E journal sep oct '14 by TheTextile Association (India)

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WEAVING

Characteristics of Draw Textured and Air-Jet Textured Yarns M.Y. Gudiyawar* & Rahul Gadkari Department of Textiles D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract Polyester false twist draw textured and air- jet textured yarns were manufactured using draw and air jet texturising machines. Both the textured yarns were manufactured using same feed yarn and draw ratio. The two textured yarns were evaluated for bulkiness, tensile, shrinkage and moisture management characteristics. The draw textured yarn was found to have higher strength, breaking elongation, dimensional stability, moisture absorbency, moisture transportation and lower bulk as compared to air jet textured yarn. Keywords Air-jet textured yarn, Draw textured yarn, Drop absorbency, Physical bulk

*All correspondence should be addressed to, M.Y. Gudiyawar, DKTE Society's Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra-416115 Email: gudiyawar@gmail.com September - October 2014

2. Material and Methodology 2.1 Material Polyester POY of 126/34 denier was used. 2.2 Methodology Polyester draw textured yarn was manufactured using Himson HDS-CX2 draw texturing machine at a delivery speed of 300mpm, primary heater temperature of 1800c, secondary heater temperature of 1600c, draw ratio of 1.7, D/Y of 2, stabilising overfeed of 4% and take-up overfeed of 6%. The polyester POY, which was used for manufacturing draw textured yarn, was also used for preparing air jet textured yarn. Before feeding it to the air jet texturising machine, POY was drawn to 1.7 draw ratio at heater temperature of 1900c on Himson HDS-CX2 draw texturing machine and texturising discs and secondary heater were bypassed. In order to convert FDY in to air jet textured yarn, the drawn polyester yarn [FDY] was fed to Himson HJT-1000 air-jet texturising machine at 300mpm, 8kg/cm2 air pressure, 1litter/jet/hr water, 30% overfeed to jet and stabilizing heater temperature of 1800c. 2.3 Testing The following tests were carried out for textured yarns. 2.3.1. Linear density Linear density of draw textured and air-jet textured yarns was tested using ASTM D1907-07. 2.3.2. Tensile Characteristics Tensile properties of the draw textured and air-jet tex171

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Texturing is increasingly gaining importance in textile production, not only in yarns for weaving and knitting fashion products, but also for carpets, furnishing fabrics and a variety of technical textiles. False-twist and air-jet texturing methods are most common processes. Textured yarns impart higher bulk, excellent dimensional stability and softer handle to the fabric. False twist draw textured yarns are commercially known as draw textured yarn. In the draw texturising process crimps are introduced into the filaments by twisting, heating and untwisting. In the air-texturing process one or more ends of multifilament yarns are passed through a jet in which air turbulence is maintained. Multifilament yarn or yarns are fed into the jet at a higher rate and withdrawn at a lower rate. The airflow causes the filaments to be blown apart, curled into loops [1]. Draw textured and air jet textured yarns have different structures. A draw textured yarn is consisting of crimpy parallel filaments and air jet textured yarn has entangled core and surface loops. Therefore, characteristics of the two textured yarns differ because of difference in the arrangement of filaments. In this investigational work, polyester partially oriented yarn (POY) was texturised into draw textured and air jet textured yarns using industrial scale draw and air jet texturising machines and characteristics of both textured yarns were compared.

WEAVING tured yarn was measured according to ASTM D225695a using Instron tester with 500mm gauge length, 300mm/min crosshead speed. 2.3.3. Crimp rigidity% The crimp rigidity is a measure of the ability of a draw textured yarn to recover from stretch. The draw textured yarn crimp rigidity was measured as per Hosiery and Allied Trades Research Association standard. In this test, a load equivalent to 0.1g/den was suspended from a skein of yarn which was immersed in water at room temperature. After 2 minutes, its length L1 was measured. The load was then reduced to 0.002g/den and after another 2 minutes, the reduced length L2 was measured [2]. The crimp rigidity is given by the formula: L1 - L2 Crimp rigidity =

×100 L1

2.3.4 Physical bulk The physical bulk of the draw textured and air-jet textured yarn was measured by using Du Pont's method. In this method, a length of yarn weighing 85 grams was wound on the package before and after texturing at the same tension. The ratio of the package density of parent yarn to the package density of textured yarn multiplied by 100 gives the physical bulk of the textured yarn [3]. (Package density of parent yarn (g/cc) Physical = bulk (%)

×100 (Package density of textured yarn (g/cc) (m2-m1)

Package density (g/cc) = [l ×(r2-r1)]

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Where,

weight of full bobbin (gm)

m1 l r2 r1

= = = =

weight of empty bobbin (gm) length of yarn on package (cm) radius of full bobbin (cm) radius of empty bobbin (cm)

2.3.5. Wicking height Wicking height of draw textured and air-jet textured yarn was measured as per German standard DIN 53924. A yarn sample of 25 cm length, preconditioned at 20 deg centigrade, 65% RH was suspended vertically with its lower end immersed in a reservoir of 172

200ml distilled water. To the vertically suspended sample 2 grams of load was attached at the lower end. Ink was added to the reservoir of distilled water for tracking the movement of water. The height reached by the water in the yarn above the water level in the reservoir was measured at different time intervals. 2.3.6. Drop absorbency A weight was attached at one end on the sample to impart tensile force in the yarn equal to the weight. The custom made tiny pipette was used to measure water to an accuracy of 0.5mg. A water droplet was placed on the yarn and the time taken for the water droplet to wick into the yarn and disappear was measured as drop absorbency time of both the textured yarn. 2.3.7. Boiling Water Shrinkage ASTM D6207 testing procedure was used for dimensional stability measurement of draw textured and airjet textured yarn. This test method covers the determination of shrinkage of yarns in skein form when immersed in boiling water. 3. Results and discussion: Table3.1 characteristics of draw textured and air jet textured yarns Characteristics

Draw textured

Air-jet textured yarn

Yarn (tex)

Tenacity (grams/tex)

Breaking elongation (%)

Crimp rigidity (%)

Boiling water shrinkage

Physical bulk (%)

157

164

wicking height (cm)

2.95

2.1

Drop absorbency (sec)

3.1 Textured yarn structure and bulk: The structures of draw textured and air jets textured are shown in Figure3.1 and 3.2. The draw textured yarn has wavy filaments. Air jet textured yarn has loops on the surface and these loops are held in their position by the entanglement of filaments and this entanglement makes the core of air jet textured yarns. The air-textured yarn structure is characterized by loop frequency, size of loops and core diameters, which influence the characteristics and appearance of yarns [4]. Whereas, the draw textured yarn has crimpy filaments almost parallel to each other without core and September - October 2014

WEAVING 3.2 Tensile characteristics:

Figure 3.3 : Tenacity of Textured yarns.

Figure 3.1 : Microscopic structure of draw textured yarns

Figure 3.2 : Microscopic Structure of Air-jet textured yarn

surface loops. The draw and air textured yarns have physical bulk. The changes in yarn properties are due to the formation of bulked structure. The level of physical bulk is different for the two textured yarns. The physical bulk value of draw and air jet textured yarns are shown in Table 3.1. The bulk of textile structures is dependent upon their packing density. Lower the packing density, higher the bulk. The air textured yarn has higher bulk than draw textured yarn. The higher bulk of air jet textured yarn is due to its lower packing density. The air jet textured yarns occupy more volume for the given weight as compared to draw textured yarns due to the surface loops. Therefore, the packing density of air jet textured yarns is lower and bulk is higher than draw textured yarn.

September - October 2014

The tenacity and breaking elongation of draw textured and air jet textured yarns are shown in Figure 3.3 and 3.4 respectively. Draw textured yarns have higher strength and higher breaking elongation as compared to air jet textured yarn. There is also significant difference in the tenacity and elongation of draw and air jet textured yarns. The partially oriented yarn, used as feed yarn for the two yarns manufacturing, is same and drawn to the same draw ratio. It means structure of the yarn due to texturising has resulted in the difference of tensile characteristics. The structure of yarns is shown in Figure 3.1 and 3.2. The lower tenacity and lower breaking elongation of air jet textured yarns, firstly, is due to the higher filaments entanglement in the yarn core formed by texturising [5] and secondly, due to the obliquity effect and the lower number of filaments sharing the axial load. The air jet textured yarns have surface loops and entangled core [Figure 3.1] and these surface loops reduce the number of filament in the yarn core and filament entanglement in the core increases the obliquity effect. The higher strength of draw textured yarns as compared to air jet textured yarns is due to the crimpy parallel filaments without entanglement. The draw texturising process also increases the disorientation of molecules in the filament and this higher disorientation of molecules and crimps of filament increase the breaking elongation of filament. The air jet texturing process does not change the molecular orientation of filament [6]. 173

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.4 : Breaking Elongation of Textured Yarns.

WEAVING 3.3 Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarns:

Figure 3.5 : Boiling Water Shrinkage of Textured Yarns.

Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarn is a function of the shrinkage of feeder yarn and the heat treatment given during texturising process. The Boiling water shrinkage of draw and air jet textured yarns is shown in Figure 3.5 and there is significant difference in the Boiling water shrinkage of draw and air jet textured yarns. Boiling water shrinkage of draw textured yarn is lower than air jet textured yarn. It means draw textured yarn has higher dimensional stability as compared to air jet textured yarn. The higher dimensional stability of draw textured yarn is due to heating of yarn on both primary and secondary heater and air jet textured yarn is heated only on one heater. The molecules of draw textured yarn relax better than air jet textured yarn and higher molecular relaxation results in lower shrinkage and higher dimensional stability. In addition, open structure of draw textured yarn [Figure 3.1] also facilitates more exposure of filament to temperature in the process and compact core of air textured yarn hinders the exposure of filament to temperature in the process. 3.4 Moisture management of textured yarn:

Moisture management of yarn is its ability to absorb gaseous or liquid humidity from the skin and transport it to the outer surface and release it into the surrounding air. Moisture management of yarn affects the comfort level of the wearer, particularly at the high sweating level. Earlier studies have revealed that the texturising of filament yarn improves their moisture management ability [7]. The moisture management of yarns is expressed by drop absorbency and wicking rate. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of textured yarns are shown in Fig 3.6 and 3.7 respectively. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of air jet textured yarns is lower than draw textured yarns. The drop absorbency indicates the wetting behavior of yarn. Drop absorbency (wetting) of air jet textured yarn is lower than draw textured yarn due to the reduction in interfilaments spaces for capillary movement. The diameter of capillary between the filament is reduced by the compact core of air jet textured yarn and delayed the moisture absorbency. Whereas, more open structure of draw textured yarn resulted in higher wetting. The higher wicking of draw textured yarn is also due to higher wetting as wetting is prerequisite for wicking [8]. 4. Conclusion: Filament arrangement is different in draw and air jet textured yarns. The draw textured yarn structure is more open with crimpy parallel filaments and air jet textured yarn has compact structure with surface loops. Air jet textured yarn has higher bulk, lower strength and lower extensibility as compared to draw textured yarn. Dimensional stability and moisture absorption and transportation characteristics of draw textured yarn are better than air jet textured yarn. 5. References 1.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.6 : Drop Absorbency of Textured Yarns.

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Figure 3.7 : Wicking Rate of Textured yarns. 174

M. Acar and G.R. Wray, Journal of Text. Institute, Vol.77, No.1, p19-27, (1986). B.Piller, E.Lesykova, 20th International synthetic fiber symposium in Dornbirn, September 23-25,(1981). Booth J. E., CBS Publishers Third Edition, (1996) Du Pont Technical Information Bulletin, X154, 10, (1961). V. K. Kothari, A. K. Sengupta, R. S. Rengasamy and B. C. Goswami, Textile Res. Journal, 317-323(June 1989). A Demir, M. Acar, R. Turton, Melliand Int, E 126-128,4/ (1988). M Y Gudiyawar, C D Kane, Sultan Soudagar, Chemical Fibres Inte.1,43 (2011) De Borr, J.J, Textile Res. Journal, 50, 624(1980).

❑❑❑ September - October 2014

DYEING

Colouration Properties of Indigo Dyed Wool Top Dyed with Marigold M. D. Teli*, Sanket P. Valia & Dhanashri Kolambakar Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract In the present investigation eco-friendly dyeing of wool with natural indigo dye and marigold was carried out to obtain a green shade. Indigo dye has a very good scope in the commercial dyeing of wool in textile industry. To obtain a beautiful green colour, pre dyed wool fabric with indigo was top dyed with marigold dye and the fastness properties of dyeing were evaluated. The dyed wool fabrics showed excellent washing and light fastness properties. The various colour changes on wool were measured by computer colour matching software. The various colours developed on dyed wool fabrics were evaluated in terms of CIELAB coordinates (L*, a*, b*) and the dye absorption on the wool was studied by using K/S values. The colour fastness results of the dyed fabrics were found to be good to very good. Keywords

Presently there is an excessive use of synthetic dyes, estimated at around 10 x106 tons per annum, the production and application of which release vast amount *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019, India Tel.: +91-022-33612811 Email : mdt9pub@gmail.com September - October 2014

of waste and unfixed colourants causing serious health hazards and disturbing the eco-balance of nature. [4] Nowadays, fortunately, there is increasing awareness among people towards natural dyes. Natural dyes are preferred in developed countries, because they are nonallergic, non-carcinogenic and have lower toxicity and better biodegradability than the synthetic dyes [5]. Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue colour. With indigo there is no need to mordant the fabric beforehand. Indigo is economical and environmentally friendly. Most parts of the world have native plants that produce indigo. It can be used on fibres like cotton, silk, wool etc. Indigo is lightfast and it works quickly and we can get blue fabric after just 10 minutes in the indigo vat. Indigo, however, is a base for many other colours. It is almost essential for good greens and blacks; one can produce a wide range of greens by over dyeing indigo with yellow dyes such as marigold. For attractive violets, purples and mauves over-dyeing it with madder or cochineal is a good way [6]. Marigold flower [Tagetes erecta L.], a major source of carotenoids and Lutin and is grown as a cut flower, in addition it is grown for its medicinal values. Marigold flowers, which are yellow to orange red in colour, are a rich source of lutein, a carotenoid pigment. Although marigold flower extract has been used in veterinary feeds, the potential use of marigold as a natural textile colourant has not been exploited to its full extent [7]. In this study, experiments were conducted to find out the effect of marigold extract as a top dyeing colour on pre dyed wool. 175

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction The natural colourants that are safer and eco-friendly in nature are emerging globally, leaving synthetic colourants behind in the race as far as eco-friendly products are concerned. Natural dyes have many advantages over synthetic dyes [1]. Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather, wood as well as natural fibres like cotton, silk, wool and flax since ancient times. Natural dyes may have a wide range of shades and can be obtained from various parts of plants including leaves, seeds, roots, bark, flowers, fruit, etc. Since the advent of widely available and cheaper synthetic dyes in 1856 having moderate to excellent colour fastness properties, the use of natural dyes having poor to moderate wash and light fastness has declined to a great extent. However, recently there has been revival of the growing interest on the application of natural dyes on natural fibres due to worldwide environmental consciousness [2]. In many of the world's developing countries, natural dyes can offer not only rich and varied source of dye stuff, but also the possibility of an income through sustainable harvest and sale of these plants [3].

DYEING 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 2.1.1 Source Natural dyes, indigo and marigold were supplied by Adiv Pure Natural, Mumbai. All the other chemicals and auxiliaries used for application and extraction were of laboratory grade and purchased from S.D. Fine Chemicals, Mumbai. 2.1.2 Substrates RFD wool fabric of 60GSM was purchased from a local market, Mumbai. 2.2 Methods 2.2.1 Preparation of Indigo Dye Indigo is a dark blue crystalline powder and is insoluble in water or alcohol. Dye is soluble in an alkaline vat solution. Blank vat solution is prepared by using 20gpl of 40% NaOH and 10gpl hydrose at 500C. A 2g of Indigo dye is pasted using TRO and the volume is made to 100ml by blank vat solution and heated. Upon vatting the solution becomes green in colour. This solution is filtered and used for dyeing. 2.2.2 Preparation of mordant alum A 10% stock solution of mordant alum was made by dissolving 10g of mordant powder in 100 ml of water. Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) is the mordant most frequently used by dyers for protein and cellulosic fibres. It improves light and wash fastness of all natural dyes.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.2.3. Extraction of marigold dye A 10% stock solution of dye was prepared by boiling 10g of marigold powder in 100ml of water for 60 minutes. The extract was filtered and made to 100 and used for dyeing. 2.2.4. Dyeing Process The wool fabric was dipped in the blank vat solution for 10 min and then was taken out and squeezed. The indigo dyeing solution was prepared for different shades 2%, 5% and 7% (used for over dyeing with marigold), 20%, 30% and 40% (self shade). Wool fabric was dipped in the indigo solution for 10 min at room temperature. The soluble indigo thus combined with the fibre. Fabric was removed from the dye bath and was exposed to oxygen. It was observed that in the air it gradually changed colour from pale yellow to blue. Fabric was then neutralized with acetic acid and then washed with soap solution for 10 min. The fabric was then squeezed and dried. Also indigo dyed wool fabrics (2%, 5%, and 7%) were 176

mordanted with Alum 20% in Rota dyer keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The fabrics were introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 600C for wool fabric and mordanting was continued for about 60 min. After mordanting the fabrics were squeezed and dyed with 10% shade of marigold dye in Rota dyer keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. All dyeing were carried out at 600C for 60 minutes. After dyeing the fabrics were squeezed, washed and dried. 3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Colour value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100 + equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression; K S

(1-R)Â˛ =

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient. Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, higher the K/S value, higher is the depth of colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100- white, 0- black), a* to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II method. A 5 g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in Rota machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the sample were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent). 3.3 Evaluation of Light fastness Dyed fabric was tested for colour fastness to light according to ISO 105/B02. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature 650C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were compared with September - October 2014

DYEING the standard scale of blue wool (ratings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3-moderate, 4 - good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent).

play an important role in determining the light fastness. It is very clear from the results given in (Table 2) that the light fastness of samples showed a very good rating (Grade 5).

4. Results and Discussion As the indigo dyed shade (%) increases, the K/S values also increases (refer Table 4.1). This is attributed to increase in concentration of dye in the bath which is subsequently absorbed by the fabric in increased amount.

5. Conclusion Indigo dye being insoluble in water is generally fast to washing and it requires pre reduction to convert it into solublised form for applying on the fibre. However, it does not require any mordant and can dye the wool at low temperature. The present study clearly indicated that it can dye wool fabric to varied depths. In order to obtain green shades on wool the present work confirms that indigo dyed wool fabric can be subjected for top dyeing with marigold dye. Depending upon the relative shades of top dyeing and base dyeing the final blue color shows variations in tones. Thus the beautiful color green shades were found to be displayed standard degree of wash fastness as well as good fastness to light.

The colour fastness to washing is good to very good (Rating 3-4). The light fastnesses values of the samples were found to be very good (Rating 6). Indigo dyed fabric is over dyed with marigold dye which gave beautiful shades of green. This is because the dominant blue was controlled on wool by using lower shades of indigo on wool and such wool which were having 2%, 5% and 7% indigo when dyed with 10% marigold gave rise to a hue (green) due to the mixed effect of yellow topping on blue base.

Table 4:1 K/S report of Indigo dyed wool fabric

Sr. No.

Shade % K/S

1 2 3

20% 30% 40%

30.108 28.742 28.202

-3.021 -1.953 -1.665

-17.754 -18.377 -17.24

14.719 18.476 18.989

Wash Fastness Light Fastness Rating Rating (Colour Change) (Colour Change) 3-4 6 3-4 6 3-4 6

Table 2: K/S report of Indigo dyed wool fabric topped with Marigold dye using Alum (20%) as mordant

1 2 3

Indigo 2%+Alum 20%+Marigold 10% Indigo 5%+Alum 20%+Marigold 10% Indigo 7%+Alum 20%+Marigold 10%

K/S

18.378

40.708 -13.196 25.378

18.552

32.184 -13.671 13.302

18.791

24.909 -11.172 4.438

As the percentage shade of dye increases there was a very little increase in the K/S values of this green since the base indigo varied in the shade to a limited extent i.e. 2% to 7%. The colour obtained from the Indigo dye is from light blue to dark blue and with topping of marigold dye it was from light green to dark green. The colour fastness to washing was good. The resistance of dye/pigment to chemical or photochemical attack is an inherent property of the dye chromophore, but at the same time the auxochrome may also alter the fastness either way. The substitution pattern of dyes seems to September - October 2014

Wash Fastness Rating (Colour Change)

Light Fastness Rating (Colour Change)

References 1. A. Inayat, S. R. Khan, A. Waheed and F. Deeba, Proceedings of the Pakistan Academy of Sciences, 47(3), 131-135, (2010) 2. A. K. Samanta and P. Agarwal, Indian Journal of Fibre and textile Research, 34, 384-399, (2009). 3. G.W. Taylor, Review of progress in colouration, 53, (1986). 4. D. Jothi, AUTEX Research Journal, 8(12), (2008) 5. A. Purrohit, S. Mallick. A. Nayak, N. B. Das, B. Nanda and S. Sahoo, Current science, 92(12), (2007). 6. http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/indigo.html 7. D. Jothi, Extraction of natural dyes from African marigold flower (Tagetas Erecta L) for textile colouration, textile engineering department, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia 177

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sr. No. % Shade

TESTING

Fabric Assistance Effect on Woven Fabric Tensile Strength: A Brief Review Biswajit Saha*, Manoj Kumar, Kunal Singha & Amit Madhu Department of Textile Engineering Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology Abstract Tensile strength has been accepted as one of the most important performance attributes of woven textiles. In this connection, it is to mention that fabric assistance is one of the major factors in realising woven fabric tensile behaviour. In this current review, the phenomenon of fabric assistance has been elaborately explained in both theoretical & mathematical ways. Influence of various yarn and fabric characristics such as raw material, yarn & fabric structure, yarn surface properties, ends and pick densities, fabric geometry, weaving conditions, air-permeability, fabric finish etc. on fabric or cloth assistance have been thoroughly reviewed. A number of useful facts have been discussed from various research papers and books worldwide with proper figures and tables. Negative impact of fabric assistance in case of highly dense fabrics has also been explained. As a whole, the present article will definitely throw some light in solving various queries related to woven fabric tensile characteristic by the technical experts from industries as well as by the people from research organisations.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Tensile strength, Fabric assistance, Woven fabric, Fabric characteristics, Yarn characteristics

1. Introduction Strength is one of the most important parameter of woven fabric. Strength is directly related to durability of garment. The knowledge of tensile properties of fabric helps in predicting the suitability of both the raw materials used and the end product. From the earliest days of cloth testing, tensile strength has been regarded as the primary and most important attributes of woven textiles. This is because; to any end use, a fabric requires certain minimum tensile strength. With the development of garment industry, the measurement of tensile strength is gaining a fairly wide importance these days as it is directly involved in the assessment of serviceability of the fabric in use. But, according to Taylor [37], the usefulness of the test for cloth strength is one of assessment of quality and not one of assessment of serviceability. Nevertheless, when a demand for a minimum strength is added to the cloth specification, the manufacturer is restricted to a minimum quality fibre and yarn and to a range of twist factors. Therefore, a fall in strength may yield a valuable warning of a change in the quality of raw material or yarn or of deterioration in the control of finishing pro* All correspondence should be addressed to, Biswajit Saha, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Samalkha, Haryana, India - 132102 Email : biswajit_saha77@yahoo.com 178

cesses. Moreover, in woven fabrics, the assistance due to the interlocking threads and the yarn crimp values are likely to affect the yarn strength realized in the fabric. 2. Fabric Assistance Tensile strength of a woven fabric strip is not equivalent, in most cases, to the cumulative strength of the total number of constituent yarns in the test direction. Because the number and strength of individual yarns in the cross direction also have a strong bearing on the fabric strip strength. Strength transfer efficiency of yarns in the test direction is the percentage of cumulative strength of total number of individual longitudinal yarns in that direction which is transferred to the fabric after weaving [19]. Malik et al. [19] express strength transfer efficiency (STE) of warp and weft as follows (equations i, & ii); Strength of fabric strip in warp direction STEwp (%) =

x 100 Cumulative strength of constituent yarns in fabric strip in warp direction

………….. (i)

September - October 2014

TESTING Strength of fabric strip in weft direction STEwt (%) =

(Sc-Sy) x 100 x 100

Cumulative strength of constituent yarns in fabric strip in weft direction

………….. (ii) According to Taylor [37], strength of woven fabric of common constructions usually ranges between 85% and 125% of the integral strength of all the yarns in the direction tested. In a similar way, Morton & Williamson [24] have stated that the strength of a fabric depends on (a) the strength of yarn of which it is composed and (b) the way in which the available yarn strength is utilized when tested in cloth form. The ratio of fabric breaking load per single yarn to yarn breaking load has been discussed by Taylor [37] for cotton cloths. This ratio is known as the "cloth strength factor" or "cloth assistance factor" (CAF) and is defined as (equation- iii); CAF = F/nf

…….(iv)

Fabric Assistance Percentage = Sy

Where, Sc = Tensile strength in lbs. of 1"x 7" ravelled strip (warp or weft-way), Sy = Multiple Strand Strength in lbs. of an equal number of threads (Warp or weftway) Booth [5] has observed that the ratio of 'Strip strength per thread' to 'Single thread strength' is generally higher than unity which indicates that the transverse thread have some form of binding effect on the longitudinal threads. As a result, fabric strength increases. He also called this phenomenon as 'fabric assistance'. According to him, when the load is applied to a strip of fabric, the crimp in the direction of loading is gradually reduced and the crimp in the transverse threads increases, a process known as crimp interchange. As a result, waisting of the specimen takes place. In the middle, contraction in width is maximum and reduces towards the jaws. This is shown in Figure 2.1.

…………… (iii)

Where, F = Fabric breaking strength as determined by strip method, n = Number of longitudinal threads in the fabric strip, f = Breaking strength of the yarn.

Fabric assistance, as defined by Rengasamy et al. [33], is the percentage rise in the strength of a set of yarns when another set of yarns is inserted to form a fabric. According to Ananthan & Kulkarni [4], the fabric assistance is expressed as follows (equation iv); September - October 2014

Figure 2.1: Woven fabric tested in strip form [5]

As per Haque [12] also, fabric assistance is the additional strength of yarn while in the fabric and it is developed by the cohesive forces of the adjacent yarns and the force due to the interlacement of yarns. He has also concluded that the fabric strength is always greater than that of the single yarn strength. The interlacement of one set of threads with another in a fabric generally leads to an augmentation of the resistance of both to breakdown, when subjected to load, or in effect positive fabric assistance is realized in warp and weft direction. It is important to note that the factors such as twist and regularity of component yarns, their count, warp and weft sett, yarn crimp, and friction between longitudinal and transverse threads, have considerable effect on fabric assistance as realized in the conventional tensile strength test [4]. Booth [5] says, to find out a relationship between fabric strength and the strengths of the component yarns 179

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Taylor [37] is the first to introduce the concept of fabric assistance in woven fabric made by ring spun yarn. According to him, the presence of crossing threads in the fabric test specimen has three effects: (l) they tend to localize the rupture thus modifying the simple theory of the strength of a bond of threads; (2) they cause crimping of the longitudinal threads so that they do not lie continuously in the direction of stress; and (3) they increase the binding of the fibres in the individual yarns thereby increasing strength. Thus crossing threads effectively shorten the yarn lengths under stress thus increasing the cloth strength. He also says that the strength of yarns is determined by the weakest place in the specimen. However, if the specimen length is very short, the variation of strength along the length is considerably smaller.

