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Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member Amzad Hossain Monir Md. Abdul Jobber S.N. Abdullah Rakibul Islam Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 02nd April 2018 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. ÂŠ All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 11, Issue 03 (March 2018) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Bangladesh needs to invest in country-branding to uplift image of textile and RMG industry……

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On the Cover

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Editorial

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Implications of latest ‘Monetary Policy’ on the financial sector and economy

Content

March’ 18 |

Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel

Volume 11 |

Issue 03

Cotton Today

Presents Sustainability Seminar on

Sustainable

Textile Products & Its Manufacturing in Bangladesh Supported by

HUAREN LINEN

Cover Story Moderator

24-27 Tareq Amin

Editor & Publisher Bangladesh Textile Today

Speaker

Engr. Abdus Sobhan CIP Managing Director, Auko- Tex Group

15-16

Organized by

LDC to DC, preparation to triumph over the upcoming challenges

Top Story

Speaker

Umar Faruk Chowdhury Sustainability Expert

Supported by

Schedule: 14th March, 2018 13:45-15.15 Forum Space, Sustainability zone Booth no. H23, Hall 5.2 National Exhibition & Convation Center Shanghai, China

Sustainable products & practices of Bangladesh highlighted in Intertextile, Shanghai

Speaker

32-34

Speaker

Md. Hasan Kajmir Mahmud Director, South West Composite Ltd.

Mir Shahed Chowdhury Country Manager Huaren Linen Group

Concurrent with

HUAREN LINEN

Textile World

KARL MAYER acquires technology from MASTER

H&M declares winners for €1M awards for sustainable textile innovations

Global Cotton Summit 2018 showcased the progress of Bangladesh cotton spinning industry

Sustainability Today

35-36 Consumer behaviour, fast fashion, and sustainability

Textile People

18-19

Manufacturing excellence is must to remain competitive

Textile Talent Hunt

Scarce women presence in leading trade bodies

Fast fashion giant H&M itself become victim of FF trends, struggling with $4.3 billion of unsold clothes

Bangladesh, the highest growth market for GOTS certification in 2017

50 20-21

Human Capital

Archroma appoints Marcos Furrer as president of brand & performance of textile specialties

0.5 Million BDT research grants declared for Textile Talent Hunt best 50

Need initiative to stop illegal work permit of foreigners

Market Analysis

Cotton price is slightly downward but the yarn doesn’t follow

Bangladesh’s exports to Germany is higher than that of US market in Jul-Feb

Market Today

UK to continue tarifffree market access for Bangladeshi goods after Brexit

Industry Insight

38-39

Number of female workers declining in RMG sector

Obituary

Top textile talents of the country died in fire blast from gas leak

Content Factory Tales

March’ 18 |

Compliance Today

Volume 11 |

Issue 03

Country Profile

43-48 Sustainable practices in wet processing of Northern Tosrifa Group, the industry best practice

57-60

SDC summit creates awareness on chemical compliance in the textile supply chain

82-84

Why Ethiopia can be a future supply chain focal point for textile and apparel industry

Fashion Today

Industry Insight

Zaber & Zubair presents latest fabrics at Texworld 2018

Exclusive Interview

62-64

Modest wear going mainstream

Survey exposes 72 percent garments workers have no contract

Printing Today

52-56

News and Analysis

Bangladesh needs to invest in countrybranding to uplift image of textile and RMG industry……

Woman Entrepreneur

72-74

Pidilite’s one-stop textile printing solutions presented in Dhaka

Scarce women presence in leading trade bodies

Effective diversification of jute and jute products urged for further growth in global market

Campus Today

77 67-70

We should consider one’s quality, capability, education and performance instead of gender

Do not believe misconceptions about spinning sector

Knitting Today

Retailers Today

Walmart launched four new clothing brands to compete with its rival Amazon & Target

Industry Inside

124 risky RMG units ignoring the government order for closures

Cotton Today

India to produce less cotton than earlier estimates

Investment

78-80

Knitting industry requires modern technology for healthier growth

Compliance Today

Millers not interested utilizing $100 million fund of Alliance for its hard terms and conditions

BEZA to allot 500 acres land to BGMEA in Mirsharai EZ to upsurge apparel export

In Focus

95-96

Elastane (Spandex) filament care from spinning to end use washing

Intelligent Connection For your Air Compressor

Editorial

Implications of latest ‘Monetary Policy’ on the financial sector and economy AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary, Research Fellow, DCCI The recently published Monetary Policy Statement (MPS) of Bangladesh Bank for second half of FY 2017-18 mainly aims at employment creation and inclusive growth support in line with the SDG (Sustainable Development Goal). The MPS 2018 targets 7.4% GDP growth and inﬂation to keep within 6%. This MPS also targeted curbing unproductive lending and adherence to Forex Risk Management, Advance Deposit Ratio (ADR) reduction and Broad money circulation at 13.3%. The public sector credit growth aimed to be 8.3% less than that of last year. The broad money rate and public sector credit rate are which is slightly less than last MPS which may result into money circulation contraction. Unchanged ‘Repo Rate’ (The rate at which banks borrow from a central bank for short periods) may slightly cost high in terms of loan disbursement for commercial banks as this repo will also worsen and reduce the loan disbursement unless CRR (Cash Reserve Ratio) and SLR (Statutory Liquidity Ratio) are adjusted accordingly. The ADR rate reduction will not have a significant impact on liquidity and fund for borrowing in financial sectors. The MPS is usually declared to address the focused and sustainable financial sector and macroeconomic development impact. 12

The salient features of the current MPS and critical aspects of the given MPS can be outlined as below: 1. Focus and engagement in mobilizing foreign savings of NRBs (Non-Resident Bangladesh) through high yielding Wage Earners Bonds and portfolio investment with Non-resident Investment Taka Account (NITAs) for

2. MPS focuses on series of measures to tighten the money supply and contain aggressive and excessive lending. The policy encourages banks to avoid unduly high, medium and long-term lending exposure to corporate borrowers and develop capital market as an alternative source of funding for corporate houses popularizing issuing a long-term corporate bond in the market. 3. MPS sets conservative target for private sector credit growth 16.8% though the private sector credit growth reached to 18.1% in immediate past term with more personal credit concentration. The reduction in ADR ratio will not hurt much the liquidity supply in the market which will enhance growth. The unchanged repo rate and reverse repo rate may to some extent control the huge liquid outﬂow in the market and hold back the inﬂation rate though these tools are not widely used.

NRBs indicating bond market development as well as the revival of securities market development. Issuing longmaturity corporate bonds in the capital market will encourage a much-needed shift from bank loans to the capital market for long-term financing paving the way of bond market foundation.

4. The shift in current account dynamics from the large surpluses of recent years to a deficit from investment-and food-related imports, capital machinery import especially 33% rise created pressure on the foreign exchange rates as well lower export growth and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Editorial

remittance has widened the negative capital and current account balance. 5. Given the nominal depreciation of Taka against USD and other major currencies nominal effective exchange rate (NEER) and real effective exchange rate (REER) depreciation by 10% and 7% during 2017 respectively also made our foreign exchange rate volatile and directive from Central Bank for keeping the cap of exchange rate is not followed by the scheduled banks which inﬂate the cost of doing business. 6. To support the enrichment of remittance rise and retention, the informal channel of foreign exchange transfer and mobile backed fund transfer mechanisms can be ceased. Export and remittance could be moderately enriched due to Dollar price appreciation but the recent trend of export and remittance cannot commensurate this as export diversity is not robust and less than import volume and GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) economic fall also to some extent squeezes our remittance upturn. 7. The state banks are given recapitalization fund almost every fiscal year but some liquidity shortage of private banks and NBFI (Non-bank Financial Institution) often borrow from 4 state-owned banks. The dual standard policy of recapitalization versus external lending into banking sectors needs to be looked into and rationalized as it is the two edge sword impact mass people. Nonperforming loan & monetary policy Aggregate NPL (Nonperforming Loan) is alarmingly high in the banking sector as it is around 10.67% to BDT 808.45 Billion in April-June 2017 of the total borrowing and this need to be checked. Banks are yet to take the requisite tough administrative

and legal actions against habitual defaulters. The central bank surveillance measure management needs to be strengthened on commercial banks operations including audit operations to resist from ‘undue’ long-term exposure to corporate borrowers to help discipline in credit disbursement and reduce NPL trend. The recent banking sector scams seem to add fuel to the flame of NPL as these scams heavily shake and worry all stakeholders including investors, borrowers and private sector business community of the economy. There are different thoughts regarding NPL that in an emerging economy credit circulation is high which also enhances the scope of NPL irrespective of all economies in Europe and Asia but our NPL rate is incrementally alarming. Therefore, a separate and independent oversight body in our large and volatile banking sector may suffice the needs. The increasing modern banking sector operation foils the central bank to ensure closed surveillance as capacity development of central bank in the age of automation is not adequate and conflict of interest is evident in many respects. Keeping inflation under control Inflation ended 5.7 points in last MPS. Due to increasing cost-of-living, doing-business and other inflation increasing exogenous economic factors and geo-economic impacts on the economy, the inflation aimed at 6.5 in given MPS. The inflation may be higher as non-food inflation factors like LNG led energy price and LPG, an indication of the higher tariff of imported liquid fuel can exceed the 6% inflation in the given MPS. Broad money target reduction to 13.3% in this MPS may help reduce inflationary pressure with cautionary spirit provided the import trend is kept consistently low. The widening negative current and capital account balance

tend to signal weak balance of payment and wake up signal for the economy. Controlling the illicit capital outflow The GFI (Global Financial Integrity) report of $61.63 Billion illicit capital flow from Bangladesh between the Year 2004 and 2013 is really panicking, this devastating, illicit capital outflow needs to be repealed and ceased. As increasing import LC in recent years also needs to be brought under strong scrutiny. The decline of government borrowing from bank and increase of extreme ‘Sanchypatra’ led to Government borrowing imbalance the financial market add tax burden and incidence on mass people hurting the economic sustainability. The trend of nontradable savings instrument is also being large. This sort of culture development is discouraging and slimming banking portfolio and their expansion. For the sake of financial market including the banking sector, capital sector balanced development, the MPS needs to be checked and balanced. The critical evaluation of this MPS is no relevant observations and indications are depicted to treat this MPS very banking sector and economy friendly. Unilateral policy and lack of synchronization of the banking sector, government and economic operations private sector and foreign trade interest in the much-awaited MPS may hurt economic potentials undermining the desired economic development pace of Bangladesh and inclusive economic growth. The banking sector is also the lifeline of business and economic operations of our country and can be shielded to some extent through MPS tool. We must think of inclusive, balancing, and pro-financial sector MPS considering the holistic interest of economy and visionary economic transformation in forthcoming occasions.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Cover Story

LDC to DC, preparation to triumph over the upcoming challenges Akhi Akter Bangladesh policymakers have a vision to turn the country from ‘Least Developed Country’ to ‘Middle Income Country’ by 2021, which marks the 50th anniversary of Bangladesh’s independence. Interestingly Bangladesh already has achieved the status in 2015 while Bangladesh upgraded itself to the World Bank’s “lower middle income” category by increasing its Gross National Income. On the other hand, very recently, on March 16, the Committee for Development Policy, a UN panel announced Bangladesh’s eligibility for the developing country category as it has made satisfactory (to CDP) progress the three criteria including GNI Capita, Human Assets Index, and Economic Vulnerability Index.

LDC Category: GNI per capita, Income-based HAI and EVI Classification: GNI per capita

when there were 25 LDCs and now the number has been increased to 47, of them only five countries were able to graduate from the LDC group, including Bangladesh, Botswana, Cape Verde, Maldives, Samoa and Equatorial Guinea. Bangladesh is the only country that met all three criteria for graduation. However, the country will have to pass two more reviews in 2021 and 2024 to be freed from the Least Developed Country (LDC) label. In addition, if finally Bangladesh able to meet required criteria for the graduation in 2024, there will be a grace period of another 3 years until when Bangladesh can enjoy all LDC-specific benefits. After that, it will lose the trade facilities it enjoys as an LDC. The probable impact of graduating to DC The purpose of the World Bank’s income-based classification is to assess the creditworthiness of a country. On the other hand, the purpose of the UN’s LDC classification is to eliminate a country’s structural deficits. According to the United Nations, when a country graduates from the LDC category, it no longer benefits from LDC-specific international support measures. The practical implications and significance of that change depending on numerous

Figure 1: Showing identification criteria of LDC Category and Income-based Classification.

It is positive news for the country, however, at the same time, it contains some challenges also as Bangladesh was enjoying several benefits being a country of LDC. Economic analysts have said that if the real transformation occurs, the country naturally won’t require privileges of LDC. The country by this time could have developed a stable strong economy and industry. But many industry insiders, particularly from textile and apparel sector, told that they are not ready to imagine an industry without market access and other privileges as LDC. The United Nations introduced LDC category in 1971

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

BD will lose duty free access in European Union and some other countries Additional tariff on its exports will be imposed by BD may lose about 8 percent of its total exports

Figure 2: Future possible impacts of graduation from LDC.

Cover Story

factors and thus differ among countries. The actual impact of losing LDC-specific preferences depends on what goods the country exports, as well as other factors; including any trade agreements it may be a part of. For Bangladesh, apparel products are the main goods that are exported and it enjoys duty-free access in European Union and some other countries.

Preparation to face the challenges

Bangladesh is entitled to have duty-free access to the European market under the “Everything But Arms” initiative, which is a huge opportunity for the country as more than 60 percent of its export goes to the European market. Some developing countries like India offer duty-free market access for all products, and China for more than a thousand tariff lines.

Ways to overcome the future challenges

This graduation will open many doors of opportunities, though there are some challenges, according to the previous discussion. Now Bangladesh needs to take proper preparation as it can pass the next two more reviews in 2021 and 2024.

Free Trade Agreement’, ‘GSP Plus’ and ‘Regional Trade Agreement’

Reform policy and increase private investment

Dvelop infrastructure and enhance manpower skills

Manufacturers have to increase productivity

Figure 3: Showing the measures are needed to overcome the future challenges.

However, for the graduation, Bangladesh will lose At the same time, preparation is must to cope up with about 8 percent of its total exports because of the the new tag ‘Developing Country’. imposition of an additional tariff on its exports by Md. Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin said, “To overcome 6.7 percent without a the challenges the government should preferential treatment. emphasize on doing ‘Free Trade Agreement’, A Centre for Policy It is positive news for the ‘GSP Plus’ and ‘Regional Trade Agreement’ Dialogue (CPD) study country, however at the with developed countries. Besides, the reveals that the loss will same time it contains recommendations of the committee formed some challenges also as be equivalent to USD to measure the impact of graduation from Bangladesh was enjoying 2.7 billion. LDC have to follow properly.” several benefits being a New tariffs for EU, country of LDC. Economic Abul Kasem Khan, President of the Dhaka non-EU, and Canada analysts have said that Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI), are likely 8.7%, 3.9%, if real transformation is said, “We need to reform our policy, increase occurred, the country and 7.3%, respectively. private investment, develop infrastructure naturally won’t require According to the United and enhance manpower skills.” “As some privileges of LDC. The Nations Conference on facilities in export will be decreased, so that, country by this time could Trade and Development have developed a stable we need to formulate a proper export policy estimated, Bangladesh strong economy and and search new sector of export,” he added. may face an export industry. But many industry “Apparel sector will be more developed and decline between 5.5% insiders particularly export of other products will be increased. and 7.5%. from textile and apparel Market and demand for Bangladeshi products sector told that they are Md. Shafiul Islam will be increased, which will help us sustain,” not ready to imagine an Mohiuddin, President said Siddiqur Rahman. industry without market of the Federation of access and other privileges “Unless Bangladesh manages to renegotiate Bangladesh Chambers as LDC. through bilateral agreements or as part of of Commerce and regional trade arrangements, it will face MFN Industry (FBCCI) (most favored nation) tariff rates following said, “We are very the LDC graduation or reduced preferential margins happy that Bangladesh has been declared eligible under standard GSP scheme in EU market,” said for graduation from LDC. Bangladesh has taken its Mustafizur Rahman, distinguished fellow of Centre for status to a new height. But there are some challenges, Policy Dialogue (CPD). which we have to face carefully.” “For the graduation, “Since the production costs have gone up due Bangladesh will lose duty-free and tariff-free facility to improved wages and safety improvement, in the European countries,” he added. manufacturers have to increase productivity through BGMEA President Md. Siddiqur Rahman said, “If skills training and enhancement,” said Abdus Salam Bangladesh comes out from the LDC, I think, the Murshedy, President of Exporters Association of export of the country will not face its negative Bangladesh. impact. Bangladesh will get a long period to take In fine, Bangladesh is on the road to be a developed preparation. By this time, our business and industry country, to go ahead of the road it needs proper will be more advanced and developed. Skills of our planning and action. Above discussion could help the workers, entrepreneurs, and management will be policymakers to make future steps to conquer the enhanced.” challenges.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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To p S t o r y

Manufacturing excellence is must to remain competitive Abir Basak

Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world. More than 65% of the country’s industrial employment and 84% of the export earnings is generated from this sector. With an export growth of 13.2% (last 15 years average), this country aims to achieve US$ 50 billion markets by 2021. However, we know the country is fronting sluggish growth now because of adverse competition, price reduction, and increased manufacturing cost. The industries are fighting to remain competitive and sustainable.

top quality products in the most eﬃcient and economical manner possible.”

$ 50.00 2020

$ 42.09 2019

$ 35.67 2018

$ 30.23 2017

$ 25.62

$ 28.67 2015

2016

$ 26.60 2014

$ 24.58

$ 19.79 2011

2013

$ 19.21 2010

2012

$ 14.85 2009

$ 11.89 2008

$ 11.88 2007

$ 9.35 2006

$ 7.90 2005

$ 6.42 2004

$ 5.69 2003

$ 4.91 2002

$ 23.50

clear horizon or is it hazy line in front? Is the vision of $ 50billion by 2021 on the 50th anniversary of the Republic of Bangladesh is really a vision or hallucination? Is it attainable,” he questioned.

“Standing at 2018, to achieve US$ 50 billion markets by 2021, how far we can see? Can we see the

$ 4.58

Mohammad Shohel Ahmed said, “We need to reform, perform and transform our mode of operation to make our vision a true reality. The leading factor, which can ensure this growth, competitiveness, and sustainability of the industry now, is manufacturing excellence. Manufacturing Excellence is aimed to incorporate less human effort, less inventory, less time to develop products and less space to become highly responsive to customer demand while producing

Figure 1: Mohammad Shohel Ahmed, Head of Manufacturing Excellence (BD) of QA Services Hong Kong Ltd (Lidl liaison oﬃce) delivered his model of increasing competitiveness in 3rd ICTA 2018.

2001

Mohammad Shohel Ahmed, Head of Manufacturing Excellence (BD) of QA Services Hong Kong Ltd (Lidl liaison oﬃce) discussed and tried to find out the way out to overcome these hurdles, to sustain and to attain such a big growth rate in his speech in 3rd International Conference on Textile and Apparel, ICTA 2018 held in Dhaka recently. The conference organized jointly by Bangladesh Textile Today and The Textile Institute Bangladesh Section.

Figure 2: Bangladesh aims to achieve US$ 50 billion markets by 2021. The figure shows current achievements and growth required.

“Global manufacturing powerhouses such as China, Turkey, and Vietnam have reached

their leading status by adopting manufacturing excellence in every area. They have already improved

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

To p S t o r y

their competitiveness by changing the ways and putting more focus on things which support the core activities to produce good quality at low cost,” he added. According to Mr. Ahmed’s data, there are three manufacturing excellence key strengths for industry growth such as lower labor cost, large manufacturing capacity, and manpower ability. The labor cost in China is minimum US$ 550-600 among the apparel makers. In Cambodia it is US$ 190-220, in Vietnam it is US$ 170190, in India it is US$ 160-180 and in Bangladesh, it is US$ 68-110. In Bangladesh, the number of units of spinning mills are 385, weaving are 721, knitting are 2800, power loom and handloom are respectively 1065 and 1,83,512, dyeing-finishing are 310 and garments are 5063. When Bangladesh government will again increase the minimum wage rate in coming days the textile and apparel mills have to find out right solution to remain operational keeping competitiveness. Labor Cost (USD/Month)

opportunities:

57%

• increasing wages while decreasing FOB prices, • risk of political instability, • high lead time due to infrastructure shortage etc. Possible way outs Shohel Ahmed said that we could improve our production capacity, quality and process to make the industry better. Leaders and policymakers are suggesting for a diversifying product and market. Factory modernization, reducing the cost of production and lead time, optimizing energy utilization and convert waste to energy, increasing eﬃciency and attracting large scale of foreign investment can give us an extra mileage in our textile sector which is the main backbone of the economy in Bangladesh. The scope of Manufacturing Excellence (ME) Mohammad Shohel Ahmed presented different business data

India

China

Bangladesh

Vietnam

Cambodia

160-180

550-600

68-110

170-190

190-220

Figure 3: Labor cost of different countries.

