Textile Today | October 2017 by Textile Today

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 10 |

Issue 10 |

years of Publication

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 October 2017 www.textiletoday.com.bd

BDT 150, USD 10

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Sustainability story at page 21

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Sub Editor Akhi Akter Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member Md. Muddassir Rashid Amzad Hossain Monir Md. Abdul Jobber Rakibul Islam Tania Khatun Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 12th November 2017 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. ÂŠ All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2017 Volume 10, Issue 10 (October 2017) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

Issue 10 |

years of Publication

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 October 2017 www.textiletoday.com.bd

BDT 150, USD 10

USD 50 Billion

Advertisement at page 05

Advertisement at page 17

Innovations, opportunities and trends in ‘Apparel’, ‘Fabric’ and ‘Green’ factories in Bangladesh

Trends and new opportunities in Bangladesh

Exclusive Silicones! Ultimate Everytime

Advertisement at page 15

Sustainability story at page 21

TAKE

THE RIGHT

STEPS ETERNAL WHITE. TO AN

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge Volume 10 |

On the Cover

Content

ISO 9001:2015

Editorial

12-13

Driving business with knowledge

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well know Germany based textile auxiliaries and specialty chemical manufacturer. Their high performance auxiliaries are easing the textile finishing process.

October’ 17 |

Volume 10 |

Issue 10

News & Analysis- Infrastructure

Social and environmental risks in cotton trade

Cover Story USD 50 Billion

14-18

Trends and new opportunities in Bangladesh

Top Story

34-36

Textile and garments manufacturers urge govt. to ensure efficient ports, stable .....

Extended partnerships between Huntsman and Viyellatex Group

Continuous Improvement

Advertorial

38-40

“Smart dyeing & finishing CHTC FONG'S innovations” ........

Campus Today

19-24

51-53

Importance of 5S in making the earth a better place

Dying Innovation

Sustainability redefined, re-integrated and breakthrough ............

Cover Plus

42-43

75 percent job related knowledge is absent .....

Smart Textile

26-28

Innovations, opportunities and trends in ‘Apparel’, ‘Fabric’ and ‘Green’ factories in Bangladesh

44-45 30-31

H&M and Bangladesh, a journey with love, passion and future

Acquiring information from scientific literature

Huntsman unveils their latest innovations for sustainable growth......

Textile Talent Hunt

58-60

Textile Talent Hunt inspires the new generation of textile engineers towards R&D

In Focus

Fashion Today

Bangladesh can focus on producing conductive textiles

54-56

46-48

The psychology of color and its impact on our life style

Bangladesh RMG exports increases 7.17 % in first quarter of FY

Mohammad Hatem elected member of IAF board of directors

Foundation Course on

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Sewing & Finishing Stitches, Sewing Machine, Garment Finishing Quality & Inspection Accepted Quality Level (AQL) and Inspection Guidelines Lean Manufacturing Line balancing, reducing wastage, removing bottlenecks

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***More professionals working in leadership positions in apparel industries will join in their trainer’s profile.

Course fees: 4,900/- (Four Thousand Nine Hundred Taka Only) ** 10% discount for Textile Today Subscriber. ** 5 or more participants from one organization will get special discount. ***Students requiring support in Factory Engagement need to apply separately.

P l e a s e b o o k y o u r s e a t h e r e : w w w. t r a i n i n g . t e x t i l e t o d a y. c o m . b d Contact: Mob: 01734 211085 Email: training@textiletoday.com.bd

Venue: The House of Textile Today, 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka-1230

Content Factory Tales

October’ 17 |

Technical Textiles

DBL Group will set up 19 factories in Moulvibazar by 2021

68-69 72 62-64

Kutumbita – empowering non-desk workforce

Bangladesh should invest in ‘Nanotechnology’ to enter in ..........

More than 50% of global technical textiles market will be in Asia-Pacific

‘Not my style’ mobile app can alert consumers to ........

76 76

Circular Fashion

77-78

C&A launches gold level ‘Cradle to Cradle’ certified t-shirts

Weacing Today

Itema group launches a training center in Lahore

Human Capital

Marks & Spencer tree plantation campaign at HAMS industrial campus

78 66

Issue 10

Sustainability Today

Volume 10 |

Green production methods save $4.67 million every year for DBL Group

Gas crisis- Noman Group’s Tongi units alone occurs loss of Tk. 20 crore

‘SMART’ project to find out sustainability hot spots in the life cycle of T-shirt and jeans pant

Job creation has slowed down especially ........

More than 14 percent of export earnings are .....

Textile People

Energy Today

73-74

ITET to get land for own building within one month

FDI hit record with 22.54 percent rise in last FY

Apparel exports growing in volume not in value

Deal signed with Qatar to import annually 2.5 million tonnes LNG

Editorial

Social and environmental risks in cotton trade Abdul Wadud Project Director of Jute diversification project of Sonali Aansh GROUP Consultant, TRANSFORM E-mail: abdulwadud.jcc.du.iba.rhodes@gmail.com Introduction: On 3rd of October 2017 an academic seminar was arranged on “Sustainable Market Actors for Responsible Trade (SMART) at Uttara Club, jointly organized by BUFT, Nyenrode Business University and University of Oslo. This paper was presented in the seminar by the author. Social and environmental risks in conventional cotton trade: Cotton being an agricultural commodity is vulnerable to weather, water availability and irrigation, soil condition and choice of fertilizer, seed variety and choice of seeds, diseases and handling with pesticides and chemicals, availability and choice of inputs, cultivation practices and methods, price volatility, supply chain transparency and effective research and training to make it viable socially, environmentally and economically.

two major types of risks; Systematic and Non-systematic risks or Un-controllable and Controllable risks. If we have a look at the different concepts of “Sustainable Cotton” we can easily find out that all of them are focused to eliminate the Controllable risks. It may differ from one approach to the other but each concept touches or tries to eliminate or minimize some of the Controllable risks. We can see from the Table-1, that all the Sustainable Cotton initiatives are playing important roles in minimizing the controllable social and environmental risks.

being played by sustainable cotton initiatives, there are some flowed miss-conceptions that are hindering the further growth of demand for sustainable cotton. Some of these are mentioned in the following Table-2. Way forward to increase the demand of sustainable cotton: The future success lies in positioning or re-positioning the perception on Sustainable Cotton Initiatives to the entire value chain, focused on the following two angles: 1. Highlighting the positive roles of sustainable cotton initiatives and

How to minimize these risks?

That is why most of the retailers and brands are promoting sustainable cotton and as per the BCI FACT SHEET 2017, “In 2016, less than 20% of global cotton production was independently verified as grown using more sustainable practices….” which is very encouraging.

We are basically talking about

In spite of the positive roles,

2. R emoval of miss-conceptions about sustainable cotton initiatives. Source of non-cotton sustainable fibre: Resources are limited and we need to make the best use of our available resources, with consideration economic, environmental and social aspects involved around it. We can also ponder on the following two scopes

Table - 1: Controlable social and environmental risk minimization through different sustainable cotton initiatives. Controllable Risks

Organic

Encourage indigenous seed varieties which supports local eco-system

√

Ensures that during cotton cultivation no hazardous chemicals and pesticides are being used

√

Water conservation and ways out

√

During cotton cultivation, ensures no fertilizer, pesticides and chemicals are used other than organic

√

Scientific use of fertilizer, pesticides and chemicals

BCI

CmiA

Fair Trade

√

LEADS

√

Good agronomical and labour practice

√

Ensures TRACEBILITY in the value chain

√

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Editorial

Table – 2: Some miss-conceptions about sustainable cotton initiatives.

of available sustainable fibre: -

Sustainable cotton

Wrong perceptions

Organic

Many people wrongly believe that it is just a piece of paper. Real organic cotton price should be 40-50 cents/lb more than the conventional cotton.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) & Cotton made in Africa (CmiA)

Many people believe that “Mass Balancing” is not proper. But don’t understand that it has given more flexibility and eventually turned more cotton into sustainable cotton which is minimizing social and environmental risks. On top of that New Concept of “Physical BCI” is emerging where mass balancing is not allowed. In case, of CmiA, Hard Identification Process (HIP) is there right from the beginning.

1. Jute: Bangladesh produces one of the best jute in the world. But we need to think of ways to make jute blended yarn to make high end denim, home textiles and suiting items. Jute being bio-degradable has immense opportunity to replace poly bags.

Fair Trade (FT)

Not in demand

LEADS

Retailers and Brands are not interested.

2. R ecycled garments/fabric fibre: Huge amount of garments cutting are wasted and dumped that creates hazards. These cutting can be transformed into fibre to make useful products.

Bangladesh RMG exports increases 7.17 % in first quarter of FY Staff Correspondent According to the latest data of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), export earnings in the first quarter are 2.84% less than the target of $8.91 billion set for the period. The data reveals that the RMG sector earned $7.14 billion in the quarter, which is 7.17% higher compared to $6.66 billion in the same period a year ago. Knitwear products earned $3.75 billion, a 10.18% up, and woven garments earned $3.39 billion, a 4.04% up compared to $3.26 billion in the corresponding period last year. When the quarter performance is not that bad the month September was devastating. Export receipts shows crashing down in the month of September on the back of lower shipments of garment products after registering a record high in August. Last month, exports raked $2.03 billion, which are 10.18 percent less from a year earlier and 44.23 percent less from August 2017. According to data from the Export Promotion Bureau, September's earnings missed the monthly target set by the commerce ministry by $750 million. Lower shipments of garment products, which typically account for 80 percent of the total export receipts, have been blamed for the slump in September's export earnings. “One of the reasons for the slowdown in garment exports last month is that it coincided with Eidul-Azha, so the factories remained shut for a long

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Fiscal Year

Export earnings in billion $

2013-14

7.63

2014-15

7.70

2015-16

7.76

2016-17

8.08

2017-18

8.66

Figure1: Showing export earnings in the first quarter of the mentioned fiscal years. Source: EPB

stretch”, said Siddiqur Rahman, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association. Abdus Salam Murshedy, President of Exporters Association of Bangladesh said, “Our export industry is undergoing a critical moment. Since Bangladesh is slowly moving towards its $50 billion export target (by 2021), there must be a monetary policy for the industry to remain combative in the global market.” “The government should concentrate on reducing transportation costs, ensuring better infrastructural facilities and take initiatives to build deep-sea ports”, he added. Shipment of jute and jute goods grew 15.46 percent to $236.12 million, which is 5.87 percent below the target for the July-September period. Home textile export also grew 23.81 percent during JulySeptember to $193.69 million, according to EPB data.

C ove r S t o r y

Trends and new opportunities in Bangladesh Tareq Amin With a tradition of producing globally recognized one of the finest fabrics in the world namely ‘Muslin’ Bangladesh has emerged as second largest apparel exporter in the world. The apparel industry is almost 40 years old today and it is in the best position now to deliver more efficiently and effectively to the world. A lot more is yet to be explored in Bangladesh. Bangladesh has been well known for producing low price basic garments in volume but now is undergoing a huge transformation. Companies in Bangladesh are producing top quality value added products for brands like ‘Hugo Boss’ and they are also supplying major volume of Fast Fashion products for Zara-Inditex and H&M. At the same time the country is producing low cost big volumes for brands like Walmart/Asda, Primark, JC Penny, Carrefour, K-Mart, Target etc. Strong export growth open up enormous opportunities Bangladesh could maintain a significant growth in apparel export to the world through last many years. A study from BGMEA shows that the growth was highest among competing countries for eight years from 2008 to 2015. While global industry growth was about 50%, Bangladesh could secure a growth close

to 120% through the period. As per the figure 1, only Vietnam is close to Bangladesh in this aspect. As per as apparel export growth is concerned 2016-17 financial year was not good for Bangladesh otherwise the country was maintaining a tremendous growth for last 10 years. The country was maintaining a CAGR apparel growth of 12.43% through this period. In financial year 2015-16 apparel export growth reached to 28.09 billion USD from 10.7 billion USD in FY 2007-8. In the year 2016-17 apparel export was 28.15 billion USD which is only 0.2% higher than the previous year. From figure 1 Bangladesh can identify its major competitors in apparel export who are Vietnam, Cambodia and India. Based on the positive trends and core competences of Bangladesh, the government has set an ambitious target for the textile and apparel industry. BGMEA and government look for USD 50 billion apparel export by the year 2021. If that has to open the country has to go through a major transformation as shown in figure 2. And this transformation is going to open up enormous market and business opportunities for countries like China and India. USD 50 Billion

Target for 2020-21

Export of 2019-20

USD 30.16 Billion

Export target of 2018-19

USD 28.15 Billion

Figure 1: Year on Year export growth percentage of major clothing supplying countries.

Export of 2017-18

Figure 2: Achieving 50 billion USD export target will require a big transformation hence will come up with major business opportunities in the value chain.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

True innovation that changes your game AVITERAÂŽ SE dyes meet the environmental standards of global brands. Its ground-breaking technology reduces water and energy consumption while increasing productivity through shorter production time.

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C ove r S t o r y

These countries will be able to supply huge amount of raw and processed materials. Bangladesh for ‘quality at lowest cost’: Textile & Apparel industry is considered to be the strongest pillar of Bangladesh economy. It has fundamental distinctive characteristics and involves a large and diversified range of activities that use varying mix of materials for producing products which are trusted by leading global brands. Bangladesh could establish it as quality supplier of cotton and cotton blends based knitwear and woven garments. However in recent times it has proved its strength in producing diversified fabrics and accessories especially for knits. The woven fabric sector particularly has great internal fabric demand and poses enormous investment opportunities. The core competence of the country is not only ‘cheap labor’ but now it could be mentioned also as ‘quality at lowest cost’.

chain uncertainties and risks. And so Bangladesh is the most preferred destination of most of the purchasing managers of global brands as per reported by McKinsey & Company. Potential supplier of textile engineers, researchers and experts to the world Bangladesh has seen a revolution in textile education and a big flux of textile educated graduates are joining the sector every year. For last few years around 5000 graduates are coming out every year from education system from B.Sc. Engineering in Textiles and other relevant subjects. Bangladeshi students

use of it. 70% of Bangladesh population is under 40 years old. Most of them are educated and motivated. Every year around 2 million people are entering in the job market. And that is where the core competence of the country lies. If this youth could have been prepared well and utilized well they can pull the country towards next transformation. A recent research of Textile Today has identified transforming Human Capital of the country as one of the way outs of reaching Bangladesh’s export targets. Has transformed it as one of the safest textile and apparel industry in the world

Due to the intensive safety net programs like Accord & Alliance, Bangladesh The companies and the people textile and apparel sector working in the industries literally have is transforming into one proved that ‘customer is first and of the safest industries in alright’. Buyers enjoy full freedom the world. As per BGMEA in access to the resources and Accord and Alliance already information of the Bangladeshi textile has audited 3746 apparel factories among which and apparel manufacturers. And this about 98% were found open culture has made Bangladesh to be fit for continuing a place where buyer, supplier, operation. Meanwhile manufacturer all work hand in hand to Openness, resilience most of the factories and readiness to accept overcome supply chain uncertainties have completed their improvement suggestions and risks. suggested remediation and corrections by Accord and Though the country still Alliance. Both the initiatives requires more diversification have acknowledged the in products and market, it have proved themselves in the progress Bangladesh has made has achieved good level of building, fire safety and other fields of research. Every year in the efficiency in doing a certain occupational health and safety areas. hundreds of students are going range of products. The openness, out to the world including China, resilience and readiness to accept Undergoing a ‘Green’ revolution: USA, UK, and Germany for improvement suggestions of the masters, PhD and post-doctoral The country hosts top ranked buyers have made Bangladesh level research. Many Bangladeshi USBC LEED certified Green a safe haven for global brands. experts are working in global factories in the world. As per The companies and the people positions of global brands and BGMEA, Bangladesh hosts 7 working in the industries literally textile manufacturing companies. among top 10 Platinum ranked have proved that ‘customer is Bangladesh is emerging as textile apparel factories in first and alright’. Buyers enjoy a potential supplier of textile the world. Over several years full freedom in access to the engineers and experts for the world. Bangladesh has made a clear resources and information of the revolution in making ‘Green’ Bangladeshi textile and apparel Blessed with a young population factories which is helping manufacturers. And this open Bangladesh is blessed with huge reducing environmental foot culture has made Bangladesh human resources. Being a labor print of the country. About 250 a place where buyer, supplier, intensive industry textile and factories has applied for USBC manufacturer all work hand apparel industry is making best Green certification among them in hand to overcome supply

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

C ove r S t o r y

80 are ongoing and 25 already been approved. Green factories are believed to have great positive impact for Bangladesh in branding the country as an environment friendly producer of textile and apparel. A well know supplier for ‘Denim’ products Over the years Bangladesh could establish himself to number one denim makers in the world. Starting from yarn dyeing to denim washing the country has a very strong manufacturing base for denim products. Bangladesh is stitching denim garments for brands like Levi, Wrangler, Diesel, G-star Raw and also for brands like Primark in high volume. More than 50% of denim fabric demand of Bangladesh could be catered by local fabric mills. Bangladeshi washing industries has developed themselves significantly over the years. Bangladeshi denim washing units possess high-tech water and energy efficient machinery using lasers and automation controls. A proper strategy in denim sector could bring huge opportunities for investors and buyers. Major infrastructure projects underway Bangladesh government is in the process of resolving key challenges for the industry. The gas and electricity problem is being solved by the arrangement of LNG infrastructure and high voltage grid power connection to the factories. Four lane road projects are underway to connect manufacturing districts all around Dhaka. Though still there are number of bottlenecks are creating considerable traffic congestions, a better management can help them reducing. After completion of some projects, traffic situation is supposed to improve. Padma Bridge is progressing well and is to connect the South-West part of the country with faster and easier access. This will help the

country using more resources for global trade and manufacturing. Special Economic Zones are attracting foreign investment Special Economic Zones with all necessary facilities are opening up enormous opportunities for foreign investors. In the era of fast fashion and product customization reducing lead time is a critical issue. Chinese fabric or textile producers can come closer to the Bangladeshi apparel producers by setting up manufacturing plants in Bangladesh and helping achieving the target of the global brands in terms of faster lead time. The Bangladesh government is offering all necessary infrastructure and facilities in the SEZs for foreign investors. Though BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) doesn’t want foreign investment in producing regular products, Bangladesh would welcome foreign investments in backward linkage industries which will reduce import of input materials for Bangladesh. Bangladesh now imports woven and other fabrics and accessories worth of around 5 billion USD per year. More investments are needed in producing such products to reduce lead time for manufacturing final products. Manmade fiber and textile producing would be thrust sector in Bangladesh. The country welcomes foreign investment in such technology driven products. Despite some infrastructure bottlenecks foreign investments in Bangladesh particularly in textiles have been proved to be very successful one. One of such great example is ‘Youngone Group’ which has set its largest manufacturing base in Bangladesh and employing more than 60,000 people in its number of successful factories.

