February 2022

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ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

VOLUME 10 | ISSUE NO. 02 | RS 100 | Pages 110

FEBRUARY 2022

BUDGET BONANZA

www.textilevaluechain.in

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Leaspin Textile LLP is one of the fastest growing Textile companies in lnternational markets managed by highly skilled professionals, innovators, qualified & experienced dedicated Leaders and workforce. Products: Cotton Ginning and pressing Ring Spun Yarn: Count Range: 20s to 45s Combed Hosiery/ Weaving , Combed Compact Hosiery/ Weaving And Carded yarns

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Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. We spin to weave your dreams

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ABOUT SSCPL Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. is a textile company involved in the manufacturing of Cotton Yarn from the Raw Cotton directly from the Farmers. With the increasing demand and facilities in textile industry, Shiddhanath stand out among its competitors in terms of product quality delivered within optimum time. With over 500+ employees and workers unite to work at Shiddhanath, all of them are bound to meet the company's expectations which makes the company lead in the textile industry.

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February 2022

Table of

CONTENT

COVER STORY

20 23 25

Bonanza Makes Industry Smile Highlights Union Budget – 2022

27

Turkish Upholstery Leader opts for montex®coat 26

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43% Upturn for Italian Textile Machinery

29

Vandewiele Savio India Merger Finalised Radianza™ AW22/23 collection by full thai knitting

INTERVIEW

31

Yarn orders for Next 3 months lined up: Jayesh Patel

35

More Room for Modernisation of textile Industry : S.K.Chattopadhyay

44 47 49

From Pins to Rollers & much more, Basant Fibertek expands : Kishore Khaitan Sangam India’s Exports Soar 114%, plan big expansion: S.N. Modani Sustainability at the Fore Front Anjani Prasad

Spinning Focus : Unique Solutions for Processing Viscose with Air-Jet Spinning

EVENT REPORT

Building the Nation with Textiles

NEWS

48

80

83

Non Woven Tech Asia

MARKET REPORT

86 88 89 92 93 94

T-shirts, singlets and other vests, knitted/crocheted export Textile Machinery Import Technical Textile Import Natural Fibre Import

SHOW CALENDAR Fashion Focus : Fashion in Formals

ADVERTISER INDEX Cover Page : Meera Back Page : Raymond

59 : Avenue

Back Inside : Raysil

60 : Teraspin

Front Inside : Rimtex 3 : Lemerit 4 : MCX 5: Ekta Fiber

Recycling is the future : Mr. Chhaganbhai Sangani

65: Texfab engineers 78: Uster 82: Sakthi Industries

85: Amritlakshmi

6: Kotak Ginning

87: Mahalaxmi ceramics

7: Maruti Spintex

91: Bishnu Texport

8 : Fiotex

51

58 : Liva

95: LRT

9: Unitech 10: Le Spin

96 : TEXFAIR 2022 97: Niva Export

INDUSTRY VIEWS

11: Radheshyam

61

Technical Textile : Processing of Automotive Fabrics

13: Hi Spin

99: Meera

14 : Shiddhanath Cotex

100 : Akshar Spintex

66

Industry Focus : Industries Progressing with Scopes, Post Covid-19

15 : TexTech

101: Ramkrishna

16: ITM 2022 19: Yash machines

102: Gimatex

79

Swiss Textile Machinery : Going Digital: Swiss textile Machinery Shows the Way

98: Key Textile

12: RSB Cottex

30: Saurer 34: Omax 46: Ken india 54-55 : Sky Spintex 56: Phenix 57: Basant Wire

103: Narmada 104: Astra Tech 105 : Shreeram 106: Giriraj / Glossy 107: Rameswar Udyog 108: Dodhia Group

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SUBSCRIPTION

Innovate or Emulate

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I

ndian industry could breathe a sigh of relief when the Budget revealed a bonanza for it in many a way. The allocation for the textile sector for year 2022-23 in the Union Budget presented on February 1 by the Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised Budget allocation of 2021-22 of ₹11,449.32 crore Budget allocation during 2021. Infrastructure has got a big push and the industry welcomed setting up of seven mega textiles parks. Private industry will be encouraged to take up military equipment designing in collaboration with India’s Defence Research and Development Organisation, which will give a boost to technical textiles. One can call the year 2022 as a watershed year since the industry is at crossroads. Now the only way to consolidate its position in the global market is to take the path to innovation. If one sees the way the industry has wriggled out of the Covid crisis, all are of the unanimous opinion that the best is near at hand. Already, it is out of the tunnel and basking in the warmth of good gestures through the Budget by the Government. One main plank no doubt is the Innovation, which is the answer to all its ills and stagnation. Innovate all the way to success is the only mantra to capture the global market in textiles. It can take a leaf out of the Cematex conviction that Innovation is the heartbeat of transformation: Start-Up Valley, a new initiative by CEMATEX, spotlights companies in its early stages of development with new and game changing solutions and technologies to support and inspire innovation for the textile, garment and fashion industry. Transformation is more critical than ever. What is needed are cutting-edge developments from research and educational institutes, and the industry. An exemplary move by the Cematex is the Research & Innovation Lab which will be the ideal platform for research and educational organisations, and the industry to showcase the latest exciting developments as well as to collaborate with top brands and like-minded businesses from around the world. Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, says the Indian Government. Self-reliance in textile technologies is an important step, among other measures to achieve it. Indian yarn has received many accolades. The fabric and garment sectors are not far behind. And if the technologies also lift all these segments with innovation, there’s nothing like it. Innovate or emulate or collaborate, to realise these, the mindset must change. Industries in India have done the impossible all their way to glory. And why not this traditional industry of textiles in the land of talents and capability to surmount all the odds and win its share of glories.

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EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah

ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING Mr. Samuel Joseph

CONTENT WRITER Ms. Muskaan Valecha

CREATIVE DESIGNER Mr.Anant Jogale

MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com REGISTERED OFFICE: Innovative Media and Information Company 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East)A, Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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COVER STORY

BONANZA MAKES INDUSTRY SMILE

NIRMALA SITHARAMAN Finance Minister of India

TVC Editorial Team

About 8.1% higher allocation, Rs 134-cr allocation for Cluster Development Scheme, and a big push to Infrastructure are some of the bold steps taken in the Budget for 2022-23 that have made the industry smile with satisfaction.

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he allocation for the textile sector for year 2022-23 in the Union Budget presented on February 1 by the Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised budget allocation of 2021-22 which stands at about ₹11,449.32 crore. Budget allocation during 2021-22 initially was ₹3,631.64 crore, but it was later revised to ₹11,449.32 crore mainly due to increased allocation for procurement of cotton by Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) under ‘Price Support Scheme’ from ₹136 crore initially to ₹8,439.88 crore. For financial year 2022-23, the allocation is ₹9,243.09 crore, which is about 9.5 per cent higher than revised allocation of last year. In the present Budget, the government has allocated about ₹133.83 crore for Textile Cluster Development Scheme, and hence the total budget allocation for Research and Capacity Building in textiles increased by 73.4 per cent to reach about ₹478.83 crore in

2022-23, as compared to revised budget allocation of ₹276.10 crore in 2021-22. The recently announced Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme and PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) scheme also saw an allocation of ₹15 crore each for 2022-23. The government has also allocated ₹105 crore for the year 2022-23 towards Raw Material Supply Scheme, which has already been approved for implementation during period from 2021-22 to 2025-26. The main increase is for cotton procurement by Cotton Corporation of India under the price support scheme. The Cotton Corporation will see allocation of ₹9,243 crore for the next financial year as against ₹8,440 crore in the revised budget allocation for the current year. This is for the committed liability of the government to the Corporation, said an official. On duties levied, with no changes in the 10% import duty on cotton, the industry’s expectation of

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duty on PTA, which was a long-standing demand of the Textile Manufacturing Value Chain, as PTA is a crucial input for polyester production. This will potentially open up the MMF Value Chain, and give a fillip to the entire MMF industry and enhance its global competitiveness. Technical Textiles, Home Furnishing, Sportswear Industry, Sarees, Dress Materials etc., will all benefit greatly from this move. This move has the potential of being an important game changer for the MMF segment of the industry.

measures to control cotton prices, which is the raw material, was not met. Trimmings, embellishments, labels and the like that attract 5% import duty will now be available as duty-free imports for exporters of textiles and leather garments. But it seems made-ups and home textiles have been excluded from the duty-free import of trimmings, etc. At present, machinery such as for knitting and weaving machines are included in the list of machines having Concessional Custom Duty of 5%. All these machines will attract 7.5% import duty. Industry sources said customs duty includes the ad valorem tax and specific duty. The specific duty is likely to be rationalised for certain fabric items and removed for some of the garments. The industry welcomed setting up of seven mega textiles parks under MITRA, and duty reduction on nylon raw materials. However, the levy of 10% import duty on cotton saw mixed reactions. The Budget also puts emphasis on infrastructure development and research & capacity building as the grant for these sectors has been increased by about 43.7% and 77.5%, respectively, compared to last year. The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) the apex association of the apparel industry of the country has welcomed the Union Budget as positive and growth oriented for the Apparel Industry. Mr Rakesh Biyani, President, CMAI said that the most important step in this Budget for the Textile Industry was the removal of the Anti-dumping

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Mr Biyani further stated that other than this, there are several other measures which could benefit the Textile Industry, but which appear to be work in progress at this point of time – such as the Technical Textile Mission, a review of the Rules of Origin especially in our FTAs, a review of cheap imports of goods being made by our MSME Sector, refund of all the Taxes and Levies for Exports, and the targeting of making every District an Export hub. The proposed financing of Invoices of the MSME Sector could again be a huge benefit to the industry, which is largely comprised of the MSME Units. If indeed all these plans fructify as per the stated goals and objectives, this could be a landmark Budget for the Industry. This year’s Budget allocates Rs 700 crore for Amended Technology Upgradation Scheme (ATUFs) against Rs 545 crore in the last one, which will help clear the pending capital subsidy. It earmarks Rs 30 crore for Export Promotion Studies against Rs 5 crore in the last Budget, and Rs 100 crore for Integrated Scheme for Skill Development. “With the active support and cooperation of the government, the textile industry will become globally competitive, attract large investments and boost employment generation and exports in the years ahead,” the Northern India Textile Mills’ Association (NITMA) President Sanjay Garg said. “Basic customs duty (BCD) rates on caprolactam, nylon chips and nylon fibre and yarn will be uniformly reduced to 5% to spur textile industry, MSMEs, and exports,” he said. “The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for man-made fibres and technical textiles with a total outlay of Rs10,683 crore will help the textile industry become globally competitive, attract large investments and boost employment generation. Moreover, to achieve the target of $350 billion from the current size of $167 billion, our manufacturing sector has to grow in double digits on a sustained


basis. Our manufacturing companies need to become an integral part of global supply chains, possess core competence and cutting-edge technology,” CITI chairman Rajkumar said. He added that the reduction in customs duty on caprolactam, nylon chips and nylon fibre and yarn to 5 % is a step in the right direction, as it will bring nylon chain on a par with polyester and other man-made fibres. The associations appealed to the Prime Minister to immediately withdraw the levy of 10% import duty on cotton and cotton waste to sustain the global competition, prevent job losses and fall in the exports and also curb cheaper imports of value-added products from the SAFTA countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc. Earlier, The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India - CMAI - wholeheartedly welcomed the decision taken at the GST Council’s meeting to defer the proposed increase of GST Rate from 5% to 12% on all items of textiles and garments. CMAI has been continuously raising its voice against the proposed increase especially on Garments, and especially at a time when the industry is reeling under one of the most severe cost increases in recent years, and is

our viewpoints to almost all the Central and State Finance Ministers, and we are extremely grateful that they have accepted our concerns and decided to defer the proposed increase”. “Our grateful thanks in particular to the Union Minister of Finance, Ms Nirmala Sitharamanji, for her understanding of the disastrous impact on the industry if this increase had come through, and supporting the decision to defer it in the Council Meeting” he added. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor and Past President thanked the Hon. Minister of Textiles Mr Piyush Goyal and the Minister of State for Textiles Ms Darshanaben Jardosh, and the Textile Ministry, for their strong support to the cause of the industry. “Without their support, this decision would not have been possible, and our sincere thanks to them”. President Masand also thanked the Trade Associations across the country who got the voice of lakhs of Manufacturers and Retailers to be heard by the Government. However, CMAI has cautioned that the decision to

just about struggling to emerge out of the effects of the Covid pandemic. Rajesh Masand, President, said “During the last couple of months we have met and explained

increase the Rates has only been postponed to the next Council Meeting, and reiterated their resolve to continue partnering with the Government on all issues such that win-win solutions emerge on all issues faced by the industry.

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COVER STORY

HIGHLIGHTS UNION BUDGET – 2022/23

MR. N.D. MHATRE Director General (Tech.) ITAMMA

machines for upgrading their performance/automation}

Action on climate and transition to clean energy as part of a national master plan that will also lead to logistics efficiency (195 billion rupees production-linked incentives for solar modules.) {Solar infrastructure Projects in Textile Mills are encouraged} •

Gati Shakti - seamless building of infrastructure projects and improving ease of doing business (The budget allots 480 billion rupees for a housing plan, including affordable housing, in urban and rural areas) {Technical Textile stream for development of Sound proof fabrics, Furnishing/ Home Textiles, introduction of textile fibre composite grids for roof, etc needs to be focused}

India will expand highways by 25,000 kilometers {Scope for Geo-textiles, and fabrics for canopies along these highways for villagers to sale their local branded products and also for Petrol Pumps/ Electric charging stations} •

India’s plan to become a Smartphone and electronics manufacturing base for the world, an alternative to China. (Duty concessions for some electronics manufacturer) {Efforts to be taken through start-ups for incorporation of Smart Electronic items/gadgets on the existing textile

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Improvement of health infrastructure –is stagnant at around 2%, according to the Economic Survey released this week (A national tele-mental health programme) {medical textiles can be promoted in these infrastructure}.

‘Parvat Mala’ -- building roads and highways in India’s mountainous region stretching from north to north eastern India {scope for using Engineered textiles in the form of safety items like parachutes in emergency, safety apparels, etc} •

DEVELOPMENT – AGRI- private partnership in ensuring farmers get access to new technologies in agriculture. {projects like Manufacturing of Banana fibre and its products, silk, wool, innovative textiles at fibre stage, organic farming, etc can be focused/undertaken}

“Drone as a service” ‘Drone Shakti” {Drones/flying Robots can be used to reach at places which are in-hygienic /very troublesome to access in textile departments like Wet-Processing/Spinning, etc, ITAMMA is on the process of using this technology for International Hybrid Delegation/


ing system for better financial inclusion (target of 150,000 post offices into digital financial transaction systems, (digital ecosystem)

Technology Scouting Missions} • interlinking five rivers in central and northern India {The scope for Engineered Textiles for filter fabrics/Geo-textiles/Landscape fabrics, etc is developed} •

Chemical-free natural farming will be promoted throughout the country. (Zero Budget Natural Farming - the cost of growing and harvesting plants is zero, as no purchase of fertilizers and pesticides) {Lower duty on some chemicals} •

India will use clean tech to improve public transport in urban areas (electric vehicles) {suburban railway networks, EV charging stations etc. will create demand for technical textiles}

task force for recognizing potential in the animation, visual effect, gaming sector to open up employment opportunities (may be exploited for textile designing field} •

Private industry will be encouraged to take up military equipment designing in collaboration with India’s Defence Research and Development Organisation (65% of the sector capex for local companies in the annual budget) {scope for Engineered textiles is developed} •

digital rupee using blockchain technology by the central bank in 2022-23 boost India’s startup ecosystem (extends tax incentive for startups up to March 2023) •

Revokes anti dumping duty for some steel products (will help the Textile Engineering Industry} •

Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, public issue of LIC is expected shortly.

Emergency credit guarantee for MSMEs is being expanded for the hospitality industry and extended until March 2023. {will definitely help MSMEs to come out of their expected debts and overcome the survival stage to growth}

Digital education in a big way. 200 TV and digital channels to support learning in Indian languages, a digital university {this arrangement can be made used to establish the Indian machine catalogues/ literature, etc. at the international platform thus helping the viewer/user to be more user-friendly with the content and thus may develop the scope of new markets} •

three recently launched plans aimed at welfare of women {will be useful especially for Handloom/ Handicraft/Cottage Textile Industry where involvement of women on higher side} •

Rs 60000CR in the budget to drinking water {scope for filter fabrics/recycled fibres for making glasses/bottles, etc} •

proposes to start 400 new “Vande Bharat” trains in three years {Scope developed for the Engineered textiles utilized in the trains; furnishing/ bed-sheets/covers/, etc} • India’s post offices will be brought on core bank-

ECONOMY UPDATE Capex target expanded by 35.4 per cent — from Rs 5.54 lakh crore to Rs 7.50 lakh crore. FY23 effective capex seen at Rs 10.7 lakh crore

Inclusive Development, Productivity Enhancement, Sunrise Opportunities, Energy Transition, Climate Action, Financing of investments

India’s growth highest among all major economies; we are now in a strong position to withstand challenges

Productivity-linked incentive schemes in 14 sectors have received excellent response; received investment intentions worth Rs 30 lakh crore

The goal is complementing macro-growth with micro-all-inclusive welfare, digital economy and fintech, tech-enabled development, energy transition and climate action

Economic recovery benefitting from public investment and capital spending. This Budget will provide impetus to growth

ECLGS cover expanded by Rs 50,000 to Rs 5 lakh crore

In 2022-23, states will be allowed fiscal deficit of up to 4 pc of GSDP Reference : The Economic Times

Top focus of the budget this year are: PM Gati Shakti,

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COVER STORY

BUILDING THE NATION WITH TEXTILES

Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director

RAINA INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED. India is a dream whose time has come. The development of New India and with a focus on self-reliance is the key to its growth story. The textile sector being a major contributor to the GDP of the country also stands aligned with offering its services for the growth of the nation, says Dr. Mohit Raina. Most recently, the Honorable Finance Minister Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman presented the Union Budget. Infrastructure spend of about Rs. 10 lakh crore in the Budget of 2022-23 will help propel the growth of the country as infrastructure acts as a growth multiplier. With the National Infrastructure Pipeline (2020-25) envisaging an investment of Rs 111 lakh crore, the target annual investment ranges between Rs 20-22 lakh crore. National highways will be expanded by 25,000 km during 2022 and the national ropeway development programme will be taken up in the public-private-partnership (PPP) mode. In spite of these investments, corrosion and dilapidation of these structures poses a severe threat to these developments. A study carried out R. Bhaskaran,

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N. Palaniswamy, and N.S. Rengaswamy published in the Corrosion Reviews 2009 evaluated the cost of corrosion in India to have escalated from 1960 to 1986 by 26-fold and the estimate was pegged at a value of Rs. 40760 million in 1986. Comparing annual cost of corrosion with GDP over the era of newly independent India from 1950-1990, corrosion contributed to about 5.95% the GDP of the country annually. With the growth in the infrastructure sector and the impetus given, we as a country need to make sure that in New India we apply advanced materials to resolve this challenge faced by our very own selves by learning from the past. One might wonder as to what the contribution of the textile community would be to this infrastructure growth. In fact, the textile industry is the only industry, which can help build a sustainable infrastructure by means of fibres, textiles conventionally known as technical textiles. If nature were to be taken as a benchmark, textile and fibrous structures are the ones which provide nature with


its sustainability. It is time that we seriously begin to learn from nature and create sustainable structure with fibres and textiles. The commonly known names like Buildtech, GeoTech and Marinetech are synonymous to sustainability in the infrastructure domain. Currently, extensive amounts of steel reinforced concrete are being used for building structures all across India. A major challenge faced by steel reinforced concrete is the corrosion resistance of the steel in the coastal areas of India. India has a coastline of 7,517 km. The temperature in the coastal regions often exceeds 30°C (86°F), and is coupled with high levels of humidity. Annual rainfall in this region averages between 1,000 and 3,000 mm (39 and 120 in). These extreme climatic conditions have a great effect on the reinforced structures. Hence, the reinforced structures have to be replaced and restored after every couple of years. The textile component as a reinforcement provides the necessary high tensile strength in a concrete matrix. This leads to an appropriate load carrying capacity for applications in infrastructure. The reinforcement can be realised with short fibre or with long fibre textile structures. The initial contributors comprised of short fibre, generally polypropylene, glass fibres, which were introduced into the concrete matrix. These short fibre reinforcements provide localised reinforcement but due to their random placement they reduce

crack propagation in concrete and are not suitable as elements carrying loads. Research has been carried out to use long fibre/ filaments as structural reinforcement. Use of textiles and fibres can help the reduction of the concrete consumption by up to 80% and also reduction of steel by up to 75%. In addition to corrosion resistance the major advantages of textiles and fibres are their better performance characteristics in terms of their strength-weight ratio, durability, flexibility, insulating and absorption properties, and fire and heat resistance. Contribution in sectors such as roadways with soil reinforcement, embankment reinforcement, asphalt stability etc., railways with applications ranging from laying the track sleepers to making the railway coach and its interiors, bridges with applications like carbon fibre strengthening to glass fibre reinforcement are going to play a crucial role in building this country. This application will however not only need production, engineering but also formulation of building and construction IS Codes and guidelines for their successful applications. Cross-sectoral collaboration; within Ministries, certifying agencies, research institutes, engineers, operator, manufacturers and onsite contractors, is needed to facilitate this paradigm shift and transformation in India. India is a dream whose time has come and with the policies aligned towards building a sustainable country, fibres and textiles will definitely play their part.

www.textileappareljobs.com

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NEWS

TURKISH UPHOLSTERY LEADER OPTS FOR MONTEX®COAT

Turkish powerhouse in home textiles and furnishing fabrics Altun Tekstil has just commissioned the first Montex®Coat coating system in Turkey. The advanced machine has been installed at the ever-expanding family-owned company’s industrial complex in Bursa and is being employed to provide an anti-slip and textured backing to upholstery fabrics with a stable and uniform foam, via knife-over-roller coating. Founded in 1993, Altun exports its fabrics to more than 60 countries, with its major export markets being Russia and Ukraine, as well as many Middle Eastern and European countries. Its integrated operations include the production of texturized yarns, weaving and raschel knitting, in addition to dyeing and finishing. With a major focus on tulle curtains and upholstery, the company’s fabric range also extends to a wide variety of apparel styles. “Despite the current market conditions, our investments continue to increase,” said company owner Murat Altun. “We have established both a knit and woven fabric dyehouse and an integrated upholstery fabric weaving factory, where in 2022 we will also backward integrate into synthetic filament spinning from chips. In the longer term, we plan to bring all of our operations together in a single facility

Altun Plant Manager Mehmet Mor at the controls of the new machine.

of 350,000 square metres, to employ approximately 10,000 people. We have new investment targets that aim to further reduce our dependence on overseas suppliers and enable us to do everything within our own operations.” Altun has installed eight Monfongs stenters in various widths at its two plants since 2016 – coincidentally the year Monforts Turkish representative Neotek was founded. “We have worked with Neotek from the start and both its service and the product quality with Monforts technology are extremely satisfying,” said Plant Manager Mehmet Mor. All of the stenters are engineered for specific product lines and the Montex®Coat unit is integrated into the latest of these lines, which has a maximum working width of 2.2 metres and eight chambers. “With the Montex®Coat unit Altun is able to achieve an even foam application at high speed which results in a very economic process,” said Monforts Sales Manger Thomas Päffgen. The fully integrated line benefits from universal control technology and the unique Monforts visualisation system. The Montex®Coat’s bordering system has been optimised for enhanced user-friendliness, while the doctor blade adjustment range is the most precise available on the market.

