September 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 09 l Pages 43 to 106
w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m
Importance of Employer Branding: How companies can attract top talents?
Growing popularity of local products driving entrepreneurs to open their own fashion brand
Bangladesh’s home textile market share is rising in global market
See advertisement at page 53
Editorial
Importance of Employer Branding: How companies can attract top talents? It is vital that the company stretch its outreach, and one of the fastest ways is social media. Abdullah Talha Deputy Managing Director, Noman Group, Chief Operating Officer, Noman Terry Towels Mills Limited (NTTML) Talents in the industry are becoming scarce. It is becoming challenging for companies to attract top talents. Talents are now concentrated within a few multinationals companies. Many of the local companies are unable to attract the talents because they are not using the right tools. We have branded our companies for attracting consumers for a long time, but it is now similarly essential to attract talents and employee. Mission and Vision 1. The company has to establish their mission and vision. The cultural objective vastly depends on it. It is essential that the company begin the business with keeping these things in mind. However, it is possible for the vision and mission to change, as Samsung has become an electronic giant from a small local company trading text and groceries (Source: Samsung: A short history–The Mercury News). If a long-running company does not have the mission and vision, then the top management should take responsibility and create one. 2. The cultural objective is fundamental, and many of the companies in Bangladesh do not have that. The cultural objective should be created in the beginning. However, if a long-running company does
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure: International and diverse marketing team of Noman Terry Towel Mills Ltd. posing for the Messe Home Textile Fair in Frankfurt 2018
not have any cultural objectives, then it should sit down with the leadership and discuss the top three cultural attributes it wants to focus. Noman Group’s top three cultural goals are, • Result Oriented, • Order and Discipline • Growth, based on that the company should share the stories in the social media. 3. The company can choose people from their current team or company to post and share activities online. Outreach It is vital that the company stretch its outreach, and one of the fastest ways is social media. Most of the
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companies do not use this, but we have to do this in this era of information and technology. Companies should encourage employees to post their culture activities on social media such as Facebook, and LinkedIn. Companies must encourage them to join groups and enhance their online profile, like in LinkedIn. Ask them to share the top internal stories in the social media as much as possible. Tell the employees to expand their offline and online networks. Instruct them to upload all the business cards and information on cloud and use tools to always keep in touch. Promote engagement It is vital that the company put
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An initiative of Textile Today
Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...
The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Akhi Akter SN Abdullah Sub Editor Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator
‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.
Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication Major Factory Tales Services are
Nizam Uddin Shipan Head of Design and Branding
Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning) Best Practice Story Building
Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing
(Marketing/Branding Story)
Brand Manual Making
(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)
Photography & Videography
(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Brand Communication- PR Services
Yeasin Mia Graphic Design
Ashraful Alam Cinematographer
Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer
Riasad Rion Executive, Web & IT
Amenities of Factory Tales
Identical position in the industry
Buyer and consumer loyalty
Vantage in price negotiation
Employer Branding
New business possibility
Robust & sustainable business
Award on best practice
Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com
25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com
Editorial
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
their fun activities out there. They can post fun events to celebrate success, promote team building with picnics and trips, and more. Make sure that the employees spread the positive word of mouth, and this will create a strong impression. The company can post stories with pictures and data is the second best way. The local companies such as textile and other manufacturers are going through a difficult transition. It is essential that the company take advantage of these tools and start generating a strong talent pool. The professional way to grow The talents in the industry are not only motivated by money, but Noman Group research has also found
a few ways to motivate employees. • Involvement: The Company needs to make sure that the employees in the company are involved in most of the decision making and work. The company has to give employees challenging projects and rotate their jobs regularly. They must be engaged fully in their work, and this is the best way to involve them. • Learning and Growth: The talented professional always want to grow, and the best way is to teach and coach them regularly. Training them in-house and from top schools, these are a few ways to do so. • Higher Purpose: It has been found that higher purpose plays
a significant role in employee retention. Human as a species has developed to be a part of the community and help it; it is how we have been a part of a tribe or civilization in ancient times. If the company can treat its primary goals by assisting the universe, the employees will be highly motivated. It is how the NGO employees are motivated enough to travel to the poorest and riskiest areas in the world, to achieve the higher purpose. All companies should start planning for Employer Branding across the board. The Human Resource department must put it on priority. Employer Branding is an extensive subject, and we should pursue it.
DBL and Epyllion Group honored as ‘Superbrands Bangladesh’ Total 29 companies have achieved ‘Superbrands Status’ for two years. They can use the ‘Superbrands Awards Seal’ on their advertising materials and product packaging during the period. Staff Correspondent DBL Group and Epyllion Group from textile industry along with 27 brands from different industries have been honored as ‘Superbrands Bangladesh’ for two years period (2018-20) at a ceremony at the Radisson Blu Dhaka Water Garden hotel on 1 September 2018. A distinguished panel of 12 prominent brand experts known as ‘Brand Council’ selected the Superbrands. Executive Chairman of Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA) Kazi M Aminul Islam illumined the award ceremony as chief guest. Superbrands is a global media, communications and publishing business, which operates in more than 90 countries around the world. It is an organization that promotes the discipline of branding. Brands which have achieved
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Superbrands and recognizing Bangladesh’s Superbrands will play a key role in our economic journey,” Shariful Islam, Coordinator of Superbrands Bangladesh, said at the ceremony.
“Superbrands Status” can use the ‘Superbrands Awards Seal’ on their advertising materials and product packaging. A Superbrand offers significant emotional and physical advantages over its’ competitors which consumers want, recognize and are willing to pay a premium for. “As Bangladesh steps into the next phase of progress and development, being part of global
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DBL Group, Epyllion Group, Abul Khair Steel, Eastern Bank, Grameenphone, IPDC Finance, Singer Bangladesh, The Daily Star, ACI Aerosol, ACI Salt, Bashundhara LP Gas, Bashundhara Paper Mills, Bata, Beximco Pharmaceuticals, BRB Cable Industries, Channel i, Elite Paint, Energypac Power Generation, Matador Group, Meghna Group of Industries, North South University, Parachute Advanced, Pride Ltd, Radio Today, Rupchanda, Shah Cement, Shanta Holdings, Shwapno and Super Fresh Drinking Water are selected as the Superbrands.
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S e c t o r A n a l y s i s - H o m e Te x t i l e s
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Bangladesh’s home textile market share is rising in global market The country is emerging as one of the leaders in global home textile production and export arena. Abir Basak Home textile is one of the first line export sector in Bangladesh also known as decorative textile. Due to quality and diversified range of products, the country’s production of the home textile is being increased day by day. In the mid-nineties, local industry entrepreneurs concentrated in making home textiles, while Bangladesh entered the export market in the 1980s with knit items. This sector, initially has seen losses, has gradually started to return to the growth trend over time. In this fiscal year, the export revenues of this sector can touch billions of dollars - that is the expectation from the concerned people. Home textile factories in Bangladesh are very less compared to woven or knit garments. 25-30 companies in Dhaka, Gazipur and Chittagong arena are producing home textile items. However, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics, Mosharraf Group, Saad Musa Group, Alltex, ACS Textile, Apex Weaving, Regent, JK Group, Classical Home etc. have established as strong exporters. Among them, Noman Group’s Zaber & Zubair Fabrics is the pioneer home textile marketer in Bangladesh. In recent times, many entrepreneurs are showing keen interest to invest in this sector and they are coming forward. Big groups are extending their manufacturing plants for home textile. Bangladesh exports different types of home textile products including bed sheet,
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Figure 1: Home textile items are displayed at Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd.
home textile products, which is 60 to 70 percent of the global market. In addition, the exporters of these products are China, India, Pakistan, Turkey and Bangladeshi entrepreneurs mainly. In 2016, global textile and apparel trade stood at US$ 743 billion, while the share of other categories such as fiber, yarn and fabric has decreased. Home textile has maintained its share of 6% over the past five years.
Major producers of home textiles in Bangladesh Zaber & Zubair Fabrics, Saad Musa Group, Alltex, Mosharraf Group, ACS Textile, Apex Weaving, Regent, JK Group, Classical Home bedspreads, pillow, pillow covers, cotton table napkins, furnishing fabrics, curtains, window and door curtains, cushion, cushion covers, carpets, table covers, kitchen accessories, mattress covers, bath linen, and other home furnishings etc. Global home textile market The home textile market registers a robust growth and experts say the demand is expected to reach 160+ billion dollars by 2025. The United States and EU countries import lion’s share of
According to Technavio, a research firm, the global home textiles trade is valued at US$ 118 billion in 2017 and will reach US$ 131.5 billion by 2020 and US$ 180 billion by the end of 2025, growing at a CAGR of 3.5% or more during 20182025. Carpets were the top traded category valued at US$ 14 billion. While table linen, furnishing and carpets have been growing at a negative CAGR of 5%, 2% and 1% respectively, bath/kitchen linen has shown the maximum positive CAGR of 3% and an increase in the share of 1% too.
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Figure 2: Home textile items are displayed at Mosharraf Group.
The top 10 importing nations contribute to about 80% of the home textiles market. EU-28 is the largest market for home textiles with a share of 36% and import value of $17 billion. This is followed by the US with an import value of $11 billion and a share of 24%. Japan, Canada, Australia, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Russia and Thailand constitute the top markets for global home textiles. Thailand has emerged as a market for home textiles in the last five years with a CAGR of 22% but at a small base value. Japan is the third largest market for home textiles is declining with a CAGR of 6% over a period of five years due to the economic downturn and demographic issues. Russia, facing similar issues, has shown a downfall of 18%, thus losing ranks in the list of major markets but is expecting some growth going forward.
According to the Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) and Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh earned US$ 150 million by exporting home textile products in the FY 2004-05. In addition, this export income has been increased to about US$ 753.01 million in the FY 20152016. In the middle years, the export growth had fluctuated, also indicated to earn better revenue as well. the most popular segments and contribute to two-thirds of the total home textiles market while kitchen linen, curtains, upholstery and carpets/rugs make up for the rest of the share. According to the Bangladesh
Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) and Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh earned US$ 150 million by exporting home textile products in the FY 200405. In addition, this export income has been increased to about US$ 753.01 million in the FY 20152016. In the middle years, the export growth had fluctuated, also indicated to earn better revenue as well. Exports of Bangladesh touched the highest revenue of US$ 906.07 million in the 2011-12 fiscal years. EPB has set an export target of US$ 900 million for the home textile sector in the current fiscal year. The scenario of Bangladesh’s rival countries China, Pakistan, India and Turkey are the main competitors of Bangladesh in this case where the country is in the 5th position. Vietnam, Taiwan, Cambodia or other manufacturers cannot reach at the level of Bangladesh yet but their gains are remarkable. In 2016, more than $26.86 billion worth of home textiles were imported from outside the EU, according to the data from the European Apparel and Textile Confederation, Euratex. Of the sum, China accounted for 33%, Pakistan 25%, India 16%, and Turkey 11%. Bangladesh’s share was 7-8%. According to the South China Morning Post & China Home Textile Association, China exports now
The booming Bangladeshi trade Just a decade ago, buyers thought that home textile products are only produced in China, India, Pakistan and Turkey. However, the situation has been changed; the name of Bangladesh has been added with these countries. The growth of home textiles is inevitable in the Bangladeshi market as customers look out to have a unique showcase at their home and office, and do not hesitate to spend the same. Bed and bath linen are Figure 3: Mosharraf Group also has a range of unique and exclusive home textile products.
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markets towards the increasing demand for healthier and more environmentally friendly products and quickly adapts itself to developments in legal and technical regulations. Many manufacturers in the sector are able to produce with quality and environment management systems. Buyers always want quality fabrics when it comes to home textiles products. To manufacture quality fabrics, the latest technology is must for any company.
