e-journal - Sep-Oct 2020

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Dr. V. D. GOTMARE (Former HoD, Textile Dept., VJTI) Chairman, Editorial Board – JTA M.: 9833721022 / 8369488102 E-mail: vdgotmare@gmail.com vdgotmare@vjti.org.in

Dr. DEEPA V. RAISINGHANI

HoD (Dip.), Textile Dept., VJTI.

Mr. J. B. SOMA Hon. Associate Editor & Publisher M.: 9819801922 E-mail: jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com

Hon. Editor M.: 9820560567 E-mail: raisinghanidv@tx.vjti.ac.in raisinghanidv@vjti.org.in

Dr. S. DHAMIJA Former Prof. and HOD, TITS, Bhiwani M.: 9416132274 E-mail: dhamija_s@rediffmail.com sdershan@gmail.com

Prof. (Dr.) R. D. KALE Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), M.: 7738682384, 7021129839 E-mail: rd.kale@ictmumbai.edu.in

Dr. R. N. JOSHI Head & Associate Professor, Department of Textile Technology, Shri Guru Gobind Singhji Institute of Engineering & Technology, M.: 7588428778 E-mail: rnjoshi2020@gmail.com

Dr. Ms. HIRENI MANKODI Associate Prof. Textile Engineering Dept. Faculty of Technology, The M. S. University of Baroda, M.: 9376222724, E-mail: taibaroda@gmail.com dr.mankodi@gmail.com

Dr. SURINDER KUM AR TANDON Managing Director Tandon Textile Innovations (NZ) International Consulting Services R&D Commercialization, Education, Christchurch, New Zealand M.: +64 21 2951089 E-mail: surindertandonz@gmail.com

Dr. S. B. MHETRE C/o. DKTE Society’s Textile & Engg. Institute M.: 9822865422 E-mail: sbmhetredkte@gmail.com dkte@sancharnet.in

Dr. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR HOD, Textile Technology L. D. College of Engineering, M.: 9879233838 E-mail: ashwin39@yahoo.com ashwin39@gmail.com

Dr. CHET RAM MEENA Asstt. Professor, Dept. of Textile Design & Regional Industry Coordinator National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Jodhpur M.: 9920720970 E-mail: chetram.meena@nift.ac.in

Dr. Ms. NEHA MEHRA Asstt. Professor, VJTI M.: 98994888555 E-mail: mehrarneha@gmail.com nehamehra@tx.vjti.ac.in

Mr. ANKUR KOTHARI Kusumgar Corporate Pvt. Ltd. M.: 8980005248 E-mail: ankur.kothari@kusumgar.com


Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Ex. Chairman, Editorial Board – JTA M.: 9892070199 E-mail: mdt9pub@gmail.com mangesh95teli@yahoo.com

Dr. G. S. NADIGER Chairman, P.A.C. M.: 9820222745 E-mail: nadiger1950@gmail.com

Mr. G. V. ARAS Director Textile Engineering Group A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. M.: 9820039244 E-mail: gurudas.aras@ategroup.com

Mr. SUBHASH BHARGAVA Managing Director Colorant Limited M.: 9879114406 E-mail: mktg@colorantindia.com subhash@colorantindia.com

Mr. PANKAJ DANGRA Head Marketing India Rieter India Private Limited M.: 8805415600 E-mail: pankaj.dangra@rieter.com

Mr. SUDIPTO MANDAL Senior Sales Executive Oerlikon Textile India Pvt. Ltd. M.: 9172175627, 8169188493 Email: mandalsudipto007@gmail.com sudipto.mandal@oerlikon.com

Dr. P. P. RAICHURKAR Additional Director Man-Made Textiles Research Association (MANTRA) M.: 9923946044, 879367702 E-mail: raichurkar@gmail.com

Mr. RAKESH BALI Head of Marketing & Senior VP Petrochemicals (Polyester Chain, Chemicals , Elastomers & Polymers) Tel.: 44781227, M.: 9967013900 E-mail: rakesh.bali@ril.com

Mr. RAHUL BHAJEKAR Managing Director Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) E-mail: rahul.bhajekar@gmail.com bhajekar@global-standard.org

Dr. JAYWANT B. IRKHEDE Director, Leather & Footwear Textile, Clothing, Leather & Footwear: Industrial Competitiveness & Growth Branch: The Department of Trade, Industry and Competition, South Africa. M.: 0663012044 E-mail: jirkhede@thedtic.gov.za

Prof. (Dr.) ASHOK ATHALYE Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT) M.: 9819842623 E-mail: ashok.athalye@rediffmail.com ar.athalye@ictmumbai.edu.in

Dr. R. GURUPRASAD Senior Research Scientist Pulp and Fibre Innovation Centre (PFIC), Grasim Industries Ltd. M.: 8424055385, 9892975336 E-mail: guruprasad.rg@gmail.com r.guruprasad@adityabirla.com

Mr. RAJIV RANJAN Former CEO – Hindoostan Mills Ltd. M.: 9820280697 E-mail: rajivranjan81@hotmail.com

Mr. ARVIND PAHULKAR Managing Director Simplex Textile Mills, Bhiwandi M.: 9869110381, 9987522681 Email:arvindpahurkar1971@rediffmail.com


Life has changed over the past few months due to Covid-19 pandemic for the whole mankind. The precau ons of physical distancing, need of sani za on and wearing of masks having becoming a new normal for all, the methods of working have changed in every discipline and sector. Most organiza ons have switched over to work from home mode. Social gatherings, professional mee ngs as well as all academic ac vi es have switched to online mode. As the working processes are increasingly digitalized, learning and upda ng digital skills within short dura on has become the need of the hour and online learning and training is on the rise. Most of the online pla orms of educa on have come forward and helped the community by offering a number of online courses to improve their skills and u lize their me more effec vely. The work from home and social distancing measures has made every age group to switch over to online shopping for every requirement, be it their daily essen als, apparels or electrical-electronic gadgets. Physical distancing has forced the online buyers to rely on visual appearance instead of the sense of touch and feel. The tex le industry too has responded to these sudden changes in a swi manner. Series of online webinars conducted by various organiza ons in the tex le industry has kept the industry keep abreast with the latest technologies and machineries, making it possible for manufacturers to change their product mix from non-technical to technical tex les. The collec ve efforts of the tex le industry, research associa ons and the government policies helped in catering to the immediate requirements of large quan es of face masks and PPE kits required for front line workers and even for export to other countries. Due to the travel restric ons, the industry is gearing up with a contactless work culture by engaging with their customers through virtual pla orms for trade, investment and sourcing solu ons. Even exhibi ons have virtual. The vTexShow tled 'Re-Energise the Tex le & Clothing Business' hosted recently replicated the physical exhibi on into an online environment. Industries are further gearing up to enhance the customer experience in virtual exhibi ons using AI and augmented reality for video streaming of running machines. Many industries have come forward and supported students with online internships to complete their educa onal requirement. The online mode of working has given relief to people in terms of reduced air and noise pollu on, saving of travel me and saving of physical and economic resources. Nevertheless, it is taking a toll on the physical and psychological needs of humans. The new culture of work from home has resulted in reduced physical movement, more screen me and remaining contained in a closed environment devoid of fresh air and natural sunlight. Months of lack of physical ac vity and face-to-face interac on is now resul ng in stress and anxiety among humans. A blended approach of online and face-to-face physical interac on is desirable for a balanced human life. As said by Mar n Luther King Jr., 'Carve a tunnel of hope through the dark mountain of disappointment', the persistent research for development of a vaccine for Covid-19 gives a ray of hope for returning back to the freedom of physical movement. As the spring approaches, the new buds bloom and we hope for new beginnings and coming back to life again. I take this opportunity to welcome the new office bearers and appreciate the efforts and contribu ons of the previous team. Dr. Deepa V. Raisinghani Hon. Editor


Abstract Quercus robur L. commonly known, as English Oak is a deciduous tree that grows in shady ravines and produces greenish yellow flowers. Kashmir Pashmina shawl is the product of excellent artistry and skill that makes it one of the most delicate fabric in the world. Kashmir Pashmina locally known, as Pashm is a soft, downy undercoat hair of the Himalayan goat (Capra hiracus) found at the higher altitudes of Ladakh Region in India. In the present study, the potential of Oak bark found in Kashmir Valley as a source of dye for coloration of Kashmir Pashmina fabric and yarn was explored. Further the conditions for extraction of dye from oak bark and its application for dyeing of pashmina fabric and yarn were also optimized for the benefit of local Pashmina industry. The optimization of extraction and dyeing conditions of pashmina fibres was done using UV-VIS Spectrophotometer. The optimum extraction conditions were found to be pH = 7, time = 75 min. and temperature 97oC. Further, the optimum dyeing conditions were found to be pH = 5, time = 60 min and temperature 97oC. At optimized conditions, dyeability of pre and post mordanted fibres with Alum were assessed and compared. It was found that Pashmina samples dyed with Oak Bark extract using Alum as a mordant imparted brilliant brown shade having different hues and tones with excellent fastness properties. Thus, it was concluded from the present study that dye extracted from bark of Quercus robur L. of Kashmir Valley with Alum as a mordant can be used as a potent natural dye source for dyeing of Pashmina fibre based fabric and yarn. Keywords: Kashmir, Natural Dyes, Optimization, Oak bark, Pashmina

1. Introduction Kashmir Pashmina shawl is the product of excellent artistry and skill that makes it one of the most delicate fabric in the World. From 16-19th century, the Kashmir Valley (and to a lesser extent Iran) was the only region where the skills existed to exploit the full potential of the Pashm, the soft, downy undercoat hair of the Himalayan goat (Capra hiracus) found at the higher altitudes of Ladakh Region. The Pashm has a special luster owing to its ineness, the diameter of the Pashm ibre is about 1214 microns, whereas, the Merino ibres are 23 microns and human hair ranges up to 200 microns in diameter respectively [1]. Several mechanical and chemical processes are involved in the value addition of Pashmina products. One of the important steps is dyeing, constituting a separate class of workers, the dyers of Kashmir are pro icient in dyeing yarn and fabric with various brilliant colors and tints. Traditionally, it was a normal practice to dye Pashmina products with ingredients obtained from natural sources, however only those Pashmina products or yarns that were somewhat less than perfect, either in terms of *

All the correspondence should be addressed to: Hina Qazi Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, S.N.D.T. Women's University, Juhu Campus, Santacruz (W), Mumbai E-mail: qazihina17@gmail.com

texture or quality of natural shade were dyed. The good quality Pashmina fabric and yarn were used with their native natural color. The colors derived from natural vegetable dyes were kirmizy and gullaly (red), zaitooni (olive), badamy (light brown), fakhtai (grey), zaharmuhri (light brown) etc. In 1856, the British chemist Sir William Henry Perkin created the irst synthetic dye, mauveine by oxidizing aniline. By the end of the century, eighty synthetic dyes and coal tar derivatives were the principal source of synthesized dyes. Though these dyes became immensely popular, the shades they achieved were far too strong and harsh, so by the end of the century there use was banned in both Kashmir and Persia [2]. The aesthetic value of Pashmina products could be improved by application of natural dyes extracted from locally available vegetable sources [3]. However, some of the major limitations with the usage of natural dyes are shade variation apart from moderate fastness [4] and cost of dyeing [5]. Natural dyes exhibit better b i o de g ra da b ilit y a n d g e n e ra lly h ave a b et te r compatibility with the environment. They are less toxic, less polluting, non-health hazardous, non-carcinogenic, easily available and renewable [6]. There are vast numbers of natural colours that can be obtained from nature for coloration of textiles. The Bark of Quercus robur L. commonly known, as English Oak was used as a dye source for dyeing of Pashmina Fabric and Yarn. (Fig. 1 and Fig 2).


Table 1: Recipe used for pre- mordanting of It is not possible to produce the same shades at every Pashmina yarn and fabric dyeing operation when using a particular natural dye. This is due to the fact that the crude extract of plants that Parameters Condition for mordanting is used as dye may contain various chemical constituents M:L 1:40 as impurities. The chemical constituents in a crude Temp 50-60oC extract vary depending on the season, soil type, region, Time 1 hr etc. [5] The conditions for extraction and dyeing were optimized in order to overcome the limitation faced by pH 2-3 artisans while dyeing Pashmina with natural dyes. The optimization of P o s t extraction and m o r d a n t i n g : d y e i n g The dyeing of conditions pre-soaked we re carried Pashmina out by UV/VIS samples was Spectrophotom carried out eter over the w i t h range 200optimized 800nm. Dyed d y e i n g Figure 1: Tree, Bark, Powder Pashmina fabric and yarn were conditions. The dyed also assessed for color fastness Pashmina samples were to washing, light and rubbing. washed and rinsed thoroughly with tap water. 2. Materials and methods Dyed Pashmina samples were mordanted as per 2.1 Pashmina Yarn & fabric recipe given in Table 2. and dye 100% hand spun Pashmina yarn The dyed and mordanted and hand-woven Pashmina and samples were washed with fabric having 82/61 EPI/PPI non-ionic detergent [9]. were purchased from Pashmina Figure 2: Undyed Pashmina Fabric and yarn traders of Kashmir region. Oak Bark was collected from different parts of Srinagar, Kashmir (J&K). Laboratory grade Alum was used in the study as mordant. 2.2 Scouring and mordanting The samples of Pashmina yarn and Fabric were washed with 2 % non-ionic soap at 50oC for 20 mins, maintaining the material-to-liquor ratio (M: L) of 1:80. The scoured materials were thoroughly washed with tap water, hydroextracted and dried as ambient temperature under shade (27oC) [7]. Pre mordanting: The Pashmina samples were soaked in warm water before mordanting for 30 minutes. The parameters for mordanting were followed presented in Table1 [8]. Post-mordanting: The dyeing of pre-soaked Pashmina samples was carried out with optimized dyeing conditions. The dyed Pashmina samples were washed and rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Dyed Pashmina samples were mordanted as per recipe given in Table 2.

Table 2: Recipe used for post- mordanting of Pashmina yarn and fabric

Parameters

Condition for mordanting

M:L

1:40

Temp

50-60oC

Time

1 hr

pH

2-3

2.4 Optimization of Extraction of Quercus robura L. bark extract Extraction media was aqueous based liquor having different pH of 1:50 M:L ratio (material to liquor ratio) was taken for the study in an exhaust bath. In order to ind optimum extraction conditions, a series of trials were performed in accordance with parameters such as pH, time and temperature. Acidic pH (Buffer-Acetic acid CH3 COOH) and Alkaline pH (Buffer-Sodium Carbonate Na 2 CO 3 ) were used to maintain the pH. Trials for optimization are summarized in Table 3 2.5. Optimization for dyeing with Quercus robura L. bark extract Extraction media was aqueous based liquor having


different pH of 1:60 M:L ratio was taken for the study in an exhaust bath. In order to ind optimum dyeing conditions, series of trials were performed in accordance with parameters pH, time, temperature and dye concentration. Trials for optimization are summarized in Table 4. Dyed Pashmina fabric and yarn samples were washed with non-ionic detergent and thereafter, rinsed with tap water, hydro-extracted and dried under shade at ambient temperature (27oC) under shade. The dyed samples so obtained were subjected to assess for color fastness properties. The percentage dye absorption of the dyed samples was calculated by following formula: Percentage dye absorption = O.D before dyeing- O.D after dyeing O.D before dyeing

x 100

2.7 Fastness properties Evaluation of the fastness properties of the dyed Pashmina fabrics and yarns was done as per ISO standard test methods ISO 105-C10, ISO 105 X-12 and ISO-105-A03 for assessment of light, washing and rubbing fastness values respectively. Methods for evaluating these properties are brie ly discussed as follows.

the specimen was removed, rinsed in cold and hot water respectively [10,11]. 3. Results and discussion 3.1 Optimization for extraction 3.1.1 Effect of pH The maximum dye substance from oak bark were extracted at pH 7 (neutral medium) under controlled conditions (Fig 3a and Table 3). The dye from the fruit cups of Quercus robura L. of Kashmir Valley has been extracted by Soxhlet apparatus using distilled water as solvent at 80-85oC [7]. The pH 4.2- 4.4 was reported for extraction of colour from oak bark (Quercus Linnaeus) [12]. The possible reason being the phenolic substances present in different varieties of oak trees studied.

Table 3: Optimization of parameters for extraction natural dye from oak bark Parameters

Experiments

pH

2, 5, 7, 10,14

t-Time (min)

30, 45, 60, 75, 90

Control Conditions

Optimized condition

t = 60min T= 97oC

7

pH = 7 T = 97oC

75

T- Temperature 80, 85, 90 95, pH = 7 97 2.7.1 Fastness to light (ISO 105-B02) (oC) 97 t = 60 mins Pashmina Samples were exposed simultaneously 3.1.2 Effect of extraction time to a light source of Xenon arc lamp using a Xenon test chamber (Model Xe-1-S, Q-SUN) under speci ied The optimum extraction time of color components from powdered Oak Bark under controlled conditions was 75 conditions for 10 hours. The colorfastness to light of the mins. However, after 75 mins, it was observed that no dye specimen was evaluated by comparing the colour change was extracted beyond this time. (Fig 3b and Table 3). The of the exposed portion to the masked control portion of optimum time for extraction of dye from oak bark by the test specimen using Grey scale for color change re lux extraction method was reported as 60 mins.(13) [10,11].

2.7. 2 Fastness to Rubbing (ISO 105 X-12) Colour fastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was assessed as per ISO-105-X12 method using manually operated PROLIFIC Crock Meter with inger of 1.6 cm diameter moving to and fro in a straight line over a 10±0.30 cm track on specimen with a downward force of 9 N. Dry & wet crocking test was performed on a 5 x 13 cm piece of dyed sample placed on the base of Crockmeter under speci ied conditions with its long dimension in direction of rubbing. [10, 11]. 2.7. 3 Fastness to washing (ISO 105-C10) A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the dyed fabric was taken, sandwiched between two adjacent undyed white fabrics and stitched round the edges. The soap solution contained 5 gm of soap per litre of distilled water. The solution was heated at 60oC for 30 minutes. The liquor ratio was 1:50 i.e., 0.5g/25 ml. After soaping treatment,

Figure 3a: Optimum extraction (pH)


Figure 3b: Optimum extraction (t) 3.1.3 Effect of extraction temperature The optimum extraction temperature of 97 o C was recorded under controlled conditions (Fig 3c and Table 3). The temperature of 102oC was reported (13) for extraction of dye from oak bark by re lux extraction method. The difference in time can be attributed to the methods adopted for extraction of dye from the source. The optimized conditions for extraction of coloring matter from Quercus robura L. bark were; Dye extraction medium pH = 7, extraction time = 75 min and temperature = 97oC. (Table 3 and Fig. 2a –c). Oak bark is known to be rich in extractable and hydrolysable tannins and Polyphenolic components.

Control Optimized conditions Parameter

Parameters

Experiments

pH

2, 5, 7

t = 45min T = 97oC

5

Time (min)

30, 45, 60

pH = 2 T = 97oC

60

Temperature (oC)

80, 90, 97

pH =2 t = 60 mins

97

Dye concentration ( %)

10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60

t = 60mins T = 97 pH = 2

40

From Fig. 4a and 4b, it can be seen that the optimum pH for dyeing of Pashmina fabric and yarn was 5 pH. The results are in conformity earlier report [13]. The Possible reason may be due to the varieties of Oak tree and protein based Pashmina and Tussah silk material.

Figure 4a : Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina fabric at different pH

Figure 3b: Optimum extraction (Temp.) The hydrolysis of such components could be a possible explanation for the higher content of coloring matter. Natural colorants from Oak bark were successfully applied on wool [12]. 3.2. Optimization for dyeing of Pashmina yarn and fabrics Factors such as pH, time, temperature and dye concentration have a signi icant role in dye adsorption by any textile materials. Table 4 summarizes the results for optimization of recipe for dyeing of Pashmina with Quercus robura L. bark. 3.2.1. Effect of pH

Figure 4b : Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina fabric at different pH


3.2.2 Effect of dyeing time From the Fig.4c and 4d, it can be seen that (Table 3) the optimum time for dyeing of Pashmina fabric and yarn is 60 mins. The optimum duration of dyeing reported for dyeing of Tussah silk was 80 mins (13) which is longer than the reported optimized time by the present study. Possible reason could be the different textile chemistry of Silk and Pashmina, the Pashmina being very ine and delicate fabric effective surface area of ibre-liquor interaction is more.

Figure 4e: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina fabric at dyeing temperature (oC)

Figure 4c: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina fabric at different dyeing time (mins.)

