Textile Today | June 2018

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 11 |

Issue 06 |

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 June 2018 www.textiletoday.com.bd

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10 reasons why Bangladesh will not be able to achieve $50 billion apparel export by 2021

RMG sector needs long-term consistent policy measures to grow further

Factors affecting textile dyestuffs market

Traditional lungi business expanding fast in local and global arena

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

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Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Sub Editor Akhi Akter Sanjoy Kumar Saha Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Rakibul Islam Al Takbir Mahim Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 04th July 2018 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. Š All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 11, Issue 06 (June 2018) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 11 |

Issue 06 |

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 June 2018 www.textiletoday.com.bd

BDT 150, USD 10

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On the Cover

10 reasons why Bangladesh will not be able to achieve $50 billion apparel export by 2021

Factors affecting textile dyestuffs market

Traditional lungi business expanding fast in local and global arena

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Editorial

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Driving business with knowledge

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RMG sector needs long-term consistent policy measures to grow further

June’ 18 |

Market Analysis

Issue 06

Factory Tales Editorial

10 reasons why Bangladesh will not be able to achieve...

Cover Story

Volume 11 |

28-30

Factors affecting textile dyestuffs market

43

Advantages of designing at manufacturer...

48

Urmi Group and IDLC sign agreement

48

STWI awards four factories for their best practice on.....

45-46

Design and process innovations in Sterling Laundry Ltd.

84

A success story of Rieter with Nitin Spinners Ltd.

Sustainability TodayCircular Fashion

15-16

RMG sector needs long-term consistent policy measures to....

Tradiitonal Textiles

32-33

CYCLO recycled yarn from SIMCO to contribute...

Jute Today

18-20

Traditional lungi business expanding fast in local and global arena

31

India has the potential to produce quality jute said Smriti Irani

Silk Today

Top Story

22-23

Digital marketing as an opportunity to expand textile and apparel business

Cover Plus

34-35

Story of reviving Bangladesh silk industry

Cotton Today 35

31

30

29.5 25.5

27

54

28.5

25

One year of Multifabs’ boiler explosion

20 15

24-26

Automation generates more job opportunities in Asia than they defunct

In Focus

27

Invest in ‘Human Capital’ for making sure ....

10

Factory Tales - Exclusive Interview

5 0

38-39

India looking for building ‘cotton brand’

Manufaturing with Pride

49-51

Export Today

30 8

Apparel exports rises 9.77 percent in first 11 months of current FY

52

‘Made in Bangladesh’ tag in the FIFA World Cup kits

There is no option other than product diversification and.....

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Textile Today and

‘Sustainability’ Being a Bangladesh based global media; Textile Today has been catalyzing the textile and apparel industry to be more knowledge driven. Recently ‘Textile Today’ has been celebrating 10 years of its publication and has declared below mission with in their theme ‘Driving Business with Knowledge’:

Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel Human Capital Transformation Promoting Sustainability

Textile Today

special supplementary on ‘Sustainability’:

‘Sustainability’ being one of the three pillars, Textile Today has taken special initiatives in helping companies promoting their ‘Sustainable’ interventions.

Publication of special supplementary magazines in four different categories is one of such initiatives.

On the occasion of 10 years celebration of Textile Today four special supplementary magazines will be published in 2018. These are

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Individual/companies can submit: Editorial, Case Studies, Results of piloting, Feasibility reports, Product/Service analysis, Interviews, News & Views etc.

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Safety Today

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Fifth Jamdani fair shows a new hope promoting.....

Printing Today Printing Today- Best Practice

‘Transition Accord’ goes into effect without major bands

59-60 42

Accord, Alliance to leave Bangladesh in January 2019: Commerce Minister

Printing should be recognized as independent industry......

Printing Technology

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GOTS India seminar focused on business efficiency

Collaboration Today

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Archroma joins hands with UET to bring up innovative research in textiles

Textile People

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Tuomo Poutiainen becomes Country Director...

BSAHRP gets new executive committee

Retailers Today

36 10

Asos to ban mohair, silk, cashmere, and feathers towards animal welfare

62-63

Bangladesh textile & apparel industries required to....

Market Analysis

66-68

Why Indian technical textiles industry growing rapidly

News & Analysis

71

Govt. to form Tk. 10,000cr fund for jute sector development

71

Archroma reveals aniline-free denim indigo dye

42 73

India’s apparel export declining fast Global apparel giants to raise orders from Turkey

Technology Today

78

Researchers develop color-changing fabric controlled by smartphone

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Scientists found solution to fabric pilling

82

Spacetex2 examines functional textiles under zero gravity

Retailers Today

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H&M collaborates with lingerie brand ‘Love Stories’

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Sears to close more 72 non-profitable stores

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Upcomin Events

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ITM 2020 will be of 5 days to be held on 2-6 June

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BD engineer Dr. Nazmul Karim wins to commercialize .....

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Editorial

10 reasons why Bangladesh will not be able to achieve $50 billion apparel export by 2021 Tareq Amin By the end of the current fiscal year in June 2018, Bangladesh will have three financial years remaining to take its yearly apparel export to USD 50 billion. In the editorial of Textile Today May 2018 issue we have identified 10 reasons why Bangladesh will be able to achieve the target. This article on the contrary will talk about the reasons why the country won’t be able to achieve the target.

Table 1 shows that strategic apparel/RMG export target is 30.16 billion USD for the FY 2017-18. At the end of first 11 months, Apparel exports increased 9.77 percent year-on-year to $28.12 billion. Knitwear exports rose by 11.48 percent to $13.94 billion and woven garments exports were up by 8.15 percent to $14.18 billion.

The country achieved $28.12 billion USD in 11 months which is 3.24 % higher than the strategic target of the same period. That means if the country can continue to do export in the similar pace at the end of the year RMG export will be around 31.14 billion USD. To achieve 50 billion USD early apparel export by June 2021, Bangladesh has to increase its RMG export from 31.14 billion USD to 50 billion USD in three years, which is a growth of more than 60%. To achieve this target Bangladesh needs to get 16.9% year on year average growth as shown in table 2.

To achieve 50 billion USD early apparel export by June 2021, Bangladesh has to increase its RMG export from 31.14 billion USD to 50 billion USD in three years, which is a growth of more than 60%. To achieve this target Bangladesh needs to get 16.9% year on year average growth as shown in table 2.

After a sluggish financial year 2016-17, if we keep all the current positive happenings in mind the sector Products

Export for 2016-17

Expected RMG Export 2017-18 (Billion $)

Target RMG Export 2018-19 (Billion $)

Target RMG Export 2019-20 (Billion $)

Target RMG Export 2020-21 (Billion $)

31.14

36.40

42.55

49.75

Table 2: Target growth to be achieved in coming years in an expected CAGR of 16.9%

again can hope that Bangladesh may be able to make it happen. However if we look at the growth pattern of the last ten years as shown in the cover story of June issue, it won’t convince us that we can gain a consistent 16 percent or more growth in upcoming 3 years in row. Meanwhile one may say that Bangladesh has future potential to achieve the target as per the May editorial; however there are potential reasons why Bangladesh won’t be able to achieve this or even get closer.

If somebody asks, why Bangladesh will not be able to achieve this? We can mention 10 strong reasons why the country will not be able to achieve 50 billion targets.

1. I ncreasing cost of doing business: Because of the fast fashion trend, the apparel industry has become a very low profit industry. People are increasing volume to save pennies. With current financial happenings in Bangladesh, companies are struggling in maintaining cost of doing business.

To cope up with the increasing government expenditure, GoB is imposing more and more taxes, vats and other tariffs on the people and businesses, it is creating great pressure on apparel manufacturers. Cost of fuel and power is also increasing drastically. Transportation cost,

Export Target of 2017-18

Strategic Target for JulyMay. 2017-18

Export Performance for July-May. 2017-18

% Change of export Performance Over s.

Export Target

Export Performance for July-May. 2016-17

% Change of export performance July-May. 2017-18 Over July-May. 2016-17

(20) RMG (Chapter 61&62)

28149.8

30160

27246.14

28128.6

3.24

25624.77

9.77

(a) Knitwear (Chapter 61)

13757.3

15100

13641.14

13940.06

2.19

12504.94

11.48

(b) Woven Garments (62)

14392.6

15060

13605

14188.5

4.29

13119.83

8.15

Table 1: Summary of RMG export performance of Bangladesh in the period July-May of FY 2017-18 and comparison with strategic targets. (Source: EPB)

12

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Editorial

wages and system losses everything is increasing rapidly. Overall situation is discouraging further investments in the sector.

2. D epleting natural resources: Apparel industry is a resource hungry industry. Historically it moved to the places where resources like water, energy and manpower has been widely available and cheap.

Bangladesh apparel industry is quickly depleting its natural resources. Once the country was known that it is floating on gas and oil, now the country is becoming dependent not only for oil but also for gas. If this trend continues, the cost of resources will continue to grow. And then businesses will look for value adding other options of using their resources. Textile and apparel industry will suffer if it can’t make sure transforming as a high value industry. The industry is polluting Bangladesh weather rapidly which has a great cost as well.

3. Slow business processes: The apparel world moves very fast with the concept of fast fashion.

Companies who were planning 1 year or 6 months ahead now wants to refill their stores in every 2 or 3 weeks. And so ‘Speed of businesses has become very crucial now. To reduce lead time of shipment, Bangladesh needs to expedite its commercial and logistics processes. Even though companies reduce manufacturing lead time drastically, they are suffering for slow business processes in management with in the company and out of the company activities. Slow government services are affecting greatly.

4. Lack of global integration: Bangladesh is a good place for foreigners in getting job done. And that’s why many global companies have opened their offices and operations here to manufacture things they have selected for Bangladesh. The engagement is still very unilateral. The country could not yet set a comprehensive vision, that’s why could not help her to build trustworthy meaningful relation with key international countries. And Bangladesh could not decide what the country will do and don’t know how it will do that. Most of the time country only went with the trend. As per as the apparel industry is concerned, it is the need of global apparel brands that helped building the sector. Bangladesh was never in the driving sit. So, for the future if any major change comes in the global arena, the country won’t be able to drive itself to its target.

If Bangladesh had a trustworthy consistent and respected partnership with some countries, the country could achieve some strategic partnership and investments that could help the country in mitigating raw materials and other backward and forward supply challenges.

5. P oor infrastructure: Even though currently Bangladesh is investing a lot in infrastructure projects, the country is far behind in infrastructure

14

in compared to its competitor countries. Unless the country can remove its road and port congestions, it won’t be able to achieve the goal.

Professionals and workers working in the apparel industry are wasting a considerable amount of time on the road for bad traffic.

6. Lack of diversity: The country’s apparel export is not diversified. It heavily depends on few products and few countries. Bangladesh need to invest a lot in doing both product and market diversification.

Due to fast fashion trends the country has to find out growth opportunities on the product ranges other than high volume low price products. Due to the uncertainties in Europe and the US, the country has to increase its export to the emerging Asian countries.

7. I dentity crisis: Bangladesh is known to the global arena that it is a place for producing volume orders in low price. Due to this reputation, the country is not getting right price for the value added products. Unless the country has a planned and focused branding plan, the country won’t be able to attract high value quality and fashionable items.

To secure a radical growth, Bangladesh and its companies have to rebrand them with a deliberate control in reputation and market positioning.

8. P olitical and economic instability: As the governments are being challenged in every 5 years, and as the country doesn’t have a strong stable and popular government, political uncertainties are very common in Bangladesh. It badly affects the growth as it affects the policies, economic movement and activities.

9. S upply uncertainties for raw materials and intermediaries: Even though Bangladesh is in textile and apparel exports for about 40 years now, Bangladesh is heavily dependent to others for its key raw materials like cotton and other intermediaries like fabric and accessories. Now the country should increase its capacities in noncotton area where it could be able build its own raw materials production. Bangladesh should invest more in transforming its jute into value added textile and fashion products.

10. Technology and management skills: Even though Bangladesh is producing a huge number of graduates every year in the area of textile and apparel, the quality of education is still a question. Even though about 4.5 million people are working in the sector the quality of management is yet to improve. Even though the country has installed state of the art technologies, optimum application is yet to achieve.

As we have identified 20 points in this article and in the previous one. Now it is time to work very fast but effectively to take the country towards achieving 50 billion USD yearly apparel export within 2021.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Cover Story

RMG sector needs long-term consistent policy measures to grow further Textile Today Research The government’s recent budgetary proposals to increase both the corporate and source tax rates would bring a fresh blow to the country’s readymade garment (RMG) sector. The budgetary measures if implemented would also seriously affect the $50 billion export earnings target from the RMG sector by 2021.

According to the industry people, the proposed budgetary measures, at one side, would increase the cost of production while eat up its competitive edge in the global market.

Finance minister AMA Muhith in his budget speech on June 07 proposed 15 percent corporate tax rate for manufacturers and exporters of readymade garments from existing 12 percent. The minister has also proposed 12.5 percent tax for the garment factories that are public limited companies.

Besides, 12.0 percent tax has been proposed for the garment factories having green building certification from existing 10 percent. In addition, as the finance minister did not mention anything regarding the source tax, RMG sector has to pay it at the previous rate of 1.0 percent from the next fiscal year.

The country’s vital growth engine is RMG sector, which needs to flourish in a vigorous manner mainly to achieve the targeted $50

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: The recent budgetary proposals would affect the $50 billion export earnings target from the RMG sector by 2021.

billion export earnings by 2021.

There are already impediments that need to be removed for speeding up the growth while the proposals would hinder it.

Increase in ‘cost of production’

According to industry people, the cost of production in the country has already gone up 17 to 18 percent in recent times due to various reasons including compliance issues, increased utility rates, and an appreciated rate of

Table: 1 Contribution of RMG in the total export earnings Year

Export of RMG (In million US$)

Total export of Bangladesh (In million US$)

% Of RMG’S to total export

2011-12

19089.73

24301.90

78.55

2012-13

21515.73

27027.36

79.61

2013-14 24491.88

30186.62

81.13

2014-15 25491.40

31208.94

81.68

2015-16

28094.16

34257.18

82.01

2016-17

28149.84

34655.92

81.23

2017-18

31136.33 (Est)

37335.42 (Est)

83.40 (Est)

Source: Export Promotion Bureau (EPB)

Volume 11, Issue 06

15

Cover Story

local currency against US dollar.

There is also pressure of compliance. A garment factory has to invest Tk 5.0 crore to Tk 20 crore in post inspection flaw fixing activities.

billion export target by 2021, an estimated 16.9 percent year on year growth is required from now on.

Table 3: Growth during last 15 years 2002-03

7.16%

Table 2: Hike in utility and other cost

2003-04

15.76%

2004-05

12.87%

Wages

32.35 percent

2005-06

23.11%

Accessories, packaging and washing

4.88 percent

2006-07

16.59%

2007-08

16.16%

Electricity

15 percent

2008-09

15.40%

Gas

15 percent

2009-10

1.21%

2010-11

43.36%

2011-12

6.56%

2012-13

12.71%

2013-14

13.83%

2014-15

4.08%

2015-16

10.21%

2016-17

0.20%

C&F/ Freight/ 40 percent Transport Loss of competitiveness The proposed tax hike would also affect the competitiveness of the locally made apparel in the global market. The sector is facing stiff competition with competitors like Vietnam, Cambodia and India while India has come up with huge support to increase its export volume mainly to be competitive.

On the other hand, Bangladesh government has taken such budgetary measurers that would negatively affect the growth.

Besides, prices of locally made apparel are falling in the global market. The export price of garment products has gone down 30 percent between 2000 and 2015, according to the industry people.

Cost of production has increased but the export price has decreased. To cope with this reality is the biggest challenge of the local industry.

Bangladesh’s competitors are getting special treatment in the USA and the EU through their bi-lateral and other regional trade agreements.

Growth During the last 15 years, RMG export grew by more than 15 percent, which came at 0.20 percent in last fiscal. The growth trend of current financial year is good. The country is set to get about 10% growths in RMG export in FY 2017-18. To achieve the $50

16

of Tk 16000 crore to Tk 17,000 crore as source tax at a rate of 0.7 percent. And if it is increased to 1.0 percent, the sector has to pay additional Tk 700 to Tk 800 crore as source tax only.

The entrepreneurs would be discouraged if corporate tax is increased whereas the sector needs more and more investment.

Consistent policy support In fine, the sector needs a predictable and long-term consistent taxation and other policy measures to help the sector to grow and flourish further. In addition, in this regard the taxation policy should be at least for five years as each year’s changes make the entrepreneurs frustrated. They do not get confidence in making investment plan.

Achieving such great percentage of growth at recent reality seems to be almost impossible. However if the government is sincere on achieving their set goal, they need to provide necessary support to the industry. Increasing tax for the RMG makers is an opposite blow.

Textile Today in its editorial of May 2018 issue mentioned the reasons why Bangladesh will be able to achieve its $50 billion export target by 2021. Current budgetary measure doesn’t comply with the requirements mentioned in the article.

Existing challenges to achieve $50 billion target Skilled and efficient people, safe place, uninterrupted power supply, smooth operation of port and stable politics are required to achieve the targeted growth. If these can maintained only then the target could be achieve quite easily.

Investments The sector needs investment more than what already invested in the last four decades to double the RMG export. According to the experts, an estimated $100-150 billion investment is needed in this regard.

The industry also needs clear and consistent fuel and power policy.

Government is reducing incentives and increasing tax and other costs every year. The industry deserves more direct support from the government to adopt abrupt changes of the international arena.

Clear and consistent policy is also required to make sure quality supply of workforce, research and development, product diversification, marketing and market diversification.

A strong and visible policy and support is also required in making sure consistent supply of raw materials, machinery, chemicals and accessories. To attract potential investment in the backward and forward linkage industries the government also has to make sure strong infrastructure and confidence in international and regional business and financial transaction processes. Government has to have strong position in making sure smooth and fast financial transaction for the business. Smooth and fast flow of materials and finance is a must for the growth of textile industry.

The government collects a revenue

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

T r a d i i t o n a l Te x t i l e s

Traditional lungi business expanding fast in local and global arena Bangladesh needs apposite vision and strategy for branding and marketing of its strength in manufacturing finest quality traditional cloth.

Abir Basak The use of lungi clothes is a part of Bengali tradition. Due to adopting the modern western culture, its popularity among the young people of the country has been diminished slightly, though its popularity among the aged people is just as same as it was before. However, the continuing and upcoming new trendy styles of lungi are also bubbling among young generation.

The quality of Bangladeshi lungi is the best in Asia. Many businessmen informed that there is a huge market for Bangladesh’s lungi in 25 countries including Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Oman, Bahrain, Dubai, Iraq, Kuwait, Libya, Indonesia, Canada, England and America as nearly one crore Bengali people working there.

Although the Bengali men are the main buyer of lungi, many people from India, Indonesia, and other countries are wearing Bangladeshi lungi now due to good quality, a variety of colors and designs. That is why the amount of exported lungi is increasing day by day.

Traders say lungi is also used as daily cloth by many peoples in Philippines, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Nepal, Singapore, East Africa and the Middle East. Though the values, types, and designs of lungi of those countries are different from Bangladeshi lungis but, to capture their market, these

18

Figure 1: Traditional lungi business is boosting in the national and global arena.

products are being manufactured to export.

Lungi startup and market value In recent times, a lot of changes came in lungi manufacturing technology and tradition. Lungi is undoubtedly the symbol of Bengal nobility. However, the demand for lungi is increasing day by day in village arena along with urban and the distinct identity of its own brand is spreading not only in the country but also in abroad. In Bangladesh, during Eid festivals lungi business remains on top all time.

Local lungi market size is worth of Tk 1.5 thousand crore. Helal and Brothers (Amanat Shah) started the first lungi branding in

Bangladesh. Afterward, almost 125 brands including Standard, ATM, Pakiza, Anushandhan, Bukhari, Sonar Bangla Textile, Decent, Unique, Ruhitpuri, Smart, Fazar Ali, JM, Sky, West, Rongdhonu are selling lungi. Its demand is rising in the country. It is now being sold in the foreign chain shop as a brand name.

It has been found in the various data analysis from the concerned persons that Bangladesh is earning around Tk 1,220 crore annually exporting about two crore pieces of lungi in 25 countries and almost 1,50,000 makers are involved with this sector directly and indirectly.

It is known that Indian businessmen are the big buyers of Bangladeshi lungi. Indian importers buy about 2.50 million pieces of

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

T r a d i i t o n a l Te x t i l e s

Designer Chandra Shekhar Saha from fashion house ‘Aarong’ made a new design in black lungi for the first time in the nineties.

Apart from the check, various works including print, batik, tiedye, block, embroidery etc. are available. Lungi is stitched up by round and has many similarities with the skirt.

Almost 1,50,000 makers are involved directly and indirectly

Around 125 Bangladeshi brands are selling lungi

Bangladesh’s lungi business at a glance.

Local lungi market size is worth of Tk 1.5 thousand crore.

BD is earning around Tk 1,220 crore annually exporting two crore pieces

Figure 2: Bangladesh’s lungi business at a glance.

lungi every year from Bangladesh and store in India’s West Bengal, Assam, Tripura, Bihar, and Delhi.

