KNITTING
PEER REVIEWED
Thermal Comfort Properties of Modal Blended Knitted Fabrics Sanehi Maurya*, Meenu Munjal & Dr. Dhirendra Sharma MLVTEC, Bhilwara, Rajasthan Abstract This study focuses on the thermal comfort properties of modal/cotton, modal/viscose and modal/polyester blended knitted fabrics with three blend proportions viz - 30/70, 50/50, and 70/30 having two different counts 24s Ne and 30s Ne at grey, bleached and finished state. The air permeability, vertical wicking height, thermal insulation, total absorbency and water vapour permeability have been investigated in this study. Polyester blended fabrics show the highest value of air permeability, vertical wicking height and thermal insulation but viscose blended fabrics show the highest value in case of total absorbency and water vapour permeability among all the samples studied.It has been observed that the blend proportion, yarn fineness and the processing stage also have a significant effect on the thermal comfort properties of the fabric. Keywords Air permeability, Cotton, Knitted fabrics, Modal, Polyester, Total absorbency, Thermal insulation, Vertical wicking height, Viscose, Water vapour permeability.
Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing. Clothing comfort can be classified into three groups: Psychological, Tactile, and Thermal comfort. Thermal comfort is related to the fabric's ability to maintain skin temperature and allow transfer of perspiration produced from the body [5]. The critical properties for thermal comfort of the clothed body are thermal resistance, air permeability, water vapour permeability, and wicking ability [6]. Thermal comfort properties of textile fabrics are actually influenced by the gamut of fabric properties. The type of fibre, spinning technology, yarn twist, yarn *All the correspondence should be addressed. Sanehi Maurya MLVTEC, Bhilwara, Rajasthan. E-mail: sanehimaurya@gmail.com September - October 2019
hairiness, fabric thickness, fabric cover factor, fabric porosity and finish are some of the factors, which play decisive role in determining the comfort properties of fabrics [7]. Keeping the above points in mind, it has been decided to carry out the work on thermal comfort properties of blended knitted fabrics, considering fiber type, blend proportion, yarn count, bleaching and finishing. 2. Material and methods Eighteen modal blended plain jersey knitted fabric samples were manufactured on circular knitting machine having three fibre types, three blend proportions and two yarn counts. The specifications of the fibres used in the present study are given in Table 2.1. The blended yarns of 24s and 30s Ne nominal count with varying modal content i.e. 30%, 50%, and 70% were spun on ring frame (LMW LR6/S). Table 2.1-The specifications of the fibres used
Fiber
Length(mm)
Denier
Micronaire
Polyester
38
1.5
-
Viscose
38
1.3
-
Modal
38
1.3
-
Cotton
37 -
2.8
(2.5% spun length)
169
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1. Introduction Knitted fabrics, especially ready-made knitted garments T-shirts, underwear and lingerie are an important part of the textile sector [1-2]. Plain knitted fabrics are generally used to make underwear and outerwear such as T-shirts. Compared to woven structures, knit fabrics can more easily deform or stretch by compressing or elongating the individual stitches that from the fabric. The knit fabrics are having wider use in time since they can be produced more easily for a lower cost, and they are more flexible [3-4].
KNITTING All the knitted fabric samples were prepared under identical machine conditions and care was taken to have a uniform level of tension on sheet throughout the sample preparation. The grey modal blended knitted fabric samples were desized, scoured, bleached, and finished, using winch machine. The process parameters and recipes are given below. Desizing- Conc. HCl 0.5% owf, time 45 min, temperature room temp., MLR 1:20; Scouring- NaoH 10 gpl owf, Na2Co3 15 gpl owf, Non ionic soap 2 ml/ltrowf, time 45 min, temperature 90°C, MLR 1:20; BleachingH2O210ml/ltr owf, Non ionic soap 2 ml/ltrowf,Na2Co3 5 gpl owf, time 45 min, temperature 90°C, MLR 1:20; Finishing- Silicone softener 20 gpl owf, temperature room temp., MLR 1:30.
In the present work, the effect of fibre type (cotton, viscose and polyester), modal fibre content (30%, 50% and 70%), yarn count (24s Ne and 30s Ne) and processing stage (grey, bleached and finished) has been studied on various knitted fabric comfort properties viz.air permeability, total absorbency, water vapour permeability, vertical wicking height and thermal insulation. The GSM, thickness, and porosity of the knitted fabric samples are given in Table 2.3. Table 2.3- GSM, thickness, and porosity of the fabrics samples
All the knitted fabric samples were subjected to wet processing treatments in loose condition to produce fabric samples in fully relaxed state.The mean value of wales per inch and course per inch of all the 18 grey knitted fabric samples were measured and found to be around 32wpi and 42 cpi.The work plan is given in Table 2.2.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Table 2.2- Work plan for experimental yarn samples Yarn samples 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
Fiber blend
M/C
Blend proportion
Count (Ne)
30/70
24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s 24s 30s
50/50 70/30 30/70
M/V
50/50 70/30 30/70 50/50
M/P 70/30
*M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose, & P=Polyester 170
September - October 2019
KNITTING
3. Results and discussion 3.1 Air Permeability: The variation in the air-permeability with different fibres, blend proportions, yarn counts and processing stages of all type of fabrics are given in the Table 3.1. It may be observed that polyester blended fabrics have higher air permeability value as compared to cotton and viscose blended fabrics. This may be attributed due to that polyester yarn has low hairiness value than others. In polyester blended yarns with increase in modal proportion air permeability reduce, it is due to fibrillar nature of modal fibre, by which micro-fibres create resulting in higher yarn hairiness. Cotton is a natural fibre, thus it has higher proportion short fibres so they show higher hairiness than regenerated fibre, resulting in lower air permeability. Furthermore, coarser yarn fabrics show lower air permeability, it may be due to larger diameter of yarn and thus more cover factor, resulting lower value of air permeability. Coarser yarn show higher hairiness due to more number of fibres in the yarn cross section. This can additionally reduce air permeability. However, bleached fabrics show lower air permeability than grey fabrics, it may be due to higher thickness and GSM of bleached fabrics. Generally there is some weight loss after scouring, and in bleaching due to dissolution of fibre percentage, but the fabric shrinks and shrinkage over power the effect of the weight loss resulting in higher GSM. Silicone finished fabrics show higher air permeability as compared to bleached fabrics, especially in cotton blended fabrics; it may be due to reduction in yarn to yarn friction after silicone finish. In case of Polyester fabrics, no significant trends were observed. The result of ANOVA statistical technique indicated that there is a significant relationship between air permeability and fibre type, blend proportion, and processing stage, but in case of yarn count, the difference is insignificant at 0.05 significance level. September - October 2019
Table 3.1- Influence of fibre composition and stages on air-permeability (cm3/cm2.sec) of modal blended knitted fabrics Fabric
Air Permeability (cm3/cm2.sec)
Sample
30:70
50:50
70:30
Code
24s
30s
24s
30s
24s
30s
GMC
717.431
718.910
711.956
715.930
710.006
710.835
GMV
731.366
737.005
729.371
730.365
721.886
725.641
GMP
756.395
761.656
741.585
741.781
737.840
738.998
BMC
709.170
712.940
687.891
700.888
516.480
676.890
BMV
727.940
727.030
722.355
724.360
719.446
720.530
BMP
736.681
737.668
734.800
734.820
732.146
734.571
FMC
715.100
716.221
708.706
715.318
582.420
684.640
FMV
727.483
731.690
722.690
726.971
719.676
722.850
FMP
741.731
743.706
740.483
741.595
735.851
737.881
* G=Grey, B=Bleach, F=Finish, M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose & P=Polyester
Fig. 3.1(a)Variation in air-permeability with increase in modal content for different fibre.
Fig. 3.1(b) Variation in air-permeability with increase in yarn fineness for different wet processing stages.
171
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Prior to testing, the knitted fabric samples were conditioned in standard atmosphere (27 ¹ 2°C) temperature and (65 ¹ 5%) relative humidity for 48 hrs. Air permeability test was performed on TESTEX air permeability tester. Total absorbency of all the fabric samples was calculated according to static immersion test - BS 3449. Water vapour permeability of fabric was calculated by cup method. The vertical wicking test of the fabric was carried out according to TAPCC standard. SASMIRA thermal conductivity apparatus (ASTM 1518-77) was used for measuring thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics. Full factorial ANOVA technique has been used to analyse the results.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
KNITTING 3.2 Total Absorbency Percentage: The variation in the total absorbency with different fibres, blend proportions, yarn counts and processing stages of all type of fabrics are given in the Table 3.2. The viscose blended fabrics show highest absorbency value as compared to cotton and polyester blended fabrics. The differences in moisture regain of the constituent fibres would account for the variation in total absorbency. The degree of crystallinity of modal fibres is in the region of 55%, as compared with 40-55% for ordinary rayon and 70-80% for cotton. The crystallites in modal fibres are larger than those in ordinary rayon.In polyester and cotton blended fabrics, with increase in modal content total absorbency increases. It may be due to higher regain of modal as compared to cotton and polyester fibres.In case of viscose blended fabrics, no significant change in absorbency was observed with increase in modal content.Furthermore, coarser yarn fabrics show lower absorbency it may be due to larger diameter of yarn and thus higher cover, thus less number of air pores available at fabric surface resulting in lower value of absorbency [5].However, bleached fabrics show lower absorbency than grey fabrics, it may be due to reduced fabric porosity. Total absorbency decreases with increase in fabric density [8]. Basically absorbency is related to fabric cover or the number of air pores available at fabric surface [5]. And bleached fabrics have higher fabric density and lesser porosity resulting in lower absorbency.Silicone finished fabrics show slightly lower absorbency as compared to bleached fabrics; it may be due to hydrophobic nature of amino silicone finish. Moreover rough surface give rise to fast spreading along troughs offered by the surface roughness, the reduced absorbency of silicone finished fabrics may be attributed to decrease in the surface roughness, as silicone finish increases fabric smoothness.The result of ANOVA statistical technique indicated that there is a significant relationship between total absorbency and fibre type, blend proportion, and processing stage, but in case of yarn count, the difference is insignificant at 0.05 significance level.
Table 3.2- Influence of fibre composition and stages on total absorbency (percentage) of modal blended knitted fabrics Fabric
Total Absorbency (% age)
Sample
30:70
50:50
70:30
Code
24s
30s
24s
30s
24s
30s
GMC
313.933
401.469
333.860
420.787
376.304
439.162
GMV
365.672
414.621
405.654
485.150
498.784
505.183
GMP
292.746
342.521
320.350
370.730
338.244
439.000
BMC
287.308
349.490
332.085
377.042
344.452
429.754
BMV
349.176
404.607
373.099
444.496
434.047
480.000
BMP
255.735
336.466
312.063
362.986
326.418
390.872
FMC
280.137
342.902
312.594
359.466
340.474
406.205
FMV
323.749
395.264
359.389
402.074
422.422
471.897
FMP
251.573
331.507
301.682
351.145
323.438
389.212
* G=Grey, B=Bleach, F=Finish, M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose & P=Polyester
Fig. 3.2(a) Variation in total absorbency with increase in modal content for different fibre.
Fig. 3.2(b) Variation in total absorbency with increase in yarn fineness for different wet processing stages. 172
September - October 2019
KNITTING
Table 3.3- Influence of fibre composition and stages on water vapour permeability (g/m2/day) of modal blended knitted fabrics Fabric
Water Vapour Permeability (g/m2/day)
Sample
30:70
50:50
70:30
Code
24s
30s
24s
30s
24s
30s
GMC
547.372
646.894
608.834
768.356
746.417
796.178
GMV
643.894
698.625
688.656
845.939
798.417
945.461
GMP
447.850
544.312
501.100
646.894
543.409
698.894
BMC
540.327
597.133
547.372
696.656
593.134
755.644
BMV
545.204
696.636
604.894
699.333
646.894
895.700
BMP
442.044
497.611
486.256
597.133
498.696
683.331
FMC
497.611
588.241
504.441
668.756
579.009
746.328
FMV
541.172
634.153
597.133
687.109
654.771
845.939
FMP
440.850
492.757
447.850
593.110
483.218
646.894
* G=Grey, B=Bleach, F=Finish, M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose & P=Polyester September - October 2019
Fig. 3.3 (a) Variation in water vapour permeability with increase in modal content for different fibre.
Fig. 3.3 (b) Variation in water vapour permeability with increase in yarn fineness for different wet processing stages.
3.4 Vertical wicking height: The variation in the vertical wicking heightwith different fibres, blend proportions, yarn counts and processing stages of all type of fabrics are given in the Table 3.4.The polyester blended fabrics show higher vertical wicking height as compared to cellulosic fabrics. This may be due to higher fabric porosity in polyester blended fabrics. Cotton fibre has higher modulus than viscose fibre, which may result in greater thickness in case of cotton fabrics, thus showing higher porosity and higher wicking height.With increase in modal content in polyester blended fabrics, fabric thickness reduces, thus decreasing fabric porosity resulting in reduced wicking height.Coarse yarns show higher wicking height. It may be attributed to greater fabric thickness and thus greater 173
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
3.3 Water vapour permeability: The variation in the water vapour permeability with different fibres, blend proportions, yarn counts and processing stages of all type of fabrics are given in the Table 3.3. It shows that the movement of water vapour through a fabric depends on the micro porous nature of the material [9].The size of water droplet (liquid) is 100 ?m and the water vapour (gas) is 0.0004 ?m and need to make a fabric with porous space around 10 ?m.As polyester density is lower than cellulosic fibres, its yarn diameter is higher resulting in greater fabric thickness. Thus fabric porosity is also found to be higher in case of polyester fabrics, resulting in lower water vapour permeability.With increase in modal content, especially in polyester blended fabrics, yarn diameter reduces resulting in lower fabric thickness and porosity, thus increasing water vapour permeability; it may be due to micro porous fibre structure of modal.Coarser yarns have greater fabric thickness as compared to finer yarns, it may attribute to lower water vapour permeability.Bleached fabrics have higher gsm and thickness than grey fabrics; it may be due to fabric shrinkage. Greater thickness and gsm results in very low water vapour permeability.Silicone finished fabrics show lower water vapour permeability as compared to bleached fabrics. This may be due to reduction in number of pores due to finishing treatment.The result of ANOVA statistical technique indicated that there is a significant relationship between water vapour permeability and fibre type, blend proportion, and processing stage, but in case of yarn count, the difference is insignificant at 0.05 significance level.
KNITTING fabric porosity. Moreover coarser yarns also have lower packing fraction. Bleached fabrics show higher wicking height as compared to grey fabrics. It may be due to greater fabric thickness and porosity of bleached fabrics. Silicone finished fabrics show lower wicking height as compared to bleached fabrics; it may be due to hydrophobic nature of silicone finish.The result of ANOVA statistical technique indicated that there is a significant relationship between vertical wicking heightand fibre type, blend proportion, and processing stage, but in case of yarn count, the difference is insignificant at 0.05 significance level. Table 3.4- Influence of fibre composition and stages on vertical wicking height (cm) of modal blended knitted fabrics Fabric
Vertical wicking height (cm)
Sample
30:70
50:50
70:30
Code
24s
30s
24s
30s
24s
30s
GMC
2.5
1.9
2.4
1.6
2.0
1.2
GMV
1.3
0.8
1.1
0.7
1.0
0.5
GMP
3.0
2.3
2.8
2.1
2.5
2.0
BMC
9.7
9.5
9.6
8.4
9.0
8.1
BMV
8.0
7.7
7.9
7.6
7.8
7.4
BMP
10.6
9.8
10.2
9.6
10.0
9.3
FMC
8.7
7.5
8.1
7.2
7.7
6.6
FMV
7.0
6.4
6.8
6.2
6.5
6.1
FMP
8.9
8.0
8.8
7.9
8.2
7.6
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
* G=Grey, B=Bleach, F=Finish, M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose & P=Polyester
Fig. 3.4(a) Variation in vertical wicking heightwith increase in modal contentfor different fibre.
174
Fig. 3.4(b) Variation in vertical wicking height with increase in yarn fineness for different wet processing stages.
3.5 Thermal Insulation: The variation in the thermal insulationwith different fibres, blend proportions, yarn counts and processing stages of all type of fabrics are given in the Table 3.5.The porosity percentage and fabric thickness is higher in case of polyester blended fabrics, they show higher insulation property. With increase in modal content, thermal insulation reduces in the blended fabrics; it may due to reduced fabric thickness and porosity.Coarse count fabrics have higher fabric thickness which may result in lower thermal conductivity. Bleached fabrics have higher fabric thickness when compared to grey fabrics resulting in lower thermal conductivity.Finished fabrics show slightly higher insulation than bleached fabrics which may be due to chemical nature of silicon finish.The result of ANOVA statistical technique indicated that there is a significant relationship between thermal insulationand fibre type, blend proportion, and processing stage, but in case of yarn count, the difference is insignificant at 0.05 significance level.
Solutions That Can Enhance Your Brand Add life to your business ideas with our Brand Building Solutions September - October 2019
KNITTING Table 3.5- Influence of fibre composition and stages on thermal insulation (clo) of modal blended knitted fabrics Fabric
Thermal Insulation (clo)
Sample
30:70
50:50
70:30
Code
24s
30s
24s
30s
24s
30s
GMC
0.4635
0.4471
0.4585
0.4285
0.4305
0.4000
GMV
0.4429
0.4116
0.4315
0.3927
0.4165
0.3875
GMP
0.5469
0.5203
0.5334
0.4958
0.5160
0.4865
BMC
0.4841
0.4501
0.4736
0.4425
0.4478
0.4156
BMV
0.4533
0.4321
0.4468
0.4277
0.4387
0.4136
BMP
0.5751
0.5511
0.5536
0.5394
0.5403
0.5266
FMC
0.5102
0.4802
0.4988
0.4600
0.4752
0.4298
FMV
0.4733
0.4678
0.4699
0.4412
0.4551
0.4371
FMP
0.5928
0.5543
0.5792
0.5402
0.5598
0.5322
* G=Grey, B=Bleach, F=Finish, M=Modal, C=Cotton, V=Viscose & P=Polyester
Fig. 3.5 (b) Variation in thermal insulation with increase in yarn fineness for different wet processing stages.
4. Conclusions 4.1 The air permeability has been found to be higher in case of modal/polyester blended knitted fabrics and finer yarn count. It is seen that air permeability decreases with increase in modal content and is higher in case of grey fabrics as compared to bleached and finished stage. 4.2 It has been found that the total absorbency is higher in case of modal/viscose blended knitted fabrics as compared to modal/polyester and modal/cotton. It also shows an increasing trend with increase in modal percentage and higher values for finer yarn count. Moreover, it was found to be higher in case of grey as compared to bleached and finished stage.
Align your company with the growing authority in Textiles September - October 2019
4.3 It has been found that the water vapour permeability is higher in case of modal/viscose blended knitted fabrics as compared to modal/polyester and modal/ cotton. The water vapour permeability is higher in case of 70% modal content, finer yarn count and for grey stage as compared to bleached and finished stage. 4.4 It has been found that the vertical wicking height is higher in case of modal/polyester blended knitted fabrics and coarse yarn count. It is seen that vertical wicking height is higher in case of 30% modal content and at bleached stage as compared to grey and finished stage. 4.5 It has been observed that the thermal insulation is higher in case of modal/polyester blended knitted fabrics, for coarser yarn count and for 30% modal content. It is seen that thermal insulation is higher in case of finished as compared to grey and bleached stage. 175
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Fig. 3.5(a) Variation in thermal insulationwith increase in modal content for different fibre.
KNITTING
6.
7.
8.
9.
88(3), pp. 255-264, 1997. T. Suganthi& P. Senthilkumar, "Comfort properties of double face knitted fabrics for tennis sportswear," Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR), Vol. - 43, pp. 9-19, 2018. J.R. Ajmeri& S.S. Bhattacharya, ?Comparative Analysis of The Thermal Comfort Properties of Knitted Fabrics Made of Cotton And Modal Fibres", International Journal of Textile And Fashion Technology (IJTFT), vol.-3 Issue 1, March 2013. KichidayuSawazaki,? Water Absorbency of Fabrics", TMSJ, Fukui University, vol.-10, no.5, pp. 229-235, 1964. K. Slater, "Comfort Properties of Textiles", Textile Progress, vol.-9, no.-4, pp. 11-20, 1977. ❑ ❑ ❑
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
References 1. Z. Deiirmenci, M. Topalbekiroilu Effects of weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics".FIBRES& TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, vol.-18, no.-3 (80) pp. 81-85, 2010. 2. Z. M. Abdel Megeid, M.Al-bakry and M.Ezzat, The influence of stitch length of weft knitted fabrics on the sewability", Journal of American Science, no.- 7(8), 2011. 3. SK Punj, A Mukhopadhyay, P Chatterjee. Plain Knitted Properties". Textile Asia, vol.-31, PP. 3338, 2008. 4. D. J Spencer, knitting technology" Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, 3rd edition, 2001. 5. B.K. Behera, S.M. Ishtiaque, and S. Chand, Comfort Properties of Fabrics Woven from Ring, Rotor-, and Friction-spun Yarns", J. Text.Inst., vol.-
176
September - October 2019
DYEING
PEER REVIEWED
Creation of Unique Designs Through Resist Dyeing with Natural Dyes 1
Leyla Yildirim*1, Özlenen Erdem Ismal1 & Bike G. Saiduyu2 Faculty of Fine Arts, Dokuz Eylül University, Department of Textile and Fashion, Izmir, Turkey 2 Sun Tekstil San. ve Tic. A.S. Research and Development Center, Izmir, Turkey Abstract This work involves use of domestic and industrial wastes as natural dyes in textile design to create a garment collection through industrial collaboration. Colouring and patterning of the wool, cotton, polyamide, cotton/polyamide blend fabrics were carried out by applying various resist dyeing techniques with organic wastes such as almond shell, prina, banana peel, rosemary, faba bean peel, onion skin, walnut shell, artichoke, pomegranate peel and environmentally friendly metal salts such as alum[KAl(SO4)2 12H2O], iron II sulfate (FeSO47H2O) and biomordants. Washing and rubbing fastness of dyed samples are excellent (4/5). Some suggestions for accurate application of natural dyes in industrial mass production were also presented and significance of natural dyes in creative and sustainable textile design has been noted. Keywords Textile design, natural dyeing, organic wastes, garment, resist dyeing techniques, mordant
*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. Dr. Leyla Yildirim Dokuz Eylül University Faculty of Fine Arts, Department of Textile and Fashion Design Tinaztepe Yerleskesi, Adatepe Mah.Dogus Cad. No: 209 35390 Buca-Izmir/TURKEY Phone: +90-232-3016701 Fax: +90-232-3016721 Email : leya.yildirm_deu.edu.tr September - October 2019
colouristic values, symbolic powers and therapeutic functions and green mined consumer's priority for organic food with natural colours. Natural dyes are regaining its importance in global society because of growing awareness of the threats on natural environments worldwide [4]. The rose wastes which appeared as an industrial waste in Isparta and its surroundings and which are thought to be disposed of in terms of environment have been used for dyeing carpet yarns [5]. There are also studies on extracts of rosemary, lavender [6]. Molasses syrup, a waste in sugar production, is extracted and dyed with wool fibers using metal mordants and citric acid [7]. Pulp of lavander remaining from lavender oil, Spartium junceum, pulp of Dimrit grape used in wine making is used to dye wool yarns [8]. A novel application of using orange peel as a new natural dyestuff with strong ultraviolet absorbance was reported [9]. Plant wastes that are released from the food and beverage industry (raspberries, sour cherries, black elder, black currant, black tea and black carrots) can be used in dyeing of wool yarns. The authors carried out a project on valorization of outer green shells of almond fruit in natural dyeing of wool fiber [10]. Subsequently, effects of plasma treatment [11], biomordants [12] and possible replacement of metallic mordants with biomordants [13] were ex177
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
1. Introduction Today, environmentalist approaches have played an important role in raising natural dyeing in terms of renewable energy. In this context, many people, from scientists to artists, work in various fields. Using natural fauna and flora will cause some disadvantages when considering the increasing world population. Therefore, the use of organic wastes as textile colorants will be a new option. Researchers tend to use organic industrial wastes as natural dyes [1]. Renewable raw material dyes called Earthcolors made from 100% agricultural wastes such as waste leaves, walnut, olive, rosemary, almond shells, hazelnut shells were launched by Archroma[2]. Studies regarding use of natural dyes in printing are also available. Mercerized cotton fabrics were colored by pigment printing method with the use of the extracts obtained from the five different natural dye sources "pomegranate peel, nutshell, orange tree leaves, alkanet roots and dyer's chamomile [3]. Natural dyes went on being used and are still used traditionally by artists because of their different and aesthetic
DYEING amined by using this agro industrial waste. Researches on the evaluation of organic wastes as natural dye such as prina [14], [15]and rose pulp [5] were reported. Resist dyeing is one of the oldest techniques of colouring and embellishing fabrics and is used around the World by using a variety of processes, tools and materials with varied results. Resist dyeing decorates fabrics by controlling the flow or placement of dye or paint. It helps in the creation of imagery, intricate patterning and interesting dye effects. There are many resist types and techniques, some as old as dyeing itself and some brand new with undiscovered potential [16]. Sappan wood bark, purple cabbage, basil, and mango peel were used in tie dye (folding, crimping, wrapping, clamping, and sewing) to produce colorful and beautiful scarves [17]. Natural dyes have wide range of research and application areas for designers in terms of producing unique and high value added textile products. There are fewer studies on the use of natural dyes in textile design through different resist dyeing techniques. This study focuses on this topic. Within the scope of industrial collaboration, a garment collection was prepared by patterning and coloring different fabrics with organic wastes and various resist techniques.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
2. Material and method The study was carried out in two stages. These steps consist of creation of color gamut to be used in the collection and patterning of garments through resist dyeing. Fabrics were dyed with natural dyes extracted from organic wastes and environmentally friendly mordants. 2.1 Fabrics ◆ Cotton Jersey (100% Cotton, 130g/m2, 28 fein) ◆ Cotton/Polyamide blend Crep Single Jersey,(71% Cotton/ 29% PA, 100g/m2, 28 fein) ◆ Polyamide/Elastane Blend Single Jersey (87% PA / 13% EA, 140g/m2, 36 fein) ◆ Combed cotton Ribana (100% Cotton, 145g/m2, 20 fein) ◆ Wool (100% wool, 140g/m2 ) 2.2. Wastes used as natural dye sources Outer green shell of almond, prina, banana peel, onion skin, rosemary, faba bean peel, walnut shell, artichoke and pomegranate peel were used in the study. 178
2.3. Mordants Metallic and biomordants were used namely alum, iron II sulfate, pomegranate peel and rosemary. 2.4. Extraction and Dyeing Based on the researchers' previous works, almond shells, prina and rosemary (as biomordant) were used as 6.6 g/L [10], 80 g/L [14]and 12 g/L [12], [13] respectively. According to pre trials, faba bean (20 g/L), onion skin (10 g/L), banana peel (20 g/L) and walnut shell (10 g/L) were extracted by boiling in water for 1 hour. After extraction, the lost volume was brought up and extract was cooled down to room temperature. Fabric (3 g) was dyed by simultaneous mordanting method at a liquor ratio of 50:1 in Ataç brand IR (Turkey) laboratory dyeing machine.Dyeings were conducted by raising the temperature gradually (about 10C/min) up to 1000C, and keeping at this temperature for 60 minutes. Alum and iron II sulfate (0.2-0.8-1.6 g/L) were used as mordants. Control sample without mordant was also prepared for comparison. The samples providing the best color yields were determined. Considering aesthetic appearance, patterns have been applied onto fabric or garment after dyeing with selected recipes. Lace, ribbons and accessories etc. were also dyed by using the same recipes. 2.5. Testing Washing (ISO105 C 06-at 400C for 30 min.) and rubbing fastness (ISO 105 X 12) tests were performed. 2.6. Method of Patterning From technical point of view, resist dyeing is implemented in three ways; namely physical, mechanical and chemical methods [18]. In physical resist dyeing; yarn, fabric or product is resisted by tying, knotting or folding without any mechanical or chemical processing. In mechanical resist dyeing; process is carried out by using auxiliary materials such as yarn, rubber, clamp etc. In chemical resist dyeing; the areas to be reserved are dyed by covering with materials such as rice paste, mud, wax, starch, clay, etc. to obtain patterned surfaces. Resist dyeing which has different names in many cultures is one of the simplest techniques for designing textiles. In this study, mechanical and physical resist dyeing techniques were implemented through methods of binding, sewing, compression and their variations September - October 2019
DYEING depending on models of garments (Figures 1-3).