800 600 400 200 0
2016-17 2015-16 2014-15 2013-14 2012-13 2011-12
Figure 4: Bangladesh home textile exports in million US$ (source: BTTLMEA)
around US$ 18bn valued home textile item in the world and expects to grow minimum US$ 32bn within next four years. Cotton cultivator the Indian domestic consumption of home textiles contribute US$ 4.8 bn according to statistics, a research firm. Considering the advantages of raw material base, design content, skilled manpower-the home textile industry can achieve higher levels of growth than the present. Pakistan already remains apex in this sector than Bangladesh due to having its own cotton and GSP+ facilities. Besides Pakistan government gives some extra subsidy packages for lifting up the industry. Technological advancement brings the country’s revenue up to US$ 6.2 billion in 2016-17. On the other hand, the implementation of the ChinaPakistan Economic Corridor, the Chinese industrial zone Xinjiang is going to join the Arabian Sea through Pakistan. This means a China-Pakistan export trade is going to be more dynamic. The Turkish home textile industry is the world’s fourth-largest supplier and the EU’s second largest supplier. As a result, at the end of 2017, the total exports of home textile is recorded as 3.6 billion USD out of 25 billion USD of their apparels & RMG, according to Turkey Economy Ministry. To accelerate their business every year Turkey arranges trade fair on home textiles named ‘Evteks’ &
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‘Hometex’. The reasons behind the upcoming lead of Bangladesh Experts believe that Bangladesh’s position in this sector will reach in the top soon. • Investments in research New investments in fabrics and garments manufacturing are playing a key role in establishing Bangladesh’s dominance in the US and EU markets. However, manufacturers are also investing in research and development of high-end products, helping them get a better price. Meanwhile, improvement of the safety standard in the apparel industry has also drawn the attention of more global buyers. • Quality and latest technology Today the Bangladeshi home textile industry is aware of the trend in international
In addition, the country’s many factories have already established that and other are establishing. Bangladesh still cannot reach in China or Pakistan level in this sector, but the buyers keep confidence on Bangladesh so much. Nazrul Islam, Lab & Product Development Officer of Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd (Noman Group) said, “Some renowned world manufacturers have also started making home textile products in natural fabrics such as soya and bamboo along with silk, polyester, and many others. We should also give more focus on the production of diversified products rather than traditional quality and design.” • Designing and Invention In a rapidly changing world, the home decoration field is very sensitive to all changes. That is why the creation of collections with innovative and modern
Others
7% 8% 33% 11%
Bangladesh Turkey India
16% 25%
Pakistan China
Figure 5: Contribution (%) of different countries in the global home textile market (source: Euratex)
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designs and motifs is essential. Bangladeshi home textile manufacturers are very conscious about fashion creation and design, which enables them to gain a special place in international markets. New and modern designs and unique motifs in this specialized sector, created by Bangladeshi intellectual designers, keep a finger on the pulse of world home decoration fashion and meet tastes and preferences. Although Bangladesh depends on more buyers’ provided design since earlier, some houses have created their own design studios to develop this lagged site. Industry insiders say, buyers are choosing manufacturer’s design gradually such as 2 or 3 own designs are being selected out of 10 which was stood at zero in previous. Hopefully, it’s a positive sign to uplift the sector and earn growth as well. If Bangladesh can make its footing stronger more in developing design and innovation, then the sky is the limit for the local home textile industry. • Sustainable growth It has to be believed that Bangladesh now considers the maximum sustainable environment to make products. Factories are working to produce numerous products through the sustainable practices, which are being appreciated by the buyers. Therefore, this culture will keep ahead to the home textile business of the country. • Government Support Bangladesh has a stable and supportive government, who has launched various support schemes for textile and apparel manufacturers to make them globally competitive. The schemes targets are technology up gradation, infrastructure development, to develop more EPZ zones, export promotion etc. Various ministries- including industry, commercial, finance, jute & textiles, planning- have also announced their textile policies
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aimed at attracting investments in the country. The Bangladeshi government has made focused efforts in improving economic systems to attract foreign investors, enhance international trade, and increase transparency. As a result, Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) inflows into Bangladesh in 2017, 2016 & 2015 calendar year were recorded to be US$ 215 crore, US$ 233 crore & US$ 223 crore respectively, according to United Nation’s Trade and Development Organization named ‘The United National Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). Remaining difficulties Traders say that there was no expansion of the home textile market since last few years as per expectation. Currently, there is a lot of work orders coming from abroad, but it is not possible to provide. However, if the uninterrupted gas-power and low-interest bank loans will be available, then it will be possible to increase the export earnings rate within the next five years. Europe and America’s major retailing companies like IKEA, Carrefour, Asda, Littlewood, Maurice Phillips, Wal-Mart and Redcats are importing home textile products from Bangladesh. As demand is increasing, domestic producers are also increasing their product range, and they’re going to expand the industries. Major importing brands of home textile products from Bangladesh IKEA, Carrefour Asda Littlewood Maurice Phillips Walmart Redcats However, the price of cotton and its continuous supply for the home textile sector are the biggest problem, said the entrepreneurs. Bangladesh is far behind here
than China, India and Pakistan. They can control 40 to 50 percent production costs easily themselves because of their own cotton supply. Bangladesh has to depend on the fluctuations in the price of the world market. Because Bangladesh can meet only 2 percent of the domestic demand by cotton. The remaining 98 percent is imported. In addition, despite having huge potential in home textile, Bangladesh is slightly unable to expand its market share in the European Union because of duty benefits extended to Pakistan, a cotton grower. Md. Jahangir Alam, Deputy General Manager (Production) of Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd (Noman Group) said about this matter to Textile Today, “As cotton is a seasonal product, we have to import cotton for five to six months together. It stops a huge amount of money. Higher interest rates are to be counted for bank loan. Moreover, to import cotton, 5% imported cost is spent. Due to these reasons, the price of our products has increased.” But, Md. Jahangir Alam does not want to see the problem of cotton as the main reason. He added, “If we get gas and electricity according to demand, it will never create a barrier. In many factories, it seems huge scarcity of gas pressure almost at the half-time of batch production. If the government reduces the interest rates of bank loans, improves communication and port competency, then it is believed a revolution can happen in this sector.” Addressing the importance of arranging and participating in intarnational fair Md. Jahangir Alam said that home textile product’s exhibition is being organized in Germany, China, and Turkey. By participating in this type of exhibition, it is actually understood that how backward we are and where the need to develop. “In Bangladesh, though fiber-
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of home textile sector. Their proposal asks everyone to show their interest to work with GSP+ instead of GSP so that Bangladesh can increase her ability to survive in export trade with competitor countries-China, Pakistan, Turkey, and India.
Proposal of BTTLMEA (for the next 10 years) 1.
To set the income tax rate is 10% and income tax deduction rate of the source is 0.25% of the home textile sector
2.
Allowing to import duty-free dyes and chemicals
3.
Providing project loans for 10 years from banks at the reduced interest rate,
4.
Providing 10% subsidy on electricity, gas bill, and market expansion at 10% rate
5.
Tax holiday opportunities for this industry
6.
Prioritizing the shipping of home textile products
yarn, dyes or denim product’s exhibitions are arranged, but only a separate exhibition for home textile products has not been organized yet. To showcase our products and to convince the world’s small and big buyers to invest in Bangladesh, there is no
Conclusion
alternative to organize such fair in this country,” he continued. Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) has given some suggestions to the government for the promotion
Bangladesh’s home textile business has a bright future. However, there is needed to create updated thinking and sufficient research opportunities. New entrepreneurs and investors have to come forward in the sector. At the same time, the government’s continuous collaboration and opposite policy supports can boost up the industry.
21 RMG firms participated in Texworld Paris Desk Report
Dress Shirt, Everbright Sweater, DD Sourcing, Hellenic Sourcing, Stylelead Fashion, Team Sourcing, and Shangu Group displayed their products in the Paris show.
A total of 21 Bangladeshi fabrics, garment, and leather manufacturers took part in an international apparel exposition titled “Texworld – Apparel Sourcing” in Paris on September 17-20, 2018. They participated in the four-day international fair under the support of Bangladesh’s Export Promotion Bureau. EPB set a national pavilion for the Bangladeshi participants. Among the Bangladeshi participants— nine are knitwear, five denim, four fabrics, and three leather manufacturers partook the world’s largest trade fair. A wide range of fashion products from major manufacturing countries like China, South Korea, India, Indonesia, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, and Pakistan also displayed at the fair, said a press release of the Messe Frankfurt. Messe Frankfurt, one of the world’s largest trade fair companies, organized the Texworld, which is one of the best options for Bangladesh RMG sector to improve their market share not just in France but all over Europe. It is considered as one of the 54
Figure: A total of 21 Bangladeshi fabrics, garment, and leather manufacturers took part in ‘Texworld – Apparel Sourcing’ in Paris. Courtesy: Messe Frankfurt
most effective apparel sourcing exhibitions in Europe for Bangladeshi exporters as a good number of buyers always visit the stalls. Bangladesh had its 7th National Pavilion under the banner of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) for the Bangladeshi participants in the fair. Exhibitors from Bangladesh which took part in the expo under Fabric category include Experience Textile, Evince Textile, Mahmud Fabrics, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics, and NZ Textile. Under Denim category Argon Denims, Chittagong Denim Mills, Mahmud Denim, and Nice Denim attended the event. Under the Apparel category- DK Sweaters, Delphitex Industries, Eve
Under Leather category- Amass Footwear, BLJ Bangladesh Corporation, and Megumi Footwear attended the program. Omer Gias, Joint Secretary (Communication and Trade fair) of BGMEA, said that, “We consider Texworld Paris one of the most effective apparel sourcing expos in Europe to participate as a good number of buyers always visit the show.” He also added that, “The Messe Frankfurt has been very successfully organizing this fair twice in a year for decades. We also witnessed the interest of our members to exhibit their products in the show”. The organizer said that, combined with Apparel Sourcing and Leather world, a total of 1,742 exhibitors participated in this edition but the fair recorded almost 15,000 visitors. Visitors came from all over Europe with a large number of buyers from the UK, France, Turkey, Spain, Italy, and Germany.
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Brand Development
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Growing popularity of local products driving entrepreneurs to open their own fashion brand Developing own fashion brands will facilitate to grab the growing demands for fashion wears in the domestic market. In addition, those brands will spread out in the international arena in near future. Textile Today Research Local entrepreneurs are expanding their footprints in developing own brands while new entrepreneurs are coming to join the race. Besides, many export-oriented companies are launching their own branded showrooms or outlets eying the local market. They also have the desire to take their brands into the global arena. A number of companies having diversified business especially involved in readymade garment manufacturing for the export purpose are entering in the local markets in last couple of years. Yellow, Texmart, Trendz, Amber Lifestyle, Plair and Sailor have already made their strong foothold with their unique products, with the other domestic marketoriented brands like Aarong, Kay Kraft, Dorji Bari, while Sara, Klubhaus, Red, and O’code are the recent ones. Local customers are accepting these brands very positively and they feel comfortable to purchase
Figure 1: Aarong is the most popular local brand in Bangladesh.
their fashion products from local brands’ outlets.
Dorzi Bari, Aarong, Anjans etc.,” said Tania Khan, a housewife.
“Local brands are offering a quality product in reasonable price. They are also providing the most up-todate trends and style. I prefer to buy all fashion wear for my family members from local brands like
Majority of them are focusing on establishing their brand names among the customers. They are targeting to capture the latest trends and style focusing the demands of consumers especially the taste of the youth. Here we portrayed some local brands set up by both local and exportoriented companies. Sara Snowtex—the export-oriented garment manufacturer has launched its own brand ‘Sara’ on May 12 this year mainly to establish retail business in the local market with ensuring own-designed and quality products at affordable prices.
Figure 2: Local brands like ‘Sailor’ are getting popularity day by day.
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The investment made by the company is worth Tk 150 million to open its first outlet in Mirpur.
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Brand Development
leading exporters of readymade garment (RMG) produces highquality garments for major players in the international market including Zara, Espirit, and Tommy Hilfiger, said Sabbir Hasan brand manager of Klubhaus. They work with a theme to design their produced clothes for local customers and one design for one item. The company initially targeted to establish its brand value among the consumers within a couple of years to let Figure 3: Snowtex Ltd. has launched its own brand ‘Sara’ on May 12, 2018. people know the brand name of ‘Klubhaus’. The company’s managing director SM Khaled said he wants his local The brands find local brands brand not only in the country but recognition, as one of the major also to set the footprint in outside challenges as there are a number the country. of such brands. However, they They want to sustain their business for a long time even during the period when Bangladesh might not be competitive in the export market. Snowtex– the $130-million annual turnover company– manufactures woven items like outwear and sportswear and exports to Europe and other countries including Canada, Russia and Japan and is in the export trade for last 20 years. The company plans to open three more outlets in the capital by the end of 2018 by blending its experience of export business with its own designed products.
want to create a brand image with quality and reasonable rate. Red Origin Red Origin is a venture of Partex Group, that have diversified business including RMG exports, furniture, and plastic manufacturing. Launched in 2013 initially, the brand came into a bigger way in 2016. Now it has six showrooms in the capital city. Sourced fabric from the local market, they have own factory
where nearly 150 people work to design and produce the clothing for the domestic market. The people who traveled across the world and purchase different types and quality of products are one of the targeted customer groups of the brand. In addition, they want those people to buy quality products from the local market. Many export-oriented companies are entering the local market and to reach the people and let them know about the quality products. Dorji Bari Md Fazlur Rahman Managing Director of the local brand—Dorji Bari—started his venture in 2003. Now the brand has a total of 38 showrooms. He has a plan to enter each district of the country with the brand name-Dorji Bari—that mainly produces men’s wear. The main targeted customer of Dorji Bari is the youth who have frequently changed their tastes. The brand tries to combine western fashion with the traditional ones. Chase the youth’s taste and cope with it is the major challenge to sustain and compete, as Dorji Bari’s main target group is the young generation, Mr. Rahman believes. The brand has a plan to expand its venture in producing kids and women wear gradually. He
Klubhaus Dekko Group having 19 business concerns joined the competition of making fashionable wears with launching its first branded showroom namely ‘Klubhaus’ on May 11, 2018. Introducing its product lines after the name of four rivers of the country—Boral, Atrai, Mogra, and Kalindi, the group now operates four outlets across the city. The group, one of the country’s
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Figure 4: Dekko Group launched its first branded showroom ‘Klubhaus’ on May 11, 2018.
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The uniqueness of it is that a customer can have a glimpse of products of some 10 renowned boutique houses at one place. They can compare at least 10 varieties and designed products and choose the one they cherish for. Yellow
Courtesy: Yellow
cherishes the dream to turn Dorji Bari as a global brand in near future. Dorji Bari welcoming the exportoriented companies in the local trade believes that it would create a competition to ensure quality products at a reasonable rate and also help develop owned designed items. Anjan’s On 15 February 1994, Anjan’s fashion started from Siddheswari in Dhaka. In 1998, it introduced the second branch in Dhanmondi. Currently, Anjan’s fashion has 22 showrooms, which includes key places of the country like Banani, Gulshan, Uttara, Panthopath, Jamuna Future Park, Chittagong, Narsingdi, Bashundhara City, Mirpur and Wari. Shaheen Ahmmed, Anjan’s proprietor and fashion designer, has brought contemporary designer collections for all seasons. “We used to participate in different fashion competitions, which are organized by different fashion magazines. As a result, we eventually gained a good reputation among the people,” he said.
Yellow is one of the oldest fashion brand launched by an exportoriented entity– Beximco group—in 2004. Currently, it has 19 showrooms in Bangladesh and Pakistan. It also operates its online store. Since origin, they have been offering world-class designs at an amazing value price. Its product line includes a wide range of fashion clothing, fragrance, and accessories for men, women, and children; textiles for home decoration; avant-garde ceramic items; paintings; books; and many more. The brand is most distinguished for its true international quality designs and fabrics. Explore YELLOW and look through our windows for contemporary global fashion trends. Richman Richman is another contemporary fashion brand in the country that designs clothes and accessories for men. It has a total of 47 showrooms across the country
including 21 in the capital city. According to Richman, ‘Committed to Quality’ is their only success story. They only design timeless clothes and accessories for men. The brand is getting huge popularity in the country. The authority has plans to establish the brand Richman in the International arena, starting from the South-Asian Market. Starting from Richman at Bashundhara City Shopping mall, fashion-forwarded formal and casual Menswear, in addition, makes the brand unique in the market. Capitalized the overwhelming response from customers, they have launched more outlets one after another in a row such as; Metro Shopping Mall, Rapa Plaza, Rifles Square, Gulshan Avenue, Uttara, Sylhet & Chittagong. “Cause of our affordable price range, trendy design, and quality product builds long lasting relation and partnership with the customers,” expressed Nazmul Hoque Khan, Managing Director, Lubnan Trade Consortium Ltd., registered as Join Stock Company and certified by ISO 9001:2000 for Quality and Assurance, which is the mother company of Richman. Currently, Lubnan Trade Consortium Ltd. is making all kinds of ethnic wear, casual wear, formal wear, ladies wear and kids wear under the brand name LUBNAN, RICHMAN & INFINITY.
