environment at its stall no H370 in hall 12 at the Heimtextil 2017 exhibition in New Delhi. Products on display includedbedsheets, pillow cover, curtains, table covers, etc. The fabrics used in these applications have been printed on its recently launched TXF digital textile printer. ColorJet offeredlive demonstration of home textile printing on applications like pillow covers, table covers, bedsheets, etc on the TXF. The ColorJet stall displayed a homely atmosphere due to the varied and multi-coloured fabrics on display. On show were chairs, sofas and tables draped in colourful fabrics printed on the TXF. Visitors to the stall seemed to be extremely delighted on seeing the colourful home environment.

For more information please visit www.colorjetgroup.com Press Contacts: Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad, India Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net Smarth Bansal Senior Product Manager ColorJet India Ltd Noida, India Cell: +91 98102-39602 Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion May - june 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Colourjet Stall

About ColorJet India Ltd: ColorJet India Ltd, the largest manufacturer of digital inkjet printers in India markets its products in 14 countries worldwide. Founded in 2004, the company maintains its operations via two manufacturing facilities and sales offices spread across seven countries, which include India, China, Bangladesh, UAE and Sri Lanka. To-date, ColorJet has installed and implemented over 4,000 of its printing solutions and products across 315 cities around the world backed by a strong 278 member team, of which almost 100 are in technical related functions.

NEWS

ColorJet to Showcase Digital Textile Printer TXF with Japanese Technology at Heimtextil ◆ ◆ ◆

TXF most suitable for printing on home textiles TXF apt for printing with all inks, whether Disperse, Reactive or Pigment Printer can print on all type of fabrics like polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon and wool

TXF Di

materials, thinner fabrics and also stretchable fabric materials such as knits. The digital printer is apt for printing with Pigment inks which can print practically on any type of fabric including polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon or wool. Pigment printing has an advantage as the fabric does not necessarily require pre- or post-treatment, thereby saving on production times and reducing water pollution. The TXF is also available to work with Reactive inks for printing onto natural fabrics and also Disperse inks for printing onto polyester fabrics.The printer offers speeds of up to 24 square metres per hour with pigment Inks. The printer can achieve print resolutions of up to 1,440dpi.

gital Printer

After the successful launch of the ColorJet TXF digital textile printer at FESPA Hamburg, Germany in May 2017, ColorJet India Ltd, India's largest manufacturer of digital printers showcased the TXF at the Heimtextil exhibition which was held on June 20-22, 2017 at PragatiMaidan in New Delhi in hall 12, booth no. H370. ColorJet showcased the live demonstration of home textile printing on products like bedsheets, pillow cover, curtains, table covers, etc. on TXF. ColorJet has manufactured the digital printer incorporating the latest Japanese technology, which imparts the printer with the power to print brilliantly and flawlessly, with reduced maintenance.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Following the launch at FESPA Hamburg, ColorJet India has now started shipping the TXF digital printer to printers in the European, including the UK market. The TXF printer which is equipped with Epson printheads gives variable dot control for achieving smooth gradations and is also belt driven, which makes it suitable for printing fabrics including bulky textured

"ColorJet introduced this digital textile printer, primarily for home textile applications and fashion designers. Since the printer is apt for printing with all inks, whether Pigment, Reactive or Disperse, all types of fabrics, including polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon or wool can be printed which opens huge avenues for different applications," Mr.Smarth Bansal, Senior Product Manager at ColorJet India Ltd informed. For more information please visit www.colorjetgroup.com Press Contacts: Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad, India Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net Smarth Bansal Senior Product Manager ColorJet India Ltd Noida, India Cell: +91 98102-39602 Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

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NEWS

Com4® yarn seminar 2017 Compact Yarn Know-How On October 5 and 6, the Com4® yarn seminar 2017 will be held in Winterthur (Switzerland). In the seminar, experts from Rieter and Uster Technologies AG will impart knowledge on the day-to-day textile activities of yarn traders and downstream processors. Core focus is on the properties of the yarns and their influence on the fabrics.

participants as soon as the samples are touched and compared with one another. Understanding Quality Data When buying yarns, it is important to know and understand the determining quality data. An expert from USTER will give detailed information and help with their interpretation. As the leading manufacturer of textile testing devices, USTER has comprehensive knowledge and offers tools to create textile quality profiles. Registration The Com4® yarn seminar will be held in English. Registration is possible up to September 08, 2017 under: www.rieter.com/index.php

Attractive Expertise Rieter offers seminar participants the opportunity to not only see the four different spinning technologies, but also to virtually experience them. The yarns spun from them show clear differences in their structure and the differences are also reflected in the fabric. These correlations will become clear to the

COM4® in Brief The Com4® yarns satisfy the highest demands. Their consistently good quality ensures competitiveness in a dynamic market. Thanks to mature technologies, yarn production in Rieter ring, compact, rotor and air-jet spinning machines achieves a high level of efficiency and realizes an excellent yarn quality. In downstream processing and in the end product, the advantages are shown, for instance, in low fiber fly, high tenacity and excellent pilling values. The family of the Com4® yarns consists of Com4®ring, Com4®compact, Com4®rotor and Com4®jet.

ITMF Annual Conference 2017 "Technology, Trade, Climate - Orientation in Disruptive Times" On 14th to 16th September, 2017 at Bali, Indonesia ITMF is much honored that Mrs. Sri Mulyani Indrawati, Minister of Finance, Republic of Indonesia, will deliver a keynote address at the Opening Session of this year's ITMF Annual Conference. On the second day, Mr. Jaap de Hoop Scheffer, Professor of International Relations and Diplomatic Affairs, May - june 2017

former Secretary General of NATO and former Foreign Minister of the Netherlands, will deliver a keynote speech with the title "Technology, Trade, Climate: Reshaping the Geopolitical Landscape". The ITMF Annual Conference 2017 will be held in Bali/Indonesia from September 14-16, 2017 hosted by the Indonesian Textile Industry Association (API). The general theme of the conference "Technology, Trade, 49

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Com4® yarn seminar 2016 Yarn determines the characteristics of a fabric. Someone who wants to select the most suitable yarn needs the relevant knowledge. In the Com4® yarn seminar 2017, experts from Rieter and USTER therefore provide the necessary textile know-how and give insights into the world of yarns and fabrics.

Rieter also holds Com4® yarn seminars in China and India. Further information can be requested under: www.rieter.com/index.php

NEWS Climate - Orientation in Disruptive Times" indicates that the global textile industry is facing a variety of challenges resulting from changes that are often described as disruptive because their consequences are fundamentally changing the way textiles are produced, sourced, sold or bought. With a long and complicated supply chain the textile industry as a whole - from fiber to retail - is required to look holistically at these disruptive challenges as most of them require a comprehensive understanding and often a cooperative approach to develop an efficient and sustainable supply chain. In disruptive times, a better understanding of the entire textile supply chain is becoming more important than ever. Therefore, the ITMF Annual Conference is inviting experts from the entire textile value chain. Approximately 250 participants from around the world will attend. The conference will cover the following areas in open general sessions: ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Fibers Textile Supply Chain Retail/E-commerce Technical Textiles & Nonwovens

Since the conference will be held in Indonesia, a special focus will be on the Indonesian fibers, textile and apparel industry. In this context, ITMF is delighted that both the Minister of Industry, Mr. Erlangga Hartarto and the Minister of Trade, Mr. Enggartiasto Lukita, will address the conference. Furthermore, speakers from the following companies and organizations have confirmed their participation:

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Asia Pacific Fibers, Indonesia Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA) Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants (CETI), France China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC) Euromonitor, UK Gherzi, Switzerland Lenzing, Austria PCI Wood Mackenzie, Malaysia Indorama, Indonesia Institute for Frontier Materials, Australia International Cotton Association (ICA), UK Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) McKinsey, Japan Alvanon, USA Pan Brothers, Indonesia Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg, USA Sritex, Indonesia Unitex, Belgium 88Spares, Indonesia

Prior to the Annual Conference, ITMF offers a Seminar on "Cotton FR Finishing - How to Add Value" on September 12th in Bali. The Seminar is conducted by Prof. Marc van Parys (UNITEX, Belgium), Mr. Marcel Prinsen (Metal B.V., Netherlands) and Mr. Loek de Vries (TenCate, Netherlands). For more information about the conference and the seminar, please see: http://www.itmf.org/conferences/annual-conference2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Machinery and textiles for a better future On the occasion of its 125th anniversary, the VDMA has put together a series of multimedia reports. Published on the new website https://humans-machinesprogress.comthe reports show: Machines are not an end in itself for the machinery engineering industry. Regina Brückner, Vice-Chairperson of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and Managing Associate of Brückner Trockentechnik, explains: "Machines are the means to make progress come true for people and to meet challenges like energy, mobility, infrastructure and health. Textiles and textile machinery play - sometimes hidden - a major role in improving daily life." Textile machinery is,for example,a starting point for 50

resource-efficient construction. Lightweight construction materials based on knitted, woven or nonwovens fabrics enable enormous savings potential in aerospace. 1,974 litres of kerosene can be saved per aircraft per year with 20 kilograms less weight on the A320. Infrastructure maintenance is currently time consuming and costly because the reinforced concrete that has been used in many structures, contains steel reinforcing bar that can corrode, making the concrete structure crack. Textiles offer a robust alternative by replacing steel with carbon. Carbon concrete is durable and versatile in its uses. The carbon used to reinforce concrete is even stronger than steel, but at the same time much lighter and more durable since it does not May - June 2017

