ONE OF THE LARGEST EXPORTERS OF COTTON YARN FROM INDIA TO PORTUGAL Range Carded (Hosiery & Weaving) • Combed (Hosiery & Weaving) Slub • Spandex • Slub Spandex Elite Twist (Siro Compact) • Compact • TFOs
Markets ASIA
AFRICA
EUROPE
Truetzschler Blowroom Line
SOUTH AMERICA
BANGLADESH
EGYPT
PORTUGAL
PERU
CHINA
MOROCCO
POLAND
COLUMBIA
SRI-LANKA
TUNISIA
SPAIN
GUATEMALA
MALAYSIA
MAURITIUS
TURKEY
PHILIPPINES
GERMANY
SOUTH KOREA
ITALY
Uster AFIS - HVI
NORTH AMERICA USA CANADA
VIETNAM
UT-5
LMW Ring Frame
Approved Supply Chain Vendors For Enquiries Pranav Rathi - E-mail: pranav@bmhouse.in • pranav@rsbcottex.com • Mob.: +91 9986022878 Naresh Rathi - E-mail: naresh@rsbcottex.com • naresh@bmhouse.in • Mob: +91 9377924489 Web: www.rsbcottex.com | www.bmhouse.in
“A” RANK
PSCP
ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707
www.textilevaluechain.in
VOLUME 10 | ISSUE NO. 05 | RS 100 | Pages 98
MAY 2022
Startups Galore!
Visit us at ITM 2022 Istanbul, Turkey June 14-18, 2022 Hall No. 3 Stand No. 308 C
2 TVC | MAY 2022
Texfair Coimbatore June 24-27, 2022 Hall No. BA37, BA 38 & BA39
Une Marque Riche en Qualité
TFO
Weaving
Spinning
Ginning
Website: www.lemeriteexports.com
3 TVC | MAY 2022
yarn@lemeriteexports.com
4 TVC | MAY 2022
Unleash your creativity in Jacquard weaving Jacquard fabric variations are endless, and Stäubli Jacquard machines set no limits to your creativity. From simple flat weaves to elaborately ornamented silk, from unique ribbons to full-width carpeting, let your imagination fly. Hundreds of weaving mills around the world count on the versatility, quality, and precision of Stäubli machines for optimum flexibility, robustness, and maximum productivity. www.staubli.com
5 TVC | MAY 2022
6 TVC | MAY 2022
We provide world-class
Textile Air Engineering Equipment! Luwa specializes in Textile and Industrial Air Engineering for high-perfomance Textile Mills:
%
luwa.com 7 TVC | MAY 2022
Stable humidity levels
Minimized temperature fluctuations
Reliable fibre recovery and disposal
Mill cleanliness for workers safety and optimal machine efficiency
Luwa India Pvt. Ltd. — # 3P-5P, Gangadharanapalya — Kasaba Hobli, Off Tumkur Road — Nelamangala, Bangalore North — 562 123, India
TM
Dare to be different From day one, we as Narmada Group have never compromised in the quality of our products. We have always kept the needs of customers before our needs. Our core values have remained as strong as an ox and that is what makes us a unique brand, a brand which has always thrived to improve at every other step since it's inception. Our commitment to the customers has helped us in developing long-term relations with them. Our consistency in prioritising our customers by giving them quick and reliable response has helped us in reaching this benchmark in open end cotton yarn and made us a company with complete integrity.
OUR PRODUCTS OPEN END WEAVING YARN | KNITTING YARN | SLUB YARN
Narmada spun Pvt. Ltd. Bamanbore - Wakaner National Highway, No.27, R.S. No.23/1, At : Bhalgam, Ta : Wakaner, Dist : Morbi - 363621
8 TVC | MAY 2022
Narmada spinning Pvt. Ltd. Bamanbore - Wakaner National Highway, 8-A, Survey No.240/2&3, At : Jalida, Ta : Wakaner, Dist : Morbi(Gujarat) - 363621
Single point source for Textile Engineering Solutions Spinning
Knitting
Processing
Technical Textiles
Textile Engineering
9 TVC | MAY 2022
ERP Software Solutions
Batliboi Ltd.
Textile Machinery Group, Dubash House, 2nd Floor, 15, J. N. Heredia Road, Ballard Estate, Mumbai - 400 001, India. Phone : +91 22 3512 0032 Email : btmg@batliboi.com Web : www.batliboi.com
10 TVC | MAY 2022
11 TVC | MAY 2022
Hosiety
/day
12 TVC | MAY 2022
Email:marutitexprocess@gmail.com www.marutitexprocess.com TVC| |Feb Feb2022 2022 77 TVC
Yarns | Fabrics | Garments
Proudly delivering
ETHICALLY MADE TEXTILE PRODUCTS across the globe
We are one of the most reputable textile manufacturers and exporters based in Gujarat, India. We Have Spinning Capacity of 27360 Spindles with forward integration to our spinning we have now installed ultra modern fabric manufacturing, with Dyeing & Processing unit with soft flow and continuous dyeing with 20tons/day capacity with Rotary Printing unit we also have ultra modern sewing machines for our Garment factory with 25000 pcs/day capacity. We work with several stages in Manufacturing to deliver premium quality Raw Cotton, Cotton Yarn, Fabrics, and Garments to clients across the globe. We also provide supportive after-sales service for Quality Assurance which makes us a reliable and approachable textile partner which adds an element of convenience to the client's side. We also have an strong presence in sourcing of Weave Fabrics and Home Textiles will adds an summate to the value thus establishing a farsighted and sustainable professional relationship with our buyers.
PRODUCT CATEGORY Yarns
Fabrics
Ring Spun Combed, Cotton Compact, Carded Yarns
NE 16s-60s for Knitting & Weaving Yarns
Open End & Auto Coro Yarns
Ne4/1 to Ne30/1 for Weaving & knitting.
TFO Doubled Yarn
NE 16/2 to 40/2 TFO / Ring Doubled Yarns for Knitting & Weaving
Fabrics
We have a wide Range of Knitted Greige & Finished Fabrics like, SingleJersey, Single Jersey with Spandex, Terry, Fleece(2 thread & 3thread–with Sueding option) with and without plaiting, Pique (with collars and cuffs-standard as well as jacquard), Waffle, Mini-Waffle, Rib & Interlock Fabrics.
Home Furnishing
Garments
SPECIFICATION
Garments
Our Finished Fabrics comes with Pigment Prints, Discharge Prints, Reactive Prints, Polyester disperse Prints and Burnout Prints. Cotton &Sheet Sets from Percale to TC 1000, Jersey Sheet Sets, Polyester CottonBed Spreads, Comforter and Comforter Shells, Bed Skirts, Bolster Pillows, Sofa covers and Cushion covers, Table Linen, Curtains, Tie-backs and Valances, Baby Products, Flannel Blankets and Coated Fabrics,Terry Towels, Bathrobes, etc.
We cover garment ranges for New Born Babies,Kids,Men,Women like Tshirts, Shirts, Tracks, Pullovers, etc
Yarns | Fabrics | Garments info@vatsalexports.com | www.vatsalexports.com
13 TVC | MAY 2022
14 TVC | MAY 2022
15 TVC | MAY 2022
CONTENT
Table of
22
19 22 24 27 30 34 38
COVER STORY Startups - Opportunities galore!
Startups – Powering national growth Startups: prospects in fashion field
INTERVIEW Capximize aims to help enhance Capacity utilisation Sustainability begins from scratch : Sanjay Gupta
Vintage meadows by Raysil Raina Industries: Nothing Succeeds like Innovation!
OPINION
41 44 45
Need of an eco-friendly alternative in Textile industry Strengthening MSMEs Things to try if your business isn’t growing!
REVIEW PAPER : E- TEXTILES
48
E-textiles: a review
53
Sustainable dyeing innovations
Sustainable Dyeing REACTIVE DYES
72 75 77
MARKET REPORT India’s exports of technical textiles witnessed a hike
MMF Report
EVENTS ADVERTISER INDEX
Cover Page: SKY SPINTEX Gatefold: RSB/BM HOUSE
Back Page: RAYMOND Back Inside: RAYSIL Front Inside: RIMTEX Page 3: LE MERITE Page 4: RADHESHYAM
Page 5: STAUBLI Page 6: ITM Page 7: LUWA Page 8: NARMADA Page 9: BATLIBOI Page 10: REAL SPINTEX Page 11: FIOTEX Page 12: MARUTI Page 13: VATSAL
Page 14: GLOSSY
Page 15: CHINTAMANI Page 18: YASH MACHINES Page 26: SAURER Page 29: KEN Page 33: BISHNU TEXPORT
61
Recent developments of reactive dyes
Page 37: SAKTHI INDUSTRIES Page 40: SWISSMEM
65
NEW PRODUCTS
Page 43: SHAHLON SILK
CORPORATE PROFILE
69 16 TVC | MAY 2022
38
BSL to double turnover to Rs. 900 crore by FY 2023-2024
Page 47: USTER Page 52: COSMO Page 60: TEX FAB ENGINEERS
Page 64: ATE - PROCESSING
Page 68: OMAX Page 71: MEERA INDUSTRIES Page 74: WELL KNOWN Page 76: RAMKRISHNA COTSPIN Page 78: AMRITLAKSHMI
Page 79: TVC DIGITAL Page 80: INTEX SOUTH ASIA Page 81: AMBER
Page 82: UNITECH TEXMECH Page 83: ALLIANCE Page 84: SHIDDHANATH COTEX Page 85: SAFAR Page 86: SIYA EXPORT Page 87: WEAVEKNIT
Page 88: NIVA EXPORT Page 89: TEXFAIR
Page 90: COLORJET Page 91: YARN EXPO SURAT Page 92: SKY SPINTEX
Page 93: DODHIA Page 94: NON WOVEN Page 95: IGM
Startups Hit Bottleneck It was great going for startups in India in the last two years, with some of them becoming unicorns. But in the Q2 of this year, they have hit a stumbling block by way of funds crunch. Startups are created to provide more jobs, but currently many of them find surplus workforce and have started slimming down. They are also going slow on recruitment apart from rationalising the staff. Some are reported to have even laid off some workforce. Research firm CB Insights says that global venture funding for startups is expected to fall by 19% in the Q2 of this year. Asian startups, which have raised US$12.7 billion so far, are likely to witness the steepest fall of 31%. The reasons are tightening liquidity and global meltdown as well as macro-economic factors. Startup India is a flagship initiative of the Government of India, intended to build a strong eco-system for nurturing innovation and startups in the country that will drive sustainable economic growth and generate large scale employment opportunities. The action plan of this initiative is focussing on three areas: Simplification and Handholding. Funding Support and Incentives. Industry-Academia Partnership and Incubation. The top 5 Government Schemes for startups and MSMEs in India are: Pradhan Mantri Mudra Yojana, Credit Guarantee Trust Fund for Micro & Small Enterprises (CGTSME), Financial Support to MSMEs in ZED Certification Scheme, Credit Linked Capital Subsidy for Technology Upgradation (CLCSS) and Design Clinic for Design Expertise to MSMEs. According to Government data, the Startup Ecosystem facilitated through various government departments & programmes are: 4000+ startups have benefitted in the last year; Rs. 960 crore of funding has been enabled to startups through various schemes; Rs. 828 crore sanctioned funds for infrastructure. With the objective to build a strong eco-system for nurturing innovation and startups in the country the Government launched a startup India Action Plan and ‘Startup India Seed Fund’ worth Rs. 1,000 crore. “Take up one idea. Make that one idea your life, think of it, dream of it, live on that idea, let the brain, muscles, nerve, every part of your body be full of that idea and just leave every other idea alone. This is the way to success,” said Mr Narendra Modi, Prime Minister of India. It’s high time startups liquidity problems are fixed and their mission realised..
17 TVC | MAY 2022
SUBSCRIPTION Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/ Subscription Enquiry Ms. Vaibhavi Kokane +91-9869634305 ; textilevaluechain123@gmail.com
Scan and Open
EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah
ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING Mr. Samuel Joseph
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ms. Neha Bisht
CREATIVE DESIGNER Ms. Poiyamozhi P S
marketing and advertising enquiry Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com REGISTERED OFFICE:
Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT. LTD. Ms. Jigna Shah 504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
Inspection, Measuring & Rewinding Solutions
For Stretch Sensitive Fabrics KEY FEATURES Open Width Knits
Designed for tensionless handling, inspection, measuring and rewinding of delicate fabrics PLC controlled synchronizing systems Variable roll compactness Roll Handling, Packing & Sorting Option to set machine parameters based on the fabric qualities
Inspection Machine Model: IOK
MACHINES FOR DELICATE FABRICS
Knits Lycra
Elastic, Knits, Lycra
Elastic
Inspection Machine
By-stretch
Model: IRE www.yashtex.com 18 TVC | MAY 2022
I
sales@yashtex.com
I
+91 9167772065
Cover Story
STartUps OPPORTUNITIES GALORE! By Samuel Joseph
A
decade ago, India had one unicorn, which is the ultimate dream and crowning glory of startups. Today, we have 100 unicorns making India the third largest unicorn cluster, valued at US$300 billion. Though textile industry may not figure prominently in this new breed of shapers and movers, days are not far off when some of the startups achieve this distinction. How? Startups in India show abounding inspiration and energy. Best of all, opportunities are multiplying thanks to availability of accelerator funds, rise of new ideas post hibernation during Covid times, concepts like Atmanirbhar and sheer entrepreneurship of individuals. According to a PwC Report, the startup ecosystem has created as many as 14 unicorns in the first three months of 2022, and for the third consecutive quarter, they have received over US$10 billion across 334 funding deals.
design in Italy, I looked at the business models of several well-known fashion firms. Inspired by their success, I decided to emulate it in AKS, in May 2014 with a bit of seed capital of Rs.3.5 lakh.” AKS has now grown to a turnover of Rs.200 crore and presently serve over a lakh consumer every month without any outside funding. Founded in 2016 by Mr. Vijay Sharma, Mr. Anupam Deo Arya and Mr. Sandeep Sharma, Fabriclore, which literally means ‘stories of fabrics’, is an online brand that aims to revive India’s use of both traditional and modern fabrics by delivering premium curated fabrics. Anupam Deo Arya, VP Marketing and Communication, Fabriclore is happy that they have created a novel niche in fabric business. How did this happen? Arya says: “I never had an agenda to start a business in fabrics or textiles as I was inexperienced …My partners and I realised the demand for fabrics in the market was not being fulfilled. Hence, after plunging into the segment deeper, we were surprised to be acquainted with the variety of fabrics available! This is how we hatched the idea of starting a business in the same field.”