Deshi Dosh Deshi Dosh is the combination of 10 major local fashion houses. They are Deshal, Nipun, Rang, Banglar Mela, Bibiana, Shadakalo, Anjans, Probortona, Nagardola, and Kay Kraft. Launched in 2009, Dehsi Dosh is now available in six locations including two in Dhaka, each one in Narayanganj, Chattogram, Sylhet, Bogra.
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Courtesy: Richman
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
aamra resources FOR APPAREL & TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
15 apparel makers get CIP cards Staff Correspondent In recognizing the contributions of the RMG sector to the national economy by establishing industry and creating jobs, Bangladesh government has awarded 15 apparel makers Commercially Important Person (CIP) for the year 2016. On Thursday, Industries Minister Amir Hossain Amu distributed CIP cards to 56 business people, including those 14 apparel makers, at Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel. On a regular basis, the Industries Ministry honored the country’s business people with CIP cards. Universal Jeans Limited, Zaber and Zubair Fabrics, Cosmopolitan Industries Limited, Pahartali Textile & Hosiery Mills, Fariha Knit Tex Limited, Viyellatex Limited, Shohagpur Textil Mills, Pacific Jeans, Envoy Textile, Badsha Textile received CIP card under the large category. While Auco Textile Limited, Madhabdi Dyeing Finishing Mills Ltd, Citadel Apparel Limited and Mosharraf Hossain Spinning Mills received CIP card under medium category and AB Fashion Maker got in cottage industry category.
Figure: Distinguished figures were present in Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel at CIP awarding ceremony for the year 2016..
In attracting investment from home and abroad, the government is establishing 100 Special Economic Zones (SEZs). However, we will give importance to create local entrepreneurs, said the minister. “Our government always aims to create new entrepreneurs and the recognition through
CIP card received in the large category
CIP card received in the medium category
Universal Jeans Limited
Auco Textile Limited,
Zaber and Zubair Fabrics
Madhabdi Dyeing Finishing Mills Ltd.
Cosmopolitan Industries Limited
Citadel Apparel Limited and Musharraf Hossain Spinning Mills
Pahartali Textile & Hosiery Mills,
AB Fashion Maker
Fariha Knit Tex Limited Viyellatex Limited Shohagpur Textile Mills Pacific Jeans Envoy Textile Badsha Textile
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CIP card would encourage new entrepreneurs to come into the business,” said Amir Hossain.
“The CIP card is recognition to the business people who contributed a lot to Bangladesh economy by investing money in industrialization and created jobs for the countrymen,” said Industries Minister Amir Hossain Amu.
He also stressed on the proper use of natural resources, as there are no limits to natural resources in Bangladesh. If Bangladesh can properly utilize the resources, it will be a developed county much before 2041, he added. “To create new entrepreneurs, Bangladesh government has to ensure single-digit loan interest as it is quite impossible to create new entrepreneurs with a 12% to 15% interest,” said the Federation of Chamber of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) President Md Shafiul Islam (Mohiuddin). A total of 20 business people received CIP cards in the heavy industry (production) category while five in the same category for the service sector. Under medium industry (production) category 12 industrialists received the CIP cards and three other people in the same category for the service sector. In small industries (production) category five business persons received CIP cards while one person in the same category for the service sector.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s
Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 09 l Pages 61 to 78
Unifill Group develops digital printing impression
How sustainability practices reduce cost of S.F. Washing
Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
Prospect of manufacturing textile chemicals in Bangladesh
U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s
S e p te m ber 2018
Raw Materials - Dyes and Chemicals
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
Prospect of manufacturing textile chemicals in Bangladesh
Besides government support, the mind set of dyes and chemicals users in Bangladesh and the mid set of global brands also has to be changed towards locally manufactured dyes & chemicals. If locally manufactured chemicals can comply with the quality and other requirements then why would we prefer using imported chemicals? Using local chemicals will reduce cost significantly. Textile Today Research The textile processing industries in Bangladesh are seeing a momentum in orders and growth in recent times. Such companies have been suffering for gas supply for quite a long time. As currently Bangladesh could resolve the supply shortage of gas by importing LNG, the dyeing, finishing and washing mills are quite in a good shape now. Though the government is going to increase price of gas, now at least the factories will not have to keep machines stopped due to gas supply shortage. On the other hand when China is closing bulk of the factories which are polluting environment, huge orders of dyeing and finishing of fabrics is flooding to Bangladesh. Growth in apparel export is also boosting the backward linkage dyeing industries. Buyers prefer to source fabric locally as it provides lower lead time and quality support benefits to them. So, the textile processing mills in Bangladesh is growing fast which is creating huge demand for textile dyes and chemicals. Bangladesh is mostly dependent on import to cater the demand of textile chemicals for the dyeing printing and washing factories. But with the increase of the size of the industry, now there is huge potential to manufacture textile chemicals in Bangladesh. Some companies are already manufacturing textile chemicals and it is growing fast. Md. Amanur Rahman, Managing Director, Dysin which is one of the leading companies supplying dyes chemicals and equipment
Bangladesh Textile Today |
has told to Textile Today recently, “Keeping the growth potential in mind we are increasing textile chemical manufacturing in Bangladesh. Dysin has increased
The local manufacturing companies have to have long term vision and plan in the business. Besides manufacturing right products they need to invest in branding communication and marketing. The local companies also need to invest in getting certificates and make sure compliance towards RSL (Restricted Substance List) and MRSL of ZDHC and other global brands.
100 percent export oriented chemical industries into 5 units in a short span of time.” He also told that their manufacturing chemicals have global compliance certificates like GOTS to comply with the global requirements. Currently there are some companies who are manufacturing some basic chemicals which are being used on textile industries there are few companies who are producing textile auxiliary chemicals. But still bulk of the textile dyes and chemicals are being imported. Globally leading chemical companies who have lion market share still have not set their manufacturing bases
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in Bangladesh yet. Experts have opined that the government has to provide right policy support for farther growth of textile chemicals manufacturing in Bangladesh. The current policy supports duty free import of chemicals for textile processing mills so there are no incentives for the local manufacturers. Recently Textile Today was talking to a Pakistan based textile chemicals manufacturing company and explored that in Pakistan textile chemical manufacturing became very matured mainly because of the policy support. Even the company like Archroma has manufacturing units in Pakistan. Most other globally leading textile chemical manufacturing companies also have their own manufacturing plants in Pakistan. Now when Bangladesh textile dyeing printing and washing industry is one of largest in the region definitely, government should come up with the policies to facilitate raw materials manufacturing inside the country which is to make the supply chain more stable. Many Chinese and multinational companies are interested to invest and manufacture dyes and chemicals in Bangladesh. Even though dyestuff manufacturing is a large scale industry and requires huge land and infrastructure, leading Chinese company Color Root was keen to invest about USD 500 million to set up manufacturing plants in Bangladesh. In an interview with Textile Today Mr. Delwar of D&D Chemicals who is Color Root’s
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Raw Materials - Dyes and Chemicals
local agent in Bangladesh told that the investment went back as they didn’t get proper support and facilities in Bangladesh. Besides government support, the mind set of dyes and chemicals users in Bangladesh and the mid set of global brands also has to be changed towards locally manufactured dyes & chemicals. If locally manufactured chemicals can comply with the quality and other requirements then why would we prefer using imported chemicals? Using local chemicals will reduce cost significantly. The local manufacturing companies have to have long term vision and plan in the business. Besides manufacturing right products they need to invest in branding communication and marketing. The local companies also need to invest in getting certificates and make sure compliance towards RSL
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
(Restricted Substance List) and MRSL of ZDHC and other global brands. Keeping the prospect of the dyes and chemical manufacturing in Bangladesh, Bangladesh University of Textiles recently opened a dedicated department for producing graduates for textile dyes and chemicals manufacturing. Many Bangladeshi professionals have foreign degree and experiences on the subject. Chemical engineers from BUET and other universities are also quite capable of producing right quality chemicals for textile industry. And so the country won’t have shortage in human resources for the sector. A report published in Textile Today August 2018 on the trend of global textile chemical manufacturing, it has been said that, the estimated dyes & chemical demand for Bangladesh’s existing export
oriented processing mills is USD 800 million. And this market is expected to grow by about 10 percent every year. Companies producing dyes and chemicals here in Bangladesh also will be able to export to the regional and other countries in the world if they rightly comply with the international requirements. Pakistan could be a good model to follow for further flourishing the dyes and chemicals manufacturing industry in Bangladesh. Existing infrastructure and gigantic local demand can be good enough to attract global chemical companies to manufacture here in Bangladesh. However major changes will still require like providing fast track services for legal approvals other utilities and business related things, making international trade and transactions easier and faster, increasing the efficiency of ports etc.
Alliance member brands to continue monitoring Bangladesh factory safety Total 400 factories have completed Alliance Corrective Action Plans (CAPs), remediation progress reaches 91 percent. Desk Report After the dissolution of the Alliance, Alliance member brands will continue to monitor conditions in Bangladesh factories from which they source to verify that those factories remain safe and going forward, an official press release said this quoting Alliance Executive Director Amb. Jim Moriarty. “We are confident that the vast majority of factories operating under the Alliance that supply our member companies will be in excellent shape and will function fully in accordance with our rigorous safety standards at the time of our transition at the end of this calendar year,” he said. “We are pleased to report that remediation of Alliance factories continues at a rapid pace,” said Jim Moriarty. 64
completions, five factories were suspended in August, which brings the total number of factories suspended to 173. This is the first time since March that the Alliance has had to suspend factories that did not make adequate progress. Figure: Alliance member brands to continue monitoring Bangladesh factory safety.
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety (Alliance) announced on 10 September that 36 more Alliance-affiliated factories completed all material components outlined in their Corrective Action Plans (CAPs) since the month of July, bringing the total to 400. To date, 91 percent of factory remediation is complete across all Alliance factories. Alliance suspends five factories for failing to progress. In addition to the new CAP
“This milestone is a testament to the hard work and dedication of everyone involved in the remediation process, from the engineers and inspectors who have guided the process, to the factory owners, managers, and workers who have made safety a priority within their factories,” said Alliance Chief Safety Officer Paul Rigby. “These factories now meet international standards of safety, something for which they should all be proud.”
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Kusters Calico Machinery Pvt. Ltd. N.H. no 48, PO. Bamangam, Taluka: Karjan, Dist.: Vadodara - 391210 India. Landline: 9624065533, 9624065511 Fax: 02666-271087 Email id: marketing@kuesters-calico.com; info@kuesters-calico.com Web: www.kuesters-calico.com
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
How sustainability practices reduce cost of S.F. Washing Biological ETP in washing sector is rare, but S.F. washing Ltd has set an example to others. FT Research Team Denim is a fast growing industry in Bangladesh in terms of production volume, quality and development. Recently the concept ‘sustainability’ has emerged as an obligatory part for the industry and many giant buyers, including H&M, Zara etc., are driving the concept to be established in the industry. Many Bangladeshi denim factories are practicing sustainability as a buyer’s requirement, however, S.F.Washing Ltd., one of the renowned and leading washing factories, is practicing sustainability in a different way. They are aware of a holistic approach to sustainability, have installed state of the art biological ETP plant and added cooling pad. They are using transparent sheets for sunlight, condenser recovery pump for saving energy and building awareness for the employees. S.F. Washing Ltd. mostly produces kids and boys items where per kg fabric’s needed avg. 45-50 liter water. Currently, their washing capacity is around 55 thousand
Figure 2: Biological ETP of 100m3 per hour capacity at S.F. Washing Ltd.
pieces per day. They are producing garments for many of the world’s renowned brands like C&A, H&M, Benetton, Mothercare, Tom Tailor, and ICS etc. Shamim Bhuiyan, ED of SF Washing Ltd, said, “The company has installed highly efficient and cost-effective biological ETP plant considering the water and energy sustainability aspects compared to other methods because of least operation and maintenance cost due to very low chemical
consumption, low labor cost, less sludge treatment, and disposal cost as well as eco-friendly.” “Joseph EGLI has supplied this treatment plant and they continuously follow up the plant and all the processes. Its treatment capacity is 100m3 per hour,” he added. Diponcor Chowdhury, Asst. General Manager of S.F. Washing Ltd said, “Earlier we had biochemical ETP plant for wastewater treatment but since 2017, we have set up a biological ETP plant aiming maximum treatment of wastewater. Also, the rainwater harvesting project is under construction.” Biological ETP in washing sector is rare, but S.F. washing has set an example to others. In the dry process, they use 3D whisker machine, 3D wrinkle demy, destroy machine and so on, which generates high temperature. This hot environment is not work friendly for the workers and considering their comfort, the
Figure 1: Ranges of denim products at S.F. Washing Ltd.
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Volume 11, Issue 09
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
management has placed cooling pad in the entire dry process floor. “Cooling pad creates a sustainable working environment for the workers and it always keeps the temperature in between 25-30 degree Celsius,” added Diponcor Chowdhury. To avoid the effects of hazardous chemical on the environment, they follow the international chemical mixing guideline strictly. And wearing safety equipment’s is a must for the workers. “Instead of fluorescent light, S.F washing installed LED light, which saves 3% electricity cost. Moreover, we are saving 20% light energy by installing a transparent sheet on top of our production floor. In
Figure 3: Transparent sheet installed on top of the production floor to save energy.
addition, to reuse the heat energy, we are using condensing recovery pump, which is remarkable,” he continued. As part of their sustainability
practice, they arrange weekly meetings, in-house training to increase the awareness of the employees by using different innovative tools and means.
H&M picks 70% of Z&Z development collections Different fashion fabric manufacturers from around the globe participated in H&M’s ‘Mill Week’ with their autumn-winter collections. Desk Report Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd, a major integrated textile producer in Bangladesh, participated with their own woven product development in the ‘H&M Mill Week’ at Shanghai, China on 27 August 2018. Zaber & Zubair hit the pitch most successfully and more than 70% of their developments has been chosen by the H&M selection team.
and new idea and they encourage the suppliers to bring new developments. It’s their continues process to guide their valuable suppliers all over the world.