TESTING is a complex job. The variables are characteristic of raw materials, yarn structure, fabric structure and fabric finish. As per Realff [31] & Seo et al. [35], fabric assistance may be influenced by the raw material characteristics, such as yarn strength, count, yarn irregularity, fabric structure, set, crimp, weave, fabric finish, yarn structure etc. Some of them have been briefly reviewed and discussed below. 3. Effect of Yarn Characteristics on Fabric Assistance 3.1. Yarn Raw Material Strength improvements from fabric assistance due to interlacement of threads are more pronounced in polyester/cotton blended materials than in pure cotton [30]. As per Figure 3.1, cotton is found to be superior in strength to draw frame blend (polyester/cotton) in the multiple strand tests. But after the fabric is woven, draw frame blend becomes superior to cotton in regard to strength due to fabric assistance.

spun yarn has the maximum. A higher roughness of yarn surface due to the presence of wrapper fibres in air-jet and rotor yarns causes higher friction force between warp and weft yarns. This enhances the radial pressure between the fibres of longitudinal yarns, increasing their friction potential and in the process a better utilization of fibre in the yarn contributing to fabric strength. The weaker the yarn the higher is the fabric assistance. High assistance indicates that fibre strength is exploited to a greater extent in fabrics [33]. It has been observed by Hari & Shankaranarayanan [13] that the rotor yarn fabrics have more breaking tenacity than the ring yarn fabrics. According to them, the nonload-bearing wrapper fibres in the rotor yarn get trapped in the fabric structure and contribute to strength. For ring spun yarn fabric, in weft-way for plain weave, yarn strength variable indicates its positive correlation in realisation of fabric strength, though yarn U % has negative correlation with fabric strength per thread. On the other hand a coarser yarn gives more strength per thread than finer counts [30]. The OE-friction spun yarn, having loose structure with larger diameter provides larger area of contact between the warp and the weft yarns, increasing the frictional assistance of yarns, and hence shows a higher S-Y ratio compared to ring yarn combinations [33].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.1: Comparison of tensile properties of multiple strand and fabric (draw frame blend and cotton, draw frame blend and ring frame blend) [30]

As per Gabrijelcic et al.[10], a more significant effect can be detected on the shape of the stress-strain curve and on the final values of the breaking force of fabrics in the warp direction when weft yarns are composed of cotton and manmade fibres (PET and PA). The reason is that, the warp and weft differs in the raw material composition - various blends of fibres with different rigidity, which causes a decrease in the breaking force in the warp direction by more than 13%. But it can be increased by using doubled yarns in weft instead of single threads. 3.2. Yarn Structure As Influenced By the Spinning System The ratio of fabric strip strength per yarn to single yarn strength is lowest for ring-spun yarn, whereas air-jet 180

Almetwally & Salem [3] have found that compact yarn fabric leads to higher breaking load than that of ring yarn fabric as shown in Figure 3.2 (a, b). Higher breaking load of compact fabrics may be related to increasing fibre extent inside the yarn due to elimination of spinning triangle rather than fabric assistance factor. Also Omeroglu & Ulku [26] have observed that fabrics woven from compact yarns have higher tensile strength than those woven from ring yarns.

Figure 3.2: (a) Response surface of breaking load versus filling yarn count and twist factor for compact fabric (b) Response surface of breaking load versus filling yarn count and twist factor for ring fabric [3] September - October 2014

TESTING

The presence of cross yarns does the function of reducing the gauge length (in other words, free length of fibre between gripping points) and enhancing the friction forces between the fibres of the longitudinal yarns. Further, the weak places in the individual yarns are supported by the cross-over points between warp and weft in the fabric. These factors cause an increase in S-Y ratio [33]. The improvement in this ratio also depends on the extent of binding/gripping of cross yarns over the longitudinal yarns that depend on the friction between these yarns in and rigidity of the transverse yarns. A yarn with rough surface experience more friction under sliding at low speeds [33]. As per Ning Pan [28], the yarn cross-section and surface property, the yarn strength, fiber volume fractions of the fabric and the yarns, and the external loads exerted on the fabric are found to be the important variables determining the fabric tensile strength. He has also stated that yarn-yarn interactions at the crossing points dictate the critical yarn length based on which the actual fabric strengths at uniaxial and biaxial extension cases can be calculated. The Figure 3.3 shows various forces acting on a plain weave fabric under biaxial loading, where the load sL is applied in the warp direction, the load sT in the weft direction and P being the compression force. The yarn-yarn interactions are found to consist of two components, a pressure-independent adhesive component and a pressure-dependent frictional one, of which the latter is proved to be dominant. According to him, a more realistic stress/ strain relationship for a woven fabric can be obtained by including the effect of the between-yarn strength variation which leads to a gradual breakage of yarns in the fabric under external tension.

September - October 2014

Figure 3.3: Various forces on a plain weave fabric. (a) Biaxial loading on the fabric; (b) cross-section along a weft yarn; (c) forces at an interlacing point [28]

3.4. Other Yarn Characteristics AL-ansary [2] has statistically shown that as the number of filaments in the filling yarn cross section increases, the tensile strength of the woven polyester fabrics also increases. This is shown in Figure 3.4(a) and can be interpreted as more interaction of weft yarns of higher number of filaments with warp yarns i.e. more fabric assistance. So, it can be said that the tensile strength of micro polyester fabric is more than those woven from normal polyester fibers. In case of staple yarns, increase in the thickness of yarn results to increase in tensile strength in warp direction as observed by N. A. Kotb [14]. He has also observed a non-linear relationship between yarn count and stress elongation in weft direction.

Figure 3.4: (a) Effect of number of filaments on fabric tensile strength [2] (b) Yarn compression due to the tension in woven fabrics [29]

The twist factor has been found to have a positive effect on fabric assistance and hence on its breaking load. On the contrary filling yarn count has negative influence on fabric breaking load as per Almetwally & Salem [3]. Increasing filling yarn count from 30 Ne to 50 Ne leads to a decrease of breaking loads by 15 kg and 17 kg for compact and ring yarn fabrics respectively. 181

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3.3. Yarn Surface Characteristic Every piece of woven fabric is an integration of warp and weft yarns through intersection, the extent of which is largely dependent on the friction between fibres and yarns [40]. Morton [23] says that the friction forces between warp and weft, which are mainly dependent on the surface structure of yarns, influence the fabric strength to a greater extent. In woven fabrics, cross yarns provide lateral pressure to the longitudinal yarns as the fabric is extended along the longitudinal direction during tensile testing.

TESTING Kothari & Chitle [15] has observed that strength realization of single yarn into the fabric is higher than that in case of fabric with two-plied yarn. Though the load bearing capacity of single yarn is lower than the corresponding two-ply yarn, this may be a result of better fabric assistance provided to the single yarns. On the other hand, a coarser single yarn gives more strength per thread than finer counts [30]. 4. Effect of Fabric Characteristics on Fabric Assistance 4.1. Yarn Tension during Weaving Another important aspect of change in fabric assistance has been observed by Huang Gu [11]. He has found that warp-wise tensile and tear strengths of fabric woven face up are usually greater than those woven face down which is attributed to tensions differences between yarns in the top and bottom sheds during the weaving process. This changes the interaction of the warp and filling yarns and their compression in fabric i.e. fabric assistance.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

4.2. Fabric Geometry The mechanism of yarn failure in a fabric subjected to uniaxial tensile loading is strongly influenced by fabric geometry at the instant of failure and by yarn properties both mechanical and topological [34]. Adomaitiene et al.[1] have observed that an alteration of the geometrical parameters of fabrics is affected by the yarn structure and weaves and they have proved it for polyester, cotton and wool fabrics. Ozgen & Gong [27] state that the binding of fibres in individual yarns takes place in fabric as a result of the compression force between the two sets of yarns. The compression between the warp and weft yarns develops as a result of very high tension during the weaving process. This leads to yarn flattening and distortion of the yarn cross-section takes place as shown in Figure 3.4 (b). They also have observed how the yarn crosssection changes along the yarn path in woven fabrics based on the elliptical cross-section model. Sherburn [36] says that the geometry of any textile fabric can be represented in a generic way by independent specification of path of yarn and its cross-sections. As per Turan & Okur [38], both yarn shape and size form the yarn's path and cross-sectional shape by applying vertical and lateral forces at contact points of the yarn in fabric. The vertical forces at contact points produce elliptical shapes, but the increased lateral forces compress yarns at higher settings and the cross-sec182

tional shape become closer to a circle. In different weave types, depending on structural properties, the yarn's cross-section has elliptical and circular shapes during the movement of the yarn in the fabric. These factors influence the fabric assistance phenomenon to a significant extent. The area of contact between the warp and weft yarns influences the friction developed during tensile loading, which depends on the extent of flattening of the yarns at cross-over points [33]. 4.3. Fabric Construction More pick density results more fabric assistance because of greater pick density provides more number of gripping points, translating higher strength in fabric [33]. According to Haque [12], fabric assistance increases as the pick density increases. Table 4.1 supports his comments. Table 4.1: Effect of Fabric assistance on individual weft yarn strength [Force required to break the specimen (N)] [12]

As per Malik et al. [18], warp yarn strength and ends per 25 mm are expected to be the most dominant factors influencing fabric strength in warp direction while weft yarn strength and picks per 25 mm are most vital in weft direction. When weft is inserted, such relative movement is restricted to a greater or lesser extent and there is tendency for excessive stretching in any part of one thread. Thus, denser the fabric structure less is the freedom of movement as between adjacent threads and the greater is the reinforcement given to the weak places. Hence there is an increased delay in breakdown and a consequent increase in fabric strength [23]. Moon H. Seo et al. [34] have thoroughly focused on the failure mechanism of high and low density plain weave fabrics. First of all, they have observed the fibre ends of isolated yarn failures during warp loading which shows high lateral deformation, indicating the presence of high lateral pressures at yarn cross points. They have concluded that when fabric density is high enough to create jamming of the cross yarn; yarn failure is initiated at the bending point where the highest local fibre strain September - October 2014

TESTING will occur. In contrast, for low density fabric, the yarn failure mechanism is comparable to yarn failure out of fabric, with some additional external pressure. Figure 4.1 below elaborates the fact.

lengths between yarn cross over or the non-uniform stressing of fibres at the yarn cross over, or a combination of both. But Kumpikaite [16] has investigated that in case of plain weave, as the weft setting increases, the fabric's breaking force decreases (as shown in Figure 4.2). He has given the reason that with a larger weft setting, the threads squirm more, and during the stretching they are apt to straighten. The resulting coefficient of determination is average, but for other weaves, it ranges from 0.6 to 0.9.

Figure 4.1(a-c): Schematics of Plain weave fabric in uniaxial tension. (d) Force balance in a plain weave fabric [34]

Devsrakondn and Pope [8] have studied the cloth assistance factors in warp and filling against picks per inch and ends per inch, respectively. They have concluded that the cloth assistance factor initially increases as the number of threads per inch increases in the direction opposite to the direction of stress. However, after reaching a limit, further increase in threads per inch results in reduction of the cloth assistance factor. The reduction in the cloth assistance factor after an initial increase is due to either the differential fibre September - October 2014

Figure 4.2: The dependence of breaking force F of plain weave fabric on the weft setting of woven fabric Sample [16]

Mukhopadhay & Neogi [25] have thoroughly studied the effects of count and pick density of the weft yarns on warp and weft way fabric assistance of plain jute fabrics. According to them, while the weft way fabric assistance has always been found to be positive, the warp way fabric assistance is positive when the warp way strengths of the fabrics are compared against the strength of the constituent warp yarns after removing the weft yarns from the woven structure. 4.4. Weave Design Tensile strength is defined as a maximum load that a test specimen will endure when subjected to uniaxial tensile loading [32]. It is observed that an average plain weave gives higher fabric strength per thread as compared to twill weave [4]. The strength of plain weave warp and weft-wise is found greater than that of twill weave. This may be due to the difference of interlacement which changes the contact area between warp and weft. The contact 183

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As per Hari & Shankaranarayanan [13], with increase in picks per inch, the fabric tenacity increases in the warp direction but decreases in the weft direction. N. A. Kotb [14] says that fabrics produced of higher density of picks have the higher values of stress in fabric directions and density of warp ends also has a positive effect on fabric breaking strength. Mithat Zeydan [40] also has similar type of views. According to him, warp density has been found to be the most important factor affecting the fabric strength. He has observed that the optimum fabric strength is determined at warp density of 38 ends/cm with the help of different modelling techniques and experimental results. On the other hand, it has also been observed that the ratio of fabric strength per thread to single yarn strength may drop with increase in pick density. This correlates with the fact that the higher warp crimp values with the increase in pick density is responsible for the reduction in fabric strength in warp direction. This reduction may also be due to the more number of abrasions by reeds and healds [22, 30].

TESTING area of warp and weft in plain weave is greater than twill weave. Due to more contact area between warp and weft in plain weave fabric, more friction between warp and weft is observed which contributes to more resistance to tensile load [20]. On tight and more compact woven structures, the effect of weaves on tensile properties of fabric is more pronounced due to more interaction of threads perpendicular and parallel to the direction of loading as shown in Figure 4.3 below [10].

Figure 4.3: Comparison of breaking force of fabrics in different weaves with weft from single spun yarn (II) and doubled yarn (III) in warp and weft direction [10]

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

But in a certain research, Kumpikaite [16] has observed that as weave factor P1 [21] or weave rigidity changes, the breaking force changes accidentally which means no correlation between these parameters exists. It is shown in Figure 4.4(a).

Figure 4.4(a). The dependence of the breaking force F on the weave factor P1 b) Dependence of breaking force, F on the integrated factor, j of woven fabric structure: - weaves, whose floats are evenly distributed within the whole area of the woven fabric; â&#x2014;&#x2020; - transversal weaves; the dotted line shows the average of values of the breaking force, weave factor P1 and integrated factor j [16]

4.5. Yarn Crimp in Fabric Yarn crimp in woven fabric is an important parameter which affects most of its physical properties .The crimp is dependent on many factors such as yarn bulk and bending stiffness, yarn packing density, fabric design and construction as well as the level of tensions ap184

plied in weaving and finishing [22]. Kothari & Chitale [15] while investigating tensile properties of single & two plied cotton yarn woven fabric found that fabric assistance & hence strength has an inverse relationship with crimp. As the warp crimp increases with increase in pick density, the warp way fabric strength decreases. On the other hand, according to N. A. Kotb [14], the higher ratio of crimp in warp yarns leads to increasing stress in weft direction whereas the ratio of crimp of weft yarns has a negative effect on stress in warp direction Morton [23] has given the explanation for the fall in strength of high density fabrics with highly crimped longitudinal threads which are unable to straighten out on the application of load, in the angle which these threads make with the plane of the fabric at every intersection. He has stated that greater the angle, the lower the force the yarn can transmit in that plane, this can however, account for only about 20% loss in the fabric strength. 4.6. Overall Fabric Structure Kumpikait? [16] has concluded that there is no correlation between the woven fabric's breaking force and the integrated fabric structure factor j. This is shown in Figure 4.4(b). Though there is no linear or non-linear trend is found in the graph, yet there is a strong dependency of fabric tensile strength on the factor j. Here also fabric assistance factor has a significant role to play. The integrated fabric structure factor j is given by MilaĹĄius' [21] as (equation. v);

where, T1 - the warp linear density, T2 - the weft linear density, Tav - the average woven fabric thread linear density, P1 - MilaĹĄius' weave factor, r - the raw material density, S1 - the woven fabric warp setting, S2 the woven fabric weft setting. 4.7. Air Permeability Air permeability is an important property of the fabric. By increasing the air permeability of the fabric, its strength is reduced as shown in Figure 4.5 below. Some reasons can be given for this phenomenon. Firstly, the distance between yarns increases, and the number of yarns which endure the load force decreases. Secondly, the compactness of yarn, their contact with each September - October 2014

TESTING other and, hence, their crossing-over points decreases. So, fabric assistance factor due to cross yarns decreases for the yarns under load. Thus, the sample strength is reduced [9].

between adjacent yarns and yarn to yarn frictional forces decreases in fabric Table 4.2: Effect of conventional and nano-emulsion of silicone on some physical properties of fabric

Figure 4.5: Relationship between the air permeability and strength of samples [9]

5. Fabric Assistance of Heavy Fabrics Practically, in highly dense structures like the heavy canvas, fabric assistance has high negative effect on fabric tensile strengths in one or the other direction. So premature breaking of a specimen of a closely-woven fabric must be expected as a result of the unequal removal of the crimp in the longitudinal threads, incident to the application of load, as well as the constraint introduced in the threads at the proximity of the jaws of the testing machine. As a result, the central threads reach their breaking point first and the specimen breaks because of the failure of the central threads, and thereafter the tear extends to the sides of the specimen without further increase in the breaking load registered on the dial [39].

Chattopadhyay and Vyas [7] have observed that silicone nano-emulsion softener treatment reduces the cotton fabric breaking strength more than silicone conventional softener as per Table 4.2. Nano emulsion, due to its better penetrability and higher surface area coverage, reduces the friction between the fibres in a yarn and between the yarns within the woven fabric to a higher extent. These, in turn, affect the binding of threads in fabric i.e. fabric assistance much more than in case of conventional emulsion. Hence, there is more reduction in load bearing capacity of fabric. Also, Sunita [17], in her experimental work, has observed that tensile strength of both rib and basket weave organic cotton fabrics decreases after enzyme and softener treatment. This may be due to the fact that yarns become finer on application of special finishes resulting into less flattening of yarn cross-section at cross-over points. The yarn to yarn binding area reduces and so the binding effect. Also cohesive forces September - October 2014

Morton [23] has sought the explanation for the fall in strength of high density fabrics with highly crimped longitudinal threads which are unable to straighten out on the application of load, in the angle which these threads make with the plane of the fabric at every intersection. He has stated that greater the angle, the lower the force the yarn can transmit in that plane. However, this can account for only about 20% loss in the fabric strength. 6. Conclusion It cannot be denied that fabric assistance effect and tensile strength of woven fabric are totally interrelated. Tensile strength increases with fabric assistance value and vice versa. Fabric assistance not only depends on yarn characteristics but fabric characteristics have also a strong influence on it. Blended ring spun yarns, different raw materials yarn (warp and weft), air-jet, rotor spun & OE-friction spun yarns have a significant effect whereas compact yarns have a little effect on fabric assistance value. Considering other yarn characteristics, the assistance factor gets influenced positively by rough yarn surface, number of filaments in yarn (as seen in case of polyester fabric), yarn twist factor and use of single yarn in fabric (instead of double yarn). Increase of filling yarn count has a negative effect on fabric assistance. Among the fabric characteristics, fabric geometry as influenced by fabric construction and weave is the most important factor affecting the assistance phenomenon. Friction during tensile loading on fabric depends on yarn flattening at 185

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4.8. Fabric Finish By applying crease resistant finish on 100% cotton plain fabrics, breaking strength can be lowered by about 25%. The fact is that, crease resistant finish limit the movement of fibre elements in yarns. Fibre to fibre friction in a yarn as well as the yarn to yarn friction between adjacent yarns and cross yarns in fabric decreases affecting the fabric assistance factor. Hence a significant loss in fabric breaking strength is observed. [6].

TESTING cross-over points which influence assistance mechanism. It has also been observed that integrated fabric structure factor j and weave factor P1 has no defined relationship with assistance but has a strong dependency. Different finishing treatments on fabric diminish the fabric assistance factor mainly due to decrease in friction between fibres or yarns. In case of heavy fabrics with highly crimped threads, the effect of fabric assistance fail to improve its tensile strength due to unequal removal of crimp in threads under load and lower force transmission by those threads in the plane of fabric. Fabric assistance mainly concerns with binding of crossover threads and their interaction behaviour in fabric.

19.

20.

21. 22. 23.

This review paper will definitely guide to have an idea of the tensile behaviour of different kinds of woven fabric by predicting their fabric assistance effect from different yarn and fabric characteristics.

24.

References

27.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

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18.

11. 12.

13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 186

. Adomaitienee A., Lazarevieiute L. and Kumpikaite E., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 19 (3(86)), 44, (2011). AL-ansary M.A.R., Life Science Journal, 9 (3), 79, (2012). Almetwally A.A. and Salem M.M., Autex Research Journal, 10(1) (3), 35, (2010). Ananthan T.V. and Kulkarni M.G., Second Conference SITRA, 104, (1970). Booth J.E., Principles of Textile Testing, CBS Publishers & Distributors, New Delhi, 433, (1996). Can Y., Akaydin M., Turhan Y. and Ay E., Indian Journal Of Fibre & Textile Research, 34 (6), 183, (2009). Chattopadhyay D.P. and Vyas D.D., Indian Journal Of Fibre & Textile Research, 35 (3), 68, (2010). Devsrakondn V.K. & Pope C.J., http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/ tr/fulltext/u2/726919.pdf, (8), (1970). Fatahi I. and Yazdi A.A., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18 (6(83)), 68, (2010). Gabrijeleic H., cernoša E. and Dimitrovski K., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16, 2(67) (4/6), 45, (2008). Gu H., Textile Research Journal, 54 (11), 736, (1984). Haque M.M., Daffodil International University Journal of Science and Technology, 4(2) (7), 62, (2009). Hari P.K. and Shankaranarayanan, Indian Journal Of Textile Research, 9 (9), 85, (1984). Kotb N.A., Journal of Basic and Applied Scientific Research, 2 (1), 20, (2012). Kothari V.K. and Chitale A., Indian Journal Of Fibre & Textile Research, 28 (1), 29, (2003). Kumpikaite E., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15 1(60) (1/3), 35, (2007). Kurlageri S.D., http://etd.uasd.edu/ft/th9937.pdf, (8), (2009).

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Malik Z. A., Malik M.H., Hussain T. and Arain F.A., Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 6 (4), 46, (2011). Malik Z.A., Malik M.H., Hussain T. and Tanwari A., Indian Journal Of Fibre & Textile Research, 35 (4), 310, (2010). Malik Z. A., Tanwari A. and Sheikh H., Mehran University Research Journal of Engineering & Technology, 30 (1), 23, (2011). Milašius V., The Journal of the Textile Institute, 91 (1(2)), 277, (2000). Mohamed & Lord P.R., Textile Research Journal, 43 (1), 154, (1973). Morton W.E., The Journal of the Textile Institute, 25 (6), P262, (1934). Morton W.E. and Williamson R., The Journal of the Textile Institute, 30 (12), T210, (1939). Mukhopadhyay A. and Neogi S.K., Man-Made Textiles in India, 39 (12), 425, (2011). Omeroglu S. and Ulku S., FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 15 1(60) (1/3), 39, (2007). Ozgen B. and Gong H., Textile Research Journal, 81 (15), 1523, (2011). Pan N., Composites Science and Technology, 56 (1), 311, (1996). Potluri P. and Thammandra V.S., Composite Structures, 77 (2), 405, (2007). Ravindranathan A.V. and Balasubramanian N., Textile Research Journal, 48 (7), 389, (1978). Realff M.L., Textile Research Journal, 64 (3), 135, (1994). Realff M.L., Boyce M.C. and Backer S., Textile Research Journal, 67 (6), 445, (1997). Rengasamy R.S., Ishtiaque S.M., Das B.R. and Ghosh A., Indian Journal Of Fibre & Textile Research, 33 (4), 377, (2008). Seo M.H., Realff M.L., Boyce M.C., Pan N., Schwartz P. and Backer S., Textile Research Journal, 63 (3), 123, (1993). Seo M.H., Realff M.L., Boyce M.C., Schwartz P. and Backer S., Textile Research Journal, 61(9), 517, (1991). Sherburn,http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/ download?doi=10.1.1.131.5234&rep=rep1&ty pe=pdf, (2007). Taylor H.M., The Journal Of The Textile Institute, 50 (1), T161, (1959). Turan R.B. and Okur A., Textile Research Journal, 82 (7), 719, (2012). Turner A.J., The Journal Of The Textile Institute, 19 (7), T286, (1928). Zeydan M., Woven Fabric Engineering, Polona Dobnik Dubrovski (Ed.), Sciyo, Croatia, 155, (2010).

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TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Performance Evaluation of a Pressure Relieving Mattress in Reducing Pressure Ulcer Incidence P. Kandhavadivu, R. Rathinamoorthy* & R. Surjit Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology Abstract The mattresses provided in most of the hospitals in India are made of hard polyurethane foam, covered by waterproof coated fabrics, over which a simple single-layered cotton bedspread is used, which makes the patient highly uncomfortable due to the heat generated and strain on the contact areas. To overcome the above said problem, a pressure relieving mattress was developed along with multilayered functional bed cover to reduce the magnitude, direction and/or duration of pressure and temperature, thereby avoiding excessive tissue distortion on vulnerable parts of the body. The interface pressure and temperature between body and the mattress were measured and analyzed using the parameters such as Deformation Index and Pressure gradient. The pressure relieving mattress reduces the interface pressure by 30% to 60%, and reduces the heat generated by around 3째 C. Hence the new mattress developed along with the cover sheet reduces the chance for pressure ulcer formation and improves the comfort of the patients. Key words Polyurethane foam, Pressure relieving mattress, Interface pressure, Interface temperature, Pressure ulcer

The dependency ratio is also in an ever increasing mode in India. Rowan H Harwood et al., estimated that by 2050, 113 million people out of total population of 1572 million people in India would need assistance * All correspondence should be addressed to, R.Rathinamoorthy, Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641004, Tamil Nadu, India Email: r.rathinamoorthy@gmail.com September - October 2014

in their daily needs compared to 64 million out of 1164 million in 2010 with dependency ratio increasing from 8.8 % in 2010 to 12.1% in 2050 [4]. It is expected that around 10 million Indians above the age of 65 will suffer from Dementia which is the highest disability,in 2020 and it will rise to 22 million by 2040. The most staggering statistic as per World Alzheimer report, 2009 is that 60% of people suffering from dementia in 2010 will be from low and middle income countries like India, and it will rise to 70.5% by 2050 [5]. Research studies show a prevalence of pressure ulcers in 11% of the hospitalized population and in 20 % of nursing home residents at any given time[6], For patients in nursing homes, the prevalence of pressure sores ranges from 7 to 35 %[7], resulting in a four-fold increase in mortality [8]. In spinal cord injured patients, pressure ulcer incidence is as high as 42 to 85 % in some centers [9]. Many types of pressure relieving support surfaces are available such as water beds, and Australian medical sheepskin made of high quality wool etc. To overcome the problems faced by the patients and to fulfill the basic comfort requirements of an immobile patient, an attempt has been made to develop a pressure relieving mattress with air circulation device and 187

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1. Introduction UN defines a country as 'ageing' where the proportion of people over the age of 60 reaches 7%. In India, by 2003 the percentage of population above 60+ reached 7.2% and it is expected to reach 12.6% in 2025 [1]. By 2021, roughly 137 million people will be above the age group of 60 in India. Life expectancy has also increased from 24.8% in 1961 to 31.6% in 2001 [2] for the age of 60 and is expected to keep increasing due to advancements in the medical field. In 2050 every fifth Indian is going to be elderly and that is going to pose serious questions for the health care department to provide adequate facilities for the elderly [3]. This is not only going to prevail in India as most of the European and North American countries are going to face an identical situation.

TECHNICAL TEXTILES a multilayered bed cover sheet which is engineered for the required elongation, breathability and moisture management properties, so that it supplements the performance of the mattress. 2. Methodology The basic concept used in the design of pressure relieving support surfaces is to increase the immersion and envelope of the support surface so that pressure is distributed to more area. Material selection was carried out to ensure higher resiliency and flexibility in the mattress. 2.1 Development of Mattress with Air circulation device A mattress was developed using soft polyurethane foam with thickness of 10 cm, provided with horizontal and vertical drill holes connected to an air circulation device to give enough air circulation through the mattress. Vertical and horizontal holes were drilled to enhance air circulation inside the foam mattress. Slots were cut on the surface of the foam to accommodate a continuous air tube and the air tube was provided with small drill holes on its surface, through which mild air circulation is maintained throughout the length and width of the mattress as shown in the Figure 2.1.