NEWS corrode. Building elements made of carbon concrete can thus be thinner, reducing demand for raw materials and, as a result, energy use and CO2 emissions are cut almost by half. These materials that help maintaining bridges and buildings are made on warp knitting machines, where yarn is processed into net-like cores or even three-dimensional spacer fabrics. In medical technology, textiles play a vital part, too. The use of textile-based implants, such as stents, heart valve replacements and artificial cartilages or tissues, is growing strongly in modern surgical techniques. Garments with integrated sensors are already commercially available, including T-shirts that can measure pulse, breathing and body movement. In the working world, textiles are both ubiquitous and practically invisible: Even in modern production sites,

workers need professional and protective clothing to protect them from injury and safeguard against hazardous environments. Air conditioning is meanwhile becoming widespread in the modern working world even in regions with no weather extremes. Air and dust filters made of nonwovens are most of the time not visible but they are there and help to protect staff, as well as sensitive equipment, in production plants. The stories Materials and Health on humans-machinesprogress.com show more exciting examples of mechanical and plant engineering being the driving force for lightweight construction and how medical textile technology ensures good health and quality of life. For any questions please contact Mr. Nicolai Strauch: Phone : +49 69-6603-1366, E-mail : nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

Matter of pride of Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science It is a matter of pride and honor that Department of Textile Technology had achieved 100% placement of its 2017 batch students, companies like Voltas, Raymond, Welspun, LNJ Bhilwara, Gujarat Ambuja, Wearit Group and TCS also. SVITS is achieving our target of 100% placement for 6 consecutive years and also successfully arranged Summer Training for Third year students in renowned textile companies like Raymond, Arvind, Welspun, and Vardhman. Add to this we had successfully arranged 9 industrial visits during last academic session (2016-2017) for textile students (first year to final year students).

One month Garment Training for rural community

Department of Textile Technology has organized "one May - june 2017

month free garment training for rural community" in June 2017 to promote the self-independency in their life. In this year 20 girls from Baroli, Alvasa & Bhaurasla were participated .The concluding ceremony was organized 30th June 2017 in the presence of Dr. Upindar Dhar, Hon. Vice chancellor, SVVV & Shri Prateek Rathi, CEO, Swastik Industries and Mr. A. Ghosh, Joint Registrar, SVVV and faculties & staff of Textile Department. The participation certificates were given to all participated. 51

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SVITS has developed strong linkage with the textile industries, which is one of the significant ingredients of technical education.

NEWS

Mr. Subhash Bhargava admitted as Fellow of SDC [UK] Colorant Limited,Ahmedabad,Gujarat one of the leading Reactive Dyes Manufacturer of India, has been conferred FSDC Status [Fellow of the Society of Dyers & Colorists'] by the Society of Dyers and colorists', UK., in a function held on 19th May, 2017 at York, UK. This award is considered as the highest in the world of coloration. Mr. Subhash Bhargava has in depth knowledge of the coloration and the textile industry which became his biggest asset. He started his career from DCM Mills, Delhi in 1981. Then he joined Sales and Technical Service team of ATUL Ltd., and Pidilite Industries Ltd., respectively. Mr. SubhashBhagava conferred FSDC Status

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, a technocrat and founder of Colorant Limited,Ahmedabad,Gujarat one of the leading Reactive Dyes Manufacturer of India, has been conferred FSDC Status [Fellow of the Society of Dyers & Colorists'] by the Society of Dyers and colorists', UK., in a function held on 19th May, 2017 at York, UK. This award is considered as the highest in the world of coloration. Mr. Subhash Bhargava has in depth knowledge of the coloration and the textile industry which became his biggest asset. He started his career from DCM Mills, Delhi in 1981. Then he joined Sales and Technical Service team of ATUL Ltd., and Pidilite Industries Ltd., respectively.

Lastly, he was in METROCHEM as sales head. With all these industrial experience behind him, he started his own dyes business in 1999 in the name of Colorant Limited, Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Within a short span of time, Colorant has started catering to more than 650 end users in India and exporting to more than 15 countries. Due to his able leadership Colorant has a presence of its own in the market for Quality, Consistency, Economy and Sustainability. He is a philanthropist and statesman involving himself with many educational institutes and trusts etc. He is also a speaker at different national and international forum. He has contributed technical and management articles in various journals of repute. He is an ardent traveler, travelled to almost all Textile centers in India and also to more than 52 countries in the world.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, a technocrat and founder of

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr.Subhash Bhargava being felicitated at India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017

Mr. Subhash Bhargava felicitating by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Mumbai 52

Mr.Subhash Bhargava a Technocrat and Managing Director of Colorant Ltd.,a leading Reactive Dyes manufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad was felicitated at India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 for his contribution to the Indian Dyes industry .It was jointly organized at Mumbai, India by The Textile Association (India) TAI and ECV International, China organized at in the city of Mumbai at Four Seasons Hotel on 7th & 8th of June, 2017. It had excellent response from the technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders, educationist from the participating from 12 countries as well as local Govt. dignitaries prompted May - June 2017

NEWS the Textile Association (India) to take up the challenge of organizing the India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017.

Mr. Bhargava being in the Dyes industry for more than three decades has seen the ups and downs of the dyes industry. Under his able leadership COLORANT has being established as a brand giving stiff competition to all major multinational and national dyes manufacturers. The quality,consistency and specialty is second to none in the industry. Mr. Bhargava delivered a very interesting presentation indicating past, present and future of Indian Dyestuff Industry. The whole narration was fantastic and audience were very impressed. He also expressed there is a great future of Dyestuff Industry.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava delivering his paper

Rieter Combing Technologically at the Forefront The new combing set achieves the greatest productivity worldwide. The technology advantage of Rieter combing is based on the optimal interaction between machine and technology components.

reduction in the number of preparatory machines. This noticeably reduces the number of can changes and sliver piecing. Fewer personnel are needed.

Confirmation of this strength, not only in the laboratory but especially under real production conditions with different cotton types, is Rieter s guarantee for the customer's success. The technological resp. qualitative and economic benefits are illustrated as follows.

With this production rate, the OMEGAlap is far superior to conventional machines. The influence of the OMEGAlap on the economic performance of a combing section is enormous. The high production allows a

Fig 1 - Combing section with conventional preparation, without automation May - june 2017

Fig2 - Combing section with new E 36 OMEGAlap and E 86 ROBOlap comber including lap transport system E 26 SERVOlap

As an example, the personnel requirement of a combing set in a compact spinning facility with 76?000 spindles was calculated. Compared to other machine manufacturers, the personnel requirement can be reduced by 3 persons. This is realised by the efficient combing preparation, the SERVOlap fully automated lap transport system and the comber including the ROBOlap automated lap changing and piecing system (Figs. 1 and 2). The personnel saving for the combing preparation machine can be up to 20 %. That reduces the manufacturing costs by approx. USD 190?000?per year (basis Turkey). E 86 Comber - for better combing The new E 86 comber features a speed increase of 10 % compared to the previous model. In the short and 53

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

E 36 OMEGAlap - the most economical combing preparation Thanks to continuous advancements, the OMEGAlap concept could be improved. An increase in production of 20 % to over 600 kg/h at a constant speed of up to 230 m/min is the result.

NEWS medium staple ranges, combing can be made with 550 nips per minute, and that without compromises in the combing quality. In practice, a Rieter combing set (1?+?6) supplies a plant with approx. 25 000 compact spindles.

That means, that in both examples, a higher cleaning effect is achieved by means of stronger combing intensity without compromises in the combing quality.

Higher level of cleaning for better quality The strength of the E 86 comber lies in a high level of cleaning as well as excellent running performance with high nip rates.

Fig 3 - The E 86 comber with higher level of cleaning: fewer imperfections without affecting the fibre length and the yarn strength

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Fig5 - The E 86 with higher cleaning level: fewer trash particles without fibre damage

The E 86 achieves fewer imperfections in the yarn (thin places, thick places, neps) at the same noil removal level compared to combers from other manufacturers. The high degree of cleaning has no effects on the fibre quality. That means, the fibre length remains unchanged and thus the yarn tenacity at a high level (Fig. 3). Furthermore, the E 86 attains an improved dust and trash elimination of up to 20 %. The short fibre content, the hairiness as well as the evenness in the yarn remain unchanged (Fig. 5). 54

Fig 6 - 40 % better imperfection rate Fig 7 - up to 1 % noil saving at the same yarn quality Fig 8 - 10 % higher production at the same good yarn quality

That means, that in both examples, a higher cleaning effect is achieved by means of stronger combing intensity without compromises in the combing quality. A further example from Southeast Asia shows better yarn quality with the E 86 compared to another manuMay - June 2017

NEWS facturer. At the same production performance and the same noil removal, the imperfections are lower by 40 % (Fig. 6). The raw material is a considerable cost factor in the spinning mill. With the E 86 noil removal can be reduced by up to 1 % at equally good yarn quality (Fig. 7). That generates cost savings of up to USD 55 000 annually (example Central Asia). The production performance also positively affects the costs of the spinning mill. The E 86 has the potential to achieve a 10 % higher production in comparison to the previous model, at the same noil removal and yarn quality (Fig. 8). That corresponds to a saving in manufacturing costs of about USD 20?000 per year and combing set (basis Turkey). The right technologies for an efficient combing set The E 86 comber with its high production at simulta-

neously high quality leads the way in combing. Individual quality demands can be realised thanks to highvalue technology components. The established, fullyautomated ROBOlap lap changing and piecing system is the standard for a modern combing facility. Together with the unique OMEGAlap preparation, the highest production per set on the market is achieved.