Figure 4f: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina yarn at dyeing temperature (oC)

Figure 4d: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina yarn at different dyeing time (mins.) 3.2.3 Effect of temperature Effect of temperature under control conditions for dye absorption by Pashmina fabric yarn are represented at Fig.4e and 4f and Table 3). The optimum temperature for dyeing of Pashmina fabric and yarn was 97oC. These results are in close conformity with the optimum temperature of 98oC reported for dyeing of Tussah silk [13]. The possible reason being both Pashmina and Tussah both are protein-based ibres and having similar morphological properties.

3.2.4 Effect of Dye concentration Among the concentrations viz; 10%, 20% ,30%, 40%, and 50% of the dye powder over weight of the material (OWM) used for dyeing of Pashmina yarn and fabric, 40% concentration (OWM) was found to be optimum (Fig 4g & Fig.4h). These Results are higher than those reported earlier [7]. Earlier report stipulated 4% concentration of dye extracted from Oak cups Quercus robura L. OWM for dyeing of Pashmina fabric. The possible reason could be the Soxhlet extraction method employed [7] in comparison to hot and cold percolation method adopted in the present study research. The optimized conditions for dyeing were found to be pH = 5, dyeing time = 60min, temperature = 97oC, and dye concentration = 40 per cent. (Table 3, Fig. 4a-h). Quercus robura L. bark extract- a natural dye containing high content of bio phenolic compound [14] and rich in extractable tannins [12], may serve as an eco-friendly substitute to synthetic dyes presently used by the Pashmina industry of Kashmir valley.


Figure 4g: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina fabric on dye concentration percent (OWM)

3.3. Eect on color fastness Table 5 and 6 gives the color fastness values with respect to rubbing, light and washing of Pashmina samples dyed with Oak bark extract using Alum as a mordant. The pre and post mordanting technique were used for all the samples. All the samples have shown good to very good rubbing, light and wash fastness. Fastness data from Table 5 and 6 indicates that pre- mordanting technique increased the dye uptake of samples and helps in transfer of color to the Pashmina fabric and yarn. Good washing, rubbing and light fastness of tussah samples dyed with oak bark extract using Alum as a mordant are also reported similar to the present data on pashmina [13]. Further, Good to excellent wash, rub and light fastness have also been reported for Pashmina fabric dyed with oak cups extract using Salix alba L. extract as mordant [7]. Table 5: Fastness properties of Pashmina Fabric dyed with Oak bark extract

Mordant technique

Light fastness Grade

Rubbing fastness Grade

Washing fastness Grade

Pre mordanting

5

5

5

4/5

4/5

Post mordanting

4/5

Table 6: Fastness properties of Pashmina yarn dyed with Oak bark extract Figure 4h: Percentage dye absorption by Pashmina yarn on dye concentration percent (OWM)

Pre mordanted sample

Post mordanted sample Figure 4: Pashmina sample dyed with oak bark extract and mordanted with Alum.

Mordant technique

Light fastness Grade

Rubbing fastness Grade

Washing fastness Grade

Premordanting

5

5

5

Post mordanting

4/5

4/5

4/5

4. Conclusion From the present study, it can be concluded that the optimum conditions for extraction of dye from oak bark are pH = 7, time = 75 min and temperature 97oC and the optimum dyeing conditions for dyeing of Pashmina fabric and yarn with oak bark extract are pH = 5, time = 60 min and temperature 97oC. All the Pashmina fabric and yarn samples dyed with oak bark extract and mordanted with Alum showed good to very good rubbing, light and washing fastness. Thus, dye extracted from the bark of Quercus robura L. of Kashmir valley has the potential to be used as the eco-friendly dye for dyeing both Pashmina fabric as well as yarn imparting attractive brown shades and tints. Further, mordanting with Alum improves light, washing and rubbing fastness, hence it can be anticipated, that dyeing of pashmina with oak bark dye extract under optimized extraction and dyeing conditions would improve the aesthetics and marketability of Pashmina products.


Acknowledgment The author is thankful to Department of LPT, Sheri Kashmir University of Agricultural Science and Technology- (SKUATKashmir) Shuhama, Kashmir for providing technical support and Pashmina Quality Evaluation Laboratory facilities. References 1.

Rizvi J. and Ahmed M., Pashmina: The Kashmir Shawl and Beyond. Marg Publications, India, (2009).

2.

Rehman S. and Jafri N., The Kashmiri Shawl-From Jamawar to paisley. Mapin publihing, India, (2005).

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Samantha A.K. and Agrawal P., Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 34(4), 384, 2009.

4.

Umbreen, S., Ali, S., Hussain, T. & Nawaz, R., Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 12, no. 5, pp. 1-11. (2008)

5.

Kuldeep K. Sharma, Pawan K. Pareek, A. S. M. Raja, Priyanka Temani, Ajay Sharma, RJTA Vol. 17 No. 2 (2013)

Kumar, D. B. Shakyawar, Mahesh C.

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Adeel S., Ali S., Bhartti I.A. and Zsila F., Asian Journal of Chemistry, 21(5), 3493-3499, (2009).

7.

Geelani M.S., Ara S., Mishra P.K., Bhat S.J.A., Hanifa S., Haq S., Jeelani I., Qazi G., So i A., Mir S., Khan P.A., Wani S.A., Raja A.S.M., Journal of Applied & Nat. Sci., 7(1), 138, (2015).

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Yusuf M., Shabir M. and Mohammad F., Nat. Prod. Bioprospect., 7, 123, (2016).

10. Kulkarni S.S., Gokhole A.V., Bodoke U.M. and Pathode G.R., Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 1(2), 135, (2011). 11. Kumaresan M., Palanisamy P.N. and Kumar P.E., International Journal of Chemistry Research, 2(1), 232, (2011). 12. Bechtold T. and Christa F., Society of Dyers and Colourists, Colora. Technol., 135, 32-39, (2018). 13. Jia Y., Liu B., Cheng B., Li J., Huang F. and Lu Y., Text. Res. J., 87(15), (2017). 14. Drozdz P. and Pyrzynska K., Eur. J. Wood Prod., 76, 793, (2018).


Abstract Craftsmanship has always been the fundamental commotion of human society and India is often considered as the land of crafts and craftsmen. The traditional craftsmanship in India is not bound to the skill with materials or handling tools, it also embraces the extraordinary imagination and aesthetic sense of the craftsman. Textiles of Rajasthan are diverse in both manufacturing technique and design. Bagru, a town located near Jaipur city of Rajasthan has a tradition of hand-block printing for almost 400 years. This block printed textiles are mainly produced with the help of different colour combinations, motifs and patterns according to caste, community and marital status. In Bagru, almost every household of the Chhipa community is associated with the craft of hand block printing. The craft has been an integral part of their lives and they considered it as devotion which makes the craft excellent and exclusive. Keywords : Bagru, Block Printing, Chhipa, Craft, Rajasthan

1. Introduction The craft history of India is rooted back to one of the oldest civilisation of World and since then a signi icant development took place in crafts like textile, stone, metal, pottery and wood. The crafts were initially a medium to express one's creativity which then became a medium for the people to ful il the needs of their day-to-day life and, later on evolving for trade and commerce, royals and local people, therefore, they tell us a lot about the culture and lifestyle of the native people. The characteristics of Indian crafts vary from region to region depicting the origin of crafts as per the climatic conditions, cultural diversities, traditions, and rituals, etc [1]. Textiles in the earlier days played an important role in depicting the religion, caste or social status of a person. They were categorised by different colours, motifs, and patterns, also the way of wearing a textile was different for different social groups. Bagru, a town located approximately 30 Kilometres from Jaipur city near the Jaipur - Ajmer highway. Every household of the Chhipa community in Bagru is associated with the craft of hand block Printing. Although Bagru is renowned for the production of traditional hand-block printed textiles, there are other crafts available at Bagru as well. The Raiger community of Bagru is involved with the manufacturing of beautiful leather goods and supply of raw leather to big companies, whereas the Muslim community mainly produce ceramic and wooden products, as well as mosaic lanterns. *

All the correspondence should be addressed to: Sankar Roy Maulik, Department of Silpa-Sadana, Textile Section, Visva-Bharati (A Central University), Sriniketan, West Bengal E-mail: s_r_moulik@yahoo.co.in

The women of the Chhipa communities have a great involvement in the craft, they wake up early to work throughout the morning in preparing the fabric for printing and the rest of their day is spent in doing the household work. The women wear veils over their heads while working which symbolises their marital status. Even though, earlier only Chhipa community was a part of the hand block printing of Bagru, but now some of them have opened small scale production unit and many migrated craftsmen from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, now work under them for all the seasons except for rainy season when they go back to their villages to manage their native agricultural lands. As the sun and the large ields play a vital role in manufacturing of printed textiles in Bagru, no printing is done in Monsoon. The making of wooden blocks for Bagru printing is also an example of a splendid craftsmanship. The skill of the block makers is really commendable; their choice of wood, proper measurement and skilled carving is what makes the blocks, unique and perfect. There are several stories behind the origin of the Chhipas. The Chhipas were Kshatriyas and the word is derived from the Hindi word “Chipna” i.e. to hide. It is also said that they got the name from the word “chap” or “chapna” which means to print. Around 400 years back, the Thakur of Bagru brought the Chhipas from Isarda, and helped them to settle down in the fertile land of Bagru, beside the bank of the Sanjaria River. This was followed by migration of more people there. It is said that availability of water was the main reason behind the migration of the Chhipas to Bagru. The abundance of lowing water in the Sanjaria River helped in the dyeing and printing process of Bagru. Though the river has been dried for over 50 years, many elderly still remember the advantages of the


river [2]. Traditionally produced printed fabrics include Fadats (printed fabrics with intricate buti motif for ghagras and cholis), Lugdis (fabrics used by women to cover their heads), Angochhas (medium sized towels), Bichhunais (bed or loor coverings), Razai (quilts) etc. It was reported that the tribal people from Nagaur used to go to Dishawar and on their way they crossed Bagru, the Chhipas produced printed textiles for them and they used to collect them while returning to Nagaur [3] and since then the craft has been a part of the lives of the Chhipas and they considered it as devotion which made the craft excellent and exclusive.

numerous numbers of raw materials are required. Table 2.1 and Table 2.2 describe the use of various raw materials and tools required for block making and different stages of preparing, printing and inishing a textile at Bagru. Figure 1 shows the various tools and equipments used during block making process. 3. Manufacturing All the inished products observed in the market are the result of intensive planning, sourcing of raw material, preparation and execution of the plan. The manufacturing process in case of printed textiles of Bagru is the same; it starts with motif and pattern development, which is followed by block making, wet processing of the grey fabric, Harda (Myrobolan) treatment, colour preparation, printing, development of colours and packaging.

2. Raw materials Most of the raw materials required for Bagru printing is cultivated in Bagru itself and a few are transported from Madhya Pradesh. Since the manufacturing of printed textiles in Bagru is a time consuming process, hence

Table 2.1: Raw materials and tools used for block making

Raw materials and Tools

Wood

Metal

Types

Teak (Tectona grandis) Seesham (Dalbergia sisso) Gurjan (Dipterocarpus turbinatus) Rohida (Tecomella undulata) Ardu (Ailanthus excelsa)

Brass

Uses

The main raw material required for both wooden and metal block making is wood. The designs are carved on the smoothened surface of the wood using various carving tools. Metal strips are cut from a metal sheet and then beaten to make them thin, so that intricate designs can be made by engraving them into the wooden block and beating.

Karauti (Saw)

-

To cut the block

Multani mitti (Fuller’s earth)

-

To trace the design

Thappi

-

To beat the chisels

Sil Dadi

-

To sharpen the tools

-

To carve the designs

-

To shape the edges

Bada Tikora (Big tri-edged tool)

-

To shape and sharpen the metal chisels

Chorsi (Flat blade tool)

-

To cut the wood

Thappe (Carving tools)

-

Traditional tools have wooden handles, while modern tools don’t have it

Kil (nails)

-

To ix the handle to the main block

Lac ki chapdi (Glue)

-

To join separate parts of the block

Lac aur Khadiya mitti ki chapdi (Glue and Alabaster)

-

To trace the impression of design

Kabani, Muthiya and Shaari (Bow and drill arrangement) Chota Tikora (Small tri-edged tool)


Wet processing of fabric Raw materials & Tools

Uses

Areetha (Soap nut)

Used to remove starch from the gray fabric

Cow dung

Traditionally used for scouring Dyes and mordants

Harda (Myrobolan)

It is used before dyeing and acts as a mordant

Khurtaal (Horse shoe)

It is used to prepare the black colour

Gur (Jaggary) Imlee ke Beej (Tamarind seeds)

It is used to remove the rust from the horse shoe surface . Acts as a reducing agent The viscosity of the black print paste depends on tamarind seed powder. Presently TKP is used

Gond (Natural gum)

It is used as a binder during the preparation of Begar or Red colour

Lal Mitti (Red sand)

It is the main ingredient used during the preparation of Red colour

Fitkari (Alum)

It is a mordanting agent and helps to create af inity between dye and fabric.

Guar Phali ke Beej (Cluster bean seeds)

Presently it is used as a binder in print paste as well as in Dabu paste

Alizarin

It is used to obtain the red colour, as well as producing vibrant shades while inishing

Anar ka chilka (Pomegranate rind)

It is used to achieve the green shade

Haldi (Turmeric)

It is used to achieve both yellow and green shades

Dhwadiya ke Phool (Anogeissus latifolia)

It is used after printing process in order to produce uniform and vibrant shades along with Alizarin

Neel (Indigo)

It is used for producing dierent shades of blue and green

Kali (Lime)

It is used in Indigo vat tank to maintain proper fermentation and in Dabu paste to prevent cracks

Kali mitti (Black clay)

It is used as the resisting agent in Dabu paste

Beedan (Wheat charms)

It is used in Dabu paste as an adhesive Printing equipments

Pathiya

Mogri and Khotan

The traditional printing table is a bit low in height and the length is also short. It is covered by layers of cotton and woolen fabrics for better absorption of dyes. Due to its small size, production is low and hence it is replaced by Mej i.e. comparatively long rectangular printing table The traditionally used Mogri is a wooden mallet, which is used to beat the shrunken fabric against the marble platform called Khotan to straight en it after printing

Tamda

It is a traditional copper vessel, which is used during dyeing with Alizarin

Bhatti

It is a furnace and provides constant heat to the copper vessel

Printing Tray

A wooden tray, used to keep the colours while printing

Kambli

A felt cloth kept on the tray for proper transfer of colours to the block

Mesh

A mesh is kept on the colour tray below the felt cloth for a uniform absorption of print paste by the block (both Dabu and natural dye)


4. Motifs The motifs of Bagru can be classi ied as loral, inter twisted tendrils, igurative and geometric. These motifs were very intricate and small in size, and initially largely in luenced by different elements of nature. Later, different geometrical forms viz. circulars, diamonds, conical etc were also being used. Presently, though some

of the traditional motifs are used but a lot of contemporary motifs have captured the market. Table 4.1 depicts the name of some traditional motifs along with their appearance and meaning used in the Block printing of Bagru (Source: Titanwala Museum and Anokhi Museum of block printed textiles).

Table 4.1: Traditional motifs associated with block printing of Bagru

Meaning

Name

Chidi Ki Buti

A bird motif

Chiuara Ki Buti

Dates motif

Kairi Ki Buti

Raw mango motif

Ankhada

Nose ring

Aam Ki Buti

Mango motif

Khirni

Floral motif

Seedha Patta Ki Buti

Straight leaf motif

Bewda

Twin pots

Daffodil motif

Singh Baaj

Lion’s claw

Floral motif

Panch kala Ki Buti

Floral motif with ive petals

Spinning wheel motif

Panadi Bel

Vine

Name

Appearance

Appearance

Meaning

Nargis Ki Buti

Rewdi Ki Buti

Chakri Ki Buti


Meaning

Name

Bar i Ki Buta

Diamond motif

Purani patashi Ki Buti

Old temple oering motif

Gundi Ki Buti

Floral motif

Mota Lehriya Ka Buta

Broad wave motif

Parcha Ka Buta

Geometric motif

Name

Appearance

5. Block Making Block printing is popular due to its simple process to create intricate designs. It is practiced in dierent regions of India and the art of block making consists of cutting a design on blocks made either of wood or other soft materials. Wood used for making the blocks must be fairly hard with closed grains and should be free from all defects, viz. knots, cracks etc. The process of block making starts with cutting the wood as per the size of the block. Then it is ixed on a small stool called Tipai and sand paper is used to smooth the surface. The wood is coated with a mixture of chalk powder and gluing agent. Outline of the design is then traced onto the smooth surface of the block using fuller's earth. The measurement of design should be done properly, so that the block doesn't become skewed. It is followed by carving and drilling, and lastly the handle is ixed to the block with the help of glue. After the completion of carving process in 5 to 20 days as per the size of the block, it is soaked in sesame oil for a fortnight in order to prevent excessive absorption of colour by the block during printing. Table 5.1 describes various types of blocks and their use. Table 5.1: Types of blocks and their uses

Name

Description and use

Gadh

Primary or Blotch block

Datta

Secondary or foreground iller block

Rekh

Tertiary or Outline block

Butis

Small motifs

Butas

Bold motifs

Mota Patta

Thick stripes

Patla Patta

Thin stripes

SEPT-OCT, 2020 Volume 81 No. 3

Appearance

Meaning

6. Processing of the grey fabric The fabrics for printing are purchased from various parts of India, viz. Bhiwandi in Maharashtra, Erode in Tamil Nadu and Bhagalpur in Bihar. The gray fabric contains natural and added impurities i.e. oil, dirt and starch. These impurities should be removed for uniform penetration of colours and also to increase water absorbency of the fabric. Traditionally, the process of desizing and scouring was done with cow dung. In this process the fabrics were dipped in a solution made of cow dung and water and kept in it for whole night, the next day fabric was washed in the lowing river by the women and dried on the river bank. Water was again sprinkled on those dried fabrics and the process was carried out at least for 5 to 6 times a day. This process was followed for 3 to 6 days until the fabric became cleaned. Now-a-days, the removal of the impurities is done with Areetha (Soap nut). In this process, the fabric is dipped in the aqueous solution of Areetha for overnight, which is followed by beating, washing and inally drying. Presently, the artisans are also using soda ash, caustic soda, sodium silicate, T.R oil, detergent etc for to increase fast production.

6.1 Harda (Myrobolan) treatment This process is also called pre-mordanting, and is done to ensure proper absorption and retention of the natural dye in the fabric. In this process, Myrobolan powder is 150


mixed with water and the fabric is dipped in it. The process continues for some time. The fabric is taken out, squeezed and is spread lat on open grounds under sunlight, which makes the exposed side darker in shade than the side facing the ground. After drying, the fabric is beaten using a Khotan (Figure 2) or wooden mallet over a Mogri (Figure 2) or marble surface to remove the powdered particles and also to straighten the fabric. This process turns the colour of the fabric yellow. The drying

process is done by hanging the fabrics from a height using a constructed drying system made of Bamboo (Figure 3). 6.2 Colour preparation Yellow, blue, red, green, black, maroon colours used for dyeing and/or printing are prepared by using dierent naturally occurring materials. Table 6.1 shows the various colour preparation process..

Table 6.1: Colour preparation procedures Colour

Preparation procedure

Yellow

Dyeing of grey fabric with Myrobolan (Terminalia chebula ) produce yellow shade. Myrobolan is also used as mordanting agent in order to achieve proper shades of black, red and maroon . Yellow colour is also obtained by mixing turmeric extract and alum

Black

Siyahi or black colour used for printing is obtained by mixing rusted horse shoe and jaggery in water for 15 days. The extract is collected and boiled in presence of Tamarind seed powder or TKP until it becomes viscous enough to print over the pre -mordanted fa bric with Myrobolan , which gives the black shade

Red

Traditionally the Begar or red colour was produced by mixing natural gum ( Gum Arabica), red stone (Gehroo) and alum. This paste was used for printing on pre-mordanted fabric. Now-a-days guar gum, alizarin and alum is used for achieving red colour.

Maroon Green

Blue

This shade is obtained by mixing black and red print paste in the proportion of 1:5, 2:3 or 3:2 ratio Green shade is obtained by mixi ng extracts of pomeg ranate rind, turmeric and alum . Alum is used as a mordanting agent Blue shade is obtained from natural indigo. Indigo dyeing is mainly used for mud -resist or Dabu printing. A vatting bath tank (Nil ka math) is dug in the ground of about 13 feet depth and 2 feet width, where 15 m fabric of 84 inches width can be dyed at one time. The tank is illed with water (approx. 1156 litre) and natural indigo dye cakes are added. This is followed by the addition of lime stone, jaggery and pomegranate extract and the bath is kept untouched for whole night and the next day dyeing is performed. Lime stone, jaggery and pomegranate extract are added every evening to maintain proper fermentation. The tank is cleaned once a year as the depth of the tank decreases due to deposition of mud coming out from the mud resist printed fabrics.