He pointed out not only the key strength formula but also industries weakness, opportunities, and threats by SWOT analysis. Why losing competitiveness Infrastructure/utilities, road network, and port facilities are seen as major limiting weakness factors. Below are the main reasons for which we are losing our competitiveness: • the absence of complete manufacturing value chain raw materials, • adoption of new technology, • increasing manufacturing cost, • high man-machine ratio, • less focus on eﬃciency, • lack of product and process development Mr. Ahmed identified below threats which may hinder the growth

Bangladesh Textile Today |

51%

on ME where he mentioned the importance and scopes of ME. Not only ME is a term used for a business model designed to eliminate waste while delivering a quality product at less cost and impact to the environment but also it places a focus on customer satisfaction value. It can be applied to all organizations, for any office and or business system. After implementing, industry insiders can get typical benefits within a specified time such as shorter lead-time, less rework, lower inventory, reduction costs, efficient use of manpower and space, improving quality, greater flexibility etc. Mr. Ahmed said, “We recently examined the performance of some apparel manufacturers who were adopting ME initiatives, we

Volume 11, Issue 03

Before Implementation Period

After Implementation Period

Figure 4: Eﬃciency status before and after, according to a pilot project of implementing ME.

found improvements in many areas.” He shared the story with the audiences and told one factory’s annual some breakdown and major avoidable losses, which were constantly taking of the profitable graph towards the negative side. Cutting wastages, cut to ship ratio, absenteeism, unskilled operator crisis, the wrong attitude of staffs, eﬃciency, excess manpower, not available of trimmings-accessories, feeding delay, color shading problems, approval delay, power failure, supervisory problem, higher defect etc hamper the total production process and company’s income. Worker entry-exit time delay is a reason for massive losses on factory turnover growth. He gave an analysis report of it. Shohel Ahmed told, “If workers delay to enter in the factory for 5 minutes from the exact duty time, go to lunch before 5 minutes, come back after 10 minutes, pack up their work before 10 minutes, then we can see that the yearly production lose in one factory stands at around 17 crore taka. It was the company’s potential gain but it happens only because of lack of proper supervision. There is no investment, just if we monitor carefully about this extra wastages by ME controlling tools, we can save a lot and give the salaryallowance to the workers and staffs by this earning.” He emphasized on waste management and said, “Wastage is the potentiality which is ultimately the sustainability.”

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

0.5 Million BDT research grants declared for Textile Talent Hunt best 50 Staﬀ Correspondent

The 6th season of Textile Talent Hunt, TTH 2017-18 is being organized by the research development and promotion based organization Bangladesh Textile Today, a globally recognized techno trade magazine and platform for textile and apparel industry. Dysin, one of the largest Dyestuff & Chemicals suppliers and technical service providers for the Bangladesh Textile Industry, is powered by’ sponsor of the event. Recently Dysin and Textile Today have declared research grants of BDT 500,000/- (five lacs taka only) for best fifty of TTH participants. Best 50 talents of TTH 2017-18 will get grants from the fund to do their research projects. On 12 January 2018, Textile Today organized the written test for TTH 2017-18 through which the best fifty talents were selected. These

Figure 2: Md. Mizanur Rahman, Chairmen, Dysin Group and Tareq Amin, Editor and Publisher, Bangladesh Textile Today handovers Research scholarship fund to the TTH Judge Panel Chairman Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan.

are the best talents sorted out from almost all textile garment and fashion designing undergraduate students of the country. These students are the future leaders of the industry and they are going to rock the textile garment sector in near future. Md. Mizanur Rahman, Chairman of

Dysin Group said, “We hope that we will extend our cooperation for such program in future.” He also said, “Textile Today has set a great example not only for Bangladesh but also for the whole world to follow.” Mr. Rahman congratulated the best 50 talents and suggested them to work hard for the project part. He

Figure 1: Distinguished guests and a part of best fifty talents of TTH 2017-18 were present at the research grants declaration ceremony at Dysin oﬃce in Dhaka.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

hoped that this research fund will be very helpful for TTH talents. Professor Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro ViceChancellor of BUFT and the Chairman of Judges’ The panel said that the performance of this year’s students will be better than last year. The grooming sessions will help the students throughout their future life, he added. Bangladesh Textile Industry needs more investment and funds for research and development due to a competitive market. He thanks to Dysin for funding in the research and development. Tareq Amin, Editor, and Publisher of Bangladesh Textile Today said that TTH is such a competition program, which produces vision in the students’ mind through knowledge and research. “This competition integrates all textile institutes by linking them with the industry which will create future leaders with a different mindset,” he added. He also said that the best 50 students will learn research methodology and will work in different industries and institutes for around two months under selected supervisors to make their research paper. Works of those students will be judged by renowned Judges’ Panel members to select best five. The best five students will present their work in the Grand Finale program of TTH 2017-18.

Figure 3: P r o m o t i n g R e s e a r c h

Textile Today opened the grooming activities for these best participants on 9 and 10 March. A seminar on research methodology was arranged followed by two consecutive seminars on research scopes and communication skills. In the last five seasons, over 3000 students participated in the campus seminar. Total 1841 students registered for the written test of which 250 students successfully learned the research methodology. Participants submitted 158 research papers from which 32 papers were published.

Foundation Course on

Factory Skills Development in

Quality Control and Assurance Mentor’s Profile Engr. Md. Kawsar Alam Sikder

Chief Operating Officer Fariha Knit Tex Ltd. Asrotex Group Trainer & Consultant in Continual Quality Improvement Having more than 19 years of successful professional track record. Obtain training on Total Quality Management from Japan & Lean Six Sigma Black Belt certificate.

Course fees: 4,900/- (Four thousand nine hundred taka only) ** 10% Discount for Textile Today Subscriber. ** 5 or more participants from one organization will get special discount.

Course Summary: Number of Days: 5 (20 hours) Number of Classes: 10 Schedule : 20th & 27th April, 4th, 11th & 18th May, 2018 Time : 9.00 AM to 1.00 PM

Course Content Quality strategy & policy management. Principals of Total Quality Management. Quality control tools selection & application. Root cause analysis, key issues prioritization and solutions. Introduction of zero defect quality & its necessity. Basic Components analysis of zero defect quality. Importance of kaizen in quality assurance. Methods for mistake proofing process. Predictable & non predictable conditions which lead to defects. Evaluation of modern quality systems.

P l e a s e b o o k y o u r s e a t h e r e : w w w. t r a i n i n g . t e x t i l e t o d a y. c o m . b d

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Human Capital

Need initiative to stop illegal work permit of foreigners Staﬀ Correspondent It is now known to all that a large number of foreign professionals are working in Bangladesh without any legal documents, taking away billions of dollars every year. The foreigners mainly come from India, Sri Lanka, China, Pakistan, South Korea, Taiwan and some European and African countries. Deferent NGOs have found that the number might be more than five lakh and more than $5 billion ﬂows out of the country annually for them, although the government agencies have no statistics on the number of foreign nationals working in Bangladesh. While asking experts about the reason of hiring foreign workers most of them said it is because Bangladesh has no enough skilled manpower. Mahmud Hassan Khan Babu, Vice President of BGMEA, said, “There are no foreign labors in the garments sector but some foreign professionals hold top managerial and technical posts in the sector. Due to lack of skilled manpower in the country, factory owners have appointed those foreigners.” According to the Center for Policy Dialogue, a large number of foreign professionals are engaged in Bangladesh’s apparel, textile, buying a house, telecommunication, information technology, poultry and poultry feed sectors and most of them are working without permission. Recently CPD published a survey, which showed 16 percent factories (of the 193 sample enterprises) have employed foreign staff. Mohammad Hatem, First Vice President of BKMEA said, “It is not fair to work illegally in Bangladesh. Bangladesh government should take initiative

their areas of work in the apparel sector. According to the study proposition, some 5 lakh foreigners are working in Bangladesh and about 1 lakh of them are registered with the Bangladesh Investment Development Authority, Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority and NGO Affairs Bureau.

5 lakh

foreigners are working

The Centre of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry is a joint initiative of the International Labour Organisation, the Government of Sweden, Swedish fashion retailer H&M and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association. ‘The findings of the study would be finalized shortly and it would be disseminated at a seminar,’ CEBAI president Md Atiqul Islam said.

1 lakh

are registered

There were two types of illegal foreign employees in the country, some have come using tourist or student visa and continued residing and working without valid documents while some others obtained permits for some organizations but switched to and continued working for some others.

$5 billion flows out every year

to stop illegal work permission. The government should make easy the visa processing for the foreign employee as industry owners are hiring foreign experts in RMG sector due to lack of skilled manpower”. Centre of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry recently began a research titled ‘Employment of Expatriates and its Alternatives in the RMG Sector of Bangladesh’ in collaboration with the Faculty of Business Studies of Dhaka University to find out reasons for hiring foreigners and

According to Bangladesh Investment development authority data, 7,642 new industrial work permits to foreigners in the past five years while it also renewed work permits for 11,059 foreign nationals during that period.The authority also issued some 5,500 new commercial work permits and renewed some 6,300 permits in the past five years. Bangladesh government should establish a computerized database on foreigners and it should think how we can substitute locals for foreign employees, said Mustafizur Rahman, Distinguished Fellow of CPD.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

M a r k e t To d a y

UK to continue tariff-free market access for Bangladeshi goods after Brexit Desk Report The UK will continue tariff-free market access for Bangladeshi goods after Brexit, Sir Simon McDonald, Permanent Under-Secretary of the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Oﬃce, announced it during the UK-Bangladesh second Strategic Dialogue held on 15th March at the Foreign and Commonwealth Oﬃce in London. A press statement of Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Bangladesh said that the dialogue involved a fruitful exchange of views on political and bilateral issues, economic and development cooperation, security and defense cooperation, and exchanges on current global issues, including the Rohingya crisis. The Strategic Dialogue was led by Sir Simon McDonald, and his Bangladeshi counterpart, Foreign Secretary Md. Shahidul Haque of the Bangladesh Ministry of Foreign Affairs said the statement. Sir Simon McDonald told on dialogue, “The Strategic Dialogue was held at an important juncture for both countries as the UK prepares to leave the European Union and Bangladesh advances to middle-income country status. I repeated the UK’s commitment to continue tariff-free market access for Bangladeshi goods entering the UK market after the UK leaves the European Union.” “The second Strategic Dialogue provided us an important opportunity to discuss how both sides can encourage the transition to a broader relationship between the UK and Bangladesh in the post-Brexit and post-LDC context. We agreed to plan now for a future development partnership focussed on innovation, knowledge, skills development and employment while continuing to ensure that no-one is left behind, especially women, girls, and people with disabilities,” said Md. Shahidul Haque.

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‘Sustainable Fiber, Yarn & Fabric’ from below industries?

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You can send your articles/advertorials as below categories to be published in the special sustainability supplementary Editorial Interviews Case Studies News & Views Results of Piloting Feasibility Reports Product/Service Analysis etc.

“We appreciated the UK Government’s firm commitment to continue to provide duty-free, quota-free market access to Bangladeshi goods to the UK market after it left the European Union. We highlighted the valuable contribution that the BritishBangladeshi community continues to contribute to British society and prosperity,” he added. The UK congratulated Bangladesh for being on course to graduating to middle-income country status. It welcomed Bangladesh’s efforts and commitment to improving performance against the World Bank’s “Doing Business Index”. Both sides agreed that trade was an important tool in tackling poverty and that increasing bilateral trade could bring significant benefits to both countries. On the dialogue, both sides agreed to arrange appropriate celebrations in London and Dhaka in 2022 to mark the 50th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between the UK and Bangladesh.

Driving business with knowledge

Contact: Mobile: +88 01775 999 748 Email: info@textiletoday.com.bd Address: 25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector - 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh

B r a n d i n g B a n g l a d e s h Te x t i l e & A p p a r e l

Sustainable products & practices of Bangladesh highlighted in Intertextile, Shanghai Special Correspondent

Textile Today under its endeavor of ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile and Apparel’ has organized a seminar in Intertextile Spring Edition held in National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), Shanghai, China on 14th March 2018. Speakers in the seminar highlighted sustainable products and practices of Bangladesh. It also identified Bangladesh’s opportunities in becoming one of the global sustainability hubs for textile and apparel manufacturing.

Presents Sustainability Seminar on

Sustainable

Textile Products & Its Manufacturing in Bangladesh Supported by

HUAREN LINEN

Impact of ‘low-cost manufacturing’, ‘low price sales’ and ‘sustainability: In a ‘Global Apparel Value Chain’ that widely dominated by global brands, ‘low cost’ garments selling in the name of ‘Fast Fashion’ is badly affecting the whole world. It is pushing pressure down the line to the manufacturers to reduce their manufacturing cost. For this trend manufacturers ‘profitability’ is going down and they are struggling to invest in improving ‘Environment’ and ‘Social’ aspects of sustainability. Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher of Textile Today highlighted the economic problem in this context. He was speaking in the seminar as Moderator. When asked by the reporter, Mr. Amin told, “To increase ‘Economic’ aspects of sustainability, 3R (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) is not enough unless ‘Sustainable’ interventions provide an extra premium to the manufacturers. Bangladesh as a textile and apparel manufacturing countries need to position itself as a ‘Sustainable’ manufacturer. But that will be successful only when they will be able to capitalize a ‘premium’ from its ‘sustainability’ interventions.”

Moderator

Schedule: to the world. He added that Textile Today has 14 March, 2018 13:45-15.15 taken the initiative of organizing Forum Space, Sustainability zone One of the distinguished speakers Booth no. H23, Hall 5.2 such international seminars Tareq for &Amin Editor Publisher Exhibition & Convation Center of the seminar Engr.National Abdus Sobhan Bangladesh Textile Today Shanghai, China ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile CIP acknowledged the importance and Apparel’. Such platform is of presentingSpeaker Bangladeshi Speaker Speaker helping Bangladeshi companies Speaker companies great works to a global to showcase their best practices gathering like Intertextile. Mr. and in the global arena. More Sobhan is the Managing Director of planned and integrated effort will Auko-tex Group, one of the leading help companies getting an Hasan Kajmir Shahed Chowdhury Engr. Abdus Sobhan CIPextra Umar Faruk Chowdhury sustainableMd. textile and Mahmud apparel Mir Director, Country Manager Managing Director, Sustainability Expert premium for their interventions. South West Composite Ltd. Huaren Linen Group AukoTex Group manufacturers in Bangladesh. Mr. Amin stressed that only bad A true sense of commitment to Organized by things of Bangladesh have been Supported by Concurrent with sustainability always gives great spread all over the world. Many returns HUAREN LINEN great efforts and successes of ‘Sustainability’ was supposed to be the country and its companies an integral part of the business not have not been told to the global to be considered as an imposed platform at all. He hoped that such prescription or requirements as per Textile Today initiatives will be as the concept of ‘Sustainability effective to promote Bangladeshi 2.0’. As per the book Sustainability sustainable practices and products th

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Figure 1: Speakers of Textile Today seminar for Branding Bangladesh Textile and Apparel held in Intertextile Shanghai. (L-R) Umar Chowdhury, Business Sustainability Expert, Hasan Kajmir Mahmud, Director, South West Textiles Ltd., Engr. Abdus Sobhan CIP, Managing Director, Auko-Tex Group, Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Textile Today.

2.0 by Ernesto van Peborgh and corresponding articles and developments around 2008-09 ‘Sustainability’ is supposed to be the core of the company. All the decisions and strategies of the companies must be taken considering ‘Sustainability’. But the reality is ‘Sustainability 2.0’ created number of new regulations all around the sector. And till now the sustainability gamut is mostly centered on different regulations, requirements, and certifications. Anything implemented as regulations, requirements, and certifications don’t really mean that those have been done as self-initiative. Still, there have been discussions whether the industries truly have taken the ownership of ‘sustainability’ or it is still an imposition.

amount of funds on sustainable and compliance issues. The sustainable philosophy of Auko-Tex Group is long-term and matched with its steps to Economic, Social and Environmental programs. It believes, people living in any place deserve the right to be returned in every environmental and social issue while the business of AukoTex Group ﬂourishes with more competitiveness.

informed that Auko-Tex Group is always in a ceaseless up-gradation of New Technologies to Save Operational Cost to Be More and More Competitive by Improving Energy Eﬃciency, Introducing Latest Management Concepts, providing training to its oﬃcials from home and abroad along with its sustainability projects.

Highlighting some best practices of his company, Mr. Sobhan

Umar Chowdhury, a renowned

Gaining benefits from ‘Circular Economy’:

Highlighting this reality; Engr. Abdus Sobhan CIP depicted how his company was different and how he achieved excellent results. Mr. Sobhan told that his company didn’t take sustainability only as a story; it rather owned it and integrated it. Mr. Sobhan told that Auko-Tex Group has taken a commendable challenge working for long-term benefits investing a remarkable

Figure 2: Engr. Abdus Sobhan CIP, Managing Director, Auko-Tex Group delivering his speech.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

B r a n d i n g B a n g l a d e s h Te x t i l e & A p p a r e l

Business Sustainability Expert working in a leading global brand for making textiles more sustainable highlighted scopes for Bangladesh to put the great impact in the circular economy that has emerged strongly through-out the world. With growing population and growing consumption, the linear economy will only make the world worst to live. And certainly circular economy is the solution. Mr. Chowdhury stressed that Bangladesh has enormous

LINEAR ECONOMY

TAKE

CIRCULAR ECONOMY

MAKE

USE

MAKE REMAKE USE REUSE

Figure 3: Circular economy the solution to solve current economic problems!

opportunities in capitalizing the aspects of the circular economy. Bangladesh having a huge population and the huge volume of textile manufacturing itself can produce a number of products by recycling solid wastes. Those products can be sold to global brands with the story of ‘circular fashion’. Mr. Chowdhury added that when China has put an embargo on importing used cloth, Bangladesh can take this opportunity and go for recycle cotton, recycle polyester and producing more sustainable viscose fiber. Even though Bangladesh also don’t import used garments from Europe, the existing cutting waste and other solid waste in Bangladesh could be used for producing products to be sold to the global brands as recycled goods. These products could be sold at an extra premium, he added in the question and answer session of the seminar.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Sustainable products and its manufacturing in Bangladesh Bangladesh has taken a proposition for improving its country image and makes sure reposition of its brand as the place for producing ‘Green’ products. The country recently has seen a sharp growth of environmentally friendly factories. The most popular certification prevailing here is USGBC (United States Green Building Council) approved LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification. As per unoﬃcial data, there are currently DISPOSE thirty of such approved factories in Bangladesh, eighty are undergoing processing, and about two hundred and eighty filed an application. Most interesting statistics is that among topranked 10 LEED certified factories in the world 7 are located in Bangladesh. The seminar highlighted Bangladesh’s success in establishing ‘Green’ factories. Like the ‘Green’ factory revolution, a number of factories are emphasizing on ‘Sustainable’ products and processes. In many disciplines, the country has become a global example to follow. Many global best practices

are now being implemented in Bangladeshi factories. Bangladesh has all its potentiality to emerge as ‘sustainability hub’ of manufacturing textile and apparel in the world. Highlighting this context, Hasan Kajmir Mahmud, Director, South West Composite Ltd. depicted some great initiatives Bangladeshi companies have taken in manufacturing sustainable products. He mentioned about a company in Bangladesh producing recycled polyester chips from PET bottles. He also mentioned about another company producing cotton and cotton blend recycled products using cutting wastes coming out from Bangladeshi apparel mills. Mr. Kajmir also mentioned about Bangladesh government’s initiatives in producing viscose fiber from jute. The 100 million BDT project will come up with one of the most sustainable viscose fiber in the world in near future. Mr. Kajmir also depicted the opportunity of jute fiber for being a sustainable source of textile materials to be used in more valueadded products. Textile Today has organized the seminar jointly with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel FabricsSpring Edition. The seminar was supported by Huaren Linen Group.

Figure 4: A part of the participants of Bangladesh seminar at Intertextile Shanghai.

Volume 11, Issue 03

Te x t i l e w o r l d

KARL MAYER acquires technology from MASTER Desk Report technical textiles and warp preparation for weaving. In its center of excellence for denim sector, KARL MAYER ROTAL will further develop the Nitrogen technology by integrating it into its current product range PRODYE-S and PRODYE-R.

Recently, MASTER and KARL MAYER signed an agreement for transferring the continuous dyeing technology with indigo and other dyestuffs of warp chains for denim fabrics. By completing this agreement, KARL MAYER takes over from MASTER patents, trademarks, projects and dyeing technology for machines model: IndigoFlow, IndigoRope, and IndigoGenius. KARL MAYER is one of the innovative market leader and driving force in textile machinery building. They offer various machine models and appropriate solutions for warp knitting,

Figure (L-R): Francesco Ronchi, Managing Director of MASTER, and Enzo Paoli, Managing Director of KARL MAYER ROTAL

Moreover, a pioneer leader in the continuous dyeing with indigo and other dyestuffs, MASTER will stop the manufacturing of this kind of machines and will focus its activity to develop and manufacture new machines for packages and hank dyeing after the delivery of currently ordered machines.