2.2 Design features of Mattress cover material The design features of the cover material warrants sufficient elastic property which plays an important role in the ability of the mattress to deform and envelope around the body. For example, a fluid filled support surface, such as a water bed, would not envelop as water does, because the membrane cover containing the water does not have enough elastic properties. A mattress cover under high tension (over stretched or very tight bed covers) may cause locally high peak pressures. Hence the mattress cover material is an important element of the support surface, which affects the loading in the plane of the skin and the micro climate at the interface between subject and the mattress. The choice of cover material significantly influences these factors. Relatively inelastic covers tend to produce high interface stresses and shear at the skin surface leading to pressure ulcer formation. Cover material with relatively homogeneous elastic properties, For example, two way stretch can be used to minimize the stretching effect. Hence, lyocell knitted fabric which is capable of stretching in both length and width wise directions is selected as the cover material for the mattress.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3 Testing Procedure The performance of mattress with knitted cover sheet was analyzed for the interface pressure, temperature and comfort characteristics by subjective and objective analysis. The interface pressure between body and mattress was measured using a new pressure measurement system with self-inflatable balloon, Kikuhime, (TT Medi Trade, Soleddet 15, DK 4180 Soro). The interface temperature between the body and mattress was measured using a LM35 series precision integrated circuit temperature true sensor whose output voltage is linearly proportional to the Celsius temperature [10]. Figure 2.1: Pressure relieving mattress with air circulating tube

Both the ends of air tubes are connected to an air circulating device which has two outlets, one for air outlet and another for air suction. This foam part of the mattress acts as the firm bottom support for the mattress, over which needle punched nonwoven fiber web made of hollow polyester fiber is laid one over the other for a thickness of about 20 cm. The foam and fiber filled mattress were covered by means of a knitted fabric cover, made of lyocellfibreand micro encapsulated with phase changing material. 188

3. Results and Discussion The performance of the pressure relieving mattress and the cover material developed were analyzed by measuring the interface pressure, temperature, pressure gradient and deformation index. 3.1 Interface Temperature between body and the mattress The interface temperature between body and the mattress was measured using the temperature measuring instrument LM35.When a patient lies for a long duration on the bed, unbearable heat is generated in the contact areas. This excessive heat creates restSeptember - October 2014

TECHNICAL TEXTILES lessness in patients. The raise in temperature is measured on the patient's body while lying on normal hospital bed and on the newly developed mattress after every 10 min. The room temperature was 310C and the initial body temperature was 32.50C. The temperature showed an increasing trend up to 40 min and then the changes reduced considerably. Hence the measurements were taken after 40 min of lying on the bed. After 40 min, the temperature was raised to 35.60C in the case of hospital mattress whereas, 33.20C in mattress developed without air circulation device and 31.80C in mattress developed with air circulation device. The pressure reducing mattress with air circulation system reduces the heat generated in between the body and the top surface of the mattress. The air circulation device pumps air in, through one nozzle and the air is sucked out through the other nozzle. Air leaks out through the small drill holes and ensures mild air circulation throughout the mattress, which reduces the heat generated in the body. Presence of dead air acts as thermal insulator and causes rise in temperature whereas

moving air assists in conducting the heat away through the circulated air. Hence the mattress developed reduces the interface temperature and confirms the efficiency of the mattress in ensuring comfort to the patient. 3.2 Interface pressure between body and the mattress One method of evaluating the weight of the body being transferred to the mattress surface is through the use of interface pressure (IP) measurements with Kikuhime pressure sensors. IP is a measure of the sum of forces being transmitted between the body and the mattress over the area of the pressure sensor. The interface pressure developed between body and the mattress is measured on people with different weight range and the pressure developed is recorded in Table 3.1 for both standard hospital mattress and the pressure reducing mattress developed. From the interface pressure measurement on the hospital mattress and the novel mattress developed, it can

Body weight 45 Kg

Body weight 52 Kg

Body weight 60 Kg

Body weight 71 Kg

Bodyweight 91 Kg

Head

Top Shoulder

Shoulder blade 15

Mid back

Hip

Buttocks

Thigh

Knee

Calf

Heel

Elbow

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

% Reduction in pressure

Developed mattress

Hospital mattress

% Reduction in pressure

Developed mattress

Hospital mattress

% Reduction in pressure

Developed mattress

Hospital mattress

% Reduction in pressure

Developed mattress

Hospital mattress

Developed mattress

Hospital mattress

Body Parts

% Reduction in pressure

Table 3.1:Interface pressure between body and mattress

189

TECHNICAL TEXTILES be observed that pressure developed on the body in hospital mattress is more than 33 mm Hg in certain areas of the body like head, mid back, hip, buttocks and heel. As the body weight increases, the interface pressure also increases proportionately. The interface pressure is reduced drastically in the case of the novel mattress developed. The reduction in pressure ranges from 30% to 66%. This reduction in pressure is due to the highly soft nature of the hollow fiber filled part of the mattress which deforms to fit to the shape of the body, thereby increasing the area of contact between the body and the mattress, leading to pressure distribution to more area. The terminologies used to explain these phenomena are 'Immersion' and 'Envelopment' [11, 12, and 13]. Immersion allows pressure concentrated beneath a bone to spread over the surrounding tissue. By increasing immersion, the potential for pressure reduction increases as the body weight is shifted to areas around other bony prominences. Envelopment describes ability of support surface to deform around irregularities on the surface, without causing a substantial increase in pressure. Due to higher envelopment and immersion of the soft mattress, body weight is distributed to more area and the interface pressure is reduced to a great extent.

Peak pressure-Average Pressure Deformation Index =

â&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;Ś.. (1) Average Pressure

The Deformation Index for the above mentioned five different weight ranges are given in the Table 3.2. Lower deformation index value implies that the strain on the body is minimum, whereas higher deformation index indicates more strain on the body parts. The deviation of peak pressure from average pressure for the hospital mattress is high and the deformation index is around 1.6 which shows that the peak pressure is 2 to 3 times more than that of average pressure whereas in the pressure relieving mattress developed, the deformation index ranges from 0.95 to 1.28 which is much lower than that of the hospital mattress. From the reduction in the deformation index, it can be ascertained that the strain on the body and skin is reduced considerably in the mattress developed. The mattress developed gives an appreciable reduction of 23% to 33% in the deformation index.

Table3.2: Deformation index of the body

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Body Weight

Pressure developed in Hospital mattress

Pressure developed in the developed mattress

Total Pressure

Average Peak Pressure Pressure

Deformation Index Total Pressure

268

24.36

1.66

267

24.27

290

26.36

293

324

Peak Pressure

152

1.28

1.59

165

1.06

1.39

170

15.45

0.94

26.64

1.59

163

14.81

1.23

29.45

1.14

186

16.90

0.95

3.3 Measurement of Deformation Index Unevenly distributed weight rather than maximum or peak interface pressure, is the main causative factor for pressure development. This concept is also supported by the experience of sea divers, who appear not to suffer from tissue damage because the higher hydrostatic pressure is applied evenly all over the body. Therefore, use of an index for pressure differentials or tissue deformation across the skin contact area may be a better guideline for support surface selection, particularly as this criterion is related to patient's comfort. The deformation index can be estimated by comparing peak to average pressure. 190

Deformation Index

Average Pressure

3.4 Measurement of Pressure gradient Pressure gradient measurement describes the amount of change in the pressure over a distance (generally over a short distance of less than one inch) from one section of the support surface to another. However, in general, pressure gradients represent a continuum of values over the distance measured. If the pressure across a surface were plotted, the pressure gradient would be the slope of the curve. Figures 3.1 and 3.2 shows the pressure gradient curve at the areas which are prone to skin damage measured on the hospital mattress and pressure relieving mattress developed. September - October 2014

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Figure 3.1: Pressure gradients in Hospital mattress

circulation system reduces the heat generated between the body and the top surface of the mattress by around 3° C and keeps the body comfortable. The deformation index, which is a measure of the difference between the peak and average pressure, is reduced by 23% to 33% in the mattress developed, when compared to the hospital mattress. The commercially available support surfaces are costlier and are not affordable to lower income people of India, where as this mattress with air circulation device and air permeable water impermeable cover costs about only Rs.6000.Hence the new mattress developed along with the cover sheet is very cost effective and may provide comfort to the patients.

1. 2. 3. 4. Figure 3.2: Pressure gradients in Pressure relieving mattress

Steep gradients between applied pressures over adjacent areas of soft tissue give raise to shearing forces, which damages the skin tissues. Measurement of change in pressure over 1 inch gap shows that change in pressure is very gradual with the difference ranging from 1 to 3 mm Hg, where as in hospital mattress, the change in pressure is more than 10 mm Hg which causes more shear force on the skin. The pressure gradient curve also indicates the amount of shear force experienced by the skin. The immersion created in the pressure relieving mattress and the knitted cover fabric leads to gradual reduction in pressure and hence the shear force on the skin is reduced. 4. Conclusion In this research, the interface pressure measurement on the hospital mattress developed observes that the reduction in pressure ranges from 30% to more than 60%. This reduction in pressure is due to the highly soft nature of the hollow fiber filled part of the mattress which deforms to fit to the shape of the body, thereby increasing the area of contact between the body and the mattress leading to pressure distribution to more area.The pressure relieving mattress with air September - October 2014

5. 6. 7. 8.

9. 10. 11. 12.

13.

Indira Jai Prakash, Ageing in India, World health Organisation, Geneva, (1999). Chanana H.B and Talwar P.P.,Asia -Pacific population journal,2(3), 24 (1987). http://esa.un.org/wpp/ Rowan H. Harwood, AvanAihieSayer and Miriam Hirschfield, Bulletinof the World Health Organisation, 82, 251 (2004). Anon, Alzheimer's disease International, (2009). Sanders S.L.,J Am Acad Nurse Prac,4(2) 63, (1992). Allman R.M, Laprade C.A and Noel L.B.,Ann Intern Med,4(2), 337, (1986). Norton D, McLaren R and Exton-Smith A.N.,EdinburghChurchill Livingstone,193, (1975). Richards J.S.,Sci Dig, 3, 22, (1981). Kandhavadivu P.Indian Journal of Surgery, (2013) ; DOI10.1007/s12262-013- 0930-4. Maklebust J, Mondoux L and Sieggreen M. J. Enterostom Ther.13, 85 (1986). Elizabeth McInnes, Sally EM Bell-Syer, Jo C Dumville, Rosa Legood and Nicky ACullum., Cochrane Database of systematic Reviews,4(3)(2008). David M, Brienza and Mary Jo Geyer.,Advances in Skin andWound care,13(34) 237 (2000). ❑❑❑

Texttreasure One man: I got married because I was tired of cooking, cleaning, washing clothes and utensils. Other man: Amazing, I got divorce for the same. 191

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

References

ENVIRONMENT

Environmental Protection through Green Processing of Wool Amit Sengupta1*, Jagadananda Behera1, Mrinal Choudhari1, A.K. Rakshit2 & V.D. Gotmare2 1 Wool Research Association 2 Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute Abstract Chemical oriented textile wet processing is one of the pollution causing process in the mills contributing to the maximum of the total BOD, COD and TDS load in effluent. Textile manufacturer uses thousands of acutely toxic chemicals, including heavy metals, formaldehyde and aromatic solvent, many of which are classified as hazardous by the World Health Organization (WHO) and have been associated with cancer, birth defects and hormonal and reproductive effects in wildlife and humans. Responding to increasing consumer concerns about health and environment, businessmen are now seeking ways to make products in the most environmentally sensitive way. The processing of textiles should be cost effective and environment-friendly. Innovative and efficient strategies like plasma technology, ultrasonic technology, super critical carbon dioxide, biotechnology, application of enzymes and bio-chemicals, dry scouring process and so on which are needed to achieve these goals. This paper reports various problems in different stages of processing textile materials in wool and woolens and their blends with their 'green solutions', the alternatives by which the problems can be avoided through innovative techniques and various measures of textile cleaner production (CP). This will help in ensuring textile processing as ane co-friendly, cost effective and sustainable business.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Toxic Chemicals, Pollution, Cost effective, Environmentally-friendly, Wool, Green Solutions.

1. Introduction The textile industry, taken as a whole, is among the top ten most polluting industries in the world and the conventional woolen and worsted industry contributes to this from the production of the fleece which may then pass through many toxic chemical processes during the manufacture of the end products. Most conventional woolen products are no longer "natural" having been treated by one or more of the following processes: alkaline baths to remove dirt and grease, acid baths to remove vegetable matter, anti-shrink for machine washing, bleaching, dyeing, moth proofing, and possibly flame proofing; as well as often being blended with manmade fibers. It is difficult to quantify the effects of chemical inputs, but there is growing evidence to show that some of the chemicals used in the treatment of wool are harmful to health and the environment. The Eco Parameters for Cotton, Wool, Manmade fibres & their Blends are given in Table 1.1 [1, 2, 3]. * All correspondence should be addressed to, Amit Sengupta Scientist,Wool Research Association, Thane, Maharashtra (Attached to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) Email: amitsengupta08ijt@gmail.com 192

Table 1.1: Eco Parameters for Cotton, Wool, Manmade fibres & their Blends Parameters

Maximum Limit in mg/kg (ppm) Baby Clothing

Free & Residual Formaldehyde 20

Close to skin

Outer Fabrics

300

Heavy Metals: Mercury

0.1

Cromium III

0.1

Cromium VI

Nil

Lead

Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

0.5

Volatile Hydrocarbons (nonhalogen)

150

Volatile Halogenated organics

200

Pesticides

Banned Pesticides

Nil

pH of aqueous extract

4.1-7.5

Coupled amines released from Azo dyes

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ENVIRONMENT

2. Emerging Techniques Various environmental friendly processes are described below: 2.1. Plasma Technology The plasma technology, a dry and eco-friendly technique, avoids waste water production which is a unique advantage over the wet-chemical processes. This benefit extends into all market areas, where the end product can undergo the plasma enhancement process to provide properties such as adhesion, hydrophilic, liquidrepellent etc. Plasma is a gas containing charged and neutral species like Electrons, positive ions (cations), negative ions (anions), molecules, atoms, (radicals) etc and neutral on average. Plasma consists of a collection of free moving electrons and ions - atoms that have lost electrons. Energy is needed to strip electrons from atoms to make plasma. The energy can be of various origins: thermal, electrical, or light (ultraviolet light or intense visible light from a laser). With insufficient sustaining power, plasmas recombine into neutral gas [6].

September - October 2014

Figure 2.1: Generation of plasma [6]

Figure 2.2: SEM Image of Plasma Treated Wool

Plasma treatment can be applied on woolen textiles to enhance properties like shrink-proof, flame retardancy, improve printability and dye ability, reduce itching propensity of wool fiber etc. C.W. Kan et. al worked on LTP-treatment of wool that showed better performance in the dyeability and anti-felting tendency. It is reported that the surface chemical composition varied with the nature of plasma gases used and also the treatments durations. Experimental results showed that the scale structures on the surface of wool fiber diminished gradually with the increased treatment time. However, the extent of diminishing of scale structures varied with different plasma gases and treatment durations [7]. E. M. ElKhatib et. al studied on the effect of LTP treatment 193

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

So, it is very important to think about new eco-friendly processing methods by using either eco-friendly chemicals like enzymes, natural bio based chemicals, less hazardous chemicals or by using new emerging physical dry process technologies like plasma, ultrasound, super critical fluid, dry scouring etc [4]. There are surface treatment methods that additionally increase the value of textile materials. The methods can be classified as chemical treatment (wet) methods and physical treatment (dry) methods. Chemical treatment methods are most often used in actual practice. Because of the large amount of energy involved and the high consumption of water and consequently increase of pollution, these techniques are costly and not ecofriendly. In addition, these processes treat the fabric in bulk, something which is unnecessary and may adversely affect overall product performance. Problems related to toxicity and other health hazards have resulted in the replacement of chemical processing by more eco-friendly physical methods. The physical treatment processes are dry, which makes it possible to preserve certain properties intrinsic to textile materials; they are likely to affect the surface of the materials. Therefore the researchers are extensively studying the possibilities of physical surface treatments as alternatives to the chemical treatments [5].

ENVIRONMENT generated by a dielectric barrier discharge technique (DBD) under atmospheric pressure by using three different gases; oxygen, nitrogen and air, on the properties of wool/polyester blend. The induced changes in wool/polyester blend properties, such as whiteness index, wettability, surface roughness, tensile strength, elongation %, surface morphology, dyeability and fastness properties were investigated. These changes were found to be dependent on the plasma treatment conditions, such as the gas used, discharge power and exposure time. It is reported that the LTP treatments enhance the dyeing ability of the fibers with acid, basic and disperse dyestuffs as well as the fastness properties, and represent an approach to dyeing the blend in one bath [8].

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Wool Research Association, India has been carried out many R & D work like- development of itch-free woolens to be worn next to the skin, Enhancement of flame retardancy & soil repellency of wool through plasma technology. WRA also working on super wash property to Indian wool & products through eco-friendly, non-corrosive technique using plasma technology, enzyme technology & natural biopolymers and also on surface topographical finishing of Indian wools & their products (like carpets, woven & knitted fabrics) for imparting multiple functional properties by utilizing nanoclay & ceramic inorganic powders with ultrasonic and plasma technology [4]. 2.2. Laser Technology Another physical surface treatment method is laser treatment. Laser treatment is one of the technologies which are able to eliminate all the adverse effects on the environment caused bychemical treatment commonly used in textile finishing. Shirin Nourbakhsh et. al worked on the use of laser treatment for wool felting shrinkage control, and compared its effectiveness with that of the traditional chlorination treatment method. The wool fabric was exposed to an industrial laser at two different power levels and two sweep speeds and reported that upon selecting the appropriate treatment parameters; the laser treatment was effective in reducing felting shrinkage of woolfiber by its etching effects on the scales of the wool fiber. Too high energyexposure of the wool fiber by laser radiation causes excessive fabric strength loss. It is also found that the laser-treated wool has felting shrinkage reduction similar to that treated using the traditional chlorination procedure [9]. Ion Sandu et. al worked on surface modifications of 194

wool fabrics by UV Excimer Laser Irradiation treatment and reported that the surface oxidation level of fibers and woven material were increased by the UV laser treatment, by a factor of approximately two, the precise level being dependent upon exposure time and the water wetting time of woven material is an inverse function of treatment time [10]. 2.3. Super Critical Fluid assisted textile processing Any gas that is above its critical temperature is able to retain the free mobility of gaseous state but if pressure is increased its density will tend to increase towards liquid. Such highly compressed gases are supercritical fluids and that is the reason they are able to combine properties of both liquid and gas [11]. CO2 is one of them which have advantage of high diffusivity and low viscosity that allow the dye to diffuse faster towards and into the textile fibers. This results in a faster dyeing process. The application of supercritical carbon dioxide (ScCO2) in the textile industry has recently become an alternative technology for developing a more environmentally friendly coloration process. ScCO2 coloration technology has the potential to overcome several environmental and technical issues in many commercial textile applications such as yarn preparation, coloration and finishing. In conventional textile dyeing large quantities of wastewater are produced. This environmental and economical burden is avoided when supercritical carbon dioxide is used as dyeing medium instead of water. Separating residual dye from the CO2 and recycling of CO2 are easy. Energy is saved because textiles do not need to be dried after the dyeing process.. Super critical dyeing has also few limitations such as dyeing of multiple packages in the same bath is not possible and there is a little data available for dyestuff solubility in ScCO2 [12-14].

Figure 2.3: Phase diagram of super critical fluid September - October 2014

ENVIRONMENT collapse at the surface of the solid substrate (e.g. textile fiber), they generate powerful shock waves which remove the contaminants adhered to the substrate. Ultrasound has been successfully used to accelerate various chemical processes and is industrially used for precision cleaning of automotive parts, medical tools such as syringes etc. In textiles, ultrasound has successfully demonstrated its usefulness in processes such as bleaching, dyeing, washing, etc for saving in time and temperature [4, 18].

Huawu Liu et. al worked on Mixed Reactive Disperse Dyes on Wool Yarn Dyeing in Supercritical CO2 and reported thatthe total uptake of mixed reactive disperse dyes and the uptake of single reactive disperse dyes increase with the increasing of temperature and pressure, it also increase by the extension of time. In the same conditions, the total uptake of mixed reactive disperse dyes is more than the uptake of single reactive disperse dyes [15]. Bilgehan Guzel et. al worked on dyeing of wool with mordant dyes with different mordanting metal ions, Cr (III), Al (III), Fe (II), Cu (II) and Sn (II) by supercritical processing which showed excellent wash fastness properties [16]. Yuan Li Huang et. al worked on dyeing of wool skeins with reactive disperse bright-red KR-2B in supercritical CO2 dyeing equipment and reported that the global dye structure divide and the dyestuffs have good fixation on the wool skeins [17]. 2.4. Ultrasonic assisted wet processing Ultrasound is the sound with frequencies above 18 KHz which is above the limits of human audibility. Ultrasonic energy offers many potential advantages such as energy savings, and reduced processing times, environmental improvements, process enhancement and lower overall processing costs. Ultrasound appears to be a very promising alternative technique to provide a far more efficient stirring or mixing mechanism for the immediate border layer of liquid at fiber surface. Generally, sonication of liquids causes two primary effects, namely; cavitations and heating. As the ultrasound passes through a liquid, it produces compression and rarefaction regions in it. During the rarefaction phase, the liquid is literally torn apart, creating millions of microscopic cavity bubbles in it. When these bubbles September - October 2014

Figure 2.5: Lab model ultrasonic wool scouring machine developed by WRA 195

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 2.4: Phase diagram for Carbon dioxide

Ultrasound can be used to scour the wool fibres with substantial savings in scouring temperature, time, concentration of alkali and detergent. It is also evident that scouring of coarser wool is much easier than medium or finer varieties which may be due to lesser initial grease content in their raw form. It may also be due to the fact that the total surface area to be cleaned in case of coarser wool fibres is much lesser as compared to finer fibres. The scouring of wool in presence of ultrasonic irradiation helped to scour the fibres more efficiently without any visible entanglement of fibres. The ultrasonic energy created compression and rarefaction waves in the liquid medium. During the rarefaction phase of the wave, the liquid molecules are stretched apart, creating an area of low density. This gives rise to formation of millions of microscopic bubbles (cavitations) which implode as the compression (high density) wave reaches towards them. These implosions liberate vast amount of energy in the form of micro-jets (micro streaming) of liquid. When these micro-jets collide with the wool fibre surface, they take away even the tightly bound impurities from the fibres. This mechanical energy of imploding cavities creates a micro-brushing sort of an action and accelerates the cleaning action of chemicals like detergent and alkali. Thus, ultrasound accelerates the scouring process.WRA has developed laboratory model four bowl ultrasonic bath for wool scouring (See Figure 2.5) [4, 19].

ENVIRONMENT Conventionally, wool was scoured in aqueous condition in five baths using a combination of detergent and alkali like sodium carbonate. A study was carried out in Wool Research Association by Kadametalto study the efficacy of ultrasound in wool scouring by modifying the recipe. In the modified recipe (MR), alkali, detergent, time and temperature were reduced by 25% to that of conventional recipe. Five different scouring experiments with modified recipe were conducted, namely ultrasound to alkali bath (US-A), ultrasound to detergent baths (US-B), ultrasound to rinsing baths (USC), ultrasound to alkali and detergent baths (US-D) and ultrasound to all baths (US-E) [20]. The ultrasound treatment was given only to specific baths at a time and its intensity is progressively increased. The micro agitation occurring in the vicinity of the cavitation bubble effectively wets out the fibre surface and helps to displace particulate contaminants and grease. Fibre surface is wiped out by micro-brushing action of ultrasonic waves and effectively cleans the fibre surface. It is also observed that ultrasound treatment for all five baths of scouring was among the lowest residual grease content as shown in Table-2.1. It leads to derive the fact that the grease removal efficiency will increase, as the number of times this micro-agitation increases. When the high pressure bubble implodes near a hard surface, it changes its size into a jet about one-tenth the bubble size. Because of the inherently small size of the jet and the relatively large energy, ultrasonic cleaning has the ability to reach into small crevices and remove entrapped particles effectively. Table 2.1: Residual grease content of different scouring methods [20]

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sample

Residual grease content (%)

Raw wool (before scouring)

11.68

Conventional scouring recipe

0.93

Modified scouring recipe

1.33

Ultra Sound-A

1.18

Ultra Sound -B

1.13

Ultra Sound -C

1.2

Ultra Sound -D

1.11

Ultra Sound -E

0.96

Chris Hurren et. al stated that Ultrasonic agitation significantly improves the removal of grease from the wool fibre. Lower detergent concentrations could be used with ultrasonic agitation and still achieve the same 196

level of scouring as conventional scouring. Lower scouring temperatures of 500C were feasible with ultrasonic agitation for 22 micron fibres. Ultrasonic agitation produced virtually no fibre entanglement during scouring. The fibre surface was modified by ultrasonic agitation causing moderate cracking of the fibre cuticle. The fibre cracking increased the rate of pre-metalised dye pick up at 400C [21]. Qing Li et. al reported that the protein structures of wool, treated in fabric form with ultrasonics for different time durations, were analyzed in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. It is reported that while the ultrasonic treatment had little effect on the fiber crystallinity, some chemical structures in the protein were altered to some extent during the process. Disruption of fiber internal waxy lipids upon ultrasonic treatment provided the fibers with increased water absorption, increased tenacity and a reduced extensibility to the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility [22]. 2.5. Dry scouring Raw wool, after being removed from sheep, is called "greasy wool" or "fleece wool" and it contains large amounts of dirt, vegetable matter, suint and wool wax. Hence the first process of preparing wool involves the removal of these contaminants and this process is termed 'scouring'. In traditional wool scouring, the contaminants on the wool are washed from the wool fiber using water, alkali and detergents. The traditional methods of wool scouring involve extensive processing, the addition of alkali and detergents, and the use of large amounts of water. Apart from these, there is a problem of disposing of the waste water without unduly contaminating the environment. The problem of disposal involves further expense and, with stricter environmental emission controls, requires some form of treatment prior to release into the environment. The dry scouring is a method for scouring wool in a dry medium using fine powders of grease adsorbing materials that involves an efficient means of producing clean wool in a very eco-friendly manner with minimum or no water. When such fine powder of clay is sprayed and mixed with raw greasy wool, and subjected to heat, the grease or wool wax will melt. Along with grease, suint and other impurities will also get removed and get adsorbed over the fine powder of clay. The grease laden clay can then be removed by simple mechanical processes such as shakSeptember - October 2014

ENVIRONMENT

H. G-McBride reported that gypsum can be used for breaking the fatty and heavy materials and remove them along with the moisture of greasy wool. The lusture, strength and scales are not affected with this dry process [23]. 2.6. Use of Bio-technology in wool processing The population explosion and the environmental pollution in the recent years have forced researchers to find new health and hygiene related products for the well being of mankind. One of the most negative environment impacts from textile production is the traditional process used to prepare wool fiber, yarn, and fabric. Textiles find immense applications in day to day life and there has been a growing need to develop finishes for textile materials that can offer improved protection to the users from microbes (bacteria, moulds or fungi), good dimensional stability and better dyeing properties. Wool is natural fibre with a rather complex architecture. The intrinsic wool properties of felting and tendency to shrink are consequences of differential frictional effect of cuticle scales. Owing to increasing environmental legislation, the traditional methods for the shrink-resist treatment of wool, need to be revised because of the high AOX levels produced. This process can be replaced by chitosan (modified biopolymer obtained by deacetylation of chitin) application. Chitosan, which is a very useful non-toxic biopolymer, can be used as an effective antimicrobial finish and can also be used to increase the dye uptake of the fabrics. The chitosan application to wool fabrics before dyeing has two fold effects: One it improves the dye uptake of wool fabrics; the other is that it significantly improves the antimicrobial activity of the dyes. Recently much attention has been given on chitosan as a natural polymer due to its useful properties such as nontoxicity, biodegradability, biocompatibility, antimicrobial activity and chemical reactivity. Synthetic polymers suffer from the limitations of biocompatibility and biodegradability and therefore natural polymers are considered as eco friendly substitute to synthetic polymer [4]. The use of enzymes in the textile industry is an example of white/industrial biotechnology, which allows the development of environmentally friendly technologies in fibre processing and strategies to improve the September - October 2014

final product quality [24]. Anna Kotli?ska1 et. al, reported that enzymatic treatments has a positive influence on the wool fibre properties selected, irrespective of the kind of enzymatic preparation. It was found that there is significant increase in dye sorption values for acid and metal complex dyes and decrease in shrinkage [25]. E. K. Karanikas et. al used two proteolytic enzymes as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool fabrics with acid dyes. The effect of the enzymes on dye exhaustion (%E) and dye uptake (K/S) was studied at 70, 85, and 980C and compared to the corresponding values obtained for the control samples which were dyed without enzymes under the same conditions. Two commercially available dyeing auxiliaries commonly used for the dyeing of wool at low temperatures were also used under the same conditions and compared with the dyeing made with and without enzymes. Treatment with transglutaminase was done in order to compensate the damaging effects of protease. The study shows that the enzymes could be used as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool at lower temperatures [26]. Detergent oriented wool scouring before dyeing and other chemical wet processing of wool are pollution causing processes in the mills contributing to the maximum of the total BOD, COD, TDS load in effluent. Textile manufacturer uses thousands of acutely toxic chemicals, including heavy metals, formaldehyde and aromatic solvent, many of which are classified as hazardous by the World Health Organization (WHO) and have been associated with cancer, birth defects and hormonal and reproductive effects in wildlife and humans. Responding to increasing consumer concerns about health and environment, businesses are now seeking ways to make products in the most environmentally sensitive way. Wool Processing with bio-degradable chemical is expected to change the concept of wool processing from high energy consuming and pollution oriented one to a bio-degradable chemical process with advantages such as reduction in temperature, energy, water and reduction in effluent load etc.WRA has been assessed the performance of a biodegradable chemical in terms of its scouring efficacy and impact on downstream processes such as dyeing and wash off (both at top and yarn form) to enahance the aesthetic properties of Merino apparel. A comparison with conventional scouring and soaping agent were made to ascertain the advantages of the bio-degradable chemical in terms of energy saving, reduction in 197

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ing, dusting, and carding or by rinsing with small amount of water in presence of ultrasound. Recently WRA is working on dry scouring of greasy wool and developing a prototype unit and process methods by using different powder particles of nano-clay [4].

ENVIRONMENT effluent load. The above mentioned R&D work has been funded by Woolmark services India Private Ltd. (Australian Wool Innovation) [27-31]. Wool can be scoured effectively using enzyme rather than harsh chemicals. Enzyme is used effectively in shrink proofing of wool, giving improved quality and significantly reduced effluent costs as opposed to using chemical treatments. Softening of coarse Indian wool can be achieved through Dielectic barrier discharge plasma treatment followed by enzyme, polymer grafting and softener treatment. The treated wool shows considerable luster and soft handle [4].

WRA has been worked on many natural dyeing of woolen carpets by using different herb extracts and also worked on mothproofing of wool by using extracts from neem, Belladona & Custard apple. WRA also worked on application of bio-chemical for wool scouring and soaping before and after dying of wool tops and yarns to enhance the aesthetic property of merino apparels [4].