6.3 Printing with natural dye After the colour is prepared, adequate amount is put on the colour tray. The colour tray is placed on a wooden trolley. The mesh is then put over the colour, followed by covering it with a felt cloth. It prevents the blocks from excess absorption of the colour. A piece of wood is used to evenly soak the felt cloth in colour. The desired block is then touched and slightly pressed with the felt cloth to take up the colour. This is followed by gently stamping on the fabric placed on the printing table (Pathiya or Mej) (Figure-8) and occasionally thumping the block handle for proper transfer of the colour from block to the fabric. 6.4 C olour development A copper vessel called Tamda (Figure-9) is illed with water, to which required amount of Dhwadiya ke Phool (Anogeissus latifolia) is added. It is then placed on the Bhatti or furnace and a ine cloth illed with powdered Alizarin is dipped and swirled till the Alizarin gets

properly mixed with the solution. The printed fabric is then added and stirred constantly until the colours develop properly. After the colours become darker the fabric is taken out and dipped in a bath of aqueous extract of Myrobolan, which turns the yellow background to owhite or beige. 7. Dabu printing and dyeing Bagru is also famous for the mud-resist printing or Dabu printed fabrics. Dabu is often used after the printing with natural dye in order to avoid aecting the previously printed motifs. The background is generally printed with Indigo and occasionally with green, yellow, black, red etc. The main ingredients for Dabu paste includes black clay and lime soaked in water over night, wheat charms, gum arabic and water. All these are mixed together using legs and sieved through ine cloth to remove the stone chips and other impurities.


There are mainly three types of Dabu viz. Kaligar Dabu, it is suitable for single dip dyeing and processing. Dolidar Dabu, it requires more gum, to improve the adhesiveness, as it is used for double dip dyeing. The most unique and traditionally used is Gvar-phali dabu, which is made using roasted and powdered cluster bean seeds cooked with water until a thick consistence paste is developed. Separately lime, jaggery and oil are heated and kept for cooling over night. These two are then mixed and rolled into balls which are then powdered in a Chakki, followed by mixing with previously soaked black clay. It is then sieved using ine cloth. The Gvar-Phali dabu has excellent adhesive property and hence can be used in multiple dip dyeing. Due to the long process of gvar-phali dabu, most printers prefer Kaligar and Dolidar dabu these days [2]. The prepared dabu paste is poured on the colour tray and is covered by a mesh made either of iron or bamboo. Blocks are then pressed slightly over the colour tray to transfer the paste and then it is printed over the fabric laid on the printing table. Since, the paste is sticky, to avoid sticking of the motifs and patterns, saw dust is sprinkled over it and the fabric is spread on the grounds for drying and it is kept overnight. 7.1 Colouring the background Table 7.1 represents the procedure of preparing back ground colours.

to be nicely kept for storage till its exhibition in the market. It needs to be packed properly for both domestic and export markets. In Bagru, the craftsmen roll the fabric with a centre support of foam or plastic pipes and sometimes wrapped with plastic or spare fabric to prevent crease and dirt. The indigo dyed fabrics are folded and wrapped with black plastics to prevent crease marks due to exposure to sunlight. 9. Perspective of artisans The craft has a signi icant in luence in the livelihood of the artisans since they are inancially dependent on it. This craft is not practiced during the rainy season, so the artisans attached with this traditional printing process have to make pro it from the work done in rest of the year, so that they don't suer any inancial shortcomings during monsoon. During the monsoon, the migrant workers generally go back to their villages to work on their ancestral agricultural lands. A craftsman works for average 8 hours all over the year except for summer season, when days are long and he works for 9 hours. The artisans are satis ied with their wages. 10. Surveyor's note The craft of printing with natural dyes in Bagru is really depiction of the creativity and skill of the craftsmen. The printed textiles of Bagru have an average market, but due to changes in the preference of the consumers the use of

Table 7.1: Background colouration procedures

Background colour

Procedure

Blue

The dried Dabu printed fabric is pleated and dipped into an Indigo vat tank . The artisans are very much experienced and the person who is responsible for dyeing is called Nilgar. The fabric is opened inside the bath to avoid premature oxidation and then taken out, squeezed and spread on the ground for oxidation and drying. The remaining mud is removed by thorough washing along with beating.

Green

A solution of pomegranate rind and turmeric extract is applied on th e Dabu printed fabric using Potai technique, where the fabric is hold and stretched properly by four craftsmen and a small fabric dipped in the solution is used to apply the solution all over the fabric [2]. The fabric is then dried followed by dipping in a solution of alum. It is then washed, beaten, squeezed and dried

Grey

The Dabu printed fabric is dipped in the Myrobolan bath and dried, after that it is soaked in a solution of ferrous sulphate for a day which is followed by washing and drying.

8. Packaging One of the most dif icult tasks after manufacturing a craft is to bring it to consumer's acquaintance. The craft needs

original printing techniques and motifs has been changed to a certain extent. Additionally, to increase the rate of production many have stopped the original


process of desizing and scouring and opted to use chemicals. The use of synthetic dyes has increased because of the bright and vibrant shades, good colourfastness properties and fast production process. Moreover, the next generation of the chhipas are mostly prefer white collar jobs, the printing which was once their identity and lead them to better lifestyles have lost its importance. The increased use of synthetic dyes is a potential threat to the environment, as it causes a huge level of water pollution; hence it's a choice which comes with consequences. The natural dyes have multiple bene its, in addition to being eco-friendly and biodegradable, so they need to be promoted. Additionally, the traditional crafts like printing of Bagru depict our close relation with nature, simple lifestyle and exclusive craftsmanship. So,

each of the crafts are foundation of our culture and tradition and need to preserve them, otherwise, their practice will be lost with time and so will our culture and tradition. After having conversations with several artisans, it has been observed that the government really helped the craft to lourish after its recognition in the year 1975 by sending samples of hand block printed textiles from Bagru to international market. Government helped the artisans to participate in various exhibitions in India and abroad as well to showcase their crafts. But this has stopped about 10 years ago and since then though some of the artisans are doing satisfactory business a lot of them are suffering due to downfall in the market. Hopefully, this craft will again receive government intervention to lourish and to be emerged as an sector of commercial importance.

Acknowledgement Authors are very much thankful to Mr Nithesh Chhipa, Mr Vishnu Chhipa and Mr R.K Derawala for cooperating ef iciently, showing their works and helping in communication with the artisans and successful understanding the unique craft. References 1. Poompuhar, Evolution of Indian Handicrafts, Retrieved from Tamil Nadu Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd: http://tnpoompuhar.org, (2017). 2.

Raj S, Bagru - a traditional printing technique of Rajasthan, https://www. ibre2fashion.com, (2012).

3.

Dhall S K, Origin, History and development of Bagru, https://shodhganga.in libnet.ac.in, (2014).

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Abstract One of the categories of technical textiles is meditech or medical textiles. Use of these products include medical devices, personal protective equipment (PPE) and other allied items of textile origin used in medical and health care industries. Due to a virus- COVID 19 pandemic affecting the entire globe in past few months has led to heavy demand for some of the medical textiles especially medical devices and PPEs. Due to stringent quality requirement for these products, vigilant conformance to the technical specifications is absolute necessity to contain with the problems associated with virus menace afflicting the whole world. India was a major importer of the PPEs at the beginning of the corona affliction in India. Due to proactive policies of government of India and intensive involvement of Indian textile industry, India has transformed from importing country to an exporting country. In this pursuit, the technical specifications of medical devices/PPEs need to be met by the Indian Exporters. The present article is an attempt give an overview on the subject especially EU/USA markets. PPEs/medical devices having textile base are discussed with regard to international and or national standards for evaluation of the technical parameters including Masks, Coveralls, Gown, Hand Glows and others.

Keywords : Meditech, Covid-19, PPE, pandemic 1. Introduction Medical textiles such as Masks, Coveralls, Gown, Hand Glows and protective clothing such as water repellent or oil repellent, lame retardant and antimicrobial are being used either for protection of healthy persons (worn to protect oneself when in contact with an infected individual) or for source control (worn by an infected individual to prevent onward transmission). However, the use of single protective/medical device such as N95 mask alone is insuf icient to provide required level of protection or source control, and hence, other personal and community level measures are needed to suppress transmission of respiratory viruses. The World Health Organization (WHO) has developed speci ic guide lines on IPC strategies for health care settings, long-term care facilities (LTCF), and home care. In December 2019 a novel coronavirus (2019-nCoV) was identi ied as the causative agent of a severe acute respiratory illness among people exposed in a seafood market in Wuhan, China; Human-to-human transmission has been documented, including in healthcare workers, and aerosol-generating procedures (AGP) may play a role in the spread of the disease. There are uncertainties in the * All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Dr. G. S. Nadigar, Chairman, P.A.C. TAI 102, Augustus, Lodha Paradise, Near Majiwada Flyover, Thane (W) – 400 601 M.: 9820222745 E-mail: nadiger1950@gmail.com

natural history of the 2019-nCoV, including source(s), transmissibility mechanisms, viral shedding, and persistence of the virus in the environment and on fomites. As part of preventive measures and curtail the infection rate of health care workers along with patients, Personal protective equipment (PPE) are deployed. Personal protective equipment, or PPE, is designed to provide protection from serious injuries or illnesses resulting from contact with chemical, radiological, physical, electrical, mechanical, or other hazards. Careful selection and use of adequate PPE would protect individuals involved in chemical emergencies from hazards affecting the respiratory system, skin, eyes, face, hands, feet, head, body, and hearing. No single combination of protective equipment and clothing is capable of protecting against all hazards. Thus, PPE should be used in conjunction with other protective methods, including exposure control procedures and equipment. The COVID-19 is pandemic and has forced the world to adopt new ways of living, including the wearing of masks, sanitization and social distance as a new norm. Since adequate supply of medical devices and protective clothing was not found to meet the challenges, Indian Textile industry with policy intervention and support of Government of India developed strategies and has even accelerated R&D efforts in development of materials for production of medical textiles and design to offer better


protection for the users. The present article provides an overview of Personal Protective Equipment/ Medical devices (PPEs) in regard to protection mechanism, production, and performance testing of them towards quality evaluation and performance. It is pertinent to mention that the ight against any infectious diseases requires efforts and solutions in prevention, detection, diagnosis, and treatment. The wearing of masks therefore serves as a key strategy towards airborne disease prevention that cannot be easily substituted.

over the last few months. The impact of the same has been quite severe in US and EU geographical zones of mother earth. In order to contain with the situation, these countries had to take several measures including ban on export of PPEs, Fast track procurement of PPEs under public procurement measures from different sources and strict and vigilant quality management of the products being supplied to avoid ill impact of the substandard quality of the products in addressing the Corona pandemic on the Corona warriors.

2. Perspectives of Medical Textiles Medical Textiles are used in hygiene, health and personal care, as well as in surgical applications. These products include: wipes, baby and adult diapers, adult sanitary and incontinence products, as well as, medical and surgical products, such as operating gowns, operating drapes, sterilization packs, dressings, sutures and orthopedic pads. In the last several years, global market of medical textiles developed stably, with an average growth rate of 8(%). In 2015, the global production of medical textiles reached 3258 K MT. With developed manufacturing technology and low labour cost, China has been the largest supplier, with the production market share over 32(%) in 2015, and other Asian regions also accounted for over 34(%) of the market share in the globe. Europe accounted for over 34(%) of market size in 2015. The market is developed in Europe due to the mature healthcare sector, growing consumer demand for improved healthcare facilities. North America is the second largest regional segment accounting for over 29(%) of the global market volume in 2015. Meanwhile, China and other Asia regions demand is projected to witness a high growth rate of over 10(%) due to increasing penetration of disposable baby diapers and feminine hygiene products.

In this pursuit, apart from managing the supply chain ef iciently, the conformance to technical speci ication with regard to characterization by harmonized standard methods of testing various material and performance properties is recommended. The classi ication of risk in de ining the requirement of personal protective equipment differs in the two geographical zones based on the statutory laws. Mechanism and systems of quality assurance also vary in both the regions.

Non-woven textile dominated the global medical textiles market, accounting for over 57(%) of global volume in 2015. This segment is projected to gain market share over the forecast period, due to high performance characteristics such as easy disposability, costeffectiveness and reduced danger of crosscontamination. Healthcare & hygiene products and nonimplantable goods application segments together accounted for a share of nearly 60(%) in 2015. Healthcare and hygiene products are rapidly gaining popularity in the developing regions including Asia Paci ic, Latin America, and the Middle East due to rising healthcare infrastructure. The global Medical Textiles market is valued at 12200 million US$ in 2018 and would reach 18500 million US$ by the end of 2025, growing at a CAGR of 5.3(%) during 2019-2025. COVID 19, a dreadful virus, has affected the entire globe

3. Personnel Protective Equipment (PPE) Personal Protective Equipment (PPEs) are becoming increasingly important to protect the personnel from different kinds of risk encountered in their activities. Among them, medical related are more complex as these have to address the biological factors along with chemical, mechanical, thermal and radiological aspects. This area has become all the more important after the occurrence of the COVID 19 pandemic which has spread across the globe and has resulted in loss of lives along with halting of all the economic activities. Since the COVID 19 pandemic is an unanticipated calamity, most of the nations were not prepared to address prevention of infection at the desired pace. The outcome of it has led to the current situation. USA, Spain, UK and Italy are intensely affected countries and as such COVID 19 pandemic is quite alarming. One of the bottlenecks in is short supply of PPEs to contain with the infection. India has taken timely action to addressing the infection and medical treatment required. Indian strategies are well appreciated by the world community, which is due to the interventions of different nature by Government of India, state Governments and local administration followed by proactive response by the industry and service support system bodies/ organizations. There has been a well knitted integrated approach in containing with the COVID 19 pandemic in India. India has been an importer of PPEs over the years especially from China, Europe and USA. Due to the current situation, USA and EU have curtailed the export of these items to make sure that the domestic consumption is met fully. There are stray instances of inferior quality of the PPEs supplied by the exporters from China. Keeping these factors, Indian


Industry responded to the timely needs of the pandemic, and initiated producing the PPEs. R&D Institutes and testing organizations extended the hand holding support to the manufacturing units across India. The outcome of these efforts has resulted in substantial supply of PPEs domestically. It is now reported that India has now reached second position in the manufacture of PPEs next only to China. Due to the augmented production to meet the domestic demand and surplus quantum of production has been witnessed. Government of India has eased the export regulations and permitted the export of items per month to the tune of ive million. Having seen the business opportunities and future prospects of PPEs market, Indian industry has now geared up to expand the export market by adding PPEs in their portfolio. It is noted that medical PPEs are required to meet the technical and statutory requirements. These requirements under harmonizing of standards under the ambit of International Standards Organization (ISO), though to be similar or same, the European Union and USA have their own Technical norms and testing method for evaluation of the PPEs to ascertain the conformance to the intended use. In view of this, development of Indian standards as per international norms is parallelly being done by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) and various R&D organizations in association with Indian Industry. 4. Perspectives of Personal Protective Equipment (PPEs) - EU Market Virtually all activities carry an element of risk, some of which can be eliminated by common sense and safe working practices, but other hazards are inherent to the activity and these can only be reduced by the use of PPEs. PPEs are generally being considered a last resort when the risk cannot be eliminated in some other way. PPE is de ined by European legislation as any device or appliance designed to be worn or held by an individual for protection against one or more safety or health hazards in the execution of the user's activity. It is used in a wide variety of situations. The majority of PPEs is deployed in industrial applications although the Directive also covers PPE for leisure use as well. Industrial PPE includes items such as protective clothing designed for hazardous environments such as lameretardant clothing for protecting welders and foundry operatives and chemical resistant clothing for those people involved in working with or handling chemicals. In Europe, one of the pieces of legislation designed to create an open single market covers a signi icant proportion of PPE. This legislation is formally called

Council Directive 89/686/EEC, but is more commonly referred to as the “PPE Directive”. It speci ies in general terms what features should be addressed in the design of PPE and how it should be tested and certi ied. Products meeting the requirements of the PPE directive should be marked with the 'CE' symbol. For some years now it has been illegal to place an item of PPE on the market in a European state unless it carries the CE mark. However, many manufacturers are only vaguely aware of the requirements and their obligations. EN standards describe in detail how a particular type of product should be tested and what performance is required to achieve a satisfactory pass. The tests developed for the various standards are designed to assess the products against what is known as the Basic Health & Safety Requirement (BHSR) of the PPE Directive for the hazards of the particular activity for which the product is intended to be used. The European Commission reviews standards and if they are suitable, they become of icially 'harmonized' throughout Europe, and have a 'presumption of conformity' such that products that are fully covered by and meet the standard requirements are deemed to satisfy the Directive general safety requirements. Harmonized standards are not the only means of demonstrating compliance with the PPE Directive. A manufacturer can use any technical speci ication as long as it can be shown to satisfy the PPE Directive essential safety requirements. However, if a harmonized standard is available for the particular product being examined, manufacturer or supplier would need to have a sound technical argument for not using it. In certain areas, such as niche or leading- edge products, there may still be no harmonized standards available, in which case a technical speci ication detailing how compliance is to be demonstrated must be documented and adopted. Typically, the tests necessary to certify an item of PPE, by and large, cover the following four main categories: v Innocuousness: Generally, a subjective assessment for any parts of the product such as sharp edges that may cause injury. It may also include some quantitative tests such as measuring the pH or quantity of trace toxic substances in the product's raw materials. pH is a measure of the inherent acidity (or alkalinity) of the extractable matter from the material. In use, liquids such as perspiration and rain can cause this extractable matter to leach out of the material onto the wearer's skin and if the pH is too far from neutrality, it may lead to skin irritation v Ergonomics: Usually a small- scale practical wear trial which involves the wearer carrying out a range


of movements typical of normal use and reporting any restrictions or discomfort caused by the PPE v Protective coverage: Particularly important for products such as impact protectors. The minimum dimensions are speci ied, usually this is dependent on the size of the intended wearers, and the area is often checked against a standard template v Protective qualities: A range of physical laboratory tests to mimic accident scenarios, examples include impact tests often involving measuring the force transmitted through the sample, strength tests such as tear, tensile or dynamic drop tests in the case of PPE to protect against falls from a height. For clothing to be worn in cold or wet environments these tests would include waterproofness and thermal insulation. During the development of European standards, individual Member states are prohibited from working on their own standards which ensures that all new standards produced in Europe for products covered by the PPE Directive do not differ signi icantly between European member states. For instance, safety footwear designed and sold in Germany should have been tested to the same standard as a similar product designed in France or the UK. European standards are also achieving widespread acceptance worldwide and a number of other countries outside Europe are also taking advantage of the progress being made under the PPE Directive by either using the European standards or modifying them slightly to meet their own requirements. Many European standards are also forming the basis of International standards produced by the International Standards Organization (ISO). 4.1 Categories of Personal Protective Equipment (PPEs) as per EU, Essential Speci ications and their Certi ication for the intended Use There are three categories of PPE recognized by the Directive and these are based on the risk, consequences (type of hazard) and severity of injury likely to occur to someone not wearing adequate PPE. Each category requires a different level of involvement by a Noti ied Body. Ø “Simple” design PPE covers products that claim to provide protection against only minimal risks with effects that are gradual and can be safely identi ied by the user in good time. Products considered to be 'simple' category are listed in the Directive. Washing up gloves are an example. This category of PPE can be 'self-certi ied' by the manufacturer or European

importer without the need for the product to be veri ied by a third party – the involvement of a Noti ied Body is not required. However, an enforcement authority would expect to be able to examine a technical dossier backed up by appropriate test reports and it is recommended that records of some testing carried out by an independent test center (Accredited Laboratory as per ISO 17025:2017) are maintained in order to provide documentary evidence which can be used to support any claims made about the product within the scope of Directive. Ø “Complex” design PPE covers products that claim to provide protection against risks of mortal danger or dangers that may seriously and irreversibly harm the health of the user. Again, a list is detailed in the Directive. The product has to be certi ied by a Noti ied Body and is subject to initial type examination and ongoing (annual) production checks. Ø All other products fall into a third unnamed category often called “Intermediate Design” or “Category 2”. These are products that claim to provide protection against risks of severe injury. Initial examples of these products and associated documentation must be certi ied by a Noti ied Body. Ø Noti ied Bodies (NBs for certi ication are generally Europe-based organizations which have been appointed by Member State Governments and noti ied to the European Commission on the basis of their ability to carry out the examinations and tests required for marking of PPE. In addition, they must also be independent and impartial and have appropriate professional indemnity insurance. There are currently 114 NBs throughout Europe ;105 in EU Member States and ive in EFTA (all in Switzerland and Norway), and these are all subject to routine surveillance at regular intervals. It is possible to identify which Noti ied Body has certi ied the product because their name, address and unique number has to be displayed on the accompanying user information. A network of representatives from the Noti ied Bodies meet on a regular basis to ensure that the standards and legislation are being applied uniformly across Europe. 4.2 The new PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425 implemented from 21st April 2018 PPE Directive 89/686/EC governed the sale and distribution of personal protective equipment (PPE) till 20th April 2018 and is superseded by Regulation (EU) 2016/425. This new Regulation governs the obligations


of manufacturers, authorized representatives, distributors and importers, as well as test facilities and certi ication bodies. They are the irst to be affected by these changes and at the same time, the new Regulation brings more safety and transparency to the PPE users. 4.3 New PPE classi ication as per EU Regulation (EU) 2016/425 The current Directive places PPE into one of three categories. This in turn stipulates the kind of conformity assessment procedure that applies. The new Regulation stipulates the categories according to the level of risk from which the PPE should protect the user.

