e-journal - May-Jun '19 by TheTextile Association (India)

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Improving Productivity of Winding by Optimization of Splicing Parameter Sujit Gulhane*, Pratik Shirsath, Prafull Kolte & Madhuri Kakde Center for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS Abstract Worldwide 75% of all staple fiber yarns are produced in ring spinning mills. In the winding process, ring bobbins are converted into larger packages suitable for subsequent processes such as Weaving, Knitting or Yarn Dyeing. During the winding process, the yarn is passed through optical yarn clearers to remove all objectionable faults. After removing objectionable faults, broken ends of the yarn are joined by the pneumatic splicer to produce knot free continuous length yarn package. These splices are nearly similar to parent yarn with respect to physical and dimensional properties. A large number of splices is carried out during winding, and failure of these splices causes a reduction in productivity of the winding as well as the subsequent process. The present study aims at reduction in splice failure rate to improve the productivity of the winding machine. The splice failure rate is depending upon the air pressure and air flow time of the splicing unit. In this study, the attempt has also been made to find out the effect of splicing parameters like splicing air pressure and splicing time on the quality of splice and splice failure rate. Keywords Winding Productivity, Splicing, Air Pressure, Splicing Time, Splice Appearance

*All correspondences shall be addressed to, Sujit Gulhane, Center for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS, Shirpur Email : sujitgulhane.iitd@gmail.com May - June 2019

Thus, the optimization of untwisting parameters can be done at the required untwisting level by visual examination. Though there are many studies conducted previously by considering untwisting and splicing parameters, there is scope for optimization of splicing parameters for each count of yarn to reduce the splice failure rate, air consumption and achieve the best quality of spliced yarn. In this project, the effect of the pneumatic splicer variables viz. splicing air pressure and splicing time was studied to find out its effect on splice failure rate and splice yarn quality on winding. 2. Material and methods The 100 % cotton yarn of 11 Ne was prepared by using with 24 mm staple length, 4.11 micronaier, 0.78 Maturity Index, 22.4 g/tex strength with 5.6 % trash. The Reiter K45 ring frame running with a spindle speed of 19000 and Twist per Inch of 24 was set to produce 60 Ne yarn. These ring yarn bobbins are wound at a speed of 1500 m/min into a 2.5 kg conical package on SchlafhorostAutoconer 338, attached with Loepfe Tk940 F yarn clearers. The pneumatic splicer of DZ1 type is used for the study, the opening pressure of 4 bar is set to untwist the tail ends of the broken yarn. Whereas the re-twisting pressure of 4, 4.5, 5 bar and re-twisting time of 180, 200, 220 milliseconds are set at each re-twisting pressure. The splices were collected at each trail to find out their effects on splice strength and yarn quality. The splice failure rate is 5

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1. Introduction Though there are many different techniques to splice the textile yarn, the pneumatic splicing is widely used due to its performance and versatility. Thus, it becomes a wise choice for the production of knot-free yarn. The pneumatic splicing principles like untwisting and splicing may look very simple at first sight, but it is quite complex in actual due to more number of variables namely related to fiber, yarn, and splicing device[1]. As this study is mainly focusing on the splicing of spun yarns, weightage has given only to splicing device-related parameters. The splicing quality is being evaluated by a parameter called Retained Splice Strength (RSS) and Retained Splice Appearance (RSA). RSS is defined as the ratio of breaking strength of the spliced yarn expressed as the percentage of the breaking strength of parent yarn [2,3,5]. The optimization of splice performance needs to be carried out according to yarn counts and fiber type. The untwisting and twisting are the two important steps in the pneumatic splicing [4]. Hence both untwisting and splicing parameters are equally important. But the untwisting performance can be observed through naked eye when there is no splicing air pressure applied on the splicer [6].

SPINNING noted from the control panel on the winding machine. The parent yarns were also tested for their tensile properties keeping the same testing parameters. 3. Results and discussion 3.1 Effect of Air Pressure & Splicing Time on Spliced Strength and Failure Rate The observed splice failure rate, retained splice strength, and splice appearance at each trails of the splicing pressure and splicing time discusses below. Table 3.1 shows the effect of splicing pressure of 5 bar at splicing time of 180 ms, 200 ms and 220 ms. Table no 3.1 : Effect of 5 bar pressure at different splicing time on spliced yarn quality for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

The above table shows that at 220ms splicing time gives the maximum RSS of 95 % and minimum RSS of 86 % at 180ms splicing time. It is determined that as the splicing time increased the splicing strength is also increased. This can be attributed due to higher twisting and intermingling of the fibers with more time for pneumatic splicing. Along the rise in splice strength, the chances of splice failure are reduced, which can be observed from the above table shows that the splice failure rate at 180 ms, 200 ms, and 220 ms are 3, 2 and 0 respectively. Table no 3.3 : Effect of 4 bar pressure at different splicing time on spliced yarn quality for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

Splicing time Splicing time

180 ms 200 ms

220 ms

splices

Splices

Splice strengthcN

440

460

470

Splice strengthcN

490

470

490

Splice failure rate per 100 spices

86%

90%

92%

96%

92%

96%

Splice failure rate per 100 splices RSS

The above table shows that at 180 ms & 220ms splicing time shows retained spliced strength is 96% and 92 % at 200ms splicing time. The splice strength depends upon the fiber orientation and cohesion between the fibers at the splice. At 180 ms splicing time fibers are more oriented and at 220 ms splicing time fiber are tightly arranged to have more cohesive bonding. At 200 msfiber getting tightly arranged but they are less oriented along the axis of the yarn results into lower retained splice strength. Whereas the splice failure rate is zero at 180 ms splice time and it is 2 %, 1 % at 200 ms and 220 ms respectively. Thus it is recommended that, set splicing unit at 180 ms time to achieve better RSS, reduced splice failure rate and low air consumption. Journal of the TEXTILE Association

180 ms 200 ms

Table no 3.2 : Effect of 4.5 bar pressure at different splicing time on spliced yarn quality for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

Splicing time

180 ms 200 ms

220 ms

splices

Splice strengthcN

440

460

485

Splice failure rate per 100 splices

86%

90%

95%

RSS 6

RSS

The above table shows that at 220ms splicing time gives the maximum RSS of 92 % and minimum RSS of 86 % at 180ms splicing time. It is determined that as the splicing time increased the splicing strength is also increased. This can be attributed due to higher twisting and intermingling of the fibers with more time for pneumatic splicing. Along the rise in splice strength, the chances of splice failure are reduced, which can be observed from the above table shows that the splice failure rate at 180 ms, 200 ms, and 220 ms are 2, 2 and 0 respectively. 3.2 Effect of Air Pressure & Splicing Time on Spliced Yarn Appearance The appearance of the yarn and a spliced portion is very important as it decides the quality of the yarn. Thus the yarn spliced portion needs to appear similar to that of parent yarn. In this study, the spliced yarn samples were traced out manually at each experimental trial. These splices were placed on the splice observation board to study splice length, splice diameter, fiber orientation, and splice bulk. The image of the yarn splices at considered splicing parameters viz. splicing pressure and splicing time is given below.

May - June 2019

4. Figure 3.1 : Effect of air pressure & splicing time on 11Ne spliced yarn appearance

Above figure, a, b and c shows the splices at 5, 4.5 and 4 bar splicing pressure respectively. At each splicing pressure, the effect of splicing time on yarn appearance was also shown. It is observed that the splicing pressure has more effect on splice appearance than that of splicing time. At 5 bar splicing pressure, more compact and dense splices are formed as compared with 4.5 bar and 4 bar splicing pressure. With a reduction in splicing pressure compactness of the splices reduces. The splicing time has a very low effect on yarn appearance at 5 bar splicing pressure, where has at 4.5 bar and 4 bar splicing pressure splicing time has more effect. The rise in splicing time shows more compactness in the yarn due to more time for application torsional force on the fibers at the splice. 4. Conclusion The effect of splicing parameters viz., splicing time and the splicing air pressure on the splice failure rate, retained splice strength and splice appearance was observed in the present study. To obtain a lower splice failure rate and higher RSS splicing pressure and splicing time need to be set at an optimum level. The appearance of the yarn is also affected by splicing pressure and splicing time. To get a massive change in the compactness of the splice, splicing pressure should be optimized, whereas to get fiber closer and confined to the yarn splicing time should be optimized. The study also concludes that splice failure rate can be minimized to the zero levels by optimizing splicing pressure and splicing time. 5. Acknowledgement : The authors are grateful to Dr. P.P.Raichurkar Associate Dean SVKM's NMIMS MPSTME CTF, Shirpur for continuous guidance and support. 6. References 1.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

Textile Research Journal, Volume 57 (8), 1987. Pp. 490494. Jacek Rutkowski, Tenacity of Cotton Yarns Joined during the Rewinding Process, FIBERS & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, Vol. 19, No. 1(84), 2011. Pp. 34-36. K. P. S. CHENG and H. L. I. LAM, Strength of Pneumatic Spliced Polyester/Cotton Ring Spun Yarns, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 70 (3), 2000. Pp.243-246. H. L. I. LAM and K. P. S. CHENG, Pneumatic Splicing, Textile Asia, July 1997. Pp. 66-69. A. R. Padmanabhan and V. Balakrishnan, A study on the abrasion resistance of ring spun yarns, resume of papers 33rd joint technological conference, February 1992, Mumbai. pp. 61-67 K. P. S. CHENG and H. L. I. Lam, Physical Properties Of Pneumatically Spliced Cotton Ring Spun Yarns, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 70 (12), 2000. Pp. 10531057 B. Jaouachi, M. Ben Hassen, and F. Sskli, Optimization of The Behavior of Sized Wet Spliced Yarns, AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No. 1, March 2009. Pp. 1-4. R. C. D. kaushik, I. C. Sharma, and P. K. Hari, Some Studies on Spliced Yarn, 27th Joint Technological Conference, Bombay, 1986. Pp. 92-99. R. C. D. Kaushik I. C. Sharma, P. K. Hari and A. K. Sarkar, Performance of Spliced Yarn in Warping and Weaving, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 57, No. 11,1987. Pp. 670-673 Carwyn James Webb, Graham Thomas Waters, Guo Ping Liu And Clive Thomas, The influence of yarn count on the splicing of simple continuous filament synthetic yarns, Textile Research Journal, volume-79, no-3, 2009, pp- 195-204. K.R.Patil, Mr. Kulabhaskar Sing, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao, Effect of twist on yarn properties, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Process, Vol.3(1), 2017, 19 23. V.D.Chaudhari, Prafull P. Kolte, A.D.Chaudhari, Effect of Card Delivery Speed on Ring Yarn Quality, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Process, Vol.3(4), 2017, 13-18. Bhushan Chaudhari, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao, Sanjay Mhaske, Performance of Card and Comb Sliver Blended Yarn, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Process, Vol.3(1), 2017, 30-35. Gaurav Thakare, Tushar Shinde Sujit Shrikrushnarao Gulhane Pramod Raichurkar, Effect of Piecing Index in Comber on Sliver and Yarn Quality, Spinning Textiles, Mar-Apr 2018, Page No 132-136. Mayur Suryawanshi, Tushar Shinde Sujit Shrikrushnarao Gulhane, Rajendra Dhondinath Parsi, Pramod Raichurkar, Optimization of Drafting Parameter of Speed Frame For Better Yarn Quality, Spinning Textiles, July-Aug 2018, Page No 04-12.

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R. C. D. Kaushik and I. C. Sharma, Effect of Fiber/Yarn Variables on Mechanical Properties of Spliced Yarn,

May - June 2019

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Measuring the Dynamic Tensile Stresses on Weaving Machines Using Strain Gauge: Instrumentation Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally* Textile Engineering Department, Textile Research Division, National Research Centre Abstract An electronic measuring device and a data acquisition system were built - up to record, measure and analyze the dynamic stresses on veaving machines during their operation. This measuring device composed of starin gauge, amplifier, measuring head, A to D converter and personal computer. Using this measudring device, tensile stresses on yarns and fabric and on the weaving machine parts as well can be measured and analyzed accurately. Verification of this device was done by comparing it with the Rotschild Elecronic measuring device.

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Keywords Tensile stresses, weaving machine, warp yarn tension, weft yarn tension, strain gauge, Wheatstone bridge.

1. Introduction Warp yarns, weft yarns and fabrics on weaving machines are subjected to various stresses not only during the machine operation, but also during its stoppage. These stresses are considered the most important parameters affect the fabric formation [1]. If these stresses exceeded a certain limit it will adversely influence the quality of the woven fabrics and the weaving machine efficiency. Warp yarns during a weaving cycle are exposed to cyclic tensile stresses, as well as it is subjected to inter yarn friction and to friction with metal by coming into contact with the machine parts such as, backrest roller, drop wires, harnesses frames, and reed, and during interlacing with filling yarns [2]. In general, tensile stresses acting on warp yarns differ from yarn to yarn, weaver beam to another and depending also on woven fabric structure. The variation of these tensile stresses may be attributed to the incorrect warping, sizing and the effect of tension sensors on let-off roller and sometimes will be clearly in greige fabric. Uneven tensile stress acting on the individual warp yarns over the fabric width had a significant impact on the produced fabric quality and the yarn crimp in both warp and weft directions [3-6]. The tensile stresses on the warp ends occurring during weaving which can lead to yarn breaks, breakdowns, loss of quality and shutdowns have a significant influence on productivity and profitability. Warp yarns break*All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally Textile Engineering Department, Textile Research Division, National Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt. 8

age takes place as the result of high warp tension. By contrast, the low warp tension leads to warp yarn jam, and then its break. Besides, a very low warp tension results in the formation of an unclear shed. Finally, a clear shed on weaving machines is required to decrease the problems associated with weft insertion [7]. Nowadays, the electronic ROTSCHILD tensionmeter is commonly used in Egypt to measure warp and weft yarn tension on weaving machines. This device consists of a measuring head, an indicator apparatus and recorder. The measuring head is the tensionmeter which comes into contact with the yarn to be measured. It consists of a metal cylinder on the outside, from one end of which protrudes the centric measuring rod and the two yarn guides. The measuring head is designed as a differential capacitor. A capacitor electrode is placed in such a way as to be moved slightly by the running yarn and cause thus capacity variations. In this device the available measuring heads cover a total measuring range of 1-200,000 grams [8]. In last few decades, an abundant number of research works regarding warp yarns, weft yarns and woven fabrics characteristics have been conducted [9-25]. But the most of them concentrated on textile material characteristics rather than studying the dynamic stresses acting on it during their processing. Understanding the dynamic tensile stresses acting on warp and weft yarns during weaving is a fundamental principle in order to perfectly set up the weaving machines. Thus, this study is aimed to build - up an electronic measuring device to measure and record dynamic stresses influencing textile materials on weavMay - June 2019

WEAVING

2. Materials and methods The built-up measuring device consists of the following elements: 2.1. Strain gauge and wheatstone bridge Strain gauge is a variable resistor that deforms along with the material to which it is bonded when a force or load is applied. The changes in electrical resistance across the strain gauge are so small that it requires very sensitive equipment. To measure this small change in resistance indirectly, a wheatstone bridge is used. A wheatstone bridge registers the small change in resistance of the strain gauge as a voltage difference. As the resistance of the strain gauge increases due to an elongation, amount of voltage difference will also increase. The wheatstone bridge in this study consists of two known resistors of 1 KW each, two strain gauges ( variable resistors ) of 120 W each, a 9 volts power supply and a potentiometer of 200 W to set the bridge in a balance state after measuring. The two strain gauges are cemented on both sides of a metal piece, were necessary to eliminate the temperature effect. 2.2. DC Amplifier The output voltage from the wheatstone bridge is very small and must be amplified. A DC amplifier is used to amplify the output current from the wheatstone bridge up to 1000 times. The DC amplifier consists of a number of resistors, diodes, capacitors, voltage regulators and ICs. 2.3. Analog to digital converter (A to D converter) The output from the DC amplifier is connected through a terminal panel to an analog to digital converter (A to D) board mounted in a personal computer. The A to D converter is used to convert the output signals from the DC amplifier from analog state to digital one. In the course of this study DM-P076 analog to digital converter was used with the following specifications: - Number of channels : 8 single - ended - Resolutions : 12 bits

- A / D device : A / D 574 - Accuracy : 0.01 % of reading - Conversion type : Successive approximation - Linearity : ± 1 bit - Input voltage : -5 V to + 5 V - Input current : May - June 2019

- 20 mA to + 20 mA - output voltage : 0 to 5 V - Input current : 0 to 100 mA - Setting time : 30 ms

2.4. Personal computer A personal computer of type Core I 5, 3.2 MHz was used to display, store and manipulate the output data. Using a software C++ program, data that was acquired from data acquisition system are averaged and plotted. Figure 1 shows the wole bridge circuit and a general view of the measuring device is shown in figure 2. The foil strain gauge used in this study has the following specification: - Measurable strain: 2 to 4 % - Gauge resistance : 120 W - Gauge tolerance: ± 0.05 %

- Foil material : copper nickel alloy - Fatigue life: >105 reversals - Gauge length : 8 mm - Gauge factor: 2.1 - Gauge width : 2 mm - Temperature range: -30 C° to + 80 C°

The principle of operation of the strain gauge is based on the fact that the resistance of an electrical conductor changes with a ratio of SR / R is a stress applied such that its length changes by a factor SL / L. Where SR is the change in resistance from unstressed value, and SL is change in length from original unstressed length. The change in resistance is brought about mainly by the phisical size of the conductor changing and an alteration of the conductivity of the material, due to changes in the material structure. Copper nickel alloy is commonly used in strain gauge construction because the resistance change of the foil is virtually proportional to the applied strain i.e., Where, K is a constant known as a gauge factor, and E is the strain SR -------- = K*E R

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ing machines during their operation. This measuring device can also be used to measure the dynamic stresses on the weaving machine parts.

SR /R then, K = -------------E SL E =strain ------L

WEAVING

Figure 2.1: Strain gauge circuit for measurement of dynamic stresses

of all paints, rust etc. and finally smoothed with a fine grade emery paper or fine sand blasting to provide a sound bonding surface. The area should be degreased with solvent cleaner and finally neutralized with a weak detergent solution. Tissues or lint free cloth should be used for this operation, wetting the surface and wiping off the clean tissues or cloth until the final tissue used is stain free. Care must be taken not to wipe grease from a surrounding area onto the prepared area or to touch the surface with finger. This final cleaning should take place immediately prior to installation of the gauge. 2.5.2. Adhesion and strain gauge installation By sticking a short length of adhesive tape along the upper surface of the gauge it may be picked up from a flat clean surface. Holding both ends of the tape, orientate the gauge in the desired location and stick the end of the tape furthermost from the tags to the specimen. Bend the other end of the tape on itself thereby exposing the back of the gauge.

Figure 2.2: General view of set-up measuring device

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The change in resistance of the strain gauge can, therefore, be utilized to measure strain accurately when connected to an appropriate measuring and indicating circuit e.g., strain gauge amplifier. Figure 2.3 shows a general view of a type of foil strain gauge which is used in this study.

Figure 2.3: A general view of a foil strain gauge

2.5. Instruction for mounting of strain gauge In order to obtain the best possible results from the strain gauge, it is important to thoroughly prepare the gauge and the surface of the specimen to which the gauge is to be attached, prior to bonding with the recommended adhesive. 2.5.1. Specimen surface preparation An area larger than the installation should be cleared 10

Adhesive of type RD "quick - set epoxy " is recommended. When using this adhesive type, the back of the gauge is coated with adhesive and gently push down into position. Wiping excess adhesive to the two outside edges of the gauge, to leave a thin film of adhesive between gauge and sample. Stick the whole length of tape to hold the gauge in position. Care should be taken that there is even layer of adhesive and no air bubbles are left under the grid. Cover the gauge with cellophane or polyethylene etc., and apply a light weight or clamp as required until adhesive has set. Remove tape by slowly and very carefully pulling it back over itself, starting at the end furthermost from the tags, and do not pull upwards. The comparison trial between set-up measuring device and the ROTSCHILD measuring device was conducted on SULZER projectile weaving machine, model TW11 with the following particulars: - Loom speed : 180 ppm - Max. reed width : 160 cm - No. of harness frames: 6 - Fabric structure: plain 1/1 - No. of ends / inch: 68 - No. of picks / inch: 50 3. Results and discussion The results and discussion of this study are confined to verify the working of the set-up measuring device by May - June 2019

WEAVING comparing it with a standard electronic measuring device, i.e. ROTSCHILD tensiometer. 3.1. Verification of built-up measuring device Before using the built-up measuring device in the experimental work, it is expedient to compare it with a standard one. An electronic ROTSCHILD tensiometer was used to verify the set-up measuring device by carrying out a comparison between them. Prior to the actual trial, both measuring devices were calibrated. This experiment was conducted using 50/50 cotton / polyester blended filling yarn with count 30/2 Ne. On the weaving machine, ROTSCHILD tensiometer is placed in the rear of the set-up measuring device as shown figure 3.1. Thirty-nine warp yarns were threaded in the measuring head of the set-up device, and one of which was inserted in the head of ROTSCHILD device. The output voltage (mV) from the set-up measuring device was averaged and then divided by 39 to evaluate the mean voltage for each end. By using the calibration curves the individual readings of warp tension (cN/end) for each device were derived. A t-test was used to assess the significant difference between the average values of warp tension from both devices according to the following formula:

| < t distribution at 95 % confidence. This means that we can accept the null hypothesis and it is deduced that the difference between the two devices is insignificant, so the set-up measuring device is very accurate and reliable. Figure 3.2 shows the tension trace acquired from the two devices and this figure reveals that the difference between the two devices is very slight which supports the findings of the statistical test. Table 3.1: Summery of tension data acquired from ROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices. ROTSCHILD Device Set-up Device No. of observations

715

Mean warp tension

31.51912

30.04434

Max. warp tension

44.248

47.4123

Standard deviation

7.079337

7.308291

Variance

50.11701

53.41111

Table 3.2: Summery of t-test for ROTCHILD and Set-up measuring devices.

Pooled variance

51.76406

Difference hypothesis

Degree of freedom

1428

0.000111

tdistriburion

1.961625

y1= mean warp tension from ROTSCHILD. y2= mean warp tension from set-up measuring device. n1 , n2 = number of observations. Sp2 is the pooled variance calculated from the relation:

Where s12 and s22 are the two individual sample variances. To define whether to refuse the null hypothesis; Ho: U1= U2 we will compare t0 to the t distribution with n1+n2-2 degree of freedom. If | t0 | > ta/2,n1+n2-2, we will refuse Ho and deduce that the mean warp tension of the two devices are different. Table 3.1 summarizes the average values of warp tension acquired from both devices and the statistical results of t-test are given in table 3.2. From these results we can conclude that t0 May - June 2019

Figure 3.1: Comparison experiment between ROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices.

Figure 3.2: Comparison between tension traces acquired from ROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices. 11

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Where,

WEAVING 4. Conclusions A useful set-up measuring device with a data acquisition system was built-up and successfully utilized. This measuring device can be used to measure and analyze different dynamic stresses on the textile materials on the weaving machines. Stresses on the weaving machine parts can be evaluated using this measuring device as well. This measuring device was compared with a standard warp tensing measuring apparatus, i.e. ROTSCHILD measuring apparatus. The statistical analysis revealed that there is no significant difference between this device and the Rotschild Electronic device with respect dynamic warp tension.

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The application of this measuring device is to measure and record the dynamic warp tension, longitudinal and traverse fabric tension during the weaving machine operation is the subject of the following parts of these series of papers. References 1. Uzma S., Rafique, A., & Mazhar H. Mehran Univ. Res J Eng Tech. 32 (2013), 125-132. Retrieved from http://publications.muet.edu.pk/ 2. Kohlhaas, O. Int Text Bull, 2 (1981), 135-141. 3. Ludwig, H. W., & Gries, T. Melliand Text Eng, 2 (2003)., 55-58. 4. Ozkan, G. Ph.D. Thesis, Uludag University, Turkey, (2005). 240-245. 5. Ozkan, G., & Eren, R. Int J of Cloth Sci Tech, 22 (2010), 272-284. doi: 10.1108/09556221011048295 6. Nosraty, H., Jeddi, A., Kabganian, M., & Nejad, B. Text Res J, 76 (2006), 637-645. doi:10.1177/ 0040517506065604 7. Gloy, S., Renkens, W. Herty, M., & Gries, T. J Text Sci Eng, 5 (2015), 1-7. doi: 10.4172/21658064.1000179. 8. "Electronic Rotschild Tensiometer, (R-3000), Operating Manual". Retrieved from http:// www.rothschild-instruments.ch/products/electronictensionmter/ 9. Alsaid . A. Almetwally and Mona. M. Salem. Comparison between Mechanical Properties of Fabrics Woven from Compact and Ring Spun Yarns. AUTEX Research Journal, 10 (1), March 2010, 35-40. 10. Yasser. M. Eid, Ahmed Alsalmawy, and Alsaid. A. Almetwally. Performance of Woven Fabrics Containing Spandex. Textile Asia, volume XL1 No. 5, PP 39-42, May 2010 11. Adel Elhadidy and Alsaid A.Almetwally. Subjective Evaluation of Garment. Journal of Textile Asia, 41(8), August 2010, 28-32. 12

12. M. M. Mourad, Ahmed El-Salmawy, and Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally. Core spun yarn and the secret behind its popular appeal. Textile Asia, 2011, November, 42, 41-43. 13. Mohamed A. Ramadan, Ghada A. El sayed and Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally. Treatment of cotton fabrics using microwave and subsequent dyeing. Textile Asia, April, 2012. 14. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad and Abeer Ebraheem Eldsoky Mohammed. A Study of Yarn Breaks on Warping Machine. Life Science Journal, 10(1), 2013, 108-114. 15. N. A. Ibrahima,, A. Amr, B.M. Eid, A. A. Almetwally, M. M. Mourad. Functional finishes of stretch cotton fabrics. Journal of Carbohydrate Polymers, 98, 2013, 1603- 1609. 16. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally and M.M. Mourad. Effects of spandex drawing ratio and weave structure on the physical properties of cotton/spandex woven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 105 (3), 2014, 235-245. 17. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, H. F. Idrees and Ali Ali Hebeish. Predecting the Tensile Properies of cotton/ spandex core-spun yarns using Artificial Neural networks and regression models. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 2014, 105(11), 12211229 18. M. A. Saad, M. M. sabry and Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally. A study of Some Fabric and Fiber Parameters that Affect Air Filters Efficiency. Journal of textile Asia, Vol. 45, No. 4, May, 2014, 3841. 19. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad , Ali Ali Hebeish and Mohamed A. Ramadan. Comparison Between Physical Properties of Ring-Spun Yarn and Compact Yarns Spun from Different Pneumatic Compacting systems. Indian Journal of Fibers and Textile Research, 40, March 2015, 43-50. 20. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad and Ali Ali Hebeish. Some handle Properties of Cotton fabrics woven from Ring Spun Yarn and Compact Yarns Spun from Different Pneumatic Compacting Systems. Textile Association journal, 76 (4), November-December, 222-228, 2015. 21. Mohamed A. Ramadan, Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally and Safinaz S. Mohamed. Effect of microwave treatment and weave structure on cotton fabric performance. Journal of Textile Asia, 46(8), October 2015, 34-41. 22. Nabil A Ibrahim, Basma M Eid, Heba M Khalil, Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally. A new approach for durable multifunctional coating of PET fabric. Applied Surface Science, 448, 2018, 95-103. ❑❑❑ May - June 2019

REVIEW PAPER

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The Challenges and Issues : Faced by the Weavers of Belgaum Dr. Ashalatha K*, Mr. Rakhesh Shetty & Mr. S. Saravanan Justice K S Hegde Institute of Management Abstract The handloom industry is a traditional cottage industry in our country played an important role for the growth of the economy. Once upon a time, India was also a largest exporter of textiles in the country. Due to the introduction of various technologies in the field of textile industry, the concept of weaving is declining rapidly. The objective of the study is to find out the financial, health and marketing problems which are faced by the weavers in Belgaum.This research is really important because it can be used by the government to know whether the government schemes are really reaching out to the people, so that they can come up with some other programs which the weavers are really in need and can get the benefits from it.This research is an exploratory research and was conducted in 9 taluksof Belgaum. The study mainly focused on the variables like age, health issues financial aspect and also the various government schemes . While analysing the data the results showed that weaving is done by the people within the age group of 35 - 50 years. This indicates that the current younger generation are moving out of weaving at present. Keywords Belgaumweavers, Financial issues, Government schemes, Health issues, Women weavers.

Handloom weaving consists of the art of producing saris, dhotis, shawls, bed sheets and so on. As per the reports there are over 38,00,000 Indian weaving companies. During the ancient period Indian textiles were very significant. Some of the popular Indian weaving companies are: Arvind Mills, Vardhaman Spinning, Jai India Weaving Mills Private Limited and so on. Weaving in India is done through handlooms. These textiles may be woven from cotton, wool or silk. India's oldest fabric is a traditional cotton weave called Khadi. Khadi was used for 1

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to, Dr. Ashalatha K, Professor, Justice K S Hegde Institute of Management, Nitte 574110 May - June 2019

Andhra Pradesh is renowned for its handloom. Bihar and Chhattisgarh is known for Tussar silk. Gujarat is known for Patola print. Jammu and Kashmir is popular for pure silk, crepe, Chiffon saris and Pashmina shawls. Karnataka is popular for Mulberry silk. The Mysore silk saris which are made out of pure zari borders are very popular in the country. The mostr traditional saris of Karnataka are the Mokalmuru saris of Chitradurgaand and the Ilkal saris of Bagalkot. West Bengal is known for Baluchari and Kantha work saris which is made up of silk and cotton. Tamil Nadu is known for Chettinad and Coimbatore cottons. Orissa is known for Sambalpuri and Bomkai handlooms. 1.1 Hand looms of Karnataka Handloom weaving has been in Karnataka since very ancient times.The handloom industry of Karnataka is the largest cottage industry. In terms of magnitude ofemployment, it is next only to agriculture. Therefore, it occupies an important place in the development of the state by catering to the needs of economically weaker sections of the society. As per the third handloom census conducted by NCAER (National Council of Applied Economic Research). The main highlights of the research with regard to Karnataka state were The total number of handloom worker households is 37,680. Out of which 33,854 households are in rural 13

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1 Introduction Weaving is a method of producing textile by using threads or yarns. The yarn was spun into threads and then was woven in looms to make cloth. The entire process of spinning was done with the help of a spinning wheel. The concept of weaving was originated during the Palaeolithic era, 27000 years ago. In India, weaving was discovered during the Indus Valley Civilization. Indian Weaving Industry provides mass employment. It is due to the abundant supply of raw material and cheap labour.

