Textile Today | November 2017

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 10 |

Issue 11 |

10

years of Publication

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 November 2017 www.textiletoday.com.bd

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Sub Editor Akhi Akter Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member Md. Muddassir Rashid Amzad Hossain Monir Md. Abdul Jobber Rakibul Islam Tania Khatun Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 12th December 2017 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. Š All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2017 Volume 10, Issue 10 (November 2017) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 10 |

Issue 11 |

On the Cover Driving business with knowledge

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Bangladesh one of the most transparent apparel manufacturers in the world

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Rationalization of Bangladesh cotton import

Bangladesh

10

years of Publication

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 November 2017 www.textiletoday.com.bd

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in h Madelades Bang

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ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well know Germany based textile auxiliaries and specialty chemical manufacturer.

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Editorial

‘Managing Cotton’, an inevitable challenge to cotton spinning mills Abdul Wadud, Consultant, TRANSFORM Email: awadud.transform@gmail.com Introduction Managing cotton is an INTERDEPENDENT job. It is not only the farmers who mange the cotton, rather it is the whole value chain of cotton from farmers, ginners, merchants, agents, spinning mills, knitting and woven mills, dyeing and finishing mills, readymade garments, brands and retailers, to end customers.

Again there are many supporting and interlinked functions and entities that exists like; scientists, researchers, government bodies, NGOs, agriculturists, trainers, different sustainable initiatives, civil society, seed companies, fertilizer companies, chemical companies, transport, warehousing and logistic companies, insurance, financial institutions, risk management consultants, experts, media, etc.

Our discussion would be confined to cotton spinning mills only.

While managing cotton in a spinning mill can encounter two types of risks; A) Controllable/ Unsystematic Risk and B) Uncontrollable/ Systematic/Market Risk.

When we talk about managing risk on cotton, we basically talk about the risk that can be minimized, called Controllable risk. A spinning mill can manage cotton well if the following major jobs are addressed methodologically: 1. Choice of Cotton 2. Cotton flow chart, followed by a comprehensive and dynamic cotton management plan 3. Addressing unexpected situations and 4. Price Fixation and Risk Management Choice of cotton Starting point is to make a choice for cotton, it saves a lot of cost and minimizes lots of unnecessary

12

wastes or MUDA, called in Lean Management.

Choice of inferior specifications would lead to inferior quality and product while choice of higher specification would result in excessive material cost reducing profit and sustainability. This is the gateway or starting point and is very important to ensure sustainability of spinning business.

There is no quick-fix to it as each mill is unique and can be largely different in many ways; like: • Why in cotton spinning business?

• Target market, product, price and place • Count and count range • Technology • Condition of machine • Condition and availability of support and service machinery • Power situation & Humidification System •P eople behind the machine people plan and management • Delegation of authority and responsibility •F inancial leverage and strength • Marketing plan Comprehensive cotton management plan Cotton consist of 50%90% cost of ‘Cost of Goods Sold (COGS)’, depending on the product and market.

So, it is no secret that it is one of the key elements to success and failure for a cotton spinning mill. Then does it not require special emphasis, to build a comprehensive plan backed by systematic process and professional approach?

In Bangladesh it is mostly done by the entrepreneurs while very few mills like BEXIMCO, SQUARE, VIYELLATEX, PAHARTOLI, etc., have tried to do it through professionals and has been able to deal it better than other mills. The point is, not to must have a professional team but at least to deal it with due

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Editorial diligence and importance.

Price fixation and risk management

If we check the records of cotton spinning mills that were less affected by the unprecedented market behavior of 2010, definitely they were equipped better, compared to those mills who suffered. Are we sure that another abnormal market is not waiting for us to affect by 2021?

In the 90’s none of the Bangladeshi mills bought cotton on call and all cotton procurement were on the basis of fixed price. It is only since 2015 spinners started booking cotton less at fixed price basis than buying on call. This is a positive change and it reflects maturity of our spinning industry.

Having a comprehensive cotton management plan can only safeguard from unsystematic risks, but market risk or systematic risk, still remains. Managing or minimizing unsystematic risk effectively can assure wealth maximization, increasing value of the company.

Addressing unexpected situations

In the 90’s none of the Bangladeshi mills bought cotton on call and all cotton procurement were on the basis of fixed price. It is only since 2015 spinners started booking cotton less at fixed price basis than buying on call. This is a positive change and it reflects maturity of our spinning industry.

Buying at fixed price or on call is not the solution to have the right price for cotton. Rather managing price consistently at market, in line with the change of the market, is the key element to success.

It requires deep interest, spontaneous analysis, information, knowledge, passion and experience.

In the developed markets mills consults with expert professionals and our mills can also choose to do it.

Cotton is a business that is concluded by word Buying at fixed price or of mouth and it is very Cotton is a commodity on call is not the solution important to ensure sanctity and traded and hedged in to have the right price for of contract by addressing the International Cotton cotton.

Rather managing the interest of both buyer Exchange (ICE). Cotton price consistently at market, and sellers. International derivatives assist risk in line with the change of the cotton trade is mostly done management. But the market, is the key element based on the rules and fundamental to all of this to success.

It requires regulations of International is to be able to identify deep interest, spontaneous Cotton Association (ICA). the market price that is analysis, information, In order to safeguard the an average market price knowledge, passion and interest of buyer and seller, and attain it consistently. experience.

In the developed it is very important that This may require use of markets mills consults with the value chain becomes derivatives to minimize expert professionals and our the member of ICA and risk from time to time. In mills can also choose to do it. takes part in the dialogue, a market where technical discussion and negotiation outperform fundamentals in setting the right set of it is essential to have some bylaws that would ensure risk minimization package trust and ethical business. and it varies from individual to individual as the Bangladeshi spinners are in the right direction and it backgrounds and appetite for risk are unique for is a pride that Chairman of Ispahani Group, Salman each mill.

Ispahani, has become the President of ICA, 1st time ever from Bangladesh. We wish he will be able to In the background there are fundamental analysis, contribute in formulating and breezing the gaps that technical analysis, weather, oil price, US Dollar, would ensure the rights of spinners that are logical price of synthetic fiber, fashion outlook and and design proper disincentives for entities who are changes in demand, geo-political changes, spec opportunist violators of sanctity of contract. fund movements and many more. It is a matter of perseverance and passion for identifying and keep Cotton is a natural commodity and in spite of all on questioning, challenging and keep on learning efforts there can be deviation in shipment, quantity, about it over time. There no constant answer quality, etc. In case of such deviations appropriate because market and the world is always changing. knowledge on the ICA rules is an important guideline The challenge has to be addressed systematically in proceeding for such situations. Another part is and professionally as it comes. what is to be done with the non-availability or underquality cotton which is a contingency plan, as well as a situational plan.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Cover Story

Why some apparel orders are going to India from Bangladesh?

Staff Correspondent Bangladesh’s export earnings from the apparel industry, the lifeline of foreign currency earners, have seen only a 0.20% rise reaching to $28.15 billion in 2016-17 financial year. The growth of the year has been the lowest on record in the last one and a half decades. Whereas for India apparel export reached to USD 17.5 billion in FY 2016-17 from USD 16.8 billion export of FY 2015-16 securing around 12 percent growth.

When asked why Indian apparel export is increasing fast but not the same for Bangladesh, Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Siddiqur Rahman said, “Garments buyers are going to Indian market from Bangladesh due to inefficient port facility and extra lead-time”. He also informed that the value of taka against dollar, poor infrastructure and shortage of power and gas are the key challenges for the export oriented RMG sector.

India recently is expecting to earn USD 20 billion in FY 2017-18 banked on the competitive advantages the country has got recently. Bangladesh on the contrary is fighting heard with the cost increase and infrastructure back logs. BGMEA asked for

immediate policy support from the government.

According to BGMEA, the government meanwhile has ordered all the ports including the port of Chittagong to remain open for 24 hours for 7 days of the week to ease the export activities. The government has also taken several positive steps at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport, which has reduced the lead-time.

There are many reasons behind the export growth decrease; hence buyers are going to other competitive countries.

Table 1: The competitive advantage of the currencies for export against USD. Bangladesh(Tk) Pakistan(Rupee)

-7.66 +15.39

India(Rupee)

+40.1

Turkey (Lira)

+102

Vietnam(Dong)

+4.91

China(Yuan)

+4.95

Sri-Lanka(Rupee)

+23.54

Currency depreciation against USD in competitive countries hit Bangladeshi garment exporters the most. The currency itself is giving huge advantage to countries like India as shown in table 1. With continuous increase in salaries, gas and electricity price, system losses Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers are struggling to keep the advantage over the major competing countries. According to BGMEA, Garments production cost has increased near 18.01 percent in last two years in Bangladesh.

Table 2: Cost increase for Bangladesh garment manufactures in %.

Salary Accessories, Packaging, Washing Power Gas

Figure1: BGMEA President Siddiqur Rahman

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C&F/Freight/Transport

32.35 4.88 15 7.14 40

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Cover Story

Colaboration Today

Table 2 shows the cost components which are increasing rapidly for Bangladeshi garment makers.

Some of the similar costs are also increasing in competitive countries but the rate of increment is much high in Bangladesh.

The structure of Indian textile industry is also an advantage for them. As India has allowed global apparel brands to open their stores in India with a close that at least 30 percent of their products have be made in Bangladesh, the apparel manufacturing Industry of India is getting another advantage. This policy has helped India to keep the manufacturing of global brands in their domestic factories.

When Indian local consumption is getting stronger, the apparel manufacturers are likely to gain more advantages in coming days.

The impact of Indian advantages is also reflected in Bangladesh’s apparel export to India.

136.22 104.25

EU to support trade development and promotion between Bangladesh and Netherlands Staff Correspondent European Union always supports on bi-lateral trade development and promotion between the Netherlands and Bangladesh, said H.E. Rensje Teerink, Ambassador and Head of Delegation of the European Union to Bangladesh. She expressed contentment on the rewarding relationship between EU and Bangladesh and assures her maximum support in the coming days.

129.8

96.25 75.21

2012-13 2013-14

2014-15

2015-16

2016-17

Figure 2: Apparel exports from Bangladesh to India in millions of USD, Source: EPB

The figure 2 showed that, in the last fiscal year, garment shipments from Bangladesh to India, a market of more than $40 billion, fetched $129.81 million, down 4.85 percent year-on-year.

BGMEA President said, “All factory owners have implemented corrective action plans in time stipulated by the Accord and Alliance, the initiatives would not need to extend their tenure in Bangladesh”, said Siddiqur Rahman.

Extensive interventions of initiatives like Accord and Alliance in Bangladesh has also hit Bangladeshi apparel makers. Bangladesh had to go through a major safety transformation for last four years.

This process has made Bangladesh as one of the safest places for garment making now. But within the transformation period some global buyers went to India. Meanwhile apparel makers had to invest a lot for complying Accord, Alliance other regulatory requirements. As initiatives like Accord, Alliance was not applicable for countries like India, they could remain their advantage over Bangladesh.

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Figure: Distinguished guests were present in the event.

Recently Dutch-Bangla Chamber of Commerce & Industry (DBCCI) arranged a reception and dinner program in honour of Ms. Rensje Teerink on November 7, 2017 at the Westin hotel in the capital.

DBCCI President Mr. Faruque Hassan mentioned the significant contribution of European Union to Bangladesh in infrastructure, skill development and other government projects. He also thanked to the honorable guests for their kind presence.

H.E. Ms. Leoni Margaretha Cuelenaere, Ambassador, Embassy of the Kingdom of Netherlands; Mr. Kazi M. Aminul Islam, Executive Chairman, Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA); to Mr. Hashan Mahmood Chowdhury, Vice President, DBCCI; Mr. Javier Carlos Santoja Olcina, Managing Director, Inditex, ZARA; Mr. Gustaf ASP, Bangladesh & Pakistan Regional Head, H&M Bangladesh; Mr. Naveed Sattar, Senior Director, Bangladesh Hub Leader, Walmart; Honorable Ambassadors, Honorary Consuls, Presidents of National and Bi-lateral Chambers, other government high officials, CEO & Managing Directors of different MNCs, Banks and prominent business houses and distinguished members of DBCCI attended the event.

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To p S t o r y

Accord sets conditions for departure to serve their own interest Akhi Akter The Accord on Building and Fire Safety in Bangladesh has set some conditions for departure from the country Bangladesh after getting six more months from its due date of tenure termination. In reaction of the conditions Bangladesh garments manufacturers said that Accord is searching scope for staying in Bangladesh for their own benefit.

After the Tazreen fashion factory fire on November 24, 2012 and the Rana Plaza building collapse on April 24, 2013, the Accord, a platform of European apparel buyers, (although it has 15 American signatories) and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, the “North American” initiative, started working to ensure work place and workers safety in 2013 for five years and their tenure will expire by May 31, 2018, as per the agreement.

and to hold discussions with in-country constituents including the Ministry of Labour, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the ILO and bi-lateral country missions.

In the meeting Tofail Ahmed took the decision of winding up operations of the Alliance for Workers Safety in the country within the deadline, 31 May 2018, while Accord on Fire and Building Safety has been given six more months to close operations.

Commerce Minister said, " The handover process to the National Initiative might be delayed after the deadline expires. For that, Accord will need a transitional period and that will be six month. This period will be termed as ‘Transitional Accord’.”

Overall remediation progress at 80% 100% remediation from initial inspections at 120 factories Safety Committee training curriculum completed at 159 factories 90% or more remediation at 665 factories 208 health and safety complaints resolved

It is known to all that on 29 June Accord unilaterally declared to extend its tenure until 2021, which was highly criticized by the government and the garments organizations of Bangladesh. At that time, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed told the journalists, “The signatories could have discussed (it) with the stakeholders before taking such an important decision. The accord’s signatories could have sent a proposal to the government. I asked the diplomats to send the extension of the accord as a proposal. We will discuss the proposal and then take the decision”.

The Accord Steering Committee met from 16 to 19 October 2017 in Dhaka for their quarterly meeting

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Interestingly, Accord informed by an official statement on 30 October that safety program of Bangladesh Accord will continue beyond May 2018.

Though they mentioned there that ‘Transition Accord’ is for six months, rather tone was that “it could be more until their conditions are not achieved.”

Mohammad Hatem, former Vice President of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said “Accord has taught us safety issues and done many good deeds for our garment industry and we are grateful, but why will they stay as already 80 percent work has been done in factory repairing?”

“Accord is creating problem intentionally for rest 20 percent work only for their own interest. Every

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To p S t o r y

month they are suggesting new technology, new safety requirements,” he said. “Some miscreants people and countries cannot tolerate the economic growth of Bangladesh and they are trying to destroy our industry by Accord,” he also said. “Accord’s head in Bangladesh was rejected from Bangladesh in 2005 for his negative role in spreading labor dissatisfaction,” he added.

Abdus Salam Murshedy, President of Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) and former President of BGMEA, said, “We have BUET, ILO, NFP who are capable to do remediation tasks.

As Accord has done almost 80 percent remediation of their factories, so that I do not see any logic to stay longer in Bangladesh.

They also need cost for managing their team, why they will stay here if the remediation work is done.”

“If our government does not agree they cannot stay here,” he added.

The statement said, until the goal is achieved, the Accord will continue, in cooperation with the Bangladeshi authorities. The leaders of the campaigns which played key role in forming Accord recently has published an article in a leading Bangladesh daily. The article tried to justify the necessity of Accord’s extension in Bangladesh. It highlighted the achievements of Accord mentioning the Some industry owners mentioned composure of Accord more legally in the clause of anonymity “It binding one putting more impact is for sure even if Accord gets than other two initiatives Alliance extended the situations will not and the ‘National Action Plan’ be in a condition that they can leave (as per the arguments of Accord) unless the program itself is not focused on capacity building of local regulatory and remediation programs. There is no justification of having a separate legally binding external/foreign program in a sovereign country particularly when it's government, businesses and people don't want it anymore.”

94.8% of factories have removed collapsible gates, so workers can escape easily in an emergency Most factories are in the process of ordering and installing the systems Full installation has been completed at 31.3% of the factories

Figure 2: Status of most common fire findings.

According to the Accord statement, national government has extended the Accord’s permission to operate beyond May 2018 and Accord will depart Bangladesh when local regulatory body demonstrates full capacity to inspect factories, compel remedies, and protect workers. Quoting Pascal Brun, H&M Head of Sustainability Global Production, the press statement says, “H&M is confident that the remarkable achievements of the 2013 Accord will be sustained through the ‘Transition Accord’ until it is demonstrated that a credible regulatory body with the rigorous oversight mechanisms can take over all Accord functions.”

Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL Global Union Assistant General Secretary and Accord Board member, says, “We have always aimed for the Accord functions to transition to a national regulatory body provided that the full capacity, transparency, and governance are in place and that we can be assured that the worker protections under the Accord continue to be safeguarded.”

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However the industry insiders have opined that the justifications the Accord is presenting for its extension themselves justify the failure of Accord. The objective of such external initiatives must be the capacity building and assisting the local authorities and counterparts.

It should never compete with local bodies and other similar initiatives they opined.

Some industry owners mentioned in the clause of anonymity “It is for sure even if Accord gets extended the situations will not be in a condition that they can leave (as per the arguments of Accord) unless the program itself is not focused on capacity building of local regulatory and remediation programs. There is no justification of having a separate legally binding external/foreign program in a sovereign country particularly when it's government, businesses and people don't want it anymore.”

When the government and BGMEA is asking Accord' s and the brands support in building and strengthening “Shonman” program in the wake of integrating and harmonizing the process, they should only do that. Accord should not think about their interest, rather they should think Bangladesh’s interest if they want to work for the betterment of Bangladesh.

Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturing companies have been losing its competitive advantage over last few years. Many have identified external interventions like Accord and Alliance as a great extra cost for them. It is to mention that such initiatives are not present in competing countries like India, Vietnam, China, Cambodia etc., though we all know that industrial accidents are not uncommon in those countries.