Mohammad Hatem elected member of IAF board of directors Staff Correspondent

Mohammad Hatem has been elected member of the board of directors of IAF (International Apparels Federation) in its 33rd annual board of directors meeting and annual convention held at Hotel Grand Hyatt at Rio De Janeiro, Brazil 0n 17th October 2017. Mohammad Hatem is the Managing Director of MB Knit Fashion Ltd, 1st vice president of Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) & Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA). International Apparel Federation (IAF) is an international trade association established in 1976. Till today BKMEA is the only organization from Bangladesh that obtained membership to represent Bangladesh in the IAF. Mohammad Hatem established knit factory in 1992. He has been one of the significant contributors in two leading trade bodies of garment manufacturers in Bangladesh BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association) and BKMEA (Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association).

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

To p S t o r y

Sustainability redefined, re-integrated and breakthrough chemical solutions presented Staff Correspondent Use of eco-friendly chemicals and more renewable raw materials in textiles, leathers and plastic processing are very essential that would reduce impact on the environment and play a major role making the world sustainable. Awareness and initiatives around ‘sustainability’ has brought number of changes in application of chemicals on textiles and so textile chemical manufacturing industries also had adopt those changes. A ‘sustainability’ seminar organized in Dhaka recently came up with some breakthrough solutions which can make real impact in changing the sustainability gamut of the textile value chain. The title of the seminar was ‘Sustainability 2.0’. ‘Sustainability’ was supposed to be the integral part of the business not to be considered as an imposed

prescription or requirements as per as the concept of ‘Sustainability 2.0’. As per the book Sustainability 2.0 by Ernesto van Peborgh and corresponding articles and developments around 2008-09 ‘Sustainability’ is supposed to the core of the company. All the decisions and strategies of the companies must be taken considering ‘Sustainability’. But the reality is ‘Sustainability 2.0’ created number of new regulations all around the sector. And till now the sustainability gamut is mostly centered to different regulations, requirements and certifications. Anything implemented as regulations, requirements and certifications don’t really mean that those have been done as self-initiative. Still there have been discussions whether the industries truly have taken the ownership of ‘sustainability’ or it

is still an imposition. The seminar organized by Britacel Silicones and Beyond Surface Technologies titled ‘Sustainability 2.0’ tried to find out the answers to the above mentioned basic questions. The seminar gathered strategic decision makers from the government, legislative bodies, certification agencies, textile manufacturers and chemical manufacturers. It has been a phenomenal place that generated effective discussions. Some of those discussions have been taken note by the leaders of the country and the industry. Mirza Azam (MP), State Minister of Textile and Jute inaugurated the program where H.T Imam, Adviser to the Prime Minister was present as the chief guest at the closing of the event. Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahaman, President, Institute of Textile Engineers &

Figure 1: Leaders from the government and the industries spoke on the occasion. (L-R) H.T Imam, Adviser to the Prime Minister, GoB, Mirza Azam (MP), State Minister of Textile and Jute, GoB, Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahaman, President, Institute of Textile Engineers & Technologists Bangladesh.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Figure 2: The panel tried to reach to the answers to some basic questions around sustainability. (L-R) Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Textile Today, Engr. Salim Reza, Executive Director, Devine Textiles, Shaheen Mahmud, Chairman, Cotton Group, Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahaman, President, ITET, Managing Director, HAMS Group, Mathias Foessel CEO, Beyond Surface Technologies, Ketan Deshi, Managing Director, Britacel Silicones Ltd.

Technologists was the special guest of the event. Key decision makers of the government including Mahbubul Alam Hanif MP, Joint General Secretary, Bangladesh Awami League were also present at the seminar. In the opening speech, Mirza Azam highlighted on several initiatives that were taken by the government for improving textile and jute industries of Bangladesh. “Government is trying to achieve duty free entry in different countries and opening the closed jute mills based on PPP,” he said. He gave thanks to the private sector with saying that “Role of private sector is not less than public sector.” Unification and harmonization of sustainability governance system: H.T Imam mentioned an article on sustainability from Textile Today and said to drive the industry to adopt holistic approach towards sustainability. He said that one unified platform for certification is better than number of platforms, with saying, “Legislations should be industry, people and environment friendly”. He assured the participants of the symposium that he would convey

the symposium’s message to the Prime Minister. Prior to the closing speeches of H.T Imam, the seminar discussed the necessity of aligning the set of regulations and certifications the factories now had to comply. In Panel Discussion at the seminar speakers echoed that dealing with ambiguous and never ending requirements of certificates to prove the compliance towards sustainability is against the spirit of ‘Sustainability 2.0’. In an ideal case the production units will become responsible and sustainable only because of the market forces. When the consumers and corresponding retailers will align them in a sustainable manner its positive impact will naturally come down to the manufacturers and their production will also be sustainable. The panel also opined that maintaining numerous set of regulations and certification is tiring and expensive, this at the end of put enormous negative pressure on the concept ‘sustainability’. The current system always proves that ‘sustainability’ is a liability not an opportunity.

But all the panel members agreed that sustainability must be considered as opportunity. And so they urged to the government and other stakeholders to make a common platform for certification as it could reduce extra cost and hassles. And so the ‘sustainability’ will be well defined and understood by all in a same fashion. The ‘system of governance’ has to be unified and identified they proposed. The chief guest of the event H.T Imam also agreed on this and asked all concerned to work on this to align the local and global sustainability requirements. Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahaman, President, ITET, Managing Director, HAMS Group, Shaheen Mahmud, Chairman, Cotton Group, Engr. Salim Reza, Executive Director, Devine Textiles, Ketan Deshi, Managing Director, Britacel Silicones Ltd, Mathias Foessel CEO, Beyond Surface Technologies were the panelists in the session. Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Textile Today was moderating the session. Sustainability from the perspective of certifying bodies The seminar got a unique

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

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* GOTS approved. * Reach Pre- registered. * Blue Sign system partnering in process. * ZDHC certiﬁcation in process. * Green Screen bench marking under process.

To p S t o r y

composer because of the inclusion of speakers from leading sustainability certification and initiatives. Rashmi Naidi, Ex. Technical Director from REACH support rightly has mentioned that if the textile manufacturers who are exporting to Europe can have a careful look on the REACH requirements it is easy to comply. REACH is the European Commission regulation which aims to improve protection of health and environment by the process registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals. Sumit Gupta, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Representative in India & Bangladesh highlighted the achievements of GOTS in the region. He informed that Bangladesh is a thirst market for GOTS certification. GOTS has got highest growth in Bangladesh in 2016. GOTS is the standard that can help identifying certain products produced organically. Prashant Pote,

Customer Relationsip Manager, BlueSign gave his presentation on Bluesign. Bluesign is getting popular everyday not only for the textile dyes and chemicals manufacturers but also for the textile processing mills. Prashant presented how textile dyeing and finishing companies can achieve Bluesign certificates and can gain advantage for them. Prasad Pant, CEO-Nimkartek told that all the sustainability interventions must be financially viable for the factories. Nimketerk is the training provider for the ZDHC process. From the session, it has been understood that to take proper benefit out from the regulating and certification agencies a careful look is required. Though as per the concept of ‘sustainability 2.0’ the interventions were supposed to be self-driven and no other force supposed to be needed, the industry certifications always

helped to gain recognition from the market. If no premium could be achieved from the certificates, companies feel pressure because of the extra burden and load. Currently textile manufacturing companies and the dyestuffs and chemicals manufacturing companies are under pressure to comply a lot of regulations and requirements and this is increasing cost on them. In many cases they don’t get the premium out of them. The solutions A speaker in the seminar told that usually the industry has seen that Sustainability seminars have been organized by donor agencies, government of regulatory companies. Normally chemical companies get scared of such discussion and try to avoid engaging much with sustainability discussions. But here unusually two chemical companies called Britacel Silicones and Beyond Surface

Figure 3: Speakers from regulation and certificate providers. Clockwise from top left corner Sumit Gupta, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Representative in India & Bangladesh, Prashant Pote, Customer Relationsip Manager, BlueSign, Prasad Pant, CEONimkartek, Rashmi Naidi, Ex. Technical Director from REACH.

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input, the output bio waste stream components in will be safer for the their formulations too. ‘On green environment and we textile chemistry’ was the title (Britacel Silicones of Mr. Mathias Foessel’s speech ltd) always try to where he highlighted Beyond put something Surface Technologies’s mission non-hazardous, to create textile chemicals sustainable and having the lowest possible safer alternative of impact on the environment chemicals for the without compromising on textile operation. performance. He explained So that, our end how their technologies help to users have less risk ensure sustainability. He said Figure 4: Arindam Choudhuri, Head of Technical, Britacel Silicones ltd. in the ETP (Effluent that they were working with Treatment Plant), renewable rather than finite Technologies took the courage water discharge raw materials typically allowed and asked critical sophisticated does not contain least possible them to provide products with a sustainability questions to the hazardous things for the lower carbon footprint as well as industry. Reason behind the environment”. He also said, lower greenhouse gas emissions. unusual step from the two “To adopt sustainability 2.0 Reducing hazards upfront is companies could be understood concept is not possible without our approach versus trying to when they presented their joint effort. It needs effort from control them subsequently in an chemical solutions at the end of government, certification body, industrial environment, he added. the seminar. Both the companies chemical manufacturer and the Digital printing allowing presented their breakthrough more and more fashion solutions taking care of the three customization sustainability pillars of Economic, Environmental and Social. The Swiss Performance core objective of the seminar Chemicals Ag (SPC) then understood well. And that was founded in 2006 is asking a collaborative effort by industry specialized from all counterparts in the in delivering novel sustainability spectrum. Both the products with outstanding chemical companies expressed performance for the their confidence that they are well emerging Digital Printing in position to make textiles and Markets. Thomas textile manufacturing sustainable Heger, Director, Swiss by providing necessary chemical Performance Chemicals Figure 5: Mathias Foessel CEO, Beyond Surface Technologies Ag. solutions. Ag said to Textile Today Britacel silicones- sustainability at core Britacel Silicones Ltd started its journey in 1989 with the vision “ONE UP in finishing of textile EVERY TIME” and for quality it follows ISO 9001-2008 system. Arindam Choudhuri, Head of Technical, Britacel Silicones ltd. presented his company’s solutions and services to the audience. Britacel has grown today to whopping 18,000 tons/ year of Silicones and other textile auxiliaries’ production. Over a period, textile market has placed Britacel as one of trusted vendor. Mr. Arindam Choudhuri said, “If the industry has sustainable

Bangladesh Textile Today |

end users.” Beyond- Renewable raw materials for finishing chemicals

that SPC is a leader in the development of innovative chemistries, driving the adoption of digital production in textile printing and customized inks for special materials and applications. SPC’s strategy is to provide high

Beyond Surface Technologies Ag was established in 2008 to design better chemistry for textiles. It develops products that reduce the impact of textile chemical finishes on the environment. The company seeks to either fully or significantly replace synthetic crude oil based raw materials with renewable ones. In addition, wherever Figure 6: Thomas Heger, Director, Swiss Performance Chemicals Ag possible, they include

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quality inks globally, ensuring the best cost of ownership to make their customers’ digital production viable and sustainable. In his presentation, Mr. Thomas highlighted the positive aspects of the digital inks and digital printing uses. He showed how digital inks and digital printing are less harmful for the environment and how it could help in sustainability. According to Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), by 2020, some 15 percent of clothing purchase in America will be customized for fit, color or style, so that, digital inks and digital printing could play an effective role as this allow the final end customization very easily. Active participation of stakeholders As mentioned above the seminar got tremendous participation from most of the stakeholders of the industry. Besides factories number of brands also joined the

seminar. Participants highlighted on the importance and impact of green initiatives across the textile value chain. They called for fewer natural resources to keep it for the next generation and give a cushion to the earth, as climate change has become a burning issue. A representative from a renowned brand told that ‘sustainability should not be treated as an obligation, which will increase cost of a company rather it should be understood that it can brought up enormous opportunities if a company adopt holistic approach to sustainability.’ For Bangladesh, the second largest Ready Made Garments (RMG) exporter to the world, it has come as an idea to not only reduce risk for future but also identify and capitalize opportunities. To do well, we have to do actually something to create transparency on raw materials. Stop accepting inherent risk

and start learning sustainability approach from other industries, experts suggested. Our Moto is to produce safe green chemicals with lower resources using new raw materials for supporting zero waste initiatives, said the sector people. In future, we should think about chemicals which easily biodegradable and that are recyclable and won't impact environment, they added. Sustainability means responsible management of resources to meet present needs in textile processing field without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. The chemical suppliers urged to eliminate risks besides controlling the residue ones. With the time the synthetic chemical industries changes its shape & size with new revolution for the continuous demand on textile, leather and plastic processing industries, they added.

Santex Rimar Group retraces the Silk Road in Iran Desk Report

Santex Rimar Group and China Textile Information Centre jointly presented the ‘Future Textile Road’ in the city of Iran, Yazd in September 2017, with the aim to build an innovative platform for the future development of the global textile industry and the long-term construction of the cooperation between the two countries. It is the place where a branch of the Silk Road skirts the Western and Southern edges of Iran’s central desert. Yazd can be called as Iran’s textile industry hub. ‘Future Textile Road’ investigated the theme of osmosis between East and West, and between the Persian textiles trends and Italian technology. During the event Santex Rimar Group signed an agreement with Yazd University for supplying a SMIT rapier weaving machine with the purpose to train students

on the latest textile technologies and do research jointly. Aliasghar Alamdar-Yazdi and Dr. Seyed Abbas Mir Jalili from the Textile Engineering Department of Yazd University, MrKamalian from the Sanatva Maadan Bank Mine & Industries Bank, Federico Businaro, Figure: SantexRimar Group signed an agreement with Yazd University for supplying a SMIT rapier-weaving General Manager of machine. Santex Rimar Italy, fabrics, which are among the best products Enrico Valsecchi, Sales Head of of SMIT rapier weaving machines. SMIT, Giancarlo Grandesso from Gi.Vi.Co, SMIT agent in Iran were SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is one present in the event. of the leading players in the world market of textile finishing, The event represented a unique technical textiles and green opportunity to the attendees to technologies for water treatment visit the factory of SMIT customer and drying processes. The Group Reza Soltani. With more than 36 is a machine manufacturer and a years of experience, they began technology partner for knitted, weaving traditional fabrics before woven and nonwoven fabrics and focusing mainly on upholstery green solutions.

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Figure 1: The Bangladesh seminar organized by Textile Today in Intertextile Shanghai attracted good international crowd.

Innovations, opportunities and trends in ‘Apparel’, ‘Fabric’ and ‘Green’ factories in Bangladesh Ashfaque Ahmed, Director, Promoda Textiles Ltd. and Promoda Apparels Ltd. This October 2017, there was a session allotted for speakers from Bangladesh to speak about “Trends and New Opportunities in Bangladesh” in the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric Expo 2017. The exact time was 13.00-14.30hrs on October 11, 2017. This is the first time a panel from Bangladesh was invited. The panel and the seminar were organized by Textile Today and Messe Frankfurt. People from all around the world came to hear about innovations, opportunities, trends, and most importantly to share their experience to understand and foresee the possible movement of fashion in textile and apparel sector.