Eco-friendly wool processing should not be restricted only in textile industry; it should start from wool growing and harvesting stage. So, 'Organic Wool' plays a vital role in the environmental issue. Organic wool is free from harmful toxic pesticides, insecticides that are used to control mange, mites, lice, flies, and toxic chemicals. In order to be organic certified, livestock need to feed on natural vegetation matter with bio fertilizers, cleaning with bio- cleaning agents and natural insecticides. In order for wool to be certified as "organic," it must be produced in accordance with federal standards for organic livestock production. All certification agencies accredited with IFOAM can certify organic wool. International accepted certifying agency is Biogrow from New Zealand. Leading Countries in this fields are US, Canada, New Zealand, Denmark etc [32-37].

Indian hand knotted carpet industry is export oriented. The intrinsic beauty of an oriental carpet improves upon age with maturing of colours and softening of fibers on the pile surface. Advent of synthetic dyes made the colours on a carpet harsh and the chrome colours imported dullness to shades. Consequently, this gave rise to the practice of chemical washing of carpet so as to bleach strong reds to milder rose tones or sober maroon shades with an oriental look. Revival of natural dyes in carpet industry in recent years has the potential of increased export from this country with better value addition. But however, a carpet made from natural colours should not be subjected to the traditional chemical washing treatment using corrosive chemicals like acids, alkalis and bleaching solutions. The natural colours which are soft and soothing to the eyes are also very sensitive to these chemicals; hence it is important to wash carpets in eco-friendly ways to improve the aesthetic and liveliness of the carpet. WRA worked on herbal carpet washing treatment by using noncorrosive chemicals, Proteolytic enzymes etc. En-

3. Conclusion Many chemicals currently used in the woolen and worsted industry adversely influence the environment. Sometimes these chemicals can be substituted by other eco-friendly chemicals and technologies. The main environmental issues associated with textile industry arise from emissions to water. The changing face of environmental legislation is causing serious problems for manyindustries and the woolen and worsted industry is no exception. A new parameter that today increasingly vital is ecology. Therefore, new innovative production techniques are demanded. In this field, the plasma technology, laser treatment and supercritical fluids treatment, dry scouring, enzymatic treatment and application of natural colorants & natural mordants shows distinct advantages because, these are environmentally friendly, and even surface properties of inert materials can be changed easily without changing the bulk property. Though all these above mentioned emerging technologies for eco-friendly processes are restricted at lab scale stage, it is very essential to give more

Plant extract is also used for functional finishes of textile material like anti odor finish, aroma finish, antibacterial, anti microbial, shrink proof of woolen materials. Wool has high affinity towards natural dye. These natural colorants can be derived from different herbs and plants. Different natural mordants like Harda (Myrobolan) can also used for mordanting.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

zymatic pretreatment followed by mild acid /alkali treatment provides good lustre and softness to the carpet. Various natural essential oil extracts e.g. lavender, eucalyptus & citronella oil has been applied for moth proofing of carpet by WRA. It is reported that, these oils not only makes the carpet mothproof but also releases pleasant smell. Chitosan biopolymer also used in that study to impart antimicrobial properties to the carpets and it was found that, these carpets are 100% antimicrobial in nature and even if stored in damp condition for long time it doesn't release foul odor which is a characteristic of bacterial growth [4].

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attention for commercialization of these technologies in which huge support from industries as well as Govt. is required. It is thus expected that in future, many of the physical as well as eco-friendly chemical processes would help in solving the environmental problems as far as wool processing is concerned. References 1.

3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

8. 9. 10.

11.

12. 13. 14.

15.

16. 17.

Eco-Mark Criteria for Textiles, Ministry of Envronment & Forests Notification, Textile Dyer & printer, 2,(1997). The World of Organic Agriculture Statistics and Emerging Trends, International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements, (2005) Eco standard for cotton, wool & manmade fibre blends, Mantra Bulletin, 8, (1997). Source: www.wraindia.com Periyasamy A.P., Eco-Friendly in Textile Wet Processing, slide shares (assessed in April-May 2014) Source: http://www.tikp.co.uk (assessed in AprilMay 2014) Kan C.W.,Surface Morphological Study of Low Temperature Plasma Treated Wool-A Time Dependence Study, Modern Research and Educational Topics in Microscopy (assessed in April-May 2014) El-Khatib E.M., Raslan W.M.., El-Halwagy A.A. & Galab S., RJTA, 17(1),124, (2013) Nourbakhsh S., Fibers and Polymers, 12 (4), 521, (2012) Sandu I., Vrinceanu N., Coman D., 'Study of Surface Modifications of Wool Fabrics by UV Excimer Laser Irradiation Treatment, Researchgate [Source:http://www.researchgate.net/publication/ 256114959_Study_of_Surface_Modifications_ of_Wool_Fabrics_by_UV_Excimer_Laser_ Irradiation_Treatment] (assessed in April-May 2014) Source:http://dyes-pigments.standardcon.com/newdyeing-concepts.html (assessed in April-May 2014) Samanta A. K. & Agarwal P., IJFTR, 34 (Dec.), 384, (2009) Gulrajani M.L. &Gupta D., IJFTR, 36 (11), (2011) Source: http://www.slideshare.net/abiramprince/dyeing-of-textiles-with-super-critical-form (assessed in April-May 2014) Liu H., Yang Y., Shen S., Zhong Z., Zheng L. and Feng P., Advanced Materials Research, 627, 217, (2013) Guzel B., Akgerman A., The Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 18 (3), 247, (2000), Huang Yu. L., Zheng L. J., Du B., Zhao Y.P., Song R. Y., Advanced Materials Research, 531, 227, (2012)

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18. Goud V.S., Ultrasound Assisted Scouring of Raw Wool, National Seminar cum workshop on recent R&D Initiatives and Developmental Schemes of wool and woolens, New Delhi, India (2010). 19. Periyasamy A.P., Indian Textile Journal, (5), (2009). 20. Kadam V. V., Shakyawar D. B. and Goud V. S., IJFTR38, 410, (2013). 21. Hurren C., Zhang, Liu M., Xin and Wang, A study of ultrasonic scouring of greasy Australian wool, In Proceedings of 2006 China International Wool Textile Conference & IWTO Wool Forum, Xi'an and China, 493, (2006). 22. Li Q., Lin T., Wang X., Journal of The Textile Institute, 103 (6), (2012). 23. Source: http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/ 37462385(assessed in April-May 2014) 24. Choudhury A.K.R., Textile preparation and dyeing, Science Publishers,Enfield, NH,145, (2006) 25. Kotlinska A., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 19 (3), 88, (2011). 26. Karanikas E.K., Fibers and Polymers, 14 (2), 223, (2013) 27. Source: www.whoindia.org(assessed in April-May 2014) 28. Source: www.wool.com/(assessed in April-May 2014) 29. Source: http://www.woolmark.com/(assessed in April-May 2014) 30. Source: http://www.chemindustry.com/chemicals/ 0530548.html(assessed in April-May 2014) 31. Source: http://proklean.in/products-solutions/textiles/ (assessed in April-May 2014) 32. Source: www.global-standard.org/(assessed in AprilMay 2014) 33. Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_wool (assessed in April-May 2014) 34. Source: www.ota.com/organic/woolfactsheet.html (assessed in April-May 2014) 35. Source: o-wool.com/(assessed in April-May 2014) 36. Source: The World of Organic Agriculture Statistics and Emerging Trends, International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements, 2005 37. Jain C., Eco friendly and Recyclable Textiles: Current Scenario and Sustainable Uses, Slideshares(assessed in April-May 2014)

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Textsmile Unless your try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow. - Ralph Waldo Emerson. 199

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ENVIRONMENT

TEXPERIENCE

Lessons Learnt by an Accidental Textile Professional

Mr. Rahul Bhajekar Mr. Rahul Bhajekar is a Mechanical Engineer with a M.S. Degree from the Ohio State University, USA, After his Bachelors degree, he worked with Mahindra & Mahindra for one year before relocating to the US for higher studies. After his return from the US, he worked with Indian engineering giant Larsen & Toubro Ltd. for four and a half years. He did a brief assignment in the Muscat, Oman as a product engineer in the automotive sector before joining Texanlab, which is the leading laboratory in the area of Ecological Testing of Textiles. He has been with Texanlab since 1994. He frequently delivers lectures at Seminars and Workshops in subjects of Quality, Ecological Testing and Requirements as well as Improvement of quality standards in the Textile Industry, both in India and abroad. He is a member of two sub-committees of the Bureau of Indian Standards as well as of the Society of Dyers & Colourists, AATCC and ASTM. He has written regularly for technical journals about Quality Control & Testing in the Textile Industry and has co-authored a series of 13 articles on Colourfastness in the monthly technical magazine Colourage and contributed to a chapter in C.N.Sivaramakrishnan's "Anthology of Speciality Chemicals for Textiles", published by Colour Publications.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He is a co-opted managing committee member of the Textile Association of India, Mumbai Unit and has been awarded a Bronze Medal by the Society of Dyers and Colourists, UK for services to the SDC in India. Mr. Rahul is a National Expert for the European Union Ecolabel for textiles having undergone training by the EU under the aegis of the UNEP. He was an invited trainer for the EU Ecolabel to the UNEP's MERCOSUR Workshop and Conference in Brazilin 2010. He is a member of the Customer Advisory Council of ATLAS, the manufacturer of weathering and light fastness equipment and also a member of the expert review committee for Levi Strauss' restricted substances list for the past 4 years. Email : rahul.bhajekar@gmail.com

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It was a rainy day in August 1994, on an annual holiday from my then employment in Muscat, Sultanate of Oman, on a road trip to the Konkan with family and friends that the subject of me being connected to the Textile Industry was first broached. It was a prospect that did not hold much water with me at the time, being completely blank in the very subject. As fate would have it, a few months later, on October 13th, 1994, I joined Texanlab and became part of the Textile Industry. It was a fun but frustrating time in the early days. No prior knowledge and so much of technicality to be acquired and that too from the basics. But I had wonderful and patient teachers at Texanlab. People who gave freely and generously of their experiences and knowledge. Each month and each year continue to bring many new things to learn. Over the years, I have learnt quite a few lessons. Things that helped me grow professionally and personally. To put them in relevant words is practically impossible aseach is a story in itself. So I thought perhaps the best way to share someof my learnings would be to put down a series of paragraphs &quotes; some profound, some jocular, others irreverent and some practical. "The three great essentials to achieve anything worthwhile are, hard work; stick-to-it-iveness; and common sense." - Thomas Alva Edison There can be no substitute for hard work and perseverance. Add a dollop of that highly desirable but uncommon human quality - common sense and you have it in you to make anything a success. Whether it is in your work or in your personal lives, there is no doubt at all - you have to work for it! "Everything is difficult until you know how to do it." - Ullhas Nimkar Confronted by a task that you know little about, it is very easy to let it overwhelm you. Though it is just an illusion. If you know how to do it, every task is easy. It may take a while to master but no task is insurmountable. After all, there is someone who does it! Having said that, there are definitely some things which rely on pure God-given talent. These are beyond most ordinary people whether you study them deeply or with purpose. But in our industry, there are only but a few such tasks. Most can be learnt. "By seeking and blundering we learn." -Johann Wolfgang von Goethe It is impossible to learn without making mistakes. The key to getting better at your job is ensuring you learn from every mistake you have made and making absolutely sure that you never repeat the same mistake. "People don't learn by being told, they have to find out for themselves." -Paulo Coelho Often, it is only personal experience that makes the man (or woman!). You may try your very best to help someone who you know may be heading in the wrong direction but there are times when you have to let it be. A few knocks may be necessary before finding the right door. How many times did you fall off your bicycle before transforming yourself to being an "ace" rider? September - October 2014

An expert is a person who has made all the mistakes that can be made in a very narrow field." -Niels Bohr There are experts and there are experts. But most have one thing in common. Experience. Of having made mistakes and learnt from them. And the best experts are those who learn from others' mistakes as well. "If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything." -Mark Twain "The truth will surely set you free, but first it will surely piss you off." -Gloria Steinem Even if you are a minority of one, the truth is the truth. - Mohandas Gandhi One of the ills that I have seen in this industry is the penchant for some people to brazenly talk through ones hat. While I must clearly state that this is certainly not exclusive to the textile industry, it is also true that a far greater number of afflictions of this nature have been observed by me than in other fields. Confronted by a tricky situation, industry persons tell white lies, halftruths and generally try and deflect matters. It is very likely you may get away with this attitude a few times, but one day, with certainty, things come back and bite you big time. Yes, truth often carries the potential to hurt you, but it is a choice to hide it ? Perhaps it has been too long and we have forgotten the basic lessons of primary school … And oh, the excuses one has heard over the past two decades … Un.believable! "You can fool some people sometimes, but you cannot fool them all of the times"\ Following up from being truthful, integrity is what should remain supreme, whatever be your profession or occupation. Certainly the textile industry too needs to practise this more. I have come across cases of people trying to bend rules to such an extent that the person carries on blissfully living in a fantasy of one's own creation, almost as if unaware that one day, this bubble will definitely burst. If you managed to get by once, you were lucky. "Luck" runs out sooner than you think! Nothing will work unless you do. - Maya Angelou How many times have I heard…. "This is not my job"! While I certainly strongly advocate having precise &proper job-descriptions with functions explained to each professional for them to follow them, there are these floaty - incongruous - diaphanous tasks that people seem to deliberately look through. On a very basic level, for example, who is supposed to change a fused tube light in the work place? Or clean September - October 2014

up the one cobweb in one corner of the store room that you've noticed for the past few days? Or even the stray piece of paper that fell besides the waste paper basket? It may be very clear who, but why can't "someone" take the effort of informing this "who" about the malfunction? And there are those who often expect things to happen without any real effort on their part. Well, in my experience one of the only things that happens like that, apart from involuntary functions such as your beating heart, is the daily "job" you do sitting on the "throne" each morning ! The best preparation for good work tomorrow is to do good work today.- Elbert Hubbard Well begun is half done. Why procrastinate ? Why not plan ahead a little ? If we are able to put down an action plan after some genuine thought process, it may be smooth sailing when the task actually becomes due. In a system-driven service sector that I am involved in, if we don't plan, we cannot execute. We can collapse. In fact we often spend more time planning actions than the actions themselves. And trust me, yes, it does work ! Why do they call it rush hour when nothing moves?- Robin Williams We have a cartoon poster put up in our Salem office : "Everything is wanted yesterday in this place. So if you want something today, come tomorrow!" The textile industry is always running behind schedule. And testing is the last thing on everyone's mind. So by the time a sample is received by our laboratories, it is already behind schedule. And then, I hear frequently hear words that are a refrain from Robin Williams' quote. Why can't we,as an industry, not plan better? Or is it that we just accept everything finally comes together in the end? This leads to one more typical trait that we particularly have in the subcontinent : jugaad andchalta hai. But why should we compromise? And why should our customers? I have had the fortune of interacting with many buyers of Indian Textile products from all around the world. They all love our stuff, but they really are bugged with two things. One, we are never on time and two, we almost never say no, even though we know we cannot deliver! Lessons to learn : People value time. And it is OK to say "no" once in a while, you cannot just accept everything just because it comes your way. Irrespective of whether it is a customer or buyer. The real tricky part, of course, is to be prudent about what to accept and what not to. 201

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TEXPERIENCE

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXPERIENCE "Never respond to an angry person with a fiery comeback, even if he deserves it...Don't allow his anger to become your anger."- Bohdi Sanders, Ageless Wisdom for the Modern Warrior The textile industry is one of high pressure. Especially those in the export industry are faced with serious crises every single day. It is quite natural for them to be upset and angry at delays or issues that could cause them to lose face or business with their customers. I have learnt that getting doubly angry does more harm than good. When blood is pumping through your system, you can explode in more ways than one, so it is prudent to take a step back and think a bit. But I know. It is so bloody hard to do …. To improve is to change; to be perfect is to change often.- Winston Churchill Change is the law of life. And those who look only to the past or present are certain to miss the future.- John F. Kennedy Change is inevitable, change is permanent. One who stops reinventing oneself or a business that stops modifying itself will eventually fade away. One of the big problems of ushering change is the resistance that people give it. Work and life evolve. All the time. We all need to accept that things will not be the same tomorrow. Review, revitalize and rejuvenate must be the mantra. While it is tough to keep continually changing, in this day and age, it is simply a way of life.Ask yourself a simple question : that cellular phone you have in your possession - how old is it ? When did you last change it? When are you planning to change it to a newer model ? Why do you need to change it even if it still works ? Change is inevitable, change is the only constant. Q.E.D. Where the loser saw barriers, the winner saw hurdles. -Robert Brault It is a common refrain that I have heard from many quarters of the industry. Whenever a new requirement came up, it was always referred to as being "unreasonable" on the part of the buyer. For example, for the longest time, the industry kept insisting that the requirement of Banned Amines (Azo Dyes) was a non-tariff barrier to trade by Germany. But there were companies that took this head-on and worked hard at ensuring their products conformed. It worked out in the long run. When faced with an obstacle, it is our choice whether to scale it, bypass it or turn back. No prizes for guess202

ing which should be the logical right choice ! "We can't do this without you" I cannot emphasize this lesson that I learnt,enough. Life and work is mainly about being together and teamwork. Yes, we do need a leader or two. But there needs to be a team as well. And the team needs to know its full worth. Respect, Motivation and Support are three things which a team likes to have from its leader. Belief in yourself and belief in the team will make things happen. And do tell your co-workers how you appreciate them once in a while, if not often. It will make a world of a difference. Trust me. "The things you do for yourself are gone when you are gone, but the things you do for others remain as your legacy." - Kalu Ndukwe Kalu As a professional, one cannot but reflect on how you will be remembered by your business associates, colleagues and peers when your days of working are done. How you conducted yourself in your daily worklife is as important as what you achieved. We will do well to remember that one cannot exist without others around us and that should show in our behaviour. In a boss - subordinate or peer to peer scenario "Treat your seniors & peers the way you want to be treated and treat your juniors far better than your seniors treated you". While putting some thoughts together for this article, it became difficult to not put down out some very fundamental principles that I believe in. Perhaps life's learning is best summed up by a few more sentences, so I will end with these : ◆ You are never too late (or old) to learn. ◆ Teachers don't always teach you in traditional ways and they don't necessarily have educational qualifications equal or better than you. In fact, they may be even uneducated! ◆ A college degree is a mere foundation, the structure you build on it is based on what you learn thereafter. ◆ Education does not make you a better person. ◆ The day you stop learning, you can safely change your last name to "God"!

Texttreasure To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment." - Ralph Waldo Emerson September - October 2014

TEXNOTE

Chapter 2: Role of Textiles in Tissue Engineering Scaffolds Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, Ravindra Adivarekar The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffold in future.

Role of Textiles in Tissue Engineering Scaffolds As seen in the first chapter the tissue engineering scaffolds form a very important part in developing a replacement of the tissues or organs which are damaged or irreplaceable by regenerating or re-growing them. Hence this tissue engineering field is also known as regenerative medicine. The requirements of a tissue engineering scaffolds are primarily biodegradability, sufficient mechanical strength, porosity and controlled degradation rate. The requirements of scaffolds and the properties of textile fibres have many similarities. Most of the fibres used in textiles are bio-degradable (viz. Cotton, silk, wool) or can be made bio-degradable by altering the manufacturing process (viz. Poly Caprolactum). Similarly the strength, rate of degradation and porosity can also be controlled. As seen from the history of evolution of scaffolds for tissue engineering, the materials for scaffolds generation from last 5 decades are shifted to use of biopolymers in textile related forms. The reason for this trend of increasing popularity of textiles in scaffolds is the well established textile manufacturing technology and its processing sequence, the availability of variety of forms and possibility of converting desired biopolymer into suitable textile form with ease. The contribution of the textiles used in tissue engineering scaffolds is described in the following text. Early developmentsof textile related scaffold The use of scaffolds for engineering of required tissues started in 1950s with the use of inert metals like platinum which were then replaced by ceramic scafSeptember - October 2014

folds. However the focus of researchers and industry shifted towards the use of polymeric scaffolds due to its ease of processability, bio-compatibility and availability at low cost. The inclination of scaffolds materials towards textile technology began as the use of polymeric materials increased. The different forms of textiles like fibres, yarns, woven, knitted or braided fabrics or in the form of non-woven mesh are been explored by the researchers throughout the world and reported hitherto to give an idea of the use of textiles in tissue engineering. These forms of textiles or their manufacturing technology is used to make tissue engineering scaffold. Fibres Textiles in the form of fibres are used since pre-historic times as clothing and decoration. Application of fibres in advanced techniques including filtration, composite fabrication, energy systems are seen in recent times. In the field of tissue engineering, the fibre form of textiles is getting used as electro-spun fibre mesh and direct prototyping or 3D printing using CAD. Other than these two, the well established technologies in the textile industry used for making fibres are wet spinning, melt spinning, bio-spinning, micro-fluid spinning. Fibres of natural origin or synthetic polymers using these techniques are manufactured for application in tissue engineering. The techniques used for manufacturing tissue engineering scaffolds are as per the requirements of the tissue to be engineered. The two or more techniques can be used in synergy to make a composite scaffold to suffice the requirements. In table 1,the various techniques that are used in scaffold making are described with their properties. The fibres formed using these techniques are used in the fibre form or the fibres are further processed to form fabrics or fibre mesh (non-woven textile) and used for tissue engineering application.

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This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. The first chapter served as an introductory text for those who wish to expand their understanding of tissue engineering scaffolds.

TEXNOTE Table 1: Techniques for fibre formation

Technique Electro-spinning

Principle Fibers are drawn by the flow of a viscoelastic polymer subjected to an applied electric field between an injecting needle and a collector plate at a distance from the needle

Strengths - Relatively simple - Efficient control over the key process parameters such as flow rate and voltage - Possibility to scale-up

Wet spinning

Fibres are formed by injecting a polymer solution into a coagulation bath where they are cross-linked

- Intrinsic higher porosity and larger pore size

Micro-fluid spinning

Fibers are produced by coaxial - Multiplexing is possible - Since the process of fiber flow of a pre-polymer and a in fibre fabrication fabrication is relatively slow, crosslinking agent. They can - Size of the fibers creating 3D structures is time be used for the production of fabricated with consuming functional cell-incorporating microfluidic systems is fibers. smaller than wet-spun but larger than electrospun fibers

Bio-spinning

The process of fiber - scaffolds with high fabrication by various insects mechanical strength such as silkworm and spider is called biospinning.

- Limitation of resources - Time consuming and expensive preprocessing - lack of control over the size of the fabricated fibers - Impossibility of incorporating cells in the fibers

Interfacial Complexation

Interfacial complexation technique includes the fabrication of fibers at the interface of two oppositely charged polyelectrolyte solutions by means of polyion complex (PIC) formation

- Simple technique

- Scale-up difficult - less materials can be processed - Less control over fibre diameter and porosity

A polymer is heated to its melting point and is extruded through a spinneret to form continuous fiber strands

- Cross-section of the - High temperature processing fibers and their texture - Protein loading not possible can be tailored - Cell-laden fibres formation not possible

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Melt spinning

Fabrics Various bio-polymers are processed and used in the form of fabrics to manufacture tissue engineering scaffolds. Woven, knitted and braided are some of these forms that are used in scaffold manufacturing. These fabrics can serve either as tissue scaffolds or as reinforcements inside the matrix of hydro-gels or sponge or any other form of scaffold to improve their me204

Limitations - Difficulty in manufacturing of thick 3D complex scaffolds - Fiber packing density is relatively high and hard to control resulting in small pore sizes

chanical stability. Reinforcement in Matrix The textiles are also used as reinforcement for tissue engineering scaffolds. The textiles gives reinforcement, in the form of short staple fibres, reinforced within the matrix of compatible materials which results in generating considerably stronger scaffolding materials. The fiber volume fraction, fiber dispersal, fiber orientation, and interfacial bonding between the short fiber and September - October 2014

TEXNOTE Technique

Strengths

Limitations

Weaving

- Controlled strength, porosity, morphology, and geometry, - Lightweight, strong, and flexible

- Two dimensional structure hence exhibits poor resistance towards forces applied in the through-plane direction

Knitting

- Higher through-plane mechanical - Weaker in the in-plane direction properties in comparison with other - lower thickness than woven textile based constructs fabrics - Higher porosity

Braiding

- Higher resistance in radial compression than wovens - Resistant to bending, shear, in-plane, and through-plane loads - Can tolerate torsion and internal pressure in multistep braiding structure

Non-woven textile Nonwoven scaffolds have been used extensively for tissue engineering as these substrates provide a random fiber arrangement with extremely high porosity. These materials can be formed using a variety of nonwoven technologies including melt-blowing or spunbonding. The use of electro-spinning is also an important technology which is used for making non-woven scaffolds. Application in tissue scaffold The textile technology is explored to make the scaffolding of human tissue more efficient and period specific process. The human tissue growth is critical and the properties required for the growing tissue like strength which should decrease as the process time increase, the structural and dimensional stability which should also perform with respect to time of the process. Thus with these mature technologies an array of engineering applications can be met and the required scaffolds can be tailored to meet the respective tissue engineering requirements. Until now, the scaffolds based on textile technology are being constructed for growing cartilages, tendons and ligaments, skin, bladder wall, blood vessel, microvascular network, bone and also for stem cells. Textile September - October 2014

technology is also used to generate scaffolds for stem cell growth for heart tissue formation, vascular tissue regeneration, bladder replacements, and cartilage repair. About the Authors Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Prcessing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conservation of resources and reuse of water in textile wet processing, and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 100 papers in journals of national and International repute. 205

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surrounding bulk matrix can be altered according to the requirements of the scaffold which along with reinforcement gives additional choice to design the scaffold properties according to requirements. The properties like tensile strength, stiffness and choice of designing the structure, gives the scaffold load bearing capacity and help in maintaining the dimensions of the scaffold throughout the regeneration of required tissue.

- Lower porosity as compared to knits

NEWS

A.T.E. Confirms Participation in ITMACH Indiawith a Large Stall Karl Mayer, Luwa India Pvt. Ltd, Mag Solvics Pvt. Ltd, Softech Controls Pvt. Ltd., along with A.T.E. Enterprises will be at ITMACH India.

in India manufactures high quality textile testing equipment for fibre, yarn, fabric and garment, conforming to international standards like ISO, ASTM, AATCC, BS, SDC, IS, IWS, IWTO, ITMF and DIN.

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. (ATEEPL), Softech Controls Pvt. Ltd. A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. (ATEEPL), the leading supplier of textile machinery and accessories across the textile value chain has confirmed its participation in ITMACH India exhibition which is scheduled from December 10-13, 2014. ATE and its principles have booked 150 sq. meters of space at ITMACH India, positioning itself as a 'one window solution provider' - ranging from spinning, weaving, knitting, dry and wet finishing, printing, garmenting, home textiles, synthetic fibers and filaments, carpets, technical textiles and nonwovens, and also utilities such as air engineering, water treatment, effluent treatment and lab equipment.

An Indian professional engineering firm with 110 years of experience has carved a niche in the textile industry with its total automation solutions. Softech is part of the renowned Cotmac Group of Companies, with a strong domestic and international presence in countries such as U.S.A., Canada, UAE and Singapore. ITMACH India is fully booked ITMACH India is now fully booked, with around 200 exhibitors participating in the show. The textile machinery industry has come out in full support of this first of its kind international textile technology show in Gujarat.

Karl Mayer Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH is the world's leading manufacturer of warp knitting machines, Karl Mayer is also a leading manufacturer in denim machinery. The company's competencies also include technical textiles and glass fibre applications.

ITMACH India is supported by the Govt. of Gujarat as "Principal Supporting State Govt.", Industrial Extension Bureau (iNDEXTb) of Gujarat and leading trade associations like Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), PDEXCIL, SRTEPC as well as trade Medias. Considering the size and response, ITMACH India is conferred by the status of pre-summit event to Vibrant Gujarat 2015 to stimulate investments in Gujarat.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Luwa India Pvt Ltd. Luwa is a market leader in air engineering. Years of experience, profound know-how and proven European technology have led Luwa to provide customised solutions to several industries which are now trusted by over 1,000 customers in India. Its product range includes customised air handling units; turnkey air conditioning systems; central vacuum systems; automatic overhead traveling cleaners; and building management system. Mag Solvics Pvt. Ltd. MAG, one of the leading manufacturers of textile testing equipment 206

For any further information: Mr. Henry D'souza Tel: 0091 22 22017061/2/3 info@itmach.com www.ITMACH.com

Texttreasure If people are good only because they fear punishment, and hope for reward, then we are a sorry lot indeed. - Albert Einstein. September - October 2014

NEWS

AATCC Announces 2015 Concept 2 Consumer速 Student Merchandising Competition AATCC student members are invited to showcase their merchandising and marketing talents to win cash and recognition by participating in the 2015 Concept 2 Consumer速 Student Merchandising Competition. AATCC announces the first Concept 2 Consumer速 Student Merchandising Competition. Students will showcase their skills in business, marketing, and merchandising by creating a business concept for a hypothetical new product line of an outerwear collection. The hypothetical product line should include one technology feature in either the fabric selection (ex: water repellency) or style (ex: solar panels). Students are to research and take inspiration from outerwear products and technologies currently in the textile and apparel market. Students can enter the contest individually or work in teams. Completeguidelines for the contest are available online.