Figure: Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd showed their products at H&M Mill Week in Shanghai, China.
SubodhTalukder, General Manager, Business Development; Eftekharul Islam, Sr. Manager, Sales & Marketing and K.M. Saiham Siddique, Manager, Sales & Marketing of Zaber & Zubair
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Fabrics Ltd were present at the fair and showed their developments. Every year H&M arranges this ‘Mill Week’ for their supplier. In the fast fashion era, before every season H&M hunts innovative products
Volume 11, Issue 09
“Three months prior to every season, we submit our developments. They choose design and product depends on their to requirements developed and right quality. As the core supplier of H&M, we always try to meet their requirements and regularly participate their ‘Mill Week’,” said Mozzamal Hossain, General Manager, Marketing, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd.
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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
P r i n t i n g To d a y
Unifill Group develops digital printing impression FT Research Team Printing is one of the rising sectors in Bangladesh. Considering the customer needs, digital printing demand has been increasing rapidly across the decade, which is financially rewarding for the industry. Unifill Composite Dyeing Mills Ltd, one of the renowned factories of Unifill Group, revealed an innovation in printing arena by developing a design, which seems nearly digital printed fabric in all over printing machine by employing their own strategy. Sayedur Rahman, General Manager (operation), Unifill Group, shared, “Now buyers are looking for variety in designs, they don’t want to take single design clothing much. Two years ago, as per as M&S buyer requirements, we added more colors in AOP design to get digital printing impression in all over printing machine by adopting pressure and other relevant technology.” “Buyers have willingly accepted this attractive product and appreciated us for this innovation. Moreover, we are getting more prices for digital impression than normally printed fabric,” he added.
very positive for the future digital printing industry as they offer different choices for the end users. Digital printing can satisfy the customers demand without increasing cost and waste. However, digital printing is expensive, but some forwardlooking Bangladeshi companies have started making the digital printing to fulfill the customers’ demands.
Figure 2: UDCML developing new design and concept in AOP.
In near future, we have plans to install digital printing machine in our factory because we are seeing digital print as an attractive location for investment.
A report shows that 1.9 billion sqm of digitally printed fabric represent only 5.5% of the total printed fabrics, which means the other 95% is an opportunity for digital printing technology.
SAYEDUR RAHMAN, GM (OPERATION), UNIFILL GROUP The dedicated and expert design team is continuously working on the Unifill Group to seek the attention of buyers for their designing creativity. This effort has achieved different buyers order for long terms.
Sayedur Rahman expressed, “In near future, we have plans to install digital printing machine in our factory because we are seeing digital print as an attractive location for investment.”
Unifill Group has 12-color two printing machines with knit fabric printing capacity of 8-20 ton per day and woven fabric printing capacity of 60-80 yards per day.
Figure 1: Sayedur Rahman, GM (operation), Unifill Group has shared their success story with Textile Today.
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It is creating new value and adding business opportunities for fabric printers and this development is
Figure 3: Digital printing impression developed by Unifill group through AOP.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Te x t i l e I c o n
‘Is it only the suppliers who need to pay the price for sustainability?’ As long as the customers are not giving better prices for their products, the demand to ensure sustainability and compliance will create a burden for the manufacturers. Rubana Huq, Managing Director, Mohammadi Group Mohammadi Group started operations in 1986 in garments industry with merely 52 workers; today its employees over 9,000. While the focus remains on garment manufacturing, the company has over the years diversified and excelled in various industries including Real Estate, Power Generation, Information Technology, Media and Entertainment. Mohammadi Group Achieved ‘Gold Supplier’ award from H&M for the Year 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016.
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Rubana Huq, Managing Director of Mohammadi Group, revealed her thought on automation, skilled manpower, sustainability, fair price and so on. The prominent women entrepreneur also suggested women entrepreneurs to come forward and take entrepreneurial positions. Here is the glimpse of the discussion for Textile Today readers. Textile Today: As far as we know, the knitting process of Mohammadi Group is fully automated. How is automation
helping your company in terms of production cost, labor cost, and lead-time? Do you think automation is a threat for garments workers? Rubana Huq: Human resources actually are the best asset of Bangladesh. So, when we talk about automation, we also talk about some threats that come along with automation. As a group, we are not fully automated. We are semi-automated. Especially we have applied automation to our sweater sector. But automation is
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Te x t i l e I c o n
not the only thing that basically brought the industry forward. It is value-addition in terms of designing and also beating the seasonal challenge in sweater remains as the biggest challenge because we work for 8 months and we do not work for four months. Labor is the biggest asset for Bangladesh. Therefore automation does pose some threat to our manufacturing sector. However, when we consider automation we also consider a reduction in labor cost and we also consider the factor of efficiency. Productivity is not something that Bangladesh is great at. The average productivity is less than 50 percent still. So when it comes to sweaters, for design capability and for the pace automation is required. And as a group we are semiautomated, we are not fully automated. We have done a careful balancing. The point is a careful balance has to be carefully considered as well. Because in our woven sector when we have been trying to cut down on labor and when we have tried eliminating the helpers from the lines we have seen productivity with the automation but also these jobs have been lost. Not to a great extent but they have been lost. Now I hope that these labor would be able to go somewhere else and find some work. The point is that the lack of diversification in this sector still poses a great threat. Because unless we diversify into other sectors labor will face a challenge because it is the era of automation and automation will continue to grow. And yes it does help to reduce our production cost. Textile Today: You know that the scarcity of skilled manpower is a big problem for the industry. What do you think-Should we hire foreign employees or improve the skills of existing manpower to remove this problem? Rubana Huq: Lack of skilled labor has always been a challenge for
Bangladesh Textile Today |
the industry because of a lack of skilled labor we have limited productivity and we are still struggling to achieve the optimum. Sri Lanka is way ahead of us. They have almost 80-85 % productivity. In terms of being competitive, we also need to improve our labor skills. But labor skills are not the only challenge. There is more. There is a mid-level management challenge that we face as well. Most of the times we cannot delegate much to our mid-level management because we have not been able to train them up as well. So most of the times, when there are some problems or disturbance in the factory its mostly coming from the challenges of mid-level management not being able
The point is in order to be that sustainable we also require our products to secure better prices. You know, as long as our customers are not giving us better prices and as long as they keep on demanding our levels of sustainability and compliance to grow up I don’t think it is going to be a very fair deal. to address the concerns of the workers properly. So, there comes the question of hiring experts from abroad. We have Indians, we have Sri Lankans we have other nationalities as well in the industry. This has to come down. Because it is a mature industry and we have reached a point where we really don’t need foreign supervision or direction to run our industry. In terms of compliance, in terms of management, in terms of productivity and you know the level of Bangladeshi product has also not gone up to a great extent. We are still at a very basic level. So, I think that we have
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that capability of managing our factories by ourselves. In case if we cannot then we should see consultants only in products which are value-added. Suppose, if it is a suit factory then we may need to hire consultants from abroad. But for basic products that we are very used to in this country, I see no reason behind employing experts in our soil and watch a huge foreign currency loss. Textile Today: Maintaining sustainability is very important for the planet, people and profit. How do you maintain the sustainability issues on your garments factory? Do you have any sustainability management department? Rubana Huq: Sustainability has been an issue which has been our production discourse lately quite a lot. What has been happening is that we have more conscious consumers abroad who worry about where the product is made. We have more conscious customers wondering about where the cotton is coming from. We have more consumers wondering clothes are washed. So, you know it’s a whole chain of sustainability. Sustainability is not anymore an option. It is a definitive choice. So, in order to be sustainable all of us have to grow up our sustainability department. For ourselves, we still let our HR & compliance people manage our sustainability. However, it’s a department that required a full pledged concentration. The point is in order to be that sustainable we also require our products to secure better prices. You know, as long as our customers are not giving us better prices and as long as they keep on demanding our levels of sustainability and compliance to grow up I don’t think it is going to be a very fair deal. So, we need to put additional pressure on our customers just to make them aware that as long as they are putting enough pressures on us on improving our sustainability levels
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and compliance levels they also need to be critically aware of their own margins. Because we need to be paid the right and the fair price. If you are talking about fair supply and if you referring to fair supply chain all the time you need to also conscious about fair sourcing practice as well. Therefore, sustainability has come into the industry in different forms. For instance, we now have a Higg Index. Higg is an index, which asks us to even mark our secondary & tertiary suppliers. Therefore, that is another challenge, which is coming up. We are happy to do that. We are happy to be sustainable. Because the earth has to be a sustainable place for the next generations to come. However, the point is who is paying the price for sustainability. Is it only the suppliers who need to pay the price for sustainability or buyers are also part of the challenge game? Textile Today: Mohammadi Group mainly produces woven garments, lingerie garments, and sweater. Do you have any plan to increase your product range? Rubana Huq: We have woven, we have laundry and we have sweaters in our group. As far as the expansion plans are concerned I sincerely believe that you know it’s the value-addition that we should be targeting and not just capacity extension of what we have. Because that is not going to bring any good results for any of us. In addition, whoever is in the industry I would also like to appeal to all of them to optimize their production lines and think about producing the next better product instead of just increasing lines. Because adding another 100 lines will only get me an order of another basic product which I am not interested in. So, for us the suppliers the keyword should be the fashion challenge, the lead time challenge and of course the product challenge. If we are able to somehow address these three areas, we should be set for the
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next two decades at least. Textile Today: As a prominent women entrepreneur what is your suggestion for the new women entrepreneurs? How should they start, what types of challenges will they face and how should they overcome that? Rubana Huq: Very unfortunately, we do not have enough female entrepreneurs in this sector. Maybe because there is a hick of access to capital is still very much no deal for anyone who seeks a loan in this sector. I do not think it’s just women not getting loans or not having access to loans that creating the barrier for women
If you are talking about fair supply and if you referring to fair supply chain all the time you need to also conscious about fair sourcing practice as well. Therefore, sustainability has come into the industry in different forms.
sector. So the gender priority must come in. In terms of trade union leaders, in terms of workers getting promoted to supervisory levels and managerial positions and of course for more female entrepreneurs to be able to come there must be an incentive. There must be an incentive for female entrepreneurs to come into this sector. Because I believe it makes a difference being a woman in this sector. We have more empathy than men. So, when I work on a production floor, I automatically display a lot more empathy. I communicate a lot more than any of my male counterpart and I am absolutely confident about that. So my walking creates another level of confidence for my female workers. So for the betterment of the industry and for the smooth functioning between owners & labors I sincerely believe that female should come forward and take an entrepreneurial position to change the current scenario. Textile Today: After the death of Mr. Anisul Haque do you find any management problems in your business?
getting to the next level, I also think that it is the age-old mindset which stops women from going to the next level. If you talk about my challenge, I think I just fought back hard enough to be where I am today. However, I do not know where I am going to be the next 5 years. Because being a woman is something that conceptually we need to deal with. There is a male gage everywhere; there is a male mindset that we need to battle. If you look at today’s board of BGMEA there is not even 1 single female director in the entire board. Strangely, the sector is filled with women. 80% percent of the manufacturing is done by women. We do not even have enough female trade union leaders in the
Rubana Huq: We have been in this business for the last 20 years. We not only have garments, but we also have power plants, and we have full on a television channel. We have digital distribution, we have software, we have real estate and I am the group head. A group or a commercial entity is actually very much process based. And my late husband used to say that you are never a great CEO unless you are not missed in the office. The point is business goes on, life goes on and if you are in a leadership position your job is just to focus on the sustainability of the group and of the economy in general and just move on. Because life would not stop. Because somebody has left us, life still demands continuity. And I hope to experience no tremors in my journey because I haven’t for the last 20 years, anyway.
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Volume 11, Issue 09
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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - S u s t a i n a b i l i t y
Cadira®- a new initiative of DyStar to reduce water, waste and energy consumption Cadira ® is a new module in DyStar’s Resource Efficiency program. The concepts considerably reduce water, waste and energy consumption. Staff Correspondent DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd. organized a seminar on ‘DyStar Cadira® concept-saving valuable resources’ to launch Cadira® concept in Bangladesh on 20 September at Le Méridien, Dhaka. In the program, they discussed their new products and other accessories to show the beneficiary aspects not only for the environment but also for the supply chain of the industry. DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd. is a supplier of products and services for the textile, leather, paper, plastic, and other chemical industries. Cadira® is a new module in DyStar’s Resource Efficiency program. Their concepts considerably reduce water, waste and energy consumption. Cadira® will help brands & retailers and their production partners to save valuable resources and to reduce the carbon footprint of their textile goods. Eric Hopmann, CEO of DyStar Group, shared his perspectives on the vision of DyStar and discussed on the environment of the global textile market. He said, “I have been working for 30 years in this industry and China has had a tremendous influence on this industry from which we have however learned many lessons.” “According to the analysis of WTO in 2016-2017, the textile industry export market is about 800 billion and the Chinese industries take about 45% of this market, which is around 350 billion in exports of garments and textiles. However, in the last 3 years the global exports of Garment and Textiles have started to fall by about 100 billion USD and those of China by 50 billion USD.” he said. He mentioned two reasons behind this. “First of all, the costs of China’s Textile production
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production processes better and have invested in waste treatment facilities which are effective for the industry and will help them to stay.
Figure 1: speaking at the program, Eric Hopmann; CEO, Head of Global Sales and Marketing, DyStar Group.
Strengths of garment making, dying, finishing is so much developed in Bangladesh and the cost of manpower is so effective to grow the businesses here. That’s why we are saying Bangladesh is the key market for DyStar.
“Small and medium companies were shut down for not enhancing their processes. But Bangladesh is developing very nicely and it has reached in 2017 more than 30 billion dollars export sales. This is only the beginning of fruitful years for the Textile Industry in Bangladesh,” stated Eric Hopmann. Bangladesh has a big advantage now as compared to China. But the local producers should not repeat here what has happened there!