REVIEW PAPER area and remaining i.e 3826 households are in urban area. â&#x2014;&#x2020;

â&#x2014;&#x2020; â&#x2014;&#x2020;

Out of total handloom worker households (37,608), 842 households belong to Scheduled Cast, 1144 households belong to Scheduled tribes, 32,468 households belong to other backward caste and 3226 households are others. Average earning of Handloom worker household is Rs.24,897/- per year. With regard to source of loan taken by handloom households, 4.6% from money lender, 39.8% from master weaver, 2.2% from friends Relatives, 27.3% from Co-operative Societies, 19.7% from Commercial banks, 4.1% from self Help Groups, 0.45 from traders and 1.9% from others.

1.2 Karnataka Handloom development Corporation (KHDC) According to the 20-point programme of central government, to uplift the handloom weavers working outside the co-operative sector, KHDC was established on October 2nd, 1975. One of the important features of KHDC is it has developed 'Intensive Handloom Development Project' at different places in the state. At present there are 12 intensive Handloom Development scheme centres.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The purposes of this scheme are: 1. To free the weavers from the clutches of master weavers. 2. To meet the yarn requirements of weavers 3. To improve the quality of weaving through training 4. To arrange for marketing of handloom products. 2. Literature Review (Sultana 2016)weavers continue to commit suicide due to personal reasons or work-related issues. According to the survey conducted with 392 weavers, 31 percent of the weavers are earning less than Rs.5000, 68 percent are earning between Rs.5000 to Rs.10000 and only 1 percent of the weavers are earning above Rs.10000 per month. There are many long-term programs for the development of handloom industry, but there is no much impact of these programs. It is due to lack of awareness about the various programs that are made available for the weavers. (Satyanarayana 2016) weavers are facing major health problems such as eyesightweakness, back pain, knee pain and joint pain. According to the research conducted with 200 respondents at Nellore district, 94 14

respondents are facing back pain, 66 respondents are facing eyesight weakness, 24 respondents are facing join pain and 16 respondents are not any facing knee pain. Due to inadequate marketing there has been a periodical accumulation of stocks, which has resulted in unemployment among the weavers. (Pradesh & Tanusree 2015) the production system is mostly under the control of a particular entrepreneurial class master weaver or Gaddidarwho possess capital and power. Younger generations are interested in powerloom business. Those handloom weavers, who have not possessed sufficient capital for installing powerloom, become poor to poorer. Indebtedness becomes a persistent crisis of the weavers. The weavers do not realise that products manufactured using power loom are cheaper than handloom products. The weavers do not sustain their life with the handloom. With this declining trend in the handloom sector the problems of unemployment will aggravate. (Thayumanavar & Shanmugapriya 2017) In Kongu region there is more number of male weavers between the age group of 31-35 years. Very Few incomes are earned by these weavers. Handloom saris are popular in India. But there is lack of promotion of saris. Demand of the product is more only during festival time. The demand will be more only when it is offered at a discounted rate. The procurement of raw material is a challenging one and most of the weavers procure raw material from Co-operative society. At present many educated people are moving to other sectors. Due to this the handloom sectors are in a decline stage. (Chutia & Bhuyan 2014) Women weavers of Assam find it difficult to secure loan due to the non-availability of collateral security. They are dependent on their family members to for finance. Out of 140 respondents, 84 percent of the respondents believe that lack of access to raw materials is one of the main reasons for not taking weaving as their profession. 82 percent of the respondents feel that family responsibilities comes first and this is the domestic problem faced by them 2.1 Research Objectives The research titled "The challenges and issues faced by weavers of Belgaum" will have the following objectives1. To identify the financial problems faced by the weavers. 2. To study whether the weavers are aware of the various schemes and programmes provided by the May - June 2019

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3. 4.

government for them. To understand thehealth related issues faced by the weavers. To know whether the weavers face any technological issues due to the shift from handloom sector to power loom sector. To find out the marketing problems faced by the weavers.

2.2 Hypothesis In order to give a proper direction to the study, proper hypothesis were developed after a detailed literature review1. Weavers face financial issues and health related issues. 2. Weavers are not aware of the various schemes and programmes provided by the government. 3. Weavers face marketing problems.

3.Results The study mainly focuses on the 5 variables namely health issues, financial issues, technological issues, marketing issues, awareness about the various government schemes that has been provided for the weavers and the challenges faced by women weavers.. 3.1 Financial problems of the weavers During the study an attempt was made to understand the financial problems faced by the weavers. The table no. 2.1 shows details regarding the financial problems faced by them. H 1: Weavers face financial issues and health issues The first hypothesis of the study attempts to measure the financial issues faced by the weavers. The hypothesis has been tested using correlation. Table 3.1 Financial Issues and health issues

The data was analyzed with the help of SPSS statistical package by using correlation test and frequency distribution. The in-depth interviews were interpreted accordingly. 2.4 Limitation The research has the following limitations◆ There are more than 4000 weavers in Belgaum, but our sample size was limited to 20 group of weavers. Each weaver group's opinion is different from others. Hence,it is difficult to come to a detailed conclusion regarding the "The challenges and issues faced by weavers of Belgaum". ◆ Due to the lack of time available to conduct the research, we were not able to meetall the weavers personally. Due to this we cannot identify the exact problems faced by the weavers. ◆ On an average we spent around 15 - 20 minutes to contact each respondent, due to this few weavers were not ready for the survey as they were busy with their work. ◆ Language was also the major limitation faced by us while contacting the weavers. May - June 2019

Health issues

Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) N Financial issues Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) N Source: Field Data

Health issues 1

Financial issues .368

20 368

.110 20 1

.110 20

Health issues and financial issues are positively correlated. The significance level is more than 0.05. Hence, we accept the null hypothesis. It takes 2 days to produce a woollen blanket. The cost of raw materials is Rs. 600 and other expense is Rs. 700. The selling price is Rs. 1500 each. Hence, a weaver can earn a profit of Rs. 200 each per woollen blanket. They can earn only after they produce the product. The common health issues faced by the weavers are eye pain and back pain. This is because weavers will have to focus more when they are weaving and if they divert their mind, they end up messing up with the product, due to this they give a lot of strain for their eyes while weaving. The process of weaving is usually done in a sitting posture and it is a time consuming process. Hence, they end up getting a back pain. 3.1.1 Awareness of various government schemes and programmes During the study an attempt was made to understand 15

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2.3 Methodology The scholars suggested that the best way to collect the data is by adopting quantitative research methods. This method gives us deeper understanding and closure to participant's natural habits. The primary data was collected by contacting the weavers from Belgaum district. The sample size was 20 groups.The data was collected by contacting 2 to 3 group ofweavers from 9 taluks.

REVIEW PAPER the various government schemes and programmes offered for the weavers. The table no. 2.2 shows details regarding awareness of various government schemes and programs. H 2: Weavers are not aware of the various schemes and programmes provided by the government. The second hypothesis of the study attempts to measure the awareness of government schemes. The hypothesis has been tested using correlation.

Age

Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) N Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) 20

Government Scheme N

1 20 .410 .072 20

Government Scheme .410 .072 20 1

There is a positive correlation between age and government scheme. The significance level is more than 0.05. Hence, we reject the null hypothesis and accept the alternative hypothesis. By looking at the table above, it is found out that the weavers are aware of the schemes that have been offered to them by the government. Table 3.2(b) Government Schemes Government Scheme Housing Health Loan Insurance

Scholarship

Total Housing Loan

8 0 8

3 2 5

16 4 20

5 2 7

Source: Field Data Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 3.3 Marketing Issues

Marketing

Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) N Pearson Correlation Sig. (2-tailed) N

Health Issues

Marketing

.182 .444 20

20 .182 .444 20

1 20

Source: Field Data

Age30-50 Above 50 Total

H3: Weavers face marketing problems The third hypothesis has been tested using correlation.

Health Issues

Table 3.2(a) Government Schemes Age

3.2 Marketing problems faced by the weavers During the study an attempt was made to understand the marketing problems faced by the weavers. The table no. 2.3 shows details regarding the marketing problems faced by them.

The government provides housing loan of Rs. 2 lakh for each family of the weaver. The weavers have to pay a premium of Rs. 40 for health insurance and they can claim up to Rs. 60000 as coverage. A scholarship amount of Rs. 1200 each will be given for 2 children of the weavers. This scholarship amount will be provided only for the students who are studying in SSLC, PUC, Under Graduation and Post Graduation.

There is a positive correlation between health issues and marketing issues faced by the weavers. The significance level is greater than 0.05. Hence, we accept the null hypothesis and reject the alternative hypothesis. Women usually prefer to sell their products to Karnataka Handloom Society rather than personal selling. This is because they feel that it is safe and can also recover their money. But they do not possess marketing skills, hence, they prefer to under the guidance of the corporation. Very few weavers sell their products in different states on their own. Some other weavers sell their product to the co-operative society. 3.3 Technological issues - Shift from handloom sector to power loom sector During the study an attempt was made to understand the technological issues faced by the weavers due to the shift from handloom sector to power loom sector. The table no. 2.4 shows details regarding the technological issues faced by them. Table 3.4 Technological Issues

Valid

Handloom Power Loom Total

Frequency 5 15 20

Percent 25.0 75.0 100.0

Source: Field Data 16

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According to the survey, out of 20 group respondents, 75 percent of the respondents would prefer to shift from handloom to power loom. They feel that working in a power loom is much better than handloom. This is because less time is consumed while using power loom and due to this they can also increase their output and earn more returns and will also not face more health issues.

ing do other works as well for their living. They find it difficult to concentrate on both weaving and sheep farming. Women weavers have lack of time to spend with their family as they are busy with their work. As the weavers earn money after selling the product, there is a time lag in receiving payments from the customers. Due to this they find it difficult to purchase raw materials for their next production.

But only 25 percent of the respondents are not ready to shift to power loom. This is because they are not ready for the change and they are more comfortable to produce the output manually.

4. Discussions There are 4594 weavers in Belgaum out of which 1990 perform weaving of wool and 2604 perform weaving through cotton. There are 10 taluks in Belgaum and 9 taluks earn their living through weaving. The 9 taluks consists of the following number of weavers: Hukkeri - 173, Chikkodi - 444, Athani - 539, Raibag 79, Ramdurg - 1544, Savadatti - 721, Parasgad - 358, Gokak - 354, Belgaum - 382. The purpose of the study was to find out the issues and challenges faced by the weavers of the Belgaum. The various factors that we have considered for our study are health issues, financial issues, technological issues, marketing issues and awareness about the various government schemes that has been provided for the weavers.

However, majority of the weavers will not face any technological issues due to the shift from handloom sector to power loom sector. Hence, many weavers would be satisfied while they are working in a power loom. 3.3.1.Challenges of the Women Weavers Working class of women usually face difficulties due to their day to day functioning of the events. During the study an attempt was made to understand the challenges faced by the weavers in their work life as well as family life. The table no. 2.5 shows details regarding the challenges faced by them. It has also been linked with the type of product they produce. This is due to the time taken to produce different products are not similar.

Table no. 3.5 Challenges

Not Able to Meet Daily Expenses Type of Woollen Product blanket 6 Towel 2 Total 8

Personal Issue Total Unable to Unable to Concentrate on Spend Time Sheep Farming with their Children 4 1 5

6 1 7

16 4 20

Source: Field Data

According to the report, out of 20 grouprespondents 6 respondents who produce woollen blankets are not able to meet their daily expenses and spend time with their children. This is because the time consumed for the production of woollen blankets is more while compared to the production of towel and due to this they take more time in recovering their returns. Some weavers other than concentrating only on weavMay - June 2019

Known that weavers suffer from eye pain and back pain. This is because they put in a lot of strain on themselves and pressurise their eyes resulting in eye pain. Weaving is time consuming and requires lot of physical activities. Hence they end up with back pain by sitting in the same posture for a lot time. As many of the weavers sell their products through corporations, they will have to sell the product at a lower than market price. Hence, hypothesis 1 will be rejected. The weavers are aware of the various government schemes that have been offered to them. The schemes provided by the government includes a housing loan of Rs. 2 Lakh for the family of each weaver, health insurance cover up to Rs. 60000 by paying a premium of Rs. 40 and a scholarship amount of Rs. 1200 will be give for 2 children of the weavers. This scholarship amount will be provided only for the students who are studying in SSLC, PUC, Under Graduation and Post Graduation. Hence, hypothesis 2 will be rejected. The weavers face problem in marketing their product. Some weavers go to other state and sell their product. But the problem here is due to this their travelling expenses will be increased and the sell17

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ing price of the product will also increase. Other weavers sell their product through co-operative society. This is because they do not possess marketing skills and hence prefer to sell through corporative society. Hence, we accept the null hypothesis. Majority of the respondents have no problem in shifting from handloom to power loom sector. This is because producing on a power loom is a time saving process and they can also increase their output and increase their sales. But very few respondents are not ready to go for a change and shift to power loom. The challenges faced by the weavers is due to the lack of time to concentrate only on weaving. They do sheep farming as well for their living. Hence, they find it difficult to concentrate on both weaving and sheep farming. Women weavers have lack of time to spend with their family as they are busy with their work. As the weavers earn money after selling the product, there is a time lag in receiving payments from the customers. Due to this they find it difficult to purchase raw materials for their next production.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

5. Conclusion This research has helped to find out the major issues and challenges faced by the weavers of Belgaum. Weavers do not face health issues as they are following safety measures while producing the output. As the weavers sell their products through corporation, there is an surety that they will get their returns. Other than weaving they also perform other task through which they can earn income. Hence, the weavers do not face health issues and financial issues Majority of the weavers still follow the same traditional form of weaving which is done using handlooms. Few weavers have failed to realise that the process of handloom is a tedious task and requires lot of time and are spending their time to do only one product. As per the survey, the weavers do not have any problem if they shift their operations from handloom to power loom, this shows that they are ready for the change and have no problem relating to technological issues. But the reason why they are not able to shift to power loom is the lack of money which they possess with themselves to buy the power loom. There are several villages in Belgaum where the women are indulged in sheep farming and they also sell the wool from the sheep. This wool will be spun into yarn and in turn it will be used for the purpose of weaving. 18

The weavers are also not able to spend quality time with their family. Despite putting die hard effort to earn their living, they are not reaping the benefits of the effort which has been put forth by them. The younger generations are getting educated. They can make use of this opportunity to do something for their society.Hence, they can think about what innovativeness can be introduced in weaving, which will be beneficial for the weavers and will also make their life better. Bibliography 1. Chutia, L.J. & Bhuyan, A., Rural women weavers ' of Assam?: Artistic skills and entrepreneurial issues. , 5(3), pp.296-311, 2014. 2. Pradesh, U. & Tanusree, S., A Study of the Present Situation of the Traditional Handloom Weavers of. International Research Journal of Social Sciences, 4(3), pp.48-53, 2015. 3. Satyanarayana, M.,. Operational Problems of Handloom Weavers in Andhra Pradesh State - A Study of SPSR Nellore District. , 3(10), pp.61-67, 2016 4. Sultana, N., Role of Comprehensive Programmes in Development of Sircilla Powerloom Industry in Telangana State. SUMEDHA Journal of Management, 5(2016), pp.44-58, 2016. 5. Thayumanavar, B. & Shanmugapriya, T., A STUDY ON ISSUES AND CHALLENGES OF HANDLOOM WEAVER IN KONGU REGION OF TAMILNADU. International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research and Modern Education (IJMRME), 3(1), pp.340-345, 2017. Annexure Name: 1. Age ◆ Less than 20 ◆ 20 to 35 ◆ More than 35 2. Marital Status ◆ Married ◆ Unmarried 3. Type of weaving ◆ Woollen ◆ Cotton 4. Time period of doing this job ◆ Less than 1 year ◆ 1 year to 3 years ◆ 3 years to 5 years ◆ More than 5 years 5. Wages earned (monthly) ◆ Less than 2000 ◆ 2000 to 3000 May - June 2019

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◆ ◆

ESI Others 12. Type of product produced ◆ Woollen clothes ◆ Rugs ◆ Cotton sari ◆ Carpet ◆ Towel 13. According to you which is the better form of weaving? ◆ Handloom ◆ Power loom 14. What are the challenges that you face in your personal life ◆ Limited time to spend with the family ◆ Sheep farming ◆ Others 15. Did your work life affect your family life? ◆ Yes ◆ No 16. What are the challenges that you face in your work life ◆ Lag in the receipt of money from sales ◆ Unable to concentrate on work due to personal issues ❑❑❑

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3000 to 5000 More than 5000 6. Schemes provided by the government ◆ Life insurance ◆ Housing loan ◆ Scholarship for children ◆ Health insurance 7. Health issues faced by the weavers ◆ Eye pain ◆ Back pain ◆ Chest pain ◆ None of the above 8. Type of marketing technique followed ◆ Personal selling ◆ Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation ◆ Through societies 9. Work shift timings ◆ Less than 8 hour shift ◆ 8 hours shift ◆ 10 hours shift ◆ OT 10. Do you receive incentives? ◆ Yes ◆ No 11. If yes, which are they? ◆ Provident Fund

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Introspection on Regional Traditional Textiles of India into Development of Innovative Fashion Costumes Dr. Mamatha Hegde*, HOD, Dept of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Design, M.S Ramaiah University of Applied Sciences, Bangalore. Abstract The regional textiles of India include the designing on fibers, yarns and fabrics. The designing can be done in the way of dyeing, printing, embroidery, embellishments on the surface of the fabrics. Some of the regional textiles and surface embellishments are losing their originality and becoming vague in the present day due to vast industrialized output of textile and garment sectors across the world. Each state of India is having its own indigenous regional art and culture. Review on regional textiles of India such as Pashmina, Kachchh, Kullu, Naga, Panja weave, Phulkari, Chikankari, Shisha work and Kasuti is highlighted. There is a need to touch the sensibility of Global fashion clothing lovers through reviving the ancient hidden treasure of various Regions of India. Fusion of one regional ethnic designs with the other and incorporation of them in to new style is trending on the way these days. Economic and social growth can be enhanced by having introspection into the ancient wisdom and skills hidden behind the textiles and handicrafts. Novelty in design can be brought by developing new fashion. Today's fashion Industry is serving as archetypes for development of new business model for the fast moving fashion goods for consumer and the competition is growing at rapid speed globally. Keywords Economic development, Fusion, Introspection, Revival and Traditional textiles

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction The regional textiles of India includes the designing on fibers, yarns and fabrics. The designing can be done in the way of dyeing, printing, embroidery, embellishments on the surface of the fabrics. Some of the regional textiles and surface embellishments are losing their originality and becoming vague in the present day due to vast industrialized output of textile and garment sectors across the world. Each state of India is having its own indigenous regional art and culture. The techniques and methods used for regional textiles are unique in its own way. This uniqueness of workmanship in terms of type of fibre, weaving design, dyeing, printing and surface designing aspects gives value addition to the fabric. Regional textiles of Gujarat is Double Ikat, which is produced by weaving silk yarns named as 'Patola'. Earliest records of these textiles are seen in Ajanta Cave Murals of 6th century AD. This was considered very auspicious and worn on special occasions. Ikat *All correspondences shall be addressed to, Dr. Mamatha Hegde , HOD, Dept of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Design, M.S Ramaiah University of Applied Sciences, Bangalore. Email : mamathahegde.fd.ad@msruas.ac.in 20

textiles manufactured in Odisa are called "Bandhas" and woven by special community people named Mehars and Patras. Specialty of these is presence of striking colour combinations, delicate fin patterns worked on cotton and silk yarns. Ikat Textiles produced in Andhra Pradesh is called Telia Rumals and Pochampalli Ikats. Colours for Telia Rumals were terracotta red and black with other natural colours and for Pochampalli Ikats wide range of colours were used. Rajasthan is famous for bagru prints which is a mud resist block printing technique. Resist paste called Dabu which is made up of clay and gum is used for this print and later is dyed with vegetable dyes. Globally there is increase in the world apparel export in the year 2017. Regional Production and Trade Network (RPTN) is working behind the scene [10]. This is the vertical industry collaboration system between the countries which are geographically located nearby. The flow of regional textiles into the market drastically raised the demand for textiles across the world. Data from the World Trade Organization (WTO) shows that regional supply chain remains an essential feature of today's global textile and apparel trade [11]. Fashion clothing is important for overall look and values of the person and society. Clothes what we wear has lot to May - June 2019

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Government of India is trying to revive and popularize the hidden deepest heritage pertaining to textile and clothing sector. This type of introspection helps to bid the irrelevant red listed industries and promote the green sustainable apparels industries. Introspection on traditional art and revival promotes self-skill development, self-employment, and revenue generation by incorporating innovative and functional aspects as Indian textile Industry is one of the oldest industries in the world. Study of traditional art and textiles of India has become important in the overall economic development of a country. The creativity, workmanship and skill of many of this sector are extinguishing these days. So there is an urgent need to popularize the ancient hereditary crafts through a proper innovative design development with due consideration to original motifs, colour combination and patterns by providing a suitable direct market for the products. 2. Review on Regional Textiles of India Shawls 2.1 Pashmina This is a fine type of Kashmiri wool and name is originated from Persian "Pash" meaning "weavable fibre precisely wool". The fibre obtained from chyangra goat were processed, stretched and cleaned by Nomadic tribe called Changpa. The weaving of a single shawl takes a week's period. The shawl is block printed with varied designs. These are hand spun shawls, finer and thinner, worn as early as Indus valley civilization and also during Mahabharat period by emperors and noble rulers. After 18th century on words shawl became famous all over the world especially in Europeans countries. Pure pashmina is status symbol and luxury fabric and cost ranges from 7,000 to 12,000[1]. 2.2 Kachchh The shawl is traditional woven in Kutch region. In olden days Bhujodi kachchh has its roots for barter system. This is a traditional hand loom shawl worn as veil. For making this spun wool is woven on pit loom usually 2 pieces and is attached by fish stitch. Shawl is usually tie dyed with embroidery work on it. The Geographical Indication tag is been granted for Kachchh May - June 2019

shawl woven with motifs with solid colours. This tag will help 1200 weavers from 210 villages [2]. 2.3 Kullu The shawl is made in Kullu using three different types of wool ie Merino, Angora and local sheep wool. This has geometrical designs on both ends and sometimes with floral designs. The price of the shawl ranges from Rs 800 to Rs 10,000/-. Bhuttico cooperative society was set up in Kullu in 1944 to promote weavers. Stores sell the product in the trade name Bhuttico all over the world [3]. 2.4 Naga The shawl is also known as Chakshesang and has received Geographical Indication tag. The shawl has close connection with rituals and beliefs of the people. Naga tribe from Nagaland are basically Indo- Tibetan people used to make Naga shawl with red and black colours. With the stick of Bamboo warp and weft yarns are woven into a beautiful designs of linear and geometrical patterns. The main specialty of the shawl is three pieces are stitched separately and joined together having more elaborate design in the centre piece [4]. 3. Weaves and Embroidery 3.1 Panja Weave The weave is one of the India's Glorious tradition made by using cotton and wool yarns. Panja is a metallic tool is used for beating of weft threads and so this is called as Panja weave. . Weave is used for making light weight rugs and weavers usually keep the design in front while weaving. Hand spun wool dyed with ecofriendly dyes is used for making this weave [5]. 3.2 Phulkari The motifs are made up of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches producing geometrical patterns. Bagh one type of Phulkari has overall geometrical floral pattern. Untwisted silk, cotton and woolen threads are used. The colours used are Yellow, blue, white, brown, orange, violet and green. No shaded threads are used but shade effect is given by changing the direction of stitches. Stem, darning, herringbone, and satin, straight, back, running, blanket, spilt, cross and chain stitches are used. Occasionally mirrors were inserted. The Phulkari embroidery is usually done on shawls. For ceremonial occasions work was done in such a way that base cloth was not visible at all [6]. 3.3 Chikankari Motifs used are floral, leaf and paisley designs. The 21

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

communicate in terms of many varied factors as culture, customs, occasions, occupation, psycholologiy, personality etc. Imitation of fashion from elite class to lower is very much fast in these days when it is compared with the fashion of the earlier days. Fashion or trend is a style lies within and beyond the time and it keeps changing

REVIEW designs are borrowed from objects easily available and connected with daily life such as different kinds of grain. Various grades of cotton and Silk threads are used for this embroidery. The colour used is basically white on white fabric. Chickankari is used as saree borders, on saree, blouses, kurtis, collars, jhabbas, Handkerchiefs, white caps, dupattas, waistcoats, Salwarkameez and Napkins [6]. 3.4 Shisha work The motifs used for this embroidery are floral with accompanying parrots, peacocks and animal figures. The Gajasinha, the Krishna and dancing women are also used. Silk and cotton threads are mostly used. Yellow, saffron, green, orange, red, white and purple colours are used. Chain Stitch, darning, herringbone, long and interlacing stitches are used. Kutch Kathiawar embroidery are applied on Wall hangings, divan covers, bolster covers, ghagras, children caps, flare petticoats, Punjabi dresses, frocks, blouses, sarees and sofa covers[7].

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.5 Kasuti Gopuras (temple towers), Puskarini ( temple tanks), Dispastambhas, Astakola, Tulsi Vrindavanas as well as chariots and Palanquins, the cradle, the sacred bull and other familiar objects which played an important part into the normal life of the woman. The threads were drawn from the cloth itself. Mercerized cotton threads and sometime silk threads may be used. Red is prominent colour used for Kasuti embroidery. Other colours are Orange, Green, purple and all bright colours. Traditional Indian embroidery requires many different stitches as well as variations of basic stitches- Running stitch, Back Stitch, Stem Stitch, Satin Stitch, Chain Stitch, Cross Stitch Herringbone Stitch, Interlacing Stitch and Shadow Work. Kasuti embroidery can be done on blouses, skirts, sarees, bed covers, curtains, napkins, shawls, shirts, lampshades, salwarkameez and even on neck ties [7]. 3.6 Kashmiri The valley of Kashmir is one of the most beautiful natural area, so also embroidery of this place reflects nature. Bird motifs are parrot, Wood Pecker, Canary and Kingfisher. Floral motifs are lotus, lily, and tulip and saffron flower. Fruits like grapes, plums, cherries, almonds and apple blossom are used. The threads of silk, cotton and wool are used. Green, crimson red, purple, blue, yellow and white The Kashmiri embroidery can be done on table covers, sarees, bed sheets, pillow covers, sofa covers, cushion covers, petticoats, 22

Punjabi dresses, wall pieces etc.[8]. 3.7 Kutch Kathiawar The motifs used for this embroidery are floral with accompanying parrots, peacocks and animal figures. The Gajasinha, the Krishna and dancing women are also used. Silk and cotton threads are mostly used. Yellow, saffron, green, orange, red, white and purple colours are used. Chain Stitch, darning, herringbone, long and interlacing stitches are used. . Kutch Kathiawar embroidery are applied on Wall hangings, divan covers, bolster covers, ghagras, children caps, flare petticoats, Punjabi dresses, frocks, blouses, sarees and sofa covers.

Figure 3.1 : Regional Traditional Textiles of India [9]

4. Methodological Review "Think Globally, Act Locally" is the slogan of today for the World Textile Industry. Nature has provided different coloring matter of plant, animal and mineral origin for dyeing of textiles from ages. Natural dyes are considered eco-friendly and are heading towards a period of renaissance. The use of natural dyes in textile industry is gaining importance due to reasons that they are obtained from renewable resources and do not cause any health hazards. Natural dyes were only the dyes used by Indian people before the invent of synthetic dyes by scientist called Perkin in the year 1857. Blue and red Indian dyes have been renowned for millennia. Indian dyers' use of mordants was key to their mastery, which was unrivalled until the invention of western chemical dyes in the 19th century. To make patterned cloth, the dyer uses a 'resist' such as wax or string to prevent some areas turning blue, as on the May - June 2019

REVIEW spotted 19th-century turban at right. Many of the skills pertaining to handcrafts and textiles of India are at danger of loss. Hand Block Printing, Pashmina Shawls etc. It takes up to five days to thread up the loom; the warp is either white or natural coloured pashmina. Handmade shawls and scarves woven from pashmina have a long tradition [1]. In India after Independence continues efforts have been made to revive traditional art through various awareness programmes which helps in retaining and promotion of fine intricate work of a country.

lins, Himrus, Amrus, Paithani, Chaderis, Sarees, Lungis etc. can be introspected to shape the future of India since the global trade systems were formed on the export of Indian fabrics. Varied culture, geographical locations and indigenous religions of India has its own ethnic weave, motif, colour patterns and designs. Each region has variety of abundant fibre and skill resources which are extinguishing these days because of so called modernization. Accessories, decorative items, embroideries were often added novelty to most of the textiles and fashion.