First place earns US$1,000, second place winner(s) receive US$750, and one honorable mention winner(s) will receive US$250. Entries are due April 29, 2015. To enter, send a pdf of the poster project toAATCC. Winners will be announced by June 1, 2015. The Concept 2 Consumer速Student Merchandising Competition flyer can be accessed here. For further information please contact : Manisha Patel Membership Services Representative AATCC 1 Davis Drive, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2115, USA Office: +1.919.549.549.3523, Fax: +1.919.549 Email:patelm@aatcc.org |www.aatcc.org

New Book Publisher Textile Technology Dr. Mahapatra is a B.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, Mumbai. He also holds aM.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University, Orissa. He did his M.B.A. from I.M.M., Kolkata. Dr. Mahapatra is having 29 years of experience in textile industries in India and Abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birlas (both Aditya Birla and K.K. Birla group), Reliance, Raymond (Kenya), Churchgate Group (Nigeria), GSL (formerly Gujarat Spinners Ltd.), LNJ Bhilwara (RSWM) Group and HindprakashLonsen Industries, Ahmedabad in various senior capacities. This book is written based on the 30 years practical experience of the author working in various textile mills (Dye House) in India and abroad. His wide experience on modern topics which he had shares with the textile audiences in many textile conferences in India and Abroad. This book will be very useful to textile students, textile scientists, textile research scholars, September - October 2014

textile designers who are the thinkers and future of Indian Textile Industries. They can also try to implement various processes in the textile industries. It will be also helpful to senior executives of textile mills to know what are the latest developments in the textiles been taken place. The book deals with many new and latest developments taking place in the textile industries. It will help the Research & Development departments of Textile Mills to take up a few modern topics as a project and work on it. Some of the Technologies are already being used in Textile Industries and some are on pilot stage. After a few years the rest of the technologies will come into use. ISBN: 978-93-313-2449-8 Pages: 254 Rs. 1495/Published by: APH publishing Corporation Book your order with Dr. K.B. Nangia E-mail: aphbooks@gmail.com 207

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Author Dr. N. N. Mahapatra

NEWS

China Yarn seminar series. Schlafhorst market presence in China Schlafhorst has taken part in two seminars of the China Yarn organisation. In May a seminar tookplace in Wuhan on the topics of ring spinning and automation. A greeting by Schlafhorst gotdelegates in the mood for the two-day seminar. In a video interview, René Bucken (head ofmarketing, senior manager sales) presented new solutions from Schlafhorst. The second seminar in Suzhou from 21 to 23 October 2014 was hosted by Schlafhorst as main sponsor of the event.

René Bucken, Head of Marketing and Senior Manager Sales at Schlafhorst with Mr. Wang Guogang, Chief Editor China Yarn

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Around 500 visitors to the seminar, mostly experts from Chinese cotton spinning mills, focused on newdevelopments in package winding. René Bucken

and Peter Gölden (senior product manager winding)explained the strategic aims and product portfolio of Saurer and Schlafhorst in various presentations andinterviews. Product highlights from Zinser were discussed along with new developments relating to theAutoconer X5 and automation of the ring spinning mill. Mr. Wang Guogang, chief editor of China Yarn, toldSchlafhorst: "The manner in which Chinese spinning mills are opening up to markets outside China is takingon a new dimension. Although Chinese spinning mills have frequently produced goods for markets outsideChina in the past, they are now going a stage further and establishing subsidiaries in Asia and in the USA,for example,to be able to benefit from favourable basic conditions for textile production there. Eventslikethis help to create the necessary transparency support the transfer of know-how and promote interculturalexchanges in the interests of both sides. It is an important step in meeting the challenges of the future." For further information please contact : Waltraud Jansen Expert Communication Rotor Spinning Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60 52531 Übach-Palenberg Germany Tel.: + 49 2451 905 2194 E-mail: waltraud.jansen@saurer.com Website: www.saurer.com

Mr. Wang Tiankai elected New ITMF - President President, China Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC) On October 17, 2014 during the Annual Conference 2014 of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) in Beijing/China, the Committee of Management of the Federation elected Mr. Wang Tiankai (China) unanimously as the new President of the Federation for the next two years. Furthermore, the Committee of Management elected Mr. Jaswinder Bedi (Kenya) as Vice President and 208

reconfirmed Mr. Peter Gnägi (Switzerland) as ITMF Treasurer. Mr. Josué C. Gomez da Silva (Brazil) was appointed Honorary Life Member of the Federation in recognition of his outstanding contribution to the Federation during his six years of service as ITMF Vice President (2008-2012) and ITMF President (2012-2014).

September - October 2014

NEWS

European Textile Company increases production by 18% with the Autocoro 8

Over 200 million square metres of wovens for the global market The Tirotex textile company was established in Tiraspol, Moldova, in 1972. It is a vertically integrated manufacturer with a huge industrial complex that has a sophisticated infrastructure and its own power plant.The complex boasts its own spinning and weaving mills, dye shops, finishing plants and sewing linesemploying over 3,200 people in all. Tirotex has invested consistently in innovative European textile machinery. The majority of its machines, which assume a key role in relation to quality and productivity, originate in Germany. The overall area of the production halls is equivalent to the size of 58 football pitches. With anannual output of over 200 million square metres of finished fabrics and wovens, Tirotex is one of the biggesttextile companies in Europe. It is export-oriented, manufacturing underwear and home textiles such asbedding, tablecloths, furnishing fabrics and curtains for the global market. Tirotex supplies dyed and printedfabrics made from 100% cotton or polyestercotton blends. The attributes of its wovens meet every customerrequirement: they are resistant to water, oil, dust and stains, and do not crease, pill or shrink.

TirotexAutocoro 8 September - October 2014

The company spins all the yarns for its fabrics. Tirotex operates 27 Autocoro rotor spinning machines from Schlafhorst. Each year it processes more than 17,000 tonnes of cotton, primarily from Uzbekistan and Tadzhikistan. In the layout of its spinning mill, maximum productivity and a guaranteed yarn quality for downstream Processing in the weaving mill are the defining objectives for Tirotex, and so the company has been investingfor years in highly productive rotor spinning machines from Schlafhorst. With the new Autocoro 8 Tirotex hasnow smashed the seemingly unassailable barrier of 150,000 rpm and has thereby increased its production by18%. "The limit now only exists in the mind" For over 20 years, the maximum rotor speed of 150,000 rpm was regarded as the ceiling for rotor spinning,both in practice and with regard to the technology. There were good reasons for this in practice: higher rotorspeeds can result in more yarn breaks, which reduce machine productivity.The time-consuming piecingprocess by the travelling piecing units with their long, unproductive travelling times nullify any increase inproductivity on conventional rotor spinning machines. The belt drive also comes up against a physical limit its design means that it's running precision declines at higher speeds and on longer machines. Greater wearand quality loss are the consequences. And finally, energy consumption explodes on conventional rotorspinning machines as the speed rises - an absolute no-go issue in times of escalating energy costs.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Tirotex, Europe's biggest textile company, has succeeded in overturning the practical limit on rotorspinning of 150,000 rpm that has been insurmountable for over 20 years. On its Autocoro 8 rotorspinning machines from Schlafhorst, Tirotex is spinning high-quality weaving yarns for its ownweaving mill at a rotor speed of 160,000 rpm. This has been made possible by the innovative singledrivetechnology of the Autocoro 8, which has smashed all the previously applicable productivitybarriers.

Mr. Andrey Mezhinskiy 209

NEWS The Autocoro 8 with its revolutionary single-drive technology smashes these limits. Technically the innovativerotor spinning machine is designed for rotor speeds of 200,000 rpm. "The practical limit of 150,000 rpm nowonly exists in the mind," says Andrey Mezhinskiy, general director of Tirotex. "Schlafhorst long since overcamethe barrier with the Autocoro 8. But no-one throws out overnight a rule that has applied for over 20 years.Neither doesus. Many factors come together in practice. Various key indicators should be heeded if one wishesto increase profitability and efficiency in a sustainable manner: raw materials, energy, and quality. We naturallywant to increase the productivity of our spinning mill, but not at any price. We have set quality standards foryarn strength, yarn elongation and yarn uniformity that must be adhered to. With the Autocoro 8'spredecessor, the Autocoro 480, we produced medium-count weaving yarns at 135,000 rpm. With the Autocoro8 we have finally been able to crack the 150,000 rpm barrier on a daily basis. For example, we are nowspinning a weaving yarn with a count of Nm 34 at 160,000 rpm." High-speed yarn of premium quality The results that Tirotex achieves in daily production with the Autocoro 8 are attention-grabbing: 18% moreyarn with a yarn strength and elongation that are above the minimum requirements of the company's ownweaving mill and below the 25% characteristic line of Uster Statistics. High-speed yarn of premium quality thespecific energy requirement per kilogram of yarn is less than 1 kWh - a value that is the stuff of dreams in thecase of conventional, belt-driven machines, even at much lower rotor speeds.

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Revolutionary individual spinning position technology Schlafhorst succeeded in making the breakthrough to new high-speed dimensions with a groundbreaking newmachine concept. Restricting central drives were replaced on the Autocoro 8 by single-motor drives andintelligent software. Each spinning position is a production unit in itself, with autonomous spinning and windingprocesses. The piecing process was integrated completely into the individual spinning position, dramaticallyshortening piecing processes in the case of yarn breaks and on machine start-up. Frictionless magnetic rotordrives guarantee absolute reliability and safety at all speeds. Schlafhorst has thus eliminated the limits thathave restricted rotor spinning for over 20 years and has opened up new prospects 210

for the industry. Pioneer with ambitious goals Tirotex has certainly not broken the 150,000 rpm barrier early in continuous operation by chance. TheCompany is a longstanding customer of Schlafhorst with many years of experience in rotor spinning. Added tothis is the fact that Tirotex not only tests the quality of the yarns in its own textile laboratory, but also processesthe yarns itself in its own weaving and knitting mills, and thus has ample opportunity for quality control."Perhaps these is why we are a little bolder and have tackled the limit sooner than others," says AndreyMezhinskiy. "We would spot quality problems in the weaving mill immediately." Tirotex regards the stage it has reached merely as an intermediate step, because 160,000 rpm is far from thelimit. "Following the success achieved with the Nm 34 yarn count, we will increase the speeds for other yarnstoo at a controlled rate and test the new potential of the Autocoro 8 continuously," says Andrey Mezhinskiy. Tirotex is pursuing ambitious goals. "We are also investing specifically in productivity and efficiency in the nextfew years to be able to expand further in the global market in the future." For Tirotex it is obvious that only theAutocoro 8 comes into question for this expansion in the spinning mill. For further information please contact : Waltraud Jansen Expert Communication Rotor Spinning Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstrasse 60 52531 Ă&#x153;bach-Palenberg Germany T +49 2451 905 2194 waltraud.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Textsmile A man went to doctor with broken head. Dr: what happened? Man: I was breaking wall by using stones. A man came and said to me use your head sometimes. September - October 2014

NEWS

German Textile Machinery as Reliable Partner for the Ethiopian Textile Industry

The Ethiopian government has set ambitious goals for the textile and garment industry. Production, productivity and export performance of the industry should be further increased. In 2014, the export value of textile and garment sector reached 120 million US-Dollar and is expected to increase to 500 million US-Dollar in 2016. To reach these goals investments in modern technology is one decisive factor to further increase the competitiveness of the industry.

tives will help to attract further investments in the future. However, the delegation also realized the existing obstacles concerning the supply chain from cotton to the end-product, the overall infrastructure and logistics, the lack of foreign exchange to finance necessary imports of textile machinery and intermediate textile products such as yarns, regular power interruptions as well as the need to qualify more textile professionals. Despite these obstacles, the delegation had an overall positive impression about the state of the textile mills visited and on Ethiopia's progress and willingness to stimulate the textile business. The delegates from the German textile machinery and accessory manufacturers were very much satisfied with the contacts and will continue to address the Ethiopian market by offering state-of-the-art solutions for theentire textile value chain: Machinery and accessories for spinning, knitting, weaving, hosiery, braiding, dyeing, drying, finishing and sewing. German textile machinery and accessory manufacturers are reliable and competent partners for the textile and garment industry in Ethiopia.

Contact us to know more about JTA Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 In recent years, some investors e.g. from Turkey, China and India have set-up textile and garment production plants in Ethiopia by making use of the relatively low costs in terms of energy, wages and land. These incenSeptember - October 2014

Mobile: +91-22-9819801922 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, 211

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A high-ranking delegation of 15 well-known German textile machinery and accessories manufacturers visited important Ethiopian textile producers from 13th to 17th October 2014. The delegation tour was initiated by VDMA German Engineering Federation (Textile Machinery Association), supported by the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy and organised by SBS systems for business solutions and its local partner Agathon Consulting. The programme consisted of company visits as well as information and networking events at the office premises of German Development Cooperation Ethiopia (GIZ).

NEWS Participants from Germany:

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Company

Website

Overview

Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH u. Co. KG

BRÜCKNER, since 1949 your partner for innovative solutions for the finishing of textiles and planiform materials. Lines for drying, coating, laminating, finishing of textiles, technical textiles, carpets, non-wovens.

www.brueckner-textil.de

Dürkopp Adler AG

Dürkopp Adler AG is the leading European manufacturer of industrial sewing machines and automated sewing technology for garment, automotive, home upholstery, technical textiles, leather and shoes.

www.duerkopp-adler.com

Erhardt-Leimer GmbH

Specializing in system solutions and automation technology, Web guiding, web spreading, web tension measurement and control, cutting technology, measuring and inspection technology, print image monitoring.

www.erhardt-leimer.com

FONGS EUROPE GMBH

Scouring, bleaching, dyeing and drying- we have the solution to make your process as efficient as possible. We have the widest range of dyeing and finishing machines available for wovens and knits.

www.fongs.eu

Groz-Beckert KG

Groz-Beckert is the world's leading provider of industrial needles, precision components and fine tools as well as systems and services for the production and joining of textile surfaces.

www.groz-beckert.com

HERZOG BRAIDING MACHINES

HERZOG braiding and winding machines for the textile industry. For rope production from waste fibre in big bag production.

www.herzog-online.com

Jakob Müller Deutschland GmbH

The company's current product portfolio covers all the needs of the ribbon and narrow fabrics industry, from yarn warping to the finished fabric, knit or textile label.

www.mueller-frick.com

KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH

Lace machines, tricot and Raschel machines, warp preparation units, machines for production technical Textiles.

www.karlmayer.com

Mahlo GmbH u. Co. KG

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG is one of the world's leading manufacturers of monitoring, control and automation systems

www.mahlo.com

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September - October 2014

NEWS

Mayer u. Cie. GmbH u. Co. KG

Maximum precision and an uncompromising innovative drive are the strengths which distinguish us as the global market leader for mechanical and electronic single and double jacquard circular knitting machines for Homewear and Techtex.

www.mayerandcie.com

Meyer u. Meyer Transport Logistics GmbH u. Co. KG

As a leading European provider of fashion logistics, we offer services that cover the entire value chain, from raw materials and production logistics, to warehousing, quality assurance and finishing, to delivering finished goods to the point of sale.

www.meyermeyer.de

Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH u. Co. KG.

Speed frames and automation of these, roving conveyor systems, short- and long-staple ring spinning machines, short- and long-staple compact spinning machines, automatic package winders, semi-automatic and automatic rotor spinning machines.

www.saurer.com

Terrot GmbH

The name Terrot stands worldwide for quality and top performance in the production of electronic and mechanic controlled circular knitting machines.

www.terrot.de

TEXPA Maschinenbau GmbH u. Co.

Installations for semi- and fully automatic manufacturing of home textiles such terry products, bed linen, table linen, curtains, blankets, cloths and flags.

www.texpa.de

VDMA Textile Machinery Association

Around 120 of the most important manufacturers of textile machinery and accessories from all sectors of the trade are affiliated within the VDMA Textile Machinery Association

www.machines-for-textiles.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

for not only the textile and allied finishing industries but also the paper, foil and coating sectors.

For further information please contact : Comprehensive catalogue: http://german-tech.org/images/Catalogue_Ethiopia/index.html List of participants: www.german-tech.org/de/die-teilnehmer-liste/maschinen-und-anlagenbau VDMA Textile Machinery Association: http://machines-for-textiles.com

September - October 2014

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NEWS

Glen Raven Inc., the leading global provider of high-performance fabric, is exploring expanding its presence in India Glen Raven Inc., the leading global provider of highperformance fabrics designed for a wide variety of residential, commercial, and industrial applications, is exploring expanding its presence in India. The company provides high-performance fabrics for various industries including Automotive, Petrochemicals, Construction, Mining, Logistics, Geosynthetics, Filtration and Protective Fabrics for the Police, Military, Fire Fighters etc. Glen Raven has manufacturing facilities on three continents, including North America, Europe, and Asia, and sells products in over 100 countries. Its brands such as Sunbrella and Dickson fabrics are used for residential and commercial awnings, upholstery, outdoor furniture, and boating.

Says Paige Mullis, Director of Concept Development, Glen Raven "Globally, technical textile forms 65% of the textile market, whereas in India it is only 10 to 15%. This indicates the massive growth potential in this segment. Given the demand for the technical textiles in India, and our diverse range of products, our experience and expertise in innovations in high performance fabrics, we are well placed to partner with Indian companies to provide solutions for industry specific needs. Our leading-edge manufacturing facilities specialize in weaving, knitting, dying, coating, and laminating worldwide-and are committed to the health and safety of our associates."

India's technical textiles market, which is currently estimated at $17 billion is likely to reach a level of $32 billion by 2023, will develop as an important centre for both manufacturing and consumption. Innovation in using technical textiles for new applications across industries will be the driver of the growth of the industry.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Automotive

Military

Paige Mullis, Director Director of Concept Development, Glen Raven 214

Glen Raven's investments in India began in 2007 when it acquired Strata Systems, Inc. in the U.S., which owned 50 percent of Strata India, geosynthetics sales, marketing and technical support company based in Mumbai formed in 2004 as part of Strata's global operations. According to Paige, "Advances in fiber, yarn, fabric September - October 2014

NEWS and manufacturing technologies continue to lead to new application opportunities across industries, especially in the more highly engineered applications, such as in Automobiles, Military, and Infrastructure.

COMPANY LISTING On

www.textileassociationindia.org The Textile Association (India) has taken yet another step ahead to bolster advertising opportunities in "Company Listing" on TAI website (www.textileassociationindia.org) to interested advertisers who would like to get global exposure and promote their business, products worldwide.

Structures

This service will include a searchable Company Listing on TAI's website along with a facility for the member to upload their business, product and contact details along with relevant photographs. This will be publicized across the global via email, promotion at fairs and many other modes & activities. Prospective buyers will be able to see your product profile, business details and will be able to communicate with you to ensure that you don't miss out on any business opportunity.

Glen Raven has been a leader in innovation, performance, quality and technical merit of these engineered products since 1880. Staying ahead of the technology curve is critical, but equally important for us is to partner with our customers to use our products as solutions for their specific needs in high tech, high performance fabrics designed not just to look attractive, but to offer a significant added value in terms of functionality." For any further information please contact: Aarohan Communications; Tel.: 022 32267053; E-mail: pr@aarohancommunications.com Website: www.glenraven.com.

Texttreasure Knowing is not enough, we must apply, willing is not enough, we must do. - Bruce Lee September - October 2014

For More Details Please Contact The Textile Association (India) 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Ground Floor, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W),Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-2474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

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Flags and Banner

We have kept the pricing as low as INR 990 only per annum which is very nominal as compared to the exposure you will get. We are sure that you will take benefit of the same and register at the earliest.

NEWS

Global Yarn and Fabric Output up in Q2/2014 Estimates (Q3/2014) and Outlook (Q4/2014)for Global Yarn and Fabric Output are Positive

Global yarn production increased in Q2/2014 compared to the previous quarter due to higher output in Asia, South and North America and despite a drop in Europe. Also on an annual basis yarn production increased though only as a result of higher output in Asia with South America, North America and Europe recording reductions. It has to be pointed out that Asia's production is traditional significantly higher in the second quarter compared to the first one as a result of fewer working days in China in the first quarter due to the Chinese New Year holidays. Worldwide yarn stocks remained practically unchanged in Q2/2014 in comparison to the previous quarter with stocks falling in South America and Europe which were offset by higher inventories in Asia. Yearon-year global yarn stocks jumped due to higher inventories in Europe and especially in Asia and in spite of plummeting inventories in South America. Yarn orders in Q2/2014 were up in Brazil but down in Europe both in comparison to the previous quarter and year-on-year.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Global fabric production rose in Q2/2014 with all regions except Europe contributing to this growth. On an annual basis world fabric production was up as well with Asia, Europe and South America recording higher output. World fabric stocks in Q2/2014 were lower due to decreases in inventories in South America and Europe, while inventories in Asia and North America increased slightly. Also on an annual basis global fabric inventories fell due to reductions in South America and Europe and despite higher inventories in Asia and North America. Fabric orders in Europe recorded a reduction in the Q2/ 2014 while they rose in Brazil. Year-on-year fabric orders were higher in Europe but lower in Brazil.

The outlook for yarn production for Q4/2014 is positive in Asia and stable in Europe. The outlook for fabric production for Q4/2014 is positive in Asia and stable in Europe. In comparison to the first quarter global yarn production increased in Q2/2014 by 15.9% due to higher output in Asia (+17.0%), South America (+5.9%) and North America (+3.5%) and irrespective of lower production in Europe (-3.2%). Also in comparison to last year's quarter global yarn output was up by +11.1%. This increase was a result of a surge in yarn production in Asia (+12.5%), while output declined in South America (14.5%), North America (-1.1%) and Europe (-0.3%). In comparison with the previous quarter world fabric production rose in Q2/2014 by+11.3%. Asia and South America recorded higher output levels (+13.2% and +2.9%, respectively), while Europe's production declined by -0.5%. Year-on-year world fabric production rose as well (+5.5%) with all regions contributing to this growth, especially Asia (+6.2%) followed by Europe (+3.7%) and South America (+0.9%). Global yarn inventories were practically unchanged (+0.1%) in Q2/2014 with Asia's inventories going up by +1.2% and South America's and Europe's falling by 9.8% and -1.2%, respectively. On an annual basis global yarn inventories jumped by +9.5% due to a surge in Asia (+13.5%) and a slight increase in Europe (+1.2%) and despite a drop in South America (-20.3%). Global fabric stocks in Q2/2014 fell by -2.4%. In South America and Europe inventories were reduced by -9.8% and -6.1%, respectively, whereas fabric stocks slightly increased in Asia (+0.7%) and in North America (+0.2%). In comparison to last year's quarter world fabric stocks decreased by -3.1% with reductions in South America (13.7%) and Europe (-4.1%) which were not offset by increases in Asia (+1.1%) and North America (+0.7%). In Q2/2014 yarn orders in Brazil were up by +7.5% and down in Europe by -4.1%. On an annual basis yarn orders increased in Brazil by +8.5% and fell in Europe by -3.1%.

Estimates for yarn production for Q3/2014 are positive in Asia, North and South America but negative in Europe.

Fabric orders in Q2/2014 rose in Brazil in comparison to the previous quarter by +7.5% but were down in comparison to last year by -2.9%. In Europe fabric orders were lower in Q2/2014 compared to Q1/2014 (-3.7%) but higher on an annual basis by +2.2%.

Estimates for fabric production for Q3/2014 are positive in Asia and South America but negative in Europe. 216

September - October 2014

NEWS

TAI spreading the image beyond the Indian Shores!

Association has organized 69 All India Textile Conferences and 2 Asian Textile Conferences and now after the grand successful World Textile Conference 2011, TAI to launch itself 3 days mega Global Textile Congress 2015 on overseas international platform to play leading role and to elevate the image globally. This mega event will be indeed first of its kind, from the point of view of Association's history. This event is going to be the first of its kind being held outside the Indian shores. Global Textile Congress 2015 "Global Textile - Opportunities & Challenges in an Integrated World" is organizing by The Textile Association (India) in association with Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB), Thailand during 13rd to 15th February, 2015 at Bangkok, Thailand. This conference would be truly an international conference which will address all issues related to the textile industry in Middle East, West Africa, Far East Region including China, Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Indonesia, South Korea, Japan, Pakistan, China, Singapore, Hong Kong & India etc. We are expecting more than 250 delegates across the world countries and about 260 delegates from India. There will be very new areas of topics. Conference will address High profile experts from various countries such as China, USA, Singapore & Thailand etc. and very meaningful panel discussion will cover Global Business Environment. This Global Conference will be unique and very much different from any other conferences wherein Global Textile topics and panel discussions will take place along with business meet (B2B) from many corporate houses. Most of the speakers will be from International business tycoon. Thailand Textile Institute (THTI) is the Knowledge Partner for this event which is a non-profit organization with the main duty to support and develop Thai textile and garment industries, with the aim towards sustainable progress and keen competitiveness in the World market. September - October 2014

We feel proud to mention that this Conference is supported by Govt. of Gujarat as Partner State and also Govt. of Karnataka, Maharashtra, Assam, Madhya Pradesh etc. are shown their interest in participating in this conference. Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, TAI announced that Global Textile Congress 2015 would be truly international conference which will address all issues related to the textile industry in Middle East, West Africa, Far East region including China, Indonesia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore & Hong Kong including India. As Global Textile Industry is heavily divided; every country has its own issues and its solution. Many times the facts are not known and therefore sufferings cannot be avoided. Of course many times the problems and its solutions are within the system. But identification becomes difficult. New Millennium changed dimensions of business and new business difficulties surfaces such as dealing with foreign exchange, shortage of labour, market conditions, collapse of economy etc. It is expected that the delegates from various organizations, Industries and segments like Ministry of Textiles, of various Countries, Corporate Companies, Representatives of Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Banking and Financial Institutions, Academic and Research Institutes, Manufacturers & Suppliers, Textile Industry Representatives, Technical & Management Advisors, Exporting and Importing Firms, Market Research organizations, Professionals in the field of Fibres, Clothing and Apparel & decision makers like CMDs, CEOs and CMOs of the Textile fraternity. Global Textile Congress will be conducted to identify global issues related to Textile Industry, discuss various problems of textile industry and draw a vision plan for 2030. In due course of time Global Textile Congress should become Global identity for addressing International Textile Issues.

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The Textile Association (India), the foremost leading and largest National professionals' body of Indian textiles, having more than 23000 strong memberships is serving since last 75 years to the textile industry.

NEWS Mr. D.R. Mehta, President Emeritus mentioned that Conference aims to provide a positive interactive opportunity, where textile fraternity can benefit to enhance cumulative strength. The Textile Industry has maximum potential as the population is growing and second product we require after food is clothing, therefore the consumption of textile is going to go up. Therefore International conference can create a very positive global environment which ultimately attracts high quality sponsors and high quality speakers & participants. To develop the relation in between countries and update the trade and technology and also this will be business platform to cater business needs. Very leading industries including Man-Made Fibres Manufacturers are participating in this conference, such as Reliance, Indorama (India), Indorama (Bangkok), Asia Pacific Fibre (Indonesia), Sunflag Thailand Ltd. (Thailand) and also Jute, Silk industry are participating. Mr. R.K. Vij, Conference Chairman informed about the Topics for Panel Discussion and Oral presentation of technical papers.