However Bangladesh has made use of the initiatives positively and has transformed its manufacturing base into one of the safest in the world.

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C ove r P l u s

Bangladesh one of the most transparent apparel manufacturers in the world BTEC Correspondent The Seventh edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo highlighted the need for transparency within the entire denim supply chain. The promotion and discussion of ‘Transparency’ from a manufacturing country like Bangladesh has attracted the attention of global buyers. The exhibition has held from 8 to 9 November 2017. Though the exhibition was mainly covering denim and allied industries the ‘Transparency’ theme was representing and explaining the whole apparel and textile manufacturing sector of Bangladesh.

‘Transparency’ has been the demand of consumers particularly backed by number of ‘Trade Traceability and Responsible Production & Consumption’ promoting and protecting NGO’s of western countries. Due to the extreme pressures from those campaigns, global brands have been under pressure for ensuring ‘Transparency’ of their value chain. Some leading brands like M&S and C&A already has started to publish information of their production and sourcing bases.

When a manufacturing country like Bangladesh, who has suffered for bad media images

20

at post Rana Plaza era, offer discussions and exhibitions on ‘Transparency’, it became a big story not only in Bangladesh but also throughout the world.

Overwhelming participation of denim manufacturing and support service companies and their openness in sharing information Bangladesh is not only transparent to allow access to anybody to its manufacturing units but also transparent in sharing manufacturing and material costs as well.

It is indeed uncommon that the buyers know all the cost components of the sellers for any business. But most of the apparel factories of Bangladesh have been sharing all costs openly to the buyers. And so the sector has no secret! Now the buyers putting orders in Bangladesh knows every details of their production and can control anything they require.

in ‘Transparency’ seminars and exhibitions has proved once again that Bangladesh is one of the most transparent apparel manufacturers in the world.

Bangladesh is not only transparent to allow access to anybody to its manufacturing units but also transparent in sharing manufacturing and

material costs as well. It is indeed uncommon that the buyers know all the cost components of the sellers for any business. But most of the apparel factories of Bangladesh have been sharing all costs openly to the buyers.

And so the sector has no secret!

Now the buyers putting orders in Bangladesh knows every details of their production and can control anything they require.

So, ‘Transparency’ though has opened up all secretes of businesses of Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturers, it has been a great brand to sell Bangladeshi products. With the guarantee of openness now final consumers should feel confident in buying Bangladeshi apparels.

Mostafiz Uddin ,Founder and CEO, Bangladesh Denim Expo said, “Our target is to improve the whole denim and apparel industry to bring excellence to the sector, share knowledge and increase collaboration that would help highlighting the best practices and potential to manufacture more quality products.”

Industry insiders opined that ‘Transparency’ should not be one sided affair. The brands also should be equally transparent.

Global leading brands know that Bangladeshi apparel makers now

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C ove r P l u s

don’t have enough profitability to provide better life to its workers and people around the industries.

Most of the factories are struggling to save each pennies of profit. At this tight profit margin no industry can flourish.

So global brands should be transparent enough and ethical enough in product pricing and they should offer ethical prices for Bangladeshi manufacturers.

Speakers at the seminars held in the exhibition also echoed to this.

For the first time in Bangladesh, the exhibition facilitated 3D shows providing virtual tours to the denim manufacturing factories of Bangladesh.

The exhibition highlighted strong growth in denim sectors of Bangladesh. A buyer visiting the show said, “Bangladesh is gradually setting up with hi-tech for producing high-end products to attract buyers particularly from the European Union and the United States.” Bangladesh denim sector is growing both in value addition and in quantity of production. Mostafiz, CEO of Denim Expo informed, “At least six new denim fabric manufacturing mills will come into operation in Bangladesh in the next two years.”

According to Eurostat data, Bangladesh exported denim products worth $699 million

Figure 2: Pacific Jeans Group organized a special event titled "Denim Innovation Night" on November 8 at ICCB in the city.

to the EU market in the first six months of 2017. According to data released by Otexa, Bangladesh earned $393 million from the US, a 6.6% increase on January and July of this year.

The exhibition was fruitful to the participants as well. “We are getting good response. More buyers have come in this event.

We hope denim sector will do very well in coming years”, said Nur E Yasmin Fatima, CEO, Nice Denim Mills Ltd.

Some foreign companies have already shown their interests to expand their businesses as they believe that Bangladesh is a very important sourcing place for RMG products. They urged the Bangladesh government for taking effective measures to help the emerging denim sector by ensuring infrastructure facilities along with utility services particularly power and gas for industrial areas, said exhibitor and buyers.

For the first time in the show, a full pledged fashion and product innovation show was organized during the exhibition call ‘Denim Innovation Night’. The gala fashion shows presented new developments of one largest denim garment manufacturers in Bangladesh, Pacific Jeans.

In the two days exhibition, more than 65 exhibitors from 12 countries including Bangladesh, Germany, Italy, Japan, China, Singapore, Turkey, Vietnam, India, Pakistan, Spain and Hong Kong participated in the exhibition to showcase their denim pants, fabrics and modern technology.

Figure 1: An exhibitor is showing different denim products to customer.

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21

N ew s & A n a l ys i s

Labor cost rise in China shifts Japanese companies to Bangladesh Desk Report Due to wages rise in China, Japanese manufacturing companies are looking for cheaper production bases elsewhere in Asia. One country where they are coming is Bangladesh as it offers them the lowest labor cost than others.

Bangladesh industry experts hoped, investment in Bangladesh would increase from Japan, which is a very good opportunity for the country’s economy.

“Bangladesh has been traditionally known as Asia’s poorest country,” said Mari Tanaka, an official at Japan External Trade Organization’s Overseas Research Department.

“Labor costs are lower compared to Japan and other East Asian countries while it’s possible to hire a large number of young laborers”, Tanka added.

According to the Japan External Trade Organization, the number of Japanese companies with operations in Bangladesh has become more than tripled since 2008, reaching 253 as of May 2017.That’s still far fewer than the number of China or Thailand, but their presence in Bangladesh is increasing at a much faster pace.

Garment shipments to Japan from Bangladesh began after the adoption of ‘China Plus 2007 2008

2008 2009

2009 2010

20102011

2011 2012

2012 2013

2013 2014

20142015

20152016

20162017

Woven

20.80

52.34

120.26

153.68

239.99

280.17

318.92

372.77

391.43

345.43

Knit

7.23

21.99

53.6

93.63

163.65

198.31

253.35

279.78

383.4

399.4

Total

28.3

74.33

173.32

247.51

403.65

478.48

572.27

662.56

774.47

744.48

Growth

34.19%

165.18%

133.18%

42.80%

63.08%

18.54%

19.60%

14.03%

18.68%

-3.87%

Table 1: Bangladesh’s RMG Export to Japan in Last 10 Years

One’ policy by the Japanese government in 2008 to reduce

According to the Japan Textiles Importers Association, Japan imported 65% of its textile products from China in 2015.

China at one time accounted for nearly 80% of textile imports, but the percentage has been declining gradually due to rising labor costs, among other reasons.

Now imports from countries like Vietnam and Indonesia are rising. Although Bangladesh only accounts for 2.3% of total imports, it averagely grows at an annual pace of about 20-40%.

Cut-Rate Wages Average monthly pay for manufacturin workers hired by Japanese companies Australia New Zealand Hong Kong South Korea Singapore Taiwan China Thailand Malaysia Indonesia Philippines India Pakistan Vietnam Camboda Srilanka Laos Manmar Bangladesh

$111 2,000

4,000

Figure 1: Graph shows labor cost of different countries where Bangladesh’s labor cost is the lowest only $111 per month for Japanese companies. (Source: Japan External Trade Organization)

22

overdependence on China for goods like apparel, electronic gadgets and home appliances.

The ‘China plus One’ policy was supplemented by the relaxation of the Rules of Origin

by Japanese government for least-developed countries, which worked in Bangladesh’s favor. Bangladeshi garment manufacturers have been enjoying zero-duty benefit on apparel exports to Japan even if the raw materials were imported.

Amid rising labor costs, Japan's garment industry is shifting production from China to Bangladesh and other Asian countries, however, to catch the opportunity is not so easy for Bangladeshi businessman,

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

N ew s & A n a l ys i s

though, Japanese businesses have keen interest to invest in Bangladesh as they have got rid of the fear in the wake of terrorist attack on Holey Artisan Bakery in 2016. Mohammed Hatem, Former President of BKMEA, said, “Japanese apparel market is still dominated by China, Bangladesh could avail the China-plus opportunity.”

“Recently labour cost is increasing rapidly, but most of the Chinese factory are technologically developed, so that labors don’t want to work in lower salary and so that, some

of Chinese factory are shifting in Vietnam, Bangladesh, Myanmar and Cambodia”, he added.

According to BGMEA, Bangladesh RMG millers are facing some challenges with Japanese clients like: • Strict quality requirements • Barrier of language • Japanese clients are very much choosy in selecting suppliers brands like to place order via trading companies Experts opined that Japan’s interest to utilize Bangladesh’s cheap labor will increase FDI

(Foreign Direct Investment) in Bangladesh, which will ultimately contribute in country’s employment generation, socioeconomic development etc.

Therefore, Bangladesh should take the opportunity how she can utilize it in a maximum way.

Among the 253 Japanese companies operating in Bangladesh, about 30 are in the clothing or leather industries, 15 or so are in clothing parts and inspection, 10 in logistics, about 15 in the IT services industry and rest are the other category of industries.

Self-assessment is vital for quality assurance in education Staff Correspondent Quality assurance and continues improvement of academic programs are very critical to meet the changing needs of the stakeholders. Self-assessment is the first step towards quality assurance in education. Selfassessment provides the direction towards further improvement and effectiveness of academic programs. University Grants Commission (UGC) of Bangladesh and Higher Education Quality Enhancement Project (HEQEP) have established Institutional Quality Assurance Cell (IQAC) and now it is working in the 64 Private-Public Universities.

Recently the Department of Textile Engineering of Daffodil International University has completed a self-assessment excersie. The educational processes and various aspects of teaching-learning environment are critically examined under this excersie. UGC and the Institutional Quality Assurance Cell (QAU) of Daffodil International University appointed

24

Figure: External Peer Review (EPR) team with Teachers of Textile Engineering Department of Daffodil International University.

a team for the purpose of external peer review of the selfassessment exercise.

According to the terms of reference, the external peer review (EPR) team was required to study the SAR to visit the university and observe the various aspects of quality assurance system at the Dept. of textile engineering. The members of EPR team were Professor Ir. Dr. R. Badlishah Ahmed, International

QA Expert & Chair, EPR Team, Deputy Vice Chancellor, University Sultan Zainal Abidin, Malaysia; Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, Dean ,Faculty of textile Engineering, Butex; Prof.

Dr. S.M Kabir, Professor marketing Department, Rajshahi university.

The EPR team believes that through strong and effective co-ordination and commitment, the Dept. of textile engineering in near future will become a center of excellence in the region.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

C ve E ove n tr To Sto dray y

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2017 October edition ended bringing more international product developments to China Setara Begum Messe Frankfurt successfully wrapped up 2017 Autumn edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics on 13 October 2017 with huge placing of orders as well as relationship building and trend spotting. The strong business results and appreciation from the overseas participants asserted its reputation as the world’s most effective apparel fabrics and accessories trade event in terms of boosting sales and product sourcing. The fair brought the global industries in Shanghai once again as the leading trade fair, where there were 4,538 exhibitors from 32 countries and regions (2016: 4,553, 29 countries and regions) presented their latest collections and innovations across 11 halls. The fair covered multi range of products which catered to most sourcing requirements, 77,883 buyers travelled from 102 countries and regions (2016: 73,927, 90 countries and regions) to Shanghai to source.

One of the key features of this edition of Intertextile in Shanghai was wider and stronger international participation. Special international halls hosted big pavilions from different countries.

This year, The strong line-up of exhibitors, including 10 country and region pavilions – France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, Milano Unica (Italy),

Pakistan, Taiwan and Thailand – as well as 10 Group Pavilions organized by foremost industry leaders like DuPont, Hyosung, INVISTA and Lenzing, presented a full-spectrum of innovative and fashion offerings in 11 halls across 276,000 sqm (gross) exhibition area. The gross area of the fair allocated 6% higher than the last year. Considering the rapid growth in the domestic market as well as other regions, this year the Functional Lab grew 33% in size, Premium Wool Zone grew 18%, whereas an extra accessories hall was added to meet the demand. The exhibitors enjoyed the surge of business potential brought by this large number of high-quality trade buyers.

Participant mix and product mix also further diversified by the inclusion of apparel halls which also attracted big bunch global apparel buyers in the show. Hightech functional products were dominating the show. Number of material research companies and organizations presented their solutions. The trend zone presented the color and fashion trend for coming seasons.

Figure: Moments of Bangladesh seminar organized by Textile Today in Intertextile Shanghai

Many exhibitors see the fair as their business growth engine, and resulted positive outlook for sales after the fair since exhibitors’ successful results at this year’s Intertextile Shanghai shows that it is still the industry’s most effective order-writing and business development trade show because it remains the event where the global industry gathers to make purchasing decisions.

 Innovation Technology in Fashion Industry – by American & Efird LLC

The organizers hosted the VIP delegates from different countries as well as organized some seminars on the demanding topics from the buyers and manufacturers. A high profile delegate’s team from Bangladesh participated this time led and accompanied by the Bangladesh Textile Today.

The panel discussion on “Trends and New Opportunities in Bangladesh Textile Industry” was moderated by Tareq Amin, The Editor and Publisher of Bangladesh Textile Today. The panel consisted of four discussants as Umar Faruk Chowdhury, Global Wool, Leather & Viscose Material Supply Chain Responsible, H&M; Ashfaque Ahmed, Director (Operation), Promoda Textiles Ltd and Director Promoda Apparels Ltd.; Hasan Kajmir Mahmud, Director, Southwest Composite Ltd. and Saiful Islam, Director (Sales and Marketing), Huetech Yarn Ltd.

There were 7 (seven) panel discussions held from 11-12 October in different halls during Intertextile. The topics and speakers are as below  Sustainable Denim: A Holistic Approach – by Archroma Hong Kong Pvt. Ltd.  Linen: Innovation for Autumn & Winter – by European Confederation of Flax & Hemp (CELC)  Trends and New Opportunities in Bangladesh Textile Industry – by Bangladesh Textile Today  Global Organic Textile Trend & Certification – by Beijing ECOCERT Certification Centre Co. Ltd.

 Sustainable Fast Fashion – by Redress  Athleisure – Is it More Than a Buzzword in The Fashion Industry? Understanding The Impact of Athleisure and How to respond – by WSA Magazine and sportstextiles.com

The next Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is the Spring Edition, will be held from 14 – 16 March 2018 in the same event same city.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is co-organised

by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.

Fakir Fashion Ltd. gets best supplier certificate for creativity and responsibility Desk Report Recently Fakir Fashion Ltd, one of the leading apparel exporters, achieved best supplier certification out of 150 Esprit Global Suppliers. Fakir Fashion is one of the top ten International Suppliers for ESPRIT. Esprit is an international fashion brand that represents style and quality since 1968. Founded in San Francisco by Susie and Doug Tompkins, Esprit works on a basis of creativity and responsibility, fused with a sunny Californian attitude.

26

Figure: Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid, Managing Director of Fakir Fashion Limited takes certificate from ESPRIT team.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

C o r p o ra t e To d a y

Huntsman launches nonfluorinated durable water repellents for textile Desk report Huntsman Textile Effectshas introduced the new PHOBOTEX® RSY non-fluorinated durable water repellent (DWR) standard for repellency especially on highperformance synthetic textiles on 15 November 2017 in Singapore, said a media release. This will allow brands and retailers to meet global demand for eco-friendly clothing that requires extreme rain- and stain- protection.

The release pointed out that PHOBOTEX® RSY water repellent is an environmentally friendly, non-fluorinated formulation that customers and global brands can rely on completely to produce sustainable textile products without compromising performance. This new addition complements Huntsman Textile Effects’ comprehensive range of durable water repellents and

reinforces their position as the textile industry’s leading provider of non-fluorinated technology.

Quoting Lee Howarth, Global Marketing Manager for Finishing at Huntsman Textile Effects, the release said, “PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent raises

28

the bar for performance on synthetics, allowing brands to offer high-performance weather protection to outdoor enthusiasts with an assurance of eco-friendly sustainability. Being a trusted partner to the industry, Huntsman Textile Effects continues to lead the transition to non-fluorinated DWR alternatives that meet stringent environment, health and safety standards”.

This provides effective protection in extreme environments like rain, sleet and snow as well as performs well on synthetics and blends. It is also ideal for highperformance outerwear fabrics, offering breathable comfort and durable water repellence.

Fabrics look new for longer and

can be easily spot cleaned which are treated byPHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent.

PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent a non-fluorinated technologies and complies with the latest requirements of bluesign, the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) and the Restricted Substances Lists of the world’s global brands. It isalso suitable for OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 when applied as recommended. Besides, PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent meets the criteria for Textile Effects’ HIGH IQ® Repel performance assurance scheme that ensures fabrics conform to stringent performance requirements too.

Huntsman Textile Effects, one of the global leaders in textile dyes and chemicals, is leading the change and helping to pioneer a sustainable textile industry through our cutting-edge innovation and by collaborating with stakeholders across the entire textile value chain.

Recently, Huntsman unveils their latest innovations for sustainable growth of the textile industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

I n n ova t i o n

Stanford researchers develop double-duty textile to keep warm or cool Desk Report Researchers from Stanford University, California, have developed double-duty, reversible fabric that can keep one’s body both cool and warm, depending which side faces out, said a press release. A paper published November 10 in Science Advances, a team led by Yi Cui, professor of materials science and engineering, showed this innovation. The innovation allows clothes made from this fabric to keep the body at a comfortable

(13%) of all of the energy consumed in the United States is simply dedicated to indoor temperature control. But for every 1 degree Celsius (1.8 degrees Fahrenheit) that a thermostat is turned down, a building can save a whopping ten percent (10%) of its heating energy, and the reverse is true for cooling.