Figure 4.1 : Handloom Weaving Process Figure 4.3 : Silk Cocoon on Mulbery Leaves

Figure 4.2 : Handicraft for Decoration

Indian "Cotton'' which is called King for all fibres date back to 4000BC and colouring of textiles started as early as 2500 BC. The India's finest cottons were named as "woven winds" by ancient Romans. Explorations of hand woven textiles and Sarees into development of an elegant outfit for the fast forwarding country and evolutionary humanity in sustainable way. Hand woven textiles, Ikkat, Batik, Tie and Dye, MusMay - June 2019

"Silk - called queen of fibre existed in India during Indus Valley Civilization, dating back as early as 2450BC and 2000BC. Different species of silkworm produce different types of silks. Silk is reeled from the filaments of the silkworm's cocoon and then woven. India's 'wild' silks come from the larvae of the Antheraea genus of moths, which are native to eastern and central India. Different parts of silk cocoons are used to make different textures of silk yarn. Muga silk filaments are reeled from the cocoon resulting in a smooth and shiny fabric. Eri silk cannot be reeled so the fibres are spun like wool, giving the cloth a soft rather than silky surface. Today there is need to promote the 23

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.4 : Silk Dyed Yarns

REVIEW Ahimsa Silk which is obtained after the escape of Silk moth from the cocoon which was earlier promoted by Mahatma Gandhiji. There are many varieties of Silk Brocades as Pot- thans, Mashru, Himru or Amru, Kinkwabs,Gyasar, Gyanta, Jamwar etc. In addition to these Sarees of Mysore, Kanchipuram, Banarasi, Assam are woven in distinguished style that surpasses the modern powerloom sarees in their fineness, workmanship and aesthetics[5]. 5. Innovative Fashion

Figure-5.1 Fashionable Costumes

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

As there is a need for rapid shift in the fashion of this modern age and future digital age. As the things are changing in all the sectors so also in clothing. There is a need to touch the sensibility of Global fashion clothing lovers through reviving the ancient hidden treasure of various Regions of India. Fusion of one regional ethnic designs with the other and incorporation of them in to new style is trending on the way these days. Though todays clients both in developed and developing countries are very keen in fast moving fashion they are interested in traceability and transparency in the product before the purchase order. This type of movement develops the connection between both of them. Economic and social growth can be enhanced by having introspection into the ancient wisdom and skills hidden behind the textiles and handicrafts. 6. Conclusion Traditional fabrics are pure, natural and eco-friendly. There is a great revolution in the field of textile and apparel production because eco- conscious movement of consumers. Novelty in design can be brought by developing new fashion. Today's fashion Industry is serving as archetypes for development of new business model for the fast moving fashion goods for consumer and the competition is growing at rapid speed globally. Traditionally ancient lavish embroideries were

made by flattened and crimped gold or silver threads. These metal wrapped threads are woven on a loom to create luxurious fabrics. India's drapables such as Sarees, Lungi etc. can be designed into an apparels which will have more elegant aesthetics, styles, prints, comfort, ease , eco-friendly and preferable for varied climates. References: 1. Nandini, (2016) "The Legacy of Pashmina" Retrieved on 25-07-2018,from https://www. mapsofindia. com/my-india/travel/pashmina-theart-of-kashmir 2. Kachchh Shawl Retrieved on 25-07-2018,, From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 3. Sabita Radhakrishna (2015) " Knots in History" Retrieved on 25-07-2018, https://www. thehindu. com/features/kids/the-story-of-naga-shawls 4. Richa Prakash, Sharada Devi and D. Anitha (2013), Handcrafted Shawls of Nagaland Retrieved on 23-07-2018, http://www.ijsrp.org/research-paper-0813/ijsrp-p2017.pdf 5. Craftsvilla (2017) Retrieved on 24-07-2018, " Fabric Tour of India: Discover India's Amazing Handloom Heritage" https://www.craftsvilla.com/blog/indianhandlooms-from-different-states-of-india 6. Brijibhushan Jamila, "Indian embroidery" Ministry of information and broad casting, New Delhi (1990) 7. Pandit Savitri ," Indian Embroidery its variegated charms" first edition published by the author faculty of Home Science, Baroda. (1976) 8. Rani prit "Traditional Indian Embroideries" Journal of Textile Association, (1996) pgs 149-150. 9. Textiles stocks from India - press release, Retrieved on 23-07-2018, https://www.google.co.in/ searchq=Regional+Traditional+Textiles+of+ India + image 10. Sheng Lu"How regional supply chains are shaping world textiles and apparel trade" , Nov 2018, Retrieved on 09-03-2019, https://www.juststyle.com/analysis, textile-and-apparel-trade_ id135021.aspx 11. Sheng Lu, Regional supply chain remains an important feature of global textile and apparel-trade, Nov2017, Retrieved on 09-03-2019 https://shenglu fashion.com/2017/11/27/n updatednovember -2017 ❑❑❑

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TEXPERIENCE

Productivity Essence

Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wide experience in the Textile Industry of last 48years' service in Spinning & Composite Mills. He has started his career from the supervisory level and gradually with his skill and talent in work experienc eelevated to Mill President. He has occupied the independent top authority of Vice President & President during his last 34 years' service. Mr. Yadav worked with leading industrial houses like Bharat Commerce & Industries, Bhilwara Group, Mohota Group, Suryalata, Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group (Nepal). Mr. Yadav independently started & worked successfully four new projects and renovated five mills. He established many new milestones in quality & productivity. He presented several papers in textile conferences and other meets affiliated to textile industries. He has to his credit 100+ technical & managerial papers published in textile journals and national dailies. Mr. Yadav is author of a hand book "Productivity" on strategic textile industrial management. He is recipient of Precitex award & Life Time Achievement award and Legendary Award from The Textile Association (India), M.P.Unit. He is Patron Member, The Textile Association (India) and Life Member, Indian Environmental Association.

Productivity = Total output / Total input As such to improve productivity the industry has to increase total output and decrease total input in concerned area like sales, purchase, banking and finance, stores, product, inventory, quality of product, waste, salary and wages, overhead expenses, safety and environment. The most important factor: consumption of natural resources like water, coal, oil, earth and electricity can be as less as possible. Generation of electricity consumes much of natural resources like water, coal, oil, gas, diesel etc. And as on day, though it's everybody's concern nothing is possible without electricity. Its has become a total life-line now. Final call for electricity is only the Sun, wind, sea waves and atoms. Our scientists are hopefully working on it. Now what is the role of labour discipline on productivity? It encircles health, education, skill, efficiency, obedience to seniors and guidance to juniors, attending job on time, adhering to work schedule, full attention and total attendance. Possessing all these qualities makes a labour a disciplined one. And this is the main base for standard work culture in the industry. If management is considerate and concerned to such labour practices and discipline, there will not be happenings like unionism, hooglism, chaos, strike, lock-out, running slowly etc. It paves the way for full plant utilization and maximum labour productivity. A few case studies and examples are being mentioned here with reference to textile industries. And these examples may be helpful in other industries or institutes as well either in similar shape and situation or else. A few case studies are being mentioned for practical approach. Case 1: Reliever Operators In a spinning mill in south India in 1980, there were 60 relievers per shift in winding and reeling departments. Machines were made operational for complete 8 hours in each shift. Operators were being relieved for half an

May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

R. N. Yadav

Introduction Both discipline and productivity are two sides of a coin. In the industry both are co-existent. Discipline is earnestly required for productivity other than factors like product quality, machine health, machinery type, technical parameters, environment and various management functions. Its management to see the discipline is created and maintained among workers and that should be continuously under hawk eyes. All other factors like needs, comforts, payments, guardianship, guidance, training, well-being and social welfare be complied time to time as and when required. Then only productivity can be enhanced. The productivity is a combined term for production enhancement, quality up gradation and consistency, waste reduction, cost below competition, environment friendly and safety proven workplace. In commercial term productivity is a ratio of total output upon total input.

TEXPERIENCE hour each shift for recess with a hope that production would be more as machines being run whole shift utilizing relievers. But the actuality was just reverse. Relievers least bothered for quality and production. They assumed that it was responsibility of machine operators. For any defect passed on into the yarn, supervisors and head of department will question only operators and not the relievers, as they have to relieve 8 to 12 operators as per schedule and hence responsibility for any quality damage and production loss was not theirs. And as such quality and production both were being lost due to engaging relievers. After realizing the fact, the management decided to keep winding and reeling machines idle during half an hour recess in each shift at a time. The results were encouraging. The defects receded absolutely and production increased by 3 %. The reason being simple, the machine operators were now solely responsible for quality of the product and production.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Case 2: Non-Machinist Workers Most of the mills employ jobbers, helpers, quality checkers, overlookers, floor cleaners, relievers etc. for vigilance, work correction and quality assurance. But in the long run, it all together creates jugglery, unionism, groupism, disobedience and finally they become and remain as good for nothing. On certain occasions they become negative forces. The best way to avoid such situations is never to employ indirect and non-machinist workers. Production people like supervisors, machinists or machine operators should be made solely responsible for quality, production, wastage of all category, power consumption, air, water, floor cleaning, upkeep of machinery and material, general housekeeping etc. It creates quite a good work culture and result a high scoring. In 90's, in a 25 thousand spindles capacity spinning mill in middle India the above practice was initiated at the start of the mill and the mill is still working successfully without jobbers, checkers, helpers, relievers, overlookers, can carriers, bobbin loaders, bobbincarriers, doffcarriers, floor cleaners, waste sorter, empty cleaners, marker etc. Operators weremade responsible for their requirement of materials, tools, kits etc. And they were other thanoperation to keep their machines and area around neat and clean. Over head travelling cleaners on individual machines or on group of machines were installed as per need. Even wall mounted overhead travelling cleaners were installed to clean wall sides and wall corners round the clock or on certain intervals as per need. The mill is 26

doing well still on the same formula with modernization and expansion without any labour problem. No indirect worker a panacea. Case 3: Doffing, Donning & Gaiting In 2009 in a spinning mill in north India, one spinning section was cared for complete doffing activity by 6 doffers and 6 gaitors. Doffers were removing full bobbins, Doffing and inserting empties in spindles, donning and moved to store full bobbins in doff collecting box. Then gaitors started machine and attend broken ends - gaiting. For doffing and donning 6 workers and for gaiting 6 workers; total 12 workers to complete doffing--donning--gaiting operation. Technically doffing and donning should be done simultaneously and subsequently. Immediate correct and firm insertion of empty tubes on spindles after removal of full bobbins manually by doffers results in very less end breaks when machine is started and whatever ends down be immediately attended by doffers there itself. But in that particular mill doffers were supposed to take out full bobbins, put empty tubes in spindles the way they find convenient to them and leave machine to gaitors to start it and attend the broken ends. During this very specific time machine remains idle and yarns on bottom of spindles in grip of empties get loosed. When machine is started for gaiting, there occur many more ends down. That causes more hard waste and huge doffing loss. If doffers do doffing, donning and gaiting machine is hardly non productive for 2 to 2.5 minutes. And if doffers do doffing and donning leaving gaiting by gaitors machine is idle for 6 to 10 minutes. The management studied and restructured the job making one team of 8 doffers responsible for whole doffing operation instead 12 persons in two teams. The ultimate result ◆ Compete doffing in 2.5 minutes only ◆ Starting ends down lessened ◆ Less hard waste and bonda ◆ 4 workers reduced.

Now one can see that a small change in operational system done scientifically creates a big difference in working expenses. Case 4: Too Many Engineers It has been observed that spinning mills, semi-composite mills or composite mills employ too many engineers on day to day jobs. A mill of 40 thousand spindles capacity running on cotton and cotton blends employed May - June 2019

TEXPERIENCE

Case 5: Multi-Skilled Operatives As these days, mills are installing latest version of automatic machines in all sections. A new approach is being developed to train multi-skilled workforce. For example, in a spinning mill blowroom feeder, card tenter, drawing tenter, speedframetenter and doffer can be trained on all machines from blowroom to speedframe to reduce category of operators and no reliever needed. All can be designated as preparatory attendant altogether to manage for general cleaning, feeding, waste collection and continuous operation of all machines. They also have to manage their recess etc. in rotation as per time available with right work approach. Similarly in ring-frame spiders and doffers should manage all the functions including house-keeping. Next autoconer, winding, assembly, doubling, TFO operators should be trained and developed for multi-skilled jobs on these machines. As a result one can achieve reduced number of hands, good production, better quality and too less hard waste. In certain quality based mills hard waste including all the above sections together has been achieved as less as 0.20 percent only, a miracle figure. Similar arrangement can be planned in weaving preparatory 1. Warping & sizing jobs can be clubbed together 2.

Drawers, knotters and beam gaitors jobs can be clubbed together

Loom shed workers job can be made multi-skilled for weaver, reliever, checker and running fitter.

May - June 2019

If all the jobs mentioned above are clubbed together, there can be enhancement in utilization, efficiency, quality, hard waste reduction and a huge margin in labour complement. In 2016 at a weaving unit in central India with 140 auto looms with complete preparatory, a reduction of 72 hands per day have been achieved. A record fresh packing of grey fabric was achieved to the tune of 99.2 percent. And hard waste warping to loom shed achieved as under 1. Warping

- 0.35 %

2. Sizing

- 0.45 %

3. Drawing, Knotting, Gaiting, Looms

- 0.90 %

Total

- 1.70 %

The above data is an average of the whole month. According to the day to day data, the total hard waste achieved is as low as 1.30 % on certain days. Actually its a practical, scientific and novel approach by the management to study, restudy and reapproach to each element of the operations on all the machines. Training, retraining and development of the operators are another important aspect. And job restructuring must be a routine practice. If the above three management styles are adapted holistically and made continual, any miracle is possible on the shop floor. Process house too is not an exception. Here is a story of a process house of a composite mill producing around one lakh metres of semi-bleached, bleached, dyed and prints in shorter and wider width per day will be worth the mention. a)

There were 48 designations of operatives.

No one will change his machine. He will work on his allotted machine only. As such many a times operatives were given return while some other machine is idle for want of hands. What a strange situation?

Management and labour union have an agreement likewise.

Now one can easily understand the losses of process house at various points- boiler, coal, steam, water, utility workmen, supervisory staff and many more, delay in delivery for packing and supply, fabric damage under process due to frequent stoppages of various machines. Due to wrong agreements, absenteeism and operators not working on other machines than allotted on their card were effecting production and quality very badly. Here also operators were regrouped as per 27

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

as many as 10 engineers to take care of power, electrical, electronics, civil, mechanical, utilities, air compressors, humidification etc. and a composite mill comprising 47 thousand spindles, 400 powerlooms and a process house producing 50 thousand meters fabric in bleach, dyed and prints per day, was employing 16 engineers- chief engineer to shift level. What a huge employment in engineering, really overcrowding. All making hell, creating together mess of jobs and ultimately confusing state of mind, delays work. As such it caused high cost of each and every work taken. After a deep and detailed study, the mill's management decided to reduce number of engineers and reallocated the responsibilities among remaining ones. In the spinning mill instead of 10 engineers only 2 and in the composite mill instead of 16 engineers only 3. Their responsibility and area were made overlapped and well planned. And it was found that in both the mills, work performance has improved.

TEXPERIENCE near similar type work system like shearing, singeing, desizing, washing and drying, mercerising , neutralizing and drying, dyeing &stentering, finally finishing - brushing, calendaring, sanforising etc. The management negotiated with labour union for convincing the operators in the group. It resulted in positive mode by certain adjustments, machinery reallocations, job restructuring and wages rescheduling. Management finally hired good trainer from reputed agencies and finally was successful in its approach of multi-skilled job and operators to learn and be ready to work on machines as needed. All these efforts by management though lengthy but scientific, resulted in higher machine utilization, better fabric quality, less consumption of water, steam & power and less product damage. Overall production could be increased by 12%, damage and reprocessing below 2% andragsbelow one percent. As a surprise water consumption could be reduced by 40%. Human approach and task approach can be well trusted for better management. Believe it! Case 6: Maintenance Team Certain maintenance helpers can be attached to various machines. As maintenance job is super skilled one, head fitter or foreman should be fixed with similar category or only one type of machines as per need. But group of helpers can be put up on machines of other sections too. Such as blow room, card, drawing, speed frame and ring frame can be attached to one group and autoconer, winding, doubling, TFO, reeling etc. to another group. As such two or three fitters or head fitters can take care of complete spinning mill utilizing fixed and variable helpers.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Weaving division can have two head fitters along with fixed and variable helpers to maintain compete loom shed including weaving preparatory. Process house maintenance is more on engineering section as its maintenance group has to look after electrical, electronics, water, oil, steam, hot oil supply & regulation, refused water- steam-oil collection and proper utilization of the same. Treatment of effluent is another job connected to process house maintenance. Looking to the nature of work, it is essential to keep process house maintenance from washing room to effluent treatment plant under the control of an engineer with fitter and helper's group. And the most important fact is the maintenance in all the sections to be scheduled & prevention. If the cleaning and corrective of machine number X is scheduled 28

on 14th day of the month it should be done on 14th day only. If it is practiced holistically there will be no breakdown at all. Case 7: Recess & Sleeping In many industries it has been observed that workers sleep during their recess hour and that too near the running machines or somewhere in the departments. Neither it is under discipline nor legal. Recess is supposed to be for breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner, tea etc. but surely not for sleeping. If authorities question the sleeping person, reply comes "I am in recess". But recess never permits one to sleep. As such where is the management and what about the discipline? It should be taken seriously and nobody be allowed to sleep during recess hour under any circumstances in factory area. But many management people don't take it seriously by ignorance and ultimately there is no disciplinary control and productivity starts falling down. It causes bad side effects also. Gradually union activities gain momentum, unrealistic demand surfaces and work gets slow, quality is damaged, strike, closure and chaos becomes a routine. Therefore it is suggested here that sleeping at work should never be allowed. Case 8: General Security, transport, canteen, club, play ground, colony, gardening, house-keeping, sanitation etc. should be clubbed together under control of security in charge working at & from main gate of the factory. It helps a lot. Movement of workers, materials incoming/outgoing regulate in time and in the correct way. Here is a case, workers coming inside factory at shift change. Factory shift timings are 8 AM-4PM, 4PM-12 NIGHT & 12 NIGHT-8 AM each shift of 8 hours. Workers and supervisors must reach on their work spot well before shift change to take proper charge from outgoing people. But it's not followed practically in most of the factories. Workers and supervisors are allowed to enter mill till the last second of the shift change timings. This is totally impractical and indiscipline. Everybody must enter atleast 15 to 30 minutes earlier so that to have proper check of the job and to take charges from the outgoing person. Entry should not be permitted till last second of the shift change timings. This is a very big lacuna on part of the management. No sooner, the management corrected the system as above for shift change; half the industrial discipline is achieved. No machine or job is without care for a single second which creates productivity gain. Transport, gardening, sanitation etc. when under control of security in-charge ensures May - June 2019

TEXPERIENCE 1.

Improved general works

Less number of non-productive workers

Drivers when idle can care for gardening, postal works, attendant, call-boy etc.

ers, managers, researchers, management trainees and all others concerned to manage a mill for further improvements: 1.

Always think to upgrade the production, enhance the quality, reduce all the types of wastage and specifically input wastage

No mischievousness by drivers and house-keeping staff

Each and every in/out is under the knowledge

Always raise your goals

No gossip by operatives and others in the canteen, lunch room or rest room

Be self-disciplined and make others to follow

Adapt latest technologies & techniques

Improvement in discipline and overall work culture

Study market regularly to make products accordingly for immediate sale. Make sure that your product warehouse near remains empty

Conclusion & Suggestions To sum and substance, the studies and approaches were well implemented in two composite and two spinning mills mainly by the author's own creativity and initiatives. During job restructuring and change over the human and the works approach, we're well designed and implemented. All the achievements were due to self-discipline, self-determination and team work. Such practices and changes have created better profitability in the mills continually and upgraded the face value of balance sheets. The following suggestions imminently mentioned below may help readers, lead-

Nothing is impossible if you have sufficient courage, grit and determination.

Remember a quote by Walt Disney "It's a kind of fun to do the impossible." Think, implement and move ahead. About Author R. N.Yadav Principal Consultant Aaryan Associates --- A team of Textile Technocrats Mumbai and Nagpur ❑❑❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org Follow us on

May - June 2019

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects. This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles. The previous chapter was based on the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for the electromagnetic interference shielding applications. As the electromagnetic properties, electronic and quantum phenomena are still in ever-remaining need of improvement; the chapter offered the readers a wonderful tool for EMI shielding applications. The present chapter puts some insights upon various syntheses of graphene quantum dots (GQDs); a new class of fluorescent carbon materials, which have attracted tremendous attention due to their outstanding properties and potential applications in biological, optoelectronic, and energy-related fields. Herein, top-down and bottom-up strategies for the fabrication of GQDs, mainly containing oxidative cleavage, the hydrothermal or solvothermal method, the ultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted process, electrochemical oxidation, controllable synthesis, and carbonization from small molecules or polymers, are briefly discussed.

Chapter 14 GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : Graphene Quantum Dots (Part-I) Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Graphene discovered by Novoselov et al. in 2004, is a new kind of nanomaterial with excellent mechanical, electrical, thermal, and optical properties. Till now many synthesis methods have been developed, such as micromechanical stripping, chemical vapor deposition (CVD), SiC epitaxial growth, and graphene oxide (GO) reduction. Because of the large planar conjugate structure of graphene, the? electrons have a significant delocalization effect. As a result, graphene possesses a zero band gap which is the feature of half-metallic materials, limiting its application in the fields of optoelectronic devices and semiconductors. Quantum dots, or QDs, are semiconductor nano-particles or nano-crystals, usually in the range of 2-10 nanometers (10-50 atoms) in size. Their small size and high surface-to-volume ratio affects their optical and electronic properties and makes them different from larger particles made of the same materials. Quantum dots confine the motion of conduction band electrons, valence band holes, or excitons (bound pairs of conduction band electrons and valence band holes) in all three spatial directions. Quantum dots are also sometimes referred to as 'artificial atoms', a term that emphasizes that they are a single object with bound, discrete electronic states, similarly to naturally occurring atoms or molecules. 30

Graphene quantum dots (GQDs), which are small pieces of graphene with a two-dimensional lateral size (less than 100 nm), have been developed in recent years. Ideal GQDs have a single atomic layer and only contain carbon. Actually, most of the prepared GQDs also contain oxygen and hydrogen, and often have multiple atomic layers, with sizes being less than 10 nm. The band gap energy of the GQDs can be regulated from 0 to 6 eV by changing the two-dimensional size or surface chemical properties, due to the quantum confinement effect of conjugated ?-domains and the edge effect. High-resolution transmission electron microscopy (HRTEM) observations show that the GQDs have the hexagonally symmetrical crystalline structure, and the in-plane lattice spacing of 0.24 nm, completely the same as graphene. Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) tests demonstrate that the hydrogen and oxygen in the GQDs mainly exist in the form of oxygen containing groups, such as hydroxyl, carbonyl, carboxyl, and epoxy groups. At present, a lot of research work is devoted to the surface chemical modification of the GQDs in order to regulate the properties for the applications. The main approaches involve the control of oxidation degree, surface functionalization, and heteroatom doping. May - June 2019

TEXNOTE

Besides, though the GQDs synthesized by various methods have different ultraviolet-visible absorption characteristics, the p-p* transition absorption peak ranges commonly from 200-270 nm wavelength, and the n-p* transition absorption peak is more than 260 nm. The ultraviolet-visible absorption is dependent on the size of the GQDs, due to the quantum confinement effect. In addition, oxygen-containing functional groups on the surface of the GQDs also have an important influence on the absorption peak position. In this article, the research progresses on the preparation of GQDs are reviewed. Top-down and bottom-up strategies, which mainly contain oxidative cleavage, the hydrothermal or solvothermal methods, ultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted processes, electrochemical oxidation, controllable synthesis, and carbonization from small molecules or polymers, are discussed.

Synthesis methods of GQDs The synthesis methods of the GQDs can be classified into two categories: top-down strategy and bottom-up strategy as shown in Figure 1. The former is extensive in the synthesis of GQDs because it is simple and effective. GQDs are gained from carbon materials, including graphene, fullerenes, carbon nanotubes, etc., by cutting them via chemical or physical methods, such as oxidative cleavage, hydrothermal or solvothermal method, electrochemical oxidation, ultrasonic assisted or microwave assisted process, chemical vapor deposition (CVD), and laser ablation. For the latter, GQDs are fabricated through controllable synthesis or carbonization from suitable organic molecules or polymers. The controllable synthesis is precise but complicated, May - June 2019

needing many steps of synthesis to obtain GQDs of large dimension. These formation processes are usually uncontrollable, resulting in the preparation of GQDs with polydispersity.

Figure 1: Top-down and Bottom-up techniques of GQDs synthesis

Top-down strategy Oxidative cleavage Oxidative cleavage, the most widely used method, is also known as oxidation cutting. In this method, the carbon-carbon bonds of graphene oxide (GO) or graphene are generally broken by H2SO4, HNO3, or other oxidizers. For instance, in the work of Shen et al., GO sheets with a two-dimensional size of micron grade were put in HNO3 and cut into the smaller pieces. The products were treated with surface passivation by ethylene glycol and then were reduced by hydrazine hydrate. Eventually, the GQDs with a diameter distribution from 5 to 19 nm were gained. It indicates that blue fluorescence is obtained when the light of a 365 nm wavelength is used to excite the GQDs. It is interesting that green fluorescence can be available when the light of a 980 nm wavelength is used. It demonstrates that the prepared GQDs have upconversion fluorescence properties. Via et al. presented a simple and controlled method to tune well the lateral size of GO at the nanometer scale. First, GO was synthesized from expandable graphite by the modified Hummers method. Then, GO was dispersed into deionized water followed by sonication to obtain a brown GO solution. Later, H5IO6 were added into the GO dispersion, and the mixed solution was kept at 60oC for 24 h. The precipitate was cen31

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Compared to the quantum dots of a traditional semiconductor, the GQDs possess many advantages such as, stable fluorescence properties, low toxicity, and good water solubility. Among them, the fluorescence properties are the most important feature of the GQDs. Although the photoluminescence (PL) mechanism of the GQDs can be explained by the size of the GQDs, surface chemical groups, and doping atoms, there is no universal agreement on the specific PL mechanism. The dominant PL mechanism of GQDs consists of the quantum confinement effect of conjugated ?-domains, the surface/edge state in GQDs, as well as the synergistic effect of these two factors. Their fluorescent emission wavelength can be in various regions, including deep ultraviolet light, blue light, green light, yellow light, and red light. It is attributed to the different sizes, surface functional groups, and excitation wavelength.

TEXNOTE

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trifuged out from solution and was further washed with deionized water until the supernatant was neutral. After that, sodium polystyrene sulfonate (PSS) was added into the above GO nanosheet solution and sonicated for 2 h. Finally, l-ascorbic acid (l-AA) was added into the aqueous solution and stirred at 50°C for 24 h. When the reaction ended, the colour of the solution turned from yellow to dark black, which was a visual indication that the GO nanosheets were successfully reduced into GQDs with a mixture of different sizes (5-15 nm). Oxidative cleavage or oxidation cutting is simple and effective in the preparation of GQDs, but there are some defects that the strong oxidizer used may cause burning or explosion and the post-processing is more complicated. Therefore, some new oxidation cutting methods are developed to settle the problems. For instance, Lu et al. utilized black carbon as a precursor and H2O2 as a facile oxidant and developed a simple and facile one-pot method for the synthesis of GQDs without using a strong concentrated acid, and the entire synthetic process took only 90 min. In the preparation, black carbon was utilized as a precursor, and H2O2 was used as an oxidant to cut the black carbon. The only reaction products were H2O and GQDs. Thus, the proposed synthetic method not only avoids the use of a strong concentrated acid and the introduction of metal impurity contamination but also does not need any other post-processing treatments. The mechanism proposed is that the free radicals (e.g. ·OH and ·O-), which are produced from the decomposition of H2O2, have high reactivity and strong oxidizing properties so they can oxidize and cut the graphene structure of black carbon effectively. The synthesized GQDs with diameters ranging from 3.0 to 4.5 nm have robust photostability, good resistance to salt solution, low toxicity, and excellent biocompatibility. As a satisfactory FL probe, the GQDs have been successfully applied in FL imaging of HeLa cells directly. Compared with other reported methods, it is the most green and fastest synthesis method for GQDs synthesis to date. Hydrothermal/solvothermal method The hydrothermal or solvothermal method is a simple and rapid method for the preparation of GQDs. It cut carbon materials into GQDs under the conditions of high temperature and high pressure in the process. Generally, the carbon materials need to be treated through strong oxidation before the reactions occur.