The fully integrated line benefits from the unique Monforts visualisation system.

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The Montex®Coat unit enables an even foam application to be achieved at high speeds.

The coater is installed at the front of the eighth Monfongs Montex stenter supplied to the company.

43% UPTURN FOR ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY

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ALESSANDRO ZUCCHI ACIMIT Italian textile

he index of orders intake for machinery for the fourth quarter of 2021, processed by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a 43% upturn compared to the same period in 2020. In absolute terms, the index stood at 127.9 points (base 100 in 2015). This growth was spurred on by both the Italian and foreign markets. More specifically, domestic orders were up 83% compared to the period October-December 2020, for an absolute value of 234.6. Orders collected abroad grew by 36%, for an absolute index value equal to 116.4.

On an annual basis, the index of orders intake increased by 95%, for an absolute value of 128 points. The increase in orders abroad was 79%, while orders collected for domestic market were up 204% compared to what was observed in 2020. Alessandro Zucchi, President of ACIMIT, commented the results of the survey: “We’re experiencing a recovery in the sector that we didn’t quite expect. Production has returned to pre-Covid levels, while foreign demand has been robust in most markets, and in Italy it has benefited from the Government Transition 4.0 incentives.” However, the many orders to be filled are now a cause for concern, given the

scarce availability of components and raw materials due to the interruption of supply chains. Added to this is the sharp rise in the cost of energy. Thus, 2022 is expected to be a year in which optimism and foreboding still prevail for the Italian textile machinery sector, pending ITMA 2023, the world’s most important textile machinery exhibition, scheduled to be held in Milan in June 2023. “The many registered Italian manufacturers are an important signal,” concludes ACIMIT’s President, adding that, “ITMA Milan will mark a definitive relaunching of the textile machinery sector, and will confirm Italy’s leadership in the field of textile technologies. This will be a must opportunity for all Italian businesses.”

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NEWS

VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA MERGER FINALISED Vandewielen & Savio India announced that they had finalised the merging process, creating a global network for their customers. The two companies will operate under the new name of Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited. “We are convinced that these joined forces provide a comprehensive network of integrated services that will better serve our customer’s needs for the Indian market”. This strategic alliance is set to immensely benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these two leading groups, offering complete weaving, winding, twisting solutions to the Indian customers, will give them a sustainable competitive advantage in their business. About Vandewiele Vandewiele builds carpet looms, velvet looms, jacquard machines and integrate innovative textile systems for flooring qualities, home linen, fashion fabrics and technical textiles. Sharing inspiration and expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape the textile industry of the future. Creating success for them all, from yarn to finished product. Our Research and Development department and test-engineers are continuously developing new applications. The innovative breakthroughs of Vandewiele give a boost to the textile industry. About SAVIO Over its 110+ years history, Savio acted as technological leader and most innovative player in attractive niches of the textile value chain. Savio leverages on the best value-for-money proposition

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in the industry. It has a consolidated presence in all relevant geographies with a local-for-local approach, allowing Savio to promptly address market demand and requirements. Savio is specialized in the textile machinery sector for the yarn finishing segment being the leading supplier of winding and twisting machines with manufacturing plants in Italy, China and India. Savio India, the advanced TFO manufacturing set up of Savio group in India, will continue to provide and ensure state of the art Customer Support and Spare Parts Services. Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited The merger of the Group activities has resulted in a wide range of synergies in the service, care solutions and developments, with benefits for the customers. VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA Is ready to provide the region with high class Textile machines with cost effectiveness and the best support.With its corporate office located at Coimbatore with a strength of about 250 people and sales and service offices at Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad, Kolhapur and Thane covering the whole product range of the group .This will enforce the support and strength towards the company’s Indian customers and increase its customer centricity.


Be prepared.

Autocard The new Autocard has been developed to create further value in the fibre preparation chain. The flexible portfolio offers the right solutions for preparation of all kinds of staple fibres for the subsequent processes. The right combination of blow room and carding ensures excellent fibre utilisation and sliver quality for high efficiency and yarn quality in spinning.

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07.02.22 12:27


INTERVIEW

YARN ORDERS FOR NEXT 3 MONTHS LINED UP : JAYESH PATEL Omax Cotspin Pvt. Ltd, located at Dhrangadhra, Gujarat, is one of the fastest growing textile companies in international markets with all the modern integrated facilities in 25 acres of land with 75000 spindle age capacity. Jayesh Patel, Director at Omax Cotspin, replied to a questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: What were the Challenges that you faced during the Pandemic? How did you handle them?

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uring the first wave of Covid-19, it was weak demand: we were feeling that demand has weakened across most of the industries due to weak consumer sentiment, job losses, and as consumers defer their non-discretionary purchases and focus on buying essential items. The supply chain disruptions: The curb on movement of people and non-essential goods has affected the supply chain, leading to shortage of raw materials. The coronavirus outbreak in major raw material supplying has affected due to movement of raw materials across the country. Labour/capacity underutilization: The exodus of unemployed migrant laborers to their native places has further added to the ongoing problems of industries. The worry remains whether they will return to work soon given their recent traumatic experience of job losses and travel hardships. The shortage of manpower and shorter duration of work hours have affected the capacity utilization of industries and there is no clear sign when normalcy

will return due to the ongoing uncertainty about finding a cure for the pandemic. Workforce health and business in “New Normal”: Maintaining the health of workers in “New Normal” also remains a challenging task for industries in the absence of proper guidelines. They had to temporarily shut down due to the coronavirus pandemic. ... For established companies, the challenges came from increased administrative bottlenecks, and issues with reduced logistics services and infrastructures, The complete lockdown and partial lockdowns had both demand-side and supply-side impacts on the manufacturing sector. On the supply side, the limited movement of goods, services, and personnel affected the production network. The situation improved gradually and confidence towards the business outlook for production rose as a phased reopening of the economy was announced. However, with this recovery and subsequent gradual reopening of the economy, the country succumbed to a second wave of the virus.

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A second wave was witnessed towards the end of the 2020 financial year. The country’s optimistic recovery was thrust into further uncertainty as cases increased far more rapidly than the first wave. The fatality rate amongst individuals increased as several States introduced restrictions and curfews to mitigate the loss of life in the second wave. Healthcare infrastructure in the country faced a total collapse as citizens ran helter-skelter in search of beds, oxygen cylinders, and resources to survive the second wave. This widespread devastation further instilled fear amongst the citizens as new variants proved to be more potent leading to a mass breakout in the Tier I cities and a surge in the rural regions. This led to individuals being confined to their homes, more out of choice and fear. The number of people working during the second wave was much smaller as compared to those working during the first wave, which translated to slower economic recovery. With lockdowns slowly being reimposed, States allowed certain relaxations and permissions to keep the economic impact to a minimum. While the second wave is expected to upset economic growth, the overall impact is expected to be moderate as businesses and States have adjusted their businesses and cycles to the COVID situation prevalent. In the handling of pandemic corona, we ensured effective communication with employees. How leaders behave during critical moments leaves a lasting mark on their companies and people. Therefore, a consistent and effective communication and interaction with employees have strengthen the company and enhanced the culture. We shared the up-to-date and relevant information about COVID-19 symptoms and disease prevention recommendations among company employees. We used only credible sources of information, such as the World Health Organization. We have established a dedicated hotline or conduct a series of remote seminars with relevant health professionals to facilitate question and answer sessions with your employees. Besides, we provided a psychological and financial support to our employees, such as emergency assistance, additional insurance coverage, regular

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payroll payments. We focused on organising a safe work environment: purchase of medical equipment and supplies (e.g., thermometers, antibacterial products such as mask sanitizer), self-monitoring of employees’ health, and disinfection of workplaces. We developed and communicated clear rules and obligations for employees who are at risk These include the requirement for a 14-day self-isolation of such employees and cancellation of all meetings with the clients and co-workers. We have ensured the safety of working environments by thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting workplaces. In the event that an employee is suspected of being infected with COVID-19, a clear process must be in place for removing that employee from the facility, and for proper treatment of the facility. We updated our travel and meeting policies. Besides, we made sure that your social media policy is properly defined for this crisis. It is provided clear guidelines with regard to how employees can talk about your business and the impact of COVID-19 on operations and employee health and safety. We provided employees with an internal communication channel to report what they are seeing and feeling within the organisation to ensure direct communication as an alternative to social media. We worked through the most difficult scenarios and prepared appropriate communications for our employees in advance because our task is to provide a constructive response.

As you are involved in 3 sectors: Garment, Fabric & Yarn, so how is the situation now? The domestic textile industry, which had seen demand slump in fiscal 2021 owing to onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, is firmly on course to recover in fiscal 2022 on the back of reopening of businesses, educational institutions and retail outlets with increase in the vaccinated population. The Government announcements such as the Production Linked Incentive scheme, setting up of mega textile parks, and extension of the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme are also supporting the sector. The global textile industry is changing to meet the needs of the new market. With new trends in technology, domestic sales, green textiles and environmental sustainability, textiles will no longer just be clothing anymore. These


new trends have started to increase growth in the market as well. We recognised both the opportunity and the responsibility for business to take a lead role in addressing pressing global issues. As we continue to embrace change and position our company for long-term success, we believe that CR will help us achieve sustainable growth by managing risk, maximizing efficiency and driving value. Through our collective efforts, we seek to create value for society, the environment, and our business, all while moving the industry. Explore opportunities for automation and efficiency upliftment as well as plan and implement up-skilling of employees to prepare them for the re-engineered processes/ systems. There is a high demand for yarn. There are orders for the next three months lined up. The textile industry continues to be the second-largest employment generating sector in the India

Tell us about the Research and Development efforts in the last few years. We have undertaken a CO 2 PROJECT to reduce CO2 emissions and energy consumption for our suppliers to stabilise our environmental impact. We have launched a GREEN COMPACT PROJECT. We have converted normal spinning into compact spinning yarn to increase the production, quality to value addition. We have presented recycled product. Rotor spinning also known as open-end spinning has been taken up. It uses a carded sliver that is fed onto a succession of single-spiked rollers that run at high speed. These rollers open the sliver so that the fibres can be fed almost individually via an airstream onto a grooved funnel that spins at a fast rate. In Compact spinning, the Elite Compact spinning system incorporated for 23000 spindles, which organises fibres in a parallel, close position before twisting, thereby reducing hairiness and improving tenacity. It also reduces imperfections. It improves evenness and reduces the ends-down rate.

What about the technologies and machinery for all the segments? We have installed bobbin transport system in unit 1 spinning. We have incorporated spindle monitor-

ing system. The mill has installed pinters individual monitoring system. This helps us in avoiding rough spindles idle spindles. the automatic winders are connected with visual manager and integrated with smart support system. Through this we can monitor daily performance. We have also incorporated roving stop motion in all the spinning to control the roving waste.

Which are the New Products that you have launched for these 3 Sectors & what are their USPs? In yarn: 1. Compact yarn. 2.Recycle yarn. 3.Lycra yarn. 4.Organic yarn In Knitting: 1. Rib type. 2.Lycra. 3.Honey comb. 4.Picku. 5.Two thread fleecy. 6.Single rib. 7.Lycra rib. 8.Turbe. Drop needles In garment: 1. Basic rib neck. 2.T Shirt. 3.P Q-T Shirt. Brand: Indian Archers

What are the different fabrics and yarns that you make? Omax Cotspin has a production line which can manufacture yarns of various counts ranging from 16s to 50s hosiery weaving yarn. The production capacity is around 50000 kg per day. We have also started manufacturing fancy yarns such as LYCRA & SLUB. Omax Cotspin has a production line which can manufacture OE yarns from count range to 4s to 20s with the production capacity of 20000 kg per day. In knitting fabrics, Omax Cotspin has extended its capability into knitting and hosiery fabrics, manufactured with our own best quality of yarn. The fabric width will be ranging from 18 diameters to 40 diameters. We are also into manufacturing LYCRA & SLUB Knitted Fabric.

Future of your company in the years 2022-2023? The textile industry is expected to attract higher investment by 2022-23 and create about 35 million additional jobs in the process. Exports are also expected to rise. The upcycle fashion uses either pre-consumers or post-consumer’s wastes to manufacture new products. The process reuses old clothes without going through the recycling process. The fashion industry is going to be more sustainable with repaired, redesigned, and upcycled fashion.

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1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com

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Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).


INTERVIEW

MORE ROOM FOR MODERNISATION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY : S.K.CHATTOPADHYAY Dr. S. K. Chattopadhyay retired from CIRCOT in 2020 after having worked for nearly four decades in various capacities in mills. Presently, he is a freelancer in academics, research journal publication and machine learning application in factory automation. Dr. Chattopadhyay replied exclusively to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: Share your Education and Professional Journey

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passed West Bengal Higher Secondary Examination in first division in 1974 and was awarded a National Scholarship. I opted for a professional engineering degree course in Textile Technology under Calcutta University and passed the same with a first class in 1978. I joined Kesoram Cotton Mills Limited (now, KesoramIndustries Limited) Kolkata and started my professional career. Thereafter, I worked in HindoostanSpinning and Weaving Mills Limited (Thackersey Group) Mumbai in the years 1979-81. I did my full-time Master degree in Textile Engineering from IIT Delhi in 1983 and joined the Raebareli unit of U. P. State Spinning Mills Co No.1 as the Quality Control Incharge. Thereafter, I cleared the Agricultural Research Services (ARS) examination and joinedCentral Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), then

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known as Cotton Technological Research Laboratory (CTRL), Mumbai,under the control ofIndian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR). I worked there in various capacities such as, Scientist, Senior Scientist, Principal Scientist, Head of the Mechanical Processing Division and Director, before retiring in February 2020.Presently, I am working as a freelancer in academics, research journal publication and machine learning application in factory automation.

Being a researcher and educationist, tell your journey in industry and research, and the interaction The 40-year full time professional journey was challenging, but engrossing and interesting. The feeling was exhilarating, as throughout the journey for about four decades, the technology was constantly churning and upgrading. I was witnessing innovations more often in the industry, and


there wasurgency to adapt quickly to the changes and bring out more innovations to be relevant in the industry. It was indeed a roller coaster ride, which was immensely satisfyingthen. I presume that the same was thefeelingof my contemporaries. When I joined the industry,the basic calculators were not available in the shop floor and the very first lesson of the training was to remember square roots ofall thread numbers and intermediate roving hank numbers by-heart to facilitate quick twist setting on the spinning machines. In the quality control lab, the most prized equipment was Filden-Walker first generation yarn evenness tester, which is now a prized collection inthe London Science Museum and Bradford Industrial Museum (UK).During the period, thoughmanyspinning millswere aggressively modernising their machines with Top Arm Drafting system replacing the iconicCasablanca system, the mill owners in general were not convinced with the replacement of old and lengthy blowroom line with a shorter version equipped with modern beaters and cleaners, due to high cost associated with such a replacement. This was the time when the organised sector was slowly losing the grip on fabric productionto the rising decentralisedpowerloom sector. The wet processing of textiles was the real woe, depending fully on the dyeing masters’ experience and bereft of any concern for the environment. After joining CIRCOT in 1985, I initiated a research programme on causes and control of faults in Indian cotton yarns,which was then a burning problem of the spinning industry, regularly receiving complaintsfrom thegrowing export markets. We procured an electronic fault classifying equipment which was quite expensive in those days, and therefore, only two other machines were available in Mumbai then. My institute also, under my initiative and supervision,monetised this gap in the industry, and allowed mills to take advantage of the facility for assessing their yarns, conducted a number of diagnostic mill vs. laboratory trials, androped in students of the textile institutes to do their dissertationsto investigate the problem and suggested measures to contain faults in Indian yarn. It is hearting to note that Indian spinning industry is now producing the best of the yarn quality, particularly in terms of evenness, imperfections and faults.

Even many mills are achieving a quality better than the Uster 5% world standard, compared to 25% or even poorer quality yarns, which many mills were producing before the 1990s. I think this isto be regarded as the single most significantachievement in which I was fully involved, and was collectively brought in by the joint efforts of the industry, research, and educational institutions. My field of research broadly included post-harvest processing and blending of fibres, development of machines for small sample spinning, modern spinning systems (rotor, air-jet and DREF friction), yarn splicing,poly lactic acid (PLA)fibres,technical textiles, and composites. In mid-1990s, through some market study, my team found that though there was a good demand for miniature spinning machines for producing yarn from small fibre samples, such machines were not available in India. The option was to import machines with a pretty old design, and ata veryhigh price, which was not desirable. Therefore, me and my team, took up developing entirely miniature modern spinning machines, initially controlled by microprocessor, then by programmable logic control (PLC) and finally, by personal computer (PC).Though the designing of the miniature machines was a technically challenging task which we could successfully do, thefurther major challenge wasto convince anentrepreneur to replicate the machines and manufacture them at one fourth the cost of the imported one. This challenge was also resolved by us and it gives me immense satisfaction that, the licensee who collaborated with us has produced and sold more than hundreds of such machinesto various stakeholders, who found the system/machineshandy, useful and economical. Further, the research done by my team on utilisation of indigenous short and fine wool including Angora rabbit-hairs in blends with cotton for production of finer quality of woven and knitted fabrics, and for production of finer cotton-ramie blended yarns by adopting commercial cotton spinning system were unprecedented, and attracted much attention from the peers. We compared the performance of Indian cottons and their blends on ring, rotor and air-jet spinning systemsas early as in the 1990s, shortly after commercialization of the air-jet spinning machines.

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My doctorate thesis has dealt with the formulation of a theoretical model to predict the fibre twistinghappening inside a rotating rotor that is inaccessible and cannot be seen in our view during the rotor spinning process.The model has emphasised the need of fibre engineering for quality yarn spinning and has experimentally validated. Then, under funding from the National Agricultural Innovation Project (NAIP), I was the Co-Consortium Project Investigator (CCPI) in two subprojects. Under the Basic and Strategic Research subproject of NAIP, I notably participated in the design and development of textile reinforced rubber dams for regulating water flow in a watershed for its storage, ground recharging and assured water supply in lean times. The development hasmade possibleto enhance crop productivity and cropping intensity in the project area, and many units have been installed in watersheds across the country, benefitting the farmers. In the other subproject on value chain for coconut fibre and its by-products, basic machines for extraction,segregation of coarse and fine fibres, scientific fibre grading, product diversification have been achieved. Besides conducting many industry sponsored studies, I, along with my colleagues have publishedin national and international journalsand presented in seminars and conferencesabout 300 research and technical papers, book chapters and leafletsemanating from our various research studies.I have received a number of recognitions and awards for my contribution in research. In the last leg of my active research career, I inspired two bright young scientiststo join me in groundbreaking research using plant waste bio-macromolecule extractsfor preparation of sustainableflame resisting and UV protective cellulosic textiles that has now received wide international attention. The Latest Science (Abraham Thomas Foundation, USA) has acknowledged our contributionfor making an impact on scientific knowledge in Material Science and as a mark of recognition, displayed on their website, thesurface topography of the char residue of fire retardant cellulose reported by us for the first time.