Table 1: Terminologies employed in the PPE regulation 2016/425 PPE Directive 88/686/EEC

Category I

Manufacturers Self Declaration

Module A- Internal Production Control

Category II

Article 10- EC Type Examination

Module B-EU Type Examination Plus Module C- Internal Production Control

Category III

Article 10- EC Type Examination plus, either; Article 11A- Ongoing Surveillance through testing or Article 11B- Ongoing Surveillance through factory auditing

The three categories are: Ø Category I - includes small risks, e.g. super icial injuries (PPE: gardening gloves) or harm to the eyes from the sun's rays (PPE: sunglasses). For these types of PPE, an internal production check by the manufacturer is suf icient. Ø Category III- includes risks that can have very serious consequences, such as death, or irreversible damage to health, e.g. hazardous substances and mixtures (PPE: respiratory devices, chemical protection suits) or falls (PPE: fall prevention equipment). Harmful noise is recognized in the new Regulation as an irreversible health hazard. Hearing protection, life jackets and PPE to protect against chainsaw injuries have been placed in category III for the FIRST time. Ø For PPE in category III, an EC type examination is required, i.e. testing and certi ication by a noti ied body. A noti ied body must also carry out recurring product tests at irregular intervals, or monitor (audit) the quality assurance system. Furthermore, internal production control by the manufacturer is a requirement to ensure that any manufactured PPE corresponds to that tested at the Noti ied Bodies. Ø Category II includes risks that are not included in category I or III. For corresponding PPE, an EC type examination and an internal manufacturer product control are required. Ø All PPE, including Cat I products, will require a technical ile, the contents of which are de ined in m o re d e t a i l . C E m a rk i n g a n d c e r t i i c a t i o n requirements are similar but the references will change Ø The Table 1 gives the new terminologies:

New PPE Regulation 2016/425

PPE Category

Module B-EU Type Examination Plus either; Module C2 – Product Veri ication or Module D – Production Quality Assurance

5. Essential Technical Requirements of PPEs required for European Market Essential technical requirements for Gowns, gloves, masks, respirators, eye protection and coveralls where no CE mark has been obtained or where an alternative use is proposed of an existing CE marked product as stipulated by Health and Safety Executive (HSE) and the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) in the UK are described in the following paragraphs. It may be noted that in spite of BREXIT, UK still follows the EU public procurement legislation (Regulation (EU) 2016/425) and conformity assessment and market surveillance procedures within the context of the COVID-19 threat dated 13th March 2020 by EU). Both the PPE Regulation and the MDR 2002 lay down essential requirements on health, safety and performance of the products they cover. However, both EU legal frameworks are technologically neutral and do not prescribe any speci ic mandatory technical solutions for the design of the products. Therefore, a number of technical solutions may be used by manufacturers to meet these essential requirements. (Conformity assessment procedures for protective equipment Version 1: 27 March 2020). In view of the above, it is noted that the products are therefore designed and manufactured in accordance with either:


a) a relevant harmonized European standard, or b) any of the standards referred to in the WHO guidelines or, c) any other non-EU standard or technical solution, provided that the speci ic solution ensures that the product complies with the applicable essential health and safety requirements. Hence, the supplies of PPEs are done as per the applicable clauses of each category of PPEs and the EU regulation stipulated under COVID 19 pandemic. Keeping these points in the back ground, the essential technical and labelling requirements for these products to support meeting the criteria speci ied above is documented in

guidelines by UK. Its use is, according to UK, only for the duration of the Covid-19 outbreak and products must not enter regular distribution channels or be made available to other users other than NHS health and care workers. Similar sentiments are expressed by EU under “Fasttrack procurement of PPEs” to contain with COVID- 19 pandemic. Table 2 gives the essential Technical speci ications for various types of Medical devices and Table 3 gives the essential requirements of PPEs. The product speci ications address the essentials in evaluation of the product integrity and product performance including, Innocuousness, ergonomics, Protective coverage and protective qualities.

Table 2: Medical Devices- Essential Requirements Medical Item : Surgical face masks

Device Type Single Type I use/disposable (Not generally intended for use by NHS workers

Medical Device Essential Technical Requirements for derogation applications to the MHRA Design and Performance: ·

·

·

·

Relevant standards for design and performance

BS EN 14683:2019 Medical Must provide a bacterial iltration ef iciency (BFE) face masks. Requirements and test methods of 95% or above to be labelled Type I if tested to BS EN 14683 or Must have differential pressure of less than 40Pa/cm2 to be labelled Type I if tested to BS EN ASTM F2100 minimum 14683 Level 1 Must it closely over the nose, mouth and chin of the wearer. The use of deformable nose bands or or nose bridges are recommended which can equivalent technical enhance it by conforming to the nose contours. solution Manufacturer must have quality management system in place with evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 or equivalent

·

Label: See MDR Annexture I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognised symbols

·

Must indicate masks type of mask. ‘Type I’ (if it complies with BS EN 14683) or should state ‘not luid resistant’ as appropriate

·

Should have an expiry date


Device Type Type II Single use /disposable

Medical Device Essential Technical Requirements for derogation applications to the MHRA

Relevant standards for design and performance

Design and Performance:

BS EN 14683:2019 Medical face masks. Requirements and test methods

·

·

·

·

·

·

· Type IIR (Fluid resistant surgical mask (FRSM) - Single use /disposable

Must provide a bacterial iltration ef iciency (BFE) of 98% or above to be labelled Type II if tested to BS EN 14683 Must have differential pressure of less than 40Pa/cm2 to be labelled Type II if tested to BS EN 14683 Must it closely over the nose, mouth and chin of the wearer. The use of deformable nose bands or nose bridges are recommended which can enhance it by conforming to the nose contours. Manufacturer must have quality management system in place with evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 or equivalent Label: See MDR Annex I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols Must indicate masks type. ‘Type II’ (if it complies with BS EN 14683) or should state ‘not luid resistant’ as appropriate Should have an expiry date

Design and Performance ·

Must have a splash resistance pressure of 16.0 kPa (120mm Hg) or above to be labelled Type II if tested to BS EN 14683

·

Must provide a bacterial iltration ef iciency (BFE) of 98% or above to be labelled Type IIR if tested to BS EN 14683

·

Must have differential pressure of less than 60Pa/cm2 to be labelled Type IIR if tested to BS EN 14683

·

Must it closely over the nose, mouth and chin of the wearer. The use of deformable nose bands or nose bridges are recommended which can enhance it by conforming to the nose contours.

· Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 · Label: See MDR Annex I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols · Must indicate type of mask. 'Type IIR' (if complies with BS EN 14683) or should state luid or splash resistant as appropriate if equivalent test for splash resistance has been carried out · Should have an expiry date

or ASTM F2100 minimum Level 1 or

equivalent technical solution


Medical Item : Gloves

Device Type Surgical glove - Sterile - Single use/disposable - Powder-free

Medical Device Essential Technical Requirements for derogation applications to the MHRA

Relevant standards for design and performance

Design and Performance

BS EN 455-1:2000 Requirements and testing for freedom from holes.

· Must be made of well-established materials for this product area such as polyisoprene, polychloroprene, nitrile, latex or neoprene. · Must be validated as sterile – with Sterility Assurance Level (SAL) of 10-6 · Should have long cuffs, reaching well above the wrist · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 · Label: See MDR Annex I –information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols

or BS EN ISO 374-2 Protective gloves against dangerous chemicals and microorganisms. Determination of resistance to penetration. BS EN 455-2:2015 Requirements and testing for physical properties.

BS EN 455-3:2015 Requirements and testing for biological evaluation. (In terms of sensitivity for · Gloves containing latex must be labelled with the the wearer e.g. latex symbol for latex on at least the smallest packaging protein) unit and caution placed in the instructions for use BS EN 455 4:2009 against its use where there is a known allergy to - and testing Requirements latex. for service life · Must have an expiry date determination. · Must specify the size or · Must be labelled STERILE along with the method of sterilization

Examination glove - Single use/disposable - Sterile or Non- Sterile - Powder-free

Design and Performance

ANSI/ISEA 105

· Must be made of well-established materials for this or product area such as nitrile, vinyl or latex ASTM D6319 · Should have long cuffs, reaching well above the and BS EN 556-1:2001 for wrist terminally sterilized medical devices for · Label: See MDR Annexure I – information to be sterility aspect (where supplied with the device and use of symbols in applicable) accordance internationally recognized symbols · Where applicable, must be labelled STERILE along with the method of sterilization · Gloves containing latex must be labelled with the symbol for latex on at least the smallest packaging unit and caution placed in the instructions for use against its use where there is a known allergy to latex. · Must have an expiry date · Must specify the size


*

Medical Item : Gowns *Reusable gowns that are intended to be reprocessed in between uses; manufacturers should refer to BS EN 13795 for guidance. They are not the same products as single use/disposable gowns.

Device Type

Medical Device Essential Technical Requirements for derogation applications to the MHRA

Surgical gown Design and Performance - Sterile · Should be made of well - established materials for - Single use/ disposable this product area which have considered - Can include thumbloop lammability properties or cuffed gowns · Must be validated as sterile – with Sterility Assurance Level (SAL) of 10-6 · · ·

BS EN 13795-1:2019 Surgical clothing and drapes - Requirements and test methods or AAMI PB70 (all levels accepted or equivalent) and BS EN 556-1:2001 for Made of recognized materials for this product area terminally sterilized which have considered lammability medical devices (where applicable) The length must be mid-calf or equivalent technical Should have bonded seams solutions

Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 High Performance gowns

·

Hydrostatic pressure requirements (Liquid penetration): must be 100cm H2O or above if tested to BS EN 13795. Standard Performance gowns ·

Gown - Non-sterile - Single use/disposable or Reusable (in line with the manufacturer’s intended use and instructions) Can include thumb-loop or cuffed gowns

Relevant standards for design and performance

·

Hydrostatic pressure requirements (Liquid penetration): must be 20cm H2O or above if tested to BS EN 13795.

·

Label: See MDR Annex I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols

·

Must be labelled STERILE along with the method of sterilization

·

Must state the type of gown

·

Must address the level of luid resistance of the gown

·

Should have an expiry date

·

Must include warnings on its use in certain areas ( lammability) where appropriate

Design and Performance ·

Should be made of made of well - established materials for this product area which have considered lammability properties

·

The length must be mid -calf Should have bonded seams Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or EN 13485


High Performance gowns · Hydrostatic pressure requirements (Liquid penetration): must be 100cm H2O or above if tested to BS EN 13795. Standard Performance gowns · Hydrostatic pressure requirements (Liquid penetration): must be 20cm H2O or above if tested to BS EN 13795.

Reusable (in line with the manufacturer’s intended use and instructions)

·

Label: See MDR Annex I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols

·

Must state the type of gown

·

Must address the level of luid resistance of the gown should have expiry date Must provide reprocessing instructions for reusable gowns (those intended by the manufacturer to be reprocessed) and number of cycles. These sho uld be compatible with healthcare laundry wash processes speci ied in Health Technical Memorandum 01-04. Decontamination of linen for health and social care (an industrial laundry cycle that achieves 71oC for 3 minutes)

·

Must include warnings on its use in certain areas ( lammability) where appropriate

Design and Performance ·

Should be woven – material known to not cause irritation on the skin

·

Label: See MDR Annex I – information to be supplied with the device and use of symbols in accordance internationally recognized symbols

·

Must provide reprocessing instructions. They should be compatible with healthcare laundry wash p rocesses speci ied in Health Technical Memorandum 01-04 Decontamination of linen for health and social care (an industrial laundry cycle that achieves 71oC for 3 minutes)

WHO Guidelines on Scrubs may be referred.

Table 3: Personal Protective Equipment (PPEs) essential requirements

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Disposable half mask respirators

Type FFP3 valved FFP3 unvalved

PPE Essential Technical Requirements for authorisation applications to the Health and Safety Executive Design and Performance · Mask covers the nose and mouth and the chin and may have inhalation and/or exhalation valve(s). The mask consists entirely or substantially of ilter material. · Should have 2 elastic straps (may be adjustable) that go around the head and neck

Relevant standards for design and performance BS EN 149:2001+A1:2009 Respiratory protective devices — Filtering half masks to protect against particles — Requirements, testing, marking.


Table 3: Personal Protective Equipment (PPEs) essential requirements

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Type

FFP2 valved, FFP2 unvalved

Re-usable half mask respirator – particle ilter

Re-usable half mask respirator – with P3 particle ilter

PPE Essential Technical Requirements for authorisation applications to the Health and Safety Executive

Relevant standards for design and performance

· Shall be offered for sale pack aged in such a way that they are protected against mechanical damage and contamination before use. · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485. Design and Performance · Mask covers the nose and mouth and the chin and may have inhalation and/or exhalation valve(s). The mask consists entirely or substantially of ilter material. · Should have 2 elastic straps (may be adjustable) that go around the head and neck · Shall be offer ed fo r sale packaged in such a way that they are protected against mechanical damage and contamination before use. · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485.

BS EN 149:2001+A1:2009 Respiratory protective devices — Filtering half masks to protect against particles — Requirements, testing, marking. OR Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425

Design and Performance · Mask covers the nose and mouth and the chin and has one or more replaceable P3 particle ilters. · Should have adjustable straps that go around the head and neck. · Shall be offered for sale packaged in such a way that they are protected against mechanical damage and contamination before use. · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485. · Note: P3 ilters are separate consumable and must be compatible with the model of respirator. This will usually be stated on the information provided with the mask/ ilter. · Marking and Packaging Requirements: as speci ied in BS EN 140:2001 and BS EN 143:2000 · Manufacturer’s Instructions and Information to be provided: as speci ied in BS EN 140:2001 and BS EN 143:2000

BS EN 140:1999 Respiratory protective devices – Half masks and quarters masks Requirements, testing, marking. BS EN 143:2000 Respiratory protective devices – Particle ilters - Requirements, testing, marking. OR Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425


Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Powered Respirators with hoods/helmets (aka Powered air purifying Respirators; PAPR)

Eye Protection

Isolation Gowns (non- sterile/surgical

PPE Essential Technical Requirements for authorisation applications to the Health and Safety Executive Powered Respirator Design and Performance with hoods/helmet – · Rechargeable battery powered with P3 particle ilters. respirator with a hood or helmet and one or more replaceable P3 particle ilters. · Shall be offered for sale packaged in such a way that they are protected against mechanical damage and contamination before use. · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485. · Note: P3 ilters are separate consumable and must be compatible with the model of respirator. This will usually be stated on the information provided with the mask/ ilter. · Marking and Packaging Requirements: as speci ied in BS EN 12941 · Manufacturer’s Instructions and Information to be provided: as speci ied in BS EN 12941 Face shield or visor Design and Performance · A face shield or visor is a device worn on the head for covering the whole of the face and providing a barrier to liquid splashes. · All face shields/visors must comply with the following: Eye shields/safety · Must be optically clear. glasses/goggles · Should be resistant to fogging. · Adjustable head band · Must be resistant to droplets and splashes. · Eye Shields/safety glasses are devices for protecting the eyes against exposure to liquid droplets. All s afety glasses must comply with the following: · Must be optically clear. Isolation gown - Single · Design and Performance use/ disposable · Should be made of well-established materials for this product area · The length must be mid-calf · Should have bonded seams unless not required for propo sed non -surgical use · Should have resistance to penetration by liquids · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485 · High Performance gowns

Type

Relevant standards for design and performance BS EN 12941 Respiratory protective devices - Powered iltering devices incorporating a looseitting respiratory interface Requirements, testing, marking. OR Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425

BS EN 166:2002 Personal eye protection OR Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425

BS EN 14605:2005+A1: 2009 (Type 4 – spray tight) OR BS EN 13034:2005 +A1:2009– (Type 6 suits - protection against liquid chemicals) and EN14126 (barrier to infective agents = B) Including ISO 16604 minimum level 2


PPE Essential Technical Requirements for authorisation applications to the Health and Safety Executive · Protective performance against liquid hazards · Type PB [4]-B · Standard Performance gowns · For use in areas of light splashing and aerosols · Limited protective performance against liquid hazards · Type PB [6]-B · Labelling and packaging information: · Must state the type of gown. · Must address the level of luid resistance of the gown. · Must include warnings on its use in certain areas ( lammability) where appropriate

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Type

Isolation Gowns (non- sterile/surgical

Isolation gown - Single use/ disposable

Coveralls

Cat III Type 5B/6B Coverall

Design and Performance · Should be made of well-established materials for this product area. · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485. · Labelling and packaging information: · Must state the type of coverall. · Must include warnings on its use in certain areas ( lammability) where appropriate.

BS EN 13034:2005 +A1:2009– (Type 6 suits - protection against liquid chemicals) EN14126 (barrier to infective agents = B) Technical Speci ication Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425

Cat III Type 4B Coverall

Design and Performance · Should be made of well-established materials for this product area · Manufacturer must have quality management system in place such as evidence of compliance to ISO 9001 or BS EN 13485. · Labelling and packaging information: · Must state the type of coverall · Must include warnings on its use in certain areas ( lammability) where appropriate.

BS EN 14605:2005+A1: 2009 (Type 4 – spray tight) EN14126 (barrier to infective agents = B) Technical Speci ication Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425

Relevant standards for design and performance BS EN 14605:2005+A1: 2009 (Type 4 – spray tight) OR BS EN 13034:2005 +A1:2009– (Type 6 suits - protection against liquid chemicals) and EN14126 (barrier to infective agents = B) Including ISO 16604 minimum level 2 Technical Speci ication Technical Speci ication to satisfy the requirements of Annex II of PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425


i. The COVID-19 is transmitted via small airborne droplets emitted by infected people when sneezing, coughing or talking. Therefore, a wide array of protective products designed to ensure protection against airborne particles or small droplets are used such as: face masks, gloves, coveralls, etc. ii. Most of these products are among the so-called 'harmonized products' for which there is speci ic EU product legislation in place. A majority of the products used in the context of the current health crisis, including FFP-type masks, are considered as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and hence fall under the scope of Regulation (EU) 2016/425. iii. Most of these products are among the so-called 'harmonized products' for which there is speci ic EU product legislation in place. A majority of the products used in the context of the current health crisis, including FFP-type masks, are considered as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and hence fall under the scope of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 iv. Other products such as medical gloves, surgical masks, intensive care and other medical equipment are products falling within the scope of the EU legal framework on medical devices – Council Directive 93/42/EEC, to be replaced by Regulation (EU) 2017/745 as from 26 May 2020. v. Both the PPE Regulation and the Directive on Medical Devices lay down essential requirements on health, safety and performance of the products they cover. However, both EU legal frameworks are technologically neutral and do not prescribe any speci ic mandatory technical solutions for the design of the products. Therefore, a number of technical solutions may be used by manufacturers to meet these essential requirements. vi. Both the PPE Regulation and the Directive on Medical Devices offer the possibility for manufacturers to rely on speci ic technical solutions, which are detailed in harmonized standards or parts thereof. The references of these harmonized standards have been published in the Of icial Journal of the European Union. Where a manufacturer chooses to adopt such a technical solution, the product is presumed to be in conformity with the applicable essential health, safety and performance requirements.

6 Perspectives of PPEs as required for USA and other Markets 6.1 Personal protective equipment, or PPE, is designed to provide protection from serious injuries or illnesses resulting from contact with chemical, radiological, physical, electrical, mechanical, or other hazards. Careful selection and use of adequate PPE should protect individuals involved in chemical emergencies from hazards effecting the respiratory system, skin, eyes, face, hands, feet, head, body, and hearing. No single combination of protective equipment and clothing is capable of protecting against all hazards. Thus, PPE should be used in conjunction with other protective methods, including exposure control procedures and equipment. 6.2 The onsite incident commander will de ine the PPE ensemble required based on the conditions at the scene. For irst receivers and hospitals, PPE selection is based on the institution's chemical emergency procedures. Guidance used for selecting appropriate PPE for chemical emergencies is available. For First Responder OSHA/NIOSH Interim Guidance: Chemical - Biological Radiological - Nuclear (CBRN) Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Selection Matrix for Emergency Responders (OSHA, NIOSH, April 2005). For Hospital Providers - OSHA Best Practices for Hospital-Based First Receivers of Victims from Mass Casualty Incidents Involving the Release of Hazardous Substances (PDF 1.93 MB) (OSHA, January 2005). 6.3 Levels of PPE as per US Market Personal protective equipment as per US market is divided into four categories based on the degree of protection afforded. v Level A protection should be worn when the highest level of respiratory, skin, eye and mucous membrane pro tection is needed. A typical Level A ensemble includes: l

l

Fully encapsulating chemical protective suit.

l

Gloves, inner, chemical resistant.

l

Gloves, outer, chemical resistant.

l

vii. Technical speci ications based on legislation are generic in nature and do not specify dimension, raw material etc.