There will be very meaningful panel discussion which will be mix of politicians, bankers; industrialists etc. and it can focus on Textile Industry. Very high profile International speakers like Dr. Eyal Sheffer - Israel, Prof. Jinlian Hu - Hong Kong, Prof. Jinlian Hu, Hong Kong, Dr. Kim Gandhi - Manchester, UK, Mr. Rajesh Mishra - Czech Republic, Mr. J.C. Suresh Indonesia, Mr. D. Devadas - Thailand, Mr. Xiaogang Chen - Manchester, UK, Mr. Ji?Ă MilitkĂ˝ - Czech Republic, Dr. Fawzy Sherif - Egypt, Dr. Fawzy Sherif - Egypt, Dr. Ing. Habil - Switzerland, Dr. Shubash Anand -UK, Dr. Colin Purvis - Manchester, UK and many other including Indian knowledgeable eminent speakers will present their technical papers. In order to make a truly International Conference and Global Reference Conference on Textile Industry it has combined various International Issues, various markets, economical situations, banking, highly technical issues, research, latest developments, IT in textile etc. TAI invited to participate in this Global Textile Congress and appealed to be a part of event as Congress Partner, Advertiser and delegate before you miss the opportunity. For participation & information Contact: The Textile Association (India) Tel.: +91-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

New Book Publish . Functional Finishes for Textiles Editor: Dr. Roshan Paul Dr. Roshan Paul is an alumnus of the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai and currently the Head of European Research of the Function and Care Department at the Hohenstein Institute in Germany. He is a Life Member of the Textile Association (India) and serves as a Member of the Editorial Board of the Journal of the Textile Association. The book reviews the most important fabric finishes in the textile industry. It discusses finishes designed to improve the comfort and other properties of fabrics, as well as finishes which protect the fabric or the wearer. Each chapter reviews the role of a finish, the mechanisms and chemistry behind the finish, types of finish and their methods of application, application to particu218

lar textiles, testing and future trends. This book will be an excellent resource for both R&D managers in the textile industry and academic researchers. ISBN: 9780857098399 e-ISBN: 9780857098450 Pages: 678 Published by: Woodhead Publishing Book your order with Dr. Roshan Paul E-mail: paulrosh@yahoo.com More details available at: http://store.elsevier.com/Functional-Finishes-for-Textiles/ isbn-9780857098399/ http://www.amazon.com/Functional-Finishes-TextilesPerformance-Protection/dp/085709839X September - October 2014

NEWS

Indorama: world's biggest manufacturer of PES fibres swears by Zinser

Indorama produces over 104,000 tonnes of ring yarn annually from polyester, viscose, cotton and mixedfibres. 60 percent of the yarn production is exported globally to Indorama's customers in over 75 countries.The remaining 40 percent of production goes to the domestic market. Indorama itself is responsible for aportion of downstream processing. PES at 22,500 rpm in practice As a polyester specialist, Indorama has particular expertise in the manufacture of high-quality PES yarns onring spinning machines. The Zinser 351 from Saurer is its first-choice machine."Productivity on the Zinser 351 is outstanding, because it is extremely fast, completely reliable and also easyand safe to operate thanks to EasySpin," says AnupamAgrawal, director of Indorama's Spun Yarns Division."The Zinser 351 is our number 1 machine. For example, we spin Ne 40 PES yarns on it permanently atspindle speeds of 22,500 rpm. And the yarn quality is unsurpassed." The Zinser 351 makes possible enduring yarn quality and maximum profitability based on a highly preciseand energy-efficient cutting-edge technology. Top speeds can be attained on the special Zinser high-speedspindles, which operate extremely quietly. The simple EasySpin user interface and high-performanceOptiStep spinning program support spinning at the technological limit at enduring maximum spindle speeds,without any manual adjustment being required. Zinser 351 in a linked system with Autoconer X5: the gold standard for maximum productivity Schlafhorst has been the preferred supplier for the September - October 2014

listed company for many years and has been deliveringring spinning and winding machines to Indorama since the 1980s. Around 60 Zinser 351 ring spinningmachines with nearly 100,000 spindles operate non-stop round the clock in the company's three Indonesianspinning mills. Roughly 85,000 spindles are operated automatically in a linked system with Autoconer X5 Vtypepackage winders - the gold standard when it comes to quality and productivity.

In the linked system the Zinser 351 and the Autoconer X5 operate synchronously at the same rate. Theiroutput is optimally coordinated to achieve the maximum productivity across the entire process. Bobbins andempty tubes are transported contactless in the material flow system of the spinning and winding machine,thereby protecting the yarn. The Zinser 351 produces perfect bobbins with the optimum unwinding properties in the package winding mill.The proven, technologically unrivalled winding and splicing process on the Autoconer X5 is a guarantee ofthe unique package quality that delights customers in sales and downstream processing. SPID controls every metre of yarn The interaction of the Zinser 351 and Autoconer X5 is topped off by SPID, the unique Spindle IdentificationSystem. This ensures virtually real-time unbroken quality inspection of every single metre of yarn spun.SPID analyses all yarn data acquired by the clearer and provides 100 percent quality control of the entireyarn production. "We assure our customers that every metre of yarn fully conforms to the customer'sspecifications," declares AnupamAgrawal. The methodical route to greater profitability with the Plant Control System The Indonesian company adopts a very methodical approach to increasing productivity, profitability 219

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

UEBACH-PALENBERG, GERMANY - 29.10.2014 The Indonesian company Indorama Synthetics produces 280,000 tonnes of polyester per year in the form of fibres, yarn and chips. It is considered the world's biggest producer of PES fibres. With spinning plants in Indonesia, Uzbekistan, Sri Lanka and Turkey it is also in the top ten of the most successful spinning mills in the world. The company swears by the Zinser 351 ring spinning machine and winding machine from Schlafhorst when spinning PES yarns.

NEWS andquality. Collecting and evaluating all production and quality data in full plays a central role in this, and soIndorama uses Schlafhorst's Plant Control System. The Plant Control System acquires and analyses allproduction and quality data and makes these available online to the management. "Data, data, data - that isthe secret of success," says AnupamAgrawal. "The Plant Control System from Schlafhorst renders ourspinning and winding processes more transparent. Now we know everything about our processes and canoptimise them efficiently."

reacts to movement in the market primarily bydeveloping new products. "Spinning mills are sandwiched between their clients in the textile industry and theraw material suppliers," comments AnupamAgrawal. "They cannot shape the market themselves; they mustreact extremely quickly to fashion trends, demands, the raw material situation and local conditions. We haveto remain flexible to a high degree, and so Schlafhorst is a strategic partner for us. With powerful, highlyflexible technologies like the Zinser 351, for example, we can deliver any product in any quality desiredquickly and reliably."

Success is a sequence of superb performances The company's success is based on clear differentiation from its competitors. "We inspire our customers withperformance that is unequalled across the globe," says Mr. Agrawal. "For our clients everything is important:quality, reliability, adherence to delivery schedule, consistency and service."

Indorama invests continuously in the latest technology to raise its efficiency. This applies to both theproduction facilities and its IT systems. Indorama aims to prepare its staff resources for the planned growthin the company with its own polytechnic within the next five years.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Indorama expects the high standards that it sets itself from its suppliers too. "Success is a long sequence ofsuperb performances," adds AnupamAgrawal. "It's the whole that counts, the entire team. This includes oursuppliers and above all Schlafhorst. That's because Schlafhorst is a fantastic team player, standing squarelybehind our joint success." Schlafhorst's local customer service plays an outstanding part in Indorama's "A-team", advising the companyon how to increase productivity and quality and supporting investment decisions with detailed calculations ofeconomic efficiency. Here Schlafhorst leaves nothing to chance. It employs over 450 service personnel in 20service centres and three technology centres to bolster the success of its customers worldwide. Investing in the future Indorama is pursuing an expansive future strategy. It 220

Mr. Agrawal has quite specific ideas too regarding the spinning mill machines of the future: "Our technology partnership with Schlafhorst has a tradition dating back over 30 years," he says. "And it hasa great future. We know that Schlafhorst is already working on solutions that will advance us tomorrow.Schlafhorst's engineers listen very carefully to us. They don't give up until they surprise and inspire us withunprecedented innovations." Up to date: Large contract for new fully automatic cotton compact spinning Zinser is now also number 1 for Indorama for the production of high-grade compact yarns made of cotton.The Indonesian company has just ordered a complete, fully automatic production line with over 40,000compact spindles for combed cotton in the counts Ne 20 to Ne 40 from Schlafhorst: From the Zinser Flyer670 and the Zinser 351 2Impact FX compact spinning machine up to the automatic winding machineAutoconer X5 - everything in fully automatic linked systems and from the house of Schlafhorst. For further information please contact: Birgit Jansen Communication Zinser Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstr. 60 52531 Ă&#x153;bach-Palenberg Germany T + 49 2451 905 2875 birgit.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com September - October 2014

NEWS

Manmade fiber producers rely on energy-efficient Oerlikon technology Supporting the growing bottling market

Worldwide, water is becoming increasingly scarce. The best way to keep it fresh and easy to transport, is to bottle it. Global consumption of bottled water has more than doubled in the past few years. Today, over 200 billion bottles of water are drunk every year. "Bottles made of synthetic materials have virtually replaced glass as a packaging material for water and other drinks," says Michael Scholz, Project Manager at OerlikonBarmag in Remscheid. Bottles made of synthetic polyethylene terephthalate (PET) are not only practical and unbreakable: because of their low weight, transporting them, also consumes less energy. A further advantage is that the material can be easily recycled. Beverage bottles are probably the best-known use for PET, but certainly not the only one: more than half of the annual production of 45 million tons is processed to manmade fibers. These are wrinkle-free and tear-resistant and absorb very little water. They are therefore also ideal for clothing that needs to dry quickly. Such fibers are also used in so-called geotextiles for stabilizing roads and dams. OerlikonBarmag, a division of the Oerlikon Group's Manmade Fibers Segment, has unique know-how in the manufacturing of equipment for the production of these manmade fibers. Worldwide demand for synthetic materials continues to rise "As this practical material is very much in demand for textiles as also for packaging, many companies are September - October 2014

investing in the expansion of production capacities," says Scholz. A consortium of Indian and Egyptian investors decided to establish them in this growth market. The target of the Egyptian Indian Polyester Company (EIPET) was, to set up a facility manufacturing granulate for synthetic bottles in Egypt, with a capacity of 1500 tons per day. Based on their experience for the requirements necessary for the production of man-made fibers, OerlikonBarmag was able to optimally cover EIPET's needs: The proven Oerlikon technology led to significant energy savings and a sustainable reduction in operating costs. Oerlikon, as a contractor, was also able to offer the construction of the plant from the planning stage through to commissioning from one source. Worldwide, the Manmade Fibers Segment has completed three polycondensation facilities with a total of seven production lines. In two of these projects, the segment acted as general contractor. Successfully transferring expertise from the manmade fiber industry PET is obtained from organic raw materials using a multistep chemical process. Here, terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol are mixed with certain additives to generate a reaction. "The high temperatures and vacuum generated within these so-called polycondensation plants, transform the raw materials into polymers," explains Scholz. As the technology used in the manufacturing of bottle granulates is largely identical with that used for manmade fibers, Oerlikon benefited from their know-how from this sector when engineering the plant. During the filament production, polymer melt, in liquid form, is led to the spinnerets. For bottle-grade granulate, the melt is cooled in a water bath, and the strands produced are chopped up into small chips. Another difference is the higher viscosity of the melt. The plant therefore has an additional process step, during which the viscosity of the synthetic material is increased. The most important requirement is low energy consumption Synthetic materials production is a growing market. Nevertheless, the manufacturers are locked in an intense worldwide competition and constantly searching for ways of increasing their profitability. Their greatest 221

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Remscheid, 07 November 2014 - With the drastic increase in world population, drinking water is a scarce resource. Optimum conservation and an efficient transport are all the more important for these precious resources. The light, unbreakable PET bottle is in this case the first choice. Investment in production facilities for the synthetic granulates out of which the bottles are made, is particularly high in the emerging nations. With its high level of technological expertise in the production and handling of synthetic materials such as man-made fibers, OerlikonBarmag has enabled a customer in Egypt to establish himself in the growing market for bottle-grade granulate by constructing a plant from the planning to the commissioning.

NEWS priority is cutting operating costs, mainly by reducing energy consumption. With a special technology developed by OerlikonBarmag, the hot steam, generated during the manufacturing process, can be used to produce cold water. "This socalled vapor absorption distiller, significantly reduces the plant's energy consumption," explains Scholz. On top of this, OerlikonBarmag's technology has a high conversion rate and creates relatively little waste. Operators thus attain a substantially higher margin and are more competitive. In addition, the plant technology enables manufacturers to use a certain amount of recycled synthetic material in the production process, resulting in a reduced need for raw materials. OerlikonBarmag assumed overall responsibility for planning and construction A second requirement from customers, particularly in the emerging countries, is the competence, to, as a general contractor, be able to offer such a plant from planning to commissioning. The customers themselves do not have the necessary know-how. At the same time, they wish to minimize the risks inevitably involved with large-scale projects. EIPET, also only wanted to negotiate the investment with a single partner. "That is why, we planned the complete facility, procured the parts and supervised the building of the plant" sums up Scholz.

At OerlikonBarmag, a team of 30 engineers was responsible for the project. The detailed planning was carried out together with an engineering company in India. All the components, such as reactors, filters, heating elements, vacuum systems, piping, valves, sensors and control units, were procured from suppliers in various countries. During the subsequent building phase, up to 700 specialists worked on the site. The turnkey plant was handed over to EIPET at the beginning of 2014. "The successful completion of such a complex planning and construction project within a defined budget, not only calls for reliable and proven plant technology, but also a highly professional project management," summarizes Scholz. Thanks to their technological expertise and experience from numerous similar projects worldwide, OerlikonBarmag enabled EIPET to successfully enter the bottle-grade granulates market. Click here to download the highres file For further information please contact: AndrĂŠ Wissenberg Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment T +49 2191 67 2331, F +49 2191 67 1294 E-mail: andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com Website: www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

New Book Published

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TEXTILE DYES AND DYEING Author: Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Dr. Mahapatra is a B.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, Mumbai. He also holds aM.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University, Orissa. He did his M.B.A. from I.M.M., Kolkata. Dr. Mahapatra is having 29 years of experience in textile industries in India and Abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birlas (both Aditya Birla and K.K. Birla group), Reliance, Raymond (Kenya), Churchgate Group (Nigeria), GSL (formerly Gujarat Spinners Ltd.), LNJ Bhilwara (RSWM) Group and HindprakashLonsen Industries, Ahmedabad in various senior capacities. This book is written based on the 30 years practical experience of the author working in various textile mills (Dye House) in India and abroad. This book will be very useful to textile students to know how various processes work practically in the textile industries. It will be also 222

helpful to supervisors working on the shop floor of various dye houses and process houses. The book deals with almost all types of dyes mainly used in textile industries. The Dyes application in various types of substrate / fibre is also highlighted. It also mentions about the pigments and optical whiteners. The author explains one of the latest subjects in Printing known as Ink Jet Printing. Some new developments of Reactive Dyes like Fluorine based chemistry are also discussed. From Eco friendly point of view Reactive Dyes for wool is alsomentioned. ISBN: 978-93-313-2419-1 Pages: 270 Rs. 1495/Published by: APH publishing Corporation Book your order with Dr. K.B. Nangia E-mail: aphbooks@gmail.com September - October 2014

NEWS

OTM 2014 Middle East Textile Machinery Exhibition Werehosted 16.000 Local & International Visitors OTM 2014 Middle East Textile Machinery Exhibition organized by the cooperation of Tüyap and TeknikFuarcl, by the support of TEMSAD and by collaboration of Gaziantep Metropolitan Municipality, Gaziantep Chamber of Industry, Gaziantep Chamber of Commerce and Middle East Exhibition Center,on dates 16-19 October 2014 were hosted 16.000 visitors.

Adil Nalbant and with the administrative authorities of provincial, the establishment of the sectorwith a ceremony on date 16th of October 2014. The authorities making speech at the ceremony expressed their contentment for the organization of such an extensive and largeexhibition in Gaziantep. They emphasized that they would take the responsibility of international promotion of the OTM Exhibitionand make it a worldwide brand and they stated that they would do their best for its continuity. VISITORS CAME FROM ALL OVER THE TURKEY OTM 2014 Exhibition, welcomed from all across Turkey's textile and apparel sector investors on the 2nd day as well, not only from theregion. In the exhibition 560 exhibitors from 30 countries exhibited their latest technologies, Visitors come from all over Turkey to the exhibition and attract attention, especially Kahramanmaras, Gaziantep, Istanbul, Adana, Malatya, Kayseri, Bursa, Adiyaman, Sanliurfa, Nigde, Hatay, Izmir, Mersin, Kocaeli, Usak, Tekirdag, Batman, Diyarbakir, Isparta,Denizli, Konya, Yalova, Osmaniye, Kilis, Van, Sirnak, Çorlu, Çerkezköy, Bolu, Tokat, Igdir, Ankara.

OTM 2014 Middle East Textile Machinery Exhibition was opened with the attendance of member of the Turkish Parliament Mr. Nejat Koçer, Governor of the Gaziantep Mr. Erdal Ata, Metropolitan municipality mayor of the Gaziantep Mrs. Fatma Sahin, Chairman of Gaziantep Chamber of industry Mr. Adil Konukoglu, Chairman of the chamber of commerce Mr. Eyüp Bartk, Chairman of theOrganized industrial zone of the Gaziantep Mr. CahitNakiboglu, Chairman of the board of Middle East Carpet Exporters' AssociationMr. Selahattin Kaplan, President of Fashion and Apparel federation Hüseyin Öztürk, Chairman of Turkish Textile Machinery Industrialist'Association(TEMSAD) Mr. September - October 2014

Textsmile Husband was throwing knives on wife's photo. All were missing the target! Suddenly he received a call from his wife Wife: "hi, what are you doing?" His honest reply, "Missing You!" 223

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Visitors from abroad were listed as follows according to the country: Syria, Iran, Uzbekistan, Germany, Tunisia, Iraq, Libya, China,Georgia, Thailand, Belgium, Cyprus, Ukraine, Yemen, England, France, Iceland, Indonesia, India, Sweden, Kazakhstan, Japan, Jordan,Macedonia, Australia, Andorra.

NEWS

PICANOL AT IGATEX 2014 From 21 - 24 October 2014, Picanol participated in the 8th edition of IGATEX, the garment & textile machinery exhibition staged in Lahore, Pakistan. The Picanol booth was organized by Mr. JamilGhauri, Managing Director of Ghauri Enterprises, who represents Picanol in Northern Pakistan (Punjab & KPK). And the team working on the stand included Area Sales Manager Mr. Bruno Caffieri, Resident Service Manager Mr. Blacker Clinton and Spare Parts Sales Manager Mr. Robert Brown. Machine sales, technical services and spare parts services are the three essential foundations required to properly serve an important market like Pakistan. The textile sector is the largest industry in the country and is continuing to grow, which means there is plenty of potential for new investment. Picanol has always been an important player in the context of Pakistan's weaving sector. In the last five years it has delivered more than 2,000 of the latestgeneration OMNIplusSummumairjet and OptiMax rapier weaving machines to Pakistani weavers. Picanol's commitment to Pakistan was further evidenced by the constructive meetings that it held at IGATEX, which involved almost all of the leading textile companies from Pakistan. In a country where there is a shortage of electricity, especially in the north, the energy-saving

features of Picanol's latest products are proving to be particularly attractive for Pakistani customers. Furthermore, Pakistan is an ideal testing ground for Picanol to push its machines to the maximum performance level possible. This is thanks to the quality of the local cotton, the state-of-the-art spinning and preparatory machines, and - last but not least - the entrepreneurial spirit and great professionalism of the managers and the hard-working culture of the Pakistani people. Together with Mr. Jamil Ghauri, who covers the territory in the North of the country, Picanol's newly appointed Karachi agent Mr. Amir Madhani, who will be responsible for the South of the country, and the local expert technical engineers headed by Mr. Blacker Clinton, Picanol has a highly committed team that will continue to proudly serve one of the most dynamic textile countries in the world. You can find a selection of customer testimonials at: http://fittowin.picanol.be/ You can view an interview with Bruno Caffieri at: h t t p : / / y o u t u . b e / B b Wr g o p 3 r S U ? l i s t = U U Q 3 CmMz3A8Cq7hGiJXfFWg

12th INTERNATIONAL & 70th ALL INDIA TEXTILE CONFERENCE

"Cotton, Textile & Apparel Value & Chain : Global Opportunities & Challenges"

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

VIDARBHA

The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha Unit is organizing 12th International& 70thAll India Textile Conference again after its enormous success in 1979 & 2006 on 17th & 18thJanuary 2015 at Dr.Vasantrao Deshpande Auditorium, Nagpur. The theme of the conference is "COTTON, TEXTILE & APPAREL VALUE & SUPPLY CHAIN: GLOBAL OPPORTUNITIES& CHALLENGES" covering whole gamut of textile & clothing industry. This conference theme can foresee a desired development at every stage from fibreto fashion and translate the thought process into action to achieve value added growth. This conference will boost confidence of existing & 224

budding entrepreneurs to act as change agents and develop integrated framework to make Vidarbha as a future Textile and Garment Hub of the country. Mr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman & Hon. Secretary of TAI Vidarbha Unit informed that through this conference we will create positive environment to attract industrial growth in all sectors of textile value addition by using effective supply chain management to caSeptember - October 2014

NEWS ter the business needs of all the sectors from fibre to fashion. He emphasized on conference objective to boost confidence of local entrepreneurs by capitalizing and utilizing available regional resources by working hand in hand with mutual collaboration for the prosperity of the region and to attract positive skyrocketing growth & investments in Vidarbha from industry leaders from all across the world. He informed that the high quality of sponsors, speakers and delegates from entire textile value chain will participate in this two day's conference to demonstrate their product and service excellence. This focused approach will compliment and strengthen a direct growth impact on all allied sectors with substantial huge value addition at each stage of processing from raw material to the highest value added products. Informing about Vidarbha's tremendous potential for all round value added growth strength as a strategic location with quality land, irrigation facilities, connectivity and human resource availability, he said that conference will boost confidence of existing & budding entrepreneurs to act as change agents and develop integrated framework to make Vidarbha as a future Textile and Garment Hub of the country by encouraging investment at future global logistic hub with upcoming MIHAN (Multimodal International Hub Airport project. HemantSonare further informed that conference will address societal issues like farmer's distress by adopting value added manufacturing & retail led growth dynamics for employment generation, economic development and prosperity of the region. Mr. R.K. Dubey, President of TAI Vidarbha Unit informed that this conference will provide an excellent opportunity for companies to gain global visibility and

publicity by promotion of products and services to a highly focused audience and networking with the participants from various parts of the world. He further expressed that sponsoring this conference will provide an unique opportunity to connect with entire textile community and will put the company name in front of mass prospective customers and will enhance the company brand awareness S.P.Gadge, D.S.Kulkarni, Ajay Ghorpade, R.K. Mishra, Mohan Ghokhale, L.S. Nagda, Brijmohan Agrawal, Amarjeet Singh, Ram Ghate, Pravin Yerawar & Jayant Nagrare -Chairman's of various Program Committees informed that the topics for presentation and panel discussion will be very meaningful to make a truly international conference by high profile speakers from various parts of the country & the world .They informed about an promising platform for business an Exhibition which will showcase the products and services to a targeted audience and visitors from all over India& the world. HemantSonare expects more than 900 delegates comprising senior members, decision makers, and reputed textile professionals. Further he requested to participate without missing and appealed to extend the support by Sponsorship, Booking the Advertisement and enrolling the Delegates in large. He said that this conference will provide solutions keeping in view the various changes in textile & clothing industry on the domestic and international fronts and suggest new road map for the growth in Textile clothing sector. For further information contact M.: 09860930380, E-mail taividarbhainfo@gmail.com or Website: www.textileaccociationvidarbha.com

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

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Lakshmi Machine Works

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A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

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Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

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AATCC

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Reliance Industries Ltd.

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All India textile Conference

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Rieter India Ltd.

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Alpenol

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SSP Pvt. Ltd.

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Global Textile Congress

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Unitech Techmech

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GTTES 2015

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Veejay Lakshmi Engineering Works

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InFashion

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ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

NEWS

Rieter Communicates with Indian Customers by series of Sales Symposia Rieter successfully generated interest in Indian customers with its series of sales symposia at seven places across India. The symposia had an overwhelming response of customers from all the regions with more than 2 000 participants. The purpose of the symposia was to showcase latest innovation in products in Ring and Rotor spinning technologies. Event Highlights The program included the topics as per the need of Indian customers across every region. The topics were streamlined in the manner as like - Overview to Rieter products which showcased Rieter as a competent partner, dedicated to making customers lives easier by offering Valuable Systems, Convincing Technology and Supportive Partnership. In the technical session, had a detailed presentation on latest innovation in Compact spinning under the topic "Economical production of fully compacted yarn" in which customers were informed how Rieter sets the standard for ideal compacting and offers greatest flexibility for quality with economy. In addition Rotor spinning machines R 35 and R 60 were explained under the topic "Lowest yarn manufacturing cost with R 60 and Investment economy with R 35" were they felt convinced about their unique features as Productivity, Flexibility, Quality &Economy?

sound basis to choose the right spinning technology for their application. Together with Rieter and its 4 spinning systems customer will find the best solution to meet the economic demands of their spinning plant.

Over-whelming customer participation

Customer experience is the next competitive battleground Rieter with its facts and figures in the presentation was set well to face the battleground of experienced customers of India. The high interest of the participants was felt with numerous queries raised by them. The distinguished panel of speakers and specialists from India & Switzerland from all functional areas - Sales, Products, Technology& Service were available to answer them. Let us know Rieter Better As the name suggest, the program became more interactive by this activity, in which active participation of the customers made the program more interesting. At the end of the program, the lucky winners from the participants were appreciated with a souvenir.

The Textile Association (India) Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org

Panel of Speakers with other specialists during questions and answers session

In the technological session, "Technological comparison between four different end spinning systems" was presented. The information presented give customers a 226

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Rieter New Partner of the Sustainability Initiative "BLUE COMPETENCE" As the leading supplier for textile machinery and components, Rieter focuses on low energy consumption and high raw material utilization in the development of spinning machines. Customers thus profit from sustainably-producing machines. With its sustainability solutions, the Company fulfils the criteria of the VDMA sustainability initiative "Blue Competence": with immediate effect, Rieter belongs to the circle of the "Blue Competence" partners.

The efforts which Rieter has undertaken in recent years to produce sustainable spinning machinery and components are now expressed in the label of the "Blue Competence" initiative. With fulfilment of the requirements of the sustainability initiative, Rieter has been immediately appointed as a member of "Blue Competence". Which measures Rieter has implemented to secure sustainability are to be found in the Sustainability Report? This has been published 2014 for the third time in succession. Blue Competence

Rieter is a partner of the sustainability initiative "Blue Competence"

Spinning machinery and components, which allow customers to produce energy-efficient, high-quality yarns, have been the focus of development at Rieter for decades. Rieter machines maximally utilize the valuable raw materials and therefore reduce raw material loss.

Blue Competence is the sustainability platform of the European machinery and plant construction sectors. More than 400 companies are Blue Competence partners. The partners of the initiative fulfil the eight Blue Competence sustainability criteria and commit themselves to uphold a joint sustainability code. With their corporate responsibility, they want to contribute towards a viable future with sustainable, energy and resourceefficient technologies. For Blue Competence partners, sustainability is a competitive factor.

Focus on innovation, expansion of parts business and increase of profitability - adjusted medium-term financial targets - outlook for 2014 confirmed Following on the 2012/2013 investment program and the resulting enhancement of its global presence, Rieteris setting new priorities in the implementation of its strategy. The strategic objective of being the world'sleading supplier of short staple spinning systems offering the full range of machines, components and partsremains unchanged. Rieter will continue in future to differentiate itself through its systems expertise, valuecreatinginnovative solutions, after sales excellence and the worldwide availability of its product and serviceoffering. The priorities for the next three years will be the furSeptember - October 2014

ther reinforcement of its innovative capabilities and theexpansion of its product and service offering, especially in parts and components. Additional resources forresearch and development are being budgeted for this purpose. Rieter will also take action to optimise theutilisation of existing capacity, improve product margins and reduce structural costs. Rieter will thus be in the position to continue deriving above-average benefit from the market trend in demandtowards products featuring higher levels of automation, productivity and energy-efficiency. Rieter intends togrow faster than the market. Adjusted medium-term financial targets At the same time Rieter will create shareholder value with its medium-term profitability target of an 227

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Rieter sets priorities in the implementation of its strategy

NEWS EBITmargin of about 10% of sales and a RONA (Return On Net Assets) of about 14%. With ongoing annual growthin fibre consumption of 2-3%, the present currency environment, current raw material prices and its existingproduct and service portfolio, Rieter believes it can achieve its profitability target in the medium term withsales of some 1.3 billion CHF. Rieter intends to distribute some 30% of net profits as dividends. Market environment and outlook Spinning mills' narrowing margins due to declining raw material and yarn prices in the third quarter haveresulted in a slowdown in market momentum, especially in Turkey, the Asian countries (without China andIndia) and Latin America. The slightly positive momentum in India was maintained in the third quarter, whilethe restraint in China continued. The lower overall utilization of spinning mill capacity has also resulted inreduced demand for spare and wear and tear parts. In this more challenging market environment Rieterrecorded accumulated order intake of slightly over 900 million CHF up to the end of the third quarter.Rieter expects for the second half of 2014 a market demand on lower levels than in the strong first semester. Demand depends among other factors on the development of yarn and raw materials prices, currency exchange rates, financing costs, and global consumer sentiment.Based on the current order backlog - of which a substantial share already reaches into 2015 - full year salesfor 2014 are expected to show at least high single digit growth compared to 2013. Operational profitability(EBIT) in 2014 will be positively impacted by volume growth, whereas additional costs of 10 million CHF forconclusions of the IT-assisted processes project, low airjet capacity utilization and lower order backlogmargins than in the second semester 2013 are

expected to have an adverse impact also in the secondsemester 2014. All in all, Rieter expects for the year 2014 a higher operating result (EBIT) than in 2013. Presentation material Complete presentation material and the media release can be found at www.rieter.com (http://www.rieter.com /de/rieter/medien/mediencommuniques/). You can also register at www.rieter.com toreceive our media releases regularly by e-mail. Forthcoming dates ◆ Publication of sales figures for the 2014 financial year: February 4, 2015 ◆ Results press conference and presentation for financial analysts on the 2014 annual results: March 18, 2015 ◆ Annual General Meeting 2015: April 16, 2015 For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Rieter Management Ltd. Investor Relations Media Relations JorisGröflin Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comCornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Central Office The Office of TAI Central Office is again temporarily shifted to the following new address. The 'SANTOSH' Building is still under redevelopment and reconstruction process.