Yvan Schwartz Author: Yvan Schwartz Head Product Management Combing yvan.schwartz@rieter.com

Seminar Report Indo -US Partnership in Textiles & Implication of GST

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum welcomed the august gathering; Dr. LalitKanodia, Immediate Past President, IACC delivered Special address, Dr.Kavita Gupta, Commissioner, Textiles, Govt. of India was the Guest of Honor; Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Consulate, Mumbai delivered Special Address; Mr.Ajit B.Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee, Govt. of India delivered Keynote Address and Mr.Arvind Sinha, President, The Textile Association (India) gave concluding remarks. Around 85 people attended the program consisting senior officials from State Government, US Consulate, Corporates and Media. The audience was very enthusiastic and raised many relevant questions to speaker and leadership.

Inaugural Session:

(From L to R): Dr. Lalit Kanodia, Immediate Past Chairman, IACC; Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum; Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Commissioner, Textiles, Govt. of India; Mr. Ajit Chavan, Secretary, Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India; Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum: Mr. Suresh Kotak as a Chairman of IACC Textile May - june 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Indo American Chamber of Commerce (IACC) organized a "Seminar on Indo -US Partnership in Textiles & Implication of GST" on Tuesday 18th May, 2017 at the Garware Club House in Mumbai. The objective of this Session was to try and understand the opportunities & challenges in doing business with USA in Textiles.

NEWS Forum he gave welcome address and thanked supporting partners in taking keen interest in promoting this initiative to build greater synergy & symbiotic relationship between two nations in promotion as well as research & development in textiles. Mr. Kotak emphasized that India is the second largest producer of textile and apparel in the world. The Indian textile and apparel industry is expected to reach US $ 221 billion by 2021 according to Technopak's Textile & Apparel Compendium. India & USA are strong partners in promotion of textile business. There is significant transformations taking place in the Indo-US bilateral economic landscape. Bold policy initiatives are being unveiled in India to accelerate the development process and India US can achieving indefinable business in textiles.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Lalit Kanodia, Immediate Past President, IACC: DrKanodia is Chairman & Managing Director, Datamatics Global Services Pvt Ltd, Immediate Past President, IACC delivered special address in the seminar. He congratulated Mr Suresh Kotak for taking up this initiative and in creating a platform where stakeholders can deliberate & find out scope of cross border collaboration in textiles. He mentioned that Textile is one of the oldest sector of doing business in India. The first textile business was set up by Tatas in Nagpur and thereafter there were many other players like Birlas (Century Mills), Mafatlal, Ruia, Wadia, Lalbai and Piramal. He also mentioned that Textile comes under the basic human needs Roti, Kapada, Makan&Kapada signifies that it's one of the basic need of human being. The nation's need is to create 1 million jobs every month. Due to its labour intensiveness, the Textile Industry can certainly create many of these jobs. It is estimated that the total worldwide revenue of Textiles is about $970 billion and from Apparel isabout $1440 billion. Combined they constitute about $2.3 trillion of the global economy. This exceeds the $1.5 trillion of the Software Industry. The global revenue of Textiles is growing at 6% p.a. and that of Apparel growing at 4% p.a. Despite our labour competitiveness and demographics we rank No. 5 or 6 in the world in the production of Apparels. In fact, Bangladesh and Vietnam export more Apparel than India, though I believe we are going to catch up with them shortly. The largest producer of 56

Textiles and Apparel in the world is China at $300 billion p.a., despite the fact that its wages are significantly higher than India. 15. I have no hesitation in my belief that India needs to provide a thrust to the Textile and Apparel Industry and increase its size. A recent study claims that it has the potential to grow to $400 billion p.a. Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Consulate, Mumbai: Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Consulate, Mumbai delivered Special Address in the Seminar on Indo US Partnership in Textiles. He stressed on the fact by saying that U.S. - India bilateral relations have been described as a global strategic partnership. Both the countries share democratic values and bilateral trade and investment. Our two Governments have taken steps in the last few years to build a strong foundation for a long-term partnership. To increase bilateral trade, both the Governments have pledged to explore new opportunities to break down barriers to the movement of goods and services, to integrate global supply chains, thereby creating jobs and generating prosperity in both economies. The U. S. is the second largest trading partner of India. The bilateral goods and services trade between the two countries exceeded $100 billion in 2016. Both countries aspire to increase bilateral trade to the tune of $500 billion annually by 2020. As Indian companies continue to look for opportunities overseas, many Indian companies are looking at U.S. as an investment destination. India has emerged as one of the fastest growing sources of FDI into the United States. For the fifth year in a row, global business executives have named the United States as the top destination for business investment, according to A.T. Kearney's Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) Confidence Index. He was pleased to announce about the SelectUSA Investment Summit to be held from June 18-20, at the Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center. This year's theme is "Grow with US". Featuring investment opportunities from every corner of the United States for global investors. States are competing with one another to offer the best incentives to come to their states.

May - June 2017

NEWS

The U.S. textile industry includes textile raw materials, yarns, fabrics, apparel and home furnishings, and other textile finished products. Our major strength is in cotton, manmade fibers, and a wide variety of yarns and fabrics, including those for apparel and industrial end-uses. Though much of the American cotton is re-exported as home textiles from India, we understand that increasingly U.S. cotton is in apparel made in India for Indian consumers. Some of the important observations which he highlighted are as follows:◆ Steady growth is expected in the global technical textiles market. ◆ Manufacturing technical textiles demands specific raw materials, machinery and equipment that are not readily available in India. Presently, India's technical textile industry is based on producing commodities that are not very R&D intensive. American companies can provide Indian companies a competitive edge. ◆ India's market share in the technical textile sector is expected to grow but it has a long way to go in order to be globally competitive in the technical textile sector. ◆ U.S. exports of technical textiles to India grew at 18 % last year. U.S. exports of technical textiles are projected to be worth $85 million by 2018. Mr. Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India Mr. Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee, gave a brief introduction on the background of the program. He said India is a major global textile economy with textile exports worth $40 billion. India ranks 4th and 5th among the top 10 textiles and clothing exporting countries respectively.

USD 62 billion by 2021 from the USD 38 billion in 2016. Traditionally India's key export demand is driven by Europe and America but new markets such as Iran, Russia and South America are opening up. The Textiles Committee of India serves textile trade and industry by providing various services including testing, inspection, market research, total quality management and more. The Textile Committee is rolling out a Zero Defect program for the textile industries to maximize profit by reducing wastes. Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Govt. of India: Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles was the Guest of Honor in Seminar on Indo US Partnership in Textiles& Implication of GST. She stressed upon the need of R&D in the textile and apparel industry, which needs to be addressed collectively and in time bound manner. Dr. Gupta also said that the Govt. of India is primarily looking out to promote technical textiles and textile machinery and to boost exports in the respective field. India & USA can be strategic partner in promoting technical textiles. Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TheTextile Association (India): Mr. Arvind Sinha insisted that Global Business environment is changing and new emerging opportunities. India &US is already enjoying good business environment and such conditions major joint venture can happens where we have raw materials preparation in India and finishing units in USA. There are tremendous new global opportunities, India & US can become the Hub for excellent research and development opportunities and lot of innovations can be converted into the commercial ventures. Therefore this initiative of Indo American Chamber of Commerce can really bring very fruitful results. Mr. Arvind Sinha also insisted that there is need for building huge and high quality production facilities if we want large business houses with big business possibilities. He also indicated that there is need for calling big stores such as Wal Mart, COSTCO etc. to India to discuss their business possibilities in India.

India's top exports destinations are Europe and the US with total exports touching $16.78 billion in 2016. Textiles and apparel exports are estimated to reach May - june 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Indian textile industry is vitally important to the Indian economy. Textiles contributes significantly to the GDP and export earnings. India is the second largest manufacturer and exporter in the world. The U. S also a globally competitive manufacturer of textiles. Ranking third in global export value behind China and India, U.S. exports of textiles increased 39 % between 2009 and 2015, to $17.6 billion.