Then they export to different countries by putting their own company’s symbol or sticker on it.

According to the Bangladeshi Lungi Manufacturers, Exporters and Traders Association, at least 40 million people of Bangladesh use two pieces of lungi.

Although the Bengali men are the main buyer of lungi, many people from India, Indonesia, and other countries are wearing Bangladeshi lungi now due to good quality, a variety of colors and designs. That is why the amount of exported lungi is increasing day by day.

Lungi hat-bazar Due to the continuous growth of mechanical weaving since 1998, handloom lungi making culture has become stymied. In this way, 90 percent of the lungi is being prepared in power looms. Handlooms are being closed in every year.

The cost of production and working hours of lungi making by an electricity-driven machine and a handloom is like a race between a turtle and a hare. But the appreciation of handloom made lungi is always high all time.

Even in small quantities, handloom lungi main production hubs have survived in some areas like Pabna, Kumarkhali of Kushtia, Baburhat in Narsingdi, Ruritpur, Keraniganj in Dhaka, Pabna, Pathrail, Karatia, Balla in Tangail and Shahzadpur, Enayetpur in Sirajganj.

Along with hand-made, modern electric power looms have been added to Kumarkhali of Kushtia.

Accordingly, the domestic demand for annual lungi is around eight crore pieces, whose market value is about approximately 1.5 thousand crore taka. Every piece of lungi is sold from 200 to 1000 taka generally. However there are more sophisticated and costly lungi as well.

Design variety Check is the main feature of lungi in Bangladesh. If we think of popularity, one or two color check lungi is more popular than that of others. Check lungis are more popular among older people.

However, the change came in lungi design according to fashion rules.

There has been a slight change after independence.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 3: Lungi was being manufactured at ATM weaving section.

Volume 11, Issue 06

19

T r a d i t i o n a l Te x t i l e s

Bollywood in India, then we’ll see they’re continuing work to highlight lungi by presenting some glamorous ways. Recently a Bollywood movie song named ‘Lungi Dance’ of ‘Chennai Express’ performed by superstar Shah Rukh Khan and Deepika Padukone has spread over a craze among young generation. Different fashion ramps are also held in Dhaka sometimes to uphold this traditional attire.

Need the vision to boost up the sector more There is no doubt that Lungi business is accelerating in the national and global market. To fetch this market properly Bangladesh needs vision and strategy.

Figure 4: Mohammad Masud Rana, Manager (Administration) of Alauddin Textile Mills Ltd (ATM).

Manufacturing has been risen a couple of times, also increased the quality of goods. These products are now going to different markets of the world including Saudi Arabia, America, and India. Dohar and Nawabganj Upazilas of Dhaka are famous for the fame of woven lung is nationwide. Among many lungi hats in the country, jayapara is one of them. About 100 years ago, handmade lungi business started there. Jayapara Lungi is being exported to the abroad by meeting up the country’s demand.

Narsingdi and karatia lungi have a great value and honor in the world market.

Some businessmen inform the reporter from several villages of Sirajganj Sadar and Kamarkhand upazila that 5 to 6 thousand families of Paikosha village are involved in making pit dhoti and lungi.

Here, about 5 lakh gamcha and lungi are being made by almost 10 thousand pit looms and 1,000 power looms in every month which market price is around one crore taka. The craftsmen sell these items for two days in a week in the local Pachalia hat.

An initiative of fashion houses and brands Different corners for lungi are seen in different fashion houses in the country nowadays. Fashion House

20

‘Aranya’ who has been working on natural colors, has recently made the vegetable dye lungi for the first time. Aarong, Pride, Le Reve, Infinity, Anjan’s, K Craft, Nipun and many other fashion houses in the It is known that Indian businessmen are the big buyers of Bangladeshi lungi. Indian importers buy about 2.50 million pieces of lungi every year from Bangladesh and store in India’s West Bengal, Assam, Tripura, Bihar, and Delhi. Then they export to different countries by putting their own company’s symbol or sticker on it.

“Instead of print, check lungi is going on more now. The wages of workers in this industry is low.

A worker gets only 10-20 taka for one 350 taka rated lungi production,” he said.

country have different lungi corners.

There are several multinational brands working to increase the popularity of sub-continental lungi worldwide with different names and styles. Spanish fastfashion retailer Zara has recently launched lungi by naming ‘check mini skirt’ as the girls clothing.

Although their marketing policies and excessive prices have created criticism across the world along with sub-continent.

If we keep eye on film or music industry especially in Tamil and

Mohammad Masud Rana, Manager (Administration) of Alauddin Textile Mills Ltd (ATM) said to the reporter, “Country’s maximum lungi business is hat centered. Now customers give the highest priority to brands to purchase products.

In addition, in the case of design and quality, Amanat Shah and ATM lungi are ahead than others, which attracts people attention of all ages.

Current monthly production of ATM lungi is about maximum 10 lakh pieces.”

‘‘The cost of lungi making has been increased recently due to the unstable yarn market, the unusual price increase in color and chemical since the last couple of years. But in the unfavorable environment, there has been a lot of expansion in this sector,” he added.

Lack of skilled workforce, gas, electricity remains as great problem in this industry like other business. However, if the government subsidizes the dutyfree import of chemicals and banks give loans for entrepreneurs, lungi could be one of the leading and export earnings sector like readymade garments.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

To p S t o r y

Digital marketing as an opportunity to expand textile and apparel business Md. Ifrith Rahman Bangladesh is one of the leading textile and apparel manufacturing countries in the world. To attract the target customer the industry is taking many marketing strategies.

Nowadays with the change of technological environment, digital marketing has taken place a very important role in the world.

CONTENT marketing

SOCIAL MEDIA marketing EMAIL marketing

SMS marketing

SEO

Digital marketing Digital marketing is an umbrella term for all of your online marketing efforts. Businesses leverage digital channels such as Google search, social media, email, and their websites to connect with their current and prospective customers.

There are some common tactics of Digital marketing and all of this tactics are used in B2B (Business to Business) and B2C (Business to Customer). However, most of the textile business of Bangladesh is B2B. So for B2B all of those tactics are not applicable. Tactics those are applicable in the marketing strategy of a textile manufacturing company are discussed here.

Implementation of digital marketing A nice functional website Before you get fruits from the digital world, make sure you enter here with the best outlook and best functionality. An effective, functional and communicative website is the first step to promote a company or its products to the world. The website could be in the company’s own domain or the

22

Figure: Digital marketing can help to find targeted customers for apparel manufacturer.

company may have webpages in other platforms like, Alibaba, Amazon or Ebay.

increasing the amount of organic (or free) traffic that your website receives.

Textile and apparel manufacturing companies mostly focused only on production. They hardly focus on their own website. Photography, videography, content and graphics are very important. Even if the company has website, they don’t update it and they don’t use it in communication.

By using these tactics, textile and apparel manufacturing companies make an SEO friendly website which ranked them higher in the search engine and they are easily available to the respective client (buyer, other manufacturer etc).

Well optimized website not only gives rank but also create a good impression to the customer.

A functional and communicative website should become the vehicle of all sorts of company communication whether it is internal or external. For achieving marketing goals, textile and apparel manufacturing companies can produce regular stories for their website and other communication channels.

Search Engine Optimization (SEO) The process of optimizing your website to ‘rank’ higher in search engine results pages, therefore

If the manufacturing companies open their own site in B2B market places which are already good SEO site, the company itself will learn how they can improve SEO of the own pages and sites.

Content marketing The creation and promotion of content assets for the purpose of generating brand awareness, traffic growth, lead generation, or customers.

By using these tactics companies can create some business-related

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

To p S t o r y

content and publish them in textile related international and domestic blog or forum. This will create a good impression and also generate some lead for business.

There are number of textile, apparel and fashion media platform all around the world.

Textile and apparel manufacturing companies can produce stories on their best practices, CSR activities, product and process innovation etc. and can publish those stories in those media.

A careful look needs to be given in choosing the topic of the story to be communicated. Right communication channels required to be chosen. On top of everything there should be a concrete objective of the communication.

Textile and related companies may take assistance from professional content development and communication service providers in the aspect. Factory Tales, is such an initiative of Textile Today.

Textile Today is producing number of stories and contents for textile companies all around the world.

Social media marketing The practice of promoting your brand and your content on social media channels to increase brand awareness, drive traffic, and generate leads for your business.

Marketing through Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, and YouTube is the example of social media marketing.

Among the social media, LinkedIn is the most useful for the textile manufacturing companies as marketing perspective.

LinkedIn is a social media for the professionals, so a branch of textile manufacturing related professionals easily finds out on LinkedIn. By targeting textile related individual professionals and groups companies are easily generate some profitable lead and impression.

Facebook is the mostly used social network site. They contain a big database of people all over the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

world and all types of professions.

So by targeting those textile related professionals companies are generating their lead.

By using you tube, textile related companies could publish some video related to their production process, quality control process, ethical standard etc. that might create good impression and awareness about the company.

This strategy helps to increase sales volume of a company also.

There are other dedicated professional media hubs specific to textile and apparel industry.

Textile Today is such a platform where the textile companies can publish their stories and reach to the people specific to the industry. Noise reduction in social media communication is a great challenge. Many social media campaign fails only because it communicates more to the unnecessary people rather than right people. Using industry specific dedicated platform for communication will help a lot in this. Textile Today is building such a platform with all its services like knowledge dissemination, events, training, jobs etc.

Email marketing Companies use email marketing as a way of communicating with their audiences. Email is often used to promote content, discounts and events, as well as to direct people towards the business’ website.

This is the most important tactics of digital marketing in B2B setting. For textile and apparel manufacturing companies of Bangladesh email marketing is the biggest lead generation method.

By using email companies can contact with respective buyer especially with the foreign buyer.

But by using traditional email process it is very complicated and time consuming process.

There have some rules and regulation in this traditional email transportation.

By using email marketing

Volume 11, Issue 06

process it is so easy and less time consuming as well as more effective than traditional email communication process. Textile Today has a huge database of right textile, apparel and fashion professionals. Textile Today Newsletter every week reaches to their inbox. Using a professional service in sending your stories to customized right receivers reduces load on all parties. Textile Today make sure privacy and code of conduct in email using. Most of its newsletter goes to the right inbox.

SMS marketing SMS marketing (short message service marketing) is a technique that uses permission-based text messaging to spread promotional messages. To receive text message specials, new product updates or more information, customers are usually required to opt in to an automated system by texting an initial short code. When the 5 digit code is texted, that user’s phone number is then stored by whatever SMS marketing software is issuing the texts. A confirmation response is usually sent as receipt for opting in, with an opt-out code included for potential future unsubscribing.

Companies like machinery marketing, dye-chemical marketing, fabric marketing, yarn marketing, accessories marketing etc. are using SMS marketing tactic to communicate with their customer through SMS and upgrade their sales volume.

Overall, in this digital world Bangladesh textile industry needs to apply digital marketing tactics in their marketing strategy. If companies merge traditional marketing and digital marketing in their marketing strategy it will be more effective. By using digital marketing textile and apparel manufacturing companies easily can find their customer and create a positive impression on customer mind which help them to increase their sales and also maintain a good relationship with customer.

23

Cover Plus

Automation generates more job opportunities in Asia than it defunct Desk Report

However, alongside higher demand for goods and services related to increased output and technology changes more than offset this, with an associated 88 percent increase in employment, equal to 134 million jobs per annum.

Robotics, AI, and the Internet of Things also create new companies, industries, and jobs, adds the bank.

In addition, the greater complexity of modern production and growing demand for new personal services in healthcare, education, finance, and others areas, are

700 600 500 400 300

Average world: 74

200 100 Australia

Czoch Rop

Framce

swizarland

slowakia

Friland

Slovenia

Austria

Canada

Spain

Netherlands

Taiwan

Itely

Belgium

Denmark

United states

Japan

Sweden

Figure 2: Robot density – number of multipurpose industrial robots per 10,000 persons employed in manufacturing, global average of robot density is 74.

countervailing forces against technology-related unemployment, as they create new jobs.

New types of jobs have emerged to handle new technologies. A detailed analysis of occupation titles in India, Malaysia, and the Philippines found that 43–57 percent of new job titles that have emerged in the past 10 years are in ICT. The report explained it.

The countries with the highest density of robot workers According to the International Federation of Robotics (IFR), South Korea boasts 631 robots per 10,000 employees, which is eight times the global average.

Singapore, Germany, and Japan follow South Korea in the world automation league, says the IFR, with robot densities of 488, 309, and 303, respectively. The US has 189 robots per 10,000 employees, placing it seventh.

Figure 1: The adoption of robotics and other connected systems stimulated higher productivity and economic growth, creating 134 million new jobs, compared with the 101 million lost to new technologies.

24

Germany

0 Singapore

Using productivity as a broad measure of technological advance, ADB’s input/output analysis of 12 economies in Asia found that, had output remained the same. Technology-driven increased productivity would have brought a 66 percent decrease in employment, equal to 101 million jobs per annum.

Number of installed industrial robots per 10,000 employees in the manufacturing industry 2016

Republic of korea

According to a new report from the Asia Development Bank (ADB), it is great news for all of us that new technologies like robots, automation, and Artificial Intelligence (AI) are creating more jobs in Asia than they destroy.

Robots and jobs By analysis of five economies in developing

Asia showing that “Jobs requiring routine and manual tasks will be less in demand,over the past decade, annual expansion of employment in jobs intensive in non-routine cognitive tasks, social interactions, and the use of ICT, was 2.6 percentage points faster than total employment. Average real wages for these non-routine jobs increased faster than for routine and manual jobs.”

However, the bank acknowledges that technological advances threaten jobs as well as fuel productivity and demand.

“Emerging technologies such as robotics, 3D printing, artificial intelligence, and the Internet of Things, will help drive future prosperity, yet they also pose challenges for workers,” said the ADB. “The apparel and footwear industries, for example, are experimenting with completely automated production. Similarly, it is becoming technically feasible to automate more complex service tasks, such as customer support,” said the report.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Cover Plus

Benefits for workers The bank said, “There are reasons for optimism, despite the threat to many lower-skilled or routine jobs.

Technologies often automate only some tasks, not the whole job.”

“Automation targets mainly routine tasks, such as soldering components onto a circuit board repeatedly on an assembly line, which is both routine and manual, or counting and dispensing cash in a bank, which is routine and cognitive,” the ADB mentioned.

Job automation goes ahead only where it is both technically and economically feasible. Data on industrial robots in Asia shows that the two largest users are the electrical/electronics industry and automobile manufacturers, each accounting in 2015 for 39 percent of total robot use but, together, only 13.4 percent of total manufacturing employment.

By contrast, producers of textiles, apparel, leather goods, and food and beverages together accounted in the same year for only 1.4 percent of robot usage, but 31.4 percent of manufacturing employment.

Need more skills In 12 economies in developing Asia that account for 90 percent of employment in the region, an estimated 40 percent of manufacturing and service jobs entail mostly routine tasks, either manual or cognitive. However, many of these jobs are unlikely to be lost. Some will be restructured instead, and automating others will not be technically or economically feasible.

R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Physically challenged Richard Ramsay won Nike Maxim award Desk Report Footwear developer Richard Ramsay, who born without his left arm, recently won a Nike Maxim, an internal employee award.

His prime work was on the Nike FlyEase, a shoe with a lace-free system designed for athletes of all abilities and ages. Richard Ramsay started his Nike career only selling the very shoes but now he creates.

Nike is a major publicly traded sportswear and equipment supplier based in the United States. The company is headquartered near Beaverton, Oregon, in the Portland metropolitan area. It is the world’s leading supplier of athletic shoes, apparel and a major manufacturer of sports equipment.

In an interview, Richard Ramsay expressed, “My morning starts with the potential to serve the athlete and I believe that nothing is impossible in the world.”

He also said, “Nike supports me in many ways: From challenging me professionally, to allowing me to

26

The favorite Nike quote or mantra of Ramsay is “Just do it.” “Growing up with one arm, this is something I lived by. It pushed me. It is hard to think of a greater Nike quote,” he added.

Phil Knight, Co-founder and Chairman Emeritus of NIKE, Inc. talked about the Nike and said that “It’s not a single product model, nor a single manager, nor one ad, nor a single celebrity, not even a single innovation that is the key to Nike. It is the people of Nike and their unique and creative way of working together.”

He also said, “At Nike, every employee is an explorer. We unite diverse perspectives — scientists and shoe designers, coders and quarterbacks — to share knowledge of the body in motion.

We house countless designers and innovators. That includes computer scientists, physiologists, chemists, materials developers — even a planetary astrophysicist.”

However, “Automation will hurt workers in routine and manuals jobs,” admitted the ADB. New jobs will appear, but they may require skills that such workers do not possess. Further, as firms and industries adjust to new ways of producing and distributing goods and services, the resulting disruptions along existing supply chains may cause unemployment.

innovate for athletes all over the world, to providing groups like the Ability Network which connects people with various abilities.

Through it all, Nike is the common thread.”

Figure: Richard Ramsay, born without his left arm, brings inspiration and innovation to every athlete in the world.

The products of Nike are available in 190 countries and they are developed by top designers, engineers, and salespeople. Nike represents a global culture of sport, style and the pursuit of greatness.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

In Focus

Invest in ‘Human Capital’ for making sure compliance and business transformation Bangladesh apparel sector needs to concentrate on human capital development, one of the biggest parts of social compliance MM Uddin

Export per million employees 160

Bangladesh has celebrated first national compliance carnival 2018 in International Conversation city Bashundhara in April this year. Many national and international stakeholders, special guests and compliance professionals delivered their valuable speeches on the occasion about the different dimension of compliance issue. Bangladesh has done tremendous improvement last few years in the social compliance after Rana Plaza building collapse.

The billion dollars industry owners have been expending millions of dollars to fulfill the international demands, satisfy the buyers and stop the negative propagandas around the world. It seems that everyone realizes the importance of compliance, but at the same time, they missed the human capital development issue, one of the biggest parts of social compliance.

A comprehensive research on “Business success priorities” showed that 70% business success depends on human capital or Talent Management.

Top Business Priorities 70%

Human Capital/Talent Management Technology Implementation

57%

Operational Efficiency/Cost Management

57%

Customer/Client Service

57%

Revenue Growth

39%

Executing on Major

36%

Innovation Product or Techonology

35%

Competitive Positioning/Gaining Market

28%

Improve Loss Performance

19%

Risk and Regulatory Compliance

17%

Geographic Expansion

14%

Product Expansion

10%

Mergers & Acquisitions Improve/Manage Captial Adequacy Organizational Restructuring

7% 7% 1%

One of the main targets of social compliance is to make sure best practices, ensure worker disciplines, improve their living standard not only confirm safety and security. In addition, it will never come without human capital improvement, we have to remember human capital improvement is the first step of all industrial successes. If the industrialists think that human capital development is equally important as like compliance that will bring huge business.

According to the data of ITC-WTO global garments business is worth $ 503 billion dollars, whereas only china, Vietnam and Turkey respectively exports around $ 147.8, 24.65 and 14.78 billion dollar by only 10, 2.5 and 1 million workforces. On the other hand,

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

147.8

140 120 80 60 40 20 0

13.46

24.65 14.78

Export/Billions

14.78

10

4.2

2.5

1

Employees/Million China

Bangladesh

Vietnum

7.97 9.86

14.78

Per Million Exproted Turkey

Source: ITC-WTO, 4 June 2017

In china per million garments employee exports around 14 billion USD whereas our country is exporting less than 8 billion USD. If we try to find out the reasons for the discrepancy, we will find one of the major reasons is the non-skilled worker. The problem could be vanished by investing on human capital improvement.

Bangladesh exports $ 33.46 billion dollars by 4.2 million workforces.

In china per million garments employee exports around 14 billion USD whereas our country is exporting less than 8 billion USD. If we try to find out the reasons for the discrepancy, we will find one of the major reasons is the non-skilled worker. The problem could be vanished by investing on human capital improvement. It is one of the significant ways out for creating our future business sustainable and captures the share, which is gradually lost by China in the global market.

China, Turkey, Vietnam are spending millions of dollars for developing human capital and it is a reason that they are our competitor without GSP facilities.

A few days ago, the ADB country director said that Bangladesh has significantly reduced the poverty level and extreme poverty. “Bangladesh now needs more policies to improve its human capital and their skill development for getting success further in reducing poverty,” he opined.

If Bangladeshi garments millers pay attention to improve workforce’s skills in that way they have already paid attention on compliance issue, then a small setup will be able to produce more products with better quality. In addition, it will ensure the living standard with sustainable industrial progresses.

27

Market analysis

Factors affecting textile dyestuffs market Textile Today Research A recent research report published

by Research and Markets has said that the global textile dyes market was of USD 7.34 billion in 2017.

The report forecasted a growth of CAGR of 6.00% from 2017 to 2022 and reaching to USD 9.82 billion. The preview of the report said that the growing demand is mainly because of the growing demand in the fibers like cotton, polyester, and viscose. However, industry insiders opined that the growth will be in fact the impact of the increasing cost of dyes intermediates and environmental compliances.