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As a Mentor, what qualities and capabilities you looked for in your post-graduate studentsand young scientist colleagues while involving them into research projects and what qualities you inculcate in them, when they work with you? For a good number of years, I co-guided many textile technologypost-graduate students from reputed engineering institute like VJTI, Mumbai.Besides, from time to time, I,as the lead investigator, was guiding those research fellows and associates recruited in various time-bound externally funded projects, including two subprojects of National Agricultural Innovation Project (NAIP) of ICAR, funded by the WorldBank. In my long service in CIRCOT, I chose from time to time many younger colleague scientists and technical officers to be associated in the investigation of the projects formulated by me and mentored them. Particularly, when I was the Director of the institute, I could get about eight new young scientists to join CIRCOT and mentor them for research career. In a young researcher,I always looked for their thorough involvement in the investigation of the problem, inclination to be involved in painstaking experimentations, integrity in data collection and recording and logical thinking. My mentoring involves not only in guiding them in conducting a fair investigation, but also in the analysis of collected data, modification of experiments, repeatand confirmation study, participation in draft report preparation and publication in a reputed/standard journal. Often, I have observed that though the technical and scientific content of research is excellent, but the paper is denied publication because of its poor presentation, obscure language and avoidable errors. Colleges do not teach how to write a good scientific paper.This task requiresmentoring to the young researchers onhow to write an error-less and fluid paperthat will impress upon and convey the science behind the experiment effectively to the reviewersand the readers. With the availability of online ‘Editorial Manager’ and publication software, most international journals engage the services of 3 to 10 peer reviewers to review a submission, for publication. Often, a manuscript is rejected due to its poor readability. This was not much of a problem earlier, as the journal used to


get it improved by itslanguage editor without any charge. But many journals have now discontinued the service, and instead, ask the author to avail a paid language service. A researcher based in the third world countries may not find it easy to pay the charge in dollars of his own. Therefore, as a mentor, while critically reviewing the technical content in their papers, Iused to polish and rectify my juniors’ written English language, stressing the need of writing a research paper in simple sentences, so that the readability of the manuscript improves.

What are the latest trends and futuristic developments in the spinning industry? Ring frame is the oldest and versatile yarn spinning machine, came into market ever since Whitin Machine Works started manufacturing it in the 1840s. Even though the basic technology of ring spinning remain largely unchanged, the machine design has undergone significant developments over the years for improved performance, as the industry still prefers it for its capacity to spin a wide range of yarn count (linear density) from almost any type of staple fibres. Ring frame producesa unique, superior quality of yarn compared to those yarns produced by the newer spinning systems like rotor, air-jet/ air vortex spinning systems, which are available in the market for the last 30-50 years. This is despite the restricted rate of yarn production due to limitations in spindle speed, high-power consumption, traveller wear, heat generation and yarn tension.As such, the productivity of each ring spindle is about 1/10th of a rotor spinning and 1/20th of the air jet spinning machines. While the rotor spinning is mostly limited to coarse yarn production, and the vortex spinning to polyester blended yarns in the medium to fine count range, thering spinning can traverse in allareas of spun yarn production. In fact, its latest commercially successfulvariant, the compact ring spinning, introduced by a couple of manufacturers at ITMA 1999 Paris exhibitionis the preferred machine nowadays.Presently, with about 230 million installed spindles world over, ring spinning is producing thethree-quarter of the total staple yarn of around 45 million tons produced. So, one can safely deduce that the ring spinning will remain the undisputed leader in the staple yarn production and continue to dominate the restin this century too. The maximum spindle speed of themost advanced

spinning frame is currently about 25,000 rpm limited by the ring-traveller speed of about 45 m/s, beyond which the traveller gets burnt due to excessive friction while moving on the ring. Efforts are in full force in the R&D labs of various machine manufacturers and institutions to tackle the criticality of the process andmake a breakthrough in productivity. Research is mainly directed in three sensitive design issues of the ring frame, (i) reduction of friction between the ring and the traveller, like using the Orbit technology, where the contact surface between the ring and traveller has been enlarged by 4~5times for better heatdissipation (ii)modifying the ring-traveller system altogether, say by using a superconducting magnetic bearing (SMB) system to create a frictionless twisting during spinning, and (iii) reduction of yarn twist to increase the productivity, like in Nu-Torque technology, which incorporates a false twister to lower twisting rate during spinning. The big question is whether in future anyone or more such futuristic technology will succeed and double the ring spindle speed to 50,000 rpm, say by the year 2050. Concerning the developments of the preparatory machines to yarn spinning, the past tendency was to keep on increasing the production speeds and simultaneously improving, or at least maintainingthestatus quo in the processed material quality. Besides a great deal of effortswere put to achieve a near perfect opening and cleaning, and removing undesirable short fibres from cotton, auto control of material uniformity, increasingcapacities of intermediate packages, their auto-doffingand auto transport to the next machine. It appears that spinning preparatory machines have already reached to an admirable level of technology and the fact that the production capacity of preparatory section is higher than the actual spinning need, will deter the developments to continue in the similar fashion. In near future,manyapplications of computer science is expected. The machines themselves will decide how to adjust and run optimally based on the analysis of big past data (machine learning and artificial intelligence) without any interference of the technical supervisors, as is in the vogue now. Remote supervision and servicing of machines (Internet of Thing) will get significant importance. I will elaborate these terms in the later part of my interview. The advent of robots in large scale is also not ruled out, as the

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absolute purity of fibre processing to spin yarns can be best preserved, if human beings refrain from touching fibres and manipulating them.

How has the textile industry technologically evolved in the last few years? The industry needs enormous drivingforce to equip itself with the latest technologies and upgrades, as the action is highly capital intensive. The sector has become the most severely affected among manufacturing sectors due to the novel Coronavirus pandemic, prevailing for last two years. Before that also, the industry was experiencing sluggish demand in export markets and rising competitionfrom countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh, China, andTurkey. The cascading effect of external demand shock along with domestic demand slack has resulted in lower production in all sectors of the industry. However, government initiatives to bolster the industry have raised hopes. At the forefront of the industryis the relativelymodernisedspinning sectorthathas gained global eminence with 30% market share for being a dependable supplier of quality yarns. India hasthe second-largest staple yarn spinning capacity withabout 48 million installed ring spindles, and producing approximately 6 billion kilograms of yarn.Under the prevailing situation, a large-scale further capacity augmentation, which we have witnessed in the past, cannot be expected. Mostly the spinningmills are upgrading technology, like replacing conventional ring frames with compact spinning, selectivelyacquiringrotor spinning for coarser yarn production and air-vortex machines for polyester blended yarn spinning. Acquisition of key technologies, like contamination detector, modern carding and combing machines, auto-doffing and other automation systems,including the latest generation of link winder with yarn cleaning system etc.,continues in the priority list, mainly aimed at maintaining the competitive edge in the yarn export market. The spinning industry still has older machines with about 15 million spindle capacity,which areproducing yarn inefficiently and need to be discarded or replaced with modern machines, so the sector is labelled as the fully modernized industry. Coming to weaving sector, 97% ofabout 76 thousand million square meters of fabrics (excluding Khadi, Wool, and Silk), are producedannually in the country

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by the decentralisedpowerloomsector. However, this sector intrinsically lacks modernisation, and is believed to have only 4% modern shuttleless looms out of about 25 lakhs installed capacity. As oftoday, most of the production is made with semi-automatic looms. But, thanks to the various policy interventions by the Governmentperiodically, the situation is improvingwith the sector adopting more and more automatic and shuttleless looms. The recent thrust of GOI to augment production of indigenous technical textile will also encourage the sector for weaving more of synthetics,heavier and higher width fabrics, that will invariably force the industryto adopt more modern looms. The Indian textile wet processing sector is on the course of erasing the infamous label on it being one of the most polluting industries, thanks to the growing public awareness and concerns related to global warming, climate change, green-house-gas emission, carbon footprint, water scarcity, sustainability, etc.The sector has about 2500 units, out of which about 200 is in the organised sector, and the rest as micro, small and medium enterprise (MSME) manufacturers, making the modernisation a challenging task. The sector is slowly adopting or considering proactive measures, like combined scouring and bleaching,ultra-low liquor ratio machines, supercritical CO2 dyeing,combined dyeing and finishing,enzyme based biodegradable chemicals, low foam surfactants, bio-scouring, non-fluoro water repellents, zero discharge of hazardous chemicals (ZDHC),halogen free flame retardants, micro-encapsulated coatings, one bath one-step dyeing for polyester-cotton blended fabrics,high fixative dyes,digital printing, sublimation printing, efficient solvent recovery, etc. In the garmenting sector, out of about one lakh units in the country, 80% are in micro, small and medium enterprise (MSME) manufacturers, rest 20% in the organised sector that mainly caters to the export markets. The garment production was at about 22 billion pieces in 2019-20, while made-ups stood at approx. 2.4 billion kg. India exported garments worth US$15,509 million and made-ups of about US$6,941 million in the said year.The sector is equipping with or considering adoption of new technologies such as,high-speed sewing machines, laser-cutting machines, new pressing and fusing machines, buttonhole machines, seam


bonding machines, seamless garment, digital and 3Dprinting, computer-aided design CAD), assembly line automation, computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). Across the board, the Indian textile industry is experiencing a tremendous growth potential due to various technological advancements, automation and artificial intelligence in machinery and processes, data-driven customer operations, application of data analytics in decision-making, besides eco-consciousness and increasing concern on manufacturing circularity.In testimony thereof, the industry has become an attractive destination for FDI, thanks to the recent policyinitiatives of the GOI.

Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste management how it’s relevant and important? It’s just a talk of the town or any fruitful measures taken by industry? These are the trending terms nowadays in everybody’s mind, as the world, including India, bolsters its effort towards achieving net-zerocarbon emission to protect the earthand make it eternallyliveable for our future generation.Sustainability is a system or practice that should be adhered in our life, profession, business, service, collective and co-operative actions, so that we take from the earth only those resources that are easily renewable. This will do no harm to the environment and allow meeting the needs of the current generation without affecting the potential needs of the future generations.Waste control and management including using energy and water efficiently, are important means to attain and maintain the wheel of sustainability, On the other hand, carbon footprint is an indicator or a measure of sustainability. It is the total amount of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, including carbon dioxide and methane which are generated by us and by our actions, and expressed as carbon-dioxide equivalent (CO2e). Needless to say, lower is the carbon footprint, the better we are doing for the sustainability of the earth. These terms may appear new to the textile industry, but it is many times resorting to discrete measures on an incremental basis to reduce their adverse impact.I give a few examples. Installation of variable frequency drive (VFD) system, soft-starter along with energy-efficient motors,

improving power factor, use of lighter-weight yarn and fabric package, lighter spindle, efficient spindle oil in bolsters, sandwich jointless tape, lighter-weight pulley in place of drum driving the ring spindles, use of false-ceiling and return hot-air from pneumafils in spinning shop floor, optimum ring diameter relative to yarn package and balloon setting, intermittent movement of empty conveyor, use of steam heating in place of electric heating, use of mist nozzles for yarn conditioning, FRP impellers in fans replacing aluminum ones, combined treatments in wet processing, bath recovery system, counterflow current washing, cold treatments, continuous washing, heat recovery unit, HTHP machines, enzymatic scouring and washing, use of sensors and control system, less water and less temperature wet processing, treatment of dye house effluents to recover chemicals and water for reuse, etc. Since 1980s, Indian textile industries are adopting various suchmeasures to reduce the cost of production by saving raw materials, chemicals, energy, water, compressed air, and adopting waste recovery and reuse measures.Thus,even when the sustainability issue was not of much concern world-over, the textile industry adopted measures which have acted beneficially in improving the sustainability of the industry. Needless to say, much is desired to be done, particularly in extending the coverage to the medium and small sectors of the industry. The point to be noted is that when we are in textile production business, it is just not feasible notto harm anything. We cannot adhere to the very basic definitions of sustainability stated aboveas a whole. What is possible and important in this juncture is that we go on reducing consumption of non-renewable raw materials for textile production, hunt for alternate source of renewable inputs including energy, stop using harmful chemicals, not drain them in the environment, and go extra-miles to ensure that whatever we produce or discard during the manufacture, is reused to the maximal. In this context, the definition given by K. Fletcher (2009) is more practical and should be the policy guideline for the textile industry. He stated, “A sustainable product is one that is manufactured in such a way that it has the lowest possible adverse effect on the environment. e.g., by making the most efficient use of resources such as water and energy and which goes the extra mile to recover raw materials, e.g.,

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by the recycling of as much water as possible or by recovering the heat from wastewater discharges”. What is more important is that the industry must include a sustainability agenda in the business policy and ensure an acceptable auditing.It should periodicallyself-declare the various indicators of sustainability it has attained, and the time-bound goal it has set for the organisation. The industry association like CITI should come forward and take the lead in setting the quantitative and qualitative norms for each segment of the textile industryfor a positive environmental impact, rather than the government set norms by legislation or foreign buyers insist on certain norms as a pre-condition to buy Indian textiles. This apart, another essential concern for the textile industry is the circularity of production of both goods and wastes throughout the value chain. If nothing is thrown out as rubbish for landfills in the earth and emissions released in the environment are controlled, and ifthe remnants of the product at the end of their lifecycles,as well as the discards are reprocessed and reused, much will be done to improve the sustainability. Indeed, Panipat’s textile recycling units in the decentralised sector are doing an impressive job by processing textile wastes collected through their network and turning the waste into useful products for reuse. Various actions for circularity of the economy should be in-built in the quest for attaining the sustainability goal of the production unit.Today’s Indian textile industry economy is mostly of a linear nature, Take–Make–Waste. It must be turned into a circular withthe order of using the non-sustainable raw materials and chemicals as, Avoid—Alternative— Reduce—Reuse—Recycle.The earlier we transform, the better is the sustainability of the nation.

How Data Analysis, Machine Learning, AI, Block Chain is important for the industry and how we can implement in textile and apparel industry? These are emerging developments in the field of computer science, but not limited to only companies dealing with information technology. They are being increasingly used by other industries as well to optimize the resources, bring post-production and customer experience in a seamless loop, and run the business intelligently empowered by improved data analytics. In fact, these are some important

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components of the Fourth Industrial Revolution that has poised to redefine traditional boundaries of the present industries, not only to change the way we work and relate to one another, butalso, to createmany new opportunities.The textile industry cannot remain insulated from such spectacular developments. In the past, the industry has adopted all significant developments made inthe first to third industrial revolutions, got enriched technologically and reached to the present height of phenomenal success. In the same way, sooner or letter, the textile and apparel industry is going to adopt and implement all the beneficial technologies of the present industrial revolution to empower itself and convert every production unit as a ‘smart’ factory. As such, big data and machine learning are different from each other, but these two hot trending technologies are used in combination for a successful business. The input to the machine learning algorithms is the information extracted by analysis of big data. This input is then learned by the machine learning models to predict the desired outputs.We all use data in our profession as well as in daily life for better understanding of events, and for decisionmaking. But these are relatively ‘small’ data, and often we may use Excel like spreadsheet or other dedicated computer programmes for analysis of the data and its interpretation. But as the world turns more and more into digital, we areoften fed with huge amount of data, better known as big data that cannotbe handled the way we are handling small data.Giving example from the textile field say, visualinspection of fabric defects post-weaving is traditionally done on an illuminated inspection frame, where only a limited number of defects on a restrictive scale per unit time can be recorded, and classification of defects is done manually. However, if the inspection can be performed by capturing images of the portions of the fabric continually with a high-speed camera during the manufacturing process itself, it is possible to gather a massive data on fabric defects rapidly and perform anerrorless classification based on the algorithm. In this case, we will be dealing with big data on non-conformities in our fabric production. Big data is typically characterisedby ‘5V’s namely, Volume (of data), Variety (different types of data), Velocity (speed at which the datais gathered and processed), Veracity (quality and consistency of data), and Value


(usefulness of the data after extraction of information and interpretation). Machine learning (ML) on the other hand, enables machines/computers to learn from experiences (i.e., from information provided by big data) to find out patterns, insights, learn more and make decisions without human intervention (i.e., without explicitly doing the programming). Thus, instead of writing code, we just feed big data to the generic algorithm, and the algorithm itself builds the logic based on the given input data.Big data analytics is all about collecting and transforming raw data into extracted information, and this data information is then used by the machine learning algorithms to predict better results or future without or with minimal human intervention. The machine learning is a subset of AI (artificial intelligence). In our example of capturing big data on fabric defects, ML can do numerous classifications of defects, including identification of source and cause of defects based on its algorithms and continuous learning fromthe extracted information. Artificial Intelligence (AI) is also known as machine intelligence, since it mimics the human thought process and enables machines to function on their own similar to human intelligence, like the ability to perceive, learn, reason, and act. It concerns development of intelligent or smart machines, those can think and work like humans. In our cited example on fabric defect detection, at present a trained ‘human being’ working on the inspection tableapplies his logic and decides whether a fabric with a particular defect is to be altogether rejected or it is to be allowed after mending the defect manually with a hand tool. In future, this job of the human being is likely to be simulated by an AI-powered robot that will apply logic more rationally and accurately, and mend the defects precisely and tirelessly. Thus, when acting in fusion, these three technologies, namely Big Data Analytics, ML and AI are likely to bring disruptive changes in textile productions and businesses. A blockchain is essentially a digital ledgeror record of transactions that allow digital information or transaction to be recorded and distributed, but

not edited.Every time a new transaction occurs on the blockchain, a record of that transaction is added to every participant’s ledger. Itbeing an immutable ledger, the said transaction cannot be altered, deleted, or destroyed. As the decentralised database is managed by multiple participants in a blockchain, it is also known as Distributed Ledger Technology (DLT).Currently the blockchain is used for management of complex textile/apparel supply chain characterised by a vast network of manufacturers, warehouses, transport depots, communication channels and logistic providers, each managing own databases and logistics. In a blockchain, flow of data happens continuously in a real time and the same is visible to all permitted parties, as it is a single immutable ledger, in contrast to commonly adopted conventional mutable multiple ledgers with fragmented data. Thus, the blockchain allows a retailer to build more customer-centric supply chains that prioritize authentication and trust. The other likelyapplications of blockchain will be comparing daily productivity of different textile units, may be located in different places by a single converted yarn count or fabric sort. It can also provide insight on short fall in production, digital provenance of apparel brands to prevent counterfeiting, displaying of sustainable and ethical credentials, tracking of lifecycle of a textile product from raw material to design and sale, use and then resale and recycling. The Internet of Things (IoT) refers to numerousmachines (physical devices) around the world that are now connected to the Internet, all collecting and sharing data. An example of IoT application that is getting faster application in textile industry is theremote machine servicing platform that also includes electronic hardware, embedded sensors, production process monitoring system, predictive maintenance algorithms, etc. In case of a breakdown, the machines can be serviced remotely, without needing the physical presence of an expert service engineer in the production site. If needed, even the corrupted machine programme can be replaced by uploading a fresh programmeremotelythrough the internet only. This will reduce the downtime of the machine and servicing cost, thereby improving the productivity of the unit.

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We can expect exciting developments to happen in the textile sector by adopting these new technologies.No doubt, it is a long way for the Indian textile manufacturing units before they get transformed into smart factories.

How Research and Development is a part of important process in the industry, industry adoption, investment of same. R&D should be an integral agenda of the innovation led textile industry. Since the industry is operating in the private sector, handsome private funding particularly for conducting applied and strategic research to meet the organisation’s specific short-termrequirements is to be ensured. For long-term researches, which are of basic in nature and require multidisciplinary expertise, the industry should sponsor the problem-solving to educational and research institute. While most of the units in the organisedtextile sector have their own in-house R&D setups, often recognised by the Department of Science and Technology (DST) and are doing what is necessary for their requirements, the same is not the case for the units in the decentralised sectors. Good researchdemands significant funding. It is suggested that a national level fund for textile education and research be created by levying a suitable cess on trade of textile materials, besides ensuring active industry participation in textile education and research. Such fund to be allocated to the institutes on competitive basis, judging the novelty, strength, and industry participation in the submitted proposal. This is vital for the growth of innovations in the sector that is structurally fragmented anddecentralised in nature.