It is always good for the industries from Bangladesh to show case their products, strengths or even to give an idea about raise in ethical standards and architectural masterpiece in the industrial sectornot to mention in textile and apparel. We have seen huge response from audience who marked their calendar to attend this session in Textile Dialogue corner of the big NECC (National Exhibition and Convention Center) covering 27,000 square meters. This reflected in the question answer session when we saw people from world’s biggest online retailer, ethical & compliance standards setting companies, western buyers, Chinese

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entrepreneurs, manufacturers from different countries were present. Everybody is aware of the opportunities in Bangladesh which has an enormous youth population poised with national development programs to become a sustainable source. Many started to call it as the next China for the clothing industry. Trends and new opportunities for Bangladesh can be roughly divided in three broad segments for Bangladesh as long as the whole panel discussion had been designed- namely, apparel, fabric, and green factories. Robotics is threating the cheap promotional items’ market: Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter next to China. In quantities T-shirt is the biggest exporter and in value trouser in the biggest exporter from Bangladesh. T-shirt is a product which is now-a-days used as underwear, nightwear, leisurewear, sportswear, or even formalwear with an addition of Polo collar. Bangladesh is the most attractive destination in this category for its cheap price. One of the biggest markets for this is promotional customers all over the world. They just buy a T-shirt or Polo shirt without any print, embroidery, or any other embellishment. This market could experience its biggest threat with the advent of robotic manufacturing of T-shirt. We learnt that Adidas has made a plant in USA which could make 8 million pieces of T-shirts a day without the help of human workers. If this is successful Bangladesh would lose its biggest market at the hands of robots. Increase in use of fancy yarn for increasing value on t-shirt and polo-shirt T-shirt also has good demand for fashion use. Besides 100% Cotton or cotton blended T-shirts we also see the demand for fancy

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 2: Ashfaque Ahmed, Director, Promoda Textiles Ltd. and Promoda Apparels Ltd., the author of this article is delivering his keynote in Bangladesh seminar in Intertextile Shanghai.

fabrics in use. Customers to make it more attractive are using SIRO, Grandile, Inject and other twisted yarns. The demand for mélanges has also increased. TC or CVC mélange has its inherent problem with pilling and that’s why cotton mélange and synthetic mélange such as Cation has grown in popularity. Polo market is as stable as always and the lack of growth is probably due to lack of innovation since Abercombe & Fitch had made with thick gathered plackets with heavy washes. Sportswear market is to grow significantly It is the time for Bangladesh to pay more attention in the area of sportswear. The development in the market for the synthetic fabric, specially, polyester, polyamide with channeled yarn, quick dry technology in circular knit fabric is satisfactory. The similar growth in the area of seamless and warp knitting and tricot fabric is also necessary. Some renowned factories have already taken this initiative to grab this ever expanding market. Remarkable development of Denim and Jeanswear manufacturing The reason for making a good progress in the trouser category

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is the remarkable development of Denim and Jeanswear manufacturing in our country. In early 90’s where we did not have a single denim factory and at the end of 2010 we have more than 30 state of the art denim mills supplying fabrics for fast fashion retailers such as H&M, Inditex Group, Primark, River Islands, OVS, etc. Thanks to all those new denim mills. The demand for this will increase more and more with narrower lead time. Heavy ragged washes, crazy acid washes, towel bleached seemed to have lost market against rinsed wash, semibleach, enzyme washed with localized blasting and grinding. More investment needed in nondenims Non denim trouser is also a big group but we are still dependent on Chinese mills. We need more mills of such non-denim twill, canvas because of closing down of similar mills in China. Otherwise, soon we are going to lose this market to India and Pakistan. We still lack sufficient formal trouser factories in our country. It is true that there is no big demand for this in western market except for blazers. But we must be aware of the new market in Japan, Korea, China where there is a big demand for this category and many of us do

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not know that we are privileged with duty free quota free access in those countries. Noticeable movement from formal to casual shirts The woven shirt factories have as always good demand to the retailers. The demand for the formal shirt has been diminishing but those are being replaced by casual shirts. We have seen noticeable movement from formal to casual shirts as customers are ordering huge quantity of printed denim shirt, printed viscose shirt, etc. Big change in knitwear products The knitwear industry has experienced a technical change with the Shima Seiki knitting machines (also Chinese version of similar machines) replacing the manual machines. Factory owners have gone for this change in order to avoid labour unrest. After doing so they are happy with the peaceful manufacturing environment and also getting good productivity which is competitive with the existing cost of making. At the same time these machines are capable of making designs with a little added cost. Therefore, more value added items are now being placed in Bangladesh with more fancy yarn types, such as, lambswool and its blends, space dyed, twisted, etc. Few years back we would think knitwear orders means typical acrylics, cotton, and their blends in jersey knits at a very cheap price. It is a positive breakthrough for our knitwear industry. The global warming has brought lots of changes in the knitwear industry. In last ten years we have seen the increase of lighter gauge orders. 3gg, 5gg, and 7gg orders were reducing. But this year we have seen Inditex Group has designed lots of their outerwear in courser gauges. This could also be another positive change and may last for some time.

More and more into the fashion items We just discussed the trends of apparel and fabrics. We all know that Bangladesh is the attractive hub for low to medium priced apparel products. In other words, those are actually basic products for the retailers. We do a little from their trendy collection. Hence the production in our country does not fully reflect the current fashion trend. We are now moving more and more into the fashion items. We should be able to adopt this change for our survival. We have to understand that those will eventually go to

There has always been an issue with Bangladesh- lack of skill in 80’s, child labor in 90’s, hazardous chemical, ethical & social audits in 2000, OHS (occupational health and safety) and post MFA uncertainties’ in 2005, factory fire and infrastructural issues in 201213, etc. A ‘Green Factory’ is seen as owner’s solution to all these solution with future trend to fight against carbon footage, build a supply chain with sustainability at its core.

the new countries, like, Ethiopia, Myanmar, etc. and we need to fight for our share of the fashion products. Growth of environmentally friendly factories Another trend we can see in our fashion industry is the growth of environmentally friendly factories. The most popular certification prevailing here is USGBC (United States Green Building Council) approved LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification. As per unofficial data, there are currently thirty of such approved factories in Bangladesh, eighty

are undergoing processing, and about two hundred and eighty filed application. A green building requires extra cost and also may require extra maintenance cost. Then what are our factory owners running after? Commentators think that a ‘Green Building’ will be environmentally safe, offers ethical jobs, adopts lean production process by which productivity can be increased, and most importantly the augmented cost for green features can be seen as investments and can be amortized against cost saving from the operating cost for the building. There has always been an issue with Bangladesh- lack of skill in 80’s, child labor in 90’s, hazardous chemical, ethical & social audits in 2000, OHS (occupational health and safety) and post MFA uncertainties’ in 2005, factory fire and infrastructural issues in 2012-13, etc. A ‘Green Factory’ is seen as owner’s solution to all these solution with future trend to fight against carbon footage, build a supply chain with sustainability at its core. These are interesting changes being done in our apparel and textile industry. Intertextile was an ideal platform to talk about these positive changes, our development in skill set, and getting ready for the ever evolving fashion market. All the panel speakers went there by themselves as the ambassador for their country. GOB and BGMEA has a lot to contribute here by participating, branding Bangladesh, informing buyers about Bangladesh, attract investors for FDI, etc. We have seen such initiatives from Japan, Korea, Vietnam, and Myanmar. It is never too late for anything to start today.

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H&M and Bangladesh, a journey with love, passion and future Special Correspondent As a part of Textile Today’s activities in brand and business promotion of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry, it has organized a seminar in National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai in concurrent with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric Exhibition 2017 on 11th October 2017. The topic was ‘Trends and New Opportunities in Bangladesh’. The seminar depicted that Bangladesh has a lot more to offer in the changed global trade environment. Discussants in the seminar focused on major trends in textile value chain and also focused on the product trends to summerize that with its core competences Bangladesh is in the right position to contribute more to the global apparel and fashion industry. Umar Faruk Chowdhury, Global Wool, Leather & Viscose Material Supply Chain Responsible, H&M, Ashfaque Ahmed, Director, Promoda Textiles Ltd. and Promoda Apparels Ltd., Md. Hasan Kajmir Mahmud, Director, Southwest Composite Ltd. and Qtex Sourcing and Saiful Islam Sumon, Director (Sales & Marketing), Huetech Yarn Ltd. were among the keynote speakers and panel discussants in the seminar. Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Textile Today was moderating the seminar.

Figure 1: Umar Faruk Chowdhury, Global Wool, Leather & Viscose Material Supply Chain Responsible, H&M, speaking in Textile Today seminar in Intertextile Shanghai.

Mr. Chowdhury from H&M highlighted Bangladesh’s importance for H&M’s global sourcing and mentioned that ‘H&M Group & Bangladesh’s journey is progressing with Love, Passion & Future’. He also explained H&M’s business concept ‘Fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way’. And mentioned that because of the ‘Openness, resilience and readiness to accept improvement suggestions’ of the Bangladeshi entrepreneur and people the country has become a great contributor in H&M business concept. Mr. Chowdhury further explained how H&M has become ‘leading

global fashion company’ after its inception in 1947. Today H&M stores are present in 68 markets with more than 4,600 stores worldwide. Its online presence is also increasing significantly covering 41 markets in the world. H&M secured sales of 223 billion SEK (including VAT) in the last accounting year and made a profit of 18.6 billion SEK (after tax). H&M is now employing more than 161,000 employees worldwide. Umar introduced 8 independent brands within the H&M group and mentioned that all of them have their own identity. The brands are H&M, COS, WEEKDAY, CHEAP MONDAY, MONKI, H&M Home, & Other Stories, ARKET.

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Strong H&M presence in Bangladesh

Less import more in-house:

Mr. Chowdhury informed that H&M started its Bangladesh sourcing operation in the eighties and today has a strong presence in Bangladesh. H&M is not only one of the largest importers of Bangladeshi apparels also contributes in improving apparel manufacturing and corresponding businesses in Bangladesh. Different H&M activities are helping Bangladeshi companies becoming more resource efficient, safe and sustainable. Over the years Bangladesh textile manufacturers has molded them with H&M business concept and could merge them well within H&M culture and vision. And so Bangladesh has become one of the most important producers of H&M products in the world. In his keynote Mr. Chowdhury explained below trends: Digitalization: With the change in consumer behavior particularly in the youth population use of digital sales is to increase further. By the advent of sophisticated e-commerce and online tools customers will be able to simulate the fashion more accurately online. Use of big data is to bring new face of competition in the fashion fraternity. And it’s going to bring a major change in global textile value chain. Fashion, speed & lead time: Because of the changes in the purchasing behavior fashion is becoming faster and customers are asking more customization. When life as a whole is becoming faster and faster the Fast Fashion brands are under pressure changing their fashion accordingly. And so this trend is pushing the production and transportation lead time. And naturally this will have huge impact in textile value chain.

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The fashion brands when seeking less and less lead time, time and process required for completing an import is putting a big question. As per the trend textile and other input material manufacturers have to come further close to the apparel makers. And apparel makers need to come closer to the consumer. Consumer demand and tastes have to be transferred to the apparel maker and finisher very fast and so they need fabric, accessories, dyeing finishing accordingly. And this may require re-shoring of many textile manufacturing units. Expansion, collaboration & joint venture: To cope up with the current and future challenges expansion, collaboration and joint ventures would be the right approach. Fiber, yarn and fabric manufacturing has to come closer to the garment makers and the brands who are selling to the consumers also have to be in collaboration approach to the manufacturers. And this has been one of the successful approaches in Bangladesh. Due to the openness and flexibility of the Bangladeshi’ entrepreneurs some partnership and joint venture initiatives have been successfully done. In terms of expansion and market opportunities below are would open up huge opportunities in Bangladesh: Synthetic Wool Viscose Fancy Yarn Athleisure Hard Goods Major changes in technology: Automation and robotics are in huge advancement with the advent of artificial intelligence. This major technological

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inception in 1947 Present in 68 markets More than 4,600 stores Secured sales of 223 billion SEK (including VAT) in the last accounting year Profit of 18.6 billion SEK (after tax). more than 161,000 employees

innovation may change the game. More re-shoring and localization may happen. However once again this will speed up the value chain further. This would bring more flexibility to the consumers and so the manufacturing chain has to be more flexible and adaptable in nature. Bangladesh by culture being flexible and adaptable would require coping up with fast changes faster to cater global opportunities. Circular Fashion: As a global fashion company with committed customers and employees, H&M is a positive force on the development towards a more circular and inclusive fashion industry. It’s also about the planet, about people and about offering fashion for conscious customers. H&M and other leading brands are moving towards ‘Circular Fashion’ by strategy. This means innovative companies who can use the waste for recycling adding further value to resell will gain enormous business opportunities. It is a need of time Bangladesh open up itself to import used or recycled garment and fabric. Bangladesh may take the leadership in recycling huge solid waste of the western world to reprocess them into new value added textile material. 31

S m a r t Tex t i l e s

Bangladesh can focus on producing conductive textiles MM Uddin It is projected that the global conductive textiles market will reach at US$ 2.11 billion by 2021 at a CAGR of 15.6% (The Compound Annual Growth Rate) whereas it was only US$ 1.02 billion in 2016. The key users of conductive textiles are the military and the workers of defense sector. However, it is estimated that the popularity is low because of its high cost of finished products controlling the growth of the global conductive textiles market significantly. A conductive textile is a fabric, which can conduct electricity and it can be made with metal strands woven into the construction of the textile. There is also an interest in semiconducting textiles, made by impregnating normal textiles with carbon- or metalbased powders. Conductive textile has played a vital role in this fast growing market since 2015 because of its various end-use industries, such as fitness, sports, healthcare, medical science, military and defense. The military & defense segment is the largest user of conductive textiles all around the world. Functional textile-based materials equipped with nanotechnology and electronics play major role in the development of technologically advanced military uniforms and other handy products. The conductive textiles demand is increasing day by day because a soldier requires protection against extreme weather conditions, like heat, cold, wind, and rain; ballistic impact and nuclear, biological or chemical threats. Additionally, these textiles also find applications in parachutes, safety harnesses, ropes and tenting. Europe is anticipated to lead the global conductive textiles market around the world. The growth of European conductive textiles market is mainly driven by technological advancements in wearable technologies. The conductive textiles market in the Asia-Pacific region is expected to grow at the highest CAGR from 2016 to 2021. This growth is primarily attributed to the high demand for conductive textiles from the sports and fitness and

Figure 1: Conductive textiles can be used in different ways.

healthcare sectors in the Asia-Pacific region. Bangladesh is the second largest textile and apparel exporter all over the world after China, however, recently Bangladesh is facing several problems and losing its competitiveness in global market and industry experts are urging to develop value added product to survive. So Bangladesh can be a major conductive textile manufacturer, a value added product, focusing on nanotechnology development. Already Bangladesh has been producing functional jacket for sports brands like Decathlon, Nike, Puma, Adidas, luanvi etc. but for military and defense division, production is not begun yet.

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Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

Textile and garments manufacturers urge govt. to ensure efficient ports, stable power and gas prices to remain competitive in the global market Staff Correspondent Textile and garments manufacturers have urged the government to ensure efficient ports, stable prices of power and gas to help boost their businesses

along with long-term policy support to remain competitive in the global market. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters

Association (BGMEA) organized the roundtable discussion on October 4 in a city hotel. The participants discussed about the readymade garments sector’s (RMG) present situation and possible moves to improve while some of them also called for efficient functioning of all of the country’s ports for continued growth of apparel exports. Mohammed Nasir, BGMEA VicePresident (finance) presented a keynote paper and BGMEA president Siddiqur Rahman moderated the roundtable. At the keynote presentation, Mohammed Nasir showed the present situation and the way out for RMG sector.

Figure 1: Among others State Minister for Power Nasrul Hamid, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed and State Minister for Foreign Affairs Shahriar Alam attended in the BGMEA's roundtable discussion program.

BGMEA highlighted that, Bangladesh’s export earnings from the apparel industry, the lifeline of foreign currency earners, have seen only a 0.20% rise to $28.15 billion, which is the lowest on record in the last one and a half decades, in the justconcluded fiscal year.

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Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

Figure 2: Bangladesh RMG export earnings growth lowest in last 15 years ( %). (Source: EPB)

In this presentation, BGMEA showed the following main reasons behind the lower export growth in RMG Sector: Strong Bangladesh Taka against US$ Inefficiency of Chittagong port High price of power and gas Demand decrease in world market RMG downturn and increase of production cost

Figure 4: Asif Ibrahim, Newage Group Vice Chairman was delivering his speech.

The BGMEA presentation also mentioned that the growth of RMG exports is declining in most of the countries, including new markets. Markets

Growth

USA

-7.48

Germany

10.36

U.K

-6.17

“I agree that this has been passing through a critical time for different reasons. But I want to see this challenge as an opportunity”

Spain

0.79

France

2.94

Italy

5.52

-Centre for Policy Dialogue’s fellow Mustafizur Rahman

Canada

-5.22

Netherlands

23.47

Belgium

-9.84

Poland

16.85

Denmark

4,54

Sweden Czech Republic Ireland

Figure 3: Tapan Chowdhury, President, Bangladesh Textile Mills Association was delivering his Speech.

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12.750 -16.15 -22.07

Slovakia

4.84

Japan

-3.87

Australia

-8.53

China

14.76

Turkey

-17.15

Russia

52.27

Korea Republic

-11.46

India

-4,85

Mexico

-16.11

Brazil

-16.96

Chile

28.29

South Africa

-13.29

Table 1: The data is showing export growth situation in the main markets in FY2016-17 (%).

Tex t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

Bangladesh Textile Mills Association, BTMA President, Tapan Chowdhury said, “We want price predictability of electricity and gas so that we can plan for long periods for our business”. “Incentives to the primary textile sector would help it to supply more raw materials to the garment sector, which typically accounts for 82 percent of the export receipts”, he added. “Price stability is a big factor for business persons” said, Dr. Mohammad Tamim, Professor, Petroleum and Mineral Resources Engineering, BUET. He urged the government to make a final decision on whether the businesses would continue with their private captive power projects to run their factories or they will have to go for Grid Power connections. He also said, “Garments industry should invest more for the infrastructural development.” Newage Group Vice Chairman and former president DCCI, Asif

Mohammad Hossain, Director General of Power Cell, a technical arm of Power Division, Ministry of Power, Energy and Mineral Resources, urged the manufacturers to install latest technology and increase power use efficiency. “RMG manufacturers are working hard to face the challenges by introducing production engineering, technological upgrade etc. but it is not enough”, said Abdus Salam Murshedy, Managing Director of

“The government will not give any power connections to industries if they are not located in economic zones.”

Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed asked the Accord and Alliance, two foreign garment factory inspection agencies, to leave Bangladesh after their tenures end by June next year. The government might allow them at most six months' time extension to wrap up their ongoing activities. “The garment sector was hit by conspiracies spun by national and international players since exporters and the government announced a target to earn $50 billion from apparel exports by 2021”, he added. The state minister asked the manufacturers to increase contribution to the government exchequer while adding more value to their products. Abul Kalam Azad, Chief Coordinator for Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) Affairs in the Prime Minister's Office said, “Garments manufactures should invest more for promotion and Branding. Govt. works with BGMEA, BKMEA for skill development project especially in mid-level management in garments industry.”

-Nasrul Hamid, State Minister of the Ministry of Power, Energy and Mineral Resources.

Shahriar Alam, State Minister for foreign affairs; Nojibur Rahman, Chairman of the National Board of Revenue; and Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, President of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry, leaders from industries, energy, banks, financial institutions and professionals also delivered speech at the roundtable discussion program. Figure 5: Abdus Salam Murshedy, Managing Director of Envoy Group, former president of BGMEA was delivering his speech.

Ibrahim suggested promoting the improvement and remediation in the apparel sector safety the country has achieved after the Rana Plaza disaster. He also said that the government should provide fiscal and nonfiscal incentives for further development.

Envoy Group, former president of BGMEA. “In continuation with the existing policy support, the government should offer special incentives, including 5% cash incentives on the value of Freight on Board (FoB)”, he added. Addressing the roundtable,

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Volume 10, Issue 10

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“Smart dyeing & finishing CHTC FONG'S innovations” to be showcased at Shanghaitex 2017 CHTC Fong’s has been committed to the development and manufacturing of dyeing and finishing equipment for more than 50 years. In the past decades, CHTC Fong’s devoted to the development of energy-saving and emission reduction machines and now it becomes the basic conditions for dyeing factories. Today we live in a digital era, though in the traditional textile industry, CHTC Fong’s has been with the times. Together with its well-known brands: Fong’s, Monforts Fong’s,

Xorella, Goller, THEN, FWT and Monforts, CHTC Fong’s dedicated in the development of Smart Dyeing & Finishing and join with the customers to build the intelligent dyeing factory.The CHTC FONG’S Group is proud to present the “one-stop” sustainable solution in dyeing and finishing range of “pre-treatment, dyeing, post-treatment and waste water treatment” at Shanghai Tex 2017 in Hall W5, A11 and yarn conditioning and heat setting in Hall E1, B70, Shanghai New International Expo Center, China from Nov 27th to Nov 30th. We are looking forward for your visits. Exhibits Preview: FONG’S DYECOWIN: Application: Most knitted and woven synthetic fabrics in polyester, nylon and their blends with or without spandex. DYECOWIN is the revolutionary high temperature dyeing machine setting new standards for the industry. It is integrated with the cutting-edge patented technologies to cut down the liquor ratio and

High Temperature Dyeing Machine

to enhance the productivity of the dyeing processes. 1. Reduce Production Cost: DYECOWIN is a major breakthrough in the long tube machine operating with a much lower running liquor ratio as low as 1:5. The patented fluid distributor at the rear of the machine can effectively adjust the distribution of dyeing liquor according to different fabric types, ensuring an organized fabric stacking pattern. 2. O ptimize the Dyeing Quality: The winchless design can overcome the tangling problem on

the conventional dyeing machines. The fabric surface defects such as scratch marks and light spots caused by unsynchronized motion between nozzle and winch can so be avoided. The patented “CONJET” nozzle technology can ensure high quality of finished products by enabling automatic and precise adjustments of flow volume and nozzle pressure. 3. E nhance Productivity and Efficiency: The rectangular fabric transportation pipe allows fabric to have free relaxation and run smoothly along the channel, thus reducing crease marks effectively. This design also favors open width dyeing so as to simplify the production process. The patented stainless steel storage chamber is capable of increasing the loading capacity, combining with the use of “CONJET” nozzle, sensitive fabric can be run smoothly without scratching and snapping. The surface quality of fabric is assured with minimized cycle time.

Aerodynamic High Temperature Dyeing Machine

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Advertorial

4. FC30EX Program Controller: Our latest generation program controller – FC30EX can integrate with our Viewtex and THEN-TDS central computer system, providing a comprehensive control management. THEN AIRFLOW AIRJETWIN CHTC FONG’S has always been listening to our customer and striving to satisfy the market needs. AIRJETWIN high temperature airflow dyeing machine, our latest generation of dyeing equipment, is now being offered to fulfill the various requirements of dyeing process nowadays. Through finite element analysis FEA), the airflow and water flow situation is well-analyzed for design optimization. In addition, by combining different THEN’S and FONG’S product advantages, the entire performance is further enhanced through a holistic design integration. 1. Single-Blower for Multi-Tube Design By utilizing single blower with frequency inverter and optimizing pipe network design, the air volumetric flow rate of each tube is evenly distributed.

1. By optimizing fabric’s running route. The optimized fabric’s running route and the increased cladding intensity of the driven rollers and driven drums can keep the speed of the running fabric in accord with the speed of driven rollers and driven drums, stabilize the processing conditions for fabric in the washing compartment and enhance the accuracy of synchronization so as to facilitate the minimization the running tension of fabric. 2. B y the specially-designed rotor being installed on the driven drum (perforated). The rationale behind is that when the range is running, the rotor can rotates at different speeds under liquor and the high-speed water stirring of rotor can result in low pressure and thus achieving the suction effect of the running fabric. As a result of this, the problem of fabric-slipping can be avoided and the lower running tension can be resulted. The new generation of GOLLER high efficiency washing compartment - SINTENSA CYCLONE TANDEM is an innovation to the typical washing compartment in large size and in large volume, which can indeed guarantee energy-saving, emission reduction and production costs-saving and make the open-width washing process for knitted fabric more smooth and efficient. GOLLER EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL High Performance Washing Compartment: GOLLER EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL is a newlydesigned washing compartment which maximizes the flexibility in applications and brings the washing experiences to a brand new level.

High Efficiency Washing Compartment

2. Integrating Nozzle System By adjusting various combinations of multiple spraying nozzle and sprayers, the best dyeing performance of a huge variety of fabrics can be achieved. 3. XY Internal Plaiter Fabric is capable of being two-way (horizontal and vertical) plaited inside the vessel to organize the fabric stacking Pattern inside the storage chamber. It allows the smooth fabric lifting, enhancing the fabric lifting speed and reducing fabric tangling in the chamber.

1. B y minimizing the occurrence of curling edge and crease marks EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL is designed particularly for Woven bottom weight and denim with high content of elastic weft processing. The ingenious way of putting the 2 rows of middle support rollers between the row of top rollers and the row of bottom rollers of EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL has substantially shortened the free fabric path in between and thus minimizing the occurrence of curling edge and crease marks. A higher washing efficiency can also be achieved since the extra 2 rows of middle support rollers provide

4. Overhead Sprinkler System Effective cleaning is provided through purging to rinse the kier head, ensure no residue color is left. GOLLER SINTENSA CYCLONE TANDEM The newly-designed GOLLER washing compartment - SINTENSA CYCLONE TANDEM reduces fabric’s running tension by means of the following two points.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

High Efficiency Washing Compartment

Advertorial

more nips for fabrics during washing process. 2. B y enhancing the compatibility of EFFECTA with different units FFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL is designed E specifically for enhancing the compatibility of EFFECTA with different units. It applies the same design principle as the one of SINTENSA CYCLONE TANDEM by incorporating the modulardesign intermediated trough with squeezer into the washing compartment - EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL in this case. This modular design has further enhanced the compatibility of EFFECTA with the latest version of Sintensa washing compartment- SINTENSA CYCLONE TANDEM, Oxidator chemical application, swelling, shrinkage and washing compartment and Universa dwelling and washing compartment, etc. With the advancement of applications compatibility, EFFECTA MODUL ANTI-CURL not only complete Goller’s product portfolio but also enable Goller to be excelled in every continuous open-width washing occasion. MONFORTS FONG’S MONTEX 6500 AIR FILTRATION OMNI Stenter Frame: • Advanced Chamber German Design • Proven for Most Homogenous Temperature Distribution •O riginate from Monforts Germany developed technology Montex 6500 Air Filtration Omni (Abbreviation 6500 Omni), is based on the Montex 6500 stenter range in combination of the most advanced heat recovery and air filtration technology to evolve this stenter range into a more advanced environmental friendly machine. The heat recovery and air filtration device of this 6500 Omni stenter can filter the wax and oil from the exhausted air with high efficient but low energy consumption. The heat recovery is so high which could contribute the textile industry to achieve low carbon release target a step further. The modular design could allow different space requirement by different textile mills. Also this device run with automatic cleaning function controlled by PLC by running its nozzles along the bar over the top of the filtration units. This will minimize the daily maintenance to the machine. Twin Air: Monforts patented Twin-Air technology allows top and bottom airflow to be regulated separately. When drying without marking and the most even temperature possible across the fabric. Also, it also could be equipped with Opti scan for Auto-Balance system. For this standard Nozzle System CAD Stream, it’s “Lay-on-Air” fabric supporting properties in air and with bulking effect through increased volume by its micro tumbler effect. Attractive cost/benefit ration with higher evaporation rates. It also provides

continuous fabric support even at the chamber transition points. • CAD stream E, suitable to be used with nominal width 260cm or above, the nozzle width could be adjusted to nominal width to 180cm to adapt to narrow fabric width. • CAD stream Slot, combined round and slot nozzles, new slot nozzle design for high-pile and terry cloth fabrics. Also suitable for dyeing processes on the stenter. • Qualitex 750 Programmable logic process controller (PLC). Expandable and adaptable for practically all tasks arising in modern textile finishing. It has Programmable control functions, Operation of the range via panels along the machine, Storage of set-up data sets, Integration of setting values for measuring and control devices, Batch management, Network interfacing, Automatic nozzle pressure control, Prepared for teleservice, Maintenance and two-loop system via touch panels. This system also run with our developed monformatic which is control system for technology in combination of treatment processes (drying and heat-setting) to achieve exact maintenance of the dwell time. When the heat-setting point is reached, the fan speed is automatically adjusted. A further contribution to greater cost-effectiveness. Its function including measurement of the heat absorption of each fabric from the circulation air, determination of exact heat-setting times even with varying parameters such as deviating initial moisture content or reduced circulating air due to clogged filters or fan failure. Besides, the exact determination of the heat-setting point is the reliable basis for optimum speed control and thus for cost-effective machine utilization and optimum exhaust air conditions at all times. The payback is energy consumption being under control which always knows the right heat-setting point. This could eliminate the need for allowances and avoid the risk of insufficient heat-setting. Besides, the system could run with self-developed central processing control software “Q-soft”. This software is for production planning and documentation with a central interface. All process data can be stored in a standardized database (ODBC=Open Data Base Connectivity) where all set points and actual values are filed with read and write access for set points. Three levels of networking interfacing are possible: 1) Interfacing to your network 2) Output to a PC with graphic presentation (Monforlogic) 3) I nterfacing with a process control system to include machines from other manufacturers as well For more information please contact jauhl@fongs.com

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

C a m p u s To d a y

75 percent job related knowledge is absent in course curriculum, says BUTEX VC BUTEX Correspondent The institution of Textile Engineers & Technologists (ITET) organized a day long training on “Essential skills of workplace’’ that was implemented by Bangladesh-Japan training institute (BJTI) on 21 October at BUTEX Auditorium. This program was powered by Southwest Composite Limited, Silken Sewing Ltd and Sanjana Fabrics Ltd in association with BUTEX Career Club. Rupak M Nasrullah Zaidi, Trainer, Consultant & HR practitioner, DGM-HR of Power Grid Company of Bangladesh was the keynote speaker of the program. Mr. Zaidi explained different topics with attractive videos helping participants to realize the real scenario of skills needed for fresh graduates who will enter the textile job market in near future. Topics were interpersonal skill, communication skill, characteristics of professional, time management, stress management, writing effective e-mails, SWOT analysis of students, factors for success in the corporate world, interpersonal relationship model etc. He said, “Never drive you by emotional professionalism, try to be more realistic and maintain professional etiquettes. You have to be effective team player and practice effective time management in your life to become a successful person.” President of ITET Shafiqur Rahman said, “For the first time ITET has arranged a new type of seminar to create new generation textile engineers. I believe that new generation textile engineers will be successful to lead the textile sector with minimal environmental pollution in the field of textile production.” He advised the students to learn new books for acquiring the arena of knowledge. Vice Chancellor of BUTEX Prof Engr. Masud

Figure 1: Vice Chancellor of BUTEX Prof. Engr. Masud Ahmed was speaking in the seminar.

Ahmed said, “We provide only twenty five percent knowledge towards students that are required for student’s job life. Seventy five percent job related knowledge is absent in our course curriculum. We are bagging a lot of problems in the field of procurement and marketing because of poor communication skill in English whereas textile engineers are failed to negotiate foreign buyers effectively. To mitigate the scenario and create enlightened textile engineers, soft skill is needed for textile engineers to lead the future textile world.” Senior vice president of ITET Salim Reza said, “You are proud to be a BUTEXian. Know yourself and try to be a positive thinker. Gather knowledge and quit up from job switching mentality, a bright future is waiting for you.” Vice president of ITET and managing director of Southwest Composite Ltd Shamim Rahman said, “You have to define your respective area where you are fit for work. Never start your career without any clear conception about the sector. That’s a common affair in our textile sector that people start their

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Figure 2: A good number of students participated in the seminar.

career where they are not suitable for working. To attain higher position in textile sector, you should get out from this types of mentality.” “As a BUTEXian, you can easily get a job in textile sector. So, prepare yourself and gather knowledge to lead the future textile sector of Bangladesh. I believe that huge foreign textile expertizes will be replaced by skilled textile professionals that will save our national currency”, He added. Director of Silken Sewing Ltd, Saiful Islam khan shared his entrepreneurship journey with the students. He said,“My father had his own RMG business that helped me to observe textile sector spontaneously. At the eve of textile engineering, I finished Merchandizing diploma from BGMEA that got difference than other students. You should perform different type of courses that will introduce your career in your desired position.” “To be a future textile corporate leader and successful textile professional, soft skill is required for undergraduate students. Due to inadequate communication skill and presentation skill as well as leadership skill, we face a lot of problems in field of marketing, merchandizing in the pace with other graduates of other university”, one of the participants of the seminar opined. Co Chairman of Bangladesh AOTS Alumni Society (BASS) & Assistant Proctor of BUTEX, Piash Shakirul Islam delivered their valuable speech towards the students. Head of Dyes and chemical Engineering, Professor Dr. Mohammad Forhad Hossain, Moderator of BUTEX Career Club and Provost of Sayed Nazrul Islam Hall, Assistant Professor Md Arif Iqbal, President of Bangladesh Student League (BUTEX UNIT) were present in the program. The seminar is ended by the certificate distribution among the students by the distinguished guests.

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Research

Acquiring information from scientific literature BUTEX Correspondent A seminar on “Acquiring information from scientific literature” organized by BUTEX Business Club was held at BUTEX seminar room on 11 October where Assistant professor of Independent University, Adjunct Scientist of Biomedical Research Foundation, Dr. Mohammad Sorowar Hossain was the keynote speaker. Dr. Sorowar explained research methodology and effective documentation of any topic in research paper. He emphasized on avoiding plagiarism and proper citation with better literature review to prepare perfect thesis paper. He said, “You

have to focus on effective data mining procedure for collecting related data of your respective research areas. In your data mining and collection procedure, you should create a new folder and all related data will be saved in this folder that will save your time to search data, which improves your efficiency. For searching data, at first you take into consideration on Wikipedia for searching information. However, google scholar is also very helpful for us to find any kind of research paper perfectly.’’ He added, “Owing to being a developing country, we are facing a lot of problems in the

Figure 1: Participants posed for a group photo with the speakers.

field of quick access of different types of international journal in our country. To mitigate the scenario, you have to expand your network and connectivity with resource persons from home and abroad. Whereas, you can use SCI-Hub site for searching journal caused of availability of all types of scientific literature to solve your scarcity problem of searching journal in our country’s perspective. You should keep on your standpoint of your research to give a successful research outcome. Sometimes, people are far away from their respective standpoint of research topic and perform their research in other perceptive that will not come

Figure 2: Assistant Professor Dr. Abbas Uddin Shiyak (left) handed over crest to the keynote speaker Dr. Md. Sorowar Hossain (right).

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

R e s e a rc h

Figure 3: The seminar room was houseful with participants, most of them were BUTEX students.

better outcome. During their research period, you should be disciplined, hardworking mindset, wiling to face failure situation and perfect supervisor selection that makes your research successful”. Assistant Professor, Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering at BUTEX, Dr. Abbas Uddin Shiyak said, “Never be disappointed and never quit up in the beginning period of your research in higher studies. At the eve of your research, you must be more patient to acquire new knowledge and new terms and definition. After the passage of your time, you will be able to perform your research activities smoothly. You should not compare yourself with your colleagues who are working in production and corporate sector in terms of their earnings and life style at the time of your research. You have to have a great passion of performing research contentiously without the intension of earning money quickly.”

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He advised the undergraduate students to perform their project work sincerely that can create the possibility of publication in any international journal. “In order to ensure quality education in the pace with global demand, sector based research is mandatory for any country. In spite of having large RMG markets, we are bagging lot of problems in the field of product diversification and value adding product due to improper research mindset and research facilities. As far as we know, china is shifting from producing low value added products to high value added products. It’s time for us to be focused on product diversification to attain our 50 billion USD RMG export earnings by means of adequate research in textile sector”, one of the participant of seminar opined. This seminar was finished following by proactive and constructive question and answer session between guests and students.