3. Results and discussion In this study, a natural color gamut with various shades and patterned surfaces were obtained by using different fabrics, organic wastes and resist dyeing technique. As metallic mordants, alum and iron II sulfate mordants were preferred due to ecological concerns. Widespread use of iron II sulfate by many researchers was also reported [20, 21]. Aluminium mordanting agents are commonly used and considered among the safest in the application of natural dyes to cellulosic textiles. Concentration of mordants were generally 5%, 10%, and 20% owf [22].
Figure 1. Tying resist technique [19]
Table 1 shows color samples obtained by using different natural dyes, fabrics and mordants. During the design process, garments were produced with fabrics dyed and patterned by applying five kinds of selected natural dyes (onion skin, rosemary, almond shell, faba bean and banana peel). Table 1. Color samples
September - October 2019
Recipes
Walnut
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, without mordant
Walnut
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 1.6 g/L alum
Walnut
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 1.6 g/L alum
Almond
Polyamide/cottton blend fabric, without mordant
Almond
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 0.2 g/L alum
Almond
Cotton jersey fabric, 1.6 g/L alum
Almond
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric 1.6 g/L alum
Almond
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 1.6 g/L alum
Almond
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 0.2 g/L iron II sulfate
Almond
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 0.2 g/L iron II sulfate
Almond
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Almond
Cotton jersey fabric, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Figure 2. Sewing resist technique [19]
Figure 3. Folding resist technique [19]
Colors
179
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Plants
DYEING Almond
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 1.6 iron II sulfate
Artichoke
Cotton jersey fabric, 6 g/L iron II sulfate
Prina and Pomegranate
Cotton jersey fabric, prina + 20 g/L Pomegranate
Artichoke
Cotton jersey fabric, 1.6 g/L alum
Pomegranate
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 80 g/L Pomegranate
Artichoke
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric without mordant
Pomegranate
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 20g/L Pomegranate
Artichoke
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric without mordant
Rosemary
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 20 g/L Rosemary
Onion
Cotton jersey fabric, 0.2 g/L alum
Rosemary
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 40 g/L Rosemary
Onion
Cotton jersey fabric, 0.2 g/L iron II sulfate
Artichoke
Polyamide/cotton blend fabric, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Artichoke
Polyamide/elastane blend fabric, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Garments were sewn either after dyeing (Figures 4, 6, 7, 9, 11) or dyed after sewing (Figure 5, 8, 10) depending on model. Details of designs are presented in Table 2.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Table 2. Procedures of designs
Designs
Fabric
Resist Technique
Natural Dye
Dyeing Step
Mordant
Design 1
wool
stitch, tying
almond shell, banana peel
before sewing
1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Design 2
polyamide
stitch
almod shell
after sewing
without mordant
Design 3
wool
stitch, tying, folding
onion skin, faba bean peel
before sewing
0.8 g/L alum 1,6 g/L iron II sulfate
Design 4
cotton/ polyamide
stitch,
almond shell
before sewing
without mordant 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate, acetic acid
Design 5
cotton and cotton/ polyamide
stitch, tying,
onion skin,
after sewing
0.8 g/L alum 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Design 6
cotton/ polyamide
stitch, tying, wrapping folding
onion skin,
before sewing
1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Design 7
wool
stitch, tying,
rosemary
after sewing
1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Design 8
wool
clamping
onion skin
before sewing
without mordant 0.8 g/L alum 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate
Raise your profile in global technical textiles 180
September - October 2019
DYEING Random and unrepeatable visual effects enrich the patterns. Moreover, over dyeing with various natural dyes has been tried with different resist techniques. Figure 4a and Figure 4b demonstrate technical drawing and garment dyed with almond shell after stitch resist respectively. Vertically stitched wool fabric (90x180 cm) was dyed with almond shell extract without mordant. This fabric was re-tied and dyed with banana peel and iron II sulfate.
For a model in pink shades, a dress made of polyamide/elastane blend fabric with side wings was prepared by stitch resist to form strips and subsequently dyed with almond shell extract. Figure 5a and Figure 5b indicate technical drawing and finished form of the second design respectively. In this design, sewn garment was dyed almond shell extract after stitch resist application.
After consecutive resist and dyeing process, tie and stitch resist parts of the dried fabric were removed. This design is a seamless garment form made of a simple rectangle with only edge seams.
Figure 5a. Design 2
Figure 5b. Design 2, almond shell, stitching and tying resist Figure 4b. Design 1,shwal, almond shell, stitch resist, iron II sulfate September - October 2019
Figure 6a and Figure 6b demonstrate technical drawing and the garment dyed with onion skin after stitch 181
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 4a. Design 1
DYEING resist respectively. Different parts of the garment were dyed by using onion skin extract. This garment with simple geometric form was cut only for arm, neck and belt parts. Onion skin extract was used with 0.8 g/L alum, 1.6 g/ L iron II sulfate and without mordant. Alum and iron II sulfate give yellow and olive shades respectively. Different resist techniques were used to obtain each color. Stitch resist was applied in dyeing with onion skin without mordant and with alum (0.8 g/L). After two dyeings, iron II sulfate (1.6 g /L) was partially used (Figure 6b).
ton/polyamide blend and polyamide/elastane blend fabric. In artistic works, color differences are tolerated irrespective of the recipes. Moreover, different effects are required to provide visual diversity in design. For this purpose, watercolor effect was achieved by applying acetic acid after dyeing in the work shown in Figure 7b.
Figure 7a. Design 4
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 6a. Design 3
Figure 7b. Design 4, almond shell,stitching and tying resist, alum, iron II sulfate and acetic acid.
Figure 6b. Design 3, onion skin, stitching and tying resist, alum, iron II sulfate
Technical drawing of Design 4 is shown in Figure 7a. Almond shell extract produces pink shade both in cot182
Technical drawing of the blouse is seen in Figure 8a. The garment shown in Figure 8b was dyed with onion skin,stitching and tying resist after sewing.The body and sleeves of this garment were made of cotton and cotton/polyamide blend fabrics respectively to obtain different color shades by using the same natural dye. September - October 2019
DYEING Besides stitch resist technique, different patterns were obtained on the body and arm parts with various stitch types and directions.
Figure 8a. Design 5
Figure 9b. Design 6, onion skin, stitching, tying, wraping, folding, iron II sulfate.
The simplest garment models with less stitches as seen in Figure 4, 6, 9, 11 were preferred to highlight the visual effects of natural dyes. It is easier to dye this kind of models before sewing. Thus, patterning with the resist technique is made in a more controlled manner. Stitching, tying, wraping, folding and dyeing with onion skin and iron II sulfate were applied in Design 6 shown in Figure 9a and Figure 9b.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 8 b. Design 5, onion skin,stitching and tying resist alum and iron II sulfate.
In order to see the effect of sewing thread on design, design 7 shown in Figure 10a was produced. The fiber of sewing yarn used in patterning is also of great importance. For example, if the garment made of wool fabric is sewn with synthetic yarn, different dyeing effects occur. Therefore, sewing process should be implemented in a way to contribute to creation of the design. Black shade was achieved by rosemary in conjunction with iron II sulfate in garment seen in Figure 10b. The same plant produces similar colors with different fabrics. However, the wool fabric provided better color yield than other fibres.
Figure 10a. Design 7 Figure 9a. Design 6 September - October 2019
183
DYEING
Figure 11c. Design 8 (back), onion skin,clamping, 0.8 g/L alum, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate. Figure 10b. Design 7, rosemary, stitch, tying, iron II sulfate
Clamping is another resist dyeing technique. Clamp resist was applied in the design shown in Figure 11a. If the clamps contains any metal, the visual effect can be enriched by rusted areas occuring after dyeing (Figure 11b and Figure 11c). The garment was reserved with mangle and dyed with onion skin, alum (0.8 g/L) and iron II sulfate iron (1.6 g / L).
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 11a. Design 8
Figure 11b. Design 8 (front),onion skin,clamping, 0. 8 g/L alum, 1.6 g/L iron II sulfate. 184
4. Conclusion This work covers the use of domestic and industrial wastes as natural dyes in textile design to create a garment collection through industrial collaboration with a textile factory (Sun Tekstil San. ve Tic. A.S. Research and Development Center).Garments with rich visual effects were presented by using various resist dyeing techniques and environmentally friendly mordants. All of the dyed samples exhibited good washing and rubbing (4/5) fastness values. Diversity of colors obtained by natural dyes with and without of mordants contributes to reveal of rich and unique desings. Besides eco friendly metal mordants, valorization of domestic and industrial wastes as natural mordants would make such kind of studies more fruitful. It is possible to obtain faster results through methods and applications to be developed in each step of the process in these labor intensive works. Generally, natural dyeing has some disavantages in industrial mass production processes. However, consumers demand ecofriendly products and ecological legislations force to environmentally friendly clean production methods. Following points can be suggested for creative and accurate implementation of natural dyeing in the factory. ◆ Making natural wastes more efficient using industrial extraction process, ◆ Using a separate natural dyeing system, ◆ Widening of the color gamut with different mordanting methods, ◆ Use of various and appropriate resist apparatus according to desired effects to be obtained, ◆ Preparation of simple, functional clothing forms September - October 2019
DYEING
Declaration of Conflicting Interests The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article. Funding This work was supported by the TÜBITAK (Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey) under Grant [216M004]. Acknowledgement Authors acknowledge TÜBITAK (Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey) for providing financial support to this project (Grant number: 216 M 004]. References 1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Bechtold T., Turcanu A. , Ganglberger E., Geissler S., "Natural Dyes In Modern Textile Dyehouses - How To Combine Experiences of Two Centuries To Meet The Demands of The Future?" Journal of Cleaner Production 11, 499-509, (2003). https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/ archroma-launches-fully-traceable-dyes-made-naturalwaste-td-20547/ accessed date:10.10.2018. Bahtiyari M. ?., Benli H., Yava? A., AkçaC., "Use of Different Natural Dye Sources for Printing of Cotton Fabrics", Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 27, (3), 259-265, (2017). Senthilkumar R.P., Bhuvaneshwari V., Sathiyavimal S., Amsaveni R., Kalaiselvi M., Malayaman V, Natural Colours from Dyeing Plants for Textiles, International Journal of Biosciences and Nanosciences, 2 (7),160174, (2015). Oktav M., Baydar H.,Akar E., Katyonikle?tirilmi? Pamuklu Kuma??n Gül Posas? ile Do?al Boyanmas? ve Hasl?k Özelliklerinin ?ncelenmesi, Erciyes Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü Dergisi, 29 (3), 213-219, (2013). Akar E., Oktav M., Baz? Tekstil Boya Bitkilerinin Antibakteriyal Özellikleri ve Aktivitesi ?çin Kullan?lan Test Yöntemleri, Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi, Teknik Bilimler Dergisi, 3 (2) 1-6, (2013). Kayahan E. Karaboyac?, M. Melastan Elde Edilen Boyarmadde ile Ekolojik Yün Boyama, Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi, 8, (1), 8-22, (2014).
September - October 2019
8.
Karaboyac? M. and U?ur ?., Ecological wool dyeing with pulps of lavender, broom, and red wine,The Journal of The Textile Institute, 105,(8), 821-827, (2014). 9. Hou X, Chen X, Cheng Y, Xu H, Chen L and Yang Y., Dyeing and UV-Protection Properties of Water Extracts from Orange Peel, Journal of Cleaner Production, 52, 410-419. (2013). 10. ??mal, Ö.E., Y?ld?r?m L., Almond Shell as a Natural Colorant, Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 37 (4), 358-363, (2012). 11. ??mal, Ö.E., Özdo?an E., Y?ld?r?m L., An Alternative Natural Dye, Almond Shell Waste: Effects of Plasma and Mordants on Dyeing Properties, Coloration Technology, 129 (6), 431-437, (2013). 12. ??mal, Ö.E., Y?ld?r?m L., Esen Özdo?an, Use of almond shell extracts plus biomordants as effective textile dye, Journal of Cleaner Production, 70 (1), 61-67, (2014). 13. ??mal, Ö.E., Y?ld?r?m L., Özdo?an E., Valorisation of Almond Shell Waste in Ultrasonic Biomordanted Dyeing: Alternatives to Metallic Mordants,Journal of The Textile Institute, 106 (4), 343-353, (2015). 14. ??mal, Ö.E., A Route From Olive Oil Production to Natural Dyeing: Valorisation of Prina (Crude Olive Cake) as a Novel Dye Source, Coloration Technology,130(2), 147-153, (2014). 15. ??mal, Ö.E., Greener natural dyeing pathway using a by-product of olive oil; prina and biomordants, Fibers and Polymers 18(4),773-785, (2017). 16. https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/ 141947/4/04_chapter1.pdf 17. Chanoknart Mayusoh, The art of designing, fabric pattern by tie-dyeing with natural dyes 7th World Conference on Educational Sciences, (WCES-2015), 05-07 February 2015, Novotel Athens Convention Center, Athens, Greece, Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, 197 ( 2015 ) 1472 - 1480 18. Wells, K. 'Invent-Reinvent Itajime' Digital Created Board Clamping. The 2nd International Textiles and Costume Congress, (2013). 19. Wada Yoshiko Iwamato, Mary Kellogg Rice, Jane Barton (1999). Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing,Kodansha International, Japan, 56, 75, 121 20. Li Yan Vivian, Malensek Nicholas, Sarkar Ajoy K., and Xiang, Chunhui Colorfastness Properties of Persimmon Dye on Cotton and Wool Fabrics, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 34(3) 223-234, (2016). 21. M.D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Siddhesh Chaudhari, Ecofriendly herbal Dyeing for Wellness, Journal of Textile Association, 78(3),163-171, (2017). [22] Haar Sherry, Schrader Erica and Gatewood Barbara M. Comparison of Aluminum Mordants on the Colorfastness of Natural Dyes on Cotton, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(2) 97-108, (2013).
❑❑❑ 185
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
for overdyeing and over-resisting techniques. ◆ Studying on natural wastes and by-products to present alternative biomordants, ◆ Choosing accesories material and yarns compatible with the fabric Original patterns achieved by using rich and unique colors of natural dyes open new doors to creative textile design.
PEER REVIEWED
FINISHING
Effect of Flame Retardant Finish on Tasar Silk Fabric Veena Verma*1, Shilpa P. Charanka*2 & G. S. Nadige*3 Dept. of Textile Science & Apparel Design, Dr. B.M.N. College of Home Science, Mumbai 2 Seva Mandal Education Society, Matunga, Mumbai 3 Federation for Development of Accreditation Services, Gurgaon, Haryana
1
Abstract Silk, the "queen of Textiles" is used for luxury fabrics, high-fashion items and for garments worn on important occasions. Silk is a natural protein fibre which contains only natural amino acid units. Tasar filament is one of the wild varieties of silk, coarser than that of mulberry silk.In terms of flammability, silk as protein fibre retards, however, the flammability also depends on geometric properties of the fabrics and garments.Thus,flame retardant properties for silk are greatly beneficial.Commercially available FR finishing agent was applied in four different concentrations using pad-dry-cure method.The flammability test was done by using 450inclined plane test method. To study the effect of FR finish on mechanical properties of silk fabrics, the testing was done according to IS standard methods in standard atmospheric condition. An attempt was made, to study Morphological changes due to finishing using SEM. The durability of the finish was tested for FR properties after few cycles of dry cleaning. Add on percent increased and moisture content decreased with respect to increase in concentration of FR chemical. In general mechanical properties like fabric density, GSM, stiffness, abrasion resistance, crease recovery and strength related properties vary according to concentration of the FR chemical. At 30% concentration the finish is found to be durable and there was no remarkable effect of FR chemical on the tasar silk fabric.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Keywords Dry cleaning, Flame retardant, SEM, Tasar Silk
1. Introduction Silk is a natural protein fibre and it is viewed as an environmentally favourable fibre because it is an animal fibre and contains only natural amino acid units. Silk is used for luxury fabrics and high-fashion items and is used for garments worn on feast days, festivals, and othercermonialoccasions of great importance.[1] Performance of Textile materials for different end uses depend entirely on its quality that is the ultimate requirement for marketability of a product. Important quality attributes in textiles and clothing are 'Comfort', 'Aesthetic', 'Functional', 'Safety' and 'Ecological Characteristics'. These characteristics can be imparted through appropriate choice of fibre or through physical modification or chemical finishing based on envisaged needs for specific end uses. The only class of fibre that conforms to most of the above five characteristics is the silk fibre. Silk is hence accredited as "Queen of *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Veena Verma Associate Professor, HOD Dept. Textile Sc. and Apparel Design Dr. B.M.N. College of Home Science 338 R.A. Kidwai Road Matunga Mumbai 400019 Mobile No. 9821112111 Email : veenaver@gmail.com 186
Textiles".[2,3] In spite of its high cost, silk has been one of the most popular fabrics because of its unique properties. Silk is prized for its lightness with warmth, sheerness with strength, and delicacy with resilience. Silk combines good moisture absorption, fine hygroscopic property and good permeability as well as having a special feature as kin to human skin.[4,5,6,7] Tasar Silk is also known by its Sanskrit name `Kosa Silk'. Tasar silk has a duller luster because of its coarser size, less-regular surface, and presence of tannin and sericin with natural pigment embedded in it. Fabrics made of tasar silk have a more pronounced texture in filament form.[8] Tasar is valued for its rich texture and natural deep gold color. Tasar Silk is less expensive and dull due to presence of tannin in it, as compared to cultivated silk because of its short fiber length.[9] In terms of flammability, silk might be the vulnerablefiber with a high burning rate, which can be further, increased by dyes and other additives. Thus, Silk is the fibers for which flame retardant properties would be greatly beneficial.[1] Flame retardants are chemicals which are added to September - October 2019
FINISHING combustible materials to render them more resistant to ignition. They are designed to minimize the risk of a fire starting in case of contact with a small heat source such as cigarette, candle or an electrical fault. If the flame retarded materials has ignited, the flame retardant will slow down combustion and prevent fire from spreading to other items. Since the term "flame retardant" describes a function and not a chemicals class, there is a wide range of different chemicals which are used for this purpose. The main types of flame retardants are based on compounds containing Halogens (bromine and chlorine), Brominated flame retardants (BFRS), Phosphorus, Nitrogen Minerals (based on aluminium and magnesium) and others.[10] Many categories of textiles have been subjected to chemical finishing processes, to avoid flame related accidents. Understanding of fibre characteristics towards fire enables one to take many precautions and protection through textiles. Then arose the property called fire retardancy or flame retardancy. It is expected that the textiles treated with FR chemical should be durable and sustain certain cycles of washing to make them viable. Depending upon the mode of application and reaction type, durability of FR chemicals in textiles can be classified as; Non-Durable Flame Retardant Finish, Semi-Durable Flame Retardant Finish and Durable Flame Retardant Finish.[11] Keeping the above factors in the background, the flame retardant chemicals were applied to achieve the following objectives. i.
To study the flammability properties of Tasar silk fabrics by using 45 degree inclined plane test method
ii. iii. iv.
To study the effect of Flame Retardant finish on mechanical properties of Tasar silk fabric. To assess the changes in morphological structure of tasar silk fabric due to flame retardant finish. To assess the durability of the flame retardant finish on Tasar silk by dry cleaning.
2. Materials and Methodology The pure Tasar silk fabric (filament X filament) was procured from Chhattisgarh. Prior to application of Flame retardant finish, the fabric was desized/scoured using enzyme Amylase[12]. The desized sample was treated as control sample. Commercially available flame retardant finishing agent which is an Organic Phosphonate flame retardant with non-saline characteristicswas applied on the per-treated tasar silk fabric in four different concentrations using pad-drycure method.The flammability test was carried out as per Indian Standard (IS 11871-1986 reaffirmed in 2004) method B based on 450 inclination flame test, which covers the evaluation of flammability of textiles, intended to be used in clothing for control and flame retardant finished fabrics. To study the effect of flame retardant finish on performance properties of silk fabrics, important performance properties like tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, bending length, moisture content, thread density, GSM and fabric crease recovery angle were evaluated for both control and FR chemical treated fabrics. The physical testing was done as per IS methods in standard atmosphere of 65% Âą 2%relative humidity and 27o C Âą 2o C temperature. An attempt was made, to study Morphological changes due to finishing using Scanning Electron Microscope. To study the durability of the finish, treated fabrics were tested for flame retardant properties after dry cleaning. The selected FR finished fabrics were subjected to one, three, five and seven cycles of dry cleaning.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
INDIA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY EXHIBITION INDIA-ITME 2020 Dec. 10-15, 2020 India Exposition Mart, Knowledge Park - II, Greater Noida September - October 2019
187
FINISHING 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Study of Flammability, Add on % and Moisture content of FR treated Tasar Silk fabric Table 1: Flammability, weight add on and moisture content of control and FR treated fabric samples
Concentration of FR Chemical (%)
Flammability Time in Secs for flame to spread
Weight Add on Moisture (%) After final Content Processing with (%) respect to bone dry wt.
0% (Control)
8
-
8.8
For Inclined Flammability, Ignition time 1
10%
10.3
3.6
8.6
Second, "Nil" indicates that sample does
15%
9.8
9.0
8.45
Second, "Nil" indicates that sample does
20%
8.6
13.8
8.25
x to ignite. All results are given on the
30%
Nil
29.7
8.1
basis of mean value.
The Tasar silk samples were treated with FR Finishing chemical with 10%, 15%,20%, and 30% of concentrations. From the Table 1, it may be observed that control sample and treated samples up to the concentration of 20 percent took 8 - 10 seconds to spread the flame to the standard distance, while treated sample at a concentration of 30 % did not ignite and propagate flame. Thus, the treated fabric at a concentration of 30 % of the FR Chemical possesses functional property of FR finish, providing flame retardant property. Weight add on percent describes the percentage by weight of solids left on fabric after finishing and drying which is related to the specific chemical used. Table 1 gives the data on the weight add on percentand moisture content of control and FR treated Tasar fabric samples. The weight add on percent of fabric treated with flame retardant chemical was between the range
Remarks
of 3.6 % and 29.7 % and showed an ascending order as function of increase in concentration of the FR treatment chemical from 10 % to 30 %. Maximum add on percent was 29.7 % at 30 % concentration of the FR chemical. It may be seen from Table 1 that the moisture content decreased from 8.8 % in control sample to 8.1 % for the highest concentration (30%) treated Tasar fabric sample. It may be pointed out that the FR finish during binding in the fabric matrix appears to block some of the hydrophilic groups present in Tasar silk fibroin along with entrapping the micro voids present in the interstitials of fibrils of Tasarfiber. Hence, the observed phenomenon of marginal decrease in the moisture content percent due to the FR treatment may be attributed to the decreasing hydrophilic groups and blocking of the micro voids present in fiber matrix.[13]
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
ADVERTISE IN
JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact:
THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org
188
September - October 2019
FINISHING 3.2 Study of Mechanical Properties of FR treated Fabric sample
Figure 3: Effect of FR finishing chemical on stiffness properties
Figure 2: Effect of FR finishing chemical on gsm Figure 4: Effect of FR finishing chemical on flexural rigidity
September - October 2019
189
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Figure 1: Effect of FR finishing chemical on fabric density
FINISHING
Figure 5: Effect of FR finishing chemical on crease reovery angle
Figure 6: Effect of FR finishing chemical on abrasion resistance
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
figure 7: Effect of FR finishing chemical on breaking strength
Figure 8: Effect of FR finishing chemical on Elongation %
190
Figure 9: Effect of FR finishing chemical on tearing strength
Table 2 gives the data on different mechanical Properties of Tasar Silk Fabric Control and Treated with Flame Retardant Finishing Chemical. Based on the evaluation of the mechanical properties, the following observations/remarks are made: ◆ Ends per Inch increased with increase in FR concentration. Picks per inch has reduced and this may be due to fabric shrinkage occurring during processing/application of FR chemical. ◆ It is observed that there is reduction in GSM on application of FR Finish. This may be due to removal of sericin during processing treatment. Add on percent did not impact GSM. ◆ The results show that the warp way bending length of Fabrics reduces and weft way increases. Fabrics became harsh and stiff on treatment with FR finish. Tasar fabric under untreated condition has the remnant sericin and tannin giving thereby stiffness to the fabric and as such the stiffness is likely to increase due to various FR Chemical treatments. ◆ In weft direction, there is increase in flexural rigidity which means the fabric has become stiffer. There is reduction in flexural rigidity in warp direction of the FR treated fabric. The observed phenomenon is attributed to predominance of the FR chemical treatment in the weft direction due to the yarn mechanics. However, no trend in terms of treatment and flexural rigidity is observed which may be due to high variation in the mechanical properties of the Tasar silk fabric as it is made on handlooms. ◆ It was observed that there was decrease in crease recovery angle in warp way and weft way as well as total angle.No trend in regard to treatment versus the crease recovery angle was observed. This may be due to heterogeneity in the handloom fabrics. ◆ Abrasion resistance as loss of weight of the Tasar September - October 2019
FINISHING
◆
◆
3.3 Study of Morphological structure using SEM Changes in morphological structure were observed using Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) ofcontrol and two FR finished samples.
Figure 11: SEM images of sample treated with FR chemical (15% concentration)
Figure 11 shows the SEM microphotograph of tasar silk fabric treated with 15% concentration of FR finishing agent. As could be seen from fabric, some sort of coating and impregnation are seen due to FR application. In addition to above, it appears chemical binding process is also involved which cannot be deciphered in SEM. It is pointed out that the treatment with 15% concentration does not impart satisfactory FR properties as compared to 30% concentration.