NEWS Panel Discussion I: India USA Partnership and Creating Road Map for Future Growth

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◆ ◆ ◆

(From L to R): Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Former Chairman, SRTEPC; Mr. R. N. Bhaskar, Consulting, Business Editor; Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President, Polyester, Reliance Industries Ltd; Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI

The panel discussion was very interactive and informative. It was moderated by Mr. R. N.Bhaskar, Consulting, Business Editor. The esteemed panelist were Mr. R. D.Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd; Mr.Sanjeev Saran,

Major concerns for Textile industry are volatile prices, low profitability, rising costs, supply inconsistency, sourcing reliability; Competitive prices and low volatility render polyester as a tool to battle price fluctuations Application variability and diversity facilitates use of polyester in many niche applications Easy scalability and competitive investments assure polyester as a fiber for future needs India forms an attractive destination for downstream investments, with raw material security, domestic demand, strong logistics, product development and strong finance & legal system

Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Former Chairman, Synthetic Rayon and Textiles Export Promotion Council: Mr. Sanjeev Saran shared lot of his experience for last few decades, he also suggested that business environment has considerably changed in India, there is a focus on quality innovation, supply chain etc. but there is a need for improving the volumes, creating high production capacities, political environment is very favorable for business and great initiative by Government of India to improve business relations and opportunities. Panel Discussion II: Implication of GST on Textiles

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd: Mr. R. D.Udeshi, President (Polyester Chain), Reliance Industries Ltd in his special address said that the growth of manmade textiles is playing an important role in the textile industry. He said, since Govt of India is aiming to grow the size of Indian Textile & Apparel industry from USD 110 billion to USD 400 billion, the input for such size from Man Made Fiber will also multiply and hence required immediate attention on its development as cotton only may not be able to fulfill that demand. He also emphasized by saying that Government should help the textile industry in bringing fiber neutrality policy to abolish differential tax system for cotton and man-made fibres. He said that China is the world leader in exports of textiles as it enjoys competitive advantage in terms of low cost of production, quality and the cost of power is extremely low as compared to any other countries. He also referred many other areas such as: 58

(From L to R): Mr. ArvindBhansali, VP, Indirect Taxation, Reliance Industries Ltd; Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI; Ms. NidhiMarwaha, Asst.VP, ICRA Limited

Mr. Arvind Bhansali, VP Indirect Taxation, Reliance Industries Ltd: He is one of the most sought after speaker on indirect taxation particularly GST Code. His insights on the new GST policy and its implication on Textiles was really helpful for the Textile Industry. May - June 2017

NEWS He referred to the following points while touching upon GST: ◆ Increase in the effective tax rate may have negative impact on the pricing of Textiles. ◆ GST on textiles will remove existing tax stranding of inputs / input services / capital goods. ◆ Taxes paid on purchase and installation of capital asset and equipment can be claimed as ITC. This will encourage up-gradation and expansion of the Textile Industries with latest improved technologies. ◆ Compliance cost in the GST regime will be generally lower due to fewer taxes. However, textile sector being outside GST at present will face compliance burden. ◆ Fiscal barriers will be removed for the movement of Textile inputs and outputs from one State to another. ◆ Under GST, all kinds of Fiber will be treated in the same way. There is no discrimination likely between cotton fiber and man-made fiber in the GST Structure. ◆ Job work activity under GST will be considered as service, composition scheme would not be available and tedious procedural aspects need to be complied with. ◆ Credit will be available subject to matching/verification with returns filed and payments made by

the supplier of goods or services. Ms Nidhi Marwaha, Asst. Vice President, ICRA Limited ◆ Textile Sector - Current situation ◆ India - 6th largest apparel exporting nation, after China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Italy and Germany ◆ Export of raw cotton and other intermediaries such as yarn and fabrics, accounts for ~27% of India's total textile exports - Points towards scope for further value-addition in the country ◆ Potential Roadblocks - Some of the potential road blocks include fragmented nature of the industry, higher capacities in the upstream sectors, regionally-dispersed value chain , high focus on cotton, range-bound cotton production vis-à-vis faster pace of growth in demand ◆ Opportunities to capitalise on ◆ Decline in China's apparel exports in the past two years ◆ Fast growing domestic market ◆ Scope for investments in the down-stream sectors and increasing share of value-add products in India's exports ◆ Way Forward ◆ Attract investments, benefit from scale, capitalize on strengths and diversify into geographies and product offerings

It all started as three pages in the German textile magazine Melliand in 1957. Today, the global benchmarks known as USTER®STATISTICS have legendary status throughout the industry as an objective measure of quality. This article marks the 60th anniversary of USTER®STATISTICS - 6 decades of a unique and free benchmarking service for the textile field. Their development over the decades provides a reliable monitor of how quality demands in textiles have increased. For example, a typical yarn with a 50% quality rating back in 1964 would need to register much better evenness to reach the same level half a century later. This comparison is made using USTER®STATISTICS Percentiles for comparing the quality of spinning mills worldwide. Looking ahead, the ongoing expansion of USTER®STATISTICS will continue with the inclusion of many more quality parameters such as Hairiness Length Classification in the 2018 edition. May - june 2017

Spinners themselves were behind the origins of USTER®STATISTICS in the 1950s, as they saw the benefit of benchmarking their yarn quality against competitors in other mills. USTER had earlier introduced the first yarn evenness tester in 1948, and was therefore an obvious choice to answer the spinners' request. This led to the publication of the so-called USTER®STANDARDS, the forerunner of USTER®STATISTICS, which listed only unevenness data as U% and CV figures for carded and combed yarn. From cotton to blends Evenness remains one of the essential quality standards for the industry today - although the number of other yarn parameters now measured has grown over time, in line with the launch of further USTER® instruments for yarn quality improvement. By 1997, standards for fibers were added, based on the 59

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

USTER - A remarkable increase in quality expectations worldwide

NEWS USTER®AFIS. The statistical data has also become much more comprehensive, extending to take in a wider range of fiber materials, including wool, viscose, polyester and even blends. In 1957, USTER®STANDARDS included just three quality parameters, contained in two chapters across only six pages, including six graphs. The latest 2013 edition of USTER®STATISTICS covers 101 quality parameters in 123 chapters, using over 2,500 graphs. "The standards are far more than figures to compare yarn quality around the world," says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn Testing within Uster Technologies. "USTER®STATISTICS have become a common language of quality foryarn producers and yarn users."

Graph showing long-term development of yarn evenness from 1964 to 2013

The famous red lines… USTER®STATISTICS Percentiles (USP) were introduced in 1965 - and today everybody in the industry recognizes the familiar red lines, indicating values for a 5%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 95% standard. The USP figure is a rating for a particular parameter, based on comparisons with the quality level being produced by mills worldwide. Today yarns are often spot-market internet purchases. Missing specifications based upon objective values lead to a serious deterioration in the quality of garments or other textile products that is why also leading yarn traders insist on clear specifications for yarns and USTER® STATISTICS offer the references. The famous red lines show their relevance along the textile value chain. USTER®STATISTICS actually bridges the gap between yarn producers and yarn users, enabling them to talk about quality in a way that is understood by all.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The change in evenness

USTER® STANDARDS published in 1957 60

USTER® STATISTICS graph for yarn evenness, 100% cotton, carded

Standards for evenness testing have been available for 60 years and it is interesting to note how much the values behind this standard have improved. The evenness of yarns has become better and better over the long term (see graph). Taking a typical ring-spun yarn of 100% combed cotton, 20 tex (Ne 30), a USP rating of 50% could be achieved in 1964 with a CVm of 15.2. To be at the same level, a similar yarn in 2013 would have required a CVm value of 12.6 (shown by the red line in the graph).

Sample A Fabric from yarn rated at USP 50% value in 1964 May - June 2017

NEWS and intelligent quality assurance. Its integration of all test data enables the automatic production of quality reports with a clear presentation of the USP values.

Sample B Fabric from yarn rated at USP 50% value under 2013 standards

This changing requirement is clearly shown by comparing fabrics made from yarn with these parameters (see photos). Sample A, with a USP 50% value for CVm in 1964, exhibits a much more 'cloudy' appearance than Sample B, which would have rated a USP value of 50% for CVm 49 years later. The fabric in Sample A demonstrates that the yarn used would be regarded as much less acceptable under today's increased quality expectations. This trend underscores the fact that customers over the years have become more and more demanding about yarn evenness, in tandem with the quality improvements made possible by the technological progress in spinning machinery. At the same time, the evenness testing instrument has become much more sophisticated - with advanced technology and sensors now providing the most accurate testing results. With the essential support of USTER®STATISTICS as a tool for daily testing routines, the latest-generation USTER®TESTER 6 is the ultimate in user-friendly

The one and only What makes USTER®STATISTICS unique is the fact that no other company has attempted to establish its own system of collating and publishing textile quality standards. The Statistics will be continuously developed in the future - with an important addition already planned for the next edition in 2018 to include hairiness length values measured by the new HL sensors, launched with USTER®TESTER 6. The entire textile chain - yarn producers, their customers downstream, as well as traders and machine manufacturers - acknowledge that USTER®STATISTICS has played a key part in establishing the USTER name as a synonym for quality standards in the textile industry. "I congratulate Uster Technologies on the 60th anniversary of USTER® STATISTICS and I pay tribute to the company's achievements in setting the standards we all use in our routines," says S.P. Oswal, Chairman, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd. Literally, USTER®STATISTICS are the only way to compare yarn quality objectively - and the textile industry can depend on their continued assistance for the next 60 years and beyond. Media contact: Edith Aepli Senior Manager Marketing & Communication Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91, Fax +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail publicrelation@uster.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Please call on following Numbers for booking advertisement in

& Website www.textileassociationindia.org Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 e-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com May - june 2017

NEWS

Algerian textile producers on the upswing The Algerian EPE-EATIT-SPA group, with a history dating back to the year 1984 and many re-organizations has today seven sites and covers a large range of textiles from garments to home textiles, professional clothes and technical textiles. Recently EATIT bought 52 DORNIER looms to produce woven fabric made of polyamide and cotton for the domestic market.

Paste coating unit

Layout of the BRÜCKNER line

In the frame of these optimization the old lines of the finishing and coating division have been replaced by new lines in order to carry this improved production standard with modern equipment forward into this important step of the production, too.