- ERIC HOPMANN; CEO, HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES AND MARKETING, DYSTAR GROUP are rising day by day, especially manpower but also the energy costs which are important in this sector. Another most important issue thing is the environmental situation in China as the government has embarked in cleaning up the country, forcing various textile and chemical factories to shut down.” Nowadays the textile industry is moving progressively out of China to overseas for these reasons. Many provinces in China are extremely polluted and this is why the Chinese government is pushing down the industry, which is one of the most polluting sectors in the country. 1000 chemical industries will be shut down in coming three years in the Jiangsu province as recently announced by the central government. However, big Textile Groups are handling their
Eric Hopmann said, “Strengths of garment making, dying, finishing is so much developed in Bangladesh and the cost of manpower is so effective that business will continue to grow here. That’s why we are saying Bangladesh is the key market for DyStar and we are here to give our best services to every factory for developing a concept of pollution-free industrialization, which can be cost effective too.” Jayant Khera, Vice President of South Asia said, “Firstly I am very glad to announce that we are starting a branch of Texanlab in Dhaka. We are testing here different type of dying and printing quality. Also, we are working on the development of a different type of printing auxiliaries of DyStar Company. We are also ready to provide complete digital printing solutions to our customers.” The DyStar econfidence® program is planned to provide a guarantee to our textile customers such that the dyes and chemicals we supply comply with legal requirements and to consult so that the selected products are compliant with voluntary and brand & retailer
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y S u s t a i n a b i l i t y
P T : Te c h U p d a t e
RSL (Restricted Substance List) requirements. It allows DyStar to build partnerships along the textile supply chain to foster a more sustainable textile production. The econfidence® program allows DyStar to build partnerships with the textile supply chain to foster more sustainable textile production and to meet the retailers’ RSL. Emphasizing on the word ‘econfidence®’ Jayant Khera said, “In the word econfidence®, the first part of this word ‘eco’ which have a different meaning for different people. For someone it is economy and for someone else, it is for ecology. But here from this word econfidence®, we prefer both meanings. Here we also ensure that the economic issue of the industry and resolve the ecological value, which is very much needed to make the environment clean. Because DyStar believes in quality, not quantity.” Bertram Seuthe, Global Business Development Manager discussed on ‘DyStar Cadira® Reactive/ Disperse dyes for continuous’. He explained about their different new products such as Levafix®, Remazol®, Dianix® etc. He also showed the effects of SERA
processing auxiliaries and introduced the benefits of their web-driven program – eliot®.
Figure 2: Distinguished guests from the industry were present at the program.
In the word econfidence®, the first part of this word ‘eco’ which have a different meaning for different people. For someone it is economy and for someone else, it is for ecology. But here from this word econfidence®, we prefer both meanings. Here we also ensure that the economic issue of the industry and resolve the ecological value, which is very much needed to make the environment clean. Because DyStar believes in quality, not quantity.
Reiner Werschnitzky, Global business development manager highlighted ‘DyStar Cadira® Disperse concept for polyester’ where he said about their “Optidye PES” machine and the full operation procedure of this. He also discussed their Cadira® process optimization and Cadira® full optimization process. Ghanshyam Mishra, Regional Business Development Manager Printing pointed out on ‘DyStar printing package-reactive, printing and digital’. He said about their new concept “Jettex4.0” in which they provide DyStar reactive inks like Jettex® inks. He also discussed DyStar Vat inks for digital printing and technological evolution of textile printing. Eric Hopman also said, “We need to also sometimes to cancel some products because of ecological issues. Again, for environmental protection, cost increases will be inevitable, as wastewater treatment and other waste management do have their price now”.
JAYANT KHERA, VICE PRESIDENT OF SOUTH ASIA, DYSTAR GROUP
CHTC Fong’s to present one-stop sustainable solution in dyeing and finishing at ITMA ASIA+CITME 2018 Desk Report The CHTC Fong’s Group will present the “one-stop” sustainable solution in dyeing and finishing range of “pre-treatment, dyeing, post-treatment and wastewater treatment” at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 in Hall 6, D05 and yarn conditioning and heat setting in Hall 2, E04, National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai, China from 15 to 19 October. CHTC Fong’s has been committed to the development and manufacturing of dyeing and finishing equipment for more than 50 years. In the past decades, CHTC Fong’s devoted to the
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Monforts, CHTC Fong’s dedicated in the development of Smart Dyeing and Finishing and join with the customers to build the intelligent dyeing factory.
Figure 1: most advanced heat recovery and air filtration technology.
development of energy-saving and emission reduction machines and now it becomes the basic conditions for dyeing factories. Together with its well-known brands: Fong’s, Monforts Fong’s, Xorella, Then, Goller, FWT and
CHTC FONG’S will exhibit a full line of the most advanced and innovative products and technology including our new products- Fong’s TECWIN High Temperature Dyeing Machine, THEN AIRJETWIN Aerodynamic High Temperature Dyeing Machine, GOLLER DYEPADDER ECONOMICA Nip-in-Trough, MONFORTS FONG’S MONTEX 6500 Stenter Frame Range, MONFORTS FONG’S MONTEX 6500 AIR FILTRATION OMNI
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - Te c h U p d a t e
Product Name
Description
FONG’S TECWIN
High-Temperature Dyeing Machine
THEN AIRFLOW AIRJETWIN
Aerodynamic High-Temperature Dyeing Machine
The 2018 New GOLLER DYEPADDER ECONOMICA
Nip-in-Trough with Double Impregnation Mechanism
MONFORTS FONG’S MONTEX 6500 AIR FILTRATION OMNI
Stenter Frame Range- The most advanced heat recovery and air filtration technology
FONG’S WATER RECYCLING SYSTEM
By this system, one can reuse any kind of qualified discharge water
Stenter Frame and MONFORTS FONG’S MONFONGS STRAHM HiPer Shrink Astra. In addition, CHTC Fong’s will also demonstrate the innovative smart dyeing and finishing at the booth, according to an immediate release. The potential of Industry 4.0, in combination with the drive to reduce waste and minimize raw materials usage, has led to some significant new developments by Monforts. At this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME, in Hall 6 at booth H6/D05, visitors can learn about the company’s latest Qualitex 800 control system, which along with the Web-UI app, allows the remote visualization of Monforts technologies via smartphones and tablet devices. “We are already embracing many Industry 4.0 principles in our approach to new machine concepts and the Qualitex 800 has all the intuitive features operators will be familiar with from touchscreen devices,” explains Monforts Vice-President of Sales and Marketing Klaus Heinrichs. “It is making navigation extremely easy for operators, cutting down the time required for becoming familiar with a new system and allowing complete control of all 78
Figure 2: Fong’s water recycling system.
machine parameters,” he continued. Resource efficiency is being addressed via the latest technologies such as the company’s Eco-Line for denim, based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator for minimum application of the selected finishing chemicals and the Thermo Stretch. In many textile mills globally, the cost of energy for running integrated manufacturing lines – especially those for fabric finishing that can involve numerous sequences of heating and subsequent drying – is now eclipsing the cost of paying people to operate them. The ability of the Eco Applicator to significantly reduce energy costs has seen it rapidly accepted on the market. The Monforts Thermo Stretch unit meanwhile carries out the skewing (weft straightening), stretching and drying in a continuous process. “The Eco Line system reduces energy requirements and losses, increases thermal transfer and keeps the drying energy on the textile material longer,” says Monforts Area Sales Director and Head of Product Management for Denim Hans Wroblowski. “As a
result energy savings of up to 50% are being achieved.” Monforts is also the only manufacturer which is able to offer completely integrated coating lines from a single source and at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018, the company’s specialists will be on hand to explain how its latest coating heads are being tailored to drying technology for maximum benefits. For an unprecedented range of options, Monforts now offers multi-functional coating heads for both its industrial texCoat and All-round coating units. Module options include those for screen printing, magnetic coating and knife coating, either integrated into new lines or retrofitted into existing installations. “Our system has the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and all of these options are available in wider widths,” says the company’s Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel. “Whatever your company’s specialism, we have the technologies and the process knowledge to help you take your business to the next level,” adding this Klaus Heinrichs also said, “We look forward to meeting customers old and new in Shanghai.”
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
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Editorial
Environmental and social footprint of fiber Currently, the majority of industry-scale recycling process exist solely for the mechanical recycling of cotton pre and post-consumer waste. However, mechanical and chemical innovations are coming up for blended compositions and to assure the quality of recycled fiber. Abdul Wadud CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM Almost 150 million metric tons of clothes and shoes are sold every year worldwide and it is growing with the increase of population. These huge consumption is negatively impacting environmental and social footprint. If we look at the history and the future trend of the fashion industry and the focus of type of fiber consumption, we can broadly divide into three clear eras: Table: Focus fiber of fashion industry in a different era. Time
Focus Fiber
Before 1990
Era of Natural and manmade fiber
From 1990-2020
Era of Sustainable fiber
2020 & beyond
Era of Circular Economy focusing on reuse of clothing & recycling of Pre & Post Consumer Waste + Sustainable Fiber – Animal Fiber
Global Fashion Agenda says, “73% of the world’s clothing eventually ends in a landfill, of which less than 15% is collected to recycle.” Under 1% of this regenerated into new clothing, according to research undertaken by Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The circular economy is a hot topic at the moment and it is the demand of time as over-population and over-consumption have reached a level that demands a new system of fiber production. Current
fiber system alone is not really sustainable, as a world needs more food and urbanization, we must focus to “Re-use” and “Re-cycle” on a larger scale which is basically “Circular Economy”. The challenge in the retailer side is creating growing consumer demand for the “Circular Economy” and the challenge to the recyclers of pre and postconsumer side is segregation of different types of fiber while recycling those into the fiber. It is better not to do or try it alone. There are two mentors worldwide who can help in recycling postconsumer waste, namely: • The Copenhagen Fashion Summit and • The Ellen MacArthur Foundation. At a first step, re-use production leftovers. In the second step, re-cycle Pre-consumer waste. There are two methods of re-cycling pre-consumer waste: 1. Mechanical recycling and 2. Chemical recycling Currently, the majority of industry-scale recycling process exist solely for the mechanical recycling of cotton pre and post-consumer waste. However, mechanical and chemical innovations are coming up for blended compositions and to assure the quality of recycled fiber. We have to go a long way to achieve a fully closed-loop fashion industry and we need a coordinated effort from all side in order to
Old Clothing from Consumer by Retailer
Recycled into Fiber
er um
ns Co
Sp k inn dy intt ing Ga e in rm ing g en & tin g
Retailer
cled Recy iber F into
Old C lo t h in colle cted g by Reta iler
Spinning kintting dyeing & Garmenting
Consumer
-u Re
sed
Retailer
Pre &P C o nsu ost Wa mer ste
Figure 1 & 2: Circular Economy
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Figure 1& 2: Circular Economy
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S T- E d i t o r i a l
take it forward. Noble fibers such as cashmere, mohair, and wool are natural and renewable resources with low impact on the environment. A number of key retailers take a stance against using animal-derived fibers and with Topshop, H&M and Marks & Spencer banning the use of mohair asos.com removing mohair, silk, and cashmere from production by 2019, things are set to change. The 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment asks brands to commit to the increased collection and recycling of garments, plus an increase in recycling Post-consumer textile fibers. So far 93 companies, representing 207 brands and 12% of the global fashion market have signed up.
Circular Economy
Recycling of clothing
Pre-consumer waste
Post-consumer waste
Re-Use of clothing
Recycling of clothing
We wish innovative solutions would come forward to improve the environmental and social footprint and the world in the future would be a better place to live.
H&M and HKRITA to set up recycling facilities in Hong Kong Desk Report The H&M Foundation and The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) have developed the opening of two textile recycling facilities which will put HKRITA’s hydrothermal method for recycling cotton and polyester blends to use. In the last year, within four-year( 2016-2020) long partnership between HKRITA and nonprofit H&M Foundation, HKRITA presented a technological breakthrough with a hydrothermal method for recycling cotton and polyester blends into new fibers. Blends are the most common, yet unrecyclable, type of textile in the world. Erik Bang, Innovation Lead at H&M Foundation, said in a statement that this is a significant step towards a new fashion industry that operates within the planetary boundaries. “As we scale up and make this technology freely available to the industry, we will reduce the
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speech, “After successfully developing revolutionary recycling technologies, we have devoted sustained effort to put them into practice.”
dependence on limited natural resources to dress a growing global population,” he said. H&M and HKRITA added that the purpose of the facilities is to invite fashion companies and their stakeholders to see, test and implement the technology. HKRITA will license the results widely to make it available to all and enable a bigger impact. Erik Bang also added, “Seeing is believing, and when customers see with their own eyes what valuable resource garments at the end of life can be, they can also believe in recycling.” Edwin Keh, Chief Executive Officer of HKRITA, said in his
He further added that their recycling systems represent the industry’s well-applied innovation efforts. These not only revitalize a decades-old major industry but also do it most sustainably for the benefit of their community and as a responsible global citizen. The facilities will be located at the Novetex Factory in Tai Po Industrial Estate, Hong Kong. The opening date has not been disclosed. The H&M Foundation is set to invest approximately 7 million US dollars in the project, over the next four years. The H&M Foundation allocates 50% of the total surplus to research on textile recycling and the other 50% to projects focusing on equality and inclusion of marginalized groups.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
from field to fashion
S p i n n i n g To d a y
Raw Materials - Cotton
Diversification of cotton sourcing is a crying need for spinning industry Imranul Imran In spite of being the 2nd largest RMG exporter country in the world and the upcoming denim king in the field of export, our primary textile sector i.e. spinning industries are totally depended on cotton import to manufacture the required amount of yarn in spinning industries. Bangladesh imports cotton from almost 42 countries around the world.
high time for us to diversify our cotton sourcing to overcome this situation. Why single dependency can ruin our emerging sector gradually In 2010, the Indian Government imposed restrictions on cotton export to Bangladesh that affected our textile value chain badly at that time. In recent
the production of home textiles, and another is for export-oriented RMG and supportive industries. Actually, export-oriented yarn quality has a far difference with local yarn. Local spinners consume Indian cotton for producing local yarns for several reasons. • Unavailability of several types of cotton like 29mm, 30mm, 31mm except for India. Sometimes they collect from other sources but cannot meet the quality yarn. • The price difference between Indian cotton and another sources cotton on the context of same quality. • Spinners are not so much concern about yarn quality. Shohel Rahamman, CEO of Bridge Asia Ltd opined that at present there is no alternative without Indian cotton for the production of local yarn due to the affordable price and lower lead time as well as availability.