Adjusting temperature controls by just a few degrees has major effects on energy consumption.

Even in other parts of the world, temperature regulation is crucial to survival.

Clothing has been the traditional way of regulating body temperatures outdoors, where artificial temperature Figure: A new textile made from a reversible fabric could warm or regulators cool wearers and keep them comfortable. (Credit Yi Cui Group) do not exist. temperature, irrespective of the But, existing fabrics have obtuse weather outside. properties. A particular fabric can be used for one purpose only.

The material was conceptualized Cotton is a good material to cool as an energy efficient way to the body down, while wool warms regulate body temperature. the body up. These properties Temperature regulating devices cannot be manipulated. consume a lot of electricity, which puts an increased stress on natural resources for energy production.

“Why do you need to cool and heat the whole building? Why don’t you cool and heat individual people?” asked Yi Cui. The paper said, thirteen percent

Bangladesh Textile Today |

According to the release, in 2016, the team announced a first step toward a solution: fabric that allowed the body's heat to pass through, cooling the skin. The team used infrared radiation emitted by the body to develop the bilayer material. The radiation

Volume 10, Issue 11

emitted by the body accounts for 40-60 percent of human heat loss.

The team created a material that either insulated it or lets it escape.

According to the study, the material comprises a micrometrescale sheet of carbon, which emits radiation effectively, coupled with a copper layer that helps trap the heat. Both sides of this bilayer are covered with a breathable polymer nanoporous polyethylene, which is transparent, allows infrared radiation to pass through and has a cooling effect. The thickness of the polymer layer above the copper is kept at only half the thickness as the layer covering the carbon sheet.

The press release said, “One side, a copper coating traps heat between a polyethylene layer and the skin; on the other, a carbon coating releases heat under another layer of polyethylene. Worn with the copper layer facing out, the material traps heat and warms the skin on cool days. With the carbon layer facing out, it releases heat, keeping the wearer cool.”

Studies with a synthetic skin sample showed the material can increase a person’s range of comfortable temperatures over 10 F. Postdoctoral fellow PoChun Hsu said in the release the potential range is much larger — close to 25 F. If all inhabitants wear a temperature regulatory textile, some buildings might never need air conditioning or central heating at all, he added.

“From my perspective, this work really highlights the significant

29

I n n ova t i o n

opportunities in combining thermal engineering concepts with nanophotonic structures for creating novel functionalities,” said Shanhui Fan, a professor of electrical engineering who participated in the work.

like traditional clothes. “Ideally, when we get to the stuff you want to wear on skin, we’ll need to make it into a fiber woven structure,” Yi Cui was quoted as saying in the press release by Stanford University.

The team will have to now make this technology into a fiber-like structure so it can be woven into clothing that look and function

The team has already started testing to make sure the fabric is machine washable with ambitions to create an easily manufactured,

practical textile that people could use to save huge amounts of energy around the world. And they don't stop there -- Cui, Hsu and Fan envision clothing with medical devices and even entertainment printed right into the fabric."I think we are only seeing the beginning of many creative ideas that can come out of such combinations," quoting Fan the press release said.

James Heal launch 10kN Universal Strength Tester at ShanghaiTex exhibition Desk Report Leading global manufacturer of premium quality textile testing instruments and consumables, James Heal, has launched its new innovation the Titan10 Universal Strength Tester at the ShanghaiTex Exhibition.

Titan10 offers laboratories faster, smarter testing with accurate, reliable and reproducible results.

A 10kN capacity for testing means that, along with apparel and non-woven products, users will be able to test much stronger goods such as straps, belts, cords, shoe components, luggage, technical textiles and industrial type materials.

The dual column, crosshead design allows for testing of larger samples across a full range of tests including tension, compression, stretch and recovery, tear, peel, adhesion peels and more. A hand-held controller, automated test set up and a wide range of interchangeable tools makes Titan10 an ideal choice for busy laboratories.

Both Titan10 and Titan5, the 5kN tester from the Titan range, work in partnership with TestWise software. This is a clean, simple user interface with a bank of 500

30

Figure 1: James Heal and its Bangladesh representative OMC executives are seen at James Heal Shanghaitex 2017 stall after the launching of Titan 10 Universal Strength Tester.

pre-loaded standards including ASTM, ISO, JIS, M&S, Next and many more.

Expo Centre, from 27th to 30th November 2017.

Choosing Titan10 gives customers free TechSmart support for the first year, guaranteeing direct access to James Heal’s applications and technical support experts and free annual support upgrades,. This is peace of mind that James Heal’s expertise and support is just a few clicks away – wherever you are in the world.

This diverse range of applications and innovative features will be demonstrated on Stand W5H10 at the Shanghai New International

Visitors to the ShanghaiTex exhibition are invited to the James Heal stand to see for themselves this exciting development in strength testing which will be exhibited alongside a range of other instruments.

They will be welcomed by James Heal’s International Sales Managers and Textile Technologists, as well as local Sales Partner Introtech Ltd. To register your interest in Titan10, please visit http://eepurl. com/c6WEaX

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

S e c t o r A n a l ys i s

Demand for Terry Towel Product's increasing in overseas market Abir Basak Terry Towel industry is playing a special role in Bangladesh's export trade. This sub-sector of textile is moving forward with a great demand in full swing overcoming many obstacles and challenges. Considering the importance of the industry, the government has identified this sector as a ‘high priority industry’.

However for local sales the Value Added Tax (VAT) of terry towel products is highest, about 70 percent.

A terry towel is described as a textile product which is made with loop pile on one or both sides generally covering the entire surface or forming strips, checks, or other patterns (with end hems or fringes and side hems or selvages). It is a piece of absorbent fabric used for drying or wiping a body or a surface.

Mechanism of terry towel Terry fabrics basically belong to the group of pile fabrics. These fabrics can be produced either by weaving or by knitting but

The threads of normal tension warp sheet are for ground and threads of loose tension warp sheet are for pile. Terry towels are woven as 2,3,4,5 or more pick terry weaves. The most common type is 3-pick terry toweling. The sequence of operations during weaving for pile formation in 3-pick terry is given below.

• Insertion of first pick as per the design with loose beating • Allow a predetermined gap near the fell of cloth • Insertion of second pick following the first pick with loose beating • Insertion of third pick with real beating and bring all the three picks to the fell of cloth The 4-pick terry fabrics are heavy in structure and provide better quality in comparison to 3 pick fabrics.

Fiber chosen criteria for manufacturing a towel are:

Figure1: Terry towel

woven terry fabric is the first method and still has major share.

In terry fabric manufacturing, two sheets of warp threads run simultaneously, of which, one is kept under normal tension and other is kept under loose tension.

i) High absorbency ii) High wet strength iii) Ability to dye well iv) Good color fastness v) Wash ability vi) Softness vii) Cost and availability

Figure 2: Mechanism of towel through the wrap.

Considering above facts, it is seen that in manufacturing household terry towel, cotton fiber is the most widely used fiber in the world. Apart from these, fibers like modal, lyocel, rayon, bamboo, flax, microfiber and silk are widely used. In some special cases, fibers like soybean and corn are also used. The production of terry fabrics is a complex process and only possible on specially equipped weaving machines.

Especially for the production of towel, modern loom like Air Jet, Rapier etc. are used by Dobby, Jacquard systems.

It is known that in the 1980s, a factory named Qualitex started making terry towel in Chittagong EPZ. Now there are many industries around the country. There are now more than 150 small and large towel

3 technologies, 1 brand

Rapier

Airjet

Projectile

www.itemagroup.com contact@itemagroup.com

S e c t o r A n a l ys i s

Figure 3: Machine used in Terry Towel production

industries in Bangladesh. Of these, the registered number in Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) is 110. But still, the potentiality of terry towel sector of Bangladesh is due to be capitalized.

Export growth of last few years in Bangladesh In the country, investment in towel production is 1.2 billion US dollars and annual production capacity is 135 million kg. The number of workers in different factories is about 65 thousand.

All towel factories are working together to produce 100% export quality towels.

The top 5 countries for manufacturing and exporting home textile and terry towel products are China, Pakistan, India, Turkey and Bangladesh respectively. Among them, Bangladesh is in 5th place.

According to statistics, China's export was US$ 9449.87 million in 2015-2016, Pakistan's US$ 2822.89 million, India's US$

1435.43 million, Turkey's US$ 1177.35 million, and Bangladesh’s US$ 800.81 million.

Top 10 importer countries of home textile and terry towel products are USA, Germany, United Kingdom, Japan, France, Australia, Spain, Netherlands, Canada, Italy etc. respectively.

In the fiscal year 2015-2016, the amount of import of these countries is approximately 14,178.04 million US dollars.

Among them only United States imported $ 6,359.96 million home textile and terry towel materials. This sector jointly accounts for only US$ 1 billion (approximately) out of total US$ 28.5 billion export earnings now in Bangladesh.

Md. Mujibur Rahman, Secretary of BTTLMEA said, “Exporting terry towel in abroad only 4% cash assistance is received on export price (FOB) and this cash aid is applicable to any one of the parties from yarn production to finish products. For small and medium industries, the

9449.87

2822.89

china

Pakistan

1435.43

1177.35

India

Turkey

800.81 Bangladesh

Figure 4: Home textile and terry towel export of top five countries in 2015-2016

34

government is giving more than 4% of cash assistance but due to various types of conditions, most of our industries can’t be included in this facility. The price of cotton is increasing in the international market. That's why; the price of yarn, our main raw material is also increasing. So the value of exported goods is decreasing, rather than rationally increasing.”

“Gas is an important adherence in the production process of our products. Captive generators, boilers, dryers etc. are directed by gas in our industries. 6% of our production cost is spent on gas.

Presently our industries are facing gas crisis”, he added.

According to renowned consulting company Mckinsey, Bangladesh remains top of the list for sourcing towel markets expected to grow in importance in the next few years. Traders said that there are currently 30 to 35 types of terry towel products being made in the country. Their average GSM is from 250 to 900 & 10 to 40 count yarn such as AC, RS carded, RS combed are used.

America is the biggest market of these products. Besides, products are being exported to all European Union countries, Canada, Australia and Japan.

Among the EU countries are importing significant amount of terry towel from Bangladesh.

As per BTTLMEA, country's 50 percent terry towels are exported

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Sector Analysis

Figure 5: Workers are weaving different types of terry towel.

to EU, 40 percent to the USA and the remaining 10 percent heads for other markets. Besides, Military, Navy and Air force are the domestic bulk buyers and modern elite hotels, spa resorts, hospitals and restaurants purchase a large number of terry towel products for the use of themselves from the local producers.

Mohammad Anwar Hossain, General Manager of Towel Tex Ltd said, “India, China and Pakistan provide the domestic demand of America, world's largest towel importer, about 65 percent. But the market has been expanding for the last few years in Bangladesh. As the quality of the product is good, there are a large number of orders from Malaysia, Saudi Arabia and Japan coming in this country.”

He said, “Quality is our prime focus of everyday business. We have a systematic monitoring and evaluation procedure in place for every single stage of production. Each towel is gone through a rigorous checking process before being packed in poly bags. Currently we are working with MIP, VISTA, Winsam, LAF, Crok etc. valued customers of America, Canada, Europe and Czech Republic. Our in house production capacity is 90 tons/month. The number of Rapier and Pakistani looms is 82, with complete modern dyeing, washing & garment Unit.”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Traders said that there are currently 30 to 35 types of terry towel products being made in the country. Their average GSM is from 250 to 900 & 10 to 40 count yarn such as AC, RS carded, RS combed are used. America is the biggest market of these products. Besides, products are being exported to all European Union countries, Canada, Australia and Japan.

According to Alamgir Hossain, Excecutive (Sales & Marketing) of Noman Terry Towel Mills Ltd. (Noman Group), “Definitely this country is keeping role to drive towel sector globally. Among others,Noman Terry is one of them since 2012. Its specialties include printed towels, yarn dyed, embroidery, jacquard, dobby towel, velour towel and much more. Our present capacity is 70 tons/day equipped with 305 looms. Now we are working with reputed IKEA, H&M, Walmart, Sears Canada, Target, Houei, Venus, Woolworth, Decathlon, Otto-Herm's International etc. buyers. We are making stretchable & zero twist towels first ever in the county and also have plans to manufacture bamboo towels in the future.”

Rubel Akter Sohag, Manager (Operation) of Mark Terry Ltd.

Volume 10, Issue 11

said, “The growth has been prompted by a higher demand for Bangladeshi terry products abroad and the success of the country in exploring new markets.

Moreover, as it is a specialized sector, superior concentration should be given in this regard by government and local investors.

Generally, Bangladesh produces terry towel which are low-end, average-quality towels mostly worth US$ 3-7 per kilogram but in recent time a number of companies are producing high value product which is worth US$ 8-15 per kilogram.”

Difficulties of terry industries: Industry experts feel that if gas supply, lower price of raw materials, lower bank interest rates, incentives, developed transportation systems and competence of sea port are ensured to retain its competitiveness, the country can earn US$ 5 to US$ 6 billion from export of terry towel products within a couple of years. Absence of research and development (R&D) in the sector is a very big issue. Bangladesh has a history of labor problems. Worker’s unrest is pointed out as another drawback.

China, Pakistan and India are main competitors for Bangladesh for exporting of Terry towel. They have their own raw materials (cotton), machinery, color-chemistry, skilled craftsmen. At different

35

S e c t o r A n a l ys i s

levels in the textile sector, from the cotton production to the finished product, the government of Pakistan gives subsidies to their exporters. The government of China is giving about 73 types of subsidies/incentives in their textile sector. The Indian government has recently announced a package of 6,600 crore rupees for their textile sector. They have planned to provide free uninterrupted power supply from nuclear energy to the textile industry. As a result, the implementation of China-Pakistan economic corridor, the Chinese industrial zone Xinjiang is going to join the Arabian Sea through Pakistan. This means that ChinaPakistan export trade is going to be more dynamic.

Md. Mujibur Rahman, Secretary of Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) told, “By the year 2021, Bangladesh government has been working to promote the country to middle-

income. So now, we have to work to get GSP+ facility instead of GSP and have to increase our ability to survive in export trade with competing countries like China, Pakistan and India. In this case, we want the following cooperation from the government for the next 10 years.

1. Providing project loans for 10 years at reduced interest rate 2. To set the income tax rate at 10% and income tax deduction rate at source to 0.25% for home textile and terry towel sector 3. To allow import of duty-free dyes and chemicals for local industries 4. To ensure the availability of raw material in the terry towel sector with the minimum export price and export duty imposed on cotton waste and jhuta waste by continuously discouraging export of these products 5. To provide tax holiday opportunities established tax fair in different districts of the

country 6. To prioritize shipping of terry products 7. To help in gaining new market 8. Provide 10% subsidy on electricity, water and gas bill Bangladesh produces different types of terry towel for export.

The industry has seen a total of Tk. 15 billion investments and more than 100 units established during last three decades.

Besides, to exhibit the towel industry, the participation of every year of Bangladeshi companies in the “Heimtextil Fair” in Germany is quite noticeable.

New entrepreneurs and investors have to come forward. At the sametime, government's cooperation and correct implementation can speed up the industry. If this trend continues, it is assumed that Bangladesh will rule in towel sector in future like denim.

Envoy Group and Envoy Textiles Ltd. achieve Kar Bahadur Award Staff Correspondent

The National Board of Revenue (NBR) honored 84 families, including Mr. Kutubuddin Ahmed’s family, Chairman and founder of Envoy Group and Mr. Abdus Salam Murshedy’s family, Managing Director of Envoy Textiles Ltd., as Kar Bahadur Paribar (tax icon families) for paying noteworthy income tax.

Established in 1984, Envoy Group is a diversified conglomerate with primary focus on ready-made garments and textile manufacturing. Envoy Group has expanded dramatically over the past three decades and built a remarkable distinction as an exporting giant in this challenging part of the world.

Figure: Mr. Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman and founder of Envoy Group, and his family Mrs. Rashida Ahmed, Mr. Tanvir Ahmed, and Ms. Sumayyah Ahmed, were honored with the title ‘Kar Bahadur’ or Tax Icons for paying big amounts of tax with exemplary compliance for a long time.

36

The group represents 40 business enterprises and has an annual turnover of USD $400 million with a workforce of approximately 21,000.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

In Focus

Clothing made from pineapple fiber

Dr N.N.Mahapatra B.Sc( Hons),B.Sc (Tech )(Bom)M.Sc ( Chem ),Ph.D ( Chem ),M.B.A( IMM,Cal) C.Col FSDC ( UK),CText FTI ( Manchester ),Int Trg ( Australia)),Sen Mem ,AATCC (USA) FIC ,FTA , FICS,FIE,FIIChE ,MISTE ( INDIA) President , COLORANT LTD (An ISO 9001:2008 & 14001:2004 Certified Company)

Many health conscious people love to have Pineapple as their favorite dessert. It's because of many health benefits of the delicious fruit. It protects from a simple flu as well as fights off free radicals that cause cancer. It cleans the internal system to keep our body healthy through fibers that help in proper digestion.

That's not all, it's not the only kind of fiber that a pineapple carries. Pineapple leaves are used to obtain Pi単a, a textile fiber that is used to make fabrics. As such, we are able not only to keep our internal system clean but

also to achieve an outer elegant appearance. Pi単a is a pineapple fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple plant and is commonly used in the Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric.

Pi単a's name comes from the Spanish word pi単a which literally means pineapple Pineapple is mainly grown in sub-tropic countries including Philippines, Taiwan, Brazil, Hawaii, India, Indonesia and the West Indies. Pineapple has been produced well amount

in Bangladesh also. And the country has good potential in producing pineapple fiber and corresponding products. However the credit for making textile fibers from pineapple leaves go to the Philippines. Pina weaving is an age old tradition dating back to Hispanic times. Pina clothes were said to have reached Greece and African countries many centuries ago. During 19th century, pina fabric was much in demand, not only in Philippines but worldwide.