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In Focus

The psychology of color and its impact on our life style Rifat Tabassum Shuchi Could color of our shirts, ties or dresses have any effect in our daily performance, mood and emotional health? Something perceived as so minor actually has a major effect on these mentioned areas of our life. In 2005, a study discovered that athletes in Boxing, Tae Kwon Do, and Wrestling in the 2004 Olympic Games won more often when wearing red outfits than when wearing blue (16 of 21 rounds, and 19 of 29 weight classes). Why is this happening? Does wearing the red color make the athletes more physically and emotionally stable than their opponents? Ever given a thought to your surroundings about which colors they comprised of? When you are in a dull, sullen mood and fail to cheer up even if you have tried all the ways out like meditation, extra hour of sleep etc. You may look out to the color of outfits you wear and the surroundings you belong to. As the color consultant Mary Ellen Lapp, author of ‘The Color of Success’

says, “Different clothing colors exude different feelings and meanings, and colors can affect — and reflect — your mood”. It means that the colors you wear do not only communicate your personality but also elicit the feelings of you and the people around you. The same performance advantages of wearing red outfits seen in 2004 Olympic Games did not come out in 2008 Olympic Games. What can be the probable

reason? Chromotherapy says why we are psychologically influenced in certain ways by certain colors. Chromotherapy is the science of using colors to adjust body vibrations to frequencies that result in health and harmony. Each color possesses frequencies of a specific vibration, and each vibration is related to different physical symptoms. Now, at this point, what do you choose from your wardrobe considering the mood and the

Figure 2: Mood change depends on color choice

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

In Focus

Infographs courtesy : Natalie Atterbury (www.positivebranding.co.uk)

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

In Focus

Infographs courtesy : Natalie Atterbury (www.positivebranding.co.uk)

upcoming event you are going to attend? There are days you just simply want to feel calm and relaxed, choose the color that make you feel calm. If you want to feel energized, rules go for the same, you try out the color that chill you up. We can easily find out the scientific reason from the theories of Isaac Newton that color has everything to do with light and how our brains and eyes process and perceive this light. What does blue color remind you of? Confidence and veraciousness? What does the pink remind you of? You may wonder after hearing that the blue and pink color had been unveiled in women hockey testfield in 2012 by Olympic team as they provide a good contrast to the visibility than the traditional color green as a surface. As you can see, researchers have found that, 85% communication is non-verbal and the saying goes “You never get a second chance to make a first impression” so the color you choose to wear at work does really matter a lot not only for your mood but also for your colleagues as they perceive you. Career Builder and Harris Interactive published a survey after polling the hiring managers and human resource professionals across industries and companies, asking a simple question, “What’s the best color to wear to a job interview?” Blue was the most recommended color, while orange came in the last. According to them, black color connotes sophistication and leadership whereas gray color shows your analytical ability and is less dominating than black color. So you can save the black color for the management position. You can take the example of the brands Chanel and Yves Saint Lauren who are the leaders in their industry. What are these

brands communicating by using black? Gray color implies that you are self-sufficient and can think on your own.Red is a powerful color which shows emotions. Red is linked with energy, passion, desire, courage, excitement and aggression. You can use it as an accent color to add a touch of emotion to your neutral outfit such as accessories. White color symbolizes that you are organized and detail oriented but you may also be considered as dull to the interviewers. So you can opt for a white blazer or a dress paired with white button to use the shade to your advantage. You can come off as simple andoldfashioned for the forward-thinking and moderns postif you wear Brown color. Why do United Parcel Service workers wear only brown? Because it shows reliability and safety. On the other hand, colors that signal more creativity, like yellow, purple, orange and green, may be too loud for an interview. If you are a creative professional preparing yourself for meetings and networking events, these color may work well for you.You can also wear these color for happy hour gatherings. You will not find the same color between the wedding dresses of Asian and American-European brides. In western cultures, the traditional color for mourning is black whether it is white in Asian cultures. Though the symbol of color varies from culture to culture, custom to custom in some cases, but there are some standard meanings for colors mentioned above when it comes to office wear and daily outfit.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Mul�-Ply Cu�ng Machine

Mul�-Ply Cu�ng with Superior Cost Performance Having established a reputa�on for high-eﬃciency, produc�vity and quality, SHIMASEIKI's P-CAM® mul�-ply computerized cu�ng machine (NC cu�ng machine) lineup now features new versions with emphasis on cost-performance. P-CAM®183A and P-CAM®223A feature increased cu�ng-head clearance to enable easier

loading of mul�-ply fabric before suc�on, and maximum fabric cu�ng height upon suc�on increases from 75 to 80 millimeters. A renewed knife mechanism yields higher strength and durability. Revised suc�on minimizes air leakage, and a new electrically controlled presser foot provides ideal press amount by fabric type for stable cu�ng. A new cu�ng head

features lower vibra�on and noise for improving the work environment. New func�ons such as a one- touch drill a�achment enhance operability and ease of maintenance. With an emphasis on produc�vity and cost-performance, P-CAM®183A/223A are the perfect choice for ﬂexible high-volume produc�on in a new era of global apparel produc�on.

Even More Eﬀec�ve Virtual Sampling with 3D Drawing from years of experience and know-how a world leader in fashion technology, SHIMA SEIKI has created a design system that goes far beyond the sample pa�erning and programming available from the compe��on. With powerful proprietary hardware and industry-speciﬁc so�ware for fashion design, clothing design and apparel design developed in-house, no other design system even comes close to SDS-ONE APEX3.

Suppor�ng high-quality tex�le simula�ons SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS-ONE APEX3 can be used to design tex�le pa�erns including stripes and check pa�erns, dobby pa�erns, mul�ple weaves and jacquard pa�erns. SDS-ONE APEX3 oﬀers comprehensive support for everything from tex�le product planning, pa�ern produc�on and evalua�on of color ways to output of instruc�on sheets, crea�on of product images and sales promo�on. SDS-ONE APEX3 is an op�onal design system for all types of apparel products including uniforms, shirts and bo�oms, as well as for such users as tex�le converters, tex�le manufacturers, planning companies, OEM and ODM manufacturers, trade ﬁrms, yarn traders, interior designers, towel manufacturers and sundry manufacturers.

Continuous Improvement

Importance of 5S in making the earth a better place Md. Sahabul Islam Textile Engineering, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder CEO, Dutch Lube Company Ltd.

Present condition of earth is terrible; people are doing their business and chasing profit more and more without considering anything else. First of all they are doing their business with natural raw materials & very much conscious about the product quality, marketing etc. But companies or business organizations think little about the dumping of these raw materials after the end of its purpose in his/her place. Day by day, the earth is going to be a hell through the activities of human being. Not only developing countries but also developed countries are responsible for this situation. Lacks of proper application of law, abuse of power, unaware people are some reasons those could be mentioned here. But it is the high time to think about the earth, we & our next generations. 5S is a foundation of lean management system for greater productivity as well as minimizing wastage & increase occupational health & safety. 5S is equally

Bangladesh Textile Today |

applicable to personal life & family life. 5S also improves work environment along with quality

5S is a foundation of lean management system for greater productivity as well as minimizing wastage & increase occupational health & safety. 5S is equally applicable to personal life & family life. 5S also improves work environment along with quality & productivity enhancement. 5S is the name of an organization based on a method using a list of five Japanese words: seiri (sort), seiton (set in order), seiso (shine), seiketsu (standardize), and shitsuke (sustain). It is also known as the five pillars of a visual workplace.

& productivity enhancement. 5S is the name of an organization based on a method using a list of five Japanese words: seiri (sort), seiton (set in order), seiso (shine),

Volume 10, Issue 10

seiketsu (standardize), and shitsuke (sustain). It is also known as the five pillars of a visual workplace. Sort (Seiri): Remove or eliminate all unnecessary things from your workplace because it makes work easier for employee as well as it saves time, space, energyand increases the production. In an organization many people are involved in the process/operation; everybody should be trained first & committed to implement the 5S methodology. Generally necessary & unnecessary items are mixed; first you have to separate the unnecessary items. To speed up this process, you may start Red Label Campaign, put red sticker on the unnecessary items, afterward discard or remove from the workplace. You may introduce a rule for discarding, process owner most of the time thinks; he may use it or need it. In that case, check after 1 week or 1 month, is he use it / need it, if use or need, it is necessary, otherwise it is unnecessary. 5S is a journey, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Continuous Improvement

a schedule to keep it clean and shiny. You may introduce easy rules, for example, in production unit different types of Work In Progress (WIP) materials remain for short time, quantity vary time to time, different color’s basket / demarcation and a specific location for a specific WIP.

Before After Figure 1: Pictures of before & after 5S implementation

not enough to implement once. You should be in practice. Regular monitoring helps to implement 5S. Set in Order (Seiton): All necessary items should be arranged in such a row or label so that they can be found easily when it is necessary. 1st define

workplace. Keep all necessary things neat & clean, make the workplace in a place where sunlight can enter and air can circulate, as a result the worker feels relax to work & enjoy it. Cleaning should be a daily basis job; you have to do cleaning as a regular basis. It’s essential to

Sustain (Shitsuke): It is the habit of maintaining the above four steps and promising never return to your previous habit. That’s why everyone has to commit to perform the work daily or has to install necessary disciplines to avoid backsliding. To ensure sustainability, you may introduce weekly audit & publish the score. Organization may reward & appreciate the higher scorer for sustainable implementation of 5S. Ways of saving the earth by using 5S: Collect all types of removal or

Figure2: Bin to recycle waste materials

the location for specific object i.e. every items have a name & location. Label the object name in the location & you may keep a record of quantity. So that everybody should know the location as quantity as well as. You may use different coloring to make it worker friendly rules. After making the policy, demonstrate to all concern people to follow instruction. You can judge the Seiton status, how fast one can pick the specific items. Shine (Seiso): Clean your

maintain above 2S (Sort & set in order), if any deviation or abnormality found at the time of cleaning, immediately it should be rectified or corrected. Beginning of 5S implementation, daily basis you have to check, activities are on line with 5S methodology or not, if not immediately should be corrected & counseling should be done to concern people. Standardize (Seiketsu): It is the combination of sort, set in order and shine, making sure they stay as they require & employees make

unnecessary things in a bucket or a safe place and dump it in a designated place. Never discard wastage here & there. Propose figure 2 mentioned waste collection bin to facilitate recycle of waste materials. Use more natural or environmentally safe product or supplies. Use old rags or cloths to wipe because it can be cleaned or reused. Try to recycle your all recyclable thrash.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

D y i n g I n n ova t i o n

Conclusion: If this process of distroying the earth continues , Within few years the earth will become unlivable totally.It's our life and it's our earth.So it is high time we should protect the earth from this harmful situation. Take your decision, make your life and sustain earth with 5S practices. 5s is a way to protect the earth from dangers.

Figure3: Bin to recycle waste materials

To avoid re-printing and using extra paper, consider laminating frequently used papers and documents to protect from damage, and reuse at a later time. Mark or label necessary to unnecessary things and manage them by following above mentioned rules.

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Overall make your workplace shiny, neat & clean to save the earth. Because there is no galaxy that supports our life but earth. Scientists estimate that Earth is a home of about 300,000 plant species, over 600,000 species of fungi, and about ten million animal species. Earth is an invisible shield of life. As a man you should love the earth.

Reference: 1. https://en.wikipedia. org/wiki/5S_(methodology) 2. http://www.conserveenergy-future.com/currentenvironmental-issues.php 3. http://www.miraclemorning.com/ 4. https://books.google.com.bd/ books?id=evc6jaibNd8C&sitesec=buy&source=gbs_atb

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Industry Innovation

Huntsman unveils their latest innovations for sustainable growth of the textile industry Staff Correspondent Huntsman Textile Effects, one of the global leaders in developing sustainable, high performing processing chemicals, organized a customer seminar on 11 October titled ‘Sustainable Growth and Innovation in the Textile Industry’ jointly with its local agent, Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. in Dhaka. Bangladesh. The seminar attracted phenomenal crowd having more than 500 textile processers. Akther Hossain, Managing Director, SwissColours Bangladesh Ltd, said in his welcome speech that Huntsman Corporation is a publicly traded global manufacturer and marketer of differentiated chemicals with approximately $10 billion revenues in 2016. Our

chemical products are number one in the thousands and are sold worldwide to manufacturers serving a broad and diverse range of consumer and industrial end markets, he added. SwissColours Bangladesh Ltd has been the local agent for Huntsman Textile Effects from the very early days. Huntsman Textile Effects is the leading global provider of high quality dyes and chemicals to the textile and related industries with operations in more than 90 countries and six primary manufacturing facilities in six countries (China, Germany, India, Indonesia, Mexico and Thailand), commented Chuck Hirsch, VicePresident, Sales and Technical Resources, Huntsman Textile Effects, in his presentation.

“Creating a sustainable textile value chain is one of the top priorities in the textile industry. As one of the global leaders in addressing industry challenges with sustainable products and solutions meeting economic and ecological needs, Huntsman Textile Effects is committed and well positioned to help the industry address these challenges. Huntsman will continue to invest and collaborate with various stakeholders in Bangladesh to help the industry minimize their environmental footprint and to meet sustainability targets to compete in the global market.”, he added. Biswajit Banik, Country ManagerBangladesh, Huntsman Textile Effect played the Master of

Figure 1 : A team of Huntsman Corporation and SwissColours Bangladesh Ltd. in the customer seminar in Dhaka.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

In Focus

Figure 2: Holger Schlaefke, Global Marketing Manager (Home Textiles), Huntsman Textile Effect presented some key benefits his company has to offer to its Bangladesh customers.

Ceremonies role in the whole event and during his presence he also mentioned "Bangladesh is an important manufacturing country for global textile value chain and the textile and apparel contributes to 80% of export earnings for the country. Huntsman and Swiss Colours have been working closely with all the customers here in Bangladesh and always try to remain at the forefront of the business. Our efforts are always to bring innovative solutions to create sustainable industry." With new color palette AVITERA® SE is much more effective than before: Holger Schlaefke, and Oliver Gerlach, Global Marketing Manager, Huntsman Corporation highlighted different types of products. Among many other technologies, Avitera® series of dyestuffs from Huntsman has been well discussed in the seminar. Many of the participants have opined that the current series of Avitera® SE dyestuffs are well in position now to improve further the environmental impact of dyeing industries. From its inception Avitera has been discussed as a game changing technology the dyestuff industry has seen after long time. AVITERA® SE is a range of tri-reactive dyes that provide low temperature and low consumption processing for cellulosic fibres and blends. Huntsman’s proven solutions combining finest high exhaustion dyestuffs and high efficient chemicals are helping in reducing environment footprint of Bangladesh textile industry.

Holger Schlaefke mentioned that while in a conventional efficient dyeing process would require around 60 liters of water to dye per kg of fabric, Avitera® SE can do the same with only 30 liters of water. That means it is saving close to 50 percent of water consumption in compared to an existing efficient process. If we compare with a non-efficient process than the same savings will be much higher. Mr. Schlaefke also presented the new color palette of Avitera® SE series which showed that Huntsman continued extensive research and development on the series from its inception 2012 and now it has very strong and effective ranges of dyestuffs in the series. New color palette is offering less recipe cost, higher productivity and less environmental impact. The new benchmark of dyeing PES/CEL blends The event showcased Huntsman’s expertise in integrated solutions for the textile supply chain. An innovative solution for Polyester-Cellulosic Fibers (Cotton) two part dying has been presented in the seminar. A specific combination of AVITERA® SE series and TERASIL® W/WW dyestuffs can significantly reduce time, chemical, energy and water use for dyeing PC, CVC two part dyeing. Both polyester and cotton can be dyed in two baths without reduction clearing which will save number of baths. A case shared in the seminar showed 40% time savings, 50% water savings, 50% electricity and green house gas emission savings while using AVITERA® SE series and TERASIL® W/WW dyestuffs

I n d u s t r y I n n ova t i o n

in compared to traditional process including ‘Reduction Clearing’. TERASIL® TC is competitive, cutting-edge disperse dye range for polyester. Designed to offer outstanding economy and shade reproducibility for polyester, polyester/cotton, even microfiber and elastin blends. TERASIL® TC range benefits include good all round fastness performance, excellent stability to reduction, exceptional leveling properties, very good light fastness providing high shade durability, fast exhaustion at 130 degree Celsius and wide pH stability. Huntsman’s innovation is supporting major trends of the industry: Oliver Gerlach, Global Marketing Manager, HTE explained tremendous growth in Ath-leisure wear worldwide. He informed that sales of Ath-leisure wear were 270 billion USD in the year 2015, and the market is expanding very fast. He also presented Huntsman’s high-tech offerings for special finishes for Ath-leisure wear ranges. Holger Schlaefke covered another major trend of the sector, the digital printing industry. Digitalization is a major trend in the world facilitating more flexibility in design and now people are thinking about individual customization even. Mr. Schlaefke presented the advantages of Huntsman’s digital printing inks and related products and suggested how these products would help their customers to gain more orders from global brands. Huntsman dyes and chemicals have been serving the industry by complying all latest industry regulations namely ZDHC MRSL, Bluesign, GOTS, REACH etc. Huntsman not only comply them but also contributes in developing new environmental standards of

Figure 3: Experts from Huntsman Textile Effect suggested answers to the questions from the participants.

the world’s best clothing brands while increasing yield, improving productivity and reducing processing cost. Strong local team- more committed to serve individual customer needs: With a very strong local team Huntsman today is well poised to deliver more to its customers. The veteran Swiss Colours team and Huntsman’s long legacy the team now is a combination of young energetic but talented pool of engineers and experienced proven industry experts. In the question and answer session Huntsman’s Bangladesh Country Manager Biswajit Banik expressed his commitment to reach at the door of the customers for serving any sort of queries. At one stage in the seminar Professor Engr. Masud Ahmed, Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh University of Textiles, asked to recruit more textile engineers from Bangladesh at Huntsman Textile Effects who will be able to contribute more in Research & Development and also in market and product development. He also urged participating companies to invest more in Bangladesh in R&D.