Educationist research hardly applied on commercial production of the industry, what is the reasons, setbacks and how we can integrate industry with educationist to get maximum productivity of research The statement is not fully true. Incremental research and the knowledge generated therein has reached the industry and are adopted by it. Unlike in the agricultural field, where the beneficial outputs of the research need to carried to the small and marginal farmers (i.e., the stakeholders) in a positive mode for

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obvious reason of their poor capability in accessing information of their own, the textile industry is fairly equipped with qualified personnel, who themselves gather the various technical developments around them and from the world. I have already given the example of the period of 1990s, when the spinning industry was pressured from the export market to improve yarn quality, various institutions provided the necessary research support. Today, the industry is producing the best quality of yarn. The annual Joint Technological Conference and other seminars do a good job of research disseminations from the research and educational institutes.However, the weak link between the educational/research institute and the textile industry is not a denying fact. Often, the average student quality and also, the research emanating from the institutes are not meeting the expectations of the industry.One biggest lacuna is the absence of an exclusive university on textile sciences in the country, that can oversee the standard of education and research to maintain them not only to the desired quality, but also keep them comparable with the best in the world.It is to be borne in mind that today’s textile technology is highly diverse and complex, dealing with not only a few natural fibres, but a host of synthetic fibres of different origin, using varied yarn making systemsandwoven, nonwoven, knitting and braided fabric making machines,colouring and finishing processes, garmenting or otherwise, for both apparels and technical applications. Anotherlacuna isthe lack of information on how the Indian industry is technologically moving. Presently, we get some broad information on installed machinery capacity and production figures. But for a better insight on the technological strength of the industry, to format textile education and research and policy formulation, detailed technology wise information on installed capacity and production data are desired. Hopefully, the Office of the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles (MOT, GOI) is in the process of collecting such valuable statistics regularly, via their web based Online Return System. Since time immemorial, India is known for textiles, for its innovativeness, uniqueness, as well as diversity. Now, we may be experiencing disadvantage in terms of cost of production and discomfort in export market. But these are not difficult to overcome. What is needed is a will to change and adapt and assimilate the technologies for the betterment of the textile industry.


INTERVIEW

FROM PINS TO ROLLERS & MUCH MORE, BASANT FIBERTEK EXPANDS : KISHORE KHAITAN Basant Fibertek Pvt Ltd manufactures textile pins and a wide range of products for the spinning sector and other segments. Located in Rajasthan, the company has made rapid strides in the production of these products supported by high-tech technologies and machinery. The company has never rested on its laurels.Its Unit-II now is manufacturing rotors and opening rollers. Mr. Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director of the company is a well-known personality among the textile industry circle. He replied in details to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: What are the various products your company manufactures, especially for the spinning segment?

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e started with manufacturing Pins 58 years ago in 1964 and over the years expanded our product range to include a wide range of products for all types of Spinning proesses. We also manufacture some products for sectors other than Spinning and for non-textile applications too. For the Spinning sector, wemanufacture spiked lattices, pinned beaters for Blowroom, Chute feed opening rollers and Pinned Lickerins for cards. For Open-end Spinning, we set up a new advanced manufacturing facility, as our Unit II, to manufacture Rotors and Opening rollers for all makes of latest OE machines. Besides, we also manufacture Pinstrips for Worsted Spinning Gill Boxes used in woollen, acrylic and

silk spinning. For Linen Spinning preparatory lines Hackle pins and pinstrips as well as nylon Gills. We are also a major supplier to the recycling industry of pinned lags used for converting textile waste into fibres. Most of the large well-known Spinning Mills in India are our clients. We supply to many OEMs too besides many Mills abroad. What are their USPs and special characteristics? How are they better in terms of quality than cheaper imports? We are pioneers in India, having started manufacturing steel pins for textile machinery way back in 1964. Since then, we have diversified our product line and updated our technology with the best know-how from world’s leading companies in Germany and USA. Our USP is world class innovative products, application engineering and custom solutions to problems faced by Mills and the best value for money in terms of payback on investment. Another

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USP is our ability to innovate new and customised solutions to meet specific requirements of our clients, given our deep understanding about fibres and spinning and we producing our own pins. We have successfully been pioneers in developing many import substitute products indigenously, the lastest being Magnetic Rotors for fully automatic Rotor Spinning machines. We also hold international patents and registered designs for some of our products.

low cost. We have been able to raise production and quality while reducing cost for many of our recycling clients. We have plans for offering comprehensive support services to Spinning Mills and will share the details when the time comes.

How has your company managed the Covid times?

Let us know about new markets that you have opened up recently? We export 50% of our production to more than 40 countries in all five continents including Asia, Europe, America, Africa and Australia. Recently we have entered the CIS countries and plan to enlarge our presence in South America too.

We have grown our turnover by more than 110% over the pre-covid FY 2019-20. This has been possible only due to the trust and relationship we enjoy with our domestic and foreign clients. Our production suffered only for one month in each of the years 2020 and 2021 but due to the dedication and hard work of our employees, we were able to spring back strongly. We also used the Covid time to focus on innovation, cost reduction and adding new products and services to our range so that we can add more value to our clients and improve profitability.

Please do let us know about the technologies and machinery being utilised for the production?

What is your wish-list for the industry and also the Government to promote textile spares and accessories?

We use CNC machines and high level of automation in all our processes. We use more than 25 different technologies for manufacture of our products including wire working and heat treatment, surface finishing, injection moulding, CNC machining, ultrasonic equipment, dynamic balancing and electroplating, among others. In all our processes, we extensively use best manufacturing practices such as TPM. Lean manufacturing, Six Sigma, SQC and many others.

The Indian Government is not doing enough specially to encourage MSMEs in the make In India initiative. While the government did something for financial support during Covid, taxation is high, incentives for expansion as well as depreciation rates are very low, export incentives have reduced and the ecosystem for R&D and innovation is also insufficient. It will hugely help promote manufacture of textile machinery and parts in India if the government launches a TUF-like scheme for Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) also.

If in exports, where are your markets abroad?

What are your plans for the next phase of expansion and diversification? We recently completed a major expansion in 2021 to double our capacity for Pinned Rollers and lags as well as for OE components. Next expansion is planned in 2023. We are also aggressively investing in Sustainability. Our Unit II is a green building. We are installing rooftop solar to cover a major part of our power consumption, making efforts to reduce water consumption, increasing use of recyclable materials in packaging and taking several other ESG initiatives. We are also doing our bit in promoting recycling in the textile industry by providing highly cost-effective solutions, using pins in recycling machines, to regenerate fibres of high quality at a

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However, that said, I strongly believe that the companies engaged in the Indian TEI should think big and aspire to become global players in their line of product or service and adopt global standards of manufacturing, design and service in their operations. The other thing they should focus on is to understand the user needs more deeply and provide superior solutions to enable the mills improve their quality, productivity and cost competitiveness. Though the journey will be tough and challenging, it is certainly achievable and worthwhile. Indian Textile Industry can aspire to global leadership only if the backbone of TEI is strong to support that goal!


VISION To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery.

QUALITY POLICY KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology.

WHY KEN... Diverse product knowledge

Diverse manufacturing capability

Product development & Sampling are undertaken commercially

Ability to deliver & commitment to excellence

Organizational strength & backup to execute large institutional orders

Understanding of Customer needs & ability to service institutional customers to apparels

Technically qualified & competent team to service the customer needs

Fabric Design & Development capability Organization with 800 Members Team

CORPORATE OFFICE +91 230 243 8538

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9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA.

office@kenindia.in


INTERVIEW

SANGAM INDIA’S EXPORTS SOAR 114%, PLAN BIG EXPANSION: S.N. MODANI Established in 1984, Sangam India Ltd is one of the leading manufacturers in PV dyed yarn, cotton and OE yarn and also ready to stitch fabric. The company produces 35 million meters of PV fabric and 48 million meters of denim fabric annually. The Group has also introduced a seamless garment manufacturing facility with 52 seamless knitting machines. Sangam started with only eight weaving machines in 1984 and is now being recognised as a leading brand in the textile industry, with presence in over 50 countries.

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he company’s major expansion kick-started in 2014, as the group saw an increase in Denim capacity to 35 million meters p.a. Installation of state-of-the-art Seamless Garment Machines with a capacity of 3.6 lakhs pieces p.a. The next big step was venturing into the B2C market space with the launch of C9 Airwear, a casual wear & active wear apparel brand for women in 2015. C9 Airwear is available across 1000 multi brand outlets in India and all major digital retail portals. Dr. S N Modani, CEO & Managing Director, Sangam India Ltd replied to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts:

How has the Sangam Group managed the

Covid times for nearly two years? Covid-19 had a profound effect on the textile sector of India, forcing garment factories to shut down or work at half capacity to stem new cases. We saw a historic drop in local sales and exports at an industry level, which continued for the better half of 2021 as well. Sangam India took this opportunity to rework our strategy by improving internal efficiencies and focusing on the opportunities in the global market. We invested our time in refining our systems and processes to ensure our business readiness once the markets open. Now, with the vaccination drive in full swing and the markets bouncing back to pre-covid levels,

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the textile sector has also witnessed tremendous growth in the last 2 quarters, enabling us to operate at 90% capacity utilisation. The extra impetus given by us in laying down our export strategy paid rich dividends when our exports grew by 114% in Q3 FY 22.

Sangam Group signed an MoU with Rajasthan Government? Please give us some details. As a part of our larger expansion strategy, we signed an MoU with the Government of Rajasthan, to invest INR 1,521 crore to set up multiple manufacturing units focusing on Spinning, Weaving, Garments, Knitting and Processing in the Bhilwara district of Rajasthan. The funding for the same would be raised in a combination of debt, internal accruals and equity.

What is the current situation in yarn manufacturing? What are the plans for expansion/ diversification in the near future? SIL is running on optimum capacity utilisation and we feel there’s scope to increase market share across all our businesses. Our current focus is to expand our Yarn business and we have divided our expansion strategy into two phases. Over both phases, we would be installing 65,664 spindles for the manufacture of cotton yarn at Spinning Unit-II, Village Sareri, at an estimated cost of INR 274.5 crore. The expansion will pan out over the next 3

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We are also looking at expanding our Garments vertical by installing 106 knitting machines at an estimated cost of INR 157 crore. This project is proposed to be implemented under Production Linked Incentive Scheme (“PLI Scheme”).

Give us some information on performance in various Divisions?

export

Sangam India has posted a record sales of INR 1691 crore with our exports division contributing 36% at INR 607 crore (Yarn at Rs. 289cr, Fabric at Rs 316cr and Garments at Rs. 3cr). With this, the company’s exports have recorded an impressive jump of 114% on a YoY basis.

What should the Government and industry do to achieve the export targets? The Government has already introduced key incentives like Remission of Duties and Taxes on Export Products, Rebate of State & Central Taxes and Levies which will help boost exports and give the nation a competitive edge at a global level. Recently, the government even announced the omission of anti-dumping duties on Viscose. Apart from that, we also need to look at building a robust and disruptive textile infrastructure through dedicated textile parks, which could create an ecosystem for achieving the nation’s export targets.

RADIANZA™ AW22/23 COLLECTION BY FULL THAI KNITTING

ull Thai Knitting, an excellent reputation knitwear producer has launched AW22/23 flat knit collection with sustainability focus with Radianza™ fibre, an eco-friendly fibre from Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. Full Thai Knitting was founded in 1987, located in Nonthaburi, Thailand. They export annually more than 2 million garments with over400 styles to global retail brands. All styles are made by flat knit machines. Not only the design that they focus on, but also the good quality of the materials. “We have been receiving enquiries from customers about sustainable and eco-friendly materials for years, and the demand is continuously growing. Acrylic is one of

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years. This will help us increase revenue by 25%

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top choices in sweaters and winter wear, but it was challenging to find sustainable acrylic in the market. We then were introduced to Radianza™ - how much natural resources are saved with zero discharge as well as the initiatives and certification of it. We were very interested in developing a collection with it and this is also a good opportunity to use the characteristics of Radianza™ to promote the products. The feedback we have been giving after launching is very positive and we look forward to receiving many more positive feedback and the high demand on this collection in the upcoming season,” said WeeraCharoensintaweekoon, Managing Director, Full Thai Knitting.


INTERVIEW

SUSTAINABILITY AT THE FORE FRONT : ANJANI PRASAD In the past three years, Archroma introduced over 70 systems designed in line with the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”, says Anjani Prasad, MD of Archroma India. What was the impact of Covid-19 on the company’s working, particularly Archroma’s India unit? How did it manage the pandemic times? Safety comes first at Archroma and we have been working all along with safeguards aimed at protection our colleagues and partners, as well as business continuity. As a result, we have been able to operate, and serve customers and markets through the pandemic. We have regional teams near to our customers and supported by our distributor channels. Also, as Archroma has best-in-class IT cloud-based infrastructure and communication tools, Wwe were able to maintain our close interactions with our customers and partners through online regular webinars and meetings. We found that customers were very receptive to this new way of working. And in the end, passion of doing business and a motivated team is what has helped Archroma weather the pandemic so far.

Sustainability in textiles has been a major focus of Archroma. What are the solutions and systems for upholding these values? In the past three years, Archroma introduced over 70 systems designed in line with the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”, for paper, packaging, fashion, technical textile, and many other applications. We can all see the growing consumer demand for products that are safer for people and kinder to the environment. At Archroma, we believe that we can help transform fashion and textiles by providing solutions that bring value, including sustainable value, whilst optimizing costs and resource utilization in production.” We support this approach with a decisive focus on innovation. Archroma has launched several breakthroughs over the past few years, such as the aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo at the core of our PURE INDIGO FLOW system, or the plant-based

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EarthColors® colorants made from biomass waste, which is used in our LOVE NATURE X EARTHCOLORS system. We have also launched an online search tool called the SYSTEM SELECTOR to help textile brands and manufacturers find the various systems available to them across various segments: https://www. archroma.com/systems

What are the new products launched in the last one year? How are their characteristics important to the industry? We have launched the Appretan® NTR range of water-based polymeric binders based on renewable natural ingredients, used in two compostable binder systems especially designed for nonwoven cleaning rags and food filters, and named NATURE BOUND and RAG N’ ROLL. And just a few days ago we announced the new Siligen® EH1, a new vegan textile softener with one-third plant-based active content, used in our new EARTH SOFT system. These help us-and our partners in the textile, fashion, and paper market- to minimize our dependence on petroleum, fossil fuel products. Archroma launches EARTH SOFT system based on Siligen® EH1, a new vegan textile softener with one-third plant-based active content

Please give us an overall view of the R&D activities of Archroma India? Archroma has a global R&D network with dedicated expert Competence Centres located all over the world, and with local expert representatives in the main markets, including India. Archroma The company invests significant resources, people, and technology in these Competence Centres to Research and develop new state of the art technologies.

A new ‘Tech Hub’ has been opened at Basel in Switzerland by Archroma. What is its significance? Archroma moved to its headquarters to a new location in Pratteln, near Basel, Switzerland, in December 2021, after a decade of growth at our TechCenter site, located in a town also in the Basel area. The TechCenter evolved over the past 8 years from being a dedicated technical center to hosting a growing number of corporate services and teams.

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With the opening of the new headquarters, the TechCenter returns to its roots with focus on the global R&D and application development, supporting those of the Competence Centers (CC) based in Switzerland.

Give us a brief view of Archroma’s contribution to technical textiles. From fiber to finish, Archroma has a variety of specialty chemicals and systems catering to the technical textile markets for spinning, pre-treatment, dyeing, coating, and finishing. As mentioned we aim to push the agenda on sustainable transformation with innovations such as our Smartrepel® range for durable water repellency that is not based on fluorine, SAFE SEATS 2.0, a system with anti-microbial and flame protection for car seats fabrics, and TOUGH CAMO , a non-infrared reflective pigment printing system for military wear, with high durability and dramatically reduced water consumption. This is in addition to the standard range of finishing and functional effects such as coatings, flame retardants, antibacterial, UV and weather protection, soil and stain protection, etc. required in various growing areas of technical textile applications such as automotive, transportation, industry, exterior textiles, etc.

What does the future of Archroma India look like? What are the ambitious plans & programmes? Archroma’s future looks good with the textile industry expected CAGR annual growth rate at 4.4% with the growing sectors of home textile exports and technical textiles. The Indian textile industry is upbeat with the announcement of PLI schemes, and 7 mega textile parks. The recent Budget is also positive towards the industry and aimed for a holistic sustainable growth. Archroma India has ambitious plans to further grow and develop with our customers and drive the industry towards a more sustainable future. We help our customers and brands by offering them industry-leading and eco-advanced systems and solutions for better quality, value addition and differentiation to compete and win in their own local and global markets.


INTERVIEW

RECYCLING IS THE FUTURE : MR. CHHAGANBHAI SANGANI A recognised name in the textile industry, Alliance Fibres Limited was established in 2006 as India’s third PET Recycling Plant for manufacturing Polyester Staple Fibres (PSF) made out of post-consumer pet bottles. “We are the first company in INDIA to certify with OBP Certification for the ocean recycled polyester products. The OBP Certification Program is developed by the NGO Zero Plastic Oceans in collaboration with the certification group Control Union to protect oceans from the continuous leakage of Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) from land-based activities,” says Shri. Chhaganbhai Sangani, Chairman and Managing Director of Alliance Fibres Ltd. GREENFIL® is the official sustainable brand of Alliance Fibres Limited. It symbolises the product which is made by ethical recycling of post-consumer PET bottles which are damaging the nature and earth eco-system by polluting to the land, rivers and oceans. “We collect such bottles with the help of waste management supply chain partners and converting these waste into the wearable green textile products. The way of converting waste into the sustainable products defines as GREENFIL WAY,” says Mr.Kuldeep Sangani, Director (Sales – Domestic & Exports), who is the 2ndgeneration in the business. The GREENFIL® Products Range includes Recycled

PET Bottle Flakes, Recycled Polyester Staple fibres, Recycled Polyester Filament Yarns (POY / DTY / FDY), Recycled PET Ropes and Recycled Polyester Fabrics (Knitted / Woven). The company plans to launch projects ofRecycled PET Chips for Textile Grade & Food Grade. Mr. Kuldeep Sangani (Director-International sales) spoke to the Textile Value Chain, Excerpts: Please tell us about the beginning of this recycling business and also the developments? After visiting a booth in an exhibition held in Singapore in 2004, and seeing waste PET bottles along with PET Flakes and recycled PSF (Polyester Staple Fibres) lying side by side with each other, my father was excited to understand the process and wondered as to how this is possible. This excitement became a vision to jump into this industry in the Indian market after seeing running plants in China in the same year. Coming from textile background, he easily understood the product and its scope in the Indian market, talked with business friends about this project whether is it good idea to setup this industry in India or not as finance was the main constraint during that time. Though managed the finance from relatives and partners, decided to install India’s third plant of recycled PSF with a capacity of 20 MT/Day, Named Alliance Fibres Ltd in June 2006. His vision was converted from idea to

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execution just in 3 years. He started his career with technician for draw texturized machine with Himson group. Then he started one servicing company for the AMC of the DTY machines and acquired huge a long list of clienteles from the industry. In 1998, started own industry with one DTY machine and then installed Yarn dying unit at KIM (Surat) and then expanded business in Alliance Fibres Ltd.

China, rope plant is a combination of Chinese and Indian technologies. We have also installed many European-make auxiliaries technology for the better quality of finished product. We have in-house R&D &Maintenance teams for continuous improvements and better productivity in the process and products and machinery modifications. How did you manage your business in the pandemic – 2020? During the pandemic, we could well manage our staff and employees by providing them foods and safe stays. Our plant closed for only 10 days during lockdown. Just after that we got orders from various companies making fabrics for govt. medical supplies. Also, we got good orders for anti-microbial fibres and filaments during the COVID pandemic. What are the changes that you saw in the year 2021 after some relaxations from the pandemic?