Figure 1: Diversification of cotton sourcing is a crying need for the spinning industries.
Statistics show that Bangladesh imports cotton from India approximately 26% but the real scenario is not exactly known. According to a business report of Maasranga Television, approximately 60 percent of cotton is imported from India. This means that we are going to push this emerging sector towards single-source dependency. This type of dependency especially towards India on the context of cotton business between India and Bangladesh is not good for sustainable cotton business. It is
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years, the anti-dumping policy is imposed on Jute and jute products of Bangladesh. As a result, one of the main concerns of cotton-related industries is the unexpected implications from India to Bangladesh. This type of circumstances can create a catastrophic situation in our emerging Textile Industry.
It is a good news that some local entrepreneurs of Bangladesh are trying to replace Indian cotton with West African cotton. But, this is not on a large-scale production stage. According to Director of Infinia spinning Ltd, Mominul Motin Tushar, “For proper coordination and proper quality management, we can replace Indian cotton with West African cotton.’’
No alternative except Indian cotton for local yarn
Local yarn market is in a critical situation due to wastage export to Abroad
The spinning industry is producing yarn for two different market segments, one is the local yarn for
In many cases, the yarn which is produced from cotton wastages in the spinning industry known as
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Raw Materials - Cotton
S p i n n i n g To d a y
2% 7% 2% 2% 3% 2% 4%
Export oriented yarn market consume the huge amount of Indian cotton every year that pushes the spinning industry towards single-source dependency. The rate of consumption of Indian cotton is increasing at an alarming rate. Previous year cotton import statistics from India is given below:
26%
5% 7%
16%
7% 8%
9%
India
Uzbekistan
USA
Brazil
Cameroon
Benin Chad
Turkmenistan
australia
Burkina
Ibory
Tajikistan
others
coast
faso
Figure2: Country-wise cotton import shares; courtesy: USDA, Bangladesh Bank
Rotor yarn that is used in home textiles and denim production. Continual improvement of the denim industry, which is totally export-oriented, the demand for the local yarn is increasing. The whole denim market consumes local yarn that is generally used in home textile in huge amount and collected from the market at a higher price than the home textile consumer. As a result, local spinners are showing an unwillingness to sell their yarn to home textile manufacturers. This causes the crisis of local yarn in home textile and affects their production at a serious rate as well as they feel concerned about losing the competitive market of USA with India and Pakistan. According to a Daily star Report, Bangladesh Terry Towel and Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) proposed that the government should give permission for the duty-free import of 10 single, 16 single and 20 single open-end yarn (for towel production) through land or sea port from India or Pakistan, which would be 15-20 percent cheaper in price. It was also proposed that a five-year cash incentive scheme for exports to the US market that would increase the export basket of these products from USD 1.2 billion to USD 2 billion
Bangladesh Textile Today |
over the period. Putting in place measures to open up the market for importing raw material at most competitive rates and the implementation of policy measures that would not only protect the industry but also allow Bangladesh to effectively take advantage of the China-USA trade rift, where China’s textile exports to the US may soon face further duties. It is a prime time to cash in on the China-US trade war and put Bangladeshi home textile/terry towel export in an advantageous position over India/Pakistan. The possibility of source diversiďŹ cation of cotton in export-oriented yarn market Owing to lower lead time, comparatively better quality, availability and competitive price,
But, there are several possibilities in hand to go out from single dependency to diversification of cotton import source in Exportoriented yarn market to ensure sustainable cotton supply in our existing spinning industry. Various possibilities are given below: Bangladesh can enter the supply chain of the dierent cotton initiative Due to the worldwide environmental issue, sustainability and sustainable goal as well health and safety, different cotton initiatives are becoming popular day by day. They are keeping their great impact in global cotton supply chain continuously. Different global brands and retailers have acknowledged the works worldwide. They offer various privilege towards manufactures whether manufactures use the different initiative cotton for their product manufacturing. It is a good time for Bangladesh to join this new revolution and consume cotton from these sources and giving the privilege to attain
Cotton Imports (in millions of bales)
Total
8
Import from India
7 6 5
5.2 4.37
4.87
5.18
5.59
4
2.99
3 2 1
6.1
2.2 1.66 1.12
1.31
1.73
Figure 3: Cotton Import trend from India.
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S p i n n i n g To d a y
Raw Materials - Cotton
Selection of raw materials in coordination with price and desired quality from different sources is an important factor in the cotton industry. Mill owners should be concerned about the cotton quality of different sources and go out from using cotton from the same source in the whole Year. The Technical persons in the industry should think out of the box and use different sources cotton of the same quality in different time, and make them understand the owners about its importance for getting desired quality yarn as well as increasing profitability and resource optimization. Figure 4: Partners of ‘Better Cotton initiative’.Courtesy: BCI
Selection of cotton in an innovative way and better policy research optimization
According to Shohel Rahamman, “At the time of any cotton harvesting and initial storage, cotton quality is optimum and cotton quality is deteriorating with the time period. I give a suggestion towards spinners that you will collect any type of cotton from any source at the time of cotton harvesting.’’ He also added, ‘‘ Generally Indian cotton is harvested at the month of October. On the other hand, Australian cotton is harvested in the month of April. Everyone should use cotton at the time it’s harvesting. Generally, Mill owners are usually using the same type of cotton around the year and arise different quality issue. Mill owners should use same type of cotton from different sources in the different time by proper cotton
PRODUCTION IN THOUSAND METRIC TONS 7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000
B ra Pa zil ki st an A us tr al ia Tu rk U ey zb ek Tu is ta rk n m en is ta n B ur ki na
a St at es
in ni
te d
ch
a
0
U
Mohammad Mahamud Alam, Deputy General Manager, Noman spinning Mills Ltd opined that “In our Noman Group, we use different types of cotton initiatives cotton according to buyer requirement because RMG exporters generally get extra privilege for using different cotton initiatives cotton for manufacturing products from foreign buyers.’’ But, some uncertainties are existing in our country about the cotton quality of different cotton initiatives especially cotton made Africa and other initiatives. Many manufacturers seem that European and other western investors are trying to establish their business agenda in the name of sustainability and other issues.
Actually, the possibility of consumption of different cotton initiative cotton creates the opportunity of diversification of cotton sourcing in disguise for Bangladesh. If Bangladesh capitalizes this opportunity, our spinning industry will be more stable and hassle-free.
di
According to a cotton specialist, Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant at TRANSFORM opined that “There is no concern about the cotton quality of different cotton initiatives. Many manufacturers are using their cotton simultaneously.’’
According to Md. Majibur Rahman, General Manager, spinning Division of Envoy Textile Limited “We have several unpleasant experiences about the cotton quality of cotton made in Africa. At this moment, For the sake of buyer requirement, we use cotton made in Africa with cotton to attain our desired quality yarn as well as customer satisfaction.’’
In
higher price in their product as well as promoting the possibility of promoting sustainability that helps to diversify our RMG market. Different cotton initiatives are such as Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cotton Made in Africa (CIMA), Organic Cotton.
Figure 5: Worldwide cotton production (Country wise). Source: STATISTICA.
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Raw Materials - Cotton
S p i n n i n g To d a y
constraints and higher price create an unwillingness to import cotton from the USA.
Major export of U.S. cotton
3000000 2500000 2000000 1500000 1000000 500000
er s th
O
ia gl ad e Th sh ai la nd
B
an
S. Ko r
In di a
ke y In do ne si a M ex ic o Pa ki st an
Tu r
hi na C
V ie tn
am
0
2014/15
2015/16
2016/17
Figure 6: Major Export destinations of USA Cotton (USDA).
management and better policy as well as establish strong research and development wings where they test different sources of cotton in sample size’’ Potential sources for cotton sourcing around the world Besides India, Bangladesh is importing cotton from West Africa, East Africa, Brazil, CIS countries, The United States of America, Latin American countries and Australia. A proper balance should be considered for future cotton sourcing to reduce supply chain risk. Though it is not easy to collect cotton from diversified sources in the perspective of Bangladesh, an investment for this in cotton import and corresponding financial and technical management will be worthy enough to remain safe in a volatile world. Mohammad Mahbub Alam said, “Africa could be next big destination for cotton sourcing. In spite of the contamination problem, African cotton quality is increasing day by day. At present, we import approximately 20% of our total cotton import from Africa. If they can reduce lead time and ensure reliable financial technical structure in importing from African region that will provide a sustainable spinning sector in Bangladesh.” Shohel Rahamman, CEO of Bridge Asia Ltd, said that most of the mill
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owners are feeling the interest to buy afloat cotton from West Africa and East Africa because it takes 10-15 days to rush our Chittagong port. This procedure is very cost effective and hassle-free buying procedure rather than direct shipment from the African region, actually, shipment of cotton from Africa takes above 2 months or more to rush Chittagong port due to some unavoidable system loss. As a result, afloat cotton takes a great impact to consume a higher amount of African cotton every year.’’ The possibility of increasing US cotton consumption due to the battle of the commercial war One of the biggest cotton producer’s countries of the world, USA is trying hard and soul to find out any alternative market due to the embargo on China. Recently, Cotton Council of USA and big merchants of Cotton USA reveal that they see Bangladesh as potential alternative market and trying to increase their export in Bangladesh at 10 percent rate in every year to sustain their cotton business around the world. Cotton Council of USA addressed our government for the amendment of cotton fumigation rule, the capacity utilization and increasing the capacity of Chittagong port that causes for higher lead time for importing USA cotton. Actually, these
If Bangladesh resolves this issue, US cotton is going to get a level playing field in Cotton Business. Moreover, US cotton is in a critical condition to find out their potential alternative market. At this moment, If Bangladesh is successful to consume a higher amount of US cotton by proper price fixation, will create the huge possibility of product diversification in RMG industry and minimize the risk in the field of cotton business as well as to go out from single source dependency. Shahriar Ahmed is a dynamic manufacturer whose company, Apex Spinning and Knitting Mills Limited, does weaving, all over printing, cut and sew, placement prints and make stitching. He had problems with needle breakage and shade runs…until he was introduced to COTTON USA. Now, this valued partnership allows him to forge a long-term partnership deals with premium brands and retailers. According to Shohel Rahamman opined that Pricing of US cotton is a major concern for Bangladeshi Importers. Manufacturers of Bangladesh use US cotton in most cases for the production of white yarn where higher quality cotton is required. They can’t increase their customer at a satisfactory level in Bangladesh. Without price reduction, they cannot grab the Bangladeshi market in this competitive stage. Conclusion Proper coordination of all measures taken by the top to bottom stakeholders of cotton business in Bangladesh, strong and contemporary legislation Act as well as strong policy research and capacity improvement in Research and development and creation of required technical persons can gift us a sustainable spinning industry by diversification of cotton import at the supreme level.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
S p i n n i n g To d a y
Green technologies can ensure green processing of cotton Microplastics and effluent issues have heightened the need for green processing of textiles. Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Discharge of textile mill effluents and disposal of single-use textiles such as hygiene pads are watched very carefully by regulatory bodies. Therefore, the textile industry has been working to find costeffective solutions to tackle these environmental issues to become green. Recently, a collaborative research between scientists from Kerala, the southwestern state of India, and Florida has utilized supercritical carbon dioxide as a carrier to size and resize cotton. They have identified supercritical carbon dioxide attractive chemistries such as sucrose octaacetate, glucose pentaacetate and polyethylene glycol that can be applied to textiles via supercritical carbon dioxide at a pressure of about 90 bars, making the process cost-effective. The researchers claim the process is cost-effective as it avoids other costlier functional chemistries and is environmentally friendly. Sucrose octaacetate in supercritical carbon dioxide system provided good results for cotton and polyester and the chemical is inexpensive as it is an agricultural product. Green technologies such as supercritical fluids and plasma have been getting serious attention these days. “Typically, wet-chemical treatments used to create surface hydrophilicity to woven and nonwoven textile materials can damage the polymer matrix and produce, as a byproduct, large volumes of hazardous waste effluents. Atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) technology is an eco-friendly alternative for obtaining similar or better results with these materials, compared to wet chemical treatments. It is also commercially recognized that the APP process can Figure: Green processing of cotton also significantly will help to find cost-effective reduce dye solutions to tackle environmental consumption due issues. to enhanced dyne uptake and wicking,” stated Rory A. Wolf, Business Unit Manager, ITW Pillar Technologies. Consumers prefer sustainable processes and clothing. Stating a survey, Melissa Bastos of Carybased Cotton Incorporated said, “63% of consumers globally put time and effort into finding sustainable clothing.”
S p i n n i n g To d a y
S p i n n i n g To d a y
Luckyfield Yichang’s success story with Rieter cards Luckyfield Yichang, a customer company of Rieter, has been using four generations of Rieter cards from C 4, C 51, and C 60 to C 70. And they recognize card C 70 as their key to success for constant high-quality ring yarn Desk Report Luckyfield Yichang, a customer company of Rieter, was able to boost its production significantly with the latest generation of cards C 70, said a press release. Luckyfield Yichang is located in Yichang City, Hubei Province, China. The company is very well known in its province as the leading producer of combed cotton ring spun yarn with a high and constant quality (5% USTER Statistic level). Luckyfield operates 80,000 ring spindles. All fiber and spinning preparation machines are from Rieter. Over the years, the customer has invested in four generations of Rieter cards, which are all in production. The challenge: High-quality yarn at a high production level
Figure: Cards C 70, the key to high-quality ring yarn.
required production increased continuously. So it was important for the customer to produce the same high quality with every new card generation at a higher production level. The solution: The card C 70
For many years, Luckyfield has utilized Rieter C 4, C 51 and C 60 cards. These cards meet the full expectations of the customer in terms of economic production and quality. Based on the excellent experience with those previous Rieter card models, Luckyfield decided in 2012 to purchase four sets of C 70 cards with the Integrated Grinding System IGS (IGS classic and IGS top). C 70 cards with an IGS system secure the quality at an excellent level Data Comparisons: Combed Cotton, Ne 40.5% and require little USTER STATISTICS maintenance. The Card No. Production Sliver Delivery new C 70 cards (kg/h) count speed produce 90 kg/h of (g/m) (m/min) sliver at the same C4 8 40 4.6 145 quality level as the C 51 21 50 4.9 170 C 60 card at 75 kg/h, the C 51 at 50 C 60 6 75 6.5 192 kg/h and C 4 at 40 C 70 4 90 6.5 231 kg/h.