The GQDs were prepared from GO as a raw material via the hydrothermal method for the first time by Pan et al. GO was mixed in thick H2SO4/HNO3 acid for oxidation, and then, the hydrothermal reaction started under alkaline conditions for about 10 h. Eventually, the GQDs with a size distribution of 5-13 nm were gained. With the reaction mechanism, it was proposed that mixed epoxy chains composed of fewer epoxy groups and more carbonyl groups may exist in the oxidized graphene sheets (GSs). The presence of such linear defects makes the GSs fragile and readily attacked. Some ultrafine pieces surrounded by the mixed epoxy lines and/or edges may further break up during the hydrothermal deoxidization process, by which the bridging O atoms in the epoxy lines get removed, and thus, the GQDs are formed eventually. Significantly, Tian et al. reported a one-step solvothermal method for synthesizing GQDs with the application of hydrogen peroxide in a DMF environment, which introduces no impurity in the whole preparation process. Typically, a muffle furnace was first heated to 800°C for 5 h, and then, 2 g of expandable graphite in an alumina crucible was placed in a high-temperature environment for 10 s to form expanded graphite. In this step, sulfuric acid and nitric acid molecules decompose into gas and escape from the interlayer of the expanded graphite. The expanded graphite was then mixed with DMF and treated with ultrasound to remove air in the layered structure of the expanded graphite, making full contact between the solvent and the expanded graphite. Subsequently, hydrogen peroxide was added into the mixture and stirred for 5 min to form a homogeneous solution. The final mixture was transferred into an autoclave and heated up to 170°C for 5 h. The product solution was treated with vacuum filtration to obtain GQDs. The mechanism of the reaction is similar to electrochemistry exfoliation of graphite anode: water is oxidized under high redox potential to generate oxygen and hydroxyl radicals, which act as the "scissors" to cut down the graphite anode. It indicates that the diameters of the GQDs were mainly distributed in a range of 20-40 nm, and the thickness mainly falls in the range of 1-1.5 nm, corresponding to two to three graphene layers. As the excitation wavelength increases from 280 nm to 420 nm, the PL intensity increases to maximum and then decreases, while the PL peaks shift from 398 nm to 480 nm. The quantum yields of 15% in neutral conditions and good photoluminescence stability in different pH conditions are demonstrated, implying a wider application in different harsh environments. This is the first time that GQDs May - June 2019

TEXNOTE

It is noteworthy that Liu et al. reported a facile onepot synthesis method using graphite as the starting material, which can selectively obtain either pure GO or pure GQDs within 2 h, with a higher production yield (93% for GO and 10% for GQDs). In this method, the graphite powder mixed with potassium permanganate and sulfuric acid is gradually added under magnetic stirring. Then, nitric acid is introduced into the autoclave, which is heated to a certain temperature for the desired products. It proves that the size (from 50 to 2.5 nm) of the GQDs can be tuned by simply varying the ratio of graphite and potassium permanganate. The emission spectra of the 2.5 nm GOQDs demonstrate a perfect excitation-dependent photoluminescence behavior. The strong luminescence emission suggests a high luminescence yield (about 8.8%) and, sequentially, a high quality of the synthesized GOQDs. It should be mentioned that typical solvothermal methods, utilizing graphene oxide as a precursor, need more complicated processing when compared with this strategy. This onepot synthesis method has the following unique characteristics: (1) the operation procedure is simplified as the reaction happens in a sealed autoclave; (2) GO or GQDs can be selectively obtained by simply adjusting the reaction temperatures; (3) the size of the GQDs can be easily tuned from 50 to 25, 13, 5, and finally to 2.5 nm, with strong luminescence emission; (4) various carbon sources, including MWCNTs, single-walled carbon nanotubes (SWCNTs), carbon black, etc., can all be utilized for the fabrication; (5) method also allows large-scale synthesis of both pure GO and pure GQDs. Microwave assisted/ultrasonic assisted process One of the common problems in GQDs preparation is the long reaction time when the oxidative cleavage or hydrothermal/solvothermal method is used. The microwave technique, as a rapid heating method, is widely used for the preparation of nanomaterials. It not only shortens the reaction time but also improves the production yield. Accordingly, electrochemiluminescent (ECL) two-colour GQDs were fabricated by the cleavage of GO in the acidic condition via the microwave assisted method by Li et al. The oxidation reaction was shortened, and the yield was improved to around 8%. May - June 2019

Besides, the ultrasonic technique is also a commonly used method in the synthesis of GQDs. Tens of thousands of small bubbles in the liquid will form in the presence of ultrasonic waves and produce instantaneous high pressure and high energy. For instance, an environmental friendly, fast, and industrially promising method for synthesizing GQDs at a large scale was reported via an ultrasonic-assisted liquid phase exfoliation technique. The GQDs with different sizes, structures, and defects were obtained using different graphitic carbon precursors for exfoliation, and the production yield of GQDs can reach 3.8 mg/ml. In a typical preparation of GQDs, acetylene black was dispersed in N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) solvent. The dispersion was then put under mild ultrasonication for 1 h. A gray liquid containing dispersed GQDs and some residual precipitates were obtained. The precipitates were removed by centrifugation at 10,000 rpm for 30 min, obtaining a homogeneous gray dispersion of GQDs. It shows that the size distribution of GQDs is between 2 and 6 nm, and the thickness distribution is of 0.4-2 nm, indicating a monolayer to a few layers of GQDs. The GQDs exhibit strong excitation-dependent PL behavior. When excited at the wavelength range from 310 to 490 nm, the PL shows red shifts from 428 to 528 nm. It offers a new strategy for large-scale synthesis of GQDs with different contents of defects and edge structures, which can be used as the initials for further functionalization in the application of biology, electronic, energy, and engineering. Interestingly, a novel method that combined the merits of microwave assisted and ultrasonic assisted processes was reported by Luo. In the work, whitelight- emitting GQDs (WGQDs) were prepared by a facile two-step microwave-assisted hydrothermal method. The procedure is as follows: yellow-green fluorescent GQDs are synthesized beforehand through exfoliation of oxidized graphite under the ultrasonication and microwave irradiation. The GQDs show their average lateral size of 2.5 nm, and the average height of the GQDs is calculated to be about 2 nm from the AFM height image. After further reaction under microwave irradiation in alkaline solution (pH 13.0), the GQDs were converted to WGQDs with photochemical stability and nontoxicity. The WGQDs are subsequently used as a phosphor to fabricate a white-light-emitting diode (WLED) device by a solution-processing method. The WLED based on the WGQDs clearly displays better the white electroluminescence performance than that of the previously reported WLED based on the GQDs or carbon 33

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were prepared from graphite materials by hydrogen peroxide without a dialysis process. Because of the extremely low cost, good water solubility, high quantum yield, no need for dialysis for purification, and easilyobtained experiment equipment, this method shows great promise in the biomedical field and electronic device.

TEXNOTE dots. Therefore, it presents a novel method for WGQDs preparation. Electrochemical oxidation In the electrochemical oxidation method, graphite, graphene, or carbon nanotubes work as a working electrode and are oxidatively cleaved into the GQDs under high REDOX voltage (±1.5 - ±3 V). There are two approaches for the electrochemical oxidation. In one of the approaches, the carbon-carbon bonds of graphene or carbon nanotubes are directly fractured by electrochemical oxidation. In another approach the water is oxidized to turn into a hydroxyl free radical (·OH) or an oxygen free radical (O·), which can oxidatively cleave them into GQDs. The GQD solutions gained by the electrochemical oxidation method show high levels of stability, but their disadvantage is, both the pretreatment of raw materials and the purification of GQDs products take a long time. Moreover, it is difficult to realize the mass production of the GQDs because of the low product yield.

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In the study of Li et al., the graphene filter film was used as a working electrode, and the phosphate buffer solution (PBS) was utilized as the electrolyte to fabricate GQDs. The electrochemical preparation of functional GQDs was performed by the CV scan within ±3.0 V at a scan rate of 0.5 V s-1 in 0.1 m PBS. The graphene film (5 mm x 10 mm) was used as a working electrode. Pt wire and Ag/AgCl were used as counter and reference electrodes, respectively. Graphene film was prepared by filtration and treated with O2 plasma for seconds prior to the preparation of the GQDs to enhance its hydrophilicity. The water-soluble GQDs were collected after filtering and dialyzed with a cellulose ester membrane bag. The prepared GQDs have a uniform size distribution (3-5 nm), present a green luminescence, and can be retained stably in water for several months without any changes. Bottom-up strategy Controllable synthesis In this method, GQDs are synthesized from phenylcontaining compounds through stepwise controllable synthesis in the organic solvent. The as-synthesized GQDs have an accurate number of carbon atoms, uniform size, and shape. However, the preparation process includes multistep complicated chemical reactions, which are not only consumed for a long time but are also of low yield. For instance, GQDs containing 168, 132, and 170 carbon atoms were fabricated via this method by Li et al. The 2',4',6'-trialkyl phenyl 34

molecules (TPM) were connected to the edge of the GQDs in order to prevent the GQDs from reuniting. The possibility of the GQDs overlapping with each other was reduced, and the dispersibility in the organic phase was improved, because of the steric hindrance caused by TPM stretching in three-dimensional direction. It starts from small-molecule precursors, such as 3-iodo-4-bromoaniline and other substituted benzene derivatives, to synthesize two key intermediates. Subsequently, stepwise Suzuki coupling reactions lead to polyphenylene dendritic precursors which are then exposed to an excess of FeCl3 in a dichloromethane/ nitromethane mixture, yielding the graphene quantum dots. They have large extinction coefficients in a wide spectral range from UV to near-infrared and, thus, can serve as a new type of light-harvesting media for photovoltaics. This mehod demonstrates a versatile synthesis of large, stable colloidal graphene quantum dots with desired sizes and structures enabled by a new solubilization strategy. Carbonization The molecular carbonization is an environmentally friendly and facile method, which utilizes suitable organic molecules or polymers for dehydration and further carbonization. The GQDs with polydispersity are obtained because the size and the structure are difficult to be controlled precisely in this method. For instance, low-cost and high-yield green-photoluminescent single-layer graphene quantum dots (SLGQDs) were synthesized with only deionized water and glucose as a precursor via this method. In a typical synthesis, glucose powder was dissolved in deionized water. The mixture was treated in an autoclave at 200°C for 8 h. The initial liquid sample was transparent (colorless), and it changed to orange after the synthesis of SLGQDs. The mechanism is presented as follows: under the hydrothermal process, glucose molecules are dehydrated to form C=C, which is the elementary unit of the graphene structure. During the formation of the QDs, the hydrogen atoms of a glucose molecule interact with the hydroxyl groups of an adjacent glucose molecule leading to the formation of water molecules. Consequently, carbon atoms covalently interact with each other, and finally, GQDs are formed. The SLGQDs have a uniform dispersion without any apparent aggregation with an average size of about 8 nm. When the SLGQD solution is excited at wavelengths from 450 to 520 nm with an interval of 10 nm, the emission peaks of the sample at various excitation wavelengths do not shift, and the maximum emission wavelength remains at around 540 nm. It implies that both the size and the May - June 2019

TEXNOTE surface state remain uniform, and the product is green photoluminescent. This facile method is presented to prepare the SLGQDs from only glucose powder as a precursor in DI water, and shows the prominent advantages of low-cost, high-yield, and large-scale production over the reported ones. In general, the top-down strategy is extensively used in the preparation of GQDs. The GQDs are gained from carbon materials, including graphene, fullerenes, car-

bon nanotubes, etc., by cutting them via chemical or physical methods, such as oxidative cleavage, hydrothermal or solvothermal method, electrochemical oxidation, ultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted process, and laser ablation. For the bottom-up strategy, the GQDs are fabricated through controllable synthesis or carbonization from suitable organic molecule or polymers. The respective advantages and disadvantages of the different methods are summarized in Table 1.

Top-down strategy

Methods

Advantages

Disadvantages

Oxidative cleavage

It is the most widely used method, which can achieve to mass production because it is simple and effective.

Some strong oxidizer, which needs to be used may cause burning or explosion, and the post-processing process is complicated.

Hydrothermal/solvothermal Method

It is a simple and rapid method as well as environmentally friendly.

The carbon materials need to be treated through strong oxidation before the reactions happen.

Microwave assisted/ Ultrasonic assisted Process

It not only can shorten the reaction time, but also can improve the production yield. The GQDs obtained by this method show high levels of stability, and the size distribution is uniform.

Microwave/ultrasonic reactor are expensive, and the volume is limited in industrial production. Pretreatment of raw materials and the purification of GQD products take a long time. Moreover, it is difficult to realize the mass production because of the low product yield.

Controllable Synthesis

The as-prepared GQDs have accurate number of carbon atoms, uniform size and shape.

The preparation process includes multistep complicated chemical reactions, which not only consume long time but also are of low yield.

Carbonization

It is an environmentally friendly and facile method.

GQDs with polydispersity are obtained because the size and structure are difficult to be controlled precisely.

Electrochemical oxidation

Bottom-up strategy

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Table 1: The respective advantages and disadvantages of different methods.

TEXNOTE

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Summary Graphene Quantum Dots (GQDs) can be synthesized through various approaches. As discussed in this article there are many kinds of preparation methods of GQDs that are developed. The basic concept and classical method for making GQDs is cleavage of carbonaceous materials by repeated oxidation and reduction. Besides, there are other ways including controllable synthesis and carbonization. At present, the hydrothermal process using GO as a starting material to obtain GQDs is the environmentally friendly approach, and strong-acidic treatment of graphite is the method which can achieve mass production. However, the research on the GQDs is still in its early stage compared to graphene. For further development of the GQDs, we need to find more suitable techniques to prepare in a commercial scale with minimum amount of defects. Extensive practical applications and fabrications of GQDs also have a wide space of exploration for researchers which is to be covered up in the next part. Bibliography 1. Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K. Morozov S. V., Jiang D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. A. and Firsov A. A., Science, 306, 666-669, (2004). 2. Geim A. K., Science, 324, 1530-1534, (2009). 3. Novoselov K. S., Jiang D., Schedin F., Booth T. J., Khotkevich V. V., Morozov S. V. and Geim A. K., Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 102, 10451-10453, (2005). 4. Yoshihara N. and Noda M., Chemical Physics Letters, 685, 40-46, (2017). 5. Sutter P. W., Flege J. I. and Sutter E. A., Nature materials, 7, 406-411, (2008). 6. Strzelczyk R., Giusca C. E., Perrozzi F., Fioravanti G., Ottaviano L. and Kazakova O., Carbon, 122, 168-175, (2017). 7. Meric I., Han M. Y., Young A. F., Ozyilmaz B., Kim P. and Shepard K. L. Nature nanotechnology, 3, 654-659, (2008). 8. Zheng P. and Wu N., Chemistry-An Asian Journal, 12, 2343-2353, (2017).

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11. 12. 13.

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Zhu C., Yang S., Wang G., Mo R., He P., Sun J., Di Z., Yuan N., Ding J., Ding G. and Xie X., Journal of Materials Chemistry C, 3, 8810-8816, (2015). Hu C., Liu Y., Yang Y., Cui J., Huang Z., Wang Y., Yang L., Wang H., Xiao Y. and Rong J., Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 1, 39-42, (2013). Shen J., Zhu Y., Chen C., Yang X. and Li C. Chemical communications, 47, 2580-2582, (2011). Zhou C., Jiang W. and Via B. K., Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 118, 72-76, (2014). Lu Q., Wu C., Liu D., Wang H., Su W., Li H., Zhang Y. and Yao S., Green Chemistry, 19, 900904, (2017). Tetsuka H., Asahi R., Nagoya A., Okamoto K., Tajima I., Ohta R. and Okamoto A., Advanced Materials, 24, 5333-5338, (2012). Pan D., Zhang J., Li Z. and Wu M., Advanced materials, 22, 734-738, (2010). Tian R., Zhong S., Wu J., Jiang W., Shen Y. and Wang T., Optical Materials, 60, 204-208, (2016). Li L. L., Ji J., Fei R., Wang C. Z., Lu Q., Zhang J. R., Jiang L. P. and Zhu J. J., Advanced Functional Materials, 22, 2971-2979, (2012). Lu L., Zhu Y., Shi C. and Pei Y. T. Carbon, 109, 373-383, (2016). Luo Z., Qi G., Chen K., Zou M., Yuwen L., Zhang X., Huang W. and Wang L., Advanced Functional Materials, 26, 2739-2744, (2016). Wang L., Li W., Wu B., Li Z., Pan D. and Wu M. Chemical Engineering Journal, 309, 374-380, (2017). Yan X., Cui X. and Li L. S., Journal of the American Chemical Society, 132, 5944-5945, (2010). Kumar G. S., Thupakula U., Sarkar P. K. and Acharya S. RSC Advances, 5, 27711-27716, (2015). Bayat A. and Saievar-Iranizad E., Journal of Luminescence, 192, 180-183, (2017). ❑❑❑

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May - June 2019

TECHNICAL UPDATE

Development of Electronic Servo Control Drive Industrial Two for One Twister for Heavy Denier Filament Yarn Prasanta K. Panda1 & A. N. Chaudhury2 1. The Bombay Textile Research Association, LBS Marg, Ghatkopar West, Mumbai - 400 086 2. Kristeel Shinwa Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai Abstract Two for one twister (TFO) is the machine for plying of both spun yarn and filament yarns. This twisteris advantageous for the production of long length knot free yarns and higher productivity. In thisinvention, TFO twister has been designed with individual drive to traverse, take up and spindle. Drivesto the traverse mechanism consist of servo motor control mechanism. Total gear drive mechanism isreplaced with simple driving mechanism in the developed machine compared to conventional TFOtwister. This machine is able to save up to 40% of power consumption compared to existing gear drivemachine. The pot of the machine is suitable to accommodate large package of heavy denier industrialthreads. Human Machine Interface (HMI) has been attached to facilitate the easy operation in themachine.

Introduction Yarn twisting process enhances the cohesive force among the fibers. This increase in cohesivenesshelps to protect the yarn from tension generated during weaving and knitting. The two for one twister (TFO) first introduced in the textile manufacturing process for the filament twisting purpose. Recentlytwo for one twister has gained interest for plying of both spun yarn and filament yarns because of theiradvantages such as production of long length knot free yarns and higher productivity. A long lengthknot free yarn facilitates better performance in subsequent processes. This system is suitable for alltypes of yarns except very fine yarns above 80 s count. In the TFO, each rotation of the spindle insert one turn of twist in the length of yarn within the spindle,plus another turn of twist in the yarn balloon. As a result, two turns of twist are inserted into the yarnfor each rotation of the spindle; hence the name two-for-one twisting.The two-for-one twistingmachine currently offers high operational flexibility, working both with controlled and free balloons,extracting the balloon limiter [1-3]. In last three decades, many developments have been taken place in TFO twister to improve theperformance, productivity and application areas. With the improveMay - June 2019

ments in feed package and spindlezone, TFO twister can also be used to ply synthetic spun yarns and open end yarns. Development inthe winding zone is facilitating to build the soft packages for dyeing purpose. Incorporation of thepneumatic threading system is helping to save the operator time. In the conventional TFO twister, allthe drives were linked with one motor and gearbox. Machine has been developed with two gear boxinstead of one to enhance the versatility of the machine. Double gear system facilitates independent driving of the two sides using low power motors. In this system, quick adjustment in parameters ispossible [4, 5]. Besides these, still there is need of market to increase the performance of machineduring plying the heavy denier industrial threads. The ply twisting of high denier industrial threadrequires pot with large size and high twist multiplier with low power consumption. If the package isbig, consequently it requires large capacity motors to drive the spindles. Driving system of TFO twister plays an important role to enhance the performance and versatility ofthe machine. Servomotor is one of the latest technologies in the field of driving mechanism. Motorsused in automatic control system is called servomotor. Servomotors convert electrical signal in toangular displacement of a shaft. They can operate in a continuous duty or in a step duty based on theconstruction. Linear rela37

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Keywords Two for one twister, servo control motor, heavy denier industrial thread, individual drive, low powerconsumption

TECHNICAL UPDATE tionship between speed and electrical control signal, steady state stability,wide range of speed control, low mechanical and electrical inertia and fast response is possible by theservomotor drive. In this project, conventional drive arrangement with gear box has been replaced with one servo motorand two induction motor to provide drive separately to traverse, twisting and winding mechanism.Machine has been designed with servo motor drives and large size pot. Servo motor in place of gearbox drive consumes low power and bigger size pot accommodates the large size package foruninterrupted running of the machine.

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2. Materials and Methods 2.1. Materials Servo system comprises of servo motor and control panel was procured from B&R Eggelsberg,Austria. Input current and RPM of servo motor was 4.7 and 3000 respectively. 10hp, 7.5kW 3phinduction motor of 1440 rpm was procured from Hindustan electric motors, Ahmedabad, India. 03hp,2.25kW, 3ph induction motor of 960 rpm and human machine interface (HMI) to control all drive wasprocured from STEEL-O-FAB, Mumbai, India. Machine frame, servoplate, shaft, bearing housing,timing pulley were indigenously designed at kristeel Shinwa workshop. 2.2. Methods 2.2.1. Replacement of single motor gear drive mechanism In the conventional TFO twister all drive was from single large gear box and vertical shaft. Singlemotor driven gear box arrangement in the conventional TFO twister consists of (a) cam shaft assemblyshown in Figure 1, which drives the traverse rod on either side of the machine. (b) Vertical shaftassembly shown in Figure 2 which drives the gear box (c) Crossing angle gears shown in Figure 3which needs to be changed to adjust the twist per meter (TPM).Consumption of power and lubricantis more in single motor gear box arrangement. This single motor gear drive arrangement was replacedby servomotor and individual induction motor drive. Servomotor was used to drive the traversemechanism, 3hp induction motor was used to drive take up mechanism and 10hp induction motor wasused to drive the spindles. All three motors were synchronised by HMI control.

Figure 1: Cam shaft assembly of the gear box

Figure 2: Vertical shaft assembly

Figure 3: Crossing gear pairs 38

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TECHNICAL UPDATE

Figure 5 (c): Servo motor arrangement for traverse system

Figure 4. Gear diagram of motion transfer in conventional TFO twister

TFO twister consists of 12 spindle has been designed by replacing the one motor gear drive system. One 10 hp induction motor has been used to drive the spindle by tangential belt driving system. One3hp induction motor for take up and one servo control motor has been used for traverse system. Imagesof those driving system are shown in Figure 5 (a), 5 (b) and 5 (c). Schematic of driving arrangementare given in Figure 6 (a), 5 (b) and 5 (c).

Figure 6(a): Schematic of tangential drive to spindle

Figure 6(b): Schematic of take up arrangement

Figure 5 (b): 3hp motor to drive the take up system May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 5 (a): 10hp induction motor to drive the spindle

Figure 6(c): Schematic of Servo motor traverse mechanism 39

TECHNICAL UPDATE In the developed TFO twister, there is arrangement of three individual motor to drive the three different mechanisms. All the motors are synchronised to Human Machine Interface electronic panel. Anychanges in the parameter such as revolution per minute, twist per meter and traverse width can be donethrough the panel, where as in the conventional system, any changes in parameter need to change thepinion in the gearing system.

Second page of the HMI is shown in Figure 7(b). In this page, yarn twist per meter (TPM), twistdirection and yarn denier can be set directly during the operation. Third page of the HMI demonstratedin Figure7(c) display the running parameters such as spindle motor RPM, spindle motor pulleydiameter,spindle whorl diameter, number of spindle, take up motor RPM, take up drum diameter,delivery motor pulley and delivery shaft pulley teeth of the machine during operation.

Spindle speed range in developed machine can be varied between 1000 to 5000 RPM (Revolution perMinute) without changing any wheel. In the existing machine depends on motor pulley diameter andspindle whorl diameter. Spindle RPM = Motor RPM Ă&#x2014; Motor pulley diameter/ Spindle whorl diameter Twist per Meter (TPM) can be changed from 40 to 1000 in developed machine compared to 40 to 700in existing machine. The changes in parameter can be controlled electronically in developed machinewhereas existing machine needs manual setting and wheel change. 2.2.2. Human Machine Interface Panel (HMI) The Human Machine Interface panel in developed machine consists of three pages. First page of theHMI is shown in Figure 7(a). In this page, spindle speed, yarn take up speed and strokes per minutecan be feddirectly as per the requirement.

Figure 7(c): Third page of the HMI panel

2.3. Result and discussion During initial trial, over loading of the machine was observed with 1 kW of servomotor so it waschanged to 2 kW. By using 2 kW motor, over loading problem was eliminated but cross winding inthe package was observed during package formation. This problem was solved by shifting the motorfrom one corner of the machine to the middle of the machine and changing the direct drive with suitablegear assembly. Developed 12 spindle prototype machine and similar 12 spindle conventional machine were operatedwith full load at different revolution per minute to compare the power consumption and packageproperty. Details about the parameter and current intake by both the machine are given below in Table1(a), 1(b) and 1(c).

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Table 1(a): Input Ampere value at 2000 RPM

Parameters

Developed Machine

Spindle speed (RPM)

2000

2042

Twist per meter

Yarn denier

1000

No. of sections

No. of spindles

Input Ampere

1.8

2.4

Figure 7 (a): First page of HMI panel

Figure 7(b): Second page of the HMI panel 40

May - June 2019

TECHNICAL UPDATE motor. Package holder pot size can be usedbetween 190 to 260 mm.

Table 1(b): Input Ampere value at 2600 RPM

Developed Machine

Spindle speed (RPM)

2600

2500

Twist per meter

Yarn denier

1000

No. of sections

No. of spindles

Input Ampere

2.5

3.25

Table 1(c): Input Ampere value at 3200 RPM

Parameters

Developed Machine

Spindle speed (RPM)

3200

3185

Twist per meter

Yarn denier

1000

No. of sections

No. of spindles

Input Ampere

3.25

4.16

3. Conclusion Two for one twister is successfully developed with electronic control servomotor drive. Single motorgear drive mechanism in conventional machine is replaced by independent drive to take up, spindleand traverse. Traverse mechanism was driven by electronically control servomotor. Reduction inpower consumption by developed machine was found 39%. Maintenance time is less compared toconventional one due to absence of gear drive system. Package holder pot size can be increased up to260mm. Lower twist per meter (TPM) up to 20 is also possible All the process parameter control anddisplay in the machine is possible through human machine interface electronic panel. Performance andefficiency of the developed machine is higher than the conventional single motor gear driven machinedue to almost nilstoppage time for changing revolution per minute (RPM), TPM, overfeed etc whilechanging the lot. Acknowledgement We acknowledge The Ministry of Textile, Government of India, for funding this project.

The average input current in developed servo motor base machine is 2.51A and in conventionalmachine is 3.27A. Power consumption by the machine is I2R where I = input current and R = resistance.The power consumption by developed machine is (3.25) 2R= 10.56 R Watt and by the conventionalmachine is (4.16) 2R= 17.30 R Watt. Resistance offered by the two machines is similar so powerconsumption per unit resistance is 10.56 W and 17.3 W by developed machine and conventionalmachine respectively. Reduction in power consumption is 6.74 W. This is about 39% reduction inpower consumption afterusing electronic control servo

References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Oxtoby, E., Spun Yarn Technology, Butterworths publication USA, 1987,65. Lorenz, R., Textile Progress 16(112), 1987. Lunenschloss, J., Farber, K., Textile Paraxis International, 36(6), 1981, 650. Mehtani, J.G, Singh, C.P, ATIRA Communications on Textile, 29(2), 1995, 45. Kleinhaust, E, Textile Paraxis International, 33(6), 1978, 667. ❑❑❑

ADVERTISE IN

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Parameters

TECHNICAL UPDATE

Green Innovation in Textile Processing Deshpande R. H. & Deshpande V. R. Nijananda Innovative solutions, Ichalkaranji. Dist. Kolhapur Wet - Processing of Cotton fabrics is considered as most polluting industry which includes preparatory, colouration and finishing processes. Desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization, washing are the unit operations involved in woven preparatory section. Due to severe dosages of chemicals, high temperature used, huge time of boiling and high water consumption, the processes are not economical as well as eco-friendly since it consumes a lot of natural resources. Generally the pre-treatment process sequence used in textile process house is Desize - Hot wash- Scour- Hot washes- Peroxide bleach - Hot washes- Dry- Mercer or Grey mercerize - Hot wash- Scour - Hot washes Peroxide bleach - Hot washes.

Researched based innovative process application details are as follows: The padding of grey with NanofabTM 1333- 10 GPL and Caustic soda-280 Tw.

Holding time 12 to 18 hours

Load on CBR/JIGGER with NanofabTM 3355 (11.5% owf) with peroxide & stabilizer in presence of caustic

Nijananda Innovative Solutions has come out with two research based revolutionary innovative products namely Nanofab 1333TM and Nanofab 3355 TM. Mentioned research-based products are very much suitable for Batch or pad batch as well as for continuous setup. Nanofab 1333TM is pure nano molecules that converts the chemical structure of the cotton fiber from alpha and beta-cellulose mixture to a thermodynamically cellulose II polymorph within a fraction of seconds. Alpha and beta-cellulose polysaccharide chains are stabilized by intramolecular hydrogen bonds and ultimately this causes an increase in the surface area, reflectance and gives extraordinary softness.

Fabric is ready for dyeing/printing with better qualities. Now RFD is ready better than the mercerizing method with very less water, less chemicalconsumption and energy. Advantages of the system are: ◆ ◆ ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

NanofabTM 3355 is processed with graphene, nano oxides of metal and polymers. This research oriented product is designed to enable the industry transformation from conventional textile cotton pretreatment process to modern environment-friendly systems to a new generation. NanofabTM 3355 assists it's corresponding counterpart product NanofabTM 1333 after caustic treatment at the time of boiling wash out. NanofabTM 3355 create stabilization of intermolecular hydrogen bond and remove natural wax and remaining of cotton fibrous impurities. NanofabTM 3355 assist NanofabTM 1333 for luster, compactness and increase dye affinity. It also assist treated cotton for improving fastness to washing, rubbing and light when dyed.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Low processing cost. Half processing time. 4-time production that will minimize the chemical cost of processing 100% elimination of desizing process and elimination of sizing sludge on CRP and ETPplant. 100% elimination of mercerizing process. No multiple drying required. Substantial saving in caustic soda which will benefit in effluent treatment to minimizeTDS. Reduced lead time of processing. Great saving in investment cost, water, energy and chemical cost. Better robustness and reproducibility.