In 2011, installed India’s first mechanical recycled filament yarn (POY/DTY) plant with 20 MT/Day capacity. Parallelly, we expanded capacity of the PSF unit to 50 MT/day. We have introduced world’s first Recycled PET Ropes in 2015 with 2MT/day capacity. In 2019 again POY plant capacity was expanded to 30 MT/day. Currently we are coming up with the latesttechnology in Recycled filament for better evenness and barre free properties for dyeing guaranteed recycled yarn. Our total PET bottle recycling capacity will become 150 MT/day by April, 2022. Currently we are recycling about 200 MT of PET waste to make recycled PSF, POY/DTY/FDY& Ropes. We are having following certificates:Oeko-Tex,GRS (Global Recycled Standard), Guinness world record -- for participating in making world’s largest T-shirt from recycled yarns, ISO 9001:2015, BIS - 11066: 2014, and OBP (Ocean Bound Plastic) Certificate – The. World’s first certificate for recycled PSF, Yarns, Ropes& Fabrics. What are the machines you use for producing polyester staple fibres, filament yarns, and ropes by sustainable way for making our earth alive? And from where do you source that machinery? Our PSF plant and POY plant technologies are from

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ThePandemictaught us so many lessons. There is a huge difference between pre-Covid and post-Covid lifestyles. Businesses revived with increased demand in textiles. Lots of expansion has been announced in the industry. During the pandemic, we have also modified our machineries for better quality and higher productivity. Just after thepandemic, we got good market demands due to improvement in quality of product than other players in the market. Please brief us about the efforts of the Research and Development Department? We have a dedicated R&D division with the vision of developing new conceptual yarns, fibres, ropes & fabric. Though our products are very basic, we are focusing on the technical parameters of the recycled fibres/yarns/fabrics by maintaining high quality raw material inputs (PET Flakes), and so the melt characteristics. As we are working with many brands like IKEA, Inditex, H&M, C&A, Decathlon, Wallmart, Home Depot, etc., directly or indirectly, we are getting challenging developments from them and our R&D team working hard to achieve the desiredproducts. We have our dedicated director team - Mr. V.B. Shah, Mr. Jignesh Patel, Mr. Ashwin Patel, , Mr. Bharat Koradiya, Mr. Satish Koradiya, Mr. Ronak Kachhadiya, , Mr. Prakash Patel, Mr. ChandreshVasani and Mr. Piyush Patel, are well managing and heading all different company operations


for continuous development in the products and processes to achieve success in PET recycling Industry. We are expecting 250+ crores of Sales Turnover during current financial year 2021-22. We have vision to achieve 500+ crores of sales turnover by 2025 by enhancing capacities and value addition in the existing product ranges. How do you see the future of your Industry, in 2022 & beyond? Recycling is the future whether it is of plastics or of any other products. Without recycling, mother earth will not last for a long. Sustainability has become the buzzword in the world now-a-days. Many things are yet to achieve in the recycled PET Industry. New

technologies are coming up every day to get virgin like look, feel, lustre, workability and efficiency. Textile field will always remain “baby” in a sense of industrial lifecycle. Everyday new concepts are coming up in the industry. Before a decade or two, textile meant for only clothes, and now textile has many strong branches such as Home-Textiles, Technical-Textiles, Geo-Textiles, Automotive-Textiles, Nano-Textiles, Medical-Textiles, Aero-Textiles, etc. There are no doubts that many more branches of textiles are yet to born especially considering sustainability. What is your message for the startups in this industry? Textile is a big industry and being in the industry, make a vision to be the best in the quality supply and customer service. Do innovations through continuous improvements. Be passionate and committed to achieve your dream vision. Invest more and more in R&D and people for the best outcome for the industry and for yourself as well. Recycling textiles has many more doorsteps to achieve, grab it otherwise someone else will grab. Please contact us at info@alliancefibres.com or visit our website www. alliancefibres.com for any inquiries related to PET recycled products.

PET Bottle Waste coming in Baled Form from all over india

Washing-Line : Segregation of PET Waste before crushing

Arial View Alliance Fibres Limited

PSF Line

Regenerated Polyester Staple Fibres from PET Waste

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Product Profile About Us We are manufacturer of 100% combed compact yarn with Suessen , the company has been incorporated on 17 th July 2015. We are having capacity of 27360 spindles at our Sky Spintex Pvt. Ltd. In forward integration to our spinning we have now installed ultra modern fabric manufacturing, Dyeing & Processing unit with soft flow and continuous dyeing with 20tons/day capacity with Rotary Printing unit also we have ultra modern sewing machines for our Garment factory with 25000 pcs/day capacity at lathidad, Botad.

Yarn Products

Printed Knitted Fabrics Pigment Prints Discharge Prints Reactive Prints Polyester disperse Prints Burnout Prints

Counts: 16s to 40s Ne Carded / Combed / Compact

Garments Products

Knitted Fabrics Single Jersey Single Jersey with Spandex Terry Fleece ( 2thread & 3 thread – with Sueding option ) with and without plaiting Pique ( With collars and cuffsstandard as well as jacquard) Waffle Mini Waffle Rib & Interlock Fabrics

Polo T-shirt Crew Neck Tracks Panties Boxers

Survey No. 34/1 P1, Botad-Bhavnagar Road, At. Lathidad, Ta-Dist. Botad, Pin-364710 (Guj.) INDIA. info@skytextiles.in

www.skytextiles.in

+91 9898056823

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

PROCESSING OF AUTOMOTIVE FABRICS

DR.N.N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes) Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.

T

he automobile industry in India has been expanding in a big way. Along with this automotive fabrics’ market share is also rising. Polyester has now become a leading fibre for car manufacture as well. Polyester in various forms like filament, spun and air texturised are commonly used. Automotive yarn is the yarn used in automobile upholstery. Yarn is 100 % polyester. Yarns should have better pilling, better abrasion and better light fastness. Types of automotive yarns There are basically 5 types of yarn: 1. Texturised yarn (155/34, 80/34,225/72) 2. Air-Texturised yarn (840 dtex, 790 dtex, 650 dtex, 630 dtex, 600 dtex) 3. Roto filament yarn (450, 600) 4. Spun 100% polyester yarn (2/24) 5. Flock yarn. Texturised yarn is supplied by Reliance Industries Ltd. The denier is 155 and the number of filaments is 34. They are manufactured in normal draw texturising machines. Air-Texturised yarn is obtained from air texturising machines using the following polyester manufac-

tured by Indorama – Butiburi, Nagpur, and Reliance Industries Ltd. 1.235den and 48 No of filaments 2. 235 den and 68 No of filaments 3. 235 den and 34 No of filament Roto-filament yarn is also manufactured by Reliance Industries Ltd. Spun 100% polyester yarn is manufactured by RSWM –Lodha, Banswara (Rajasthan), Indorama – Indore (MP) Flock yarn is a three-component yarn consisting of the carrier thread (technical viscose filament yarn), the acrylate bonding agent and the flock material (Nylon 6.6). It is the latest technology. Flock yarn is not manufactured in India. It is imported from Italy. All the above yarns are used because they give the fabrics less abrasion, pilling etc. which are required for automotive fabrics used by Maruti, Tata, Honda, General Motors, Toyota and other such car manufacturers

Processing of automotive yarns includes the following steps: 1. Fabrics made of dyed yarn (knitted or woven) 2. Grey fabrics are piece dyed (knitted or woven). Fabrics may be warp knitted using Karl-Mayer

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knitting machines from Germany or woven on a Dornier loom from Germany attached with Staubli Jacquard from Switzerland 3. Texturised yarn is used for warp knitting, spun and air-texturised yarn used for woven fabrics. Only a few units in India are making these automotive fabrics namely: 1. Bhilware Melba Dewitte Ltd, Mordi, Banswara (Rajasthan) 2. Arvind Advanced Materials Limited, Santej, Kalol (Gujarat) joint venture with Adient, the global leader in automotive fabrics. 3. Reliance Industries Ltd , Ahmedabad. 4. Faze Three Auto Fab Ltd, Vapi. (tie-up with Aundee (Germany) 5. Raymond Ltd. (tie-up with Trevas (France) & Kawashima (Japan) 6. Banswara Syntex Ltd, Banswara (Rajasthan) After the fabric is made, it goes for lamination using polyurethane foam on a laminating machine made in Germany.

Process flow for Knitted Fabric Dyed texturised yarn /grey texturised yarn -> Warping on Benniger (Germany) Warp knitting machine  Knitted fabric (if grey) will go for dyeing in softflow jet dyeing machines. Dyed Knitted fabric  Shearing machine (Vollenweider, Switzerland) The pile will be cut by blade cutters in the shearing machine  Then it will go for scouring in Jigger/Jet dyeing machine. Upholstery piece dyeing is divided into 2 types wherein the headlining is dyed in beam dyeing and upholstery is dyed in jet dyeing using high light fastness dyes and U.V absorber and then finished on a stenter. Due to the inherent property of shrinkage of automotive fabrics, there should be attachment of a weft straightener in the stenter. Lastly, it will go for lamination. The lamination machine is made in Germany where the reverse side of the fabric is pasted with polyurethane foam with the help of a flame. Nylon screen is also used to cover it from the reverse side. In some places they also do acrylic back coating. This foam /acrylic is fire–retardant. The checking and packing into rolls is then done.

Process flow for Woven fabric

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Warping -> Warp beam prepared using air texturised / spun polyester yarn. -> Dornier looms -> Woven fabric -> Scouring -> Drying on Stener -> Checking -> Lamination -> Checking and Packing in rolls. Owing to the high fastness requirements, only selected disperse dyes can be used for this application. Most of the dyes have to be imported and UV absorbers have to be added in the dyebath to further improve the Light fastness.

Dyeing of automotive yarn is critical. Dye selection: Normal disperse dyes cannot be used in dyeing of automotive yarns because of lower light fastness. Light fastness in automotive fabrics is very crucial because the car upholstery is often subjected to sunlight during long periods of parking. The fabric should withstand sunlight. Different car standards.

manufacturers

require

different

Light-fastness tests Method SAE J 1885 (to be tested in Xenon Weatherometer) model Atlas Ci 35 A at 225.6 k-joule (rating should be 4-5) and at 488.8k joule (rating should be 2-3). Maruti follows Japanese standards and Tata follows European standards. Dyes used The following are the Disperse dyes to be used in dyeing of automotive yarn: 1.

CI No – Yellow 42

2.

CI No – Blue 60

3.

CI No – Red 91

4.

CI No – Blue 77

5.

CI No – Blue 56

6.

CI No – Orange 30

7.

CI No – Red 167

Huntsman is having special high light fastness dyes known as Teratop dyes. Similarly, Clariant is also supplying Foron AS dyes, and DyStar has come out with Dianix AM dyes. Dohmen, Germany has also full range of Automotive dyes known as Dorosperse K. You can get a light fastness rating of 6-7 using the above dyes for fabric and yarn dyeing of automotive fabrics.


The following are the salient points for automotive yarn dyeing Soft winding – for draw texturing yarn, the soft package is directly made on axially compressible perforated polypropylene tube (Sonoco, Germany or Mariplast, Italy) in the draw texturising machine itself supplied by Reliance industries Ltd. The package weight is between 1.5 kg to 2.0 kg. The tube length is 225 mm, inner diameter is 60 mm and the outer diameter is 65 mm. An alternative is for the soft package to be made on a precision soft winding machine with an overfeed attachment with slow speed, using the above dimensions, and made of stainless steel (Dyespring from Madura Coats, Bangalore). For air texturing yarn, the soft package is made on polypropylene tubes in the air texturising machine itself (Stahle, Germany and Harish, Mumbai), the package weight is 1.5 kg to 2 kg with the above tube dimensions.

Yarn dyeing machines Normal HTHP dyeing machines are preferred. For the dyeing of such sophisticated yarn, preference should be given to dyeing machines like Thies, Then, Fongs, Lorris Bellini etc that are fully automatic. For the dyeing of automatic yarns selection of chemicals are critical. The following chemicals are used in dyeing: 1. Acetic acids (98%) – to maintain a pH of 4.5 to 5 2. Soduim Acetate – Buffer 3. Non – silicon based De-aerating agent.

absorbers are Cibatex APS (CIBA), Fadex F (Clariant) and Dorafast TR liq ( Dohmen). By adding UV absorber, the light fastness improvement is about 1 to 2 rating points more. One has to bear in mind that the fastness levels vary from country to country and car maker to car maker. The role of UV absorber is very crucial. It will increase the light fastness of automotive yarn and fabric by 1 point more on the grading scale. It is normally tested in a Xenon Arc Weatherometer. An alternative U.V absorber used is Fadex F from Clariant. Or Dorafast TR liquid from Dohmen. The dyeing temperature is 130 degrees Celsius. After dyeing the reduction cleaning has to be done using caustic soda flakes & Hydro -2 gpl at 80 degrees Celsius for 30 mins for dark and heavy dark shades. Then soaping has to be done using non – ionic detergent (1 gpl). Acid wash must then be done. At the end softening treatment using wax emulsion type softener must be done e.g. – Lustraffin BA (CHT)- 2% owg. After the process is complete it goes to the hydro-extractor and then dried in a chamber dryer. Shade passing in automotive dyed fabrics is very critical. Car manufacturers are very particular about this. Thus, the dyer and matcher have to take utmost care. There should not be any difference in the shade from approved shade to bulk shade. For Foreign markets the computer report delta Evalue is 0.5 for passing and for Domestic the delta E value is 1.5 for passing. The same criteria are for batch-tobatch shade difference.

4. Dispersing agent.

The following are the quality test conducted for automotive fabrics:

5. Levelling cum penetrating agent.

1.

Pilling test

2.

Rubbing test

3.

Abrasion test

4.

Heat ageing test.

5.

Tensile test

6.

Stretch and set test

7.

Flammability test

8.

Bow and skew test.

6. UV absorber. 7. Wax based softener. Nobody in India manufactures this UV absorbers. They have to be imported. Basically, a UV absorber is a Benzotriazol derivative liquid and is anionic in nature. The UV absorber is added in percentage proportionate to the weight of the goods. Accordingly, other levelling and dispersing agents have to be selected, which are compatible with the UV absorbers. The light fastness has also a link with the substrate. Finer the dyed yarn, lesser will be the light fastness. Therefore, the percentage of absorber has to be increased accordingly. Commonly used UV

Every car manufacturing company uses its own hot light exposure method for testing dyed fabrics. Some of the companies are trying to bring about a

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unification of the test standards.

7 Evaluation – according to grey Scale.

The following are the properties of these light fastness test conditions:

8 Substrate is 10 mm polyurethane foam. Ford (UK) specifies this test.

1 .Type of illumination ( daylight, xenon lamp and carbon arc lamp ).

SAE J 1885: (Atlas Weatherometer Ci 35 Xenon lamp).

2 Degree of exposure ( intensity of illumination and exposure time).

This is normally adopted in USA. This test method is designed to simulate extreme environmental conditions encountered inside a vehicle due to sunlight, heat and humidity for purpose of predicting the performance of automotive interior trim materials.

3 Test temperature. 4 Humidity 5 Foam substrate. Based on the above criteria, the following Light fastness test methods are being adopted at various levels:

The following are the parameters of the above test 1.Source – Water-cooled Xenon arc lamp.

Fakra test : (DIN – 75202 ) ( DIN –Deutsche Industries Normen)

2 Inner filter – quartz glass.

This test is very common in Germany. There are two types:

4 Humidity – 50%

1.Xenon 450 2 Xenon 1200.

3 Outer filter -borosilicate glass. 5 Test chamber temperature – 62o C. 6 Black panel temperature – 89oC 7 Exposure time – 300 hrs (without reversal) 8 Evaluation – According to Grey Scale.

The following are the parameters for Xenon Test 450:

9 Requirement – 225.6 kJ/m2 – minimum Grey Scale 4 and 448.8kJ/m2 –minimum Grey scale 3.

1.IR filters = 4

10 Distilled or deionized water should be circulated just ahead of the lamp.

2.Windows Glass filters = 3 Nos. 3 Humidity = 20% 4 Test Chamber temperature = 45o C. 5 Black panel temperature = 83o C. 6 Evaluation according to Blue scale

11 The samples are fitted on a specimen rack which rotates at 1rpm. 12 Samples are mounted over the 4.8 mm foam.

7 Standard exposure time is 80 hrs to 96 hrs (without reversal).

Ford in USA and Europe and GM (USA) specifies this test.

8 Requirement: Blue Scale rating 6-7

Jaso test – (Fade – Ometer Carbon Arc. Lamp)

Gray Scale rating 3-4

This test is normally followed in Japan.

9 Substrate is 10 mm polyurethane foam. In Europe, the company (OPEL) follows this test. Similarly, the parameters for Xeno test 1200 are as follows:

The following are the parameters of the above test: 1.Souce is Fade-Ometer 18 FR.

1.Selective reflecting mirror (for UV light)

2.Filter System -Pyrex glass.

2.Translucent absorber (for infrared).

3.Humidity – 40%

3.Quartz glass inner and outer cylinder.

4.Test chamber temperature = 50oC

2 Distilled water jacket (to absorb long wave infrared radiation).

5.Black panel temperature = 85oC

3 Humidity = 80%

6.Exposure time is 300 hrs

4 Test chamber temperature = 50oC

7.Evaluation – according to Grey Scale.

5 Black panel temperature = 75oC 6 Exposure time is 48 hrs (without reversal)

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8.Requirement – For change of shade, at least rating 3must be attained.


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9.Substrate is 10mm PUE foam.

9 Evaluation – According to Grey Scale (Peugeot).

Renualt/Peugeot D47 1421 test: This test method is followed by the French car manufacturing industry.

According to Blue Scale (Renault).

The following are the parameters of the above test:

11

1.Source is Xenon lamp (Xeno test 150 or 150 S)

Conclusion

2.Inner cylinder is quarts glass. 3.Outer cylinder is special UV glass. 4.There are 3-4 IR and 4-3 window glass filters. 5.Humidity – 65% 6 Test chamber temperature = 45oC

10Requirement – At least rating 4. Substrate is 5 mm PUE foam.

Car makers update their test specifications from time to time. The requirements normally vary according to where a textile is to be used in a car (seat upholstery, interior trim, head lining, etc). This point has to be made clear to the customer.

7 Black panel tempretature = 90oC 8 Exposure time is 300 hrs

INDUSTRY FOCUS

INDUSTRIES PROGRESSING WITH SCOPES, POST COVID-19

B.BASU, BTRA Ex-Scientist , Textile Consultant

Reliance Ind. retired G.M. Abstract

I

n India, all the industries including that of textiles suffered a lot w.e.f. March`19 since the starting of the pandemic. The worst sufferers were the unorganised sectors which account for about90% (depending upon the nature of the business) of the industries and almost came to the stage of loss making/closure. Their main reasons were the

shortage of workforce and stockpile up.Now at the stage of the ending the Covid -19, the garment sectors have started doing well, and most of them have reached at 100% working level especially the PPE manufacturers. The organised sectors and the big houses are doing a good business in local and export market. A greater future is ahead of them. Those who could make proper planning and business strategy and manufacturing value added

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products are the best game players in the market today. The GDP of India was 1.6% (Q4, 20-21) and that of 20.1% in Q1(21-22) despite so many other constraints. It is expected to rise gradually as per the IMF. Although textile and garment sectors have reached a certain level, the core industries like coal, natural gas, refineries, steel, fertilisers, cement, electricity etc have shown a growth of 8.9% YoY June 20- 21. The textile sectors, both cotton, polyester sectors’ machinery manufacturers are recovering from the shock but in comparison to 2019, it is still lagging in certain areas.

There was a high impact on unemployment and uncertainty among the workforce in private sectors where some were not able to pay the salaries, some paid partially, but now in almost all cases, it is arriving at Normal Stage. The education sectors are till now at high dissatisfaction stage and no prediction can be made right now (this is as per Dec`21 scenario). This article discusses all about the profitability,and management`s strategy to lead the industries to a high level of satisfaction after Covid -19.

[2]The Impact of the Industries during Covid -19 Everyone is aware that in India and globally, the pandemic coronavirus created an economic slowdown along with immense human grief. The global outbreak has affected many businesses and created havoc in the textile, garment, and other industries as well. The spread of the virus had the serious implications and the companies started feeling the impact with store closures and uncertainty in orders with stockpile up. It has got the setback

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in the employment but with the Government initiatives and that of the proper planning of the organised sectors it was almost covered up. Due to the closure of the retailers for the months together it highly affected the production sectors and hence the retrenchment of the workmen started. All the fashion events were cancelled. With the steep reduction in demand due to sudden halt of global trade and domestic sales due to the closure of retail stores, the industries faced unprecedented and severe losses. During the lockdown period, there had been a migration of migrant workers going back to their respective places. Today almost 90% of them are back but and about 60% of the looms are working in Bhiwandi Powerloom Sector, and almost 90-95% looms are performing in Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Solapur, Tirupur (1). (Almost no issue, as per the market survey done in 4th Week of Nov`21) The organised sectors producing daily use like towels, bed Sheets and PPE, home décor etc were not much affected and now back to the near normalcy (as on 4th week of Nov`21). There is always a good market for the medical textile globally. The polyester sector and textile machinery manufacturing areas were affected, though not closed completely, but now they are at profit making stage (Q3 21-22).