Dr. NNM Mahapatra, President, Colorant Ltd. said that fluctuating supply and prices of H ACID is affecting dyestuff manufacturing and its prices. As per his speculation, the intermediary supply will get more inflexible and more shaking in coming days which will have a great impact on the sector. Stringent environment compliances in China and India will put tremendous impact as well.

Textile dyestuffs users in Bangladesh expressed their concerns about fluctuating price and supply of dyestuffs. They said that the market is getting more monopolized every year and the users are not getting much space. Strict environmental pressure and compliances to the textile manufacturers will have the greatest impact on the market they opined. Everyday manufacturers are trying to choose more efficient and environmentfriendly dyes to reduce the cost of manufacturing and to reduce the impact on the environment.

28

Figure: Environmental compliance issues will put the greatest impact on dyestuffs market in coming days.

The report highlighted the future demand of cotton saying the fiber will see the fastest growth in coming days. The report also emphasized that properties like durability and abrasive resistance of textile dyes are the key drivers for the expected increase in demand from this segment. The report concluded that as cotton has those properties, the demand of the fiber will grow fast and so the demand of dyestuffs required to dye cotton will increase significantly in coming days.

Meanwhile, industry insiders differed in opinion saying cotton as a cash crop will face tremendous competition with food grains in coming days and so its production and cost will increase. And this will result in a reduction of cotton demand in the textile world.

Industry insiders opined that demand of regenerated fibers like

viscose, lyocel will increase very fast. While polyester as a fiber will continue to grow as well.

Meanwhile, industry insiders also opined to this reporter that with the increasing demand of last end design alteration on clothing, demand for printing will increase significantly in coming days.

Hence demand of dyes usable in digital printing heads and printing paste will increase. The demand for printing inks will also increase significantly.

The textile dyehouses are looking for cleaner dyestuffs and processes. And so they are working hard to reduce wastage.

The demand for high-performance dyes, pigments and inks will be on the rise. On the contrary low efficient dyes will face big market challenges.

Industry insiders also opined that the consumption of dyestuffs may

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Market analysis

go down in coming days, mainly because of growing demand of efficient dyes and an increase of printing as a method of coloring.

However another trend, washing and vintage worn-out looked fashion will offset this trend and eventually the demand of dyes in volume is expected to remain almost stable.

The report eventually identified that the APAC region is expected to witness the highest growth during the forecast period. The growth in this market is driven by the high demand for textile and fabrics in APAC countries owing to

the large regional population and large textile manufacturing bases in the region.

Among the APAC countries, Bangladesh is going to get one of the fastest market growths in coming days mainly due to its competences in making fashion apparel for the west. With the increasing demand of Bangladeshi apparels, fabric processing is also increasing significantly in Bangladesh coming down mainly from China. All together Bangladesh’s importance for dyestuff manufacturers is expected to increase very significantly.

The dyestuff manufacturing industry is becoming more marginalized and polarized day by day. While its users are there all around the world, only a handful of countries are manufacturing dyestuffs. Influence of India as dyestuffs manufacturing is increasing day by day. While China is taking more suitable policy for exporting dyes intermediates, dyestuff manufacturing industry is more moving towards India.

However, China still remains as one of the leading dyestuff manufacturers in the world.

Apparel exports rises 9.77 percent in first 11 months of current FY Desk Report Apparel exports increased 9.77 percent year-on-year to $28.12 billion in the first 11 months of the current Fiscal Year (FY) 2017-2018.

Knitwear exports rose by 11.48 percent to $13.94 billion and woven garments exports were up by 8.15 percent to $14.18 billion. According to the growth trend, the country is supposed to cross the milestone of exporting $30 billion worth of apparel by the end of this June in the current fiscal year.

According to the data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), overall, exports rose 6.66 percent year-on-year to $33.72 billion in the July-May period. The earnings narrowly missed the periodic target of $33.87 billion.

“At the end of the year, we will be able to export more than the target set for the current fiscal year at $30.16 billion,” said Siddiqur Rahman, president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

“The export growth in the apparel sector in June might be a little less, but it will grow more from July

30

onwards as the manufacturers have a handful of work orders,” he added.

4 3.5 3 2.5 2

In recent months, garment export to 1 the US is declining 0.5 as China, India 0 JUL’17 AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN 18 FEB MAR APR MAY and Vietnam are performing well Figure: Export Earnings (in billions of dollar), Source: Export to the US markets Promotion Bureau (EPB) but the earning are full of orders from international from garment retailers and brands, thanks to the export even crossed the 11 months’ massive progress in workplace target at 3.24 percent to $27.24 safety carried out by the Accord, billion. the Alliance, and the government,” “We are performing strongly in the he added. new markets like in Japan, India, According to the report of EPB Russia, South Africa, and Australia for FY 2017-18 July-May, Cotton, and in Latin American markets,” cotton products, and yarn exports said the leader of the apparel went up by 15.86 percent to exporters’ body. $117.15 million, jute and jute goods He also stated that “we need to fetched $966.90 million, up by modernize our machinery and 6.99 percent, home textile export production for more productivity rose by 11.67 percent to $823.00 to be more competitive in the million, leather and leather goods global apparel markets.” export went down by 11.08 percent to $ $999.07million.

“The country’s garment factories 1.5

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

J u t e To d a y

India has the potential to produce quality jute: Smriti Irani Desk Report Union Textiles Minister Smriti Irani claimed that India has the potential to become one of the largest jute exporters in the diversified section if the quality of the raw material can be improved.

The minister also urged the jute industry to bolster the center’s initiative in providing certified jute seeds to the farmers that would produce a better quality crop.

“When we look at jute, we wonder why our jute industry has not galloped ahead like Bangladesh.

One of our biggest challenges has been the output of the raw material which is not fine enough for enhanced diversification,” Irani said while addressing the members of the Merchants’ Chamber of Commerce on May 31.

The minister pointed out that the agricultural ministry and the textile ministry invited all state governments to ensure that certified seeds are given to the jute farmers through every Krishi Vigyan Kendras (the agricultural extension centers created by the Indian Council for Agricultural Research to provide farm support).

“I would encourage the jute industry to become a participant in that endeavor so that the productivity and income of the farmer increases and at the same time our crop becomes finer and better for more diversification,” she said. Pointing out that India is the largest jute producing country in the world, she said: “we have the potential to become one of the largest jute exporters in the diversified section”.

In the world trade, jute sector takes a great place. It is great news for the farmer who is growing jute

Bangladesh Textile Today |

because peoples are feeling the demand for natural fiber.

Jute fibers are cheaper than cotton fiber. Most raw jute exporting countries are Bangladesh, India, Kenya, Pakistan, and Tanzania.

Now here are top ten largest jute producing countries in the world.

Figure 1: Smriti Irani, speaking on jute, the biggest challenge is the quality of the raw material.

Country

Production (in metric tons) per year

India

1968000

Bangladesh

1452044

China

45500

Uzbekistan

20000

Nepal

18000

Myanmar

17000

Thailand

12000

Vietnam

12000

Sudan

3350

Egypt

2508

Table: Top ten jute producing countries in the world. Source: CFC 2017

The Union Minister said the Centre is providing support to the partners of the jute industry, who have enhanced the diversification of jute products so that they can be self-sufficient and do not have to completely rely on the government’s support.

She also highlighted the importance of the newly emerged technical textile sector and hoped the Bengal textile industry that

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contributes to more than five percent of the overall national textile segment will be a huge participant in the development of this sector.

Jute is second-ranked after cotton based on usage and cultivation; the growth of this crop is dependent on soil, season, and climate. Besides, statistics show that over 85% of the global production of jute is done in Ganges Delta which is located in Southern Asian. Jute is a fully bio-degradable natural fiber and the cheapest vegetable fiber after cotton to cultivate.

Hence. It is well loved by environment because the products do not pollute the environment and in the recent past, most countries have switched to jute products which include bags, shoes, and mats. Consumers are preferring these products since plastics have become a major contributor to pollution.

It is usually referred to as ‘the golden fiber’ and its quality differs according to softness, color, strength, length, and luster. This has seen the demand and supply of jute increase globally.

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S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y - C i r c u l a r F a s h i o n

CYCLO recycled yarn from SIMCO to contribute in closing the loop Special Correspondent We feel confident when we are dressed well. Eventually the world is going through Fashion Revolution .And so we are in the age of fast fashion. For this reason consumers are using their products for very short time & then throwing them as waste. The rise of fast fashion is producing a huge waste to the environment. And at last it affects the environment very badly. Only in the UK over one million tons of fabric waste goes the landfill every year. Then we can assume how much waste is being produced every year worldwide.

To mitigate the challenges major global brands recently have committed to recycle back used garments into new recycled products to reduce the solid waste problem. Due to increasing consumer pressure for sustainable products ‘Circular Fashion’ is getting popular every day. And so the world needs more and more technologies and solution for ‘Circular Fashion’. This story tells how a Bangladeshi company comes forward with a new solution to the problem.

Bangladesh as a major manufacturing country for fast fashion products has been going through environmental risks over the decades. Rising sea level only makes this worse. Garment industries here producing for top fast fashion brands are also creating a lot of solid waste putting enormous pressure on the ground. Cut pieces, left out products or reject products from the brands are creating pile of solid fabric waste in and around the factories. Now this is the

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perfect time to think & take correct decision for Bangladeshi entrepreneurs also. CYCLO by SIMCO Spinning Mills is such an initiative that comes up with sustainable solution to the solid waste problem the brands are facing. The waste now could be transformed into treasures.

On 28 June 2018, at Four Points Sheraton Hotel in Dhaka, CYCLO Yarn by SIMCO Spinning & Textiles hosted the first ‘Close The Loop’ seminar where representatives from INDITEX, H&M, Walmart, Carrefour and other leading retailers gathered with representatives from garment manufacturers to focus on the responsible use of the tremendous amount of wastage fabric produced by the industry. At this seminar Mustafain Munir, Director of CYCLO by SIMCO Spinning & Textiles shared his experience with the cutting waste recycle technology which he is using in his Spinning mill over the past few Years.

CYCLO collects the raw materials from cutting waste from different garment factories & segregate them color & component wise.

The total procedure is mechanical without any application of chemicals. The CYCLO method eliminates the hazardous dyeing process as the colors of the fabric

Figure 1: Mustafin Munir, Director of CYCLO Yarn by SIMCO Spinning Ltd. presenting his cutting waste recycle technology to the audience.

are maintained throughout the recycling, spinning and garment making process. This process greatly reduces the use of water, harmful chemicals and dyes, along with reducing CO2 emissions.

Now the company is working with brands and exporting recycled fashion products. The technology can add necessary amount of polyester with mainly cotton cutting waste to make blended yarns. The company will be using recycled polyester and recycled nylon in future. SIMCO the

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Circular Fashion

CYCLO is not only for sustainibility but also for business as the cost reduces as there is no dyening process involved in the total process.

Figure 2: Representatives from INDITEX, H&M, Walmart, Carrefour and other leading retailers gathered with representatives in the seminar

manufacturing company of CYCLO yarn heavily spends on research & development. At the presentation Mustafain Munir asked different fiber manufacturers to come forward to do research works to solve the problems regarding strength of the recycled yarn.

SIMCO Spinning is working very well with the white color cotton yarn & they are very successful for different colored yarn also over the last few years. The process may take a little bit more time than the normal but SIMCO is doing it successfully.

The seminar has informed that SIMCO has been engaged with the export of garments from recycled CYCLO yarn for the last four years to the European market and CYCLO yarn is certified by GRS (Global Recycle standard ) .

Mr. Munir expressed his dreams to ensure sustainable supply chain as he is facing problems with the raw material collection. He asked the buyers to come forward and force garments suppliers to provide the cutting leftovers directly to SIMCO as they are working with it very successfully to produce recycled yarn in Bangladesh which is bringing great benefits to economy & ecology.

Ann Runnel, CEO of the Estonia based company Reverse Resources introduced her software in the seminar which traces and segregates the cutting waste throughout the manufacturing process and creates an online marketplace. This software can be one of the best possible

Bangladesh Textile Today |

solutions of the problems arising with the raw material collection.

Traceability is very crucial for the fast fashion brands, the way they will be able to report what percentage of wastage fabric the company is turning into recycled fashion products.

Mr. Munir expressed his dreams to ensure sustainable supply chain as he is facing problems with the raw material collection. He asked the buyers to come forward and force garments suppliers to provide the cutting leftovers directly to SIMCO as they are working with it very successfully to produce recycled yarn in Bangladesh which is bringing great benefits to economy & ecology.

Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world producing a huge amount of ‘cutting waste’ at its garment manufacturing factories. These cut pieces of fabric are not used clothes, these are good quality fresh fabric but becoming wastage at the cutting rooms of the garment factories. These are called ‘Jhuta’ in the local language. This cutting waste is the raw materials for reclyling. The total process of producing the yarn is mechanical without using any caustic material.

At first they have to sort out the raw material by component and colorwise. The main target of

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In the seminar, many questions regarding the process came up & Mr. Munir gave answers to them. Some of the guests attending in the seminar asked Mr. Munir about the blending accuracy & he assured them that the dedication & expertise of his team is ensuring it successfully.

Mr. Abdullah from Carrefour appreciated the initiative of CYCLYO and congratulates SIMCO for their effort. He also asked Mr. Monir that SIMCO Spinning is working with the cutting waste only or waste garments as well. Mr. Munir replied that he is working on the cutting waste only at this moment. Participants opined that technologies introduced by CYCLO

by SIMCO Spinning Ltd will be very effective to turn the wastage into fashion products. The solution is to put a great impact in the circular fashion gamut in closing the loop commitment of the top fast fashion brands.

SIMCO introduced this promising business idea in Bangladesh for the first time and is the first factory in Bangladesh to contribute in ‘Circular Fashion’ concept of global brands. SIMCO Spinning Ltd started its business in 2010, running very successfully till today & will go a long way.

SIMCO is producing open-end yarn from garment cutting clips and are producing yarn of counts ranging from 5/s to 20/s. Their production capacity is 15 tons per day, The company is using one of the best machineries from Europe.

The recycled yarn is produced mainly for knitting and weaving of products like Socks, Gloves, Towels, Home Textiles, Denims, Carpets, Mops, Curtains, Sweaters, T-shirts/Heavy knits/Fleece and Upholstery fabrics. SIMCO remains as the milestone company crafting the way out of the solid waste problem of Bangladesh and the whole world.

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S i l k To d a y

Story of reviving Bangladesh silk industry Al Takbir Mahim The lives and earning of many people are linked with the historical industry of silk.With the influence of open market, foreign silk especially China is dominating the world but in spite of that, silk and silk cloths made of Bangladeshi silk is quite valued. To take benefits from this reviving industry, by investing less amount of money in mulberry plants and silkworms, one can take an initiative to produce silk and there are many scopes to gain self-dependency by that. With the multifaceted initiatives taken by the government, silk cultivation or sericulture is again spreading nationwide. No need to mention that Bangladesh has a long history and culture of silk production and over the times the industry has been weakened. Thanks to strong local demand that is helping the sector revive again.

The Silk Production, Research and Training Centre of Bangladesh Silk Development Board is located in Maynamati of Cumilla and controlled by the Textile Ministry. The center is bringingbreakthroughs in sericulture. Through this center, the government is earning revenue andalongside thousands

Figure1: Silkworm larvae.

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of people is dreaming of selfdependencythrough the training.

of this tree provide food for the silkworms.

According to the authority of the center, only the uneducated or less-educated women of the rural and urban areas are given hand-to-hand training for mulberry cultivation and silkworm production.Due to the efforts of the current government, this potential sericulture is advancing towards prosperity not only in Cumilla but also in other places of the country as well.This sericulture is increasing rapidly in Rangamati and the Hill Tracts.

On the other hand, there are 25 advanced species of silkworms in this center, which are crossbred among the males and females to breed developed species of silkworm eggs and larvae. Among the 25 advanced species of silkworms, 14 are of pure species, 6 are local, 8 are foreign and 9 are hybrids. It takes three weeks to produce a whole cocoon from the start.

The Process of preparing silk cocoon from mulberry leaves Eggs those size is like a dot, and from those eggs come silkworms.

From a single silk moth, 400/500 eggs are being collected.However, previously only 20/25 kilograms of silk were produced from 100 eggs, but now they can yield 50-55 kilograms of silk cocoons.

Species and production Among the species of silk or mulberry plants produced in Maynamati, there are BM-3, BM-4, BM-6, BM-10, and BM-11 as well as other advanced local and Thai species of seedlings. The leaves

Higher profits in less capital By investing less capital in sericulture there are lots of scopes for becoming self-dependent by taking self-initiative with mulberry plants and silkworms.

Authorities have said that at the Silk Production and Research Centre of Cumilla’sMaynamati, they emphasize on the research of producing matriarchal and patriarchal species of silk.

The Assistant Director of the center Mr. Kanchan Baran Das has informed that after hatching one egg, 400 silkworm larvae are produced and one hundred pieces of such eggs cost 205 Taka only, from which 40 thousand silkworm larvae can be produced.

Figure2: Unmodified silkworms snack on mulberry leaves.

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S i l k To d a y

and cocoons. According to a silk businessman, in the last two fiscal years at least 1.5 million mulberry seedlings have been produced and distributed. This number has been increased to 2 million now.

At present more than 400 tons of silk is produced each year in an average. Along with that almost 50 tons of silk thread is also produced. However, the industrial units of silk mills in Rajshahi and Thakurgaon require a greater amount of silk thread.

Figure3: Colorful silk thread.

From one hundred eggs and later silkworms, 30/45 kilograms of cocoon can be made. Each kilogram of cocoon can be sold for 300 taka.

He said that to producehighquality sari 2 kilograms of the cocoon is sufficient. The silkworms from here are sent to various industrial units especially in places like Rajshahi, Jhineidah, Thakurgaon, and NGOs like IIRD, BRAC, and Karitas etc according to their demand.

In Maynamati, there are three rooms for nurturing silkworms, one factory for producing silk thread, one laboratory, one room for storing various tools and instruments, one dormitory and a facility with 40 beds for the lodging of trainees.

In the last fiscal year, Maynamati Silk Centre produced around 10 thousands of eggs;each hundred eggs are sold to the hill tracts for 205 taka only. It has come to be known that in the beginning of the current fiscal year, 4 thousand eggs have been produced in the last three months, and during the remainder 9 months, it is targeted to produce 12/15 thousand eggs of estimation. Meanwhile, in the last fiscal year after producing 25 thousand mulberry plant seedlings 10 thousand were sent to Khagrachari district, 10 thousand to Feni and 5 thousand to Langolkot and the southern town of Cumilla Each seedling cost was 50 paisa only.

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Required more steps to advance the sector Currently, the Silk Development Board is managing the silk production, training and research centers located in various districts including Maynamati of Burichang Upazilla of Cumilla, Jhineidah, Rajshahi, Thakurgaon, Feni, Bandarban, Khagrachari, and Rangamati.

Industry experts informed After hatching one egg, 400 silkworm larvae are produced and one hundred pieces of such eggs cost 205 Taka only, from which 40 thousand silkworm larvae can be produced. From one hundred eggs and later silkworms, 30/45 kilograms of cocoon can be made.

Each kilogram of cocoon can be sold for 300 taka. To produce high-quality sari 2 kilograms of the cocoon is sufficient. thatmany steps have been taken to increase the import duty of foreign thread and textile to save the country’s silk industry.

However, most of the silk farmers are terminal and landless people.

They don’t have the sufficient capital. Organizational assistance is also inadequate.

Multiple steps are being taken to eradicate the hindrances in the marketing of their produced silk

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In many districts, sericulture has been included in the government’s action plan of ‘A Home, A Farm’.

Under this, currently, thousands of farmers are cultivating the mulberry plant in 95 Upazillas of 35 districts.This number is increasing gradually.

The Maynamati Silk Production, Research and Training Center of Cumilla have been successful in sericulture. The production operation is run everyday by 10 working heads among whom only 3 persons are from the government and 8-10 men and women laborers hired according to the amount of task at hand.

There are training facilities as well throughout the year.

The Assistant Director of Maynamati Silk Center, KanchanBaran Das said that in spite of the inadequacy of workforce and allocated budget this silk center is in a profitable state in producing eggs, cocoons,and seedlings through production and research.

“People who are interested in sericulture even at their own home we will provide all sorts of assistance, he said.

There is a big demand for silk threads in the country but the foreign threads and fake silk thread, which are dominating the market, are a big hindrance to bringing this industry to a good shape, he opined.

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R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Asos to ban mohair, silk, cashmere, and feathers towards animal welfare Asos, the second biggest clothing site in the UK, pledges to be free from some animal-derived products from 2019 towards animal welfare Desk Report The fashion world is being more conscious in recent times in the struggle against animal cruelty.

Recently Asos, the UK based global online retail platform, has made the decision to ban silk, mohair, cashmere, and feathers across its entire platform by January 2019.