For Luckyfield as a high quality combed cotton yarn spinner, it is important to set the quality parameters at the beginning of the spinning process. In order to achieve this, already at an early stage, Luckyfield decided to use Rieter cards to lay the foundation for the yarn quality. Luckyfield’s customers appreciate the high quality of the yarn. Along with an expanding customer base, the
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The customer benefits: Increased production at minimal maintenance costs Every new generation of Rieter cards realized a significant increase in production (see table, fig. 1). On the same machine space, the silver production was doubled. This led to lower investment in the building. With the IGS system on the C 70 card, the customer is able to produce up to 3,800 tons of sliver with one set of wires and flats before they need replacing. Since the commissioning of the C 70 in 2012, the customer exchanged the wires and flats only once. This is far above the industry standard of around 1,000 tons per set of wires. The savings are tremendous as regards the wire maintenance and low downtime for the wire. “We are a loyal partner of Rieter. We now have four generations of card from C 4, C 51, C 60 to C 70 in use. Rieter cards are the best in the world. We will keep on buying Rieter cards when we have a new project,” the release said quoting Shengwu Yi, Mill Manager of Luckyfield Yichan, a customer of Rieter cards.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Spinning
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Spinning sector is now being operated at loss…
Modern technology and efficient manpower can revitalize the spinning sector of Bangladesh.
Abu Hasan Mahmud Director (Operation), Amber Cotton Mills Ltd. The resiliency of the spinning industry directly dominates the other forward industries utterly. In the last few years, total industry environment has changed dramatically due to some unavoidable issues like utility problem, cotton price increase, workers wage hike etc. All the circumstances of Bangladesh spinning industry came out in a recent discussion between Factory Tales Research Team of Textile Today and Abu Hasan Mahmud, Director (Operation), Amber Cotton Mills Ltd., some important conversation revealed here for the readers.
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Textile Today: What is the present scenario of Bangladesh spinning sector? Abu Hasan Mahmud: To meet the export target ‘USD 50 billion by 2021 set by RMG leaders, the spinning sector has the potentiality to play a leading role for bridging the gap in value contribution. As much as it supplies the yarn to make fabrics for RMG, it can gain the maximum price of the profit. According to Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), there are 425 spinning yarn-manufacturing mills in Bangladesh. Value addition in knit and woven RMG are over
70% and 35% respectively. Around 90% yarn demand for knit RMG and 35-40% yarn demand for woven RMG are met by Primary Textile Sector (PTS). Local fabric demand and the yarn demand for handloom are also met by PTS. Backward and Forward linkage industries provide employment for more than 5 million people where 80% are female. According to the report of USDA (November 2017), yarn and fabric consumptions in Bangladesh is expected to rise to 1.13 MMT and 7.4 billion meters on strong international demand for clothing due to population
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
01
Present Situation of
B an g l ad e s h
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Spinning sector at a glance.
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425 spinning yarn manfacturing mills.
Around 90% yarn demand for knit RMG are met by Primary Textile Sector (PTS).
Around 35-40% yarn demand for woven RMG are met by PTS.
Value addition in knit and woven RMG are over 70% and 35% respectively
growth, urbanization, and disposable income growth. Demand for quality cloth also increases in domestic markets as wages and living standards rise. The retail market size of clothing in Bangladesh is nearly $8 billion a year, according to industry insiders. Albeit having greater opportunity to ourish considering the strong demand, the spinning sector at present is undergoing through various obstacles and situations, which are getting more crucial day by day. The price of raw cotton is increasing drastically and very volatile as usual. We do not have any control over it and cannot make a sustainable stock what China, India and other countries do. The price is around 20% higher comparing to the corresponding month of last year. Price of electricity, wages, and transportation costs have also increased concurrently whereas the yarn prices are the same as before. Hence, the spinning sector is now at a breakeven point or often being operated at a loss. Textile Today: Government is importing LNG and announced for yet another round of gas price increase. How will it affect your business and how will you manage the additional cost? Abu Hasan Mahmud: The price of gas may go up in captive power and industrial sector, which is like to pour water on a drowned mouse. Any increase in prices of gas will deal a blow and have a negative effect, forcing front-end industries to suffer further. Production costs will be higher than before. To mitigate the additional cost we need to increase productivity by means of increasing unit production and increasing output realization as well which can be possible if the other factors like availability of raw materials, manpower, financial facilities, and even electricity are available. Besides, we need to pay concentration on increasing
Visit us at ITMA ASIA 2018 October 15 -19 Hall H1 / Booth D01
Spinning
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Spinning
the efficiency of both man and machinery. Reduction of electricity consumption has important environmental and economic benefits, which can be achieved by replacing old machines with new machines equipped with advanced technology where we get more output by consuming less electricity. Setting automation is another way of reducing cost. Moreover, there are value-added products for earning more premiums.
automate elements of the RMG industry, then that would be a very positive outcome. Productivityenhancing technology, after all, is a crucial pillar of social and economic progress. Hence, the RMG industry needs to increase their overall efficiency. As it is not yet fully able to produce high value-added goods, it needs to concentrate on it, which can mitigate the excess production cost by earning more value.
Textile Today: How will RMG makers cope up with the current wage hike?
Finally, RMG millers must emphasize on escalating its export to the emerging markets in Asia, Africa, and America. As much as it expands its market, it can have a remarkable success.
Abu Hasan Mahmud: The government of Bangladesh has raised the minimum wage of RMG workers to Tk 8,000 that is 51 percent higher than the current minimum wage Tk 5,300. At this stage when RMG is struggling hard to meet their export target by competing with the other countries who are playing well for their highly value-added goods, the wages hike can be very crucial to sustain. On the other hand, if minimum wage hikes really do spur the creation and adoption of high-quality new equipment to
Textile Today: What are the initiatives Amber Cotton Mills Ltd has taking for a sustainable business? Abu Hasan Mahmud: Amber is one of the prominent local conglomerates having an integrated textile unit of 3 Ring Spinning mills, 2 Open-end spinning mills, and 2 Denim mills. We strongly believe the proverb
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“First reach your target in your mind, then reaching your target, in reality, will just be a formality.” As we cannot cut down the fixed cost and in some cases, variable costs are also unavoidable, we are going for productivity-enhancing technology by replacing age-old machinery phase by phase, which enables us to achieve more output with less input. We are incessantly striving to reach our targeted goal. At present, commissioning of compact yarn attachment is going to dig up more unit output with improved quality. Undoubtedly, our textile sector needs to concentrate on more value-added products and we are no exception to that. We are producing slub, ciro, core-pun, multi-count, multi-twist and blended yarns like Viscose, Modal etc. Considering the market demand for quality and value-added products, we have planned for another fully automated new project where efficient use of power (both electricity and manpower) will be ensured.
Graf to share wide range of solutions at ITMA ASIA Graf + Cie AG, a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, will present its wide portfolio of spinning and fiber preparation process solutions at ITMA ASIA 2018. Desk Report Graf + Cie AG, the world’s leading supplier of clothing and comb in the field of carding-, combing- and nonwoven-processes, will present its wide portfolio of solutions at ITMA ASIA which will be held in Shanghai from October 15 to 19, 2018 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre. The company Graf is a complete system provider, which offers a comprehensive package from the product and technical advice through to service and service equipment. This full range of products and services are designed to deliver maximum value to customers. Graf also supports its customers by
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trade fair. With 35 or 40 teeth respectively, NEP values can be improved by up to 30%.
Figure: GRAF_Fixpro_C30_ Imagebild_1. developing custom-made solutions for all their application needs. Ri-Q-Comb flex, the innovative circular comb series with adjustable height for up to 20% lower imperfections. The new top combs FIXPRO C35 and C40 will be presented for the first time at an international
The EasyTop System of flat clothing stands for optimal settings of the carding gap and reduces the loss of good fiber. In addition, the handling of flat clothing replacement is much easier and can be done without special equipment. The reputable product line of flexible flat clothing’s, well-known by the brand names resist-O-top or InLine-X-Top, stand for better quality in combination with higher lifetime compared to competitorproducts in the short to medium staple range.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Textile Today Question of the Month All the textile and apparel industry has ‘Compliance Department’. In recent times Bangladesh has done a revolution in terms of compliance and eventually, the industry has become one of the safest textile and apparel industry in the world. But at the same time, the factories are suffering for profitability crisis. The transformation achieved in social and building safety and the improvements done in the environment is not being well reflected in the economics of the companies. To achieve sustainability holistically, efforts should be taken in all three pillars Economic, Social and Environmental of ‘Sustainability’.
Do you think transforming the existing ‘Compliance Departments’ into ‘Sustainability Departments’ is the way to implement sustainability in the textile and apparel industry? How this transformation could be done?
Kazy Mohammad Iqbal Hossain South Asia Regional Sustainability Manager Lindex HK Ltd., Bangladesh Liaison Office.
Compliance is something, which requires money from a company but may not give anything in return, the reason is simple as it’s all about the legal requirements to set up an industry. Everybody has to keep in mind, it is not enough to just meet the basic legal requirements, more needs to be done to make the organization popular with skilled workers. Once, the factory will be known as one of the safest and most reliable workplace in the market, then efficiencies of the employee, workers, and stakeholder will be increased which in turn will give better outcome and the factory will realize profitability. Transforming compliance to Sustainability will increase the profitability for sure. However, the scope of work for the sustainability team should not be the same as of compliance department, it has to come out of the box. The ideal scope of work for Sustainability team would start from beyond compliance. So, to me, the Sustainability team of a factory will only get enough things to do once all the compliance issues are solved. And of course, the skill set of the professional is required, who can work on Energy, water, chemical efficiencies as well as building the culture of cost saving in all possible ways like print both sides of the paper. And to get a most desirable result, the Sustainability Team need to work hand in hand with the production department. A clear communication with all concern department of the factory as well as with the stakeholders will ensure efficiencies, transparency, and accountability, which will increase the profitability.
Ayesha Shefa, Director of Sustainability, Simco Spinning and Textiles Ltd. If the compliance departments become more manageable, sustainability will more likely be achievable. If a company wishes to be sustainable they usually benefit in many ways- for instance, better public perception and enhanced cost savings- as toxic substances and hazardous waste are removed from manufacturing processes. It is a goal worth working for because not only companies will benefit themselves but also the three pillars “Economics, Social and the Environment will be benefitted.” Companies can achieve this by taking the necessary steps depending on which sector they are in. Making and encouraging to make ECO-FRIENDLY choices is the first step towards sustainability.
Sustainability is one of the major pillars and most of the factories, brands, and suppliers are working on it. As a manufacturer definitely compliance department will transform into the sustainable department, we trying to save our inventory cost to sustain, because day-by-day production cost is increasing but the price is decreasing. Now, Bangladesh has the highest number of green factories in the world. More skilled set of professionals are required, who can work on Energy, water, chemical efficiencies as well as building the culture of cost saving for sustainable business. Faiaz Rahman, Director, Urmi Group
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
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“
Textile Today Question of the Month
Sabina Yasmin Shurovi Manager, Sustainable Development LBL Bangladesh Ltd.
Yes, it is going on the perfect way. A lot of factories/textile are implementing LEED certification, most of the factories/textiles are now implementing modern technology in regards of energy saving, water recycling method, heat transferring, transform the chemical ETP to biological ETP. In the production history, organic textile production growth in Bangladesh is now 32% from the conventional cotton.
Transforming sustainable business practices means to create strategies that preserve the longterm viability of People, Plant, and Profit, the proverbial triple bottom
line. Sustainability requires that we see the world as an integrated system that connects businesses to society and the environment through both space and time. Pollution in one part of the world affects others thousands of miles away. Socially responsible corporate strategies impact communities not only today but also leave lasting impressions for generations to come. If the compliance department can make sure of the above activities easily can transform its pattern to sustainability. Compliance department’s Head, responsible Compliance officer, Welfare officer, Safety officer they all are can play roles as follows. They can Implement changes and
“
Maher Abdullah Al CEO, Fakir Fashion Ltd.
The question of fair price and sustainable business model is being heard among the RMG community which is sounding better as first step towards the solution. Some raised the question, when we are going to get a better price as we have completed the 100 % remediation in our factories in terms of structural, fire and other safety scopes among other social compliance (need to do much more here yet within scopes). It is time to realize all these safety measures and so-called compliance factors
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have nothing to do with fair price or profitability. Let’s think! then another point of view, without a safe building, happy workers and proper working condition - how one can we even sustain production? But to achieve a better profitability, one has to revisit own business units irrespective of the production facility to the corporate office, upgrade the basic things and look for ‘excellence’ to move forward. Again, ‘innovation’ is the key here to excel, and to increase profitability.
communicate to the employee effectively. They can make sure creating strategies to make the workplace greener. They can conduct effective training gradually to all factories/textiles employees on sustainability and transfer of knowledge. They should attend national/ international seminars on Sustainability to provide proper roles and responsibilities and its authority of implementation. Compliance department’s responsible persons can measure the factories/textile’s sustainability performance. They can take control of the development, implementation, promotion, and monitoring of environmental strategies within a factory/ textile. They can manage the budget, liaising with marketing departments to promote a sustainability strategy, and communicating plans. Since the compliance department has the sufficient knowledge and skills, so no separate department is needed to be in.
By making green buildings, green factories and ensuring all the safety measures we had surely accomplished a great job but is this bringing any benefits in terms of prices from customers yet? On the other hand, customers are facing a yet bigger challenge to stay in business too. It is time to start a sustainable joint venture or bigger co-operation among local suppliers, all stakeholders need to find a sustainable business model by cutting all unnecessary fats. We do not have to go far to learn this - let’s just watch how Amazon has chopped the unwanted wings and ensured the delivery to the door stops of the Clients right from the machine. For the end consumers, it is ‘ Oven fresh - healthy products’. They did not check the factory yet - green or not but checked the price tags and loved the speed!