Figure 12: SEM images of sample treated with FR chemical (15% concentration) after 7 cycles of dry clean
Figure 12 shows the SEM microphotograph of tasar silk fabric treated with 15% concentration of FR finishing agent after 7 cycles of dry wash. There is abrasion due to washing process. Loosening of structure of filaments of yarn of the fabric is observed.
Figure 10: SEM images of control sample
Figure 10 shows the micro photograph of the control sample. It shows that surface is translucent and clear having some adhering non-fibrous particles which are due to presence of residual sericin. A close look at the individual filament shows fibrillar structure which is the inherent nature of morphology of tasar silk. September - October 2019
Figure 13: SEM images of sample treated with FR chemical (30% concentration)
Figure 13 shows the SEM microphotograph of tasar silk fabric treated with 30% concentration of finishing agent. As could be seen, different merchanisms such 191
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
◆
fabric was measured. As could be seen in figure 6 abrasion resistance decreased due to the treatment as compared to control sample. This may be due to poor binding of the FR Chemical on the fabric. However, no trend was observed in regard to various treatments. Visually no rupture was observed. Breaking strength decreased due to FR treatment using FR Chemical in both warp and weft directions. A typical trend is observed. With increase in percentage concentration of FR finish, there is decrease in breaking strength. Sample treated with 30% concentrated FR finish demonstrated a high level of flame retardancy[14]. Increase in Percentage Elongation was found for fabric treated with lower concentration of FR chemicals. There was marginal decrease in percentage elongation for fabrics treated with 20% and 30% concentration. This may be due to increase in stiffness of fabrics due to higher concentration of FR chemical. As observed by previous researchers, tearing strength of the fabric reduces on application of FR finishes. In present study, Tearing strength of the Tasar silk fabric decreased due to FR chemical treatment. In 15% and 20% concentrated FR finished fabric, there is increase in tearing strength in weft direction. . However, no trend could be established due the inhomogeneous properties of the handloom fabrics[14].
FINISHING as coating, impregnation and chemical bonding are predominant. The filaments are ruptured (loosening the fibers of the yarn of the fabric) due to the treatment. 30% concentration of FR finish treatment gave the best flame retardant property.
Figure 14: SEM images ofsampletreated with FR chemical (30% concentration) after 7 cycles of dry clean
Figure 14 is the SEM microphotography of fabric treated with 30% concentration of finishing agent after 7 cycles of dry clean. The coating has reduced. No significant change was noted after dry clean except reduction in morphology. Hence, the observed FR property is not exclusively due to coating. It is inferred that it is combination of impregnation and some sort of chemical bonding.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
3.4 Durability of FR finish According to the supplier of the FR chemical, the treatment is durable to only dry cleaning and it cannot withstand wet wash. Silk fabrics are recommended to be dry cleaned due to its inherent properties. Being protein fiber, it loses strength in wet conditions. To study the durability of the finish, the treated fabrics were tested for flame related properties after dry cleaning the finished fabrics for 3, 5 and 7 cycles of dry cleaning.
It was observed that only 30% concentrated FR treatment is durable up to 7 cycles of dry cleaning.There was some reduction in flame retardant properties of FR treated silk fabrics with finishing chemical after dry washing. 4. Conclusion Flame retardant fabrics are those that ignite with difficulty, burn slowly when they come in contact with fire, and self-extinguish when the source of flame is removed. The FR properties of the treated fabrics were not satisfactory for different concentrations ranging from 10% to 20% treatment. Hence, it may be inferred that a concentration of 30% gives the desired flame retardant properties to the Tasar fabric in respect of FR chemical. Added advantage is that there was no remarkable effect or deteriorating of the other functional and the physical properties of the tasar silk fabric. From SEM studies, it is inferred that the binding of the FR treatment chemical with the tasar silk fabric was due to coating, impregnation and chemical bonding. The filaments are ruptured to some extent due to the treatment. No significant change was noted after 7 cycles of dry clean.There was some reduction in flame retardance properties of finished silk fabrics after dry cleaning. It was observed that only 30% concentrated FR treatment is durableand lower concentration of FR chemical application was not suitable to imparet durable FR properties on Tasar fabric. References 1. Khan,Z.M.S. and SuryanarayanaN.,Tasar Silk Yarn and Fabric Production-Status and Future Prospects, Central Tasar Research and Training Institute (retrieved on 7.02.2012) 2. Holme I., International Dyer, 195(6), 11 (2010) 3. Morton W.E., HearleJ.S.W., Physical properties of textile fibres, 4th ed.; The Textile Institute and Butterworths, Manchester and London, UK, 354, (1962).
Table 3: Evaluation of durability of FR treatment chemicalon tasar fabric Concentration of Finish
Flammability after 1st Dry Cleaning
Flammability after 3rd Dry Cleaning
Flammability after 5th Dry Cleaning
Flammability after 7th Dry Cleaning
Remarks
10%
10.3
7.2
--
--
Nil indicates that the
15%
9.8
7.8
--
--
fabric did not ignite
20%
8.6
7.9
--
--
within the given time,
30%
Nil
Nil
Nil
Nil
hence termed as durable to dry cleaning.
(--) samples not selected for dry cleaning 192
September - October 2019
FINISHING 4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Corbman Bernard P., Textile; Fiber to Fabric sixth edition, McGraw-Hill International Editions Home Economic, 100 & 301, (1983) Joseph Marjory, Introductory Textile Science Second Edition, Holt, Rinehart and Winston Inc., New York, 102, (1972). Marjory J., Essentials of Textiles, Holt, Rinehart and Winston, New York, Chicago, San Francisco, Altanta, Dallas Montreal, Toronto, London, Sydney, (1976). Sonwalkar T N., Handbook of Silk Technology, 1st ed.,Wiley Eastern Limited New Delhi, 1, (1993). Hollen N., Sadller J., Langford A. L., Kadolf S. J., Textiles Sixth ed., Mac Millan publishing company, New York, 60 and 330, (1988)
9.
10. 11.
12. 13. 14.
Vigneswaran C., Ridhu N. D., Shilpa K., Dhanapal S., Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology & Management, 9(3), (2015). Menezes E., Paranjape M., Colourage, 51(7), 19, (2004). Mathur G.N., Hansraj, Kasturia N., Subhulakshmi M.S., Manmade Textiles in India,41/2(8), 87, (1998). Gulrajani M.L., Gupta S.V., Indian J. Fibre Textile Res., 19, 256, (1994). Nadiger G.S., Bhat N.V., Sericologia,(1984). Dinesh Y.N., Nadiger V.G., Handoo A., Singh R.N., Bahadur S., Colourage, (retrieved from: http:// cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=22572386) ❑❑❑
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org Follow us on
September - October 2019
193
PEER REVIEWED
REVIEW
Sustainable Fire Retardency of Textile Material using Bio-Macromolecule Santanu Basak* Department of Chemical & Biochemical Processing, Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Indian Council of Agricultural Research, Govt. of India, Abstract The field of flame retardency of materials is facing lot of challenges from last few years concerning to the eco-friendliness, sustainability etc. as the quantity of the chemicals used are high, toxic, expensive and it has detrimental effect ( strength and hand value degradation)on the material surface as the add-on% is much higher. Therefore the search is continued to find an easy, cheap eco-friendly fire retardant chemicals which can be effective even at low add-on% and has no detrimental effect when applied on the material surface. Scientists and researchers of different field, all over the world are trying in different scientific ways to improve flame retardency. Since last five years, researchers have used different bio-molecules for making fire resistant material. The review summarise the effect of recently use dbio-molecules (protein, plant, starch, chitosan based), and their mechanism behind the thermal stability of the textile polymer. Besides, context delivers brief knowledge regarding the thermal properties (thermo-gravimetry etc.), conventional uses of the bio-molecules itself. In addition, composition also enlighten us with the description of the comparison on the effect of different bio-molecules when it was imparted on the textile materials and also with the advantages, challenges of this unconventional field have been discussed as well.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Keywords Flame retardency, bio-molecules, mechanism, thermo-gravimetry.
1. Introduction Cellulosic textile catches flame readily and it is quite difficult to extinguish the same, resulting in serious health risk and damage of the textile products. Different chemicals have been used from sixteen century to improve the flame retardant property of the cellulosic textile. The most simple and common non-durable chemicals available in the market are inorganic salts, aluminium trihydrate, calcium carbonate, borax and boric acid mixture, di ammonium phosphate, urea, sodium metasilicate etc. [1,2] . Most of them have been worked by heat sink, heat barrier and condensed phase mechanism. Antimony in combination with halogen (worked in vapour phase mechanism) also very much popular in this field however, was not very successful due to the negative environmental impact of the halogen (especially bromine, chlorine) based compounds [1]. Indeed, these chemicals have been applied by back-coating mechanism for maintaining the physical properties and *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Santanu Basak Department of Chemical & Biochemical Processing, Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Indian Council of Agricultural Research, Govt. of India, Mumbai -400019, Email: shantanubasak@gmail.com, Tel.:+9643297075 194
hand value of the treated textile material. Phosphorous based flame retardant along with nitrogenous compound is the most effective treatment which has been reported so far due to their synergistic effect and condensed phase mechanism (char formation and change in pyrolysis path) of fire retardency. Consequently for the last fifty years, flame retardants based on the composition of phosphorous, nitrogen and halogen like Tetrakis phosphonium salt and N-alkyl phosphopropionamide derivatives are widely dominating in the market as commercial flame retardant products [1, 2]. However, when such formulations are applied on cotton fabric, its tear and tensile strengths are reduced, colour of the treated fabric has been damaged and the fabric became hard, plastic like stiff material as it is applied in acidic condition. Besides, the treatment is toxic, hazardous, expensive and also, time consuming due to involvement of high quantity chemical and high temperature curing process. In addition, more than 50ppm toxic formaldehyde has been released during the process and from the treated fabric. Connected to this problem, there is thrust to develop more cost effective, environmental friendly and sustainable fire retardant chemicals which when applied to the cotton fabrics maintain its quality to a great extent. In this direction, researchers have tried to reSeptember - October 2019
REVIEW duce the quantity of formaldehyde release from fire retardant fabric using different eco-friendly chemicals. However, development of an easily applicable, effective and environmental friendly, cheaper fire retardants for cellulose material are still a major concern for the researchers. Further, due to recent awareness about human health and hygiene, demand of cellulosic textile finishes with natural products, are getting attention in the research and development [3]. However, very few researches are reported on the application of plant extract for flame retardant finishing of any textile and/ or polymeric material [4]. As some of the plants are known to contain different oxides and salts of minerals, they may be suitably utilized to impart flame retardant properties of textile material [5, 6]. In the present manuscript, an attempt has been made to showcasing the research glimpse, connected with the exploration of the different protein and the plant based bio-products for making fire retardant textile. In addition, usage of other protein based bio-products explored for fire retardency of textiles so far, also have been discussed briefly.
2. Flame retardency by plant based bio products Banana pseudostem sap (BPS) is extracted from the outer sheath of pseudostem of banana tree (Musa Cavendish). It looks like colourless clean water immediately after extraction. However, with the passage of time, it slowly turns into natural light khaki colour due to the oxidation of phenolic rings present in it [5, 6]. Apart from the other end uses, very recently BPS also has been used to impart flame retardency to the cellulosic, lingo-cellulosic, protein textiles and paper substrates [7-10]. On the other hand green coconut shell extract (GCSE), a wastage product of the coconut tree, also has been explored for making fire retardant cellulosic paper material [11]. Connected to the fire retardant effectivity testing methods, The LOI, a measure of the flammability of a sample is defined as the minimum quantity of oxygen in the oxygen/nitrogen mixture that is required to support combustion. Textiles having LOI value more than 26, generally considered as fire retardant. The LOI values of the control, the mordanted and the BPS, GCSE treated jute and paper samples are given in Table 1.
Table 1: Flammability parameter of the control and the plant bio-products treated textile material
Flammability
Control
Mordanted
parameters
BPS and GCSE treated material BPS treated jute fabric
GCSE treated paper
Add on (%)
Jute/paper
Jute/paper
5
5.8
LOI
21/ 18
22/18
33
27
Occurring of flashing over the surface
Yes/Yes
Yes/ Yes
No
No
Burning with flame time ( s)
60/60
60/ 60
5
1-2
Burning with afterglow time ( s) extinguished
25/30 (after completely burnt with flame)
25/30 (after completely burnt with flame)
600
140
Char length (mm)
nil/ nil
nil
nil
nil
Completely Burnt with flame
Burnt initially with flame followed by afterglow
Burnt initially with flame followed by afterglow
State of the fabric Completely Burnt in contact of flame with flame
September - October 2019
195
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Vertical flammability
REVIEW The results from Table 1 indicate that BPS and GCSE both acts as fire retardant material for cellulosic products. LOI of the jute fabric has been improved after treatment with BPS. Further, burning rate of the treated jute fabric has been reduced. Like jute fabric, BPS treatment also very much beneficial on the cotton and the proteinous wool fabric. However, most of the cellulosic fabric treated with BPS, showed afterglow and smoke. This dangerous afterglow can be arrested by the addition of small amount of boric acid into the BPS formulation. On the contrary, GCSE also acts as fire retardant on the cellulosic paper material. Further research is going on the application of GCSE on the cotton and the jute fabric.
instead of the depolymerisation of cellulose. As a result, 1st derivative peaks of the treated fabric samples have been shifted towards the lower temperature. All the char morphologies of the treated cellulosic textile showed multicellular structure with closed cell pockets through which flow of the flammable gases has been restricted. Thermo-gravimetry of the GCSE treated paper samples also reduced the pyrolysis temperature from 350 to around 265-2800C and enhanced the dehydration of the underlying cellulosic substrate [11]. It means that the GCSE worked in condensed phase mechanism and as a result amount of char mass left at higher temperature is also very high compared to the control sample.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
As per reported data, high thermal stability of the BPS and GCSE based bio-molecule is attributed to the presence of various inorganic metals based on (Ca+, Mg+, K+, Si+, KCl-, Cl-) which is evident from the energy dispersive X-ray (EDX), Secondary ion mass spectroscopy (ToF-SIMS) and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis [12]. The secondary ion mass spectroscopy analysis of the BPS showed the presence of the major molecules at different mass units, such as H-, C-, CH, N-, O-, OH-, F-, Cl-, PO2-, PO3-, KCl-, Cl2- etc. It also showed the presence of various metal ions, such as Mg+, K+, Fe+ etc [12, 13]. 2.1. Thermogravimetry (TG) Fig 1 shows the TG curves of the control textile materials in N2 atmosphere at a heating rate of 100 C/min. The TG curves of the control cellulosic textile materials evidenced three stages of progression. In the initial stage at temperature below 3000C, the little mass loss occurred mainly due to removal of bound and unbound absorbed moisture from the cellulose polymer. Above the temperature of 3600C, both dehydration and char formation occurred. In dehydration, non oxidizable water and CO2 might have been released. Similar trend in mass loss, i.e., degradation were also observed in the only mordanted sample. It could be seen that control and the mordanted cellulosic samples lose approximately 98% of its mass below 5000C.However, the main thermal decomposition occurred in the temperature range of 300-3600C, where mass of the sample sharply decrease at around 3400C. This has happened mainly due to the pyrolysis of cellulose [8, 12, and 13]. On the contrary, BPS treated cellulosic material, depicted in Fig2, showed slower rate of pyrolysis and more amount of char mass formation at higher temperature. Indeed, different metallic oxides, salts, phenolic groups present in the BPS combinely help to catalyse dehydration 196
Fig 1: Thermal degradation of the cotton (A), Jute (B) and wool (C) textile [7, 10, 12]
Fig 2: Thermal degradation behaviour accompanied with 1st derivative in N2 atmosphere and the char morphology of the BPS treated wool (a); cotton [higher concentration (D), lower concentration (C)] (b) and control (A1), BPS treated (B1) jute fabric (c) [10,12].
3. Protein based bio-molecule: Conventional application and thermal behaviour 3.1. Chicken feather Chicken feather is composed of total 95 hydrophilic and hydrophobic amino acid, out of which hydrophilic September - October 2019
REVIEW
3.2. Whey protein and casein Both of these whey protein (20%) and casein (80%) are the major component of the milk protein, obtained during the production of skim milk. Casein is composed of essential, nonessential and few branched chain amino acids. As far as its composition is concerned, it is composed of bioactive peptides like alpha casein (highly phosphorylated compound containing 8-9 phosphate group), beta casein (composed of glutamines that contain amine group and single phosphorylation site near N side), C12 peptide and glycomacropeptide. On the contrary whey protein has more nutritional value, contains 8-9 branched chain amino acids (more than casein counterpart), beta lactoglobeulin, alpha lactalbumin, bovine serum albumin and immunoglobins Bosco et al 2012 has reported the application of whey protein powder (WP) containing 93.5% protein on the cotton fabric for improving thermal stability of the fabric [12, 15]. Concerning the basic component present in the WP bio molecule, it contains lipid, carbohydrate, ash, moisture and 93.5% protein.As per their report WP (folded protein) was collected from commercial chemical company and dissolved in distil water for 10 min. at room temperature. As a result folded WP protein suspended. On the contrary, separately alkali was September - October 2019
added into the folded WP solution to adjust its pH 7. Thereafter the solution was heated at 90°C for 2 min and cooled to room temperature. At high temperature WP was unfolded and denatured whey protein (DWP) was suspended. Like DNA treatment here also, cotton fabric was impregnated with the suspended protein for 1 min at 30C, 300 relative humidity (R.H) and excess liquor was squeezed by rotary drum followed by drying in the climatic chamber. As far as the flammability of the treated fabric is concerned, WP and DWP treatment reduced the burning rate of the fabric by 25. and 22.5% compared to the control cotton fabric in horizontal flammability test (methane flame 3s). 3.3. Hydrophobin Hydrophobins are the large family of small cystine rich protein of molecular mass around 10KDa, composed of 100 amino acids, present in the cell wall of the filamentous fungi [16]. Hydrophobin protein contains both hydrophobic and hydrophilic surfaces into stable monolayers. Actually this proteinous material coat the surface of the fungal spores, present in the cell wall of the fungi and provide water repellent nature and protect the spore itself. Based on hydropathy and biophysical properties, hydrophobin are of two categories. Class II hydrophibin contains water insoluble monolayer of amyloid fibrils because of their highly ordered structure whereas class ii hydrophobin contains water soluble protein aggregate. Hydrophobins are non-toxic and contributed to the surface phenomena of the fungal cell in the environment. In addition, it also helps to the maturation of the cell wall and spore dispersion into air [14]. As per report of the researchers, without diluted protein based hydrophobin solution was applied to the cotton fabric in a climatic chamber (30°C) with maintaining the material to liquor ratio of 1:26 and dipped into the solution for 1 min [16]. Thereafter extra solution was extracted by rotary drum from the fabric and followed by drying in constant weight. Here add-on% maintained on the treated fabric was 20%. As far as the flammability ( horizontal flammability with methane flame for 3s) of the treated fabric is concerned, hydrophobin treated cotton fabric showed burning rate of 1.1mm/s ( 1.5mm/s for control cotton fabric) and the amount of residue left after flammability test is 19% ( 55% lower) than the casein treated fabric. Char morphology of the hydrophobin treated cotton fabric showed intumescent mechanism of fire retardency as pearl like small bubbles are observed on the burned fibre surface, may be attributed with the disulphide bond cleavage and amide cross-linking (amide 1 and amide 2 was observed by ATR analysis of hydrophobin 197
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
amino acid, serine is mostly predominant. It helps to absorb moisture (absorb more moisture than proteinous wool fibre) from air. Actually chicken feather contains 91% keratin, 1.3% fat and 7.9% water. Keratin protein mostly remained in covalent bonding within its structure. Keratin protein is composed of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur and ash material [13]. As far as the physical property of the wastage chicken feather is concerned, it has low density, good resiliency, and sound absorbing capacity and also provide warmth. Connected with these properties, chicken feather conventionally has been used for technical textile and automotive application [14]. Wang et al 2014, synthesized one novel eco-friendly chicken feather protein based phosphorous nitrogen containing flame retardant (CFP) for imparting fire retardency to the cotton textile [16]. As per their report raw chicken feather was collected from the slaughter house and dissolved in sodium hydroxide (10gpl) and urea (4 gpl) at elevated temperature and the mixed formulation has been explored for making fire retardant textile by using borax and boric acid. It is reported that the mixed formulation has more thermal stability effect rather than the mixture of borax and boric acid when applied on the cotton fabric surface.
REVIEW treated fabric) as reported in the literature [17]. Cone calorimeter result showed that control cotton fabric released 240kW/m2 heat whereas casein and hydrophobin treated cotton fabric released 175 and 140kW/m2 heat respectively. In addition, peak heat release rate is 27 (casein) and 45% (hydrophobin) lower than the control cotton fabric. 3.4. Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) DNA normally looks like a double helix single chain polymer, consist long chain nitrogen containing polymers composed of adenine, guanine, cytosine and thymine. Deoxyribose units and phosphate groups are also present as backbone of the DNA bio-molecule and placed outside by keeping nitrogen containing bases at the inside of the DNA bio-molecule [18,19].
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
One famous fire research group in Italy has employed DNA extracted from herring sperm for imparting flame retardency to the cotton fabric. DNA powder slowly dissolved in the distilled water at pH 5.5 at 300C for 30 min. Cotton fabric was impregnated into the solution and squeezed by rotary drum. In addition, they have applied DNA in different concentration (5, 10 and 19%) to the cotton fabric. All the treated fabrics were characterized by LOI value, horizontal and vertical flammability. As per their report, LOI value of the DNA treated cotton fabrics are 23 (5% DNA), 25 (10% DNA) and 28 (19% DNA) respectively and in vertical flammability (by methane flame, 3s flame contact) test treated fabric showed lower burning rate (25%) and produced increasing amount of carbonaceous char mass (30%) after burning compared to the control cotton fabric. In addition after burning structural integrity (texture) of the cotton fibre was also maintained.
Fig3. TG curves of the protein bio-molecule starting from casein (A), phosphorous nitrogen based chicken feather (B), DNA (C) and whey protein and denatured whey protein (D) bio-molecule [11, 12-17]. 198
It was observed from the Fig 3 that all the protein biomolecules showed low rate of weight degradation with temperature and also at high temperature more amount of carbonaceous char mass remained. Thermogravimetry of only Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) molecule ( composed of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, phosphorous) extracted from herring sperm showed three stages of weight loss [180 (9%), 230 (15%) and 270°C (25%)] with 40 and 23% char mass remained at higher temperature of 400 and 500°C respectively. Here main weight loss occurred may be attributed with the cleavage of the phospho-diester bonds between two adjacent neucleosides or may be due to the breakage of phosphate group in the DNA ring. As a result deoxyribose units of DNA may dehydrate at low temperature and more intumescent char mass formation occurred. However some researchers also showed, that the DNA molecule is more stable at higher temperature as 50% char mass remained at 5000C in both the N2 and air atmosphere. In contrast to it, regenerated protein based bio-molecule casein (composed of protein and phosphate groups) showed four stages of mass degradation, with lower rate of weight loss and 40% char mass remained at 5000C. Both DNA and casein molecule contains nitrogen, oxygen and phosphorous, (phosphoric acid catalyse dehydration and ammonia release dilutes oxygen at high temperature) responsible for thermal stability. However in casein due to the absence of carbon element amount of char mass remained at high temperature is less compared to the DNA molecule. In addition char mass of DNA is more coherent and strong compared to the char mass of casein. As far as the thermal stability of the whey protein and the denatured (unfolded protein) whey protein is considered, it showed three stages of weight loss and comparatively faster weight loss rate compared to the other protein based bio-molecule discussed here and also at higher temperature of 4000C, less than 10% mass remained. It may be attributed to the absence of phosphorus based compound (it present in casein and DNA molecule) and less quantity of nitrogen molecule present in the whey protein. As a result of less intensive dehydration amount of carbonaceous char mass remained at higher temperature is less compared to the DNA and casein bio-molecule [12]. As far as the thermo-gravimetry of phosphorous nitrogen based chicken feather extracted protein is concerned, mass degradation starts earlier due to dehydration of phosphorous and nitrogen based bio-polymer and at high temperature of 5000C, 67% char mass remained. Same literature also reported that this melamine pyrophosphate (MPP) based chicken feather protein exhibSeptember - October 2019
its major weight loss at higher temperature 987°C, may be due to the char deformation and even at 1500°C, 33% char mass remained. It proved the excellent thermal stability of MPP based chicken feather protein.
9.
4. Conclusion and major challenges for commercialisation The concept of using bio-products for getting fire retardency of the textile materials is novel and relatively a new thought. However, most of the finishes are not durable to home laundering. Further, some finishes produced lot of smoke due to afterglow after extinguishment of flame. It is also not favourable due to the presence of lot of carbon monoxide into it. Some of the bio-products like DNA is very much costly and very much difficult to get in larger quantity for commercial use. In addition proper mechanism, behind the fire retardency imparted by the plant bio-products is still a major challenge for the researchers.
10.