Look at these cases: AKS Clothings, a start-up Indian ethnic brand was founded by Ms. Nidhi Yadav, a young, energetic inspirational designer & entrepreneur. Says Ms Nidhi: “The stories behind clothing labels have always aroused my attention. So, while studying fashion Lokesh Harjani, Founder & CEO – OnSpot Solutions 19 TVC | MAY 2022
has always been stirred by technology – the pace at which it is evolving & its potential to simplify complex problems. With a powerful vision of digitising every step of a brand’s supply chain, and hindering the scale of product counterfeiting in the Indian market, he founded OnSpot Solutions in 2020. He started off his entrepreneurial career at the age of 19; while studying International Finance & Marketing at the University of Miami. OnSpotSolutions bears the markings of his drive and determination to preserve the value of a brand while simultaneously protecting the interests of the end consumer. His next endeavour took him for brand security & protection for companies such as Walmart, GAP, Target Etc. Continuing in the brand identification segment, Lokesh formed Pixel, a new age packaging development agency. Next, he has worked in the manufacturing space at Premco Global Limited. He has an aptitude for identifying promising start-ups and scaling them up, he has led marketing teams at the national and international level, and he has also been an important figure in financial decisions. He has worked in the manufacturing, Internet and Technology spaces in India and Internationally.
stands out for its bursts of vivacious colours, glamour, and easy-to-wear garments. Her design philosophy lies in creating elaborate silhouettes brewed with subtle prints and surprising embellishments. A designer whose management roots evolved into a serious love for fashion, Anushree Reddy has now evolved into a name to reckon with. With perseverance and an indomitable spirit to learn the art of design, she acquired the skill while being on the job. From one milestone to the next, this London School of Economics alumnus has aced her design game in the four years and counting. Having envisaged a label that creates breathtaking, feminine Indian wear with a hint of the nawabi royalty, Anushree Reddy has miles to go before she sleeps. What about funding startups? Early-stage companies have had a good times since the phenomenon was new bringing in success stories. Later-stage companies have come under some pressure due to macro-economic factors to cut down on expenditure. Funding for Indian startups was the lowest in April, says industry sources. Workforce for startups is a more complex and challenging issue with workforce choice changing during the pandemic. New funding ideas have cropped up; Oppo Research Institute has joined forces with Microsoft for startups to start an innovation accelerator. This is in the initial stage of progress.
9Unicorns is an accelerator programme backed by successful founders & leading company experience officers (CXOs) for early stage startups! Calling themselves Startup Builders, 9Unicorns was launched in the late 2020 with a total size of US$50 million recently announced the fifth closure of its maiden fund at US$100 million. The fund has made investments in over 110 deals in 2021 and plans to pour in US$500,000 to US$1 million in idea stage startups and US$2 million in highgrowth stage Series-C and above startups in 2022-23. The 9Unicorns USP lies in the fact that it allows startups it invests in to dig into its vast business communities in cities beyond the meros enabling them to go pan-India. It directly allows getting early customers, distribuHyderabad-based designer Anushree Reddy began her tion partnerships, cross-portfolio synergies for startups designing career in 2010. A self-taught designer and leveraging its pre-existing network of over 5,000 invesmanagement graduate Anushree made her debut at tors, founders and executives in its ecosystem. Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2013. Her label 20 TVC | MAY 2022
Another boon for the startups is the launch of FFS (Fund of Funds for Startups) in 2016. For contribution to various alternative investment funds (AIFs) registered with SEBI, the capital market regulator. By this, the Government will allow venture capital (VC) and private equity (PE) funds take a higher share of profits, earn more fees and faster drawdown of the money they receive from the State’s FFS. The FFS is run by the State-controlled Small Industries Development Bank of India(SIDBI), which has invested over Rs. 9,400 crore in 86 AIFs (the regulatory term for PE and VC funds). Such funds have to invest at least double the FFS investment in startups. SIDBI-managed FFS has been one of the most important domestic institutional investors in Indian VC funds.
There is no dearth of new ideas for startups. For instance, the Federal Soft Systems (FSS), a Digital Transformation & IT Services Company helping corporates to enhance their digital presence and experience, has launched an online e-commerce platform ROLLOVERSTOCK to revolutionise the large-scale sale and purchase of various leftover and surplus products at huge discounts. This connects sellers, manufacturers, retailers and consumers to sell and purchase bulk quantities of such leftover and surplus stock of a wide range of products at a reasonable cost. Many vendors of products like masks and T-shirts, which are produced on a large-scale, can get buyers looking to order a huge volume but have to travel longer distances from smaller cities to wholesale markets in larger cities. Within a week, the company has on-board 2,000 vendors from the southern States, says sources and add that FSS is 21 TVC | MAY 2022
yet to tap the northern States. There are many side benefits to mushrooming of startups. Spurring economy, they do their mite to job creations. Another trickling effect is the demand for flexible office space, the operators who have recorded higher demand after the dawn of this new phenomenon from well-funded startups and unicorns. According to sources, today the biggest occupiers of managed offices are unicorns and startups. Startups are driven by entrepreneurship passion and the positive sentiment in the Indian startup ecosystems. The country is likely to remain the world’s fastest growing major economy over the next few years. Indian startups fame is spreading far and wide. References to startups abroad from higher-ups are proliferating. “With a growth forecast of almost 8% in FY 2023, India is likely to remain the world’s fastest growing major economy over the next few years, driven by the continued expansion of its technology and startup ecosystems,” Sitharaman told a group of business leaders and co-investors in San Francisco. Among the businesses and funds that attended the event were Blackstone, Brevet Capital, Citi, Nova Credit, Western Digital, Palo Alto Networks, The Regents of the University of California, Lightspeed House Ventures, Insight Partners, Morgan Stanley, Powerhouse Ventures, Blume Ventures, Bow Capital and Nasdaq. proliferating
We Cover everything in TEXTILEs!
Cover Story
STARTUPS – POWERING NATIONAL GROWTH By Mohit Raina
India has one of the youngest populations in an ageing world; Start-up promoters bud from the 62% of our population who are in the age group of 15-59 years, and we have a generation of young, energetic, aspirational, goal focused and risk-taking human resource.
A
Start-up is a vehicle carrying an idea, to solve a problem, manoeuvred by an engaged and determined promoter or promoters driven by a purpose to bring about significant change to the status quo. These vehicles and the people driving them majorly influence our everyday lives today. Be it getting home by a cab after a tiring day at work or ordering food online from a cloud kitchen or stocking up your groceries or upgrading your wardrobe; each of these activities were very cumbersome about fifteen years back. Today, you can have all of it at the click of a few buttons. From Tech- Start-ups to Manufacturing Start-ups – each is reshaping our civilization and helping realise our dreams as a nation. India with its over 61,000 start-ups is the third largest start-up
22 TVC | MAY 2022
eco-system in the world. It is estimated that about 2-3 tech start-ups are born every single day. Each of these start-ups are trying to solve a problem. In India, we define a start-up as a company, which engages in developing, producing or distributing new products, processes or services. This company should be turning around a revenue of less than INR 25 Cr and incorporated for three years or less. The Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade (DPIIT) recognised around fourteen thousand start-ups in the fiscal 2022. Since the launch of the Start-up program in India in 2016 by the honourable Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi, the number of recognised start-ups has increased to 14000 in 2022 from about 733 in 2016. Around 83 start-ups have achieved unicorn status in the past years. As on January 2022, these start-ups raised INR 26250 crore ($ 3.5 billion) in 130 deals. These numbers not only give hope but they also strongly portray the determination and aspirations of 1.3 billion Indians.
The urgent need for indigenization of the speciality fibre-based industry will push a number of fresh graduates to take their formulations from their research labs to commercialization and help cater domains of national interest.
India has one of the youngest populations in an aging world. Start-up promoters bud from the 62% of our population who are in the age group of 15-59 years. We have a generation of young, energetic, aspirational, goal focused and risk-taking human resource. This human resource is not afraid of failure and is determined to develop beyond the present circumstances. Apart from having a solution to an existing problem, the most important virtue required for the growth of a start-up is the determination and persistence of its promoters. In the endeavour of theirs, the Government of India is providing exceptional support via its various departments and schemes to hand hold the entrepreneurs. The Start-up India Campaign provides entrepreneurs The textile sector in India is also riding the start-up with the Seed Fund Scheme to encourage professionwave. With a major focus on manufacturing are ser- als to take the leap and create their own organisations. vices, entrepreneurs are providing solutions in do- In addition to the Start-up India campaign, the Minismains which were known as sunrise domains until try of Textiles, Government of India with its schemes 2010. Domains such as additive manufacturing, digital such as National Technical Textile Mission, Incubation manufacturing, mass-customised garmenting, tech- Centres in Apparel Manufacturing, Handloom Cluster nical textiles, green energy, recycling, environment Schemes, Handicraft Cluster Schemes are prompting conservation, disaster management, quality-based entrepreneurs to come forward to help develop the sourcing and many others are seeing a surge in start- textile sector and provide solutions to allied sectors. ups, which are challenging the status quo. As is evi- Organisations such as the Technology Development dent from the domains, promoters with a textile back- Board, Department of Science and Technology, Govground are engaging with sectors beyond their own ernment of India also provides significant support for to create value with fibre and textile-based solutions. commercialising new technologies. Apart from these This not only requires the comprehension of textile offerings, a number of incubation centres, across the processing but also thorough understanding of the do- country have been formed, to handhold and help nurmain of application. Today, sectors ranging from rail, ture young start-ups. road and infrastructure to mobility, medicine, space With the opportunity that a country with 1.3 billion and industry are achieving their sustainability quo- individuals provides; every young entrepreneur, every tient by the use of fibres and textiles. The acceptance young start-up should reflect on the words of Chairman of fibre and textile-based solutions in these sectors, Emeritus of Tata Sons and Chairman of Tata Trusts Mr. are seeing an exponential surge. Applications such as Ratan Tata from an interview with Ms. Shradha Sharma PPE kits, soil stabilization products, crop-protection focusing on entrepreneurship, “To put it all together, kits, non-corrosive reinforcements for infrastructure we must ask ourselves, can we make a difference? Can and fibre reinforced polymers provide solutions to fa- we be innovative and creative? And not just after the cilitate the growth of our nation and protect the inter- money value of what we’ve done, but the contribution ests of the nation. They also help the nation contribute it has made to our humanity, our human population towards the Global Sustainable Development Goals. in India. So, we should be humble, at the same time, While the current focus is on creating near net shaped attentive to the needs, looking for opportunities.” textile-based structures, the country is also now looking at avenues of entering domains of speciality fibre manufacturing from the self-reliant India perspective. 23 TVC | MAY 2022
Cover story
STARTUPS: PROSPECTS IN FASHION FIELD By Huda Kazi
E
very day, trendy startups are being continuously launched around the world. Starting a new trend enterprise comes with its very own challenges. Popular social media systems such as Instagram and TikTok have been effective advertising equipment for small groups to promote merchandise and share new thoughts with the world. In this article, we will provide an explanation for how trend startups are the future as a newer substitute than massive trend corporations. We additionally will point out a couple of trend startups that are shaping the future.
Start-ups and their meaning
Social Media: A Ladder for Start-Ups TikTok is a special social media platform on hand in over 150 nations with over a billion users, according to Wallaroo.
As cited in the Investopedia, a startup is a younger organisation started by one or greater entrepreneurs to enhance a special product or service, then delivered to the market. One of the first challenges for startups is to show to investors that they have viable products in the basket. Startups convey innovation and new ideas to the market. Other challenges encompass funding, and the threat of failing.
With new technology, the future of the trend enterprise is turning into the greater digital arena. Fashion startups can leverage the digital world to open up new doorways and possibilities for their business. Today, influencers have a large effect on what the new developments are, particularly among Generation Z. The most up-to-date trend and apparel traits stem from TikTok, making the app an exceptional advertising and marketing device for many small trend businesses.
Startups additionally play a large function in the financial boom of the economy, as they create jobs, which means greater employment leading to an accelerated economy.
One viral video can make a commercial enterprise turn out to be profitable overnight. In this modern era, social media is behind many profitable businesses. Designer Lirika Matoshi received prominence thanks to
24 TVC | MAY 2022
the net and influencers. The “Strawberry Dress” won reputation in the summer time of 2020, and took over everyone’s “for you” web page on TikTok. It was once the best-selling item from Matoshi’s series alongside with the “Strawberry Mask” according to Vogue.
a huge range of apparels and add-ons to pick out from, Rent the Runway opens new doorways for its clients to find out new manufacturers and patterns whilst staying on a budget. Another on-line startup that is famous among social media influencers is Shoptiques, a massive online save the place you can discover special garb from all round the world that consists of New York, Paris, London, Sydney, and more.
Fashion subscription offerings are additionally a massive hit among millennials and Generation Z, thanks to social media. Subscription offerings such as FabFitFun, BirchBox, and Stitch Fix have a tremendous following and alternate the trend enterprise with accessibility and affordability. With these habitual trend subscripFashion Start-Ups & Public Response tion boxes, your cloth wardrobe can constantly replace Fashion startups are additionally altering the way hu- with the modern day launches and fashionable essenmans live their lives. Rent the Runway, a New York- tials. based company, has been altering the way humans’ gown for years. The business enterprise gives a constant price to lease unique garb for a fraction of the retail cost. For extraordinary activities and events, the organisation lets its clients swap out portions of apparel and add-ons whenever they want. The garb Condo organisation blossomed via social media, turning to fame through their loyal clients who swear by means of Rent the Runway. With having such
The motive of Start-Ups being the fate of FashFashion subscription offerings are ion line
additionally a massive hit among millennials and Generation Z, thanks to social media. Subscription offerings such as FabFitFun, BirchBox, and Stitch Fix have a tremendous following and alternate the trend enterprise with accessibility and affordability. With these habitual trend subscription boxes, your cloth wardrobe can constantly replace with the modern day launches and fashionable essentials 25 TVC | MAY 2022
Small corporations imply business. With new progressive thoughts and designs, they vary from common retail stores, and the way that humans have interaction and find out incredible new trend merchandise stemming from small companies. Therefore, make certain to save small, and test out the most modern trend companies. You will by no means recognise what they have in store. Your buy has a large effect on a small business, and when you make that purchase, be aware that you are funding their livelihood and dreams.