[3] Indian Economy Growth Rate As per the RBI’s revised estimates of July 2021, (Q1) the real GDP growth of the country is estimated at 20.1% for the first quarter of FY22. The increase in the tax collection, along with government’s budget support to States strengthened the overall growth of the Indian economy. India is focusing on renewable sources to generate energy. It is planning to achieve 40% of its energy from non-fossil sources by 2030, which is currently 30% and have plans to increase its renewable energy capacity from to 175 gigawatts (GW) by 2022. In line with this, in May 2021, India, along with the UK, jointly launched a ‘Roadmap 2030’ to collaborate and combat climate change by 2030. India is expected to be the third largest consumer economy as its consumption may triple to US$4


trillion by 2025, owing to shift in consumer behaviour and expenditure pattern, according to a (2) Boston Consulting Group (BCG) report. It is estimated to surpass the USA to become the second largest economy in terms of purchasing power parity (PPP) by 2040 as per a report by PricewaterhouseCoopers. (IBEF) India’s GDP grew 8.4% in Q2 FY22 as per TOI latest updates on global markets. [4] GDP:India’s economy expanded by 8.4 percent year-on-year in July-September 2021, following a record 20.1 percent growth in the previous three-month period and matching market expectations. The reading marked a fourth straight quarter of expansion, as Coronavirus-related disruptions continued to ease and as the economic activity rebounded helped by a faster pace of vaccinations and a drop in cases. By sectors, service activity growth was supported by increases in trade, hotels, transport & communication (8.2% vs 34.3%), financial, real estate & professional services (7.8% vs 3.7%), and public administration, defence& other services (17.4% vs 5.8%). In addition, output rose for manufacturing (5.5% vs 49.6%), mining & quarrying (15.4% vs 18.6%), utilities (8.9% vs 14.3%), construction (7.5% vs 68.3%), and agriculture (4.5%, the same as in July-September). The Reserve Bank of India has forecast an annual growth of 9.5 percent in the current fiscal year. source: (3) Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation (MOSPI). Please see the Chart below. [4.1] Figure 1. On the domestic front, data released by the National Statistical Office (NSO) on November 30, 2021, showed that real gross domestic product (GDP) expanded by 8.4 per cent year-on-year (y-o-y) in Q2:2021-22, following a growth of 20.1 per cent during Q1:2021-22. With the recovery gaining momentum, all constituents of aggregate demand entered the expansion zone, with exports and imports markedly exceeding their pre-COVID-19 levels. On the supply side, real gross value added (GVA) increased by 8.5 per cent y-o-y during Q2:202122. [4.2] Available data for Q3:2021-22 indicate that the momentum of economic activity is gaining further traction, aided by expanding vaccination coverage, the rapid subsiding of new infections and release

of pent-up demand. Rural demand exhibited resilience – tractor sales improved in October over the same month of 2019 (pre-pandemic level), while motorcycle sales are slowly inching towards their pre-pandemic levels. Continued direct transfers under PM Kisan Scheme are supporting rural demand. The demand for work under the Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA) moderated in November from a year ago, suggesting a pickup in farm labour demand. Supported by favourable soil moisture content and good reservoir storage levels, rabi sowing was 6.1 per cent higher than a year ago as on December 3, 2021.(4)

[5] The Future of Work After COVID-19: According to Gartner (By Modern Recruiters TeamNovember 16, 2021) With the COVID-19 pandemic now in a manageable state, the United States has been able to re-establish a post-pandemic mindset towards life. Recruiters are now noticing good indications of recruitment; unemployment rates are decreasing, and the country is starting to hire again. Recruitment forecasts are expected to rise in 2022 but will continue to fluctuate along with the economy in some countries. Now let us find the future trends of the working procedures: 1 Remote Working Will Stay According to a recent Gartner poll, 48% of employees will likely work remotely at least part of the time after COVID-19, up from 30% previously. As organisations move to more distributed work arrangements, assess the crucial skills needed for digitally collaborative working and be prepared to alter employee experience methods. 2 Contingent Worker Expansion Gartner predicts that organisations will keep utilising contingent employees to increase operational flexibility after COVID-19, and they’ll look at using other job models they’ve seen during the pandemic, such as talent sharing and pay for 80% effort. 3 Separation of Critical Skills and Roles To build a workforce that can survive after the pandemic and emphasise more on skills needed

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to generate the company’s competitive advantage and workflows that fuel it. Encourage employees to improve important talents instead of focusing on a particular future position. Employees in critical roles who lack essential abilities should get more assistance in their career advancement. 4 Transparency from Executives CEOs and executive leaders are adviced on compensation cuts and make certain the financial costs are dispersed throughout the company rather than employees. More competent executives are required 5 Operational Resilience In the future, it will be critical to consider how you’re recruiting and retaining people today because that could influence business outcomes tomorrow. Recruiting practices should evolve with changing times, but also stay true to your company culture so that you can create a workforce that is aligned with your organisational values. [6] Unorganised sector during India Lockdown: Most affected is unorganised sector; it is 93% of the total workforce, 41 crore people lack economic security. (6) y According to the report of Economic Survey released in 2019, the unorganised sector accounts for 93% of the total workforce of the country. This unorganised sector has a big hand in running the country’s economy, yet there is no concrete provision to protect it. There are 14 million people who go to other States only for wages or for works like construction. y According to the report released by CII in the year 2011-12, about 16.35 crore people are employed in the unorganised sector in 7 major sectors of the non-agricultural sector of the country. Among these, the manufacturing sector in the first place and trade, hotel, and restaurant industry in the second place and construction sector in the third place. After Covid–19 the construction sector, which witnessed suffered last year, has shown a significant increase in the gross value added in the last quarter when compared to the similar quarter of last financial year. The increase is almost twice the last year number, which is a good sign for the

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country. (By Simerleen Kaur- 20 July, 21, inventiva. co.in/stories/economy-workers) [6.1] To sum up the evaluation of the eight principal sectors of the economy: • Agriculture, forestry, and fishing are the only sectors with steady and growth. This is a good development for the economy, but revival cannot be agriculture-based under current circumstances. Manufacturing must come out of its slowdown. • Financial, real estate and professional services are relatively less badly affected and should recover in reasonable time. But the recovery will be dependent on industrial and consumer demand recovery. • The same is true for construction and internal trade, tourism, transport, communication sectors. Though construction shows signs of rebound, tourism is likely to suffer the most which is yet to back to normalcy. That may eclipse some possible gains in communication during the pandemic. However, till the detailed sectoral data are available, overall revival of this bouquet of some important large sectors of the economy will be dependent on real sector activities and how these sectors cope up with periodic disruptions due to the pandemic. • Electricity, gas, water and public utility services and public administration, defence and other services are likely to get back to normalcy sooner than other sectors. But these cannot propel economy into the desired growth path alone, and once again long-term stability in these sectors will depend upon overall revival. (Post-Pandemic Economic Recovery: Seven Priorities for India, Abhijit Mukhopadhyay Observer Research Foundation.) 7 [7] Migrant Workers: There are an estimated 139 million migrants in the country, according to the World Economic Forum.Indian migrant workers during the COVID-19 pandemic have faced multiple hardships. With factories and workplaces shut down due to the lockdown imposed in the country, millions of migrant workers had to deal with the loss of income, food shortages and uncertainty about their future. Most migrants in the country originate from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, followed by Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh. The cities of Mumbai and Delhi attract the highest number of migrants. As new Covid-19 infections in the country decline,


migrant workers have started returning in droves to the textile exporting hubs in Tamil Nadu and Uttar Pradesh, bringing cheer to the industry which is seeing a 25-30% increase in export orders from the previous year. (July 21). So many companies offered free travel tickets,housing, and food to run the organisations. Apparel exporters said they expect the order position to reach the pre-pandemic level by the third quarter of FY22.(ET: Jul 21, 2021)8. The Survey done by the TOI that 9(1) those employees working remotely in hometown would need times to return to big cities as they must rent a house again (2) 70% of the lower paid (daily wage earners) have returned as to GIEL HR services. (3) Adecco India says that up to 15% of those who migrated to hometown may look at staying back permanently. (4) Over 60% describe that their hometown stays as temporary. (5) Overall, 70% of the migrant workforce is in junior to middle management level whereas 10-15% are in senior management. (6) In bigger cities, HR Firm Quess Corporation has recorded a rising hiring trends especially in Technical Sector (7) Hence fresh recruitments have started with skill labour force and if not, their skills are developing by imparting training as per the required level. As on today (30th December`21) almost all the organised and decentralised sectors are working at full capacity except that of entertainment and travel industries. 10(Market research2) In so many organisations, the white-collar jobs are still being performed “Work from Home”.Till the fear is persisting among the blue-collared people the 3rd wave of Pandemic.11(ET-09 Dec 2021)

ly affected the health and economy of various countries from all over the world. Nevertheless, the government and various other leaders are also leaving no stone unturned to lessen the economic recession. 1.Health Care Profession We all are hopeful that this critical situation shall end soon, but who knows what happens next. That is why it is always better to prepare one for the known unknowns. The selection of the healthcare profession would be the ultimate career of any one and will be equally beneficial after this outbreak ends. 2. Social Worker After health care, the contribution of social workers also holds enormous credence. So, if anyone has decided to spend your life like a true warrior and if anyone is enthusiastic about helping people out, he/she can opt for an MSW online (Master of Social Work) degree program. It’s better to choose your career as a professional social worker because the community will need lots of rehabilitation work for the betterment of affected people after the ending of the critical situations. 3. Tech and IT Jobs The Information Technologies Department is always working hard to maintain the business activities by providing every single event to reduce the margin of error. Hence for any unfavourable happening in future these Information Technologies will be at top of the situation. 4. Supply Chain Manager

Diamond exporters were expecting them to return after the kharif sowing was over. Before Covid broke out, there were 600,000 workers in Surat’s diamond trade. The number has fallen to around 475,000.

They are at the service to provide food and the necessary items at doorstep and will remain in practice for ever. Hence a profession degree in Supply Chain Management enables any one to have a right professional choice.

12(ET-14 Sep 2021),

5. Artificial Intelligence Officer

[8] The Employment Opportunities after Covid – 19 13

As per the latest research study by The World Economic Forum, the ongoing terrifying situation has increased the demand for an artificial intelligence officer. Therefore, there will be more emerging jobs for them in the upcoming days as well. The selection of artificial

The Following careers will be in high demand after Covid – 19 pandemics. Undoubtedly, COVID-19 pandemic has adverse-

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intelligence jobs as one`s dream career requires exceptional skill set and efficiency levels to work incredibly.

Statistical Profiles - Unemployment in India [8.2] India Unemployment Rate - Historical Data Year

Unemployment Rate (%)

In the world of technology and with a strong technical background one can be a very successful professional in this field.

2020

7.11%

1.84%

2019

5.27%

-0.06%

2018

5.33%

-0.08%

2017

5.41%

-0.10%

6. Digital/Social Media Marketing Manager

2016

5.51%

-0.05%

2015

5.56%

-0.04%

2014

5.60%

-0.07%

2013

5.67%

0.01%

2012

5.66%

0.01%

2011

5.65%

0.00%

2010

5.65%

0.04%

2009

5.61%

0.25%

2008

5.36%

-0.05%

2007

5.41%

-0.11%

2006

5.52%

-0.13%

2005

5.65%

-0.07%

2004

5.72%

-0.05%

Currently, it is an era of digital transformation, creative content creation, and digital marketing. People find it more convenient to find-out everything online; that is why there is a consistent demand for social media marketers across the globe. Even in a country like India, now one can sharpen up your digital marketing skills by getting a professional degree from any digital marketing institute . One of the most significant perks of choosing this career is that it has made remote-working easy, which is a desirable scenario in a lockdown situation. So, while being at home, one can still manage social media activities without any hurdles [8.1]14 Unemployment Rate 29 Dec 2021*

Annual Change

2003

5.77%

0.00%

2002

5.77%

0.04%

2001

5.73%

-0.02%

2000

5.75%

-0.03%

1999

5.78%

0.04%

1998

5.74%

0.00%

1997

5.74%

-0.01%

1996

5.75%

0.00%

1995

5.75%

0.00%

1994

5.75%

0.03%

India

7.7%

Urban

9.2%

1993

5.72%

0.11%

Rural

7.1%

1992

5.61%

0.06%

1991

5.55%

0.06%

Month

Unemployment Rate (%) India

Nov 2021 Oct 2021 Sep 2021 Aug 2021 Jul 2021 Jun 2021 May 2021 Apr 2021 Mar 2021 Feb 2021 Jan 2021 Dec 2020

Urban 7.00 7.75 6.86 8.32 6.96 9.17 11.84 7.97 6.50 6.89 6.52 9.06

Rural 8.21 7.38 8.62 9.78 8.32 10.08 14.72 9.78 7.27 6.99 8.09 8.84

6.44 7.91 6.06 7.64 6.34 8.75 10.55 7.13 6.15 6.85 5.81 9.15

Statistical Profiles - Unemployment in India

In comparison, the world`s unemployment rate is 6.47% in the year 2020, that of 5.37% in 2019, 5.37% in 2018, 5.55% in 2017 which is not much different that of India. In India, the unemployment rate is 7.7% as 29th December 21(Net search) which has increased after Covid -19. Now after running the industries at full efficacy, it is expected to go down gradually. McKinsey Global Institute says15“the pandemic accelerated existing trends in remote works, e –

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commerce, and automation, with up to 25% more workers than previously estimated potentially need to switch occupancy” [8.3]The Industries are growing in the financial year 2021-22. Over 17,200 new companies set up in India during April-June 202116(Press Trust of India | New Delhi Last Updated at July 19,21) More than 17,200 new companies were set up in the country during April to June this year while a total of 13.7 lakh companies were active at the end of June, according to official data. Minister of State for Corporate Affairs Rao Inderjit Singh told the Lok Sabha that incorporation of new companies and closure thereof is a routine affair depending upon the objectives of incorporating the


company on a case-to-case basis. “The number of new companies incorporated in the country under the provisions of the Companies Act, 2013 from April 2021 to June 2021 is 36,191 as compared to 18,968 number of new companies in the corresponding period of last year,” Singh, who took charge as the MoS at the ministry earlier this month, said in a written reply. There was an increase of 17,223 new companies compared to the year-ago period. As per data with the ministry, there were a total of 21,87,026 registered companies till June 30 this year. In 2020-21, as many as 14,674 companies were closed, while the number stood at 70,972 in 2019-20. A total of 1,43,223 companies were shuttered in 2018-19. “There is no verifiable information which says that the closure of company is due to lack of business acumen,” the minister said in another written reply. He was responding to a question about the measures likely to be taken by the government to address the apprehension in some quarters of corporate world that this arrangement would weaken the position of promoters. 17.NIIT Limited announces Q1 (April - June 2021) NIIT Limited Consolidated Financials for Quarter ended June 30, 2021 (in Rs. Crore)

Quarter Quarter YoY ended ended change June30, 2021 June30, 2020

Net Revenue

301

201.8

49%

EBITDA

72.1

24.3

196%

EBITDA %

24%

12%

1188 bps

Profit After Tax

51.4

29.0

78%

Consolidated Results

help in generating 7.5 million to 10 million direct new jobs in Textile. [8.4.1] Fabrics: Target of $4 Billion Jump by positioning India as a Regional Fabhub. [8.4.2] Home Textiles: target of $4 billion increase by building an existing advantage to expand the Global Customer base. [8.4.3] Tech. Textiles: Target a $ 1 billion jump building capacities in select key Sub segments on the back of potential Domestic Demand Growth. As per the report of Wazir Advisors, the Indian Textile Industries worth US$140 billion is expected to grow at 11% CAGR to reach size of US$225 Billion by the year 2026. This growth is likely to come mainly from increased Exports. [8.5] India’s core sector growth up 8.9% YoY in June 18(Business India today-10th August 21) Production of coal, natural gas, refinery products, fertilisers, and steel, cement and electricity industries increased in June 2021 over corresponding period last year. The growth rate of index of eight core industries during the April-June 2021-22 period stood at 25.3 per cent as compared to the corresponding period of last FY. Among the core industries, coal production increased 7.4 per cent YoY in June, while crude oil production saw 1.8 per cent per decline. Natural gas and petroleum refinery production increased 20.6 per cent and 2.4 per cent, respectively. Fertiliser’s production in June increased 2 per cent, while steel production increased significantly by 25 per cent YoY. Cement and electricity production increased 4.3 per cent and 7.2 per cent YoY, respectively, in June.

EBITDA means earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation (used as an indicator of the overall profitability of a business).

[8.6] Textile industry pegged to grow 300% over next 2 years despite COVID impact, says report.19(Business India TodayMonday, November 22, 2021)

[8.4]29 Forecast for the future 2019-2026.It is a believe that during 2019- 2026, the India`s Textile Industry would target 8-9% CAGR. The ministry of Textiles has set and higher Export Target of $ 100 Billion over next five years and the Growth would

After being hit hard by COVID-19, India’s textile industry is well on course on the road to recovery. During the pandemic, the domestic textiles and apparels industry slumped to $75 billion after peaking at $106 billion in FY2020. However,

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government initiatives to bolster the sector have raised hopes of the sector growing to US$300 billion by 2025-26, a growth of 300 per cent in the next 2 years.

56 crore; total income was up over two folds to Rs 1,583.26 crore. Raymond Ltd on Wednesday reported a consolidated net profit of Rs 56.15 crore for the second quarter end.

There has been a remarkable turnaround in technical textiles. In terms of value, technical textiles imports exceeded exports by Rs 1,058 crore in FY20 while in FY21 exports exceeded imports by Rs 2,998 crore.

[8.7.7] Lakshmi Machine Standalone September 2021 Net Sales at Rs 792.42 crore, up 108.92% Y-o-Y. 26.07.2021. Lakshmi Machine Consolidated June 2021 Net Sales at Rs 457.62 crore, up 171.14% Y-o-Y. 29.10.21.

Indian technical textiles market could increase at a CAGR of 7.6 per cent in Asia-Pacific to reach $23.3 billion in 2027, up from $14 billion in 2020, says the report. Currently, Indian technical textiles constitute approximately 8 per cent of the global share.

[8.7.8] The Arvind Mill’s revenue from operations during July-September 2021 stood at Rs 2,115.14 crore, a jump of 62.05 per cent as against Rs 1,305.17 crore in the year-ago period. They are planning Rs.400cr investment as part of PLI Scheme (Production Linked Incentives)

Investment in value added services, e.g., marketing, warehouse rentals, logistics, courier, other product fulfilment costs constitute a pre-requisite for the sector going to scale. The textiles and apparel (T&A) industry contribute 2.3 per cent to the country’s GDP, 13 per cent to industrial production and 12 per cent to exports. [8.7] Some More Company News showing improvements.20 [8.7.1] 27/10/2021 • Net profit of Vardhman Textiles rose 699.55% to Rs 481.49 crore in the quarter ended September 2021 as against Rs 60.22 crore during the previous quarter ended September 2020. They have started units at Punjab, HP, MP with the accessibilities in Global Market. [8.7.2] Reliance Industries Q2 Net Profit Jumps 46% To Rs 15,479 Crore The net profit, on a YoY basis, rose to Rs 15,479 crore.IANSPublished: 22 Oct 2021, 10:11 PM IST [8.7.3] • 09/08/2021. Indorama Ventures Plc (IVL), a global chemicals producer, saw its consolidated revenue grow by 52% year-on-year, and up 10% quarter-on-quarter, to US$3.56 billion. Indorama is expanding Spandex capacity with new plant at Baddi with the capacity of 75 MT/ Day. [8.7.4] Trident Total Income – Sept 20=1171.44 and Sept 21 = 1662.57

[8.7.9] TCS Net Profit Jumps 29% To  9,624 Crore in Second Quarter TCS net profit surged 28.75% in its second quarter (Q2) profit -- ended on September 30 -- of the current financial year 2021-22 (FY22). [8.7.10]ITC Net Profit Rises 14% To  3,697 Crore in September Quarter, Revenue Up 11% ITC Limited Q2 Results: The cigarette segment reported a 10.2 per cent growth in revenue at  5,642 crore compared to  5,121 crore in the corresponding quarter last year. [8.7.11] Indo Count Industries Ltd, a leading manufacturer & exporter of home textiles has entered into a Business Agreement with GHCL Ltd for Rs.576 crore at Vapi, Gujarat 29 [8.7.12] Grasim has filed the world`s 1st patient for developing pulp (to manufacture VSF) from bamboo-based Rayon grade Plant Outside India. 29 [8.7.13] Sangam Announces Rs. 1321 crore investments on MOU with Rajasthan Govt. It`s aim is to increase their cotton business by 47% and knitted fabric by 28% 29 [8.7.14] Supreme Non-woven Group is setting new benchmarks in nonwoven Industries who is having 14 plants across India.

[8.7.5] Welspun India Q1 Net profit jumps over four-fold to 222.9 crore. With growth of 47% Y-o-Y.