References 1. Horrocks, A.R. 2011. "Flame retardant challenges for textiles and fibres". Polymer Degradation and Stability 96: 377-390. 2. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Chattopadhyay, S.K., Das, S., Narkar, R. 2014. "Flame retardant and antimicrobial jute textile using sodium metasilicate nonahydrate". Polish Journal of Chemical Technology 16(2): 106-113. 3. Das S, Bhowmick M, Chattopadhyay S.K., Basak S. 2015, "Application of biomimicry in textiles". Current Science 109 (5): 893-898. 4. Basak S., Samanta K.K. &Chattopadhyay S.K (2014). Fire retardant cotton fabric treated with herbal extract, Journal of Textile Institute, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2014.995456. 5. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Chattopadhyay, S.K. and Narkar, R. 2015. "Banana pseudostem sap: wastage byproduct for making fire retardant cellulosic paper". Cellulose 22: 2767-2776. 6. Basak S., Ali S.W. 2016. "Sustainable fire retardency of textiles using biomacromolecules". Polymer Degradation and Stability DOI: 10.1016/ j.polymdegradstab.2016.07.019. 7. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Chattopadhyay, S.K. and Narkar, R. 2015. "Self extinguishable ligno-cellulosic fabric made by banana pseudostem sap". Current Science 108 (3): 372-383. 8. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Saxena, S., Chattopadhyay, S.K., Narkar, R. and Mahangade, R.2015. "Fire retardant cellulosic substrate using bannana pseudostem sap". International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 27(2): 247-261. September - October 2019
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Basak, S., Saxena, S., Chattopadhyay, S.K. and Narkar, R. and Mahangade, R. 2015d. "Banana pseudostem sap: a waste plant resource for making thermally stable cellulosic substrate". Journal of Industrial Textiles DOI: 10.1177/1528083715591580. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Chattopadhyay, S.K., Pandit, P., Maity, S. 2016b. "Green fire retardant finishing and combine dyeing of proteinous wool fabric". Colouration Technology 132: 135-143. Basak, S., Patil, P.G., Shaikh, A.J. and Samanta, K.K. 2016a. "Green coconut shell extract and boric acid: new formulation for making thermally stable cellulosic polymer"r. Journal of Chemical Technology and Biotechnology. DOI: 10.1002/jctb4903 Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Saxena, S., Chattopadhyay, S.K., Narkar, R. and Mahangade R 2015a. "Fire retardant cellulosic textile using bannana pseudostem sap". Polish Journal of Chemical Technology 17(1): 123-133. Basak, S., Samanta, K.K., Chattopadhyay, S.K., Das, S., Bhowmik, M. and Narkar, R. 2014b. "Fire retardant and mosquito repellent jute fabric treated with thio-urea". Journal of Textile Association. 74 (5): 273-282. Alongi J, Carletto RA, Bosco F, Carosio F, Blasio AD, Cuttica F, Antonucci V, Giordano M &Malucelli G. Caseins and hydrophobins as novel green flame retardant for cotton fabrics. Polym. Degrad. Stabil. 2013; 99: 111-117. Bosco F, Carletto R.A, Alongi J, Marmo L, Blassio AD & Malucelli G. Thermal stability and flame resistance of cotton fabrics treated with whey protein, Carbohydr. Polym. 2013; 94: 372-377. Alongi J, Colleoni C, Rosace G, Malucelli G, Thermal and fire stability of the cotton fabrics coated with hybrid phosphorous doped silica films, J. Therm. Anal. Calorim, 2012, 110, 1207-1216. Horrocks AR. Flame retardant challenges for textiles and fibres, Polym. Degrad. Stabil. 2011; 96: 377-390. Alongi J, Blasio AD, Cuttica F, Carosio F, &Malucelli G. Bulk or surface treatments of ethylene vinyl acetate copolymers with DNA: Investigation on the flame retardant properties. European Polym. J. 2014; 51: 112-119. Alongi J, Cuttica F, Blasio A.D, Carosio F, Malucelli G. Intumescent features of neuclic acids and proteins, Thermochim. Acta. 2014; 591 : 31-39
❑❑❑
199
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
REVIEW
TEXPERIENCE
Commerce and chemistry : procurement / replacement of textile auxiliaries (Part 1)
Dr. Kedar Kulkarni Kedar Kulkarni is currently working as Adjunct faculty in department of Fibres and Textile Processing, Institute of Chemical Technology. He has work experience of more than 15 years in various fields of textile wet processing industry, including sales, technical service, Quality assurance in textile auxiliaries, testing and production of pigment dispersions for textile printing, plastics and paints industry; trouble shooting and commissioning of wet processing machineries such as E-Control, MXL, stenters, sanforisation range, package dyeing machines etc. He has represented Institute of Chemical Technology in Ethiopia as a team leader in a project in which more than 25 industries were supported for technical as well as technological service to improve their export performance.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Emil : kd.kulkarni@ictmumbai.ed.in
200
Textile auxiliary is defined as a group of formulated chemicals used to carry out various functions of textile wet processing more efficiently and are essential if a desired effect is to be obtained consistently. Auxiliaries are used to increase processability and aesthetic properties of textile products. This ability of textile auxiliaries to improve functionality and utilisation of finished products resulted in increased consumption of auxiliaries. The global market for textile auxiliaries is estimated to be around $ 27,560 Mn by 2022. This includes coating and sizing chemicals, pre-treatment, coloration and finishing chemicals. The application areas include home furnishings, apparels, and industrial chemicals. The market is dominated by small and medium range manufacturers which constitute approximately 80% of the market share while 20% market share is dominated by corporate players. Textile auxiliaries are the first area which customer thinks when it comes to saving in cost of production. There are three prominent areas where very high volumes of textile auxiliaries are used. Those are, pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing. Auxiliaries majorly used in pre-treatment are, wetting agent, sequestering agent, hydrogen peroxide stabiliser, washing off agent. Apart from this, amylase and catalase enzymes are being used in pre-treatment, the volume of which is increasing. Any unevenness in pre-treatment gets highlighted post dyeing. Usually, most common method of reducing cost is to replace existing textile auxiliaries by economical substitutes. While shifting from one auxiliary to another, many times, thorough investigation is not done and only some basic properties are checked. Wetting agents For a wetting agent, sinking time is checked and if it is found within acceptable range, the product is replaced, provided the price is less. However, apart from price and wetting, there are lot of other properties which contribute to the final performance of pre-treatment. These must be tested and ensured. Only wetting property of a wetting agent will give partial picture about the product. The desired properties will also depend on type of process used. For batch or semi-continuous pre-treatment, wetting agent with little lower wetting time may be accepted as the treatment time can be manipulated to get desired results. For continuous process, wetting efficiency becomes extremely important as the time of contact between fabric and liquor is very less. In batch process, a little foam can be tolerated if process is carried out in jigger, however, foam becomes serious problem if process is carried out in machine with high turbulence such as jet or soft flow. Thus, to test wetting agent, it is extremely important to test its ionic nature, cloud point for non-ionic wetting agent, foaming characteristic, stability to alkali and hard water etc. One more important property of wetting agent is active content in case of anionic product. Usual industrial practice is to test solid content. This gives entire non-volatile matter in the product. However, active content of wetting agent will decide its efficiency. Solid content can be adjusted keeping active content constant. Thus, to know exact efficiency of a wetting agent, its active content should be tested. Non-ionicsurfactants are characterised by its cloud point. It is the temperature at which1.0% solution of non-ionic surfactants become cloudy or insoluble. The larger the number of ethylene oxide molecules in the product, higher is the cloud point. The exception to this rule is a non-ionic that is coSeptember - October 2019
reacted or capped, with propyleneoxide. Cloud point determination gives idea about stability of non-ionic wetting agents to temperature. Sequestering agents The principle behind sequestration is the formation of a water-soluble complex between a sequestering agent and polyvalent metal ion. Sequestering agents are used in industry to avoid ill efects of heavy metals, especially calcium, magnesium and iron. Usually, heavy metals can enter process bath from various sources such as fabric, water, steam, dye etc. These heavy metals have detrimental effect on fabric as well as machine. The deposits on fabric affects the handle while on machine it will form hard mass which many times result in abrasion marks on fabric and affects the performance of machine. The deposits on machine are very difficult to clean as these gets deposited on areas which are extremely difficult to clean. Common sequestering agents used in textile wet processing are based on different chemicals such as polyphosphates, organophosphonic acids, aminocarboxylic acids, hydroxycarboxylic acids etc. Polyphosphates are derivatives of phosphoric acid. They sequester metal ions and contribute to detergency by suspending and dispersing soils. They will break down to sodium phosphate in water over time losing their ability to chelate, especially in hot water. They are foods for algae causing rapid growth in streams and ponds. Algae growth depletes stream's oxygen supply causing severe problem to aquatic life. Organophosphoric acid based sequestering agents are more stable in hot water and exhibit threshold effect. These are more expensive than inorganic polyphosphates. However, they form very stable complexes with most of the metal ions. They do not contribute to detergency. Hydroxycarboxylic acids are more effective for chelation of iron than calcium and magnesium. Polyacrylates are also used as sequestering agents. They give additional dispersing action, which makes them more suitable sequestering agents in dye bath. Quality of incoming water and other raw materials play very important role in selecting sequestering agent. Many times, during monsoon season, more iron gets in the bath from rusted pipelines, which hamper the quality of wet process. This gives rise to pin hole marks. While selecting a sequestering agent, one must ensure what is the process in which it is to be used. Chelation value can be estimated by titration method for calcium, magnesium and iron. Hydrogen peroxide stabilisers Bleaching is one of the most important function in pretreatment of textiles. Main aim of bleaching is to decolourise natural colouring matter present in fibres and to produce even whiteness which gives uniform wet processing. Uneven bleaching will result in uneven dyeing. September - October 2019
To ensure even bleaching, decomposition of hydrogen peroxide should be uniform throughout the bleaching process. Pure hydrogen peroxide is quite stable in acidic pH and when stored away from sunlight. In alkaline condition it is less stable and even traces of alkalies decompose aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide. It also gets decomposed in presence of heavy metals such as iron, copper, nickel etc. In practical bleaching process, alkaline pH is adjusted by using sodium hydroxide and temperature is raised to boil. When these process parameters are attained, hydrogen peroxide liberates perhydroxyl ion in aqueous medium and chemically behaves like a weak dibasic acid. The perohydroxyl ion, which is highly unstable, in turn releases nascent oxygen. As nascent oxygen is instrumental in bleaching process, hydrogen peroxide is known as oxidative bleaching agent. At higher pH, liberation of perohydroxyl ion is extremely rapid liberating oxygen gas which is not having any contribution toward bleaching. This higher rate of decomposition which produces high amount of unutilised perhydroxyl ion results in damage to fibre. Practically, pH between 10.5 to 10.8 is optimised where rate of evolution and consumption of perhydroxyl ions is equal. If the pH is higher, hydrogen peroxide becomes unstable and this requires use of hydrogen peroxide stabilisers. The process of regulation or control of perhydroxyl ions to prevent rapid decomposition of bleach and minimise fibre degradation is known as stabilisation. Commercially available hydrogen peroxide stabilisers are blends of selected materials serving number of functions. These could include any of the following: Alkali - e.g. caustic soda/soda ash/ sodium silicate Dispersants - e.g. acrylates/phosphonates Sequestrants - e.g. EDTA/DTPA/gluconates etc. Inorganics - e.g. magnesium salts Colloidal stabilisers - e.g. acrylic polymers To test hydrogen peroxide stabiliser, titrimetric methods are used. Speed of decomposition of hydrogen peroxide in presence and absence of stabiliser during bleaching of cotton is estimated. The method can be used to test efficiency of individual stabiliser or it can compare two stabilisers used in same concentrations under identical conditions. The test method involves actual application testing as bleaching of cotton fabric is carried out and samples are withdrawn from the bleaching bath at definite intervals and those are titrated against known concentration of potassium permanganate solution. Alternatively, iodometric titration using starch indicator is also practiced. (Next issue will cover auxiliaries for colouration)
201
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
TEXPERIENCE
TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. The previous chapter was based upon various potential applications of graphene quantum dots (GQDs). These flat 0D nanomaterials have attracted increasing interest because of their exceptional physico-chemical properties and novel applications in energy conversion and storage, electro/photo/chemical catalysis, flexible devices, sensing, display, bioimaging. The significant advances in the recent years were summarized with comparative and balanced discussion. The present chapter puts some insights upon graphene based membrane and its various potential applications. In this chapter, the preparation methods of graphene oxide membrane are reviewed, including vacuum suction filtration, spray coating, spin coating, dip coating and the layer by layer method. The development and application of graphene based membrane in water treatment are briefly discussed.
Chapter 16 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : Membrane Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Graphene is a carbon material, a two-dimensional honeycomb lattice structure, with a single layer of atomic thickness. In 1940, graphene was considered as a constituent element of graphite. In 1962, Boehm et al. separated the carbon flakes by heating and chemically reducing the oxidized graphite (GO). In the year 2004, Geim followed the scotch tape method that repeatedly peeled off high directional pyrolytic graphite, obtaining monolayer graphene. The special structure of graphene has excellent mechanical properties, high electrical properties, excellent thermodynamic properties and large specific surface area. Such revolutionary discovery has rapidly attracted all scholars from physical, chemical, and biological fields. There is a strong Van der Waals force prevailing between the graphene sheets due to which direct application of graphene materials is not so easy. Graphene oxide is the most common derivative of graphene. The surface of this oxide form can be obtained by the chemical oxidation-stripping method and contains large number of polar oxygen-containing functional groups, including the in-plane distributed hydroxyl groups, the epoxy groups and the carboxyl groups at the edges. Due to the presence of these oxygen-containing functional groups, graphene oxide has good hydrophilicity. When it is dispersed in water, the carboxyl group is hydrolyzed to negatively charged acid and hydrogen 202
ions to form stable oxidized graphene oxide dispersion. Researchers have explored the new properties of graphene through functionalization of graphene oxide. The modified graphene can not only prevent the agglomeration of the lamellae in the solution, but can also be prepared by vacuum suction filtration, spray coating, spin coating, dip coating and the layer by layer method. This chapter encompasses such preparation methods of graphene oxide membrane along with its application in water treatment and its future prospects.
Figure 1: Graphene as a membrane
Preparation of Membrane Vacuum Filtration Method Vacuum filtration is the most widely used method for the preparation of graphene oxide membrane. The graphene solution is adjusted to a suitable concentration before the fumed graphene dispersion is filtered, and then the graphene oxide is deposited onto a membrane (microporous membrane / alumina film) for September - October 2019
TEXNOTE vacuum filtration. During the filtration process, the graphene oxide will cover the entire membrane evenly due to the flowability of water. The obtained graphene oxide membrane has a uniform dispersibility, and the control of the dispersion concentration can alter the thickness of the graphene membrane. Huang et al. used filtration method of preparing graphene oxide based membrane by controlling the pressure, salt concentration and pH that can be used to regulate the size of graphene oxide channel. The surface of the graphene oxide membrane prepared by the vacuum filtration method is relatively flat. Due to the limitation of the equipment, the size of the graphene membrane prepared by the vacuum suction method is small and is difficult to realize the large area preparation. At the same time, the thickness of the graphene oxide membrane is less than 100 nm, and is difficult to use it without the support material.
Dip coating method is performed by impregnating the substrate in a solution of graphene oxide. It can control the thickness of the film by controlling the temperature, concentration and pulling speed of the solution, and can use mechanical batch processing. Vollmer et al. used a dip coating method to treat a quartz substrate to prepare a graphene oxide film.
Spray Coating Method Spray coating is performed wing a spray coating equipment in order to spray the solution into the substrate evenly, and then the solvent is evaporated to get the desired membrane. The role of the gun is making liquid atomization forming the small droplets. The substrate will generally be pre-heated to accelerate the role of volatile solvents. The advantage of this method is high production efficiency and large preparation area. The process is simple, low cost and substrate independent. However, the uniformity the prepared membrane is relatively poor. Pham et al. prepared a chemically modified graphene membrane by this method.
Research Progress Graphene Oxide Membrane There is a strong hydrogen bond in the graphene layer, and the dried graphene film can be stably present in the aqueous solution. Therefore, the graphene film is considered to be a novel type of carbon-based film that has been widely used in water purification, ion screening and other fields.
Dip Coating Method September - October 2019
Tanugi et al. used molecular simulation results to show that the appropriate pore size of the oxidized graphene tablets can allow water molecules to pass with an effective retention of Na+ and Cl- ions. Due to the strong hydrophilicity of graphene oxide, the graphene film is used for desalination, and the water flux can be increased by several orders of magnitude compared with conventional reverse osmosis membranes. Nair et al. demonstrated that there is a low resistance flow of the monolayer of water molecules between the graphene sheets. These works opened the door of effective separation of salt ions through the graphene oxide membrane. Modified Graphene Oxide Membrane Modified graphene oxide membrane can effectively change the surface properties of graphene oxide by introducing functional groups and changing the distance between graphene sheets. The modified graphene film is used in the fields of water purification, pervaporation and desalination. Lou et al. used dip coating method with ceramic as the support base film, the preparation of silane modified graphene film. Silane modification improves the adhesion between the graphene and the 203
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Spin Coating Method The spin coating method is to apply the graphene solution to the substrate, rotate the substrate and adjust the rotation speed of the substrate. In this way, the solution is uniformly dispersed on the surface of the substrate, and the substrate is dried to obtain an oxidized graphite film. During the filming process, the concentration of graphene solution and the speed can be controlled to adjust the film thickness. Hector et al. prepared an oxidized graphite film by spin coating. The substrate was first rotated at a speed of 600 rpm to allow the solution to be sufficiently dispersed on the substrate and then the speed was raised to 800 rpm. The film thickness was reduced and the rotational speed was increased to l600 rpm in order to obtain the desired film.
Layer by Layer Method (LBL) LBL is a method where the multilayer film of polyelectrolyte is prepared by alternately depositing the charged substrate in the opposite charge. The surface of the graphene oxide has a large amount of oxygen-containing groups, which can be used to covalently modify the surface of the graphene oxide with the negatively charged oxygen-containing group or the polymer. Mi et al. used tri-mesic acid chloride as a cross-linking agent to prepare a new separation membrane.
TEXNOTE ceramic base film, and the hydrophilicity of the membrane is improved. Gao et al. prepared an ultra-thin modified graphene oxide membrane by filtration. Hybrid Graphene Oxide Membrane Hybrid graphene oxide membrane not only has the benefits of organic film and nanoparticles, to make up for their own defects to meet specific needs. In this hybrid film, graphene oxide acts as good filler which can improve the permeability of the membrane in the organic separation process, pervaporation and other fields. Huang et al. have prepared a graphene/polyvinyl alcohol hybrid film, which has a good interception effect due to the hydrogen bonding between grained graphene nanoparticles and polyvinyl alcohol. Compared with the PVA film, the permeability coefficient of water is decreased by 68%, and the experimental results provided an effective idea for the preparation of polymer nanocomposite films with high retention performance. Wang et al. investigated the separation performance of the graphene/polyvinyl alcohol nanocomposite film on the toluene/n-heptane mixture. The hybrid membrane improved the affinity of the aromatic compound and changed the permeability of the toluene/nheptane mixture. Summary Graphene Oxide Membrane, the modified graphene oxide membrane and the oxidized graphene hybrid membrane have the advantages of simple preparation process and good separation performance. It has a great potential in the field of water treatment. The ion transport principle in graphene membrane is not far
clear, and yet requires a deep understanding of the mechanism when being applied to desalination, sodium filtration, pervaporation and other fields. At the same time, for the development of novel graphene based membrane, how to improve the strength of the separation membrane and its practical application are the areas that need to be explored. Bibliography 1. Wu H. H., Li P. and Wang S. G., Water Treatment Technology, 26, 53-55, (2000). 2. Pan Z. Q. Industrial Water Treatment, 11, 2426, (1991). 3. Chen Z. Q. Journal of Harbin University of Civil Engineering, 32, 16-18, (1999). 4. Li T. T., Wang X. J. and Liu T. S. Journal of Harbin University of Commerce, 25, 419-423, (2009). 5. Wang M. and Lei Y. Chemical Environmental Protection, 7, 237-239, (2004). 6. Liu X. L., Ren N. Q. and Zhang Y. Journal of Harbin Institute of Technology, 6, 881-883, (2006). 7. Rauch W. Water Research, 40, 3149, (2006). 8. Livingston A. G., Santos L. M. F. D, Pavasant P., Pistikopoulos E. N. and Strachan L. F. Water Science & Technology, 33, 1-8, (1996). 9. Scott J. A. and Smith K. L. Water Research, 31, 69-74, (1997). 10. Wang Y. Guangdong Chemical Engineering, 4, 138-140, (2009). ❑❑❑
THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Central Office Journal of the TEXTILE Association
We have temporarily shifted to 69, Vishnu Prasad Building, Room No.1, 1st Floor, Opp. Ovenfresh, Ranade Road, Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 204
September - October 2019
UNIT ACTIVITY
The Textile Association (India) TAI - South India Unit The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit organized various activities. Quarterly Seminar:
The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit organized Quarterly Seminar on 10th August, 2019 at Hotel Gokulam, Coimbatore with the topic of Seminar "The Redefined Wire Clothing"presented by M/s Geron and Fibre Plus Tex Products. Shri Ramalingam, delivered the welcome address. Shri IakokaSubramaniam, Sakotharan Tapes, presided the meeting and delivered the special address. Technical presentation were delivered by Mr. AshutoshGilra, Chief Representative India, Geron Card Clothing and Shri G. Muralikrishnana, Fibre Plus Tex Products. More than 350 delegates attended the Seminar and was a good interaction between the speakers and the participants, Shri Shivramakrishnan, Joint Secretary proposed the vote of thanks with a brief summing up.
The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit organized Quarterly Seminar on 18th may, 2019 at COINDIA Hall, Coimbatore with the topic of Seminar "Ingineered Solutions for Quantum Leap in Quality & Productivity"presented by M/s Premier Evolvics, Coimbatore. Mr. K. Gandhiraj, Hon. Secretary delivered welcome address. Technical presentation were delivered by Mr. V. Srinivasan, CEO, Premier Evolvics and Mr. Guruprasad, Senior Textile Technologists, Premier Evolviucs. More than 300 delegates attended the Seminar and was a good interaction between the speakers and the participants, Shri Shivramakrishnan, Joint Secretary proposed the vote of thanks with a brief summing up.
During the AGM Meeting, following Office Bearers and Managing Committee Members were elected for the term 2019-2021. Mr. D. Krishnamurthy : President Mr. T. L. Viswanathan : Vice President Mr. E. Sathyanarayana : Vice President Mr. K. Gandhiraj : Hon. Secretary Mr. E. Mounagurusamy : Hon. Trasurer Mr. A. Sivaramakrishnan : Hon. Jt. Secretary Mr. R. Subramanian : Member Mr. R. Seenivasan : Member Mr. P. Jayakumar : Member Mr. S. Sivakumar : Member Mr. A. Kanthimathinathan : Member Also elected Governing Council Members as under: Mr. K. Gandhiraj : G. C. Member Mr. E. Mounagurusamy : G. C. Member Mr. S. Sivakumar : G. C. Member After the Annual General Body Meeting, Technical symposium was held on the theme "Opportunities for Spinners in Ting Spinning: More than 150 delegates attended the programme. There was a good interaction with the speaker. At the end Mr. E. Mounagurusamy proposed the vote of thanks.
Shri IakokaSubramaniam delivering special address September - October 2019
205
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Mr. S. Gandhiraj delivering welcome address
AGM & TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM: The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit held their 69th Annual General Body Meeting and along with it organized Technical Symposium on 28th September, 2019 at COINDIA Hall, Coimbatore.
UNIT ACTIVITY
TAI - Ahmedabad Unit Mr . Hasmukh S. Patel unanimously re-elected as President The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit has elected the new Office Bearers for the term 20192023. Shri Hasmukh S. Patel has been unanimously reelected as President of TAI Ahmedabad Unit. Following are the Office Bearers:
Shri Hasmukh S. Patel President
Prof. Ashwin Thakkar Vice President
Shri Bhogilal S. Patel Jt. Hon. Secretary
Shri Hitesh V. Trivedi Jt. Hon. Secretary
Also Following Governing Council Members elected:
Shri Harish C. Shah
Prof. Ashwin Thakkar
Shri T. L. Patel
Shri K. J. Patel
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Shri Ashokkumar D. Patel Shri Jayantibhai H. Patel Chairman Vice Chairman
Shri Mahendrabhai G. Patel Shri Damodarbhai I. Patel
Shri Harish C. Shah Hon. Secretary
Shri Rajeshkumar J. Shah Hon. Treasurer
Shri M. G. Shah
206
Shri Hirabhai J. Patel
September - October 2019
NEWS
A.T.E. Contributed Sustainable Development The average global temperature is on the rise, and according to a report published by a climate watch magazine, Climate.gov, the 10 warmest years on record have all occurred since 1998; 9 of the 10 have occurred since 2005. The report further states that by 2020, the global surface temperature will be more than 0.5°C warmer than the 1986-2005 average.
viding a cool and healthy ambience for the people inside the conditioned space.
Countries like India with tropical climates would be hit hard by the increasing temperature. This would lead to an increasing demand for cooling systems. However, conventional cooling systems, mainly the air conditioners, are energy guzzlers and also use the refrigerants that are harmful to the environment. How do we resolve this conundrum?
HMX-Ambiator
A.T.E. is a leader in textile engineering with 80 years of experience and its foray into a totally unrelated territory had surprised many, but A.T.E.'s passion and commitment to environment transcends business and profit to societal wellbeing. A.T.E.'s cooling business is handled by its business unit HMX which has already supplied more than 60 million CFM in India and other markets, cooling an area ofmore than 12 million sq. ft., encompassing both the industrial and commercial segments and for varying applications. Out of the 60 million CFM, close to 15% of the CFM is supplied to commercial segment. With upto 50% power saving compared to air conditioning, this technology offers huge potential to save energy while proSeptember - October 2019
IDECool
It is with the same passion and commitment that A.T.E. also invested in the wastewater business in the year 2008. India, which is home to nearly 18% of the world's population has only about 4% of the world's water resources. The NITI Aayog's Composite Water Man207
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
A.T.E. had the foresight to envisage the urgent need for an alternate eco-friendly technology that would provide cooling and comfort. So, it invested in a nascent technology, about 12 years ago, that has today revolutionised the concept of cooling. The technology, known as IDEC or Indirect Direct Evaporative Cooling, has the well-proven and unique DAMA (dry air moist air) as its core, and is based on the principles of evaporative cooling. The DAMA is patented in India, Australia, and the United States. This technology provides comfort cooling using just about 50% energy of conventional air conditioners, and replaces the ozone depleting refrigerants used for cooling with nature's own coolant, i.e., water. In addition, it provides 100% fresh air, thus creating a healthy and more productive environment.
NEWS agement Index June 2018 presents a grim water situation in India. As per the report, currently, 600 million Indians face high to extreme water stress and about two hundred thousand people die every year due to diseases that are linked to inadequate access to safe water. The report goes on to say that the crisis is only going to get worse, and by 2030 the country's water demand is projected to be twice the available supply, implying severe water scarcity for hundreds of millions of people and an eventual ~6% loss in the country's GDP.
difficult to treat effluents from pharma and petrochem, whereas SUFRO®, an ultra-high flow submerged UF membranes followed by a reverse osmosis membrane system, provide simple and hassle free recycling of wastewater. AHET in collaboration with HUBER SE, Germany, also offers innovative and highly efficient equipment for municipal wastewater treatment right from headworks to comprehensive sludge management including faecal sludge treatment.Thus, the endeavour at AHET is to make wastewater the most reliable source of fresh water for industry and mankind.