For excellent yarn quality.
Texparts drafting systems and spindles Saurer’s Texparts product line offers high quality components for the textile industry including drafting systems and spindles, spinning rings and travellers. The bearing portfolio offers products for ring-spinning and rotor-spinning area as well as winding and twisting. saurer.com 26 TVC | MAY 2022
Interview -Capximize
CAPXIMIZE AIMS TO HELP ENHANCE CAPACITY UTILISATION TVC Editorial Team
Capximize is an online revolutionary global platform created to make Indian manufacturing capacities virtual for the world using proprietary algorithm to discover and recommend matching capacity requirements. The Concept Creator & Founder, Mr. Avinash Bapat, replies to some of the key questions and clarifications regarding this new concept. Excerpts:
sector to the global markets. The platform has further divided the textile sector in multiple subsectors. hat inspired you to start this compaA detailed curated information is collected regarding ny and why you have chosen textile processes, machineries, capabilities, compliances, etc industry as one of the sectors? depicting the available spare capacity by the Indian Taking the initiative of our honorable Prime Minister textile manufacturers to be utilised by domestic/interMr. Narendra Modi of “Make in India” the concept of national companies. Additional business opportunities Capximize India Ltd was formed. According to the Gov- to the sector resulting in higher capacity utilisation ernment statistics at present, India utilises barely 60% leading to higher return on capital employed. of its installed manufacturing capacities whereas even How textile industry is different from other indeveloping countries like Brazil and Vietnam utilize dustries in terms of information technology? 83% - 84% of their installed capacities. A global platform offering detailed information on available surplus Digital India has become the reality and textile sector manufacturing capacities in India is the genesis of cre- has been keeping themselves updated in the information technology field. Our experience so far has shown ating this platform. that hundreds of textile companies have been utilising The sectors we have selected are the ones which have the platform without any difficulty. substantial growth opportunity and India offers large available manufacturing options for the global market. Today information technology play vital role in the field of textile manufacturing industry, Textile sector leads the pack.
W
would you share your opinion about it? Please tell us about the concept of your company and how it is beneficial for textile manu- Global visibility to every member of the textile industry is possible only due to our secured cloud-based platfacturing industry? The concept is to offer visibility to the Indian textile 27 TVC | MAY 2022
form. Our proprietary algorithm brings about the right
partnership for use of available spare capacities in tex- Capximize India selectively offers free registration to tile sectors. the members of some of the sectoral manufacturing Could you please elaborate on working of your associations.
company? How do you feel for the same?
What challenges have you faced while start Capximize india is a platform wherein a capximizer up stage and growing a business pertaining to means the company having spare/surplus manufactur- textile manufacturing industry? ing capacity upload the details. The data is kept secured and confidential. Capximizee ie. Indian/ International company which is looking for Pan-India manufacturing options, searches on the platform as per their parameters to find matching partnership. The Capximizee beat Indian or International company saves equity capital and time for setting up new manufacturing capacities but instead can start “plug and play” ready facilities and expand the business.
What are the key features of your company? Key features are: Knowledge - We have spent two years in learning the new nuance of understanding manufacturing capacities. The design of the information architecture is done by professionals from each sectors /sub sectors who have spent maximum time in production facilities on shopfloor to visibility. Visibility - As Capximize India is a global platform it offers visibility of spare capacities of Indian corporates to the domestic and international companies (Capximizers); similarly, it also offers Pan-India manufacturing options to India / International companies (Capximizees)
The concept is different from the commonly understood B2B platforms. As Capximize India would like to offer available spare manufacturing capacity in textile sector to the global players it needs extensive explanation. We need to explain we are in the space of digitizing and making surplus - spare manufacturing capacities in textile industry virtual for the global use. As always new concept takes longer to be appreciated.
Cloud technology will be technology of the future, could you please share your opinion about it? The Capximize India platform has already consider the futuristic benefits of cloud-based technology and hence it’s a cloud-based platform from the beginning. All the security features are incorporated, and the technology makes the platform available 24x7 and for 365 days of the year.
How do you see the textile manufacturing business prospect in india?
Indian government has come up with several export promotion policies for the textiles sector. It has also allowed 100% FDI in the sector under the automatic route. The Rs. 10,683 crore (US$ 1.44 billion) PLI Technology - The cloud-based technology platform has scheme is expected to be a major booster for the texits own proprietary algorithm which matches the avail- tile manufacturers. We are extremely bullish on the ability of capacity with the exact need of the capacities Indian textile sector and its ability to grow it oversee in the international and domestic market. This sector in a secured environment. also generates substantial employment opportunities Also, the UI / UX (Information architecture) is made which is the need of the hour today for the Indian extremely user friendly by dividing the sectors into economy. sub-sectors into processes or components which parameterised making it very simple for the user to com- What is the plan of your company to expedite plete the information (It takes barely 20-30 mins to up- the business in India? load or search information) A global technology platform with knowledge as a Competition - We are not a product directory but de- driver and curated user-friendly data about available tailed analytics of surplus manufacturing capacities in spare manufacturing capacity in the Indian textile secIndia for global use. Also our annual subscription is very tor showcased to the world offering them a Pan-India attractive to say the least for the entire data manage- solution with Capex made into Opex will offer speedy ment and search for additional business for its mem- business growth for the sector. bers. The effective cost per month is less than Rs.1000. 28 TVC | MAY 2022
VISION To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery.
QUALITY POLICY KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology.
WHY KEN... Diverse product knowledge
Diverse manufacturing capability
Product development & Sampling are undertaken commercially
Ability to deliver & commitment to excellence
Organizational strength & backup to execute large institutional orders
Understanding of Customer needs & ability to service institutional customers to apparels
Technically qualified & competent team to service the customer needs
Fabric Design & Development capability Organization with 800 Members Team
CORPORATE OFFICE +91 230 243 8538 29 TVC | MAY 2022
9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA.
office@kenindia.in
Interview: Radhey Krishna Cotweaving
SUSTAINABILITY BEGINS FROM SCRATCH : SANJAY GUPTA
TVC Editorial Team Sanjay Gupta And Saurabh Gupta
Radhey Krishna Cotweaving, established in Kishangarh, Rajasthan in 2019, follows sustainability from the initial use till the final use. Keeping this motto, the firm is not only concerned with sustainability of environment but also takes care of its employees working in the firm. The firm has taken an initiative to continue sustainability and spreading awareness for the betterment, said Mr. Sanjay Gupta, Director of Radhey Krishna Cotweaving, in an exclusive interview withTextile Value Chain. Excerpts:
S
teps taken towards Sustainability
We are right now on 100% renewable energy that makes us a zero Carbon Footprint company and as we are based in the Kishangarh High Tech Textile park it has its own wind energy plant and our factory is equipped with solar plant for power generation, That makes us totally on renewable energy with 80% from solar energy and the balance 20% from our wind energy.
jet & Sulzer looms. The qualities which we are dealing into starts from 130GSM till 444GSM, with width from 76CM to 355CM.
We are majorly selling most of our fabrics for making canvas bags which are coming out now in new trends; we are specialised in canvas fabric. We are also making canvas painting pads fabric, another major segment. For these products, we use recycled yarn. We are keen to export our products, but right now we are unable to export since we are currently into greige fabrics which are the raw fabrics and not much in demand. Products We are currently selling in the domestic market, but Right now, we are only into greige cotton and cotton our 99.99% clients are exporters only who are exportblended fabrics. For cotton & blends we are dealing ing bags, cushion covers, bedsheets, garments, home from 6 counts till 30 counts. We are equipped with Air- textiles. Daks India Pvt. Ltd. is one of our clients who 30 TVC | MAY 2022
is dealing with great brands like Louie Vuitton, Fendi, Ralph Lauren, etc they make dust bags form our fabric we supply to them.
age. They have their own sewer systems plus whatever cotton waste we generate while processing our fabric, we sell it to a recycler. We have a track record of that too. So, you can say from when the yarns are sent to Invention of a new fabric & expansion us, till the fabric is fully used, whatever the wastage, be We are introducing a new range of RPet fabric which it fluffs or anything like side threads everything we sell is a 100% recycled fabric made of plastic bottles that it to recycler. The recycler gets it recycled and makes is certified by GRS for which we also provide100% traceability of everything. We will be introducing OBP fabrics in 6 months, that is Ocean Bond Plastic fabric, which will be made from the plastic waste sourced from the ocean i.e dumped in the ocean and returned back to the land. We are certified by Control Union for GOTS & GRS, which enables a complete traceability. Certification anyone can get but providing a traceability from scratch till the finish product is a task and we are working on it and we want people to get aware about it, so that they know the value of such products. Our expansion depends on how the market accepts us because sustainability comes at a cost and if the market is ready to bear that cost then we can expand to a great extent.
yarns out of it, nothing is wasted. The packing material, when it comes to yarns whether its PP, or paper How did Covid-19 impact the business of your com- tubes, or polythene or anything, we make sure everything gets reused somehow. We have a client base for pany? that as well, we are selling each and every paper waste We got a very positive response during and after Covid of that. Every pp fabric is sold and nothing is a waste. because people became more aware about the cli- We are not dumping anything and we are entirely remate and got knowledge about sustainability, and this using everything. We are following sustainability from helped us a lot. After Covid we could double our pro- the scratch; we have 100% eco friendly electricity, then duction. we are sourcing yarns which are recycled, and we are Promotion about the firm and its motives making fabrics out of the recycled energy, so that is We are talking to our clients and other people we sustainable. Whatever is dumped like water waste and are in touch with to spread the awareness. We have all, in the textile park they have a plant which recycles a website and we are in all channels of social media it, there is no water waste also. right now. We are promoting through our own corpo- We take care of the labourers. Since we all know larate videos and short clips on YouTube as well. We are bours cant wear mask’s which is provided to them, trying our level best to promote our concepts. which breathing their intake includes fine particles of How do you follow the principles of sustainability as cotton also, ayurveda has a simple remedy jaggery dissolves it. So, in morning we ensure they consume it, it is on a niche stage? while they enter for shift and also do the same when When it comes to our company, as we are located in a they end their work. Its an ayurvedic cure which helps textile park, they have their own recycle plant for wast- them, so that they are not prone to any kind of dis31 TVC | MAY 2022
eases. In personal life as well, whatever garments we have been using, we are recycling them as well. We have vendors for them who are taking them, shredding them and then reusing the fabric. Just not us, we have taken an initiative to spread this concept too. Every brand now is working towards sustainability. I think in a year or so you’ll be seeing more sustainable fabrics in the market. There are a few garment stores which say that they are 100% organic but by threads of polyester, you can’t
claim it 100% organic. Since they are using threads and buttons which are not sustainable, 100% sustainability is not possible for garments. When I am claiming that it is 100% recycled fabric, it maybe 80% cotton and 20% RPet or like that. So this is the difference, I am making people aware about. Take for instance, the paper tubes also. Why not we make our buyers aware that this paper tube is recyclable. So please collect them and sell them to some vendor who recycles it. We are making our supply chain also aware about the things we are doing, but to get it documented is a task. So this is the whole story when it comes to the industry, and when it comes to personal life As being a startup how was your journey? We started in 2019, It was a very interesting journey, frankly speaking; first we saw two waves of Covid, then now we are seeing the shooting up of cotton prices and sustaining in three years you know, the graph was like ups and downs, so it was never stagnant. Never32 TVC | MAY 2022
theless, we are trying our best to work it out. As the prices of raw fabrics are increasing, Recycling will definitely be the next future. But recycling is also very expensive. Sustainability also comes with a cost, because it takes efforts, it takes labour, it takes transportation to get the raw materials; then to get it recycled, so cost benefits are also there but additional costs are also there. So, we have to see how people accept all this and move towards sustainability. I hope Covid has taught us a lot about sustainability. Now India has a bright future, looking at the problems that China has been facing, and Sri Lankan issues at the moment. But I think we really have a good future in textiles.
We Cover A to Z in TEXTILEs!
Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester 20 Denier to 300 Denier in S & Z twists for High end Seamless Knitting and Medical Bandages
Single And Double Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester Single Covered Yarns
20 Denier to 250 Denier
Double Covered Yarns
350 Denier to 1400 Denier
Corporate Office : SF-34, Vasant Square, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi – 110070, India 33 TVC | MAY 2022 Mobile : +91 98100 09264, 96506 54343 Email : mani@bishnutexport.com
Interview
Vintage Meadows by Raysil TVC Editorial Team
Raysil lounge at FABTEX 2022
rate them. Raysil® is the soul of every garment that falls and drapes well, fits perfectly, has the best sheen and smoothness is skin-friendly with the eloquence of color and lustre. It is a complete range of 100% natural and biodegradable viscose filament yarns that are made from the most premium wood pulp. The name encapsulates the richness the yarn exudes, making it the most sought after yarn by the fashion fraternity, globally.
Grasim Industries Limited (VFY – The Fashion Yarn Business) participated at the FABTEX 2022, after a hiatus of 2 years. This is one of the most reputed shows for Indian fabrics, where most fabric manufacturers and traders showcase their unique collection for the year. The event, like yester years, was held at the World Trade Centre in Mumbai between the 28th and 30th of April 2022.
Luxury is personified with ‘Raysil’. This premium yarn is also extremely versatile and used in the making of apparels – woven and knitted, home furnishing, embroidery embellishments and accessories mainly for occasion wear, festive wear and styled, trendy wear. This is what was highlighted through the stall décor, the collection and explained during the interaction with the team.
The fashion yarn business of Grasim Industries Ltd showcased their collection of Vintage Meadows by Raysil ® - the fashion yarn brand of the business. Raysil showcased the unique fabrics and the yarns that cu-
The Vintage Meadows collection by Raysil® was a narration of natural, light weight, evergreen, casual luxury wear for today’s new age royalty. Along with the collection, Raysil® also exhibited the brand’s collaboration with the textile fraternity. There were three (3) companies who displayed their unique fabric collection at the Raysil® Lounge. They had a beautiful and diverse collection apt for the season’s ahead and showcased versatile possibilities with the Raysil® yarns. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN took this opportunity to speak to each of the Raysil® partners at the Raysil® lounge during the event and had a sneak peak at the entire collection – all at one place. Check out their views about Raysil® and the emerging trends in the textile industry.