H&M declares winners for €1M awards for sustainable textile innovations Desk Report One of the global fashion retailers H&M has declared this year’s € 1M winners to five sustainable textile innovation project teams under the third Global Change Award. The fund will be used for their new technologies that convert leftovers from food crop harvests such as ﬂaxseeds, new technology that turns algae into a biofiber and eco-friendly dye that is also

Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm will support the winners to cut years off their timeline, bringing them to fashion and innovation,” said Karl-Johan Persson, Board Member of H&M Foundation and CEO of Hennes & Mauritz AB. The five innovations that can help speed up the shift to a circular waste-free fashion industry and protect the planet were awarded the third Global Change Award. IInovation Project

Amount

Crop A Porter, USA

€300,000

The Regenerator, Sweden

€250,000

Algae Apparel, Israel

€150,000

Smart Stich, Belgium

€150,000

Fungi Fashion, Netherlands

€150,000

Table 1: Five innovation project teams win €1 million euro from Figure 1: The winners of the 2018 Global Change Award

good for skin, to make sustainable bio-textiles. The initiative from the non-profit H&M foundation is aimed at spurring ideas to accelerate the shift from a linear to a circular fashion industry. “I congratulate all five winning teams for their innovation. This day marks the start of a one-year innovation accelerator where H&M Foundation,

H&M foundation.

The American team behind the Crop APorter project received the biggest prize for their developing new technology that converts leftovers from food crop harvests such as ﬂaxseeds, sugar cane, and pineapple to make sustainable bio-textiles. The new technology that turns algae into a biofiber and eco-friendly dye that is also good for skin, on the other hand, Fungi Fashion that makes custom-made clothes from decomposable mushroom roots.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

aamra resources FOR FASHION INDUSTRY

aamra becomes the number one SCLAVOS selling agency worldwide in the 70 years old history of SCLAVOS

Te A dxvtei lret oPr ei aolp l e

Scarce women presence in leading trade bodies Staﬀ Correspondent

The situation for women in Bangladesh is changing for the better, especially in terms of economic participation. Negative attitudes towards women’s business leadership must be changed. Women entrepreneurs’ representative is very low in Bangladesh’s trade organizations, which is very disappointing when our Prime Minister, Opposition Leader, and Speaker in the parliament are women, opined several apparel industry women entrepreneurs. According to FBCCI, there are only six women on the current 61-member board of directors of the country’s apex trade body.

Figure 2: One of the RMG exporters Helena Jahangir, Director, FBCCI

According to the World Economic Forum, in 2017 Bangladesh topped the list of South Asian countries in gender equality and ranked 47th among 144 nations, showing remarkable progress in gender parity for legislators, senior oﬃcials, and managers as well as professional and technical roles. One of the country’s apex trade body, BGMEA, a platform of 3.5 million workers, of which 60.8% are women, has no women representatives on its current board. The Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI) and Bangladesh Knitwear

Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) also do not have any women members on the board.

and Bangladesh Textile Mills Association has two members on the board.

There are a large number of women entrepreneurs in the apparel industry and other sectors. However, there are hardly any women in the trade bodies to speak about our needs and demand.

“There were women on the previous board. They are unwilling to come as they cannot give much time and are not capable of handling the responsibilities,” BGMEA president Siddiqur Rahman told the Dhaka Tribune.

Helena Jahangir, Director of FBCCI said to empower women in the trade organizations, the government should include a provision in the trade organization rules making it mandatory to have a certain number of women on the board. REHAB has only one member, MCCI has two women members,

6 FBCCI

13 2 MCCI

0 DCCI

0 BGMEA

0 BKMEA

2 BTMEA

However, the women entrepreneurs rejected his comment, saying that most of them are running their businesses successfully. “As a woman, I run my businesses effectively. I also performed well as a board member of BGMEA,” said Vidiya Amrit Khan, Former Director of the BGMEA.

“If they do not want to participate, we cannot force them to assume leadership positions,” he added.

1 REHAB

“The consideration for an eligible candidate in representing the trade body should not be based on gender. We should consider one’s quality, capability, and education instead of gender. It is time to think about performance,” she added.

Figure 1: Number of women representation in the trade organization.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Market Analysis

Cotton price is slightly downward but the yarn doesn’t follow Desk Report Cotton prices have slightly fallen in February 2018 in India and Pakistan market instead of China. And it will give an extra advantage to India and Pakistan spinning mills but as a cotton importer, Bangladesh didn’t get any benefit. Bangladesh is one of the biggest importers of cotton in the world and biggest part of it comes from India. In this Fiscal Year 201718 already Bangladesh imported 7.1 million bales cotton which was 7 million bales in the same period of last FY 2016-17 according to the United States Department of Agriculture. Local growers can only reserve less than 3 percent of yearly demand so that it’s very important to follow up the international cotton price status for local manufacturers. Bangladesh is the only country which is still dependent on other countries for raw cotton making yarns and fabrics. By the end of 2020, cotton consumption in Bangladesh will hit 7.9 million bales according to the Bangladesh Cotton Association. Currently, Bangladesh imports 55 percent of its demand for cotton from India but China, Pakistan, Ethiopia, Australia, and the US will be a great alternative as per the cotton sourcing specialist. This monthly report compares cotton fiber and yarn prices in China, India, and Pakistan, offering a comprehensive view of the yarn/fiber spreads in the three countries.

Table 2: Cotton Yarn Prices in China, India, and Pakistan (In US$ per Kilo) (Source: Emerging Textile)

Month

China*

India**

Pakistan***

32/1s

30/1s

US$

Kilo

Sep-17

$3.55

$3.11

$3.06

Oct-17

$3.53

$2.98

$3.11

Nov-17

$3.51

$2.95

$3.15

Dec-17

$3.51

$2.99

$3.13

Jan-18

$3.59

$3.09

$3.23

Feb-18

$3.66

$3.11

$3.13

1 Month

0.07

0.02

-0.1

1 Month (%)

1.95%

0.65%

-3.10%

3 Month (%)

4.27%

4.01%

0.00%

1 Year (%)

8.61%

-1.61%

-0.32%

Cotton yarn prices have not fall compared with fiber price so that margins have raised at spinning mills in India and Pakistan but Bangladeshi supplier wasn’t able to change the LC values so that they didn’t get the benefit of the downﬂow of prices. Table 3: Cotton Yarn/Fiber Spread: US$ Terms (In US$ per Kilo) (Source: Emerging Textile)

Table 1: Cotton Prices in China, India, and Pakistan (In US Dollar per Kilo) (Source: Emerging Textile)

China

India

Pakistan

32/1s

30/1s

China

India

Pakistan

US$

Month

Kilo

Month

Kilo

Sep-17

$1.12

$1.33

$1.52

Sep-17

$2.43

$1.78

$1.54

Oct-17

$1.12

$1.32

$1.54

Oct-17

$2.41

$1.66

$1.57

Nov-17

$1.10

$1.33

$1.49

Nov-17

$2.41

$1.62

$1.66

Dec-17

$1.12

$1.27

$1.43

Dec-17

$2.39

$1.72

$1.70

Jan-18

$1.15

$1.27

$1.49

Jan-18

$2.44

$1.82

$1.74

Feb-18

$1.18

Feb-18

$2.48

$1.75

$1.70

1 Month

0.02

0.09

$1.36

-0.07

$1.43

1 Month

0.05

-0.07

-0.03

1 Month (%)

1.94%

6.75%

-4.43%

1 Month (%)

1.96%

-3.61%

-1.95%

3 Month (%)

5.27%

6.64%

-0.34%

1 Year (%)

12.37%

-1.76%

0.76%

3 Month (%)

3.81%

2.07%

0.29%

1 Year (%)

6.91%

-1.49%

-1.20%

Cotton prices have roughly back to lower levels closer to the price of the end of 2017 in India and Pakistan, in February, if as average prices over the month. Prices have not really changed in China for nearly 6 months.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Table 3 shows that Pakistani spinning mills enjoy the highest spread of cotton and yarn price. India also enjoys the better spread. The manufacturers’ spread is lowest in case of China.

Exhibition Review

Global Cotton Summit 2018 showcased the progress of Bangladesh cotton spinning industry Md. Imranul Islam The “Global Cotton Summit 2018”, organized by Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA) in association with Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) on 23 and 24 February, at Hotel Radisson Blu, showcased the best practices of Bangladesh cotton spinning industry which resulted in becoming the largest cotton importer in the world. BCA is projecting on the import of 7.7 million bales by the year 2021. In order to get maximum benefit and output from the local cotton industry, this global summit committee invited industry experts from all over the world to participate in Open Floor Discussions, Business Sessions, Business Matchmaking with global partners and showcased the progress Bangladesh have made in the cotton industry.

Figure 1: From left , ICA President Mirza Salman Isaphani ; BTMA Vice President Mohammad Ali Khokon; Global Summit organizing Chairman Mohammad Ayub; State Minister of Textile and Jute Mirza Azam; Finance Minister Abul Mal Abdul Muhit; Bangladesh Cotton Association President Mehdi Ali, BTMA President Tapan Chowdhury and FBCCI President Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin were present at Global Cotton Summit 2018.

Mehdi Ali, President of Bangladesh cotton Association, delivered a welcome speech where he said, “We are working for exploration the new sources for secured sourcing. Almost forty-six percent cotton is sourced from India.” Mehdi Ali also said, “Africa will be the next destination of cotton sourcing for Bangladesh. At present, we import almost twenty percent cotton from Africa. In spite of having strong backward strong linkages industries, we can meet only one percent of annual cotton demand by domestic cotton production. Our intention is creating reliable and long-term relation among cotton business stakeholders for sustainable

INDIA

AFRICA UZBEKISTAN

10 CIS

USA

OTHER

Figure 2: Near 50 percent of Bangladesh cotton imports come from India. Figure in %. (Source: BCA)

cotton business in our country.’’ Muhammad Ayub, Chairman of summit organizing committee, said “Cotton was originated before 7000 years ago in Mexico. If cotton is out of my hand, what will be the future of our next generation? In 2009-2010, a rumor spread in our country that cotton was going to be unavailable within a short time in the world market due to improper market forecast, improper buyer and merchant’s cooperation, insuﬃcient knowledge of the market. As a result, the cotton price was increased 60 cents to 2-dollar 60 percent. But, the cotton price was remained normal within a short time.” “This circumstance ruined and eradicated a lot of cotton trader, indenter business in our country. In order to mitigate the scenario and further precaution steps to prevent our cotton business from such kind of inconvenience, we are organizing global cotton summit every year after 2009-2010 incidence,” he said. Muhammad Ayub added that we are making collaboration with USDA, ICAC to make our cotton business sustainable. We proposed inter-ministry committee between agriculture ministry and textile ministry to solve the cotton-related problems. We must focus on smart textiles because expertise predicts that smart textile market will be progressed into Filthen thousand dollar in 2025’’ Mohammad Ali khokon, Vice president of BTMA, said, “We are successful to meet up 98% of our knit

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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Exhibition Review

yarn demand. However, we are successful to 40% of woven yarn demand. It is time for us to be focused on product diversification for the sustainable spinning sector.’’ Tapan Chowdhury, President of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), “Due to frequent price ﬂuctuations, our members are often faced serious challenges to maintain procurement schedules and also comply with terms and conditions of the trade. Speculative manipulation, sudden export ban, lack of understanding between the importing mills and suppliers also create problems among trading relationship.” Tapan Chowdhury added that Bangladesh is gradually becoming the most attractive destination for sourcing Textile and Apparel. It is praiseworthy that globally renowned apparel retailers are aiming at us to be a preferred source for apparel supply. Bangladesh has focused on raising it’s RMG exports to $50 billion by 2021 and this can be achieved through wellcoordinated investment and other business programs. At present, investment in the primary sector is over US$ 7 Billion. In the process of this growth, Tapan Chowdhury thanked the government for extending monetary, fiscal and other support at different times. However, in recent times, investment in this sector has declined mainly due to the availability of adequate gas, energy, and quality power supply including hassle-free land. “The gas deficit is also a major concern to the primary textile sector. We hope the government’s initiative to import with a view to overcoming this will be implemented in a timely manner, said Tapan Chowdhury.

Figure 3: At the end of the summit, a cultural program was held.

Md. Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, President of FBCCI, Said, “Many industries are working on occupational safety, compliance issue, and sustainability. Good news that Bangladesh bears 7 green certified industry out of 10.” “With a view to attaining $50 billion RMG export, we need adequate facilities, banking facilities, and sound infrastructure. If forward linkages industry is developed, backward linkage industries will be developed within a short time. In 2004, world bank forecasted that we are not capable to attain

developed country status. However, our entrepreneur proved the forecast was wrong. Now, we are in the way of developing country’’. Mirza Azam, State Minister, Ministry of Textile and Jute said ‘’ we are working in research and development sector and trying to reduce our dependency towards

Figure 4: Mirza Azam, State Minister, Ministry of Textile and Jute.

abroad to provide high-quality cotton. We are successful to legislate the cloth act for the first time in our country after liberation war. We have a plan to establish a lot of textile engineering college and textile institute in every district to provide skilled manpower towards textile sector for better output. We are going to run viscose yarn production from jute for the first time in our country. If we are successful in large-scale production this will create a great milestone for textile sector’’ Mirza Salman Ispahani, President, ICA, said ‘’ We are working with several cotton-related organizations for secured cotton business all over the world. We are working merchant directly for the betterment of the cotton business. We are seriously taking the arbitration for safe and reliable cotton business for people. We are also creating skilled manpower, spreading newest technology about cotton production and provide a training program for farmer and researcher. Chief Guest of the summit, Abul Maal Abdul Muhit said ‘’ Government is working for the betterment of textile sector. To ensure the continuous supply of cotton towards the textile sector, we should eradicate the sugarcane business completely because this business completely profits less. We should look forward to cotton production instead of tobacco production in our country’’ Actually, this summit was two-day long sessions where a lot of sessions were there such as panel discussion and paper presentation. This summit was a successful initiative of BCA and BTMA that was created the possibility collaboration among researcher, Merchants and indenters in one platform for secured cotton business in our country.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Consumer behaviour, fast fashion, and sustainability MM Uddin There are some habits that turn into an addiction and those could be destructive and dangerous. Such phenomenon is visible in America and European fashion retail market through the last

few months. For the sake of maximizing the profit and fulfill sensual pleasure, some of the world’s fast fashion retailers made ‘fancy taste consumers’ in the fashion market so that nearly three-fifths of all clothing produced ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made. It was disheartening news for the designers. It happened not only for low fashion products it also happened for high-end design products. There has been a very embodied relation with upcoming design and designers, but now reality is quite different. For the fulfillment of fast fashion, consumer demands the fashion designers are working under pressure to produce new design overnight. So the designers are losing creativity. People are expending a huge amount of money to buy new fashion clothes every weekend or every month. A heart-breaking statistic came from a McKinsey & Company October 2016 report titled “Sustainability & Resource

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Productivity.” The report showed that the number of garments produced annually became double since 2000 and exceeded 100 billion pieces for the first time in 2014: nearly 14 new apparel items for every person on Earth. For a nice and wishful cloth when you can use a long time and that could be called sustainable fashion and it is possible that those clothes can go beyond the latest trend. Latest trend creates an unfair competition to show up who is nobler lineage, modern and rich. However, they cast in the shadow and lose the substance that also creates the environmental crisis. Sierra Club, Earth fast, Greenpeace, and 1% of the plant also other international and national organizations are fighting against the fast fashion. They are trying to create demand for ecofriendly and sustainable fashion. On the other hand, the fast fashion stores multiplied by churning out new fashions at a dizzying pace, as often as twice a week. So, the consumers are either throwing out the garments in the landfills or donating clothes to charities. In New York, Fashion Week in

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

2018, one of the great designers, Nicholas K, Alejandro Jodorowsky said with environmental concerns, “Fall/Winter 2018 Peruvianinspired collection reﬂects the brand’s desire that “creativity should be an elevating force” and sustainability part of the company’s “conscious design.” A recent Cotton Council International and Cotton Incorporated Global Environment research showed the result as figure 1. The figure shows sustainability or environmental and 79 percent uses recycled garments.

CONCERN ABOUT SUSTAINABLE CLOTHES BUYING 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%

Italy, Mexico, China and India

Environmental friendliness

U.S, U.K and Germany

Quality Concern

Fit

Comfort

Price

Figure 1: Factors affecting consumer behaviour in different countries. Sustainability is not as considered as other factors.

concerns do not dominate consumer-buying decisions. However, consumer awareness for sustainable products is increasing day by day. The research also said that in the U.S., which generates 70 percent of its economic growth through consumer spending, just 55 percent of consumers reduce their consumption of goods

and 65 percent uses recycled clothes or textiles as part of their environmental practices, which is lower than the UK where 61 percent are reducing consumption and 73 percent are using recycled apparel. However, the better position griped by India, Mexico, and China, where 78 percent are reducing consumption of goods

THE BIGGEST PROPONENTS OF BUYING CLOTHES AT FAST FASHION STORES

100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0% US Gen Z Shoppers, USA

Millennial, Italy

FF Brand

Gen Xers, Europe

Boomers, Mexico

H&M, Zara, India

Uniqio, China

FF Consumer Coutries

Figure 2: Market leader in Fast Fashion (FF) brands and market share of Fast Fashion in the corresponding country.

According to the research, as explained in Figure 2, the most fast fashion popular sellers of the world are Uniqlo (21%), H&M-Zara (18%), US Gen Z Shoppers (16%), Millennial (11%), Gen Xers (2%) and Boomers (1%). On the other hand, When country-wise market share of fast fashion is considered, the USA is number one, 88% people of the USA like to use fast fashion, 49% of Italian prefer fast fashion, 46% of Europeans’, 27% of Mexicans’, 25% of Indian and 21% of Chinese. China, India, and Mexican people are more concern about the environment rather than Europe, Italy & USA. The USA is a nation of self-interest, they never care about the environment so that the US consumers are showing lowest interest to buy sustainable apparel than other countries like the UK. Now-a-days when sustainable fashion is becoming a major issue in the fashion market, the use of natural fibres like cotton, wool and silk is increasing and playing an important role in countries like India (89 percent), Mexico (84 percent), Italy (83 percent), China (73 percent) and Germany (70 percent) fashion market. This percentage and awareness will be increased day by day to make a sustainable greener world for the fashion lovers.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Industry Insight

Number of female workers declining in RMG sector Staﬀ Correspondent Female workers participation in Bangladesh readymade garments sector is decreasing due to the automation of manufacturing, finds a survey conducted by Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD). According to the survey, female workers’ participation ratio in the garment sector was 60.8 percent in 2016 that was 64 percent in 2015. A dialogue titled “Ongoing Upgradation in RMG Enterprises: Results from a Survey” held on 3rd March where CPD shared the findings of an interim report based on an enterprise and worker level survey in Bangladesh’s RMG enterprises conducted under its study titled ‘New Dynamics in Bangladesh’s Apparels Enterprises: Perspectives on Restructuring, Upgradation, and Compliance Assurance’. The survey, which was done within 2270 workers of 193 factories, said that Bangladesh readymade garments sector has developed in socially including compliance,

safety, and security but in the economic arena, its development is not satisfactory.

owners think female workers are not able to handle modern machinery properly.

The report reveals that the share of female workers are slowly rising in grade III, IV and V, while the percentage remains very marginal in top grades such as Grade I and II. About 47 percent of large enterprises and 25 percent of medium enterprises use advanced technology but the small enterprises are still lagging in terms of technology. Female workers were proportionately found to be less knowledgeable about operating different machines compared to their male peers.

According to the survey, the average yearly growth of employment in the sample enterprises during 2012-16 was 3.3 percent, down from 4.01 percent during 2005-2012. About 50 percent of the managers have a postgraduate degree and 20 percent of them have graduation degree, where a large number of the managers graduated in disciplines which have little relevant with management and operation of the industrial enterprise.

As per the survey findings, there is a 3% gap between male and female wage but it is at a limited level. The average monthly wage of male workers is Tk7,270, while it is Tk7,058 for female workers. Khondaker Golam Moazzem, Research Director of the CPD said that female workers’ participation is declining because the factory

Survey also found that, high level of gender imbalance in the management position between male and female professionals. Sex

Managers HR Managers

Male

190

Female Total

176

191

193

Table 1: Showing comparison between male and female professionals in Managerial position. (Source: CPD-RMG study 2017-18)

The survey found about 16 percent of the sample enterprises have employed foreign staff. According to the survey result, the workers’ monthly wage on average is Tk 7,270 for male and Tk 7,058 for female, excluding the bonuses. Department Merchandising

Section wise share of total foreign staﬀ 20.1%

Figure1: Professor Rahman Sobhan, Chairman, CPD delivered his keynote speech in the program.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Industry Insight

Production, Planning

37.3%

Sewing Department

3.0%

Knitting Department

3.0%

Washing Department

8.2%

Quality Assurance

11.9%

Finishing and Packing

0.7%

Maintenance Department

2.2%

Admin

6.0%

Industrial Engineering

6.0%

Research and Development

1.0%

Total oﬃcer

100%

Table2: Foreign staffs working in different sections where Production (Source: CPD survey 2017-18)

According to the survey, most of the firms have workers’ participation committees (WPC); trade unions are almost nonexistent in only 3.3 percent of the

“Garments industry has been developed 100 percent in compliance area, but we have some gap of negotiation skills with buyer.” -Siddiqur Rahman, President, BGMEA

surveyed factories. According to labor law of 2013, members of the WPC shall be elected by votes. We hope that minimum wage board would finalize a wage for the workers considering workers needs and industry owner’s strengths. Every year we were provided 5 percent increment for our workers said, Siddiqur Rahman.