AHET
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Contributing significantly to India's water scarcity is the increasing generation of wastewater and its unsafe disposal. Two main sources of wastewater are sewage and industrial waste. It is estimated that around 62,000 million litres of sewage is generated in India every day (source: MakanIQ, July 2017), while 13,468 million litres per day of wastewater is generated by industries in India (FICCI April 2013). A report published by Down to Earth in April 2016 shows that 78% of the sewage generated in India is untreated; similar statistics for industrial wastewater are not readily available. So, why not look at the wastewater as the most secure source of fresh water? With this idea, A.T.E. invested in the business of treatment and recycling of wastewater and was recently joined by HUBER SE, Germany, the world leader in the field, to form A.T.E. HUBER Envirotech Private Limited (AHET). AHET offers a comprehensive range of solutions for wastewater treatment, recycling, zero liquid discharge and sludge management covering both industrial and municipal sectors. AHET has introduced several novel technologies for industrial wastewater treatment. AAA® technology is a highly successful innovation that treats textile wastewater. AVR® based anaerobic bio-methanation plants have been proven to degrade fat successfully in the dairy industry. AHR handles 208
Solar
Another area that A.T.E. invested in that underscores its commitment to the environment is for the development of solar heating solutions. This business is handled by its business unit HMX. With years of R&D and long term in-field testing, A.T.E. has developed an innovative Concentrated Solar Thermal (CST) system that can provide steam (up to 160ºC and 6 bar pressure) and process heat for various industrial and commercial applications. A.T.E. is also active in the space of Industrial IoT, through its business unit, EcoAxis, which helps businesses improve their bottom lines by unlocking intelligence of things using IoT based advanced analytics. Key environmental benefits of EcoAxis' IoT solutions are material and energy resource optimisation. A.T.E.'s concern and contributions to the environment also encompasses its own operations, under the theme Aiding The Environment. Two of its newly built facilities are certified green buildings, A.T.E. has installed rooftop solar panels in some of its facilities, and also drives green practices like waste segregation, conservation of power, water, and paper with total employee involvement. September - October 2019
NEWS
A.T.E. ties up with CMC to bring innovative carpet manufacturing technology to India Expanding its portfolio of carpet machinery, A.T.E. has now partnered with Card-Monroe Corp., (CMC), USA, for sales and marketing of tufting machines in India. CMC is located in Chattanooga, Tennessee (USA), and has been manufacturing and supplying tufting machines to the global carpet industry for over 35 years, expanding their installed base to 37 countries. CMC manufactures state-of-the-art tufting machines of all types, allowing their customers to choose a machine that meets their exact needs. CMC's R&D department is focused on constantly improving their machines' carpet designing capabilities, quality, run-ability, and productivity. A team of qualified service engineers are available worldwide for set-ups and services of new and existing tufting machines. A full-fledged training centre allows customers to learn
about the optimal operation and maintenance of CMC tufting machines. A.T.E. has over 80 years of experience in the Indian textile industry and is a domain expert in the manufacturing of a wide range of textiles, providing end-to-end solutions. A.T.E. is uniquely positioned to support and supply all the equipment needed for carpet manufacturing; right from BCF yarn production line from Truetzschler, carpet yarn heat setting line from Power Heat Set, digital printing from Zimmer, carpet back coating from Yamuna, carpet shearing from Xetma Vollenweider, carpet confection lines from Matthys Group, and robotic tufting from EFAB. With this partnership, A.T.E. brings yet another innovative technology to the Indian carpet manufacturing industry, which will help carpet manufacturers' gain a competitive edge.
A.T.E. ties up with Matchpoint, Germany
MatchpointTextilmaschinenbau Deutschland GmbH, Germany, is the leading developer and manufacturer of diamond tools for dry finishing of textile fabrics. These tools can be used for the surface finishing of all kind of fabrics. Specialised in diamond finishing technologies, Matchpoint has been serving the needs of textile finishing companies since 1984. Their product - diamondpeachÂŽ plus - has been developed specifically for the surface treatment of textile fabrics in order to create sanding/peaching effects. Matchpointdiamond emery papercan be used with different types of peaching machines. Existing sanding machines at mills can be easily upgraded with
Matchpoint's rollers to achieve micro-sanding effects. These upgrades also increase the machine productivity by 30% and more. For sustainable denim processing Matchpoint has developed DDF - diamond denim finishingÂŽ. DDF isa chemical-free pre-finish process for flat denim fabrics which supports colour-fading and stable soft-touch. The denim fashion industry is very interested in sustainable finishing methods, and Matchpoint'sDDF as the most environment friendly solution is attracting a high degree of interest. A.T.E. is committed to provide up-to-date sustainable technology solutions to textile mills. A.T.E.'s partnership with Matchpoint is yet another step in this direction.
Birla Cellulose Manufactures Viscose Fibre using pre-consumer cotton waste Breakthrough innovation: Step towards new raw material fibre input Birla Cellulose, one of the global leaders in Man Made Cellulose Fibre (MMCF), has achieved a breakthrough in manufacturing viscose fibre using pre-consumer September - October 2019
cotton fabric waste. This new line of viscose, is already being adopted and is available for sale to interested brands and retailers. This innovation has the distinction of Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) and portrays Birla Cellulose's commitment to a more circular economy. 209
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
A.T.E. to offer diamond finishing technology solutions for fabric finishing from Matchpoint, Germany
NEWS This innovation has been done through in-house R&D and uses a minimum of 20% pre-consumer industrial fabric waste. Fabrics from the fibre offer excellent attributes similar to virgin fibre. The business will work on further developing products made with more than 50% industrial fabric waste as well as post-consumer clothing as inputs in 2020. "Launching of recycled viscose fibre is part of our commitment for circularity and sustainable practices. We are also working on developing fibres using postconsumer clothing as inputs, in collaboration with Technology providers and brands" said Mr Dilip Gaur, Business Director, Pulp and Fibre Business Aditya Birla Group. The fashion industry which is at the cusp of transformation towards a circular economy has much appreciated this innovation. It adds to Birla Cellulose's stature as a leader in achieving "low risk" in its 2017 Canopystyle audits and a green shirt ranking in the Hot
Button Report, both of which indicate that Birla is not sourcing from key priority areas of Ancient and Endangered forests. "We are thrilled that Birla Cellulose is launching a commercial-scale product made of recycled material and their drive towards developing solutions for 50%+ recycled content by 2020. This is fantastic news for the world's forests and climate - and welcomed news for our 200 fashion brand partners that are looking for fabrics that meet Canopy's vision of safeguarding Ancient and Endangered Forests." Said Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director, Canopy. Birla Cellulose has been in active collaboration with Brands, technology providers and textile chain actors to integrate and enhance value. Going forward, Birla Cellulose will intensify and strengthen its specialty portfolio towards value-added green textile solutions for the future.
ColorJet Dyeing To Expand Its Footprint in Chinese Textile Market ◆ ◆ ◆
Digital printer Vastrajet ensures quick ROI VastraJet equipped with latest technological innovation - AiS™ (Adaptive Ink System) Metro offers productivity of up to 350 sq. metre per hour
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
After a successful show at ITMA 2019, Colorjet India Ltd will be now exhibiting at ShanghaiTex 2019 in China, which is an internationaltrade show, focused on future textile, fashion trends and innovations.
footprints in China to derive volume growth in the world's largest textile market, in a bid to be counted among the top five industrial inkjet printer manufacturers in the world by 2025. China has been the world's largest textile producing and exporting country and has remained strong over the past years, which makes this market a very compelling reason for ColorJet India Ltd to participate at ShanghaiTex. The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 150 billion, is expected to reach US$ 300 billion by 2024. According to an IDC report, ColorJet, with more than 33% market share in the super wide format digital ink printers in India,commands absolute leadership in the world's third largest textile exporting and fifth largest garment exporting country in the world.
ColorJet India Ltd, India's largest manufacturer of digital textile printing technology, is looking to expand its 210
The China textile market, which is pegged to be at US$ 230 billion, is expected to reach US$ 400 billion by 2022. China has been successful in maintaining this position for a long time now. ColorJet targets to capture 5-7% of the pie, looking at the vast potential market of super wide format digital ink printers. September - October 2019
NEWS "Order volumes this year have been exceptionally strong, so we are looking forward to continuing the momentum by having live systems running at ShanghaiTex. China is the biggest market and ColorJet will be looking to make its presencefelt in China," MrJitender Pal Singh (VP-Textile) at ColorJet India Limited said. "We are looking to capture 5-7% of the digital inkjet printer market in China in the coming years. With our existing product lineup, ColorJet prides itself in providing more sustainable and efficientsolutions that deliver maximumproductivity as compared to its nearest competitor," he added.
The Vastrajet is an established winner and over the last several years has fulfilled one purpose without fail, which is ensuring a quick ROI. Apart from having better production speed and compact design than its competitors, VastraJet equipped with the ColorJet's latest technological innovation - AiS™ (Adaptive Ink System) has become an even more attractive investment."Keeping future sustainability in mind, Colorjet strives to supports its customers with all that is needed to get the best out of its products; be it software, inks, consumables, spare parts or after sales service,"Mr. Singh informed.
ColorJet India Ltd, will be showcasing live demonstrations of India's most preferred direct to fabric printer, the Vastrajet® on pigment ink and the Metro, a high performance printeronreactiveinkfor fashion apparel producersin Hall-W1, Booth-B-15.
For more information please visit:www.colorjetgroup.com. Media Contacts: Ms. Kareena Choudhary Marketing Manager Colorjet India Limited Cell: +91 99100-90306 Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications, India Cell : +91 98250-38518 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net
The Metro by ColorJet is a modular, versatile industrial production printer with Kyocera print heads and with variable drop printing technology enables higher resolution of 600x1800dpi, fine printing quality and excellent sharpness with productivity of up to 350sq. metre per hour.
Colorjet Styling Sustainable Fashion Printing At NYFW 2019 ◆ ◆
Colorjet associates with fashion designer Niti Singhal at New York Fashion Week Singhal redefines sustainability with convertible & reversible clothing ColorJet too provides sustainable way of printing fast fashion fabrics
One', showcased her collection at Flying Solo atNew York Fashion Week(NYFW) 2019. NYFW was recently held in New York from September 6-11, 2019 where famous faces like Gigi Hadid, Priyanka Chopra and KritiSanonalong with 70+ designers and around 700guests were present for this prestigious event. Flying Solo is an innovative fashion brand, an organisation of designers and a platformwhich is revolutionising fashion by making up-coming designers the main beneficiaries. The result is a hotbed of creativity, inspiration, and the most vibrant experience in New York City.
ColorJet India Ltd, India's biggest manufacturer of digital inkjet textile printersin association with NitiSinghal, a renowned fashion designer from the house of 'Twee in September - October 2019
As the awareness of sustainability grows in the fashion industry, there are voices awakening in the fashion industry that recognise the toll on the environment, and are pushing forward to encourage sustainable fashion. ColorJet strives to achieve sustainability in the industry and has taken a step forward by collaborating with Niti Singhal at Flying Solo - NYFW to spread awareness 211
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
◆
NEWS about this initiative. Niti Singhal, founder of 'Twee in One' creates convertible and reversible clothing that easily lets you change your look from Day to Night; Formal to Casual and; Meeting to Party; with just one set of clothing. Niti Singhal says, "With the idea of a movement towards sustainability, I came up with this concept of Twee in One, which tries to promote more style with lesser clothing. "One can have right quantity of clothes in his/her wardrobe and yet have many looks and that's how I re-define sustainability.Moreover, I also use sustainable digital textile printing methods for all my designs," Singhal informs. The designs showcased in the show consisted of a mix of Cotton Wrap Satin fabric printed with Reactive ink, Polyester Crepe fabric printed with Disperse ink and Cotton Satin fabric printed with Pigment ink. Digital Textile printing, as compared to its traditional analogue alternatives, is more sustainable in the ways of minimal waste generation and offers a way forward towards clean, efficient and profitable manufacturing. Whereas, traditional Rotary screen-printing uses 50-60 litres per metre of water, Digital Textile printing is the efficient alternative, which consumes only 14-20 litres per metre of water.This has helped save as much as 40 billion litres of water worldwide in just 2018. It also offers ink efficiency by consuming only 10% of colour as compared to screen-printing. ColorJet with its various Digital Printing Solutions provides a better and a sustainable way of printing. ColorJet printers has advanced capabilities to match the pace of ever evolving trends and has opened new avenues for
many who are looking out for superb quality and innovative design. Smarth Bansal, DGM (Brand & Product) at ColorJet adds, "It is exciting to see that the fashionistas themselves are bringing about the change they wish to see regarding sustainability. At ColorJet, we always strive to be a responsible brand and take steps towards it. With this participation, ColorJet has stepped right into the middle of things to promote the cause of sustainability by spreading awareness aboutthe benefits of digital textile printing over traditional printing methods." About The Authors: Smarth Bansal, An alumnus of IIM Calcutta, has been in digital printing industry for 5 years and is currently serving as the DGM (Brand & Product) at ColorJet India Ltd. NitiSinghal, An alumnus of IstitutoMarangoni, is the founder of fashion house Twee in One. She has had industryexperience with some of the most significant Italian and French fashion houses. For more information, please visit www.colorjetgroup.com Media Contacts: Ms.KareenaChoudhary Marketing Manager ColorJet India Limited Cell: +91 9910090306 Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications India Cell: +91 9825038518 Email: arun@tauruscomm.net
First Half of 2019 Characterized by Low Demand in the New Machinery Business Journal of the TEXTILE Association
◆
◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ 212
Order intake in the first half of 2019 amounted to CHF 378.3 million, 26% below the previous year period At CHF 416.1 million, sales were 19% down on the previous year period EBIT of CHF -1.2 million and net profit of CHF -3.8 million Implementation of cost-cutting measures proceeding according to plan Innovations successfully launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona Major order from Egypt signed - worth around CHF 180 million
◆ ◆
Completion of real estate sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) expected in the third quarter 2019 Outlook unchanged compared to spring 2019
In the first half of 2019, Rieter posted an order intake of CHF 378.3 million (first half year 2018: CHF 511.8 million). This represents a decline of around 26% compared to the previous year period. As already reported, the main reason was low demand in the new machinery business (Business Group Machines & Systems: 34%). Rieter understands that market share remained unchanged at the previous year's level of around 30%. Order backlog as at June 30, 2019 was CHF 295 September - October 2019
NEWS million (December 31, 2018: CHF 325 million). Sales in the first half of 2019 amounted to CHF 416.1 million (first half year 2018: CHF 515.3 million), which represents a decline of 19% compared to the previous year period. This development is mainly attributable to lower demand in the new machinery business (Business Group Machines & Systems: -27%). EBIT, Net Profit and Free Cash Flow The significant decline in sales in the machinery business resulted in an operating loss (EBIT) of CHF -1.2 million in the first half of 2019 (first half year 2018: CHF +14.1 million). The cost-cutting measures introduced had a positive effect on the result from the second quarter of 2019. Net profit was CHF -3.8 million (first half year 2018: CHF +10.9 million). Due to the seasonal increase in net working capital, free cash flow amounted to CHF
-23.4 million (first half year 2018: CHF -59.7 million). Net liquidity as at June 30, 2019, was CHF 97.6 million (December 31, 2018: CHF 150.2 million). The equity ratio as of June 30, 2019, stood at 45.7% (December 31, 2018: 44.6%). Sales in the first half of 2019 declined by 19% to CHF 416.1 million (first half year2018: CHF 515.3 million). In the Asian countries (excluding China, India and Turkey),sales fell by 17% to CHF 165.4 million. In Vietnam and Pakistan, by contrast, salesincreased compared tothe previous year period. In China, sales declined by 12% toCHF 72.6 million. In contrast, sales in India increased by 11% to CHF 66.7 million. InTurkey, sales fell by 58% to CHF 24.5 million in the first half of 2019. Sales in Northand South America declined by 8% to CHF 54.8 million. In the Europe region, salesamounted to CHF 23.1 million (-13%) and in Africa
Regions CHF million
January - June 2019
January - June 2018
Change
Change in local currency
Sales
416.1
515.3
-19%
-19%
Asian countries1
165.4
200.1
-17%
-17%
China
72.6
82.6
-12%
-10%
India
66.7
60.2
11%
13%
Turkey
24.5
58.3
-58%
-58%
North and South America
54.8
59.6
-8%
-9%
Europe
23.1
26.5
-13%
-11%
Africa
9.0
28.0
-68%
-68%
January - June 2018
Change
Change in
1 Excluding China, India and Turkey Business Groups CHF million
January - June 2019
Order intake
378.3
511.8
-26%
-26%
Machines & Systems
196.2
297.7
-34%
-34%
Components
115.8
139.1
-17%
-16%
After Sales
66.3
75.0
-12%
-11%
Sales
416.1
515.3
-19%
-19%
Machines & Systems
220.8
303.9
-27%
-27%
Components
123.3
137.3
-10%
-9%
After Sales
72.0
74.1
-3%
-3%
September - October 2019
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
local currency
213
NEWS to CHF 9.0 million (-68%). Order intake by the Business Group Machines & Systems fell by 34% to CHF 196.2 million (first half year 2018: CHF 297.7 million). The reasons for the customers' reluctance to invest were, primarily, overcapacity in the spinning mills, the trade conflict between the USA and China, and political and economic uncertainties in other regions of importance to Rieter. In addition, some customers have been holdingback on investment decisions and waiting for the innovations presented at ITMA inBarcelona in June 2019. For the Business Group, sales were CHF 220.8 million(first half year 2018: CHF 303.9 million), around 27% below the previous year period.This reflects the low demand for new machinery, which has prevailed since the fourthquarter of 2018. Despite the ongoing cost reduction measures, due to lower volumesEBIT amounted to CHF -23.8 million (first half year 2018: CHF -14.8 million).
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The Business Group Components posted an order intake of CHF 115.8 million(first half year 2018: CHF 139.1 million), which was around 17% down on theprevious year period. The decline was related, in particular, to the business activitiesof SSM and Suessen, mainly as a consequence of the investment restraint in themarket, as already described. At CHF 123.3 million, sales were 10% down on theprior year level (first half year 2018: CHF 137.3 million). This again related, inparticular, to SSM and Suessen. Business for wear and tear parts for spinning mills,however, is running at a good level. EBIT amounted to CHF 6.4 million (first half year2018: CHF 19.2 million). In addition to the decline in sales to third parties, a downturnin volume of deliveries to the Business Group Machines & Systems was also evidenthere. Order intake in the Business Group After Sales fell by 12% year-on-year to CHF66.3 million (first half year 2018: CHF 75.0 million). This was mainly attributable tothe lack of installation volume for new machinery. However, the spare parts businessfor spinning mills is at a good level. At CHF 72.0 million, sales were 3% down on theprevious year (first half year 2018: CHF 74.1 million). Despite lower sales, EBITreached CHF 12.3 million and was therefore higher than the previous year period(first half year 2018: CHF 11.2 million). Implementation of Cost-Cutting Measures Proceeding According to PlanIn March 2019, in response to the market situation Rieter announced and began 214
toimplement capacity adjustment and cost reduction measures. These measuresincluded a reduction of the workforce by around 5% worldwide. Implementation of themeasures is proceeding as planned. On June 30, 2019, Rieter employed 4 743people worldwide (December 31, 2018: 5 134 employees). Changes to the Group Executive Committee Since May 1, 2019, Rieter Group has two new Group Executive Committeemembers: Kurt Ledermann is Chief Financial Officer and Rico Randegger is Headof the Business Group After Sales. Innovations Successfully Launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona At ITMA 2019, Rieter presented a comprehensive range of innovations for all fourspinning mill systems established on the market. These innovations are aimed atreducing the raw material, energy and labor costs while increasing productivity andflexibility in the spinning mill. Rieter also presented new solutions for the productionof innovative yarns and the automation and flexibility of existing systems, as wellas the further development of the digital platform ESSENTIAL. The innovationspresented were received very positively by the many customers that Rieterwelcomed at the trade fair. Rieter therefore achieved an important milestone inthe implementation of its corporate strategy and is now focusing on the successfulmarket launch. Major Order from Egypt Signed - Worth around CHF 180 Million At ITMA 2019, the Rieter Group signed contracts with Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt). The contracts cover seven projects with a total volume for Rieter of around CHF 180 million. The agreement includes deliveries of compact and ringspinning systems over the next two years. The order is part of a comprehensive modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry. Order intake is expected to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/ 2021 financial years. Completion of Real Estate Sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) Expected in the Third Quarter 2019 As already reported, Rieter is selling its real estate in Ingolstadt. Completion of the transaction is expected during the third quarter of 2019. Rieter anticipates an extraordinary profit contribution at the level of net profit of around EUR 60 million. The employees remaining in Ingolstadt will move into a new building in 2021. There, Rieter will create a modern working environment for September - October 2019
NEWS innovative research and development work and the respective support functions. Outlook Demand for new machinery remained at a low level in the first half of 2019. Rieter does not anticipate a significant upturn in the market in the second half year period. For the full financial year 2019, compared to the previous year Rieter expects a significant decline in sales, EBIT and net profit (before extraordinary income from the sale of the real estate in Ingolstadt). The cost-cutting measures introduced will continue to be implemented as planned. Rieter is focusing on the successful market launch of the innovations which were presented and received positively by the customers at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona. Presentation Material The half-year report, the media and investor presentation and the media release can be found at: https:// www.rieter.com/media/media-kit/
Forthcoming Dates ◆ Trading Update 2019: October 29, 2019 ◆ Publication of sales 2019: January 29, 2020 ◆ Deadline for proposals regarding the agenda of the Annual General Meeting: February 22, 2020 ◆ Results press conference 2020: March 10, 2020 ◆ Annual General Meeting 2020: April 16, 2020 For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd. Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer Tel +41 52 208 70 15 / Fax +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comRieter Management Ltd. Media Relations Relindis Wieser, Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 / F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com
Flushable wipes: the answer to sustainability
Wet-Laying Technology The wet-laid process for nonwovens is similar to the making of paper. The first step involves suspension of fibres and water to form a slurry, so that single fibres of different types are evenly distributed in the water. The web formed is passed over a wire belt. When water is sucked off, a homogeneous fibre mat is formed. The spunlacing process performed by the AquaJet system on this fibre mat further produces nonwovens that feel like textile. Unlike a carding process where longer fibres are required, wet-laying can utilise short fibres of 2 mm to up to 15 mm to form the web. In principle, every fibre that is dispersed in water can be wet-laid. Hence, fibres of low cost like wood pulp i.e., cellulose fibres, man-made and mineral fibres, etc., can be used. The WLS (wet-laying/spunlacing) process goes without binders by hydro-entangling the single fibres. Wipes produced through wet-in-wet processes are extremely September - October 2019
versatile. Truetzschler Nonwovens in collaboration with Voith Paper offers the following solutions for manufacturing wet-laid nonwovens: Hydro Former from Voith Group Most conventional dry or air-laid sheet forming processes are based on the use of long fibres. This meant that in the past, it was often not possible to use the less expensive and more environmentally compatible pulp fibres for nonwoven production. To close this gap, Voith's HydroFormer acts as a bridge between paper and nonwoven production. The HydroFormer concept for wet-laid nonwovens builds on Voith's longstanding experience from the paper and pulp industry. Inexpensive and biodegradable, thanks to a very high dilution in suspension, nonwovens produced by the HydroFormer can be produced entirely out of renewable, cost-efficient cellulose feedstock. Apart from the obvious cost savings and environmental benefits, this process offers homogeneous sheet formation and considerable flexibility for multi-ply end products. It also enables the manufacturing of disposable cleaning wipes from 100% biodegradable materials. 215
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Dry wipes or wet wipes usually cause issues with sewage systems due to their failure to disintegrate in water. To counter this problem, Voith Group (Division: Paper) and Truetzschler Nonwovens joined hands to develop flushable wipes. These wipes can be flushed down the toilet because they disintegrate into individual fibres in agitated water.
NEWS Voith Group's HydroFormer has been specifically optimised for the formation of wet-laid nonwovens and, with more than 70 successful installations, has gained worldwide acceptance.
◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Benefits of the Hydro Former ◆ Cost effective use of raw materials ◆ Renewable materials used exclusively ◆ Considerable minimisation of fibre losses due to re-use ◆ Simple one step manufacturing of multi-ply products ◆ Extensive flexibility in raw material use AquaJet for spunlacing from Truetzschler Nonwovens After the web is formed in the HydroFormer, it needs to be bonded to add strength and function. In the bonding step, the know-how from Truetzschler is applied. Web bonding is performed with the help of the AquaJet. In this field, Truetzschler Nonwovens can draw on its extensive experience of more than 100 projects running worldwide.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Compared with other web bonding methods, the AquaJet spunlacing process does not use chemical binding agents or bicomponent fibres, but relies only on the momentum of water jets to entangle the fibres with one another. Continuous high-pressure water jets strike the loose nonwoven web, which is moved through on a belt underneath the water bar, while suction fans remove the water used. The bonding increases tensile strength and lends the material the soft feel of a textile. Structures and perforations can also be created, if required.
Benefits of the Aqua Jet ◆ Use of environmentally friendly and inexpensive raw materials
Soft nonwovens Natural bonding process using water only High savings potential - thanks to optimised pump and vacuum performance Integrated system for excellent nonwoven quality
In harmony with the environment Apart from short fibres being used, the VoithTruetzschler process avoids the use of chemical binders to bond the web formed. This reduces the raw material cost for making nonwovens. Compared to oilbased materials like PET/PP fibres, cellulose fibres do not burden the environment after use. Wipes produced entirely from these degradable fibres in a customised wet-laid spunlacing process can therefore be conveniently flushed down the toilet. Both the AquaJet and the HydroFormer have been developed with water conservation in mind. The water from the process is filtered via a shared water cycle with downstream production steps, and then treated and returned to the manufacturing process. Flushable products must pass a defined test sequence developed by INDA and EDANA, the North American and European nonwovens associations. About Voith Paper: Founded in 1867, Voith Paper is a pioneer and a leading partner to the paper industry. Through constant innovation, Voith Paper is optimising the paper manufacturing process, focusing on developing resourcesaving products to reduce the use of energy, water, and fibres. Voith is headquartered in Germany and has sales & manufacturing worldwide. About Truetzschler: Truetzschler, founded in 1888, is a family-owned German company with global operations that specialises in the manufacture of machines, installations, and accessories for spinning preparation, nonwovens and manmade fibre.
HUNTSMAN Textile effects introduces ERIOPON E-3 Save Dyeing Auxiliary HUNTSMAN Textile effects introduces ERIOPON E-3 Save Dyeing Auxiliary to significantly cut costs of Polyester Dyeing. 216
ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING AUXILIARY SAVES TIME, WATER AND ENERGY BY ENABLING PRE-SCOURING, DYEING AND REDUCTION CLEARING IN A SINGLE -BATH September - October 2019
NEWS Singapore - Huntsman Textile Effects introduces the breakthrough ERIOPON® E3-SAVE dyeing auxiliary for the new "single-bath scour-dye-reduction clear concept" providing the shortest possible processing cycle for polyester thus saving time, water, energy and cost. The demand for polyester and man-made fibers is booming as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand rapidly around the world. At the same time, brands, consumers and mills are increasingly focused on sustainability and performance resulting in raising demand for optimization of the costly, time consuming and resource intensive polyester dyeing process. Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, the advanced all-in-one ERIOPON® E3-SAVE dyeing auxiliary is engineered to help the mills achieve considerable savings in the water, energy and time for the intensive process of dyeing polyester and its blends by combining pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath. "ERIOPON® E3-SAVE dyeing auxiliary delivers in all critical stages of polyester dyeing from pre-scouring to washing-off for exceptional performance and environmental and economic sustainability. Its environmental credentials offer mills greater processing flexibility and an optimum price-performance ratio," said Oliver
Gerlach, Global Marketing Manager for Process Chemicals at Huntsman Textile Effects. "We expect this latest offering to support the textile industry's drive towards more ecofriendly practices." With cutting-edge polymer technology at its heart, ERIOPON® E3-SAVE auxiliary can be used to successfully dye in jet applications without the need for anti-foaming products. The superior leveling of ERIOPON® E3-SAVE auxiliary also increases reproducibility, allowing mills to dispense with additional leveling agents. Polyester, microfibers and blends treated with ERIOPON® E3-SAVE auxiliary comply with the requirements of bluesign®, Level 3 of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Gateway (ZDHC) and the Restricted Substances Lists of international brands, in addition to being suitable for processing of textiles in compliance with STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® and the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). ERIOPON® E3-SAVE auxiliary is an addition to the dyEvolutionTM range - Huntsman's commitment to an environmentally and economically sustainable textile value chain through its range of high-performance products.