In a statement, Yvonne Taylor, Director of Corporate Projects at People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) said, “PETA applauds ASOS for leading the charge for compassion in fashion.

In response to PETA’s campaigns, consumers are changing the face of the industry by demanding that designers and retailers ditch animal-derived materials in favor of cruelty-free alternatives that look great without causing suffering.”

Tracy Reiman, Executive Vice President at PETA, said, “In response to PETA’s campaigns, consumers are changing the face of the industry by demanding that designers and retailers ditch animal-derived materials in favor of cruelty-free alternatives that look great without causing suffering.”

Asos’s policy stated that “Asos firmly believes it is not acceptable for animals to suffer in the name of fashion or cosmetics.”

“Asos is committed to working with industry expert groups to support the ongoing research, development, and implementation of animal welfare standards and transparency in the leather supply chain,” it said.

Asos follows Zara, H&M, and

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Figure: Asos is banning products which contain feathers, silk, cashmere, and mohair from its website.

Topshop, who all pleased about the news, but takes this further, suggesting that this is an issue close to the hearts of their target market, typically young shoppers in their 20s and 30s.

This generation of young people are engaged with issues such as animal rights, and increasingly buying more consciously.

According to the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), an American animal rights organization, South Africa is the predominant source of mohair for the international fashion industry, with 50 percent of the world’s mohair coming from the region.

However, managing director of Mohair South Africa Deon Saayman has stated that the company has cooperated with the NSPCA in order to ensure that

their manufacturing process is as ethical as possible.

Elisa Allen, UK’s director of Asos, said, “Consumers are changing the face of the industry by demanding that designers and retailers offer clothing and accessories that look beautiful without harming animals.”

Asos has 64.4m visitors in the six months to May 2018 and from the six months before 28 February count 16.5 million customers, clocking in at 29.9 million sales in total, though how many items are made from the soon to be banned products is unclear.

Earlier, in December 2017, London’s Old Spitalfields market announced that it would stop selling fur from 2018, and in February, designer Tom Ford confessed that his views on fur in fashion had changed since adopting a vegan lifestyle.

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C o t t o n To d a y

India looking for building ‘cotton brand’ India has concentrated on ‘branded cotton’ as they are getting fewer premiums than other cotton exporting countries for not having cotton branding.

Textile Today Analysis India is one of the largest producers as well as exporters of cotton and cotton yarn. Cotton plays an important role in the country’s economy, as its textile industry is predominantly cotton based.

Moving towards branded cotton Recently Union Textile Minister of India Smriti Irani said, “We need to emphasize to create ‘branded cotton’ for export purpose and ask the domestic industry to come up with a proposal.”

Several countries such as the US and Egypt have been able to create their own brand of cotton under the names ‘Supima’ and ‘Egyptian Cotton’ respectively.

According to Sanjay K Jain, Chairman of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry and board member of the Cotton Association of India, the matter is currently under deliberation. “The ‘Suvin cotton’ produced in Tamil Nadu and ‘Shankar 6’ produced in Gujarat is good quality cotton and can be projected as global brands.

The matter is in the deliberation stage,” he added.

“The quality of Indian cotton is not standardized at present due to several bad practices adopted by the various stakeholders including farmers, ginners, and traders,” said J Thulasidharan, President of Indian Cotton Federation.

Cotton production and export trend in India India has a big cotton industry for over 3000 years that is why it is

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recognized as the birthplace of cotton industry. India is famous for finest and beautiful cotton fabrics.

Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, and Rajasthan are the important cotton cultivating regions.

Country

Production (in million bales) per year

India

28.5

China

27.5

United States

20.9

Brazil

8.7

Pakistan

8.2

Turkey

4.8

Australia

4.0

Uzbekistan

3.9

Mexico

1.6

Burkina Faso

1.3

in bales in 2018/19. According to the below figure, cotton production in India is increasing significantly after a great reduction in 2015/16.

Table 1: Top 10 cotton-producing countries in 2017/18 May. (Source: USDA)

According to the Table 1, India has gained the first position in producing cotton all over the world. India is expecting to produce quality cotton 28.5 million

35 30

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Cotton in India is one of the most important commercial fibers and commodity exported due to their uses in textile industry, mattress etc.

Major markets for Indian cotton exports are Bangladesh, Pakistan, Vietnam, Indonesia, Turkey, Thailand etc. As per International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) report for the month of March 2017, India exported 8.8 percent share of cotton to the world.

29.5 25.5

27

28.5

25 20 15 10 5 0 Figure 1: Indian cotton production from 2013/14 May to 2017/18 May in millions of bales.

(Source: USDA)

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Exporter

R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Cotton exports (2017) in billion dollar

% World share

China

15.1

28.2

United States

7.6

14.2

India

4.7

8.8

Pakistan

3.5

6.5

Vietnam

2.6

4.9

Turkey

1.7

3.2

Hong Kong

1.6

3

Brazil

1.5

2.8

Italy

1.4

2.7

Germany

0.9728

1.8

Uzbekistan

0.8504

1.6

0.819

1.5

Spain

0.6896

1.3

South Korea

0.5174

1

Indonesia

Table 2: Top 15 nation’s cotton export share to the world market.

(Source: International Trade Center)

By value, the above listed 15 nations shipped 84.4% of all cotton exports in 2017. Global sales from cotton exports by country in 2017 totaled US$53.7 billion.

The Indian government is assisting the sector to go ahead. Now the Egyptian and US cotton fetch premiums over the conventional fiber from the same country in import markets, including India. Despite the Indian cotton having better quality and a huge potential for fetching a higher price, the lack of a branding initiative has yielded lower income for Indian farmers and traders.

Therefore, the government is asking a proposal to accommodate branding of cotton and also contract farming of the natural fiber. Several rounds of meetings have been held with the Ministry of Textiles and the guidelines for the ‘Indian cotton’ brand are currently underway. The Textiles Commissioner is responsible for the entire process.

“We will see ‘Indian cotton’ soon on the lines of Egyptian and US cotton,” said Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil).

Hugo Boss produces shoe from pineapple leaf fibers Desk Report German fashion brand Hugo Boss has developed a new menswear shoe produced with pinatex, a natural based material made of pineapple leaf fibers (PALF).

Pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) is rich in cellulose, abundantly available, relatively inexpensive, low density and nonabrasive in nature. It is also high filling level possible, low energy consumption, high specific properties, biodegradability and has the potential for polymer reinforcement.

The utilization of PALF as reinforcements in thermoplastic and thermosetting resins in micro and nano form for developing low cost and lightweight composites is an emerging field of research in polymer science and technology.

The upper of the shoe is made from pinatex, an innovative natural based material manufactured from pineapple leaf fibers by British Company AnanasAnam. Harvested

Bangladesh Textile Today |

as a byproduct of existing agriculture, the leaves require no extra resources to grow.

In combination with a recycled TPU sole, the shoe is 100% vegan and color using natural plant dyes as part of Hugo Boss’s aim to design a product that makes a minimal impact on the planet.

The shoes are presented in a fully recyclable and biodegradable paper box, made from 100% recovered fiber, will be sold in selected Boss retail stores and online.

Last month Hugo Boss outlined a series of new sustainability goals, including plans to increase its use of sustainable cotton, reduce the use of chemicals in its

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products, and to make a significant contribution to five of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Mark Langer, Chairman of the Managing Board and CEO, said, “Over the last few years, we have continued along our chosen path towards implementing a consisting sustainability management.

In doing so we focus upon what distinguishes us: quality, innovation, and responsibility.”

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E v e n t To d a y

GOTS India seminar focused on business efficiency Desk Report More than 180 delegates from five countries attended ‘GOTS India Seminar 2018’ titled ‘Sustainability as Key to Business Efficiency’ theme, organized by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) on 29 May 2018, informed an immediate release.

The seminar brought together all important stakeholders under one roof to discuss efficiency through sustainability. The attendees included international brands & retailers, Indian fashion brands, textile manufacturers, chemical suppliers, testing laboratories, accreditation bodies, academicians, industry organizations, certification bodies, standard bodies, media, service providers, consultants and other important stakeholders from the field of organic textiles and sustainability.

With time, focus on sustainable development has significantly increased both in India and the world. Actively implementing guidelines for protection of environment and people is seen as the instrument to secure the future and reputation of operations in the long run.

Indian companies presented case-studies on how investments in environmental and social compliances have led to increase in savings and therefore led to business efficiency and higher profitability.

“It was a very positive gathering and GOTS has done great arrangements at all fronts. I could meet many new friends and I am really happy with the response what I got from the audience at the

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Figure: Distinguished at the GOTS India seminar.

seminar”, said D. Subaashkumaar, Vice President of Anugraha Fashion Mill Pvt Ltd, Tirupur.

The released said that India has made immense progress in terms of processing of organic textiles.

As per December 2017 data, out of the 5,024 facilities GOTS certified worldwide, the highest, more than 1,650 are in India. The Indian brand SoulSpace shared their vision of GOTS certified clothing line for Indian consumers as one of the first movers. International brands H&M and Stanley/Stella reconfirmed their commitment to organic textiles as a part of their strategy to achieve higher levels of sustainability in their respective supply chains.

“Indian consumers, as well as Indian brands, are looking for ecological fashion products, but gaps remain for criteria and communication. GOTS has the potential to fill these gaps by providing uniform criteria for sustainable production and communication in all parts of the supply chain”, said Sumit Gupta, GOTS Representative in India and Bangladesh.

According to the release, total four sessions of the seminar addressed the various aspects of efficiency in sustainable fashion and textile manufacturing.

The sessions included buyers’ perspective, chemical compliance, social responsibility and futuristic certification systems.

A panel discussion was organized in session 4 on ‘Futuristic Certification Systems for Textile Chemicals’. Several panelists opined that Ecolabels like GOTS add value to product and process for both verification and effective communication. Harmonization of MRSLs, as well as Health & Safety of workers at chemical manufacturing facilities, were also discussed in the panel.

“I was very pleased with the response we have from across the supply chain, chemical manufacturers included. The speakers were on-point and the audience interaction was excellent.

It all goes to show that GOTS in India has a sustained, growing future”, said Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Managing Director.

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S a f e t y To d a y

C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y

‘Transition Accord’ goes into effect without major bands Desk Report The new Bangladesh worker safety pact, known as the ‘Transition Accord’, has fallen short of its goal of retaining 100 percent of the signatories from the initial agreement, reported Reuters.

The original agreement was 220 companies and about 175 of them have signed, but high-profile brands including Abercrombie & Fitch, Combs’ Sean John apparel, and Britain’s Edinburgh Woollen Mill have not signed, the Clean Clothes Campaign said.

Archroma joins hands with UET to bring up innovative research in textiles Desk Report Color and specialty chemical developer Archroma is helping to foster innovative research on textiles in Pakistan. In this regard, the company has signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the University of Engineering & Technology (UET), Lahore, Pakistan on a program that will run for five years.

Abercrombie said that it was reviewing the 2018 accord, while IKEA said it had chosen to focus on its own safety audit program IWAY rather than signing up.

Unlike the original accord, which expired on 31 May, the new one is open to non-garment companies like IKEA that produce home fabrics Figure: The new Bangladesh ‘2018 Acand textiles. cord’ known as the ‘Transition Accord’ Campaigners went into effect without some major brands like Abercrombie & Fitch. have urged them to sign up, arguing that other schemes such as IWAY lack transparency because they do not make inspection findings and reports public.

“We operate on a highly competitive market, and for competitive reasons we don’t hand out a list of our suppliers in Bangladesh or any other country,” IKEA told the Reuters.

IKEA too has refused to sign the new agreement, which is now open to factories producing home textiles, fabric, and knit accessories. Instead, the home furnishing giant relies on its IKEA Way code of conduct.

Clean Clothes Campaign also pointed out Walmart, Gap and VF Corporation for their lack of support for any Accord efforts dating back over the five years.

Established following the deadly Rana Plaza factory disaster in 2013, the Accord was a fiveyear agreement between brands and labor unions designed to improve garment industry safety standards that ended on 31 May 2018. Following the factory collapse that killed more than a thousand workers, the Accord was established to inspect and remediate factories in Bangladesh.

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Figure: Prof. Dr. Fazal Ahmed Khalid, Vice Chancellor of UET, Lahore and Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan were signing the MoU between the two institutions.

A press release informed that the partnership will explore futuristic innovations in textile research to help Pakistan’s textile industry. Both parties will jointly hold sessions to prepare students for the challenges of the textile industry through in-house training sessions, developmental projects, research in textile applications and process innovative methodologies by pioneering value additions.

UET students will also be able to join internship placement programs at the Archroma Center of Excellence at Karachi, said the release.

“Through this initiative of mutual cooperation, we will be able to share the latest knowledge and technological developments and to work together with the faculty and research team of UET,” said the release quoting Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan.

“Our MoU will go a long way in adding value in the fast-growing textile segment, from education to R&D development,” he added.

Prof. Dr. Fazal Ahmed Khalid, Vice Chancellor of UET, hoped that this partnership is going to have farreaching impact in textile research which will bear highly positive results for UET and Archroma.

“Our academic team has already collaborated with Archroma on projects that will have a far-reaching impact on the textile industry,” he said.

He further stated, “We are very enthusiastic about formalizing our mutual relationship and look forward to interesting research outcomes. Industrial liaison of students will create confidence and the training, internships and working sessions will benefit them in their career development.”

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S a f e t y To d a y

Te x t i l e w o r l d

Accord, Alliance to leave Bangladesh in January 2019: Commerce Minister

India’s apparel export declining fast

Desk Report

India’s apparel exports in April 2018 were to the tune of $1.34 billion, registering a decline of 22.76% against exports of $1.74 billion in the corresponding month of last year, as per the latest Index of Industrial Production (IIP) data.

US ambassador Marcia Bernicat said at Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) conference room on 28 May that, “Bangladesh’s RMG sector is much safer than in 2013 when the Rana Plaza disaster occurred and I urge BGMEA and the Government of Bangladesh to come to a quick resolution on the Accord and Alliance’s extensions in Bangladesh.”

Desk Report

Commerce Minister said, “Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) will look after our factories so there is no possibility of the Accord-Alliance extension after January 31.”

He also ensured that “After leaving the Accord-Alliance from Bangladesh, the Labor Ministry’s Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) will take responsibility for whatever the two organizations did.”

According to the IIP figures, apparel production in the country also noted a fall of 18.6% in March while an 11% drop was reported during April-March 2017-18 period.

This was the eleventh straight month when the industry reported a decline in apparel production.

25 20 15 10 5 0 Figure: Commerce Minister, Tofail Ahmed is giving a statement on Accord-Alliance at the Secretariat on 31 May.

After the above statement of Bernicat, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed said on 31 May, “Accord and Alliance will leave Bangladesh in January next year” at the secretariat.

According to the agreement, by May 31, the Accord-Alliance was supposed to be in Bangladesh, but later they were given six more months of the interim period, which will end on January 31.

Tofail stated that “There is no Accord-Alliance in any country in the world. Cannot go to Vietnam, cannot suggest that the AccordAlliance will come. Not in China, not in Pakistan, even not in India, so only in Bangladesh.”

“We are a self-respecting nation, there’s no more need for the Accord-Alliance,” he added.

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He also mentioned that “Rana Plaza accident occurred on April 24, 2013. Last 5 years, there was no accident at this time that means our factories are complianed.”

“Our electrical safety, fire safety, and stacking integrity of the building - all we renovated. Many factories have already been converted into green factories, so our factories are good,” he continued.

The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, a consortium of North American brands and buyers and the Accord is a platform of European brands and buyers. The two platforms started working in Bangladesh after the Rana Plaza accident.

JAN

FEB MAR

APR

Figure: Apparel exports from India continue to decline (in %)

“The exports are in a negative territory since October due to a declining trend in the global apparel industry. The high base effect has been release of rebate of state levies (RoSL) amount during April 2017 but the continued backlog in GST and RoSL is affecting the sentiments. We would like the government to address the issue at the earliest to reverse the trend of stagnating exports,” said HKL Magu, Chairman of Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC).

In the fiscal year 2017-18 that ended on March 31, India’s apparel exports fetched $16.71 billion, a decline of 3.83% compared to exports of $17.38 billion in the previous financial year.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

“

See advertisement at page 51

Design and process innovations in Sterling Laundry Ltd.

Bangladesh textile & apparel industries required to improve production methods with modern technology...

Fabric manufacturers have to appreciate local yarns to secure Bangladesh manmade yarn manufacturers‌

There is no option other than product diversification and automation to grow further‌

Factory

Ta l e s

Editorial

Advantages of designing at manufacturer-end in fast fashion value chain Tareq Amin Design is the intangible section of work in a value chain that could give highest return. In fast fashion world, not only the manufacturing, transportation, distribution & marketing has become speedy but also the designing process.

Fast fashion brands are looking for all solutions to speed up the process of introducing new design bringing new ideas and products.

As designing requires great understanding on the market need, mostly this is being done in the zone close to the fast fashion market. The brands invested in design studio and product innovations mostly close to their selling points in the west. However with the increase in complexity in consumer demand and so in design requirements, fast fashion market is demanding all sorts of variation in material, color, effects, appliques, feel, drape, comfort, outlook and many more.

Designers at the west naturally don’t have much latest feel and knowledge what is happening on the ground in the manufacturing world. As the supply chain is very fast and changing pattern every day, people close to the manufacturing can contribute ever more in design and development for fast fashion.

And so a new trend is very clear in apparel value chain is that designing is gradually shifting at the manufacturing places.

However the biggest reason for this shift is not only the increasing complexity on the products and its backend supply & manufacturing, rather it is the cost pressure. Fast fashion competition is putting pressure on every stage of the value chain and now the companies are looking for all options to reduce cost.

They are digging out not only in

Bangladesh Textile Today |

manufacturing stages but also in design and development process.

If the product development and designing remains at the manufacturer’s end, the brands enjoy multiple cost advantages.

These are: 1. A s designing requires huge investment and so if the manufacturers do this, it is great saving for the brands.

2. I f the brand chose design from manufacturer end, the learning curve and the development process get much shorter and costs gets down.

3. M anufacturing a product designed by an insider is always efficient and cheaper than that of an outsider.

4. I f the manufacturer builds on their ‘core competence’ and that matches with the taste and position of the brand, it brings a win-win situation. This is the synergy that can solve the biggest challenge for all parties in fast fashion; gaining ‘competitive advantage’.

Volume 11, Issue 06

And so this trend is bringing a great opportunity for the apparel manufacturers in Bangladesh and other similar countries to invest more in design and product development. This will not only increase profitability but also give more control and negotiation edges in the value chain. The fast fashion brands have to support this process for their need now.

So, manufacturing companies should invest rapidly in building design capacity and infrastructure.

Factory Tales section of this issue covers some outstanding success stories of investing in design and product development.

As designing requires great understanding on the market need, mostly this is being done in the zone close to the fast fashion market. The brands invested in design studio and product innovations mostly close to their selling points in the west.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Design and process innovations in Sterling Laundry Ltd. Md. Masudur Rahman The group is exporting to the USA, Canada and Europe with current production capacity of the over 6,00,000 dozens a year, specializing in pants, shorts, overalls, sweaters and much more for Men, Women, Boys and Girls.

They are producing garments for some of the world famous brands like H&M, C&A, INDITEX, BENETTON, ORSEY, WALMART etc.

Sterling Laundry Ltd

Figure 1: Saman Wasalthilaka (at right most), GM Sterling Laundry Ltd. and Mehedi Hasan (2nd from right), Assistant General Manager, Sterling Laundry Ltd., Founder President, BGWTF; with their R&D team.

With the emerging of denim jeans the denim washing industry in Bangladesh is in the uprising trend. More than 500 garments washing plant producing top quality products for the global brands. To promote innovation, invention, development in denim and denim washing industry Bangladesh Garments Washing Technologists Foundation (BGWTF) organized a competition on development of denim washing

“Quality Price and On Time Delivery” - setting this as the prime goal Sterling Group started its journey in 1984 with one apparel company and now it has made a remarkable progress in the global apparel and fashion world. The group now consists of seven sister concerns such as, Unicorn Sweaters Ltd., Sterling Creations Ltd., Sterling Apparels Ltd., Sterling Denims Ltd., Sterling Laundry Ltd., Sterling Styles Ltd., and Bando Design Ltd.

Stealing laundry started its journey 10 years back at Dhaka Aricha Road, Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka. The factory is H&M’s gold grading role model factory.

Currently its washing capacity is around 55 thousand pieces of denim and 45 thousand pieces of non-denim twill item. The washing unit equipped with modern and high-tech machines.

Washing unit has 11 front loading machines from TRIVENETA, 30 side-loading machines, eight sample machines and eight high tech dryer machines. It also using sustainable OZONE fading machine from Jenologia, nano-

and awarded four factories.

Among them Sterling Laundry Limited became the 1st runner up of the competition. Textile Today research team meet Mr. Mehedi Hasan, Assistant General Manager of Sterling Laundry Limited; Founder President of BGWTF; Mr. Saman Wasalthilaka, GM of Sterling Laundry and the R&D team who are involved with the development of the award winning product. This report revealed the story of product development process and Sterling Laundry’s best practices for the readers.