Secretary General of IndustriALL Bangladesh Council, said that real trade unions were not being formed in the RMG sector due to various reasons. Currently, the total trade union is 650, Babul added. “Workers salary should increase to 16000 Tk. Where 10000 Tk will be the main salary as day by day cost of everything is increasing. Babul also said that the government should consider the social safety issue of workers. “We are working for the human capital development of our workers to adopt the new technology,” said, Fazlee Shamim Ehasan, ManagingDirector, Fatullah Apparels and Vice President of BKMEA. “Poor infrastructure, Ineﬃcient port, gas, and energy are the present problem of the RMG sector,” he added.

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Market Analysis

Bangladesh’s exports to Germany is higher than that of US market in Jul-Feb Staﬀ Correspondent

Germany, the second largest export destination for Bangladeshi apparel after the United States, recently has once again emerged as Bangladesh’s largest export market in July-February of the current fiscal 2017-18 due to negative growth in readymade garments export to US market. According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), export earnings from Germany in the July-February period of FY2017-18 stood at $3.92 billion, which is $23.22 million higher than earnings from the US $3.90 billion in the same period. Data of EPB showed that earlier, Germany had overtaken the US for the first time as Bangladesh’s largest export market for the July-November period of 2016-17 fiscal and then the US regained its position as the country’s largest export destination. EPB data showed, at the end of 2016-17 fiscal, export earnings from the US stood at $5.84 billion while the earnings from Germany were $5.47 billion. Earnings from Germany in exporting RMG in the first eight months of the FY 2017-18 were $3.70 billion, which is $216.73 million higher than the earnings from the US $3.48 billion in the same period. Experts and exporters said that we should take moves to regain US market and the government should provide policy support considering the change in global perspectives.

Spain

France Italy

Canada Japan Netherlands Poland china

India

FY-2016-17 3784

Germany USA 3840

2293

1318

1235

957

678

703

661

513

630

468

FY2017-18

3900

2698

1639

1300

1069

737

731

830

641

459

531

3923

FY-2016-17

FY2017-18

Figure 1: Export earnings from major destinations (in millions of $).

$468.25 million in the same period of FY2016-17.

“Bangladesh loses US market due to lack of strong backward linkage industry for woven products and failure in maintaining lead time,”

Mohammad Hatem, 1st Vice President of BKMEA, said, “Last two years our export in the US market is declined due to a lower price. As they are offering us a lower price so that we are taking more orders from other countries like Germany.”

-Abdus Salam Murshedy, President of Exporters Association of Bangladesh

According to the EPB data, export earnings from Canada in the eight months of FY 2017-18 grew by 8.64 percent to $737.27 million from $678.61 million in the same period of FY2016-17. Exports to China fell by 27.20 percent to $459.11 million from $630.66 million in the same period of FY2016-17. Export earnings from India grew by 13.60 percent to $531.97 million from

Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director of Desh Garments Ltd, said, “Associations like BGMEA, BKMEA should do accurate research to know why the demand for garments from Bangladesh in America has fallen. That research can help us to solve those issues.” From the UK, the third highest export destination for Bangladesh, in the July-February period of fiscal 2017-18 export increased by 17.66 percent to $2.70 billion from $2.29 billion in the same period of fiscal 2016-17.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

S&D Chemicals (Pvt.) Ltd

1st South Asian Chemical Manufacturer to acheive Blue Sign systems partnership CREATING SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

Head Office :

Bangladesh Office :

S & D Chemicals (Pvt.) Ltd. Block â&#x20AC;&#x201C;A,Biyagama EPZ, Biyagama,Sri Lanka Tel : +94-11-4515225 Fax : +94-11-4515545 Hotline : +94-71-4883939 Email : admin@sdchemlanka.com Web : www.sdcheme.com

Redox Chemical Industries Ltd. Flat-3A, House-39, Road-15 (Rabindra Sarani) Sector -3, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh. Tel : + 8802 48955370 Fax : + 880258952990 Hotline : +8801713464468 Email : info@redoxbd.com Web : www.sdcheme.com

Obituary

Top textile talents of the country died in fire blast from gas leak Desk Report Top four textile talents, the passing out students of Khulna University of Engineering and Technology (KUET), Department of Textile Engineering was killed by a major gas explosion in a six-story building on 25 March at midnight in Bhaluka of Mymensingh. The students were lodging there at night while they were in internship program in Square Fashions Ltd. Towhidul Islam was killed in the accident on the spot. And other three died while getting treatment of the burns in Dhaka Medical College Hospital Burn Unit in Dhaka. Among the killed students 3 were within the best 50 of Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18. The competition

TTH ID

Name

Merit position in written test of TTH 2017-18

2004

Md. Towhidul Islam 37th

2008

Md. Hafizur Rahman

27th

2023

Md. Shahin Mia

20th

TTH selects best textile engineering students from almost all textile educational institutes throughout the country. All of the four victims of the incident were among the top scorers in their department in KUET.Towhidul Islam, Hafizur Rahman, Shahin Mia and Deepto Sarker were four who lodged the house for a short term for their internship program in Square Fashions Ltd. The house later exploded

out of gas stock emitted from probable leaks in the connections, police, and others from the spot told to Media. Towhidul Islam was killed on the spot. On 29th and 30th, March Shahin Mia and Hafizur Rahman died at the burn unit of Dhaka Medical College Hospital (DMCH). All of them were among best 50 talents of Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18. Deepto Sarker died in the morning of 31st March 2018. We already formed an inspection team from university and after inspection, we will file a case against building owners said, Abdul Jalil, Head, Department of Textile Engineering, KUET. Media reported that the gas connection of the house was illegal. According to Mamun, oďŹ&#x192;cer-in-charge of Bhaluka Model Police Station, an explosion inside the six-story building rocked the Masterbari area around 12:30 am 25th March. On information, police rushed in and found a room on the second ďŹ&#x201A;oor of the building badly damaged.

According to Square Textile Mills Ltd, four victims of the incident started their internship on 10th March and they were supposed to stay there until 5 April 2018. Textile Today and other partners of Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18 expressed deep mourn and obituary at the incident and conveyed condolences to the friends and family of all four dead talents.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Sustainable practices in wet processing of Northern Tosrifa Group, the industry best practice Md. Masudur Rahman

Bangladesh Textile & Apparel industry is getting greener and sustainable. A number of the green and sustainable LEED certified industries recently been established here aiming to make Bangladesh safest place to produce sustainabletextiles and apparel products. However,reducingprofitability has been a great concern for the industry. Factories here in Bangladesh is struggling to remain competitive and maintaining global stringent compliance requirements and keeping sustainability intact. However, there are best practices in the industry which could be learning for others. This story tells how a textile company here in Bangladesh as set number of benchmarks for others in terms of achieving sustainability by reducing cost and adding more value by improving quality and

reputation. Tosrifa Industries Ltd. is a knit composite mill. The company has implemented a number of sustainable technologies and processes which was thought to be impossible to apply for knit fabric in Bangladesh. The story is about Tosrifa Industries Ltd., a USBC LEED certified factory of Northern Tosrifa Group. Md. Habibur Rahman, Sr. DGM of Northern Tosrifa Group (Fabric Division), was sharing key aspects of the company in a keynote speech titled “Sustainable Practices in Wet Processing of Tosrifa Industries Ltd.” delivered in ‘The 3rdInternational Conference on Textile & Apparel, ICTA 2018’.The conference was jointly organized by Bangladesh Textile Today with The Textile Institute Bangladesh Section (TIBS) held in BICC, Dhaka on 8th February 2018.Textile Today Industry Correspondent has done

Figure: Md. Habibur Rahman, Sr. DGM of Northern Tosrifa Group was one of the keynote speakers in the 3rd ICTA 2018 presenting his company model of achieving a number of industry benchmarks.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

the necessary study by visiting the factory. The article reveals the inside story based on the speech of Mr. Rahman given in 3rd ICTA 2018. Md. Habibur Rahmanstarted his speech quoting a verse of Holy Quran “Eat and drink but waste not by extravagance” then he quoted from Holy Hadith “Don’t waste water, even if you were on the banks of a ﬂowing river”toshow the sustainability issue from the point of his belief. Expressing the motivation of Northern Tosrifa Group (NTG)’s sustainability practices he said,“From the very beginning of Northern Tosrifa Group we realized that the future trend of the industry will be sustainability. The company also feels that to become sustainable in business it is needed to think about the stakeholders. For Tosrifa Industries the stakeholders’ means not only the buyers and investors, it also means the people who run the industry, as well as the surrounding inhabitations of this area. Tosrifa Industries Ltd. is very much concern about the environmental impact on the people and the society.” “Tosrifa industry builds a strong code of ethics ofsustainability. Our garment division is already LEED, GOTS, ISO 14001 and REACH certified. Recently it launched‘Tosrifa Industries Limited (Fabric Division)’ located at Beraiderchala, Ansar Road, Sreepur, Gazipur on 20th November 2017. It is a LEED certified Green project. The whole project is equipped with modern machineryand energy eﬃcient

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Figure 2: Md Habibur Rahman, DGM, Northern Tosrifa Group (Fabric Division), with Textile Today Industry Correspondent (author of this article) in front of CPB dyeing machine.

setup,” he continued. Some sustainable practices of Tosrifa Industries Ltd.: 1. Singeing instead of bio-polishing Generally, Bio-Polishing requires huge water and chemicals that takes minimum 1 hour and 50°C to 80ºC temperature. It also adds process loss up to 7-8 percent (sometimes more than 10 percent) which is draining out direct money on the weight of the fabric. Therefore, the total minimum cost of bio-polishing is more than 20tk per kg including process loss. Most importantly bio-polishing reduces the strength of the fabric. Besides this when (bio-polished) enzyme fabric runs on stenter or compacting

Figure 4: ERBATECH continuous bleaching machine.

machines, the dyehouse becomes full of dust that causes health problem for the worker. Citing the above disadvantages of biopolishing, Mr. Habib said that they have eliminated the bio-polishing process. And now they do mechanical singing instead of that. Benefits of ‘Singing’ instead of ‘bio-polishing’are: 1. Total elimination of water and chemicals 2. Less weight and strength loss 3. No dust in finishing and cutting section 4. Minimize the process loss 5. Increase production rate up to 1600 kg fabric per hour.

2. Continuous bleaching Tosrifa Industries Ltd. has set an example in applying continuous process in knit fabric bleaching, dyeing & finishing. For achieving successful continuous process proper pre-treatment is a must. SCOUT pad-steam bleaching ranges from German company Erbatech has made it easy for the company. Now Tosrifa Industries can do scouring and bleaching any cellulosic fabric, producing a constant and homogeneous base product for later dyeing or printing. Pad-steam bleaching achieves a high degree of white with less production costs compared to the traditional discontinuous over-ﬂow technology, amongst many other advantages such as; • High reproducibility, • Product homogeneity (no tailing), • Low fiber loss (no enzymatic biopolishing), • Shiny and improved fabric surface (no pilling), • Low water, steam,and power consumption.

Figure 3: ‘Singing’ instead of ‘bio-polishing’ eliminates water and chemical use and give a better quality, better strong fabric. More importantly it gives a clean healthy environment for workers.

Mr. Habib explains told that our factory is using ERBATECH machine, which isuser-friendly. In continuous bleaching, the initial investment is high but per unit cost is lower and can sustain economically in long run.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

One of the Market leaders in manufacturing knit dyers and finishers. MODERN CONCEPTS FOR PAD-STEAM BLEACHING

Nip dyeing

COLD PAD – BATCH DYEING The latest technology introduces, advanced control system with graphical process visualization.

Advantages: ∠ Low utility consumption

∠ High flexibility

∠ No curled-in edges

∠ Outstanding machine quality

∠ No tension (no longitudinal stretching)

∠ Simple operation and control due to clear design

∠ Excellent and reproducible dyeing results

∠ Know-how support by Erbatech

ERBATECH GmbH

Werner-von-Siemens-Str. 30, 64711 Erbach, Germany T : +49 (0) 60 62/ 9 51-0, E : info@erbatech.de W : www.erbatech.com

MAXCHOICE COMMERCE & TECHNOLOGY ( Innovation & Quality ) House # 31 (Ground Floor), Road # 05, Block # A, Banasree, Dhaka-1219 T : +88 02 8396394 E : sales@maxchoicebd.com W : www.maxchoicebd.com

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Table 1: Comparison between continuous and conventional bleaching the Tosrifa Industries experiences. Utility

Continuous

Conventional

Water consumption

12L/Kg of Fabric

24L/Kg of Fabric

Steam Consumption

1Kg/Kg of Fabric

1.8 Kg/Kg of Fabric

Electricity Consumption

0.1 kW/Kg of Fabric

0. 125KW/Kg of Fabric

3. Cold pad-batch (CPB)dyeing CPB dyeing attempts the utmost cost-effective and advantageous approach of dyeing cotton with reactive dyestuffs. The elimination of salt addition also supports the minimum energy and water consumptions; hence rendering it more eco-friendly and fixation of dye is also high.

8. Less pressure of eﬄuent in ETP 9. High reproducibility and minimum re-work, 10. High ﬂexibility in batch size (from color samples up to 1.000 kg batches).

The requirement of CPB dyeing of knit fabric 1. The pretreatment should be homogeneous and proper. 2. Absorbency need to be excellent thus it absorbs water below 1 second 3. pH should be neutral 4. No residual peroxide (2-3 ppm)

Challenges of CPB Dyeing 1. Require good quality combed compact yarn 2. Lab to bulk reproducibility – need to setup bulk like a lab environment 3. Diﬃculties in shade correction 4. Listing ( left center and right side of fabric shade need to control) 5. Requires selective types of dyestuff and chemicals (Low to medium substantive dyes needed, need to manage dyes trigonometry) 6. Applicable only for cellulosic materials

Figure 5: Cold pad-batch (CPB) dye padder from Erbatech in operation in Tosrifa Industries Ltd.

“In the initial stage of CPB dyeing it was very challenging, so our management thought to hire a foreign expert to run the project. However, we were trying to learn the process. Our chemical suppliers and machine suppliers helped us in this regards and finally, we succeeded,” Said Mr. Habib. “In dye bath, there are water, fabrics,and dyestuff. In exhaust dyeing, 60% to 75% dyes are fixed on fabric, residual 25%40% dyes got hydrolyzed and could not react with fabric due to higher liquor ratio. In CPB dyeing M:L is 1:1, so the dye pickup is up to 95%-97%,” he explained.It saves around 20% dyeing cost. There are some risk to be controlled and we in Tosrifa Industries Ltd. doing it perfectly, he added.

5. Brightness CI value for dark color 75-80, for light color 80-85 Features of CPB dyeing 1. M:L = 1:1 2. No steam required 3. Total elimination of Salt, hence less TDS in ETP 4. No anti-creasing agent required. Shiny fabric surface without crease marks. 5. More lustrous fabric compared to conventional process. Suitable for delicate fabrics. 6. Around 95% - 97% exhaustion of Reactive Dyes 7. Less friction as a result less fuzz created on the fabric surface. No need for enzymatic biopolishing.

MR. Marzan Hossain, CEO of Maxchoice Commerce & Technology who is providing sales and technical support for Erbatech in Bangladesh told that for better result in CPB dyeing bleaching has to be done in continuous process. Washing could be carried out in continuous bleaching machine or in separate washing machine. If a factory install one CPB machine then we recommend 1 CPB padder & 1 continuous bleaching range- this machine could perform both bleaching and washing. If the factory installs two CPB padders then we prefer one dedicated bleaching and washing machine. Northern Tosrifa Group currently has one CPB setup, another CPB machine with dedicated washing ranges is in the processing.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Table 2: Comparison between CPB and Exhaust Dyeing Process the Tosrifa Industries Ltd. experience: Utility

CPB

Exhaust

Water consumption

1 L/Kg of fabric

22 L/Kg of fabric

Steam consumption

No steam require

1Kg/Kg of fabric

Power consumption

0.034Kw/Kg of fabric

0.072Kw/Kg of fabric

washing 5. Steam generation “The natural gas supply is becoming very uncertain in Bangladesh. The government could not supply it on demand.

CPB can lead the industry towards zero discharge Experts in the sectorhave told that for 20-ton dyeing it needs 12-14 ton boiler, but in CPB it just needs 2-3 ton capacity boiler. WTP and ETP size need to be half. MR. Marzan Hossain, CEO of Maxchoice Commerce & Technology told to this reporter that in future when zero discharge will be implemented CPB will be the solution. We know salt (TDS) is the main barrier for being zero discharge. Salt recovery is very expensive. CPB dyeing does not need any salt. It saves the environment and the running cost will be lower and the quality is much better. MR. Marzan Hossain, added that there is a misconception among the industry that CPB is not suitable for medium to light shade. Woven fabric dyeing is much more diﬃcult than knit fabric dyeing. In the world more than 60% - 70% woven fabric dyed in CPB machine, if they could make it happen why not we? CPB can handle any lot size of shade from 10 kg to above.

Figure 6: Continuous washing machine in Tosrifa Industries Ltd.

machines which are universal in application from high sensitive elastic fabrics to heavy and sturdy technical fabrics. Erbatech SCOUT washing ranges can be used for all main washing processes such as;Preparation (de-oiling) washing before heat setting, washing after dyeing and washing after rotary or digital printing. Features of continuous washing 1. No wash-off is used but neutralization 2. Water consumption 10-12 L/Kg

Nip dyeing:

3. Less hairiness on fabric

Ebrtech padder has Nip dyeing system, so tailing problem is eliminated.

4. Excellent color fastness to rubbing and wash

Pneumatic control:

5. Excellent wet fastness

Ebrtech padder is controlled pneumatically. So listing problem is under controlled.

6. Less chance of color bleeding in yarn dyed fabric washing

4. Continuous Washing “There is no need for special wash off, while neutralization with acid it washed away unfixed dyes as well.The combined neutralization and wash off starts at 95°C and gradually it degrades to 40°C - 50°C room temperature,” Mr. Habib told.Thanks to the Erbatech

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Therefore, now we are using Natural Husk from paddy as fuel for generating steam from the boiler. We collect itfrom nearest rice mills and they have ample of stock. However, it is not soeconomical as compared to gas, but we are replacing it with a sustainable supply of fuel”, Said Mr. Habib.Ash from the boiler is being used as fertilizer, he added. They alsocollect condensed steamed water and feedback in the boiler feed watertank, which already has enough heat approximately 70°C to 75°C. Therefore, it consumes less energy to generate steam again. This is another great example of reusereduce-recycle. 6. ETP

7. No crease mark on the fabric for

“In biological ETP bacteria grows, that eliminates the hazardous chemicals so there is no need For 1Kg of Fabric (Wet processing) of any chemicals. We use Table 3: Comparison between ‘Continuous dung to grow bacteria. Dung Washing’ and ‘Exhaust Dyeing Process’, the is available in Bangladesh and Tosrifa Industries Ltd. experience: cost is lower than chemicals. Utility CPB Exhaust Sometimes it needs slightly Water consumption 25L 34L acid to control the alkalinity,” Steam consumption 1.5Kg 2.7Kg Said Mr. Habib. Contamination Electricity consumption 0.2KW 0.24KW load on our ETP is very less as

Volume 11, Issue 03

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Fast fashion giant H&M itself become victim of FF trends, struggling with $4.3 billion of unsold clothes Md Masudur Rahman

Figure 7: Biological ETP Plant.

we are using continuous processes and CPB dyeing. 6. Tosrifa Industries do rainwaterharvesting. It has 180000 Liter rainwater collection capacity to soft water reserve tank. 7. “The building is LEED certified, has enough scope to enter daylight. We set the skylight panel in the roof, which scattered the daylight to the entire shade. Inside of the shade is so bright that it feels there is no roof upon the head,” Mr. Habib added. Using skylight during daytime is saving 360KW/Day. 8. In the rooftop of Tosrifa

In the world of fashion retailing, where shopping is fast moving online and stores try to keep inventories closely matched to sales, even a small stack of unsold clothes can be a burden. One of the largest Fast Fashion giants in the H&M itself become a victim of fast changes of fashion and its impact on the business. The report has revealed that H&M has a mammoth $4.3 billion pile of shirts, dresses, and accessories, which is struggling with a mounting stack of unsold inventory. In the competition of changing the collections every week, FF brands had to free their stores replacing so-called old (Maybe like one-month-old) garments. When fashion is being refilled so fast, stalks of solid waste is increasing not only on the earth, now we see how the warehouses of FF brands are also struggling with those unsold products. H&M outlined the buildup in its latest quarterly report on 27th March, raising questions of whether the company is able to adapt to the fierce competition and changing consumer demands reshaping the global apparel market. The decline was the first in two decades. The company said in their report, the pile of unsold stock had grown 7 percent in the

Figure 8: Natural daylight keeps shiny and brighter dyeing ﬂoor.