For more details kindly contact: Nijananda Innovative Solutions, Ichalkaranji, Dist. Kolhapur - 416 115, Mobile: 9923421408, 9970052897, 8830893978. ❑❑❑ May - June 2019

NEWS

A world-first, introducing the 100% Merino wool boardshort Lifestyle brand Outerknown - the brainchild of surf legend Kelly Slater and designer John Moore - has created the world's first boardshort crafted from 100% Australian Merino wool. Merino wool is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradablefibregrown from the simple blend of sunshine, water, grass and air. For the lifestyle of the nomadic surfer that the Outerknown brand was created for, the innovative product truly is from nature, for nature.

"We love collaborating with like-minded brands to push boundaries and charter new territories in sustainable design," said Kelly Slater, Pro-surfer and Outerknown Co-Founder. "The Woolmark Company's long-time dedication to authenticity, fibre quality and supply chain excellence naturally aligns with Outerknown's ethos, and we're so excited to launch the world's first Merino wool trunks together." Developed with The Woolmark Company, Outerknown'sWoolarooboardshortis a throwback to the golden age of surfing, when trunks were considered equipment and made from a heavy twill fabric. Now, thanks to innovations in fibre, fabric and manufacturing techniques, a high-performance weather resistant fabric made from 100% Australian Merino wool hits the surf, with a strong environmental mission. "In our constant quest to push the limits of sustainable design and responsible innovation, we partnered with

The Woolmark Company to make the first ever 100% Merino wool boardshort," said Creative Director, John Moore. "This trunk is for a man with a keen sense of nostalgia, who puts style and soul on the same plain as function and quality. We've been wearing the Woolaroo since its early development and it's soft yet strong and the more you wear them in, the better they look." Made entirely out of nature's original performance fibre, Merino wool's natural benefits come into their own in the world-first Woolaroo. Naturally breathable and resistant to odour, the Woolaroo is quick-drying and wind resistant for post-surf comfort and the fibre's natural softness and drapeoffers freedom to move in the waves and on the sand. Using the latest OptimTMspinning techniques, Merino wool fibres are pre-stretched and spun into yarn before being woven to create the fabric used in Outerknown'sWoolaroo. The fabric then super contracts creating a highly compact fabric and the 'jammed' weave structure delivers a resilient handle able to withstand surf conditions. "The Woolaroo perfectly sums up the soul of Merino wool," says The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. "Soft on skin but tough enough to handle the elements, wool is not only the world's oldest fibre but also the most technically advanced, with modern manufacturing techniques making the best even better. The first of its kind in the world, Outerknown'sWoolaroo is redefining the way we wear wool." The Woolaroo is available at www.outerknown.com/ woolaroo and select retail locations starting Monday, June 10th and will retail for $125 USD.

HUNTSMAN Textile effects joins ZDHC foundation as contributor and reaffirms commitment to environmental protection Accelerating change through collective industry effort Huntsman Textile Effects is a proud member of the Global Chemical Industry Round Table initiative (GCIRT) and is very happy to announce today our decision to join the ZDHC Foundation as a contributor. We will be uploading our key products onto the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module and support the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) and May - June 2019

the related "pyramid" conformity system designed to eliminate duplicative approaches. This is the fundamental base to the success of ZDHC and all stakeholders of the textile value chain. Huntsman Textile Effects will actively engage in various task forces focused on supporting the continuous improvement programs of ZDHC. As such Huntsman Textile Effects, together with the GCIRT Initiative, look forward to a close and open cooperation with all stakeholders of ZDHC. "As one of the world's leading chemical suppliers of sustainable textile dyes, we take a proactive approach 43

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

HUNTSMAN Textile effects joins ZDHC foundation

NEWS in reducing the industry's environmental footprint and eliminating hazardous chemicals. The collaboration with ZDHC is an important step in our journey towards a clean, compliant, ethical and thriving textile industry," said Rohit Aggarwal, President, Huntsman Textile Effects. Huntsman Textile Effects has had a long-standing commitment to sustainability through continuous innovation and collaboration across the industry. An inclusive and holistic approach that considers the impact of Huntsman's operations on the ecosystem, economy and

society at large, and ensures compliance to industry regulation and standards, is vital to driving sustainability across the textile value chain. In alignment with other chemical suppliers in the industry, Huntsman Textile Effects reaffirms its commitment to sustainable chemistry and the elimination of hazardous chemicals. More details of the Joint announcement of GCIRT and ZDHC: https://www.roadmaptozero.com/news/post/zdhc-foundation-welcomes-broad-chemical-industry-engagement/

A.T.E. tie up with Power Heat Set A.T.E. to provide high quality carpet heat setting machinery through tie up with Power-Heat-Set, Germany Power-Heat-Set GmbH, Germany, has joined hands with A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited, Indiafor the sales and marketing of carpet yarn heat setting machines in India.

With an experience of more than four decades in the manufacturing and supply of carpet heat setting machinery, Power-Heat-Set's machines are known for their reliability and flexibility. Power-Heat-Set's range includes various versions of their well-proven GVA and HiPerSet carpet yarn heat setting machines that are manufactured at Toeging, near Munich, Germany. Their R&D department focuses on constantly improving the quality, productivity, and energy savings of the machines being made by them. A.T.E. has more than 80 years of experience in the Indian textile industry and provides end-to-end solutions across the textile value chain. Its domain knowledge and relationships have made it a sought after partner in carpet manufacturing machinery.

PHS-GVA+-carpet-yarn-heat-setting-machine

A.T.E. ties-up with L端scher Technologies AG, Switzerland

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited, India, has joined hands with L端scher Technologies AG, Switzerland, for sales and marketing of UV laser direct exposing units for rotary screens in India.

the-art imaging systems for various printing technologies, and caters to the graphic arts and textile industries. Backed by around 73 years of experience, L端scher manufactures many kinds of cutting-edge equipment. One of these is the state-of-the-art UV laser diode direct exposing system, model - JetScreen DX round. It uses the latest technology - UV laser diode 405nm, having an optical system with resolution from 600 1200 dpi. These diodes are designed to consume low energy and are long lasting with an average life of 20,000 hours.

JetScreenDX2309596

L端scher Technologies, Obstalden/Switzerland, founded in 1946, is a leading global manufacturer of state-of44

A.T.E. with over 80 years of experience in the Indian textile industry is a domain expert in textile processing providing end-to-end solutions. With this partnership, A.T.E. brings yet another innovative technology to the Indian textile industry, which will provide a sustainable competitive advantage in their business. May - June 2019

NEWS

APPARELCONNECT 2019 celebrates huge success Apparel Connect 2019 was organized by Sure-com Media, Apparel connect 2019 and apparel Logistics on 16th May, 2019 at Shangri La's Eros hotel, New Delhi. Conference was attended by more than 200 apparel and Logistics professionals from around the country and abroad. Five intriguing panel discussions were held in the conference which touched each and every aspects of India's Apparel supply chain.

for the traditional buyer-seller the trade service be made accessible so that goods reach safer and faster? The panel saw eminent speakers, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Managing Director, TT Ltd.; Mr. Vijay Kumar, Head, Logistics, ITC Limited;

Dr. Anil Chinnabhandar, Senior Vice President, retail Planning and Supply Chain, Landmark Group; Mr. Vijay Kumar, Head Logistics, ITC Limited; and MsSmitiSuri, Publisher, Surecom Media. Mr. N. Sivasailam addressed the conference in the inaugural session. He informed that India is now a member of TIR, a convention and protocol for road transport, which was signed in January, 2019. It is now possible for Indian trucks to go to Europe via land route. He said that the Multimodal Act is being recasted and that it is entirely based on the industry's suggestions. He added that logistics is a key issue as far as apparels are concerned, and that the apparel industry is important because it addresses the core requirement of logistics to provide access. The Ist panel discussion of the conference titled "Transformation: Supplier-Buyer Connect" covered the topics. What are the evolving models for the long term and more sustainable businesses? What is the future May - June 2019

Mr. Sanjay K. Jain said that associations are the bridge between the government and industry. "In the apparel sector, 80 er sent of our exports are MSME, which means less than 10 Cr. Of turnover. The MSME don't have a website to land up and search for the required information; moreover the circulars are extensive without any highlight on the most crucial information and aspects, therefore they don't understand or miss out on the relevant content," informed Mr. Jain. Advocating on behalf of the industry, Mr. Jain urged the Indian government to consider the creation of a website wherein every association can be enrolled and registered. Whenever any circular notice is being published, an e-mailer can direct everyone to the relevant information apart from the link available on the website, making everyone cognizant of the latest information and updates on the apparel sector. This will serve the purpose of information dissemination among the industry on all important aspects of performance, sales, revenues, taxes and trade analytics in the apparel industry." In the 2nd panel discussion, Mr. Rajiv Pande, President, PERF by Rahman group; Mr. ArvindOberoi, General Manager, Sourcing and Merchandising, Impulse; Mr. M. Srinivasan, Vice President, Planning & Supply Chain, V-Mart Retail; Mr. Sudhir Gupta, Head, 45

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Ajeet Kumar, Director, Surecom Media provided the opening remarks and noted the organization's commitment to delivering first-rate logistics conferences from CONNECT series of conferences, to the entire industry. The conference was inaugurated with the lighting of lamp by the dignitaries Mr. N. Sivasailam, Special Secretary, Logistics, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Govt. of India;

Dr. RoopakVasishtha,CEO & DG, Apparel Made-Ups & Home Furnishings Sector Skill Council; and Dr. M. G. ThamizhValavan, Commissioner (Investigation Custom), Central Board of Indirect Taxes and Customs, Department of Revenue, Ministry of finance.

NEWS Buying and Merchandising, Sourcing & retail Planning, ITC Ltd.; Dr. Anil Chinnabhandar, Senior Vice President, Retail Planning & supply Chain, Landmark Group; and MsSheetal Kapoor, Joint Managing Director, SHR Lifestyles, debated on the subject "Asia - From a sourcing hub to a Fashion Destination". Many new details came to limelight including. How exports will be able to overcome issues like time gap and how will retailers develop their vendors in this ever expanding market.

Mr. Anil Channabhandar informed that International retailers coming to India will open more new opportunities for the Indian market. Mr. Channabhandar said "We are exploiting the opportunities of international retailers coming to India and trying to share their design and business strategies which will actually help build further efficiency, competency and excitement for retailers.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

We are able to introduce international designs, international fashion in Tier II, III and IV segments which is ultimately going to create huge opportunity for the younger generation. International merchants along with trying to sell a lot of their merchandise are incorporating a lot of Indian design elements into their overall merchandising and so on. Indian ethnic prints are getting into western styling. Today, most international retailer wants to include the ethnic wear concept of India."

The post lunch session kicked off with the 3rd panel discussion on "How Supply Chain is getting reconfigured post GST for the Textile/Garment Industry", Industry leaders who took to the stage were Mr. Sunil Arora, Vice President. The Air Cargo agents Association of India (ACAAI); Mr. Ratnesh Singh, Retail Head, Perfect Lifestyles; Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President, The Textile Association (India); and Mr. Varija Bajaj, Founder, Varija Lifestyles. Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President, The Textile Association (India); and Mr. Varija Bajaj, Founder, Varija Lifestyles. The value-adding points that emerged during the discussion were digital commerce accelerated the retail business, demand driven industry offers customers a low price range, GST has been helpful for the overall sector bringing down the overall tax burden etc. During the session, Mr. T. K. Sengupta proved quite vocal informing that the export scenario for garment in India has fallen since May 2017 to 13.5% monthly. The overall production from May-December 2018 has been 10.4%. "Bangladesh is now on 2nd position following China in exporting garments and India has fallen to the 5th position. Bangladesh is very much committed to their apparel business since 80% of the country's total economy is dependent on textile. The productivity of their workers is also double than that of Indian workers" stated Mr. Sengupta. The 4th panel discussion of the conference "Key trends that are impacting the Apparel Logistics Market"brought on stage by Mr. KomalGangaramani, Senior Logistics Analyst, Origin Planning & Operations, Gap Inc, Global Supply Chain; MsDeepaSureka, Managing Director, Taanz Fashions; Mr. A. K. Jain, GM, Commercial, Orient Craft; Mr. Pankaj Singh, Director, Shopzo Brand; Mr. DinakarMalladi, Vice President, Corporate Affairs, Kerry Indev Logistics; and Mr. KekuBomiGazdar, Chief Executive Officer, AAI Cargo Logistics and Allied Services Company Limited. The panel briefed on the bottlenecks and opportunities in the current system and on the evolving technological landscape such as the rapidly growing adoption of radio frequency identification (RFID) tags in the apparel industry. Mr. KomalGangaramani said that RFID can add to a very good personalized customer experience. "The chip inside a garment helps the customer to find the different colours and sizes that are available not just on one location but on multiple locations as well. With that, customer's overall time is going to be saved. Apart

May - June 2019

NEWS from this, RFID is also owing to the need for better tracking of goods," added Mr. Gangaramani.

are challenged by these issues. Technology will undeniably fail if infrastructure is not up to our suit."

The 5th and the last panel discussion witnessed professionals and specialists from the field, Mr. Sunil Arora, Vice President, The Air Cargo Agents Association of India (ACAAI); Mr. Bhanu Dora, General Manager, Pearl Global Industries; Mr. AnimeshSaxena, Managing Director, Neetee Clothing; and Mr. PrashantBatra, Retail Head, Taanz Fashions, sharing their knowledge and expertise on the topic "Mastering Apparel Supply Chains." The panel stressed on the vital role that technology plays in the sector, and that positioning the right infrastructure has been a challenge and therefore associations, freight forwarders and logistics service providers alike must be pro-active to confront the government on the prevailing issues so as to map out logistics that need to be closely aligned with a company's manufacturing and commercial strategies. Commenting on the crucial aspect of shipping delays impacting the metabolism of fast fashion, Mr. Bhanu Dora said that "Although technology plays a vital role, the challenges unfold because of the lack of infrastructure, the ports don't function, and sometimes we also need to face road and truck restrictions. Here, overcoming the manual intervention becomes the bigger picture. Speed and efficiency takes a back once we

With this, the conference's objective of sharing information and networking was met. Each panel was crafted with dexterity to make each panelist supplement the objective of overall knowledge sharing for the topic of respective panel. This event had a great success and audience enthusiasm and positive spirit helped to make the participation both productive and fun.

BRÜCKNER on ITMA 2019 70 years of success through innovation

Today, it is no longer just a question of machines, but rather of automation and control systems. The topic of digitization and Industry 4.0 opens up completely new possibilities for increasing productivity, reducing the use of resources and improving quality. In addition, an increasing shortage of skilled workers can be addressed by more intelligent software.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

For 70 years, BRÜCKNER has been the worldwide partner for all companies which are drying, coating and finishing web-shaped materials: whether clothing fabrics, nonwovens, carpet, glass or coatings - the variety of materials to be processed has never been limited.

BRUECKNER Sanfor line

BRÜCKNER has invested, developed and implemented a lot in this area in recent years: ◆

Intelligent assistance systems monitor the machine settings in the background and provide the machine operator with information on how to run the

May - June 2019

Entry zone of the new VNE2 multi-layer stenter 47

NEWS system even more productively and consuming less resources. Studies have shown that optimizing production parameters can increase production speed by up to 40% and/or reduce energy consumption by up to 30%.

minimum application technology and another important component in the finishing of denim fabrics is the proven BRÜCKNER Sanfor line POWER-SHRINK, which will be presented at this trade fair. The specialists at ITMA will be happy to provide further information.

◆

A newly developed simulation tool helps to optimize existing recipes. The many machine parameters to be set have been reduced to the essentials and can in future be calculated automatically on the basis of the textile key data.

◆

For the service, there is a new maintenance tool that proactively gives the machine operator or maintenance department service instructions that can be tracked in a logbook. In future, a newly developed online service platform will support our customers with all service inquiries. The technicians communicate directly with the customer via video conferencing - partly with augmented reality. Documents such as circuit diagrams or maintenance manuals can be viewed and explained together and spare parts can be ordered directly. For regular maintenance processes, photo or video illustrations can be stored in local language. Technically caused downtimes can be significantly reduced by these new systems. This increases system availability and thus productivity.

BRÜCKNER can offer new concepts in the field of continuous dyeing. The continuously improved POWERINFRATHERM IR pre-dryer has heating and cooling times of less than 5 seconds. The stripe-free drying burner segments made of special metal fibre and the large temperature control range ensure the consistent and reproducible high fabric quality.

◆

The exchange of machine data with higher-level control station or ERP systems is easily possible with OPC-UA. This allows to rationalize processes in the textile factory and to monitor the quality.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In addition to these efforts in the field of automation, BRÜCKNER also demonstrates the great diversity of their experience and product portfolio. This diversity and consulting competence have been built up over many years of innovation. For example, BRÜCKNER has invested a lot in the denim sector and has also increased its personnel. The German market leader offers integrated finishing systems for pigment dyeing, synthetic resin finishing and coating: All components from the entry area, padder, IR pre-dryer, minimum application unit, coating unit, stenter, curing / hotflue, cooling, to the exit area are available from the market leader and systems supplier BRÜCKNER. Top-dyeing or finishing of both sides of the fabric is usually carried out with the BRÜCKNER padder. Onesided functionalization or dyeing is carried out with the minimum application unit. The experts from BRÜCKNER answer any question and are happy to explain the advantages of the respective processes.

The BRÜCKNER POWER-COLORTHERM Hotflue ensures uniform drying of the fabric over the entire width of the chambers. Even with narrow fabric webs on a wider machine, the dyeing results are optimal. Due to the symmetrical design and the inverter-controlled fans, the uniform air distribution through the upper and lower nozzles makes a volume adjustment via mechanical flaps superfluous. Optionally available are patented, driven special spreading rollers for creasefree operation with sensitive fabrics (stripe satin / percale / weft-elastic fabric) as well as a highly effective, fully automatic roller cleaning system. The BRÜCKNER specialists in Barcelona are also available to answer your questions in this area and will be pleased to advise you. BRÜCKNER also has something new to offer in the field of multi-layer stenters. Multi-layer stenters are mostly used where little space is available. They are suitable for finishing woven or dimensionally stable knitted fabric, nonwovens, needle felt, and technical textiles or for the wool industry. With the new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME VNE multi-layer stenter, only one machine operator is required, as the entry and the exit are on the same machine side. This applies both to the version with two and with six fabric passages. The new VNE machine concept offers the highest possible power density on a small floor space or a long air flow section in a very confined space. The dryer is equipped with BRÜCKNER's patented split-flow air circulation system and the alternating arrangement in each half compartment additionally ensures optimum and uniform air circulation and thermal treatment of the fabric. Another advantage is the completely lubricant-free fabric transport chain of the multi-layer stenter, because in this version there is absolutely no oil in the dryer interior.

Particularly noteworthy is the economical finishing with 48

May - June 2019

NEWS

Colorjet to Launch 16 Head Vastrajet® Digital Textile Printer at ITMA 2019 Colorjet to launch Vastrajet®- 8164 digital textile printer with 16 heads Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest technological innovation called AiS™ ColorJet will also show high-speed Metro-8166 with speeds of up to 294 sq. metre per hour

aimed to increase productivity, performance, and reliability, which ultimately resulted in a product whose performance increased by up to 70 percent from its predecessor, making it one of the fastest printers in the market in this category," he added

Building up on the success of the Vastrajet®- 8824, ColorJet India Ltd, the biggest Indian manufacturer of digital printers is launching Vastrajet®- 8164, a digital textile printer with 16 heads at ITMA Barcelona 2019 in Hall-3, Stall B-102. The advanced, high speed direct to fabric printer Vastrajet®- 8164 has the ability to become a commercial winner by providing users with outstanding performance, increased productivity, superior printing accuracy with minimal maintenance needs.

ColorJet supplies the very best in digital textile technologies in the industry, whereby, ColorJet printers have production speeds whichare 45% more than the nearest competition, takes up 47% lesser space and consumes 42% less power as compared to other machines. Additionally, other digital textile printers consume 51 times more water as compared to ColorJet printers, making it the most sought after brand with its products starting at $59,000.These improvements and the development of AiS™technology is further proof of ColorJet's commitment to address the global digital textile printingindustry's most urgent needs.

◆ ◆

The latest Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest technological innovation from ColorJet -AiS™(Adaptive Ink System). The AiS™ provides the customerflexibility to use ink of their choice to address his various issues of logistics, procurement, colour consistency, etc.ColorJet has always strived to support their partners by bringing technological modifications by fine tuning the machine as per the inks.The new Vastrajet®- 8164 also comes equipped with AIVC™ technology which provides consistent print performance at varying environmental conditions. With these technological innovations and additional refinements, the Vastrajet®- 8164 is in true sense, a commercial winner."Being the leader of textile digital printing industry in India it comes as aresponsibility for us to create state of the art products while keeping in mind the demands of the customers and ColorJet is dedicated to being at the forefront of fulfilling customer needs," Jitender Pal Singh Vice President (Textiles) at ColorJet India said. "When developing the Vastrajet® 8164, our R&D team May - June 2019

ColorJet will also be demonstrating itshigh-speed Metro8166 which delivers industrial-level production with speeds of up to 294 sq. metre per hour. The Metro8166 will be operated at ITMA 2019 on reactive ink, whereas the Vastrajet®- 8164 will be run on pigment ink on cotton blended fabrics.As per the latest IDC report with more than 34% market share in India, which is the second fastest growing digital textile printing industry in the world, ColorJet gears up to command a strong position in the textile industry globally.

ColorJet India markets its products in 25 countries worldwide and has installed and implemented over 4,000 of its printing solutions and productsacross 450 cities around the world backed by a strong 278-member team, of which almost 100 are in technical related functions. For more information please contact: Ms. Kareena Choudhary Marketing Manager ColorJet India LimitedIndia Cell: +91 9910090306 Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Visit: www.colorjetgroup.com. Ms. Kareena Choudhary Marketing Manager ColorJet India LimitedIndia Cell: +91 9910090306 Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Colorjet to Launch 16 Head Vastrajet Digital Textile Printer 49

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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NEWS

Danti Paolo manufactures state-of-the-art brush/sueding machines Danti Paolo brush/sueding machine model S1000NM for high quality peaching effect on woven fabrics Introduction Danti Paolo, Italy, is a leading manufacturer of textile finishing machines. Backed by a vast experience of over 80 years, Danti Paolo manufactures state-of-theart brush/sueding machines, raising machines, shearing machines, and polishing machines. A.T.E. has been representing Danti Paolo in India since 2016 to provide the latest technology textile finishing machines to the Indian textile industry. Danti Paolo machines are manufactured using high quality components like electronics from Siemens, bearings from SKF and first quality steel.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Peaching effect The peaching effect is basically a surface abrasion that gives the fabric a touch and feel similar to the skin of a peach: a soft hairy feeling, but without any hair. Peaching has become a popular trend for various types of fabrics such as for clothing, technical textiles, and upholstery. The process of abrading the fabric surface to obtain the peaching effect is mainly done by two types of tools: ◆ Emery: Normal emery (replaced by diamond emery in the last 10 years) removes a layer of fabric, attaching all those fibres present at the same level. It is used for heavier peach effect. ◆ Abrasive brushes: Available in carbon, ceramic and other abrasive materials, these brushes give a softer effect and a more delicate peaching look. Because of the different characteristics of these processing tools, most of the machinery manufacturers offer two different kinds of machines: one machine using only emery rollers and the other machine using only abrasive brushes. Brush/sueding machine S1000NM Danti Paolo started manufacturing emery machines in the early '70s and towards the end of the '90s they also introduced abrasive brush-based finishing machines. Through continuous improvements and developments in the machine/technology, the company introduced the latest model S1000NM brush/sueding machine, combining diamond emery roller and abrasive brush. This 50

machine was developed based on customer feedback and hence is perfectly designed to meet all customer requirements. Some of the issues faced in the conventional machines such loss of tear strength, colour shade variation, and pilling effect are squarely addressed in this machine, leading to high quality output. Features: ◆ 6 independent units, composed of: Abrasive brush or diamond emery roller, independently driven by inverter Approaching roller to set the contact of the fabric with the abrasive brush or diamond emery roller Individual dust suction box for effective removal of dust 4 dancing rollers/load cells for a perfect control of the fabric tension in every point of the machine. 6 positions of the brushes are interchangeable as per the customer requirement. Inspection platform to check the fabric before rolling on A-frame Remote troubleshooting by smartphone Advantages: ◆ High flexibility due to 6 independent units that can be controlled separately and equipped with abrasive brushes and diamond emery rollers ◆ High productivity due to more efficient use of the brushes or of the diamond emery rollers ◆ High quality as a result of constant control of the fabric tension in every point of the machine ◆ Reliability due to high quality electronics and troubleshooting by smartphone ◆ Possibility to process one or both faces of the fabric in one passage of the fabric from the machine ◆ Simple operation ◆ Easy to troubleshoot ◆ One single machine, instead of two different machines ◆ High efficiency

Texttreasure Reason, Observation, and Experience; The Holy Trinity of Science. -Robert Green Ingersoll May - June 2019

NEWS The fabric passage of the machine

Many Danti Paolo Brush/sueding machines S1000NM are already installed and working satisfactorily at the following mills in India:

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Aarti International, Ludhiana BKS Textiles, Erode Dashmesh Weaving and Dyeing Mills, Ludhiana Kudu Knit Process -Ludhiana Ginza Industries, Surat Shiva Texyarn, Coimbatore PC Color Soft Fabrics, Kolkata

With numerous benefits, the Danti Paolo brush/sueding machine S1000NM is rapidly gaining wide acceptability with many customers are switching to this latest technology machine.

One of Europe's largest denim producer, CandianiSpA has won the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, held in conjunction with ITMA 2019. Its innovative product, Candiani Re-Gen is a 'circular denim' fabric created from regenerated and recycled raw materials. Fifty per cent of the Re-Gen fabric comprises Tencel x RefibraLyocell made of pulp from cotton scraps and wood pulp using Lenzing's efficient closed-loop process; the other 50% consists of post-industrial recycled Candianifibres. Candiani's fabrics are also dyed using green technologies, resulting in substantial reduction in the use of water and chemicals in the fabric production and jean washing process. According to Mr. Alberto Candiani, President of CandianiSpA, the fabric was created to commemorate Candiani's 80th anniversary. He said, "We are a strong believer in sustainability. In creating the Re-Gen fabric, we leveraged Lenzing'sTencelLyocellfibres with Refibra technology, and combined it with our inhouse expertise to create an innovative product that is fashionable and environmentally friendly at the same time." Nominated for the award by ITMA 2019 exhibitor Lenzing Ag, CandianiSpA received the trophy from CEMATEX president Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, at a presentation ceremony on the opening day of ITMA 2019. Mr. Mayer said, "We would like to congratulate both Candiani and Lenzing for their excellent collaboration. CEMATEX launched the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in 2015 as we would like to encourage greater industry collaboration and synergies, as well as spur more research and development efforts. Ultimately, we need innovation to drive our business and contribute to a more circular economy." The two other finalists of the ITMA Industry Excellence Award - Levi Strauss & Co, and Lee - were also praised for their efforts to introduce green innovations May - June 2019

into their products and processes. Winner of the first ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in 2015, Levi Strauss & Co launched FLX Customisation Studio which revolutionalises in-store customisation by allowing customers to pick their denim finish and create a unique pair of jeans in less than two hours. The mobile studio uses sustainable garment finishing technologies and operates on 100% recycled water. It leverages ITMA exhibitor Jeanologia's water recycling system, H2Zero. Established denim jeans brand Lee leverages Tonello's innovative garment finishing system for its denim jeans. The All-in-One System combines four technologies that drastically reduces the water needed in the finishing stages of jean manufacturing thus reducing processing time and total production cost. Research & Innovation Excellence Award The ITMA Research & Innovation (R&I) Excellence Award for Master's students of R&I Pavilion exhibiting institutions is won by Mathias Zidda, InstitutFürTextiltechnik, RWTH Aachen University for his thesis: Development of a gear driven 3D rotational braiding machine and its control concept. He receives prize money of 10,000 euros. The first runner up is MsSarika Sunil Borikar of D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute (thesis: Sanitary Napkin: A Greener Approach), followed by Ms Pamela Massaccesi of Universidad De Buenos Aires (thesis: TUTTI - Reusable Food Wrapping). The ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award is one of the components of ITMA Innovation Lab which brands a series of activities promoting research and innovation. Other components are the Research and Innovation Pavilion, Speakers Platform and the Innovation Video Showcase. 51

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DENIM maker Candiani SPA Clinches ITMA 2019 Sustainable innovation Award

NEWS

Electrostatic mysteries unraveled Electrostatic charges can cause a number of issues during textile production, such as dust attraction, shocks, sparks etc. These in turn can lead to potentially hazardous situations due to discomfort to operators and even fires, as well as annoyances such as frequent interruptions in production due to stoppages, reduced sliver/yarn evenness, quality issues on yarns and fabric etc. Hence, such bothersome electrostatic charges need to be neutralised. To address these problems, Valence offers many solutions for measurement and removal of static charges.

for generating electrostatic charges for localised and linear charging applications. Valence's range of electrostatic control solutions are suitable for textile applications such as: 1. Carding: During carding, an oscillating comb or rotary brush combs or a roller take off fibre from the doffing cylinder. This process creates a large amount of static on the fibres, resulting in them clinging at the receiving part and in the delivery section. Static charges can reduce machine speeds and result in frequent stoppages which result in loss of productivity. This can be easily prevented with Valence's Valstat® active static eliminating bars. 2.

Warping: In warping, static charges are generated on yarns and filaments due to unwinding and separation of fibres from the bobbins while passing through (contact) and coming out (separation) of the eyelets and combs. The machine has to be then slowed down to avoid breakage of the yarn or filament, poor warping, and overlapping of the yarn or filament on the warp beam. Valence's Valstat® active static eliminating bars will enhance productivity by effectively neutralising the static charges on the fibres.

Beam sizing: Static charges are generated on the yarn in the sizing process. This result in operator hazard, adhesion to the rollers, contamination, web wander, etc.