The seminar was not only one sided presentation from Huntsman, it was also generating good participation from the audience. Number of veteran textile professionals, industry owners participated in the seminar. The question and answer session was idea provocative and experts from Huntsman suggested remedies to customer problems. Huntsman Textile Effects holds regular seminars and workshops and collaborates with textile mills and apparel manufacturers to adopt new technologies and processes that conserve resources, reduce waste and improve productivity. The company manufactures products for a variety of global industries, including chemicals, plastics, automotive, aviation, textiles, footwear, paints and coatings, construction, technology, agriculture, health care, detergent, personal care, furniture, appliances and packaging.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

Textile Talent Hunt inspires the new generation of textile engineers towards R&D NITER Correspondent

Figure 1: Prof. Dr. Mohammed Mizanur Rahman, Principal of NITER, was delivering his speech as the chief guest.

Bangladesh Textile Today organized Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18 two separate campus seminars titled "Electrify in Revealing Your Excellence" at National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research (NITER) and at BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) conference room on 8 October and 19 October 2017 respectively. The NITER seminar was in associated with Research and Industrial Relation (RIR) Wing NITER and BUFT seminar was supported by the Textile Club of the university. Prof. Mizanur Rahman, Principal, NITER thanked Textile today in his welcomed speech for arranging such an innovative and

research oriented TTH seminar at NITER. He said, "Textile Talent Hunt is a great initiative of Textile Today, this initiative will truly inspire our new generation of textile engineers towards professionalism and Research & Development (R&D) both. If we do not have R&D, we cannot offer value added product in our industry based market." He inspired all the students of NITER to participate TTH-2017-18 Competition. Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan was addressing huge crowd of TTH Campus Seminar at BUFT and urged all the students to take the opportunity to increase their network and knowledge through Textile Talent Hunt. He informed

that TTH has already put its great footprint in creating a research savvy innovation minded young generation. In both the seminars Editor and Publisher of Textile Today, Tareq Amin gave the key note speech. Tareq Amin discussed about different skills required for professional excellence such as personal skills, interpretation skills & leadership skills. He emphasized on goal setting for the students to succeed in life. He also drew attention to the importance of human capital transformation in parallel with technological transformation of the textile, apparel industry. He motivated the students to set vision through gathering knowledge.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Electrify in Revealing Your

Excellence

th Season

Presents

2017-18

Who can participate?

Student of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering who has completed at least one year or equivalent credits/semester of his undergraduate course can register to participate in the competition.

Registration deadline: November 30, 2017

Competition Flow: Written test

The Test will be of 100 marks for answering in the question paper and to be held in places at a same schedule.

Paper Submission

Viva Voce

Best twenty (20) paper participants will be called for an interview to the Judges

Best 50 students from written test will submit their paper (project work) to participate for the final part of the competition.

In Association with

Paper Presentation

Supported By

Forum Partner

Best five (5) participants will present their papers at TTH Grand Finale.

University Partner

Program Owned By :

Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd.

Registration link www.tth.textiletoday.com.bd/tth2017/registration

25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Phone : 0255093682, Mobile : 01775999837, Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd

www.facebook.com/mytextiletoday

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

Figure 2: Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor, BUFT shared the history of TTH and recalled how he saw talents groomed through the competition.

He said, “If you can develop yourself to deliver something or make yourself ready to serve something, then you don’t need to pursue job, rather job will pursue you.” Among others TTH Alumni member, Borhan Uddin Banna shared his experience in NITER seminar and told how that helped him to reach way ahead of

others. In the BUFT seminar Md. Palash Hossain, CEO of Power Play Communications delivered his speech. Palash was the first runners-up in TTH 2012. Another TTH Alumni Ayub Ali gave his speech. Ayub was the 2nd runners-up in TTH 2012 and now working as a teacher in BUFT. Textile Today team members and many teachers and students were present in the seminars.

After successful completion of five seasons of TTH , Bangladesh Textile Today has already launched its 6th Season of country’s first ever competition for textile, garments & fashion designing students, Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18 on 20 September 2017 at BUTEX Auditorium.

Figure 3: Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher of Textile Today delivering key note speeches in both seminars on "Electrify in Revealing Your Excellence".

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

DBL Group will set up 19 factories in Moulvibazar by 2021 Staff Correspondent Leading RMG exporter DBL Group has taken up a $1.2 billion investment plan to set up 19 factories inside Sreehatta economic zone in Moulvibazar of Sylhet by 2021. The company got 170 acres of land inside the state-owned zone from Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (Beza). It will build a spinning mill, a ceramics factory and industrial units to manufacture raw materials and finished products, such as integrated sportswear and apparel accessories, for domestic and export markets. “We could not grow as expected because of land, gas, electricity and other infrastructure constraints,” said DBL Group Managing Director Md Abdul Jabbar. “The new land will definitely boost the company's growth”, he added. With an annual export turnover of nearly $370 million, the business entity employs 30,000 people in 23 concerns, mostly in the apparel sector. The enterprise registered a 15 percent year-on-year growth in exports over the last couple of years and Mr. Jabbar expects to reach 25 percent through the expansion. Mr. Jabbar said that they were waiting for the final nod from BEZA before starting work from November to develop the area, including construction of effluent and water treatment plants. “We hope that

Figure: DBL group office.

two to three factories will come into operation by mid-2019”, he said. The business entity says the expansion would create jobs for about 39,000 people over the next four years. "BEZA has provided 25 acres to Great Wall Ceramic, 14 acres to garment exporter Palmal Group and three acres to a non-resident Bangladeshi based in the United Kingdom," said BEZA Executive Chairman Paban Chowdhury. DBL Group had earlier appealed to BEZA to allocate the whole 352 acres of land of the economic zone, including 112 acres of water bodies, to the group. It is worthy to mention that DBL group is one of the pioneer Bangladesh based companies who is setting up factories in abroad.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Kutumbita – empowering non-desk workforce Promotion of Social and Environmental Standards in the Industry (PSES), implemented by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH

The challenges Most of the workers in the ReadyMade Garments (RMG) sector of Bangladesh are non-desk employees. Thus, it is not always easy to bring this workforce on the same platform under the same communication network. In this regard, SQ Group has developed a Bangla mobile application for their workers named Kutumbita. Kutumbita is a mobile tele-phonic internal communication platform, which is all about the workers and employees engagement and communications. It aims to empower an entire workforce to interact, share and collaborate no matter where they are and what they do. The branding of the application is centred on its name ‘Kutumbita’, ‘Connection’, ‘Kin’ or ‘Kinship’ in Bangla. To start with, this factory immensely felt that the basic knowledge of using this mobile application is needed because if workers are not aware of how to use it then the purpose will not be 62

Figure 1: Workers are connected and getting benefits of tehnology.

served. Thus, they were looking for the professional support. Since this is an application targeting the shop floor worker, the primary challenge was the availability of the smart phone among the target group because most of our associates were bar phone user. Considering this fact we conducted a survey to find out

their average monthly mobile bill. Based on the findings we started exploring a telecom partner who can come up with a bundle pack (android handset + Talk time + Data) equivalent to the average monthly mobile spending of our associates. Finally Robi came up with the most competitive bundle offer within the average monthly mobile expenditure of our associates.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Since most of the shop floor workers are technologically challenged, initially it was a bit difficult for us to share the technical knowledge of the mobile devices and the kutumbita application with all of our associates and it was also difficult for them to adopt smart phone and use the application. However, our all-out effort with weekly training programs and engagement activities help them to adopt this positive change with a short span of time.

The Voice interface of the Kutumbita application enables users to have their opinions heard by weighing in corporate polls, posting grievances and raising civic issues to the management. Such as all workers of SQ Group can get access to a digital grievance management tool through which they can raise any kind of grievances without having any fear or hesitation. The grievance notification directly goes to the Head of Human Resources and Kutumbita admin.

The initiative SQ Group, in partnership with Robi Axiata Limited, has already provided 3,500 WE Brand smart phones to their workforce (both workers and employees) who want to voluntarily purchase these phones through a convenient instalment scheme.

their opinions through polls - such as “Do you feel there is gender based salary discrimination in our company?” The application has become a medium by which management can circulate any necessary news, conduct surveys and get instant feedback.

Key features of the mobile application interface of Kutumbita:

Advice:

Voice (Opinion, Grievances and Civic): The Voice interface of the Kutumbita application enables users to have their opinions heard by weighing in corporate polls, posting grievances and raising civic issues to the management. Such as all workers of SQ Group can get access to a digital grievance management tool through which they can raise any kind of grievances without having any fear or hesitation. The grievance notification directly goes to the Head of Human Resources and Kutumbita admin. The application can handle the grievance quickly and effectively . The grievances that have been received including unnecessary hawkers causing road blockade in front of the factory gate during lunch break, air pollution at the factory, and inappropriate aisle marking at the production floor etc. Kutumbita has also become a platform for workers to share

Bangladesh Textile Today |

basis, he/she can apply the leave without coming to the office on that very day. The worker just needs to submit a leave application through the device. The Works interface also plans to include a payroll management and tracking process for individual’s salaries and bank statements in the future.

The Advice interface of the application is related to rights, health and safety. Advice acts as an easily accessible handbook of workers’ rights and responsibilities, fire and safety regulations, health and hygiene practices.

The success

SQ Group wants to empower its workers by letting them know about their rights. Keeping that notion in mind, it circulates the Bangladesh Labour Law through the application.

Lessons learned

Works (leave, salary and alerts): The Works interface of the application refines routine tasks by simplifying the leave application process. In many cases it has been evident that, if a worker gets sick and not being able to come to the office on that day, it is considered as an absent day, since he/she is unable to inform about the sickness at the right time. However, by using this application, if someone gets sick or needs a leave for emergency

Volume 10, Issue 10

It is easy to use in the native language of Bangladesh, which supports to serve the purpose of getting the benefits, such as engaged and satisfied workforce as well as efficient management.

Throughout the implementation it has been evident that with proper approach we can change workers’ mind-sets towards new technological inclusion at any level of an apparel manufacturing organisation, which actually help the factory management to ensure an engaged workforce and allows the shop-floor associates to become more empowered. Way forward SQ Group has a roll out plan to reach all of their 13,000 workers and employees for the use of the Kutumbita mobile application. This factory would like to collaborate with regulatory

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

bodies, brands, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and other agencies to evolve this application as a common product for other interested factories for wider uptake in the sector as well. In future we would like to explore the opportunity to bring smart phone producers like Samsung, Huawei, mi, etc. as an implementation partner so that they offer handset at reduced price with monthly EMI facility. In terms of the kutumbita application feature, in the next version we are trying to make it more user-friendly.

Marks & Spencer tree plantation campaign at HAMS industrial campus Staff Correspondent

about climate change, Marks and Spencer is one of them.” Engr.Shafiqur advised to his management to be entrepreneur thinker and thanked M&S team for organizing the tree plantation program in his factory.

A leading international, multichannel retailer company Marks & Spencer has started tree plantation campaign as a part of their commitment to

About SQ Group SQ Group is one of the leading garment manufacturing companies of Bangladesh. Approx. 13,000 workers are currently working here. About PSES Promotion of Social and Environmental Standards in the Industry (PSES) is a joint project of the governments of Bangladesh and Germany, implemented by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, which works on behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), in partnership with the Bangladesh Government. The project is supporting Bangladesh’s garment, textile and leather sectors to increase compliance with national labour and environment laws and international standards to fulfil the commitment towards an inclusive workforce. PSES promotes best practices from the RMG industry, to raise awareness and encourage industrial players to replicate similar initiatives in the areas of social and environmental standards as well as inclusive skills development.

Figure 1: Marks and Spencer Country Head in Bangladesh, Shwapna Bhowmick planted tree at HAMS Group campus.

environmental responsibility at HAMS industrial campus, Sreepur, Gazipur on October 6 to create eco-friendly industry and enhancing beautification. The program titled “Tree Plantation Program 2017”, was organized by Marks and Spenser Bangladesh SO and HAMS Group. Shwapna Bhowmick, country head of Marks and Spencer in Bangladesh has inaugurated the tree plantation program by cutting cake and planting 100 trees in all units of HAMS group. “Marks & Spencer started business here in Bangladesh in 2004 with basic polo shirt and other basic products, but now the company is sourcing value-added products from Bangladesh”, said Shwapana Bhowmick. Now M&S imports 700 million US$ garments every year from Bangladesh.

Mr. Mahfuzur Rahman Mithu, General Manager, HR, Admin & Compliance, HAMS Group said, “Marks and Spencer is not only a brand, but also they work for worker safety development. Recently they have opened bKash management salary system for HAMS worker. ” He also informed that very soon HAMS group will set up a new bottom garments manufacturing project. Speakers from M&S informed that they work with five themes, climate change, waste minimization, sustainable raw materials, fair partnership and health. Mr. Mizanur Rahman, Senior Social Compliance Manager, Mr. Md. Sarwar Hossain, Asst. Social Compliance Manager, Marks & Spencer Bangladesh, Mr. Abu Sufian Chowdhury, Mr. Hasan Chowdhury, Mr. Habibur Rahman Mohon, Mr. Maruf Rahman, , Mr. K Noman Khusru, Executive Director, Mr. Kazi Mizanur Rahman, Head of Agriculture of HAMS Group, Engr. A.L.M Ziaul Haque, Managing Director, Universal Yarn Dyeing Ltd were also present at the tree plantation program.

She requested to all garments makers to plant more trees to make a sustainable industry. She also thanked Managing Director of Hams Group for arranging such a nice program. Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, Managing Director, HAMS Group said, “Everyone is concerned

Figure2: Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, Managing Director, HAMS Group handed over crest to, Shwapna Bhowmick, Country head of Marks and Spencer in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Green production methods save $4.67 million every year for DBL Group

Staff Correspondent DBL Group, one of the leading garment exporters in Bangladesh, embraced green methods in a big way and is now reaping the benefits. According to its Managing Director MA Jabbar, in 2013 and 2014, the company invested $2.4 million to upgrade its facilities, and got the returns within six months. At present, the company saves about $4.67 million from its lower consumption of water, dyes and energy and lower carbon emission. “We have been trying to save water and energy on all fronts, like harvesting rainwater, using less salt, recycling and reusing water, using rooftop solar panels in the factories,” said Jabbar. “The company will use environmentfriendly equipment in the upcoming projects”, he added. In 2010, the factory used 119 litres of water for washing a kilogram of fabric, but now it uses 55 litres. The company has also constructed a green building at Nayanpur in Gazipur, which got the LEED certification from the US Green Building Council. DBL will begin production in the LEED certified building from next month, where more than 7,000

workers will be employed. The embrace of green methods draws thanks to the International Finance Corporation's Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) programme that started in 2011 on a pilot basis. Under the PaCTprogramme, which was launched in 2013 on a full-fledged basis, garment and textile makers are advised to adopt modern technologies in factories to reduce water and energy consumption. The first phase of the PaCT programme, which ran from 2013 through to 2017, was implemented in 215 factories at a cost of $11 million. DBL was one of the apparel giants that had

“We took up the investment for two reasons -- out of our concern for the environment and to bring down our costs of production” - MA Jabbar,Managing Director, DBL Group

adopted the programme. Now, the company is participating in its second phase, which will build on the accomplishments of the first phase. Currently, DBL has 19 different textile and garment factories in different areas of the country and employs 30,000 workers.