Sterling group

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 2: Front loading machines and dryers.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

eliminating the back staining. So the OZONE treatment allows a zero discharge process without water or chemicals and with a considerable reduction in the steps required to produce denim,” Mehedi Hasan explained.

Product development process

Figure 3: Ozone machine by Jenologia allows sustainable denim fading.

bubble technology machine from Tonello and leaser fading machine from Spanish brand Jenologia and Turkish brand GFK. “OZONE fading system takes air from the atmosphere and transforms it into ozone, thus disposal of indigo color results the bleaching effect to denim garments without chemicals.

However, it also effectively cleans the garment improving the whiteness of used areas and

Sterling Laundry’s R&D team brings stunning aesthetic appearance on their development.

“We added both dry and wet process on the item. In dry process we apply whiskering, scraping, grinding, tagging, side seam busting and tie effect. We applied enzyme wash, bleaching and PP spray for primary effect, further towel bleach wash enhanced the wash effect,” Abdul Latif, R&D Manager expressed the process of their developed item.

Woven fabric patch embedded with gum and hand stitch with colorful threads, 3D wrinkle enhanced the vintage style.

Special pattern developed by laser on denim patch fabric to bring more artistic effect.

Leather coating is applied on bottom hem and half of the back pocket. The item is very attractive to look at and hand feel is so smooth.

“The common practice of Bangladesh is to copy buyer’s model, but it will not help us to add more value on our products. It is high time to concentrate on own development. BGWTF inspiring the factories to bring innovation in design and development through this event,” Mr. Mehedi added.

The theme of the competition was May day. Designers tried to keep link with the concept in their submission.

Research and Innovation

Figure 4: Sterling Laundry Ltd.’s developed item that won second position in BGWTF design competition.

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Sterling laundry has built strong R&D team with 66 members in total. The laboratory is equipped with modern machines and creative technical experts.

“Innovation in design and development is our primary focus in R&D, our team is capable to create attractive design in sustainable way,” Mr. Mehedi said.

Compliance and sustainability The Management of the company is committed to maintain a safe and healthy workplace. The company accomplished most of the parameters set by Accord and Alliance. It also participated the Fair Wage Network survey, ensuring ethical values in the area of wage and compensation setting. For building health awareness amongst the worker and employee the company organizes Best Chemical Management Practice Training.

Sterling Denims Limited and Sterling Laundry Limited obtained ISO 14001:2015 and continually strive for environmental improvement through implementation of its policy and

Figure 5: Laser Machine by GFK creates vintage outlook without using chemicals or water

environmental management system. It jointly worked with PACT for reducing resource consumption, wastewater pollution and energy saving. It has 24/7 running 150 m3 bio chemical ETP plant and another 50 m3 is under construction. The company has a dedicated IE team who regularly measures the process efficiency and trying to minimize the facts of re-process for saving water, chemical and time.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

STWI awards four factories for their best practice on sustainability Desk Report Four factories, including HAMS Garments Ltd (HGL), have been awarded from Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI) for being the best performer in the Composite Factory category. HGL has reduced a significant amount of environmental impact and air emission by reducing water and energy consumption.

Charlotta Schlyter, Ambassador of Sweden and Katarina Veem, Director of Swedish Water House has handed over the certificate and the award to the four factories representatives. All winners have expressed their strong commitment toward eco-friendly production for environmental sustainability at the program.

The Engineering Resources International (ERI), the strategic partner of Stockholm International Water Institute (SIWI), organized the prestigious award-giving ceremony in Hotel Amari on 4 May 2018. They have been doing this program for three consecutive years (2015, 2016, and 2017).

25 wet processing factories from different location of Bangladesh participated in this program. The

top management of the participating factories, representative of different brands (H&M, HEMTX, ellos, ginatricaot, RNB Retail, and Brands), a representative from BGMEA, Bangladesh Bank (BB), SIDA, SIWI, technical persons from BUET, ERI was present among others at the program.

Figure: Charlotta Schlyter, Ambassador of Sweden and Katarina Veem, Director of Swedish Water House has handed over the certificate and the award to the four factories.

STWI 2017 awarded four factories Factory Name

Category

HAMS Garments Ltd.

Composite Garments

ACS Textiles Ltd.

Wet Processing Unit

Ayesha Clothing Company Ltd.

Ready Made Garments

Al-Muslim Accessories Ltd.

Accessories

In this program, Charlotta Schlyter has emphasized on adopting different sustainable measures and suggested all the textiles

manufacturers and brands for adopting best available technologies toward a sustainable environment, which is eco of the voice of Managing Director of HAMS Garmen ts Ltd. Shafiqur Rahman who is also the President of ITET has expressed satisfaction over the achievement and provided a guideline for further improvement in this area. He instructed his General Managers to search and adopt best available technologies to reduce water and energy consumption and air emission for sustainability.

Urmi Group and IDLC sign agreement Desk Report Issue Management signing agreement ceremony was held between Urmi Group and IDLC Finance Limited on May 3 this year.

Urmi Group is one of the leading knit composite industries in Bangladesh. Over the last three decades, by offering the best blend of quality, efficiency, and productivity to their valued customers, they have created several benchmarks and established milestones for the forthcoming generations. Urmi Group comprises Urmi Garments Ltd, Attires Manufacturing Co. Ltd., 48

Fakruddin Textile Mills Ltd, Dots & Marks, Poly Corr Packaging, UHM Ltd, Urmi Shipping Company Ltd. IDLC Finance Limited, formerly known as Industrial Development Leasing Company of Bangladesh Limited (IDLC) is a multi-product Non-Banking Financial Institution.

It offers financial services in the form of Small and Medium enterprise (SME) finance products, Supplier and Distributor finance, corporate finance, structured finance solutions, retail finance, Deposits and Treasury products.

Figure: CEO & Managing Director of IDLC Finance Limited Arif Khan and Managing Director of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Limited, a concern of Urmi Group, Asif Ashraf exchanging documents of an agreement as IDLC Investments inks IPO deal with Fakhruddin Textile Mills Limited while IDLC Investments Ltd Managing Director Md. Moniruzzaman was present.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Editorial

 There is no option other than

product diversification and automation to grow further…

Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid Managing Director, Fakir Fashion Ltd. (FFL)

Textile is a practical and professional industry whereby the end of the day production is the main issue. Most of the time it follows a ferial methodology but there are different approaches to be considered which could bring more production and revenue. Product and process development is an ongoing practice and should always be followed up with the analysis of tangible areas of improvement. The outcomes can be assessed in the enhancement of product quality, customer satisfaction, customer loyalty, increased productivity, employees’ skills development, efficiency and increased profit resulting in higher and faster return on investment.

There are always some exceptional people, who think out of the cage and do innovative things which always adds a new feather in their hat. Fakir Fashion Ltd. (FFL) Managing Director Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid, a young energetic industrialist, recently gave an interview with Textile Today team on process and product developments, automation, digitization, FFL design studio and his success story. Fakir Fashion Ltd. is a complete vertical setup of knit garments and 100% compliant factory. Here, fetching part of the conversation is uncovered for the readers.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s - E x c l u s i v e I n t e r v i e w

Textile Today: Fakir Fashion Ltd. came up from a different entity to a new entity, please share the challenging journey of Fakir Fashion and how it achieved the unique position in the industry within the short time phase?

Kamruzzaman Nahid: It (the factory) was ‘A House of Sunshine’ and we took over the company by purchasing 100% share in early 2009. It took 6-7 months to change the name from Sunshine to Fakir Fashion Ltd. due to bureaucratic complexity. We started our journey from 1st June 2009 locally, because we had to change all the license and started as Fakir Fashion Ltd. from 2010 and our first buyer was H&M. Now we are a gold rated factory of H&M. Initially, worker’s problem was acute for us since it was a very remote area, then we started bus pulling service and that was really challenging for us as a newborn company. That was a struggling start, now we have become a factory of 89 garments production lines from 14 lines, 30 tons dyeing capacity from 5 tons, we also expanded on knitting, printing & embroidery and garments washing plant. At the beginning our turnover was $0.7 million, now it is $100 million and it is happened just because of the dedicated and skilled management and workforce.

Textile Today: What are the process developments FFL have that are truly best practices in the industry?

Kamruzzaman Nahid: Every single day there are significant changes in this industry, buyers continuously trying to reduce the cost and yearly it reduces by about 5% from the previous year.

So, to survive this industry, it is regularly needed for cost-effective process and machinery. We use Greece originated SCLAVOS for water saving fabric dyeing. By using this two-thirds of water consumption could be saved, also liquor ratio, chemical consumption

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Figure 2: Classy ‘Design Studio’ of FFL.

and production time will be considerably less. We also use SedoMaster Software, which gives entire solution from the operator to the chief executive and allows us to manage recipes, processes, and reports at once. In garments production, now we count our capacity by ‘minute’, not in ‘piece’.

Also, we are selling ‘minute’ based capacity, not by piece to our buyers by which we can avoid the overcapacity problems. Preproduction capacity planning and central planning gives us more efficient production than before.

Textile Today: From which aspect FFL is different from others?

Kamruzzaman Nahid: Our design studio clearly gives us an inimitable and strong position in the industry. In addition, we work on active and functional wears development, which is really challenging. Mainly, now we are focusing on sports-wear developments and trying to catch the market more strongly.

Bangladesh mainly produces cotton products and that is why we are trying to do something that is out of the mainstream, as it will make us more sustainable in the market. New technology and machinery always give a new dimension in production efficiency and we give zero tolerance for that. Many prestigious buyers consider the machine set-up before putting their orders. So, vision is

very important for business, always you have to stay tuned for new technology and developments and that’s what we are.

Textile Today: Please share us about FFL design studio strategies, activities, and targets.

Kamruzzaman Nahid: We launched our design studio back in 2016 and then in 2017 we launched another one in the UK which gave us new dimension and strength in business. Here in Bangladesh, we have about 16 talented designers and in the UK, many international designers work with us who have working experience with internationally renowned brands.

Our designers are developing a bunch of products regularly by

In garments production, now we count our capacity by ‘minute’, not in ‘piece’. Also, we are selling ‘minute’ based capacity, not by piece to our buyers by which we can avoid the overcapacity problems.

Pre-production capacity planning and central planning gives us more efficient production than before.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s - E x c l u s i v e I n t e r v i e w

analyzing market demand and we sell the designs to buyers and get good premium since we have no competitor of the designs that give us an advantage in the price table with buyers. UK design studio makes the business more-easier as we are very near to the fashion market and buyers consider it as a friendly initiative for them. They can easily choose their desired design from there.

ZARA accept almost 90% design and style from us, H&M and other buyers day by day are also relying on us. We estimated about $0.95 million for three years as cost of the design studio.

“Our designers are developing a bunch of products regularly by analyzing market demand and we sell the designs to buyers and get good premium since we have no competitor of the designs that give us an advantage in the price table with buyers. UK design studio makes the business moreeasier as we are very near to the fashion market and buyers consider it as a friendly initiative for them.”

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Textile Today: Exactly what needs to do to take the Bangladesh textile industry to grow further from your angle of vision?

Kamruzzaman Nahid: There is no other option to give second thought other than product diversification, automation, digitization and previsions if we want to explore more in this industry. Industrialists should participate in international textile fairs, seminars, workshops etc. to get the new concept and ideas.

Moreover, the business itself is a tough journey and every moment you should search for a new horizon, opportunity and hope, don’t miss the single station of the journey.

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Manufaturing with Pride

‘Made in Bangladesh’ tag in the FIFA World Cup kits Textile Today Research The 21st edition of the FIFA World Cup is being held in 12 spectacular stadiums in 11 cities of Russia from 14 June 2018 where 32 world football nations is fighting for the title. It is considered as the biggest show on the earth, also more than billion USD will be transacted all around the globe and sports kits will cover most of it.

Bangladesh is not in the field of battle but there will be kits that have ‘Made in Bangladesh’ tags.

Bangladesh has exported about $100 million worth of goods at the 2018 World Cup football. Earlier, export was nearly $70 million in the 2014 World Cup. Not only jersey, Bangladesh is supplying various types of products including jackets, socks, shorts, national flags of participating countries etc. Meanwhile almost all the participating country revealed their kits for the coming FIFA World Cup. Sports kits sponsoring companies of the participant countries Adidas

Argentina, Belgium, Colombia, Egypt, Germany, Iran, Japan, Mexico, Morocco, Russia, Spain, Sweden

Nike

Australia, Brazil, Croatia, England, France, Nigeria, Poland, Portugal, Saudi Arabia, South Korea

Puma

Senegal, Serbia, Switzerland, Uruguay

New Balance

Costa Rica, Panama

Umbro

Peru

Hummel

Denmark

Errea

Iceland

Uhlsport

Tunisia

UK based popular tabloid newspaper ‘The Sun’ ranked the World Cup 2018 kits based on different criteria with the help of Vintagefootballshirts.com. The rank is given from the best to worstTable 1: Ranking of the countries based on World Cup 2018 kits RATING

Teams

9 OUT OF 10

Belgium, Spain, France

8 OUT OF 10

Germany, Denmark, Peru, Morocco, Japan, Iceland,

7 OUT OF 10

Uruguay, Switzerland, Sweden, Mexico, Colombia, Australia, Senegal

6 OUT OF 10

Russia, Brazil, England, Panama, Argentina

5 OUT OF 10

Croatia, Egypt

4 OUT OF 10

Costa Rica, Poland, Iran, Serbia, Saudi Arabia

3 OUT OF 10

Portugal, Tunisia

1 OUT OF 10

South Korea

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Three types of jerseys are being made in Bangladesh garment factories like player jerseys, fan jerseys, and country jerseys. Most of them are made for Brazil, Germany, France, Spain, Belgium, Italy, Argentina, and Portugal fans.

Abdus Salam Murshedi, President of Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) and Former President of BGMEA, said, “Although Bangladesh is not playing in the World Cup football, she is taking part in just one sense. Many of the gallery’s visitor’s jerseys, mufflers, flags, and other materials are made

by Bangladesh garment factories.”

According to the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), the garment exports from Bangladesh has increased 11.43 percent this year compared to the previous year on the occasion of football World Cup. Mansur Ahmed, Vice-President of BKMEA said, “The world-famous brands Adidas, Puma, Nike, G-Star, H&M and M&S produce sportswear from Bangladesh.

This year the jerseys for the players and fans of 32 countries participating in the World Cup have been made from this country also.”

Sportswear industry is the second fastest growing sector for brands. China, Latin America and Central and Eastern Europe are prime markets for the sector.

According to a research report published by Global Industry Analysts Inc., the global market for Sports and Fitness Clothing is projected to reach US$ 231.7 billion by 2024.

Although Bangladesh is the second largest garment exporter worldwide after China, it has a little contribution to the global sportswear market worth $270 billion. China and Vietnam are currently dominating the market. Bangladesh exports a few million jerseys during different occasions, although the country has greater potential in the sportswear segment for both fashion and sports functional wear, the government should take proper initiatives to promote this sportswear industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

One year of Multifabs’ boiler explosion Staff Correspondent Bangladesh textile & apparel industry has seen many ups and down through last few years.

When the country has almost come out from the debris of Rana Plaza collapse and started to build a strong safety reputation, a boiler explosion in Multifabs Ltd. reminded all to remain vigil and alert. The explosion took place last year 3rd July where 15 workers were killed. However, the good news is that Multifabs as a company has taken sincere initiatives eventually to make future safer learning from the incident.

Through last year Accord helped Multifabs to survive in the industry since they were 90% clear to Accord policies. From the inquiry of Textile Today Industry Research team, it’s known that each victim family got BDT 8 lacs as compensation from Multifabs.

Multifabs Ltd. went through many hardships in last one year and now they are again on the track. Dr. Mesba Faruqui, Director (Factory and Operation) of Multifabs Ltd. said, “Our management was fully concerned about the incident and we did the positive things whatever we had to do.”

“We have learned many things and now we are in regular production.

We also have revisited all our technical sites so that we could avoid such accident in future.

It is to mention that we had no managerial problem in that

54

Figure 1: Multifabs has worked hard to bring back confidence and strength in and out of the factory after the boiler explosion incident held on 3rd July 2017.

incident,” he added.

15 victim families getting many facilities like from this year the families are getting equivalent salary and bonuses as a worker get every month and it will be continued. Multifabs management assign a person to give updates on these victim families monthly, Mr. Mesba acknowledged.

15 victim families getting many facilities from this year like the families are getting equivalent salary and bonuses as a worker get every month and it will be continued. Multifabs management assigns a person to give updates on these victim families monthly, Mr. Mesba acknowledged.

Multifabs Ltd. is fully knit composite industry produce polo shirts, T-shirts, men & women tops, kids wear, intimate wear etc. located at Kashimpur, Nayapara, Gazipur. Now it’s concentrating on new technologies and processes to boost up the export figure.

Their valuable business partner is Lindex.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Te x t i l e I c o n

“

Fabric manufacturers have to appreciate local yarns to secure Bangladesh manmade yarn manufacturers…

Md. Monir Hossain, CIP, Managing Director of Fariha Group

Recently thirteen industrial units have received ‘President’s Award for Industrial Development 2016’ in six categories for their contribution to the economy. President M Abdul Hamid distributed the awards to the winners at Osmani Memorial Auditorium in Dhaka on 22nd May 2018. Fariha Spinning Mills Ltd. (FSML) from Narayanganj secured the first position in the large industry category.

Eventually Textile Today team met Md. Monir Hossain, CIP, Managing Director of Fariha Group to understand the reason the company got the award. The conversation also revealed many insights of Bangladesh spinning industry.

Textile Today: Recently FSML achieved the first position for the “President’s Award for Industrial Development 2016” in the large industry category, what is the story behind this achievement?

Md. Monir Hossain: First of all, this award not only depends on the size of the industry, the award means you are regular in

56

business and loyal to your country and people. There are many parameters set by the authority that you have to fulfill to get the award and we clearly did that.

Initially, the interested industries submitted an application for the award and then government evaluated them through a rigorous procedure. In every practical sense, we were confident to get

the award. Considered parameters were tax, vat, utility bill payment, the validity of legal documents, CSR activities, environment issues, the wage of workers, lead time, export-import policy, products quality, the vision of industry etc.

Finally, the judges’ panel declared the 1st, 2nd and 3rd position in view of the obtained numbers considering all the parameters.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

However, I think the award should be given to at least 10 factories because it will encourage the entrepreneurs and engage more industrialists. The award is the testimony for an industry that it is in the right track of growth.

Textile Today: What kind of updated value-adding technology and process do you have in your industry?

Md. Monir Hossain: Fariha Spinning Mills Ltd. has been playing pioneer role in the spinning industry from its beginning.

First, we brought the compact spinning process for knitting yarn in Bangladesh and our production and quality increased (22-25%) considerably. If we wanted to increase that efficiency by expansion, it would have been a quite expensive decision. But we overcome the situation with visionary mindset and technology.

Better quality products are giving us repeat orders from buyers.

About 5 years ago, we focused on value-added yarn (slub), which gave us about 40 cents more premium per kg than plain yarn and we are continuing the slub yarn production though it is getting common now. Besides that, we produce Inject yarn, Ciro yarn and successfully produce Mosaic yarn for the first time in Bangladesh, which is not much available even in China. Initially, we installed 2000 spindles for Mosaic yarn production and investment was USD 1, 60,000.

Textile Today: Man-made yarn market is still young in Bangladesh and fabric manufacturers are not often satisfied with the quality of locally produced MM yarn, they are sourcing these yarn from abroad. What to do to come out from this situation?

Md. Monir Hossain: Manmade yarn market is emerging now all over the world but Bangladesh is clearly one-step behind in this market. Our manufacturers are not focused on this market because

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1 Md. Monir Hossain, CIP, Managing Director of Fariha Group, receiving the faward from the President Md. Abdul Hamid.

“Whole value chain depends on some emergent issues like transport, port facilities, raw materials, export and import lead time, technology, utility availability etc. Generally, we give importance on price but buyers give more focus on lead time and quality.

Unfortunately, we cannot utilize our production capacity due to some unavoidable causes that are already mentioned.�

MM fabric manufacturing is a little bit challenging and complex as well. It is true that some spinners are producing manmade yarn but not obtaining required quality, this is happening because still we do not have enough skilled manpower, technology and sometimes there is a problem with the raw materials.

Therefore, if anyone wants to grab this market he/she must have to make up his mind to take on any challenge. Fabric manufacturers also have to appreciate the locally produced yarns to secure in the market. Bangladeshi apparel exporters will have less risk if they could use local yarns. We have a plan of a modern set-up

Volume 11, Issue 06

to produce highly value-added polyester fancy yarn for making curtain and other classy upholstery.

In 1980, we used rayon and viscose yarn to produce saree, which was a milestone for Bangladesh.

Textile Today: We have 50 billion USD export target for 2021. After 2021, definitely Bangladesh export target will be bigger. So, what should be the strategy of Bangladesh spinning industry to meet the demand as a backward linkage of fabric manufacturing industry?