However, when the much cheaper cotton fabrics became popular, its production ceased and Pina

Figure 1: Pineapple not only good for health as fruit, its leaf have been used as fiber for producing luxury cloths in the history.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

In Focus

Figure 1: Pineapple not only good for health as fruit, its leaf have been used as fiber for producing luxury cloths in the history.

fabric almost disappeared. Till the mid eighties of 20th century, pina fiber was nearly impossible to find with only a handful of aging, part time weavers working for its survival. In fact, Pina has been revived in the recent past two decades only.

Great efforts were made for the revival of this age old tradition and for re-establishing the pina trade. It started with marketing of pina barong [embroidered traditional garment of Philippines] locally which eventually got popular with the elite. Traditional pina weaving has survived in spite of all odds and production has since begun to flourish. Now once again, pina fiber is globally popular and Pina cloths from the Philippines are being exported to various parts of the world, particularly to North America and Europe.

Kalibo, Aklan is the main and the oldest manufacturer/weaver of Piña cloth in the Philippines which are being exported. History records suggest that Kalibo's Piña cloth was traded during the Pre-Hispanic times and reached as far as Greece and Egypt during

40

its heyday. Kalibo is also known for other native products such as handbags made of buri leaves which is a favorite for Caucasian females visiting the town.

Pineapple silk is considered the queen of Philippine fabrics and is considered the fabric of choice of the Philippine elite. During the 1996 edition of APEC in the Philippines, world leaders donned a Pineapple silk Barong Tagalog from Kalibo during the traditional group photo.

In recent times pineapple fiber has been used to produce high value added nonwoven to be used for producing luxury lustrous products.

Production of pineapple fiber Since piña is from a leaf, the leaf is cut first from the plant. Then the fiber is pulled or split away from the leaf. Most leaf fibers are long and somewhat stiff. Each strand of the Piña fiber is hand scraped and is knotted one by one to form a continuous filament to be hand-woven and then made into a Piña cloth. Researchers have developed some easy tools to

extract fiber from pineapple leaves.

Fiber from Pineapple leaves for long has been used by Philippine handicraft artisans to produce cloth. Pineapple fibre is considered to be more delicate in texture than any other vegetal fibre. A kilo of leaves may provide up to 15-18 pieces of white, creamy and lustrous as silk fibre about 60 cm long and it easily retains dyes.

It is a painstaking process and involves up to 30 people from the beginning to the end of the process. Fibres of the leaf are scrapped by means of a broken plate or coconut shell and a fast scraper can extract fibre from over 500 leaves per day after which the fibres are washed and dried in the open air.

After which they are waxed to remove the entanglements and then the fibres are knotted and bind into yarns for the next process of weaving it in to fabric.

Pineapple fabrics are mainly used for creating Barong Tagalog and other formal wear. It is also used for other products where a

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

In Focus

lightweight, but stiff and sheer fabric is needed.

It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric.

Properties of pineapple fiber The piña fiber is softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or ivory in color. The end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and has an elegant appearance similar to linen. Pineapple fibers are an ivory-white color and naturally glossy. This delicate and dreamy cloth is translucent, soft and fine with a high luster.

Pineapple silk is considered the queen of Philippine fabrics and is considered the fabric of choice of the Philippine elite.

Pine cloth in Philippine’s islands is soft, durable and resistant to moisture. This is also used in making coarse grass cloth and for mats, bags and clothing. The leaves need retting, which is controlled rolling by soaking in water and allowing bacteria to attack the leaves. The fibres are then separated mechanically by scotching ( beating ).The fibers are bundles of many overlapping cellulosic cells and are much , stiffer and longer than cotton.

The cells adhere by means of lignin cements.

As the pineapple leaf fiber fabric or the pina fabric is lightweight but stiff, this sheer fabric can be used in any creative design. These fabrics, apart from environmental friendly, have many other qualities.

• They have beautiful elegant appearance with natural shine, similar to that of linen.

• They are lightweight.

• They blend very efficiently with other fibers.

• They are very soft, even softer than hemp.

• They have better texture than silk.

• They can be washed and don't need to be dry cleaned.

As the making process of piña

Bangladesh Textile Today |

fabric is tedious, time consuming and labor intensive, it becomes quiet expensive. However, when worn, one can feel the luxury of this exotic fabric and then its price becomes immaterial. In fact, a garment of piña fabric is categorized as an heirloom garment.

In a project, pineapple, being a leaf fiber and due to its long length it was used in worsted spinning. Pineapple fiber was brought from South India. It was blended with polyester tops in the ratio of polyester/pineapple 80/20. Then fabric was made for suiting purposes. The feel and look was very good. Pina fiber is often blended with cotton, abaca, and silk to create wonderful light, breezy fabrics. When woven with silk, it’s called piña seda or piñasilk. Piña jusi is blended with jusi (abaca or silk) for strength and sheerness and is less expensive than 100% piña .

Pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) which is rich in cellulose has the potential for polymer reinforcement.

Bleaching of pineapple fiber is done by Hydrogen peroxide at boil. As per requirement pineapple fiber is dyed using ME dyes at 60 degree Celsius or HE dyes at 80 degree Celsius. Where high fastness is required in that case vat dyes are used.

The spinning of pineapple fibers on worsted system. It was carried out as follows.

1. Blender 2. Carding.

3. Combing.

4. Mixing with polyester tops/ wool tops./viscose tops.

5. Recombing.

6. Gilling 7. Roving.

8. Ring frame With this idea the synthetic polyester/viscose spinning mills R&D department should start working on using pineapple fibers

Volume 10, Issue 11

in synthetic/cotton spinning system. It will become a value added item. It will have good export potential.

Uses of pineapple fibers Pineapple fibers, primarily used in hand weaving are divided into two groups- the linuan or fine fibers and bastos or coarse fibers. Red Spanish or native variety of piña is mainly used for hand weaving to make valuable items such as traditional Barong Tagalog, wedding attire for men, and blouses for women , kimonos, panuelos, handkerchiefs, table linen, mats, fans, gowns, and other clothing. The smooth Cayenne or Formosa varieties are primarily used in development of Philippine Tropical Fabrics.

A major use for piña fabric is in the creation of the Barong Tagalog and other formal wear that is common in the Philippines.

It is also used for other table linens, bags, mats and other clothing items, or anytime that a lightweight, but stiff and sheer fabric is needed.

The pina fabric is decorated by a traditional style of hand embroidery called calado. An embroidered piña garment is known as piña calado. These handwoven fabrics are dyed with vegetable dyes obtained from leaves and bark of various trees.

Pina fiber is often blended with cotton, abaca, and silk to make amazing light and breezy fabrics.

When woven with silk, it is known as pina seda or pina-silk. Pina jusi is a blend of abaca or silk for strength and sheerness and is less expensive than 100% pina.

Note: The author is the first person to bleach and dye pineapple fibres using vat dyes in three shades like black, coffee, and navy. Then it was blended with polyester fibre in 80/20 ratio .Safari suit fabric was made at Jayashree Textiles, Rishra, Hooghly.

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Fa s h i o n To d a y

4 LCF students get Kering awards for sustainable fashion Md Masudur Rahman

Four students of London College of Fashion (LCF) have achieved the 2017 Kering Awards for Sustainable Fashion. Kering, a global luxury group develops an ensemble of luxury houses in fashion, leather goods, jewelry and watches as well as developing sports and Lifestyle brands Puma, Volcom and Cobra.

In the event over 350 guests, including sustainability experts, journalists and fashion industry professionals gathered in London for the 4th Kering Talk, where Marco Bizzarri, President & CEO of Gucci, was the guest of honor and keynote speaker.

As part of the 2017 Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion, Gucci and Stella McCartney set 100 London College of Fashion students a sustainability challenge from which ten finalist projects were selected. The 2017 Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion was presented to four outstanding students: Laure Fernandez and Charlie Wilkinson for Gucci; and Dianjen Lin and Jennifer Kusowski for Stella McCartney. This year’s projects showed exceptional ingenuity and a multidisciplinary approach, blending science, technology and design.

Winner of the award for innovation in fashion & sustainability Laure Fernandez is a fashion designer who was trained in the UK and France, specializing in material finishes. She is currently studying MA Fashion Futures at London College of Fashion, UAL.

Figure: Four winners of Kering Awards for sustainable fashion.

the outside is worn, customers are encouraged to update their luggage with specially designed wraps to prolong the lifespan of their luggage.

Winner of the award for innovation in Fashion & Sustainability Dianjen Lin is a designer with 6 years of professional experience across costume/fashion design, photography, art and silver metalwork. Dianjen is currently studying MA Fashion Futures at London College of Fashion, UAL. Her project "Regenerative Sustainability Activism” aims to make sustainability as easy and accessible as putting on an item of clothing. Dianjen has begun researching the development of Post-Carbon material, i.e. materials that absorb CO2. She has merged algae cultures with fibers and her initial results have been promising: one Post-Carbon T-shirt can produce 4% more oxygen than generated by a tree.

She developed a unique method named “Future Artisans” merges science with sustainable materials and creates design patterns as well as explores the future of printing processes. The process uses natural, microbial pigments and applies externalstimulus, such as sound vibrations, to cause the micro-organisms to expand, forming beautiful, unique colored patterns.

Winner of the award for collaboration in Fashion & Sustainability

Winner of the award for collaboration in fashion & sustainability

“Designing Denim with Nature” aims to develop the UK’s first "fiber shed". A fiber shed is a circular system where textiles are designed, sewn, grown, processed, sold, worn and composted locally, in a specific region. This allows for complete traceability into the origins of the textiles, and works towards removing the use of toxic dyes and synthetic finishes.

Charlie Wilkinson is a designer and maker, specializing in leather bags and accessories. She is currently studying BA (Hons) Fashion Bags and Accessories: Product Design & Innovation at Cordwainer’s at London College of Fashion, UAL, and has worked at Dr Martens as an Accessories Design Assistant.

“X Sunday” aims to replace the structural materials within Gucci’s hard luggage, replacing plastic and leather with a mixture of cork and bio-resin. Cork and bio-resin have the added benefit of being lightweight and durable as well as sustainable. The second part of the project addresses the issues around wear and tear of the outer materials of luggage. When the structural integrity of the luggage remains intact but 42

Jennifer is a fashion designer with over seven years of industry experience as a denim specialist. She designed, developed and sourced the first-ever organic denim trouser for baby department. Jennifer is currently studying MA Fashion Futures at London College of Fashion, UAL.

Both these winners will receive a €10,000 grant to continue their research.

References 1. http://www.kering.com/en/press-releases/winners_of_ the_2017_kering_award_for_sustainable_fashion_ 2. https://fashionunited.in/news/fashion/keringannounces-sustainable-winners/2017101215870 3. http://sustainable-fashion.com/blog/jennikusowski-kering-award-finalist/ Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

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B u s i n e s s To d a y

China wants more spaces in Bangladesh for investment BTEC Correspondent “China always supports bi-lateral trade development and promotion between China and Bangladesh.

China wants to invest more in business sector and Chinese businessmen are now coming to invest in Bangladesh as it has potentials.” Chinese Ambassador Ma Mingqiang said this in 'China Experience and Bangladesh Development' ODA training program at hotel Le-meridian in the city organized by China Embassy in Bangladesh.

“We are targeting for more spaces in Bangladesh economic zones and Bangladesh will have more Chinese investment facilities. Bangladesh has big potentials of becoming a manufacturing hub.

Because, you are enjoying a huge inexpensive labor force,” he added.

The Chinese ambassador said, “This year some 840 Bangladeshi officials at various levels went to China to participate in training programs”.

Figure 1: Chinese Ambassador Ma Mingqiang.

Mr. Kazi Shafiqul Islam, Secretary of ERD, Ministry of Finance said, “China is one of the major developed country, Bangladesh and China have 42 years of friendly relationship. China works for skill development.

29 projects have been signed with China”, he added.

He also said, “We hope that our relationship is not

44

China grants duty free access for 4,886 from LDCs.

Bangladesh enjoyes duty free access to China as LDC

Bangladesh also has market advantage in China under Asia Pacific Trade Agreement

Figure 2: Trade advantage in China.

only economical, but also it will be trade development between two countries. Every year we import 4000 products from China. We hope china will contribute us to become middle income country by 2021.”

In the program, 6 presentations have been shown from BEZA, ICT Ministry, Finance Ministry, Commerce Ministry and Health and Welfare Ministry representative of Bangladesh who have received the training of ‘China Experience of Development’. The trainees shared their presentations on promoting the economic and social development in Bangladesh by learning from China experience and enhancing the bilateral cooperation between the two countries in relevant fields.

Investment from China in Bangladesh is lowest among top ten countries, according to the below chart. Bangladesh's economic relations with China have traditionally been dominated by trade. However, more and more synergies are emerging between the two countries resulting in more Chinese investment in Bangladesh. Bangladesh needs huge foreign investment. Globally, China invested about USD128 billion in 2015. Beijing showed huge interest to invest in Bangladesh's port, railway, highway, energy sector

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

and other key infrastructure while President Xi's visited in 2016.

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Now save water Start

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81 CH IN

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IA

97

IN

N PA JA

LA

N

D S

99

ET HE R

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160

RW AY

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235

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245

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Figure 3: Top ten investors in Bangladesh in 2016 (Value in million USD) Source: Bangladesh Bank

Investment opportunities in priority sectors of Bangladesh The trainees said that China wants to invest in some of our prospective areas. Effective measures are required to set up joint venture in textile-leather sector and relocate their labor-intensive industries to Bangladesh for industrial capacity building. The exports of Bangladesh will increase significantly by using modern technology and expertise if investments from china increase in different areas. They will establish fashion design institute in Bangladesh based on Chinese model with a view to boost exports of Ready Made Garment (RMG) items to china.

Bangladesh Export Zone Authority, BEZA is working to establish 100 economic zones in the country.

BEZA has already categorized economic zone, PPP economic zones, private economic zones, government economic zones, special economic zones, G2G economic zones.

Create employment opportunities for 10 million people.

Develop 100 economic zones in the country over the next 15 years.

Establish backward linkage industries in economic zones to meet requirements of local economy.

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Huewash LTW Low temperature soaping agent

Remove unfixed dyes effectively.

Improve fastness of your yarn and fabric

Figure 4: Vision 2021 and objective of BEZA

Mr. Li Guangjun, Economic & Commercial Counselor and Mrs. Liu Yue, Second Secretary of Economic and Commercial Counselors’ Office, Chinese Embassy in Bangladesh were also present at the China Experience and Bangladesh Development Forum.

While Bangladesh has been given duty free access to a large number of products by Beijing, its export to China has not exceeded even one billion dollar in Chinese consumer market. The large and growing trade imbalance between the two countries can be reduced partly if China invests in Bangladesh's industrial sector. However, if china allow quota free facility for all kinds of RMG products, it will reduce trade in balance truly.

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Less water

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For Better Tomorrow

Remediation Update

Alliance factories complete 85 percent of remediation Staff Correspondent The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety have been completed 85% of all required repairs in garments factories under them, in its fourth year of operating in Bangladesh, said its Country Director Jim Moriarty in ‘Alliance Annual Report 2017’ revealing in a press conference on 15 November in the city.

15%

85%

Completed

in Progress

According to the report, 80% of high-priority repairs have been made while 234 Alliance affiliated factories have completed all materials items in their Corrective Action Plans (CAPs). It has suspended 162 non-compliant factories form the Alliance factory list.

It has also established democratically elected worker safety committees, which give workers a voice in monitoring safety issues at 171 factories.

Workers who have received Wage Compensation

6,676

Factories with Democratically-elected Safety Committee

171

The Report also said, more than 1.4 million workers have been trained in basic fore safety and 1.3 million have participated in refresher courses. Nearly 27,000 security guards have been trained in fire safety leadership, while nearly 20,000 have received refresher training.

Alliance country director said, “Our factories are demonstrably safer today than when the alliance began – and the hard work that factory owners have undertaken since 2013 is now paying off, as hundreds of factories are reaching CAP closure. No factories are suspended for failure under Alliance CAPs .

“Our achievement represents a starting line for these factories, for whom maintaining rigorous safety standards must remain an ongoing priority –and we are committed to transitioning our program in a way that paves the way for sustainable progress beyond 2018.”

- Jim Moriarty, Alliance Country Director

Table1: Highlights from Alliance Annual Report of factory and workers safety Total Factories

785

Currently Active Factories

658

Total Workers

1,389,566

Factories with all Material Items(Caps Completed

234

Percent of all Remediation Items Completed

85%

Percent of High-priority items Completed

80%

Factories Suspended

162

Workers provided with initial Basic Fire Safety Training

1,482,301

Workers provided with Refresher Training

1,348,970

Security Guards Provided with initial Fire Safety Training

26,814

Security Guards Provided with Refresher Training

19,746

Factories with Access to Helpline

941

Workers Trained on Helpline Access

1,356,394

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Moriarty also said, ‘We are in conversations now with International Labour Organization, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh government and other stakeholders so that a credible, independent effort to monitor factory safety remains long after the Alliance is gone.

The Alliance has designed a safety training workshop for senior factory managers and partnered with the BUET on a graduate level short course for Bangladesh Engineers.

Alliance for Bangladesh Worker safety is a platform of North American fashion brands and buyers that was formed in 2013 as a legally-binding, five-year commitment to improve safety at Bangladeshi factories, following the Rana Plaza disaster earlier that year. Currently 29 international brand and retailers companies are members of Alliance.

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Non-Compliant RCC factories have to complete remediation

by April 2018 Staff Correspondent Bangladesh government has set the deadline for completing remediation works of the non-compliant readymade garments factories’ inspection under the Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) by April 2018. Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) for the Bangladesh garment industry will focus on managing the remediation process for garment factories under the Government of Bangladesh’s national initiatives.