Positive pressure (pressure demand), self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) (NIOSH approved), or positive-pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA.

Boots, chemical resistant, steel toe and shank; (depending on suit boot construction, worn over or under suit boot.)

v Level B protection should be selected when the highest level of respiratory protection is needed, but a lesser level of skin and eye protection is needed. Level B


protection is the minimum level recommended on initial site entries until the hazards have been further identi ied and de ined by monitoring, sampling, and other reliable methods of analysis, and equipment corresponding with those indings utilized. A typical Level B ensemble includes: ü Positive-pressure (pressure-demand), selfcontained breathing apparatus (NIOSH approved), or positive-pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA. ü Chemical resistant clothing (overalls and longsleeved jacket, coveralls, hooded two-piece chemical splash suit, disposable chemical resistant coveralls.) ü Gloves, outer, chemical resistant. ü Gloves, inner, chemical resistant. ü Boots, outer, chemical resistant, steel toe and shank. v Level C protection should be selected when the type of airborne substance is known, concentration measured, criteria for using air-purifying respirators met, and skin and eye exposure is unlikely. Periodic monitoring of the air must be performed. A typical Level C ensemble includes: ü Full-face or half-mask, air-purifying respirator (NIOSH approved). ü Chemical resistant clothing (one-piece coverall, hooded two piece chemical splash suit, chemical resistant hood and apron, disposable chemical resistant coveralls.) ü Gloves, outer, chemical resistant.

the hazards of lying fragments, hot sparks, and chemical splashes. NIOSH Eye Safety Guidance (CDC/NIOSH) Ø Skin Skin protection should be used when responders may be exposed to harmful substances. NIOSH Protective Clothing & Ensembles Guidance (CDC/NIOSH) Ø Noise Earplugs or earmuffs can help prevent damage to hearing. Exposure to high noise levels can cause irreversible hearing loss or impairment as well as physical and psychological stress. ü NIOSH Noise and Hearing Loss Prevention Guidance (CDC/NIOSH) 6.5 Elements of a PPE Management Program PPE use requires the implementation of a management program. Some elements of an effective program include: Ÿ

Respirator Use Certi ication and Fit Testing

Ÿ

OSHA respirator it testing (OSHA)

Ÿ

Training - OSHA Training Information (OSHA)

Ÿ

Proper donning of PPE

Ÿ

Limitations of PPE

Ÿ

Maintenance and Care of PPE

Ÿ

Useful life of PPE, disposal

6.6 Limitations of PPE

ü Gloves, inner, chemical resistant.

Decisions about PPE use must consider its limitations.

ü Boots, steel toe and shank, chemical resistant.

· Safety Hazards

v Level D protection is primarily a work uniform and is used for nuisance contamination only. It requires only coveralls and safety shoes/boots. Other PPE is based upon the situation (types of gloves, etc.). It should not be worn on any site where respiratory or skin hazards exist.

ü Restricted movement due to weight ü Restricted vision due to visual ield limitations ü Dif iculty communicating due to face protection · Physiological/Psychological stressors ü Psychological stress resulting from con ining nature of full suits

6.4 Types of Envisaged Protection There are many types of protective equipment, each with speci ic applications and use requirements. Information on common elements of the PPE ensemble include: Ø Respiratory Responders should use appropriate respirators to protect against adverse health effects caused by breathing contaminated air.

ü Heat stress and risk of dehydration ü and risk of dehydration ü The highest levels of PPE generally cannot be worn continuously for more than 30 minutes ·

ü Need for a management program that ensures effective use of PPE

NIOSH Respirators Guidance (CDC/NIOSH) Ø Eye & Face Eye and face protection should protect responders from

Management Requirements

§

Facial hair interferes with proper it of masks


Improper use, penetration/tears are potentially hazardous

§

6.7 Medical Management Because of the psychological and physiological stresses involved, PPE use requires medical surveillance and clearance.

Ÿ

Record recent medical history

Ÿ

Compare to individual's baseline information per institution policy

Ÿ

Report any concerns to physician

Ÿ

Place identi ication tape with name and role on the back of the responder

Ÿ

Complete safety checks by a second person

Ÿ

Record the starting time PPE is put on

v OSHA Medical Clearance Questionnaire (OSHA) v Levels of PPE Clearance

v

Ÿ

Level 1 - Escape devices only

Ÿ

Level 2 - Air purifying only (with dermal protection)

Screening- occupational and medical history, vital signs including (BP), EKG, PE of cardio/pulmonary systems, spirometry, hearing and vision screening Ÿ

Level 3 - Full spectrum of PPE

v Screening - Level 2 evaluation plus Exercise tolerance test (dependent upon and CV evaluation) v Medical Monitoring for use scenarios v Pre-entry Ÿ

Record weight, vital signs

ü During the event Monitor staff time in PPE Have second team preparing to relieve irst team in PPE ü Post-entry Ÿ Decontamination Ÿ Record amount of time in PPE (general guideline is 30 minutes) Ÿ Record weight, vital signs Ÿ Ensure hydration 6.8 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Classi ication Systems PPEs are also classi ieds based on the area of users and as detailed in Table 4 and Table 5.

Table 4: Classi ication of PPEs OSHA/EPA Classi ication Protection provided

Indications

Level A

Level B

Level C

Highest level of skin, eye, respiratory protection

Highest level of respiratory protection; lower level of skin protection.

Lower level of respiratory and skin protection. Adequate for radiation event response where other hazards have been determined not to be present.

Lowest level of respiratory and skin protection.

Identi ied or suspected hazards requiring maximal skin, eye, and respiratory protection.

Identi ied or suspected hazards requiring maximal respiratory protection.

Hazards have been identi ied.

Atmosphere contains no known hazards

Hazards will not be absorbed by or adversely affect exposed skin.

No or very low potential for unexpected respiratory or skin contact with environmental hazards.

Working in con ined areas where hazards have not been fully characterized.

Working in atmospheres containing less than 19.5% oxygen. Lower level skin hazard may be present.

All criteria for using an air purifying respirator are met (i.e., concentrations of all airborne contaminants are known, appropriate ilters are available, oxygen levels are suf icient).

Level D


OSHA/EPA Classi ication Who should wear

Level A First responders: When identi ied or potential risk of biological, liquid or vapour chemical hazard exposure exists.

Level B

Level C

First responders: When entering the most heavily contaminated radiation zones to rescue victims or protect valuable property necessary for public welfare

First responders: and irst receivers When caring for patients/victims likely to be contaminated with radiological material

Level D First receivers: When working in postdecontamination areas should wear Standard Precautions PPE (per protocol) for infection control purposes

6.9 Risk coverage vs Personal Protective Equipment (Environmental Protection Agency-EPA)

for using air purifying respirators is met. Typical Level C equipment includes:

Vapours, gases, and particulates from hazardous substance response activities place response personnel at risk. For this reason, response personnel must wear appropriate personal protective clothing and equipment whenever they are near the site. The more that is known about the hazards at a release site, the easier it becomes to select personal protective equipment. There are four levels of personal protective equipment.

ü full-face air purifying respirators;

Level A protection is required when the greatest potential for exposure to hazards exists, and when the greatest level of skin, respiratory, and eye protection is required. Examples of Level A clothing and equipment include: ü

positive pressure, full face-piece self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) or positive pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA;

ü

totally encapsulated chemical- and vapourprotective suit;

ü

inner and outer chemical-resistant gloves; and

ü

disposable protective suit, gloves, and boots.

Level B protection is required under circumstances requiring the highest level of respiratory protection, with lesser level of skin protection. At most abandoned outdoor hazardous waste sites, ambient atmospheric vapours or gas levels have not approached suf iciently high concentrations to warrant level A protection. Examples of Level B protection include: ü positive pressure, full face-piece self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) or positive pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA; ü inner and outer chemical-resistant gloves; ü face shield; ü hooded chemical resistant clothing; ü coveralls; and outer chemical-resistant boots. Level C protection is required when the concentration and type of airborne substances is known and the criteria

ü inner and outer chemical-resistant gloves; ü hard hat; ü escape mask; and ü disposable chemical-resistant outer boots. Level D protection is the minimum protection required. Level D protection may be suf icient when no contaminants are present or work operations preclude splashes, immersion, or the potential for unexpected inhalation or contact with hazardous levels of chemicals. Appropriate Level D protective equipment may include: ü

gloves;

ü

coveralls;

ü

safety glasses;

ü

face shield; and

ü

chemical-resistant, steel-toe boots or shoes

While these are general guidelines for typical equipment to be used in certain circumstances, other combinations of protective equipment may be more appropriate, depending upon speci ic site characteristics. 6.10 Personal Protective Equipment (Occupational Safety and Health Standards- OSHA) 6.10.1 As per the standard, PPE must be selected which will protect employees from the speci ic hazards which they are likely to encounter during their work on-site. Selection of the appropriate PPE is a complex process which should take into consideration a variety of factors. Key factors involved in this process are identi ication of the hazards, or suspected hazards; their routes of potential hazard to employees (inhalation, skin absorption, ingestion, and eye or skin contact); and the performance of the PPE materials (and seams) in providing a barrier to these hazards. The amount of protection provided by PPE is material-hazard speci ic. That is, protective equipment materials will protect well against some hazardous substances and poorly, or not at


all, against others. In many instances, protective equipment materials cannot be found which will provide continuous protection from the particular hazardous substance. In these cases, the breakthrough time of the protective material should exceed the work durations (end of sentence deleted - FR 14074, Apr 13. 1990). 6.10.2 Other factors in this selection process to be considered are matching the PPE to the employee's work requirements and task-speci ic conditions. The durability of PPE materials, such as tear strength and seam strength, should be considered in relation to the employee's tasks. The effects of PPE in relation to heat stress and task duration are a factor in selecting and using PPE. In some cases, layers of PPE may be necessary to provide suf icient protection, or to protect expensive PPE inner garments, suits or equipment. 6.10.3 The more that is known about the hazards at the site, the easier the job of PPE selection becomes. As more information about the hazards and conditions at the site becomes available, the site supervisor can make decisions to up-grade or down-grade the level of PPE protection to match the tasks at hand. 6.11 PPE Distribution in different categories Personal protective equipment is divided into four categories based on the degree of protection afforded against each of the situation. The selection of each is done accordingly. v Level A should be selected when the greatest level of skin, respiratory, and eye protection is required. The following types of PPEs constitute Level A equipment; it may be used as appropriate; 1. Positive pressure, full face-piece self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA), or positive pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA, approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH).

1. Positive pressure, full-face piece self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA), or positive pressure supplied air respirator with escape SCBA (NIOSH approved). 2. Hooded chemical-resistant clothing (overalls and long-sleeved jacket; coveralls; one or two-piece chemical-splash suit; disposable chemical-resistant overalls). 3. Coveralls 4. Gloves, outer, chemical-resistant. 5. Gloves, inner, chemical-resistant. 6. Boots, outer, chemical-resistant steel toe and shank. 7. Boot-covers, outer, chemical-resistant (disposable) 8. Hard hat 9. [Reserved] 10. Face shield v Level C - The concentration(s) and type(s) of airborne substance(s) is known and the criteria for using air purifying respirators are met. The following constitute Level C equipment; it may be used as appropriate. 1. Full-face or half-mask, air purifying respirators (NIOSH approved). 2. Hooded chemical-resistant clothing (overalls; twopiece chemical-splash suit; disposable chemicalresistant overalls). 3. Coveralls 4. Gloves, outer, chemical-resistant. 5. Gloves, inner, chemical-resistant. 6. Boots (outer), chemical-resistant steel toe and shank 7. Boot-covers, outer, chemical-resistant (disposable) 8. Hard hat 9. Escape mask 10. Face shield

4. Long underwear

v Level D - A work uniform affording minimal protection: used for nuisance contamination only. The following constitute Level D equipment; it may be used as appropriate:

5. Gloves, outer, chemical-resistant.

1. Coveralls.

6. Gloves, inner, chemical-resistant.

2. Gloves

7. Boots, chemical-resistant, steel toe and shank.

3. Boots/shoes, chemical-resistant steel toe and shank.

8. Hard hat (under suit)

4. Boots, outer, chemical-resistant (disposable)

2. Totally-encapsulating chemical-protective suit. 3. Coveralls

9. Disposable protective suit, gloves and boots (depending on suit construction, may be worn over totally-encapsulating suit). v Level B - The highest level of respiratory protection is necessary but a lesser level of skin protection is needed. The following constitute Level B equipment; it may be used as appropriate.

5. Safety glasses or chemical splash goggles 6. Hard hat 7. Escape mask 8. Face shield


6.12 The types of hazards for which levels A, B, C, and D protection are appropriate · Level A - Level A protection should be used when: 1. The hazardous substance has been identi ied and requires the highest level of protection for skin, eyes, and the respiratory system based on either the measured (or potential for) high concentration of atmospheric vapours, gases, or particulates; or the site operations and work functions involve a high potential for splash, immersion, or exposure to unexpected vapours, gases, or particulates of materials that are harmful to skin or capable of being absorbed through the skin, 2. Substances with a high degree of hazard to the skin are known or suspected to be present, and skin contact is possible; or 3. Operations must be conducted in con ined, poorly ventilated areas, and the absence of conditions requiring Level A have not yet been determined. · Level B protection should be used when: 1. The type and atmospheric concentration of substances have been identi ied and require a high level of respiratory protection, but less skin protection. 2. The atmosphere contains less than 19.5 percent oxygen; or 3. The presence of incompletely identi ied vapours or gases is indicated by a direct-reading organic vapour detection instrument, but vapours and gases are not suspected of containing high levels of chemicals harmful to skin or capable of being absorbed through the skin. N o t e : T h i s i nvo lve s a t m o s p h e r e s w i t h I D L H concentrations of speci ic substances that present severe inhalation hazards and that do not represent a severe skin hazard; or that do not meet the criteria for use of airpurifying respirators. · Level C protection should be used when: 1. The atmospheric contaminants, liquid splashes, or other direct contact will not adversely affect or be absorbed through any exposed skin; 2. The types of air contaminants have been identi ied, concentrations measured, and an air-purifying respirator is available that can remove the contaminants; and 3. All criteria for the use of air-purifying respirators are met. · Level D protection should be used when: 1. The atmosphere contains no known hazard; and

2. Work functions preclude splashes, immersion, or the potential for unexpected inhalation of or contact with hazardous levels of any chemicals. Note: As stated before, combinations of personal protective equipment other than those described for Levels A, B, C, and D protection may be more appropriate and may be used to provide the proper level of protection. 6.13 As an aid in selecting suitable chemical protective clothing, it should be noted that the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has developed standards on chemical protective clothing. The standards that have been adopted include: NFPA 1991 - Standard on Vapour-Protective Suits for Hazardous Chemical Emergencies (EPA Level A Protective Clothing) NFPA 1992 - Standard on Liquid Splash-Protective Suits for Hazardous Chemical Emergencies (EPA Level B Protective Clothing) NFPA 1993 - Standard on Liquid Splash-Protective Suits for Non-emergency, Non- lammable Hazardous Chemical Situations (EPA Level B Protective Clothing). These standards apply documentation and performance requirements to the manufacture of chemical protective suits. Chemical protective suits meeting these requirements are labelled as compliant with the appropriate standard. It is recommended that chemical protective suits that meet these standards be used. Standard precautions for PPE and procedures used to prevent transmission of infections within healthcare settings provides adequate protection against low levels of radiological contamination that may be found in postdecontamination areas of the hospital (e.g., emergency department and surgical suites). No formal PPE is required to be worn when delivering care to persons with high dose radiation exposure although reverse isolation procedures will need to be observed as neutropenia becomes prominent. 6.14 Levels of Personal Protective Equipment: Advantages and Disadvantages It may be noted that there are grazing features of different PPEs falling into different categories and call for certain advantages and disadvantages. These are given in Table 5. The data is collected from Source: Hick JL, Han ling D, Burstein JL, Markham J, Macintyre AG, Barbera JA. Protective equipment for health care facility decontamination personnel: regulations, risks, and recommendations. Ann Emerg Med. 2003 Sep;42(3):370-80. [PubMed Citation].


Table 5: Levels of Personal Protective Equipment: Advantages and Disadvantages Level

Description

Advantages

Disadvantages

A

Completely encapsulated suit and self-contained breathing apparatus

Highest level of protection available for both contact and inhaled threats

Expense and training requirements restrict use to hazardous materials response teams; lack of mobility; heat and other physical stresses; limited air supply

B

Encapsulating suit or junction seams sealed, supplied air respirator or self-contained breathing apparatus

High level of protection adequate for unknown environment entry, supplied air ensemble with increased mobility and dexterity

Dependence on airline or limited air supply; heat and physical stresses; expense and training signi icant; it testing required

C

Splash suit and airpurifying respirator

Signi icantly increased mobility, decreased physical stress, extended operation time with high levels of protection against certain agent; no it testing required for hood type

Not adequate for some high-concentration environments or less than atmospheric oxygen environments or high levels of splash contamination; expense and training moderate

D

Work clothes, including standard precautions for health care workers (eg, gloves, splash protection)

Increased mobility, decreased physical stresses, extended operation time

Offers no protection against chemical or other agents; expense and training minimal

Further National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has listed the salient features of different categories of PPAs as given at Table 6. Table 6: Salient features of PPEs in regard to NFPA Standards Class 1

Class 2

Class 3

Class 4

OSHA/EPA Level A PPE Equivalent

OSHA/EPA Level B PPE Equivalent

OSHA/EPA Level C PPE Equivalent

OSHA/EPA Level D PPE Equivalent

NFPA 1991 (2005 ed.) "Class 1" PPE ensemble worn with NIOSH CBRN SCBA

NFPA 1994 (2007 ed.) "Class 2" PPE ensemble worn with NIOSH CBRN SCBA OR NFPA 1971 (2007 ed.) "CBRN option" PPE ensemble worn with NIOSH CBRN SCBA

NFPA 1994 (2007 ed.) "Class 3" PPE ensemble worn with NIOSH CBRN APR/PAPR OR NFPA 1994 (2007 ed.) "Class 4" PPE ensemble worn with NIOSH CBRN APR/PAPR OR NFPA 1951 (2007 ed.) "Technical Rescue Ensemble" worn with NIOSH CBRN APR/PAPR

NFPA 1994 (2007 ed.) "Class

7

Essential Technical Speci ications of PPEs in US and other Markets 7.1 The Food and Drug Administration (FDA or Agency) plays a critical role in protecting the United States from threats including emerging infectious diseases, including the Coronavirus Disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic. FDA is committed to

providing timely guidance to support response efforts to this pandemic. FDA is issuing this guidance to provide a policy to help expand the availability of ventilators as well as other respiratory devices and their accessories during this pandemic.


7.2 This policy is intended to remain in effect only for the duration of the public health emergency related to COVID-19 declared by the Department of Health and Human Services (HHS), including any renewals made by the Secretary in accordance with section 319(a)(2) of the PHS Act. 7.3 It is noted that the speci ications of different PPEs by and large are generic and conform to the risk management if different levels. In the light of the same, following speci ications are described as per US procurement policy, the international funding

Parameter/Type of Mask Labelling Information on respirator Nasal splints Mask Harness

· ·

Fit Filter performance – (must be ≥ X% ef icient) Test agent

and development organizations (UNDP). Likewise, tender speci ications provided by a Canadian Public Procurement program are also enlisted. These data, it is considered to facilitate to arrive at speci ic features of PPEs as required by the US Market. 7.4 Technical Speci ications of PPEs as per Canadian/USA and others I. Disposable N95 masks Speci ications for iltering face pieces (NIOSH N95 and alternatives)

Table 7: NIOSH N95 speci ication Surgical N95 NIOSH under 42 CFR Part 84 and Commercial N95 NIOSH under FDA/NIOSH MOU 225-18-006 42 CFR Part 84 (1) Manufacturer’s Name; (2) TC-84A-####; (3) NIOSH; (4) Lot Number; (5) Filter designation (i.e. N95) Additional information 1 Must be adjustable and provide an airtight seal.