Batching and plaiting: During the batching or plaiting processes on a stenter and other fabric processing machines, static charges are generated on the fabric due to contact and separation of fabric from rolls and changes in temperature. Excessive static charges on fabrics causes the fabric to adhere to the rollers, web wander, and dust attraction, improper plaiting, etc. These issues can be addressed by the Valence's Valstat® active static eliminating bars.

J scrays etc: Valstat®antistatic bars eliminate is-

Valence provides a range of electrostatic control solutions: 1. Active static charge eliminators: These bars have a row of electrodes across the active length. Positiveions are produced during the positive half cycle and negative ions during the negative half cycle of the power supply. These ions neutralise the charges of opposite polarity on a fast moving target.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Static charge monitoring: The magnitude and directions of the electrostatic charges need to be measured for taking the most effective preventive measures. Valence's static charge meter is a compact, highly sensitive electrostatic surface voltmeter which is designed to locate and measure surface voltage on stationary and moving objects, people and equipment. It measures both the magnitude and polarity of charges. Electrostatic charging: A Valstat® charging electrode and high voltage (HV) generator together provide a compact, sturdy, and efficient system

May - June 2019

NEWS sues like adhesion of fabric to rollers, operator hazard, dust attraction, etc., in the J scrays of stenters, drying ranges, printing machines, sanforisers, or mercerisers. For creating controlled levels of electrostatic charges in certain textile processes, Valence offers electrostatic charging electrodes powered by high voltage (HV) DC charging generators. Flocking: Through a rotary flock hopper, flocks fall freely onto a fabric. This results in the clogging of flocks and an uneven layer of the fibres on the fabric, eventually leading to rejection. The Valence ValstatÂŽ HV charging generator creates a controlled high voltage that is supplied to the grid. This HV induces the appropriate electrostatic charges to the flocks and orients the flocks perpendicularly when they fall. This ensures a dense and pile-like finish. Apart from these, Valence's electrostatic control solutions can be effectively used in other textile applications such as peaching machines, fabric inspection and folding machines, compacting machines, draw frames, and others.

Mr. Ashok Sethuram, Director, Valence Electrons, said, "A.T.E.'s presence in the textile market for over eight decades has helped to build a close and constant connect with OEMs and end users. It enables us to better understand customer requirements. This learning in turn has given an impetus to our product development efforts. We have a strong hardware and software development team working closely with application specialists, who ensure that a 'close fit' solution is found for improving productivity, safety and quality. We are proud to say that all our products are not only manufactured but also designed in India, ensuring high quality import substitutes at affordable costs. Also, our pan-India aftersales service team provides prompt service. We are an ISO 9001:2015 certified organization and work towards continual development. The textile industry in India has evolved, and is forever on the lookout for thoughtful and sophisticated engineering to compete effectively at a global level. In addition, safety, health and environment concerns are getting more and more important." Headquartered in Bengaluru, India, Valence Electrons is an A.T.E. Group company that provides world-class indigenous solutions for managing static electricity, ink handling, surface cleaning, and heat recovery in various industrial applications. Valence Electrons' is committed to providing innovative, customer-driven, and cost-effective solutions to the Indian textile industry for improving productivity, safety and quality.

Mr. Ashok Sethuram Director, Valence Electrons

A.T.E. GITS Ichalkaranji Global Textile Forum INDIA ITME 2020 ISTE ITMACH ITME AFRICA Lakshmi Machine Works Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. May - June 2019

A-7 A-9 A-4 A-8 A-2 A-10 A-11 A-1 A-12

Reliance Industries Ltd. Rieter India Ltd. (Components) SOURCE India Thymas Electronics Pvt. Ltd. Trutzschler India Unitech Techmech Vibrant Terry Towel Worldex India Exh. & Promotion Reliance Industries Ltd.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX Cover 1 Cover 2 A-3 PA-5 Cover 4 A-6 Cover3 Cover 1 53

NEWS

Felicitation of Hon'ble Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit organised Felicitation function for Shri H. S. Patel, Member of Parliament of LokSabha Election 2019 on 29th June, 2019 at Dinesh Hall, Ahmedabad. Shri HasmukhbhaiSomabhai Patel, President of the Textile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit wined LokSabha Election 2019 from Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat with margin of 4,34,330 votes.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

At the felicitation function Shri T. L. Patel, Past President, The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit; Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel,Member of Parliament;Chief GuestShri PradeepsinhJadeja,Hon'ble Home Minister (Gujarat State), Guest of HonourShri Shankerbhai R. Patel,Chairman - Green Environment Services Co-op Society Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat; and Shri Ashok Bhagat, Vice President, The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unitwere on the dais.Function started with the lightening of the lamp by Chief Guest and dignitaries.

Shri T. L. Patel, Past President, The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit welcomed all the dignitaries and the present audience. He briefed in his welcome address about the Textile Association (India) and the TAI Ahmedabad Unit. A short video film was displayed showing the activities of TAI and the developments of Dinesh Hall. He welcomed Shri ShriHasmukhbhai S. Patel, Member of Parliament; Chief Guest Shri PradeepsinhJadeja, Hon'ble Home Minister (Gujarat State), Guest of Honour Shri Shankerbhai R. Patel, Chairman - Green Environment Services Co-op Society Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat with the floral bouquet and memento. Shri T. L. Patel briefed about Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel and for his scaling heights in the political field. He mentioned that Shri H. S. Patel, textile diploma in Textile Manufacturing has involved in different kind of social activities even he started his own business.

May - June 2019

NEWS

Guest of Honour Shri Shankerbhai R. Patel, Chairman - Green Environment Services Co-op Society Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat congratulated Shri Hasmukhbhai Patel for winning with big margin as Member of Parliament and requested him to pursue the problems and the need of Gujarat region in the Sansad. Chief Guest Shri PradeepsinhJadeja, Hon'ble Home Minister (Gujarat State) congratulated Shri Hasmukhbhai. He mentioned the Shri Hasmukhbhai is very dynamic young, sincere, hardworking and honest

in his work and for this quality nature he was selected as Member of Parliament from Gujarat. He further mentioned that Shri Hasmukhbhai will surely fulfill his tenure successfully.

Thereafter, Shri Hasmukhbhai thanked the Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit for organizing this Felicitation Function and also thanked all for showing confidence and faith on him electing for LokSabha Election 2019. He further briefed about his journey from Textile qualification to owner of textile industry and then in the field of politics. He emphasized on the responsibility and the hard work which is very difficult to deliver. Now as a Member of Parliament it will be more for Nation along with Gujarat State. For the felicitation function more than 700 members including industrialists, well-wishers, members of various Organizations & Associations were present to congratulate and bless to Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel. Lastly, Shri Ashok Bhagat proposed a vote of thanks.

Raise your profile in global technical textiles May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri Hasmukhbhai Patel was Municipal Councilor, Ahmedabad during 2005 to 2010, Chairman, Estate Management Committee for 2.5 Years, Chairman, Water Supply & Sewage Committee for 2.5 Years. Then he was MLA, AmraiwadiVidhansabha, Gujarat during 2012 to 2017 and now he is MP (Member of Parliament) from Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat State.

NEWS

Heartily Congratulations to Shri H. S. Patel

Shri Hasmukhbhai Somabhai Patel elected as Member of Parliament (BJP) from Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat. Shri Hasmukhbhai Somabhai Patel, President of the Textile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit wined LokSabha Election 2019 from Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat with margin of 4,34,330 votes. Shri H. S. Patel did diploma in Textile Manufacturing from RCTI, Ahmedabad in 1982. After education he involved different kind of social activities even he started his own business as he is a textile technocrats. Presently he is Director of NainitaCotspinPvt. Ltd. In between he was also taken keen interest in political Activities. Since 2005 he joined as Municipal Councillor, Ahmedabad and today he is MP (Member of Parliament) of Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat.

Political Responsibilities: 1. 2005 to 2010 Municipal Councillor, Ahmedabad ◆ Chairman, Estate Management Committee2.5 Yrs. ◆ Chairman, Water Supply & Sewage Committee- 2.5 Yrs. 2. 2010 to 2015 Municipal Councillor, Ahmedabad ◆ Chairman, Housing Improvement & EWS 2.5 Yrs. 3. 2012 to 2017 as a MLA, AmraiwadiVidhansabha, Gujarat 4. 2017 to May 2019 as a MLA, AmraiwadiVidhansabha, Gujarat. 5. June 2019 to till date as a MP (Member of Parliament) Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat Additional Responsibilities: 1. Trustee - Bharat VikasParisad, Vatva Branch, Ahmedabad. 2. President- The Textile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit. 3. Governing Council Member - The Textile Association (India) 4. Member - SakhSamiti, Kalupur Bank, Kathwada Branch, Ahmedabad. 5. Former Director- The Green Environment Services Co-op Society Ltd., GIDC Vatva, Ahmedabad. All members of The Textile Association (India) heartily congratulate toShri HasmukhbhaiSomabhai Patel, President, the Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Solutions That Can Enhance Your Brand Add life to your business ideas with our Brand Building Solutions 56

May - June 2019

NEWS

Innovate or die - TMAS at ITMA 2019

The forward-looking attitude of the Swedish companies is perhaps best summed up by ReimarWesterlind, the owner, since 1961, of ACG Gruppen. At the age of 90, Reimar still travels to his office every day to oversee the operations of the diverse companies operating under the ACG umbrella. "Everything now is about automation and digitisation," he says. "We have to be on that track or we will be lost - innovate or die." Robotics One ACG Gruppen company moving rapidly forward with new innovations in this area is ACG Kinna, which at ITMA 2019 will be providing dramatic live demonstrations of its new robotic pillow filling system. This has the ability to fill and finish some 3,840 pillows per eight-hour shift, which is a considerable improvement on what is currently possible with existing systems, resulting in significant savings in both labour and energy for busy home textile businesses. May - June 2019

"There has been much talk about the potential of Industry 4.0 enabled by advanced software, but I believe we are at the forefront of pioneering it in the textile industry," says ACG Kinna CEO Christian Moore. "The use of robotics is now standard across many industries dealing in solid goods, but the handling of soft materials such as textiles is a little more complex. Nevertheless, we have already begun commercial shipments of our new system and we believe it will make a real splash at ITMA 2019." "Successful Swedish brands such as IKEA and H&M ensure that we are constantly on our toes and this latest technological breakthrough from ACG Kinna Automatic is a good example of how Industry 4.0 is helping our companies to further develop their products," adds TMAS Secretary General Therese PremlerAndersson. "The latest Eton Systems concepts for fully automated work flows in finished garments and textilebased products are another strong example of this." At ITMA 2019, Eton will be demonstrating a complete material handling solution with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process. "Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries," says Eton's Sales and Commercial Director Roger RyrlĂŠn. Sensors Advanced senor developments are playing a large part in moving many areas of the textile industry forward too. Eltex of Sweden, for example, is achieving considerable success with its yarn fault detection and tension monitoring systems across a range of sectors, including the tufting of carpets, the creeling of woven materials and even the production of woven reinforcements for the composites industry. "Unlike scanning inspection systems, we are monitoring each individual yarn position in real time," says Eltexmanaging director Brian Hicks. "As a consequence, we have concentrated on the further miniaturisation of 57

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A focus on customer service, aligned with the drive to constantly innovate, has long ensured that the member companies of TMAS - the Swedish texile machinery manufacturers' association - stay well ahead of the curve. "All of the Swedish textile machinery companies are doing really well in major markets such as Europe, China, India and the USA," says TMAS Secretary General Therese PremlerTMAS Secretary General Therese Andersson. "They PremlerAndersson are now gathering forces to prepare for the most important show - ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in June. I expect to see new players and partnerships as we enter the industry 4.0 era for real. We are ready to display an even higher degree of the real time monitoring of processes, automation, flexible customisation, and the incorporation of robots into production lines. Our customers expect a lot of in terms of knowledge and our ability to customise and offer turnkey solutions."

NEWS our sensors, as will be demonstrated at ITMA 2019."

visibility of pad loading, chemical usage etc.

At successive ITMA shows, IRO AB has also consistently introduced new milestones in the field of yarn feeding technology for weaving machines, and ITMA 2019 will be no exception.

"We are immensely proud to be launching the TexCoat G4 at ITMA 2019," says Eric Norling, Baldwin's segment leader for precision application technology. "This is an opportunity to assess innovation-enhancing productivity, while saving valuable resources and contributing to a sustainable future. The TexCoat G4 can process a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as water-repellents, softeners, antimicrobial and more."

"Following significant investment in our R&D capabilities, we have been making great progress in further boosting the efficiency and performance of our expanding X3 range," says IRO AB Managing Director and Chairman of TMAS Mikael Ă&#x201E;remann. "I can't remember a time since the 1980s when we had so many new innovations to unveil at an ITMA, and I'm greatly looking forward to the positive response to them we are anticipating in Barcelona this June." Resource savings

Other TMAS companies exhibiting in Barcelona include Texo AB, whose wide-width weaving looms make the belts for machines on which half of the world's paper is made, ES-Automatex, which specialises in bespoke automation concepts and Svegea, a company leading the field in a number colarette machines and cutting and slitting equipment. "At the last ITMA in 2015 in Milan, there was much talk about Industry 4.0 technologies but certainly from the perspective of TMAS, ITMA 2019 will be the place for concrete solutions as to how data and the new tools we have available can be exploited to the full," says Therese Premler-Andersson. "There is already much more networking between the companies, with software very much the enabler and common interfaces bringing ideas closer together. We are greatly looking forward to further exchanges of ideas when meeting with customers old and new in Barcelona."

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R: (Clockwise):Texo AB wide-width weaving technology, Baldwin's new TexCoat G4, the latest bias cutting system for technical textiles from Svegea, Eton's advanced material handling solutions, the Eltex EYE yarn fault detection system on a synthetic grass line, and robotic handling from ACG Kinna.

ITMA 2019 will meanwhile see the launch of TexCoat G4 - the next generation of Baldwin Technology's noncontact precision application system for fabric finishing. The TexCoat G4 enables a continuously high-quality and productive textile finishing process with zero chemistry waste and minimised water and energy consumption. The non-contact spray technology brings a range of advantages including single or double-sided application, the elimination of Foulard bath contamination, low wet pick-up levels leading to the elimination of drying steps, zero chemistry waste in changeovers of chemistry, colour or fabric, and the possibility of batch reporting, 58

Members of the Textile Machinery Association of Sweden at ITMA 2019: ACG Kinna Automatic AB Baldwin Technology AB Eltex of Sweden AB ES Automatex Solution AB Eton Systems AB IRO AB Svegea of Sweden AB Texo AB

H3 H2 H4 H3 H2 H4 H3 H5

D239 A204 B102 C250 A214 A206b D250 A101

kinnaautomatic.com baldwintech.com eltex.se automatex.com etonsystems.com iroab.com svegea.se texo.se

For further information please contact: Therese PremlerAndersson, TMAS Box 5510, 114 85 Stockholm, Sweden Phone: +46 8-782 08 50 E-mail: tmas@tebab.com www.tmas.se

May - June 2019

NEWS

International Business News

Passenger vehicles sales fell 17.4% in May compared to the same month last year, following a 17.7% decline in April, according to wholesale data from the China Association of Automobile Manufacturers. In the overall market, vehicle sales fell 16.4% in May, their fastest year-on-year decline on record, mainly due to a sharp drop in sales of commercial vehicles such as buses and trucks, which fell 11.8%, the association said. China's passenger vehicle market shrunk for the first time since the 1990s last year, due to a reduction in subsidies for buyers and an economic slowdown which knocked consumer confidence, hitting revenue for the world's largest carmakers such as GM and Volkswagen. GM's China sales decreased 17.5% in the first quarter of 2019. Huawei asks Verizon to pay over $1 billion for 230 patents Huawei Technologies Co Ltd has told Verizon Communications Inc that the US carrier should pay licensing fees for more than 230 of the Chinese telecoms equipment maker's patents and in aggregate is seeking more than $1 billion, reported Reuters. Verizon should pay to "solve the patent licensing issue," a Huawei intellectual property licensing executive wrote in February, reported the Wall Street Journal. The patents cover network equipment for more than 20 of the company's vendors including major US tech firms but those vendors would indemnify Verizon, Reuters sources said. Companies involved, including Verizon have notified the US government as the dispute comes amid a growing trade feud between China and the United States. The White House Office of Management and Budget has told the US Congress it will now meet a two-year deadline to ban federal contracts with companies that do business with Chinese telecoms giant Huawei, as May - June 2019

part of a defense law passed last year, according to a letter seen by Reuters. "Congress has made it clear in recent days the importance of implementing the law within the two years provided, and we will," Russ Vought, the acting director of OMB, said in the letter addressed to Senator James Inhofe, chairman of the Senate Armed Services Committee. China's credit growth edges up in May Chinese banks made more loans in May to counter slowing economic growth, but demand for business credit remained sluggish and suggested the need for further policy easing, reported Caixin. In May, banks made RMB 1.18 trillion ($170.5 billion) in net new loans, up from RMB 1.02 trillion in the previous month, according to the data. Of the RMB 1.18 trillion, 56.1%, or RMB 662.5 billion, went to the household sector, up from April's 51.5%. China's total social financing, a broad measure of credit and liquidity in the economy, grew by a net RMB 1.4 trillion in May, slightly higher than a net increase of RMB 1.36 trillion the month before, according to central bank data. China speeds up introduction of credit-scoring system China said it is speeding up the establishment of a credit-scoring system for market entities, vowing to stringently protect commercial secrets and personal privacy, according to a State Council announcement, said the Wall Street Journal. The Chinese cabinet agreed at the meeting that the country will establish, in accordance with the law, authoritative, unified and accessible credit records of all market players based on their unified social credit codes. Government departments are required to share the information as permitted by law to break the information monopoly and information storing. No government agencies should repeatedly ask market players to provide the same information that can be shared. The Chinese cabinet said it is also working on a blacklist of dishonest market entities and will punish them accordingly until they are forced out of the market. The system will also be powered by the internet and big-data technologies, it said. 59

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

China's car sales plunge in May China's car sales fell by nearly a fifth in May as consumers in the world's largest vehicle market remain reluctant to make new purchases due to new emissions rules and concerns over the slowing economy, reported the Financial Times.

NEWS Separately, the State Council pledged to sign free trade agreements with more countries and regions. It also plans to expand a cross-border e-commerce pilot program as part of an effort to boost exports. China infrastructure stocks climb as Beijing offers support Chinese infrastructure-related stocks jumped on Tuesday after Beijing encouraged local governments to use special bonds for major projects in a bid to support economic growth, said the Financial Times. The CSI 300 index of Shanghai and Shenzhen-listed companies was up 2.3% to a near four-week high at the lunch break on Tuesday as construction and railway stocks posted the largest gains. State news agency Xinhua said on Monday that local

governments and financial institutions were "encouraged to use special bonds and other market-based financing methods to support key areas and major projects." "Amid renewed trade uncertainty, these new measures that are being introduced to support infrastructure investment demonstrate the government's incremental efforts to counter downside risks, by mitigating any financing bottleneck for infrastructure investment in the coming months," said Goldman Sachs economists. For your information. Compiled & Sourced by Mr. Arvind Sinha President 2018-2020 Global Textile Welfare Association

ITMA 2019 sets new record with biggest number of exhibitors

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Since its launch in 1951, ITMA has enjoyed wide industry recognition as the world's largest textile and garment technology exhibition. This year's exhibition in Barcelona sees its reputation solidify further with the largest gathering of exhibitors in its history. The record number of exhibitors totaling 1,717 from 45 countries has set a new milestone.

innovate and launch new technologies and solutions. We are glad that ITMA has been providing a reputable platform for textile machinery manufacturers to market their innovations. This has enabled us to record the largest number of exhibitors in ITMA's history." The exhibits are showcased over 114,500 square metres of net exhibit space, a 9 per cent increase over the previous edition in 2015. The exhibition occupies all nine halls of the Gran Via venue, including the space under the linkway. To allow more companies to participate, many exhibitors were allocated lesser stand space than what they had originally applied for. Mr. Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, organiser of ITMA 2019 enthused: "The exhibition would have been larger if we had not turned away applicants due to a lack of space. Unfortunately, we could not accommodate a wait-list of about 250 applicants who booked some 8,200 square metres."

Speaking at the press conference on the opening day of the 18th edition of the exhibition, Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, President of the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), said: "The global economy is still facing challenges, accentuated by trade tensions and disruption. However, textile being the world's oldest manufacturing industry has demonstrated its resilience over the years.

He added: "ITMA has also evolved into a more international exhibition with a rich diversity of technology offerings from both East and West. Almost half of the total number of exhibitors are from non CEMATEX countries. This augurs well for the development of ITMA into a definitive textile and garment platform for the industry."

"This is also the spirit of our exhibitors who continually 60

May - June 2019

NEWS

Reflecting the international composition of the participants, the largest number of exhibitors are from Italy (364 exhibitors), China (276 exhibitors), Germany (222 exhibitors), India (169 exhibitors) and Turkey (164 exhibitors). CEMATEX countries continue to occupy the largest exhibit space, taking up 65% of the total net exhibit space. Italy booked 26% of the space, followed by Germany which booked 18%. The top non-CEMATEX countries are: Turkey with 9%, China with 8%, and India with 5% of the space booked. Product sectors Visitors can expect to source a wide range of integrated solutions across the entire value chain in 19 exhibit sectors. Printing, which has seen many advances being made in the last few years, is an exciting growth sector. Chalking up a 38 per cent increase in the number of exhibitors compared with the previous exhibition, it is one of the top five sectors at ITMA 2019: ◆

Finishing - 325 exhibitors

◆

Spinning - 281 exhibitors

◆

Weaving - 182 exhibitors

◆

Printing - 157 exhibitors

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Knitting - 136 exhibitors

crease of 27 per cent in number of exhibitors as compared with ITMA 2015." Completing the entire value chain is the showcase on fibres, yarn and fabrics. The addition of innovative fabrics in the fibre and yarn chapter at ITMA further completes the sourcing experience for buyers. Focus on innovation The theme of ITMA 2019 is 'Innovating the World of Textiles'. To support the innovation drive, CEMATEX has introduced the ITMA Innovation Lab. A new umbrella branding of a series of activities, the Lab includes the Research and Innovation Pavilion, ITMA Speakers Platform, ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award and Innovation Video Showcase. Speakers from the industry have been invited to share their perspectives and experiences at the Speakers Platform which will be held from 21 to 25 June. A finance forum will also be held on 21 June. Co-located events and industry engagement To encourage the exchange of knowledge, collaboration and networking, several events are staged alongside ITMA 2019. The ITMA-EDANA Nonwovens Forum and Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum have met with overwhelming response and seats have been added. Similar strong response has also been received by partner events, including the Better Cotton Initiative Seminar, European Digital Textile Conference, TexSummit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manufacturer Forum and Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

Nonwovens and technical textiles sectors due to their wide range of applications continue to be an important sector at ITMA 2019. Garment making, which has been impacted by digitalization and fast fashion, is also making a bigger impact at ITMA.

"The series of co-located events is part of ITMA's outreach programme to engage industry partners and to create an inclusive platform for the global textile and garment community. We have over 190 international, regional and local organisations lending their support to our exhibition," Mr Mayer said.

Mr. Mayer said, "We are extremely pleased to bring garment technology back in focus at ITMA. While ITMA has been traditionally strong in textile making technologies, we are glad that we are able to present garment making solutions from some of the world's most renowned technology providers. There is an in-

ITMA 2019 is held at Fira de Barcelona Gran Via venue till 26 June. The opening hours are from 10.00am to 6.00pm daily, except 26 June when the exhibition will end at 4.00pm. For more information, please visit www.itma.com or download the ITMA 2019 app.

JTA : An effective marketing tool for strengthening business promotion May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

International participation Of the total number of exhibitors, over half are from CEMATEX countries; the balance comprising companies from other parts of Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the Americas.

NEWS

ITMA Countdown - Focus Industry 4.0 Herzog: Organic start of Industry 4.0 scenarios with an app Mahlo: Better production results with digital help Lindauer DORNIER: An addition to personalized services During VDMA press conference themed "ITMA countdown"in Frankfurt, speakers from member companies Lindauer DORNIER, Herzog and Mahloshowed how Industry 4.0 solutions are going to impact the textile process chain and what technologies visitors can expect to see at ITMA 2019. The products examples of the respective companies made clear that Industry 4.0 is no end in itself but helps to improve production processes and results and supplements the range of services. Organic start with an app Dr. Janpeter Horn, CEO of Herzog, the leading company in braiding technology, introduced the company's latest Industry 4.0. Product: An app-box with which the customer can easily access the data of Herzog and other machines, e.g. on a PLC (Programmable Logic Controller). The data can be visualised on dashboards created by the customer on terminals or others. The data can be processed, e.g. by creating key figures, alarms or analyses. Dr. Horn said: "Starting with Industry 4.0 does not necessarily mean to end up in a huge project and to employ software and consultant teams. We are offering an organic start into Industry 4.0 scenarios."

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

To realise this lean approach, the solution makes use of cloud technologies on the shop floor; open source technologies for inexpensive apps; no internet connection is necessary. The main advantage however is the "oneclick" installation of apps which have been applicable only for smartphones and tablets. Better production results with digital help According to Rainer Mestermann, Managing Director of Mahlo, collecting and processing data for better production results is a basic idea of Industry 4.0. Mahlo develops and produces measurement and control equipment for the textile and nonwoven industry. A new platform from Mahlo realises the ideas of Industry 4.0 with digital technologies. In the digitization concept for all Mahlo products, the functionalities are grouped, optimized and standardized as "services". This results in modular hardware and software function blocks that can also be retrofitted. There are modulese.g. for the acquisition and processing of measured values, for control tasks or for the long-term archiving, data log62

ging and analysis.One example is the control module in Mahlo's weft straighteners. The distortion control was revised and digitised.Optimised hardware and software resulted in a faster and more efficient controller. Mr. Mestermann explains:"Evaluations confirmed by customers prove that the control module regulates 20 percent faster and more precisely than before. Better straightening results reduce the production of secondchoice goods and the need to pass the same fabric through the stenter several times." An addition to personalized services "Even in a 4.0 future, personal installation and maintenance support will remain an indispensable part of services but the portfolio will be supplemented by digital solutions", stated Peter D. Dornier, CEO of Lindauer DORNIER.The company is technology leader in weaving machines. At ITMA 2019, Lindauer DORNIER will present a new customer portal. The portal is based on state-of-the-art database technology and will provide an online shop with permanent availability for original parts for all product lines. Remote maintenance and networking of weaving machines - to improve run characteristics, for example - will also be possible in future via the new customer portal. The focus of this solution is on people: Its purpose is to make the job of machine operators and production planners easier. Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: "The future success of the textile industry is more and more determined by Industry 4.0. As seen today, Industry 4.0 has many dimensions and possible fields of application. In Smart Services,Operations and Factory, key solutions are provided by the machinery industry. Today's presentations are just a few examples for innovative Industry 4.0 solutions. At ITMA in Barcelona, visitors will have the chance to see the whole range of I4.0 and other innovative solutions offered by VDMA member companies." With regard to ITMA 2019, the VDMA published two interviewswith experts from 16 member companies presenting their latest Industry 4.0technologies. ITMA press conference of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association in Barcelona will be on20 June 2019, 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Conference Room 1.2 in CC1. For More Questions, contact: Mr. Nicolai Strauch Phone +49 69 6603 1366, +49 69 6603 2366, E-mail: nicolai.strauch@vdma.org May - June 2019

NEWS

Joint cooperation between Grasim and Rieter Grasim Industries limited, a flagship company of Aditya Birla Group (ABG), which ranks amongst India's largest private sector conglomerate and a global player in Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF),has added Rieter's latest air-jet spinning machine J 26 at Textile Research and Development Centre (TRADC) in Kharach, Gujarat (India). This leadsto a joint cooperation to explore the production of best quality air-jet spun yarns and fabrics made from VSFof Grasimand its blends.

The joint co-operation between Grasim and Rieter will provide benefits both in downstream processing and in the fabric. The conducted trials and development work results in distinct end products with yarns spun from mature technologies and sustainable fibers.

The state of the art TRADC is a pilot plant involved in addressing the downstream textile value chain and to provide comprehensive Research and Development (R&D) for all the VSF manufacturing units belonging to the ABG conglomerate. The technology center helps upholding ABG's strong commitment towards contributing technological advancements and producing eco-sustainable products. TRADC's Lifestyle Studio, which displays fabrics and garments primarily made of VSF of Grasim, is an additional highlight in the technology center. The Rieter air-jet spinning machine J 26 includes unique characteristics that differentiate it from other air-jet machines.This machine coupled with industry benchmark autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 50 guarantees the perfect combination of spinning preparatory andend spinning system. The unique Com4®jet yarn structure that excels by its low pilling tendency, high washing resistance and dimensional stability offers great potential in the development of new, innovative products. www.rieter.com

KARL MAYER had a great deal of visitor interest during ITMA KARL MAYER, the innovative market leader, is pleased with a great deal of visitor interest during ITMA, 20. - 26. 06. 2019 in Barcelona

design of the stand and by the concept behind the presentation.

An important issue in this context is digitization. "At ITMA in Barcelona it becomes clear again that the sector relies on digital solutions when it comes to process optimization and customer orientation. This is the reason why we are so happy about the lively response to the new solutions of our software start-up KM.ON", says CEO Arno Gärtner. KARL MAYER started successfully into the ITMA week, its diverse exhibition area soon became the industry's favourite meeting point. Nearly 1,000 visitors were counted alone during the first four days. The international guests were impressed by the modern May - June 2019

Besides, with its exhibition, the innovative market leader builds a bridge from the machine to the textile and its applications and, thus, hits the mark. "Our show around the topic of ‚Future of Textiles'also attracts enormous interest. During the discussions with our clients and guests it becomes evident that our concept with a focus 63

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

At ITMA 2019, KARL MAYER invites the visitors to embark on a voyage of discovery through the textile world of tomorrow.