34 TVC | MAY 2022
Naresh Bothra of Ujjawal Textiles:
Pankaj Thakkar of Satyam Fabric:
“We have been connected with Raysil for a very long time. It’s more than 7 years now and we are continuing our association. We are in manufacturing and trading mainly in the Indian market. We are mainly dealing with viscose, cotton and linen and not polyester. And mostly, we provide fabrics for women. At present, the market is a bit dull and slow. We keep our rates under check and price the goods at low cost because this market is always price driven and considers competitive pricing as the first factor. The second factor is mandi or demand from the market and both the factors work complimentary to each other. “We have been connected with Raysil® for more than 45 years and I have been associated with it since 27 yrs. Raysil® is a very good brand, and in the last 10 years much innovation has happened in quality and quantity. I am dealing with all their products of viscose. I have dual businesses - I am a yarn dealer and I am in fabric trading as well, exclusively viscose. Satyam is the brand for my fabrics and the yarn brand is Shivam Rayon. My market is in India, mainly across Punjab, Delhi, Mumbai, and Jaipur. Viscose Filament Yarns (VFY) is a premium segment, and the future is very bright. In any showroom we can find VFY in the form of garments. It is replacing fibres like bamboo and today you will find The future is good since the textile industry is doing premium VFY women’s dress materials and suits, sawell in India. Regarding the situation for entrepre- rees, and garments. neurs, the situation is very crucial and today poses a lot The trend in the textile industry is impacted by busiof challenges. Unless we work hard, we can face multiness environment. With frequent fuel hikes and othple challenges. Also, though talent today is important, it all depends on the hard work put into the business” er factors, labour, and inputs, prices of raw materials and goods have increased in the textile industry within the last three months. VFY share is going up due to imports, and with quality and expansion, it is expected to go up further. Startups at the yarn level is not possible at all. In fabrics much innovation has happened. Startups are opening most on the garmenting and at the fashion stage. This is a growing segment of the industry as our Honorable Prime Minister Modi ji is encouraging startups and the demand is high.” 35 TVC | MAY 2022
Darshan Nawab of Vrundavan Textiles: Vrindavan Textiles changed the company name from Jyoti Fabrics and reformed company values, vision and mission since more than 3-4 years, as the new generation entered the business. We are associated with Raysil from quite a long time. It is good be with the brand and sell the plant based sustainable fabrics. In 5-10 years, Viscose trend will be much popular.
In India the fashion trends are based on environment and festivals. During the period of August to Diwali season different patterns emerge that are richer, more attractive, because as you know we are going to give fabric they will wear in Diwali and post-Diwali. When the winter starts different fabrics are used. Right now, we are dealing with women’s wear. Now with around more than 60-70% women working currently in urban cities, they want comfortable wear. Else, they would not like to work comfortably and will get irritated by fabrics that they wear. So, our motive is making trendy fabrics; these should be cost effective, mainly comfortable. Whatever fabrics I make I take a piece to my wife, who is a fashion designer. She uses and suggests what things to change or make according to latest trend and style for better acceptability. We are providing fabrics to Italy and other foreign countries also. Our fabrics are competing with fabric from China. When anyone joins the industry, we feel both delighted and apprehensive. This is because when we see potential in the industry, it is not yet fulfilled. We have to grow like a family in order to achieve something. That is what we did and feel others should do the same too.
Brand and innovation is the key for success as against our earlier focus on only manufacturing goods. The fabrics at that time weighed 3-4 kg per 100 meters. Now we manufacture from 3 kg to above 10 kgs. We have also diversified into many things and have innovated many fabrics. So basically, our agenda is to visualise and try to anticipate the trend. Only then we will be able to optimise our performance because if the trend changes, then the raw materials, finish product of the yarn will get affected. So, what I can anticipate to changing in the coming months, allows me to plan and optimize my performance as per the emerging trend. Thus, mantra for Vrindavan Textiles is to follow trends closely to achieve success. 36 TVC | MAY 2022
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN had a remarkable opportunity to understand the long association that each of the partners across value chain – be it yarn trader, weaver, fabric trader has with Raysil®. The discussions also highlighted the need for rich and comfortable fabrics and how brand and innovation is the trend of today’s fashion world. Raysil® continues to drive both the aspects. VFY, according to all, is gaining significant momentum as a preferred fabric for Indian women’s wear and is in trend for comfortable and sustainable wear too. Truly, experiencing the Vintage Meadows Collection and interacting with the Raysil® brand associates at the Raysil Lounge of FABTEX 2022 was a great start to the year.
37 TVC | MAY 2022
story OF A STARTUP
Raina Industries: Nothing Succeeds like Innovation! By Mohit Raina
R
aina Industries Pvt. Ltd was started in 2014, under the ‘Make-In-India’ Initiative of the Honourable Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi, with the mission of bringing the latest technologies from Europe and the US and manufacturing them in India. The aim is to indigenise new age technologies to cater to the rural, peri-urban and urban sectors of the country. Raina Industries is very specifically an engineering and a manufacturing start-up the focus lies on two aspects•
Focus on Value Addition into products and application fields ranging from medical, defence, transportation to infrastructure using technical textile
38 TVC | MAY 2022
solutions •
Focus on Sustainability by bringing in application of textiles in all these fields to boost textiles, increase jobs in this sector and at the same time to have the products in these fields, which are more sustainable.
Globally, the most innovative technologies are out of Europe and parts of the US. Technical textile is an application-based industry with high technicality. Thus, keeping in mind, the application of textiles in technical sectors, Raina Industries had decided to focus on end use applications. Raina Industries has started with
the construction and infrastructure sector as a high growth potential was observed here, but the vision of Dr. Raina, Managing Director, is to also extend the application to other industries like medical textiles, transportation, defence and more.
Similar to the eco-system in the domain of civil and construction, Raina Industries is also currently focusing on building teams for domains such as Green Hydro gen, Marine Infrastructure, Smart Cities and Material Upcycling to create products and services with textiles as the key ingredient. In its endeavour to build the nation with latest technologies,
try by reducing the use of cement by up to 80%. This is possible by the use of AR-Glass and Carbon fibre grids, which are incorporated in concrete. The applications include semi-structural and non-structural applications. In order to be able to deliver high quality innovate products, Raina Industries works intensively with IIT Madras in the domains of construction and marine infrastructure. The production capacities of Raina Industries are distributed over six verticals- Façades, street furniture, modular tomorrow or modular toilets, marine infrastructure, composites and interiors. Currently headquartered out of Mumbai, Raina Industries is further expanding in Delhi NCR, Pune and Hyderabad. The company aims at touching a Rs. 500 crore turnover in the next 5 years. The company also spends quality time in innovations, which is a practice they indulge in every day. Similar to the eco-system in the domain of civil and construction, Raina Industries is also currently focusing on building teams for domains such as Green Hydrogen, Marine Infrastructure, Smart Cities and Material Upcycling to create products and services with textiles as the key ingredient.
In its endeavour to build the nation with latest technologies, Raina Industries was conferred upon with the National Award 2021 by the Technology Development Board, Government of India, for the Successful Commercialisation of Indigenous technologies on the NaAs a philosophy of growth, Raina Industries firmly be- tional Technology Day in 2021. lieves in creating innovation eco-systems and workIndia is a land of over a billion dreams and aspiraing in cross-sectoral teams from the civil, mechanical tions, which are seeing a paradigm shift. Every such and mobility sectors to deliver products and services. paradigm shift brings along with it change in the sociIn the current civil and construction sectors Raina Inety and the Indian Industry is no different. There are dustries works very closely with Ultratech Cement Ltd challenges, which need to be addressed, issues to be and Godrej Construction to develop, produce and sell sorted, procedures and perspectives have to be set solutions in the domains of fibre and textile reinforced right, but most importantly, the intent to undergo a concrete (TRC). The use of fibres along with high positive change has to be undeterred. Raina Indusstrength and recyclable concrete gives Raina Industries very strongly believes in this intent and protries the edge to help develop sustainable structures gresses towards building the Nation. reinforced by textiles. Textile reinforced concrete helps reduce the carbon footprint of the construction indus39 TVC | MAY 2022
INNOVATIO N: IT’S IN OUR DNA www.swisstextilemachi nery.ch
Vevey, Switzerland, 1819: François-Louis Cailler invents the now-familiar tablet format for chocolate. His simple idea makes chocolate available and affordable worldwide. Today, one billion Swissmade chocolate bars are produced each year.
40 TVC | MAY 2022
Invented in Switzerland. Where the same innovative spirit drives textile progress today.
OPINION
NEED OF AN ECO-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY Pankaj Poddar, Chairman & Group CEO, Cosmo Speciality Chemicals
With the advancement of technology and newer sustainable ways, the market now offers an array of safer and more sustainable chemicals to work with and the current manufacturing conditions of the textile businesses need to change and become more sustainable.
T
he textile industry is one of the oldest and the second largest industry in the world, employing over 25 million people. For context, consumers spend around US$1.3 trillion on textiles every year, most of it on clothes. Due to this rising demand, the textile chemical industry, which is an integral part of 41 TVC | MAY 2022
the system has seen a rapid growth in the past years and is now being called a new sunrise sector. However, all is not well. The textile industry uses different chemicals in different processes like, dyeing, finishing, scouring, bleaching, softening, washing etc. which are often harmful to the environment. Accord-
ing to reports, nearly five per cent of all landfill space is consumed by textile waste and about 20 per cent of all fresh water pollution is made by textile treatment and dyeing. To give a perspective, the water consumption ranges between 10–645 L/kg product, and for mills with finishing and dyeing processes, the range is 21–645 L/kg product. Depending on the fibre and technology used, the amount of water consumed per kilogram of product could exceed 932 L/kg.
“Sustainability concerns have only been increasing since the 1990s and in 2015, 66% of global consumers were willing to pay more for environmentally sustainable products.” However, with rapid innovation and focus on sustainability the picture is now slowly changing. The introduction of white technology and green chemistry has the potential to change the game and make the industry not only sustainable but also eco friendly. We at Cosmo Speciality Chemicals are committed to this cause and all our products are made using sustainable science with the use of enzymes in textile preparatory processes. The enzymes are applied in various stages of textile processing namely desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, finishing and composting. At present, we have 56 products across these ranges and all of our products are made using sustainable science and are eco-friendly. Another positive change which is driving the shift is the fact that brands and consumers have become aware 42 TVC | MAY 2022
and wants to know where the product is coming from. It is no more a look good industry but a feel good industry as well. Brands have a responsibility: choosing well where they source their materials and where they out-source the production. The consumer, getting information easily on Internet is more and more aware of those issues, which reflects in its purchasing choices. Sustainability concerns have only been increasing since the 1990s and in 2015, 66% of global consumers were willing to pay more for environmentally sustainable products. One of the major players or game-changers in this category is textile chemicals. As per reports, there are around 8,000 synthetic chemicals used by this textile industry to manufacture the raw materials into finished goods. These chemicals are harmful and pose serious health hazards, especially for people working with them without proper protection. Moreover, many of these chemicals often end up in freshwaters. With the advancement of technology and newer sustainable ways, the market now offers an array of safer and more sustainable chemicals to work with. Brands and manufacturers should therefore be concerned about the amount of chemical usage in production, and where a possible transition to sustainable fiber sources and alternative natural dyes and processing methods. Technological fixes aside, reshaping behaviour and practices often requires working with changing the values associated with production and consumption and doing so in a way sensitive to different cultural, geographic, and political contexts. A major role in this will be re-skilling and up-skilling the already on the job workforce. The current manufacturing conditions of the textile businesses need to change and become more sustainable. The employees need to be trained to adapt to the changing environment. It is these men and women with the right set of skills and knowledge that will play a crucial role in the coming days in making green production processes and sustainable investment strategies to bring about a real change.
Government Recognized Star Export House
Maintaining world-class quality standards and delivering innovative products have been the foundation of Shahlon group’s manufacturing philosophy. A system of acute quality control involving multiple tests throughout each stage of operation is adopted, ensuring quality, efficiency and dependability of every product.
Our wide range of yarn offerings include Textured
Carpet
We produce all types of NIM, SIM, HIM textured and crimp yarn, in all lustres - SD, FD as well as BRT, using international standard manufacturing techniques.
We have been exporting various types of yarns such as micro and high bulk to the carpet manufacturing industry, for products ranging from rugs to wall to wall carpets.
Space Dyed Adding further value to dyed yarn, we also manufacture and supply polyester/ viscose space-dyed yarn.
Intermingle
Dyed
Our carpet yarn offerings are further expanded through intermingled yarn.
With a capacity of producing 750 tons per month, & world-class infrastructure, we are well-known to meet the dyeing needs of international and local markets.
Applications Knitting
Weaving
Furnishing
Carpets
Labels
Velvet
Laces
Tapes
3rd Floor, Dawer Chambers, Ring Road, Surat- 395 002. Gujarat, India
43 TVC | MAY 2022 Phone: +91 261 4190200 / 2635541-42 | e-Mail : info@shahlon.com | Web. : www.shahlon.com
OPINION
STRENGTHENING MSMEs TVC Editorial Team
However, the worst pandemic of the last century wreaked havoc on mankind and hit the MSME sector hard. Ailing for aid, the sector is not looking for the traditional one-size-fit-all approach in the business, as it is time to get them tailor made support to rebuild their economic ecosystem. Even the World Trade Organization (WTO) has laid its emphasis on the tech-savvy MSME market, which can add more to the GDP of the world and create a level playing field amid the rising competition. Deploying the operational and financial strategies require due diligence and a decent capital, where these sectors take a setback. Here are four key pointers which should be taken into account to bootstrap the MSME sectors in India:
M
SME has the potential to offer an attractive career which can resonate with the ambitions of the new generation, helping them to thrive in the dynamic business environment, says Mudit Pareek CTO, Saraf Furniture.