SAVE ENERGY save money

Recently the government and Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) started holding meetings with the factory owners on “DIFE has already decided not to renew licenses of the noncompliant factories and cancel their license after the expiry of the deadline” -Md Shamsuzzaman Bhuiyan, Inspector General, DIFE

Use ecofriendly energy saving

Biolase NPAC Combined pretreatment & bio-polishing

Figure: A female garment worker sewing a garment in the factory.

evaluation progress and asked for removing all the safety faults in the units by April 2018.

DIFE Inspector General Shamsuzzaman also said, “We are currently monitoring the remediation of 780 factories, which are under the government initiative”.

According to DIFE, Bangladesh government supported by the International Labor Organization (ILO), formed another platform – the National Initiative (NI) – for RMG factories that were not part of the Accord and Alliance to improve their safety standards. A total 1,549 garment factories beyond the Accord and Alliance inspections had been inspected by the National Initiative (NI).

Effective pretreatment of your knit fabric

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DIFE Inspector General Shamsuzzaman also said, “We are currently monitoring the remediation of 780 factories, which are under the government initiative”.

According to DIFE, Bangladesh government supported by the International Labor Organization (ILO), formed another platform – the National Initiative (NI) – for RMG factories that were not part of the Accord and Alliance to improve their safety standards. A total 1,549 garment factories beyond the Accord and Alliance inspections had been inspected by the National Initiative (NI).

Less chemicals

Less impact on environment

For Better Tomorrow

Policy Insights

BGMEA wants to avoid any sort of unrest or interruption for next wage hike

2013

2010

2006

1994

542

930

1662

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) informed that they have asked government to form a minimum wage board to review the existing wages of the Ready Made Garment (RMG) workers. “We wrote a letter urging the labor ministry for the minimum wage board”, said Siddiqur Rahman, President, BGMEA on November 26 at Annual General Meeting of BGMEA in the capital. “Despite adverse situation the sector is currently undergoing, we have made request to take necessary measures to form minimum wage board for re-fixing the minimum wages for garment workers in line with the provision of the labour law and to uphold our image both at home and abroad," he read the letter BGMEA wrote to government on 8th November 2017.

3000

Steer the wage hike to avoid unrest

5300

Staff Correspondent

1985

Figure 2: Monthly minimum wage set in taka from 1985 to 2016.

Source: BGMEA

they repeatedly urged the European Union (EU) to review Bangladesh's eligibility for Generalized System of Preferences (GSP). BGMEA fall under pressure before their last Apparel Summit program on that context.

BGMEA President also said, “This sector has been facing adverse situations since December 2013 when the last minimum wages regulation came into effect. The last wage board had fixed the minimum wages for garment workers at BDT 5,300”, he added. BGMEA wants to avoid any sort of unrest or interruption for next wage hike. The industry suffered for huge protest and vandalism through the incidents around 2013 for increasing wages. This time BGMEA wants to take careful effort as if no interruption occurs. And that’s the association has asked the government to take necessary steps to increase wages from Figure 1: Siddiqur Rahman, President, BGMEA delivered speech at Annual General Meeting their own. in the capital.

Few months back more than 50 RMG units in Ashulia belt remained closed for nearly a week following a

two-week work abstention enforced in support of the demand for wage hike, among others. Following the situation, international rights groups started to give pressure with alleging that workers' rights situation was getting worse in the country's RMG sector and

48

However many industry insiders have feared that another wage hike will cause many apparel manufacturers to be shut downed as they will lose their competitiveness if buyers don’t increase product price.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Policy Insights

Competition against India BGMEA President also said, “India is our main competitor. Recently Indian government has declared to reach in second position after 3 years in RMG export. Indian government gave lots of support

2% 3%

9%

1%

3%

EU USA

19%

63%

Canada Turkey Japan Australia Others

Figure 3: Country wise RMG import from Bangladesh in 2016-17 (Value in %)

to their industry owners”, he added.

He also said, “Some of garments buyers are going to Indian market from Bangladesh due to inefficient port facility and extra lead-time. Our lead time should be decreased, because online market is growing”.

Industry leaders informed that the value of taka against dollar, poor infrastructure and shortage of power and gas are the key challenges for the export oriented RMG sector. Industry owner’s expect that gas, power supply problem will be solved when government will set up LNG terminals.

Looking for new market According to Export Promotion Bureau, In the last FY 2016-17, Bangladesh export garments more 63% in EU, where USA 19%, Canada 3%, Japan 3%, Australia 3%, Turkey 1% and others 9%.

BGMEA president suggested all the factory owners to look for new market and invest more in research and development. “We hope, very soon we are going to grab more from new markets like Russia”, said Siddiqur Rahman.

“We are facing lots of harassment and learning from Accord and Alliance, now all factory owners have implemented in time stipulated by the Accord and Alliance,” said BGMEA President. “We already have started to build BGMEA own building, we hope after two years BGMEA will be able to shift own headquarters there”, he added.

In the meeting, BGMEA Vice -President (Finance) Mohammad Nasir presented annual financial report and activities. According to BGMEA, currently 4482 garments factories are member of BGMEA where 4.4 million employees are working.

Technoloy Today

Water Recovery for Textile Industry Desk Report

“aamra resources” and “Panta Rei – Water Solutions” jointly organized a seminar about “Water Recovery for Textile Industry” on 16th November 2017 at Radisson Blu Water Garden, Dhaka. From Panta Rei Alberto Zanetti Executive VP& R&D, Mirko D’Antoni R&D Manager, Felice Iracà VP Sales and Marketing, Marco Delfino Business Development Manager and Manuel Romero Director Technical Department was presented individual presentation and Michele Principato Sales Manager from FribracastWaterspin was also presences.

From aamra Sohel Ahmed- Chief Operating Officer, Md. Emdad Ullah –Deputy General Manager,

Rafiqul Islam-Senior ManagerService was there and aamra resources team was also attended seminar. aamra resources limited and Panta Rei presented how to recover or reuse industrial waste water. It was also thoroughly discussed how aamra and Panta Rei play vital role to make textile industries greener.

Renowned entrepreneurs, senior management staff and decision makers from Textile and RMG sectors attended the seminar.

Designated guests from Department of Environment-Bangladesh also attended the session.

Panta Rei is an Italian company providing biological ETP solution

with state-of-the-art technologies which are environment friendly for last 10 years worldwide. In Bangladesh textile market, aamra resources limited represents Panta Rei since 2013. aamra & Panta Rei jointly installed 31 successful projects and 21 projects are under construction.

Textile industry in Bangladesh is one of the biggest contributors in GDP but industrial waste is a critical concern and one of the main reasons of environment pollution. Panta Rei and aamra resources limited jointly introduced advanced biological ETP solution and water recovery solution through which industrial waste water can be cleaned and reused.

Epyllion Group promotes health consciousness to achieve SDG goals Desk Report Epyllion Group, one of the leading garments exporters, is working to promote good health and happiness under their CSR activities and recently it observed Diabetes Day 2017 along with peers and stakeholders with the theme of ‘Run for Awareness’ on 18th November in the capital.

Figure: Reazuddin Al Mamun, Managing Director, Epyllion Group was present at the event.

50

According to the CSR division of Epyllion group, currently over 199 million women living with diabetes. Diabetes is the 9th leading cause of death in women globally, causing 2.1 million deaths per year. All women with diabetes require affordable and equitable access to care and education to manage their diabetes and improve their health outcomes.

Epyllion Group started its journey as a house of Readymade Garments (RMG) engaged in manufacturing and exporting of Knit Apparels since 1994 and has been considered today as one of the biggest conglomerates with substantial establishment of its backward linkage of all kinds of knit garments, textile, wet processing & garments accessories.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11



Entrepreneurs need to do market segmentation and analyze their value proposition to increase profitability….

Debasish Saha, Executive Director, Fakir Apparels Ltd.

For several reasons Bangladesh textile and Ready Made Garment (RMG) industry is far away from its target to attain 50 billion USD by 2021, which was set by the Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the government in 2014. A few days ago, Textile Today’s research showed that human capital transformation could be one

52



of the possible way outs to attain the target and overcome the industry’s challenges.

Recently Textile Today team met with Debashish Saha, Executive Director of Fakir Apparels Ltd., one of the leading companies in the garment sector manufacturing with a wide range of products serving to a diverse portfolio of clients. He shared his insights about Human Capital

transformation and challenges of textile industry. He also gave a deep insight on his factory, which have taken exemplary initiatives to transform their people. The company recently received award for enhancing dialogue, working conditions and productivity in their factory through successful participation in the Sustainable Supplier Programme (SSP) from the C&A Foundation and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

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* GOTS approved. * Reach Pre- registered. * Blue Sign system partnering in process. * ZDHC certification in process. * Green Screen bench marking under process.

E xc l u s i ve I n t e r v i ew

Figure 1: State of the art training school in Fakir Apparels Ltd. has been the heart of many developments the company has done over the years.

Deutsche Gesellschaft Fur Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GMBH. Textile Today: Which type of steps Fakir Apparels Ltd. has taken for Human Capital transformation?

Debasish Saha: We are continuing some projects since five years ago even if the project separately is not a business case. We started a training school where unskilled people can admit. They have the chance to get promotion from helper to supervisor position based on their performance.

These programs are certified by Bangladesh Technical Education Board (BTEB) from the funding help of H&M, ILO, Sida and CSR of Fakir Apparels Ltd. with the purpose of upgrading their competency level according to the NTVQF (National Technical & Vocational Qualification Framework) Level-1 as well as meeting industry need (Multi-Skill Operator) and others.

The training school is also offering training programs for Management Trainee (Officer Position) to the Textile Graduates of the company where they can uplift their career up to even CEO level. In order to ensure the leadership continuity in key positions and develop intellectual and knowledge capital for the future, they developed ‘Succession Management Programme’. They are providing internal training on Production

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Staff Development, Quality Management System, Training of Trainers, Essentials of Occupational Safety and Health, Management Trainee, Female Supervisor Development Programme and external training as well.

The best achievement of the training school is that it is contributing in a great deal in Fakir Apparel’s philosophy of

The training school is also offering training programs for Management Trainee (Officer Position) to the Textile Graduates of the company where they can uplift their career up to even CEO level. In order to ensure the leadership continuity in key positions and develop intellectual and knowledge capital for the future, they developed ‘Succession

Debasish Saha: We are enjoying number of indirect benefits which we believe are being supported by our Human Capital development activities. While many of the Bangladeshi factories could not adopt production and process improvement software Fakir has successfully implemented them. The positive mindset of our people steered by our Human Resource Development planning has made the differences. We have installed the software “RunStyle-Pro” which handles many IE functions like establishing SMV, preparation of operation bulletins with line balancing, maintaining operator skill matrix, calculating machine requirements and preparing style change schedules. We also advanced in our information system by employing Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system, Fast React planning system, fabric roll system etc.

Textile Today: From which angle Fakir Apparels is different from others?

Management Programme’.

‘Not hiring leaders, rather making leaders’. We have number of examples in our company who are working long time in the company and have been promoted to real top levels from very entry level positions.

Debasish Saha: I would say our strength in design and development is making huge difference. Besides the training schools of Fakir Apparels, we have our own Fakir Apparels Design Studio (F.A.D.S)

Textile Today: Do you think your company’s focus in Human Capital development has helped in technology adoption?

established in 2015 with inhouse fabric technicians, fashion designers, graphic designers,

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Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

print technicians, sample makers and fit technicians directed by Europe based designers. We make sure that all the details that go into making a garment are looked into meticulously by making monthly trips to the buyers’ headquarters and trim suppliers. We fulfill our commitment to the customers by making right product within the given lead time.

Textile Today: What type of policy has Fakir Apparels taken for sustainable growth?

Debasish Saha: We have taken number of initiatives to make our facilities environmentally sustainable. Major infrastructure renovations in Fakir Apparels have made Fakir Apparels one of the safest places for us to work within. We focus on reduction of the usage of water by installing modern machineries rather than the treatment of wastewater generation. Industries are actually shifting pollution by making sludge as there is no proper management for sludge. That’s why we have a target to reach 23 litre water/kg of fabric for production. We have a plan to move forward by espousing Cold Pad Batch Dyeing by 2020.

Textile Today: Why the price of apparel exported by Bangladesh is decreasing day by day?

Debasish Saha: As we do not know the marketing intelligence of the business, we are competing with ourselves by reducing the price of the products we are making. Entrepreneurs need to do segmentation for enhancing the capability such as the market positioning of our products, value proposition- the desired types of products and brand and product promotion- the ability of communicating our capacity of making desired product.

In order to achieve long-term results, market segmentation is necessary for the entrepreneurs to know their market area.

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We need to make innovative products to get higher price of the products as now we are being paid by the price set by the buyers. Factories also need to arrange trainings for the managerial role to enhance their negotiation skills.

Textile Today: To you what are the major challenges our industry is facing?

Debasish Saha: The challenges we are facing now are money inflation, energy crisis, water crisis, growth reduction. We need to improve the safety issues in factory. We could easily solve the problem of shortage of workers if we decentralize the areas of industries.

34 international brands and retailers participating ‘inter buying office cricket tournament 2017’ Staff Correspondent

Textile Today: What is your comment on the export target of 50 billion dollar from RMG sector by 2021?

Debasish Saha: It seems feasible when the target was set looking at our previous 10-15 years growth in the industries. Now it seems quite difficult. But we could still reach this target by doing product development, bringing diversification in the products and creating market segmentation. As we do not have sufficient gas, electricity, power, manpower, raw-materials; increasing industries are not the best solution. So we just need to know the market place of the business and the desired product types for increasing value.

Textile Today: How do you see the future of Bangladesh textile sector?

Debasish Saha: As we still have time for improvement, we need to improve our communication skills. In order to increase the experts within country, we need more textile based institution with strong curriculum. We have to be sure of making innovative products to reach the target of 50 billion dollars export from RMG sector by 2021.

Figure : State of the art training school in Fakir Apparels Ltd. has been the heart of many developments the company has done over the years.

Inter buying office cricket tournament 2017 organized by buyers’ forum for international retailers and brands has been kicked off. More than 34 international brands, retailers from Li & Fung, H&M, C&A, Inditex, Levis, Synergies Sourcing Bangladesh Ltd, M&S, Target, Walmart, Tom Tailor, Vf Asia, Sears, Asmara, Auchan International, Decathlon, ZXY etc. teams are participating the cricket tournament.

The cricket tournament is ongoing and its final round will be held on January 2018. Every year, buyer’s forum organizes the cricket tournament.

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Volume 10, Issue 11

ď„?More use of enzymes

can help solving key challenges of Bangladesh like energy and water shortage ď„Ž Jens Kolind, Vice President, Technical Industries, Novozymes

Enzymes were discovered in the second half of the nineteenth century, and since then have been extensively used in several industrial processes, including textile industry. The enzymes used in the textile field are amylases, catalase, cellulase and laccase, which are used to removing the starch, degrading excess hydrogen

Bangladesh Textile Today |

peroxide, removing protruding cellulose fiber on fabric surface, bleaching and fading of textiles and degrading lignin. The use of enzymes replacing chemicals in textile processing is rapidly gaining global recognition because of their non-toxic and eco-friendly characteristics with the increasingly important requirements for textile

Volume 10, Issue 11

manufactures to reduce chemical hazards in textile production.

Enzymes are bio-catalyst and living elements accelerate certain reactions. Millions of enzymes are working in human body keeping us fit and healthy. And some animal and bio enzymes are being carefully modified and processed to be applied in specific operations in textiles. Novozymes

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E xc l u s i ve I n t e r v i ew

is one of the global leaders in enzyme manufacturing.

Novozymes is unique in its dedication to enzymes and microbes. For more than 70 years, it has been working with these biological problem solvers. A few days ago, Danish Embassy in Bangladesh rewarded eight Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturing companies with ‘Novozymes CombiPolish Champions Award 2017’ for sustainable production.

The award indicates that the manufacturing companies has been replacing synthetic hazardous chemicals with natural enzymes. Novozymes is the partner with whom the award winning companies were working. The eight companies awarded are: Four H. Dyeing and Printing Mills, Clifton Textiles and Apparels Limited, Base Textiles Limited, Shah Amanat Knitting & Dyeing, NAZ Bangladesh Limited, Texton Lee, SK Hughes and Paulo Knit Composite Mills.

Meanwhile Textile Today talked with Jens Kolind, Vice President of Novozymes (Technical Indsutries), where he shared many things including development of ‘Enzymes’ and its use in textiles, Novozymes technologies and how it is contributing to the textile indsutry etc. Here is the glimpse of the conversation for the readers.

Textile Today: Could you please brief us about Novozymes technologies and how is it contributing to the textile industry?

Jens Kolind: Novozymes is a biotechnology company specialized in enzyme manufacturing for many applications including the textile industry. Our objective is saving water, saving energy,

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saving chemicals in the processing of textiles. A good example of this is CombiPolish process that essentially doing bio-polishing in the dye bath. By doing the process in this way you are saving significant amount of water and also increasing the quality of textiles with the bio polish. We are also doing enzymatic processing in denim.

Whether it is denim processing or abrasion our enzymes are contributing in saving energy and water. I think the last example is our enzymes in the pretreatment of fabrics. We have desizing

I think for bio scouring the key challenge was to get robustness of the solution and doing the same and controlled process for number of shades and fabrics. That’s why other than selling one single enzyme we are trying to sell one package solution.

Because it is important having the right enzyme and also right surfactants, we are providing a right match between them.

And combined system can bring more robustness and we can cover wider range of fabrics and shades.

enzymes for long time. And now the enzymes are being effectively used for scouring once again bringing huge saving of water and energy. Use of enzymes in pre-treatment also replaces hazardous chemicals from the processes.

Textile Today: Enzymes have been used in textiles for long time.

What are the key developments the industry or Novozymes has seen in this recently?