Industries, they have put solar panel that is adding50KW to the main grid, which helps to fulfill the demand for energy.

past year and was now worth nearly 35 billion Swedish kronor. Analysts have been pressing KarlJohan Persson, the company’s chief executive, over the issue. Inventory levels were up. H&M was opening 220 new stores and expanding its e-commerce operations, and so needed to fill the racks said, Karl-Johan. According to the report, operating profit fell 62 percent in the three months through February, sending its shares to their lowest closing price since 2005 on the Stockholm stock exchange. But while luxury brands have enjoyed a rebound in fortunes in recent months, fueled by millennial appetite and a recovery in demand from the lucrative Chinese market, mass-market companies have had to deal with enormous changes. In the digital era, particularly as growing numbers of shoppers choose to buy from their smartphones and become more quality conscious. Analysts have been downbeat on the Swedish company’s outlook. Rahul Sharma, the founder of Neev Capital, called H&M “a slow-motion wreck” after the release of the first-quarter results H&M has insisted it has a plan, saying it would slash prices to reduce the stockpile and slow its expansion in stores. It said it hoped its online business would expand 25 percent this year.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Zaber & Zubair presents latest fabrics at Texworld 2018

Desk Report

One of the major Bangladeshi garments exporters Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd., a sister concern of Noman Group, participated in the biggest international trade fair for fabrics Texworld 2018 held from 11 to 14 February 2018 at Messe Frankfurt in Paris.

Other 20 global textile mills exhibited their product in the elite zone, where Zaber & Zubair was only the Bangladeshi company.

Figure 2: Abdullah Mohammad Zaber, Deputy Managing Director, Noman Group delivered a speech at the sharing session Figure 1: A team from Zaber & Zubair Fabric Ltd. participated at the Texworld 2018 at Messe Frankfurt in Paris.

Zaber & Zubair attended with their competitive and dedicated team members to explore the new market. They successfully completed this fair with its SS 19 fabric development. It also exhibited an especial category of fabrics that was designed completely by its own creative design team. Zaber & Zubair has elevated its position into the elite zone by Messe Frankfurt management.

Recently the company arranged a success sharing session where Syed Moshkoor Ali, General Manager (Marketing) has been rewarded by Zaber & Zubair management for his outstanding performance in January of this year. This March, Zaber & Zubair is going to launch the second season of their Fabric Week with its SS 19 development. This announcement was oﬃcially declared in this success sharing session.

Archroma appoints Marcos Furrer as president of brand & performance of textile specialties Desk Report

taste for delivering on targets.

On 8 March, Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, announced the appointment of Marcos Furrer to the post of President Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, and Innovation, based in Archroma’s headquarters in Reinach, Switzerland. Marcos Furrer will take over from Thomas Winkler who will retire at the end of March 2018 after more than 30 years in the textile industry, among which 12 years at the helm of the business. Announcing the appointment, Archroma CEO Alexander Wessels said, “Marcos Furrer was rather an obvious choice when we started to look for a potential successor for Thomas Winkler. He has the right combination of strong textile 50

Figure: Marcos Furrer

expertise and leadership skills that we need to drive the business in line with Archroma’s ambitious growth strategy.” A Swiss national with a 20 years career, Mr. Furrer has earned a strong reputation as a wellrounded business manager with excellent leadership skills and a

Mr. Furrer, Chemical Engineer from the Ingenieurschule Beider Basel, started his career with Clariant in Switzerland as Product Manager Sulphur Dyes, Textile Business, in 1997. He then grew in the organization as Head of Continuous Dyeing Cellulosic (1999 to 2001); Head of Business Unit (BU) Textile Dyes and Textile Chemicals in México (2001 to 2005); Global Head for the Product Group Cellulosic Dyes (2005 to 2007), Head of BU Textile Chemicals Latin America (2007 to 2009); Head of BU Textile Chemicals Americas (2009 to 2012); Head of Emulsions (January 2012 to June 2012); and Head of Marketing and Sales Plastic and Special Applications, BU Pigments (January 2013 to 2015).

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

angladesh B needs to invest in country-branding to uplift image of textile and RMG industry…… Md. Fazlul Hoque, Managing Director, Plummy Fashions Ltd.

Bangladesh was losing its reputation to international apparel market after Rana Plaza and Tazreen Fashion incidents. Some local entrepreneurs thought deeply to rescue the image of the country’s RMG industry. Md. Fazlul Hoque, Managing Director of Plummy Fashions Ltd, is one them who are the pioneers of enumerates the successes and challenges of sustainable development for the Bangladesh textile and clothing industry. He has 20 years of versatile experience in knitwear industry and led many organizations from various role including BKMEA, BEF, IAF etc. He was shocked for these unexpected incidents

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Figure 1: Plummy Fashions Ltd.

and motivated to rebuild its trustworthiness and brand image. He established a groundbreaking industry Plummy Fashions Ltd, which is now a milestone as the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest rated green knitwear factory. Plummy Fashions Ltd (PFL) located in Narayanganj, 20 kilometers south from Dhaka city center has set an example of green industry in textile world. The site is 5.5 acres, sensitively landscaped with a combination of award winning designed buildings and 3 acres of tranquil gardens has commenced a ground breaking project. PFL strives for sustainable and accountable business practices in Bangladesh and is establishing the definitive business model that manufactures and customers can follow for the benefit of everyone.

Textile Today: How can we brand Bangladesh RMG industry? Fazlul Hoque: Branding is very much important for a business. It is badly needed for our RMG industry. Country branding is more important to establish industry branding. When a country has positive branding then industry gets benefits from it automatically. Unfortunately, our country has a negative branding to the world, which is our basic weakness. There are many positive things we achieved but these are not

highlighted and not impressed positively due to negative country branding. When topic is about Bangladesh RMG industry, then it is highlighted that Bangladesh is the country of Rana plaza massacre or country of Tazreen tragedy. We need a branding campaigns for one or two years long to establish our positive image collectively. Now industry owners are trying to establish it individually. However, it is not representing our whole industry scenario. Our major stakeholders like government,

Recently Fazlul Hoque shared his experiences and opinions on several issues, including branding apparel industry of Bangladesh, challenges of the industry and way of overcoming the challenges. Ariful Islam, Industry Correspondent of Textile Today reports the conversation. Figure3: Sewing section of Plummy Fashions Ltd.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Exclusive Interview

BGMEA, BKMEA, EPB etc. can take initiatives for branding activities. Our competitor India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia and others also have their country branding policy. It would be better if we can assign any third party foreign credible organization for doing such activities. It will be more effective and we should work on it.

Textile Today: What types of changes are required to continue success in this industry? Fazlul Hoque: Our growth rate was not satisfactory in the last financial year. There are many reasons behind it. We need to establish more new industry in order to continue growth. Now there is land crisis for building a new factory. Government should establish special zone for apparel industry. Uninterrupted utility supplies i.e. gas, electricity is increasing our production cost. New gas connection is almost stopped. Infrastructure is another barrier to establish new industry. It is not enough for existing business operations properly. BGMEA is negotiating with government but this should be strategic and result oriented to get quick feedback.

Textile Today: What Bangladesh could use for branding her? Fazlul Hoque: Bangladesh has many achievements, which can make us unique from others. We have now ensured our work place safety and security. There are 67 certified green buildings in our country and most of them are RMG industries. We have 8 LEED Platinum green factories. Our competitors do not have such number of green factories. Many other best practice achievements of textile and apparel manufacturing companies must be highlighted globally. Textile Today: How do you evaluate current status of Bangladesh RMG Industry after Accord and Alliance initiatives incase of work place safety? Fazlul Hoque: Accord and Alliance are playing a significant role for improving our work place safety. They have worked deeply for improving the condition of the industry. Now scenario is changed and our work place is very safe. Despite of these achievements, there is some dissatisfactions also among the RMG owners. Accord and Alliance are following theoretical rules for some cases but practically situation is different. Besides, factory owners do not have right to bargain or appeal against the decisions taken by two bodies. It is now imposed on them, which must be followed without any argument. There is no third party appealing authority to review Accord or Alliance decision if factory management thinks it can be reconsider or can manage by alternative way. There should be such neutral authority

Textile Today: What challenges are coming for this industry in coming days?

with expert people from other concerned field i.e. BUET, Fire Brigade etc. Textile Today: How entrepreneurs can take more initiatives for sustainability of RMG industry? Fazlul Hoque: For sustainability, our entrepreneurs have done many things. We are in the front line among any other RMG producing country but it is reďŹ&#x201A;ecting less. There was no requirement from buyer side to build green factory. Only requirement was for ETP (EďŹ&#x201E;uent Treatment Plant) to prevent harmful chemicals disposal to the environment. But our entrepreneurs have done it. Government should give incentives for green building to encourage the entrepreneurs. There is punishment rule in the government policy but on the other hand, reward also needs to include in the law. Then it will motivate us in ethical way.

Fazlul Hoque: Challenges are two types. One is inter-industry and another is global competition. Our product price is very low due to our negative branding. We have to develop our negotiation skills. We are always claiming that buyer is not giving us good price but we cannot avail it due to lack of our good negotiation skills and loosing huge amount of money. Nobody is willing to pay more if he can buy anything in a less price. We should adopt industry bargaining strategy and boost up our individual skills. This is not enough focused in our industry though this is very important. We could arrange training or experience sharing session to develop our negotiation skill. Another global challenge is our productivity, which is less among our other competitors. To improve productivity, it is important to have basic education for our lower and midlevel management. If they do not have basic education, they cannot learn from training. Some new countries are emerging to this business with latest technologies, which might be challenge for us.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Exclusive Interview

Internal challenges are utility, infrastructure etc. Our cost of doing business is very high which is increasing our product price whereas our competitor country’s cost of doing business is less than ours. Textile Today: How can we compete with our nearest competitors like Vietnam, India? Fazlul Hoque: Our closest competitors are very much skilled in negotiation. Their productivity and eﬃciency are very high. We have to focus on these things. It is said that we need to concentrate for high value items. However, it is diﬃcult for us. Lead-time is most important for high value items. In addition, order quantity is less. There are still many scopes for us to diversify our business in mid value and low value items as well. We are not addressing those opportunities. Our lead-time is also high than our competitors. We need 35-40 days lead-time to ship goods in Europe whereas other competitors need 15-20 days or maximum 25 days as voyage time. For these we cannot cope up with fast fashion. We badly need a deep-sea port to compete with other countries. Textile Today: What is our next potential market and how we can diversify our market? Fazlul Hoque: I think our next potential market could be our neighboring countries India and China but I am in doubt, how quickly we can explore it. Now a day, we are exporting to china and India through international brand. It has paved our way to enter the market. We have to focus on the local brands and retailers to increase our export. Other potential markets are Russia, South America which are needed to explore more. Textile Today: How LEED certification is helping you for branding your factory and how are you capitalizing on this.

Figure 5: Workers are busy at their work

has got the highest points and achieved world no one LEED Platinum certification. We have got huge help from our local media and international media as well. They helped us for branding. We also took help of our professional network. Now we are using this as our bargaining power with our clients. Certification always

Branding is a professional work. Branding has own style to establish its image to the target market. We should hire professional third party organization for our branding. We will get more benefit from it rather than our own publicity. Now we are trying to establish our own brand but when we assign other professional party for the industry branding, it will help us more.

helps to get good client and more orders but we need to ensure good service against it. Our client is happy with us and we are growing together. Textile Today: How Green factories could be an effective branding strategy? Fazlul Hoque: When a factory gets green or LEED certification, they achieve a good marketing tool. It depends on their own strategy how they are going to using it. However, strategy should be fixed very carefully, it should not be exaggerated. They should start promoting their achievements by their own or also can take professional help from any third party. As much as they can make publicity, it will help to make a brand. Textile Today: What else should be done for Branding Bangladesh Textile and Apparel? Fazlul Hoque: Branding is a professional work. Branding has own style to establish its image to the target market. We should hire professional third party organization for our branding. We will get more benefit from it rather than our own publicity. Now we are trying to establish our own brand but when we assign other professional party for the industry branding, it will help us more.

Fazlul Hoque: Plummy Fashion

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

C o m p l i a n c e To d a y

SDC summit creates awareness on chemical compliance in the textile supply chain Desk Report Society of Dyers and Colorist (SDC) organized an International summit on February 7, 2018, at Hotel Six Season in Dhaka aiming to create awareness about chemical compliance among three major sectors of the textile supply chain namely certification, coloration and fashion. The prestigious summit had a gathering of textile testing laboratories, brands and retailers, buyers, dye houses and academia’s where Bangladesh Textile Today was the media partner. Representatives from Switzerland, India, Sri Lanka, South Korea and Hong Kong were present where SDC President Dr. Prof K W Philip Yeung, BUFT Pro-Vice Chancellor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Dysin Managing Director Amanur Rahman, Rossari Biotech Country

Figure 2: SDC President, Dr. Prof K W Philip Yeung delivered his speech.

Head, Puneet Arora, and TUV Rheinland Bangladesh’s Managing Director Md Saiful Islam Khan were present among the attendees. Dr. Prof K W Philip Yeung presented a keynote on ‘Sustainability-A driver for fashion business growth’. He highlighted current situation of fashion industry saying “Consumers demand products at lower prices, fashion companies pressurize suppliers to produce a huge volume at a low price in tight deadlines.”

Figure 1: Distinguished guests and participants were present at SDC conference.

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Volume 11, Issue 03

He provided an overview on how sustainability as a concept is been adopted by various stakeholders of the textile industry. “Sustainability is one of the major directions 57

C o m p l i a n c e To d a y

in running a business. Brands requirements on environmental, social and chemical use are increasing. Good management and innovation can help you develop new business on sustainability areas,” Philip added.

- Holistic self-assessment - Measures environmental and social impacts - Starting place for engagement and understanding - Targets a spectrum of performance that identifies opportunities to improve Figure 3: the key concept of Higg Index of sustainable apparel coalition.

Figure 6: The panel discussion that included Mr. Puneet and Mr. Shohan along with Mr. Sampath Eraphola -Director Fashion Xpress, Most. Setara Begum Assistant Professor for the Department of Textile Engineering-BUFT and the moderator was Mr. Yogesh Gaikwad.

He provided insights into how the Hongkong industry is trying to rejuvenate its textile manufacturing sector by investing in high technologies that adhere to the ‘circular economy’. He explained the Higg Index, Activity-based Carbon Foot Print Modelling (ACFM), Activity-based water Foot Print Modelling (AWFM). The Higg Index a self-assessment tool that enables rapid learning through identification of environmental and social sustainability improvement opportunities.

Figure 4: Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dycin, was deliberating at the panel discussion on ‘Compliance in Certification’.

He also encouraged the attendees to attend the Fashion Summit 2018, which is scheduled for September 2018 in Hong Kong.Three panel discussions were held in the summit. Yogesh Gaikwad was the moderator of the first panel discussion on ‘Compliance in Certification’ where Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dycin, Dreszig Christian Head Marketing and Communication Bluesign Technologies, Muin Uddin, laboratory Manager SGS Bangladesh Ltd. were the panelists. Panelists highlighted the safety and hazardous issues related to the dyes and chemical manufactures. Training of dyestuff supplier and the dye house quality assurance teams for newer compliance norms would minimize conﬂicts among stakeholders, they opined.

Figure 5: Mr. Puneet Arora ,Country Head, Rossari Biotech Ltd.

The next session was on ‘Compliance in Coloration’ where Puneet Arora from Rossari Biotech and M W Shohan from ERI were the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

C o m p l i a n c e To d a y

speakers. Puneet Arora talked about innovation. M W Shohan’s presentation was a wake-up call for the attendees after the lunch. He stressed on to reduce the use of water. Measuring of resources used for manufacturing is the first step in increasing eﬃciency and reduces wastage, he added. He provided solutions for effective treatment of light, medium and heavy eﬄuent by changing the layout of treatment. “The textile industry is facing extraordinary challenges due to the scarcity of its key

The panel discussion suggested various means to improve sustainability in coloration, including training of shop ﬂoor supervisors for reducing wastage and increase eﬃciency. The Third session was on ‘Compliance in Fashion’ where Tareq Amin, Editor, and publisher of Textile Today, was the moderator. Panelist included Parama Shayntony, Assistant Professor of Hanseo University in South Korea, Rayed Barkat teaching Design and Sustainability in Fashion at BUFT. Panelists said that recycling can be a major industry in the years to come and many have made profitable enterprises with recycling as core business. They also discussed on the manufacturing of longlasting and renewable textiles, complete recycling of polyester by mechanical process, design ideas that use on renewal resources. It was one of the most interactive sessions. Tareq Amin asked some questions to the panel members about the impact of compliance of fashion on the consumer behavior, the main motivation of people go for shopping, key points of Copenhagen fashion summit and circular fashion.

In the panel discussion panelists discussed on several issues including recycling can be a major industry in the Figure 7: Tareq Amin, Editor and Publisher Textile Today was moderating the third panel years to come and many have discussion. made profitable enterprises resources - energy and water. Failing to implement with recycling as a core business, manufacturing energy and water recovery options will lead to the of long-lasting and renewable textiles, complete unsustainability soon,” he added. recycling of polyester by mechanical process, design ideas that use on renewal resources. Maximum time people like to buy that product, which has high brand value, they have no consciousness about sustainable fashion, said Ms. Parama Shayntony. Many brands are already taking initiative to make sustainable fashion, Parama added. Md. Arafat Abubakar, Manager (Raw Materials) of PVH Corporation said, “Sustainability is the major initiative of most of the brands.”

Figure 8: Arafat Abubakar, Raw Material Manager of PVH Corporation Ltd.

“I think awareness about the sustainability of our suppliers in Bangladesh is increasing. Lots of exhibition and events are happening focused on sustainability. Bangladesh is going not only making garments but also creating awareness and expertise,” said Arafat Abubakar.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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F a s h i o n To d a y

Modest wear going mainstream Al Takbir Mahim Something curious has happened to the fashion industry in the last few years: so-called modest fashion has started to take off. Designers and retailers are producing clothing that is often a little longer and slightly looser and tends to have a higher neckline. That is good news for an eager generation of young women who want to look great while respecting their religious values. Elizabeth Bucar is the author of the recently published book Pious Fashion: How Muslim Women Dress. In this op-ed for the Los Angeles Times, she writes about the new emergence of modest fashion into the mainstream commenting, “For most of the years of my research, the fashion world barely noticed Muslim style and the style makers I studied. But now I see pious fashion showing up on catwalks, in department stores, and on non-Muslim women. It’s almost as if modesty has gone mainstream.” Muslim marketing is going mainstream. Last month, Macy’s began selling the Verona Collection, a brand of modest clothing that includes traditional hijab head coverings, to court Muslim women. Adidas walked a hijab-wearing model down the runway in its New York Fashion Week show several weeks ago. And last year, Ayana Ife became the first Muslim designer on Lifetime’s popular “Project Runway.” Macy’s and Adidas follow in the footsteps of Nike and American Eagle Outfitters, which both began selling hijabs last year—though the latter’s denim offering was only a limited-edition product that

Figure 1: With both designers and high street brands waking up to the power of the Muslim pound, a new age in ‘modest wear’ is dawning. (Photo Credit: Stylist)

quickly sold out, according to a company spokesman. Nike, on the other hand, has grown its Nike Pro Hijab line, which it spent a year developing for Muslim athletes after extensive research, to include more colors this year. According to a report by Thomson Reuters, in 2013, Muslims spent a total of £185 billion on clothing and footwear. In the UK, the State of the Global Islamic Economy report in 2013 projected the Muslim fashion market to be worth £100m, which is estimated to double by 2018. Yes, Muslim consumer spending on apparel is growing fast. The category was around $243 billion in 2015, a 6 percent rise over 2014, according to Thomson Reuters’ “State of the Global Islamic Economy” report. That figure is expected to rise to $368 billion by 2021, per the report, which concluded, “The clothing may be modest, its success is anything

but.” For a company like Macy’s, which has struggled in recent years to compete with online rival Amazon and new private-label clothing lines from existing retailers such as Target, the Verona Collection could provide a lucrative edge in a new niche, and also improve the chain’s reputation as more open to certain consumer segments. While Macy’s has seen some glimmers of improvement, it could use the boost it might get from modest fashion. For its recent fourth quarter, Macy’s posted a 1.8 percent rise in sales over the yearearlier period to $8.7 billion, along with a comparable sales increase of 1.3 percent. Yet sales fell 3.7 percent to $24.8 billion for the entire year over 2016. The company did not make any executives available for comment about Verona, whose founder graduated last year from Macy’s minority- and women-owned

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Volume 11, Issue 03

F a s h i o n To d a y

Reason behind the rise of modest wear The Muslim Council of Britain estimated Muslim spending power at £20.5bn per year in the UK.

More than 50% of the world’s Muslim population is under 25 – and in the “spending group”.

Muslim consumer spending on apparel expected to rise to $368 billion by 2021

The world’s second most expensive dress is a diamond abaya, by Debbie Wingham, costing almost £12million.

business development program. However, the department store said in a release that the expansion would help “better serve” customers.

Hijab eight years ago. “Retail knows and understands that in order to survive, they need to be dynamic and adapt to societal trends.”