[8.7.15] Sagar Expands Spinning & knitting capacity with 10,000 MT per annum with addition of 42000 Spindles.29

[8.7.6] 27/10/2021 • Raymond Q2 profit at Rs

[8.7.16] Sutlej inaugurates new Plant for PSF using

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recycled PET at Himachal.29 [8.7.17] Page Industries (Jockey International) is set target of US$1 billion in sales by 2026. 29 [8.7.18] Khosla Profile diversified from Chips/yarn to made up under one roof for liquid Filtrations.29 [8.7.19] Beekaylon Industriesis offering value addition with focus on sustainability. They have undertaken massive expansion plan of US$50 million by adding CP with capacity 9000 MT /Month with Dope dyed, FDY, BCF, DTY, Air Texturization,T wisted,cabled(fancy yarn with multiple twist) yarn, heat set polyester filament yarn (Carpet Yarn).29 [8.7.20] RSWM invested INR 330 crore for the expansion of Denim fab, Cotton Melange yarn. [8.7.21] Rajapayam Mills to invest Rs. 330 crorein weaving&fabric finishing. [8.7.22] Park Nonwoven Planned massive production capacity of more than 100 MT/ Day in all kinds of Non -woven Productive Technologies like spunbonded, melt blown, chemical bond, needle punched, thermal bond with all kinds of technical coating It is observed that after the setback in the year 2019 – 20 and that of 2020- 21, there is booming period in the Q2 of 2021-22 for almost all the industries. [8.6.23]21The Times of India dated 2nd January 22 has shown that the car sales have risen from the year 2019 (Start of the pandemic) and 2020 (fullyear of pandemic) in the year 2021 though lesser than that of 2017 and 2018. Please refer Fig no 2. All these rises in sales, turnover and profit margins are

in progress because of the opening of the market, trades, IT Sectors after the pandemic situations. The vacuum gaps are going to be fulfilled. [8.7] Herewith we are putting the data of 24 Textile mills, Spinning as well as Composite Mills mainly confined to Northern India that shows the impact of the Pandemic situation. Yearly Results of some of the Northern India Customers year to year

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

19 20 21 22

Vardhaman Textiles Trident Ltd RSWM Ltd Sutlej Group Sangam India Nitin Spinners Sportking India Ltd Banswara Syntex Ltd Nahar Spg Ltd NIEL Ltd Winsome Textile Maral Overseas Ltd Deepak Spinners Ltd Reliance Chemotex Indian Acrylics Ginni Filaments Ltd DCM LTd TT Ltd SICK COMPANIES JCT Ltd Shree Rajasthan Syn Winsome Yarn Ltd Vardhaman Polytex (OSWAL GROUP)

22 SOURCES

Reserve 192020 21

Turn over Rs.Crore 192020 21

Net profit 192020 21

ESTD

Equity

1965 1990 1960 2005 1984 1992

57.56 509.60 23.55 16.38 43.42 56.22

1989

3.48

249

1976 1980 1983 1980

17.12 18.03 39.84 19.82

325 801 606 167

1989

41.51

42

56

676

1982

7.19

136

152

1977 1986

7.54 135.32

91 7

98 13

1982 1889 1978

70.65 18.68 21.50

115 -206 53

1946

209.61

-189

122

693

657

-45

15

1979

13.70

-24

-48

69

37

-22

-24

1990

70.71

-418

107

-49

1980

22.29

-313

561

102

5609 5975 6325 5788 2457 2807 4724 4519 682 738 2771 2326 955 984 2379 1861 494 516 1783 1354 438 507 1438 1624

546 342 23 36 13 24

350 346 22 10 5 69

353 1358 1355

12

85

340 1290 803 880 2083 2112 694 1573 1418 166 662 624

53 -53 -25 -3

15 41 -9 -1

632

-15

13

464

397

15

16

301 744

260 526

9 11

7 6

788 -25 423

6 -25 -1

www.Moneycontrol.com

The Table shows that comparing to 2019-20 to that of 2020-21, almost all the companies has shown less profit. The Nitin Spinner, Sportking, Nahar Spg. Maral overseas have made profit. It was because of the better quality, product diversification, Marketing Policy and Managerial capacity. The Sick mills are working but to come at level. The year to year 2021-22 has shown good profit to almost all companies which will be declared after March 22. (Market Survey).

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The latest Market survey reveals that Vardhman is putting another 65510 spindles, Trident Budhni is putting 1 lakh spindles, RSWM is expanding with 72,000 spindles, Sangam is putting 30,000 spindles, Nahar Spinning is further adding 6000 spindles. All are doing very good. As a result, the LMW, Rieter are also doing well. [9] ITF Times 23shows in Q1, 21, the Export has gone up by 42% comparison to Cotton yarn, fabrics, Garments (Made up), H.L.Products ( High quality fabrics, Industrial Fabrics, Technical Textile , Speciality fabrics etc) in comparison to Q1, 19 and that of Q1, 18. Similarly % of Exports has also increased by 18% in Q1, 21, comparison to Q1 , 19 and that of 18 too in case of Manmade Yarns, Fabrics and Made ups. Please refer Figure 3. All the prospects are getting possible due to the increasing market demands, Management`s new policy decisions, Mission, Vision, and strategic Planning. Most of the managements Policy is to go for new Product developments, Modernisations, Skill work force, Strong R&D, and recruitment policies. Those who are lagging in those aspects are non-profit making organisations. However, the health care Industries always remain at Profitable stage including that of Pharmaceuticals.

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[10] The job opportunities of the Professionals today (January 22) 24 It is found that since Sept-Oct `21 to till now there is a favourable time for the engineers in the IT as well as in core sectors. The Job opportunities were very less since pandemic was started i.e., June/July 19 and that of the whole year of 2020 because of the slack in the business and trades. Today apart from IIT/IIM/NIT/NIFT etc, the other Engineering Colleges can send their freshers in the industries with higher pay than that of previous years. [10.1] One thing is noted that the MNC and that of IT sectors are in search of talents who are paying better renumeration to the deserving candidates. The Times of India dated 3rd January has published the same that in the 2-tier cities the renumerations are higher nowadays.


[10.2] 25The Times of India published that “It is the best placement season ever at IIT. The reason is the same that the organisations need the talents to run their industries in much professional ways than earlier because of the sufferings. [10.3] The Times of India dated 11th January 22 explains more job scopes Sept 2021. [10.4] 26. One reputed Engineering College in Maharashtra has proudly declared their Placements of 2021 & 2022 batches* with higher pays shown here. *Total offers received= 800+* during August 20 to Dec 21 *Placement offers to 2022 batch till 22/12= 400+* Highest package= 20 LPA No. of companies who offered placement= 45 Number of drives going on= 10+ *Mission 400 achieved*

technical textile industry. Owing to the pandemic, the demand for technical textiles in the form of PPE suits and equipment is on rise. Government is supporting the sector through funding and machinery sponsoring. Similarly, the Medical, Industrial Textiles and that of Smart Textiles are in high demand. Top players in the sector are attaining sustainability in their products by manufacturing textiles that use natural recyclable materials. The future for the Indian textiles industry looks promising, buoyed by strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. With consumerism and disposable income on the rise, the retail sector has experienced a rapid growth in the past decade with the entry of several international players like Marks & Spencer, Guess and Next into the Indian market.

*Total offers of 2021 batch= 407+*

High economic growth has resulted in higher disposable income. This has led to rise in demand for products creating a huge domestic market.

* Recruiters*:

[12] The uncertainity prevails:

Cognizant, TCS, Persistent, Capegemini, Infosys, Wipro, Goldman Sach, Dassult systems, TIAA, Reliance, Welspun, RS Lab, NeML, Hexaware, Iauro, Burns Macdowell +++++

Covid 3rd wave may pull GDP growth down to 7%: Economist Abhijit Banerjee

[10.5] There are so many such cases of Job opening now ( January 2022) This new tendency has generated very recently. (1) There are other side also that some students of avg. merit are ready to join in lesser pay because of the poor job opportunities in certain places. The female students are mostly affected. (2) Most of the students are showing interest in Mktg, PPC, Merchandising, etc. rather than to join in Production and shop floor. On conclusion it can be said that in the coming years there will be huge job opportunities with handsome pays as the industries are going for more and more innovative ideas, product developments for the higher profitability and to cope up with this, they prefer talented students.

[11] Road Ahead India is working on major initiatives, to boost its

Press Trust of India | Kolkata Last Updated on August 5, 2021, 22:35 IST27 Nobel laureate economist Abhijit Vinayak Banerjee apprehended that the impending third wave of the COVID-19 pandemic might adversely impact the GDP, and its growth rate might go down to 7 per cent, even below the IMF’s recent projection of 9.5 per cent. The novel coronavirus has a new name and new features now. Omicron is a highly transmissible mutated version of the COVID-19 virus. It was first reported on 24 November 2021 in South Africa and is quickly becoming the dominant variant. It is now discovered in more than 57 countries. After almost two years of restrictions, the world was beginning to relax. Business opportunities arise. People around the world are getting vaccinated at a record pace. In India, more than 10 million people have been vaccinated. The economy had picked up and things were about to get better, when the new COVID 19 mutant, Omicron destroyed the hope. (As

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published by Dinesh Exports28) The Textile Industry is heavily dependent on MSMEs. They play a major role in producing items for domestic and international markets. At a time when the global supply chain is already impacted with COVID-19 and lockdowns, Omicron is a threat to the industry. The second wave in the month of April-June `20 had already crippled many businesses and workers. With great efforts and help from the government, it had started to pick up. Now the Omicron is expected to disrupt the industry again. we can encourage all to follow necessary precautions and avoid the spread of the Omicron variant. There is a possibility for a third wave by February as WHO declared. The TOI dated 7.01.22 published that the Economists forecast downgrade of GDP for the 3rd wave. Q4 -22 is expected to come down to 5.4% Y-o-Y as per the earlier estimation of 6.1%. The TOI dated 8.01.22 says there will be substantial decline in the debt -to-GDP ratio. But the progress is found in each industry in comparison to 2020-21 to that of 2021-22.

scopes are expected for health-related workforce, digital & media, IT, supply chain managers, and Artificial Intelligent Officers. The 3rd wave, Omicron has started the path of disruption in education, hotel and tourism sectors and no predictions can be made right now. The economists are forecasting again the downward tendency of GDP. Let us hope for the betterments. [14] References 1. Market Research 2. Boston Consultancy Group report. 3. Ministry of Statistics & Program implantations (MOPSI) 4. Net Search 5. Modern Recruiters Team 6. Simuleen Kaur -20th July `21 inventiva.co.in/stories/economy-workers) 7. (Post-Pandemic Economic Recovery: Seven Priorities for India, Abhijit Mukhopadhyay Observer Research Foundation.) 8. Economic Times (ET) 21 July -21 9 .Times of India Survey (GIEL HR Services) 10.Market Research -2

Let us hope for the better (This paper was written from November 21 to 1st week of January `22)

11.ET 09.12.21

[13] Conclusion

13.Net search

Covid -19 created a setback for the industries, educational institutions, and in human life. Although the unemployment % shot up, migrant workers suffered a lot, but the normalcy has almost arrived gradually. The industries have taken its own shape, some of them have started making larger profits than the previous golden years before Corona. New and newer industries are coming up, some are expanding. The export potentially started growing. The education sectors were coming to near the normal but again it got disrupted (January 1st week`22). The scopes of the bright students started increasing who passed recently with new strategic planning of the industries in both IT & that of core sectors. Now style of working of the industries will differ in comparison to 2018 / 19 that work from home will be at higher stage for the white-collar jobs. The more

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12.ET 14.09.21 14.Statistical Profiles – Unemployment in India. 15.McKinsey Global Institute 16.PTI, New Delhi – 19th July 21 17.NIIT 18.Business India Today 10th August 21. 19.Business India Today 22 Nov 21 20.Net search 21.TOI Report 22.Market research, www. moneycontrol.com, 23.ITF Times 24.

Market Survey

25.

TOI News

26.

SGGS, Nanded T&P publications.

27.

PTI Kolkata, 5th August 21

28.

Dinesh Export Publications

29.

The Textile Magazine December -21


USTER Q-BAR 2 ®

Weave it right: spot defects on the loom

Inspecting fabrics after weaving is old school. With USTER ® Q- BAR 2 , smart weavers can pinpoint defects during fabric formation. It’s the right way to reduce material losses and minimize manual checks. When it comes to fabric quality issues, prevention is better than cure. The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are identified immediately. LED s signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can react to prevent long-running or repeating faults. USTER ® Q- BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output.

www.uster.com/qbar 2

9 TVC | Jan 2022


SWISS TEXTILE MACHINERY

GOING DIGITAL: SWISS TEXTILE MACHINERY SHOWS THE WAY Digitalization is a big story in the world of business. It’s all about change, making use of technology to transform attitudes and create new opportunities to grow revenue. At its heart is innovation, with new systems and intelligent use of data. In textiles, the entire value chain is going digital, as evidenced by the commitment of Swiss Textile Machinery Association member firms. Their story – presented here in six ‘chapters’ – spans industry sectors through spinning, weaving, finishing and nonwovens.

Cost savings and more The process of digitalization in the textile industry today is continuous – faster in some segments than others – but noticeable everywhere. Automation is promising in many areas of finishing and makingup, where initial investments are being made. An example is folding of finished goods, previously a slow manual operation. Now, high-performance automatic folding machines from Swiss company Espritech deliver the potential for cost savings, unlocking new options for positive change at this most labor-intensive stage of production. For manufacturers in low-cost areas, the benefit results from its volume and is a simple financial one. In higher-cost segments, the application of this technology can be part of a completely new business model, taking production closer to the end customer.

Better process, better workplace Pioneering in the field of digitalizationembraces social responsibility along with the introduction of bold new technological innovation. That’s a commitment made by Uster, as it aims to shape future working practices in the textile industry in areas where its systems are applied. In fabric inspection, that means combining the strengths of human capabilities with the performance of Artificial Intelligence. Automatic defect classification with machine learning technology is the next leap

in digitalization for fabric manufacturers, following on from automated detection of fabric faults, which is already well established in weaving and finishing mills. This will bring benefits in profitability for the manufacturer – as well as an improved working environment for their operatives, freed from repetitive tasks.

Information, flexible and fast Access to data is critical in the digitalized world of textiles. It must be flexible, fast and secure, and available to all levels of the company – worldwide. Jakob Muller serves the narrow fabrics industry ideally with a digitalization portal, perfectly developed to provide essential production information. The portal is a browser-based production data acquisition system, with direct access to the machine controls. The system offers unique data monitoring and communication on a global framework.Digitized weave rooms present information 24/7 on desktops at the customer’s plant, as well as on tablets and smartphones remotely.

Making the most of it Rieter takes advantage of latest digital technology to offer customers a unique experience. Their digital spinning suite helps spinners overcome their daily challenges and manage costs and efficiency more effectively. This all-in-one mill management systemconnects all the machinery, giving quick access to the right information and a holistic view, from bale to yarn. Users profit from full transparency, and are presented with recommendations based on long-standing experience and know-how. This is digitalization at its most practical, applied to allow spinners to make the most of their installed machinery.

Production, everything

service,

training

digital

As a solutions provider, Saurer puts digitalization

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at the core of business, integral to its technology offering to customers. Some latest examples include self-optimization of spinning machines,and a fully automated transport of cylindrical or conical cross-wound packages. These are automaticallystored in an internal buffer system, for later feeding to subsequent processes.Of course,aftersales service is also digital: the e-shop and machine information hub,together with the web-based training centre, ensure that knowledge is transferred to customers – turning employees into experts.

Speaking on behalf of Swiss Textile Machinery Association members, André Imhof, CEO of Autefa Solutions Switzerland AG, says: “Making digitalization our friend opens doors for business model innovations, which is essential for our industry competitiveness. The approach is to digitalize everything that can be digitalized. We won’t stop.” It’s also quite certain that there will be many more chapters of the digitalization story invented in Switzerland.

See the future system today Autefa Solutionsuses the concept of digital twinning, visualizing any real-world concept of a nonwovens lineto make it easier for potential customers to grasp the idea. It’s also a big help for training and servicing needs. Most of all they digitalize important parts e.g. of a baling press line with perfectly interconnecting software tools.This is an excellent method for reducing commissioning times. Ordered bale presses reach technical readiness in the form of a digital twin, before they are commissioned in the real world. This typically halves the total time to get the line up and running.

UNIQUE SOLUTIONS FOR PROCESSING VISCOSE WITH AIR-JET SPINNING Fiber consumption is on the rise, and man-made fibers play an important role in this. The consumption of cellulose fibers is growing the fastest and, due to their attractive properties, they are appreciated by spinning mills, downstream processing, and end users. The air-jet spinning machine J 26 offers new solutions for processing viscose with high productivity and quality. As population growth and prosperity increases, so does the consumption of fibers across the globe. While this holds true for all staple fibers, the use of man-made fibers such as cellulosic staple fibers and synthetic staple fibers is growing particularly quickly. The consumption of cellulosic staple fibers is expected to double to 10 million tons by 2030 while the consumption of synthetic staple

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fibers is expected to grow by 48% to 28 million tons compared to 2015 (Fig. 1). Rieter addresses these market needs and continuously develops special technology components and solutions for man-made fibers and blends for all end spinning processes.

Air-jet spinning strong in viscose Air-jet spinning is the dominant choice for processing cellulosic fibers – mainly viscose – and their blends with cotton. The high productivity and the low yarn conversion costs of viscose make it an attractive raw material for spinning mills. Along with its special properties, like less fluff and fly in knitting and weaving, it is also popular in downstream industries. End users particularly appreciate the


excellent pilling resistance and wash resistance of the finished products.

J 26 with new features The air-jet spinning machine J 26 offers several unique features for processing viscose. The new spinning nozzle housing “Z+1 High Speed” with a reshaped fiber feeding element ensures high yarn tenacity and production speed at the same time. The delivery speed can be increased to 480m/ min for 100% viscose Ne 30 without a loss in yarn quality. With 19 cN/tex, the yarn strength is the same as with the existing “Z-1” housing with a 17% lower delivery speed of 400 m/min (Fig. 2). This reduces the yarn conversion costs because the air pressure for twisting remains the same at a higher production speed. The J 26 is also well suited for processing blends with polyester: cotton with a proportion of up to 50% polyester and viscose with a proportion of up to 80% polyester.

An overview of all solutions for man-made fibers in the Rieter system, from the blowroom to all four end spinning processes, can be found on rieter.com

Fig. 1: The consumption of man-made fibers is expected to increase in the coming years.

Simplified handling and easy operation In addition to increased productivity, the operation has been simplified thanks to the option of opening the housing of the spinning nozzle. This means the nozzle and the housing can be cleaned easily and effectively without having to remove the ceramic spinning tip (Fig. 3). This results in fewer red lights and a reduced workload for operators. Spinning mills report a 50% reduction in operating time per event and red lights that are active for only 5 to 11 seconds compared to 25 to 45 seconds with a closed spinning nozzle housing.

Best package quality for downstream processes The J 26 offers pneumatic package damping for uniform package quality and efficient unwinding for downstream processes. Packages containing man-made fibers, especially viscose, tend to be very hard with even harder edges. This results in an unwinding that is unstable and brings about yarn breaks. To prevent the yarn from breaking, the density is kept consistent over the complete package build-up. The unique stroke respiration softens the edges  which is the secret for best unwinding performance. The optimized winding enables a 20% higher package weight with man-made fibers at the same diameter. This results in higher machine efficiency thanks to 20% fewer doffings. Weaving and knitting machines also benefit from less handling and less stops.

Fig. 2: High yarn tenacity and production speed in air-jet spinning thanks to the new spinning nozzle housing “Z+1 HS”.

Fig. 3: Easy cleaning thanks to the option of opening the spinning nozzle housing.

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59 TVC | Jan 2022


EVENT REPORT : NON WOVEN TECH ASIA

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ed r e ff

f Products o O s ie

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24 TVC | Jan 2022

+91 80800 62392 amritlakshmi.com amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com


MARKET REPORT

T-SHIRTS, SINGLETS AND OTHER VESTS, KNITTED/CROCHETED EXPORT T-shirts, Singlets and other Vests, Knitted/ Crocheted has been exporting in many countries in a huge number. In the USA in 2020 it was at US$418.72 million whereas in 2021 it increased by 59.7% i.e. US$668.7 million; in Arab Emirates it was at US$320.46 million in 2020 but it decreased by -2.19% i.e. US$313.43 million; in Germany the business increased by 19.2%, in 2020: US$147.79 million and in 2021: US$176.17 million; in UK in 2020 it was at US$119.13 million and in 2021 it grew by 8.53% i.e. US$129.29 million; in Nigeria in 2020 it was at US$94.93 million and in 2021 it became US$105.46 million i.e. 11.09%; in France it grew by 13.81% i.e. US$103.25 million in 2021 and in 2020

it was at US$90.73 million; in Netherland it was at US$62.56 million in 2020 whereas in 2021 it became US$ 76.32 million i.e. 22%; in Spain the growth went up to 2.75% i.e. US$ 73.53 million in 2021 and in 2020 it was just US$ 71.57 million; in SAUDI ARAB in 2020 the growth was at US$45.8 million while in 2021 it went up to US$ 57.37 million I.e. 25.27% & in Australia in 2020 it was at US$33 million and in 2021 it went up till 50.55% i.e. US$49.68 million. This is how the percentage of the growth of T-shirts, Singlets and other Vests, Knitted/Crocheted business kept on increasing in certain countries and decreasing in a few countries.