1. Automating the Business Process
Technology is the key for the class and those who are backbenchers in this space, stand outside. The statement might be harsh but it’s a truth that the world is moving towards automation and digitalisation. This not only brings operational efficiency, but saves your It is a no-brainer that Micro, Small and Medium Enter- time and capital in the long term, thanks to dedicated prises, abbreviated as MSMEs, are the backbone of the software, hardware and machinery. Indian economy for decades. This sector differentiates Eliminating mundane tasks with automation boosts between the three based on the investment and/or the morale of the employees and strengthens them to revenue but comprises two categories, namely- man- think out of the box, resulting in higher creative and ufacturing and services. productive solutions to the core business. This will also This sector employs more than 11 crore Indians and improve the customer experience and the key personaccounts for the country’s 30 per cent gross domestic nel can allocate more time to solutions. production (GDP). Boosting MSMEs’ financial velocity 2. Getting the Financial Right will be crucial to giving the substantial GDP growth rate Finances are key to every business, particularly which an enormous impetus. require a hefty capital or where the cash flow is lack44 TVC | MAY 2022
lustre. Every small business needs financial support from time to time, either for the working capital or the short-term finances or for the long-term needs. They often resort to techniques like invoice discount to customers which is not a good practice.
The MSMEs should fine-tune their marketing expenses including promotions, advertisements and PR activities which establish their brand identity and increase the long term earnings. Sit with your managers to train, educate and brainstorm them in generating results.
The government should have a strong, healthy and hassle-free mechanism to ease the financial crunch for the economic backbone of the country. Also, the MSMEs should aim to rope in strategic partners or the co-owners to get the financials streamlined. Another solution to the problem is a self-help group where MSMEs can come together to help each other in tough times, but the solutions shall be practical and tactical.
4. Harness the Right Talent Often, MSMEs offer greater flexibility to employees which gives them decent work life balance, but limit their opportunities compared to the larger corporates. Thus, MSMEs should organise their staffing policies to give them better opportunities and defined career paths.
MSME has the potential to offer an attractive career which can resonate with the ambitions of the new Small business lacks the efficient and effective mar- generation, helping them to thrive in the dynamic keting strategies and often leads to cash burn without business environment. The right talent is the key to the tangible results. Strong business operation with lower exponential success of the business and having horses sales is a sign of business failure and it’s only the sales for the courses in the stable would be a prudent way. which result in profits. Rest increases the profitability. 3. Strong marketing Strategies
OPINION
THINGS TO TRY IF YOUR BUSINESS ISN’T GROWING! TVC Editorial Team Let’s see what Emma Lakna, a business analyst and digital marketing specialist says about this. She says she is on a mission to revolutionise the internet advertising industry by making it simple for businesses to promote their products in front of interested potential buyers. Email: emma.lakna@gmail.com
M
ost business owners want to put money into their company in order to help it develop. You may see exponential growth in the early stages of your business; people are learning about your company for the first time, they’re having positive first impressions, and the novelty of your brand is still fresh enough to help it spread.
But what happens when the rate of growth slows down?
This is both thrilling and comforting, since it opens up new income sources while also supporting your company model’s existence.
First, determine whether or not your company’s growth has slowed. Most firms go through activity cycles, which include busy and sluggish periods. They also tend to fluctuate in response to economic situations;
45 TVC | MAY 2022
Fortunately, there are a variety of small business development tactics you may employ to re-energize your company and re-establish its momentum. Is your company trapped?
if the larger economy is experiencing a downturn, it’s only natural that sales will drop or growth will cease.
3. Swap out the people in charge. To promote development and support operations, businesses rely heavily on leadership. If things aren’t going your way, think about switching up the leadership. This might entail hiring new managers and directors, or it could just entail shifting the viewpoints and attitudes of the executives you presently have. In any event, if you want to get your firm back on its feet, you’ll need to adjust. 4. Put an emphasis on innovation. Even a single significant idea might be enough to breathe fresh life into your company and propel it forward. Make innovation a priority for your company; encourage your employees to come up with new ideas on a regular basis, and provide lots of funds to new product and service research and development.
5. Research your competition. Take a peek at your competitors if you’re experiencing slow growth. If you discover that all of your rivals are having simiIf you’ve seen a flattening in sales for more than six lar problems, it’s possible that you’re dealing with months, or if you’re observing stalled momentum in an industry-wide issue. Try to figure out what it is a number of areas, your firm may have reached a plathat a rival is doing differently in this setting if they teau. This isn’t a strict rule because different sectors seem to be succeeding. While copying your comhave varied growth rates and pathways to expansion, petition may not be the best strategy, you can at but it’s still crucial to think about your company’s least learn something from them. growth in the long run. 6. Seek advice from your consumers. Ask your conTechniques to Try sumers what they think about it because they are the lifeblood of your company. Are they satisfied So, what strategies can you employ if your company’s with the services and products provided to them? growth has slowed to a halt? Is there anything else your company might be do1. Define your objectives. Examine your existing obing for them? Also, consider getting a business jectives and expectations and be open to adjust phone number. them. There’s a potential that your apparent stagnation is just the product of unrealistic expectations, backed up by a goal that never made sense for your company to begin with. What is the ideal rate of growth for you? Also, bear in mind that if your company expands too quickly, this might be an issue. Your plateau may no longer appear as frightening if you’ve set stronger goals and expectations.
2. Get a different point of view. Try to acquire some outside input about your company. Depending on your resources and how long you’ve been in company, this might involve speaking with a mentor, hiring a consultant, or just bringing in new blood. Outside observers will be able to provide you a more objective perspective on how your company operates and what it could be missing. 46 TVC | MAY 2022
7. Go to a different market. You might also try to jumpstart your company’s expansion by entering a new market. You may, for example, attempt reaching a new demographic with a new product line or physically expand to a new geographic location.
8. Reevaluate your situation on a regular basis. Take a look at your objectives and how far you’ve come toward achieving them. In the corporate world, things change rapidly, therefore you must be adaptive. These strategies might not be able to get your business out of a rut right away, and some of them might not be right for your brand. However, if you keep innovating and pushing your company ahead, you should be able to regain and renew the momentum that got you here.
USTER Q-BAR 2 ®
Weave it right: spot defects on the loom
Inspecting fabrics after weaving is old school. With USTER ® Q-BAR 2 , smart weavers can pinpoint defects during fabric formation. It’s the right way to reduce material losses and minimize manual checks. When it comes to fabric quality issues, prevention is better than cure. The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are identified immediately. LED s signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can react to prevent long-running or repeating faults. USTER ® Q- BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output.
www.uster.com/qbar 2
47 TVC | MAY 2022
Review Paper : E- Textiles
E-TEXTILES: A REVIEW Ajay Joshi, Tanveer Malik - Faculties Kajol Jain - Student
Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Indore
Abstract Textiles have been at the heart of human technological progress for thousands of years, with textile developments closely tied to key inventions that have shaped societies. The relatively recent invention of electronic textiles is set to push boundaries again and has already opened the potential for garments relevant to defense, sports, medicine, and health monitoring. The literature shows that electronics can be integrated into textiles, where integration is achieved by either attaching the electronics onto the surface of a textile, adding electronics at the textile manufacturing stage, or incorporating electronics at the yarn stage. Methods of integration can have an influence on the textile’s properties such as the drapability of the textile.
Introduction The development of textiles reflects the civilization of humans to a certain extent: A variety of leaves were reconnected by our ancestors to form the early models of textiles; natural materials such as silk and cotton were then woven into real textiles that were warmer and more comfortable; nylon and Kevlar, gradually appeared and greatly enhanced our lives over the last century; textiles are now expected to exhibit addi48 TVC | MAY 2022
tional functionalities besides making people warm and comfortable. It is promising or required to make electronic devices into textiles for a more efficient use of electricity in many fields, such as displays and sensing. The fact that electricity dominates our life and is everywhere means that the development of smart electronic textiles is important and has possible practical applications. ‘Electronic textiles also known as smart garments are fabrics that enable digital components such as a battery and a light (including small computers), and electronics to be embedded in them’. The first examples of the modern electronic wearable technologies with considerable sensing and computational abilities emerged in the form of smart phones, smart watches, and smart eyeglasses. In these devices, the electronic functionalities are built into standard and rigid daily life objects already in use.
Conversion from mechanical energy The piezoelectric effect has mostly been investigated regarding converting mechanical energy into electric energy. Of decisive importance for the piezoelectric effect is the polarization change in the piezoelectric material under a mechanical stress. The change in polarization appears as a variation in the surface charge density. They are simply constructed on piezoelectric materials and positive/negative electrodes. Studies showed that, more commonly, alternating current/voltage outputs are obtained in a cycle consisting of exerting and releasing stress. In 2008, a fibre-shaped piezoelectric Nano generator (PENG) gave a direct output. Thereafter, fibre- and textile-shaped PENGs started to attract increasing attention. The sub classifications are:
Electricity-Generating Textiles
1. Fibre shaped piezoelectric generators
Electronic devices are all powered by electricity. We begin this with textiles that can convert other energy source into electric energy. The most accessible forms of energy from the environment include light as well as thermal and mechanical energy. These can be converted into electric energy through photovoltaic, thermoelectric, and piezoelectric effects.
2. Textile shaped piezoelectric generators
Conversion from light energy The photovoltaic effect generates electricity in a device upon exposure to light. The electrons in the valence band absorb light energy, become excited, and jump to the conduction band to become free. The excited electrons diffuse to reach a junction where they are transported into different materials by a built-in potential to produce electric currents. Solar cells generally demonstrate the above process. Although a variety of solar cells are planar, third-generation solar cells but typically, the third-generation solar cells are first fabricated onto fibre substrates, and the fibre-shaped solar cells are then woven into photovoltaic textiles. The sub classifications are: 1. Fibre shaped solar cells 2. Textile shaped solar cells 49 TVC | MAY 2022
Conversion from thermal energy The thermoelectric effect is generally used to convert thermal energy into electric energy. The most explored thermoelectric devices convert temperature gradients (dT/dx) to electric energy through the See Beck effect, while the less explored pyroelectric effect generates electricity from temperature fluctuations (dT/dt) as result of thermal diffusion. A high temperature gradient or fluctuation is preferred, and thus thermoelectric devices are rarely used in wearable electronics. On the other hand, it would be adventitious if the heat from the human body could be used to generate electricity effectively. The subclassifications are: 1. Thermoelectricity 2. Pyroelectricity
Textiles for Electricity Storage Besides generating electricity, it is also important to store electricity for effective use. Thus, energy-storage textiles are also required for wearable electronics. Lithium-ion batteries and super capacitors represent two main formats for storing electricity as a result of their
wiched between two electrodes. According to energy storage, they are categorized as double layer capacitor and pseudo capacitor. An electrostatic double layer capacitor is typically made from carbon electrodes and Lithium-ion batteries realises charge separation at the interface between A lithium-ion battery consists of a negative electrode, the electrode and electrolyte. A pseudo capacitor is a positive electrode, and an electrolyte. For a typical generally fabricated from metal oxide or conducting working process, lithium ions move from the negative polymer electrodes and uses redox reactions to store electrode to the positive electrode during discharging energy. and in the reverse direction during charging. The electrolyte allows ionic transport between the negative Super capacitors are classified as: and positive electrodes. Both electrodes are composed 1. Fibre shaped super capacitors of active material, conductive additive, and binder. Ac- 2. Textile shaped super capacitors tive materials in the positive electrode typically include lithium salts, such as LiCoO2, LiMn2O4 and LiFePO4. Active materials in the negative electrode are classified into carbonaceous materials, metals/alloys, and oxides/sulfides (e.g.,Li4Ti5O12).The binder is made of thermoplastic polymers, and conductive additives are made of carbonaceous materials such as carbon black, CNTs, and graphene. To prepare an electrode, slurry of active material, binder, and conductive additive is formed first and then cast onto a current collector (usually Cu for the negative electrode and Al for the positive electrode). high energy and high-power densities, respectively. In recent years, both have been incorporated into energy-storage textiles.
Lithium-ion batteries are classified as: 1. Fiber shaped lithium-ion batteries
Multifunctional Electronic Textiles
2. Textile shaped lithium-ion batteries
Electronic textiles with a single function cannot meet the requirements for electronics. Increasing attention has thus been paid to realise the functional integration among the generation, storage, and utilisation of electricity. Integration of Generation, Storage, and Utilisation electricity 1. Generation and storage of electricity 2. Electric storage and utilization
Super capacitors
Integration with Sensing Functionality 1. Strain and pressure sensors
In contrast to batteries with high energy densities, sui. Resistive sensors per capacitors have been widely investigated regarding ii. Capacitive sensors high power densities. Like lithium-ion batteries, super capacitors have structure with the electrolyte sand- 2. Temperature sensors 50 TVC | MAY 2022
3. Chemical sensors
Conclusion
4. Humidity sensors
Electronic textiles are the most exciting innovation in the field of textile engineering. The development of 5. Self-powering sensors smart textiles reaches far beyond imagination; some Challenges stories may seem science fiction. The economic value From a viewpoint of practical application, some criti- and impact of smart textiles is gigantic. The advent of cal challenges remain that need to be addressed. First- smart textiles makes it possible to being the traditionly, it is difficult to fabricate highly efficient fibre- and al textile sector to a level of high-technological industextile-shaped electronic devices on a large scale, as try. Moreover, it appears that this is only possible by their performances greatly decrease, as their lengths intense co-operation between people from various are increased from centimeters to meters or even lon- backgrounds and disciplines such as microelectronics, ger. Secondly, it is challenging to connect a bunch of computer science, material science, polymer science, fibre electrodes after the fibre-shaped electronic de- biotechnology, etc. Also, more research is needed to vices are woven into textiles. Thirdly, is the question of make it more convenient in our practical life. whether to seal the electronic textiles. They become References: less stable and even soon fail without sealing, but they cannot effectively display the advantages of the textile 1. Review on smart textiles, Wei Weng, Peining Chen, Sisi He, Xuemei Sun, Huisheng Peng Angewandte structure after sealing. Chemie International Edition 55(2016)
“Firstly, it is difficult to fabricate highly efficient fibre- and textile-shaped electronic devices on a large scale, as their performances greatly decrease, as their lengths are increased from centimeters to meters or even longer. Secondly, it is challenging to connect a bunch of fibre electrodes after the fibre-shaped electronic devices are woven into textiles. Thirdly, is the question of whether to seal the electronic textiles.”