NEWS on innovative textile application examples in addition to our machine innovations, is successful. The textile world of experience offers inspiration for innovative application developments and thus approaches for new business opportunities ", explains Arno Gärtner with satisfaction. The machine show impresses by highly efficient complete solutions for a production which will give the customers an important competitive edge also in the long term: flexible, trendsetting machines with excellent cost:benefit ratios for use in warp knitting, innovations in warp sampling and direct warping for the warp preparation sector, a completely new machine for composite materials. The machines are the subject of many specific project discussions and requests. Interest is also high in KARL MAYER's solutions regarding the responsibility for the protection of the environment. "We specifically show the implementa-

tion of our strategic core topic "Sustainability and environment" at different exhibition islands: from energyefficient machines, via the processing of resource-saving yarns up to sustainable warp-knitted fabrics and application concepts. One highlight is surely our machine novelty concerning the topic of ‚Sustainable Denim'", told Arno Gärtner in confidence. In other words: A visit to KARL MAYER's Stand 8.0/ B10 is always worthwhile. Press Release KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstraße 25 63179 Obertshausen Enquiries: Ulrike Schlenker Tel. 06104/402-274 Fax 06104/402-73-274 E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

LIVA promotes sustainability through Livaecoplantable garment tag

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Taking another step towards sustainability, LIVA, ingredient brand by Birla Cellulose launches a unique plantable garment tag (tag attached to each garment across retail stores of W). With the launch of their eco-enhanced variant Livaeco, Birla Cellulose's plantable tag wishes to create a positive environment footprint by introducing and engaging consumers with eco-friendly practices right from sourcing to the final degradation of the garment. It is as an initiative to be in the forefront of sustainable business practice and also instill awareness amongst consumers about sustainable fashion. The tag is created using seed paper which is made from recycled biodegradable fibers. Post soaking in water for 5-6 hours it gets ready to be sowed in soil and placed under sunlight to ensure it sprouts in 5-6 days. Livaeco enhances fluid fashion through the use of 100% sustainable forestry, lowest water consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, fastest bio-degradability and traceability of source. The goal of Livaeco is to engross customers with end-to-end eco-friendly and sustainable practices to safe guard the future of fashion. Mr. Manohar Samuel, Senior President - Marketing, Birla Cellulose said, "It has become challenging for industries to retain millennial attention towards the current state of the environment. Being a part of the 64

eco-system, we have to work on all tangible and intangible aspects to bring in sustainability and conscious living at every stage. We are launching our newest offering Livaeco exclusively with W, which has created an exquisite collection that embodies our focus on sustainability and high fashion to delight the consumers. At Birla Cellulose, sustainability is a continuous journey towards the wellbeing of all stakeholders and conserving nature." Despite LIVA being an ingredient brand, Birla Cellulose has always found innovative ways of connecting with the end consumer through activations and initiatives like these. With green tag, they have provided a great opportunity to the customers to contribute to the environment and be a part of the global cause of sustainable fashion. For Further details, contact: ◆ Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com - 9920056000 ◆ Andrea Joseph: andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com 9619068834 ◆ GreeshmaNachane: greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com 9920959673 May - June 2019

NEWS

LMW fulfilling roundup ITMA Asia Shanghai ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 was held during 15 to 19 October at the new National Exhibition Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai. This is one of the global textile exhibition held in Chine every alternate years.

type. Fan motors with inverter help achieve effective and optimum suction for different process. Even the aesthetically re-designed doors and covers of LDF3 drew wide appreciation from the visitors. LMW's Card LC636with 1.5 meters of working width for maximum utilization, and SpinConnect integration received great appreciation at the event. The new age manufacturing yields top-in-line quality and improved precision for long lasting value.

LMW's Comber LK69 and Drawframe LDF3 were demonstrated at 600 Nips per minute and at 550 Mpm respectively for cotton-combed process. The SpinConnect was displayed with the live data from one of LMW's premier customer in China to whom LMW supplied their machines. LMW's display of key components include spindles, compact retrofit models, YBS and RSM models, rings, fluted rollers, cots and aprons. Also, other key components that Speedframe, Comber, Drawframe and Carding machines were also put on display - for customers to interact in depth with the LMW's team. New features galore At ITMA Asia'18, LMW brought to the forefront, the new features that have been incorporated in LMW Comber LK69 machine: Servo drives for drafting, which enables main draft adjustments through digital display, and a hank correction facility that helps achieve better CV%. The Comber machine on display was fitted with an inverter-controlled main motor that enables effortless change of machine speeds through the display facility itself.

Digital solutions in textile machinery considerably extends the production possibilities and enhances the production processes. LMW's latest offerings in advanced automation capabilities and digitization were well-received by the industry visitors. Substantial praise from the visitors was registered towards LMW's range of machines that were on display. The clarity and purposeful demonstrations won the hearts of the listeners, which has helped to receive more enquiries for the products from customers who came from the top textile manufacturing hubs of the world. More than 1,700 exhibitors from 28 countries have participated in the sixth edition of this thriving event held biannually since 2008. The 5-day event saw engaging discussions and cross-pollination of ideas among industry players, who showed increasing interest towards including technology in their future leaps. LMW is once again delighted to have reached out to newer horizons, as the company marches forward to a bold, connected future.

LMW Drawframe LDF3 displayed two new features: A separate drive for coiler, which helps in better coiling and self-adjustment of coiling speed to suit the filling May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Lakshmi Machine Works participatedand displayed its industry-leading range of machines that include: Card LC636, Drawframe LDF3, Comber LK69 machines and SPINPACT - the Suction compact system. There were also live demonstrations of the company's technology platform for its leading range of textile machines - SPINCONNECT along with a entire range of LMW components for the spinning industry on display.

Great feedback, a testimony to quality and service ITMA Asia'18 that concluded on 19th October was a platform via which LMW showcased its capabilities and in turn was able to reach out to a wider customer base in one of the biggest textile manufacturing regions of the world, China. The visitors were from various countries that include Indonesia, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Pakistan, Iran, Nepal and several African and Latin American countries. Overall, the reception has been overwhelmingly positive, with a bright future in sight towards the company's further expansion in China, and other emerging markets.

NEWS

LOEPFE Presents BrandNew Yarn Clearer Generation The YARNMASTER PRISMA Opens up a New World at ITMA 2019

terial with whitepolypropylene from bale packaging is very challenging.

Loepfe BrothersLtd. has been pioneering yarn clearing technologysince almost 30 years. At ITMA 2019,the Swisscompany presents a brandnew yarn clearer - theYarnMaster PRISMA. With multi-sensor measurementdesign and new functionalities this next generation ofyarn clearers will support spinners all around the worldin mastering daily quality control. For the first time,the YarnMaster PRISMA combines new and establishedsensor technologies in one device. Four sensor technologiesinteract intelligently and ensure unprecedentedfault visibility and data quality. The unconventional newconcept addresses all yarn quality problems relatedto material and the spinning process with an universaland multi-dimensional approach.

To solve this difficult task, Loepfe developed theP4Sensor, which utilizes the triboelectric effect. Thesensor measures electric charge differences, whichare caused during the winding process by different rawmaterials. This technology is able to detect contaminationwith white polypropylene very reliable. Beyondthese, a world first dual measurement for basic clearingis presented to the visitors. On the YarnMaster PRISMA,the two dominant sensor technologies in yarn clearingare integrated into one single sensing head. This unconventionalapproach to use an optical and a mass sensor,functioning in perfect harmony, offers unprecedentedpossibilities and new levels of precision in yarn clearing.

Four sensor technologies

The fusion of four sensor technologies into one singlesensing head -- YarnMaster PRISMA guaranteespreviously unachieved performance and possibilities inquality control during the winding process.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A world of connectivity The heart of the innovative yarn clearing concept is thesimple and intuitive PRISMA operating system. Thenew PRISMA GUI offers a menu guidance by an intelligentwizard and enables straightforward and intuitiveoperation.

Controlling the contamination in yarns is of greatestimportance to the spinners. The YarnMaster PRISMAutilizes a sensor for foreign matter detection based on abrand-new RGB-color measuring technology. The newRGB F-sensor illuminates the yarn in the full spectrumof light, enabling the recognition of even the slightestdifference in shade and glossiness in any type of yarnand color. The contamination of raw ma-

Texttreasure Research is to see what everybody has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought. -Albert Szent-Gyorgyi 66

As an extra benefit, Loepfe's data management systemMillMaster TOP 2.0 is an integral part of the newYarn Master PRISMA and complements every Loepfeyarn clearer installation. 100% online monitoring ofquality data produced by the yarn clearers reduces theneed for routine laboratory tests. Effective online qualitymanagement is one of the key success factors for windingand results in efficiency and lower costs. For more information, please contact: Loepfe Brothers Ltd. Kastellstrasse 10 8623 Wetzikon / Switzerland + 41 43 488 11 11 marketing@loepfe.com www.loepfe.com May - June 2019

NEWS

NCTO CEO KIM GLASto revive the American Textile Industry "Kim Glas, new the president and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organisations since April 2019, has set a definite goal to revive the flagging American textile industry. She notes the American industry in the last few years has seen a remarkable uptick in employment with the industry currently employing 600,000 workers across the supply chain. In 2018, around 594,147 people were employed in the textile chain and the country's textile and apparel shipments during the year added up to $76.8 billion."

Glas' top focus is to inform the Congress, the administration and key decision makers about key priorities interms of legislation or trade policy. Glas also aims to focus on developing the Western Hemisphere, a core trade region that imports around 70 per cent of the yarns and fabrics that the country produces.

Kim Glas, new the president and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organisations since April 2019, has set a definite goal to revive the flagging American textile industry. She notes the American industry in the last few years has seen a remarkable uptick in employment with the industry currently employing 600,000 workers across the supply chain.

NCTO also plans to build a strong communications strategy both for the industry and key decisions makers in the government and beyond.

The industry is also witnessing an increasing emphasis on innovation with $22.8 billion being invested in new plants and equipment from 2006-2017. The US manufacturers recently opened new facilities across the entire textile production chain to convert waste materials into new yarns and resins. Focus on sustainability and reshoring

As the industry prioritises on reshoring manufacturing process for fiber, yarn and fabrics, a lot of apparel suppliers in Los Angeles and New York are planning to expand their operations to other regions. However, it is important for the industry to know the FDI flow in the country and number of jobs that are being created. For this, the country has proposed the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement, which continues the free-trade status with Mexico and Canada and improves certain areas that benefit US producers. Plans to regulate tariffs As the tariffs being applied on US manufacturers sourcing of certain materials from China are resulting in additional penalty and tighter profit margins, Glas looks to impose tariffs on finished items imported from China. NCTO has also demanded fair and expeditious exclusions process as it doesn't believe that under the current framework the tariff process is absolutely correct. As per Klas, the process abuses intellectual property rights and it needs to properly balance the application of these tariffs on finished goods. As per Commerce Department's Office of Textiles & Apparel figures, apparel sourcing has already diversified across Asia, the Western Hemisphere, etc. Brands and retailers are shifting over the uncertainty surround next round of tariffs and how it will hit them. Brands expect this to attract more interest either in the Western Hemisphere or with those that have trade benefits with the US.

May - June 2019

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In 2018, around 594,147 people were employed in the textile chain and the country's textile and apparel shipments during the year added up to $76.8 billion. The key market for yarns and fabrics, the Western Hemisphere, is seeing strong growth trends with the FDI in the market increasing.

In addition, Glas, aims to focus on sustainability by manufacturing more tenable products and revamping the entire production process.

NEWS

Oerlikon celebrates four world premieres at ITMA Barcelona 2019 "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a jour-ney into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber produc-tion in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 mÂ˛ stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment. The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Choosing the right business model

Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself 68

at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFKEvo texturing machine. 2. Finding alternatives for good personnel Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerg-ing industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how au-tomation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA. 3. Guarantee quality and traceability The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on OerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oer-likon Nonwoven equipment are right - and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site. 4. Efficient and sustainable production In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improvedglobal recycling economy. The recycling of polyester - with over 80% market share the most frequentlyused manmade fiber in the world - has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already hassolutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. With the VacuFilÂŽ Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents theworld May - June 2019

NEWS premiere No. 4 - a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach. Vision becomes reality The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises asthe world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textilessourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality.

For further information: André Wissenberg Marketing, Corporate Communications & Public Affairs Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 67 70 1313 andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

Rieter at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona

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News from the inventors of compacting The most economical rotor direct process Production of innovative yarns using the air-jet spinning process ESSENTIAL: New modules of the Rieter Digital Spinning Suite After Sales: Solutions for optimizing the installed basis Innovations from Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and Suessen

At ITMA 2019, Rieter showcases innovations for all four spinning processes that are established on the market. These innovations are designed to reduce raw material, energy and labor costs, while also increasing productivity during production of the yarn quality required in each case. Solutions to increase the flexibility of the spinning mill are also presented. In addition, Rieter presents two solutions for the production of innovative yarns.

Fiber preparation The blowroomVARIOline with the new UNIClean B 15 brings significant improvements in terms of energy consumption and the cleaning result for all spinning processes. The same applies to the new high-performance card C 80, which offers an unrivaled level of productivity. Ring and compact-spinning process To increase the cost effectiveness of the ring spinning and compact spinning process, Rieter reveals the new comber E 90, the new roving frame F 40, the piecing robot ROBOspin and three different compacting units that can easily be installed on and removed from a ring spinning machine: COMPACTdrum, COMPACTapron and COMPACTeasy. Rotor spinning process Innovations that bring considerable improvements in efficiency for the rotor spinning process are also presented. The draw frame module RSB-Module 50 can be used in combination with the high-performance card C 80 and can be configured to a highly efficient direct process with the new semi-automated R 37 or the fully automated R 70. The new, cost-effective rotor spinning machines are characterized by low energy consumption, high productivity and high machine availability with low raw material costs. Air-jet spinning process There are innovations for the air-jet spinning process too: The process for producing a very attractive yarn made of 100% combed cotton is presented. At the Rieter booth, let yourself be convinced that this process is extremely cost-effective, despite the combed out short fiber content.

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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NEWS ESSENTIAL - Rieter Digital Spinning Suite The new innovations for the four spinning processes are supplemented by two new functionalities of ESSENTIAL: ESSENTIALorder and ESSENTIALconsult, which are available to all Rieter customers free of charge with the purchase of a new machine. In addition to the existing modules ESSENTIALmonitor, ESSENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, the next steps are demonstrated: ESSENTIALlab for integrating laboratory data into the spinning mill management system, ESSENTIALoptimize, the intelligent recipe management system, and ESSENTIALautomate for integrating the transport and logistics systems.

BrĂ¤cker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and Suessen The Rieter Group's component manufacturers also introduce further innovations for day-to-day operations, such as the BrĂ¤cker ring traveler C1 ELM udr and the new SOLIDRING B 188 from Suessen. In preciforce, SSM presents a system for optimizing the bobbin buildup on precision winding machines. SSM also reveals another yarn innovation: fancyflexis a technology for manufacturing slub yarn for textured yarns.

After Sales The growing digital service offering complements new solutions for optimizing the installed base. With the PSM Drafting Motor, RieterAfter Sales offers a significant improvement on the machines G 33 and K 44; and with the Energy Saving Support Disc it offers the possibility to make considerable energy savings on rotor spinning machines.

For further information please contact: Rieter Management Ltd. Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 / F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com /www.rieter.com

Detailed information on Rieter's innovations and access for downloading the Rieter images are available online at www.rieter.com

Sarees by LIVA at Kolkata Fabric Expo

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Aditya Birla Group's ingredient brand LIVA presented the immense possibilities in Sarees at Eastern India's Biggest Fashion Event - KOLKATA FASHION EXPO 2019 which is aimed towards bringing together the brightest and best fashion minds across the country. LIVA was the title sponsor of the event. The trade fair brought alive the magic of the fluid fabric and sustain the most imperative Indian ethnic culture with style. LIVA, the new age fabric brand, unfurled a whole wide world of sarees& suitable fabrics to the manufacturers, retailers as well as exporters. Value chain partners from different hubs including Bhagalpur, Erode, Surat& Varanasi closely working with LIVA presented their collection signifying a distinctive fashion statement that one can create with the country's heritage in an aristocrat way. The fabric of LIVA sarees was associated with luxurious softness, feather like feel and easy manageability to ensure a refined and graceful look. LIVA's efforts aimed at providing innovative, technical product and marketing solutions for the brands and buyers from across the country with this category. Sarees commands to have a market share of 50% in women's ethnic wear segment. Given more than 100 draping styles have been documented for Saree, it is 70

the fabric that can leave a first-time sari shopper bewildered. LIVA's effort is to educate the consumers regarding the different fabric offerings and to showcase the fluidity of viscose & modal in Saree's. The elegance of a saree is defined by the drape and fall of the fabric. Keeping these qualities in mind, viscose is becoming the new choice of fabrics in sarees. Customers and business partners appreciated the range of Liva's Royale as well as 9 to 9 collection for prolonged usage. Retailers have shown immense interest promoting Sarees with Birla Cellulose fibres including Viscose, Modal & Excel. Spokesperson from Liva commented, "The saree segment has been quite unorganised for years. Through LIVA efforts, we hope to promote the quintessential Indian garment. It has been adapted all across India, with each region giving its own spin. We plan on embracing the culture and educating the consumers in terms of the fabric and fall. Kolkata is a major textile hub and hence is the ideal location to focus on innovation in the saree category". Birla Cellulose aims at pushing the sustainability movement in India. With the entry of LIVA in the category, Saree too is set to be more sustainable with use of technologically enhanced eco-friendly fabrics. May - June 2019

NEWS

Textile Industry in Union Budget 2019-2020

"Finance Minister NirmalaSitharaman presented her maiden budget in Modi 2.0 government. However, the textiles sector seems to have been low on her priority list as the Budget allocation for textiles has been reduced to Rs 4831.48 crore in fiscal 2019-20 from Rs 6,943.26 in the last fiscal. Total textile infrastructure like SITP has been reduced from Rs 3729.83 crores to Rs 58.55 crores. What's more there has been a reduction in custom duty from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent on import of raw materials under 5101 and 5105 (wool fibre and wool tops)." Finance Minister NirmalaSitharaman presented her maiden budget in Modi 2.0 government. However, the textiles sector seems to have been low on her priority list as the Budget allocation for textiles has been reduced to Rs 4831.48 crore in fiscal 2019-20 from Rs 6,943.26 in the last fiscal. Total textile infrastructure like SITP has been reduced from Rs 3729.83 crores to Rs 58.55 crores. What's more there has been a reduction in custom duty from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent on import of raw materials under 5101 and 5105 (wool fibre and wool tops). Moreover there has been an increase in customs duty from 0 to 20 per cent for water blocking tapes for manufacture of optical fiber cables. Reacting to the budget Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI says, "It's neutral and a non-event." Relaxation of FDI in single brand retail The FM has proposed further relaxation of foreign direct investment (FDI) norms in single brand retail sector to attract more overseas investments. This assumes special significance as several foreign entities had raised concerns over the mandatory local sourcing norms from India. This included the high-end technology companies who had expressed their reluctance to procure goods from India due to the difficulty in meeting the 30 per cent condition. The Department of Promotion of Industry and Internal May - June 2019

trade had mooted a proposal earlier this year to ease these norms. According to that proposal, these relaxations would allow retailers more time to comply with this regulation. The proposal also sought permissions for such firms to start their online operations even before setting up brick-and-mortar shops, provided they are able to attract over $1million of FDI. However, the proposal also mandated these firms to set up their brickand-mortar shops within two years of starting their online sales. Tarun Pathak, Research Director at Hong Kong based Counterpoint Research feels easing rules in single brand retail is likely to help many foreign companies to expand their operations by setting their own stores in the country. Focus on promoting Khadi globally The government has also focused on promoting Khadi globally, urging its missions abroad to come up with ideas to project Khadi as an employment generation solution and not merely a garment. The Budget also announced a 2 per cent interest subvention for MSME and corporate tax reduction to MSMEs uptoRs 400 crores. Labour laws have been simplified and restructuring of power distribution has been proposed. Also the formation of National Research Foundation has been announced in the Budget. As a part of the NDA government's focus on bringing micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) under the formal economy's fold, a payment platform for the MSMEs will be set up. This comes in the backdrop of the government's plan to start an e-commerce platform on the lines of Amazon and Alibaba to sell products from MSMEs and the Khadi and Village Industries Commission. Given its focus on MSMEs, the government has also announced a pension scheme for 30 million small traders, recognising the plight of shopkeepers, small traders and the self-employed hurt by the November 2016 decision to demonetize high-value currency notes, and the much-debated roll-out of the goods and services tax (GST) in July 2017. All small shopkeepers and selfemployed persons as well as the retail traders with GST turnover below Rs1.5 crore and age between 1840 years, can enrol for this scheme. The scheme would benefit more than 3 crore small shopkeepers and traders. Reacting to the Budget the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) stated it is a mixed bag 71

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Textiles allocation reduced, fdi norms for single brand retail relaxed

NEWS for the textile and apparel industry. Rahul Mehta, President, CMAI, stated that the extension of lower rate of 25 per cent corporate tax with an annual turnover up to Rs 400 crores is a welcome step. Currently, this rate is only applicable to companies having annual turnover up to Rs 250 crore. Moreover the infusion of Rs 70,000 crore capital into public sector banks will ease the

current credit squeeze. Also, Rs 350 crore allocated for 2 per cent interest subvention for all GST-registered MSMEs on fresh or incremental loans will give a big thrust to MSMEs. Considering that over 80 per cent of the domestic apparel industry is in the MSME sector, all these measures could provide a boost to the sector.

The new Truetzschler BO-P scores over in Coimbatore Polytex, Coimbatore The Premier Mills Group is a long established and well-known manufacturer and exporter of fine combed cotton yarn, producing over 18 million kg of fine combed cotton yarn every year. One of the units of the Group is Coimbatore Polytex Pvt. Ltd. They export to over 40 countries across the world, including Australia, Brazil, Finland, Germany, etc. Recently the Group purchased a new automatic bale opener BO-P from Truetzschler for Coimbatore Polytex. Here is what Mr Rohit Rajendran, Executive Director of the Premier Group, had to say about this product.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Can you please give us a brief about Coimbatore Polytex Pvt. Ltd.? Coimbatore Polytex started manufacturing 100% cotton yarn in 1991. It was the first 100% EOU spinning mill in South India, and was the first to employ women apprentice workers. Coimbatore Polytex is part of the Premier Mills Group. How large is this mill and what kind of yarn do you spin? We have 42,000 spindles manufacturing knitting yarn in the count range Ne30-Ne40, and the production is 16

tons per day. What are the main reasons you have chosen Truetzschler as your technology partner for so many years? Coimbatore Polytex enjoys a good relationship with Truetzschler since inception; the plant started operations with DK760 cards and has continued to buy Truetzschler cards with the TC15 being installed recently. Truetzschler is very responsive to customers' needs and keeps introducing innovations. Are you satisfied with the performance of the latest bale opener BO-P that is installed in your unit? Yes, the performance is good. It is still early days as it is commissioned recently, but the report from the technicians is very good. Could you tell the advantages of the new BO Portal over the earlier automatic bale opener which you had of another make? The BO Portal is the safest automatic bale opener introduced so far in the textile industry. It can be commissioned very quickly, and the maintenance needs are minimal What are your views of A.T.E., as a single window solutions provider? A.T.E. has the best principals in the textile industry, and the sales and service is handled with a lot of maturity. When A.T.E. is behind a principal, we are confident of working with that principal with whom we may have had no prior relationship.

Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo and Summit 2019 Solapur, a District in Maharashtra is a Major Textile Hub; especially in Terry Towel, Cotton Chaddars, home textiles and its allied products. Many of the manufacturers are direct exporters of Terry Towels, Bath Linen, Home Textiles and many other textile articles.

organising an international Expo and Summit, "Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo and Summit 2019" from 25th Sept. to 27th Sept. 2019 Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskrutik Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari Sugar Factory Area, Hotgi Road, Solapur.

Textile Development Foundation (TDF), Solapur are

Keeping an objective of not only to attract Major

May - June 2019

NEWS Importers and Buyers from the global market but also Domestic Players like, Wholesalers, Retailers, Agents, Traders, Corporate Offices, Buying Agents, Hotels, Hospitals etc. This will results in higher business growth, higher export and ultimately higher job creation and economic development. Through this event all the buyers, exporters and importers can come in direct contact with manufacturers. It will be the platform for direct connection with actual manufacturers.

markets. In this Expo, there will be two more separate sections for Yarn, Dyes & Chemicals and Machineries. Those business holders who wants to target Solapur Market, can participate in this event. It is an International Event, and visitors from global markets are attending this event. This will be the only event organized for Terry Towel Industry. We kindly invite all the stakeholders from Textile Industry of India to Visit and join this expo at Solapur.

Now Solapur is a grooming industry and adapting cutting edge with various advanced technologies, machineries, techniques and many more. Hence, considering this people from textile industry have a huge scope in this event, as they will use this golden opportunity for their company to create awareness about their products not only in national market but also in global textile

For more details, please contact: Textile Development Foundation, P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road, Solapur - 413006 Mobile: +91 9422459001 Email: rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.com Website: www.vibrantterrytowel.com

TRIBUTE to Prof. D. B. AJGAONKAR

Prof. Ajgaonkar initially worked in various Textile Mills for about 8 years during 1952-1959. He served more than 30 years in Textile Teaching during 1959 to 1989. He joined VJTI and served from 1964 to 1982 (17 years) as Asstt. Prof. and Professor. Then he joined DKTE as Principal and served during 1982 to 1988. He was a founding Principal of DKTE Textile Institute, Ichalkaranji.He was the one started DKTE as well which has now became the most sought after institute in India. For some time he had given his services to SASMIRA.He was the members of various committees of BTRA, SITRA & ISI. He was Advisor and consultant since 1990. Prof. Ajgaonkar was a Research Guide at Mumbai and Shivaji University. He was real guru in true sense and Master of Knitting & Sizing Technology. He was a man of inspirational. Down to core Teacher by heart and knowledge, he shaped lives of thousands of Textile May - June 2019

students. Today many more executives are a student of Prof. Ajgaonkar. Prof. Ajgaonkar devoted and dedicated to his profession as teacher, wonderful human being and his contribution to the field of education was tremendous. He had presented number of papers at various Conferences, Seminars and published in Indian Journals of Textile Technology. He has published articles in Textile Research Journals (USA). He has published series of very informative books and articles on Knitting, Sizing, Weaving and Man Made Textiles. Prof. Ajgaonkar was very active member of the Textile Association (India) and has served as member of Editorial Board of JTA and then Chairman of JTA Editorial Board. He was also Chairman of Professional Award Committee of TAI, Central Office during 1980 to 1987.He was the author for various Books and Tablets for Textiles. Prof. Ajgaonkarwas conferred with Honorary Fellowship of Textile Association (FTA) in 1982 and was awarded with Service Memento by TAI in 1984. He was felicitated with TAI RATNA Award by The Textile Association (India). It is a great loss of a true textile stalwart of the textile fraternity. His memories shall always be like lighthouse for all Textilewala. The Textile Association (India)offers heartfelt condolence and pray to the Almighty to give enough strength to his family members to bear this irreparable loss.May god his departed holy soul be rest in peace. 73

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Prof. Dinkar Bapurao Ajgaonkar (Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar) born in 1928 at Ratnagiri, passed away at the age of 91 years, on 18th June, 2019at Parle residence due to sudden heart attack. A great man, teacher, mentor and philosopher has taken exit. He was B.Tex from Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar Bombay University in 1952, M.Sc (Textiles) from North Carolina State University (USA),

NEWS

The Conference on Textile received over whelming response from the industry IACC Textile Forum in association with US Commercial Service, US Consulate hosted Conference on Textiles "America First & Make in India: Achieving USD 100 Billion Trade in Textiles" held 24th April, 2019 at Hotel TajMahal Palace, Mumbai. The objective of the Conference was to create, develop & sustain successful bilateral partnership in textiles between USA & India. This would necessitate in increasing the scope for trade and promotion of niche sectors in textiles such as apparels and home textiles. The conference saw participation of more than 250 delegates from the leading textile industries.Inaugural Function started with the lightening of the Lamp by Chief Guestand dignitaries.

ment opportunities in setting up textile unit in respective states. US Commercial Service, US Consulate, Mumbai made a presentation showcasing Select USA Investment Summit scheduled 10 - 12, June 2019 at Washington, DC. The American textile sector is driven by superior technology & high-end innovation having stronghold in every segment of textile manufacturing, starting from heart valves and stents to aircraft bodies and advanced body armor, intelligent fabrics, scientific athletic wear and home textiles, automotive textiles, geo membranes to even the delicate lingerie. Indian companies can learn and collaborate with U.S. companies and participate in the U.S. textile manufacturing opportunities involving FDI into the U.S. Similarly, the Indian textile industry exhibits the rich cultural heritage of India and now with its newer modern manufacturing systems, achieving wider variety of fabrics, techniques and innovation across various manufacturing techniques and uses. India's competitive advantage in fiber to fabric, along with its many textile clusters, can meet the ever-growing demand of the American textile industry. Indian states and companies can also attract FDI from the U.S. to promote textile manufacturing and trade.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R:Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, Welspun Group; Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. S. K. Sarkar, National President, IACC;Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, National Executive Vice President, IACC, WIC;Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum;

The event was inaugurated by Mr. S. K. Sarkar, National President, IACC; Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum; Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, Welspun Group delivered Keynote address; Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Consulate, Mumbai as Chief Guest;Ms. PoorviChothani, Regional President, IACC, WIC; Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, National Executive Vice President, IACC, WIC; Mr. NaushadPanjwani, Regional Vice President, IACC, WIC. The conference also witnessed participation from two leading States of USA, North Carolina and South Carolina Department of Commerce, showcasing invest74

Inaugural Session: America First & Make in India: Together Achieving USD 100 Billion Trade in Textiles.