Md. Monir Hossain: Whole value chain depends on some emergent issues like transport, port facilities, raw materials, export and import lead time, technology, utility availability etc. Generally, we give importance on price but buyers give more focus on lead time and quality. Unfortunately, we cannot utilize our production capacity due to some unavoidable causes that are already mentioned. If all these problems get solved within a short time phase, I think we will be able to fulfill any demand with our existing industry set-up though we need more expansion and concentrate on valueadded products. Yarn and fabric smuggling is another extensive problem in our prominent growth of the textile industry. The government needs to take care of this swiftly.

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T r a d i t i o n a l Te x t i l e s

Fifth Jamdani fair shows a new hope promoting the business of Jamdani products Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC) has organized fifth Jamdani fair at the National Museum in Dhaka, targeting the Eid-ul-Fitr festival.

Industries Minister Amir Hossain Amu inaugurated the 10-day exhibition as the chief guest on 29 May where State Minister for Textiles and Jute Mirza Azam was present as the special guest and BSCIC Chairman Mustak Hassan Md. Iftekhar presided over the function.

33 stores and 33 craftsmen from Rupganj, Narayanganj are exhibiting their Jamdani products with various designs and patterns.

The total budget of the fair was 600,000TK. The price of Jamdani saree at the fair is from Tk 3,000 to Tk 225,000, said BSCIC Deputy Manager Nasima Akter.

Most consumers are buying sarees

from Tk 10,000 to 15,000, said Rokeya Begum, Quality control officer of BSCIC. The price is comparatively reasonable at the fair, said a visitor. On the first day of the fair, sales were 174,000 TK and on 6 June, sales went up to 7,400,000 Tk. Nasima Akter of BSCIC said, “Their targeted sales will be 1 crore by the end of the fair.” According to a salesperson, the sales would go up. Nasima Akter said, “BSCIC will organize Jamdani Fair every year for Eid purpose and from next year we will extend the duration.”

Jamdani is a traditional clothing of the Bangladesh and it has been recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Bangladesh by the Department of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks (DPDT) by UNESCO in 2016.

The raw material of Jamdani is silk and cotton, it is purely silk or cotton or mix material. India is the most competitive producer of Jamdani for Bangladesh.

However, India mostly produces Jamdani by power loom and Bangladeshi weavers mostly use handlooms.

Rokeya Begum said, “Jamdani of India is little shiny so most the consumer thinks Indian Jamdani is better but quality and design of Jamdani in Bangladesh is better than India.”

She also said, “The quality of Jamdani can Figure 1: Rokeya Begum, Quality Control Officer of BSCIC be easily measured was showing how to measure the quality of a Jamdani.

58

Figure 2: Total making cost of the three sarees is over BDT 3 lacs and each saree took 3-4 months to weave.

by experience. If the design of Jamdani is forced and it loses some yarn from the cloth, then the quality of the Jamdani is not good.”

This year in Jamdani fair weavers displayed many types of Jamdani products like Shaplaphul, Angurlota, Moyurpachpar, Baghnoli, Korola, Dublajal, Saburga, Bolihar, Tersa, Jolpar, Pannahajar, Korola, Kolmilota, Chandrapar, and Jhumka. Weavers work weeks to months to weave a Jamdani saree. BSCIC pays the weavers in advance so that weavers can work with their suitable condition.

BSCIC Deputy Manager Nasima Akter said that Government is working for the betterment of Jamdani. She also informed that in near future they would take three steps to promote the products: 1. Suitable market plan to make the Jamdani exportable 2. 63 weavers will be certified in Narayanganj BSCIC. 3. An innovative brand or logo will be created for Bangladeshi Jamdani

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

“

Printing should be recognized as independent industry to fetch business opportunities...

Shah Imtiaz Ahsan, Assistant General Manager & Head of Production, DB Tex Ltd.

Printing is one of the most value adding and creative sectors in textile where more sophisticated technology and control is needed.

With the digital revolution the sector has become a game changer in textile manufacturing process and fashion. Technologies have helped a lot the designers to go for diversified and customized options. Digital printing in particular helps to change the fashion very fast. Smithers Pira forecasts say global digital printing market will be â‚Ź2.42 billion in 2021 with 17.5% annual growth. DB Tex Ltd. a sister concern of DBL Group is the pioneer of Bangladesh printing industry. After visiting and analyzing the company it could be said that DB Tex Ltd. is in the right track of growth and they set an example to the world in technology implementation, achieving quality and delivering

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

Quality and accuracy are the first priority in printing industry.

Once your quality fall down you will be out of business for sure.

Furthermore, fast service, understanding whole value chain, RFT, positive mindset about new technology and process adoption etc. are also very important factor that could keep you one step ahead from others.

capacity to top global brands. DB Tex Ltd. using the state-of-the-art technologies and their current capacity is 40 tons fabric printing per day which is incredible. The factory is one of the most modern and largest All Over Printing (AOP) factories in the region.

DB Tex Ltd. has screen, pigment, reactive, discharge, disperse, puff, rubber, gel, acid, glow in the dark, foil, sublimation, flock, digital and glitter printing facilities for knit fabric all over printing (AOP). Walmart and H&M are the taking largest capacities of DB Tex Ltd. Recently Textile Today Industry Research team visited DB Tex Ltd. and meet Shah Imtiaz, Assistant General Manager & Head of Production to bring out the technological success story which gives the industry new footprint.

59

P r i n t i n g To d a y

time in the world. EFI Reggiani often use DB Tex Ltd. as reference to others that also a great achievement for us. I think it’s a great revolution in printing world.

Textile Today: For printing factory success, how important is skilled manpower?

Figure 1: A snap of 20 head AOP printing machine at DB Tex Ltd. that has brought a great revolution in the printing world.

Textile Today: What are the technological and other best practices in DB Tex Ltd. you want to summarize, which already gives it international recognition?

Shah Imtiaz: To make the subsequent processes easier and fruitful, pre-production preparation is very important and should be perfect in printing sector. That’s why we have been using latest CO2 laser engraving system for last 10 years and we are the pioneer in this technology. We are the only industry who uses Swiss origin Syntronic machinery for AOP pre-production preparation.

20 colors machine for knit fabric AOP is unique technology and we are also pioneer in this technology not only in Bangladesh but also all over the world. Our competitors are Turkey, China and other countries and DB Tex Ltd. create this AOP market demand in Bangladesh by positive mindset and vision. So, RFT (Right First Time) is must in printing and it is one of the best practices of us which definitely distinguished us from others. We also have many CSR best practices and we are very careful to our workers. We have a common message from our top management that every worker will get any kind of assistance from DB Tex Ltd. and that’s why every employee own DB Tex Ltd. proudly.

Textile Today: ‘New technology means new opportunity’ how you illustrate this quote?

60

Shah Imtiaz: Whole textile industry is very compact and challenging now, profit margin is also very limited. It’s very difficult to survive in business by producing only plain products, so our management is very positive about latest technology and processes to grab every single possibility. Daily we are facing new problems and with our skilled workforce and modern technology, we are resolving the problems swiftly. DB Tex Ltd. and EFI Reggiani jointly brought 20 head AOP printing machine when others can’t even imagine this.

We have two 20 head machines, two 16 head and one 12 head AOP machines of different top level brands. We tried to keep same type machine because it enhance operators’ efficiency. We are expanding our printing section with latest technologies where auto dispensing will be available soon.

Textile Today: How DB Tex Ltd. got the 20 colors technology idea and become the global leader?

Please share us the success story…

Shah Imtiaz: Adopting 20 colors technology, you can say it as business risk or visionary mindset.

Because it was not that easy when DB Tex Ltd. is the only company in the world who first think and brought this technology. We shared our thoughts with many machine manufacturers and lastly EFI Reggiani agreed on our idea and finally we brought 20 colors machine for knit fabric AOP first

Shah Imtiaz: Actually skilled manpower ensure the optimum use of best technology and we also believe that. We highly maintain the congenial environment in our industry as workers could work in a full swing.

I have already mentioned that we have a common message about all staffs from top management which is the gamut of our success. We all the staffs and workers thrive for continuous improvement. Skill sets and motivation help us delivering best quality print products for globally leading brands.

Textile Today: What are the key factors you want to highlight for business growth in printing?

Shah Imtiaz: Quality and accuracy are the first priority in printing industry. Once your quality fall down you will be out of business for sure. Furthermore, fast service, understanding whole value chain, RFT, positive mindset about new technology and process adoption etc. are also very important factor that could keep you one step ahead from others. Another important thing is we should engage our young engineers more in this industry because they are positive, more capable and hard working. In fine, printing should be recognized as independent industry for more growth and business opportunities.

Figure 2: CO2 laser engraving system in DB Tex Ltd. ensures finest quality printing by assuring finest quality screens.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06



Bangladesh textile & apparel industries required to improve production methods with modern technology...

Giuseppe Zigrino Managing Director K+Z Corporation Ltd.

Kidd+Zigrino (K+Z) Corporation Ltd. was established in Great Britain in 1972. The company over the past 46 years, has developed various machinery for creating solutions for textile printing, dyeing, and finishing, with products ranging from color paste preparation equipment, rotary screens preparation equipment, garment printing tables, steam agers/polymerizers, and many other various types of ancillary equipment.

Recently Giuseppe Zigrino, Managing Director of K+Z Corporation Ltd. gave an interview with Textile Today where he explores many insights of the company along with many other aspects. Here is the glimpse of the discussion for the readers.

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Could you please share us briefly about KZ technology and its contribution to the textile and apparel industry?

Kidd+Zigrino (K+Z) Corporation Ltd. was originally established in Great Britain in 1972, whereby due to the 1970’s worldwide growth of textile production and with the increasing demand for new developments in textile machinery, some of the international textile machinery manufacturers were under great pressure to service their machines, and sometimes make necessary corrections/alterations to the operating systems of their new developments.

The Kidd+Zigrino company was thus initiated to offer their services

as a consultant engineering company, contracting their staff services to the established manufactures of machinery used for the processing of textile fabrics and carpets.

The gradual expansion of the Kidd+Zigrino company in the late 1970’s, led the company into the natural manufacturing of their own textile machinery/equipment developments.

During1980’s and 90’s with both Thailand and Indonesia gradually becoming the leading manufacturers of textiles in South East Asia, led the Kidd+Zigrino company into opening a branch in Thailand (K+Z Corporation Ltd.), where the engineers from Kidd+Zigrino, were to design

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

P r i n t i n g Te c h n o l o g y P r o v i d e r

the print plants and supply the machinery and equipment, including giving support to these companies in all their related technical issues.

rotary screen-printing machinery have actually become much more competitive with the introduction of improvements to these type of printing machineries.

How do you see the apparel value chain and recent changes?

The introduction of the ink jet printing process applicable for carpets in the 1970’s, which thereafter began to be applied for the printing of fabrics. Although the original ink jet printing process was more suitable for the printing of carpets, or for fabrics with high pile, it did initiate the innovations into today’s digital printing machines. The number of companies now manufacturing digital printing machines certainly does keep rising, and the future of these digital printing machines will actually be dependent if they are used for the correct application.

The original purpose of the digital printing machines were to transfer the system of printing “paper posters” to PVC, and/or PVC coated fabrics. However, the main advantages of these digital printing machines to print natural textile fabrics are as follows:

Throughout human history, textiles and garments have naturally taken on the role of the very first importance in the human presence. Mankind’s evolvement from the original use of wearing slain animal’s skin’s, to today’s highly decorative textiles with changeable designs is considered as a continuous transformation through up gradation of technology and human taste.

Following the 19th century political and social changes, which drastically affected many types of industries that were not able to adapt to the changes.

Many textile manufacturers began to realize that traditional textile production methods had become out of date to meet the actual demand, whereby various developments of machinery with high productivity began to be introduced for producing cotton fiber into yarn and then woven into fabric followed by dyeing, printing and finishing. During this period, textile-finishing products began to be in high demand, and the chemical industry was also reported to have developed different kind of synthetic dyes and chemicals. The early 1950’s, with the initiation of textile machinery exhibitions, the textile manufacturing companies began to take note in the many new type of developments which were being created by the different European engineering companies for improving the methods used for the production of textiles, and especially with the initial introduction of Knitted Fabrics.

What is the trend in printing right now?

In the past decade, the flat and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

industries are required to improve production methods with modern technology in order to survive in today’s very competitive textile garment market. K+Z products offer simple-to-use but innovative technology that is able to boost the operator experience and make operation more productive and safe. In addition, our technology enables the minimization of production cost through helping reduce manual labour and ensure reliability and quality.

What kinds of manufacturing facility do you provide?

Kidd+Zigrino has developed various machinery for creating solutions for textile printing, dyeing and finishing, with products ranging from color paste preparation equipment, rotary screens preparation equipment, garment printing tables, steam agers/polymerizes, in addition to the various types of ancillary equipment to improve the operation of printing textiles fabrics and carpets

a) T hey do not require any type of screens

As 46 years K+Z business, tell us about Bangladesh market?

b) O n average, a design can be prepared ready for printing within 3 to 4 days

The expansion of the Bangladesh textile manufacturing market is expected to continue in the late 2020, whereby the K+Z Corporation will keep assisting the Bangladesh Companies as they have done for the past 20 years, in arranging the necessary design layouts of the print plants,including the supply of their machinery/equipment as they have done for various number of companies in Bangladesh, to companies like M/s Apex Printing and Dyeing, M/s Consumer Knittex, M/s DBL, M/s Robintex, M/s Aswad Composite Mills, M/s Square Fashion, M/s Devine Fabrics, M/s Crony and far too many other printing companies to mention herein.

c) T hey can print any size of repeats, with exceptionally high definition Cost reduction is a great challenge for Bangladesh apparel industry, how K+Z technology can help in this?

Fast fashion is putting a lot of pressure on textiles and garment manufacturers to quickly produce a product in a cost-efficient manner. Retailers update their collection constantly to attract more buyers for their products.

Yet, the textile and clothing industry is labour intensive while the labour cost in Bangladesh keeps on rising. To overcome the situation the Bangladesh apparel

Volume 11, Issue 06

63

PPI Training on

Garment Printing Technology

Content: Various printing techniques.

Functionalities of printing chemicals.

Factors considering in material selection.

Date: 22nd , 23rd, 29th & 30th September ,2018

Methodology of Screen Printing.

Variety of Textile Screen Printing.

Pre-press details.

Advanced printing technology.

Details analysis of Water Base printing including fashionable effects.

Time: 09.00 AM – 5.00 PM

Plastisol printing & its effectiveness.

Solvent Base printing scope in Bangladesh.

Effects create with Silicone Printing agents.

Eligibility: Minimum graduate in any discipline interested in garment printing area.

H.S.C with minimum 2 years related practical/factory experience

Course fee: BDT 9,900/- (Nine thousand nine hundred taka only). ** TTH Alumni will get special discount. ** 2 or more participants from one organization will get 20% discount.

Who should attend?

Mentor’s Profile

Executives, Supervisors from textile printing industry & its related personnel who are eager to be more competitive in manufacturing and business.

Monirul Alam Sr. General Manager-Printing DYSIN-CHEM LTD. More than 18 years of experience in textile printing chemicals manufacturing & its application. He is pioneer to introduce Plastisol, Solvent Base, Silicone base printing chemicals successfully in Bangladesh.

Textile graduates who are interested to build up career in garment printing sector.

Executives from dyes, chemicals, machinery or advisory service providing organization of the garment printing industry.

Joi n t l y org a n i z e d by

Transforming Human Capital

P l e a s e b o o k y o u r s e a t h e r e : w w w. t r a i n i n g . t e x t i l e t o d a y. c o m . b d Contact M. 01734211085 E. training@textiletoday.com.bd

Venue DYSIN Conference Center & Printing Demonstration and Workshop in Mirpur, Dhaka-1000

Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e s - M a r k e t A n a l y s i s

Why Indian technical textiles industry growing rapidly The technical textile sector provides a new opportunity to the Indian textile industry to have long-term sustainable future Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz The technical textile sector is one of the most emerging and inventive industries of the world. It secures a fifth place in the world for being one of the sectors which have a high potential for growth in the textile industry.

India is expected to play a key role in shaping the future technical textiles market and it provides a new opportunity to the Indian textile industry to have long-term sustainable future. Despite achieving high growth rate, the per capita consumption of technical textiles in India is 1.7 per kg vis-a-vis 10-12 kg in developed countries.

Global technical textile market Global market size for technical textiles is estimated at US$ 145 billion in 2015 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4% and reach US$ 170 billion by 2020.

The demand for technical textiles will be driven by the rapid industrialization, robust growth in construction and infrastructure projects, increasing automobile production, and rising demand from the healthcare sector.

Global technical textile imports are dominated by the USA with a share of 17%. This is followed by China, Germany, and the UK with a share of 10%, 8%, and 4%, respectively. The rest of the world accounts for 40% share in the imports of technical textiles.

Emerging regions such as the Asia Pacific and Latin America are presumed to witness rapid growth in multiple segments of technical textiles.

Global technical textile market Global market size for technical textiles is estimated at US$ 145 billion in 2015 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4% and reach US$ 170 billion by 2020.

The demand for technical textiles will be driven by the rapid industrialization, robust growth in construction and infrastructure projects, increasing automobile production, and rising demand from the healthcare sector.

66

Figure 1: Indian has a bright future in technical textiles.

Global technical textile imports are dominated by the USA with a share of 17%. This is followed by China, Germany, and the UK with a share of 10%, 8%, and 4%, respectively. The rest of the world accounts for 40% share in the imports of technical textiles.

Emerging regions such as the Asia Pacific and Latin America are presumed to witness rapid growth in multiple segments of technical textiles.

17% 40%

10% 8%

4% 4% 3% 3%3% 4%4% USA Japan

China

Germany

Canada

Spain

UK

France

Netherlands

Mexico Others

Figure 2: Top import markets for technical textiles (2015), Source: Estimated based on data from UN Comtrade.

China is the largest exporter of technical textile products with a share of 24%. This is followed by USA, Germany, and Republic of Korea with a share of 10%, 9%, and 4% respectively.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

China USA Germany Rep. of Korea Italy Mexico

9%

France Japan Belgium

8% 3% 3% 3% 4% 4% 4% 4%

Packtech 43

Clothtech 8% Hometech 10%

Netherlands Others

Figure 3: Top exporters of technical textiles (2015), Source: Estimated based on data from UN Comtrade.

Indutech 10% Mobiltech 11% Figure 5: Segmentation of Indian technical textiles market (2015-16), Source: ICRA Baseline survey report.

The trend of Indian technical textile Indian technical textile market is expected to witness substantial growth from 2016 to 2024. The market comprises diverse applications and products based on functional requirements, end-user applications, and product features.

The technical textile market size is expected to reach INR 116217 crore till 2017-18, has grown from INR 65920 crores in 2012-13 at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 12%.

Packtech is the largest segment with 43% share of the market, followed by Mobiltech, Indutech, and home tech with a share of 11%, 10%, and 10% respectively.

and specialty fibers which are required in the manufacturing of advanced technical textile products.

Largest export markets include USA, UAE, Indonesia, China, and the UK. Indutech Packteck

6%

Hometech Meditech

11% 44%

Sportech Protech Agrotech

30%

Clothtech

Indutech, Packtech, and Hometech are the largest exported segments which have a combined share of around 85% of the total exports of technical textiles.

Higher focus on these commodity products is due to the fact that these products require low investments and there is an absence of the required technology Segments

Sportech 7%

1% 1%

30%

3% 2% 2%

22%

Agrotech 1 % Protech3% Oekotech Buildtech 4% 0.2 Meditech 4%

Geotech

Figure 6: Segment-wise share in total exports in India (2015-16), Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner.

10%

2012-

2013-

2014-

2015-

2017-

CAGR

13

14

15(P)

16(P)

18(P)

(%)

Agrotech

826

929

1043

1191

1614

13

Meditech

3321

3622

3950

4281

5142

9

Mobiltech

6607

7370

8221

9173

11433

12

4% 4%

Packtech

28020

31181

34698

38733

48318

11

3%

Sportech

4132

4645

5222

5877

7111

12

Buildtech

2514

2819

3162

3577

4587

12

Clothtech

4835

5357

5935

6591

8133

11

Hometech

6249

7119

8110

9274

12145

14

Protech

1988

2176

2382

2722

3139

11

Geotech

683

772

873

991

1275

13

Oekotech

120

132

145

160

193

10

Indutech

6625

7567

8642

9929

13127

14

Total

65920

73689

82383

92499

116217

12

Market Figure 4: Break-up of technical textiles market in India (in Rs. Crores), Source: ICRA Baseline survey report.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

USA

8%

71%

UAE Indonesia China UK Rest

Figure 7: Major markets for India (2015-16), Source: UN Comtrade.

Even though the sector is largely dominated by Europe and China, there is huge potential for India to emerge as a global manufacturing hub for technical textiles in the near future.