2. Review on wearable textiles by Joanna Berzowska Textile 3 (1), 58-75, 2005 3. Electronic textiles charge ahead by Robert F Service Science 301 (5635), 909-911, 2003 4. Historical review of smart e textiles, Theodore Hughes-Riley, Tilak Dias, Colin Cork Fibers 6 (2), 34, 2018 5. Electronic textiles as disruptive, Kristin Searle Harvard Educational Review 84 (4), 532-556, 2014 6. Sungmee Park, Sundaresan Jayaraman MRS bulletin 28 (8), 585-591, 2003 7. Wearble electronics and smart textiles, Matteo Stoppa, Alessandro Chiolerio sensors 14 (7), 1195711992, 2014
Fourthly, washing the electronic textiles is problematic as they may stop working after contact with water. 8. Review on Wearable electronics, Mozhdeh Ghahremani Honarvar, Masoud Latifi The Journal of The In summary, although a lot of studies are required to Textile Institute 108 (4), 631-652, 2017 optimise the structures and enhance the properties of these smart electronic textiles, they have been demon- 9. Flexible interconnects for electronic textiles, Talstrated to be promising for a variety of applications. It ha Agcayazi, Kony Chatterjee, Alper Bozkurt, and is proposed that they may bring a technical revolution Tushar K. Ghosh*,2017 to our life soon.
51 TVC | MAY 2022
LEADING ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILE CHEMICAL MANUFACTURER IN INDIA Cosmo Specialty Chemicals is India's leading texxle auxiliary manufacturer, offering a comprehensive range of texxle auxiliaries and chemicals for texxle processing to clients worldwide.
We have launched 56 eco-friendly textile auxiliaries
OUR PRODUCTS
Pre-treatment Auxiliaries 52 TVC | MAY 2022
Dyeing Auxiliaries
Finishing Chemicals
Sustainable Dyeing
Ms. Ayman Satopay
P
eople must be made aware of sustainable dyed fabric and garment in order for it to become widely accepted and as a result, demand and consumption will rise, infers Ayman Satopay.
This article is the outcome of a project submitted by: Ms. Ayman Satopay in the partial fulfilment of the Requirement for the degree of Masters in Science (Textile Science and Apparel Design), Recent Advances in Textile Science and Apparel Design, under the guidance of Mrs. Nikhila Rane, Subject Incharge, Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT Women’s University, Juhu, Mumbai - 400049.
utors to this problem. After severe new rules were imposed a year ago, China shut down most of the enterprises creating synthetic textile dyes. Industries are now exploring towards greener ways to colour textiles as a result of those closures and severe environmental requirements.
Natural colours extracted from biodegradable plant sources may be a feasible alternative to synthetic colourants. Toxic fixing agents, on the other hand, must still be employed with these colourants. Across the board, the textile and apparel industries are looking for new ways to colour. Fabric has been dyed by humans for millennia. The earliest evidence dates from 3500 BC. All colours were manufactured using natural pigments and oils until 1856, when WH Perkins discovered the use of synthetic dyes. Synthetic dyes are now used in 90% of our clothing. We’ll look at contemporary difficulties in textile dyeing and treatment, as well The textile business is the world’s second-most pollut- as innovative technology and sustainable dying teching industry. Synthetic dyes are responsible for a sig- niques, in this post. If you want to learn more about nificant portion of this pollution, with textile dyeing this scene, to check read our article on sustainable operations accounting for almost 20% of global water fashion startups [9]. contamination. The use of non-biodegradable petro- Sustainability and its importance leum-based colourants to dye textiles, the use of toxic agents to fix colourants on textiles, and the release of The ability to remain and flourish in the future without huge amounts of these colourants and fixation agents depleting natural resources is referred to as sustaininto the surrounding ecosystem are the key contrib- ability. The United Nations defined sustainable devel53 TVC | MAY 2022
opment in the Brundtland Report as development that meets present demands without jeopardising future generations’ ability to fulfil their own. It is founded on the premise that resources are finite and should be used carefully and sparingly in order to ensure that future generations will have enough without decreasing current living standards. Environmental conservation and dynamic equilibrium in human and ecological systems must be prioritised by a socially responsible society [2].
presence of vat dyestuffs, nitrates, acetic acid, soaping chemicals, enzymatic substrates, chromium-based compounds, and heavy metals, as well as other dyeing additives. Formaldehyde-based colour fixing auxiliaries, chlorine-based stain removers, hydrocarbon-based softeners, and other non-biodegradable dyeing adjuvants are among the numerous hazardous chemicals utilised in dyeing. AZO dyes account for 6080% of all dyes, several of which are known to be carcinogenic. Chlorobenzenes, which are often used to We will not be able to maintain our Earth’s ecosys- colour polyester, are harmful if inhaled or come into tems or function as we do now unless we adopt more direct contact with the skin. sustainable decisions. We will run out of fossil fuels, a Local people and farmers living near rivers that have substantial number of animal species will become ex- turned different colours have reported health issues tinct, and the atmosphere will be irrevocably affected and are concerned about the safety of the food they if negative processes continue unchecked. Sustainabil- are required to raise in neighbouring fields, as well as ity benefits include clean air and nontoxic atmospheric the fact that all the fish have died and the lifeless river conditions, the increase of trustworthy resources, and has turned to sludge. The dyeing process releases a vathe quality and cleanliness of water [2]. riety of compounds into polluted water and chemicals, As individuals become more environmentally conscious resulting in the death of aquatic life, soil degradation, as a result of the climate crisis, there is a contempo- and pollution of drinking water. The colouring process rary push for sustainability to become a more desirable has a considerable environmental impact, and existing emphasis for businesses. Businesses will most likely be restrictions have been shown to be poorly enforced, expected to have a positive climate impact across the such as in China, as seen by the Jian River disaster. An entire value chain, enhanced influence on the environ- average t-shirt uses 16-20 litres of water during the ment, people, and atmosphere, and valuable contribu- dyeing process, implying that the worldwide textile tions to society in the future. Companies will be held sector discharges 40,000 – 50,000 tonnes of dyes into liable for all aspects of the sector, and any environmen- the water system on a yearly basis. tal damage or harmful emissions from manufacturing processes should be minimised or avoided [4].
The absorption and reflection of sunlight entering the water is a major environmental concern with dyes. Synthetic dyeing and problems associated Light absorption reduces algae’s photosynthetic activity, which has a significant impact on the food chain with it because algae are at the bottom of the food chain, inDefinition of dyes fluencing all organisms above them. One of the main Dyes are substances that are used to impart colour to reasons that aquatic life suffers in regions where cotextiles, paper, leather, and other materials in such a lours are released is a lack of algae, but another is way that the colour is resistant to washing, heat, light, the toxicity of the dyes themselves. One of the most and other conditions that the material is likely to be important challenges today is a lack of clean drinking exposed to. There are different types of dyes based water, and as one of the most polluting industries, texon the source such as natural dyes which includes ex- tiles – particularly textile dyeing – is responsible for tracting dyes from natural resources such as vegetable, many cases of pollution that renders fresh water unfit flowers, minerals etc. The other group of dyes is syn- for use. In the worst-case scenarios, communities are thetic dyes which includes sulphur, vat and direct dyes forced to drink, wash clothes, bathe, and irrigate fields with filthy water, and the poisons they are exposed to which are manmade [1]. can have disastrous consequences. Even when water Pollution treatment is in place, poisonous sludge is produced as Synthetic dyestuffs have negative effects on all kinds of a consequence of the process [1]. life. Textile dyeing water is particularly toxic due to the 54 TVC | MAY 2022
into the fabric. This technology may be used to dye cotton items at low temperatures, as well as wool in a more environmentally friendly manner. Ecofoot-Indigo, a hybrid pigment used in denim dyeing, avoids the use of harmful reduction chemicals, which are commonly used to convert indigo pigment to a water-soluble form. The sulfite and sulphate formed in the dyebath can cause a variety of difficulties when discharged into the wastewater, therefore common reducing agents are considered ecologically unfriendly. Auxiliaries were also developed by Ecofoot to prevent dye hydrolysis during the dyeing process, which usually Figure 1: Dyed water polluting water bodies [2] necessitates severe washing-off techniques to remove Consumption of water and energy the hydrolyzed colour. More than half of the water in Another major issue related with synthetic dyeing is ex- the intermediate and final rinses can be conserved cessive water use. Cotton dyeing is highly water-inten- in the overall preparation and dyeing process when sive, with dyeing and finishing consuming an estimated hybrid pigments and auxiliaries are used. H2COLOR 125 litters of water per kilogram of cotton fibres. It not forms a compound with the reactive dye, largely avoidonly necessitates large amounts of water, but it also ing hydrolysis. There will be less hydrolysed dye to renecessitates a significant amount of energy to heat the move throughout the washing-off process this way. It water and steam required for the desired finish [9]. can save up to: 60% water, 40% time, 60% energy and 30% cost [7]. Demand for change New technologies are paving the way for more cost-effective, resource-efficient, and non-polluting sustainable dyeing options as more customers become aware of the negative impacts of present dyeing techniques. Pre-treatment of cotton, pressurised CO2 dye application, and, more recently, the synthesis of natural colours from microbes are all examples of dyeing technology innovation. Current dyeing technologies can assist minimise water use, replace inefficient processes with more efficient and cost-effective ones, and lessen the environmental impact [8].
Sustainable dyeing innovations
Figure 6: Washing of process time using anionic surfactant by Ecofoot[8]
Hybrid pigments
Powder dyes from textile fibres
Ecofoot is a university spin-off company that specialises in textile chemical solutions and has won numerous awards. It intends to address long-standing environmental and sustainability challenges in the textile dyeing business, such as reactive dyeing of cotton or polyester/cotton blends, and indigo dyeing. Ecofoot has created hybrid pigments that are made up of a dye chemically bonded to a polymer particle that reacts with cellulose fibres at temperatures as low as 25 degrees Celsius. This method does not necessitate the use of salt, which is normally required to push the dye
Recycrom is a sustainable dye line created by Officina+39, an Italian company, using recycled garments, fibre material, and textile scraps. It created a complex eight-step procedure (patent pending) in which all of the fabric fibres are crystallised into an incredibly fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye for fabrics and garments made of cotton, wool, silk, or any other natural fibre. Various processes, such as exhaustion dyeing, dipping, spraying, screen printing, and coating can be used to apply Recycrom to fabrics. Recycrom is applied as a suspension, whereas most dyes are
55 TVC | MAY 2022
administered as a chemical solution, allowing it to be easily filtered from water and thereby lowering environmental effect [2].
Figure 7: Recycling of old fabric to create powder dye[5]
biological process that can save up to ten times the amount of water used. The lysis of the microorganisms is used to fix the dye-producing bacteria directly into the fabric using a carbon source solution, followed by deposition and fixation of the dye onto fabrics with a single heating cycle. This method does not necessitate the use of organic solvents in the dye extraction process, nor does it necessitate the use of fixing and reducing agents containing organic compounds. Denim dyes are being developed by University of California researchers utilising genetically modified E.coli bacteria to create indican, which can subsequently be converted to indigo via an enzymatic process. This innovative method for indigo dye solubilization eliminates the use of harsh chemical reduction agents in favour of an enzyme [2].
Cotton pretreatment Cotton dyeing takes more water than other textiles. To make 1kg of cloth, around 200 litres of water are required. Dow created the ECOFAST Pure pre-treatment method, which is used before the dyeing process to create cationic cotton. Cotton that has been pretreated gains a persistent positive charge, allowing it to have a greater attraction for negatively charged compounds like dyes. This innovative process reduces the amount of dye and water used in cotton dyeing by 50%. There are 90% fewer process chemicals, [such as colours, salt, and other additions. Room temperature dyeing uses 40% less energy [4]. Figure 9: Dye created using micro-organisms [3] Innovative dyes and auxiliaries In contrast to traditional reactive dyes, Huntsman Textile Effects created Avitera, a series of polyreactive dyes for cotton that rapidly link to fibre. Avitera dyes have a tri-functional chemical reactivity that allows for a high reaction and fixation rate with cellulosic fibre, with only a little amount of unfixed dye to be removed. This saves up to 50% on water and electricity, as well as using up to 20% less salt [6].
Figure 8: Dow Ecofast pretreatment method [7] Natural or engineered micro-organisms Colorifix uses bacteria to colour fabrics in a synthetic 56 TVC | MAY 2022
Figure 10. Avitera dyeing innovation [5]
We are SpinDye We are SpinDye dyes recyclable materials like post-consumer water bottles or discarded garments before they are spun into yarn. Colour pigments and recycled polyester are melted together without the need of water, resulting in a 75 per cent reduction in overall water usage. H&M recently announced that the dyeing technology developed by We are SpinDye® was used in their Conscious Exclusive collection [9].
Figure 12: Colorzen technology[4] 2.AirDye Dispersed dyes are applied to a paper carrier in AirDye. AirDye transfers dye from the paper to the textile’s surface using just heat. The dye is coloured at a molecular level during this high-heat procedure. The paper used can be recycled, and the amount of water utilised is reduced by 90%. Also, because the fabrics do not need to be soaked in water and heat dried repeatedly, 85 per cent less energy is needed [2].
Figure 11: We are spindye sustainable innovation [6] Waterless Technologies for Sustainable Dyeing Textile dyeing processes differ depending on the cloth type. Cotton dyeing takes longer and uses more water Figure 13: Airdye innovation[5] and heat because of the negative surface of the fibres. This means that cotton only absorbs around 75% of Pigments from Microbes the colour used. To ensure colour retention, dyed cloth Synthetic dyes are used to colour the majority of the or yarn is washed and heated repeatedly, resulting in clothing we wear today. The problem with them is that massive volumes of effluent [2]. they require expensive raw materials such as crude oil, 1.ColorZen and the chemicals used are harmful to the environment ColorZen pre-treats cotton before spinning it with a and human health. Even while natural dyes are less unique method. This pre-treatment speeds up the hazardous than synthetic dyes, the plants that make up dyeing process, saving 90 per cent of the water, 75 per the dyes still require agricultural land and pesticides. Bacteria are being discovered in labs all over the world cent of the energy, and 90 per cent of the chemicals as a new technique to manufacture colour for our apthat would normally be required for effective cotton parel. Streptomyces coelicolor is a microorganism that dyeing [2]. changes colour in response to the pH of the media in 57 TVC | MAY 2022
which it develops. It is possible to regulate what colour it develops by altering its environment.