L to R:Mr. NaushadPanjwani, Regional Vice President, IACC; Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, National Executive Vice President, IACC; Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, Welspun Group; Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum; Ms. PoorviChothani, Regional President, IACC, WIC; Mr. S. K .Sarkar, National President, IACC May - June 2019

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Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum He mentioned that; ◆ Needs of both the countries are same (jobs and employment) ◆ Peter F Drucker a management guru once said trade follows investment ◆ 100 billion will be achieved through trade, commerce and joint investment ◆ Michael Porter competitive advantage economics is over. In the present era, collaborative economics is required. A great relationship can be established between the countries May - June 2019

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IACC Textile forum is a body to make bonding between both the countries much deeper and stronger in textiles. This forum is involved in idea creation, forming new concepts alienating traditional concepts and introducing new forms of trade We have to be pragmatic in taking the trade forward between the two countries We are opening a new chapter of developing trade relations with America in Textiles

Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, Welspun Group He informed that; ◆ This is an important initiative if we are thinking of creating more jobs ◆ This kind of conference helps in engaging both the governments and entrepreneurs this would definitely textile sector will be benefitted. ◆ I believe Indo - US partnership offers tremendous opportunities in terms of trade relations and growth opportunities. ◆ We are all proud the way India is functioning, with 7 % GDP in last many years. We are hoping for a stable government for next five years which will be extremely important in carving a new growth story for "Resurgent India" ◆ We are the first one to have state of art manufacturing plant in home textiles and started exporting ◆ Each one of us is the first ambassador for our Country. Commitment is important, "Dare to commit" is a slogan on which we work. ◆ Welspun has 50 % market share in home textiles in USA and every 5th towel used in USA is manufactured in Gujarat ◆ It's important that our country is need developmental institutions, which could fund traditional industries. Textile is a traditional industry and it can't be left behind ◆ We have huge raw material; we are top producer of Cotton and top manufacturers of man-made. Our Honourable Prime Minister, has formulated an important theme from "Farm to Fibre" and "Fibre to Fashion" which can wonders for the entire textile value chain. ◆ A small country like Bangladesh 18 b exports, how is it possible, we need to change perception and with insignificant insight, we can achieve a lot, with every 1 cr. Rupees spent in garment or apparel we can create more than 75 jobs ◆ We are aiming to be 5 trillion economy by 2025. ◆ Global Textile & Apparel trade would be roughly 750 billion dollars in next five years it's projected 75

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. S. K. Sarkar, National President, IACC He mentioned that; ◆ Exports of ready-made garments dropped to US Dollar 16.37 billion in 2018-19 from USD 16.71 billion a year ago. But still garment segment is a major segment of employment generator with 45 million employed directly and another 20 million indirectly. ◆ Policy intervention by present Government through introduction of 100 % FDI (automatic route), integrated textile parks, Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) all have been quite encouraging. ◆ Fiber consumption has 70 % share through manmade fibers and only the balance is 30 % natural fibers ◆ Sustainability is the way forward for textile industry to operate. Environment unfriendly behavior may be coting the globe an annual USD 160 billion. Raymond in collaboration with Reliance Industries aims to redeem nearly one million pet bottles from Landfills. The brand Eco-Vera. ◆ North Carolina State University researchers have designed a fibre that combines the elasticity of rubber with the strength of a metal, resulting in a tougher material that could be incorporated in to soft robotics, packaging materials or next generation textiles. ◆ Tirupur Exporter's Association (TEA) India's leading knitwear or readymade cluster has reported 8.3 % growth in terms of exports at Rs 26,000 crores in FY 19 along with a domestic sale of Rs 24,000 crores. ◆ Changing design patterns, life style across the planet, skilled workforce, per capita spending on garments clearly indicates India's advantage over rest of the countries, I am sure will be able to grab the opportunity.

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to touch 1 trillion dollars India is hardly having 5 % share, 40 billion exports. There is huge scope in terms of exports to USA. We need to grow at CAGR with 10 % from currently 5 - 6 %. When India & USA is already having great partnership and relationship and with China vacating the space and we have huge opportunity. We can do wonders together and grow together. My personal view is to work towards achieving this theme by 2025 within five years.

Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Consulate, Mumbai He mentioned that; ◆ The first relationship built between USA & India is on textiles. Tremendous global shift in capital, investment ◆ am happy that Mr. Kotak is talking about a vision which is not a "Zero Sum Game" ◆ There has to be win- win not only in economic terms but also in creation of employment and values between both the countries. We can increase in textile trade significantly ◆ We have administration in US greater focus on trade & goods, trade deficits and willing to take action, Americans play a level playing field ◆ If there is a genuine market access across the board this will help all the countries to develop and grow and bring prosperity to citizens ◆ In America, we are trying to refine opportunities the benefits of investments are shared by all citizens ◆ If India continues to grows with more than 7 % then it will add entire economy of Vietnam ◆ We are very proud threat American companies are long time investment partners in India and vice -versa ◆ Indian companies invested in America have appreciated & found out value from investment. We have significant investments between both the countries ◆ We see this linkage as a great opportunity This is a way forward for both countries ◆ I can firmly say; no relationship can ever be compared with India. This will benefit not only to Indians or Americans but to everyone ◆ We will be having defining relationship if not the defining relationship. We want a very close, strong & productive relationship with emerging India. We share very common values, the trade partnership 76

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which we have built over the years is more than economic partnership and will result crescendo for textiles industry Textiles is important for America too. It's always achievable to achieve the target. US exports Technical Textiles to India and we would seek partnership in developing particular segment

Session on: Investment Opportunities in Select States of USA

L to R:Mr. Colin Kiser, Senior Director, Economic Development - Europe and India Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina; Mr. Tarun Gupta, Managing Director (India Office), South Carolina Department of Commerce; Ms. PoorviChothani, Regional President, IACC, WIC; Mr. Rahul Padmanabha, Director of Investments, India Office, Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina; Ms. Jigna Mehta, Commercial Specialist, U.S.Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. Sven Gerzer, Vice President, Economic Development - Europe, India & North America, Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina

In this session, presentation was done by US Commercial Service showcasing various services being offered by FCS in attracting investments in to USA and helping Small and Medium size enterprises in exporting to various countries. The presentation also covered Select USA Investment Summit which is scheduled 10 12 June 2019 in Washington DC. Select USA is a U.S. government-wide program organized by International Trade Administration at the United States Department of Commerce. Exclusive presentation by two select states of USA North Carolina and South Carolina showcasing investment opportunities & locational advantage in setting up industries. May - June 2019

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L to R: Mr. NanikRupani, Past Regional President, IACC, WIC; Mr. Updeep Singh Chatrath, Deputy CEO, Sutlej Textiles & Industries Ltd.; Mr. R. D.Udeshi, President (Polyester Chain), Reliance Industries Ltd.; Mr. AvinashMayekar, Managing Director, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.; Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Managing Director, Reeti Exim & Application Pvt. Ltd.& Ex-Chairman, SRTEPC; Mr. Mohit Jain, Vice-Chairman, Indo Count Industries Ltd.

Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President Polyester, Reliance Industries Ltd [Session Chairman] He mentioned that; ◆ Indian Textile Industry is roughly around 142 billion dollar (100 domestic, 42 exports) ◆ India has put an ambitious target of achieving 35o billion dollar by 2024 ◆ India is blessed with entire value chain 6 MT of cotton, abundant fibre, we have refining capacity, xylene, Para xylene ◆ India is strong in providing back end infrastructure like electricity, cheap labour, market accessibility backed by strong banking, legal system ◆ India is strong in fibre and multi utility of fibre can help us in meeting USA Demand ◆ How to increase trade with USA, manmade textile and mutual export to USA or create a building block in India exporting primary product to USA or processing facility can be Made at USA Mr. Updeep Singh Chatrath, Deputy CEO, Sutlej Textiles & Industries Ltd. He informed that; Since the facility have in USA & How was your experience in doing business with USA? ◆ We always wanted to have strong foot print in USA May - June 2019

Speed to market strategy is required as there is extreme demand Per capita consumption of towels in US market is 8 to 10 In India the per capita consumption of towel 250 tons per day and 95 % goes to USA Ease of operation is a plus point in USA As a company, we are determined to grow and achieve 100 million dollars in USA Some of the disadvantages integration of two companies or joint ventures and time difference Rationalization of cost needs to be done while making investment in USA

Mr. Mohit Jain, Vice-Chairman, Indo Count Industries Ltd. He spoke that; ◆ Today 49 - 50 % of towel imported to US or bed linen imported to US is from India. ◆ India plays a significant role US imports in home textiles ◆ Company needs to be innovative, product development focused ◆ The market is growing at 3 to 3.5 % in home textiles ◆ The product exported is very straight ◆ Import tariff to US is 7 %, Bangladesh is tariff free, Canada which is neighboring to US has 17 % ◆ Challenge is to think from consumer's point of view and USA being extreme developed market, there is a need to have well researched product development & innovation ◆ Sustainability is the key to survive in future and E-Commerce is the way forward for business to operate. Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Managing Director, Reeti Exim & Application Pvt. Ltd. He mentioned that; ◆ The manmade fibre which India currently exports to US is 5 % as compared to rest of the world, therefore one can imagine the potential in terms of export ◆ We are bit underexposed in US markets. We have the raw materials but not technology ◆ Synthetic & technical textiles huge scope. Technology can be imported, weaving can be done in India, finishing of product can be done in US ◆ Collaborations is important, we are trying to figure out how can we work together ◆ Product basket to USA is too small. Small woven 77

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Panel Discussion I: What America Buy or Can Buy in Textiles

NEWS fabrics for US defense needs to be explored more Enhance product basket is necessary. JVs is required in terms of finishing product India needs to improve on processing facility Tariff barriers is not a big problem

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Mr. AvinashMayekar, Managing Director, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. He informed that; ◆ To achieve this target 100 billion target, provided if we go for value added products ◆ Most of exports is yarn, which is least in the value chain ◆ In technical textiles, US is far way ahead and making huge investment in research ◆ Indian companies like Welspun& Gina Filament in technical textiles space making it good impact ◆ Cotton is a major product for India ◆ Home textiles is also a part of technical textiles and captures 50 % of market share in US ◆ Research needs to be applied research and need not be developmental research

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Outcome of the Panel Discussion: ◆ IACC feels there is a huge opportunity to export product to USA or investment can be made at USA, greige products can be exported to US so that final processing can be done at US, so that regulatory requirements can be made at met. This will help in meeting domestic demand & US defense industry. ◆ So, 100 billion dollars can be achieved in near future. Major contribution to be made by manmade fibre and government needs to give attention with introduction of fibre neutrality measure, this will also generate employment in the sector. ◆ The world ration for made ups is 60 % and other 40 %.

Align your company with the growing authority in Textiles 78

Panel Discussion II: Current Textile Product Basket from India to USA and How to Expand, Develop & Diversify.

L to R: Mr. Arvind Sinha, Advisor, IACC Textile Forum; Mr. Prem Malik, Vice Chairman, NSL Textiles Ltd; Mr. AmolGaikwad, General Manager, TRIMS (CVBU), Tata Motors Ltd.; Ms. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, Apparel Export Promotion Council; Mr. Kailash R.Lalpuria, Executive Director & CEO, Indo Count Industries Ltd.; Mr. Anjani Prasad, Managing Director, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, Advisor, IACC, Textile Forum [Moderator] He mentioned that; ◆ Business Prospects with USA needs to be improved and has lot of prospects for both countries to explore in textiles ◆ US defense forces market is itself 74 billion but product has to be made in America. Entrance to super markets will be easy. Why we are not able to deepen trade linkage with USA what are our weakness and strengths and how can we improve? Mr. Prem Malik, Vice Chairman, NSL Textiles Ltd. He spoke that; ◆ World trade 700 billion above roughly growing at 4 -5 % ◆ US in terms of textile and clothing 115 billion market for imports. China holds 36 % market share ◆ Home textiles India has really done well. Total market share 15.6 billion dollars, India has 2.8 billion dollars of exports to USA, India holds 16 % market share. Relative terms, India has achieved on two items bed sheets and towels. Poly cot Pakistan has a major share and India May - June 2019

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Mr. AmolGaikwad, General Manager, TRIMS (CVBU), Tata Motors Ltd. He informed that; ◆ 40 - 45 sq. meters of fabric is used in automobile. Classified as technical textiles ◆ Classified in to various categories such as seating fabric, woven fabrics (i.e. roof lining), and third one is tyre applications, high performance requirement is air bags, heat stabilizers, air filters. Textiles is used as reinforcing areas. Quality is important ◆ Value addition is important and cost plays an important role in automobile applications ◆ Applications changes in meeting regulatory requirements. Mr. Kailash R.Lalpuria, Executive Director & CEO, Indo Count Industries Ltd. He mentioned that; ◆ Role of design studios? What are u expectations from US markets? ◆ Post quota has helped the leaders to explore global markets. Home textiles is identified as one such area which can contribute maximum revenue ◆ 85 % of textiles are exported from China, India, Bangladesh & Vietnam ◆ Bed linen came in to picture after 2005. India was well established in spinning long staple, medium staple & short staple ◆ India lags front end of the market. We changed the strategy let's invest in designing, showrooms. We have large showrooms, US, Charlotte, Manchester, Dubai ◆ Bedding side, 4 billion dollar market out of 28 billion dollar in US home textiles. 14 billion is May - June 2019

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bedding alone, 4 billion sheets, 5 billion is fashion, 3 billion is utility, 2 billion is institutional Vision is to become expand in bedding segment & value added segment, by investing in structured research and design studios

Ms. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, Apparel Export Promotion Council She mentioned that; ◆ In textiles there are 265 categories of HS Codes. India is present 46 %. 25 products are categories which are currently exported ◆ 8 billion dollars of exports of apparels only 50 % ◆ Made ups has 37 %. Textiles are minimal ◆ We are stuck to certain 20 categories which is basic cotton, manmade fibre, knitted or woven ◆ We are not there at all in outer wears, texture or value-added segments ◆ Cambodia recorded 74 % growth ◆ 20 - 25 % cost in wages cannot be looked at. Wage component needs to be lower ◆ Today's conference is important, huge opportunity in collaboration in identifying products which are in demand. For ex fitness & health apparels, which US is looking only product differentiation needs to be done ◆ Another area government official identifying 200 technical textiles code identified. Protective wear is important ◆ More products is AI driven, so new age skilling is required. We need to invest in skilling. We can think of joint ventures or finishing can be done there ◆ Plan for next 15 years, collaborative approach can be adopted. JVs can be looked at where merging of strengths needs to be done Mr. Anjani Prasad, Managing Director, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. He informed that; ◆ Ethical is crucial which textile industry can show it to the world. Ethical way of manufacturing is crucial for the textile industry ◆ Polyester recycling is possible but cotton recycling is a problem. Reactive dyes can never be stripped ◆ Some alternative solution for resins. We need to show to USA, different way of manufacturing ◆ Ring spun we are using it, No open end processes in India, are we understanding customer needs and aligning processes as per America requirement 79

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needs to explore more on those areas. Synthetic polyester needs a push. Government needs to give impetus. Major weakness for India is apparel industry, out of 115 billion dollar, 83 billion dollars' worth of imports is in apparel. India's export in terms of apparel to USA is about 3.86 Billion about 4.6 % import The scale of production is important in order to export to USA. Fibre area we are holding 7 - 8 % market share in US Missing areas such as women & girls suits, women pajamas, and women's undergarments Second area is technical textiles. This can be the areas of focus while dealing with USA

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Innovations & sustainability is the key to survival for textile industry 1000 liters of water are required to produce jeans. In dyes & chemistry industry we have solution where we can produce jeans without consuming enough water. Pigments can be used where minimal consumption of water. For example, in USA, the company is based at Seattle where there is no need of water. T Shirt is being manufactured where there is no need of washing of T-Shirt In my views, if you need to compete with China it can never on volume it should be on the basis of diversifying your product and develop niche segment

Panel Discussion III: Success Stories of Indo US Investments in Textiles

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R: Mr. Harit Mehta, Member, IACC Textile Forum & MD, Haren Textiles Pvt. Ltd.; Mr. Ajay Kohli, Senior Vice President, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd.: Mr. Pradeep K. Mukherjee, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Harit Mehta, Member, IACC Textile Forum [Moderator] He mentioned that; ◆ The journey begins with 100 Billion trade with America ◆ IACC Textile Forum & US Commercial Service will help you your business grow ◆ Nations do compete with global supply chains ◆ Yarns fabrics to garments, dies & chemicals, multitude of fabrics, technical & non-technical ◆ Nations don't compete on product & services alone, they compete on supply chains ◆ Nations do business with each other when both are treated equal & both are benefitted ◆ Through all or effort we need to make India win & USA wins 80

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Panel Discussion would focus on what we need to do when we commence business with USA Are we ready to meet their demand? Doing business with America is as easy compared to any other country? We have common belief & strong ethics in doing business with America

Four things are important from America perspective a. Cheap prices doesn't always sell b. We need to be consistent what we make and what we sell c. Adhere to your specification d. Need to change & adapt if you are willing to sell America Mr. Ajay Kohli, Senior Vice President, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. He spoke that; ◆ How we need to build & strengthen our offerings while dealing with America ◆ This is basically the value chain of the textile industry, from yarn to finished fabric, we need to look at how we recycle the fabric ◆ Offer sustainable solution to textile industry. It has three components safe, efficient & value offering. Everything we do must be safe throughout & safe to wear, efficiency means that we should maximize the use of resources by use of your productivity, efficient maximize our productivity by minimal use of resources and we talk about enhancement means inclusion of more functionality in textiles ◆ We need to value the environment. The global environment speaks about following facts: 6 million of chemicals only in textile industry 20 % industrial water pollution is contributed only by textiles 5 % of the entire land fill waste is occupied by textile industry ◆ We need to use chemicals in making it more environment friendly ◆ Innovations follows sustainability. Innovations which we have implemented smart repel, magic blue, advanced dies, earth colour this are the offerings to improve functionalities. This are digital process no capex requirement. For example:Blue magic discontinues treatment, we have applied to textile mill the process which was taking 360 mins, we could reduce the process time by 97 mins, in terms of efficiency it has reduced water consumption by 21, time 35, energy 28, chemical two and half percent May - June 2019

NEWS

He mentioned that; ◆ Textile 4.0 as a subset of industry 4.0 offers a more comprehensive, interlinked and holistic approach to manufacturing Global Trend in Textiles: ◆ With the dismantling of MFA in Jan 2015, the industry saw the opportunity in rapidly growing its global share by becoming more competitive and expanding its capacity using modern technology ◆ The retail markets in USA and in other developed countries are undergoing a huge structural change. From the traditional brick and mortar stores, internet commerce is accentuating changing lifestyles and consumer tastes by giving space to online marketing. As a business model, Amazon has emerged as the largest apparel retailer in USA. Possible Opportunities for Indian Textile Industry- Spinning Sector a. one of the key differentiators is the availability of good quality clean contamination free cottonwhere USA is at an advantage b. Import of USA cotton in to India is growing at a CAGR of 48 % from 2015 to 2017 c. Power costs in USA are one of the lowest in worldwide d. Indian entrepreneurs may assess the cost benefit balance of reshoring part of their capacities to USA

Opportunities for Indian Textile Industry (Technical Textiles): a. while India has a growing output of technical textiles, it still imports products at the upper end of the spectrum b. USA can provide technical knowledge, expertise and credibility based on its strength in R & D for the upper end c. Manufacture in the USA will enable such certified products to obtain market access globally based on the accreditation Outcome of the Session: a. Softer side of doing business plays an important role b. Performance & trust building is key to sell business c. Add more products to the existing business

View of the Audience

Kindly Note: In response to the success of Textile Conference, IACC Textile Forum intends to take a delegation to North Carolina & South Carolina to visit the state of art manufacturing plants based at respective states and create a strong nexus among policy makers and key stakeholders to boost textile trade between two countries.

Industry Experts invited first time as ITMA Speakers Finance forum to add practical insights into textile sector financing and funding An exciting and diverse panel of industry experts has been invited to share future trends, rare insights and strategic solutions at the ITMA Speakers Platform. This is the first time that experts from non-exhibiting commercial organisations have been invited to participate. The Speakers Platform is part of the ITMA Innovation May - June 2019

Lab, a special feature launched to promote innovation excellence in the textile and garment industry. At a time when the industry is facing massive disruption, intense competition and global challenges, the owner of ITMA, CEMATEX - the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, strives to add greater value to participants' experience at ITMA 2019. Mr. Fritz Mayer, President of CEMATEX, explained: "It is critical for the global textile, garment and fashion 81

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Pradeep K. Mukherjee, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd. Mr. Pradip Mukherjee, played video showing Use of Disruptive Technologies in Manufacturing USA. With the introduction of disruptive technologies using digital transformation, manufacturers can now achieve higher productivity, reduce labour costs and shorten lead times between order and supply.

NEWS industry to collaborate and to share perspectives and best practices. In the past, the Speakers Platform featured only presentations by Research and Innovation Pavilion exhibitors." He added, "As the world trends towards Industry 4.0 and grapples with sustainability challenges, we would like to offer ITMA as an inclusive platform for all stakeholders to converge and work together to address the challenges we face in today's rapidly evolving world. Hence, we have invited non exhibitors, as well as all ITMA exhibitors to add greater vibrancy to the Platform." By having industry experts who are not ITMA exhibitors to give their presentations, CEMATEX hopes to encourage cross-pollination of ideas and spotlight best in class solutions. The invited industry speakers will join ITMA 2019 exhibitors selected to make their presentations based on these themes: ◆ ◆ ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

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Innovative Raw Materials & Manufacturing Technology Strategic Business Innovation through Automation &Digitalisation Technical Textiles Innovations and Manufacturing Technology Sustainable Textile & Garment Manufacturing in the Circular Economy

Response from industry professionals has been positive. Well-known experts who have confirmed their acceptance to speak include Yoel Fink, CEO of Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA). He will address the topic, 'Textile Sensors - Applications and Market Growth'. Other renowned speakers are: ◆ Lutz Walter, Director Innovation & Skills, EURATEX, will present 'towards a 4th Industrial Revolution of Textiles & Clothing - Strategic Innovation & Research Agenda: Results in Practice & Way to Go'. ◆ RakhilHirdaramani, Manufacturers Committee Chair, World Federation of the Sporting Goods Industry (WFSGI) will provide insights on 'Digitisation&Realisation of Data of the Shop Floor'. ◆ NavaidBaqai, Director, Global Textile of Cotton Council International (Cotton USA) will speak on the 'Impact of US Cotton and Its Technical & Financial Performance. ◆ Peter Sestic, Lead Development Engineer, Sigmatex UK, will highlight 'The 'Breakthrough Aerospace Materials' Project (BAM) on Devel82

opment of 3D Woven Textile Composites in the Aerospace Industry'. On the sustainability front, leading industry practitioners will share their viewpoints and solutions: ◆ Sophie Mather, Strategic Director, The Microfibre Consortium will share advice on 'Prevention of Microplastic Release into the Aquatic Environment during the Washing of Synthetic Clothes: Results of the Cross Industry Agreement CIA)'. ◆ René Bethmann, Innovation Manager (Materials & Manufacturing), Vaude, will share 'Vaude Expectations from Raw Materials Suppliers in the Sense of Sustainability'. ◆ Natalia PapuCarrone, Research Analyst, Textiles Programme, Circle Economy, will update on 'Towards a Zero Waste Textiles industry: The Endof-use Value Chain'. ◆ Roian Atwood, Director of Sustainability for Wrangler and Lee Jeans, will provide details on 'Engaging the Global Supply Chain to Drive Greater Social & Environmental Performance'. ◆ Lisa Rosengren, Head of R&D Raw Material, Fristads AB, will speak on 'Measuring the Total Impact of a Garment - Environmental Product Declaration'. Finance forum As a value-add to ITMA participants, professionals from the finance industry have been invited to share their expertise at the Speakers' Platform. They include: ◆ Andrea Rossi, Head of International Business Support, ServiziAssicurativi del Commercio Estero (SACE) ◆ Andreas Oel, Client Advisory, Large Enterprises & Reinsurance, Swiss Export Risk Insurance (SERV) ◆ Julian Paisey, Senior Policy Analyst Export Credits Division, Credits Division, OECD Export ◆ Christina Lutz, Export Finance Specialist, Landesbank Baden-Württemberg ◆ CengizBekret, Senior Manager - Sales and Business Development BNP Paribas Leasing Solutions ◆ Patricia Polo, InstitutionalRelationsUnit, Compañía Española de Seguros de Crédito a la Exportación (CESCE) Mr. Charles Beauduin, Chairman, ITMA Services, said: "Finance and managing risk are critical to the success of any business. At a time when the textile and garment sector is undergoing major technological transforMay - June 2019

NEWS mation, businesses are faced with the challenge of finding sources to fund investments in new technologies, including green solutions. At the forum, participants will be able to get practical advice which will help them make better financing decisions." To be held from 21 to 25 June, the Speakers Platform will also feature panel discussions. Interested participants can get programme updates from itma.com and the app. ITMA Innovation Lab In addition to the Speakers Platform, the ITMA Innovation Lab features three other components: Research & Innovation Pavilion, Innovation Video Showcase and ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award.

Featuring the theme, Innovating the World of Textiles, ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. The exhibition will feature 1,700 exhibitors who will be showcasing their latest technologies and sustainable solutions for the entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain, as well as fibres, yarns and fabrics. Online visitor registration is open and early bird rates for badges will end 15 May 2019. For more information, please contact: Ms Daphne Poon ITMA Services Tel: +65 94789543 Email: daphnepoon@itma.com www.itma.com

Rieter Awarded Large Contract from Egypt ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Contracts signed for seven projects Contract comprises delivery of compact- and ringspinning systems Total amounts to roughly CHF 180 million Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019; sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years

The order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years. The contracts were signed at the ITMA in Barcelona, Spain, by Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, Chairman Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, and Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO Rieter.

For further information please contact:Rieter Management Ltd. Investor Relations Rieter Holding Ltd. Kurt Ledermann Chief Financial Officer T +41 52 208 70 15 F +41 52 208 70 60 investor@rieter.com www.rieter.com Rieter Group has signed contracts with the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), at the ITMA 2019. These seven projects entail a total of 180 million Swiss francs. The contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems over the next two years. This order is part of a comprehensive modernization program of the Egyptian textile industry. May - June 2019

Media Relations RelindisWieser Head Group Communication T +41 52 208 70 45 F +41 52 208 70 60 media@rieter.com www.rieter.com 83

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dr. Klapper was very pleased at the formal signing of contracts: "We would like to thank our Egyptian business partners for the confidence they are placing in Rieter by awarding us this contract. Rieter has been the partner of choice of the Egyptian spinning industry for decades. We are delighted to be given the opportunity of making such an important contribution to the modernization of the Egyptian textile industry."

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet - 'Source India 2019' Date : 21st to 23rd August, 2019 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. MuraliBalkrishna, Joint Director The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council Tel. : +91-22-62318282 E-mail : murali@srtepc.in Website : http://www.srtepc.in VIBRANT Terry Towel - Global Expo & Summit 2019 Date : 25th to 27th September, 2019 Venue : Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskutik Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari Sugar Factory Area, Hotgi Road, Solapur - 413 224 Maharashtra, India Contact : Mr. Rajesh Goski, CEO - VTT GES 2019 Textile Development Foundation, P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road, Solapur - 413 006 Mobile : +91-9422459001 E-mail : rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.com, Website : www.vibrantterrytowel.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Global Textile Forum - Bangladesh Vision 2022 Gearing up for New Generation Textiles Date : 20th to 21stSeptember, 2019 Venue : Radisson Blu, Dhaka, Bangladesh Contact : Mr. Ashok Veda The Textile Association (India) M.P. Unit Mobile : 9826047355, 9425064568 E-mail : taimpunit@gmail.com, Ashokveda007@gmail.com Great India Textile Show Date : 15th to 17th November, 2019 Venue : Station Road, Ichalkaranji, Dist.: Kolhapur (MH) Contact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha Essential Events & Trades Fairs M. : +91-9324077881, +91-9718514089 E-mail : mkt.essential@gmail.com Website : www.essentialtradefairs.com 3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition (ITMACH) Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawala Mob. : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401 E-mail : info.itmach.com / amey@itmach.com 84

Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019 Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani, Mobile : +91- 9833977743 E-mail : info.itmach.com Website : www.ITSE.com ABROAD 5th Edition - Intex South Asia 2019 Date : 13th to 15th November, 2019 Venue : BMICH (Sirimavo Bandaranaike Exhibition Centre) Colombo, Sri Lanka Contact : Mr. Narendra Sharma, Project Associate Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. 309, Parvati Premises, Sun Mill Complex, Lower Parel (W), Mumbai - 400 013 Tel. : +91-22-4037670 Ext.702, Mobile : +91-9821232723 E-mail : intexfair@worldexindia.com Website : www.intexfair.com International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition (ITME AFRICA) Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020 Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Contact : India ITME Society 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021 Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834 Fax : 022-2285 1578, M.: 7303456667 E-mail : itme@india-itme.com, itme@itme-africa.com Website : itme-africa.com 19th International Exhibition on Textile Industry Date : 25th to 28th November, 2019 Venue : Shanghai New International Expo Centre Website : www.shanghaitex.cn

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to recheck the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans. May - June 2019