Jens Kolind: I think in the history of enzymes in the textile world Novozymes always tried to be the first mover trying to bring new technology in the market.

And that started in very early days when Novozymes started in 1950s. The first desizing solution, the amylase was pioneered by Novozymes. And since than we are trying to continue the investment to bring new solutions to the market. A recent such addition to our portfolio is bioscouring application.

Textile Today: It is good to see that you are providing enzymatic solutions for bioscouring. For many years enzymes have been used mainly in bio-polishing. When it is used in bio scouring it replaces harsh chemicals.

To you what percentage of the overall chemical scouring could be replaced by enzymes?

Jens Kolind: That’s a very good question. I think you know today bio scouring is used for a very small fraction in all the textiles pre-treatment. So there is big opportunity and it will bring a great impact. Bio scouring is replacing the caustic and other harsh chemicals from the operation and it is putting much less impact on waste water. It is reducing the COD and BOD of effluent. You also affect the quality of fabric; you better achieve right strength of fiber, which is usually harmed in conventional pretreatment process.

So I think potential of bioscouring to take a bigger role is certainly there. But I think it is fair to say that bio –scouring is not easy application. Historically it has been used for very specific

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E xc l u s i ve I n t e r v i ew

fabric types or shade. Recently we have developed solutions that making bio-scouring relevant for broader types of fabric and broader sets of shade. But certainly bio-scouring is still not a solution for all shades and fabric types. We are gradually expanding the range.

Textile Today: What are the key limitations bio-scouring is currently having?

Jens Kolind: So far bio-scouring is being used for dark shades.

Still the very light shades are not possible to do by bio scouring.

But I think in future we can develop solutions for the light shades also. For dark and medium shades it is possible and you can achieve very good result.

Textile Today: What were the key challenges when you were developing bio scouring solutions?

Jens Kolind: I think for bio scouring the key challenge was to get robustness of the solution and doing the same and controlled process for number of shades and fabrics. That’s why other than selling one single enzyme we are trying to sell one package solution. Because it is important having the right enzyme and also right surfactants, we are providing a right match between them. And combined system can bring more robustness and we can cover wider range of fabrics and shades.

Textile Today: Is there any test method you can suggest for assessing pretreatment performance?

Jens Kolind: I think for the bio scouring main challenge is to remove the pectin of the fabric.

We have developed a test kit that you can use next to the machine.

Our tools can check the existence of pectin before taking fabric to next stages in the process.

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Removing all pectin meaning pretreatment was effective.

Pectin is a very good indicator whether the pretreatment has been done or not. Oil, wax and foreign particles are trapped in the fabric by pectin and if you remove the pectin using pectinase and you have surfactants in the bath and so you can have good bio scouring.

Textile Today: How Novozymes contribute in ZDHC initiatives?

Jens Kolind: I think Novozymes as a company besides working on our technology always try to contribute in achieving sustainable textile processing.

We are the part of Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). We also work with retailers to advising them for sustainable processing.

Of course enzyme is part of the solutions and replacing conventional chemicals in many areas. We try to collaborate with other different parties in the value chain like the brands, other chemical manufacturers the machinery manufacturers etc. We try to develop solutions together for ZDHC processes. And when the product is enzyme based it automatically pass the ZDHC requirements as they are natural products.

Textile Today: Is there any possibility having a future where all processing of textiles will be enzyme based?

Jens Kolind: I think it’s a great question, and it is our vision to see how close we can get to this 100% natural textile processing.

One example of this is our ‘Geo-towel’ concept that we launched in ITMA in Milan couple of years back. In this concept towels are being produced using no chemicals, you only use enzymes. The concept is of biological solution together with natural soaps. And the product you achieve is very close to

the quality in terms of softness and absorbency to the towels produced conventionally using chemicals. So this product is very close to the example of 100% naturally processed textiles.

Of course many types of garments having many specific colors you will require to develop natural dyes. But for now we can produce towel that’s only from natural sources.

Textile Today: If you want to really improve sustainability aspects ‘Consumer Behavior’ is very important. How Novozymes can contribute in setting certain sustainable 'consumer behavior?

Jens Kolind: I am actually optimistic about the consumers.

Consumers are getting more aware about the darker side of the textile processing. We have a lot of discussion with retailers about sustainable textile processing by reducing the use of chemical.

I think it’s a journey we have not yet reached there but we are in right direction. Novozymes will try to develop new solutions in connection with retailers to assure that there are alternatives to some of the conventional processes.

Textile Today: Most of the sustainable initiatives are coming as extra cost on the production companies. But day by day price of the garments is going down and cost for the manufacturers are increasing. Do you think that the benefits will reach to the producers? How textile manufacturers can cope with the reality of tight profitability?

Jens Kolind: I think it’s a challenge. Novozymes also tried to understand consumer behavior.

We asked the consumers if the buyers are ready to pay more for sustainable products. For example for a bio polished t-shirt

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Foundation Course on that will remain like new long time with less number of washes and we found that consumers told that they are ready to pay more for such sustainable products.

In fact we have worked with retailers saying that there are solutions to extend life time of the textile which is in fact very sustainable saving the processing cost, amount of cotton used in the value chain. So it has a very big impact.

Enzymes used in the process not only save resources within the process, these garments remain new for longer time and facilitate less washing and maintaining cost as well.

We have consumer study that shows consumers are willing to pay more such products. Another side of this is reducing cost and our solutions are saving water, energy, chemicals at processing providing good business case for textile producer. These solutions come with savings as benefit with additional sustainability benefits for which they don’t require extra cost.

Textile Today: For value addition area you have mentioned ‘denim washing’. Could you explain what are the solutions you have currently for ‘denim washing’?

Jens Kolind: The pretreatment solutions applicable for denim fabric processing also. And we have enzymatic solutions for the denim abrasion, bleaching and finishing. Those enzymatic solutions are in the market for long time but Novozymes always try to push the boundaries. Today we have solutions for denim washing those are working at room temperature, we can reduce energy use in denim processing.

Recently a lot of developments are happening in the machinery application in combination with application of chemicals; among them is the spray technology that the machine manufacturers and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Novozymes are working with.

We can do enzymatic treatment in low temperature using no or very little water bringing very significant cost saving. You can also remove pumice stones from the process.

In this area significant developments are going on with machine manufacturers and the enzyme manufacturers. The process is economically feasible but you need to investment in machinery.

Textile Today: How do you see your business position in Bangladesh?

Jens Kolind: If you look at Bangladesh, we see the country has become very strong in exports of textiles in very short period. I think today we are in front of a question, can we make the textile business in Bangladesh sustainable for the long term. Or this will move for new destinations like the China production is moving out now.

For Sustainable production energy and water are the main challenges for Bangladesh. If those problems could be solved, Bangladesh could have a very strong position in long term.

Textile Today: As a Danish company how do you see Bangladesh’s contribution in Denmark or in general in European fast fashion industry?

Jens Kolind: Bangladesh is very critical for European retailers and it plays a very important role in that value chain. I think for Danish company if you work in textiles you also have to work in Bangladesh.

Thanks to the Danish embassy that for long time is building relationship with Bangladeshi companies to promote Danish green and sustainable technologies. They are helping establishing business connections for Danish companies.

Volume 10, Issue 11

Factory Skills Development in

Merchandising Dates : 31st December, 2017 7th, 14th & 21st January, 2018 (4 days, 16 hours, 8 classes) Time :

5.00 PM – 9.00 PM Course Content: Communication for Merchandisers Pricing and costing Sourcing Commercial and logistics Follow up MS word and Excel Factory opening Quality & Inspection

Mentor’s Profile Ashfaque Ahmed Director Operation Promoda Textiles Ltd. Mir Shahed Chowdhury Country Manager, Huaren Linen Group Mohammad Mezbah Uddin Executive Director, T&M SOURCING LTD. Md. Mahbubur Rahman (Sojib) Sr. Merchandiser, Li & Fund Ltd.

Course Fee: BDT 4,900/-

(Four Thousand Nine Hundred Taka Only) * 10% discount for Textile Today Subscriber. ** 5 or more participants from one organization will get special discount.

Please book your seat here : www.training.textiletoday.com.bd

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Factory Tales

Uses of laser technology producing 'greener' denims Abir Basak The demand of denim clothes in the world is increasing day by day. Especially for the young generation, this denim or jeans use is quite noticeable. But instead of solid color denim, the world's young generation is heading towards washed, designed, faded, soft, printed fashionable denim. Considering this demand of consumers, numerous denim washing (finishing) industries have been built. Washing industry requires lots of water and chemicals for garment treatment. There are different types of effects such as tagging, grinding, destroy through PP spray, bleach, acid, stone, enzyme or hand sands.

Since the buyer is quite aware of global warming and ecological hazards, new water-saving laser technology is being used

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Figure 1: Various laser printed denim jeans.

worldwide in washing. In this situation, Bangladesh is not behind from the touch of this technology. For the last several years, the washing factories of Bangladesh are making green denim products.

Today’s world is facing unclean environment and limited drinking water problem. In denim finishing (washing) industry, drinking

quality water is used extensively but scientists want to reduce it up to minimum 70% in the industry in future. As a result, specialists for denim washing plants discovered green concept technology. The first demonstration of laser took place in Levi's research laboratory in California with American government support in 1960.

Then lot of companies jointly had

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Factory Tales developed it and is developing now. The CO2 laser, commonly, used in industry today for the processing of textiles.

Technical directions of green concept in denim industry To make fading of color, laser is applied in denim or jeans garments instead of Potassium Permanganate (PP) spray. This ray is used to enhance any type of design on denim cloth according to demand. Besides, ozone formula is used instead of chemical bleaching for water reduction.

Basically, 3 technical processes are being used in green concept.

1. Laser blasting for dry process 2. Ozone treatment for dry and wet process 3. E-flow for washing 1. Laser blasting for dry process A Laser blasting or engraving system generally contains a system for delivering the beam, the work bed on which the materials to be processed are placed, fume extraction systems and a housing which encloses the system.

Laser is an energy source whose intensity and power can be precisely controlled. It is produced by combination of CO2 +DC current. The laser is applied on the fabric according to the require intensity. There are three parts in laser m/c- computer part, siler part (chemical section) & laser part. The work bed may be of honeycomb structure or metal slats or metal rods (also containing tiny holes).

the laser ray applied on the focused design portion.

This laser burns the surface of the fabric. The fume extraction takes place from below the work piece and the spaces or holes enable the gases to circulate and for processing debris to be sucked away from the work area. Whisker, hand sand, grinding, fading, cut hole, image printing etc. can be done by laser blasting process.

Special requirement for laser Fabric has to be minimum 98% Cotton. (Polyester fabric is very difficult to use with laser). Indigo fabric is very good for laser.

2. Ozone fading technology Ozone air (natural gas) typically acts as a mild bleaching agent as well as a sterilizing agent. It will change color blue to white. In this technique of denim washing, the machine takes air from the atmosphere, filters it and separates it into its essential components. Oxygen (O2) is thus purified and enriched and the O2 molecule is transformed into an O3 molecule with high voltage, generating ozone gas. The ozone obtained is injected into the

Firstly the design is made up in computer by Adobe Photoshop and then this design is transferred to the laser machine placing the garments on the cutting bed. After according to the requirement intensity,

Figure 2: Laser printing design in the computer.

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Figure 3: PP spray unit.

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Factory Tales tumbler that washes the jeans. It naturally ages the denim, which whitens as if sun bleached.

At the end of the bleaching cycle, the ozone is sucked from the drum and re-mixed with atmospheric components to become oxygen before being released into the air. Laser manufacturer company Jeanologia emphasizes that this type of washing is “a natural and non-polluting treatment.” Dry and wet techniques are included with Ozone process.

Summary of savings on energy and water Conventional Water usage (gallons)

700

Energy usage (kcal)

73,421

Ozone

Savings % 50%

350 28,632

61%

starts using this new technology, the equivalent of 2 years of human consumption of water in Paris and 2 years consumption of electricity in Nepal could be saved per year, as well as 720,000 tons of chemicals products.

Md. Nurul Amin, Marketing Director of Hams Washing & Dyeing Ltd. said, “Buyers and consumers, especially from Europe and America are concerned about the environment-friendly and water efficient aspects of the laser technology. Not only laser but also ozone is the fastest growing and accepted technique in the denim market as this technology has made denims go green. The technology is gaining popularity in the country’s RMG sector day by day.”

Advantages of laser

Ozone reacts with indigo fabrics only. In wet process, water percentage has to keep correctly.

It consumes less water, energy and time, no hazardous, environment friendly and requires no chemical. Any complex design at any place can be created. Accuracy, good quality & production are high. Less manpower required.

3. E-flow

Present status of denim market in Bangladesh

E-flow takes the air from the atmosphere and transforms it into nano-bubbles. In this process, 70% water and 50% chemicals can be reduced. Recently Jeanologia has developed it & their marketing slogan is “water is over, air is the future”.

Nowadays, jeans are popular to everyone young to old, cowboy to rockstar, supermodels in every

Special requirement for ozone

Spain based laser manufacturing renowned company Jeanologia recently has launched a laser machine that can produce about 100 or 200 of jeans per hour whereas manual scraping produces only 10 units per hour, sandblasting 30 and spray 60. This will help garments to save 62% of power, 67% of water (liters), 85% of chemical as well as 55% of production time.

Every year about six billions units of jeans are produced where 70 liters of water, 1kw/h & 150gms of chemicals are used for per jeans that means in total 420 million m3 of water, 6 billion kw/h and 900000 tons of chemicals. If the owner of textile industry

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Figure 4: Laser is being used to produce greener Denim.

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Factory Tales sectors of people. As a result, the latest data of Dhaka Int'l Denim Shows, around 30 million yards of denim is produced per month by 26 factories in Bangladesh. In terms of denim sales, US and UK are two major markets of the country.

The Bangladesh Export Promotion Bureau estimates the country exported finished denim products worth USD 430 million to the US and Euro 1.8 billion worth of products to the European Union in 2015.

Bangladesh is now the world’s first denim exporter to Europe & third largest to US market after China and India. In 2015, Bangladesh held 22.88% market share in the EU and 11.35% in the US denim markets.

The global denim industry is estimated to be worth USD 64.1 billion by 2020. Currently, about 1.8 billion pairs of denim trousers worth USD 51 billion are sold annually worldwide.

More than 5 new factories will be added in the coming year. The producers of Bangladesh have set a target to export USD 7 billion of denim by 2021 while the country is exporting USD 2 billion now.

Ananta Group to set up 6 factories in Mirsarai producing fabric and yarn Staff Correspondent One of the leading apparel exporters Ananta Group have signed a land lease agreement with BEZA for establishing six factories in Mirsarai Economic Zone (MEZ) on 7th November 2017 in Dhaka. Ananta Group has got 250 acres land lease for 50 years agreement.

Ananta will invest about BDT 3500 Crore and expected to generate employment for 25000 people.

Mahabubur Islam, Technical Manager of S. F. Washing Ltd. said, “There are approximately 200-400 small and large denim washing plants in Bangladesh.

It requires less number of workers, chemicals and water. In future, the use of this technology in Bangladesh will increase further.”

Saiful Belu, Senior Production Officer of Ananta Casual Wear Laundry Ltd. (Ananta Group) said, “Modern laser rays are required for printing, cutting or engraving any type of design at denim garments which can’t be done accurately by conventional method”.

Laser demand in the world

Figure: Sharif Zahir, Managing Director of Ananta Group.

Bangladesh exports washed blue denim trousers, denim skirts, jackets, suit type coats, playsuits, sunsuits etc. to the foreign markets. According to the JACK & JONES low impact denim statement, “They saved 25 million liters of water around the world in 2012”. Moreover, 'One Glass, One Garment' finishing treatment concept of Spanish sustainable technology firm Jeanologia is also getting popularity.

According to the agreement, Ananta group will go to production within two years. Mirsarai Economic Zone (MEZ) will be the industrial capital of Bangladesh and will play a pivotal role in fulfilling the country’s investment prospects by establishing ‘One-Stop Services’ for various business enterprises to attract local and foreign investors, according to BEZA.

According to Jeanologia, today, around 25% of global jeans production uses laser technology and is set to reach 50% in the next two years. Moreover, currently more than 180 laser machines are being used in Bangladesh's factories. Washing experts and marketers think that the number will cross 500 in the next two years.

Laser technology is another name for sustainable finishing in the country's washing sector. It will completely change the future of denim sector.

The country's leading washing expert expects the domestic denim sector will go one-step further in future with this environmentally advanced technology.

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“Ananta group has got land lease at low cost. After five years, the condition of MirSarai Economic Zone (MEZ) will be totally uplifted. I think Ananta group has taken a very good decision”, said Paban Chowdhury, Executive Chairman, BEZA. “We make high value suite, sportswear and sweater.

We import fabric, yarn from china to make these products. Now we want to produce fabric and yarn at Mirsarai Economic Zone”, said Sharif Zahir, Managing Director, Ananta Group. “We are expecting that this project will start production by 2020”, he added.

Ananta is a group of companies established in Bangladesh in 1992, carrying on the business of manufacturing and exporting garments, leather products to western markets.

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Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

Greater Manchester lost its 45 percent historic mills since 1980s Desk Repot England’s textile mills are an important part of the country’s industrial legacy and once those were the workstation of the world as well as the original Northern Powerhouse. They helped make Greater Manchester in the north of England and have a profound impact on the physical and cultural landscape.

A new report by the University of Salford, funded by Historic England, published on 19 November reveals that Greater Manchester alone has lost almost half (45%) of its mills since the 1980s, though most of the people are against this demolition. Salford is the borough which has lost the most, with 66% lost over the last 30 years. Historic England and YouGov operate a survey where they found that 90% of adults in England believe that historic mills are an important part of the country’s heritage, story and character and 85% do not want to see historic mills demolished and replaced.

“Mills have so much to offer in terms of space, character and identity. By shining a light on successful regeneration projects, we hope to inspire others to recognise the potential of our former industrial buildings and start a conversation about their future.”