1. Ensure universal access to water and sanitation, as well as long-term management.
To dye using bacteria, first autoclave the textile to avoid contamination, then pour a liquid medium containing bacterial nutrients over the cloth in a container. The wet material is then exposed to bacteria and kept for a few days in a climate-controlled chamber. The bacteria is “live dyeing” the cloth, which means that it is dyeing the textile as it grows. The material is cleaned and gently laundered to remove the bacterial medium’s odour before drying. Bacterial dyes utilise less water than traditional dyes and may be used to dye a wide variety of designs in a wide variety of colours [8].
2. Ensure that everyone has access to energy that is affordable, reliable, sustainable, and modern.
Living Colour It is a biodesign initiative headquartered in the Netherlands that is also looking into the possibility of colouring our garments with pigment-producing microorganisms. Living Colour and PUMA collaborated in 2020 to create the world’s first bacterially coloured sportswear collection [6].
3. Build a more resilient infrastructure, encourage inclusive and sustainable industrialization, and encourage innovation. 4. Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns through responsible consumption and production [5]. The Government has approved followings projects under the Research & Development scheme for improving sustainability of textile industries. (Rs. In Lakhs) The Government has approved followings projects under the Research & Development scheme for improving sustainability of textile industries. (Rs. In Lakhs) S. No. Project Name
Name of Sanctioned TRA/ Insti- amount tution
1
MANTRA, Surat
2 Figure 14: Living Colour X Puma [4]
Government initiatives for supporting sustainability in Textile industry SU.RE Project The Indian government is pursuing a number of measures and actions to help the textile industry grow. In the year 2020, the Ministry launched Project SU.RE. Sustainable Resolution. The Indian apparel sector has pledged to create a long-term route for the fashion industry. This project will help the industry meet the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) as well as longterm environmental, social, and corporate governance objectives. Its objectives include the following: 58 TVC | MAY 2022
Development of alternative eco friendly process for reduction clearing of dyed or printed polyester fabric using oxidation technique including advance oxidation. Development of Eco-clothing by greener reduction process of natural indigo dye.
17.78
SITRA, Co- 8.64 imbatore
Govt Incentives to help MSMEs (Ministry of Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises) The government has announced a Rs 3 lakh crore collateral-free automatic lending programme for enterprises, including MSMEs, as well as a Rs 20,000 crore subordinate debt programme for stressed MSMEs and a Rs 50,000 crore equity infusion through a fund of funds. The dye business relies on China for raw materials known as dye intermediates. The government’s lat-
est package of incentives to help firms get through the Covid19 issue emphasizes industry self-sufficiency [5].
Conclusion People must be made aware of sustainable dyed fabric and garment in order for it to become widely accepted. As a result, demand and consumption will rise. Workshops and symposia should be organized by large manufacturing houses, technical institutes, and research houses to propagate the benefits of natural dyes and new innovative dyeing techniques. Innovative dye innovations must undergo extensive research and development in order to increase their quality in terms of low cost and wider application. Although these advancements are both promising and environmentally benign, there are still numerous obstacles to overcome. Because the textile industry is a high-pressure manufacturing industry, there is fierce rivalry for garment pricing. Manufacturers are finding it difficult to create finished garments in a sustainable manner without boosting prices beyond what consumers are prepared to pay due to rising raw-material costs. Working on these shortcomings will surely make a green difference in the textile Industry. References Bibliography 1] Hauser, P. J. (2011). Textile dyeing. InTech. Webliography 2] https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/ faqs/faq-what-is-sustainability 3] https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/70564 4] https://www.prescouter.com/2018/11/sustainable-dyeing-innovations-greener-ways-colortextiles/ 5] https://pib.gov.in/PressReleasePage.aspx?PRID=1811504 6] https://cen.acs.org/business/consumer-products/ new-textile-dyeing-methods-make/96/i29 7] https://www.plugandplaytechcenter.com/resources/how-sustainable-dyeing-changing-textileindustry/ 8] https://textilevaluechain.in/news-insights/sustainable-dyeing-innovations-greener-ways-to-color-textiles/ 9] https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/9161/sustainable-dyeing-technologies-in-thefashion-industry 59 TVC | MAY 2022
60 TVC | MARCH 32 MAY 2022 2022 47 TVC | Jan 2022
Reactive Dyes
RECENT DEVELOPMENTS OF Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes) Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mumbai 400063. India Mail: nnm@shreepushkar.com
R
eactive dyes are extensively used in textile industry because of their wide variety of colour shades, high wet fastness, profiles, the simplicity of application, brilliant colour and minimum energy consumption. It is evident that this technology offers the dyers many options for producing full bright and tertiary shades on cotton, viscose , linen fibres. In light of above, there is still great scope for further research and development to maximize the benefits of reactive dye systems. Since their introduction in the 1950s reactive dyes have shown rapid growth and even today, developments are taking place. The combination of brightness, fastness, and ease of application associated with reactive dyes enables this class of dyes to dye cellulosic fibres.
Properties Of Reactive Dyes
The structure of a reactive dye is shown below:
Classification Of Reactive Dyes
1. Reactive dye is anionic in nature. 2. Reactive dye is a water-soluble dye. 3. They have better wash and light fastness properties. 4. They have better substantivity. 5. They form a strong covalent bond with the cellulosic fibre 6. The alkaline condition is a must required for dyeing. 7. The electrolyte is the must for exhaustion of dyes in the fibre. 8. A wide range of colour can be produced. 9. Comparatively cheaper in price. •
Alkali-Controllable Dyes
Low substantivity reactive dyes, often described as Malakai-controllable dyes; addition exhibit rapid washing-off properties. Their level dyeing properties have to be regulated by slow addition of alkali. This is done in order to encourage migration of dye to the substrate during addition and also to prevent the phenomenon of simultaneous exhaustion and fixation. 61 TVC | MAY 2022
•
Salt-Controllable Dyes
Medium-high substantivity reactivity dyes often described as salt-controllable dyes, have to exhibit slow washing off characteristics. Their level of dyeing characters are to be controlled during the electrolyte addition stage. •
Temperature-Controllable Dyes
•
Chromophoric Groups
Chromophoric groups contribute colour to textile fibres. The proper selection of chromophores for commercial reactive dyes is essential to achieving a given shade area. In practice, mono-azo, diazo, metallized mono-azo, formazan, anthraquinone, triphenodioxazine & phthalocyanine chromophores have been used for the preparation of reactive dyes.
These dyes react with cellulose above the boil in the absence of alkali. They can be applied with group 2 1. Azo Reactive Dyes. dyes, with alkali fixation being done, between 80-100 2. Anthraquinone Reactive Dyes. degree C. These dyes are self-levelling. 3. Phthalocyanine Reactive Dyes.
Constitutional Characteristics Of Reactive 4. Triphenodioxazine Reactive Dyes. Dyes
5. Formazan Reactive Dyes. The four characteristic features of a typical reactive dye molecule are a reactive group, a chromophoric group, • Bridging Groups a bridging group and a solubilizing group. A bridging group is a group that links the reactive system to the chromophore. These groups are necessary • Reactive Groups for synthetic reasons, they also influence the reactivity, Reactive dyes owe their covalent bond forming ability degree of fixation, stability of reactive dyeing & other to the presence of the reactive groups in their struc- dyeing characteristics such as substantivity & migrature. tion, significantly. • Monofunctional Reactive Systems. • Solubilising Groups These systems can react only once with the nucleophil- Solubilising groups provide characteristics such as waic groups in the fibre. ter solubility, substantivity, migration & wash off. The dominant solubilising group in reactive dyes is the sul• Bifunctional Reactive Systems. Bifunctional reactive dyes contain two separate reac- phonic substituent.
tive centres for reaction with suitable groups in the General Factors Affecting the Results of fibre. They also have the potential to combine with Reactive Dyeing more than one group in the fibre chain molecule. • Affinity Of The Dye • Homobifunctional Reactive Dyes. The affinity of a dye for a textile fibre is determined by These dyes consist of two similar reactive groups,e.g. its molecular structure and therefore is not under the of which are shown below: control of the dyer except that he can select dyes from a. Bis-mono-chlorotriazine dyes. among the available dyes, those most suited to his particular process of dyeing. b. Bis-mononicotinotriazine dyes. •
Heterobifunctional Reactive Dyes.
•
Material To Liquor Ratio
These dyes consist of two different types of reactive The liquor ratio has a powerful effect in determining exhaustion, and this is particularly significant with groups. low-affinity reactive dyes. a. Monochlorotriazine dyes. • Concentration Of Electrolyte b. Monofluorotriazine dyes. In the first phase of dyeing, the reactive dyes behave 62 TVC | MAY 2022
dyes occupy an important position for dyeing cellulosic fibres, but this is not the case in the dyeing of natural and synthetic polyamide fibres; however, it is likely • PH Of Dye Bath that environmental pressures will increase the usage The ph of fixation of reactive dyes on cotton and vis- of reactive dyes in the latter area. Cellulosic fibre recose actually depends on individual dyes and the tem- active dye systems pose environmental question due perature and time of dyeing. to their current high salt requirements and coloured effluent discharge. In the case of polyamide fibres such • Time of Dyeing as wool, reactive dyes give good uptake and fixation The dye is generally added to the bath into the porefficiencies and their usage is expected to grow since tions. The salt may also be added in two lots. Exhausthey offer the possibility to replace chrome dyes. tion normally takes place in 20-30 minutes. There is no specific advantage in extending the exhaustion phase Many of the reactive dyes available today contain two beyond 30 minutes. The alkali is then added also in reactive groups. Such dyes are known as bifunctional two lots, and the dyeing continued for 30-90 minutes. reactive dyes and are further classified as homobifunctional , containing two identical reactive groups (e.g. • Nature Of Fibre the ICI Procion HE dyes with two aminochloro-s-triThere are marked differences in the degree of exhaus- azine groups), and hetero-bifunctional, containing two tion obtained with reacting to dyes on different cellu- different reactive groups (e.g. the Sumitomo Sumifix losic fibres. Viscose rayon gives the highest exhaustion Supra dyes with aminochloro-s-triazine and sulphaand cotton the lowest with mercerized cotton occupy- toethylsuphone groups) (Taylor, 2000). Technically, the ing an intermediate position. bifunctional dyes have increased probability of reaction with the fibre. Versatility of Reactive Dyes like direct dyes and therefore electrolytes are used for improving the exhaustion percentages.
However, these additional reactive groups can have an impact on important dyeing properties such as substantivity and migration because they change the moA formulation and a method of printing anion or meltlecular size and alter the extent and mode of reactivity. able in a layer having a reactive dyes or mixtures of Therefore, the idea of additional reactive group (s) has reactive dyes and disperse dyes as colorants. The melt been more of patenting interest (Taylor, 2000). A carelayer also includes an alkaline substance, a binder and ful combination of reactive groups can make polyfuncoptionally, a heat activated printing additive. Permational dyes superior to traditional dyes. nently bonded colour images are provided by the reaction between the reactive dye and the final substrate, Commercial mixtures of selected reactive dyes have which may be any cellulosic, protein, or polyamide fi- become popular because they provide an economic range of secondary and tertiary colours (Taylor, 2000). bre material. At the same time, the commercial mixtures can have • New Reactive Dye Ink Set Added Dupont Artistry improved dyeing properties and reduced sensitivity to Ink dyeing variables such as temperature and pH and othDupont Digital Printing, a leading supplier of inkjet inks er factors. announced the addition of a new reactive dye in the Several tri-, tetra-, and penta-functional dyes have set to their portfolio of digital textile inks at the Drupa been developed. Some have been introduced to the 2008 trade show in Dusseldorf, Germany. The inks can market (Taylor, 2000; Lewis, 2009). Ongoing improvebe fixed by the various methods of fixation typically ments from further R&D in this area are expected to used in conventional printing with reactive dyes and come. provide high wash fastness and perspiration tolerance making them ideal for apparel application. Reactive •
Use Of Reactive Dye in Thermal Transfer Printing Process
63 TVC | MAY 2022
64 TVC | MAY 2022
New Products
Recron® Cotluk for cotton look & feel TVC Editorial Team
R
eliance is the largest manufacturer of polyester fibres and yarns in the world, with a present-day capability of 2.5 million tonnes per annum. Recron® is the flagship emblem of Reliance Polyester. Today Recron® stands for the very best quality, among the differentiated and speciality polyester fibres and yarns. Recron ® POY products are produced at various state-of-the-art plants using multiple leading process technologies like Barmag, Dupont, Toray, Inventa, Zimmer, etc. to suit various customer requirements. Reliance has achieved a milestone in polyesters by introducing Recron® Cotluk- a product that imparts the much-desired cotton look and feel to the fabric, thus enhancing the value of the garment. Garments that have a dull, matt appearance are the latest in fashion today. Recron® Cotluk is a new world class product launched by Reliance in response to the demand from industries both domestic and world-wide.
Testing Centre and Reliance Fibre Application Centre continuously expand and introduce revolutionary merchandise for the fabric industry. Going ahead, Reliance Polyesters is set to guide now no longer through merchandise or services, and also additionally through efforts for sustainability and inclusive growth.
Choice of Lustre
Cross-section
Semi-dull
Round
Bright
Trilobal, Round
Super Bright
Trilobal, Round, 3 Nut, I-cross section
Full Dull (Cotluk)
Round,
Cationic (Recron Superdye) Trilobal Round Dope Dyed Black/Colors (Dull, Full Dull and Bright)
Round, Trilobal
Recron® home décor provides enhanced aesthetics, comfort and performance for technology to infuse new-age functionality into conventional fabrics. Recron home decor fabric is smart fabric for beautiful homes. All products are backed by Reliance’s QC systems, Reliance’s global sales network and supported by prompt technical services to meet international quality standards.
Recron ® POY products are specially designed keeping in mind various types of downstream texturising/processing machines. They are capable of running at maximum process speeds, giving high yields and superior Reliance invests large quantities on R&D in the poly- quality end products with uniform dyeability in fabrics. ester sector. Reliance Technology Centre, Reliance Regular innovations in products keeping in mind the 65 TVC | MAY 2022
changing customer requirements and fashion trends help Recron ® POY products stay ahead of competition. Salient features are: •
A smart alternative to cotton
•
Easy care
•
Soft fabric with excellent strength and durability
•
Cotton- like look and feel, along with an ever-lasting matte appearance
•
Also available is Recon GreenGold Cotluk-made from 100% used PET bottles.