“The retail environment is tanking and so you’ll see a lot of attempts at trying to reach other markets— we’ve seen a lot of inclusivity and variations,” says Melanie Elturk, a Muslim who founded the New York-based e-commerce site Haute

Prior to 2015, Muslim consumers were a largely ignored segment in mass-market retail. However, many credit fast-fashion brand H&M, which featured a hijab-wearing Muslim model in a campaign three years ago, as one of the first

Alia Khan Alia Khan is chair of the Islamic Fashion and Design Council (IFDC), representing Islamic stakeholders in the fashion industry. Alia created Pret-A-Cover that promotes modest designs in stores.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

apparel brands to embrace such diversity in marketing materials. The trend has expanded to other retailers, which has helped normalize Islamic traditions, says Elturk. Fashion houses, especially, are incorporating more headscarves in their lineups, either on the runway or in their campaigns. Beyond Adidas, Max Mara and Yeezy have both featured Muslim models in fashion shows. Such marketing, or running smaller capsule collections, is not very costly financially for brands but does carry a strong social message of inclusion.

Hana Tajima

Dina Torkia

a British-Japanese convert to Islam, designer and visual artist Hana Tajima is an ‘A’ list fashion blogger who collaborated with Uniqlo for an a/w 2015 collection. Hana Tajima thinks modest fashion can be for anyone. “I think we need to take Muslim out of it,” she said. “I’m pretty sure every religion promotes modesty.”

Designer and blogger, 27 years old, started out posting pictures of her own clothing designs on Facebook five years ago, but people kept asking about how to style a hijab. She turned to YouTube, where she showed people how to create a “volumised” style. In one video, she showed viewers 20 different ways to tie a scarf.

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F a s h i o n To d a y

Mariah Idrissi “It’s not like we just started to wear hijab,” says Mariah Idrissi, who in 2015 became the first person to wear a hijab in an H&M ad campaign. “We’ve had this industry for a very long time and they never really took notice.”

Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Qatar’s former First Lady, Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser has become a fashion icon styling out creations by Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel.

Textile engineers celebrate the annual family day Desk Report The annual family day of the Institution of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ITET) observed on 2nd March at Bangladesh University of Textiles (Butex) campus premise, which was organized by the newly elected committee of the 14th council of the ITET. The event was a grand gathering of around 2000 members of ITET and their families. Home Minister Asaduzzaman Khan Kamal was present as a chief guest where Vice Chancellor of the Bangladesh University of Textiles, Prof. Engr. Mashud Ahmed; ITET president Engr. Shafiqur Rahman; ITET former President Engr. Mozaffar Hossain; ITET Sr. Vice President Engr. Md. Salim Reza; Vice President Engr. Syed Atikur Rahman; Vice President Engr. Md. Shakhawat Hossain; Vice President Engr. Shamim Rahman; ITET Secretary General Engr. Shakhawat Hossain

Figure: ITET observed their family day at BUTEX campus in the city.

Talukder; Joint Secretary, Engr. Touhidul Islam Kakon and many other prominent textile engineers were present at the occasion. ITET family day program convener

Engr. Abdur Rahman has hosted the program. ITET organized cricket tournament, raﬄe draw and cultural program on the occasion.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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Towards Zero Defect Quality in Textile & Apparel Date & Time : 4th May, 2018

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Mentor’s Profile PPI Workshop on

3R (Reduce, Reuse and Recycle) opportunities in ‘Knit Dyeing & Finishing’

Date & Time 20th April, 2018 9.00 AM - 1.00 PM

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Textile Today 14 years of experience in research, consultancy & training. A successful entrepreneur having excellent track record and reputation.

Mentor’s Profile

Other Workshops

PPI Workshop on

Knit Dyeing production and troubleshooting

Denim Development Career Planning and Opportunities Fabrics for Merchandisers Marketing Merchandising Compliance Management Factory sourcing & order follow up Relationship Marketing

Date & Time

Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed

Head Of Technical Support, Taiwan Persotex Corporation

Textile Value Chain

21st April, 2018 9.00 AM - 1.00 PM

Fees: BDT 990/- Each Workshop **2 workshop free per year for Textile Today Subscribers

Sustainability

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Venue: The House of Textile Today 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector – 7, Uttara, Dhaka – 1230

Transforming Human Capital

We should consider one’s quality, capability, education and performance instead of gender Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director of Desh Garments Ltd. International Women’s Day is an occasion to celebrate the progress made towards achieving gender equality and women’s empowerment but also to critically reflect on those accomplishments and strive for a greater momentum towards gender equality worldwide. It is a day to recognize the extraordinary acts of women and to stand together, as a united force. The day is celebrated on March 8 every year and the first observance of a Women’s Day was held on February 28, 1909, in New York. Bangladesh apparel industry mainly driven by women is playing an important role to make women economically empowered. However, one of the country’s apex trade bodies BGMEA, a platform of 3.5 million workers and staffs, of which 60.8% are women, has no women representatives on its current board. The Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI) and Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) also do not have any women members on the board. It is very disappointing when Bangladesh’s Prime Minister, Opposition Leader, and Speaker in the parliament are women. Marking the international woman’s day recently Bangladesh Textile Today talked with Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director of Desh Garments Ltd, about women entrepreneurship, women employment, their problems and way to overcome. In addition to managing Desh Group’s discrete companies since 2005, Ms. Khan serves on the board of advisors of AFBWS (Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety). Earlier, she served as a director of BGMEA.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Wo m e n s E n t r e p r e n e u r

Textile Today: Why have you built your career in garments sector? What were the inspirations brought you to this sector? Vidiya Amrit Khan: I did not build my career in the apparel sector, it was an inherited business. Desh Garments Ltd, the pioneer garment factory in Bangladesh, was the first hundred percent export-oriented garment factory set up in 1978. It was set up by my father M. Noorul Quader. So automatically, I inherited this business. I am a barrister by profession but I did not practice, when I came back to Bangladesh, I realized that the court is not a place for me. Therefore, I decided to look after my father’s business and ‘garments’ is, of course, the mother company of Desh Group of Company. Textile Today: How do you see the contribution of female entrepreneurs in textile and apparel sector? Vidiya Amrit Khan: Number of female entrepreneurs are very few in Bangladesh’s garments industry, who is running whole business. The number is very low considering the number of women workers in the sector. BGMEA, one

of the largest trade associations in the country representing the readymade garment industry, has no women Director. I was the last women Director of BGMEA. And if you observe other associations like BKMEA, BTMA etc. there are no women entrepreneur also. I do not see any women leadership in the sector. Even if, you think about management or mid-management position only a few are women. SME or other industries are different, there are good numbers of woman entrepreneurs, but in the RMG industry, I think, there is not enough women entrepreneurs, though among the workers almost 80 percent are women However, while you ask me about women entrepreneur, at first the name come to my mind is Rubana Huq, Managing Director of Mohammadi Group. She is heading Mohammadi Group, she looks after it, she communicates to the people, she employs, and she negotiates. Therefore, she is a true entrepreneur and I am also an entrepreneur because although I inherited this business from my father but now I am handling this alone and no male around me. My husband or my brother does

Therefore, she is a true entrepreneur and I am also an entrepreneur because although I inherited this business by my father but now I am handling this alone and no male around me. My husband or my brother does not play any role here. I believe if women entrepreneur comes more in this sector the industry will move forward further.

not play any role here. I believe if women entrepreneur comes more in this sector the industry will move forward further. Textile Today: According to CPD survey, the female employment rate is decreasing due to advance machinery. How do you see this matter, in your company what is the status of women in this regard? Vidiya Amrit Khan: I do not know the data is correct or not. Still today, Bangladesh is not so advanced in garments manufacturing technology. As I do not do the research I could be wrong, but I do not think there are so many factories with advanced machinery that is why they are cutting women from their factory and hiring male workers.

Figure 2 : The first shirt made by Desh trainees in Korea in 1979

Yes, machines are already reducing physical load, so that to work in a technical position what is the barrier for a woman. It may be

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Exclusive Interview

that women are not technically educated or well trained. Culturally and religiously, our industry is male-dominated in management and expertise wise. So that women are not available like a man in some cases, however, women are doing well and the situation is changing. Maybe previously the number of woman textile engineers were low, but now the number of male and female textile engineers are almost same. Textile Today: What could be done to increase woman entrepreneurs in textile and apparel sector? Vidiya Amrit Khan: To increase woman entrepreneurs in textile and apparel sector, women leadership should be encouraged. Loan facilities, tax incentives etc. should be provided for women entrepreneurs. Textile Today: What types of barriers generally a woman employee faces in RMG sector and how to overcome it? Vidiya Amrit Khan: The barrier a woman faces in the RMG industry is not necessarily to do with the factory itself, but because of the other social, environmental, practical conditions that exist around that woman at any given time could be a barrier for her. For example, road, traveling, sanitation, toilet, education and the general perception that women cannot do anything, man can do everythingthese are the great barriers for a woman. Recently BGMEA President Siddiqur Rahman told the Dhaka Tribune, “There were women on the previous board. They are unwilling to come, as they cannot give much time and are not capable of handling the responsibilities. If they do not want to participate, we cannot force them to assume leadership positions.” As a woman, I run my businesses effectively. I also performed well as a board member of BGMEA. The consideration for an eligible candidate in representing the

trade body should not be based on gender. We should consider one’s quality, capability, and education instead of gender. It is time to think about performance. I did not miss, if they called me in any meeting or program when the time has ended, nobody asked me “Do you want to continue?” Textile Today: Most of the cases female employee get less salary than a male employee. What is your opinion on it and in your company is there any practice of gender inequality? Vidiya Amrit Khan: It is unfair. They do the same work, so why they will get less salary than a male employee? I pay people as per their performance. Performance is the indicator that what your salary should be. Textile Today: Does your company provide any special facility for woman employee? Vidiya Amrit Khan: Special facilities for woman employee in my company are childcare, breastfeeding kids on working time, maternity benefits etc. Now you can ask that all compliance factory has the same facility, so why I am highlighting these. You know different factories have different policies. As a woman, I understand the need of women, so that, woman employee can enjoy those facilities more ﬂexible here. Sometimes, our supervisors complain if any women go for breastfeeding her baby 8 to 10 times in a day. I just say, “I cannot forbid them to do it as it is her baby’s right.”

operators, in charges etc. Other major challenges are increasing production cost but decreasing product price and increasing pressure from everybody that we are not paying enough to the worker. Do not forget everybody has spent 1 million, 2 million, or 3 million worth of compliance upgradation charges for AccordAlliance audit. Textile Today: Once the Desh Garments was the best unit in the subcontinent, now in 2018, how do you position your company? Vidiya Amrit Khan: Now we are definitely not the leading production unit in the subcontinent, I wish we were. The Desh Garments Ltd. faces lots of problems and struggles from its beginning. First of all, when my father established this factory and got an order, he realized he has no money to operate this order. So he went on formulated back to back banking system. Then in 1987, my father was suffering from cancer and in 1991 the factory was shut down almost for six years due to a bank loan, accommodated loses. In 1998 my father died. Unfortunately, the Desh Garments did not grow as it should have. Now we are trying to be one of the good quality apparel manufacturers in the world keeping the legacy as a motivation for us.

Textile Today: What are the future challenges for the sector you see and how it could be overcome? Vidiya Amrit Khan: For a long time the Chittagong port has been messed. The port is increasing the lead-time and badly affecting the overall performance of the apparel sector. Nobody is speaking on it. Another problem is the insuﬃcient infrastructure regarding RMG sector. There are not enough trained workers, supervisors,

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

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P r i n t i n g To d a y

Pidilite’s one-stop textile printing solutions presented in Dhaka Staﬀ Correspondent Pidilite Industries Ltd, one of the leading manufacturers of adhesives, sealants, and high performing processing chemicals, organized a technical seminar in associate with TeXcotech on 3 March with titled “New Development in Pigment Printing” at hotel Le Meridien in the city, which attracted remarkable crowd having more than 100 textile professionals. The seminar discussed sustainable solution in continuous printing and dyeing process. In this seminar, Pidilite experts introduced its latest innovation in chemistry, their uses and benefits. “We provide sustainable solutions that meet the economic and environmental needs of the industry and the planet. As a partner of Pidilite, we always value our partners. As the market is competitive, we provide long-term support to our customers” said, Mr. Anwarul Haque, Managing Partner,

Figure 1: Pidilite and Texco-Tech team members were present at the customer seminar.

Texco-Tech Ltd. “To extend our technology scope, we are also working together with other technology-oriented

companies,” Anwarul added. “There is an excellent interest that matched between Pidilite and Texcotech to meet the future needs of customers for quality products in all high-growth sectors,” Anwarul said. “We have set a long-term vision and ensure our products reach as many people as possible. We need a colorful impression with the unique pigment printing solution for textile over six decades. It is one of the renowned brand in India and globally,” said Mr. Rajesh Balakrishnan, Chief Executive Oﬃcer, Industrial Products Division, Pidilite.

Figure 2: Mr. Rajesh Balakrishnan, Chief Executive Oﬃcer, Industrial Products Division of Pidilite.

“We have more than 20 manufacturing facilities, 5000 workers. We offer a complete range of pigment dispersions, binders, thickeners, fixers, additives, finishing chemicals and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

P r i n t i n g To d a y

are excellent dispersion stability; optimum particle size; high fastness to light rubbing, washing and dry clearing and high thermal stability. Pidicryl binders are a wide range of products specially designed to meet requirements of performance, fashion and ecology. These binders are for a water-based printing system, soft printing system, and decorative printing system. This binder’s advantages are excellent fastness, good paste stability, enhances the color value of paste. Figure 3: Mr. Vishwas Kokane, Chief (sales and marketing) of Pidilite.

textile auxiliaries,” Rajesh added. Mr. Vishwas Kokane, Chief (sales and marketing) of Pidilite said, “Our product is certified with ISO 9001 for quality, ISO 14001 for safety, and important certifications like OHSAS 18001, CTPAT, NABL and various green certifications. We have in-house kneading facility, vertical and horizontal milling facility for ensuring perfect quality of pigment dispersions for our customers. “We have state-of-the-art quality control laboratory where we test every raw material and finished products. We can detect the presence of Banned amines, COC, heavy metals, APEO, and formaldehyde. Our product has been compliance with standards like ZDHC, GOTS, OEKO-TEX, REACH and quality requirements for global buyers. Our growth currently in excess of INR 5000 crores,” Vishwas added. Pidilite Industries began operations in Bangladesh 15 years ago. Building trust with the trade, providing genuine services and offering innovative solutions enabled the Fevicol adhesive. Pidilite is actively investing in Bangladesh and participating in Bangladesh growth. “We set up a factory in 2009 at Munshigunj over 1.5 acres area. Our plan to invest in pigment dispersions, polymers and Adhesives at Valuka, Mymensingh

Pidilite, presented some key benefits of his company. They highlighted different types of products such as, Texcron, Pidicryl, Pidiprint, Pidicron, Pidifix which are a sustainable solution for the textile printing industry. Solutions for textile printing Texcron printing system is well known for brilliant color values, excellent fastness ratings, and soft handle. It is suitable for all printing machine. Texcron is one of the leading brands in pigment dispersion. Its features

Pidilite has developed a range of synthetic thickeners bearing in mind different requirements of customers. Pidiprint thickeners provide special properties including easy in preparation of paste, suitable for use in hard water. Pidicryl is a special product, which influences flow behavior of printing paste. It reduces flushing tendency on different fabrics, improve color yield and color brightness. In the seminar, Mr. Rafiqul Islam, a representative of SGS Bangladesh, presented hazardous substances risk in printing materials such as AZO, APEO, SCCP, Glycol, formaldehyde etc. At the end of

Figure 4: Mr. Shailesh Vora, Team Head export, industrial products, Pidilite.

by 2019,” Vishwas said. Mr. Shailesh Vora, Team Head (export), industrial products of

the seminar, the question-answer session was held where experts from Pidilite suggested remedies to customer problems.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Bangladesh, the highest growth market for GOTS certification in 2017 Desk Report The number of facilities certified to GOTS shows an increase of 8.2%, from 4,642 facilities in 2016 to 5,024 facilities in 2017. GOTS certified facilities are located in 62 countries around the world with continuous growth in both production as well as consuming regions. GOTS certification covers the processing of certified organic fibres along the entire supply chain from field to finished product.

Country Name

GOTS certification increased rate

Bangladesh

+40%

North America

+39%

Portugal

+39%

Europe

29%

Table: Showing the countries or regions with the largest increase in GOTS certification in 2017.

Countries or regions with the largest increase in GOTS certification in 2017 are (in rank order) Bangladesh (+40%), North America (+39%), Portugal (+39%), Europe (+29%). The top ten countries in terms of total number of certified facilities are India (1658), Bangladesh (534), Germany (480), Turkey (445), Italy (307), China (292), Pakistan (194), Portugal (180), USA (99) and South Korea (69). “The growing numberof GOTS certification shows that GOTS is taken as a solution for managing risks, reputation and market differentiation. We are very

Bangladesh Textile Today |

pleased with the development in North America. It will have the same pull effect as also seen in Europe by creating increasing capacities in the producing countries,” said GOTS Director Claudia Kersten at the GOTS Annual Meeting in Charleston, South Carolina. The top ten countries in terms of total number of certified facilities India (1658), Bangladesh (534), Germany (480), Turkey (445), Italy (307), China (292), Pakistan (194), Portugal (180), USA(99) and South Korea (69). India has consistently maintained its position at the top since year 2008. “India is the largest exporter of organic textiles, but I shall also be focussing on domestic consumption of certified organic clothing this year,” said Sumit Gupta, GOTS Representative in India & Bangladesh. Bangladesh has touched the number two spot for the first time, leaving behind Turkey and Germany. “The textile industry in the country has enhanced focus on sustainability now and more companies are able to comply with GOTS criteria for environment and social compliance,” Sumit Gupta continues. In 2017, the 19 GOTS accredited independent Certification Bodies

Volume 11, Issue 03

reported more than 1.74 million people working in GOTS certified facilities. The number of chemicals on the GOTS Positive Listalso shows an increase of 14% to more than 17,900 from 720 manufacturers. The GOTS Positive List contains tradenames of approved chemicals that must be used by all textile processors for their GOTS certified production. GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for the entire post-harvest processing (including spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing) of apparel and home textiles made with organic fibre (such as organic cotton and organic wool), and includes both environmental and social criteria. Key provisions include a ban on the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), highly hazardous chemicals (such as azo dyes and formaldehyde), and child labour, while requiring strong social compliance management systems and strict wastewater treatment practices. GOTS was developed by leading international standard setters Organic Trade Association (U.S.), Japan Organic Cotton Association, International Association Natural Textile Industry (Germany), and Soil Association (UK) to define globally recognised requirements that ensure the organic status of textiles. For more information on the Global Organic Textile Standard, please visit www.globalstandard.org.

C a m p u s To d a y

Do not believe misconceptions about spinning sector BUTEX Correspondent

Fresher’s come and Elders leave campus every year. In spite of these universal norms, it is quite tough for us to get farewell towards the outgoing batch of campus. Every student bears his own desire when he gets himself admitted in university. To ignite their passion and gives the necessary instruction about their future academic life, BUTEX Spinners’ Club, a club of yarn Engineering Department arranged ‘Fresher Reception and Farewell 2018’ on 9th February on BUTEX Auditorium.

Registrar of the Bangladesh University of Textile, Prof. Md Monirul Islam was present as the chief guest in this program. Execute Director of Noman Group (Spinning division and CMD) MD. Enamul Karim; Director of Infinia Spinning Ltd, Md. Mominul Motin (Tushar); General manager of Zubair Spinning Limited, A.K.M Mazed; General Manager of Zaber spinning Ltd, BIbhuti Mohan Biswas and Deputy General Manager of Divine Spinning Limited, Md. Abdul Latif Sarkar was present as special Guest.

The Club website was also inaugurated in this program to build the strong relationships among spinning professional and students. This website creates an excellent opportunity for yarn Engineering Department’s students to keep connect with spinning industry and know about the latest technologies of spinning industries.

All speakers in this program urged the outgoing batch to join spinning sector and serve the textile sector of Bangladesh. They told that there are lots of misconceptions about the spinning sector in Bangladesh. But, real view is that you can easily attain a higher position in the spinning sector within a short time. A good working environment and better

salary structure along with better management is waiting for you. Diploma and Nontechnical persons are becoming the leader in different yarn manufacturing industries. This situation will be created a very bad impact in the long run for spinning industries of desired yarn quality and application of automation. Any kind of bad issue creates in spinning industries affects our total textile value chain. Do not waste your time, join spinning industries and serve our nation to attain the goal of 50 billion annual RNG Export. They urged the freshers not to hear the rumor of spinning industries. They said not to be depressed and to focus always on their academic studies. Always create a network with industry professionals to realize and see the real picture of the spinning sector of Bangladesh.

Figure 2: Attendees of ‘Fresher Reception and Farewell 2018’ on 9th February on BUTEX Auditorium.

In this program, BUTEX SPINNERS’ Club acknowledged the students who are studying yarn-engineering department in different session for their brilliant achievement in their academic result.