There is calculated to be 1,996,597 square metres of vacant floor space in textile mills across Greater Manchester and Lancashire – equivalent to 25,000 new homes, according to the report. Historic England believes that mills can and should accommodate the North West’s growth needs. Mill buildings are also distinctive, character-filled places which offer a connection between past and future generations.

Andy Burnham, Greater Manchester Mayor, said, “It’s a real shame that half of Greater Manchester’s historic mills have been lost. These buildings are an important part of our industrial legacy – the original Northern Powerhouse. But equally they are an important part of our future, whether that’s creating new jobs for local people by investing in the industries of the future, providing much-needed affordable housing, or transforming these unique spaces into cultural destinations. I fully support Historic England’s plea to ensure our remaining mills have a key place in the developing fabric of our region.”

66% textile mills have been lost over the last 30 years Last 25 years there has been a loss of 45% of historic textile mills Condition of surviving 540 mills is variable 20% considered to be at high risk of complete loss 28% vulnerable to change or loss

Figure 1: Updated report of the historic mill’s condition in Greater Manchester.

The study, commissioned by Historic England, explores viable new uses for old mills across the North West. Catherine Dewar, Historic England’s Planning Director in the North West, said, “With their ability to accommodate wonderful homes, workplaces and cultural spaces, our historic mill buildings deserve a future and should not be destroyed.”

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Figure 2: Titanic Mill, Linthwaite, before it was converted into luxury flats and a spa. (Credit: Trinity Mirror)

Norman Redhead, Director of the Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service, said,

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Volume 10, Issue 11

Factory Tales “The historic textile mill is the iconic symbol of the region’s rich industrial heritage. It epitomises the successful introduction of the factory-based system for the production of textile goods, which from the late 18th century transformed the Greater Manchester area into one of the world’s leading manufacturing centres.”

John McGoldrick, curator of Armley Mills Industrial Museum near Leeds, said there is "no catch-all answer" to preserving mill buildings. "A modern use for the mill depends on the circumstances. Some have massive historical significance but you must take each on its merits.

"Armley Mills is a perfect spot to tell the historical story of Leeds' textile and many other trades but Holmes Mill in Clitheroe, Lancashire has been redeveloped differently as a shopping and food outlet. It's just another way to expose visitors to industrial history.

Mizanur Rahman Khan elected BAPS President Desk Report BAPS, a government approved registered umbrella organization to promote brand “Made in Bangladesh”, is working to enhance the capacity of mid-level management of the country’s RMG sector. Recently Bangladesh Apparel Professional Society (BAPS) organized Annual General Meeting (AGM) 2017 on November 17, 2017 at hotel Orchard Suits in the city where more than 100 members were present.

Abdul Matlub Ahmad elected IBCCI President Desk Report Abdul Matlub Ahmad, Chairman of Nitol-Niloy Group, has been elected new president of India-Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce and Industry (IBCCI), according to IBCCI statement.

IBCCI have got new office bearers for the tenure of 2017-19 where Mr. Shoeb Chowdhury, CEO,

We would like to protect as many buildings as we can but we are also in the real world," he said.

Historic England is an executive non-departmental public body of the British Government sponsored by the Department for Culture, Media and Sport. In 2016 Historic England commissioned the University of Salford to review the survival of mills in Greater Manchester to update a previous survey of the late 1980s. According to the survey result, in the last 25 years there has been a loss of 45% of historic textile mills. The condition of the surviving 540 mills is variable, with 20% considered to be at high risk of complete loss and a further 28% vulnerable to change or loss. However, just over half of surviving mills are in good order and make a positive contribution to the economy. 90 of the most significant mills have been given statutory protection as listed buildings.

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Figure: Executives and General Members were present at the BAPS Annual General Meeting.

Figure: Abdul Matlub Ahmad, Chairman of Nitol Motors Ltd.

In the AGM, BAPS President Major Md. Mizanur Rahman Khan (Retd) welcomed the members and the distinguished guests and gave a presentation on BAPS activities.

BAPS President announced new Executive Committee and advisors name with the mandate from general members approved where Major Md. Mizanur Rahman Khan (Retd) elected as a president and Gazi Md. Sallah Uddin Himel elected as a General Secretary. The new committee expects that this organization will contribute in capacity building of RMG sector and assist Bangladesh to become a middleincome country by 2021.

HSTC Ltd and Sanjay Kailash Munshi, Country Manager, Asian Consumer Care (Pvt) Ltd have been elected as Vice-Presidents.

Matlub Ahmad was the former President of Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industries (FBCCI). He is the founder President of India-Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industries, Bangladesh Automobiles Assemblers' Association, Former President of Bangladesh-Malaysia Chambers of Commerce and Industries and President of Bangladesh Cement Manufacturer's Association.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

Eastern Fabric’s legacy of producing high quality household and decorative products Md Imranul Islam & Obydur Rahman Though Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world, it could not flourish the traditional woven sector where a lot of revenues can be earned meeting household demand.

Nowadays, this sector is bagging lots of technical problems and chronological technology up gradation failure due to lack of woven experts and proper coordination of government and concerned organizations. In order to keep growing with these traditional industries and resolve their actual problems, policy makers must take strong steps to help boosting up their businesses.

Recently Textile Today team has visited Eastern Fabrics Industries Limited at Kumarkhali, Kushtia, which is very famous in all over the country for its attractive and fashionable bed sheet and bed cover. It was established in 1972

by Golam Mostofa after liberation war and succeeded wining the heart of the customers providing high quality household and decorative products.

He started his business with only four looms and he was the first man who started the production of bed sheet, bed cover and velvet Jayanamaja in the country. Now, Managing Director of Eastern Fabrics Industries Limited, Golam Sarowar has extended their business successfully banking on public demand and high quality products. Sister concerns of Eastern Fabrics Industries are Eastern Fabrics Limited,

72

Figure1: Different products of Eastern Fabric Limited.

Taj Textile Limited and Sarowar Velvet Limited.

On the perspective of demand and supply with the pace of contemporary fashion, the company is trying to modernize their industries in coordination with satisfactory product quality.

Accounts Officer of Eastern Fabrics Limited, Omol Kumar Biswas said, “We have a big plan to modernize our industries with recent power looms to compete with new market demand and consumers perception. But, it is a matter of fear that this is very tough for us to maintain quality of products with desired design due to lack of technical collaboration.”

On the perspective of demand and supply with the pace of contemporary fashion, the company is trying to modernize their industries in coordination with satisfactory product quality.

Accounts Officer of Eastern

Fabrics Limited, Omol Kumar Biswas said, “We have a big plan to modernize our industries with recent power looms to compete with new market demand and consumers perception. But, it is a matter of fear that this is very tough for us to maintain quality of products with desired design due to lack of technical collaboration.”

The looms of this industry are made by Japan and Germany containing Dobby or Jacquard Shedding Mechanism. These are conventional power looms.

They also have sectional warping machine and different packages of winding machine, which are made by china. In addition, Dying section bearing hand dying facilities is used for special purposes of yarn dying.

To meet the consumer demand every year new weaving industries are appearing with their new diversified products fashionably towards customers.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

2000 1500 1000 500

Be d

sh ee to

r. ...

Te rry To we l To we l Ja yn am aja So fa Co ve Ve r lve tC ar pe t Do or Ma t

0

Figure 2: Product name vs production capacity (pieces) of Eastern Fabrics Limited per day.

Products from export oriented industries are being flooded in to local market. Export oriented industries usually enjoy number of benefits. These activities actually pave the way of business eradication of traditional textile sector in Bangladesh.

The looms of this industry are made by Japan and Germany containing Dobby or Jacquard Shedding Mechanism. These are conventional power looms.

They also have sectional warping machine and different packages of winding machine, which are made by china. In addition, Dying section bearing hand dying facilities is used for special purposes of yarn dying.

we produce in our industries and sell these products at lower price than us. As a result, this creates mistrust among customers about our products, which deduct our profit margin of company. But, at the same time, it is good for us that modern industries are failing to deliver same design and quality due to technical inconvenience as we provide towards our customers that help us to create trust towards our customer.”

Eastern Fabrics Industries Limited still does not compromise the quality of products. This Company provides high quality products towards customers through lots of authorized selling center situated at different parts of the country. Omol Kumar said, “We are attaining higher customer satisfaction by providing constant and high quality products towards our customer. Due to constant rate of product price, different fashionable designs and product replacement service paves the way of customer attraction and fulfillment of consumer demand.”

He also added that product diversification would be very easy if new technology could be set up or upgraded in the existing looms. He told that it was impossible due to lack of woven experts and skill manpower; if government and textile policy makers help the scenario would change within short time.

To meet the consumer demand every year new weaving industries are appearing with their new

Despite having number of problems, Eastern Fabric has achieved national and international prize in 1986 and 2000 at International Trade Fair, Dhaka in

Figure 3: Production technology of Eastern Fabric Limited.

Figure 4: Production technology of Eastern Fabric Limited.

diversified products fashionably towards customers.

Products from export oriented industries are being flooded in to local market. Export oriented industries usually enjoy number of benefits. These activities actually pave the way of business eradication of traditional textile sector in Bangladesh.

household weaving sector. On the context of national heritage and social values, the government should come forward to traditional textile sectors for their continuous development. Many potential traditional industries like Eastern Fabrics Industries are struggling to survive in different parts of the country.

It is time to find out these potential industries and providing technical and other support with product promotion facilities to save the valuable sector from abolishment.

According to the supervisor of Eastern Fabrics Limited, Md Robiul Islam stated, “Modern weaving industries wearing rapier, air jet and water jet weaving facilities produce same quality products as

74

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Professional excellence is just one step forward.

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Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

Zaber & Zubair fabric week presents innovative garments and fabrics for global buyers Staff Correspondent One of the major Bangladeshi garments exporter Zaber & Zubair fabrics ltd, a sister concern of Noman Group, has organized Zaber & Zubair (Z&Z) fabric week for the first time in the country’s textile history. The seven days mill week held from 29 October to 4 November was displaying fabrics and garment products for global buyers on the company's corporate office premises at Gulshan 2 in Dhaka.

Generally global brands organize mill week to select seasonal products from different suppliers.

But with this unique effort Z&Z has taken them further forward in the process of marketing and branding them.

“We are proudly announcing that this is the first time ever in the textile history of Bangladesh. It is a remarkable change for our textile sector,” said, Mohammad Abdullah Zaber, Deputy Managing Director, Zaber & Zubair Fabric Bangladesh.

Mohammad Abdullah Zaber also said, “Every year in two sessions, spring/summer and autumn/ winter, our experts from SriLanka, Italy, India, Bangladesh

76

Figure 1: Mohammad Abdullah Zaber, Deputy Managing Director, Zaber&Zubair Fabric Bangladesh.

work for making new collections with their innovative designs and product development.”

“Bangladesh is always good for basic item, but we want to bring revolutionary changes in basic items. Our fabric is more innovative, so some price challenges are there in basic items. As a large manufacturer, we are doing much positive

changes in towel, fabrics, spinning sector; this is our message to the buyers we want to convey”, said Mr. Zaber.

Abdullah Zaber said, “Bangladesh currently supplies around 2,700 mmcfd gas from various gas fields. When the govternment import LNG 1000 MMCFD every year, then the gas price will be double. Our industry needs 3500

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Developing People’s Full Potential Customized Customer Training Rieter trains spinning mill employees, from mill managers to operators, across the entire spinning process. By sharing its competences through http://q-r.to/balOit

customized training, Rieter contributes to an improved level of people’s skills and the efficient and successful operation of spinning mills.

www.rieter.com

The Comfort of Competence

Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

mmcfd gas. Noman Group’s Tongi units alone faced loss of Tk. 20 crore due to gas crisis.”

“Z&Z fabric week is a very big opportunity for Bangladesh to attract the customer that the real strength of woven fabric in Bangladesh” said, Sajedur Rahman Talukder, Executive Director of Z&Z Fabrics Bangladesh. “In this event, buyers will be able to see our strength, capacity, change, quality which will help them to take decision”, he added.

Z&Z fabric capacity is 10 million meter per month. More than 200 factories and brands are their customers. “We are capable to acquire for innovative product.

Bangladesh is producing more than 90 percent of its knit fabric demand locally. Whereas, more than 60% woven fabric we import every year from abroad for which a huge foreign currency goes out of country. Factories like Z&Z are playing very important role by supplying woven fabric to Bangladesh garment industries helping them reducing lead time and increasing quality for global brands”, said Mr. Talukder.

Abdul Hakim, General Manager, Zaber&Zubair Fabrics Bangladesh said, “Z&Z is the pioneer in the world market. Z&Z works for product development to customer demand, color, and trend. We

Figure 2: A team from globally renowned trading company Li &Fung examining Z&Z products.

“Manufacturing cost is increasing.

Power, gas price hike, inefficient ports are the present challenges in RMG industry” - Mohammad Abdullah Zaber, Deputy Manging Director of Zaber&Zubair Fabric Bangladesh

participate famous mill week at leading positions to showcase our product”, he added Abdul Hakim also said, “Z&Z regularly does supply chain

management, motion study, value chain analysis and producing sustainable products in a sustainable way. We are making yarn and fabric from recycling jute and doing rainwater harvesting to reduce water consumption.”

“Trend is changing day by day.

Generally Bangladeshi factories don’t work for trend. But Z&Z works for trend and innovation to run with the global. Now Z&Z holds a rich and variety of collections of fabrics for every global season. Our main challenge is price. I think Bangladesh industry need to work promotion and branding for product development to increase the price of Bangladesh products”, said Syed Sadat Rajin, Manager (sales &marketing), Z&Z fabrics Bangladesh.

Z&Z achieved the highest exporter trophy several times from the Bangladesh Government. All leading global brands like H&M, M&S, C&A, JC PENNY, KOHLS are the regular fabric buyer of Zaber and Zubair Fabrics Bangladesh.

Figure 3: Sajedur Rahman Talukder, Executive Director, Z&Z Fabrics Bangladesh.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

S p i n n i n g To d a y

Chinese strength in spinning and other textile machinery manufacturing presented in Dhaka Staff Correspondent One of the leading Chinese Textile Machinery Companies, JINGWEI presented automation and digitization of spinning technology on November 4, 2017 at Radisson hotel in Dhaka to support the spinning industry to move forward. JINGWEI Textile Machinery Company and Pacific Associates Ltd jointly organized the seminar “JINGWEI’S Intelligent Spinning Technology”. The seminar attracted phenomenal crowd having more than 100 spinning professionals.

Mr. Wang Zhangchao, General Manager, China Texmatech Co., Ltd, gave a presentation and explained all the exclusive features of JINGWEI spinning technology. JINGWEI Textile Machinery Co. Ltd is a listed subsidiary of China Hi-Tech Group Corporation (CHTC) which specialized in textile machinery with sixty years of entrepreneurship full of innovation and development. The company has a total asset of RMB 28,066 billion and asset liability ratio of 50.99% with annual revenue of RMB 10,395 billion and a total profit of RMB 2.756 billion by the end of 2015. In 2016, market share of blow room and cards in seventy percent in China.

Figure 1: JINGWEI Textile Machinery Co. Ltd team and Pacific Associates Ltd team pose after the program.

Xiaohu Wang, Vice President, China Texmatech Co., Ltd (CTMTC) said in his welcome speech. “CTMTC provides machinery solutions for cotton processing, spinning, weaving & weaving preparation, chemical fiber, dyeing & finishing and nonwovens with strong overseas service network. We mainly engage in importing textile raw materials, selling industrial textiles and textile products & garments”, he added.

Figure 3: Mr. Wang Zhangchao, General Manager, China Texmatech Co., Ltd speaks at the program.

Mr. Wang presented the developing history of intelligent spinning solution.

Table 1: Developing history of JINGWEI Spinning Technology.

2000

Blowing and carding by chute feeding, autodoffing, long spinning frame

2010

Jingwei e-system

2013

First Roving-Spinning Winder link machine running

2014

Large scale of application of Roving Spinning Winder Link Machine

2015

Digital Spinning Workshop Projects pass the acceptance

2016

Industrial integration design and electrical integration are implemented

JINGWEI’s basic types of spinning technologies are carding, comber, Draw frame, Roving etc.

Table 2: The table shows some of JINGWEI spinning technology in speed/production.

Figure 2: Xiaohu Wang, Vice President, China Texmatech Co., Ltd delivered his speech.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Machine

100% cotton carded yarn

100%coton combed yarn

Polyester

Cellulose fiber

Card

60-120Kg/h

50-80Kg/h

70-120Kg/h

50-80Kg/h

Draw frame

350-500m/ min

350-450m/ min

350-500m/ min

350-450m/ min

79

S p i n n i n g To d a y Comber

Tex t i l e B a n g l a d e s h 500nips/m

Roving machine

1200RPM

1200RPM

1200RPM

1200RPM

Spinning machine

800020000RPM

1800022000RPM

800020000RPM

800018000RPM

AutoWinder

8001500RPM

8001500RPM

8001500RPM

8001500RPM

Roving-Ring-Winder link system Roving, Spinning and Winding are connected by the Roving-Ring-Winder Link System. The doffed roving packages are transferred to the conveyor through the exchange between the bare bobbin and the full package. They are conveyed to the spinning frame by motor driving. After that the bobbin which are taken off from the spinning frame are returned to the fly frame.

Marks and Spencer to increase garments import from Bangladesh to $1b Desk Report British Multinational Retailer Company Marks and Spencer will increase their imports from Bangladesh to one billion dollar, said Stephen Joseph Rowe, CEO of Marks and Spencer.

Automatic conveying and packing of yarn In this system, the automatic conveying and packing of yarn, the substitute robots production line for man to conveying, palletizing and packing yarn. If this system used in cotton workshop, not only many labors will be saved, but also the quality of yarn will be improved. The full-automatic yarn packing machine which have the function of auto opening and seaming bag, makes the packing of yarn easier and faster.