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Ground Floor, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, taicnt@mtnl.net.in 228

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NEWS

The Second Rieter Com4®Yarn Seminar China - Again a Contribution to the Success in Yarn Trading After the gratifying response to the first yarn seminar, the second Com4® Yarn Seminar China was held on September 18 & 19 in Rieter's Changzhou Plant II. The yarn seminar focuses on the requirements of yarn buyers, sellers and traders. The participants thus benefit from Rieter's leading expertise in the textile industry which they can efficiently apply in yarn trading.

Visit to the Air-Jet Spinning Line at Yangtse ZhangjiagangYangtse Spinning Co., Ltd. is the first Rieter customer in China to receive the Com4®jet licence. The participants viewed the complete production line at Yangtse, which consists of the high-performance Rieter machines C 601 Card, SB-D 45 and RSB-D 45 draw frames as well as the J 20 air-jet spinning machines producing an outstanding Com4®jet yarn. The seminar provided the participants with an opportunity to exchange information and to cultivate business communication. Additionally, the seminar established a link between the Rieter reference customer and yarn traders, buyers and sellers.

Hands-on machines in the new SpinCentre aroused great interest

The participants were deeply impressed by Rieter's assembly line and highly convinced by the high quality Com4® yarn produced by the Rieter spinning machines.

Visiting the air-jet spinning line at ZhangjiagangYangtse Spinning Co., Ltd.

Further Com4® yarn seminars will continue to be held in Winterthur, China and India. If you are interested in participating in a Com4® yarn seminar in China, Journal of the TEXTILE Association

During the 2-day seminar, the participants were presented with extensive information on these important topics: 4 yarn spinning technologies, yarn characteristics and different behaviour in the downstream process, typical applications and end products. Hands-on spinning machines in the new Spin Centre and the comparison of typical end products in the showroom provided a good combination of theory and practice that helped the participants to better understand and assimilate the knowledge.

For further information please contact: lisa.li@who-needs-spam.rieter.com.

Texttreasure

The comparison of fabric samples and end products in the new showroom September - October 2014

Take risks in your life - if you win, you can lead. If you loose, you can guide. - Swami Vivekananda 229

NEWS

Residential Training for "Developing IncomeGenerating Enterprise for NGOs" "Helping people improve their lives by producing and distributing products and services in culturally sensitive & economically sustainable ways" VAITARNA has committed to promote craft through Vocational Skill training incorporated with Entrepreneurial skills. They are working with an ambition to really contribute to the marginal class in society and promoting entrepreneur skills in them. VAITARNA has organized 11-Day Residential Training for Developing Income-Generating Enterprise for NGOs" based on the training Manual "Empowerment through Enterprise" by Prof Malcolm Harper.

◆

Trainers, involved in the training department of NGOs / institutions which offers training for staff of many different NGOs or other institutions involved in this field.

The sessions in this ten and a half day unique course lead from consideration of the management of microenterprises to the management of NGOs themselves. The sequences of the course are moves from clients' micro-enterprises through to the appreciation of NGOs themselves as enterprises. The course includes a number of sessions which together make up the 'enterprise experience', which provides the participants with an opportunity actually to start, manage and conclude a micro-enterprise using their own money, during the course itself. Date :21st to 31st December'2014 Venue :VaitarnaVihar, Dahanu, Maharashtra. Participation :Rs. 30,000/Faculty : Dr. ManjulaJagatramka supported by Professionals from Academia & Industry Note: Prior Registration is must. Last Date for Registration: 5th December'2014

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Objective of this intensive workshop is to assist marginalized people to start or sustain micro-enterprises. This unique workshop is useful to professionals whose work involves assisting grass-root /marginalized/BPL people's efforts to improve their income through selfemployment and also to empower marginalized community to start and efficiently manage micro-enterprises. Prospective Participants ◆ Professionals, whose work involve assisting grassroot / marginalized/BPL people's efforts to improve their income through self-employment. ◆ Individuals, who wish to train others to assist poor people to increase their incomes through microenterprise. ◆ NGO staff, assisting micro-enterprises, government staff, bankers or employees of larger private enterprises which run programme's to help micro-enterprises 230

VAITARNA has requested to kindly nominate employees / social workers who would hugely benefit from this very unique training cum workshop and encourage our sincere efforts. Payment Details : Rs.30, 000/- (Rupees Thirty thousand only) Name of the Bank : Saraswat Bank Name of The Branch : Juhu Branch Name of the Account : VAITARNA Current Account Number : 0012100100003861 IFSC Code : SRC80000012 For further information please contact: VAITARNA CENTRE A-24, Kalumal Estate, A.B. Nair Road, Opposite Juhu Post Office Mumbai - 400 049 Tel.: 022-26241102 Website: www.vaitarna.com September - October 2014

NEWS

Dr. (Ms.) Manjula Jagatramka

A thorough Social Entrepreneur, Dr. (Ms.) ManjulaJagatramka has been dedicated towards the economic empowerment of underprivileged woman through her various training activities at the grass-root. She is an institution in herself. A Doctorate in Textiles and Clothing, Dr. Manjula is currently the Dean of JJT University, and also enjoys the stature of being on the working group of CII in Handlooms and Handicrafts. She has been trained in Entrepreneurship & Business Management for Voluntary Service Organizations at NMIMS. A Post Graduate Diploma holder in CSR and Ethical Business Management from ICCSR, she has carved a place of prominence for herself in Third Sector Fraternity. Speaker on various International and National rostrums, Manjula has represented Indian woman in countries like Japan and United Kingdom. September - October 2014

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Educated at Oxford, Harvard and Nairobi, Malcolm Harper, worked in marketing inEngland, and then taught at the University of Nairobi. He was Professor of Enterprise Development at Cranfield in the UK, and since 1995 he has worked independently, mainly in India. He has published on enterprise development, microfinance and livelihoods, and on child protection. He has worked on poverty issues in South and SE Asia, Africa. Educated at Oxford, Harvard and Nairobi, Malcolm Harper, worked in marketing in England, and then taught at the University of Nairobi. He was Professor of Enterprise Development at Cranfield in the UK, and since 1995 he has worked independently, mainly in India. He has published on enterprise development, micro-finance and livelihoods, and on child protection. He has worked on poverty issues in South and SE Asia, Africa.

www.textileassociationindia.org

Dr. Malcolm Harper

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion

Brief profile

NEWS

FICCI TAG 2014 Conference concluded successfully FICCI TAG 2014 Conference took place on November 18, 2014 in Mumbai which was focused on Driving Growth through Innovation in the textile and apparel industry. A white paper on "Driving Growth through Innovation" Prepared by FICCI and Wazir was also released during the conference. The conference kick starts with the welcome address by Mr. Deepak Mukhi, Head, FICCI-Maharashtra State Council. In his welcome address, he informed that India ranks at 76th position among 143 countries in the global innovation index 2014. These certainly suggest India requires lot of efforts to be made in R& D and product development.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R: Mr. Deepak Mukhi, Head, FICCI - MSC, Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, Subgroup on Textile & Technical Textiles, FICCI - MSC, Mr. DilipJiwrajka, Managing Director, Alok Industries Ltd, Mr. PrashantAgarwal, Jt. Managing Director, Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, Subgroup on Textile & Technical Textiles, FICCI - MSC in his address requested the textile industry entrepreneurs to put efforts to made the Indian textile industry innovative and take this industry to the new of heights of the success.

novative technology which ultimately gave you the right product with right price which is the important where company's profits come out.

In the panel discussion on the Product, Process and Systems Innovation - The Success Mantra, eminent panelists from different sectors discussed about the innovations taking place in textile and apparel industry around the globe from fibre to finished goods stage. The panellists such as Mr. DilipJiwrajka, Alok Industries, Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Mafatlal Industries, Mr. S SAich, Welspun India, Mr. MohitMarwaha, INVISTA, Mr. JayantKhera, Novozymes South Asia, deliberated on how innovation is the backbone of success in changing global scenario and how their companies have innovated product, process or systems to remain competitive and contemporary. In the panel discussion on the Achieving Excellence in Today's Competitive World, panelists such as Mr. ArindamSaha, Wazir Advisors, Mr. Anil Rajvanshi, Reliance Industries, Mr. Vinu Sudan, Brandix India Apparel City, Mr. Manohar Samuel, Birla Cellulose and Mr. Yogesh Mehta, WelspunZucchi Textiles, discussed about the competition in the export and domestic market and how successful manufacturers have grown their market share through a core strategy to excel.

In the theme presentation, Mr. PrashantAgarwal, Jt. Managing Director, Wazir Advisors Pvt Ltd discussed about the importance of the innovation in the today's business. This is right time where every textile company in the entire value chain should focus on the innovation to bring the business excellence. Mr. DilipJiwrajka, Managing Director, Alok Industries Ltd stated that each company should invest in the in232

In the last session speakers like Mr. AvinashMayekar, Suvin Advisors, Mr. Ashish Sharma, Truetzschler India, September - October 2014

NEWS Mr. Peter Obrist, Karl Mayer and Mr. NavinAgrawal, A.T.E. Enterprises talked about the Role of Technology to Improve Productivity and Product Quality. With increase in manufacturing costs globally, businesses are focusing more on enhancing productivity to improve the bottom line and new technology is playing key role in achieving it.

The major points which came out in the conference was innovation is necessary not the choice in this competitive world and have to build up same culture in the companies. Textile industry needs to act as one unit and the entire value chain should come together to raise their agenda in a single voice. Customer is kings and look at their need so that companies will know from customers what to innovate and work backward accordingly. India is not less innovative in nature but obviously its need to be spread entire value chain of textile industry. As a country we have the strength but we have leverage it to further. Technology is for survival so we have to use the latest and innovative technology to be competitive in the market and build up the innovative technologies more and more.

Now Read Online Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Ground Floor, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4974

E-mail:taicnt@mtnl.net.in, taicnt@gmail.com September - October 2014

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NEWS

New Office Bearers of Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Senthilkumar is the Managing Director of Simta Machinery Pvt. Ltd. and Indo Germen Joint Venture a well-known manufacturer of Simta Jacobi Travelling Cleaner, Bobbin Transport System, Spindle tapes, Flocked Clearer Rollers for Textile Industry. He is one of the Mr. S. Senthilkumar Promotions of SIMTA Group which President is now 25 years old. Also the member of Indian Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Coimbatore & Coimbatore District Small Industries Association (Codissia). He joined with ITAMMA 15 years back and is Managing Committee for 13 years and is involved in manufacturing of uPVC window profiles and windows. Tel.: 0422-2680705 (Office), Fax: 0422-2317434 E-mail: director@simta.com Mr. Mayank Jayantilal Roy, Managing Director of Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, manufacturing Mechanical Power Transmission Products, Speed Variators especially, PIV Gear Boxes for more than three decades. He is a member of Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' AsMr. Mayank J. Roy First Vice-President sociation (ITAMMA) and serving in Managing Committee of ITAMMA for more than a decade. His main motto to serve ITAMMA is to bring ITAMMA to greater heights by following the footsteps of his father late Mr. Jayantilal Roy, who had rendered remarkable, services to the Association during his tenure as Trustee & President. Mr. Roy has on his agenda at ITAMMA to make the "J.G. Roy Endowment Fund" more pro-active. In his Social responsibilities, Mr. Mayank Jayantilal Roy is the Chairman in his residential society for more than 4 years; and is socially connected with Lions Club of Juhu, Mumbai, for more than three decades. He is an active participating member in Jain Mahila Samaj Mandal, Juhu, Mumbai. Tel.: 022-22621943 (Office), Fax: 022-22661545 E-mail: mjrum06@gmail.com 234

Currently, Managing Director of Basant Wire Industries, a leading manufacturer of Pins and Pinned products for textile machinery, Mr. Kishore Khaitan has work experience of over 35 years in manufacturing and international marketing of Mr. Kishore Khaitan engineering products. He has exSecond Vice President tensive experience in government policy advocacy, being active in CII for many years. Besides more than 12 years as member of managing committee in ITAMMA, holding positions such as sub-committee chairman, regional chairman and export cell chairman, Mr. Khaitan has been Chairman of CII Rajasthan in 2009-10. He is currently member CII Northern Regional council, Chairman; Indian Green Building Council, Jaipur chapter; member CII national Textile Committee; member Indo American Chamber of Commerce; Chairman, IMC of ITI Jaipur; Patron Member of TAI, besides playing an active role in social organisations like Friends of Tribals Society as executive member. His other business interests include Gram Power, a USA and Indian based company engaged in the renewable energy sector, setting up smart micro-grids in rural areas with Solar power generation. Tel.: 0141-2460710, 2460792, Fax: 0141-2460510 E-mail: mail@bwipins.com, kkhaitan@bwipins.com Mr. Kaizar Mahuwala, Executive Director of Gurjar Group of companies who manufactures complete range of Nickel Perforated Rotary Screens, Engraving Chemicals, Auxiliaries and laser - Inkjet Engraving solutions. Gurjar Group established in the year 1956 and was a pioneer Mr. Kaizar in manufacturing of Galvano Z. Mahuwala Hon' Treasurer screens since year 1972 and also maintained a legacy of developing import substitutes to serve the Indian textile industry. Mr. Mahuwala has a vast and rich experience in manufacturing and international business and has extensively traveled to more than 20 countries. He is actively associated with ITAMMA since the year 2002 and has served as the Convener of the Ahmedabad export cell since 2004 and has been the managing committee September - October 2014

NEWS member since 2006. ITAMMA's first Export Cell activity started from his office in the year 2002 wherein he provided the Stateof -the Art Infrastructure such as a table space, computer and internet facility for smoothly carrying out the

activities of this initiative. He is associated with many other associations and chambers and has served as Chairman of Indo-American Chamber of Commerce, Gujarat Branch in the year 2008-2009. Tel.: 079-22872225, Fax: 079-22872609 E-mail: kaizar@gurjargroup.com, kaizar4@gmail.com

NMIMS successfully organizes Modernization Program to Solapur Terry Towel Entrepreneurs

Dr. P.P. Raichurkar explained the importance of exportin the textile industry. Dr. N.N. Mahapatra,Vice-President (Business Development) COLORANT LTD, Ahmedabad advised criticality of compliance for the textile processing industry. Various industry Personnel such as Mr. RajendraGhatage and Mr. Deepak Karadefrom Associated Textile Engineering Enterprises (ATE), Mr.N.R. Bhatt from NR Laboratories,Mr. Sumit Gupta from GOTS Mumbai, Dr. Vijay Joshi from entrepreneurship development institute Nagpur delivered knowledge packed sessions.The CTF faculty led by Dr. Vishnu Dorugade complemented the efforts of the industry experts.

Textsmile Teacher: Tell me a name of a place; where there are lots of people still you feel lonely. Student: Sir, Exam Hall! September - October 2014

The conference was aimed at facilitating scaling up of the Terry towel entrepreneurs. That included technology up-gradation, honing leadership skills and development of global markets, quality systems and new products. This program is but an example of progress made by Shirpur region under the leadership of ShriAmrishbhai R Patel. The Shirpur pattern of water conservation has enabled better yield of cotton and the CTF has developed expertise that can be shared with entrepreneurs from far off place like Solapur. The Center for Textile Functions (CTF) was established in 2007 to provide meaningful employment torural youth and fulfill requirements of skilled manpower requirements of Textile Industry. The CTF has four year diploma course in Textile Technology - with the last year fully spent on internship in renowned industrial houses - with intake of 60 students. Around 80 percent of them are from small villages. All the students are being placed in companies such as Trident, Alok, Welspun, PriyadarshiniSahakariSutGirani Limited (PSSGL)group of institutes and are earning salary packages that are competing with that of graduate engineers. The CTF is planning to increase intake to 120 from the next academic year. It has also initiated BTech Textile Technology program from 2014 in the modern MukeshPatel Technology Park with great involvement of Textile Industry and is targeting equally impressive placement record. The CTF has been organizing various short term courses to take the textile industry in the nation to the next level. This Entrepreneur's program is just an example. It is expected to develop the cluster of Terry Towel in decentralized sector in Solapur area. The second leg of the program is planned to be conducted form December 22nd to 27th 2014. 235

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Center for Textile Functions (CTF) of NMIMS has organized Modernization Program to Solapur Terry Towel Entrepreneurs inMukesh Patel Technology Park, Shirpur. The program is a brainchild of Prof. P.P. Raichurkar, the Head CTF and Mr. Satyram Michael, the President, Textile Development Foundation (TDF) Solapur. It consists of training sessions by leading industry experts and faculty members of the CTF. The program was inaugurated byMr. Manish Basle, Senior Manager, Dyster and Dr. PradeepWaychal, Director, NMIMS Shirpur Campus. Mr. Basle advised the Entrepreneurs to go for the latest technologies to increase productivity and reduce manufacturing cost. Dr. Waychal encouraged the Entrepreneurs to make the Solapur District a terry towel hub like 'SolapurChadar'.

NEWS

Obituary

Mr. Amit K. Shah

Every generation has men who leave their footprints on the sands of time, and act as beacons of light. ShriAmit Shah was among such people.ShriShah popularly was known as Amitbhai in the textile fraternity all over the country. Amitbhai's share in grooming ITAMMA needs a special mention.Amitbhaiwas instrumental in enrolling a large number of members from Ahmedabad, thanks to his long association with the industry in this city. ShriAmitbhaiwas associated with Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers' Association for

more than two decades. He was elected as 53rdPresidentof the Association in the year 2008-09. He was a continuous source of inspiration and a guiding force to the ITAMMA in its activities and continued progress. In spite of his busy schedules he participated actively in mostof the activities of ITAMMA, including Managing Committee meetings and other Events; and invariably gave his advice & opinion on various matters for the growth of the Association. ITAMMA has undergone aMoU with the International Textile Association "TEMSAD" during his tenure of Presidentship. He was Vice-Chairman of India-ITME Society in the year 2008-09. He wasalso the active Member of many other Associations, including Gujarat Chamber of Commerce.ShriAmitbhai was equally devoted to the welfare of poor & downtrodden people of the Society at Ahmedabad. We can only PRAY that his family will have the strength with FORTITUDE & COURAGEto bear this great loss and pray to almighty "MAY HIS SOUL REST IN PEACE "

NEW BOOK - TEXTILE PROCESSING

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Author: Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Dr. Mahapatra is a B.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, Mumbai. He also holds aM.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University, Orissa. He did his M.B.A. from I.M.M., Kolkata. Dr. Mahapatra is having 29 years of experience in textile Dr. N.N. Mahapatra industries in India and Abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birlas (both Aditya Birla and K.K. Birla group), Reliance, Raymond (Kenya), Churchgate Group (Nigeria), GSL (formerly Gujarat Spinners Ltd.), LNJ Bhilwara (RSWM) Group and HindprakashLonsen Industries, Ahmedabad in various senior capacities. This book is written based on the 30 years experience of the Author working in various Textile Mills in India and abroad. His wide expe236

rience on modern topics which he shares with the textile audience at many textile conferences, in india and abroad. This book will be very helpful to textile students, textile scientists, textile research scholars, textile designers, who are the thinkers and future of Indian Textile Industries. He has attended to various burning problems in textile industries. He has discussed the different types of fabrics processing in the textile industries. He has answered to the trouble shootings in dye houses. His varied shop-floor experience has been put on paper and it will help the dyeing technicians to solve their own problems. This book will assist all technicians to apporoch any type of problem occurred in process and dye houses. ISBN: 978-93-313-2485-6 Pages: 270 Rs. 1495/Published by: APH publishing Corporation Book your order with Dr. K.B. Nangia E-mail: aphbooks@gmail.com September - October 2014

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Rieter increases focus on after-sales business Winterthur - Accelerated Development - organizational anchoring in an additional business group CarstenLiske head of after-sales business group as of January 1, 2015 As a part of implementing its core strategies, Rieter will be putting an emphasis on innovative strength andprofitability as well as the development of aftersales business over the next three years. In order to accelerate the development of after-sales business, functions that have been settled in the SpunYarn Systems business group until now will be combined into an additional business group as of January 1,2015. The board of directors appointed CarstenLiske to the group executive committee as head of the businessgroup After Sales from January 1, 2015. The 41-year-old plant and productions engineer ETH has been workMr. Carsten Liske ing for Rieter since 2009, recently as seniorvice president of operations of Spun Yarn Systems. In this capacity, CarstenLiske contributed importantfurther developments for the global supply chain and the business in China.

With the new organization coming into effect on January 1, 2015, Rieter will also be adjusting the segmentreporting. Forthcoming dates ◆ Publication of sales figures for the 2014 financial year: February 4, 2015 ◆ Results press conference and presentation for financial analysts on the 2014 annual results: March 18, 2015 ◆ Annual General Meeting 2015: April 16, 2015 For further information, please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Rieter Management Ltd. Investor Relations Media Relations JorisGröflin Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comCornelia Schreier Head Corporate Communications T +41 52 208 70 32 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com

The 10th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles was organized by Okhla Garment Textile Cluster (OGTC). It was a two day annual event that was inaugurated on 19th September, 2014 and concluded on 20th September, 2014 at India Habitat Center, Lodhi Road, Delhi. This year conference theme was "Commitment to Excellence." The Inaugural & Award Function was held in the evening of 19th Sep., 2014. Mr. Virender Uppal, Chairman, AEPC was the Chief Guest.The total attendance in the on two days of the conference was more than 750 delegates 1. WELCOME ADDRESS Mr. R.C. Kesar, Director General OGTC welcomed September - October 2014

the Chief Guest Mr. Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC and other members of the clusters to the conference. He started by explaining how such an international conference is a great occasion and opportunity for apparel industry. He highlighted that International Conference on Apparel and Home Textiles is a dedicated conference for apparel and home textiles industry with focus and emphasis is on the case studies as with case studies, one learns better.He also took pride in informing the guest about the completion of 10 years of OGTC where it has been giving its service to the industry. HE MENTIONED THAT THIS CLUSTER IS A UNIQUE EXAMPLE WHERE THE COMPETITORS IN THE SAME INDUSTRY COME TOGETHER TO SHARE, COOPERATE AND LEARN FROM EACH OTHER FORMING A COHE237

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ICAHT - 2014 10th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles

NEWS SIVE GROUP FOR BETTERMENT OF EACH OTHER.

3. AWARD FUNCTION

He said that this method of sharing through cluster, not only every company gains but this in turn results into a better gain for the whole industry. He also suggested that over same period, all the members of the cluster have seen positive growth in size and improvement in costs through this cluster cooperation.

Mr. M.K. Mehra, Director, OGTC, announced this year's OGTC Path Breaker's award to be conferred on Dr. Darlie Koshy, Director General & CEO, IAM & ATDC (AEPC). He mentioned that his achievements in the areas of education, skill development & apparel industry are too many. DR. KOSHY HAS ALSO LEADED AND

2. PRESIDENTIAL ADDRESS

DESIGNED THE SKILL DEVELOPMENT & EDUCATION PROGRAM FOR OVER 1.5 LAKH CANDIDATES THROUGH SMART, ATDC & IAM.

Mr. P.M.S. Uppal President OGTC in his presidential address started with welcoming all to a 10 year of journey by the cluster. He mentioned how the idea of forming a cluster evolved through constant perseverance & dedication. He said that what this conference brings to all stake holders is an opportunity to learn something new which otherwise might not have been possible through their normal course of work. He highlighted that each conference takes a lot of work and preparation in bringing the best on the podium.

Mr. Virender Uppal confered the award on Dr. Darlie Koshy.

CHIEF GUEST MR. VIRENDER UPPAL, CHAIRMAN AEPC CONFERRING OGTC PATH BREAKER AWARD FOR 2014 ON DR. DARLIE KOSHY, DG & CEO IAM & ATDC

CHIEF GUEST DELIVERING THE INAUGURAL ADDRESS AT ICAHT-14

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He highlighted that more than technology, expertise and process; it is the focus on an inclusive growth that brings success. THE INCLUSIVE GROWTH FOR PER-

Dr. Darlie Koshy then started his address to the cluster by thanking the guests and members. He spoke about how his start in this industry through handloom sector has resulted into his community based approach in development of sector. He highlighted that there is a need to recognize the contribution of various key people in the industry like production managers, supervisors etc.

SONAL, ORGANIZATIONAL & NATIONAL LEVEL COMES THROUGH THIS OUTLOOK OF COMBINED IMPROVEMENT.He also highlighted the importance of

4. INAUGURAL ADDRESS

innovating on a personal level where each person improves their own way of working on a daily job on a sincere and measurable basis.

Chief Guest Mr. Virender Uppal thanked conference committee for inviting him to inaugurate the conference. HE CONGRATULATED THE OGTC IN BEING ABLE

He thanked Mr. M.K. Mehra & Mr. R.C.Kesar for organizing the successful conference which is focused on knowledge sharing. He also thanked cluster members for being together for a period of 10 good years. 238

TO BRING TOGETHER A CONFERENCE THAT MATCHES THE VISION AND ACTION REQUIRED BY THE INDUSTRY IN A PRACTICAL APPROACH.

September - October 2014

NEWS guest, invited speakers, members and others for participating into the conference and making it a successful event. He also thanked Lady Irwin College for organizing a fashion show where the students and student models showcased nearly 40 creations with the theme "COMMITMENT TO EXCELLENCE" In the end, he also thanked all the sponsors as without them this conference would have been very difficult. CONFERENCE PROCEEDINGS

He mentioned that the industry has a huge scope for the growth and employment in coming times. He spoke about the role of AEPC towards the industry growth and mentioned key points that AEPC is working on these days through policy support. He mentioned that some of the suggestions have already been accepted by the ministry while some others are under discussion. He also spoke about changing market scenario where speed and quality with lower quantities are the new challenges and India is facing challenges from various other countries. He congratulated Dr. Koshy on receiving the OGTC Path Breaker award and lauded his contributions towards training programs through ATDC & IAM. To encourage and recognize the research work of the students & faculty, OGTC organized a poster presentation competition where 15 presentations were received where the following three participants were given cash prize and certificate. ◆ ◆ ◆

MS. PRABHJOT KAUR - GAUGING CARBON FOOTPRINT: AN ENVIRONMENT ALINDICATOR OF SUSTAINABILITY MS. NOOPUR SONEE - DEVELOPMENTS OF PROTECTIVE WORK- WEAR FABRIC FOR FUEL FILLING ATTENDANTS MS. MADHURI NIGAM - ASSESSMENT OF ENVIRONMENT IMPACT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY -WAY AHEAD

5. VOTE OF THANKS Mr. M.K Mehra, gave a vote of thanks to the chief September - October 2014

The conference started with the first session that was focused on "Strategy for Growth"and chaired by Mr. Deepak Mohindra, Chief Editor Apparel Online. He started with welcoming all the speakers on the dais. He then congratulated Mr. Kesar and team to organize such a conference that is only one in India which is knowledge based and where members come to share and learn from each other. The session included presentations by Mr. Prasad Narayan Rege, Intimate Fashions (A MAS Holding Company), Mr. R. Dhamotharan, ITC and Mr. Anant Sadana, United Apparel. Mr. Dhamotharan presented on "Managing Supply Chain for Domestic Market Growth" about how ITC has been collaborating with domestic suppliers and the key challenges faced by them. Mr. Sadana presented next on the topic "Opportunities for Indian Exporters in Changing Global Scenario" while Mr. Rege presented on the topic "Training Processes - Plan/Execute/Sustain". The session highlighted the following key points during the session: ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

COLLABORATING WITH SUPPLIERS IS A MUST IN DOMESTIC INDUSTRY INDIAN APPAREL DOMESTIC MARKET SOURCING SYSTEM KEY CHALLENGES IN INDIAN EXPORT INDUSTRY MOST IMPORTANT THINGS ABOUT COMPANY VISION, MISSION, OBJECTIVES, STRATEGIES & TACTICS (VMOST) NEED TO FOCUS ON VISION FIRST INSTEAD OF TACTICS

The Second Session was focused on "Process to Progress" and chaired by Mr. Vinod Kapur, MD, Radnik Exports. The first presentation was by Mr. Perkinian Chellamani, Seeds Intimate Apparel Pvt. Ltd on the topic of "Planning-First Step to Succeed". This was followed by presentation by Mr. VenkateshNagan, CEO, 239

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

CHIEF GUEST DELIVERING THE INAUGURAL ADDRESS AT ICAHT-14

NEWS Asmara International on the topic of "Challenges, opportunities and strategy for growth for the Indian apparel industry- Lessons from my China experience". The third presentation was by Mr. Jayant Kochar, Go Fish Consulting on the topic of "Complementing Export Market Strengths with Domestic Market Opportunities".