The heart of the line is a 6-compartment stenter with a working width of 2.40 m, providing with its alternatingly arranged and patented splitflow technology for the temperature uniformity which is a prerequisite for the coating and laminating processes.

The Management decided to follow this direction consequently and ordered a coating and laminating line from the only remaining German producer of textile machinery, BRÜCKNER.

Film laminating unit in the exit

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The line is designed for a high production speed. To allow a production without interruptions there is a roller-type fabric accumulator with high fabric contents directly behind the unwinding unit for raw fabric.

View of the roller accumulator and the coating and laminating line

Texttreasure Knowledge can be got in one way, the way is experience; there is no other way to know." - Swami Vivekananda 62

A padder and a ZIMMER coating unit and a laminating calender at the exit allow the owner to apply a multitude of different applications onto his article. Among other things it is possible to make functionalizations, paste or foam coating and laminating with films or textile bonding. Thus, EATIT is in the position to make on the new BRÜCKNER coating and laminating line all products required by its market and the company has made an important step to offer also in future competitive and innovative textiles. May - June 2017

NEWS

ColorJet India to launch dye sublimation textile printerAurajet at Gartex 2017 â&#x2014;&#x2020; â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Aurajet can runlow GSM paper starting from 45 GSM, thus bringing down production cost Aurajet achieves maximum speed of 34 sq. metres Helps in reducing cost by using less ink and offers perfect colours

AuraJet II Dye Sub Machine

India's biggest wide format digital printer and also a winner of several awards in the last few months, ColorJet India Ltd is launching the Aurajet dye sublimation textile printer at the upcoming textile technology trade show Gartex 2017, which runs from July 2931, 2017 in hall no. 14, stall no. 75. Alongside, Colorjet will also showcase the recently launched TXF digital textile printer along with its bestselling model, the Vastrajet. The Made-in-India Aurajet, which is running successfully in Australia, Sri Lanka, Saudi Arabia and other parts of world, is the perfect choice for dye sublimation users as it can easily run low GSM paper starting from 45 GSM which will help in reducing the cost by using less ink and offering perfect colours. The sturdy industrial built of the Aurajet helps in ensuring that the machine runs for years and years, while achieving maximum speed of 34 sq. metres, thereby providing huge production runs. It comeswith advanced feed and a take-up system for precise paper movement. The Aurajet is bundled with COLORGATE RIP to give vibrant colours and also comes with new

May - june 2017

CB100 inks, for best results in sportswear, apparel and home furnishing applications. ColorJet is also showing its tech loaded digital textile printer, the TXF, which has been manufactured incorporating the latest technology, which imparts the printer with the power to print brilliantly and flawlessly, with reduced maintenance. The printer can achieve print resolutions of up to 1,440dpi and is best suited when it comes to sampling and short runs, particularly suitable for fashion designers and home textiles applications. TXF is available to work with Reactive inks for printing onto natural fabrics and also Disperse inks for printing onto polyester fabrics. The TXF printer which is equipped with industrialprintheadsgivesvariable dot control for achieving smooth gradations and is also belt driven, which makes it suitable for printing fabrics including bulkytextured materials, thinner fabrics and also stretchable fabric materials such as knits. The state-of-the-art and efficiently engineered Vastrajet printer is a commercial grade entry level digital textile printer, which meets the normal daily requirements of a textile printing house, while being suitable for a variety of fabrics like cotton, silk, wool, polyester and their blends, including for stretchable and normal fabrics. The structure of the Vastrajet is excellently designed to handle high speed production and precise dot placements, while the proprietary AIVC technology ensures high precision printing. The high speed is achieved through specially designed jetting controls to optimize printheads performance, to match the high jetting frequency. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

â&#x2014;&#x2020;

For more information please: Media Contacts: Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications Ahmedabad, India Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net www.colorjetgroup.com 63

NEWS

German Technology meets US and Mexican Textile Programs published and online registration is open for "German Technology meets US and Mexican Textile", November 2017. The VDMA Textile Machinery Association has just published demanding and comprehensive programs of its B2B Forums & Conferences, which will be held in Charlotte (NC) and Mexico City in November. The programs are available at www.germantech-ustextile.de and www.germantech-mextextile.de. Industry experts from the VDMA member companies will present practice-oriented technology topics to decision makers from the local textile industries. German Technology meets US Textile For the conference in Charlotte, taking place on November 6 at the Sheraton Charlotte Hotel, three parallel sessions are scheduled: Textile Machinery and components for the … … fiber and yarn industry. … nonwovens and technical textiles industry. … apparel, home textile & carpet industry.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The sessions will feature application-oriented technology presentations from the following 25 VDMA member companies: A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, ANDRITZ Kuesters, Autefa Solutions, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + TEMAFA, Lindauer DORNIER, Erhardt + Leimer, GROZ-BECKERT, Interspare, KÖRTING HANNOVER, MAHLO, Karl Mayer, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, PLEVA, Reseda Binder, Georg Sahm, Saurer Components (Saurer Temco), Sedo Treepoint, Textechno Herbert Stein, Thies, Truetzschler, Welker Vakuum, Oerlikon Textile (Barmag and Neumag). German Technology meets Mexican Textile The program in Mexico City will cover two days, November 8 and 9. Location is the Hilton Mexico City Santa Fe. Content scheduled for 8 November is: ◆ Textile machinery and components for the apparel and home textile industry. On November 9, there will be two parallel topics: ◆ Textile machinery and components for the fiber and yarn industry. 64

◆

Textile machinery and components for the nonwovens and technical textiles industry.

The following 29 VDMA member companies will present their latest technologies for the benefit of the Mexican textile industry: A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, Allma Volkmann Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany, ANDRITZ Asselin-Thibeau, Autefa Solutions Germany, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + Temafa, Erhardt+Leimer, Groz-Beckert, Georg Sahm, Interspare, Jakob Mueller, Körting Hannover, Mahlo, Mayer&Cie., Karl Mayer, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, Oerlikon Textile (Barmag + Neumag), PLEVA, Reseda Binder, Saurer Components GmbH Branch Hammelburg, Schlafhorst branch of Saurer Germany, Sedo Treepoint, SETEX Schermuly textile computer, Textechno Herbert Stein, Thies, Truetzschler, Welker Vakuum. Interested decision makers (e. g. Technical Management, Production Managers, Quality and Maintenance Managers, Mill Owners) from the textile, nonwoven and carpet manufacturing industries along the entire textile chain are requested to register under these links: www.germantech-ustextile.de www.germantech-mextextile.de Each registrant will be checked and approved. A few weeks prior to the events, the approved registrants will be able to pre-arrange B2B meetings with the experts from the participating VDMA member companies, their subsidiaries and agents via the above-mentioned websites. There is no registration fee for visitors. Whereas, these events will focus on customers, the training session at the InstitutoPolitécnicoNacional (Escuela Superior de IngenieríaTextil) in Mexico City on 10 November 2017 will focus on future engineers. For any questions please contact: Mr. Nicolai Strauch Phone: +49 69-6603-1366, e-mail: nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

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NEWS

Sandeep Kataria joins Bata India as Country Manager & Rajeev Gopalakrishnan elevated to President, Asia South role based in Singapore, with a broader perimeter encompassing: India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Australia & New Zealand. This development is in line with Bata India's growth trajectory which picked up significant momentum under Mr. Gopalakrishnan. He has indeed been pivotal in driving the product, brand, retail and manufacturing levers of the business. A clear reflection of past few years trajectory has been Bata's share price almost tripling in the last 6 years from a value of INR 196 per share in Apr 2011 to INR 584 per share as on date and wining several awards including the most admired Retail footwear brand in India by Brand Equity, Images Retail, Dun & Bradstreet.

European footwear major's Indian subsidiary, Bata India announced the appointment of Sandeep Kataria as the Country Manager for the India sub-continent as on Aug 01, 2017. Sandeep joins from his last assignment as Chief Commercial Officer at Vodafone India, and he will be based in Gurgaon. A Business Leader, Sandeep has over 2 decades in the consumer industry, covering design and deployment of business strategy, brand management and sales & marketing leadership across the developing and developed markets. Having held roles ranging from Regional Sales manager to Global Brand Director in Unilever and from Chief Marketing Officer to Chief Executive Officer in Yum! Brands, Sandeep now has his role cutout to grow Bata India from strength to strength. He will be reporting into Mr. Rajeev Gopalakrishnan, who has been elevated as President of Asia South,

Sandeep holds a Bachelor of Technology degree (Chemical Engineering) from the Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, and a Post-Graduate Diploma in Business Management from XLRI, Jamshedpur. He has lived and worked in India (Delhi and Mumbai) and UK (London). Mr. Sandeep Kataria, Country Manager, Bata India said," I am very excited for the opportunity to lead Bata in India - a very strong, trusted and admired brand with immense potential to grow rapidly. My association with Bata goes back to my teenage days when I used to spend my summer vacations in my grandfather's shoe business in Agra. I look forward to helping to take the business to greater heights across many channels, consumer segments and geographies."

Launch your new products and services May - june 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

R to L: Mr. Sandeep Kataria, Country Manager, Bata India, being welcomed by Mr. Rajeev Gopalakrishnan, President - Asia South_2

Speaking on the appointment, Mr. Rajeev Gopalakrishnan, President, Asia South, Bata said "I am confident that Sandeep will play a critical role in continuing to build Bata as a contemporary and stylish brand, keeping in mind the changing consumer trend in India and will drive the company to achieve the accelerated growth plan."