JINGWEI E-System Jingwei E system is a digital intelligent management system based on Jingwei Textile Machinery’s complete set of automatic equipment. The Jingwei E system’s functions are Production Monitoring, Equipment Management, Alarm system, Reporting System, Power Management, Order Management, Quality Control, Spindle Control. In this system the product efficiency has increased to more than 3-70 percent.

Figure 1: Stephen Joseph Rowe, CEO, Marks and Spencer.

“Now, the garments owners are more proactive about protecting the production environment, but previously they were not. This is a big change in the garment sector”, he added.

Guan Yapping, General Manager, JINGWEI, Textile Machinery Co. Ltd said, Bangladesh is the best opportunity for us. Bangladesh Textile Sector contributes more in its economy. We already have established five overseas service centers in Bangladesh, Vietnam, Pakistan, Indonesia, and Uzbekistan.

Md. Shabuddin, Managing Director, Pacific Associates Ltd thanked to all participants to attend the seminar.

Mr. Ruhul Amin, Executive Director, Pacific Associates Ltd hosted the seminar. At the event, the staffs of JINGWEI were asked different questions about the spinning machinery by the industrialists and others & satisfactory answers were found.

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Figure 2: Recently M&S CEO has visited Bangladesh office.

“It’s a new opportunity for Bangladesh, but we have to ensure delivery as per their expectation,” said Siddiqur Rahman, President of BGMEA. He also said, “We hope in the future, M&S will take more than billions from Bangladesh.”

Currently M&S is taking $800 million garments import from Bangladesh each year.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

B u s i n e s s To d a y

Bangladesh could be a lucrative place for investment of China Desk Report Country’s apex trade body the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) urged the Chinese businessmen to invest in the country’s prospective sectors like infrastructure, light industry, electronics and textiles sectors in Bangladesh.

Acting President Sheikh Fazle Fahim briefed the delegation about the lucrative investment facilities of Bangladesh Government for foreign investment including tax holiday, corporate tax incentive etc. and invited the Chinese businessmen to invest in the prospective

exporting to EU, Canada and many other countries. Chinese investors can utilize this facility to invest here”, said Mr. Fahim.

“Bangladesh is a huge market of 160 million people, Chinese investors can come forward for investment using their raw materials in production of different sectors”, he added.

The two countries can take advantage of the global opportunity as Bangladesh is the gateway of ASEAN and South Asian countries and close to China through Kunming while China occupies a unique geographic position bridging the parts of South Asia.

Figure: FBCCI Acting President Sheikh Fazle Fahim met with Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference Vice Chairman Lin Xiong on 19 November at FBCCI office in the city.

FBCCI also expressed interest to sign agreement for joint venture in manufacturing sector with any company from Gangdong. Mr. Lin Xiong, Vice Chairman of Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC), led the Chinese delegation.

Mr. Lin emphasized on strengthening the bilateral trade between FBCCI and CCPIT. FBCCI

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sectors of Bangladesh.

“Bangladesh is enjoying the duty free, quota free facility for

Bangladesh exported total amount of 949.41 million US $ to China in 2016-17 and imported the amount of 10128.1 million US $. The principal export products of Bangladesh to China are Woven Garments, Leather goods, Knitwear, Jute and Jute goods and leather and Frozen Foods etc. The import items from China are textiles machinery and mechanical appliance, electrical equipment and products of the chemical or allied industries etc.

Main Export Commodities

Main Import Commodities

Woven Garments

Textile Machinery

Knitwear

Mechanical and Electrical Equipment

Leather and Leather Goods

Chemical or Allied Industries

Jute and Jute Goods Frozen Foods

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Corporate Today

GoB honors 164 industrialists with CIP status Staff Correspondent Bangladesh government has honored 131 exporters in 22 export sectors with Commercially Important Persons (CIP) for their outstanding performance in 2014. The ministry of commerce and export promotion bureau also awarded CIP cards to 33 business persons under the ex-officio category from different business chambers and trade bodies.

FBCCI Acting President Sheikh Fazle Fahim, EPB Vice President Bijoy Bhattachariya, FBCCI former president A.K Azad also delivered their speech in the occasion.

The CIPs are authorized to various government facilities until the expiry of their cards.

1. T hey are allowed to enter the secretariat and invited to program.

2. T hey are also given the letter of introduction in Bangladesh embassies in different countries and allowed to use the VIP lounge at airports.

3. T hey are also given priority in reservation of seats at state-run airlines, railways and transports.

4. T he CIPs, their spouses and children will get cabins at government hospitals on a priority basis.

Figure 1: A renowned industry owner took CIP card from Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed.

Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed handed over the CIP cards to the industry owners on 12 November at hotel Sonargaon in the capital where he said, the export volume from Bangladesh has increased, the value has not gone up much. He urged exporters to explore potential in the new market.

Bangladesh RMG exporters are facing tough competition due to the devaluation of the currencies of countries such as Vietnam and Turkey said on behalf of CIP card recipients, Asif Ibrahim, a former president, DCCI and Vice Chairman, Newage Group.

Asif Ibrahim urged the government to take special measures to boost exports to countries such as Brazil, Mexico and Russia. The government should also withdraw the tax on export receipts and give 5 percent incentives to exporters, he added.

84

Figure: 2: Asif Ibrahim, Former President of DCCI, delivered speech.

More than 60 industry owners get CIP cards in textile sector. The list is given below: Name

Position

Company Name

Mohammad Tanvir Ahmad

Director

Cosmopolitan Industries Pvt. Ltd

Sharif Zahir

Managing Director

Ananta Apparels Ltd

Ali Azam Khandakar

Managing Director

Shinest Apparels Ltd

Arshad Jamal

Managing Director

Tusuka Trouser Ltd

Mujibur Rahman

Managing Director

Smart Jeans Ltd

Abdus Salam Murshedy

Managing Director

Manota Apparels Ltd

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 11

Majbah Uddin Khan

Managing Director

Windy Apparels Ltd

Azizul Islam

Managing Director

Alif Garments Ltd

Md. Mahidul Islam Khan

Managing Director

Citadel Apparels Ltd.

Joynul Abedin

Managing Director

Abedin Garments Ltd

Asif Ibrahim

Managing Director

New Age Garments

Golam Mostofa

Managing Director

GMS Knit Composite Ltd

Mr. Samuel S Chowdhury

Chairman

Square Fashion Ltd

Nafis Sikdar

Managing Director

Aswad Composite Mills Ltd

Nur E Yasmin Fatima

Managing Director

Sufia Cotton Mills Ltd

Noman Islam

Managing Director

Zaber and Zubair Accessories ltd

Abdullah Mohammad Zubair

Deputy Managing Director

Noman group

Zaber Mohammad

Deputy Managing Director

Noman group

Ferdous Parvez Bivon

Managing Director

Bando Fashion

Navil Uddhoula

Managing Director

Dird Composite Ltd

Md. Washim Rahman

Managing Director

MBM Garments Ltd

Tanvir Ahmad

Managing Director

Elegant Group

Atiqul Islam

Managing Director

Islam Group

A.K Azad

Managing Director

Ha-Meem Group

Sazzadur Rahman

Managing Director

Aba Group

Rana Shofi Ullah.

Managing Director

Laxma Fashion Ltd

Rakibul kabir

Managing Director

DEU Bd Ltd

Jalal Uddin

Managing Director

Clifton Group of Companies

Md. Abdul Jabbar

Managing Director

DBL Group

Khalilur Rahman

Managing Director

KDS Garments

Ms. Sultana Jahan

Managing Director

Star Light Group

Md. Shariar Alam

Managing Director

Islam Garments Ltd

A.B.M Shahidullah

Managing Director

Hannan Group

Md. Jahangir Alam

Chairman

J.K Group

Losing working hours for traffic jam at industrial zones Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing and Exporters Association (BGMEA) wants quick solution of traffic jam at garments industrial zones. BGMEA president Siddiqur Rahman said, “We are losing working hours due to traffic jam at Ashulia, Gazipur, Chittagong and Narayanganj economic zones”.

He also said, “The government has ordered all the ports including the port of Chittagong to remain open for 24 hours for 7 days of the week to ease the export activities. The government has taken several positive steps at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport which has reduced the lead time”, he added.

According to the Industrial Police of Bangladesh, industrial sector is playing a vital role in the development of Bangladesh. The contribution of industry to the GDP is around 28%, which is on the rise. About 81% of total export earnings come from the ready-made garment industry. Near 3500 factory are situated in above mentioned industrial zones.

According to BGMEA, the government should take proper decision about transport problem especially in 4 lanes in Ashulia and Gazipur highway. A garments owner shared his experience saying that it took him 4 hours to reach Ashulia through NobinagarChandra highway bypass due to traffic jam.

A foreigner visiting Bangladesh for the textile industry told this reporter that he started to reach a factory in Rajendrapur, Gazipur from Gulshan by 6.45 AM and he could reach the factory by 1.30 PM. He wondered how Bangladesh will be able to cope with such adverse traffic condition.

Akij Moyin

Managing Director

Far East Knitting Dyeing Ltd

Abdus Sobhan

Managing Director

Auko-Tex Group

Md.Aziz Mollah

Managing Director

Aduri Apparels Ltd

Moshiur Rahman

Managing Director

Jihad Textile Ltd

M.A Sabur

Chairman

Masco Group

S.M Jahir Mohiuddin

Managing Director

Apparels-11Ltd

Nasir Uddin

Managing Director

Sadma Fashion Ltd

Priti Podder

Managing Director

T&D Knitwear Ltd

Ms. Nafisa Rahman

Managing Director

Laxma Sweaters Ltd

Nurul Alam

Chairman

Papillon Knit Apparels

Anjan Sheikh

Managing Director

R.S.I Apparels Ltd

Sheikh A.M Mostafiz

Managing Director

Cuite Group of Industries

Ashulia

Md. Siraj Jamal

Managing Director

Fareast Fashion Ltd

Masuduzzaman

Managing Director

Model D Capital Industry

Amal Podder

Managing Director

Metro Knitting and Dyeing Ltd

Figure 1: Number of garments industry list in the industrial zones. Source; Industrial Police

Nazim Uddin

Managing Director

Interstoff Apparels Ltd

Md.Shamsuzzaman

Managing Director

Liberty knitwerar (bd) Ltd

Asadul Islam

Managing Director

Farihar Knitwear Ltd

Mahiuddin Faruqui

Chairman

Multifabs Limited

Md. Joynul Abedin

Managing Director

Knit Concern Group

ReazUddin Al-Mamoon

Managing Director

Epyllion Group

Asif Ashraf

Managing Director

Fakiruddin Textile Mills Ltd

Salah Uddin Alomgir

Managing Director

Labib Group

Abdul Awal

Managing Director

Prime group

Tanvir Khan

Managing Director

J.K Group

Another high official of a global company visiting Bangladesh for textile business told this reporter that he didn’t dare to visit the factories being aware of 1109 950 680

676

Gazipur

Narayanganj Chittagong

Figure2: Traffic Jam at highway road.

bad traffic conditions and decided to do meetings sitting in the hotels in Dhaka. He told to Textile Today that I am so unfortunate that I could not see Bangladeshi textile and garment factories even after reaching Dhaka.

A traffic police said,“Since midnight, the traffic jam was started to become severe but the situation is getting back to normal now. Traffic police, highway police, and local police are working restlessly round the clock to manage this traffic situation”, he added.

Source: EPB

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Oeko-Tex survey reveals 66% consumers feel the actions of an individual can reverse climate change Akhi Akter The OEKO-TEX® Association, in commemoration of its 25th anniversary, revealed a global research study to assess consumer attitudes about textile sustainability titled ‘The Key to Confidence: Consumers and Textile Sustainability—Attitudes, Changing Behaviors, and Outlooks’, where 41 percent of consumers identified ‘climate change’ as the third priority concern over the other 16 concerning issues. However, four in 10 consumers globally and half of those in non-production areas admit that they “Don’t know much about the way textiles or clothes are produced”.

This major study of sustainability and, more specifically, textile sustainability is the groundbreaking research as it is the first to focus on the global consumer rather than on the textile trade. “The OEKO-TEX portfolio of testing, certification and label products has increased substantially since we first entered the market in 1992,” says Anna

Czerwinska, head of marketing and communication at OEKO-TEX. “The world’s issues and consumer attitudes have changed just as significantly. As long-time leaders in textile sustainability, we felt that this unique global study to quantify consumer attitudes about textile sustainability was a fitting tribute to our past twentyfive years as well as a worthy undertaking to prepare us to succeed in the next.”

The study of more than 11,000 clothing and home textile consumers around the world showed that most people (80% to 90%) are aware of “eco-friendly” clothing and home textiles.

Thirty-six percent (36%) have purchased eco-friendly clothing and 32%, home textiles. Purchase is higher (54%) for “clothing or home textiles for babies or young children made with organic or other sustainable fibers.”

Most people of the world want to be part of the solution, not part of the problem. According to the survey, most (66%) feel that “the actions of an individual like myself can reverse climate

change” and 7 in 10 indicate that they are “committed to living a sustainable, environmentally friendly lifestyle” 60% of global consumers want to know if their clothing and home textiles are certified to be safe from harmful substances and responsibly produced. On the other hand, 31% indicate that they have purchased certified clothing.

The survey result showed that once people learn about the textile industry and the work done by OEKO-TEX®, 9 in 10 indicate that they would be likely to look for OEKO-TEX® labels in the future with 4 in 10 being very likely to do so. 9 in 10 global consumers indicate that an OEKO-TEX® label would give them more confidence in the textile products they buy due primarily to its testing for harmful substance, monitoring and managing environmental and social impact with objectivity and scientific methodology.

OEKO-TEX hired consumer products researcher, Ellen Karp and her company, Anerca Intl., to conduct the project. Participants completed an online survey with a full spectrum of questions designed to gauge their attitudes about sustainability, harmful substances, environmental responsibility and the social welfare of textile workers.

“The quantitative findings derived through The Key to Confidence study should serve as a call to action for the textile industry,” says Karp. “Consumers are fast learning that their textile buying decisions impact not only their families but also their communities and beyond.”

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I nve s t m e n t To d a y

Chinese company to invest 2.13 billion in Bangladesh for establishing Iron and Steel Zone Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA) and Yunnan Yongle Overseas Investment Co Ltd signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) for establishing an Iron and Steel Zone in Bangladesh on 29 November at a hotel in the capital.

Figure 1: Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) signing ceremony between BEZA and KISC.

Abul Kalam Azad said, “Very soon, more Chinese companieswill invest in economic zone and China will support us to achieve sustainable development goal (SDGs).”

“Many Chinese companiesare shifting to USA, Vietnam, Myanmar as labor costs are increasing in China”, said Chinese Ambassador Ma Mingqiang.

Chinese Ambassador suggested to all China companies to invest more in Bangladesh economic zone for low labor cost. “I hope that Bangladesh government will give extra facilities for Chinese investors”, said China Ambassador.

“China will invest in major sector like apparel, jute and leather at economic zone”, said Siddiqur Rahman, President of BGMEA. He suggested to garments owners to invest and set up their factories in economic zone to get extra facilities.

According to BEZA, China’s Kunming Iron & Steel Holding Company Ltd will invest $2.13 billion for setting up a steel factory and a power plant in either Maheshkhali or Mirsarai economic zone. Every year they will produce 2 million-ton iron and steel.

In the signing ceremony, Chief Guest Mr. Abul Kalam Azad, Principal Coordinator (SDGs) said,“It’s a one of big investment and opportunity for Bangladesh. I hope that this investment will promote international cooperation, explore and realize the development goal”.

Figure 3:Mr.Paban Chowdhury, Executive Chairman, BEZA delivered the speech.

Abdul Matlub Ahmed, Chairman, Star Infrastructure Development Ltd and Former President, FBCCI said, “It’s one of the largest FDI about 2.13 billion USD in Bangladesh. I hope this investment will help to create new job opportunities, decrease import of steel in Bangladesh”.

Figure 2: Mr. Abul Kalam Azad, Principal Coordinator (SDGs) of Prime Minister Office delivered the speech.

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BEZA Executive Chairmen, Paban Chowdhury said, “We will give 1,000 acres of land and its investment will create jobs for 30,000 people. We will offer competitive incentive package, one stop service, promote and protect investment in economic zone for our valued investors”.

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Govt. to establish two new leather industrial zones in Rajshahi and Chittagong Staff Correspondent Bangladesh government will set up two more industrial zones in Rajshahi and Chittagong divisions to flourish the country’s leather industry. Prime minister Sheikh Hasina announced this in an opening ceremony of Bangladesh Leather footwear and Leather goods International Sourcing Show (BLLISS) 2017 at the ICCB in the city via videoconference from her official residence.

other components like dyes & chemicals, accessories and allied products displayed in the show to benefit all industrial sectors in Bangladesh.

Tipu Sultan, organizer and Managing Director of ASK Trade & Exhibitions Pvt Ltd said, “It is the best platform for buyers and exhibitors. Both size and volume of the exhibition has been increased in this trade fair.

The increase in such volume is the evidence of modernization of leather and leather goods.”

Commerce minister Tofail Ahmed; acting FBCCI president Sheikh Fazle Fahim; diplomats, dignitaries and the leaders of different trade bodies were present at the opening ceremony.

Figure 1: Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina inaugurates three-day Bangladesh Leather footwear and Leather goods International Sourcing Show.

Prime Minister expected to basket $5 billion export earnings from the leather, leather goods and footwear sector out of the total export earnings of $60 billion, keeping in line with Vision 2021. Sheikh Hasina urged the foreign investors and buyers to invest more in Bangladesh leather sector and source more leather products from Bangladesh.

According to the experts, country’s leather and leather products industry is in the brinks of huge growth possibilities.

In the three-day exhibition, nearly 250 exhibitors from 15 countries, including India and China participated. Tanning leather, manufacturing footwear and leather goods machinery along with 88

Figure 2: A visitor inspects different types of leather goods at the exhibition.

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