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The second session was focused on following key points:

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◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

IMPORTANCE OF PLANNING IN APPAREL INDUSTRY SCOPE FOR INDIAN MANUFACTURERS CONSIDERING GLOBAL TRENDS INDIAN STRENGTHS IN APPAREL INDUSTRY MOVING BEYOND THE RESTRICTIONS AND THINKING BEYOND THE CONCEPTS OF "CHEAPER, FASTER, BETTER" SUCCESS STORIES ACROSS THE GLOBE AND HOW INDIAN APPAREL INDUSTRY CAN BUILD ITS BRAND

The Third Session which was focused on "Achieving Excellence" was chaired by Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Joint Managing Director, Wazir Advisors. In the session, presentations were given by Mr. Nitesh Burman, MRS Fashions WLL, Bahrain on the topic of "Journey from 10 to 30 pcs a day". The second presentation was delivered by Mr. Gil Almog, OptiTex on "Smart Cut Planning and Virtual solutions - Reducing number of samples and fabric consumption - A practical approach". In the end, the presentation was given by Mr. Nikhil Desai, Centre for Excellence whose topic was "In Pursuit Of Excellence - Unleashing The Potential in You & Your Organization".

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The session brought various dimensions and methods in achieving excellence. Mr. Burman talked about the process of achieving the excellence through better systems and processes in an organization. Mr. Almog highlighted the use of technology in cutting & virtual reality presentations. Mr. Desai focused on the internal energy on personal level that accumulates in an organization towards achieving excellence. He emphasized on the visionary leadership of people who are leaders by action and not by designation. The Fourth Sessionon 2nd day was focused on "Management" and was chaired by Dr. Rajesh Bheda, CEO Rajesh Bheda Consulting. The two presentations in the session were given by Mr. J. D. Giri, Director Shahi 240

Exports on "Managing & Sustaining Consistent Growth in Indian & International Environment" and Mr. Rajat Sikka, MD, Saivana Exports on "Case Study- Performance and Winning Matrix". The key learnings during the session were: PERFORMANCE OF INDIA AGAINST VARIOUS APPAREL EXPORT COUNTRIES USE OF PERFORMANCE MEASUREMENT TOOLS FOR BETTER CAREER ENHANCEMENT OF EMPLOYEES

WORKSHOPS ON 2ND DAY The workshop at OGTC conference is a unique feature where practical issues our debated and deliberated amongst professionals of the specified skills. The workshops for the conference were divided into two sessions of four parallel workshops. The first workshop was a combination of three case studies and was chaired by Mr. Anil Peshawari, MD, Menu Creation. Two of the case studies were by Mr. Manish Sachar, Orient Fashion & Mr. Pramod Mishra, Pee Empro Exports who presented the case study of lean journey of their organizations. Mr. Hemant Sagar MD of Lecoanet Hemant India presented case study of excellence in production. The second workshop was chaired by Mr. Rajat Sikka, MD, Saivana Exports where Ms. Pooja Makhija of Fashion Future gave a session on "Processing Excellence with SOP's" for merchandising. The third workshop was focused on CSR where Ms. Purti Marwaha of Jhalani & Co talked about CSR, Company Law Changes and LPP vs Pvt. Ltd. The session was chaired by Mr. Kamal Sidhu, MD, Neetee Clothing. The last workshop in this session was by Ms. Devyani Bhatnagar, Crestcom International who presented the concept of "How to Mentor and Retain High Performers". This session was chaired by Maj Gen N.K. Dhir, Alphabet Teletec. The Fifth workshop that was held in the second session was chaired by Dr. Sanjay Gupta where Maj Gen N.K. Dhir, Alphabet Teletec talked about "Achieving Superior Performance at Work Place". The sixth workshop was chaired by Mr. Kartik Sharma, MD, Blessings Exports where Mr. Deepak Goel, IAM Gurgaon and Ms. Shilpa Sahni, IAM Gurgaon spoke about "Smart Merchandising - Digital Tools". In the seventh workshop there was an interactive session with Business September - October 2014

NEWS Owners with Mr. Nikhil Desai of centre for Excellence on achievingexcellence through training. Eighth workshop was focused on social responsibility and was chaired by Mr. Akshay Kapur, Director,Radnik Exports. This workshop was a combination of 3 workshops. Dr. Jitender Aggarwal, Sarthak Educational Trust gave the presentation on "Apparel industry training programme for PWD". This was followed by a case study on "Empowering persons with disability in Garment Manufacturing Skills" by Dr. Manpreet Chahal, Lady Irwin College. Mr. Ajay Kumar, Bihar Rural Livelihoods Promotion Society presented the case study on "Assisted Migration at Delhi NCR, Jeevika".

of 10 years would not have been possible without the active participation &cooperation of all OGTC members.He also placed on record the hard work put in by Mr. R.C. Kesar& Mr. M.K.Mehrain making this Conference a grand success& bringing the conference to really a highpedestal.The idea oforganizing the conference is to help entrepreneurs and professionals to get together and listen to new ideas and success stories from all around the globe to enable them to sort out day to day and long term issues. In the end I can say with pride and confidence that the annual conference rejuvenates all of us.

SUMMING UP

DRESS DISPLAY IN FASHION SHOW FORMAT BY STUDENTS OF LADY IRWIN COLLEGE MR. P M S UPPAL PRESIDENT DELIVERING THE ADDRESS AT ICAHT-14

The next OGTC conference ICAHT 2015 will be held on 10th October, 2015 at India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road, New Delhi.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In the summing up session Mr. PMS Uppal president OGTC in his concluding remarks said that thejourney

September - October 2014

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This May Interest You!! Chinese Effective Management Systems China Inc. might appear to be an improbable source of fresh management thinking. Its state-owned enterprises are, for the most part, regulated giants that are experimenting with Western management practices. China has yet to produce a worldclass company like GE or Samsung, and outside the country most of its businesspeople are better known for amassing wealth than for innovative management ideas. Yet China offers more management lessons today than do most other countries. China's best private companies aren't yet pioneering radical new management approaches, as Toyota and other Japanese companies did 50 years ago with total quality management, continuous improvement, and justin-time systems. Instead, Chinese companies teach us management's current imperatives: responsiveness, improvisation, flexibility, and speed. These abilities give them a critical edge. China's private unlisted companies earn higher returns-14%, on average, versus the 4% earned by state-owned companies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Chinese companies have learned to manage differently over the past 30 years because they've had to cope with a turbulent environment.

beginnings: Three of China's legendary company founders-Haier's Zhang Ruimin, ZTE's HouWeigui, and Wanxiang's Lu Guanqiu-all started on the factory floor and fought to free their companies from state or collectivist management. Other enterprises were started by traders, teachers, or clerks. These companies build alliances constantly, develop new products prolifically, and venture into unrelated businesses all the time. They expect to sustain high rates of growth and are comfortable with a heady pace. Business leaders in China also share two distinct perspectives. One is the view that they have to create their own ecosystems. The Chinese founder-manager believes that he or she will need to build almost everything-basic skills in recruits, suppliers, government ties, capital sources, and often schools for employees' kidsfrom scratch and on a large scale. This is what Zhang Yong, who founded the fast-growing hot pot restaurant chain Hai Di Lao, does when he enters a new market. One of his key success factors is the ability to spot, recruit, and retain teenagers capable of growing into store managers by the time they are 21. Zhang tests trainees by assigning them tasks above their responsibility level, such as negotiating the takeover of a rival chain. That allows him to weed out those with low potential.

Companies' management systems are linked to the economies in which they grow. Stable, complex markets, their thinking goes, require structured organizations and managers capable of tackling several dimensions, such as functions and customer types, simultaneously. Rapidly changing markets favor loosely structured management systems, which can process new information quickly, and managers who can act independently. Chinese companies (barring state-owned enterprises) tend to fall into the second camp. They are higher in energy and much more flexible than most Western corporations are.

Because management bench strength is the biggest constraint on his company's growth, Zhang deepens managers' commitment by offering generous incentives, trips outside China, housing, and education for their children. He creates his own suppliers by offering wannabe entrepreneurs contracts that promise lots of business in the future. He is also a master at pulling together the capital he needs from varied sources: local governments that offer financial incentives and subsidies, Chinese Communist Party angels, provincial investment funds, and friends of friends. To a large extent, the ability to do that depends on forging personal relationships and showing that he can help bureaucrats meet their goals. Credit ratings aren't necessary; it's about who can be trusted.

China's business leaders also manage people very differently. They're culturally predisposed to see the members of their organizations as family but, in return, demand a lot from them. CEOs often come from humble

The second view the Chinese founders share is that they have to be as adept at managing the state as they are at managing operations. For decades the Chinese Communist Party barely tolerated private companies.

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Many entrepreneurs fail in China, but the survivors become resourceful, flexible, and fierce competitors. Indeed, they may will be the vanguard of an era in which the ability to adapt quickly, navigate messy environments, and use unproven talent yields competitive advantage globally. China's Unique Management Practices Recent study of more than 30 private Chinese Companies shows that most of them display a trading mentality that values high asset turnover and good timing over perfection; their preference for simple organizational structures, with everyone reporting to the top; a deep fear, stemming from China's past instability, of too much debt; and skill in dealing with different levels of the powerful state. The good companies, however, are defined by something more: high aspirations and openness to experimenting with radically different management techniques and practices. Structuring organizations simply China's business leaders are experts for controlling companies from the top, but what is less well known is how much they decentralize, which helps them respond to market shifts and rapidly add new business lines. In China the need for adaptation is constant, and it involves keeping pace not just with the market but also with differences in the development of each province and the power of local officials.\ Because such differences can be stark, Chinese companies create structures that give business units nearly total autonomy. Consider Midea, China's second-largest home appliances maker, based in Shunde, a city across the border from Hong Hong. Midea manufacturers everything from vacuum cleaners and small water heaters to microwaves and air conditioners. Most of the major product lines operate as independent businesses rather than as parts of a larger matrixed organization. Each business has a leader responsible for its P & L, who has the authority to build a sales force, line up suppliers and retailers, and construct factories where the best incentives are available. The notion of synergies across units has been largely set aside; the focus is on autonomy and accountability. September - October 2014

Midea employed 126,000 people and generated $18.7 billion in sales in 2013; by comparison, Whirlpool had 69,000 employees and $19 billion in sales globally. Thus, Midea had nearly twice as many employees per unit of sales, reflecting some of the duplication of effort inherent in its organizational approach. Of course, Chinese companies produce more in-house and pay employees less than their Western counterparts, so Chinese enterprises can afford to employ more people. And in a country with little business infrastructure such as logistics providers, distributors, and retail chains, companies need a lot of manpower to grow. The Chinese founders have as many direct reports as possible; these leaders take the idea of decentralization and flat structures to the extreme. Haier, China's dominant home appliance maker comprises thousands of minicompanies, all reporting to the chairman. There are no pure cost centers; even the finance department functions independently, providing financing and advisory services for a fee. Though Western companies believe that multiple reporting lines protect them from risks, such as uneven product standards or hiring practices, while enabling scale efficiencies and learning benefits, most Chinese founder-CEOs eschew this notion.They chase topline growth at any cost and believe in structures that support rapid expansion. Indeed, improvisation and speed, coupled with low costs driven by economies of scale, create considerable disruption inside and outside China. Companies in China operate in two time frames, executing today's business while preparing to double in size in anywhere from three to five years. This involves not just adding resources but incubating new business models and launching new brands. In the Unites States or Europe, the business unit head would normally handle both time frames, but Chinese founders usually appoint two managers, each autonomous and responsible for one time frame and, effectively, competing for resources. Chinese leaders prefer direct conflict to more complex, cooperative management structures that involve all their reports but operate out of their sight. Most would rather hire more arms and legs than create new cross-organizational roles. Smart Chinese executives make decision in an ad hoc manner and are micro managers. The most -soughtafter employees are entrepreneurial, ready for the rough-and-tumble, and less likely to be top-of-the-class candidates, who tend to gravitate toward state-owned enterprises. 243

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Start-ups had no standing, so conventional sources of raw materials, talent, and money were closed to them. Chinese business people still have to tap officials to get licenses to operate, lease space, find workers, import materials, and raise capital. However, they have learned to make the system work for them.

NEWS Trouble is entrepreneurial people tend to leave as quickly as they sign on, which is why turnover in China's private companies is upwards of 20% a year. Moreover, most companies have invested little in talent retention and are weak when it comes to coaching, feedback, and training. Localizing value propositions

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Most of China is still developing, which means that it is marked by inexperienced customers, undercapitalized companies, no-name brands, and unique local business customs and traditions.The definition of quality, for example, reflects local needs. Construction companies will pay a premium for cement that dries quickly or can be poured in freezing temperatures, since they want to build at maximum speed and operate seven days a week. They will not pay a premium for cement that lasts 50 years instead of 30. Similarly, a Chinese retail chain will not pay for longer-lasting fixtures; if you remodel stores every six months, durability isn't what you want. Localization provides companies a way to capture value-through what they offer customers and partners, and how they go to market.Sany's march to the top of the construction equipment business in China illustrates how different the task of adapting to local customers and government is there. The company's two biggest product lines are ready-mix cement trucks and excavators, which in developed countries are sold to contractors and expected to last decades In China they're mostly sold to local leasing companies, which rent them to local contractors on a job-by-job basis. The leasing companies, though small, are well connected, so they compete on their preferential access rather than on durability, and demand financing so that they can keep their capital commitments down. Sany builds low-end machines, has very local distribution systems, sells with little or no down payment, and offers the most service. It uses more managers who know more people, in more places - a very different way to go to market. Multinational rivals like Komatsu and Caterpillar, in contrast, serve the upscale market, selling higher-end machines to the few better-capitalized construction companies. Sany's business model has generated tremendous economies of scale, so it now has raised its sights, acquiring the German Putzmeister brand and moving into a number of overseas markets. Developing products quickly The speed with which Chinese companies develop new products from existing technologies and ramp up large244

scale production is often impressive. It's a key reason that the Chinese have come to dominate the global silicon-based solar-panel business, forcing U.S. and Japanese producers to focus on more-exotic thin-film solar technology.Goodbaby International Holdings, China's market leader in baby carriages and child car seats, beats rivals by introducing 100 new products on average each quarter. Fast-food chains in the country, including KFC China, introduce more new products each year than their U.S. counterparts, because local variations in taste demand it. The ability to launch new offerings is a by-product of heritage. Companies like Midea, Wanxiang, and Goodbaby started out manufacturing goods they didn't design. They learned how to prototype swiftly to meet buyers' demand for quick turnaround; to adapt designs to use different materials when the original materials were too expensive or unavailable; to modify equipment so that they could make different products; and, above all, to keep costs down. That flexibility helped Wanxiang, for instance, move from making bicycle parts out of scrap metal, to manufacturing components for Detroit's Big Three, to buying and turning around the factories of struggling U.S. automotive component makers. Another company that takes a fast and flexible approach is the Broad Group, based in Changsha. It constructs buildings with remarkable speed and in an environmentally friendly fashion, using factory-built modules. Using a modular approach isn't new, but the company has redesigned the risers and box work that frame a building into smaller, more manageable pieces that can be built more efficiently in the factory, and has created material-handling systems that move the modules around swiftly and allow new layers to be added easily. The units have all the utilities embedded, are plug-compatible, and are shipped to building sites in 40foot containers for round-the-clock assembly. As these examples illustrate, the skills Chinese companies rely on are mainly downstream industrial competencies.They don't involve the upstream creation of technology, original designs, selection of materials, and design of equipment, or customer knowledge and marketing savvy. (The Chinese are just beginning to acquire design capabilities and the higher cost structure they entail.)Because of their downstream orientation, the practices of Chinese corporations differ from their Western counterparts' in some key ways: Chinese companies generally keep engineering and September - October 2014

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Chinese companies tend to acquire new technologies either through formal licensing deals or by reverseengineering them, but they keep the physical work of experimentation and production in-houseMultinationals, with their opposite resource endowments, do the opposite. Chinese companies hire more midlevel engineering and manufacturing people, even though they're getting expensive Multinationals, process design is usually driven by the desire to save production steps and labour hours, but the added engineering and manufacturing bandwidth gives the Chinese the luxury of tinkering, which can solve difficult problems. As many people know, when Apple had to redesign the screen of its first IPhone at the last minute, its Shenzhen supplier roused its engineers out of bed, developed a better screen, and overhauled the production line-in just four days' time. Tencent, China' leading internet service portal, illustrates how companies gain an advantage by quickly rolling out new offerings in China. Tencent now has over 700 million users, but it is often criticized for innovating little and imitating a lot. It was launched in Shenzhen in 1998 by five founders as a free instantmessaging service named QQ, with a friendly-looking penguin wearing a red scarf as its mascot. Its key strengths are the rate at which it has added more features - such as games, search, an e-commerce marketplace, music, microblogs, and even a virtual currency called Q-coins-and the ease with which users can connect with one another. Visit a cafĂŠ anywhere in China, and almost everyone will be connected to QQ but doing different things. Yet, there's nothing completely new on the website, which earned profits of around $2.5billion in 2013. Tencent just beats everyone else to it. Using nonmarket strategies adroitly Building relationships with government and other institutions is critical in China; it takes more partners to get anything done there than anywhere else in the world. Smart companies work to understand the party and state agency organization charts, and the underlying power structures, in every province and city. The trick is in knowing which officials to approach for what and where their interests lie, so that mutually beneficial September - October 2014

deals can be put together. Chinese executives see forging personal relationships with party bigwigs as an essential way to manage cots, tax obligations, and market access. In turn, the party needs entrepreneurs to create a productive China and grow the tax base. It also needs to bring entrepreneurs in the fold as an important new political constituency. In short, the relationship between founder-managers and officials is often about problem solving rather than corruption. During the 2008-2009 recessions, for example, party secretaries and mayors wanted to minimize layoffs. In one city a large private employer was being hounded by a tax collector to settle a contract dispute in an unreliable court - a problem the city's party secretary could easily fix. The CEO struck a deal with the local party unit, promising no layoffs, and in return got his tax problems resolved fairly and quickly.Consider also the story of China's biggest IT services firm, Neusoft, which was founded in 1991 in Shenyang by three university teachers. Neusoft bet half its capital on a desktop operating system, but it was quickly pirated. Cofounder and CEO Liu Jiren then had to scramble to develop custom software for B2B customers that would need Neusoft's services over time. Eventually, Neusoft began helping local and central governments modernize their IT systems, which made it indispensable to China's drive for modernization. Building on that base, Neusoft developed his capabilities to serve demanding customers overseas, partnering with multinational giants, such as Harman, Intel, SAP, and Toshiba, and establishing strong internal systems. The peculiar mix of a powerful state and a weak infrastructure gives relationship savvy founders like Wanxiang's Lu and Neusoft's Liu the wherewithal to venture into new industries, because they know how to build from scratch and have the connections to do it fast. They jump into white spaces, undeterred by lack of experience, since there are few dominant incumbents. Wanxiang, for example, is moving into the electric car business and Neusoft into the medical diagnostic equipment business. Chinese CEOs have plenty of room for creativity and can work around the state if they don't want to engage with it. That's what Wang Shi, the founder of the real estate developer Vanke Group, based in Shenzhen, did. Chinese property development used to be a local affair, with local governments making quick profits by repurposing agricultural land and selling it to construction 245

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

manufacturing close, often co-locating themMultinational firms usually maintain greater organizational distance between the two functions.

NEWS companies at auction. The latter put up shoddy buildings and created poorly planned communities, leaving middle-class residents dissatisfied and unable to find housing that fit their needs. Wang forged a different path. He avoided the auctions and bought land directly, wherever possible, from cooperatives and governments. That allowed him to reduce land acquisition costs, although the locations were not in prime areas. He then built good-quality residential complexes, created road and shopping plazas, and turned Vanke into a reputable brand. City officials began to seek him out to do business on his terms, and Vanke leveraged its reputation to become China's largest residential developer. Chinese Business is all about adaptation to the context. Management that grows from the frontier like condi-

tions in the country is more homemade, vertical, and local. In many ways Chinese management is a throwback to the days of Henry Ford, RCA, and Standard Oil, when national markets and professional management were just taking shape in the United States.In contrast, American multinationals today have to work hard to stay lean and nimble despite using many mechanisms to coordinate, integrate, and control their business units.The future of management lies somewhere between the top-down reform of Western corporations and the bottom-up maturation of Chinese companies. They have much to learn from each other. Compiled and Sourced by Arvind Sinha Business Advisors Group, Mumbai, India Cell No. 9820062612, 8108612612 Email: arpsinha09@gmail.com, lionasinha@gmail.com

This may interest you!!! PT. EMBEE PLUMBON TEKSTIL Indonesia

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

PT. Embee Plumbon Textile's customer-oriented apporoch and continuous technology up-grading have set new standards in PT. EMBEE Listen to the Customer product and process development. PT. Embee exports 80% of its production to 45 countries around the globe. At present PT. Embee has 620 spindles of Rieter Com4速jet producing 10% viscose and polyester/cotton blends in the count range ne 20 to ne 40. Most of the yarn is destined for knitting applications. PT. EmbeePlumbon Textiles started operations in 1999 with an annual capacity of 50 000 tons of yarn and 12 million meters of fabric at their plant in Cirebon, West Java. Outfitted with modern technology to ensure smooth operation, the plant caters to the demand for high-end textiles in the global market. Currently, PT. EmbeePlumbon Textiles has 1 600 employees. The factory has been built with an eco-friendly and social contribution perspective with special focus on measures in waste reduction and power conservation through the use of cleaner technologies. Production with the best possible raw materials and resources available in Indonesia achievers optimum quality products to compete in overseas market. PT. Embee is the first company in Indonesia to obtain Ustuerized accreditation for raw materials, quality and process consistency. 246

EmbeePlumbon Textiles, explains that "Our company forges success through keeping customers satisfied".Boosting the bottom line in the business combines many variables, but an all-important constant is customer loyalty. And with customers' demands and awareness of professional services growing. It requires a focused and clever approach to achieve this goal.Export-oriented PT. EmbeePlumbon Textiles is a standout in maintaining customer loyalty thanks to its focus on the aspects that matter: superior product quality and after sales service. The producer of yarn and fabric has forged an export marketing strategy based on customer delight in its products and services.Product September - October 2014

NEWS

TARGETS Continuous focus on research & development (R&D) has resulted in development of new products to meet the deemands of its customers. There is continuous upgrading of plant and facilities to maintain an edge in qulaity, in addition to ongoing R&D and innovation, This flexibility in deciding the product mix has served very well in the rapidly changing market scenario. The company's ability to extend its range of customers has helped it weather tough economic times. PT. Embee is a flat and responsive organization which blends itself to customers' requirements to crave a separate identity in the international market. For this reason it is producing more for the industrial segment which has a stable demand patteren as compared to the apparel/garment segment. These efforts have resulted in the factory running at full capacity, even during lean times like the beginning of 2009. PT. Embee is a market-driven organization. It listens to customes carefully and acts on their feedback. At the same time, it strategizes for emerging market trends and moves rapidly to change the product mix according to changing market demand. PRODUCT BRANDING AS GROWTH FACTOR The company's focus on quality and after sales service has resulted in a global market of loyal customers with exports to 46 countries. Export performance for the last six years has been ompressive, with with export turnover doybled from 2007 to 2012. It aims to maintain this growth trajectory through nivhe market entry by product branding. Under the GLOBE brand umbella PT. Embee plans to create different product lines based on usage and application. Mr. V.K. Agarwal said that "our continuousefforts to achieve consistant growth in exports were recognized by the President of Indonesia with the Primaniyatra Award (Best Exporter's Award) for excellence in export performance for 2011". Proactive endeavors continue to be made to understand changing market needs; cunstomer visits and regular participation in trade fairs and exhibitions ensure that these changes will be anticipated and met.With the company's emphasis on meaningful interaction with trade partners, its raw material suppliers also become bueyers of the end September - October 2014

products to fulfill specific demand.For instance, Toray and Japan buy the company's products for sale in the japanese market under the TORAY GLOBE brand name. Similarly close collaborationWith machinery supplierSouth Pacific Viscose (Lenzing) has led to development of new products using cutting edge technology. The alliance of Rieter, PT Embee and South Pacific Viscise (Lenziing) has led to to the creation of new products to cater to the niche demand of the garment industry. INVESTMENT IN NEW TECHNOLOGY "The main requirement for us to adopt a new spinning technology is its novelty coupled with cost competitiveness.Also we putemphasis on flexibility and quality improvement while selecting new technology. Besides, we expore the marketability of new product before we decide to invest in new technology. For instance we recently invested in Rieter air-jet spinning machines after analyzing market potencial for this product. Although it was a risky venture considering the fact that most of our customers had never heard of this techonoly before, we were the first spinning mill to install this Rieter air-jet spinning technology in Indonesia. We had to educate our customers about this technology before they started buying. Also we had to do a lot of sampling. Now we are satisfied with results and are further expanding capacities with Rieter aorjet spinning technology. THE FUTURE Retailers like ZARA are defining the market dynamics with short delivery times and faster turnaround and this puts a tremendous load on supply chains. PT. Embee is preparing itself for for this business model where speed of exucution and flexibility are of utmost importance for survival in the textile industry. At the same time. It has to beinnovative to find new solutions for cost cutting to remain competative in this low margin business. Now PT. Embee is increasingly using new fiber materials like Tencel速, Modal, Micro modal etc on new spinning systems like Rieter Com4速jet to develop unique products to avoid dependance on commodities. This way it remains ahead of competitors and at the same time effictively serves the new demands of its customers.

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

quality and market understanding is the key to longterm retention of customers and have provided the company with a solid basis for differentiation in the crowded industrial commodity market.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA Vibrant Gujarat 2015 The Journey from Investor's Summit to Global Business Hub Date : 11t to 13th January, 2015 Venue : Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Contact : Industrial Exhibition Bureau, Block No. 18, 2nd Floor, Udyog Bhavan, GH-4, Sector 11, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Tel. : +91-79-23250492 Fax : +91-79-23250490 E-mail : indextb@indextb.com Website : www.intextb.com, www.ic.gujarat.gov.in ITMACH - International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition Date : 10th to 13th December, 2014 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact: Mr. Arvind Semlani - M.: +91-9833977743 Mr. Farid K.S. - M.: +91-9869185102 Tel.: +91-022-22017013/61 E-mail: info@itmach.com, arvind@textileexcellence.com, farid@textileexcellence.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha Unit hosting 70th All India Textile Conference Date : 17th & 18th January, 2015 Venue : Vasantrao Deshpande Hall, Nagpur, India Contact : Mr. Hemant Sonare, Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha Unit 26, Raghuk, Pragati Colony, Near Pragati Hall, Chhatrapati Squre, Wardha Road, Nagpur - 440 015 M. : 9860930380, 9822573341 E-mail : hemantsonare@gmail.com, texcellence12@rediffmail.com 1st Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015 FOCUS ASIA Organized by India ITME Society Date : 20th to 22nd January, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : India ITME Society, 76, Mittal Tower, B Wing, 210, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021, India Tel. : +91-22-22020032, 22828138, Fax : +91-22-22851578 E-mail : gttes@india-itme.com, itme@india-itme.com, Website : www.india-itme.com/GTTES2015

Non Woven Tech Asia 2015 The 2nd International Exhibition & Conference of Non Woven Industry Organized by Radeecal Communications & guiNON Date : 04th to 06th June, 2015 Venue : Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Contact : Organizer, 402, 4th Floor, Optionz Complex, Opp. Nest Hotel, Off C.G. Road, Navarangpura, Ahmedabad - 380 009, India Tel. : +91-79-26401101/02/03 Mobile : +91-9173440725 E-mail : sales@nonwoventechasia.com Website : www.nonwoventechasia.com ABROAD The Textile Association (India) organizes in Association with Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) WORLD TEXTILE CONGRESS 2014 Theme: "Global Textile - Opportunities & Challenges in an Integrated World" Date: 13, 14 & 15th February, 2015 Venue: Bangkok, Thailand Contact: Mr. Arvind Sinha - National President The Textile Association (India) - Central Office Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : +91-022-24461145, Fax : +91-022-24474971 M. : +91-9820062612 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, lionasinha@gmail.com ITMA 2015 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 12th to 19th November, 2015 Venue : Fiera, Milano Rho, Milan, Italy Contact : MP Expositions Pte Ltd. 20, Kallang Avenue, 2nd Floor, Pico Creative Centre, Singapore 339411 Tel. : +65 6393 0241 Fax : +65 6296 2670 E-mail : info@itma.com, Website : http://www.itma.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. 248

September - October 2014

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association