Figure 1: Distinguish teachers and guests were present at the program.

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Volume 11, Issue 03

Head of yarn Engineering Department, BUTEX Prof. Dr. Hosne Ara Begum presided over the program. Faculty from different departments and yarn Lab concern individuals were also present in the program.

K n i t t i n g To d a y

Knitting industry requires modern technology for healthier growth Staff Correspondent The Knitwear industry of Bangladesh has global competitiveness in terms of product quality, price and industrial up gradation by using of latest machinery, vertical integration, and industrial agglomeration. Recently a team of Bangladesh Textile Today has met with Swapan Kumar Das, Managing Director, Texworld Associates Ltd and discussed several issues on knitting industry and sustainable machinery. This article has been written mainly based on that discussion. Swapan Kumar Das started his career as an entrepreneur, overtakes many challenges and ultimately has reached in the pick of success. Tex World Associates Ltd. has become a well trusted consulting and indenting house for the textile industry for the last 15 years, which believe in teamwork and its specialist teams of engineers, technicians and commercial managers are always ready to assist the ever-expanding clientele from start to end. “Our experience in the garments sector will certainly help you to gain access to a world of knowledge that will aid the development of your projects. Over time, Tex World Associates Ltd. has developed strategic partnerships with globally renowned brands like – KauoHeng, Tien Yang, Yonthin Technologies, Denair Group, RIUS, etc. Our bestsellers include circular knitting machines, auto-striper with the jacquard option, computerized flat knitting machines, and automatic flat jacquard machines,” said Mr. Swapan Kumar Das. The present situation of Knitting Industry The knitwear sector, owing to the

Figure: Swapan Kumar Das, Managing Director, Texworld Associates Ltd emergence of strong backward linkages within the country, is adding up 75 percent value of our country economy. Recently knitting industry growth is decreasing due to some reasons including compliance, an increase of yarn price, infrastructure problem, high interest in bank loan etc. Many industries are facing problems and many small factories have stopped their business failing to fulfill Accord and Alliance’s condition. Already production cost is increased more than 18 percent due to Accord and Alliance whereas buyers are now offering 5 percent less price than before. Cotton yarn prices move suddenly and powerfully forward in the international market in the previous months increased more than 8 percent. Besides, banks of our country are more conservative to give a loan, so that many kitting factories cannot import machine. Major challenges of the knitting industry As the population is growing and the standard of living is increasing in Bangladesh, the demand for

knitting products is increasing rapidly in the domestic market. On the other hand, export of knitting products will be continued as Bangladesh has edge over other competitors due to low labor cost. As a 2nd largest exporter Bangladesh has some of the strategic problem. Adoption of the most modern and appropriate technology to ensure quality products at competitive prices are the major challenges of knitting sector. “Bangladesh needs to dramatically increase capacities in spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing and finishing sub-sectors,” he said. To do this insuﬃcient skilled people are one of the major challenges in our textile industry especially in mid-level management. Lack of technical and market research is another challenge in our industry. While asked about 50 billion USD target Mr. Swapan Kumar Das said, “Achieving the $50 billion export target by 2021 from readymade garment sector is becoming more challenging. I think 50 billion target is achievable in 90 percent

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Industry Insight

and for this Bangladesh should make a high value-added product, need to market research, adopted the new technology.” How to overcome Sustainable Textile Machinery are needed to adopt in our RMG industry for both woven and knitting sector. Sustainable technology refers to the technology, which caters the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs. Price of knitting machinery in Bangladesh comparatively has not gone up recently. He emphasized that Bangladesh government needs

to take a step to make conscious the entrepreneurs about new technologies. Therefore, the entrepreneurs can easily move to use new technology for better growth and sustainability. In Bangladesh, industry owners have very little idea about new technology. Some factories are using modern machinery but due to lack of skilled workforce they are facing several problems. “The automation technology helps us reducing wages and makes sure more productivity. Due to the increasing demand for knitwear from the brands, the knitwear sector transformed their business through automatic knitting

machine. Bangladesh is still relying on old technology. Only a few factories are using jacquard machine, striper jacquard, and ﬂeece jacquard machines. That’s why we cannot produce enough high value-added products,” said Mr. Swapan Kumar Das. “Modern technology adoption will help Bangladesh to continue its growth in knitting and knitwear sector. For example in sweaters factory, it needs 50 percent less manpower for adopting modern machinery,” he added. He emphasized that Bangladesh textile industry owners need to arrange training on new and upcoming technologies.

SGS Bangladesh conducted ZDHC academy training Desk Report SGS Bangladesh Ltd organized ZDHC certified (ZDHC ACADEMY) training on “Introduction to Chemical Management” from 18 to 19 March 2018 at Dhaka. SGS is one of the Approved Training Providers (ATP) of ZDHC Academy and in order to support the industry to drive towards zero discharge SGS organized this ZDHC certified training based on ZDHC academy chemical module. Objective of the training was to improve knowledge and practice of responsible chemical management concern from different suppliers as well as to guide them for understanding and performing ZDHC guideline for the ultimate goal of achieving aspirational limit.

Training session was inaugurated by Mr. Abdur Rashid, Country Business Manager, Consumer & Retail, SGS Bangladesh Ltd and also chaired by Mr. Mahfuzur Rahman, Manager, Sales & Marketing, Key Account Management & Customer Service of SGS Bangladesh Ltd. Key note presenter and trainer was Mr. Rafiqul Islam, Chemical Lab Manager, SGS Bangladesh and certified trainer on chemical management; among others were Mr. A.K.M. Anamul Haque, In charge Chemical Lab testing and Mr. Maruf M A Rahman, Key contact of ZDHC/ Detox program at SGS Bangladesh Ltd. Participants of the session was from various leading Textile and Garments industry key resources from environmental and compliance division who are directly engaged for implementation of ZDHC in their respective organizations. Participants found the two days session as very much useful and beneficial for them as they made the session very interactive; participants were mostly interested on ZDHC chemical gateway, risks, Hazards and best practices. SGS Bangladesh will continue to conduct this ZDHC ACAMDEMY training in coming days.

Figure: Abdur Rashid, Country Business Manager, CRS inaugurating the session on 18 March

SGS Bangladesh is one of the ZDHC accepted provisional labs and has full range of capability for testing of DETOX, ZDHC and MRSL. The company also provide “SGS holistic solution” for ZDHC & Detox at their Dhaka lab in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Country Profile

Why Ethiopia can be a future supply chain focal point for textile and apparel industry MM UDDIN Introduction Horn of Africa Ethiopia’s economy is mainly based on agriculture but over the last 5 years, the Federal Democratic Republic Government has been focusing on diversification of exports with priorities concentrated on strategic sectors like textile and garment manufacturing. In 1939, the first garment factory was established, and in the last 5 to 6 years the Ethiopian textile and apparel industry has grown at an average of 51% and more than 65 international textile investment projects have been licensed for foreign investors, during this period. The country has achieved an average annual export growth of 27.4% over the last decade where the manufacturing Industry contributes 13% to the GDP. The Industry has been growing on average annually 10.2% for the same period. This growth in the textile industry is directly motivated by the Government’s move to set up an industrial development strategy. This investment development strategy is playing a vital role in the country’s economic status. Ethiopia’s apparel industry shows potential to become a global sourcing hub, which earning reached from US$60 million to US$160 million in the past five years, and the government has a target to take it to US$1 billion by 2020. It is becoming global competitor because of the government support, an

Figure 1: Own cotton production gives Ethiopia an edge are other competing countries in manufacturing cotton-based textile and apparel.

abundant labor pool, low wages, and preferential trade status with European and U.S. market. On the other hand, the foreign investors are interested to invest because of low workforce cost, available raw materials, and low energy costs. Export trend Ethiopia is aiming to generate

$30 billion from the export of garment and textile by the year 2025, which is an ambitious target for a country whose shipments are only $115 million now. According to Xinhuanet, the biggest and most inﬂuential media organization in China, Ethiopia’s textile and Garment sector export revenue

100

100% 89.65%

90%

80%

70%

60% 52.60%

50%

40% 30.90%

30 20 10

23.62%

30%

15.00% FY 2012-13

20% FY 2013-14

FY 2014-15

Value in USD MILLION

FY 2015-16

FY 2016-17

10%

T-o-Y % Chanee

Figure 2: Garment export trend of Ethiopia.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Country Profile

was only 89.3 million US dollars out of a planned 271 million US dollars during the Fiscal Year 2016-17. Its goal represents a 300-fold rise in shipments in just eight years. Interesting thing is that Ethiopia’s combined textile and clothing exports of $115 million are just a fraction of the revenues of companies like TAL Apparel ($850 million) and Arvind Limited ($770 million), who are in the process of setting up production facilities in the country. Opportunities The Ethiopian government has displayed a comprehensive package for the investor and it has motivated the investor to invest over there especially from the country like Turkey, UK, China etc. 1. Labors: Available workforce at very competitive costs. 2. Wages: The wages compare to the China and Vietnam is fifth and half. 3. Cheaper Electricity: The electricity is 8 times cheaper compared to the other manufacturing country. 4. Water is free: The maximum factories are using tap water, groundwater or river water that is completely free. 5. Import duty-free: The import duty is free on equipment, machinery and on spare parts needed to realize garment production. 6. Cotton availability: The cotton is easy to produce because of their good climatic and soil conditions together with cheap hydro-energy (textile factories pay between US$0.78 and US$0.002 per KW). 7. Infrastructure: Low rent and lease up to 1-2 USD per square/ meter for factory building. 8. Less corruption: All business processes controlled by government “Don’t pay without receipt”- to fight corruption. 9. Geographic location: Ethiopia is located at the center of

Bangladesh Textile Today |

the world with easy access to international value chains, and has access to a state-of-the-art container port (Djibouti). 10. Duty-free access: Ethiopia has duty free access to the European Union (EU) and U.S. markets through the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). Challenges Defiantly Ethiopia is a potential country for apparel value-added supply chain but there have some great challenges also. The government has a target to reach US$1 billion by 2020, which was quite ambitious but not impossible. If the Ethiopia apparel industry will overcome the bellow challenges, it will not so much ambitious. According to the Ministry of Industry, the major challenges are lack of input with a fair price, quality and quantity, lack of skilled manpower, and less improved technologies. On the other hand, investors’ (engaged in small and medium textile and garment) lack of awareness on the sector. Some major challenges are given below: ∠ The factories are getting greener and more sustainable.

big challenges for the industry. ∠ The industry has to adopt the modern technology, research, and innovation process to improve the poor productivity. ∠ The product range is still limited, mostly they are doing only cotton-based products. If Ethiopia wants to achieve the 2020 target, they have to increase their product range a certain level. ∠ Another big challenge is improving product’s quality and quality control system. ∠ They have to enrich the concept of marketing, market role, and international supply chain. ∠ Lack of skilled human resources in all management and execution sectors. ∠ Ethiopia still suffering from loss and low market share. ∠ The infrastructure condition not satisfactory yet. ∠ Must be upgraded their operational machinery and equipment. ∠ Ethiopia must be ensured the global standard of the price competition.

∠ The power and energy remain a big concern for Ethiopia. ∠ Infrastructure is simply not enough. ∠ The education and research should get more preference and investment. ∠ Need capacity building and productivity enhancement.

Educaton and Research

Quality & New Market

Power & Productivity

∠ Exploring new markets. ∠ Ethiopia must be investing in development the poor quality of labor force. It’s one of the

Volume 11, Issue 03

Figure 3: Major challenges of Ethiopian textile and apparel industry.

Country Profile

Government initiative to improve the sector The government of Ethiopia has taken lots of initiative to improve the sector because it is one of the rising sectors in Ethiopia. It is potentially drawn the attention by the government in the second Growth and Transformation Plan II (GTP II). This billion USD earning sector will create almost 300,000 jobs during the plan period. The government offering easy access to the international value chain, different incentives and it has the abundant and competitive workforce, according to Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC). According to Siyoum Wujira, by the Garment and Textile Directorate Director of ETGA (Ethiopian Textile and Garment Agency) small and medium industries have been given support in terms of structure, training, workshops, loan, machinery lease, finance, advisory services, market linkages and the like. The government also will confirm that the Institute provides chemical and

FDI (Foreign Direct Investment) If any foreign firm wants to invest in Ethiopia has to go through the below four simple steps with Ethiopian Investment Commission or EIC. Development Bank of Ethiopia (DBE) as well as Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC) installed a scheme of incentives for foreign direct investors to boost up the FDI and achieve the 2020 target. According to the incentive schemes all fabric/ garment trimmings can be imported under the condition and those goods are destined for exports and will not be sold- or distributed in the local market. Some of the other facility for foreign investors are given below: ∠ Customs duty-free for importing textile and apparel equipments. ∠ There has Corporate Income Tax release (CIT) for 1-9 years depends on location and product export ratio. ∠ Income tax will be considered to

1. Obtaining an invesment license and construction permit

2. Notarization of reuired docoments.

3. Grading of construction contractior

4. Securing lad for the project.

Figure 4:

Investment steps

environmental laboratory facilities, spinning, garment technology in

weaving and knitting.

2 to 7 years for manufacturing investments.

∠ The regular corporate tax is 2530 but FID it will be 10%. ∠ According to the voucher scheme, a printed voucher having monetary value, which can be sued to pay duties at the time of exports of finished goods. ∠ DEB (Development Bank of Ethiopia) will support for largescale investments. ∠ Bank interest rates will not over than 8% - 8, 5% terms for investment and co-financing based on 10 years. ∠ Duty drawbacks, vouchers, export credit guarantee schemes on export incentives. ∠ VAT is 15% is paid back able on a monthly base. ∠ There has no income tax for a foreign employee that supports knowledge transfer or exchange of expertise for at least 2-4 years. ∠ Electricity tariff of 2.7 cents per KW instead of EU is 10-12 times more. ∠ The government will give lease the Shed (Factory and building space) only USD 1 or 2 per square meter in the industrial parks instead of USD 27 per square meter Eastern Industrial Park. Conclusion Ethiopia has been a politically stable country in Africa (Except recent happenings and resign of last head of the state) and its social stability rate is good. The country is the 12th fastest growing economy in the world and its sustainable growth rate is average 10%. It has an excellent climate and fertile soils for textile row cotton. Ethiopia is trying to improve the quality level and invest more for generating skilled workforces. If the country utilizes its opportunities and takes proper action to minimize the remaining challenges, there is no doubt that Ethiopia will become a great global competitor and a future supply chain focal point for textile and apparel industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

C o m p l i a n c e To d a y

Millers not interested utilizing $100 million fund of Alliance for its hard terms and conditions Staﬀ Correspondent According to the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, a total of 322 Alliance-aﬃliated factories have completed all material components in their corrective action plans and are considered substantially remediated. Eighty-eight percent of factory remediation is complete across all active factories, including 84 percent of items most critical to life safety. Recently Alliance Executive Director, Ambassador Jim Moriarty said their quarterly press conference, “Alliance continues to achieve unprecedented progress in our efforts to improve safety within the ready-made garment industry in Bangladesh. Our factory remediation work is progressing at a rapid pace, and we remain on track to meet our stated commitments by the end of the year. Jim Moriarty also said, Alliance would provide $100 million remediation fund for the Alliance signatory companies. According to industry insiders, the terms and condition of alliance funds is very hard for them and time consuming. To avail the fund, factory owners have to apply to the Alliance signatory brands first. The brands would then weigh up whether the factory needs money or not, which is a drawn-out process. Some industry had applied for the fund but they did not get money, said Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President, BGMEA. He also said, “The fund was needed before starting remediation, already industry owners have

According to the industry insiders, if any brand releases a certain amount of money it will have to be done through the Bangladesh Bank, which, in turn, will disburse it through banks. Both the central bank and the banks will charge a certain amount, so the average rate of interest goes past the 10 percent mark. Factory owners can get loans from banks at much lower rates and with lesser strings attached. spent Tk. 4-5 crore (per factory) for strengthening the workplace safety”. According to the industry insiders, if any brand releases a certain amount of money it will have to be done through the Bangladesh Bank, which, in turn, will disburse it through banks. Both the central bank and the banks will charge a certain amount, so the average rate of interest goes past the 10

percent mark. Factory owners can get loans from banks at much lower rates and with lesser strings attached. Jim Moriarty also said, “Our job now is to transfer our knowledge, best practices and worker safety innovations to credible partners who can own and continue this work locally, which is the only way it can truly be sustained over the long term, Moriarty added. According to the Alliance press statement, 290 Alliance factories have required structural retrofitting. Of those, 264 factories or 91 percent have fully completed retrofitting, meaning that their foundations, columns and beams are now able to meet the imposed load demands required of an industrial building. Moriarty also said, “We are in conversations with the Government of Bangladesh, the BGMEA, the ILO, and other stakeholders on the exact details of this transition, and we expect to announce details soon.” Formed in May 2013, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety is a five-year-long binding agreement of 28 North American clothing brands.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

C o t t o n To d a y

India to produce less cotton than earlier estimates Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Since the December 2017 estimate, cotton production has been revised downwards due to crop damage in some major cotton growing states. On 12 March, Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India (CAI) estimated that this year’s cotton production would be 36.2 million bales (170 Kgs each) as against its December estimate of 37.5 million bales. Last month, CAI estimated the crop to be 36.7 million bales. Speaking via telephone in the early hours of today, a key market watcher in India stated that the lower estimate was expected as the governments of Maharashtra and Telangana advised cotton farmers to remove the plants in January to avoid furthering and spreading of pink bollworm infestation to save Rabi and subsequent Kharif crops. While the infestation has been serious in some major southern states, proactive measures taken in Gujarat and Northern states after 2016-17 infestation the issue has been less serious there. Cotton experts have requested cotton-growing states to take

Figure: A worker harvests cotton in a field on the outskirts of Ahmedabad, India. (Photo Credit: Reuters)

precautionary measures now so that the issue will be under control in the next cotton-growing season. According to Atul Ganatra, President of CAI, “The lowered crop estimate is mainly due to crop damage because of severe pink bollworm infestation and scarcity of water in some states.” While the production is expected to be lower, good news is that domestic consumption in India is on the rise due to new spinning mills in Gujarat and other states, which has resulted in 3.5 million additional spindles in India.

For Better Tomorrow

R e t a i l e r s To d a y

Walmart launched four new clothing brands to compete with its rival Amazon & Target Desk Report US-based retail giant Walmart Inc. has launched four private label clothing brands on 1st March to battle against rival Amazon and Target which is rapidly gaining market share in apparel and clothing. On February 27, 2018, it has released a press note to its websites. New brands are Time and Tru for women size range from XS to XXXL, Terra & Sky is a woman plus size brand for sizes 14W to 30W, Wonder Nation for Kids available in sizes 4 to 18 and George a previously existing brand now focused exclusively on men available in sizes S through XXXL. Celebrity stylist Elizabeth Stewart launched the new brands and shared insights on apparel trends for the season. US business magazine Forbes has reported, Walmart’s new brand is to compete with Amazon and Target, recent growth in the same business category. “Walmart has been playing catch-up for the past few years compared to Amazon and Target, which have doubled down on the apparel and home

Amazon also recently launched its first home furnishing lines in November. Target has also expanded its home goods sections, with brands like Threshold, Project 62, Hearth & Hand with Magnolia, and most recently the eclectic brand called Opalhouse. Walmart has, in turn, decided to launch its own home shopping site for decor and furniture- Forbes cited.

goods category, building their businesses with private labels” Forbes quoted. Recently a survey was conducted by Coresight (formerly Fung Global Retail & Technology), an independent firm focused on retail and technology, on around 1,699 consumers and found in some respects Amazon was grabbing market share away from Target and Walmart.

Figure: Recently Walmart launched four new clothing brands to compete with its rival Amazon & Target.

“We’re making a big capital investment and offering shoppers a new experience,” Deanah Baker, Walmart senior vice president, general merchandise, and apparel, said to Women’s Wear Daily, a fashion-industry trade journal sometimes called “The Bible of fashion’. “We’ll have better service and inspire the customer with more signage, inspiration with greater displays and new and brighter lighting.” The new apparel brands deliver comfort and quality with improvements such as stretch where it matters, soft fabrics, tagless garments as adjustable waistbands. New brands price is being affordable and the range is less than $5 to $30 to fit everyone’s budget- Walmart website announced the preceding launching of new brands. Each brand will have its own page at Walmart.com, which is getting an overall revamp this year that includes a more polished presentation of furniture as well as apparel. MarketWatch, a US-based financial information website that provides business news, analysis, and stock market data, reported Walmart shares are up 29% for the past year. Amazon shares are up 79% or the period and Target’s stock is up 28.6%.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Industry Insight

124 risky RMG units ignoring the government order for closures Desk Report Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) oﬃcially informed that one hundred and twenty-four readymade garment factories in Dhaka and Chittagong have been running their business in risky buildings, ignoring the government order for closures.