Head straps are typical, Earloops are extremely uncommon Ear-loops are considered a novel head harness and must undergo additional NIOSH testing 2.2kg per strap Half-mask face pieces and full-face pieces shall be designed and constructed to it persons with various facial shapes and sizes, either: (1) By providing more than one face piece size; or (2) By provid ing one face piece size which will it varying facial shapes and sizes. ≥ 95% Sodium Chloride (NaCl) Particles

≥ 95% Sodium Chloride(NaCl) Particles

Flow rate

85 L/min

85 L/min

Inhalation Resistance

≤ 343 Pa

≤ 343 Pa

Flow rate

85 L/min

85 L/min

Exhalation Resistance

≤ 245 Pa

≤ 245 Pa

Flow rate

85 L/min

85 L/min

Synthetic Blood Penetration

Surface Wetting Resistance Microorganism Index (Bioburden) Biological Filtration Ef icency TIL (total inward leakage) Exhalation valve leakage requirement Force applied CO2 clearance

· 2ml of synthetic blood spayed on mask at 10.7kPa, 16.0kPa and 21.3kPa, no penetration at an acceptable quality limit of 4.0% · Tested on a PASS/FAIL basis at a speci ied velocity/pressure · ASTM F1862

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

≥ 95%

N/A

N/A

N/A

-

Leak rate 30 mL/min

-

-245 Pa

N/A

N/A

1 https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npptl/topics/respirators/disp_part/respsource1quest2.html


Table 8: Mask KN95 speci ications

Parameters/Type of Mask Labelling Information on · respirator ·

Number and year of publication of standard Type and grade of ilter elements (i.e. KN95)

Nasal splints

Must be adjustable

Mask Harness

· ·

Medical KN95 (GB 19083-2010)

Commercial KN95 (GB2626-2006)

N/A

No less than 10 Newton (1kg) per strap Ear-loops are allowed The disposable facepiece structure shall ensure the tight itting with face, and be free from deformation during the service life.

The mask shall be designed as to provide a good it and overall it factor of the mask shall not be less than 100

Fit Filter performance – (must be ≥ X% ef icient)

≥ 95%

≥ 95%

Test agent

Sodium Chloride (NaCl) Particles

Sodium Chloride (NaCl) Particles

Flow rate

85 L/min

85 L/min

Inhalation Resistance

≤ 343.2 Pa

≤ 350 Pa

Flow rate

85 L/min

85 L/min

Exhalation Resistance

N/A

≤ 250 Pa

Flow rate

N/A

85 L/min

Synthetic Blood Penetration Surface Wetting Resistance · Microorganism Index (Bioburden)

· · · ·

Biological Filtration Ef iciency

2ml of synthetic blood spayed on mask at 10.7kPa and no penetration shall occur on inner side of mask Outside surface spray rating shall not be less than speci ied in Grade 3 of GB/T47-45-1997 Total bacteria count ≤200 CFU/g Total fungus colony count colony count CFU/g ≤100 Coliform bacteria: Not Detectable Pseudomonas areginosa: Not Detectable Staphylococcus aureus: Not Detectable Hemolytic streptococcus: Not Detectable N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A ·

TIL of at least 46 actions of 50 actions in all, in the case of TIL of each action as the evaluation basis (namely 10 testees × 5 actions) KN95 <11% Total TIL of at least 8 testees of 10 testees in all, in the case of total TIL of each testee as the evaluation basis KN95 <8%

TIL (total inward leakage)

N/A

Exhalation valve leakage requirement

-

Force applied

-

-1180 Pa

CO2 clearance

N/A

≤ 1%

·

Depressurization to 0 Pa ≥ 20 sec


Table 9: Other international Speci ications Parameters/Type of Mask

Labelling Information on respirator

CE FFP2 (EN149 2001) • Manufacturer logo • CE Labelling Number and year of publication of standard • Filter designation (i.e. FFP1, FFP2 or FFP3)

Filter performance – (must be ≥ X% ef icient)

P2 (AS/NZ 1716:2012) • Number and year of publication of standard • Filter designation (i.e. P2)

Korea 1st DS (Japan JMHLWClass (KMOEL Noti ication 214, 2018) – 2017-64) • Number and year of publication of • Number and year of standard publication of standard • Filter • Filter designation (i.e. DS) designation (i.e. Korea 1st Class)

≥ 94%

≥ 94%

≥ 94%

≥ 95%

Test agent

NaCl and paraf in oil

NaCl

NaCl and paraf in oil

NaCl

Flow rate

95 L/min

95 L/min

95 L/min

85 L/min

Total inward leakage (TIL) 2 - tested on human subjects each performing exercises

≤ 8% leakage (arithmetic mean)

≤ 8% leakage (individual and arithmetic mean)

≤ 8% leakage (arithmetic mean)

Inward Leakage measured and included in User Instructions

Inhalation resistance – max pressure drop

≤ 70 Pa (at 30 L/min) ≤ 240 Pa (at 95 L/min) ≤ 500 Pa (clogging)

≤ 70 Pa (at 30 L/min) ≤ 240 Pa (at 95 L/min)

≤ 70 Pa (at 30 L/min) ≤ 240 Pa (at 95 L/min)

≤ 70 Pa (w/valve) ≤ 50 Pa (no valve)

Varied – see above

Varied – see above

Varied – see above

Flow rate

40 L/min

Exhalation resistance – max pressure-drop

≤ 300 Pa

≤ 120 Pa

≤ 300 Pa

≤ 70 Pa (w/valve) ≤ 50 Pa (no valve)

Flow rate

160 L/min

85 L/min

160 L/min

40 L/min Depressurization to 0 Pa ≥ 15 sec

Exhalation valve leakage requirement

N/A

Leak rate ≤ 30 mL/min

Visual inspection after 300 L/min for 30 sec

Force applied

N/A

-250 Pa

N/A

-1,470 Pa

CO2 clearance requirement

≤ 1%

≤ 1%

≤ 1%

≤ 1%

2 Japan JMHLW-Noti ication 214 requires an Inward Leakage test rather than a TIL test ii. Disposable surgical masks Table 10: Speci ications for iltering face pieces (e.g. Surgical, Procedural, Medical Mask) Typical Canada/US EN 14683 ASTM F2100 Test Parameter Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 Type IIR

Bacterial Filtration Ef iciency, % Differential Pressure mm 2) H2O/cm2 (Pa/cm Submicron particulate iltration ef iciency at 0.1 micron, % Splash Resistance/Synthetic Blood Resistance, mmHg Flame Spread

≥95 <4.0 <39.2

≥98 <5.0 <49.0

≥98 <5.0 <49.0

≥95

≥98

≥98

80

120

160

Class 1

Class 1

Class 1

≥98 <5.0 Not Required 120 (16.0kPa) N/A


Table 11: Vendors/manufacturers of “Surgical masks with Visors” should comply to the following speci ications

Parameters Hazard Corrected Safety Features

Surgical Mask Prevention of large droplet aerosols and splashes coming into contact with the mucous membranes of the mouth and nose

Woven inner layer

Visors Prevention of large droplet aerosols and splashes coming into contact with the mucous membranes of the eyes Shield entire face and extends to both sides of face Easily removable in case of accidents Polycarbonate

Shingle pleat

Clear

BFE iltration ≥95% High level of protection against infection

Material Design Reusable

No

Fluid Resistant Standard

Yes Meets ASTM F2100 or EN 14683 Type IIR

Medical Device Classi ication

Yes Meets CSA Z94.3 Yes Level: 1

iii. Gowns and coveralls

Vendors/manufacturers should be ready, upon request, to specify: · the level or class that the gowns or coverall are classi ied to · the methods of evaluation used to classify the products · the level of risk (Low Risk and High Risk) as identi ied below · Comparative technical speci ications accepted by Canadian/USA is given in Table 12. Table 12: Comparative Technical Speci ications for surgical and medical gowns, and coveralls

North American Standards

Risk Level

CSA Z314 (Canada) and ANSI PB70 (USA) Classi ication

Low Risk

Level 1 Minimal water resistance (some resistance to water spray)

Level 2 Low water resistance (resistant to water spray and some resistance to water penetration under constant contact with increasing pressure)

Standard / Testing AATCC 42 Water penetration ≤ 4.5 g AATCC 127 Hydrostatic pressure N/A

AATCC 42 Water penetration ≤ 1.0 g AATCC 127 Hydrostatic pressure ≥ 20cm water column

European Equivalencies EN 13795, for Gowns Classi ication

Standard Performance

EN 14126, for Coveralls

Standard / Classi ic Testing ation EN 20811 – Class 1 Hydrostatic pressure • Less critical areas Class 2 ≥ 10cm • Critical areas ≥ 20cm Class 3

Class 4

Standard / Testing

ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 0 kPa ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 1.75 kPa ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 3.5 kPa ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 7 kPa


North American Standards

Risk Level

CSA Z314 (Canada) and ANSI PB70 (USA)

EN 13795, for Gowns

Standard / Testing

Classi ication

Level 3 Moderate water resistance (resist ant to water spray and some resistance to water penetration under constant contact with increasing pressure)

AATCC 42 Water penetration ≤ 1.0 g AATCC 127 Hydrostatic pressure ≥ 50cm water column

High Performance

Level 4 Blood and viral penetration resistance (2 psi)

ASTM F1670 (Blood) & F1671 (Viral): No penetration at 2 psi (13.8 kPa)

Classi ication High Risk

European Equivalencies

8 Concluding Remarks 8.1 Personal protective Equipment (PPE) Market is growing in a signi icant rate. COVID 19 pandemic has necessitated the rapid growth of manufacture and supply of medical industry related PPEs to the global community to contain with the viral infection. It is noted that India in the beginning of January 2020, imported a large quantity of PPEs from China due to insuf icient domestic production. It is noteworthy that in a span of three to four months, our industry geared up to meet the domestic demand and reached second position in the manufacture and supply of PPEs next only to China. This has been possible due to change in the product mix made by Indian Apparel Industry in different parts of India. India has transformed from the status of importer of PPEs to Exporter of PPEs in a short time interval of three to four months. 8.2 It may be pointed out that the PPEs are those items which have to meet the stringent performance parameters apart from eco-friendly and hygienic requirements. Like India, EU and USA have established legal and technical requirements. Due to rapid infection rate owing to COVID 19 menace, several measures have

Standard / Testing

EN 20811 – Hydrostatic pressure • Less critical areas ≥ 10cm • Critical areas ≥ 20cm

EN 14126, for Coveralls Classi ic Standard / Testing ation Class 5 ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 14 kPa

Class 6

ISO 16603 (Blood) & 16604 (Viral): No penetration at 20 kPa

been taken by these governments as a policy without compromising on the quality of the PPEs supply and hence gap in supply of these items domestically has been bridged and now geared up for export of the PPEs to needy nations. 8.3 The present article has addressed the technical and associated export requirements to some of these countries especially EU and USA market. The aspects cover legal, technical and procedural requirements for export of PPEs based on textile material namely gowns, coverall and masks. With current knowledge of understanding the technology, market, harmonized standards and fast track procurement of these items, the subject has been dealt to facilitate the business developed by expanding trading of them to EU and USA. 8.4 Due to COVID 19 pandemic, there are certain changes made both by EU and USA to expedite the import of these PPEs especially from India as the political issues with China in terms of EU and USA are not so much favourable. Therefore, it is opined that the business opportunities for exporting of PPEs is quite promising and worth taking up on priority to meet the challenges.

References 1. CSMS message #42124872: https://content.govdelivery.com/bulletins/gd/USDHSCBP282c648?wgt_ref=USDHSCBP_WIDGET_2%3Futm_source%3Dsearch.usa.gov&utm_medium=search.usa.gov&utm _term=unde ined&utm_content=unde ined&utm_campaign=%28not+set%29&gclid=unde ined&dclid=unde ined &GAID=102834089.1540533732


2. CSMS message #42168200: https://content.govdelivery.com/accounts/USDHSCBP/bulletins/2836f88 3. FDA supplemental guide (v2.5.1): https://www.cbp.gov/sites/default/ iles/assets/documents/2020Mar/FDA%20Supplemental%20Guide%20Release%202.5.1%202018%200410.pdf 4. Full list of Emergency Use Authorizations (EUAs) currently in place: https://www.fda.gov/medicaldevices/emergency-situations-medical-devices/emergency-use-authorizations#covid19 5. FDA guidance for face masks and respirators: https://www.fda.gov/media/136449/download 6. FDA guidance for non-invasive remote monitoring devices: https://www.fda.gov/media/136290/download 7. FDA guidance for ventilators, their accessories and other respiratory devices: ttps://www.fda.gov/media/136318/download 8. FDA guidance for diagnostic tests: https://www.fda.gov/media/135659/download

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Madhya Pradesh Unit Organising

National Textile Conference on 05th & 6th March, 2021 &

Textile Expo - 2021 on 05th to 08 March, 2021 at Labhganga Exhibition Centre, Indore For more details, please contact:

E-mail:taimpunit@gmail.com, ashokveda007@gmail.com


Controlling Quality of Colourants for Textile Application Dr. Ashok Athalye Prof. Textile Chemistry, Fibres & Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology

Dr. Ashok Athalye Dr. Ashok Athalye - Ph.D. (Tech) in Textile Chemistry (UDCT Mumbai) and a Fellow of Society of Dyers and Colourists (FSDC-UK), recently joined academics as a Professor at ICT, Mumbai. He is having work experience of over 26 years in technical service for the application of Dyes and Chemicals in textile processing. He gathered industrial competency based on the roles and responsibilities entrusted at various levels in Indian as well as multinational organizations. Travelled widely for the regular i n d u s t r y a s wel l a s a ca d e my interactions and published about 70 research and review articles in technical journals of international r e p u t e a n d m a d e t e c h n i c a l presentations at various seminars. Participated in the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) Textiles Specialty Chemicals and Dyestuffs Sectional Committee, TXD 07 as a member to review existing standards and scrutinize proposed standards. ashok.athalye@rediffmail.com, ar.athalye@ictmumbai.edu.in,

Textile is unarguably one of the most important basic needs of the civilised human beings. The primitive man used it for protecting the body from adverse climatic conditions and later its use evolved to cover the modesty and aesthetic appeal to become an essential component of daily life. The environment in which we live is abundantly coloured. Everything around us is colourful, from the different hues of sand and soil, tree and leaves, land and animals, water and ishes, sky and birds, lowers and bees, etc. Mankind being a social animal tries to adopt and imitate such colours in its personal attire and at the same time usually prefers to differentiate from others in terms of look and appearance. Here the dyed and printed textile that we wear comes into picture. The manufacturing of synthetic colourants began in 1856 with one product and soon lourished to become a full- ledged global industry which is currently estimated to be about $ 35 bn. India has mastered this technology and become the second largest supplier of colorants having close to 1000 manufacturers producing almost entire gamut for various end-use applications. Presently, the size of Indian colorant industry is estimated to be about Rs. 45000 cr of which almost 75 % is exported. This industry segment is expected to grow further with the support from the Govt based on the Make in India and Aatmanirbhar Bharat initiatives. Quality control and standardisation – it is essential to meet the consumer expectations and deliver products to adequately satisfy the demand in terms of quality, consistency, sustainability and conformance to the intended application performance. This necessitates achieving the standard quality parameters as devised by various stake holders like consumers, regulatory bodies, textile processors and the colorant manufacturers by ensuring stringent control over the product standardisation. Although, the similar types of dyes are supplied by many manufacturers, they do not ensure same performance and tend to behave differently under different application conditions. Such variance in performance has increased onus on the dyestuff manufacturer to devise methods for standardisation of dyes to suit the textile processors application needs. Moreover, adequate standardisation of dyes is also essential from the point of view of the textile processor in terms of receiving consistent quality supply to get uniform and reproducible results, increase in productivity by avoiding shade rejections and achieving reduction in water, energy as well as processing time. Various check points and test procedures are used during the dye synthesis for quality assurance before the standardisation of inal inished product. These tests involve evaluation and analysis of incoming basic chemicals, raw


materials and dye intermediates for conformance to speci ications. In-process testing is also required to be done to ensure stoichiometry during dye synthesis, to achieve optimum color yield and avoid wastage of chemicals. The standardisation methods include several testing parameters like physical, chemical, fastness, toxicological, ef luent related, etc and comparative analysis is made against an internal or external standard. Physical Characteristics (i). Appearance – varies from solid powder, lakes, granules, pearl/beads, paste, liquid

machinery on which it is intended to be dyed (based on conditions of liquor ratio, turbulence, temp, etc). Apart from the basic characterisation tests like Ionic nature and pH of the dye solution, various other performance application tests are carried out. Given below are select test methods with brief description. (i) Solubility – mainly for Reactive dyes, measured by preparing dye solution of speci ied concentration and then spotting it on ilter paper to check whether the dye spreads uniformly or precipitates at the centre and the results are compared against the standard.

(ii) Aspect – luf iness of powder, size and shape of granules, viscosity of the paste

Ÿ

Electrolyte- dye solubility in varying concentration of salt is measured

(iii) Colour – lighter/darker, brighter/duller

Ÿ

(iv) Odour – foul or obnoxious smell due to the fungal growth, chemical composition

Alkali - stability to different type of alkali is evaluated and compared

Ÿ

Temp - from ambient to the inal temp of dyeing is evaluated

(v) Moisture - varies depending on the storage conditions (vi) Gravimetric –ash /salt content, water insoluble matter

(ii) Dispersion – for Disperse and Vat dyes which are applied by pigmentation process Ÿ

Flow test - aqueous dye dispersion is spotted on Whatman No 3 ilter paper sandwiched between 2 glass plates. Uniform dye spread indicates good dispersion, while dye concentrate at the centre indicates poor dispersion

Ÿ

Separating funnel test- dye dispersion is allowed to stand for 24 hrs in a separating funnel and then the ilter paper dispersion is checked for top and bottom layers

Ÿ

Suction ilter test - dye dispersion is heated at 71°C for 10 min and poured under vacuum through Buckner funnel containing Whatman ilter paper 2 on top and ilter paper 4 at the bottom held by stainless steel ring. The time taken for iltration and the residual dye deposition on ilter paper is assessed

Ÿ

Speck test - Vat dye dispersion is vigorously stirred at 2200 rpm and iltered through woven cotton ilter cloth. Subsequently, the cotton ilter is treated with caustic soda and hydros (reduction) followed by chemical oxidation using hydrogen peroxide. Then the fabric is visually assessed for the number and size of visible specks and rated between 5 to 1 (5 is best)

Ÿ

Sandwich test - dye dispersion is iltered through PET/COT (50:50) fabric, dried in oven at 60°C rolled in the form of a funnel, reduced with caustic and hydros and air dried. Then both the fabrics are assessed for appearance of dye specks

Chemical Analysis (i)

Chromatographic techniques –involves use of G a s C h r o m a t o g ra p hy ( G C ) , T h i n L aye r Chromatography (TLC), High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC)

(ii) Spectroscopic techniques - analysis based on UV Visible Spectroscopy, IR Spectroscopy, Mass Spectroscopy and Transmission Spectroscopy (iii) Analytical techniques – assessment of heavy m e t a l c o n t e n t s i n g At o m i c A b s o r p t i o n Spectroscopy (AAS), estimation of particle size using Particle Size Analyser and Dust Analyser for evaluation of dye dusting characteristics Tinctorial Speci ication (i) Optical density – assessment and comparison of aqueous dye solution (ii) Visual assessment –shade and strength comparison under different light source (iv) Instrumental measurement – re lectance data by computer color matching system Performance Evaluation The methods would vary depending on the type of dye (Acid, Basic, Direct, Disperse, Reactive, Sulphur, Vat, etc), form of textile substrate to be dyed (lose ibre, top, yarn, woven, knit, towel, garment, etc), method of application (exhaust, semi-continuous, continuous) and the

(iii) Strength and shade assessment – the color value and tone of the production batch is compared against the


standard by practical dye application on the textile substrate in lab simulating bulk dyeing conditions. Generally, comparison is done at LMD (Low, Medium & Dark) depths. Lower depth is assessed for tone or hue, middle depth for strength and higher depth for build-up comparison. Ÿ

Ÿ

Ÿ

Exhaust dyeing - the textile substrate is dyed as per the intended bulk dyeing method, maintaining dye bath variables like MLR (material to Liquor ratio), time of dyeing, chemical dosing (basic chemicals like salt, alkali, reducing agent, etc and auxiliary chemicals like dispersing, levelling, sequestering, etc) and temp conditions. Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing – depending on the type of dye and intended application, different dyeing methods like CPB (cold pad batch), PS (pad steam), PDPS (Pad dry pad steam), PDTPS ( pad dry thermosol pad steam) Application performance – determination of standard depth, dye substantivity, exhaustion and ixation behavior, migration index and level dyeing factor, robustness to dye bath variables, wash off pro ile and dischargeability

Fastness properties The durability in terms of colour fading and cross staining of color from dyed area on to adjacent differently dyed or undyed part spoils the astheic appeal of the garment. Therefore, various comparative fastness tests like wash, light, rub, perspiration, saliva, etc need to be checked.