NEWS

Stäubli Anniversary - Quality and innovation as a driving force for 125 years After starting in a small workshop in 1892, Stäubli has developed into a leading industrial partner for high-quality mechatronic solutions and technologies. With three dedicated activities - Connectors, Robotics and Textile - Stäubli is valued by industrial customers worldwide for its high-quality products and cutting-edge technologies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Two family threads came together at the end of the 19th century - the heyday of the Swiss textile industry - and were woven into a new corporate fabric: Rudolph Schelling and Hermann Stäubli, displaying both commercial acumen and technical skill, founded the company "Schelling &Stäubli" in the Swiss village of Horgen in 1892. At that time, this village on the shores of Lake Zurich - and on the Silk Road as well - was the site of many mills operating a total of some 1,000 weaving machines. Hermann Stäubli had acquired his initial know-how by repairing these machines. After a short time, he set out to produce superior machinery. His credo from the start was the highest quality and a pronounced customer focus. He sought no less than to make the world's best dobbies - with which weaving mills could achieve optimal results. Even in those early days, Stäubli set very high targets for efficient production; specifically, to weave more fabrics at lower cost, higher quality, and with a greater variety of patterns. Already in 1893, Schelling &Stäubli introduced their first dobby, designed and constructed in house. In 1900 they introduced the world's first paper-card dobby, equipped with a warp-leasing system that is still widely used today. Following the death of Rudolph Schelling in 1909, the company was renamed Stäubli. Geographical spread and portfolio expansion The Stäubli Group has grown exuberantly since 1892, 66

in both technical and geographic terms. Already in 1909 Stäubli built its first factory in France, followed by additional production sites in other European countries as well as in the Americas and China. The Group's Textile activities have grown in line with its corporate targets, and Stäubli has become a leading supplier to the global weaving industry. In 1969 Stäubli acquired the German company Trumpelt, which specialised in heavy dobbies. As a shedding solution specialist in frame weaving, the company then decided to expand its range to include Jacquard weaving. This led to the acquisition of Verdolin Lyon, a manufacturer of mechanical Jacquard machines. And to expand its product range to cover the complete weaving process, the companies Zellweger (weaving preparation solutions) and Schönherr (carpet weaving systems) were purchased in 1994 and 1998. Finally, the DEIMO Company was acquired, a long-time industry partner providing drive and control systems for a wide range of applications. This expansion strategy has been constantly augmented by intensive R&D activities, and today the result can be seen in a comprehensive range of high-performance products integrating state-of-the-art technologies. This machinery is renowned for exceptional reliability, unsurpassed production speeds, and very long service life. SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines, the latest generation of S3000/S3200 dobbies, the LX/LXL electronic Jacquard machines, ALPHA carpet weaving systems, the TF technical weaving systems, and DEIMO knitting solutions all attest to continuity and a passion for innovation, which is embedded in the DNA of the company.+ Excellence means constant improvement and development in all areas "The spirit of innovation has defined our company from the beginning - it's rooted deeply in the nature of Stäubli", says Rolf Strebel, Stäubli CEO. "It's the reason we constantly develop new solutions which add value for our customers. Other decisive factors for our long-term success are the spirit of cohesion amongst our staff around the globe, our inquisitiveness, and our philosophy of continuous improvement. Our aspiration is to constantly improve - on a human, professional, and technical level - and to remain just as successful during the next 125 years." May - June 2017

NEWS Stäubli - 125 years of passion for innovation Technological advancements and visionary ideas have formed a company that is poised to operate as successfully in the new millennium as it did at the end of the 19th century.Today Stäubli is a mechatronics solutions provider with three dedicated activities: Connectors, Robotics and Textile. With a global workforce of over 4,500, the company generates an annual turnover of 1.1 billion Swiss francs. Founded in 1892, today Stäubli

is an international group headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland. For more information please contact: Stäubli International AG Textile Communication Nadine Dairain, textile press relation executive Phone: +33 450 64 31 68 E-mail: n.dairain@staubli.com

Birla Cellulose Fibers Earn USDA Biobased Certification Grasim Industries Limited a flagship company of Aditya Birla Group has earned the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Certified Bio-based Product label for its products- Birla Viscose, Birla Modal & Birla Excel. "We applaud Grasim Industries Ltd. for earning the USDA Certified Bio-based Product label," said Kate Lewis, USDA Bio-Preferred Program. "Products from Grasim Industries Ltd. are contributing to an ever expanding marketplace that adds value to renewable agriculture commodities, creates jobs in rural communities, and decreases our reliance on petroleum." Third-party verification for a product's bio-based content is administered through the USDA Bio-Preferred Program. One of the goals of the Bio-Preferred Program is to increase the development, purchase and use of bio-based products. The USDA Certified Bio-based Product label displays a product's bio-based content, which is the portion of a product that comes from a renewable source, such as

plant, animal, marine, or forestry feedstocks. Utilizing renewable, bio-based materials displaces the need for non-renewable petroleum based chemicals. Bio-based products, through petroleum displacement, have played an increasingly important role in reducing greenhouse gas emissions that exacerbate global climate change. Bio-based products are cost-comparative, readily available, and perform as well as or better than their conventional counterparts. Speaking on the occasion Managing Director of Grasim Industries Ltd., Mr. Dilip Gaur, said "The USDA Biobased certification is another milestone reached in our Sustainability Journey& strengthening our belief that Sustainability is at the core of our business strategy." Chief Marketing Officer of Birla Cellulose Mr. Rajeev Gopal further said, "This certification reconfirms the natural origin of our products & will enhance the confidence of the value chain players in delivering bio-based products."

Birla Cellulose's Vilayat Unit gets FSC C-o-C Certification

Forestry mechanism is a mechanism using independent assurance that the forest is managed according to internationally recognized sustainability criteria. The Forest Stewardship Council (FSCTM), Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFCTM) and Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI) are some of international systems for forest certifications. Chain of May - june 2017

Custody (C-o-C) certification is a way of tracking wood-based raw materials from the forest to the consumer, at each stage in ownership. Birla Cellulose's other fibre Units which have FSC Co-C Certification are Kharach Unit in Gujarat, PT Indo Bharat Rayon in Indonesia & Birla JingweiFibre Company in China. All the Pulp Units of Birla Cellulose are certified for one of these key certifications i.e. SFI, FSC C-o-C & PEFC and now four of the Fibre Units are FSC C-o-C certified. "FSC certification is an important step and in line with our Wood Sourcing Policy to procure raw material from certified sources," Managing Director of Grasim 67

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Birla Cellulose's Vilayat Unit in Gujarat received the FSC C-o-C certification. The assessment was done by third party SGS India, world's leading inspection, verification, testing & Certification Company. Post the successful completion of the assessment the FSC C-oC certification was awarded recently. Vilayat is Birla Cellulose's fourth fibre unit to get this certification.

NEWS Industries Ltd, Dilip Gaur, said. "We are also one of the first cellulose fiber producers to complete a CanopyStyle audit conducted by Rainforest Alliance which confirms Birla Cellulose fibre supply chains are

low risk for sourcing from ancient and endangered forests or other controversial sources. FSC C-o-C is another milestone in our Sustainability Journey," he added.

China Machinex India 2017 and China Homelife India 2017 Exhibition We have over 1000 of the topmost Chinese companies which visited India in the last year's edition, of which we had around 150 exhibitors for Textile & Garments like Woven, ready to were brands, accessories, bags, home textile, commercial textile jackets, Sportswear and High quality Suits, Industrial textile participating in our Show.

CHINA MACHINEX INDIA 2017 and CHINA HOMELIFE INDIA 2017 is the largest China Sourcing B2B Exhibition in India, which is a part of the global series of exhibitions taking place annually in 11 countries, viz, Poland, Egypt, Brazil, UAE (Dubai), South Africa, India, Kazakhstan, Turkey, Jordan, Iran and Mexico.This Exhibition is being organized jointly by the state government of regions of Hangzhou, Ningbo, Shanghai, and Wenzhou in China. This exhibition is conducted successfully from past 4 years and this year is the 5th edition. The exhibition has seen some tremendous response in the years and the number of visitors has gone from a few thousands to a whopping 15,500 visitors and also the number of Exhibitors has gone up from a few hundred to a huge 1500 + Exhibitors.

The Chinese exhibitors had displayed the most advanced Machines for the same. We had a lot of B2Bcustomers who visited the Stalls and found it very helpful for their business there were also a lot of business deals closed at the exhibition centre. This year also we have requested the Exhibition Organizers in China to get the most advanced machinery in Textile sector. We have started online portal www. chinahomelife247.com & www.chinamachinex247.com for pre-booking of your desired samples. The organizers have assured participation of the same for 2017 edition as well. The 2016 edition saw 15,500 Business Visitors and for the 2017 edition we expect to cross more the 20,000 Quality B2B Visitors to come for the show.+ This Year our exhibition starts from 5th to 7th December, 2017 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon. Mumbai. Pre-register to visit at www.chlmx.com.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Huntsman Textile Effects empowers employees to make a difference Community projects support core pillars of sustainability Singapore, 4 August 2017 -- Empowering employeeled teams to organize activities in their neighborhood, Huntsman Textile Effects is helping make local communities more sustainable. The company, which has operations around the world, seeks to make a difference through social, environmental and economic sustainability projects. "I am proud that associates across Textile Effects work closely together with their local communities to make a vibrant world possible today and for future genera68

tions," said Rohit Aggarwal, President,Huntsman Textile Effects. "From community programs promoting education and local enterprise to environmental initiatives such as recycling waste, beach cleaning and tree planting, we're making positive and lasting contributions to the communities in which we operate." Huntsman projects are designed by local employees to meet the needs of the communities in which we operate, in line with the core pillars of sustainability: people, planet, profit.