ISOWARP - Indian best Sectional Warping Technology by Karl Mayer are close to 150 machines of a single model, the ERGOTEC, running successfully in India! Based on market needs, KARL MAYER had also introduced the ISOWARP model sectional warper, which has been manufactured in Germany and China. Several ISOWARP sectional warpers are also working well in India and Bangladesh. To meet the growing demand for the ISOWARP model, it has been decided that this model will now also be manufactured in India by KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India Private Ltd, Ahmedabad. ISOWARPGesamtmaschineTE6A3911
KARL MAYER is a pioneer in manufacturing world class machines for warp preparation. They have been producing many types of sectional warpers, and over the years have supplied these machines across the globe, including hundreds in India. For example, there September - October 2019
Sectional warping is one of the crucial processes in warp preparation to produce quality and defect-free warp beams. The ISOWARP sectional warping machine ensures quality warp beams for all types of yarns suitable for shirting, suiting, dress material, upholstery, etc. ISOWARP has been proven to run at higher 217
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
ISOWARP - the best in sectional warping technology from KARL MAYER - is now MADE IN INDIA
NEWS warping and beaming speeds and, in particular, with a substantial simplification of operation, resulting in improved production. Beam to beam reproducibility is guaranteed with KARL MAYER`s in-built KAMCOS system, which additionally has easy access to the teleservice network to remotely support machine maintenance. Only warps of the highest quality guarantee optimal efficiency and fault-free fabric in the weaving department. This modern sectional warping guarantees perfect warp quality at maximum productivity, which is a decisive factor for the weaving department.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
How ISOWARP ensures the best quality warp? ◆ Optimum warp build-up on the drum with precise positioning of the reed headstock to the cone is achieved fully automatically and with the highest precision. The reed headstock feed movement is followed automatically ◆ Uniform cylindrical build-up guaranteed through evener roller ensures that the yarn count variations and yarn volume changes do not cause any density variations ◆ The reverse rotation of the drum is important in ensuring a perfect warp sheet laying at its winding point onto the drum with maximum levelling effect from the evener roller ◆ The KARL MAYER system permits the optimal winding density while at the same time ensuring minimal yarn loading. Thus, an absolutely cylindrical build-up of the warp is achieved from the first to the last section ◆ Thanks to a short distance between the measuring roller and the evener roller, section spread is practically negligible ISOWARP is designed to produce production warps for all the types of suiting, shirting, sheeting and furnishing applications with the most competitive price performance ratio. Features: ◆ Uniform thread tension ◆ High residual elongation ◆ Exact thread array ◆ No crossed ends ◆ No missing ends Several factors are responsible for high productivity. A
218
combination of high speed with minimal yarn tension and optimal operator ergonomic preconditions guarantee maximum productivity. The highest precision with long term reliability is required to ensure the best warp quality while preparing warp beams on section warping machine. Also, all ends are wound onto the drum with exactly the same length and uniform tension - this is a key assurance from KARL MAYER. The ISOWARP further guarantees: Exact cone alignment Precise section width determination Extremely precise feed calculation Evener roller at the running-on point Automatic section alignment Automatic section tension control
◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Why have section tension control? Through the consistent application of electronic control engineering and the perfect position of an evener roller, modern sectional warping machines can reliably produce a cylindrical material build-up on the warping drum. Equal end length over the whole width of the warp is thus guaranteed. It ensures that the ends are not only wound to be the same diameter, but also with the same thread tension. The advantages of the section tension control The section tension control measures the overall tension of the warp section immediately in front of the winding-on point on the drum, coverts it into the value for a single end and then compares this figure with the specified figure entered in the system. When any divergence occurs, the CPU adjusts the thread tensioners on the creel until the specified tension range is reached again. Control is so quick and precise that the figure specified is held even in the run- up phase. This means, it is possible to achieve fully constant thread tension conditions in every phase of the warping process, independent of: ◆ changes in speed, even in the start and stop phase; ◆ diminishing package diameter; and ◆ any warp bobbin change in the middle of the warp; A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited is the sole selling agent for KARL MAYER in India and can guide customers in selecting appropriate technologies and machine configurations to meet their requirements.
September - October 2019
NEWS
ITAMMA receives overwhelming response at Product-Cum-Catalogue Show at Ludhiana
Mr. Jugal Kishore Pansari, President ITAMMA informed that, when we declared about the event some 6 months before, there was a very good response by recording a booking of 40 stalls. However noting the slow down business trend in last 2-3 months, the members were in dilemma about the response of visitors to the event. Accordingly we started interacting with the Textile Industry representatives at Ludhiana, giving the details and the importance of our event '22nd ProductCum-Catalogue Show' scheduled on 20th Sept'2019 at Hotel Park Plaza in Ludhiana. This assignment was taken seriously and proactively by our Members and their agents and staff located in and around Ludhiana, thereby explaining the importance and the advantage of this event to the Industry people.
Mr. Pansari further added that during such business slow down, the Industry should spare some time on R & D, exploring statistical DATA, knowing new products & processes required by the Market as well as fruitful interaction with the Machine & Component manufacturers and suppliers for product diversification. ITAMMA took efforts to address the PRESS & Media during the PRESS Conference organised on 20th September, 2019 at Hotel Park Plaza on 19th September, 2019; where about 25 Press & Media persons were present. The detail of the Press Conference was published by Punjab Kesari, Jagbani, Dainik Jagaran, Dainik Savera, Ajit, etc. on 20th September, 2019; further creating an awareness and sensitization among the Textile Industries of Ludhiana. This has eventually added on to our efforts in inviting the visitors, further recording the footfall of more than 480. About 40 ITAMMA member-exhibitors displayed their products (list is given in Table-I) from PAN India, viz. Mumbai, Gwalior, Coimbatore, Ahmedabad.
Mr. Jugal Kishore Pansari addressing Press Conference
Felicitation of Mill Head
Group Photo at Mill Visit
Chief Guest inaugurating the exhibition
September - October 2019
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
"ITAMMA's 22nd Product-Cum-Catalogue Show at Ludhiana receives overwhelming response during so called Slow down Market" says Jugal Kishore Pansari, President ITAMMA.
219
NEWS Overall comments of more than 80% of the exhibitors are recorded as 'Excellent' for this event. Posters & Catalogues to the visitors.
View of visitors at Exhibition
Felicitation of Chief Guest
Visitors of the category President, Managing Director, Vice-President, Managers, Sr. Executives, Technicians and from different fields, viz. Spinning, Weaving, & Wet Processing of more than 30 industries viz. Vardhman Textile, Vardhman Polytex, Nahar Fibres, Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ltd, Ganga Acrowool Ltd, Oswal woollen Mills, Sportking Industries, Kaursain Spinners, Arisudana Industries, T C Spinners, Lalru, SEL Manufacturing Ltd, S T Cottex Exports, etc. attended the show and registered their satisfaction.
The post event was also well published in the Local Newspapers viz., Punjab Kesari, Jagbani, Dainik Jagaran, Dainik Savera, Ajit, etc.
The event was financially supported by the Sponsors "Dept. of Co-operation, Marketing and Textiles, Govt. of Maharashtra, who promoted their activities in their Pavilion during the event. India ITME Society was also one of the Sponsor who promoted its forthcoming two events, 'ITME Africa-2020 scheduled from 14-16 February, 2020 at Millennium Hall, Addis Ababa Ethiopia and 'ITME-2020' scheduled at Greater Noida, India, from 10-15 December, 2020. While ITAMMA Members viz, Dilip AN Company, Coimbatore, Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai, SIMTA Manufacturing Company, Coimbatore and Supertex Industries, Mumbai were the Co-Sponsors.
The members of ALMTI and FICCO from Machine Tool Industry also attended the show thus exploring the opportunity for good partners for transfer of technology and business tie-ups.
Mr. Pansari lastly thanked Sponsors, Co-sponsors, ITAMMA Member Exhibitors, Visitors and Hotel Management for their whole hearted co-operation to make this show a Grand Success.
On 19th September, 2019, as per our regular practice a Mill Visit to M/s. S.T. Cottex Export Pvt. Ltd., Machiwana, Ludhiana was organised where 17 ITAMMA members took an advantage to know the operational functions of the product, processes and work place.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
View of visitors at Exhibition
ADVERTISEMENT INDEX A.T.E. China Home life Grasim Industries Ltd. ISTE ITMACH ITME India 220
A-5 A-4 Cover3 A-6 A-2 A-7
Lakshmi Machine Works Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. Reliance Industries Ltd. Rieter India Ltd. (Components) Trutzschler India Unitech Techmech
A-1 A-8 Cover 1 Cover 2 A-3 Cover 4
September - October 2019
NEWS
Karl Mayer - Paying tribute to good partnerships
Customer Event Vietnam
The exchange of ideas and information during a relaxed gathering is a genuine appreciation, particularly in times of short text messages. For this reason, and in order to honor the loyalty of their clients, KARL MAYER and ILLIES invited globally leading textile industrialists and international investors of the Vietnamese textile industry to take part in a joint exclusive event which took place in Ho Chi Minh City on 11. October 2019. The invitation to this get-together met with a great response. Around 90 participants from 13 countries attended the festive meeting. Most of the guests came from Vietnam, Korea, Taiwan and China. And some of them even undertook the long journey from Europe. The internationality of the guests can be explained by the specific nature of the Vietnamese market. Especially in the last ten years, a lot of global players, mainly from Asia, invested in Vietnam, in order to benefit from the favourable manpower situation. The Vietnamese textile industry 2018/19 With exports of 36.2 billion US dollars, 2018 was the most successful year for the Vietnamese textile and clothing industries. Considering the trade war between China and the USA, the year 2019 brought both chances and challenges for Vietnam. In the first six months, the export of the sector to the USA increased by 29%. The sales revenues in the US American market amounted to approx. 7 billion US dollars. This represents 46% of the total revenues. The country has high exports but low imports. To reduce the surplus, US President Donald Trump threatened to impose punitive tariffs on Vietnamese products at the G 20 Summit in June 2019. Additional levies would have a great impact September - October 2019
on the Vietnamese economy, because the USA is the most important market for this Asian country. The local textile and clothing market is dominated by imports from China. International textile groups still set up subsidiaries and affiliated companies. Today, the value of foreign direct investments in the country's textile industry exceeds 18 billion US dollars. This situation is also reflected by the warp-knitting sector. Reliable partners KARL MAYER and ILLIES have closely accompanied the development of the country to the world's third largest exporter of textiles and apparel. KARL MAYER assists its clients with innovative textile machines, with technology know-how, competence in textile development and support in tapping market potential. This global player has already carried out more than 1,100 machine installations at more than 100 customers in the Vietnamese economic area. "Together with our partner ILLIES Engineering Vietnam, we have a strong team that offers customers optimal support in the areas of machine sales, aftersales and service", explains Rainer Müller Sales Director Asia at KARL MAYER. "Our goal is to make our customers successful. We are working hard to develop new, innovative products with a high level of customer benefit. Only recently at ITMA in Barcelona we presented innovative machines, textile developments and digital solutions, which should help our customers to create new products and open up new markets", stressed Arno Gärnter, KARL MAYER's CEO, in his speech at the customer event. Together with their customers, KARL MAYER and ILLIES raised their glasses to the successes obtained, and enjoyed an entertaining evening with long-time business partners and friends. KARL MAYER and ILLIES thank their customers for the good partnership with a festive dinner table. For more information, please conract: Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 / Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com 221
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
KARL MAYER and ILLIES expressed their thanks to customers in Vietnam with an exclusive event
NEWS
LENZING ECOVERO marks an entry into Indian fashion brands with Global Desi and AND The collaboration is a substantial step in LENZING's sustainability journey within India LENZING™ ECOVERO™, the sustainable and environmentally responsible viscose fibre brand of Lenzing Group today announced the partnership with lifestyle fashion brands - Global Desi and AND from The House of Anita Dongre. The collaboration will offer customers a special collection by the brands made with sustainable fibre. This partnership marks a key milestone in the sustainability journey of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ as the eco-viscose fiber's forays into one of India's leading fashion houses.
Commenting on the collaboration, Avinash Mane, Commercial Head, South Asia, Lenzing AG shared, "With climate change and global warming becoming a stark reality, conversations around making concrete changes to sustaining our ecology are now mainstream. Consumers are eager to understand how their choices make a difference and asserting them for the sake of the world they live in. Leading this trend is a growing demand for sustainable fashion within the Indian market and we are delighted to expand our existing association with The House of Anita Dongre to Global Desi and AND - their young and vibrant brands with a global appeal. The given popularity of the brands will allow us to reach out to a wider audience in India and reinforcing the importance of adopting sustainable choices." Speaking about the collaboration, Anita Dongre, Chief Creative Officer, House of Anita Dongre shared, "As nature and animal lover, and a vegan, I feel very strongly about our impact on the environment. The fashion industry is the second largest polluting industry in the world and therefore sustainability is the need of the hour. At the House of Anita Dongre, we are striving to be sustainable and are making firm efforts to reduce our environmental footprint."
AND & GD - EcoVero
LENZING™ ECOVERO™ is an innovation by the Lenzing Group, makers of TENCEL™ fibers. TENCEL™ is also part of the FW19 collection with both brands. The Global Desi and AND collection using fine sustainable ECOVERO™ fibres is a fresh new take on timeless designs, blending architecture with art, and classic silhouettes with contemporary aesthetics.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM is a sustainable viscose brand manufactured only from certified and controlled wood sources and produced with significantly lower emissions and water than generic viscose, making it one of the best sustainable fibers in the industry.
AND & GD - EcoVero (6) 222
LENZING™ ECOVERO™ With 80 years of experience, the Lenzing Group is the only company in the world which produces significant volumes of all three wood-based cellulose fibre generations. The Lenzing Group is an international comSeptember - October 2019
NEWS pany that produces high-quality fibres made with wood pulp from sustainable tree farms. Derived from certified renewable wood sources using an eco-responsible production process by meeting high environmental standards, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers tailor to a sustainable lifestyle, contributing to a cleaner environment. Sustainability at House of Anita Dongre We believe in creating beautiful tomorrows for our crafts, people and planet. We look towards the future, practicing and building processes that are sustainable, innovative and environmentally conscious. Emphasizing the extremely important role of Design for fashion sustainability, Anita touched upon the need for educating designers on sustainable fibers and reducing fabric waste. Being passionate about women empowerment through economic independence¸ she referred to fashion as an amazing, wonderful tool for bringing employment back to villages of India. To accelerate transition to a more sustainable industry, she put forth the idea of audit agencies to consider looking
beyond conventional profit and loss assessment of companies to also include social & environmental impacts created. We have supported planting of 25,000 trees for forests & wildlife as part of Earth Day celebrations in April 2018 in collaboration with grow-trees.com at Bassi Wildlife Sanctuary, Chittorgarh district of Rajasthan (India) coupled with a unique consumer engagement campaign. Our design headquarters in Navi Mumbai was constructed keeping in mind our environment. The ecoconscious building is constructed to conserve energy and reduce our carbon foot-print by harnessing natural sunlight and ventilation. 90% of our Exclusive Brand Outlets now equipped with energy saving LED lamps.67% of waste water generated is recycled which is deployed for toilet flushing and lawn irrigation. We have set up segregation of wet and dry waste for composting. 100% of our Electronic Waste (E-Waste) is recycled & disposed off in an environment-friendly manner.
Lenzing invests EUR 40 mn to further improve the ecological footprint
The Lenzing Group is a global leader in the climatefriendly and sustainable production of wood-based textile fibers. Lenzing announced its climate targets in August of this year. By 2030, the company aims to reduce its specific CO2 emissions per ton of manufactured pulp and fibers by 50 percent. By the year 2050, the Lenzing Group will no longer generate any net CO2 emissions. September - October 2019
223
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Construction of a new air purification and sulfur recovery plant ◆ Further improvement of the exhaust emission values at the Lenzing site ◆ Important step in achieving the CO2 targets of the Lenzing Group
NEWS Lenzing's Management Board has now resolved to invest EUR 40 mn to expand the production of the raw material sulfuric acid at the Lenzing site. This comprises an important milestone on the path towards climate neutrality. In the future, a new air purification and sulfur recovery plant will not only optimize the company's self-sufficiency for this raw material and enhance process reliability but improve environmental protection within the context of a clear forward-looking strategy. Improved exhaust emission performance The new plant represents an important contribution towards implementing the sustainability strategy of the Lenzing Group, and also helps to ensure an even higher level of environmental compatibility of all production operations at the Lenzing site. The application of stateof-the-art technologies will further improve exhaust emission values. Furthermore, the new facility will help further reduce the use of fossil fuels by generating steam which will, in turn, be converted into electricity. In this way, it will also support the energy self-sufficiency of the company's operations in Lenzing.
Improved CO2 scorecard As a result, the production plant in Lenzing will reduce its annual CO2 emissions by 15,000 tons. This is animportant step towards further advancing the company's ambitious plans in the coming years and alsostrengthen Lenzing's leadership role as a driver of ecologically sustainable industry. "On the basis of theseinvestments, Lenzing is taking the next step in achieving its climate targets. At the same time, it will also reacha significantly higher level of autonomy with respect to a vital raw material", states Stefan Doboczky, ChiefExecutive Officer of Lenzing. For more information please contact: Filip Miermans Vice President Corporate Communications & Investor Relations Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft WerkstraĂ&#x;e 2, 4860 Lenzing, Austria Phone +43 7672 701 2743 Mobile +43 664 84 77 802 / Fax +43 7672 918 2743 E-mail f.miermans@lenzing.com Web www.lenzing.com
ATC-15 - Twin conferences in twin Chinese cities Mr. Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury of Department of Textile Technology, Govt. College of Engg. & Textile Technology, Serampore, Hooghly, (WB) and Dr. V. Shyam Kumar of Karnatak University from India presented a paper on the topic "Eco-friendly Flame Retardants" in this 15th Asian Textile conference.
The 15th Asian Textile Conference (ATC-15), organized by the China Textile Engineering Society (CTES). ATC-15 held in Hangzhou and ShaoxingCity during 27th to 29th September, 2019 at Zhejiang Sc-Tech University and Oriental Grand hotel. This conference held biennially and is a major event in the world of textiles. It provided a platform for sharing the latest research in textile and other convergence technology field and also for renewing and developing friendships as well as academia-business collaborations.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The federation of Asian Professional Textile Association (FAPTA) was established in 1991. It is composed of eight professional textile organizations of Asian countries namely India, China, Chinese Taipei, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Iran and Australia. Mr. A. K. Roy Choudhury presenting his paper
Asian textile conference (ATC) is its sole official event of FAPTA and is one of the World-leading conferences in the textile field. It is held every two years, hosted by one of the eight professional countries. It aims to promote collaborations among fibre and textile scientists and engineers, to provide a common platform and to build a global network. Mr. A. K. Roy Choudhury receiving Award 224
September - October 2019
NEWS First ATC was held in Delhiv(1991) followed by Korea (1993), Hong Kong (1995), Chinese Teipei (1997), Japan (1999), Hong Kong (2001), India (2003), Iran (2005), Chinese Teipei (2007), Japan (2009), Korea(2011), China (2013), Australia (2015), Hong Kong (2017) and this year in China.
T3: Modern Textile Technology T4: New Wool Textile Processing Technology T5: Silk Science and Technology T6: Eco-friendly Dyeing and Finishing T7: Clothing Technological innovation T8: Textile Testing and Evaluation.
15th ATC conference (ATC-15) was organized by FAPTA jointly with China Textile Engineering Society. Two conferences namely 15th ATC conference and 9th China Textile Academic Conference held simultaneously. Consequently,
Parallel sessions were conducted for each category of papers. For each category, about 5 presentations were allotted in each session namely morning and afternoon sessions. Audiences in each presentation room were moderate to good.
The main theme of ATC-15 is "Challenges and Opportunities to Textiles in the New Era", with a focus on the latest developments and trends, as well as future outlook of textile and other convergence technology field. The conference program included an impressive list of plenary and invited speakers from around the world, together with a large number of oral and poster presentations.
All paper and poster presentations were held in Hangzhou on 27th September, while Shaoxing programmes on 28th and 29th September were restricted to plenary lectures by eminent experts. The last day programme was devoted to forum meetings namely "Belt and Road Forum for Textile Cooperation" and "International Collaborative Innovation Management Forum for Textile and Garment Industry. Technical papers were classified into eight categories namely: T1: Advanced Fibre Material Forum T2: Functional materials and Functional Textiles
September - October 2019
Conference was a very robust and colourful event attended by a very large number of Chinese college students and personnel from Chinese industries (probably more than a thousand). They participated as speakers as well as delegates. The Chinese delegates were very large in number as against in those in Shanghai (ATC-12) and Hong Kong (ATC-14). But foreign delegates were very few and remarkably less in number as compared to those in ATC-12 and ATC-14.
225
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The conference started on 27th September with plenary lecture by Ruizhe Sun, President, China National Textile and Apparel Council. Other plenary lectures were presented on 28th September at Shaoxing by Prof. Yu (Donghua University), Prof.Seeram Ramakrishna (National University of Singapore, Prof.GajananBhat of University of Gorgia, Prof. S.H. Kim (Hanyang University, Korea), L. Koehl (ENSEIT, France), Prf. Jintu Fan (Hong Kong Poly. University), Prof. C.M. Carr (University of Leeds), Prof. Cui (Stanford University, USA) and Prof. Chen (Donghua University).
NEWS
5th BIGTEX - Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo 2019 press conference on Sunday (November 03) at the Economic Reporters' Forum (ERF) auditorium in the city. The organisers said targeting the entire Textile, Garment & Apparel industry, they are organizing four international exhibitions simultaneously at the same place - named Garment & Textile Machinery, Printing, Packaging & Sign Machinery, Dyes & Pigments Chemicals and Fabric & Yarn Expo. These exhibitions will also play an important role by showcasing latest machineries, technologies, dyes/ chemicals, yarns, fabrics available for Bangladesh on display with manufacturers/suppliers from the world available to our Industry at the doorstep. Also the expo will provide an opportunity to experts, engineers & technicians in the field of textile to have a practical knowledge of the recent technological advancements available, without going abroad. Garment & Textile Machinery, Equipment, Technology & Accessories - Manufacturer, Dealers, and Suppliers & Importers from home & abroad have participated and showcase their latest technology and innovation in the exhibitions.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Red Carpet365 Ltd has organized a press conference on 3rd November, 2019 at Economic Reporters Forum (ERF) - Auditorium of Dhaka, on the occasion of 5th Edition BIGTEX - Bangladesh Int'l Garment & Textile Machinery Expo 2019. BIGTEX 2019 is an international expo on Garment & Textile Machinery that will be held from 07 to 10 Nov 2019 at International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka. Targeting the entire Apparel industry, they have concurrent exhibitions as Bangladesh Int'l Print, Pack & Signage Expo, Bangladesh Int'l Fabric & Yarn Expo & Bangladesh Int'l Dyes & Chemical Expo. A four-day '5th BIGTEX - Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Industry Exposition, will begin on November 7 at the International Convention City Bashundhara in Dhaka. Commerce Minister Shri Tipu Munshi is expected to inaugurate the exposition on November 7 at 2:30 pm which will continue until November 10. RedCarpet365 Limited, the organiser of the BIGTEX expo, disclosed details about the mega exhibition at a 226
Ahmed Imtiaz, CEO of Redcarpet365, mentioned that the expo will have almost 160 stalls from 14 countries including Asia and Europe. He said the expo will help foreign manufacturer, dealers & suppliers to showcase their products, where Bangladesh Textile Factory Owners & Apparel Exporters can get in touch with them. This exhibition will also focus on the untapped markets that are flexible & important for Bangladesh. Being the second largest apparel exporter in the world, top denim exporter to EU and world's second largest knitwear exporter, Bangladesh Garment & Textile Industry have to face lot of competitions with close competing countries like India, Vietnam, Cambodia & Sri Lanka, he said. Keeping in concern the high demand of "Made in Bangladesh" products, we have to keep this growth in continuation basis and need proper machinery, raw materials, yarn, fabric, dyes & chemicals supplies at best price, said Mr. Imtiaz. September - October 2019
NEWS Besides, the participants will be able to identify business contacts with prospect of entering into subsequent business negotiations, he said. Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association is associate partner of the exhibition and Well Group is the co partner of the expo. This expo is supported by Printing & Printing Equipment Industries Association of China (PEIAC) and China Screen Printing & Graphic Imaging Association (CSGIA), endorsed by Bangladesh Sign Materials and Machineries Importers Association (BSMMIA) & Bangladesh Digital
Printers Owners Association (BDPOA). Ms Fatematuj Johra, Director Marketing - Redcarpet365 Ltd, Md. Moazzem Hossain, Sr. Joint Secretary, BKMEA, Zafar Ahmed, President of BDPOA, H M Imran, president of Bangladesh Sign Materials and Machineries Importers Association (BSMMIA), M. A. Islam Riyad, Editor of Textile Focus also spoke about exhibitions in the press conference. This Expo will be open for general & trade visitors from 10:30 am to 7:30pm every day.
Gaya gets its first Spykar store
Spykar, India's leading fashion denim brand launched its first store in Gaya, second largest city of Bihar. This is the brand's 12th store in the statetaking the total number of outlets in the country to 246. The Spykar store located nearLalKothi Compound welcomesthe city with a stylish wardrobe of premium quality at an attractive price. Mr. Sanjay Vakharia, CEO of Spykar Lifestylessaid, "With the internet penetration growing, consumers are getting more trend-conscious across India.It's an apt opportunity for Spykar to tap the potential of this burgeoning market. The youth of Gaya is fashion-savvy and looking forward to having a brand like Spykar in the vicinity. With the upcoming store in Gaya, we are looking forward to higher engagement with the 'young and restless' audience of this beautiful city up north!" Spykar will continue to tap the potential of the Tier 2 and 3 markets and even penetrate further in India. The launch of the store coincides with the festive season and the brand has an exciting offer for the customers. On the occasion of Diwali, shoppers will get a Soundbar worth Rs. 3000 on shopping of Rs. 5,999 and a Boom Box worth Rs. 4,999 on shopping of R. 11,999 (TnC).
The brand promises to provide fashion lovers a onestop shop with trend-setting denims, trousers, tees, shirts, jackets and accessories like belts, wallets, socks, flip flops and much more. Spykar's collection embodies global inspirations that can match the aspirations of the Indian youth. Spykar is India's leading Jeanswear brand for the youth. Spykar is synonymous with the 'Young & Restless' generation of today. Keeping up with the ever-changing dynamics of the global fashion industry, the collection exudes an individualistic and contemporary style. Established in 1992, Spykar has come a long way and has certainly defined the rules of the fashion arena. From what started as solely a men's denim brand sold at multi-brand outlets, Spykar has expanded its portfolio to become a one stop shop for casual wear ensemble for both men and women - available pan India across 240 exclusive outlets, 900+ multi-brand outlets, all key large format stores and e-commerce portals. Since 2014, Spykar is a part of the Lord Bagri promoted Metdist Group, a diversified portfolio of companies. Headquartered in UK, the Metdist group is a global conglomerate with interests in metal and diverse industries like fashion, hospitality & technology.
Make more people aware of your brand and services September - October 2019
227
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Spykarbrand is 12th store in Bihar and takes the total store count to 246.