Storage Stability There could be considerable time lag between the time of dye manufacturing and its usage in textile processing. Also, there could be varying temp conditions depending on the seasonality and the location of storage. Therefore, it is important to determine and evaluate storage stability and shelf life of the dyestuff. ·

Accelerated storage stability –dye sample is kept in oven at 60°C for 7 days and then the performance properties are rechecked

·

Freeze Thaw test - dye sample is kept in refrigerator for 8 hr and then in oven at 60°C for 8 hr this process of cooling and heating is repeated 3 times and the performance is evaluated at the end of each cycle.

Summary The manufacture of a dye is normally a multi-stage synthesis from several intermediates and it is not always possible to ensure consistent reaction yields at every stage. Therefore, the quality control testing of each individual batch against a standard batch is an integral part of the dye standardisation process. The testing can also be carried out by an independent, accredited testing laboratory for few speci ic parameters. The analysis, testing, evaluation and standardization of a dye ensure achieving right irst time (RFT) performance during textile colouration. References 1.

J Park, Textiles Today, Feb 2013, Vol 6 Issue 2

2.

A. Athalye, Colourage, Oct 2015, 50-53

Journal of the Textile Association We are constantly working on ways to make each successive journal more relevant, internationally look and applicable to you and your business. With guidance and feedback from discerning readers such as you, we can add more value to future issues of JTA. Your opinion is important to us. Please give us your feedback at taicnt@gmail.com; jb.soma@gmail.com Please visit us at www.textileassociationindia.org


Driven by rapid urbanization, rising disposable incomes, lifestyle changes, and increased spending on home furnishing and interiors, the market for carpets and rugs is growing

the ield to offer all the equipment needed for carpet manufacturing right from BCF yarn production to carpet confection. Here is a line-up of A.T.E.'s carpet manufacturing portfolio that comes with A.T.E.'s assurance for quality, reliability and service: l

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phenomenally the world over. According to reports, the global carpet market is valued at USD 91.20 Billion in 2020 and is expected to reach USD 117.14 Billion by 2026, growing at a CAGR of 3.6% during 2021-2026. India's carpet industry, which employs 2 million people and exports $1.8 billion every year, has however stagnated in the last ive years. One reason for this is that the Indian carpet market is currently highly fragmented. It is imperative for India to invest in the right carpet manufacturing technologies and build scale if India is to be a part of this global growth story. It is with this intent that A.T.E. has tied-up with a number of global leaders in

l l l

l

l

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BCF yarn production lines from Truetzschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers, Germany Carpet yarn heat setting lines from Power-Heat-Set, Germany Tufting machines from Card-Monroe Corp., USA Digital printing from Zimmer, Austria Supporting equipment for digital printing lines from Yamuna Machine Works, India Carpet back coating/drying and carpet shearing/ inishing from Sellers Textile Engineers Limited, England Carpet confection lines, auto packing lines and winders from Matthys Group, Belgium, and Robotic tufting from EFAB, Germany

For more details, please contact: Jasbinder Kaur Panchi Executive Assistant to Director Textile Engineering GroupA.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited. M: +91-9869288040 T: +91-22-6676 6104

First warp knitted textiles with a seersucker effect Seersucker clothing is a hit every summer season. The fabrics look cool and can be worn without breaking into a sweat. This is thanks to slightly three-dimensional relie like fabric sides. The crepe-like surfaces ensure that the textiles do not lie directly on the skin, but are instead kept away from the body. This allows for ventilation and moisture balance. What's more, the relief-like structures mean the pieces do not need to be ironed after washing – and also give the fabric its name. The word seersucker originates from Persian and means shir o shekar: milk and sugar. These fabrics that offer many advantages are traditionally produced on rapier looms. Thanks to a recent breakthrough by Melanie Bergmann, Textile Technology Product Developer at KARL MAYER, it is now possible to produce seersucker-effect fabrics on warp knitting machines. To complete her work, the creative artist used a high-performance tricot machine – type HKS 4-M EL in E 28 – and a polyamide winding yarn with an

elastane core. The gauge of the textured PU/PA yarn is dtex 110 f 24. “The material was tensioned in GB 1 and GB 2 and creates a great visual effect when relaxing,” explains Melanie Bergmann. The surface structure and elastic properties can both be changed by lapping the wrapping yarn differently.

The possibilities were explored when implementing various sample series at the end of last year. During further trials in March 2020, Melanie Bergmann also in luenced the elasticity, as well as the latness and the characteristics of the 3D effects using different threadings. These new fabrics with a versatile, moving surface design enable warp knitting companies to effectively expand their production repertoire. KARL MAYER particularly sees potential for clothing and home textile manufacturers in Turkey. Warp knitting is generally highly ef icient compared to many other surface forming processes and results in products that neither pull stitches nor fray at the edges. There are further examples in the pattern part of this issue. For more details, please contact: KARL MAYER Gruppe Industriestraße 1 63179 Obertshausen


In course of the succession planning, Christian Straubhaar will take on the position as Senior Vice President Sales at Rieter Machines & Systems in Winterthur on January 1, 2021. Straubhaar will succeed Reto Thom who will retire. Christian StraubhaarChristian Straubhaar holds an Engineering Master's Degree in Industrial Management from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich (ETH) and is a sales executive with 20 years of extensive experience in the textile industry. Recently, Straubhaar was responsible as Group

KARL MAYER (CHINA) shows for the irst time new solutions of the STOLL brand for lat knitting at the Inhouse Show on 19.12.2020 in Changzhou. KARL MAYER will be presenting lat knitting machine technology on its premises for the irst time. The

innovative world market leader in textile machinery building had acquired the industry leader STOLL in February 2020, and shortly afterwards moved its Shanghai plant to KARL MAYER's Changzhou site as one of the irst integration projects. From 17 to 19 December, the Group will be organizing an in-house show there to present itself as a leading supplier of innovative solutions for warp knitting and lat knitting on the Chinese market.

Sales & Marketing Director at Itema for the world-wide sales of machines and spare parts. Prior, he held various positions in Operations and as Business Unit Head in Itema and other global textile companies. His professional career shows a solid track record in identifying new market potentials and growing the business for the company. Straubhaar has a longstanding experience in selling to both large and small customers and developing key accounts within our industry. Reto Thom has very successfully lead the Sales department at Rieter Machines & Systems for many years and made an enormous contribution to the success of the company.

Highlights of the face-to-face event include a brand new l a t k n i t t i n g m a c h i n e fo r t h e vo l u m e m a rke t demonstrating its skills in the automated and fully digitized production of an individualized fully fashion article, innovative software solutions for lat knitting and design inspiration for the creative process. There will also be a presentation of an innovative technology for the production of everyday masks: during the knitting process, the nose bridge for the face covering is inserted automatically. Representing warp knitting technology, a weft knitting machine will be demonstrating how chic home textiles and garments can be produced highly ef iciently. A guided tour of the company will round o the show program with its high market relevance. During the inhouse meeting of the knitting industry at KARL MAYER (CHINA), STOLL's customers will be able to see for themselves the high-tech equipment in the halls where their machines are produced, and the expertise of the team that will be on hand to help them. "The modern production facilities and new setup of Stoll development at Changzhou will strengthen values for customers in China and Asia,� Yang ZengXing, General Manager of KARL MAYER (CHINA), is certain. Visitors will also be able to gain an insight into other areas of the KARL MAYER Group. For example, they will ind out how they can bene it from the digital solutions of the software start-up KM.ON, and learn about other technologies such as warp knitting. For more information, please visit: h t t p s : / / w w w. k a r l m a y e r. c o m / e n / n e w s - a n d media/events/stoll-product-show-china-2020/


Ÿ

Gerald Vogt (50) succeeds retiring Rolf Strebel (65) as new CEO of the Stäubli Group

Ÿ

Christophe Coulongeat (39) takes over worldwide responsibility for the Robotics Division

Stäubli, a global leader in industrial and mechatronic solutions, is starting the New Year with a new Chief Executive Of icer. Gerald Vogt, previously responsible for the global business of the Robotics Division, will take over as CEO from Rolf Strebel on January 1, 2021. With Gerald Vogt, an experienced manager from within the company's own ranks will take over the management of the diversi ied and growing family-owned company. The 50-year-old Franco-German engineer and business economist has been responsible for the global Robotics business as Group Division Manager since mid-2016 and is already a member of the Group Management. When he joined Stäubli almost 20 years ago, Gerald Vogt initially moved from the development and production site in Faverges, France, to the US for several years. As Division Manager he signi icantly expanded business for Stäubli Robotics North America. Afterwards he returned to Faverges as Head of Development before taking over responsibility for the German business as Head of Stäubli Robotics in Bayreuth. To ensure a smooth transition and prepare for his future tasks as CEO, the Stäubli Board of Directors nominated Gerald Vogt as the designated successor to Rolf Strebel at the beginning of 2020. Since then, Gerald Vogt has accompanied the current CEO and is responsible for the introduction and

implementation of the new business strategy for Stäubli until 2030. “We are delighted to have found in Gerald Vogt a forwardlooking manager with an extensive international experience and a clear entrepreneurial spirit who is Gerald Vogt already very well connected - New CEO of Stäubli Group within the Group. He has our full con idence to further advance the business of the entire Stäubli Group worldwide," said Yves Serra, Chairman of the Board of Directors. "On behalf of the entire Board of Directors and the Stäubli family, I would like to take this opportunity to thank Rolf Strebel for more than 40 years of dedication to Stäubli and his outstanding work as CEO of the Stäubli Group over the past 14 years. We wish him all the best for the time ahead," added Serra. Christophe Coulongeat will assume the global responsibility for the Robotics Division on January 1, 2021. The French manager has been Deputy Division Manager since 2018 and previously gathered extensive experience in the packaging and automation industry in France, Austria, the United Arab Emirates and Switzerland. With this succession in management, Stäubli is setting the course to consistently pursue its growth and further expand its market position worldwide, especially in North America and Asia.

Debottlenecking at the world's largest plant for synthetic iron oxide pigments Specialty chemicals company LANXESS has expanded its capacity for black synthetic iron oxide pigments at its Krefeld-Uerdingen site by more than 5,000 metric tons per year. “The increased demand from the construction industry, in particular for our unique black pigments to color concrete, can be even better met with the debottlenecking measures that have now been completed,” says Holger Hüppeler, head of the Inorganic Pigments business unit at LANXESS. The company is thus continuing the systematic expansion of its production capacities for synthetic iron oxide pigments. LANXESS is the only supplier worldwide to produce these pigments using the Laux process.

Black is trending Uerdingen_Pigment Schwarz Produktion Sitecore Internet Image In architecture and landscaping, the black coloration of concrete has been a trend for some time now. Concrete is a creative material, which provides a multitude of possibilities to building material producers, architects, and building contractors. With the use of suitable pigments, this applies not only to the architectural design of concrete, but especially to its coloration. “Thanks to their up to 15 percent higher tinting strength and reliable color consistency, our Bayferrox 330 and Bayferrox 340 black pigments are the preferred choice for coloring high-quality cement-based building materials – for


example not only in manufacturing concrete paving stones and roof tiles, but also in architecture,” explains Hüppeler. In addition, these special iron oxides from LANXESS offer further clear bene its. The pigments produced using the Laux process are the only synthetic iron oxides that are specially certi ied by an independent testing institute for safe use in ultra-high-strength concretes (UHPC). UHPC is used in construction projects where, for example, high load capacities and very lightweight, customized structures are required. And these high-quality pigments are also impressive when it comes to their sustainability credentials. They are certi ied for their high content of recycled raw materials by SCS Global Services, one of the leading companies for audits and independent certi ications worldwide. On the way to being more environmentally friendly In Krefeld, LANXESS operates the world's largest plant for manufacturing synthetic iron oxide pigments. The global importance of this site is con irmed every year by its extensive investment in capacity expansion and process optimization, as well as the continuous expansion of environmentally friendly production technologies. Thanks to the unique Laux process, the production facility at the Krefeld-Uerdingen site already has an excellent carbon footprint. This is because this special chemical process uses the heat generated during the reaction to create steam, which is in turn used in the subsequent process steps. “Our goal is to use targeted measures to continuously reduce the CO2 footprint of our pigments. In the future the energetic use of hydrogen, which is produced during the production process of our pigments and can be used as a substitute for fossil fuels, will also play an important role,” says Hüppeler. Specialty chemicals group LANXESS has set itself an ambitious climate protection target. By 2040, the group aims to become climate-neutral and reduce its greenhouse gas emissions from the current level of around 3.2 million metric tons of CO2. By 2030, LANXESS aims to cut its emissions by 50 percent to around 1.6 million metric tons of CO2 compared with today. LANXESS is a leading specialty chemicals company with sales of EUR 6.8 billion in 2019. The company currently has about 14,400 employees in 33 countries. The core

business of LANXESS is the development, manufacturing and marketing of chemical intermediates, additives, specialty chemicals and plastics. LANXESS is listed in the leading sustainability indices Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI World and Europe) and FTSE4Good. Forward-Looking Statements This company release contains certain forward-looking statements, including assumptions, opinions, expectations and views of the company or cited from third party sources. Various known and unknown risks, uncertainties and other factors could cause the actual results, inancial position, development or performance of LANXESS AG to differ materially from the estimations expressed or implied herein. LANXESS AG does not guarantee that the assumptions underlying such forward-looking statements are free from errors, nor does it accept any responsibility for the future accuracy of the opinions expressed in this presentation or the actual occurrence of the forecast developments. No representation or warranty (expressed or implied) is made as to, and no reliance should be placed on, any information, estimates, targets and opinions contained herein, and no liability whatsoever is accepted as to any errors, omissions or misstatements contained herein, and accordingly, no representative of LANXESS AG or any of its af iliated companies or any of such person's of icers, directors or employees accepts any liability whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from the use of this document. For further information, please visit: http://webmagazine.lanxess.com


CII Industrial Innovation Awards were instituted in 2014 by Confederation of Indian Industry. CII identify and celebrate innovative Indian enterprises across industry segments and sectors. The Awards serve as a platform to showcase to the world Indian companies known for their innovative products and services. R e c e n t l y, C I I h a s o n 9 t h December 2020 through an online ceremony has announced the CII Industrial Innovation Awards for the year 2020. At the event, Lakshmi Machine Works Limited -Textile Machinery Division (LMWTMD) was named as “The Most Innovative Company of the Year - 2020”. CII has formulated an Enterprise Innovation Maturity Framework which forms the basis for assessment of irms applying for CII Industrial Innovation Awards. The process of selecting the award is through a thorough audit that evaluates company's vision statement, the innovation process, methodology, alignment of employees towards innovation goals, products that

emanate from the system, bene its that accrue to the customer etc. The audit process is well de ined with collection of inputs through a questionnaire, followed by a two-stage audit, wherein the irst stage activity is handled by an auditor who selects the top 25 innovative companies based on benchmarked parameters. The selected companies are then evaluated by a grand jury that selects the toppers in various categories and announces the Grand award. As a result, over the last six years, CII Industrial Innovation Awards have emerged a s o n e o f t h e m o s t c ove t e d innovation awards in the country. This year the grand award, namely “The Most Innovative Company of t h e Ye a r – 2 0 2 0 ” h a s b e e n conferred upon “Lakshmi Machine Works Limited – Textile Machinery Division” for its innovative products namely, FixFil, Lap former LH20S and Speed frame LF4280 SX. This Prestigious award serves as an important recognition for LMW's consistent innovative efforts aimed at bringing the latest in textile spinning technology to its customers.

Great results in productivity, quality and easy operation The single-head draw frame generation from Rieter offers an unprecedented level of productivity with the highest quality standards. The SB-D 50 draw frame without leveling is lexible in application and has numerous interesting features, including a patented sliver guide, unique sliver coiling and an ef icient suction. The demand for single-head draw frames is increasing as it is not always the high volumes that are needed. Many spinning mills offer special yarns or blends in small ranges for which the SB-D 50 draw frame without leveling and the RSB-D 50 autoleveler draw frame are the perfect solutions. They distinguish themselves from the competitors by high delivery speed at consistent quality. They produce at a delivery speed of up to 1 200 m/min whereby the speed could be increased by up to 33% compared to the previous model depending on the iber material. Newly, the SB-D 50 is also available in Indian rupees and, thus, is an attractive package together with the RSB-D 50

autoleveler draw frame in terms of economy and easy operation. They both distinguish themselves by their high level of productivity and share the same spare parts as well as the same operating concept. For customers who need an uneven number of draw frame heads, the SB-D 50 can also be combined with the Rieter doublehead draw frame SB-D 26. In addition to its lexible application possibilities, the SB-D 50 is characterized by several interesting features (Fig. 1). Consistent sliver quality at all times The patented sliver guide from Rieter which also comes with the SB-D 50 guarantees centric sliver guidance and consistent sliver quality at all times. The most common error that occurs with conventional sliver guides is a noncentric guidance of the sliver. The reason for this is that the sliver guides in front of the drafting unit are often wrongly adjusted leading to uneven drafting and creating also thick places. This is avoided with the patented sliver guide from Rieter. It ensures that the web width is


reproducibly set by simple turning of the guide elements (Fig. 2). The geometry of the 4-over-3 drafting system allows close cylinder spacing and therefore also good processing of short iber lengths. Additional iber guides in the main drafting ield prevent lateral slipping of the edge ibers. Fewer disturbing faults in the yarn are the result.

Helix Bild Pos 01 retusche ausschnitt blau Sliver Guide RSB-D 50

SB-D 50 from Draw frame programme

Perfect in coiling The SB-D 50 has the right coiler for different needs. CLEANcoil is the standard coiler for all iber materials RSB-D 50 Unique sensor for exact irst sliver coils RSB-D 50 Draw Frame and therefore offers Reliable sliver separation without additional maximal lexibility. The spiral coiling tube ensures coiling mechanics which is free of drafting faults, even at high delivery Materials with a high iber-to- iber cohesion, like for speeds. A honeycomb structure on the coiler underside example 100% polyester, need a sliver separation reliably prevents deposits. between illed and empty can for a trouble-free can For the processing of 100% polyester, the latest change. Other products require a rather complex development CLEANcoil-PES with a new type of coating mechanical device here which causes wearing costs and offers unique advantages in coiling. Even with critical comparably dif icult settings. The SB-D 50 has a more polyester ibers, the cleaning cycle can be extended by at elegant solution for this: Between the drafting system least 100% compared to the standard coiler. This also and the draw-off calendar a thin place is generated which leads to more consistent sliver and yarn quality. is transported below the coiler and deliberately breaks at Unique sensor for exact irst sliver coils can change – without the need for additional parts. Cans with plates that are too low are annoying in most Simple setting of suction intensity is a standard spinning mills. They lead to tangles and also to breaks Trash and dust on the pressure bar lead to sliver funnel when drawing the sliver out of the can in the subsequent blockages and impair the quality of the yarn. The ef icient process. The SB-D 50 solves this problem with a contactsuction concept from Rieter ensures that – through the free precision light barrier (patent pending). It detects lifting of the cleaning lips − trash accumulations are when the irst sliver coils make consistent contact with removed directly via the suction. Practical tests con irm the coiler and only then switches the machine from the fewer sliver funnel blockages. The increased yarn slow mode to full production speed (Fig. 3). This cleanliness is shown in reduced imperfections and guarantees controlled sliver coiling also in cans where Classimat faults as well as in lower number of yarn the plates are too low, and ensures consistent sliver and clearer cuts. yarn quality. At the next process stage the cans therefore Only on the Rieter draw frame, the operator can set the run without interruption until they are completely suction intensity easily and rapidly on the machine empty. This maintains machine ef iciency at a high level, display as a standard. The setting is easy to reproduce. reduces operator intervention, eliminates sliver waste This simpli ies not only material change but also and keeps quality on a consistent level. eliminates quality deviations when, for instance, several Even when only a small number of can plates are too low draw frames are feeding sliver to one assortment. in a spinning mill, the new sliver sensor brings Easy operation and rapid assortment changeover considerable advantages. Assuming 5% of the annual The SLIVER professional expert system is integrated in illed cans are affected, it sums up to more than 3 600 cans t h e m a c h i n e . T h e d i re c t a d o p t i o n o f s e t t i n g for each draw frame. This leads to about 2 300 kg of waste recommendations allows a rapid assortment changeover which can be avoided by the sliver sensor.


with best sliver quality which can easily be done even by less trained operators. It comprises a convenient setting of the delivery speed, coiler speed and suction intensity on the touchscreen via frequency-controlled drives (Fig. 4). High visibility LEDs indicate the condition of the draw frame and further simplify the work for the operator. A colored touchscreen facilitates intuitive operation.