Figure 2: MA Jabbar, Managing Director, DBL Group

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e s

Bangladesh should invest in ‘Nanotechnology’ to enter in ‘Technical Textiles’ production Md. Ashikur Rahman Khan The history of nanotechnology begun by the physicist Richard Feynman who identified potentiality of nanotechnology in December 1959.Now it is assumed that the next industrial revolution is right around the corner because of nanotechnology. Today when Bangladesh has a potential history of producing quality textile and apparel goods, the country should look for the opportunities of producing other value added products. Meanwhile the country has developed a good base in textile education. Numbers of Bangladeshi researchers are working abroad in different universities and companies, many of them on nanotechnology. Many of those researchers are willing to come back to Bangladesh with a mindset to help the country. If the government and private sector take initiative to invest in ‘Nanotechnology’ to produce different technical textiles and other textile support products, the existing workforce can come in to play. Nanotechnology overcomes the limitations of applying conventional method to impart certain properties to textile materials. There is no doubt that over the years, nanotechnology has penetrated into every area of the textile industry and its presence will continue to increase. 68

Table 1: Properties of nano materials used in textiles. Nano materials

Properties

Carbon black nanoparticles

Abrasion resistance Higher tensile strength Good chemical resistance Electrical Conducting

Carbon nanotubes

Exceptionally strong (100x tensile strength of steel) Lightweight Electrically conducting Thermally conducting

Metal oxide nanotubes

Photo catalytic Electrically conductive UV Protection Antimicrobial

Metal nanotubes

Antimicrobial Solar cells Aesthetic properties

Clay particles

Electrical resistance Chemical resistance Fire retardant UV shielding

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Te c h n i c a l Tex t i l e s

'foreign particles' can no longer be seen or felt. Day by day, the importance of nanotechnology in the textile sectors is increasing all over the world. The global technical textiles market was valued at nearly US$ 155 Billion in 2015. On back of strong demand, by 2020, the global technical textiles market is estimated to pull in US$ 193 Billion in revenues as per the Future Market Insights information. A major portion of these Technical Textiles products are using nanotechnology. China, India, Japan and many other countries already have taken necessary steps to give a new shape of their textile industry through nanotechnology. Asia Pacific is the largest market for technical textiles, both in terms of production and consumption. Thus, many textile-manufacturing Figure 1: Application of nanotechnology in textiles. companies are investing in R&D to increase the production of technical textiles. The Asia Pacific Nanotechnology at the molecular level can be used technical textile market is expected to continue its to develop desired textile characteristics, such as dominance of the global market through 2020. In high tensile strength, unique surface structure, soft 2015, Asia Pacific accounted for nearly 40% revenue hand, durability, water repellency, share of the global technical fire retardancy, antimicrobial textiles market. Researchers told that properties. The textile industry ‘Nanotechnology’ based has already been impacted by It is worthy to mention that China production of textiles and nanotechnology. has launched a comprehensive technical textiles won’t require program called “Double Incentive Application of nanotechnology in huge investment like the Scheme” for technical textiles. Textile: traditional textile companies Whereas India has also issued • Swimming suit require. The risk also will be relief packages for the promotion • UV protective Finish less as Bangladesh also has a of technical textiles. India, in next • Self-cleaning fabrics good local market. 170 million 5 years, will provide $170-$200 • Anti-static finishers people in Bangladesh are using million to promote technical • Wrinkle free cloth technical textiles and this trend textiles. And there is no doubt • Anti-bacterial finishes will increase day by day. Such that this wise step will give India industry will also produce a huge advantage to gain the Besides, in the smart clothes products which will be used market of technical textiles. the textile structures themselves as input materials to the other perform electronic or textile and allied industries. From this aspect, as a giant electric functions. Ideally, the exporter of textile products, both Nanoelectronic components will the government and industrialists be completely fused with the must take adequate step to sustain economic textile material, resulting in that textile and nongrowth, which is not possible without exploring new textile components cannot be differentiated and areas. Therefore, it is time to allocate resources and cope with the modern trend of nanotechnology in 40.00 textile to enhance and sustain the growth of our 36.03 35.00 economy. (US$ Bn.)

30.00 25.00 20.00

14.36

15.00 9.49

10.00 5.00 0.00

3.45

4.35

2001-02 2003-04 2007-08 2011-12 2016-17 Estimated*

Figure 4: Market size of Technical Textiles in India.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Researchers told that ‘Nanotechnology’ based production of textiles and technical textiles won’t require huge investment like the traditional textile companies require. The risk also will be less as Bangladesh also has a good local market. 170 million people in Bangladesh are using technical textiles and this trend will increase day by day. Such industry will also produce products which will be used as input materials to the other textile and allied industries.

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

‘Not my style’ mobile app can alert consumers to choose ethical apparel fashion brands Md Masudur Rahman

provided one of three ratings -SHOP, THINK or STOP. Brands that fall in the “SHOP” category share the most compliance information of their supply chain, while brands that receive a “STOP” rating are disclosing the least amount of compliance information, the least transparent about working conditions.

‘Not my style’ is a London based iPhone app that tells consumers about the transparency of their favorite fashion brands to make their ethical shopping decision. It helps the shoppers to get what they want. It also helps garments factory workers to know what they deserve. Now a day’s people want to see new fashion clothe weekly to the shelves of the shop. Therefore, brands have started focusing on cheap garments with short lead-time in sweatshops to meet their current demand. That introduces fast fashion.

The app has a GPS map with stores nearby and filters to allow for a customized screen by things like price, favorites, green ratings etc. With its seamless integration into social media allows users to take an action if they want to do more than shop.

According to the 'Not My Style', there are around 'Not My Style' rated 40 million garment over 100 UK high workers, most of street stores on their Figure 1: Showing how the app alerts consumers to choose them are women in consumer facing ethical apparel fashion brands the developing world. transparency and Everyday new brand, other stories with leading industry research like new style is wanted but it is about other top brands like G-STAR how the workers are treated the workers, supply chain and RAW, GAP, H&M, PRIMARK, in their supply chain 'Not My their choices. This all is possible UNIQLO and ZARA are ranked on Style' distills all this into a simple thorough 'Not my style' app. top and AMERICAN APPAREL, ranking, on a slick, stylish app DIESEL and VINCE are ranked that make you inform about your How the app works? among the least visible. choice and ensure your style When someone out of shopping & facing immediate choice,

matches. Each brand and retailer is

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Professional excellence is just one step forward. Join “Professional Proficiency Incubator (PPI) Workshops” and go ahead of all.

Sustainability Date & Time 21st November, 2017 5.30 PM - 9.00 PM

Fabrics for Merchandisers Date & Time 9th December, 2017 4.00 PM - 8.00 PM

Mentor’s Profile

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Textile Today 14 years of experience in research, consultancy & traning Mentor’s Profile

Meherul Islam DGM, Fabric Sourcing & Development, Kenpark Bangladesh

Other Workshops Problem Solving Career Planning and Opportunities RMG Entrepreneurship Denim Development Continual Improvement Textile Value Chain Relationship Marketing Compliance Management

Application of “lean manufacturing” in Rmg

Mentor’s Profile

Date & Time 25th November, 2017 5.30 PM - 9.00 PM

Marketing Merchendising

Iftekhar Aziz Abir Head of Operations FCI Group

Mentor’s Profile

Date & Time

Ashfaque Ahmed

10th December, 2017 4.00 PM - 8.00 PM

Textiles Ltd. M.Sc. (University of Manchester), MBA (IBA-University of Dhaka), B.Sc. Tex…

Director Operation, Promoda

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Transforming Human Capital

Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e s

More than 50% of global technical textiles market will be in Asia-Pacific Desk Report Day by day the consumptions of technical textile are increasing and it is going to make Asia-Pacific the world's largest market for technical textiles by the period, 2017-2027. It is seen that the global technical textile market is likely to be worth of US$260.3 billion by the end of 2027 considering a growth at a CAGR of 4.7%. The technical textiles available in the global market are indutech, mobiltech, oekotech, protech, geotech, agrotech, packtech, clothtech, hometech, buildtech, meditech, and sporttech. The meditech segment is projected to soar in the coming years because of its application in the areas of patient clothing and surgical equipment. It is expected likely to be worth US$20 billion by the end of 2027 as compared to US$12 billion in 2016. Between the period of 2017 and 2027 this segment is projected to show a rise of 4.9% CAGR.

The demand for geotextiles is also increasing being used in civil engineering, geotechnical & environmental design. Towards the end of the forecast period, the geotextiles segment is estimated to value US$7 billion. On the contrary, rise in the civil engineering activities is also expected to promote the uptake of this material in the near future. The market got popularity in North America, Western Europe, Eastern Europe, and Middle East, Latin America & Africa albeit the Asia Pacific technical textiles market is estimated to lead the pack during the forecast period of 2017 and 2027. It has been accounted that more than 50% of global technical textiles revenues will be earned by the Asia- Pacific region that expands a value CAGR of 6.8%. The infrastructural development of this region increases the demand for technical textile. The demand for technical textile is increasing undoubtedly but it has to face some problems too in the global market. The high prices of technical textiles as opposed to alternative fabrics and lack of awareness regarding benefits of technical textiles are the reasons of slowing down the technical textile market.

Figure: Global technical textiles market value share (%). Source: Future Market Insights, 2017

There are many companies like E.I. DuPont de Nemours and Company, Low and Boar PLC, Ahlstrom Corporation, 3M Company, Avintiv, Arville Textiles Ltd., Milliken and Company, Dickson-Constant, Baltex, and Freudenberg & Co. KG are in the leading role of technical textile market. Furthermore, possible chances of newcomers in the global market are likely to intensify the overall competition. Players are expected to focus on delivering customized solutions in the years to widen their consumer base.

Bangladeshi buyer Salman Ispahani elected ICA president Desk Report The Chairman of MM Ispahani Ltd, Mirza Salman Ispahani, has been elected as the president of International Cotton Association (ICA), the world's leading international cotton trade association and arbitral body, for 2017-18 periods, ICA said in a statement. The election was held on October 13 in Singapore. Ispahani is the first Bangladeshi and the first spinner/buyer elected as the chief of the association.

Figure: Mirza Salman Ispahani

ICA was formed in 1841 in Liverpool UK, when a group of cotton brokers created a set of bylaws and rules to help regulate the sale and purchase of raw cotton. About 90 percent of the world's cotton is

traded internationally under the bylaws and rules of ICA, which has over 550 members across the globe. The ICA offers arbitration, training, trade and networking events, plus cotton testing and research.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Te x t i l e P e o p l e

ITET to get land for own building within one month Staff Correspondent Housing and Public Works Minister, Engr. Mosharraf Hossain MP declared that the Government would give a piece of land for the Institution of Textile Engineers & Technologists (ITET) Bangladesh for their own building at Uttara, Dhaka within one month. The minister announced it in the Installation Ceremony of 14 central executive committee of ITET on October 17, 2017 at IEB auditorium in the city. “I extend my heartiest congratulations for all newly elected member of ITET and I hope the textile engineers as well ITET will play vital role to contribute 50 billion export earnings by 2021”, said Engr. Mosharraf Hossain MP. “We are passing very challenging time when we are working to achieve $50 billion by 2021. We all have to work more proactively to achieve the target. Textile engineers are the key persons who can help to achieve the target”, said ITET President Engr. Shafiqur Rahman. He also said that ITET actively working with BUTEX, BTMC, BJRI,

Figure1: Distinguished guests at the installation ceremony of ITET 14th council central executive committee.

BSTI, Customs, Cotton Board to solve the problems and help to make textile policy, jute policy, industry policy, economic policy. Engr. Shafiqur Rahman gave proposal to the government to give opportunity of being BCS cadre for textile engineering students and land for ITET’s own building. State minister for Textile and Jute, Mirza Azam MP said, “The issue of the inclusion of textile in BCS cadre is under process. More than 85 percent of the export revenue comes from this sector. But there

Figure2: Housing and Public Works Minister, Engr. Mosharraf Hossain MP was delivering his speech.

is no law for this sector. The act is drafted, we hopefully will pass textile act by December”, Mirza Azam added. “We do not need GSP. Without GSP, America is taking the garments from us mostly”, said Mahbubul Alam Hanif MP, Joint General Secretary, Bangladesh Awami League. “ITET play a vital role to promote and protect socio economic changes in case of career knowledge sharing, research and development”, he added.

Figure 3: Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahman, ITET president delivered his speech at the Installation ceremony.

Te x t i l e P e o p l e

Md. Shahid Ullah Khandaker, Secretary, Ministry of Housing & Public Works; Engr.Masud Ahmed, Vice-Chancellor, Bangladesh University of Textiles; Engr. Md. Abdus Sabur, secretary , IEB; Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman, Engr. Mozzafar Ahmed, former presidents, ITET; Engr. Shakhawat Hossain Talukder, Secretory General, ITET; Engr. Md. Selim Reza, Senior Vice President, ITET also delivered speech at the Installation Ceremony.

Figure4: State minister for Textile and Jute, Mirza Azam MP delivered his speech.

The Chief Election Commissioner, Professor Md. Monirul Islam, Registrar, BUTEX read the oath of 27 freshly elected Executive Committee (EC) members of 14th Council of ITET at the Installation Ceremony. Earlier, on 16 June 2017, 27 freshly elected Executive Committee (EC) members of 14th Council of the full panel has been elected uncontested.

Figure 5: ITET members, guests, journalists were present at the installation ceremony.

Apparel exports growing in volume not in value Staff Correspondent The garment exporters' profitability has hit a rockbottom level due to the continuous downward price pressure by the international retailers amid rising production costs. “In fact we are just keeping our businesses running”, said a garment manufacturer who exports apparel items worth nearly $500 million a year. “The price of garment items has been falling 5-8 percent every year whereas the cost of production is increasing 15-18 percent”, he added. In a recent research Textile Today has identified ‘the price pressure, increase of cost and reduction of profitability’ as the biggest challenge for the textile and apparel industry. The research also suggested some solutions. According to the commerce ministry, although the export of garment items grew 10 percent in volume in fiscal 2016-17, the value remained almost the same as in the previous year. In fiscal 2016-17, the growth of garment exports, which account for 82 percent of the total national exports, was also the lowest in the past 15 years. Primarily, the demand for apparel items is declining in the Western world as customers progressively become more environment-minded. They are making more conscientious buying decisions: purchasing less and focusing on quality. The garment industry is

producing 50 garments for each of the roughly three billion people who have the means to consume them. Moreover, the profitability from the sales of basic garment items that Bangladesh specializes in is also low. More than 70 percent of the exported garment items from Bangladesh are basic items, so that the retailers offer low prices to the manufacturers. “Garment exporters are surviving because of our value-added items, lower bank interest rate, and higher efficiency in the use of water, power and workforce”, said Siddiqur Rahman, president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association. “The bigger factories are automating their whole production process to reduce costs and cope with the falling prices”, Rahman added.

24.49

28.09

28.14

2015-16

2016-17

25.49

21.51 19.08

2011-12

2012-13

2013-14

2014-15

Figure 1: Apparel export of billion $. Source: EPB

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Fa c t o r y Ta l e s

Gas crisis- Noman Group’s Tongi units alone occurs loss of Tk. 20 crore Desk Report Noman Group, the first Bangladeshi garment exporter is to cross the $1 billion-mark in its export earnings. But it has been reported that the company is observing a loss of more than Tk. 20 crore due to the gas crisis in Tongi area over last one month. Mohammad Abdullah Zaber, Deputy Managing Director of Noman Group, said production in the company's factories, which are set up on 125 bighas of land at Tongi slumped more than 40 percent due to the gas crisis. “To run the factories in full capacity, gas pressure of 8 pounds per square inch is required. But the pressure is lowered to about 2 psi now," he said. "The other factories in Tongi are also facing the same problem”, he added. Mir Mashiur Rahman, Managing Director of the stateowned Titas Gas Transmission & Distribution Co. Ltd, which supplies gas to that belt, acknowledged that the current gas pressure in Tongi is low. “The reason is two wells of Shahjibazar gas field at Brahmanbaria

Figure 1: Noman Group office.

were damaged. The concerned field team has been working to repair the damage. I am hopeful the damage can be repaired by next week”, Rahman added. "Noman Group exports home textile and linen fabrics worth $480 million a year from the Tongi units alone," according to Zaber. “Our target is to grow our exports 30 percent in the next three years”, he said. According to Zaber, "Noman Group has 36 units, including spinning, home textile and garment, where 72,000 workers are employed. The total number of workers will cross one lakh if the proposed expansion plans are executed properly over the next two years. Noman group also cares about its employees by doing various welfare activities."

FDI hit record with 22.54 percent rise in last FY Staff Correspondent

Table1: Country wise FDI in millions of $ in FY 2016-17

According to Bangladesh Bank, foreign direct investment hit an all-time high of $2.45 billion in fiscal 2016-17 on the back of a flow in equity investment by telecom, textile particularly weaving sectors. According to data from the Bangladesh Bank, the inflows are an increase of 22.54 percent from a year before.

Singapore

701

314

USA

208

Norway

187

South Korea

178

Hong Kong

112

India

The telecom sector saw the highest inflows of $594 million, followed by textile and garment at $360.35 million and power at $334.26 million. Last fiscal year, $701 million flew in from the Singapore, $314 million from the UK, $208 million from the US, $187 million from Norway, $178 million from South Korea, $112 million from Hong Kong, $95 million from India and $90.04 million from the Netherlands. Bangladesh Bank officially said, “Some mobile phone operators brought in a significant amount of equity capital last fiscal year. This had a positive impact on the net FDI flow. It is a positive indicator for the country's private sector that the foreign companies

Netherlands

Others

569

percent to $1 billion. Reinvestment of earnings by existing foreign companies also edged up 8.70 percent to $1.25 billion. Intra-company loans more than doubled year-on-year to $195.07 million during the period.

have not repatriated their profit abroad,they are raising their investment.” The central bank calculates the FDI in three categories: equity, reinvestment of earnings and intra-company loan. In the last fiscal year, equity capital or new investment shot up 99.13 Table2: Sector wise FDI in millions of $ in FY 2016-17 Telecom

594

Textile (Weaving)

360

Power

334

Banking

156

Gas and Petroleum

134

Trading

109

Food

Others

671

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Circular Fashion

C&A launches gold level ‘Cradle to Cradle’ certified t-shirts Md. Masudur Rahman For C&A, a t-shirt is more than a piece of garment; it can be called to action too. At first glance, they may appear to be regular T-shirts; a wide neckline, loose fit, rounded seam available in two styles for women and 17 different colors certified as the world’s first line t-shirt to be cradle to cradle at the gold level in June 2017. The company says it is made of 100% organic cotton, which is benign to the environment and human health. They also added “it is the most sustainable T-shirt in the world whose materials can be reused or recycled rather than tossed in a landfill”. C&A is a 176-year-old company having around 2,000 stores in 23 countries. Recently the company has launched a t-shirt of gold level, which was started

two years ago through a family meeting where designer William McDonough spoke about the Cradle to Cradle concept he pioneered with the German chemist Michael Braungart. And it is the result of nine months development started in 2016. Cradle to cradle certification includes 19 human and environmental health criteria to ensure materials are not harmful to the environment or people, and can either be recycled, remanufactured or composted. The result is products that are environmentally sustainable today and 100 years from now. Don Brenninkmeijer, C&A’s Chief Brand, Customer & Sustainability Officer, explained this production “If you were to throw this shirt

on a compost heap, it would compost in 11 weeks.” “We are very proud to introduce our first Gold level Cradle to Cradle Certified T-shirts,” said You Nguyen, Director of brands, womenswear collections, at C&A. “Taking inspiration from nature, these shirts were designed with their next life in mind. This means they can be reused recycled—or you can literally throw your shirts onto the compost pile,” said Nguyen. Nguyen added, “We believe in fashion with a positive impact and are excited to provide our customers with stylish products and render sustainable fashion available at great value.” The Cradle to Cradle Certification process goes through five quality categories—material health, material reutilization, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship and social fairness. A product receives an achievement level in each category—Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold, or Platinum—with the lowest achievement level representing the product’s overall mark. Optimization results for the C&A T-Shirt:

Figure 1: C&A’s first class T-shirt and recycle procedure.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

• Material health: As all dyes and process chemicals were assessed on 22 human and ecological health criteria it

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

& organic molecules were eliminated resulting in platinum or gold level certificate. • Material Reutilization: As C&A uses 100% organic cotton so the customers can either take unwanted shirts to textile collection points or send them

‘SMART’ project to find out sustainability hot spots in the life cycle of T-shirt and jeans pant BUFT Correspondent

BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) has organized a seminar titled on “Minimize the lifecycle footprint of textiles” to introduce the sustainable market actors for responsible trade – smart project at Uttara club on 3 and 4 October.