NEWS
How to Counter Recession? Find the Up's in the Down's. You can bring the horse to the water, but you cannot make him drink it! This age-old idiom holds true and is the situation in most of the companies when the market is down. The sales persons, of course on the behest of the bosses, run after the customers to make them buy their products. They try the same old tricks which they used when the markets were upbeats. This obviously results in no sale as in down market situation even the customer has different things on his minds. Little do most of sales realize that both situations are totally different and require different tactics all to-gether. The first thing the sales organizations have to realize that the horse might not be ready to drink water at your lake or pond but might be interested to drink at some other small well.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
It's very important and critical to track and find out how customers are reassessing their priorities, reallocating funds, switching brands, and redefining value.Down markets do not mean that the customers have stopped buying all together, it just means that they are buying differently. They might not be ready to do big capital investments (drinking at a big lake) but will certainly buy accessories or other items (drink at a small well). All the sales organizations and persons have to do is to analyze the customer requirements, find out his pain areas in the current situations and offer solutions accordingly. If not then try to be in touch with the customer through various marketing activities, educate the customer about your latest products and make him ready to come to you when the time is right. Here are Six Mantras which can be effectively used to counter the down times during recession. 1. Word of mouth publicity is the best publicity Be in a positive frame of mind and instill the same in everybody around you. Even if there is a small sale celebrate it as a big event so that good vibes are spread amongst employees and also amongst peers in the industry. So, if everybody in the industry does the same, in no time the word of mouth publicity spreads the news making many others to think that good times are around the corner. 228
2. Do not press the panic button Most organizations see the down market as a macrotrend and hit the panic button. The first solution offered to counter the situation is to down size the sales force or other employees in the organization. This is a short time solution because when the market goes up, you will not find proper and trained talent to handle the leads and close the sales. 3. Invest in time properly In good market situations most sales persons complain that they don't have time for anything other than sales calls. Well, downtimes are a boon in disguise. It's the perfect time to attend sharpen the competitive skills and attend those training courses for which they didn't have time before. Its too good a time to make a new marketing strategy which align to attain the new temporary goals 4. Recruit new talent Recession surely depicts a gloomy picture in the market and same is true for job openings. New job positions are very rare and almost nobody is ready to invest in hiring new persons. But contrary to this belief, downtime is the best time to recruit new persons for two major reasons. The new recruits looking for change will never ask for more raise and secondly, they can be trained properly in this situation. Both these factors will make the candidate better equipped to face the situation when the market gets better. 5. Create your own up's market in a down market One of the best ways to lure customers in a down market situation is to give them a new product.A new product launch may actually have greater impact during a recession than at other times. A product that is unique or demonstrably better than others should be able to command a higher price, even among price conscious customers. Competitors will be caught offguard later in countering your new product with their "me-too" offerings. Another way to launch a new product is to offer a scaled down version of your high-end version, thereby making it affordable to the mid-segment customers.
September - October 2019
NEWS 6. Survival of the fittest Companies should prepare now for a possible longterm shift in consumers' values and attitudes.Adapting to new technologies makes sense during down times. Having a new ERP system would surely give you better analysis of the leads in the market. Within few minutes you can find pattern and microtrends of the buying nature of the customers. All you have to do is cater to the new needs of the customers. In these times, customers too, have more spare time to
listen to what you have to offer. It's the best time to educate the customers. Proactive communicationis best the best communication, so start doing it right now. Please contact for more details: Rajesh BalkrishnaPadalkar Principal Owner BLKRSNA Media Events Hospitality E-mail: rajesh.padalkar@blkrsna.com
Intensifying talks with the plastics sector
Intensive discussions at KARL MAYER's stand during K 2019
Along the way to becoming a systems supplier for the production of dry and impregnated non-crimp fabrics, KARL MAYER Technische Textilien was exhibiting for the first time this year at the K 2019 trade fair. This international event is a leading trade fair for specialists involved in the plastics and rubber sectors, and in the production and processing of plastics. It was held recently from 16 to 23 October 2019 in Düsseldorf. The aim of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien's participation in K 2019 on the umbrella stand of Composites Germany was to make new contacts among plastics processors, and the company was far from disappointed. Visitor numbers were especially high over the first three days of the fair.
Traditionally, roughly 70% of the visitors travel to the K fair from abroad. And two-thirds of those visiting KARL MAYER Technische Textilien came from outside Germany, mainly from North America and Asia, primarily from China and India. Many new contacts and a higher profile on the market To arouse the interest of the visitors to the fair, this company was focusing on presenting its innovative SIM.PLY thermoplastic line. This new machine produces premium tapes with precisely aligned, continuous fibres, which are opening up new applications in highly stressed, fibre-reinforced, lightweight structures. Dr. Jürgen Tröltzsch, Senior Manager of New Technologies at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien and his team had many conversations explaining exactly what these applications are. "Our first participation in the fair went extremely well. Interest in our existing machines and the new SIM.PLY line is high," said Dr. Jürgen Tröltzsch on the third day of the fair. The visitors included many new contacts in the plastics sector, i.e. producers and processors of raw materials and semi-finished products, as well as manufacturers of finished plastic components, and the team discussed the next steps towards cooperating with them. Some of them will see the original SIM.PLY over the next few months. Processing trials are also being planned. Several existing customers of KARL MAYER's Warp Knitting Business Unit were also exploring new market opportunities in the composites sector. During these conversations, the textile machinery manufacturer was able to strengthen its reputation as an expert solutions supplier. In addition to networking, the exhibition team effec-
September - October 2019
229
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
KARL MAYER Technische Textilien participated successfully in the K 2019 trade fair, held 1623.10.2019
NEWS tively placed KARL MAYER Technische Textilien on the plastics market as an efficient player in the composites sector. "It is certainly worth us participating in the K trade fair. We have been able to position ourselves well, and have made contact with many people outside our familiar textile sector," said Jochen Schmidt, the Managing Director of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien during the fair. The company's presence was even more important, since many representatives of competing technologies were also among the exhibitors. Turgay Turan, the new Manager of the Automotive Section at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien, emphasised this: "Many companies involved in plastics processing still do not appre-
ciate the advantages of non-crimp fabrics for use in reinforcing composites. There is a huge potential here." The next stages will involve looking strategically at how this potential can be exploited effectively. Presse-Information / Press release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Anfragen / enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel.: 06104/402-274 Fax: 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com
International News ◆ US-China trade talks will resume in two weeks:
Mnuchin US Treasury Secretary Steven Mnuchin said on Monday that he and US Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer would meet with Chinese Vice Premier Liu He for trade talks in two weeks, said Reuters. "It's not next week, but the following week we'll be having those talks," Mnuchin said in an interview with Fox Business Network, adding that the two country's negotiators had made some progress in easing their trade tensions in last week's deputy-level meetings.
Despite notching up dozens of patents over the past five years, China's central bank disclosed little about the technology or design underpinning its coin until Facebook announced plans to launch a new digital currency named Libra last spring, a move that sent shock waves through central banks and financial institutions the world over.
Earlier on Monday Mnuchin had told reporters at the United Nations General Assembly that the trade talks would resume next week.
◆ Canada says officials did not act improperly
◆ China has 'no timetable' for launch of its digital
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
search, testing, trials, assessments and risk prevention," Yi said at a press conference in Beijing. China is the first major economy to explore launching its own digital currency and established a PBo C-backed research institute to study the field in 2016.
currency, says central bank governor China does not have a timetable for the launch of its new digital currency, its central bank governor Yi Gang said on Tuesday, saying more work was needed to address a series of regulatory issues, reported the South China Morning Post. The People's Bank of China (PBoC) said last month the sovereign digital currency was "almost ready", with some media speculating it could be launched as soon as November 11 to coincide with the Singles' Day online shopping festival. But Yi said on Tuesday that the central bank did not "have a timetable". The development of a digital coin required further "re230
when Huawei CFO was arrested There is no evidence Canadian border officials or police acted improperly when Huawei Chief Finance Officer MengWanzhou was detained and arrested at Vancouver's airport nearly 10 months ago, the attorney general of Canada said in a filing released on Monday, reported Reuters. The filing was made available as Meng and her lawyers sought additional disclosures relating to the arrest in British Columbia Supreme Court in Vancouver, including contacts between US and Canadian authorities. The defense claims Meng was unlawfully searched and questioned under the ruse of an immigration check and is seeking to halt extradition proceedings. The disclosure hearing is scheduled through Wednesday this week and to resume on Sept. 30 for another September - October 2019
NEWS five days. Meng's extradition hearing is not scheduled to start until January.
"productive" and that a principal-level trade meeting in Washington would take place in October as previously planned.
◆ China supports enterprises to buy US farm
products China will support enterprises to continue to purchase some US farm products, including soybeans and pork, reported Reuters.
China's Commerce Ministry, in a brief statement, described the talks as "constructive", and said they had also had a good discussion on "detailed arrangements" for the high-level talks in October.
China's Customs Tariff Commission of the State Council will continue to exclude the above agricultural products from the additional tariffs on US goods.
◆ Central bank trims benchmark lending rate,
◆ Qualcomm resumes sales to Huawei
US semiconductor giant Qualcomm Inc. said it resumed selling products to Huawei, though it did not say whether it had received a license to be exempt from an American government ban on sales to the Chinese telecom giant, said Caixin. Qualcomm is also working on solutions that will allow sales to continue in the future, CEO Steve Mollenkopf told us at the company's headquarters Monday. Mollenkopf didn't say what kind of products Qualcomm is selling to Huawei. Since Huawei was placed on the backlist in May, US businesses require a government license to sell products or provide services to the Chinese company. The US has argued that Huawei poses a national security threat due to its alleged close relations with the Chinese government. ¢ China cancels US farm visits Chinese officials unexpectedly canceled a visit to farms in Montana and Nebraska as deputy trade negotiators wrapped up two days of negotiations in Washington, reported Reuters. Chinese officials were expected to visit US farmers next week as a goodwill gesture, but canceled to return to China sooner than originally scheduled, agriculture organizations from Montana and Nebraska said. The United States had removed tariffs overnight from over 400 Chinese products in response to requests from US companies. The US Trade Representative's office issued a brief statement characterizing the two days as September - October 2019
The PBoC on Friday reduced its one-year Loan Prime Rate from 4.25% to 4.20%. The move failed to buoy stocks with the CSI 300 index of Shanghai- and Shenzhen-listed shares edging just 0.2% higher. "The scale of PBoC's easing package was somewhat disappointing to doves," said Mizuho currency strategist Ken Cheung. China introduced the LPR as its main lending rate for businesses in August, in a move designed to make interest rates in the country more market-driven. Bank lending was previously priced on a benchmark set daily by the central bank. The LPR rate is determined on the 20th day of every month. It only applies to newly issued loans. ◆ Shanghai offers cash incentives of up to $8.5
million to lure financial institutions Shanghai is offering cash subsidies of up to $8.46 million to financial institutions that set up branches in the new part of its expanded free-trade zone, Lingang, as the city strives to create a buzzing free-market hub to rival Hong Kong, said the South China Morning Post. The municipality announced on Friday that banks, insurers, brokerages, fund managers, trust firms and financial leasing companies would receive up to RMB 60 million ($8.46 million) worth of subsidies to buy office properties in Lingang. Financial firms renting offices for their Lingang operations will be granted subsidies that cover their first three years of rent. 231
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The development comes after the United States had removed tariffs from over 400 Chinese products in response to requests from US companies.
fails to buoy stocks The People's Bank of China (PBoC), China's central bank, cut a key benchmark lending rate in another tentative sign of monetary easing as the world's second-biggest economy grapples with a slowdown, reported the Financial Times.
NEWS "We think preferential policies are needed to promptly attract a group of financial institutions to land in Lingang," said Wu Wei, a deputy director of the Lingang FTZ administration commission. "We hope financial institutions will play a leading role in developing the zone and supporting business activities." ◆ China's movie business facing mass cull as
money flees Thousands of Chinese film and television production houses face closure as the entertainment industry reels and investors run scared from a government crackdown on certain practices, said the Financial Times. ITjuzi, a Beijing-based research company, said the number of financing and investment deals in the film and television industry had collapsed in the past two years - dropping 43% in 2018 alone - and industry insiders said 2019 was little better. Movie and television producers have been ordered to cap the budget of performers to 40% of production costs, and pay for leading cast members to 70% of total casting budgets. The China Securities Regulatory Commission has also prohibited listed companies from raising money for investing in film or television dramas if they are not related to their core businesses.
ing practices in the financial industry as film-makers are also having to operate in a more restrictive and uncertain creative environment. The result has been a plunge in investment as authorities tighten the screws. ◆ China Sovereign Wealth Fund recorded 2.35%
loss in 2018 China Investment Corp. (CIC), the nation's $941 billion sovereign wealth fund, reported a disappointing investment return for last year amid turbulence in global stock markets, said Caixin. The fund reported a 2.35% loss on overseas investments in 2018, a stark contrast to a 17.5% gain a year earlier. The result still beat a benchmark used by other global sovereign wealth and pension funds by 371 basis points, or 3.71%, CIC said in its annual report. CIC Chairman Peng Chun attributed the decline in returns to the worst performance of global stock markets in a decade. The MSCI World Index plunged 9.4% in 2018. For more information, please contact: Compiled & Sourced by Mr. Arvind Sinha President 2018-2020 Global Textile Welfare Association
Funding inflows have been hit by curbs on risky lend-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Lenzing REFIBRATechnology ups the game of sustainability Lenzing REFIBRA™ Technology ups the game of sustainability with up to 30% in recycled raw material composition to enable more eco-friendly apparel and home textile applications
usage to further drive circular economy in the textile segment. The new offering is now available in the family of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with low fibrillation properties.
◆
Produced in eco-responsible closed-loop production process, the new fibers are 100% biobased, and are produced of wood pulp from sustainably managed forests and an increase of up to 30% of pulp made from upcycled cotton scraps collected from garment manufacturing process. In addition to having low fibrillation and moisture management properties, the fibers also feature enhanced breathability, along with silky smoothness and strength. With the new fiber type, the portfolio of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technology will be expanded to become the ecologically responsible alternative for knitwear, lingerie and
◆
TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technology can now feature up to 30% of pulp made from upcycled cotton scraps collected from garment manufacturing process. Lenzing's family of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technologycan now help to provide even more sustainable fiber options for knits, denim, towels and bed linen.
Lenzing Group (Lenzing) today announced a new milestone for its pioneering REFIBRA™ technology with an increase of up to 30% in recycled raw materials 232
September - October 2019
NEWS towels, in addition to current applications in denim, athleisure wear, apparel and home textiles. "Over the years, we have witnessed a rise in the global demand for more sustainable materials among fashion and home product brands and consumers. Through raising recycled raw material usage to up to 30% in our pioneering REFIBRA™ Technology, we are not only addressing this inevitable trend, but also providing more nature-friendly fiber offerings to brands and consumers as a testament to our commitment to protecting the environment. The higher composition of upcycled cotton in the production of our fibers powered by REFIBRA™ technology gives cotton scraps a second chance and allow apparel or home textile products to be more sustainable. Coupled with a new identification system that allows fibers powered by REFIBRA™ technology to be identified in clothing and textile products, we can provide full transparency of the supply chain for brands and consumers, giving them a seal of confidence that the products are made of sustainable fibers. Moving forward, we will continue to up the game for the innovation of sustainable fibers and pave the way for circular economy in the textile industry ecosystem," said Florian Heubrandner, Vice President of Global Business Management Textiles of Lenzing. With low fibrillation properties, the new fibers are proven to remain smooth and gentle on skin after repeated wash. Like other TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technology, the fibers divert tons of cotton
scraps from entering landfills or incineration by blending up to 30% of pulp made from upcycled cotton scraps collected from the pre-consumer garment manufacturing process. The biobased fibers are also produced with high resource efficiency closed loop production process and low environmental impact, reusing water and solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99.5 %. Moreover, with an innovative special identification technology designed to confirm fiber origin, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technology are identifiable in yarns, fabrics and final garments. This does not only improve supply chain transparency, but also gives fashion brands a seal of confidence that the fibers of their apparel or home textile products are sustainably sourced and produced. Please refer to the Appendix for the list of brands and mills partner which use fibers enabled by REFIBRA™ Technology. More information about TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ Technology can be found here. Images related to the announcement can be downloaded from here. For more information please contact: Angelika Durz Marketing Communications - Lenzing Phone: (43) 664 6112419 Email: An.durz@lenzing.com
Modal & Other Cellulosic (Speciality) Fibers - Opportunities in End Consumer applications with Top Global Brands/Retailers
Mr. Ajay Sardana, (Joint President, Pulp & Fiber Business, Grasim Industries Limited) September - October 2019
Through the last decade, Global Cellulosic Fiber Market has witnessed continuous growth especially viscose which has shown strong growth at 6-7% (>2X overall fiber growth). Based on the superior properties, viscose along with other cellulosic (speciality) fibers like Modal/MicroModal, Dyed, Excel (Lyocell) are expected to emerge as the preferred fiber choices for different end consumer applications including apparels & home textiles. Over the next decade, Global Demand for Viscose fiber is projected to grow faster at 7-8%, while Specialty Fibers like Modal/MicroModal, Dyed, Excel (Lyocell) expected to grow even faster. Some of the key factors which shall drive above growth are rising 233
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Modal & Other Cellulosic (Speciality) Fibers - Opportunities in End Consumer applications
NEWS prosperity, rapid urbanisation, burgeoning middle class and higher disposable income along with consumer preference for soft, comfortable, fashionable & biodegradable products.
cellulosic fibres which couples great consumer & value chain benefits. 'Modal' as defined by The International Bureau for the Standardization of Man Made Fibres (BISFA) is a distinct viscose fibre genre, which has a higher wet modulus and satisfies a minimum value of tenacity in the wet stage at 5% elongation. Birla Modal has twin benefits : superior softness + strength akin to cotton. So, even after repeated washes, fabrics made from this fiber retain their softness without losing its perfectly brilliant sheen, colors as well as soft hand feel. It can be the right blending fiber partner when made with different fibers. The benefit of Birla Modal can also be appreciated when blended with cotton ensuring property benefit of both Modal & Cotton. Both being Cellulosic fibers, processing can be done with much ease. What makes Birla Modal unique? a) Moisture management - Effective moisture management facilitate efficient transport of sweat from the skin to the outside b) Better Fit & Comfort - Garments with Birla Modal provide better body fit c) Brilliant colors with better sheen - For same color depth, Birla Modal requires less quantity of dyes compared to other cellulosic fibers d) Cooling Effect - Fabrics made from Birla Modal are cooler in touch compared to Cotton
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Birla Modal is also available as a finer fiber. It's called Birla MicroModal. Apparels manufactured from Birla MicroModal are lighter, exhibits superior softness and good dimensional stability. It's like the best friend to the skin & finds excellent applications across different end consumer applications:
Discover a Fibre Synonymous with Softness & Comfort Birla Modal is a premium specialty fiber that offers superior softness. With its sheen, smoothness & breathability, it's one of the most recommended fibers by the top brands & retailers globally. It's a nature based fiber made from wood sourced from Canadian Birchwood trees. Birla Modal is the second generation in man-made 234
September - October 2019
NEWS Birla Modal with Cotton (with/without Elastane) - T- Shirts/tops ◆ Men - Birla Modal with Cotton ◆ Women - 100% Birla MicroModal, Birla Modal with/without Elastane - Kidswear ◆ 100% Birla Modal, Cotton Modal, Birla Modal with Elastane b. Woven apparels: - Women Tops/Ethnic Kurtis ◆ 100% Birla Modal, Birla Modal with Cotton - Formal/causal shirts ◆ Birla Modal with Cotton - Formal/casual trousers/blazers/suits ◆ Polyester Modal Elastane
a. Knitted apparels: - Premium Intimate wear ◆ Men (briefs/trunks/vests) - Birla MicroModal with Elastane, Cotton Modal Elastane, Cotton Modal ◆ Women (panties/bra/camisole) - Birla MicroModal with Elastane, Cotton Modal, Cotton Modal Elastane - Knitted tights/leggings ◆ Women - 100% Birla Modal, Birla MicroModal&
c. Home textiles: - Towels ◆ Cotton with Modal in Pile - Bed linen/Duvet covers ◆ Cotton Modal, Polyester Modal d. Sarees: - Silk Modal, Cupro Modal, VFY Modal blends Link: https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ywmp6pc5k/
SpykarVintage & Rare campaign witnessed a whopping reachof over 125 mn
Just as spirit tastes better with age, so is true for denims. The older the denim, more the character. Spykar's Vintage & Rare collection jeans are pre-aged 18 years using authentic treatments and various wet & dry processes to help achieve the distressed, mended, September - October 2019
235
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
India's leading fashion denim brand Spykar launched their latest campaign VintageandRare to introduce the limited edition Vintage & Rare Collection of denims that are inspired by aged whiskey.
NEWS long preserved vintage look. These jeans are handcrafted by skilled artisans and are made with ecoethical practices. Spykar's Vintage Jeans are a blend of Vintage Vibes with Contemporary cuts for young men.
revealed. On the day of the launch, the celebrities unboxed the specially curated wooden cask and introduced the Vintage and Rare limited edition denims. Here, the celebrities have shared their personal experiences and stories about being 18.
Buyers get a complete experience of great crafted denim with a choice of preserving it in a specially designed wooden cask.
The next phase of this campaign included India's top fashion bloggers promoting the limited edition Vintage & Rare Jeans on their Instagram handles through posts and insta-stories. The overall media mix helped create an impactful buzz.
The VintageandRare campaign was a great media mix of traditional and new age media - hoardings, airport branding, print, radio, all of the digital amplification by Celebrities and fashion bloggers on their social media handles,a collaboration with leading news app Inshorts which garnered an effective reach of (xx) plus across the country. India's leading RJ, Mallishka and her counterparts were been on-boarded to spread the word. Spykar roped in celebrities that included leading bollywood actor Rajkummar Rao, MTV youth icon RannvijaySingha, and sports sensations like Sunil Chhetri&Gurpreet Singh who unboxed the Vintage & Rare Limited Edition Collection denims on their respective social handles.
SaiSangeetaIsrani, GM Marketing, Spykar Lifestyle said, " The campaign story was weaved around the concept 'Born 18' to highlight the importance of being 18.One doesn't have to wait 18 years to get into a pair to kindle or re-kindle your 18-years-old spirit. Our creative expression for this is - Born 18. This Vintage & Rare Limited Edition Collection of denims have been aged to look 18-years-old. An interesting product, with an interesting packaging and an interesting unveiling has been well received by the fans. A perfect blend of artistry and fine craftsmanship, the Vintage and Rare collection is another feather on cap for Spykar's forte in product innovation."
The celebrities gave a sneak peak of the wooden cask packaging on their Instagram stories. After much buildup, the contents of the wooden casks were finally
The campaign has received an overwhelming response, triggering exciting conversation and amazing traction for the brand.
SVITT organized Mill Visits INDUSTRIAL VISIT REPORT SURENDRA TEXTILE
passage and working of direct warping and sizing machines.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
PREM TEXTILES IINTERNATIONAL PVT. LTD., Khargone A Group photo of faculty and students along with MD and GM (Tech) of Prem Textiles International Pvt. Ltd.
SVITT, SVVV organized Mill Visit for 2nd year students of B. Tech Textile Engineering at M/S Surendra Textiles,Indore. Total 49students and two faculty member Prof.Tanveer Malik and Prof. Sushanta Naik had visited the company on 25.09.2019. During that visit, Mr. Subhash Yadav,In-charge, Surendra Textiles explained the students about the Warp 236
September - October 2019
NEWS Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, SVVV, Indore has organized one day Industrial Mill visit at Prem Textiles International Pvt. Ltd, Barwaha, Khargone on 28th Sep 2019 for B.Tech 2nd year textile engineering students. Prof. Pavan Kr. Gupta and Prof. Rajesh T. Dhore visited the above spinning industry along with 44 students to see actual shop floor
working in the mill. Students learnt different sections of yarn production in a spinning industry as well as role of different section in preparation of good quality yarn. Mr. Karan Jain, Managing Director and Mr. Akhilesh Pandey, General Manager (Tech) guided the students during said visit.
TMMA elected New Office Bearers Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (TMMA) elected following new Office Bearers for the period 2019-2020 during their 59th Annual General Meeting held on Friday, 27th September, 2019 at Hotel Trident, Mumbai.
Fortune 500 TATA Group Company. Today he serves on important positions in local as well as national organizations & associations related to his vast industry experience & business fields along with a very active role in NGO's and local Chambers of Commerce & Industries. Mr. Vallabh is a keen follower of industry movements especially related to textiles & agriculture.His hobbies include helping local engineering & business education institutes to provide in-depth information & exposure to wide variety of opportunities in Textiles & Agriculture.
Mr. Vallabh S. Thumar, Chairman & Managing Director of Weavetech Engineers Ltd., Surat has been elected as the Chairman of Textile Machinery Manufacturer's Association (India) (TMMA) for the year 2019-2020. He has been the Member of its Executive Council since 2008-2009.
MR. PRATIK R. BACHKANIWALA FIRST VICE-CHAIRMAN
Mr. Vallabh Thumar, a Mechanical Engineer by profession, is the founder of Alidhra Weavetech Group of Companies and has over 40 years of rich and diverse experience practicing Entrepreneurship in the fields of Textiles, Engineering, Pharmaceuticals, Real-Estate, Infrastructure as well as Agriculture.
Mr. Pratik RajnikantBachkaniwala, Managing Director, PalodHimson Machines Pvt. Ltd., Surat has been elected as the First Vice-Chairman of Textile Machinery Manufacturer's Association (India) (TMMA) for the year 2019-2020. He has been the Member of its Executive Council since 2009-2010.
Among his many startups, Weavetech Engineers Limited, a company dedicated to manufacturing textile machineries has moved on to become the top most Textile Engineering companies in its respective field in India.
Mr. Pratik is the third generation entrepreneur and a family member of the Surat based Himson group.
Prior to his entrepreneurial journey, Mr. VallabhThumar has served on important posts of TATA Chemicals, a September - October 2019
Mr. Pratik is a Commerce Graduate from Sydenham college of Commerce and Economics, Mumbai in the year 2001. After graduation, he had opted for a Post Graduate Diploma course at Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India, Ahmedabad. His course 237
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
MR. VALLABH S. THUMAR CHAIRMAN
NEWS there was PGD in business and Entrepreneurship management with a specialization in Family Business Management. Before becoming the whole time Director at various group companies at Himson, he had taken work experience for purchase & vendor development, production planning and marketing & customer services from 2002 to 2004. He has been managing 3 units of the group independently since 2004. Mr. Pratik had been instrumental in acquisition of two companies which are now part of the Himson group portfolio. Mr. Pratik has traveled extensively for business and is associated with European and Chinese companies at various levels.