For further information, please contact: Rieter Management AG Media Relations Relindis Wieser, Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com / www.rieter.com

Mr. Pratik Gadia, Fo u n d e r a n d CEO of a startup ' T h e YA R N BA Z A A R' h a s started a very unique concept o f B 2 B E Commerce in t h e YA R N Business. It is a B2B Holistic Yarn Marketplace catering to all entities i.e. Yarn Manufacturers, Weavers, Traders and Brokers. Pratik who loves challenges; by planning vacuum and need, arranged his business execution to make the world's irst end-to-end yarn dealing platform.

reservations by his family and other people in the industry as well.

Inspiration to start a STARTUP IN TEXTILE Belonging to a textiles family, Pratik Gadia is a metalhead who gets as excited being at the helm of the business world as the distorted riffs of his guitar. After completing his Masters in Innovation & Entrepreneurship from the University of Warwick in the UK, he joined his family business of manufacturing & wholesaling shirting fabrics. Being constantly annoyed by the way the yarn purchasing was carried out and having spotted a gap in the industry, he decided to pursue this opportunity. Spending 2 years on research, working on the business model, and on the tech, the company started its operations in July 2019. The company's vision is to create an end to end yarn platform serving all needs and pain points of the industry; making it very seamless and ef icient. Challenges / Hardship faced during the journey He realized that the industry was in dire need of change. He says, “I saw that procurement of yarn was a big challenge and it also impacted our production plans.” ”The industry works on credit which means a lot is at stake and if there is a delay in delivering the yarn, then the entire production process is disrupted.” Pratik's decision to adopt the new and untouched ield of digital commerce in the textile sector was seen with

One of the challenging tasks according to him was pitching the idea of bringing digitization in the yarn industry. He says, “As youngsters, it sounds logical but if you talk to someone who is 50 plus then it is dif icult to convince them because they don't relate to digitization.” A strategy has helped in growing as a person/startup “From calibrating a sound business model to deciding the tech architecture to creating an intuitive user interface and inally building the tech; everything has been extremely challenging and is an ongoing process”, says Pratik. According to him, having the right advisors on board is a really good strategy. He believes he has been very fortunate and blessed in this case and that has helped him, both, as an individual and as a startup. Bringing the industry closer The Yarn Bazaar is bringing the yarn industry closer and at the same time, it is increasing trust within the stakeholders and also reducing the chances of fraud. Pratik says that he plans to take the business model to other industries such as polymers, coal, and chemicals. But as of now, he is focusing on scaling. Operating on a 100% advance payment basis, the platform has some well-known mills registered such as Aditya Birla Group, Pallava, Sintex, Trident, GHCL, Nahar, Banswara, Damodar, Sitaram, etc. And within 17 months of its operation, the company has done a business worth over 100 crores, all on 100% advance payment basis. Advice to someone starting as an aspiring entrepreneur. Know WHY? You will have a better sense of direction if you have a clarity on your purpose of being an entrepreneur. For more detail, please contact: The Yarn Bazaar Mr. Yash Trivedi E-mail: yashtrivedi@theyarnbazaar.com Website - https://theyarnbazaar.com/


· Group among the top 5 percent of all companies evaluated · Included in CDP “Climate A List” for the fourth time LANXESS' efforts in tackling climate change have again been recognized by international climate protection initiative CDP. In the most recent evaluation, the specialty chemicals company is once more listed in the “Climate A List” as one of 270 companies worldwide, placing it among the top 5 percent out of around 5,800 enterprises evaluated by CDP. The score “A” is awarded to companies that report on their climate protection activities in a particularly transparent and comprehensive manner and implement corresponding projects. For LANXESS it is the fourth inclusion in the “A List”. The company has been disclosing data relevant to climate protection to CDP since 2012. “Climate protection is a central part of LANXESS' corporate strategy. A fact that we underline with our ambitious goal to become climate neutral by 2040. Being awarded climate protection leader by CDP, once again proves that we are on the right track”, said Hubert Fink, member of the Board of Management of LANXESS AG. Only recently, LANXESS was again included in the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices (DJSI) World and Europe – thanks to very good results in the area of climate strategy, among other things. The specialty chemicals company is at the top of the DJSI Europe in the “Chemicals” category, as it was last year, and improved to second place in the DJSI World. Said Fink: “We are delighted that our commitment to greater sustainability and climate protection has been recognized so widely.” Climate neutral by 2040 In the past year, LANXESS has focused its business activities even more strongly on sustainability, with climate protection and energy ef iciency being key topics. By 2040, the specialty chemicals company intends to

In today's COVID-19 induced new normal, health and hygiene have become ever more essential needs across the globe. Dry or wet wipes are widely used today in a number of hygiene-related applications – both domestic and personal. And as wipes are usually made from nonwovens, nonwoven manufacturing processes have taken on a renewed importance in the textile industry with many textile manufacturers looking for end-to-end solutions in all aspects of wipe manufacturing.

become climate neutral and eliminate its greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019, LANXESS emitted 3.06 million metric tons of CO2 equivalents – around 150,000 metric tons less than in the previous year. Sustainable water management intensi ied LANXESS has also intensi ied its commitment in the area of water management and for the irst time has submitted respective data to CDP. In its irst evaluation, the specialty chemicals company received the score “B”. In addition, LANXESS has recently set itself speci ic goals for sustainable water management. As part of its “Water Stewardship Program”, the Group will initially strengthen sustainable water management with speci ic local projects at four sites in the areas with the greatest water stress. The aim is to reduce absolute water withdrawal at these sites by 15 percent by 2023. The experience gained from these projects should help to further improve water performance globally. C D P : H i g h e s t t r a n s p a r e n c y o n c o r p o r a t e environmental data The independent non-pro it organization CDP aims to create worldwide transparency on greenhouse gas emissions and the management of water resources and forests. In 2020, more than 9,600 companies submitted their data. This makes the CDP data platform one of the world's most comprehensive sources of environmentally relevant information. The project is currently supported by more than 515 investors' worldwide managing assets totaling around USD 106 trillion. To increase transparency for all stakeholders, LANXESS is offering quick and easy access to all sustainability igures in an ESG data factsheet at https://lanxess.com /en/Investors/ESG For more information, please visit: https://www.climateneutral2040.com/ http://webmagazine.lanxess.com.

However, dry or wet wipes can be dif icult to dispose as they can clog sewage systems due to their failure to disintegrate in water. Land illing of used wipes is just not a sustainable option. To counter this problem, Voith Group (Division: Paper) and Truetzschler Nonwovens joined hands to develop lushable wipes. These wipes can simply be lushed down the toilet without worry because they disintegrate into individual ibres in agitated water.


Wet-laying technology The wet-laid process for nonwovens is similar to the making of paper. The irst step involves suspension of ibres and water to form a slurry, so that single ibres of different types are evenly distributed in the water. The web is formed when the slurry is passed over a wire belt. When the water is sucked off through the belt, a homogeneous ibre mat is formed. The spunlacing process performed by the AquaJet system on this ibre mat further produces nonwovens that feel like textiles. Unlike the carding process where longer ibres are required, wet laying can utilise ibres as short as 2 mm up to 15 mm to form the web. In principle, every ibre that is dispersed in water can be wet-laid. Hence, ibres of low cost like wood pulp i.e., cellulose ibres, man-made and mineral ibres, etc., can be used. The WLS (wetlaying/spunlacing) process does not require any binders as hydro-entangling the single ibres gives the nonwoven adequate strength. Wipes produced through wet-in-wet (i.e. a combination of wetlaid and AquaJet processes) are extremely versatile. Truetzschler Nonwovens in collaboration with Voith Paper offers the following solutions for manufacturing wet-laid nonwovens: HydroFormer from Voith Group Most conventional dry or air-laid sheet forming processes are based on the use of long ibres. This meant that in the past, it was often not possible to use the less expensive and more environmentally friendly pulp ibres for nonwoven production. To close this gap, Voith's HydroFormer acts as a bridge between paper and nonwoven production.

cellulose feedstock. Apart from the obvious cost savings and environmental bene its, this process offers homogeneous sheet formation and considerable lexibility for multi-ply end products. It also enables the manufacturing of disposable cleaning wipes from 100% biodegradable materials. Voith's HydroFormer has been speci ically optimised for the formation of wet-laid nonwovens. With more than 70 successful installations, the HydroFormer has gained worldwide acceptance. Bene its of the HydroFormer Ÿ Cost effective use of raw materials Ÿ Renewable materials used exclusively Ÿ Considerable minimisation of ibre losses due to reuse Ÿ Simple one step manufacturing of multi-ply products Ÿ Extensive lexibility in raw material use Aq u a J e t f o r s p u n l a c i n g f ro m Tr u e t z s c h l e r Nonwovens After the web is formed in the HydroFormer, it needs to be bonded to add strength and function. It is in this bonding step that the know-how from Truetzschler is applied. Web bonding is performed with the help of the AquaJet. In this ield, Truetzschler Nonwovens draws on its extensive experience of more than 100 projects running worldwide. Compared with other web bonding methods, the AquaJet spunlacing process does not use chemical binding agents or bicomponent ibres but relies only on the momentum of water jets to entangle the ibres with one another. Continuous high-pressure water jets strike the loose nonwoven web, which is moved through on a belt underneath the water bar, while suction fans remove the water used. The bonding increases tensile strength and lends the material the soft feel of a textile. Structures and perforations can also be created, if required.

Nonwovens lushable wipes hydroformer voith

Bene its of the AquaJet Use of environmentally friendly and inexpensive raw materials Produces soft nonwovens Natural bonding process using water only High savings potential – thanks to optimised pump and vacuum performance Integrated system for excellent nonwoven quality

The HydroFormer concept for wet-laid nonwovens builds on Voith's long-standing experience from the paper and pulp industry which predominantly uses short iber cellulosic feedstock. Inexpensive and biodegradable, thanks to a very high dilution in suspension, nonwovens produced by the HydroFormer can be produced entirely out of renewable, cost-ef icient

In harmony with the environment Apart from short ibres being used, the VoithTruetzschler process avoids the use of chemical binders to bond the web formed. This reduces the raw material cost for making nonwovens. Compared to oil-based materials like PET/PP ibres, cellulose ibres do not burden the environment after use. Wipes produced


entirely from these degradable ibres in a customised wet-laid spunlacing process can therefore be conveniently lushed down the toilet. Both the AquaJet and the HydroFormer have been developed with water conservation in mind. The water from the process is iltered via a shared water cycle with downstream production steps, and then treated and returned to the manufacturing process. Flushable products must pass a de ined test sequence developed by INDA and EDANA, the North American and European nonwovens associations.

A.T.E. represents Truetzschler Nonwovens in India. A.T.E. is a leader in textile engineering with over 80 years of experience and oers solutions across the textile value chain – spinning, weaving, knitting, nonwovens, processing, synthetics, technical textile, carpet, and made-ups. A.T.E. is the only company in India and perhaps in the world with such bandwidth in textile engineering. A.T.E. also operates in the areas of wastewater treatment, heating and cooling solutions, IoT for industry, low technology, and value-added equipment for textiles, packaging, etc.

The BB Engineering VacuFilprocess enables the reutilization of polyester waste into high-end textile ilament and iber products. BB Engineering GmbH - press release 1 Sustainable handling of natural resources is a global task, something that needs to be addressed now and not just in the future This relates in particular to the further development of the circular economy for post-consumer or post production waste For this reason, the recyclability of PET products made by the manmade iber industry is attributed special signi icance Modern resource friendly packaging would not be conceivable without manmade PET ibers and commodities generally made from chemicals, such as beverage bottles, cleaning materials, etc As a raw material that is along with polyole ins and polyamide such a dominant raw material, it is essential that polyester is also recycled. For PET bottle material, the recycling of polyester materials and the possibilities for converting the waste into new high end products within the polyester ilaments, ibers and nonwovens market are state of the art Across the globe, consumers in the markets are demanding sustainable products and the careful utilization of resources increasingly in the textile sector as well Leading fashion companies, sports apparel and furniture manufacturers and the automobile industry, i e for car seats and interior cladding components, are increasingly focusing on sustainable products and products made from recycled materials Today, they are already telling suppliers of ilaments, ibers and nonwovens that they will be switching from exclusively virgin polyester to recycled polyester in some cases up to 100 percent for the manufacture of their textile products in the near future Consumers' social awareness has been the trigger for this development. The original idea namely to manufacture sub premium goods using recycled polyester raw material, i e for use in

Visco+ ilter components – the heart of the BBEngineering's VacuFilrecycling system insulating materials is short sighted from today's perspective Recycled polyester has long been prevalent within the high end textile segment Viewing polyester as a valuable resource rather than as waste is an important and proper development. Manmade ibers and ilaments made from recycled bottle lake material require corresponding single variety collection or presorting of the bottle material being recycled and comprehensive cleaning before they are shredded into polyester lakes It is then possible to spin these lakes directly into POY ilaments (DTY in the downstream process), staple ibers, nonwovens and BCF endless ilaments Today, the technology is so re ined that the products achieve a quality standard that corresponds to virgin material in many applications. However, there are also many cases in which the material quality and/or property achieved does not comply with the market requirements For numerous textile applications, parameters such as viscosity and homogeneity are crucial and must be subject to virtually no luctuations In other words, to enable recycled


polyester to be used here in the irst place necessitates its pretreatment And this is carried out by the VacuFil recycling process, a BB Engineering GmbH development. The VacuFil enables the manufacture of extremely homogeneous, viscosity stable rPET melt and hence a precisely de inable and reproducible raw material for downstream processes (i.e. spinning plant) As a manufacturer of components and systems for producing manmade ibers, BB Engineering ( is familiar with the dire impact that even the smallest viscosity deviation has on the spinning plant process With the VacuFil the company has succeeded, depending on the intended end application, in aligning the melt with the process in a targeted manner Macro and microscopic melt homogeneity is achieved by means of homogenization drying, controlled plasticizing, gentle iltration and controlled vacuum degassing. In the downstream processes, the melt can either be irst granulated or fed directly into the end product's manufacturing process Recycled polyester, produced using the BBE VacuFil process, can even be used for more challenging downstream processes, including the manufacture of FDY ilaments, for example Here the material is subjected to extreme loads throughout the entire manufacturing process In the FDY single stage process, the ilaments are drawn and taken up at speeds of up to 4 500 m/min.

development of post-consumer PET material and post production PET material is of special interest to BBE's parent companies and the reason for them bundling their recycling know how to form the BB Engineering joint venture. BBE is located at the same site in Remscheid as Oerlikon Barmag When it comes to the downstream processes with the VarioFil spinning system the basis for spinning high end manmade POY and FDY iber ilaments for textile and industrial applications that has been tried and tested for decades now BBE is already an established manufacturer of compact and lexible systems for the manmade iber industry VarioFil R spinning systems have been used for converting PET regranulates and directly PET lakes into POY/DTY for both textile and carpet applications And spin dyed products made from PET recycled granulates are also being produced using VarioFil systems The development, construction and assembly of VacuFil and VarioFil units are carried out exclusively in Remscheid, very much in line with the company's tried and tested 'Made in Germany' machine construction philosophy.

BBE is headquartered in Remscheid/Germany and is a joint venture between Brückner Group GmbH, the world market leader for machines for the polyester foil industry and headquartered in Siegsdorf / and Oerlikon Textile GmbH Co KG, the world market leader for systems for the manmade iber industry and headquartered in Re m s c h e i d / G e r m a ny B B E i s a p i o n e e r i n t h e development of processes for using recycled materials, particularly polyester lakes, and converting them into contemporary, market appropriate products for ilaments, ibers and nonwovens for manmade iber industry consumers “Our decades of competence kicked in while we were developing the VacuFil What Oerlikon Barmag brings to the table as a technological leader in the ield of ilament yarn spinning systems, BBE complements with considerable know how in the area of extrusion and iltration and in systems construction and engineering!”, states Dr. Klaus Schäfer, CEO of BBE.

VacuFil premiered at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, garnering considerable attention at the trade fair Since then, numerous tests have been conducted on the pilot system at the Remscheid site using authentic waste material supplied by various customers The polyester recycled using the VacuFil has been successfully spun into POY and FDY Various target viscosities and starting materials are not a problem for the VacuFil thanks to the innovative key component, the Visco vacuum ilter A reactor is not required The VacuFil unites gentle large scale iltration and swift intrinsic viscosity build up for consistently outstanding melt quality The attached vacuum unit, which is automatically regulated between 1 and 30 mbar, removes volatile contamination, ensures a controlled IV increase and additionally achieves an ideal melt homogeneity, which is vital for the downstream spinning performance Comprising an inline viscosity measuring unit connected to the vacuum system, the IV can be continuously and reliably adjusted Hence, producers are able to generate the speci ic kind of recycled polyester they require for their application The excellent degasi ication performance additionally relieves energy intensive pre drying.

BBE is the exclusive supplier of extrusion ilter technology for various manmade iber industry polymers, particularly polyester, for its parent companies As a result of its association with the Brückner and Oerlikon Textile groups, BBE is always aware of the requirements of the further processing industry in terms of granulate and melt made from recycled polyester It is also, and particularly, for this reason that the further

With their modular structure and a performance spectrum of between 300 kg/h and maximum 3 000 kg/h, VacuFil systems open up various possibilities for processing polyester waste Bottle lakes, agglomerated spinning waste or a mixture of both can be processed into high quality PET granulate or fed directly into downstream processes (i e the spinning plant) The entire recycling process is controlled and monitored by


Oerlikon Barmag's GUIDE system, guaranteeing the accustomed reliability. With an optional 3 DD mixer, the market proven mixing technology manufactured by BBE, producers can not only add additives to the melt, they can also easily change rPET ratios in the main melt from between 5 and 50 percent stream in order to comply with legal standards. Customer requirements can be optimally catered for with various system con igurations. “The close collaboration between the future operators of the system and our experts ensures that projects are successful Tests carried out using authentic raw material supplied by customers

4th National Conference (Virtual) – TEXCON 2021 New word of Textiles – Shaping for the Future Date : 18th to 19th February, 2021 Venue : Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Ujjain Road, Indore – 453 111, M.P. Contact : Mr. Ajay Joshi Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, Ujjain Road, Indore – 453 111, M.P. Mob. : 7389208664, 9522237612, 8518019275 E-mail : texcon@svvv.edu.in Website : http://events.svvv.edu.in/texcon/ National Textile Conference – Organised by TAI – M.P. Unit Date : 05th to 06th March, 2021 Venue : Labhganga Exhibition Centre, Indore Contact : Shri Ashok Veda, Textile Association (India) Ashok Bhavan, 14/1, Race Course Road, Indore – 485 001 M.P. Tel. : 0731-2433612, 9131767240 E-mail : taimpunit@gmail.com, ashokveda007@gmail.com 22nd Edition Fabrics & Accessories Trade Show Date : 06th & 07th March, 2021 Venue : Karnataka Trade Promotion Org. Bengaluru, Contact : S.S. Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. 826, 9th cross, 10th Main Rd, 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, Bengaluru, 560 038 Karnataka Tel. : +91-80-25214711, 41151841 Mob. : +91-9845446570 E-mail : sstm@textilefaiarsindia.com Website : www.textilefairsindia.com

in our small scale production system guarantee a sophisticated process that complies with the mentioned requirements With our process visualization system, customers always have a close eye on the broad operating window and the optimum operating point And if this is occasionally not the case, our software supplies useful process optimization information This saves costs and increases productivity!”, explains Matthias Schmitz, VacuFil Product Manager. For further information, please contact; Mrs Pia Kürten,Marketing Tel.: 49 2191 9510 194, E-mail: Kuerten.pia@bbeng.de

ITM 2021 Date : 22nd to 26th June, 2021 Venue : Tuyap Fair Convention and Congress Centre, Beylikduzu, Istanbul Website : h ps://www.itmexhibi on.com/itm2021 Yarnex – India Intrnational Yarn Exhibition Date : 01st & 03rd July, 2021 Venue : Pragati Maidan, Delhi Contact : S.S. Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. 826, 9th cross, 10th Main Rd, 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, Bengaluru - 560 038 Karnataka Tel. : +91-80-25214711, 41151841 Mob. : +91-9845446570 E-mail : sstm@textilefaiarsindia.com Website : www.textilefairsindia.com FILTECH 2021 Date : 23rd to 25th August, 2021 Venue : Cologne, Germany Website : filtech.de Shanghaitex – 20th Intl. Exhibition on Textile Industry Date : 23rd to 26th November, 2021 Venue : SNIEC, Shanghai (Pudong) Website : h ps://www.shanghaitex.cn/STX21/idx/eng ITME India Exhibition 2021 Date : 08th to 13th December, 2021 Venue : IEML, Greater Noida Website : Itme2021.india-itme.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers. ADVERTISEMENT INDEX Covid 19

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