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In Gandaria, Indonesia, the Huntsman Textile Effects team donated air-conditioners to local mosques, which are important centers of community life in the area. Huntsman Textile Effects runs the award-winning Anandi program in Baroda, in India's Gujarat state. The program mobilizes staff volunteers and company funding in support of community projects focused on education, health, water and sanitation and animal husbandry. Recent education-sector activities have included a sports day for 500 children, a 10-day summer camp, and the distribution of 6,000 notebooks, 2,000 schoolbags and other school supplies. The team also supports village-based computer education and lifeskills training for teens. Environmental initiatives Since the textiles sector is a major global user of fresh water, water conservation is a key focus area for Huntsman Textile Effects. The Baroda team recently installed a 500 KL underground water tank to store water and meet the needs of more than 3,500 people in Luna, a village near to the Textile Effects plant. The project was operated on a Public-Private-Partnership model, in close cooperation with villagers and local administrators, and took close to two years to complete. In Atotonilquillo, Mexico, the Huntsman team continues to focus on recycling. It recently donated 150 recycling containers to local schools to encourage sorting and recycling of waste. It is also working with three schools in the Miraflores and Atotonilquillo villages to collect used batteries for recycling and safe disposal. More than 180kilograms of used batteries were collected from the schools over a 12-week period and will be sent to a certified external provider for proper disposal. Battery recycling has been an ongoing program by the Huntsman team in Atotonilquillo. Huntsman also regularly holds tree-planting days. At Mahachai in Thailand, 90 employees recently planted more than 80 pine trees at the manufacturing site. In addition to providing shade and other environmental benefits, the trees will also serve as a protective barMay - june 2017

rier to reduce noise and dust for the benefit of Huntsman's neighbors. This is a first phase of tree planting activities as part of a longer-term plan to build a small park on-site for associates. In Singapore, 50 Huntsman associates and their family members conducted a beach clean-up activity, working on stretch of Singapore's eastern shoreline and collectively gathered more than 20 bags of litter and rubbish that has washed ashore. The event marked the United Nations Environment Program's World Environment Day which is held annually on June 6 to raise awareness on environmental issues. Grassroots economic sustainability Huntsman Textile Effects' Anandi program, which is run by its Baroda team, helps nurture the local economy through an animal husbandry program, one of the focus areas under the initiative. It provides training and information on best practices to help local dairy farmers improve the yield and quality of milk from dairy buffaloes. Some 65 families from Umraya and 60 families from Luna benefit from the ongoing initiative. Baroda also supports local adolescent girls through innovative vocational programs that aim to inspire them as entrepreneurs. Thirty-eight girls from Umraya recently completed a two-month healthcare course, while 30 joined a three-month course on embroidery work. In the context of the wider industry community, Huntsman supports mills and brands to sustain their competitiveness, with innovative products and processes that help them conserve resources and reduce waste while meeting demand for high-performance, ecofriendly textile products. To remind staff of the value of their efforts, the Huntsman Langweid facility in Germany held an event for 150 employees. The site's energy-saving and waste-reduction programs were highlighted, along with customer success stories."At Huntsman Textile Effects, we believe that small local actions can bring about extraordinary global change when we all work together. Our approach to sustainability spans people, planet and profit and relies on innovation and collaboration," Mr. Aggarwal continued. "We are proud of the community efforts of our caring employees, and we will continue to support them in these efforts around the world." Media Contacts: Christina Koh +65 6390 6482 christina_koh@huntsman.com / Monique Mathieu +65 6390 6442 monique_mathieu@huntsman.com / Website: www.huntsman.com, www.huntsman.com/textile_effects 69

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Social sustainability in action In Fraijanes, Guatemala, the 37-stong Huntsman team has supported HogarNiĂąos de Fatima, a local children's home, and AYUVI, a charity that provides free treatment to children with cancer. For example, the team and local contractors contributed a significant number of hours supporting these two worthy organizations in 2016. This included collecting more than 290 kg of paper, 10 kg of packaging and 40 kg of plastic bottle caps in recycling-based fundraisers.

NEWS

ITMA 2019 Exhibition space booking in full swing 25% of space snapped up within first six weeks of launch

ITMA 2019

ITMA 2019, the world's largest textile and garment technology, has received strong response since online applications opened in May this year. Some 25% of the exhibition space has been booked by more than 300 exhibitors during the first six weeks, according to ITMA Services, the organizer of ITMA 2019.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. A.E. Roberts, Managing Director of ITMA Services, attributed the strong demand to the success of ITMA 2015 and the rapid technological developments within the textile and garment industry. He said, "We are delighted with this excellent response. The total space booked to-date is an impressive 150% increase when compared with the same period of ITMA 2015's application launch." He added, "ITMA has an excellent reputation and many global industry players are looking forward to using it as a launch pad for their new innovations. Among the sectors that have enjoyed the greatest take-up so far are finishing, printing, spinning, weaving and knitting, and we are particularly pleased with the strong response from Asian countries, particularly India which has already surpassed 60% of the total space it booked in the 2015 show. It is also encouraging to see that manufacturers of raw materials and garment machin-

ery are also applying early, and our exhibitors clearly appreciate the fact that ITMA is a complete, end-toend solutions showcase, from fibre to finished textile products." Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, and European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, which owns the ITMA exhibition, explained: "There is an enormous amount of research and development in the textile and garment industry, resulting in exciting new technologies and value-added products. Some of the powerful innovation drivers impacting the industry include digitization of products, processes and supply chains, as well as sustainability. Hence, despite the challenging business climate, the demand for leading-edge products continues to grow, and technology providers are still leveraging on ITMA 2019 to launch their new solutions to global textile and garment manufacturers and brands." The last ITMA exhibition, held in Milan in 2015, drew the participation of 1691 exhibitors from 46 countries. A post-show exhibitor survey found that over 90% of them rated their overall experience 'good' or 'excellent', and 93% indicated their interest to return to exhibit at the next ITMA, and that there is a strong competitive advantage exhibiting at ITMA compared with other shows. ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. Featuring the theme 'Innovating the World of Textiles', it will have exhibits showcasing an integrated textile and garment manufacturing value chain. Divided into 19 chapters, exhibits also include yarns, fibres and fabrics, and solutions for technical textiles and nonwovens, and garment making. Manufacturers interested to participate in ITMA 2019 should apply for space online at www.itma.com. For participation enquiries, please email : application@itma.com.

Visit Us On : Website : www.textileassociationindia.org 70

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Several captains of the industry were also present on the occasion, including Chairman, Aditya Birla Group, Shri Kumar Mangalam Birla, President, US Polo association, Mr. David Cummings; CEO, UK India Business Council, Mr. Richard Heald; MD, Arvind Mills, Shri Sanjay Lalbhai; Chairman and MD, Raymond, Shri GautamHariSinghania; and Chairman of Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI),Mr.Kihak Sung. Aditya Birla Group chairman Kumar Mangalam Birla said that India can fill the vacuum created by China. "China's exports have dropped by $20 billion and can further decline up to $50 billion. We can utilise this opportunity to make India the textile capital of the world," he said. Mr. Birla called for research and development in textiles. "We must step up rigor in skill development to deliver world-class productivity. We must also increase our investment in state-of-the-art research and development." I congratulate the PM Sh. NarendraModi for putting the Textile Industry at the centre stage today said Mr. Birla." NarendraModi today inaugurated Textiles India 2017, India's first ever mega textiles trade fair, being held at Gandhinagar, Gujarat. Addressing the gathering at Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, the PM said that based on Make in India, the textile industry is being infused with the mantras of 'skill,scale,speed' & 'zero-defect, zero-effect'. The PM said that the textile sector offers significant employment opportunities, it being the second largest employer after agriculture. The Prime Minister expressed the hope that Textiles India 2017 helps familiarize global & Indian leaders with India's enabling policy environment, strengths & vast opportunities. The full text of the Prime Ministers address is available here. Addressing the gathering, the Union Textiles Minister, Smt. SmritiZubinIrani said that history will be created in the field of textiles today, with the success of this mega event. The Minister said that Textiles India 2017 gives fillip to Honourable Prime Ministers dream of May - june 2017

Make in India. She said that besides seeking to engage participants in conversations leading to strategic partnerships that encourage investments, the mega event seeks also to bring together leaders in the global textile value chain together on one platform, to envision a glorious future for the Indian textiles industry. She informed that global citizens from 106 countries, 15,000 Indian buyers and sellers, 2,500 international buyers, international delegates and representatives and artisans and weavers who enthral us with their craft have come together under one roof on this occasion. Smt. Irani said that Textiles India 2017 brings together textiles, traditions and technology. She said it complements the Prime Ministers desire to strengthen the entire Indian textile value chain, comprising the journey of Farm to Fibre, Fibre to Fabric, Fabric to Fashion and Fashion to Foreign. Minister of State for Textiles, Shri Ajay Tamta, and Ministers representing Gujarat, Telangana, Maharashtra, Jharkhand, Assam and Karnataka were among several dignitaries who participated in the inaugural session. Governor of Gujarat, Shri O. P. Kohli; Chief Minister of Gujarat, Shri Vijay Rupani, Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh, Shri N. Chandrababu Naidu and MoS, Textiles, Shri Ajay Tamta addressed the audience. Minister for Irrigation, Handloom and Textile and Sericulture, Government of Assam, Shri Ranjit Dutta; Minister for Textiles, Government of Karnataka, Shri RudrappaManappaLamani and Minister for Cooperation, Textiles and Marketing, Government of Maharashtra, Shri SubashDeshmukh and Chairman, Jharkhand State Gramodyog Board, Shri Sanjay Sheth were also present. Chief Minister of the host state Gujarat, Shri Vijay Rupani said that Gujarat is fortunate to have gotten the opportunity to host Textiles India 2017. Shri Chandrababu Naidu complimented the Ministry of Textiles for organizing the event, saying that the textiles sector will continue to survive for times to come. 71

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Kumar Mangalam Birla, Chairman at Textiles India 2017.