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During the initial inspections on structural integrity, and fire and electrical safety conducted by two buyers’ groups, Accord and Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety and a government-ILO joint initiative, inspectors found serious safety risks in the buildings in which 163 RMG factories were housed. According to DIFE, Complying with the government order, authorities of only 39 factories relocated their units from the risky buildings while the rest 124 units are still running their business in the buildings without carrying out any renovation on the structures. According to the Labour Ministry, the labour secretary would sent a letter to Rajdhani Unnayan Kartripakkha and Chittagong Unnayan Kartripakkha seeking cooperation to shut down all types of operations including garment business in the risky buildings

Minimum effect on shade Low temperature soluble

Figure: Thousands of garment workers are working in risky building as the factory owners are ignoring the government order for closures.

“RMG factories housed in risky buildings have to suspend their production and buildings owners also have to ensure building safety prior to accommodating any establishment in their buildings,’ DIFE Inspector General Md Shamsuzzaman Bhuiyan said. He said the DIFE under the Labour Ministry has the authority to shut down any establishment but the department would seek cooperation from RAJUK and CUK in this regard. According to the DIFE oﬃcials, after the Rana Plaza building collapse in 2013 EU buyers’ platform Accord, North American buyers’ group Alliance and the government-led national initiative inspected total 3,780 RMG factories across the country.

For Better Tomorrow

Advertorial

SHIMA SEIKI EXHIBITED NEW TECHNOLOGY AT DTG 2018 The 15th Dhaka International Textile and Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG) was held from 8th to 11th February 2018 at Bangabandhu International Convention Centre. With the collaboration of Pacific Associates Ltd, SHIMA SEIKI Mfg., Ltd Japan has displayed their latest technologies for Sweater Manufacturing Machine like SDS-ONE-APEX3, SVR123SP, SWG091N2, SSR112SV, SHIMA KnitPLM. Besides SHIMA SEIKI launched this exhibition automatic cutting machine Shima P-Cam for apparel Industry. Huge crowd & potential customer visited their booth & appreciated the exciting features like slide needle, virtual sampling, i-plating, etc. Many potential buyers expressed their interest to equip then industry with the latest technology of SHIMA SEIKI Machine. SDS-ONE-APEX3: APEX3 is at the core of SHIMA SEIKI’s “Total Fashion System” notion. SHIMTRONIC Design system has made it possible for both planning and production to share a comprehensive image of the design before an actual sample is produced, drastically improving the efficiency of the production process. By doing so, significant time compression is achieved from product planning to sample making, which allows instant response to fashion trend and early market domination of products. SDS-ONE also features design and colorway tool, as well as various other functions specialized in planning and designing of apparel products. With complete support of all aspects throughout the apparel supply chain, SDS-ONE-APEX3 provides all the functions you need to take advantage of the integrated workflow promoted as the total fashion system. The machine includes a user-friendly interface, an on-board Color Management System (CMS). Photo-realistic simulation capability allows Virtual Sampling to minimize the costly, time-consuming sample making process while enhancing the quality of exposition. To sum things up, SHIMATRONIC Design System provides you with everything you need to create high-quality productions with high fashion apparel. SVR123SP: The SVR series of SHIMA SEIKI has undoubtedly been the global standard in computerized shaping machines for quite some time. Now with loop presser, SVR 093SP and SVR123SP are capable of producing unparalleled designs in knit and weave characteristics to produce hybrid textiles. The inserted i-plating option offers inverse-plating capability, in which different yarns can be shown alternately on the fabric surface in plain jersey stitch. Unlike conventional forced- operation-type machines, this machine provides gentle hold down movement and yields ideal loop formation. SVR series also contains the world’s first digital stitch device, DSCS (Digital Stitch Control System), which is patented to SHIMA SEIKI. The series also contains advanced Rapid Response (R2CARRIAGE) system and WIDEGAUGE Knitting facility. These contemporary, proven technologies, along with made-in-Japan quality, reliability, productivity, user-friendliness and increased patterning capability can certainly satisfy the high expectations of today’s fashion industry. SSR112SV: In the spirit of developing the most advanced technology while keeping it affordable, SHIMA SEIKI has reinvented the knitting technology. They have come up with a completely new computerized flat knitting machine that only they could have built: SSR112. The SSR112 inherits the know-how and experience accumulated over the years as the leading manufacturer of computerized flat knitting machines. Productivity is increased with a maximum knitting speed of 1.2 meters per second, as well as with the R2CARRIAGE system that achieves quicker carriage returns. It also carries over proven SHIMA SEIKI technology such as our renowned Digital Stitch Control System (DSCS), spring-loaded Full-Sinker System, Stitch Presser, Yarn Gripper and Cutter and Takedown Comb. The Rapid Response R2CARRIAGE system features an

advanced carriage mechanism combined with improved software programming that achieves quicker carriage returns after each course. This machine simply embodies the innovation in the field of knitting to the level best with benchmark technology and the best user-friendly, state of the art interface. SSR112SV was made without any compromise in Japan to satisfy the high expectations of the world’s fashion industry. SWGN091N2: The new “SWGN2” series is SHIMA SEIKI’s compact class of WHOLEGARMENT knitting machines. The machine features our renowned slide needle SWG091N2. SHIMA SEIKI has reinvented the most basic element of knitting, the needle. The new slide needle is the result of a thorough re-evaluation of the 150 years old design of the conventional latch needle. The new model also introduces auto yarn carrier, full-color LCD touch-sensitive control panel, and SHIMA SEIKI’s proven R2CARRIAGE system. Advanced carriage mechanism, combined with improved software programming achieves quicker carriage returns after each course, resulting in higher productivity. In addition to their established reputation in the fashion industry, the SWGN2 series is also capable of producing technical textiles, such as industrial material, sports, medical and safety, expanding your business potential far beyond present limits. SHIMA KnitPLM: The global market demands more diversity in the products than ever before. One of the newest additions to our fashion industry is SHIMA KnitPLM. This machine exploits the modern esoteric demand of the diversified demographic, which is a result of globalization. This huge task demands higher speed, shorter cycle, and sustainable growth. The loT technology successfully joins SHIMA SEIKI’s products with our customers’, ERP, and SCM core system offering enormous traceability level and productivity throughout stages in the value chain. As this technology maintains an extraordinary amount of data-link between systems, it allows automated workforce, reduced workload and required data input for each level. P-CAM: SHIMA SEIKI’s P-CAM machine has exciting features like suction Chamber Conveyor System, Double-Cut prevention Function, cutting speed auto set function, and cutting table brush. In a word, the P-CAM series accumulates computerized cutting machines (Automatic cutting machines), with an already established reputation for their high efficiency, productivity, and quality that has been renovated across its entire line. Faster and smoother head movement of the machine improves productivity. A low vibration, low noise head is incorporated to achieve a desirable, low noise working environment. There are some optional, lucrative features like turbo fan, which suppresses function in air pressure for stable multiply cutting. By housing, the conveyor system inside the suction chamber, cutting waste can be disposed of continuously. The automatic cutting machines are the perfect choice for flexible high-volume production in a new era of global apparel production.

Industry Insight

Survey exposes 72 percent garments workers have no contract Staﬀ Correspondent

More than 72 percent of the garments workers do not have any appointment letter in Dhaka and Gazipur industrial area, according to a survey of Manusher Jonno Foundation (MJF), a nongovernmental organization. This survey titled ‘Garment Workers and Rights’ was conducted in 770 workers of Dhaka, Chittagong, Gazipur and Narayanganj industrial area. According to the survey, in Chittagong and Narayanganj 59.49 percent of the workers do not have contracts in their hands. A contract is important for garment workers when it comes to making claims, especially in cases of workplace accidents like the Rana Plaza collapse and Tazreen Fashions fire, said industry experts. The survey also found, 82.9 percent of the workers have never encountered any sexual violence in factories in Chittagong and Narayanganj area. However, they shared many stories of harassment

“This survey is not properly made, Bangladesh garments industry is now more developed in compliance area due to Accord and Alliance. We provide appointment letter, Identity card and lots of facilities for our workers,” Fazle Shamim Ehasan, Vice President of BKMEA and Managing Director of Fatullah Apparels Ltd.

and violence in the factory ﬂoor during open discussion. According to report, workers face very bad behavior from supervisors, production managers or general managers and the use of expletives for any mistake for

their work. Bangladesh garments sector employee nearly 40 lakh, where 80 percent are women. The report says, 28.4 percent of the workers in Dhaka and Gazipur and 35 percent in Narayanganj and Chittagong are working under the impression that they can be terminated from their jobs without any notice. In Narayanganj and Chittagong, 89.8 percent of the workers said they had no relation with trade unions. “This survey is not properly right, Bangladesh garments industry is now more developed in compliance area due to Accord and Alliance. We provide appointment letter, Identity card and lots of facilities for our workers,” said Fazle Shamim Ehasan, Vice President of BKMEA and Managing Director of Fatullah Apparels Ltd. Ms. Shaheen Anam, Executive Director of MJF said that those who are involved in laborious work like in the garment sector are usually neglected in Bangladesh. Although things are changing due to formulation of the labour law, she added The government will be building two specialized hospitals in Gazipur and Narayanganj for low-cost treatment of the workers said, Mojibul Haque Chunne, State Minister for the Ministry of Labor.

Figure: Female garment workers.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Survey also said that worker’s salary should be provided as per the government’s garment sector wage board decisions and a separate monitoring body should also be installed by the labour and employment ministry.

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Transforming Human Capital

News and Analysis

Effective diversification of jute and jute products urged for further growth in global market Staﬀ Correspondent Bangladesh observed National Jute Day on March 6, 2018, for the second time. Jute sector is seeing the light of hope as the government has undertaken numerous initiatives to revive its golden age while jute fiber was called golden fiber of Bangladesh. Chairman of Bangladesh Jute Mill Corporation (BJMC) Dr. Mahmudul Hasan said, there is huge demand of jute and jute goods of Bangladesh in around 60 countries, but we are failing to exploit these huge export potentials properly because we are lagging behind in production and diversification of jute and jute products. The government has taken special measures to produce quality jute and diversify jute products. Along with extending policy support, the government has increased cash incentive for diversification of jute products, said Mahmudul Hasan. Jute and jute goods export maintain a steady growth as the country earn $66.18 crore in the first seven months (July-January) of the current fiscal year (FY2017-18), which is 17.36% up from the previous fiscal year 2016-17, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). During July-January period of FY2017-18 earnings from raw jute export were $95.5 million, jute yarn and kundali were $414.6 million, jute sack and bag were $92.5 million and other jute products were $70.3 million. According to Bangladesh Jute Research Institute

414.6

Figure 2: Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina was visiting different stalls of the jute product fair at Bangabandhu International Conference Centre (BICC) on 6th March marking the National Jute Day. (Photo: PID)

Corporation (BJMC) produced 95,000 metric tons of jute goods in FY 2014-15. The BJMC earned Tk1,156.53 crore against the expenditure of Tk1,850 crore. In last fiscal year, the BJMC mills incurred a loss of Tk693.56 crore. However, the amount of loss has come down a lot during the current fiscal year. According to the ministry of textile and Jute, the government has undertaken various projects such as conducting more research, formulating new regulations, reforming jute mills, and imposing ecotax on polythene to encourage people to use jute products. In addition, Recently Bangladesh Jute Mill Corporation (BJMC) has planned to establish jute industrial villages. State Minister Mirza Azam said, “The loss of the BJMC has been lowered to Tk180 crore in the current fiscal. The prime minister considers BJMC a ‘disabled child’ of the state. So, we are keeping an eye on BJMC.”

95.5

RAW JUTE

92.5 JUTE YARN AND KUNDALI

JUTE SAC AND BAGS

70.3 OTHERS JUTE PRODUCTS

Figure 1: Jute export in FY 2017-18 (July-January) in millions of $(Source: EPB)

(BJRI), in 2010, 700,000-800,000 bales of jute were harvested on 750,000 hectares of land across the country. In 2017, jute was cultivated on 817,000 hectares of land. Farmers hope more than 9.2 million bales of jute will be harvested this year. Textiles and Jute Minister Md Emaz Uddin Pramanik said that jute mills under the Bangladesh Jute Mills

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

Jute bags have been created in the domestic market. Along with inspiring jute farmers, the industry is making its way into the international market with the slogan ‘Bengal’s jute win hearts around the world, said Mirza Azam. The Jute Diversification Promotion Centre (JDPC) has innovated 235 jute goods to promote jute in the global market, he added. Recently a memorandum of understanding has also been signed with a Chinese company for the modernization of three jute mills under BJMC. 93

Investment

BEZA to allot 500 acres land to BGMEA in Mirsharai EZ to upsurge apparel export Staﬀ Correspondent Bangladesh Economic Zone Authority (BEZA) is going to allot 500 acres of land to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) for setting up a well-planned readymade garments industry park in the Mirsarai economic zone of Chittagong to increase apparel export. In this connection, a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) has been signed between the two organizations at the Radisson Blu Hotel in Dhaka on 21 March. Under the memorandum, entrepreneurs will establish their industrial units or relocate there factories in the zone. According to the MoU they will get all kind of facilities, including tax exemptions on business earnings. Investors will also enjoy exemptions from VAT on electricity and taxes on sale and selfgenerated or purchased electricity for 10 years. Paban Chowdhury, Executive Chairman of the BEZA, said that this garments park will help the garment makers to earn $50 billion by 2021 and increase the export competitiveness of local apparel manufacturers through reducing the cost of transportation as the proposed park is located very close to the Chittagong port. BGMEA has a target to export $50 billion worth of apparels by 2021, but it has no roadmap to achieve the target, Paban Chowdhury added. “We will offer competitive incentive package, one stop service and we will promote and protect investment in the economic zone for our valued investors,”said Paban Chowdhury. BGMEA, President , Siddiqur

Figure 1: Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association president Md Siddiqur Rahman and Bangladesh Economic Zone Authority Executive Member Md Harunur Rahsid exchanged documents after signing the MoU at the programme held at the Radisson Blu Hotel on 21 March in the capital.

Rahman said, “We will invest $2 billion for setting up RMG and garment accessories factories at the proposed garment park for generating employment for 5 lakh people”. He also said, “We will start the process of building factories within the end of this year. I hope the government will provide all types of entrepreneurial facilities at the park”. “Anyone from home and abroad can purchase land at the zone for establishing garment factories,” he said. Honorable Chief Guest Abul Kalam Azad, Principal Coordinator

(SDGs) said, “It is one of the big milestone and opportunity for Bangladesh Garments sector.” “We will make value added product from the basic items for achieving 50 billion target in garments sector by 2021. Very soon we will hiring fashion designer from Italy and USA for support our local fashion designer for making innovative items,” said Commerce Secretary, Shubhashish Bose. Principal coordinator for SDGs of Prime Minister’s Oﬃce Md Abul Kalam Azad, Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry President Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, BEZA Executive member M Emdadul Haque, former BGMEA President Md Atiqul Islam, Exporters Association of Bangladesh President Abdus Salam Murshedy were present, among others, at the programme.

Figure 2: Paban Chowdhury, Executive Chairman of the BEZA

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

In Focus

Elastane (Spandex) filament care from spinning to end use washing Jahidul Hoque Majumder (Shipon), AGM (Project Head), Noman Textile Mills Ltd

In current fashion trend use of stretch fabric compiled with cotton, polyester, viscose, tencel is increasing day by day. Recent past this fiber was being used mainly to produce specially ladies skinny garments but recently it’s being widely used in ladies, gents, kids even swim and sports ware as well. Globally, the demand of spandex is increasing day by day and many diversified spandex applications are coming out gradually. In Bangladesh, the second largest apparel exporter, uses of spandex is also growing. The main reason of increasing use of spandex fabric tremendously is due to elasticity property and comfort. Currently, global spandex consumption market is 800,000 tonnes while China alone consumes 500,000 tonnes of it. In Bangladesh, there is about 10,000 to 12,000 tonnes spandex demand every year. Use of spandex in Bangladesh is increasing rapidly. Spandex breakage/damage is a severe problem and common phenomenon during stretch fabric processing. Sometimes spandex fault (called in another name Lycra missing) is not detected during fabric manufacturing or fabric processing but it comes out more prominently after garments wash. Washing is the last process of fiber to apparel processing and last stage detection mean ultimately loss of garments FOB. This article is the second of the author written on the topic. The first one was published in Textile Today January 2018 issue. The article was titled ‘Factors to be considered for improving stretch fabric performance’. Following 5 major problems are generally observed during spandex fabric processing.

• Tension variation in fabric i.e. core spandex not in the center position of sheath. • Width variation in the same roll may occur during weaving or processing. Spandex filament is very sensitive to heat, alkali, chlorine bleach and abrasion as well. Below are some precaution suggestions that can help to improve or some case can fully eliminate this type of problems. Spinning stage: • Using uniform roving and good quality spandex filament during spinning. • Using special attachment called Amsler. In conventional system in a core spinning while a spandex filament break the particular spindle not detouched from roving and sheath yarn and spinning on going. While using Amsler attachment particular roving atomically cut off once spandex filament break. This can avoid spandex/ lycra missing completely. • Take care on spandex path/ guide on ring frame as if the spandex filament can keep onto the center of the yarn. i.e. maintain good core covering. This can help to improve tension variation problem in greige fabric. • Ensuring uniform spandex drafting all over the ring frame, using same spandex brand also using same age spandex yarn in a lot which can improve width variation as well as elongation variation problem. • Need to select optimum core sheath ratio and spandex draft. Recommended draft range as table 1. Table 1: Recommended ‘Draft’ against spandex filament/spun yarn count.

• Spandex/elastane missing (spandex filament missing through width of fabric)

Spandex count (Denier)

Draft Range

Typical core spun count (Ne)

• Spandex /elastane damage (due to heat application during fabric processing)

2.0- 2.5

40-60

3.2- 3.5

30-50

3.5- 3.8

10-20

105

3.5- 4.0

6-16

• Spandex /elastane come out (spandex filament cut and come out on fabric surface)

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03

In Focus

• Before spinning spandex filament storage environment should keep same. Recommended storage temp below is 300C, storage time should not exceed more than 3-4 month. Within 3-4 months spandex filament has to be used as ‘first in first out’ basis otherwise elongation /width variation problem can arise. Weaving stage: • During weaving use maximum no of weft feeder. The more feeder the more weft mixing and minimize tension and width variation. • For stretch fabric weaving rapier loom can produce better quality compared to air jet loom as in rapier loom pick insertion tension is more regular than air jet. Pick insertion path should be smooth. • When weaving compact stretch fabric, heavy bit up or bumping may occur which may cause core spandex cut off or damage. Such case to reduce bit up adjust back rest and frame height and shed angle need to be reduced as much as possible. Also do not use sharp or defected dent reed. • Greige age is a factor to get consistent shrinkage and elasticity during processing. So, greige fabric should be used up in processing as quickly as possible. Processing stage: • Spandex fiber is heat sensitive. Although spandex melting temperature is 2300C, Elastane properties may be affected or be damaged at temperature above 1800C. So care should be taken on temperature from pretreatment to finishing. • Hot alkali can damage spandex. During mercerizing, need to maintain caustic concentration not more than 250gpl or 250 Be (Baume) and impregnation time should not exceed 50 second. • Care should be taken on CBR (Continuous Bleaching Range) cylinder dryer temperature as if

fabric is properly dried and not over dried. • When heat set on stenter - heat chamber temp should be within the range of 1500C to 1750C and must not exceed 1800C. In the stenter, First 4/5 heat chamber is used for drying and rest exposes heat on spandex. Precaution should be taken as if heat exposing time not exceeds 15 second. • Also stenter machine speed need to be adjusted subject to fabric GSM and to maintain dwelling time 30 second to max 40 second. Garmenting stage: • Fabric have to be kept in a relax system for at least a day in order to preshrunk before wash. • When fabric is laying for cutting, lay thickness and laying tension should be kept in optimum to avoid heat and static electricity generation in between layers. • Use rotary knife during cutting and preciously cut curvature area of pattern. • During stitching use ball point needle instead of sharp needle and also change the needle after 2/3 hour of sewing. Special type of SPI fine needle is very effective for stretch fabric stitching. • Based on fabric cover factor select appropriate swing thread, stretch type and SPI. Compact fabric should be sewn in fine thread low SPI.

Garment washing stage: • Chlorine bleach can damage and weaken spandex filament. Low concentrate (35%) chlorinated bleach can be used but use of high concentrate is forbidden. • All kind of alkali use is forbidden during desizing and scouring alternatively acid enzyme can be used. In all process pH should be within the range of 6 to 8. • Keep M:L ratio as maximum as possible in order to reduce beat up inside washing machine. • Avoid use of stone during washing. • Use low temperature formaldehyde resin instead high temperature. • Use dummy during rubbing, destroy or any dry process. • There is change of spandex damage during different dry process in washing. i.e. – during whiskering , sand blasting , destroy , PP spraying or 3D curing. End use caring: • Do not use hot water when washing. • For spandex garments hand wash is more suitable than machine wash. No dry cleaning. • Never use chlorine bleach to remove stain from the fabric. • Use low temperature iron and keep the iron moving on the fabric and never leave the iron on one spot for too long.

• Take care during back stitch and thick area sewing and all kind of bartack stitching (if required) should be carried on after garment washing. • Sewing allowances should be kept as maximum as possible which will help to slip out spandex filament from the core. • Never use hot gun to remove potassium permanganate (PP)/ contamination from finished fabric or finishing stage of garmenting.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 03