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
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K n i t t i n g To d a y
Seamless technology reduces 40% production time of Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd. Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd. brings seamless technology in Bangladesh for the first time. The State-of-the-art technology will help Bangladesh to cater different market segments in active wear. FT Research Team Bangladeshi knitting industry is currently going through major technology shift from low valueadded shirt and sweaters to high value-added seamless activewear. The Seamless technology is an innovative concept in producing clothing almost free of seams. The technology introduced almost 30 years ago in Europe. However, Bangladesh experienced the seamless technology in 2015 via Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd. (FTML) a sister concern of Urmi Group who brings the technology to Bangladesh. In 2015, the company started a pilot project with five Santoni machines and now 40 modern seamless machines are in production. Seamless garmenting
Figure 2: Santoni seamless machines at FTML.
is highly technical and innovative job, it needs technically sound and creative design and development team. When the company was planning to adopt the technology, the machine manufacturers thought that Bangladesh might not be ready to adopt it. However, the futuristic company showed confidence to step into the new era.
Figure 1: high value-added seamless activewear in FTML.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Leading sports and fashion brands across the world know all too well that the demand for seamless activewear is rising rapidly.
Sports brands like Adidas, Puma, Nike, Reebok, and Decathlon are some big players, also other fashion brands are leaning towards it. “Initially the response from the buyers were poor, customers couldn’t get confidence that such high-tech production can be done in Bagladesh, but over the past three years we demonstrated our ability,” Faiaz Rahman, Director of Urmi Group said to Textile Today FT Research Team. In the beginning, the company developed designs for multiple customers and closed their first order from NEXT. PUMA boosted up the company with plenty of orders and they became the main buyer. Other brands like Celio, M&S and Target are also showing great interest. Currently, it is producing seamless t-shirts, underwear and sports bra. With current capacity and order, they are producing 50,000 pieces of garments every month.
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Although the technology eliminates the fabrication process and reduces production time to almost 40%, but the machines are very expensive. The two major tasks of this process are product design and machine operation. Also, machine operation and maintenance is very complex. The company assigned two foreign specialists to look after the issue. “We are working with Santoni to train our people, we sent four of our people abroad for training. Now Santoni technical team and foreign experts are providing training to our local designers and machine operator/technicians,” said Faiaz Rahman. He also expressed, “Generally one operator should operate five machines but our people still did not reach that level of technical expertise and now one operator is handling only two machines which should be improved.”
R e t a i l e r s To d a y
shape and measurement of the product. Currently, our product rejection rate is high but we are moving in the right direction to bring that within a competitive range,” Faiaz Rahman added. Today’s consumer wants something beyond requirement-based garments and they prefer activewear with variation in design and characteristics. Figure 3: Faiaz Rahman, Director, Urmi Group Seamless apparel is beautiful and offers comfort and As it is a new technology for support that is superior to cut Bangladesh, technical knowand sew garments. There is an how is a big challenge for the enormous possibility and scope entrepreneurs. The technology for Bangladesh to adopt the adaptation and the learning curve seamless technology to penetrate is a lengthy process. the activewear market with value“Raw materials and yarn selection added product. Setting up this requires more technical expertise. industry will help Bangladesh to In dyeing and finishing stage, even move up in the new value chain. a little deviation could affect the
‘Gina Tricot’ will increase imports from Bangladesh to 1 billion dollar Swedish fashion company Gina Tricot launches its sourcing office in Bangladesh and it has declared to increase its imports from Bangladesh to one billion dollars by 2019. Desk Report One of the biggest Swedish fashion company Gina Tricot has launched their sourcing office in Dhaka on 6 September at Banani in the capital. The Swedish company has more than 2000 employees worldwide. “Bangladeshi manufacturers should go diversify products and also need more sustainable product for sustainable business,” said Charlotta Schlyter, Swedish Ambassador to Bangladesh, at the launching ceremony. “Our aim is to increase and develop business. We will increase imports from Bangladesh to one billion dollars by 2019,” said Magnus Månsson, CEO, Gina Tricot. “Last ten years we have been
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Figure: Swedish ambassador, brands representative, factories owners were present at the launching ceremony.
staying in Bangladesh market. More than nine factories are working with us who make all kinds of women items for us,” said, Ahasan Mahmood, Country Manager, Gina Tricot.
We are so proud of our new office and we hope this will create a positive impact on both our factories and for our business, added Ahasan Mahmood.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
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Knitting
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Sinha Knitting is moving towards automation
For several reasons, including productivity increase and fast fashion trends, automation is becoming a crying need in the garments manufacturing process. Following this latest trends, Sinha Knitting Ltd is adopting automation in their production process. FT Research Team Sinha Knitting Limited, a sister concern of Opex and Sinha Group, has taken a challenging decision of adopting automation. The company is going to install 54 new state-of-the-art machineries that will allow producing 30 tons of finer quality fabric per day. The knitting division is going for a major technology transformation very soon to cater to the growing demand of the textile industry. As its machinery were installed back in 90’s and updated time to time, but still a large portion of the machines remain semi-automated.
and they are using Fong’s high temperature and high-pressure fabric dyeing machine. Additional four machines are going to be added in dyeing and finishing section that will increase the dyeing and finishing capacity to 20 tons per day.
“For knitting garments production, now they have Figure 2: Sinha Knitting Ltd going for significant 24 lines, in November of this automation within next few months. year, it will be 32 lines and group is the country’s largest within one year, total lines will be integrated company. They have 60,” he added. spinning, weaving, knitting, yarn Levis and Levis Hybrid is their dyeing, fabric dyeing, main buyer, in addition, they are washing, and sewing also manufacturing garments for line. Being a fully VF Asia, Crocodile, Tola Vintage compliant factory and Norwest. The environment they accomplished is always a big concern for Sinha the majority of the Knitting, it has central biological ETP. parameters set by the In Sinha Knitting Ltd, workers Accord and Alliance. enjoy obligatory 5% compensation Shah Alam Dalim, who increment as per company rule and has 25 years combined service benefit after their retirement. experience in the textile Figure 1: Opex and Sinha using state-of-the-art machinery industry, for fabric dyeing. said, “Sinha “We are reinvesting on this Knitting Limited started plant to be fully automated. We its journey as the have already started working subsidiary of the group. with suppliers and technical The project is very much supporters,” emphasized Md. Shah quality concern and Alam Dalim, Director of Knitting & at present, the knitting Dyeing, said Textile Today. capacity is 12 tons per day.” Opex and Sinha Group started Currently, the dyeing its journey in 1996 at Kanchpur, unit capacity is 14 tons Dhaka. Opex and Sinha Textile
Figure 3: Md. Shah Alam Dalim, Director of Knitting & Dyeing.
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
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Sweater exports continue to rise Staff Correspondent Sweater, a sub-sector of the apparel sector, has seen a sharp growth in the last fiscal year, thanks to prolonged winter in the western world. According to latest data of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in the fiscal year 2017-18, Bangladesh earned $3.67 billion, which is 9.32% higher compared to the $3.36 billion it earned in FY16-17.
sweater manufacturers made a huge investment to upgrade machinery to move for automation. As a result, Bangladesh’s sweater production capacity, as well as workers’ productivity, have increased,” Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Vice President Mohammed Nasir said the Textile Today.
Sweater has contributed 11.98% to overall readymade garment exports of $30.62 billion. In the Fiscal Year 2017-18, Bangladesh’s export earnings from the apparel sector have seen an 8.76%
On top of that, the winter season in the western countries has expanded due to global climate change. It has increased demands of winter clothing products. So, it brings blessing to Bangladeshi
opportunity for Bangladesh that has quality products at a reasonable price, Salam said, also a Former President of BGMEA. In reaping the benefits of China, AB Mirza Azizul Islam, a trade analyst and economist, asked the manufacturers to move for diversification of products and making new investment on product development. He also urged the government to take measures in exploring new markets. On the other hand, manufacturers have to identify the new products, which are being left by the Chinese manufacturers. Barriers to grow
2.93
2013-14
3.36
3.18
2.82
2014-15
2015-16
2016-17
Despite having a sound growth, there is more room to grow. However, there are also challenges, which is hindering the prospects of the emerging sub-sector.
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Exports earnings from sweater even could be more, if there are no barriers such as port congestion, delayed delivery and transportation hindrance,” Target Group Managing Director, Azharul Islam said the Textile Today.
2017-18
Sweater exports earnings in $ billion
Figure 1: Sweater exports earnings in $ billion for FY 2017-18. Source: EPB
growth to 30.61 billion. While, the country’s total, exports earnings rose to $36.66 billion in the same period. Bangladesh, the second largest exporter of clothing products, has a huge opportunity in increasing exports of sweater products, as it is upgrading technology. While the global demand is increasing due to expanded winter in the Western world. On top of that, Bangladesh offers quality products at an affordable price. These have pushed the export earnings from the sector up. Technological upgradation helps to grow “In the recent years, Bangladeshi
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sweater manufacturers, said Nasir. Meanwhile, China’s business relocation and rise in wages have brought more work orders in Bangladesh. “If you look into the recent export trend of clothing products of China, it is losing its market share in the global markets. Since the workers’ wages in China is increasing, manufacturers are shifting their businesses to include higher-end products, and buyers are searching for new sourcing destinations,” Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy said Textile Today. So, the business shifting from China has created an enormous
Talking to the sector people opined that as a sub-sector of RMG, sweater industry can contribute over $8 billion to meet Bangladesh’s export target of $50 billion by 2021, said Islam. He urged Bangladesh government to increase port capacity to reduce lead-time. “Bangladesh has good quality product at a reasonable price. But there is a shortage of raw materials to produce high-end goods, technical expertise,” said Md Moshiul Azam Shajal, Managing Director of Posmi Sweaters. To remove these barriers, we need a stable and long-term policy to ensure the business-friendly atmosphere in the country, he added.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09
Automation
‘Automation is the crying need for apparel industry…’ Customer choices are changing rapidly, they want value-added product and in this regard, automation can offer value addition in garment products. H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager, Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd. Bangladesh RMG industry, the second largest ready-made garment exporter in the world, has scrambled many challenges and still it is overcoming many hard situations. Now the industry is moving forward with the latest technology. Many apparel millers are using the latest technology for better productivity to cope up with fast fashion trends. Machinery companies also continuously working on bringing new featured machinery. H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager, Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd, is one of the most wellknown professionals, working as a technology provider for more than a decade in the apparel industry.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Recently he shared his views on apparel trends, technology, and market in a recent conversation with Textile Today. Textile Today: How do you see the transformation of the Bangladesh textile industry in terms of Garments trends and technology? H N Ashiqur Rahman: Thanks for your thoughtful question. You know the entire textile industry is mainly sewing based. Our factory owners give capital investment for ends product operation process which means sewing and finishing section. So, industry transformation depends on how sewing technology is shifting. I have been serving in
Volume 11, Issue 09
this industry for the last 15 years. Once upon a time, I saw sewing machine was operated by button, extra sewing thread was cut manually by helper and oil leaking from machines. At present, the technology is shifting rapidly. Now we are using computerized sewing machine, auto trimming system, direct drive technology, and digital flexibility feeding system. The industrial sewing machine has changed the way of whole clothing industry operation. It has increased the speed of production, which is unmatched with the speed of hands. Because of the technological revolution, now we have bargaining capacity to achieve a higher price in case of
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Automation
K n i t w e a r To d a y
high-quality product. Textile Today: China is the giant player in the textile manufacturing industry worldwide, though they are closing their basic garments manufacturing industries and Bangladesh is trying to grab that market. So, how do you see the prospects of Bangladesh textile and apparel market in future? Ashiqur Rahman: Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is continuously growing and looking for new opportunities. In JulyAugust 2018, our export growth increases more than 10%. In the last five years our factories went through massive changes and now maximum factory introduces themselves as a compliant factory. Seven out of ten green factories of all over the world are in Bangladesh. In 2017-18, export earnings from the RMG sector is USD 30.16 billion, posting a 9% growth in the last fiscal year. I hope after five years; our industry growth will be double. Because last few years buyers were slow to place an order due to ongoing safety inspections in the apparel sector. But now they are changing their mindset as the safety inspection has almost come to an end showing significant progress and that restored buyer’s confidence to place more orders here. In addition, Bangladesh will be the next popular hotspot of apparel sourcing after China. Textile Today: What is the recent innovation of industrial sewing machine and how does it helps the industry to increase quality and productivity? H N Ashiqur Rahman: Industrial sewing machines are updating day by day. Many companies are adding new features to increase productivity. For example, they are using direct drive technology, it reduces the two-thirds portion of total energy while the needle is running. In past, there was no such energy efficient technology. Another addition is auto-trimming technology, using this technology
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Figure 2: A Brother sewing machine in operation.
we can cut up to 3mm or less as per as buyer requirements. It is a new innovation for the industrial sewing machine. I can also add, in the past, the rate of needle breakage was higher but the new innovation of technology reduces needle breakage percentage and also increases the rate of production. Textile Today: Day by day, the whole supply chain is getting compact and technology replacing the workforce. Do you think automation is a threat for garments workers? H N Ashiqur Rahman: I think automation creates an opportunity to expand our garments industry in terms of productivity and value-addition. It’s true that, naturally human involvement will decrease in cases of automation but our worker’s efficiency will grow. Workers salary also will be increased. Customer choice is changing rapidly, they want the value-added product. Automation can offer valueaddition in garments product for the international market. Brothers understand this trend and we have already started to supply IMB automation for the industry. In this situation, automation is the crying need for the industry to sustain the business. Textile Today: What is the latest
addition ‘Brother’ offering to the apparel industry? H N Ashiqur Rahman: Brother is a 110 years old world-renowned sewing machine manufacturing company having worldwide operation origin from Japan. It is continuously doing R&D to introduce new solutions for the textile and apparel industry. In the apparel industry, what ‘Brother’ do is always an example for others. Recently Brother introduces a new single needle machine called S-7250A with new technology DFF (FigiFlex Feed). This DFF system is the latest solution for our apparel industry. This technology offers 3mm remaining thread after sewing. Needle breakage is an acute problem for the sewing machine, it hampers productivity hugely. But DFF technology reduces the possibility of needle breakage nearly 50% compared to previous technology. This machine is integrated with complete sealed aluminum oil tank, which will reduce oil stain problem and unnecessary expenses of the factory. The most beneficial feature ‘puckering free sewing quality’ is possible with this machine because of the adaptation of DFF technology as this machine can change the feed motion depending on sewing material and process.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 09