NEWS

UMTA Management &Texstyles Academy It is a non -profit & service oriented organisation involved in creating awareness as well as imparting training & skill development in Eco Needs and Sustainable Solutions. It is based at Vapi, Gujarat, India. The focus activities are: 1.

Training and Skill Development in Textile Colouration, Denim Wash, Fibre& Fabric Evaluation, Recycling of Textiles, Customized Formulation and in related subject matters.

Assisting and training students in their Bachelor, Master as well as Doctorate programmes and special training to Research Students in their Projects.

Conducting Seminars, Giving Presentations, Interactive Programmes as well as Report Preparations on behalf of Customers like Associations, Brands & Retailers and Governmental Agency, NGOs and others

Environmental Awareness. Best Available Techniques and Cleaner Production.

Colouration of Textiles - Practical approach based on Industry experience, Understanding Theory and Fundamentals, Providing Solutions and Auditing, Preparation of Marketing & Promotional Aids, Assistance in preparing Business Plan for Sustainability.

International Standards & Regulations involving Regulatory Authorities, Brands, Retailers and Customers.

Current Areas of Interest - Texstyles&Colours

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Skill Development, International Standards, Environmental Solutions, Strategic Thinking, Trainings and Seminars Sustainability, Best Available Techniques, Textile Recycling, Textile Industry Review,Technical Textiles, Non Wovens, Textile Coatings , Smart Textiles Conducting Seminars, Giving Presentations, Interactive Programmes as well as Report Preparations on behalf of Customers like Associations, Brands & Retailers and Governmental Agency, NGOs and others.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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For more information, please contact: Hashmukh Shah Mobile: +91 94271 89738 E-mail: textiles.vapi@gmail.com NSK Srinivasan Mobile: +91 98256 57995 E-mail:nsk_sriyayahoo.com Kiranthreads Compound, Shed No. A1 / 47, Hundred Shed Area, Degam Road, GIDC, Vapi- 396195 Gujarat, India Brief Profile

NSK Srinivasan

Mr. NSK Srinivasan M.Tech from University of Madras as well as awarded FSDC - a fellow of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, UK having wide 40 Years' experience in the area of Colouration of Textiles, Leather and Paper. Done for the contribution in the area of Colouration of various substrates for more than four decades. He served in reputed organisation like Atul Limited,Atul, Central Leather Research Institute, Madras, Centre of Excellence, Vapiand In Manufacturing Area at Vaniyambadi, Tamilnadu and is associated with UMTA Management &Texstyles Academy, Vapi for more than three years. He has deep experienced in Technical Services, Quality Assurance, Product Promotion and Marketing, Providing Solutions to Customers and within the Organization. He has presented several technical Papers on Leather, Textiles, Dyestuffs and Quality in International and National Fairs and Seminars. Mr. Srinivasan widely travelled in India, USA, UK and Turkey for Technical Services, Business Promo-

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NEWS tion, Marketing and Innovation Approaches. He is actively involved in Quality Management areas including ISO 9001 Activities. He has contributed to the sustainable & profitable growth and diversification of the Organizationfor QA, Business Development, Product Management, Promotional Efforts, Customer Interactions and Corporate Image Enhancement. Presently with UMTA Management &Texstyles Academy, Vapi, involved in creating awareness as well as imparting training & skill development in Eco Needs and Sustainable Solutions for Texstyles&Colours area.

Hasmukh Shah

Mr. Hasmukh M. Shah has five decades of experience in Textile Field involving Yarn Trading for handlooms and power looms, Yarn Dyeing and Yarn Mercerizing as well as Supplying of products including RFD yarn and Fabrics for standardization of Dyes, Pigments and Auxiliaries and preparation of Shade Cards, Lab Instruments and Standards for Textile and Colour Industry. He has been awarded the Life Time Achievement Award

for his contribution in the field of Textiles by The Textile Association (India) during the TAI seminar at Vapi. He served as a board member of Bombay Yarn Merchants Association for 25 years.He is actively associated with Vapi Industries association, Vapi - holding the position of Chairman for the committee of Textiles, Railway as well as Skill Development. He is also a member of SDC, UK and AATCC, USA. Mr. Shah has a good relations with leading Textile Industrialists and with several Textile Mills dealers and also excellent interactions and relations with Institutions and Universities for Knowledge Sharing, Skill Development and Innovation. He is presently involved in the business of RFD Fabrics and Yarns for testing of Dyes, Pigments and Textile Auxiliaries, Lab Instruments for the Laboratories of Colours and Textiles, Consumables - Staining Fabric, Mulitifibers, Detergents, International Standards and related areas. He is assisting PhD, M.Phil and research students in Colours& Textiles by providing RFD Fabrics, Yarns and Consumables and helping them in Industry Placements. His current ambitions are Skill development, Knowledge Sharing, Establishing a Testing Laboratory and a Textile College. His dreams are coming into actions with a Textile Activity in Government Polytechnic coming up in Silvassa in near future. Mr. Shah visited UK & Europe and ITME Paris & Birmingham and actively associated with establishment of a Service Centre for Textile Machineries near Bardoli with involvement of Rs. 50 Crores investment for Developmental initiatives from Government of India.

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org

May - june 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

May - June 2017

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS

May - june 2017

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA India Licensing Expo 2017 Date : 20th-21st August, 2017 Venue : Hotel Sahara Star, Vile Parle, Mumbai, India Contact : Gitanjali Atwal, Business Manager #602, 6th Floor, The Pinnacle Business Tower, Shooting Range Road, Faridabad - 121009, Haryana India Tel. : +91 129-4223337, M: +91 9821333146 E-mail : gitanjali.atwal@licenseindia.com Website : www.licenseindia.com/expo ICAHT-2017 : 13th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles Date : 9th September, 2017 Venue : India Habitat Centre, New Delhi, India Contact : Mr. R. C. Kesar, Conference Secretariat OKHLA Garment & Textile Cluster D-104, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi - 110 020 Tel. : +91-11-41609550, E-mail : ogtc@ogtc.in, ogtc@airtelmail.in Website : www.ogtc.in

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

5th Edition China Machinex India 2017 and China Homelife India 2017 Exhibition Date : 05th to 07th December, 2017 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon. Mumbai. India Contact : Devisha Prajapati, Relationship Manager, MCO-Winmark Exhibitions Private Limited B-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency - 1 Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn., Santacruz (W) Mumbai - 400 054 India Tel. : +91-022- 26605550,M.: +91 9869150231 E-mail: devisha.winmark@gmail.com Website : http://www.chinahomelife.in, http://www.chinamachinex.in/ Techtextil India 2017 International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Date : 13-15th September, 2017 Venue : NSC Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - India Contact : PriyankaPawar - +91-22-61445990 Jesica John - +91-22-61445937 E-mail : priyanka.pawar@india.messefrankfurt.com, Jesica.john@ india.messefrankfurt.com 76

Largest International TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW ITMACH INDIA - International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition Date : 07th to 10th December, 2017 Venue: Helipad Exhibition Center, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat (India) Contact : ArvindSemlani - M.: +91-9833977743 E-mail : info@ITMACH.com RadhikaBoddu - M.: +91-9867127598 E-mail : info@itsexhibition.com BhaveshThakar M.: +91-9375322449 E-mail : allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.co Website : www.ITMACH.com ABROAD 7th International Apparel & Textile Fair Date : 01st to 03rdNovember, 2017 Venue : Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE Contact : 19th Floor, Conrad Hotel, Business Tower, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, UAE Tel. : +971-56 763 6517 E-mail : info@internationaltextilefair.com ITMA 2019 - Largest International Textile and Garment Technology Exhibition Date : 20th to 26th June, 2019 Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via, Barcelona, Spain Contact : Daphne Poon Marketing Communications Director ITMA Services Pte Ltd. 73 Ubi Road 1, #08-48 Oxley BizHub, Singapore 408733 Tel. : (65) 6849 9362 M: (65) 94789543 E-mail : daphnepoon@itma.com Website : www.itma.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. May - June 2017