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Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e s - M a r k e t A n a l y s i s

India’s advantage in growing as a global manufacturing hub: i) Abundant availability of textile raw material. ii) Technical textiles being labor-intensive industry, the presence of a large pool of labor at a comparatively low cost in India vis-à-vis other technical textile producing countries like China, US, EU etc. provides India a competitive standing. iii) P ower costs in India is lower than countries like China & Germany and comparable to low-cost destinations like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Myanmar, Kenya etc. The lending rates in India are on the higher side as compared to China and Vietnam but with special Government support available for the sector, the effective cost of capital becomes comparable. iv) Infrastructural for technical textiles in India is also developing with increasing investment in R&D, testing and investor facilitation through Centre of Excellence. Besides several textile parks have been established with good infrastructure for attracting investments. v) Support from central and state governments in form of textile parks, research centers, international collaboration with foreign institutes and laboratories, training facilities etc. is also playing a significant role in the sector’s progress.

On the basis of the historic growth trends, end-use segment growth, it is projected that the technical textile market will grow from US$ 12 billion in 201516 to US$ 22 billion by 2020-21 at a CAGR of 12%.

Segment wise expected growth rate is indicated in the table below: Segments

2015-16 US$ (in Billion)

CAGR (in %)

2020-21 US$ (in Billion)

Agrotech

0.1

11%

0.2

Meditech

0.5

9

0.8

Mobiltech

1.3

12

2.3

Packtech

5.1

11

8.4

Sportech

0.8

12

1.5

Buildtech

0.5

13

1

Clothtech

0.9

11

1.6

Hometech

1.2

14

2.4

Protech

0.4

10

0.6

Geotech

0.03

8

0.05

Oekotech

0.02

10

0.04

Indutech

1.2

14

2.4

Total

12

12

22

Steps should be taken for further growth The government of India has launched various support schemes for textile and apparel manufacturers to make them globally competitive.

The schemes target technology up-gradation, infrastructure development, export promotion etc.

Various State Governments have also announced their textile policies aimed at attracting investments in their states.

India is yet to exploit its full potential in the technical textile sector due to various concerns like the absence of regulatory measures for technical textile usage in infrastructure, construction etc.; dependence on import for technology and machinery; limited production of high-end products and specialized yarns and intricate duty structures.

Several measures need to be undertaken and prioritized to facilitate the growth of the overall technical textile industry in India and help in the growth of India as a global manufacturing hub. Some of these measures include establishing regulatory norms for mandatory usage of technical textile items in specific industries to increase their consumption, developing exclusive HSN codes for identifying high growth products for further development, establishing and implementing Indian standards for developing high quality products of global acceptance, improvement of operational standards, focus on training and education and creating end user awareness for increasing domestic demand for high end technical textile products.

Besides the above measures, few specific measures need to be undertaken for developing India as a global manufacturing hub including measures to attract investments from domestic and global players, forming partnerships with global players for acquiring technical know-how, the creation of mega parks to attract large-scale investments and focus on R&D initiatives.

Conclusion India is poised for growth in technical textile consumption along with overall growth of the economy and modernization of the country. India’s manufacturing competitiveness is also improving and the technical textile manufacturing industry needs to further gear up for tapping the huge domestic and global opportunities. With the appropriate measures, the industry has potential to emerge as a global hub for technical textile manufacturing in the coming years.

Figure 8: Projected Growth Rate of Indian Technical Textile Market, Source: Wazir Analysis.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

News & Analysis

Archroma reveals aniline-free denim indigo dye Desk Report A renowned name in color and specialty chemicals, Archroma showcased its ‘aniline-free’ denim indigo dye at the recently held Planet Textiles 2018 Conference in Vancouver, Canada. The brand new dye provides a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, said a press release.

According to the release, currently, aniline impurities are an unavoidable element of producing indigo-dyed denim. Unlike other chemical impurities, aniline is locked into the indigo pigment during the dyeing process and therefore cannot be washed off the fabric.

Scientific testing has shown that aniline impurities are toxic to humans, causing skin allergies, damage to major organs and genetic defects, as well as being linked to cancer. Aniline is also

toxic to aquatic life, which is an issue as two-thirds of the 400 metric tons of aniline waste on an annual basis ends up in the environment as wastewater discharge. The toxic chemical is, therefore, starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands like Levi Strauss, Burberry, and H&M. Quoting Alexander Wessels, CEO, Archroma, the release said, “We have tested denim

garments and found that aniline concentrations are frequently higher than expected. This could put some manufacturers over the limits agreed on their RSLs. At Archroma, we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. By removing a hazardous impurity from the denim supply chain, we aim to protect the workers who create denim, the consumers who wear denim, and the environment with cleaner waterways.”

“Thus, after working with their R&D experts, the company found an aniline-free alternative – Denisol Pure Indigo 30, which it claims to be the ‘most-sustainable’ way possible at present”, he added.

Further, the latest innovation by Archroma consumes 90% less water at the time of dyeing.

Govt. to form Tk. 10,000cr fund for jute sector development Desk Report The jute ministry is pursuing a policy to form a Tk. 10,000 crore fund to provide low-cost loans for the development of the nearly $1 billion export earning jute sector.

Bangladesh is one of the best jute-producing countries across the world, however, there are difficulties in running state-owned jute mills although the private sector ones are doing well and making profits. Exports of jute items developed by privatelyowned jute mills are on the rise.

On the other hand, the publicly run ones are incurring losses.

Md. Mahmudul Hassan, Chairman of Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC), proposed, “The government will form a 20-year revolving fund based on the budgetary allocation to provide loans to farmers, traders,

Bangladesh Textile Today |

a license for jute and jute goods business will be eligible for getting loans from the fund. Bangladesh Bank would be assigned to manage the fund, to where banks would also enjoy access under refinancing arrangement.

Figure: Workers are harvesting the golden fiber, Jute.

industrialists, diversified goods producers, and exporters.”

The loans will be disbursed at 5 percent interest and half of the interest payments would come from the state coffer as a subsidy, according to the recommendations.

According to the draft, “Loan defaulters will not be eligible for applying for loans from the fund.”

Except for farmers, none without

Volume 11, Issue 06

BJMC chairman expected that the draft policy targets providing the ailing jute sector opportunities similar to what garment and leather goods industries enjoy.

According to data by Bangladesh Jute Spinners Association (BJSA), “In Bangladesh, around 2 lakh people work in 176 public and private mills, which process twothirds of the country’s annual jute production of 14 lakh tones.”

“Of it, 8.36 lakh tones are exported and the rest consumed locally,” according to the BJSA.

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Te x t i l e p e o p l e

Te x t i l e W o r l d

BD engineer Dr. Nazmul Karim wins fund to commercialize graphene e-textiles Desk Report

Desk Report

Bangladeshi engineer Dr. Nazmul Karim, a Knowledge Exchange Fellow at the National Graphene Institute, the University of Manchester has been awarded £35,000 from the Innovate UK Innovation to Commercialization University Research (ICURe) fund to validate commercial potentialities of graphene textiles research.

The graphene-based technology developed at the University of Manchester lab is able to produce very high volumes of graphene textiles at high speed using existing textile process and machinery.

Moreover, the graphene textiles made using the technology are multifunctional. Therefore it has the potential to be used in various applications such as medical, sportswear, fitness, space suits, military, and fashion garments.

The graphene-based e-textiles technology could be used to make the world’s first patient warming garment, which would be as flexible and comfortable as our daily clothing and revolutionize patient care in hospitals.

Graphene is the world’s first twodimensional material, an atom is a million times thinner than the diameter of a single human hair.

It has some amazing properties, it is fantastically strong, very light, extremely flexible, and highly transparent and it conducts electricity and heat better than almost any other material.

Dr. Nazmul Karim said, “I am extremely delighted and consider myself very fortunate to be part of Innovate UK ICURe program. It is a great opportunity to put fulltime focused efforts on exploring the commercial potentialities of our graphene textiles research. I look forward to meeting industry

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Global apparel giants to raise orders from Turkey Many global apparel buyers, including Hermes Otto, Newlook, Colveta, Near East Manufacturing and Varnern, announced that they would increase their orders from Turkey by about 20 percent.

Figure: Dr. Nazmul Karim wins an award to commercialize graphene e-textiles.

experts around the world in next three months to validate the commercial importance of our research.”

Dr. Nazmul completed his B.Sc. in Textile Technology from Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex), Dhaka. He also achieved M.Sc. in Textile Science and Technology from the University of Manchester and achieved a Ph.D. and Post-doctoral from the same university. He is also an honorary Technical Editor of Bangladesh Textile Today.

“Our vision at Graphene@ Manchester is to build a thriving knowledge-based economy with the aim to take graphene out of the lab to real-world applications.

Projects such as these are key in the development of graphene and 2D materials,” Said James Baker, Graphene@Manchester CEO. Graphene@Manchester is an ongoing program of activity to ensure that Manchester and the UK play a leading international role in developing graphene and 2D materials. The National Graphene Institute together with the Graphene Engineering Innovation Centre(due to open later this year) aims to create a critical mass of expertise made up of scientists, manufacturers, engineers, innovators, investors, and industrialists to build a thriving knowledge-based economy.

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“Apparel exports of $17 billion would increase to $18 billion this year and would reach around $25 billion in five years,” TGSD Chairman, HadiKarasu, said it in a meeting.

Figure: Turkey sees a huge increase in orders from global apparel giants.

According to a report in a Turkish daily, Karasu and top domestic textile sector players stressed the importance of environment-friendly and quality products to make the rise in demand sustainable.

Country manager Hayrettin Uysal of Colveta, which every year purchases $46 million worth products from Turkey, said the company plans to raise that figure to $75 million within five years.

He said, “Turkey’s current share of their total purchases is 30 percent, stressing that they plan to increase this to 50 percent.”

“It is important for Turkey to increase production speed and quality in this process,” he added.

Hermes Otto aimed to increase purchases from Turkey to over $115 million in 2018, a 7 percent growth.

It was reported that Verner, one of the major buyers, would increase its apparel order from Turkey, currently $63 million, by 5 to 10 percent this year. Near East Manufacturing, on the other hand, is ready to increase its $100 million order by 10 percent.

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‘Youths should focus on research, innovation and creativity’ Desk Report “Heading to the future with strong fraternity” holding this slogan BTEC Milonmela-2018 (get together) and Voice of BTECian, a knowledge sharing program held in Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College (BTEC) on 14 April with all its previous and current students. Textile Today was the official media partner of the program.

Engr. Md. Abdul Mozid, Principal of BTEC inaugurated the program.

Saiful Islam, Lecturer of BTEC delivered his welcome speech while Tanjir Hossen Liton, Nurista Parvin, and Mohammad Kutub hosted the program. Besides, Kabir Hossen Patwary, Assistant Professor; ASM Junaid Hasan, Lecturer; Selim Mia, Lecturer; Mahmudul Haque, Chief Instructor and other former and current students of different batches spoke.

Earlier, a prayer was done for the peace of the departed souls of BTEC’s students and a slide show was displayed. In addition, to increase the networking in BTEC students, Abu Hayat Palash, current 8th batch student, and top-rated freelancer launched a community-based website named ‘btecians.info‘ talked about various technical issues of the site.

Engr. Md. Abdul Mozid said in his speech, “Textile engineers of the country have played a significant role to reach Bangladesh’s status in developing countries list. To keep pace in the textile sector, the contribution of BTEC is undeniable over a decade.”

“Youth has to go through research, innovation, and creativity. All of

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Figure 1: Distinguished guests were present in the program.

you can take support from our rich laboratories,” he added.

Jobaire Hossain, Sr. Business Analyst of Liz Fashion Industry Ltd., said, “Get-together is a platform to reconnect with old friends and forge new memories.”

Mentioning youth he said, “You must emphasize on learning technology.”

Md. Shofiul Alam, Director of Optimized Color Chem Ltd., delivered a highly informative speech to the young generations based on his practical knowledge and experience. He said, “It doesn’t matter what department you get in the textile institution.

The important matter is what you have learned. University level is a gateway to knowledge. Let yourself float in knowledge here and do practical work with basic.”

Md. Firoz Al Mamun, Managing Director of Color Star Chem Ltd. said, “You do not have to change the world. Make a better change in yourself, in your mindset, in your philosophy. Be honest, wherever you are.”

Besides Md. Maidul Islam, Executive (Marketing) of DysinChem Ltd.; Md. Abdul Haque Akanda (Apel), Senior Fabric Technician (Team Leader) of Hermes-Otto International Ltd. (Bangladesh Liaison Office); Nurruddin Ahmed, Production Officer of Ha-Meem Denim Ltd.; Md. Nazmul Haque, Lab Executive of Columbia Washing Plant Ltd. (M&J Group); Awalin Ahsan Ashik, Lab Technician of ID KIDS (Bangladesh Liason office); Habibur Rahman, Process Engineer (Dyeing) of Dignity Textile Ltd.; Sibli Shadik, Junior Merchandiser of Kwun Tong Apparels Ltd. including many entrepreneurs and enthusiasts of this generation gave speech in the 1st session.

After lunch, the desired 2nd session “Voice of BTECian” was started. The main theme of this session was “Our knowledge is our voice, our voice is our power.”

In this session, Jobholders who passed from BTEC earlier shared their life stories from their student life to professional life.

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According to Akmal Hossain, Quality Controller of H&M, shared, “H&M is a dream to me. However, entering into H&M was like a war for me. After giving five times viva, I have been selected here.”

Md. Abdul Haque Akanda (Apel), Senior Fabric Technician (Team Leader) of Hermes-Otto International Ltd. (Bangladesh Liaison Office) said, “Currently buyers are focusing heavily on sustainability. It is a major burning issue now. In the context of the country, the material disposing system of the industry is comparatively poor.”

Figure 2: A part of the students participated in the program.

“To maximize business, maximum authorities have taken many ETP concerned persons and textile engineers. Therefore, considering

the needs of the era, fresher’s may have a good opportunity in the field of chemical management and ETP sector.”

57th Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress to be held from 12 September Desk Report The 57th Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (Dornbirn-GFC), the European-led innovation platform for the fiber industry, will be held in Austria from September 12 to 14, 2018.

Dornbirn-GFC, an innovative platform for the fiber, textile, nonwovens, equipment, and mechanical engineering industry, is a major player as an idea and network generator.

Dornbirn-GFC will focus over 100 lectures like fiber innovations, transportation and mobility, recycling – circular economy, energy generation and energy storage, surface modification, and additive technologies.

More than 700 participants from over 30 nations will take advantage of the Dornbirn-GFC in order to learn about the latest innovations of the fiber industry and its downstream stages.

Sebastian Kurz, the Austrian Federal Chancellor will give his presentation via a video transmission.

James Holbery, from Microsoft US, will discuss the issue of “How will

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Smart Textiles change the world and what does Microsoft expect from industry?”

Edwin Keh, CEO from the internationally renowned Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel HKRITA will give a lecture on ‘Circular Economy’ and also participate at the subsequent panel discussion.

A panel discussion will also take place titled ‘Circular Economy – What an Opportunity!’ moderated

by Anton Schumann/ Gherzi.

The participants Eberhard Brack/MärkischeFaser, Peter Bartsch/Lenzing, Michel Chtepa/ Seaqual4U, Yogendra Dandapure/ Lululemon, Edwin Keh/ HKRITA, Luis Marinheiro/ISWA (International Solid and Waste Association) will show approaches to the current topic which is strongly promoted by the EU Commission.

The successful “Young Scientist Forum” will also be performed for the third time. The workshop will take place on 11 September 2018, under the leadership

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Figure: 57th Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (DORNBIRN-GFC) to be held in Austria from September 12 to 14, 2018.

of the industrial consultancy SYNGROUP (AUT) on the issue of “Open Innovation and its relevant challenges”.

The renowned sponsors of last years congress will again contribute to the success of the event in 2018 and they areADVANSA (GER), AVANTEX/ Messe Frankfurt France (FRA), Techtextil/Messe Frankfurt (GER), CHT Beitlich (GER), CIRFS (BEL), Dralon (GER), Ecoplus. Niederösterreichs Wirtschaftsagentur GmbH (AUT), EDANA (BEL), Fisipe (POR), Gherzi Textil Organisation (SUI), Lenzing AG (AUT), Smart Textiles Plattform (AUT), Stadt Dornbirn (AUT), SYNGROUP (AUT) and many more.

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SHIMA SEIKI PRODUCT LINE EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS WITH FLEXIBLE WHOLEGARMENT PRODUCTION The new "SWG-N2" series is SHIMA SEIKI’s compact class of WHOLEGARMENT knitting machines. This machine features the renowned SlideNeedle on 10-, 16-, 24- and 36-inch wide needlebeds respectively, SWG021N2, SWG041N2, SWG061N2 and SWG091N2.

These models are capable of producing a range of fashion accessories from gloves, socks, hats, mufflers, neck-ties and other small items, as well as childrenswear and even leggings and tank tops, all in their entirety, without any linking or sewing in most of the cases.

The new SWG-N2 series is equipped with SHIMA SEIKI's proven R2CARRIAGE (R2=Rapid Response) System. Advanced carriage mechanism combined with improved software programming achieves quicker carriage returns after each course, resulting in higher productivity. In its pursuit of ideal WHOLEGARMENT production, SHIMA SEIKI has reinvented the most basic element of knitting-the needle. The new SlideNeedle is the result of a thorough re-evaluation of the 150-year-old design of the conventional latch needle. A flexible two-piece slider mechanism replaces the conventional latch mechanism and offers possibilities in both knitting and transfer never imagined before. A 5-gauge version of SHIMA SEIKI’s SWG-N2 series compact WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine can knit gloves using thick yarns as well as coarse gauge texture for heavy-duty application. The SWG series also have unique features like Top Tension and Elastic Yarn Feeder Device, Edge Yarn Insertion, Spring-Type Sinker System, Air Splicer (Optional), i-DSCS+DTC (optional), and Auto Yarn Carrier. Auto yarn carriers are motorized and move independently, eliminating the need for extra carriage courses to move carriers out of the way during intarsia knitting, which dramatically improves productivity and efficiency. A larger number of yarn carriers and holding hooks for yarn cutting, as well as a separate yarn holder with increased capacity allows for even more flexibility in multi-color knitting. In addition to their established reputation in the fashion industry, the SWG-N2 series is also capable of producing technical textiles, such as industrial material, sports, health and safety, expanding your business potential far beyond present limits.

In Bangladesh: PACIFIC ASSOCIATES LTD. House No.14, Road-113, Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212 Tel: 8802-8822184 E-Mail: info@pacificalbd.com In Japan: SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. 85 Sakata Wakayama Japan 641-8511 www.shimaseiki.co.jp

WHOLEGARMENT Capability with Speed and Versatility

SHIMA SEIKI's MACH2S is an extremely flexible machine which realizes quality knitting in a range of production styles. As a conventional shaping machine, it is capable of all-needle knitting in its available range of 8 to 16 gauge, while WHOLEGARMENT knitwear can be produced in half-gauge fabrics. As the name “MACH� suggests, the MACH2S sets itself apart with its speed and productivity. It achieves an impressive maximum knitting speed of 1.6 meters per second (12 to 16 gauge only). Furthermore, this machine adopts the new R2CARRIAGE system, permitting quicker carriage returns for greater efficiency and shorter knitting times. For versatility, MACH2S is even capable of gaugeless knitting, and a number of different gauges can be knit into a single garment. MACH2S is capable of performing WHOLEGARMENT production allowing an entire garment to be produced on the knitting machine without any linking or sewing in most of the cases. Aside from the cost-savings associated with eliminating post-knit processes, WHOLEGARMENT reduces production time and offers on-demand support of new and repeat orders, consistent quality control and elimination of cut-loss and other material waste. WHOLEGARMENT products appeal to consumers because of their soft, lightweight comfort and fit brought about by the elimination of annoying seams. The R2CARRIAGE (R2=Rapid Response) System of MACH2S provides an advanced carriage mechanism combined with improved software programming that achieves quicker carriage returns after each course. With a compact, lightweight carriage, less space is required for the carriage to make returns, allowing more area for the carriage to run at full speed. This allows faster knitting per course, resulting in higher productivity.

MACH2S machines also have important features like i-DSCS (Digital Stitch Control System "with Intelligence"), V-bed machine with special twin-needle, Air Splicer (optional), and special feature like Second Stitch Control which allows loose tight stitches for shaping. Loose and tight stitches can be controlled for each individual needle, allowing instantaneous changes when needed. This machine also has additional features like a new control unit that is built-in to the machine for simplified shipping and installation, easier maintenance, and more efficient use of space. A USB memory interface and a backup power supply are standard. The new machines also feature a lower overall height for improved access to top tension units. The great flexibility of MACH2S makes it the perfect choice for adopting WHOLEGARMENT production while maintaining flexible support of varying market demands.

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Researchers develop color-changing fabric controlled by smartphone Desk Report Researchers of the University of Central Florida (UCF) have developed the first color-changing fabric that can be controlled with a smartphone, said a news release.

Professor Ayman Abouraddy and his team at CREOL, The College of Optics and Photonics, have developed a series of prototypes that includes purses and backpacks. The products change color and pattern using an app or with the click of a built-in button.