T-SHIRTS,SINGLETS AND OTHER VESTS, KNITTED/CROCHET

EXPORT

2500 2000

Unit US$ Million

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1500 1000

Jan-Dec 2020 (R) Jan-Dec 2021 (F)

500

%Growth

6

7

8

9

Unit US$ Million

10

TOTAL

5

OTHERS

SPAIN

SAUDI ARAB

4

AUSTRALIA

NETHERLAND

3

FRANCE

2

UK

1

NIGERIA

-500

GERMANY

0 USA

Country Jan-Dec 2020 (R) Jan-Dec 2021 (F) %Growth 1 US A 418.72 668.7 59.7 2 U ARAB EMTS 320.46 313.43 -2.19 3 GERMANY 147.79 176.17 19.2 4 UK 119.13 129.29 8.53 5 NIGERIA 94.93 105.46 11.09 6 FRANCE 90.73 103.25 13.81 7 NETHERLAND 62.56 76.32 22 8 SPAIN 71.57 73.53 2.75 9 SAUDI ARAB 45.8 57.37 25.27 10 AUSTRALIA 33 49.68 50.55 OTHERS 515.41 594 TOTAL 1920.1 2347.2

U ARAB EMTS

S.No.


54 TVC | Jan 2022


MARKET REPORT

TEXTILE MACHINERY IMPORT Unit: US $ Million

India - Tex�le Machinery Import

114.79

Auxiliary machinery and parts for tex�le machinery

3

Weaving machines (looms)

4

Machines for kni�ng, lace, embroidery, tu�ing, etc

224.42

754.88

1479.58

96.00

3

4

5

6

7

8

Korea

2

France

1

Netherland

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Machines for processing tex�le fibres Jan - Dec 2020

102.36

Auxiliary Machinery and Parts for Textile Machinery 900 in800 China had a US$66.85 million in 2020 whereas in700 2021 it became US$147.63 million i.e. 120.84%; Auxiliary Machinery and 600 Belgium in 2020 was at US$6.44 million Partswhereas for Tex�le in 500 Machinery Jan - Decof 2020 2021 it increased by US$12.6 million i.e. 95.65% 400 growth; in Czech Repub it was at US$1.11 Auxiliarymillion Machineryin and 300 Partsto for 889.19% Tex�le 200 wherein in 2021 its growth shot up 2020 Machinery Jan - Dec 2021 i.e.100US$10.98 million; Korea was at just US$4.47 0 Auxiliary Machinery and million in 2020 while in 2021 it became US$7.34 -100 Parts for Tex�le million and Germany was at US$59.26 million Machinery % Growthin 2020 where as in 2021 it became US$112.41 million. Japan

Machines for processing tex�le fibres Jan - Dec 2021

330.66

Auxiliary Machinery and Parts for Textile Machinery

Switzerland

Machines for processing tex�le fibres % Change

Japan China Germany Netherland Italy Switzerland Belgium Malaysia Hong Kong France

Unit: US $ Million

1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0

62.14

by US$126.52 million i.e. 331.81%; in Italy it grew up till 125% in 2021 i.e. US$21.69 million whereas in 2020 it was just US$9.64 million; in Switzerland in 2020 it was at US$ 8.49 million and in 2021 it became US$19.42 million i.e. 128.74%; Malaysia it was at US$ 2.62million in 2020 while in 2021 it inclined by US$8.22 million i.e. 213.74% and in France in 2020 it was at US$0.22 million whereas in 2021 it went till US$3.21 million i.e. 1359.09%.

China

Machines for processing textile fibres in Japan was at US$ 29.3 million in 2020 and in 2021 it increased

83.39

409.03

163.40

Germany

Machines for processing textile fibres

186.02

411.57

252.27

Total

Textile Machinery has different types of products like machines for processing textile fibres, suxiliary machinery and parts for textile machinery, weaving machines (looms) and machines for knitting, lace, embroidery, tufting. All these products totally in the year 2020 has a turnover of US$809.26 million whereas in 2021 it went up till US$1564.34 million and the growth is 93.30%.

328.32

Czechrepub

2

Machines for processing textile fibres

Jan - Dec % Change 2021

Italy

1

Jan - Dec 2020

Commodity Name

Belgium

S.No.

Unit: US $ Million

9 10

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Machines for Knitting, Lace, Embroidery, Tufting Unit US$ Million

Weaving Machines (Looms) 100% 80%

100%

40%

Weaving Machines (Looms) Jan - Dec 2020

0%

Unit: US $ Million

-80%

Weaving Machines (Looms) in China in 2020 it was at US$107.07 million and in 2021 it became US$242.54 million i.e. 126.52%; in Turkey in 2020 it was at US$2.38 million and in 2021 became US$ 4.42 million i.e. 85.71%; in UAE in 2020 it was at US$5.47 million whereas in 2021 it declined by US$ 3.52 million i.e. -35.65%; in the USA in 2020 was at US$3.36 million whereas in 2020 it grew by 164.29% i.e. US$8.88 million and in Hong Kong in the year 2020 it was at US$ 4.65 million and in 2021 it became US$ 8.15 million i.e. 75.27%.

-60%

USA

Singapore

Italy

Korea

Japan

-20% -40%

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Machines For Kni�ng, Lace, Embroidery, Tu�ing, Etc Jan - Dec 2021

20% Turkey

UAE

Netherland

Turkey

Germany

USA

Italy

Weaving Machines (Looms) Jan - Dec 2021

Switzerland

-60%

Hong Kong

-40%

Belgium

-20%

China

0%

Japan

20%

Machines For Kni�ng, Lace, Embroidery, Tu�ing, Etc % Growth

60%

Taiwan

40%

80%

China

Weaving Machines (Looms) %Growth

Germany

60%

Machines For Kni�ng, Lace, Embroidery, Tu�ing, Etc Jan - Dec 2020

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Unit: US $ Million

-80%

Machines for Knitting, Lace, Embroidery, Tufting in Germany was at US$ 12.63 million: 2020 whereas in 2021: US$ 26.23 million i.e. 107.68%; in Taiwan in 2020 it was at US$ 13.95 million wherein in 2021 it raised up till 55.34% i.e. US$21.67 million; in Turkey in 2020 it was at US$ 0.67 million whereas in 2021 it became US$ 6.64 million i.e. 891.04%; in Singapore in the year 2020 it was at US$0.82 million while in 2021 it increased by US$ 2.53 million i.e. 208.54% and in Italy in 2020 it was at US$ 1.02 million while in 2021 it became US$ 4.48 million i.e. 339.22%.

MARKET REPORT

TECHNICAL TEXTILE IMPORT A technical textile is a textile product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where function is the primary criterion. Technical textiles include textiles for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g., implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop

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protection), and protective clothing. The sector is large, growing, and supports a vast array of other industries.The global growth rate of technical textiles is about 4% per year. Currently, technical textile materials are most widely used in filter clothing, furniture, hygiene medicals and


construction material. Technical textile import includes various products like textile wall coverings which had a business of US$0.58 million in the year 2020 whereas in 2021 it grew upto US$0.77 million that is 31.43%; intrnsmsn/convyrblts/bltng of txtlmatrlwh/ ntimprgntdcotd,covrd/lamntdwthplstcorrinfrcdwthmtl/other material had a growth of 49.82%, in 2020 it was US$8.93 million and in 2021 it went upto us$13.38 million; txtlwicks,woven,plaited/ knitted,forlampsstoves,lighters,candlesetc;incan descent gas mantles etc,w/n impregnated in 2020 is US$0.95 million and it increased upto US$ 1.35 million that is 41.9%; textile fabrics coated with gum or amylaceous substances, of a kind used for the outer covers of books or the lik had a growth of 5.93% that is in 2020 it was US$4.04 million and in 2021 it grew by US$4.28 million; tyre cord fabric of high tenacity yarn of nylon or other polyamides, polyesters or viscose rayon had a incline of 112.79%, in 2020 it was at US$161.99 million whereas in 2021 became US344.69 million; linoleum, whether or not cut to shape; floor coverings consisting of a coating or covering applied on a textile backing had a business upto 160.77% , in 2020 it was us$0.17

million whereas in 2021 it became us$0.43 million; textile products and articles, for technical uses, specified in note 7 to this chapter had a growth upto US$62.37million in 2020 where as in 2021 US$82.81 million that is 32.78%; txtlfbrcsimprgntd,coatd,cvrd/ lamntdwth plastics had a business of 41.13% i.e. In 2020 it was at US$225.78 million and in 2021 it became US318.64million; textile hose piping and similar textile tubing, with or without lining, armour or accessories of other materials had a business growth of US$5.09million in 2021 wherein in 2020 it was just US$4.05million that is 25.67%; rubberised textile fabrics had a growth of 66.42%, in 2020 it was at US$25.59million and in 2021 it went up to US$42.58million; and txtlfbrcsothrwseimprgntd,coated/cvrd; painted canvas being theatrical scenery, studio back-clothes had a growth of 45.97%, in 2020 it was at a low stage that is US$10.96million wherein its growth when upto US$16million. There was a growth in the year 2021 compared to 2020 in all the products of technical textile, whereas the percentage keeps in fluctuating for each product individually.

Unit US$ Million

Commodity

Tex�le wall coverings Transmission or conveyor belts or belting of textile Tex�le wicks and gas mantles Tex�le fabric coated with gum or s�ffened nes Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity manmade yarn Linoleum, floor covering with coa�ng on tex�le back Special tex�le products for technical purposes Fabric impregnated, coated or covered with plastic Textile hosepiping and similar textile tubing Rubberised tex�le fabric, except tyre cord Tex�le fabric treated for theatrical backdrops, etc

Jan-Dec Jan-Dec %Growth 2020 (R) 2021 (F)

0.58 8.93 0.95 4.04 161.99 0.17 62.37 225.78 4.05 25.59 10.96

0.77 13.38 1.35 4.28 344.69 0.43 82.81 318.64 5.09 42.58 16

31.43 49.82 41.9 5.93 112.79 160.77 32.78 41.13 25.67 66.42 45.97

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Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester 20 Denier to 300 Denier in S & Z twists for High end Seamless Knitting and Medical Bandages

Single And Double Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester Single Covered Yarns 20 Denier to 250 Denier

Double Covered Yarns

350 Denier to 1400 Denier

Corporate Office : SF-34, Vasant Square, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi – 110070, India 50 TVC | Jan 202209264, 96506 54343 Email : mani@bishnutexport.com Mobile : +91 98100


MARKET REPORT

NATURAL FIBRE IMPORT Silk Silk Commodity

Silk worm cocoons suitable for reeling Woven fabric of silk or of silk waste Yarn spun from silk waste, not retail Raw silk (not thrown) Silk yarn retail, silk worm gut Silk yarn (except from waste) not for retail Silk waste Unit US$ Million

Jan-Dec Jan-Dec %Growth 2020 (R) 2021 (P)

0 60.03 2.27 0.14 0.7 0.27 18.4

0.94 20873.33 79.08 31.73 2.17 -4.59 1.54 985.38 0.7 -0.94 1.76 547.25 30.15 63.89

Silk has a very high growth percentage in almost all countries. Silk had a growth in Vietnam in 2020 that was US$46.53 million whereas in 2021 it went upto US$74.63 million i.e. 60.39%; in Brazil it was at US$0.99 million in 2020 wherein in 2021 it went upto US$3.16 million i.e. 217.77%; in Thailand it was just US$0.01 million in 2020 wherein in 2021 it became 5680.17% i.e. US$0.7 million; in the USA in 2020 it was US$0.08 million and in 2021 it became US$0.59 million and in Italy it was US$0.09 million in 2020, in 2021 it became US$0.42 million i.e. 415.42%. Cotton

up by 42.01% i.e. US$93.94 million; in Israel it was at US$4.14 million in 2020 whereas in 2021 it went to US$12.71 millioni.e a growth of 207.39%; in Turkey business was at US$6.69 million in 2020 wherein in 2021 it went till US$12.09 million i.e. 80.61%; in Greece in 2020 it was at US$6.41 million and in 2021 it went upto US$10.18 million i.e. 58.71% and in rest other countries in 2020 it was at US$117 million whereas in 2021 it increased by 6751.23% i.e. US$70.13 million. Unit US$ Million Wool, animal hair, horsehair yarn and fabric thereof Commodity

Jan-Dec Jan-Dec %Growth 2020 (R) 2021 (P)

Woven fabric of carded wool or fine animal hair 3.31 Fine or coarse animal hair, not carded or combed 0.18 Yarn of fine animal hair, not retail 0.04 Wool, not carded or combed 0.11 Yarn of carded wool, not retail 3.54 Woven fabric of combed wool or fine animal hair 13.33 Garne�ed stock of wool or of animal hair 0.2 63.11 Yarn of combed wool, not retail Woven fabric of coarse animal hair, horse hair 0.04 Yarn of coarse animal hair or of horsehair 0.02 Wool and animal hair, carded or combed 9.41 Waste of wool or animal hair, except garne�ed stock 3.72 Yarn of wool or of fine animal hair, retail 4.24

5.71 0.28 0.03 0.09 4.83 19.75 0.1 69.19 0.03 0 7.98 4.66 5.55

72.6 55.7 -37.12 -14.12 36.53 48.16 -48.75 9.62 -14.04 -78.95 -15.13 25.3 30.94

Wool, Animal hair, horsehair yarn & fabric

Wool, Animal hair, horsehair yarn & fabric is on high demand as the winter season is going on so the business is at a peak. In Australia was at US$65.52 million in 2020 whereas in 2021 it went upto US$92.05 million i.e. 40.49% increase; in Syria it was at US$11.73 million in 2020 and in 2021 it went upto Co�on US$12.39 million i.e. 5.65% of growth; in Turkey in Jan-Dec Jan-Dec Commodity %Growth 2020 (R) 2021 (P) 2020 it was at US$6.57 million while in 2021 it went Co�on yarn not sewing thread greater than 85 percentage 2610.36 co�on, 4689.26 not retail 79.64 upto US$9.71 million that is 47.73%; in Italy in the Co�on yarn (except sewing) less than 85 percentage co�on, 70.29 not228.75 retail 225.44 year 2020 it was at US$6.38 million and in 2021 it Co�on sewing thread 14.82 19.99 34.82 Woven co�on, less than 85 percentage co�on with manmade 35.39 fibre, 71.09 less than 100.89 200g m2went till 23% of growth that is US$7.84 million and in Woven co�on fabric, greater than 85 percentage co�on, 942.84 less than 1247.48 200g m2 32.31 the UK the growth was 24.76% that is in 2020 it was Woven co�on nes, greater than 85 percentage co�on, greater 379.3 than 591.81 200g m256.03 at US$5.31 million and in 2021 it became US$6.63 166.77 fibre, 286.89 greater than 72.03200g m2 Woven fabric, less than 85 percentage co�on with manmade million. Co�on yarn (except sewing thread) retail 1.27 1.95 53.55

Cotton prices are growing day by day and it is a very highly growing industry in textile. In the USA cotton was at US$156.18 million in 2020 while in 2021 it grew upto US$223.47 million i.e. 43.09%; in China in 2020 it was at US$66.15 million while in 2021 it went

Co�on, not carded or combed 1460.74 Woven co�on fabric, nes 55.43 Co�on, carded, combed 14.8 Co�on waste, including yarn waste and garne�ed stock84.06

2683.91 54.04 52.08 99.75

83.74 -2.51 251.96 18.67

Unit US$ Million

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Vegetable textile fibres; paper yarn and woven fabrics of paper yarn.

Vegetable tex�le fibres nes, paper yarn, woven fabri

Vegetable textile fibres; paper yarn and woven fabrics of paper yarn has a growth which is quite fluctuating in every country. In Bangladesh it was at US$114.07 million in 2020 whereas in 2021 it went upto 15.09% i.e. US$131.29 million; in Belgium it grew up till 91.95%, in 2020 it was at US$31.82 million where as in 2021 it went upto US$61.08 million; in Hongkong it was at US$1.03 million in 2020 and in 2021 it increased by US$2.03 million i.e. 97.18%; in France it was at US$17.71 million in 2020 and in 2021 it went till US$31.91 million i.e. 80.13% and in Lithuania it was at US$2.87 million in 2020 and in 2021 it inclined by US$3.4 million i.e. 18.4%.

Yarn of jute, bast fibre except flax, true hemp, rami 14.86 True hemp, raw or processed but not spun 0.01 Woven fabric of jute or other bast fibres of 53.03 65.39 Jute, other bast fibre, raw or processed, not spun 19.89 Woven fabric of other vegetable tex�le fibre or pape 9.87 Flax yarn 3.9 Sisal, Agave, raw, processed, not spun, tow and waste 34.36 Woven fibres of flax 321.22 Coconut, abaca, ramie, veg fibres nes, not spun, wast 5.39 Yarn of other vegetable tex�le fibres, paper yarn 3.16

Jan-Dec Jan-Dec %Growth 2020 (R) 2021 (P)

Commodity

These were the Import percentages of all the natural fibresi.e.silk, cotton, wool, animal hair, horsehair yarn & fabric & vegetable textile fibres; paper yarn and woven fabrics of paper yarn.

21.96 0.01 108 31.8 9.62 6.34 47.25 437.09 7.01 6.35

47.82 -28.06 65.16 59.91 -2.49 62.55 37.49 36.07 29.97 100.72

Unit US$ Million

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4th-6th F & A / Apparel Sourcing Fair/ Homtex Bangalore, India. https://textilefairsindia.com/

28th-29th FILTER MEDIA: 1.5-DAY COURSE Online conference https://www.inda.org/training/filter-mediatraining.php

29th -31st INDIA FASHON TEX (RBSM) New Delhi, India http://www.indiafashiontex.com/

30th-31th IDEA 22 Miami Beach, FL USA https://www.ideashow.org/register.html

30th-1st APLF Dubai 2022 Dubai, UAE https://www.aplf.com/#

06th-08th FASHION WORLD TOKYO Tokyo, JAPAN https://www.fashion-tokyo.jp/spring/ en-gb.html?co=ml0111e

19th-21th Global Yarn & Fabric Sourcing Show 2022 Virtual exhibition https://www.globalsourcingshow.com

26th-28th PromoTex Expo 2022 Germany/ EU https://www.psi-messe.com

27th-30th CISMA 2022 Shanghai / China http://en.cisma.com.cn/index.php/Index/ index.html

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FASHION

FASHION IN FORMALS By- Muskaan Valecha

Fashion in Formals has various aspects which can make you look different from others so one must follow some dress codes and styles to stand out in the crowd.

maintain their body by eating healthy food to stay fit because if you are fit then all the types of formal dresses will make you look smart and eventually that will boost your Confidence in front of everyone.

Colour Combinations and Styling

When you are dressing up, you should keep one thing in mind that your dress should be matching with all your accessories and shoes. As mentioned above, if you go with all those colour combinations then that will make you look like a Masterpiece between the crowd. A crowd should look at you with Respect and their reaction should be like, “WOW! What an Amazing Look!”

Formal dress code or a formal wear is an attire worn on an Official Occasion like Conferences, Meetings, Weddings, etc., There are a few colours that will suit the formal dress code such as blue and brown in terms of a shirt and trouser that will eventually make you look smart; when we look at a bright blue blazer with a white shirt which will perfectly go with a lighter shade of beige pant and here is a ready to go Office attire; when we look at grey in formals whether it is for men or women, it stands out in the crowd out there and commands attention; Sky blue shirt and Mustard pant together looks very classy and it gives very powerful look; light grey styled with a lovely red shirt having a classic formal pattern looks very good; as you know there are multiple shades of grey which looks fantabulous in formals so we can match it with a baby pink colour which gives a very attractive look; dark green with a shade of brown gives a luxurious look in any formal event; a brown tie with a white and black tiny checks shirt and a wine colour suit will give you an unforgettable look which will be unique for others out there; white and black is the most worn colour in formals and that gives a superb look but I think you should try out all the varieties and explore different colours in a formal wear. A formal look in most of the events or occasions’ commands attention and that is something everyone wants, a dress code which seeks attention and a dress code which commands attention has a huge difference. Seeking attention is getting people’s attention when you are wearing clothes or anything which is noticeable and weird and that is something which spoils your impression, wherein the dress code which commands attention is essentially earning attention because you are worth that attention. Dressing Sense When we look at a Formal dress code, one should wear a dress which suits their personality and according to their body structure. One should

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You should Imagine yourself in a particular clothing whenever you go for shopping because that imagination will help you see yourself in Formals and if you feel that is perfect for you then go ahead with that. Types of Clothes When we look at the types of Clothes in Formals, we have different types for both Men as well as Women i.e., for Men we have Shirt, Blazer and Pant; for Women we have Skirt, Top, Pant, Shirt and Blazer and with the help of these limited options if we choose a perfect colour and a formal outfit that suits our body, that is called Fashion. We can also follow the Colour Combinations mentioned above for both Men as well as Women. There are a few brands which you can go for while you go shopping for your formal wear such as Zodiac, Louis Philippe, Brooks and Brothers and Van Heusen. This is how Fashion is built in Formal Wear and if you want to look Smart and Confident then you must follow certain kinds of colour combinations and dressing sense.


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FINISH FABRIC & GARMENTS

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