Mr. Pratik has been a sports house captain in school and has represented his school in basketball at All India Inter Public School conferences for 2 years. He also plays tennis regularly.
of Yamuna Machine Works Ltd., which produces entire range of Processing and Finishing Machinery. Established in 1990, "YAMUNA" has ranked among the leading manufacturers of machinery for textile processing, finishing and associated branches of industries. The Company has sales and after sales service branches all over India with headquarters at Mumbai. With back up of excellent sales services network, marketing with technical know-how ensures satisfactory techno-commercial services. This has enabled "YAMUNA" to build excellent reputation within the industry in short time, which is reflected in their ongoing relationship with customers whose satisfaction has generated high level of repeated orders. Yamuna's wide range of products is specially designed for the global market. They specialize in Hot Air Stenters, Hydraulic jiggers, singeing machine, coating plants, Denim Finishing Plants, After printing dryers, Carpet Back coating lines, Special machines for technical textiles and various dryers and special machines for non-wovens.
Mr. Pratik is the Vice Chairman of Textile Association of India - South Gujarat unit. He is also a Steering committee member of India-ITME society.
MR. SHAILESH WANI HONORARY TREASURER
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
MR. PRASHANT MANGUKIA SECOND VICE-CHAIRMAN
Mr. PrashantMangukia, Director, Yamuna Machine Works Ltd., Vapi has been elected as the Second ViceChairman of the Textile Machinery Manufacturer's Association (India) (TMMA) for the year 2019-2020. He has been the Member of its Executive Council since 2011-2012. Mr. PrashantMangukia is Master of Science in Industrial and Systems Engineering with an undergraduate degree in Chemical Engineering. He is the Director 238
Mr. ShaileshWani, Managing Director, Stovec Industries Ltd., Ahmedabad has been elected as the Honorary Treasurer of Textile Machinery Manufacturer's Association (India) (TMMA) for the year 2019-2020. He has been the Member of its Executive Council from 2015-2016. Mr. Wani is a Bachelor in Engineering (VJTI Mumbai). He studied his management (Executive MBA - MPT) from IIM Bangalore and is also a Post-Graduate in Cost Accountancy (ICWA). Mr.Wani joined Stovec as its Managing Director in 2013. Stovec Industries Ltd is a subsidiary company of SPGPrints B.V. The Netherlands. Stovec is a technolSeptember - October 2019
NEWS ogy and market leader in Rotary Screen Printing Industry in India. Stovec offers complete programs for Penta Screens, Standard Screens, Penta Screens, Lacquers, Auxiliary Chemicals and Rotary Printing Machines that enables highest quality results in Textile Printing. Prior to joining Stovec, Mr. Wani was working with Thermax SPX Energy Technologies Ltd., as Chief Executive Officer in 2010-2013. This Company was a Joint Venture Company of Thermax Ltd., India & SPX Corporation, USA.
Earlier, MrWani have held various positions with Thermax Limited between 1998 & 2010. The last position was Head - Global Marketing & Sales, ACD, Thermax. Mr. Wani also had the Professional Memberships of Indian Society of Heating, Refrigeration &Airconditioning Engineers - as the Member & Governing Council Member from 2004 to 2009, Refrigeration & Air-conditioning Manufacturers Association and All India Association as a member for the year 200910.
Yarn and Fabric production followed a downward trend in 2018 and increased in Q1/2019 Global yarn production increased by +17% between Q4/18 and Q1/19. Higher output levels where observed in Asia (+18%), Brazil (+18%), the U.S.A. (+3.2%) and Europe (+1.6%). The overall Asian result is due to a +27% increase in Chinese yarn production which outperformed the contraction registered in Japan (1.7%), India (-3.1%) and Korea, Rep. (-9.2%). A decreasing trend has further been observed in South Africa (-5.3%) and Egypt (-7.9%). Forecasts for Q2/ 19 are optimistic in Japan, Chinese Taipei, and Turkey. Global yarn stocks increased by +6.3% worldwide. This results from a +27% improvement in Egypt, +7.7% raise in Brazil, and +3.8% increase in Asia. The latter is the consequence of stock growth in Japan and India, stability in Pakistan and decrease in Korea, Rep. and Chinese Taipei. Altogether, yarn stocks reached 97% of their previous year's level for the same quarter. Global yarn orders increased by +12, led by Brazil (+18%), Egypt (+11%), and Asia (+9%). Global fabric production increased between Q4/18 to
Q1/19 by +3.8%. This reflects an output raise of +19% in Brazil and an overall +3.6% improvement in Asian countries. Europe saw its production shrink by -0.85% with the biggest drop registered in Spain (-10.1%). A strong decrease of -42% was also witnessed in Egyptian fabric production. The world output level now reaches 88% of its Q1/18 level. Output levels are expected to further decrease in Q2/19 in Asia, Africa, and Brazil, stay constant in the U.S.A. and increase in Europe. Production should stagnate in Q3/19 in all regions but Asia, which should register an improvement. The global fabric stock level has stagnated between Q4/18 and Q1/19. This resulted from raises registered in Egypt (+16%) and Brazil (+3.3%) and decreases of -1% to -2% observed in Asia, Europe and the U.S.A. In Q1/19, global fabrics stocks were 1% above their Q1/18 level. Global fabric orders have dropped by -19% in Q1/19, led by a decrease of -32% in Egypt and -25% in Brazil. Global fabric orders were 8% above their Q1/18 level.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
LIVA launches AUTUMN WINTER 20/21 trends LIVA, the ingredient brand from the house of Aditya Birla Group, launched Autumn Winter 20/21 trends at their Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) Studio in Noida on 19th September, 2019. The launch event was actively supported by NAEC (Noida Apparel Export Cluster). The trends received an overwhelmingly positive response from the 100+ buyers that visited the Studio during the three-day activity. Some of the major buySeptember - October 2019
239
NEWS ers included ZARA, VARNER, Carrefour Global Sourcing, Impulse, BEST SELLER, MADAME, JC PENNY, BENETTON, NEXT Sourcing, Vamani Overseas, Radnik Exports, Triburg, Century Overseas, and RachitApprels.
Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) Studio is a hitech studio with more than 2000 fabric sorts of Viscose, Modal and Excel on display with detailed technocommercial specifications. It's a platform that showcases fabric development by over 100 LAPF partners.
In addition to the seasonal collection, the studio also showcased over 250 new arrivals from the 40+ LAPF Partners. Visiting buyers appreciated the new fabrics developed by the partners.
For more details, please contact: MsGreeshmaNachane White Marque Solutions 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza, Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West), Mumbai - 400053 Tel.: 022-26335094-98, M.: +91 9920959673 E-mail: greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com
With more than 700 swatches being given away for buyer's immediate reference, desired yardages are in the process of being arranged for partners to make proto garment.
Liva launches its new campaign LiveYourFlow It's the first-ever campaign by the brand which will take the digital-first route
evolved our marketing strategy to reach out to the customer more effectively," she added.
Liva, the ingredient brand from the house of Aditya Birla Group, launched its latest campaign #LiveYourFlow which features Bollywood Superstar Kangana Ranaut. This is the first-time that the brand has taken a unique route of releasing the campaign first on digital platforms including social media.
With the digital space booming, Liva is one of the few brands which are leveraging this platform by employing a different dissemination strategy for the ad film;where it is released digitally first and other mediums will then follow.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The ad film shows a graceful Kangana adorning the fluid Liva fabric which lets her breathe, glide, and flow. The background music and the perfectly synchronized ballet dancers very aptly communicate the essence of the product, i.e. 'natural fluid fashion'.It goes on to introduce the campaign title, #LiveYourFlow by choosing the Liva tag across leading brands.
#LiveYourFlow-Liva02
"It was a strategic decision to the digital-first route," said SrishtiSawhney, President and Global Brand Head, Grasim Industries, Pulp &Fibre Business. "Liva, being a new age natural fabric brand has always taken initiatives to connect with the end consumer in innovative and creative ways.
The digital film is designed to showcase not just the USP of the product, which is natural fluid fashion, but also the emotion it imbibes in the consumer who is wearing the garment. #LiveYourFlow, the campaign title gets across the feeling of being unrestrained and free to do one's own thing. It connotes a positive and energized state of mind where one is open to possibilities.Liva celebrates the unrestrained and unhindered spirit of the consumers by providing them with a breathable, fluid fabric. Link: https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ywmp6pc5k/
There is a huge attitudinal and behavioral shift in consumption towards digital media. Therefore we too have 240
September - October 2019
NEWS
LIVA showcases women's lounge wear and menswear application at Yarnex Liva, an ingredient brand from the house of Aditya Birla Group, participated in Yarnex at Tirupur. The focus of the show was to highlight Liva's application in lounge wear, camisoles, leggings, men's briefs and vests. Liva and its esteemed partner brands Krishna Textile Processes, Matrix Enterprises, EXIM Knits, Mercury Fabrics, Feathersoft, Jeyavishnu Clothing, Mevaba received an overwhelmingly positive response at the exhibition. Yarnex event is a big draw for manufacturers and suppliers of fibres and yarns; both from India and overseas. It is a major platform where innovations are unfurled and new products are launched. The exhibition received an overwhelming response with largescale leads generated. About LIVA: Liva is a new-age fabric from Aditya Birla Group. Unlike other fabricsthat are boxy or synthetic, Liva is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through accredited value chain. The new-age, naturally sourced fiber made
into fabric in pure or blended form, transforms not just the garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly. About Birla Cellulose: Birla Cellulose represents the Pulp and Fiber business of Aditya Birla Group, is India's pioneer in Viscose Staple Fiber (VSF). Birla Cellulose Fibers are of 100% natural origin, highly absorbent, have an especially good feel, and are completely biodegradable. As an extremely versatile and easily blendable fiber, VSF is widely used in apparels, home textiles, dress material, knitted wear and non-woven applications. Birla Cellulose commands a major worldmarketshare in the man-made cellulose Fiber domain. For Further details, contact: ◆ Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com ◆ Andrea Joseph: andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com ◆ GreeshmaNachane: greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com
The United Nations in the year 2015 came up with 17 Sustainable Development Goals as a standard which each country had to achieve by the year 2030 in order to bring about their overall development. Amongst the various important topics which were so discussed, reduction in actions for Climate Change, access to clean water and Sanitation, and responsible consumption and production to reduce the impact on environment are the ones which are stressed upon tremendously, where the global corporate community need to take a lead in order to achieve the Sustainable Development. LivaEco Booth Premier Vision
Liva BoothIntertextile September - October 2019
Experimentation with fashion by the consumers and rapid growth of fast fashion has correspondingly lead to thousands of tons of fabrics, clothes, & other materials finding their way to the dumpster every day. The Textile industry is discredited for being one of the most polluting industry globally and the consumers of textile goods are conscious and increasingly concerned 241
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
LIVAEco: One of the most sustainable textile fibre from Birla Cellulose
NEWS about the sustainability related aspects of the products that they chose to wear. Birla Cellulose, the Pulp and Fibre Business of the Aditya Birla Group in cooperation with its value chain partners is fully engaged in the implementation of actions that are needed to achieve the Sustainable Development Goals. Birla Cellulose has inculcated this ideology of sustainability at the core of our business strategy focussing on actions that create positive impact on the people and the planet. In furtherance of the aforementioned cause, the company in the year 2019 launched LIVAEco, a soft, breathable, and fluid fabric which is manufactured with an objective of delivering a product with unmatched sustainability such as sustainable forestry, manufactured with benchmark resource efficiency using closed loop production systems, lower water footprint, lower GHG emissions and complete traceability of the value chain. LIVAEco is made from fully renewable natural raw materials sourced from sustainable forestry certified by the Forest Stewardship Council, a premier NGO which works towards the conservation of trees. The production of the said fibre is done using highly efficient closed loop production process that help recover and reuse chemicals and water used in the process. LIVAEco saves up to 900 liters of water and reduces 300g of CO2 per garment. In addition, the production process has a mechanism which ensures traceability of the product, which enables the consumer to know where the fibre was produced. Viscose being fully biodegradable finds the perfect answer to the problem of ending up as a waste in landfills or contaminate soil and aquatic bodies.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The Aditya Birla Group, realizes the responsibility of the textile industry in satisfying the needs of the cus-
tomers related to products functional attributes and also address the concerns on being environment friendly at the same time. It has been forever a challenging task for companies to fuse sustainable solutions in a fabric preferred by the customer and we have finally been able to find a solution to the same. The launch of LIVAEco has been accepted gracefully in India as it promoted the concerns of the environmentally-conscious people. The next step was to take Livaeco in markets outside of India. Intertextile/ Yarn Expo offered the best platform to launch Livaeco in China. China by virtue of being the largest producer and exporter of textile into the world, has to play a leading role in improving the environmental footprint and enhance it's long term sustainability. "Chinese Textile industry, being the global manufacturing hub, has come into serious spotlight for the impact created by it on the environment. Birla Cellulose has prioritized the launch of LIVAEco in China in collaboration with our value chain partners to support this cause by starting the manufacturing of this product at its plant at Birla Jingweifibre Company Limited, in order to create a greater and broader positive impact on the environment", said Mr. Dilip Gaur - Managing Director Grasim Industries Ltd. Livaeco was also presented in Premiere Vison Paris Sept 2019 edition. Brands have shown where brands have shown immense interest and have appreciated its sustainability credentials. LIVAEco through its world class quality, will show the world a place where fashion and eco- friendliness would go hand-in-hand would simultaneously also enable the customers to be a part of this global initiative.
Order Intake for Major Project from Egypt Booked Sales expected to be realized in financial years 2020/ 2021 At ITMA 2019, the Rieter Group signed contracts for seven projects with Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), for a total volume of around 180 million Swiss francs.
receipt of the down payment on October 7, 2019; sales are expected to be realized in financial years 2020/ 2021. The order includes deliveries of compact and ring spinning systems and is part of a comprehensive modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry.
The order intake for the first six projects in the amount of around 165 million Swiss francs was booked upon
For further information please contact: Rieter Holding Ltd.
242
September - October 2019
NEWS Investor Relations Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.comRieter Management Ltd. Rieter Management Ltd.
Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com
80% reduction in filling time for dyeing machines withTeraFlowHyP systems! Background Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited is a textile processing house based in Tirupur, India. It currently has a setup of 14 dyeing machines, the largest being an 1800 kg soft flow machine and smallest being a 250 kg machine. These machines require large quantities of hot and cold water during initial filling and subsequent cycles.
The pumping system used by Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited to supply hot and cold water into the 14 dyeing machines was resulting in filling times of between 8 to 20 minutes. Based on the available capacity of pumps, Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited believed that this was the best possible performance. A study conducted by the A.T.E. team highlighted that while the pumps selected were good, they were not operating according to the logic of production demand resulting in sub-optimal performance.
2GP-EVM
Challenges Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited had designed a filling system with multiple pumps, which was functional but posed challenges during the initial filling. They were never able to fill all machines simultaneously. To overcome this, the dyeing machines were staggered to work as per the pumps' capacities. They had also not explored options to reduce filling time. This effectively meant that the mill could not optimise production from these dyeing machines. September - October 2019
TeraFlowHyP systems are always tailored to user requirements. They are made up of centrifugal horizontal or vertical pumps, pump logic controllers, and a diaphragm tank which respond to any change in pressure thereby ensuring a constant flow to the desired process or processes.At Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited, since the dyeing machines are of different capacities, the demand for water varies. It is difficult to forecast a typical consumption pattern. Hence the system needs to be robust enough to manage variations in demand without adversely impacting the performance or the life of the pumps. Result The TeraFlowHyP systems resulted in a reduction in the filling time per cycle by almost 80%. The filling time in first fill was reduced by more than 10 minutes. That is not all, the TeraFlowHyP systems offer some additional benefits as well â—† Reduction in filling time per cycle results in more number of cycles per day 243
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The solution As recommended by A.T.E., Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited installed two TeraFlow hydro-pneumatic (HyP) systems each with a flow rate of 180 mÂł/hr.
NEWS ◆
◆ ◆
Variable Frequency Drives (VFDs) ensure maximum power saving and minimum wear and tear of pumps leading to longer pump life Automatic pump switch Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited is naturally quite pleased with the performance of A.T.E.'s TeraFlowHyP systems.
Mr.Balamurugan, Plant - General Manager, Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited says, "A.T.E. made it simple - We are quite happy replacing our old filling system with .A.T.E.'s TeraFlow hydro
pneumatic pressure boosting solution for tank filling application in the dyeing process. The old system posed challenges during the initial tank filling and also could not meet demand-supply equation resulting in sub-optimal performance. A.T.E. TeraFlowHyP systems helped to meet demand-supply equation and reduced the filling time per cycle by almost 80%, reducing the filling time by more than 10 minutes and ensuring a constant flow throughout process. Performance of A.T.E.'s TeraFlowHyP systems and prompt after sales services is satisfactory.
Rieter Business Group at ShanghaiTex 2019 Bräcker presents a new traveller with up to 50% longer lifetime and shorter running-in period. This is only one highlight out of the impressing product variety.
See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Bräcker: Visit us at ShanghaiTex from November 25 to 28, 2019, in the New International Expo Centre: Hall E1, Booth A30. Detailed information on Bräcker's innovations and access for downloading the images are available online at www.bracker.ch/news/.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
The new CARBO traveller from Bräcker offers up to 50% longer lifetime
Graf introduces at ShanghaiTex three novelties for the textile market: a new card clothing with up to 30% longer lifetime, a height adjustable comb and a helpful solution for card clothing management.
A novelty Bräcker shows at ShanghaiTex is the new CARBO traveller for ring spinning machines. It is specially designed for man-made fiber spinners. CARBO is a new coating technology which improves the sliding properties. This results in up to 50% longer lifetime and a shorter running-in period. Recommended applications next to man-made fibers are also their blends, core yarns and all yarn counts. In addition, Bräcker exhibits its well-known portfolio of high-quality products which meets the continually rising demands on the textile market like higher speeds and productivity. The rings and travellers offer long service lives, lowest yarn breaks and no thermal damages when processing man-made fibers. 244
The MULTISHARP resistant alloy increases the lifetime of metallic card clothings on the cylinder by up to 30%.
MULTISHARP, the unique wear resistant alloy for card clothings, increases the lifetime of metallic card September - October 2019
NEWS clothings on the cylinder by up to 30%. Additionally, the work load of the maintenance team can be minimized by providing longer service cycles and less unplanned downtimes. The yield on raw material can be increased without compromising the quality requirements - thanks to the continuous height adjustability of the new combs series. The continuous and exact gap setting between nipper and circular comb on each individual combing head provides customers a new level on raw material utilization. Additionally, the maintenance people will appreciate the comfortable and easy installation of the circular comb. With the card clothing management the overall investment costs can be reduced. This is based on minimizing the operational expenses including optimizing the overall equipment effectiveness. Graf's card clothing management prolongs the lifetime of flexible flats by up to three times without comprising on the quality parameters throughout the entire life cycle. See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Graf. Visit us at ShanghaiTex from November 25 to 28, 2019: Hall E1, Booth A30 with focus on spinning and Booth C35 with focus on nonwoven.
cant reductions in maintenance costs. That is based on a lower ends down rate after doffing and minimized cleaning of the underwinding area. Novibra's goal is to bring beneficial and customized solutions to the customers helping them to keep their leading position in the market. Novibra is looking forward to discussing the new products that fulfil one of today's biggest demands for energy savings and maintenance costs reduction. See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Novibra. Visit us at ShanghaiTex from November 25 to 28, 2019: Hall E1, Booth A30. Detailed information on Novibras's innovations and access for downloading the images are available online at www.novibra.com/news/.
At ShanghaiTex SSM presents solutions for precision package winding and high package consistency and provides a wide range of renowned textile machines.
Detailed information on Graf's innovations and access for downloading the images are available online at www.graf-companies.com/news/.
XENO equipped with powerbladeTM and preciforceTM
Energy saving spindle LENA
The new generation of clamping crowns CROCOdoff and CROCOdoff Forte introduce genuine doffing without underwinding. The crowns work automatically depending on the spindle speed. The major advantages are signifi-
September - October 2019
SSM enables yarn dyers to be successful - with the precision package winder PWX. Only a quick response to market trends in combination with high cost-efficiency enables customers to be competitive. The winder offers clear benefits to dye package winding and rewinding of filament and staple fiber yarns, with or 245
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Precision package winder PWX-MTC
Novibra presents the latest innovations in spindle technology and energy saving measures at the forthcoming ShanghaiTex. The energy saving spindle LENA has been designed for the highest speeds and lower energy consumption. It is the only spindle in the market with 17.5 mm wharve diameter and energy savings in the average of up to 6%.
NEWS without lubrication. For the XENO-platform SSM presents the first and only self-regulating backpressure system in the world: preciforce™ for a guaranteed package consistency. Furthermore, the next generation of the blade winding powerblade™ will be introduced for the XENO-platform. Besides the displayed applications, SSM provides a wide range of renowned textile machines.
See for yourself the many advantages on offer from SSM. Visit us at ShanghaiTex from November 25 to 28, 2019: Hall E1, Booth A30. Detailed information on SSM's innovations and access for downloading the images are available online at www.ssm.ch/eng/news--events_31340.shtml.
Suessen presents the new compacting devices for high flexibility, newweighting arms and premium rotor spinning components for excellent yarnquality.
COMPACTeasy is the new mechanical compacting device available as a plugon/plug-off unit for any ring spinning machine type and suitable for most commonapplications like cotton, man-made fibers and blends. COMPACTeasy is thesolution in compacting without additional energy requirement. New EliTe is a versatile compact-spinning system with new innovativecomponents. The customers profit from higher productivity, better quality andlower operational costs. Upgrade packages and spare parts packages enable thecustomers to benefit also on existing installations. The new Top Weighting Arm HP 4080 for roving frames offers a new design foreasy settings and improved stability. In addition, consistent yarn quality over thelifetime is guaranteed. Regarding premium parts the new SOLIDRING B 188 for rotor spinning machinesoffers a shorter and more aggressive saber tooth shape for better fiber openingand finally improved yarn quality. For semi-automated rotor spinning machines anew rotor cup design and fluted and spiral navels improve the yarn quality andenhance the spinnability of low grade cotton. See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Suessen. Visit us atShanghaiTex from November 25 to 28, 2019, in the New International Expo Centre:Hall E1, Booth A30. Detailed information on Suessen's innovations and access for downloading theimages are available online at www.suessen.com/news/.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
COMPACTeasy is a compactingdevice
For further information please contact: Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Business Group Components SilvanoRufo Head Marketing T +41 52 208 82 22 silvano.rufo@rieter.com www.rieter.com
The SOLIDRING B 188 for rotor spinning machines 246
September - October 2019
NEWS
- The Biggest International Textile Sourcing Show of South Asia
◆
Featuring over 200+ Suppliers from over 12+ countries/regions ◆ 100+ Indian Textile companies to exhibit with the latest product offerings ◆ Indian Textile Pavilions organised by FIEO, TEXPROCIL & CHEMEXCIL ◆ Smart Textiles Showcase by Korea, Taiwan and Indonesia ◆ Cotton USA as our Innovation Partner to launch its presence in Sri Lanka Intex South Asia - The most influential and established textiles sourcing show in its 5th edition will take place at BMICH, Colombo, from 13-15 November 2019. This global trading platform for the textiles and apparel industry is endorsed and supported by major industry associations, chambers of commerce and government agencies from Sri Lanka, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Taiwan, Malaysia, and other countries. The 5th edition will witnessed 200+ quality suppliers from 12 countries and regions showcasing top quality yarns, apparel fabrics, denim fabrics, chemicals, clothing accessories and allied services. The Indian Pavilions at Intex South Asia will be organised by The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO) and Basic Chemicals, Cosmetics & Dyes Export Promotion Council (CHEMEXCIL) under Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. Also, Taiwan Textile Federation, KOTRA Colombo and The Indonesian Embassy in Sri Lanka will be organising Smart Textiles Showcase Pavilions respectively at this edition. The participation from India has grown by 30% from last year making it the largest country pavilion with over 100 Indian companies that would exhibit with their latest product offerings to connect with the leading buyers from Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, India and other international markets. This year, we would be introducing "Indian Textile Dyes & Chemicals Zone" which would be represented by leading textile chemicals, dyes intermediates, pigments and auxiliaries companies. With the growth of textile dyes and chemicals imports to Sri Lanka, Indian companies September - October 2019
under this zone would find it fruitful to connect with their Sri Lankan counterparts to explore business opportunities. With the inclusion of this pavilion, Intex South Asia has successfully integrated the textile value chain at a single global trading platform. Some of the top companies participating include five time exhibitor PT Sinar Para Taruna from Indonesia along with PT Kewalram International; Grasim Industries (Liva), Sangam Ltd., Birla Century, GarwareBestretch Ltd. from India; PAK Denim Ltd. and MN Textiles from Pakistan, and Eco Transfer Prints and Sigiri Weaving Mills Pvt. Ltd. from Sri Lanka and Yetom New Materials and PHK Knitting from China. Also, from the buyers side, Intex South Asia is inviting delegations from India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Thailand, Middle-east, Nigeria, Mauritius and more make it a truly global sourcing platform of South Asia. For the first time, world renowned organisation - Cotton Council International (CCI), the National Cotton Council's export promotion arm that promotes U.S. cotton in more than 50 countries under its COTTON USA™ trademark, will partner with Intex South Asia as its Innovation Partner. This marks entry of Cotton USA in Sri Lanka. Cotton USA will showcase the latest innovations for would be beneficial for the growth and development of textile and apparel industry of our region. Alongside the exhibition, The Interactive Business Forum (IBF) will deliver high quality market intelligence to support industry efforts to upgrade, move up the value chain and better understand intra-regional trade to help manufacturers gain a competitive edge. Like last year, Intex South Asia's 'Interactive Business Forum' will also feature seminars/workshops covering a range of topics including the latest trends, market developments and technological advances in the industry enabling all to access current global market intelligence.Ms.ArtiBhagat, Director, Worldex India, said, "There is a clear shift from the west to the east. While the western economies are slowing down, the economies of South Asia are among the fastest growing in the world. Industry and businesses are coming to this region and Intex South Asia is there to speed up this process while ensuring that genuine buyers from around the world meet with quality suppliers at the only international textiles sourcing show of South Asia." Therefore, Intex South Asia is the perfect platform to take the industry forward. Come and Explore Business Opportunities @ Intex South Asia in Sri Lanka. For more information,Media Contact: Ms. Alfiya Chowdhary Mobile: +91 9892966292 E-mail: alfiya.intexfair@worldexindia.com 247
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Stage is set for the 5th edition of Intex South Asia
FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA
ABROAD
3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition (ITMACH) Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawala Mobile : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401 E-mail : info.itmach.com / amey@itmach.com
19th International Exhibition on Textile Industry Date : 25th to 28th November, 2019 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre Website : www.shanghaitex.cn
7th China Homelife India & China Machinex India 2019 Date : 11th to 13th December, 2019 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai Contact : Ms. DevishaPatra, Relationship Manager MCO-Winmark Exhibitions Private Limited B-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency - 1 Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn., Santacruz (W), Mumbai - 400 054 India Mobile : 9820660107, 9869150231 E-mail : devisha.winmark@gmail.com,
International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition (ITME AFRICA) Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020 Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Contact : India ITME Society 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834 Fax : 022-2285 1578, Mobile: 7303456667 E-mail : itme@india-itme.com, itme@itme-africa.com Website : itme-africa.com
Attention All TAI Members
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
THE TEXTILE ASSOCIA TION (INDIA) ASSOCIATION Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our mailer data taicht@gmail.com
Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. 248
September - October 2019