“Although clothing has been a staple of the human experience for millennia, the basic structure and functionality of textile fibers and yarns have remained unchanged throughout history,” Dr. Ayman Abouraddy, Professor of Optics and Photonics at UCF, said in a news release.

He questioned that “The capabilities of electronics constantly increase and we always expect more from our iPhones,

special pigments in the thread to change color.

Figure 1: UCF scientists have developed the first color-changing fabric controlled by a smartphone.

so why haven’t textiles been updated? Can we expect an everexpanding range of functionalities from our clothing?”

This, he said, was the basis for the development of the new technology, which he described as “the next groundbreaking innovation in fashion and textiles.”

The technology relies on metal micro-wires embedded in each individual thread and a rechargeable battery pack. When activated, an electric current flows through the wires, slightly raising their temperature and causing

The team is focused on developing thinner fabrics that would be soft enough for use in t-shirts and other garments. And they’re trying to determine the appropriate balance of size and power for their battery packs.

In the near future, the researchers hope responsive fabrics can have wide-ranging applications beyond fashion. They see potential safety, medical and even military uses for fabrics that could change color, temperature or stiffness in response to a variety of stimuli.

Figure 2: Different types of yarns to make color-changing fabrics.

Sears to close more 72 non-profitable stores Desk Report Sears Holdings Corp., which controls Sears and Kmart, says on May 31 that, “It has identified approximately 100 non-profitable stores, 72 of which will begin closing sales in the near future,” in the latest sign of the retailer’s struggles to stay afloat.

Sears and Kmart operated 894 stores at the end of the first quarter, 381 fewer than it did a year ago. In January 2018, the embattled company announced the shuttering of 64 Kmart stores and 39 Sears stores, adding to the hundreds of closures that have taken place over the past few years. Some locations are currently being auctioned off online.

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Sears Holding announced the closures in its quarterly results released on May 31, in which it reported total revenues of approximately $2.9 billion — down from $4.2 billion in the same quarter a year ago.

Two weeks ago, the company announced they would be closing 40 stores in 24 states, and before that, they said 166 stores would be closing in 2018. So at this point, 275 stores could be set to close this year.

The closings come as the company deals with sluggish sales. Overall revenue fell 31% in the last three months, though most of that was because of closed stores, even still,

Figure: Sears has identified 100 unprofitable locations in total that it plans to close over time.

sales slumped by 12% in the stores that stayed open.

The Wall Street Journal reported that Sears is considering selling off its Kenmore appliance brand, as well as other units of its business.

Last year, it sold the Craftsman brand to Stanley Black & Decker.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Scientists found solution to fabric pilling Desk Report Fabric pilling is the formation of small, fuzzy balls on the surface of a fabric. It detracts from the appearance of the fabric, making it look old and worn, and it is often difficult to restore a garment with fabric pilling to its original condition.

However, a new textile treatment developed by textile innovators at HeiQ with help from researchers from Deakin University’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) to minimize unsightly “abrasion or pilling”, which decrease a garment’s longevity.

Figure 2: IFM’s Dr. Amol Patil and Dr. Marzieh Parhizkar apply the treatment solution to a fabric sample.

Figure 1: Knit fabric pilling, may soon be a thing of the past.

IFM senior research fellow Dr. Alessandra Sutti said, “Pilling was caused by friction, as loose fibers in the material rub together and become tangled, forming annoying fuzzy balls.”

“The key to avoiding pilling is to either remove fluffy fibers or to stabilize the fabric structure so fibers can’t easily loosen and tangle,” she added.

HeiQ’s “no fuzz” technology bridges the gaps and strengthens loose fibers with adhesive polymer structures, reinforcing fabric yarns and resulting in a significant improvement against pilling.

HeiQ Australia Chief Executive Dr. Murray Height, Co-founder of HeiQ Materials AG, said,“Pilling and abrasion resistance, in general, was one of the biggest problems affecting clothing, especially when it came to staple fiber textiles such as wool and natural/synthetic blends.”

“The need for an off-the-shelf treatment that can be applied to any fabric without noticeable impact on its feel or appearance has been discussed since the early days of the IFM/HeiQ partnership,” Dr. Height said.

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He also noticed that “The textiles industry has tried to deal with this issue for years, but none of the current methods are entirely satisfactory – most fabric-based treatments result in an unpleasant feel to the fabric and reduced comfort.”

Dr. Sutti said, “The HeiQ’s ‘no fuzz’ treatment helped to make clothing more robust to wear and tear, thereby playing a role in extending the useful lifetime of garments.”

This treatment can be used on all fiber types, but it has been shown to be particularly effective on spun yarns and natural/synthetic blends, and they are using materials that reinforce component yarns within the main fabric structure.

No Fuzz is the second commercial product to come out of IFM’s collaboration with HeiQ, following the 2016 release of the HeiQ Real Silk textile treatment.

Dr. Sutti and her team were committed to working with HeiQ on a range of projects to improve the performance and sustainability of textiles.

“Our collaboration covers a wide range of topics, from the development of the short polymer fiber platform all the way through to the implementation of new technologies in textile treatments,” she added.

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SDC EC highlights fashion towards a circular economy Desk Report SDC EC 13th international conference has effectively organized the 13th international conference on ‘Innovations in Textile Technology and Fashion towards a Circular Economy’, on 6 June 2018 in Mumbai.

Dr. Graham Clayton, CEO, SDC UK shared his view and plan for ‘SDC–Global Vision’ at the conference. The SDC has now moved onto a concept of an online virtual learning environment by conducting online courses which contain updated ASDC module material. The format of this is very much designed to meet the needs of today’s learners with mobile and 24/7 access, containing manageable material to enable students to ‘earn and learn’.

SDC EC said in a press release, “The textile industry is struggling to reduce its footprint and one of the promising pathways to this is to embrace the concept of the ‘Circular Economy’. The technology and fashion segments of the textile supply chain can benefit immensely if they work in tandem with each other.”

Figure: The SDC EC has successfully organized the 13th international conference on ‘Innovations in Textile Technology and Fashion towards a Circular Economy’, in June 2018 at Hotel Sahara Star, in Mumbai.

“The textile industry is struggling to reduce its footprint and one of the promising pathways to this is to embrace the concept of the ‘Circular Economy’.

The technology and fashion segments of the textile supply chain can benefit immensely if they work in tandem with each other.”

The conference was focused on dyes and chemicals compliance, sustainable business strategies and ideas to support the textile computation industry. A technical presentation on the circular economy – Innovations in design and supply chain management was given by Felix A. K Pinto, Sales Director, South Asia, South East Asia & ANZ, X Rite India Pvt. Ltd.

mentioned the challenges in the production process and total appearance capture system that consist of camera that can scan the object from every angle helps in visualizing the product.

Highlighting the importance of color and helping the brands in selecting the right color he

He introduced the Pantone cloudits tools and concept of 3-D object making that can reduce the cycle

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of prototype and sampling in the garment industry that can help in reducing waste. “Sustainable production 3-D object making can help in reducing the steps of making prototypes and wastage of resources,” he concluded.

Manish Mandhana, Joint Managing Director, Mandhana Industries Ltd., talked about the harmful impact of garment manufacturing and discharge of effluents in the environment. He emphasized on waste management, audits, unions, committees, safe working environment, and facilities to workers in industries.

Based on the theme ‘Innovations in Textile Technology and Fashion towards a Circular Economy’, the conference also hosted various programs like seminars, presentations and panel discussions.

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

Spacetex2 examines functional textiles under zero gravity Desk Report

German ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst sets off for his “Horizons” mission at the International Space Station The German ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst sets off on 6 June 2018 for his “Horizons” mission at the International Space Station (ISS), said a press release.

The Spacetex2 project includes clothing physiology experiments, which will investigate the interaction of the body, clothing, and climate under zero gravity conditions with regard to wear comfort.

The findings of Spacetex2 will help to optimize clothing for astronauts (known as IVA “intravehicular activity” clothing, i.e., clothing worn within the ISS), also with regard to long-term missions, for example, for the planned manned flight to Mars in the 2030s.

As per the mission goal “Knowledge for Tomorrow”, the project also provides important insights for the development of new functional textiles, which can also be used on Earth under extreme climatic and physiological conditions. From the perspective of global warming and climate change, this aspect is becoming ever more important.

“Alexander Gerst has to sweat quite a lot in space in order to activate the cooling performance of the functional shirts,” outlines Project Manager Dr. Jan Beringer from Hohenstein.

The release said that the fact that sweating under zero gravity is completely different from sweating on Earth was discovered in 2014 during the preceding Spacetex project and is a helpful framework condition for the experiments.

Jan Beringer explains, “Like on Earth, the human body emits heat when under strain and tries to cool itself down in this way. However,

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zero gravity changes heat exchange on the surface of the body - there is no loss of heat due to convection when in space. During physical activity, heat thus builds up quicker than on earth.

The result of this is that the core body temperature rapidly climbs to values that Figure: German ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst sets are too high to be off for his “Horizons” mission at the International Space Station to examine functional textiles under zero gravity. healthy. Therefore, it is very important to to his regular necessary training optimize heat exchange through sessions on the ISS, he must also the evaporative cooling of sweat complete six special training by clothing made of appropriate sessions with the different materials.” functional shirts on the ergometer For Alexander Gerst, sweaty or the treadmill. Special sensors experiments in the name of used in the “MetabolicSpace” science are nothing new. During experiment carried out in parallel the “Blue Dot” mission back in by the Institute of Aerospace 2014, his deployment to space Engineering at the TU Dresden, provided valuable findings for which act as an analysis system for the preceding Spacetex project physical and metabolic functions, which were included in the provide data .on respiratory flow, further development of the heart frequency, and oxygen functional shirts now specifically saturation. In this way, the effect manufactured for the ISS. of different functional shirts on the body temperature, wear comfort “Now it is the moment of truth and performance can be examined - the examination of three shirts individually. in space, each with a different cooling performance. We are all very excited about the results,” enthuses Jan Beringer.

The project partners Hohenstein, Charité University Medical Department in Berlin, German Aerospace Centre (DLR) and the European Space Agency will not have to wait long for new findings: the experiments that are part of Spacetex2 are scheduled for June 2018.

The release said that for Alexander Gerst this means that, in addition

The release informed that the results would be available to the scientists shortly afterward via data downlink to the Earth and can be included in the subsequent research. Sweating for science - in the project Spacetex2, Dr. Alexander Gerst will test the cooling performance of functional shirts both on Earth (see a picture of him during a training session at the European Astronaut Centre EAC in spring 2018) and in space.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Esprit to increase using sustainable viscose Desk Report Esprit, the Hong-Kong based fashion brand, has committed to raise sustainable viscose production as outlined by Changing Markets Foundation roadmap.

Esprit will work with suppliers and viscose manufacturers to move to a closed loop production system by 2023-25. With this, Esprit commits to improve the manufacturing process of viscose and modal fibers.

Following the roadmap outlined by the Changing Markets Foundation, Esprit is going to take all steps to promote and improve the sustainable production of viscose and modal fibers. It will clearly communicate procurement requirements and evaluate the environmental impact of the production process and social impacts of suppliers along the whole supply chain.

The goal is to minimize the effects of harmful chemicals in the manufacturing processes by adopting a closed loop system, Esprit said in a press release.

Viscose is the third most used fiber in the textile industry after polyester and cotton, and its use in clothing is rising day by day.

It has the potential to be a largely sustainable fiber, as it is made from plant matter and is biodegradable.

However, manufacturing viscose requires hazardous chemicals.

Esprit is already working on using more sustainable cellulose fibers and joined the Canopy Style initiative in 2015. The policy commits brands to stop sourcing the raw material for their viscose and rayon textiles from ancient and endangered forests. The initiative has now elapsed 125 brand partners representing over $134 billion in annual revenue,

Figure: To minimize the effects of harmful chemicals in the manufacturing processes, Esprit will increase using sustainable viscose fibers.

including H&M, Zara/Inditex, Stella McCartney and VF Corp.

Last Month, Esprit became the first fashion brand to sign a joint initiative between two European sustainable textile enterprisesThe German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textiles.

A success story of Rieter with Nitin Spinners Ltd. Desk Report Rieter’s customer Nitin Spinners Ltd. wanted to serve a niche market as quickly as possible.

Optimal cooperation between the customer and Rieter has made this ambitious project possible. Within 100 days, 72 960 compact spindles were installed.

Nitin Spinners Ltd. manufactures pure cotton yarns and fabrics for the national and international market in Bhilwara Rajasthan, in the northwest of India. With a capacity of 223 000 spindles and 3 000 rotors, Nitin Spinners produces 50 000 tons of yarn and 9 000 tons of fabric per year.

Nitin Spinners wanted to start producing compact yarns with the most advanced compact spinning machine K 42 in order to offer a

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wider range of yarns.

It was a challenge to achieve the production targets but they overcome it.

Rieter was able to achieve all agreed values for productivity, yarn quality and power consumption within the stipulated Figure: Rieter machines for fiber and spinning time frame. The preparation. combination of the best machines of their order deadlines as agreed. kind, coupled with a systematic One of the customers has said approach, made an important that, “We are very grateful to contribution towards ensuring that Rieter for delivering the machines the project could be implemented on time as well as providing the within 100 days. The timely best team of technical experts for commissioning enabled Nitin installation and commissioning.”

Spinners to meet the customer’s

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Te x t i l e P e o p l e

BSAHRP gets new executive committee Desk Report Bangladesh Society for Apparel HR Professionals (BSAHRP) recently has announced executive committee for their first annual general meeting on 8 June at Uttara in Dhaka. Nure A. Khan, Head of Factory, Envoy Group was selected as President and Sirajul Azad, General Manager (HR, Admin, and Compliance) of Bitopi Group was selected as a General Secretary.

The new executive members of BSAHRP Name

Position

Nure A. Khan

President

Md. Ali Hossain

Senior Vice President

Mahfuzur Rahman

Vice President

Sirajul Islam Azad

General Secretary

Md. Hanifur Rahman

Join Secretary

Shahin Mahmud

Organizing Secretary

Shawkat Iqbal

Treasurer

Khurshid Alam

Executive Member

Kowser Uddin

Executive Member

Faruque Hossain

Executive Member

M A Hashem

Executive Member

Lutfunnahar

Executive Member

Abdul Motalib

Executive Member

Belal Hossain

Executive Member

Abul Kalam

Executive Member

Figure: Nure A. Khan, was selected as President and Sirajul Azad, as General Secretary.

On the BSAHRP annual general meeting and iftar program, Atiqul Islam, Former President of and President of CEBAI said as chief guest, “Our industry is growing up with wellbeing, dignity, and safety. I hope this organization will lead the textile sector and assist Bangladesh to become a middle-income

country by 2021.” He suggested BSAHRP to enroll in FBCCI member list within a short time.

Md. Mosharraf Hossain, President of BSHRM, FBHRO, and APFHRM said, “It is a special day for me, BSAHRP is one of the best platform for HR professionals.” “We need an HR minister for human resource development,” he added.

Nur A. Khan, new President of BSAHRP, said that BSAHRP is an example of brotherhood, special tribe, and harbinger of change in RMG Sector. I hope new executive committee works for human capital development for RMG professional and lead the RMG sector.

BSAHRP former President (HR & Admin) and Director of Palmal Group K. M. Mahtabuddin said, “Industry needs more skilled people. BSAHRP is working for human capital development and I hope new committee will lead this sector properly.”

BSAHRP is a government approved registered umbrella organization and one of the active platforms for HR, admin and compliance professionals in the apparel sector of Bangladesh.

ITM 2020 will be of 5 days to be held on 2-6 June Desk Report The organizers have changed the dates of the ITM 2020 exhibition to 2-6 June 2020, which was earlier stated to be held from 3 to 6 June 2020, said a press release. This is going to be the 35th International Textile Machinery (ITM) exhibition in Istanbul. On the other hand, the HIGHTEX 2020 Exhibition, which was held concurrently with the ITM exhibition, also will be on June 2-6, 2020.

days because of intense demand from exhibitors and visitors. Being the address for world launches, the ITM 2020 exhibition will host exhibitors and visitors from around the world.

The duration of the ITM 2020 exhibition was extended to five

In addition, the ITM 2018 exhibition has turned into a textile show the

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The ITM 2018 exhibition, held on April 14-17, 2018 was the meeting point of the textile sector leaders who came from 94 countries, the number of domestic visitors increasing according to the past years.

increase in the number of machines exhibited and with the rise in the dimensions of the exhibitor booths, said the press release.

Applications for the ITM 2020 exhibition started as of June 1, 2018.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

We are a multinational textile Chemical Marketing Company with operations in India / Sri Lanka & in Bangladesh, with a vision of further expansion we invite the following candidates to join in our Bangladesh team located in Uttara Dhaka.

Initially the selected candidates will undergo intensive training for 3 months before he/she take up responsibility of his / her area.

Senior Manager

Senior Manager

Technical Sales– Textile Specialities & Colorants

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Male – 1 Position

Textile Engineer from reputed university with 5 years experience in the Textile Chemical sales.

Knowledge in Sales forecast / Report / Presentation.

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Textile Engineer / Masters from any reputed university with 2 years experience in the Laundry / Washing Chemical sales along with experience in Garments Special Effect.

Knowledge in Sales forecast / Report / Presentation.

Better Industry Relationship.

Must be Computer literate & good command in English.

Technical Executive, Application Research Laboratory

Female – 1 Position, Uttara

Textile Engineer/ Chemistry Graduate with minimum 3 years Textile Laboratory experience Knowledge in Textile Wet Processing, Quality Testing, Analytical Tests & Computer Color Matching Knowledge in Textile Chemical Management/ Various Compliance. Any certificate in ZDHC /Chemical Management Training will be an added qualification Must be Computer literate & good command in English.

Salary: Negotiable depends on experience and qualification of the selected candidate.

Giant Business Tower, Level-12 (West), Plot # 3 & 3/A, Sector # 3, Uttara C/A, Dhaka- 1230, Bangladesh.

Email: CareersBD@harrisandmenuk.com

Te x t i l e

people

R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Tuomo Poutiainen becomes Country Director for ILO in Bangladesh Desk Report Tuomo Poutiainen has taken up his post as the Country Director for the International Labor Organization (ILO) in Bangladesh.

An immediate release informed that he presented his letter of appointment to Foreign Minister A. H. Mahmood Ali, M.P on 3 June 2018.

Poutiainen has worked with the ILO for 19 years including spells in the Philippines, Switzerland, Cambodia, Thailand, and Bangladesh. During his time with ILO, he has been involved in community-based development, child labor, indigenous people’s issues, livelihoods promotion and peace and development initiatives.

The release said, in recent years, Poutiainen has specialized in developing and running efforts aimed at addressing working conditions, labor rights and managing industry improvement processes in global supply chains.

Prior to his appointment as ILO Country Director for Bangladesh, Poutiainen was Head of Quality and Factory Services for the ILO/ IFC Better Work Programme. From 2014 – 2017, he led ILO’s Improving Working Conditions in the ReadyMade Garment Sector programme.

Poutiainen has also run a largescale ILO programme addressing child labor and forced labor in the

Figure: Tuomo Poutiainen presented his letter of appointment as the Country Director for ILO to Foreign Minister A. H. Mahmood Ali.

seafood processing industry in Thailand as well as ILO’s flagship Better Factories Cambodia programme.

H&M collaborates with lingerie brand ‘Love Stories’ Desk Report

Sweden based apparel retailer H&M in association with Amsterdam based lingerie label Love Stories has announced to launch a new comfortable collection of lingerie.

As the importance of lingerie in fashion is huge so the retailer decided to go for a partnership with Love Stories brand since it is known for its eclectic prints, mix-and-match approach,and comfortable designs.

The H&M and Love Stories collaboration is a women’swear collection featuring a gorgeous and comfortable range of bralettes, briefs,and thongs along with sleepwear, an eye mask, socks and travel pouches in lace, satin,and soft polyamide.

Some of the bralettes are frontclosing for extra ease and all of them have soft, stretchy bandsfor the underboob area. There are

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several cami sets with shorts, plus a super-cozy pair of long socks for slouching around in.

Love Stories was founded by MarloesHoedeman in 2013 and is known for its eclectic prints and super comfy designs. The distinctive Love Stories color and print combinations are present across the H&M collaboration.

Hoedeman said, “The collection revolves around the classic Love Stories items – the bralette, the bikini briefs and thongs – and the perfect mismatches of prints and colors.”

According to PernillaWohlfahrt, H&M’s Design Director, “The brand has long admired the drive and energy of Love Stories and the way their designs combine prints and styles.”

She also explained that Lingerie has always been an important part of fashion. With this collaboration, we really want to show that lingerie can be just as fun and

Figure: H&M collaborates with ‘Love Stories’ to launch a new comfortable collection of lingerie.

expressive as clothes even if it’s not always on view and therefore Love Stories was the perfect fit.

“The best bit of this collaboration is the fact that you don’t need to choose between feeling slinky in the leopard slip and eye mask or cuddly in the floral pajama set – every piece can be paired with every other item for an eclectic look that’s perfectly you,” she added.

The products will be available around the world from 9 August this year.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 06

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