Figure 2: Cradle to Cradle Certified product scorecard.

to the Fashion for Good Centre for use in chemical recycling pilots. • Water Stewardship: It recycles 100% of its water so doesn’t need any change. • Renewable Energy: The manufacturers invested in slew of natural energy like wind and solar sothe facilities purchased additional renewable-energy credits and carbon offsets to meet target criteria. • Social Fairness: Both manufacturers make workers’ rights a priority, supplying on-site medical services, temporary housing when needed, and financial training for women. There is no need for change. C&A fulfilled all the above conditions and achieved the C2C certificate. C&A’s shirts, which appeared in stores in June, use only materials that have been deemed safe for cycling as biological nutrients, making them safe enough to compost at home at the end of their lives.

The main objective of SMART (Sustainable Market Actors for Responsible Trade) project is to find out sustainability hot spots in textile value chain. The project is to do life cycle analysis of a t-shirt and a jeans pant to find out major sustainability hot spots. As per the presentations made in the seminar the project is to consider ‘Environmental’ and ‘Social’ aspects of sustainability.

Engr. Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman and Founder of Envoy Group attended as the chief guest at the stakeholder’s day while many other stakeholders, faculty members of different universities and media persons were present there. Prof. Abdul Mannan, Chairman, University Grant Commission was chief guest on the second day of the seminar. Among others Prof. Dr. Nizamuddin Ahmed, VC of BUFT, Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro VC of BUFT, Muhammad Shahidul Islam, DGM of Epyllion Style Ltd, Prof. Tineke Lambooy LL.M from Netherlands, Dr. Solaiman Haider, Director of Dept.

The project is a joint collaboration of the University of Oslo, Nyenrode Business University and BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology. In two days long seminar, there were presentations from SMART project insiders and also from different other stakeholders from the industry and the academia. The first day was of industry affiliation and second day academia affiliation.

Figure 1: Chief guest of the stakeholder’s day Engr. Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman, Envoy Group was receiving crest from Faruque Hasan (Sr. Vice President, BGMEA) and Prof. Nizamuddin Ahmed (Vice Chancellor, BUFT).

was for

This project is funded by the EU’s Framework program Horizon 2020 under the call Europe as a global actor. Finally SMART is made possible through the combinations of H2020 funds and the research contributions by the SMART consortium of scholars.

of Enviornment, Dr. Khondoker Golam Moazzem, Director of CPD, Mr.Reaz Bin Mahmood, MD of la-belle group, Ms. Mashuda Khatun Sheali, ED of NUK, Mr. Sirajul Islam Rony, President of BNGWEN, Mr. Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher of Bangladesh Textile Today & Mr.Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President of BGMEA were present.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Foundation Course on

Factory Skills Development

Learn fighting before you enter the battleground Subjects/Departments Apparel Manufacturing

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First ever

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Industry Orientation program for

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The only source of knowledge is experience

Important Date & Time:

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W e a v i n g To d a y

Itema group launches training center in Lahore Desk Report The Itema group has launched “Itema Campus” a Brand-New, State-of-the-Art Training Center in Lahore on 4 October. With its excellent facilities and capacity over 100 representatives body of the elite of the Pakistan textile industry attended, along with high-level dignitaries at the first of its programs. Itema is a leading group provides advanced weaving solutions including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. It also provides the top three weft insertion technologies: rapier, air jet and projectile, and unique in its sector with two R&D units. Itmea, Italy together with Noon International unveiled the Itema Campus, including the innovative airjet and rapier technology installed on the campus premises to make an opportunity for the growing base of customers, as well as students and interested stakeholders. In the presence of elite body of the country, Chief Guests Mr. Aamir Fayyaz Sheikh, the Italian Ambassador to Pakistan, Mr. Stefano Pontecorvo, the Itema Group HQ delegates, Mr Franco Brambilla, the Head of Sales in collaboration with the team of Itema and Noon sales presented the latest market trends as well as the actual looms which were the most surprising things of the Opening ceremony attracted the Mill owners and management in attendance highly. “We are celebrating a new milestone for our Company in Pakistan; because we believe that a physical presence in a country is essential in order to create a dynamic and positive environment for business. We want to bring Itema closer to our Customers and the ItemaCampus training center is ready to serve with our best-in-class, innovative weaving machinery to enable Pakistani Mills to produce highest quality fabrics and achieve maximum success on the worldwide market”, said Mr. Christian Straubhaar, Group Sales & Marketing Director of Itema Group at the Opening ceremony.

take full advantage of this facility and scheduled training courses for key weaving personnel at fully-functional and ergonomic Itema Campus facilities, he added. The trains on the latest Itema Rapier R9500 and Airjet A9500 series looms, as well as the Projectile P7300HP V8 and the R9500terry looms take place at different locations in Itema including the original ItemaCampus. The Itema Campus at Lahore in Pakistan offers the following services: •S erving the existing and future potential customers by providing training on the latest Rapier R9500 and Air Jet A9500 weaving machines •C ustomized training modules which will be specific to each customer’s needs • S erving the weaving customers by offering facility for product development and trials • S ervice support and back up by trained technical staff headed by a foreign delegate •S pare parts stock of emergency and running spares. As it is the first “Itema Campus” in Pakistan, training courses will be offered locally, based on customer interests. Itema offers professional training courses for operators and maintenance personnel directly at customer mills for maximum convenience and efficiency.

“We are very proud to launch our new training center, following the original Itema Campus in Italy, introduced in 2015. We want all our Customers to feel welcome and to experience first-hand the prowess and technological superiority of Itema weaving machinery range in an open and modern space with a ‘campus’ feel“, added Mr. Straubhaar. “No matter how easy to use and intuitive the latestgeneration weaving equipment from Itema, training remains a key element when it comes to getting the most out of your looms,” continued Mr Straubhaar. This is why Itema strongly encourages Customers to

Figure 1: Brand-new state-of-the-art training center – Itema Campus at Lahore in Pakistan.

Co -operations

Extended partnerships between Huntsman and Viyellatex Group Staff Correspondent On 11th October Huntsman Textile Effects and Viyellatex Group has renewed their partnership contract during a customer seminar of Huntsman Textile Effect in Dhaka. Both the companies has announced an extension of their partnership and collaboration agreement for another two years. The agreement will see the Viyellatex Group continuing to use Huntsman as its preferred and sole supplier for industry leading dyes, chemicals and dying auxiliaries. This partnership, now in its 17th year reinforces the recognition of Huntsman as a trusted and preferred supplier for the Viyellatex Group. SwissColours Bangladesh Ltd, David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group, Chuck Hirsch, Viice President, Sales and Technical Resources of Huntsman Textile Effects, Dheeraj Talreja, Commercial Dirctor Huntsman Textile Effects.

Figure 1: At the signing ceremony (from left to right) Akther Hossain, Managing Director of SwissColours Bangladesh Ltd, David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group, Chuck Hirsch, Viice President, Sales and Technical Resources of Huntsman Textile Effects, Dheeraj Talreja, Commercial Dirctor Huntsman Textile Effects.

Viyellatex Group is one of the many other companies who are using ranges of dyestuff and auxiliaries from Huntsman. About co-operation and partnership extension with Viyellatex Group Mr. Hirsch said, “We are extremely pleased and proud of this continuing partnership with the Viyellatex Group. As a global leader in the transition to a more sustainable textiles sector, we are pleased to join hands with one of the country’s leading exporter of ready-made garments (RMG) and a supplier to leading international brands”.

using only organic materials and environmentally compliant chemicals and dyes and Huntsman is the perfect partner in this regard as they share this vision.” Viyellatex remains a 100% export-oriented organization with products catering to worldwide customers today. As a part of continuous sustainable growth recently Viyellatex Group is setting up new spinning project. Viyellatex considers corporate sustainability as an important edifice of its ethics. It gives special importance to all its corporate sustainability activities. It values environmental protection and conservation, and realizes that only by being responsible to nature, we can truly be responsible to the people and planet, Mr. David added.

David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group said, “Viyellatex Group is the leading company in the area of sustainable apparel in Bangladesh. This continuing support and technical expertise from Huntsman will help us be more competitive in this increasingly challenging market. It will help us to comply with the stringent product demands from our global customers and better equip us to face challenges from the operational and environmental aspects.” He also said, “Viyellatex Group places strong emphasis on sustainability by minimizing energy usage, adopting waste and water recycling, and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Figure 2: David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group delivered speech on the seminar

Human Capital

Job creation has slowed down especially in RMG sector due to weaker export growth Staff Correspondent Bangladesh economic growth remains resilient in spite of volatile export growth and shrinking remittances, according to a new World Bank Report “The Bangladesh Development Update”, which is revealed on September 27 at the World Bank Bangladesh office in the capital. The World Bank Report said, "the rate of job creation has slowed down day by day due to the weaker economic growth, infrastructure gap, predominance of informality in labor markets and slow structural reforms."

readymade garments factories have seen a fall in job creation. Even the participation of women has declined.” He also said in the last few years Bangladesh witnessed over 6% GDP growth rate driven by industry and services, and despite a decrease in productivity in the agriculture sector. FY12

FY13

FY14

FY15

FY16

FY17

GDP Growth

6.5

6.0

6.1

6.6

7.1

7.2

Industry

2.47

2.59

2.27

2.74

3.24

3.18

Manufacturing

1.70

1.80

1.60

1.93

2.26

2.21

Services

3.40

2.90

3.00

3.21

3.31

Agriculture

0.50

0.40

0.70

0.53

0.43

0.50

Import duty

0.10

0.13

0.16

0.28

0.24

0.25

Figure 3: Contribution of Production Sector (%).

Figure1: World Bank Country Director for Bangladesh Qimiao Fan and Zahid Hussain, Lead Economist at the World Bank's Dhaka office, during the briefing.

According to the global lender, between 2003 and 2016 an average of 1.15 million net jobs were created in Bangladesh each year.Between 2003 and 2010, total employment grew by 3.1% per year before falling back to 1.8% between 2011 and 2016, impacting women and youths in particular. The World Bank suggested Bangladesh focuses on micro-financial stability, structural reforms, urban planning and technological advances especially in SMEs, in order to create more jobs, better jobs and inclusive jobs and boost its growth potential.

Micro-financial stability Structural reforms Urban Planning and technological Figure 2: Showing the key focus areas by World Bank to create more jobs.

Zahid Hussain, the lead economist at the World Bank’s Dhaka office said, “We have witnessed strong GDP growth but it is not reflected in the job market. The largest job provider in the private sector in

According to this report, GDP growth is projected to be robust and above many developing countries in East and South Asia in FY 2018. Growth is expected at 6.4% in FY 18, driven by industry and service. Export growth likely to pick up modestly with the expected recovery in global trade. Remittance may turn around and private investments may pick up.

7.5 6.4

6.3 5.5

5.3

3.3

BANGLADESH

CHINA

INDONESIA

THAILAND

PAKISTAN

INDIA

Growth in %

Figure 4: Country wise growth expected in FY18 ( Source: World Bank )

“The Bangladesh economy is moving forward at a strong pace despite internal and external headwinds,” said Qimiao Fan, World Bank Country Director, Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal. "Bangladesh needs to be more investment for increasing GDP to creation better jobs", he added. The World Bank also stressed the importance of private and public investment for increasing productivity and employment.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 10, Issue 10

Human Capital

More than 14 percent of export earnings are being taken back by the foreign employees working in Bangladesh Desk Report Bangladesh is the second largest readymade garments exporter in the world, every year the industry earns a large amount of foreign currency. Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s RMG export earnings stood at $28.15 billion in the last FY 2016-17, which is o.19 percent higher than the $28.09 billion achieved in FY 15-16. It is a matter of sorrow that every year Bangladesh invests about 14.36 percent of export revenues to hire foreign employees. Last FY the total export of the country was $34.84 billion.

but there are no details of foreign expatriates, their position and sectors. Though 10000 registered foreigners are working in BEPZA, NGO and BOI but the total number is said to be more than 500000, according to the Daily Star. Ceter for Policy Dialogue (CPD) has recommended that the government should form a committee to investigate the large remittance outflows to India. CEBAI (Center of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry) a joint association of Sweden & BEGMEA decided to survey on foreign expatriates on different sectors to minimize the currency loss by employing local skilled people in different sectors that also help to reduce unemployment problem.

Figure 1: Foreign expatriates from different countries are working in Bangladesh

The Experts opined that, if the country could employ its own skilled employees a huge amount of foreign currencies could be saved and unemployment problem could be solved. It is seen that about $ 12.76 billion has been sent from Bangladesh and the foreign employees withdraw nearly $5 billion according to Bangladesh Bank. Mostly India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, South Korea and some European and African countries employees are working in Bangladesh RMG, IT and other manufacturing industries. Normally BoI (the Board of Investment), BIDA (Bangladesh Investment Development Authority), NGO Affairs Bureau and BEPZA, (Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority)- issue the work permits for the foreigners who are holding vital positions like merchandiser, quality controller, designer, marketing officer and technician at washing and dyeing units mostly in garments textile factories, buying houses and liaison offices.

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E n e r g y To d a y

Deal signed with Qatar to import annually 2.5 million tonnes LNG Desk Report

The Qatar based LNG producer RasGas Company Ltd and the state-owned Petrobangla signed the country's first ever sales and purchase agreement on 25 September in Doha to import 2.5 million tonnes of Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG) annually for 15 years to meet the country’s demand. Mr. Hamad Mubarak AlMuhannadi, CEO of RasGas and Mr. Abdul Mansur Md Faizullah, Petrobangla Chairman signed the sales and purchase agreement. The contract with the world’s biggest LNG exporter underscores the rise of South

credit equivalent of the price of two months' LNG on the basis of a base annual contract quantity to a first-class international bank as financial security. Payment has to be made in the US dollar within 15 days of submitting import invoice. If there happens a delay of seven days, the rate of interest would be LIBOR plus 4 percent. For further delays, it would be LIBOR plus 5 percent. A senior official at the Energy and Mineral Resources Division under the energy ministry told that the

Figure: Qatar and Bangladeshi team were singing the sales & purchase agreement in Doha.

Asia as a new market for the fuel. Earlier, Qatari officials initialed the deal in Dhaka in July and Cabinet Purchase Committee approved the deal. At present, gas supply stands at about 2,750 MMCFD (million cubic feet of gas per day) against the demand for 3,600 MMCFD. The scarcity of gas has affected power generation as well as industries and households. Nasrul Hamid, who has been leading a high-profile energy delegation on a visit to Qatar, said Bangladesh would need to import huge amounts of gas, as country’s demand will go up to 8,000 MMCFD by 2041 from the current demand of 3,600 MMCFD. He also said that Bangladesh is now developing two floating storage and re-gasification units (FSRU), having annual 7.5 million tonnes capacity, to import and process the LNG to meet the country’s growing demand. There are some hard conditions in the agreement like Bangladesh would not be able to review the terms and conditions within nine years and per year 1.8 million tonnes LNG will be imported by base volume condition, if petrobangla takes less than the base volume, it will have to pay the price on a takeor-pay basis. As per the terms of the agreement, Petrobangla will have to deposit standby letter of

procurement-price has been set at around 13.15 per cent of the three-month average Brent crude prices. So the total LNG import price would be around $ 6.50 per Mcf (1000 cubic feet) which is almost three times higher than the average price of natural gas in Bangladesh. However, the quantity could be increased later as the deal is flexible in both sides. From the RMG sector, Mr. Engr. Ahsan, owner of Touha Textile reacted instantly and said, “We are struggling at the present gas price. It’ll be very difficult to sustain if the gas price increases more. On the other hand, Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission is trying to increase electricity price.” The government has also signed deals with US firm Exellarate Energy and local firm Summit group, Indian firm Reliance Group and Chinese firm Hong Kong Shanghai Manjala for supplying capacity floating storage and re-gasification unit (FSRU) daily 500 MMCFD commissioned by 2018, 500 MMCFD commissioned by 2019 and 500 MMCFD commissioned by 2020. H.E. Dr. Mohammed bin Saleh Al Sada, Qatar’s Minister of Energy and Industry, H.E. Mr. Saad Sherida Al Kaabi, the President and CEO of Qatar Petroleum, and Mr. Syed Ashfaquzzaman, Secretary of Petrobangla attended the agreement signing meeting.

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Volume 10, Issue 10