Fabric Properties Recron® POY products are available in a wide range of lustre and cross-sections: Products are: Recron® Partially Oriented Yarn; Recron® Polyster Staple Fibre; Recron® Polyster Textured Yarn; Recron® Fully drawn Yarn; Recron® Polyster Fibrefill, and; Recron® Industrial Yarn. The Brands are: Recron® LP; Recron® Micrelle; Recron® Green; Recron® 3D Conjugate; Recron® Feelfresh; Recron® Superdye; Recron® Cotluk; Recron® SHT; Recron® Recosilk; Recron® Precoloured; Recron® Duratarp; Recron® FR; Recron® Easy Stretch. Benefits to consumers are: Unique deep lustre; Soft handle; Excellent drape; Matt appearance in top dyed fabric; Dry touch Benefits to manufacturers are: Product differentiation; Extra premium; Cotton look and feel; Prominence of prints due to ‘Matt’ background; Enhanced look and feel of the fabric in combination with PV and PC; ‘Matt effect’ in dyed yarns. Recron® POY products through the Textured/Draw warping/Air Texturising routes are suitable for various end uses like: Saree / Dress Material / Dupatta / Blouse; Velvet / Cords / Chenille / Feather Yarns & Fabrics; Sportswear; Shoe Lining / Bolting Cloth; Circular / Warp knitwear; Tapes / Labels; Home Furnishings, etc; Special applications like Headliner; Cushion covers; Curtains, etc. 66 TVC | MAY 2022
FABRICLORE COLLABORATES WITH LINEN FIESTA TVC Editorial Team
F
abriclore, India’s first fabric & design commerce platform which was founded in 2016 by Mr. Vijay Sharma, Mr. Anupam Arya and Mr. Sandeep Sharma, has recently concluded a collaboration with one of the eminent manufacturers of Linen Fabrics based out of Mumbai, known as ‘Linen Fiesta’ underneath the company, ‘Vrijesh Natural’. The Owner, Aditya Agarwal had visited Fabriclore on 3rd May, 2022. According to Mr Sandeep Sharma, Founder & VP – Operations, “Fabriclore has got into a strategic alliance with Linen Fiesta, the first manufacturers in India to weave linen fabrics, wherein they will be getting 100+ SKUs and will get acquainted with the E-Commerce side of the business”. “It’s hard to believe now, but, less than three decades ago, linen was completely unknown to India. When we came across the fabric in Europe, we instantaneously saw its potential to revolutionise the Indian market. We realized that its texture, breathability, sophisticated appearance, anti-fungal property, and high moisture absorbing capacity would strongly appeal to the discerning Indian customer. Following this instinct, we became one of the first manufacturers in India to weave linen fabrics. We still had to learn how to match the quality of the European weavers, create awareness among the consumers and develop a whole new market for this fabric but that didn’t deter us. We believed that in a tropical country filled with consumers that
have an appreciation for fine textiles, we could popularize this fabric,” says Aditya Agarwal. “In order to do so, we launched “Linen Fiesta”, a brand that has become synonymous with the finest quality of linen fabrics today, and the rest is history. We were born in 1970 as a result of Mr. C.L. Agarwal’s entrepreneurial zeal and desire to increase the sustainability of silk-spinning by recycling waste silk yarn. While we started as a small yarn trading company, we quickly grew into a Government Recognized Export House that manufactured and exported our own silk yarn and fabrics through our Silk Spinning Mill in Panvel. After becoming the largest exporters of silk made-ups in the country, we started looking for new challenges. Leveraging our brand name, which had become synonymous with highquality, timely delivery, and continuous innovation, we ventured into weaving other natural fabrics by setting up state-of-the-art manufacturing plants in Vapi, Bhiwandi, and Bangalore,” says Mr. Agarwal. “Today, we are 47 years old, with over 720 pairs of hands spread across 5 production units, and are selling to 20+ countries. We are one of the biggest weavers and exporters of linen fabrics and scarves in India. Our in-house merchandisers, design studios and agent offices across the world keep us updated on the latest trends and ensure that our customers get all the personal interaction they need. We supply premium Linen apparel fabrics through our dealer network to 1000+ retail outlets across India,” he said.
How Can We Obtain Useful Cellulose Polymer Fibers from Old Textiles? Extracting Cellulose-Based Fibers Research into the extraction and exploration of cellulose-based polymers has rapidly become a key area of focus in materials science and the textile industry in recent years. Traditionally, wood has been considered to be the main source of this important material due to its natural abundance. Bleached kraft wood pulp has been one of the most exploited forms in many industries.
However, despite the inherent sustainability of cellulose-based polymer fibers, in the past decade attention has turned to the exploitation of waste materials, especially from the agricultural and textiles industries. Recovering cellulosic materials from these valuable waste streams has the benefits of cost-effectiveness and waste reduction, bringing the production of many commercially useful materials in line with the circular economy concept.
Waste is a key concern in modern industry due to environmental contamination and the depletion of natu“Our heritage of Handloom Fabrics created by hand- ral resources. Many agricultural and textile wastes are craft weavers and printers, along with our decades-old commonly disposed of via landfilling or incinerated to produce biomass and energy. Whilst recovering energy archives of textiles, serve as our design inspirations to and biomass from waste materials has the potential to create new products. We still see the artisanal value improve sustainability, valuable resources which could of traditional fabrics and create products by using a be used to manufacture other products are lost in the medley of handloom weavers, block printers as well as process. our cutting edge jacquard looms and space dyeing ma- As the demand for cotton-based materials and prodchines. This fusion defines our design philosophy and ucts has grown, so has pre-consumer and post-conmakes our collection fresh and unique. While we have sumer waste. With these products exists a significant potential for resource recovery, as finished cotton expanded into new product lines, we can never forget products contain up to 99% cellulose content, with why we were created in the first place: Sustainability. many impurities already removed during the manufacThis dictates every business decision we make.” turing process. 67 TVC | MAY 2022
1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com
G IN
www.omaxcotspin.com
N IN G
R FA M IN G KN IT TI N G
SP IN N IN D
YE
IN
G
AN
D
PR
IN
TI
G
N
AR
G
M
EN
TI
N
G
G FARM TO FASHION
842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA). 68 Sr. TVCNo. | MAY 2022
Corporate Profile
BSL TO DOUBLE TURNOVER TO RS. 900 CRORE BY FY 2023-2024 TVC Editorial Team likely to continue to grow. BSL is IKEA’s sole provider of furniture fabrics from South Asia, and its products are sold in all 450 IKEA stores around the world. Talking about the year’s performance and expansion strategies, Managing Director, Mr. Nivedan Churiwal says: “We are glad to announce that our business grew across all segments both in domestic and export markets and we have delivered good results in the last FY. Despite a sharp increase in all input costs, we have been able to pass on the prices and deliver good results. In the current FY, we expect good growth in all segments and we are targeting a turnover of close toRs. 600 crore with a very healthy bottom-line.”
Expansion Plans
B
SL LTD, a legacy brand and one of the most prominent players in the textile business has planned a multi-faceted exponential plan. The Company is planning to double its sales to over Rs. 900 crore by 2023 -24 from the current Rs. 440 crore. BSL LTD. delivered a robust performance in the FY ended 31st March’22 with a PAT of Rs. 11.48 crore and operating profits of Rs. 41.43 crore. The company has a global presence in over 50 countries along with a pan-India presence and expects its sales to grow by 30 -40% YOY with a quantum jump in the bottom-line.
BSL Ltd. has planned Rs. 200 crore of Capex, with Rs. 150 crore dedicated to the establishment of their cotton spinning unit. The facility will have 30,000 spindles and will be capable of generating 700 tonnes of cotton yarn every month. This project is scheduled to begin in December 2022. The remaining funds will be used to expand the company’s PV spinning, weaving, and processing capabilities. The state-of-the-art production facility is equipped with the best machinery in the world coming from various countries such as Japan, Belgium, Germany and Switzerland etc.
In addition, the company owns two domestic brands, BSL and Geoffrey Hammonds (GH). GH is the premium range, whereas BSL is for the mass market. BSL has significantly improved its product range and market offerings, particularly for domestic customers. It now provides a very expansive range, especially under its For the past decade, IKEA has been a major business premium brand GH where they expect to more than and growth driver for the company, and this business is double the sales between 2022 and 2024. The current 69 TVC | MAY 2022
focal products are pure wool and poly wool fabrics, as well as ethnic wear in the form of Jacquards. The luxury market is being given special attention, with the launch of GH-Insignia, a new direct to retail brand.
and development with a single objective of being the best in product manufacturing and service. This is followed with one core mantra: ‘People before profits’ and ‘product innovation before prejudice’.
Towards Sustainability:
The extensive product range covers wool, wool-blended premium lightweight fabrics to wool modal, Trevira wool and other specialised fabrics blended with Lycra, Silk, Linen, Tencel, etc. The strong inhouse quality assurance team ensures all these top-of-the-line products are manufactured under the ambit of the necessary accreditations - it is a ISO 9001: 2015 certified company for quality regulations, OHSAS 18001: 2007 for health and safety compliance and ISO 45001 for environmental safety. The target group for the expansive range of suitings is mainly men, aged between 25-55 years, across all states. This includes the rural areas of the country where the Group has a strong presence.
The company is transitioning away from fossil fuels towards sustainable resources. This is being executed by making a shift from coal to sustainable biofuels like rice husk etc. It is also working to expand its capacity for generating alternative and renewable energy sources. The organisation is committed to environmental sustainability and is one of the few to have reached milestones such as ‘Zero Discharge Certification,’ ‘OEKO-TEX,’ and numerous certifications such as ‘Vegan Certification,’ among others.
Journey till now… Having excelled for more than a quarter of a century in the industry; BSL is currently credited with producing over 18 million meters of fabric annually. Steered by the company Managing Director Mr.Nivedan Churiwal along with his competent team, BSL today is a market leader and a household name, boasting of an annual turnover to the tune of Rs. 450 crore.
Besides this, it also boasts of a wide variety of products at affordable pricing as well as a premium range for the niche segment. The furnishing arm of BSL has earned a feather in its cap through its long-standing association with Swedish home furnishing giant IKEA – it is one of the few distinguished companies in the world to manufacture and sell furnishing fabrics to IKEA and The inception of BSL was in 1971 at the small town of notably the only company in South-East Asia to enjoy Bhilwara in Rajasthan, where it is currently headquar- this high-profile business deal. The exhibition of the tered. In those days, the manufacturing of poly-viscose Group products on the digital platform as #lifeisnosuiting was still a unique concept in India. The journey treadymade has also met with stupendous response so far has been nothing less than prolific. Riding on the from the market. exemplary leadership skills, futuristic vision and the The dynamic BSL is continuously striving for business belief of the top brass that there are no shortcuts to development based on heritage, ethics and an unexcellence, the company has moved from strength to flinching passion to be a leader in the industry. To mainstrength and currently serving 1,500 MBOs. By dint of tain its growth saga, the company has robust plans to its exponential growth, it has spread its wings to being capture a growth of 25% on the top line and 20% on present Pan-India as well as in 60 countries across the the bottom line in the near future. Plans are afoot to world now. The company has enhanced its Capex plans ramp up the product supply to 6000 MBOs in the next and, in the process, revised their targets. two years. Consolidation in the states where it has a BSL, with constant innovation vis-a-visits products, training, new technology and reducing wastage of natural resources, follows the acronym “GRIP” as part of its corporate ethos. GRIP denotes Giving back to society, Respect for individual, Integrity and Passion. All the members of the Group adhere to uphold these core values in all respects of their work. The company strives to continuously invest in technology, research 70 TVC | MAY 2022
significant presence as well as focusing its attention to newer domains like east UP, Bihar, Jharkhand and West Bengal is also on the cards. The major impetus for garnering wider outreach is expected to be concentrated through key activities like product innovation, new product launches, brand building and other promotional activities.
Futuristic Twisting
Twisting Solutions
Textiles
FIBC Threads Belting Fabrics Dipped Cords Geo Textiles Bullet Proof Jackets
direct twisting + precision winding Tapes / Twines / Multifilament
Meera Industries Limited
Meera Industries USA, LLC
2126, Road No.2, GIDC, Sachin, Surat
209, Swathmore Ave, High Point
394230 Gujarat, INDIA
71 TVC | MAY 2022
NC, USA 27263
+91 98795 97041 | sales@meeraind.com | www.meeraind.com
market report
INDIA’S EXPORTS OF TECHNICAL TEXTILES WITNESS A HIKE By Neha Lavesh Bisht
A
technical textile is a textile product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where function is the primary criterion. Technical textiles include textiles for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g., implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agro textiles (textiles for crop protection), and protective clothing (e.g., heat and radiation protection for fire fighter clothing, molten metal protection for welders, stab protection and bulletproof vests, and spacesuits).
India exported textile wall coverings worth at US$ 0.02 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which increased to US$ 0.06 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 215.63%. B-Export of Transmission or conveyor belts or belting of textile
In Jan-Feb 2021 (R), the exports of Transmission or conveyor belts or belting of textile uses is US$1.33 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and which increased to 1.6 % in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the The sector is large, growing, and supports a vast array exports increased by 20.83%. of other industries. The global growth rate of technical textiles is about 4% per year. Currently, technical tex- C-Export of Textile wicks and gas mantles tile materials are most widely used in filter clothing, India exported Textile wicks and gas mantles worth at furniture, hygiene medicals and construction material. US$ 0.82 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is decreased A-Export of textile wall coverings to US$ 0.55 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -32.21%.
Unit: USD Million
72 TVC | MAY 2022
D-Export of Textile fabric coated with gum or stiff- cord worth at US$ 2.12 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is increased to US$ 2.22 million in Jan-Feb 2022 ened nes (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased India exported Textile fabric coated with gum or stiffby 4.39%. ened nes worth at US$ 1.87 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is decreased to US$ 1.47million in Jan-Feb 2022 K-Export of Textile fabric treated for theatrical back(F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased drops, etc. by -21.4%. India exported Textile fabric treated for theatrical E-Export of Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity manmade backdrops, etc. worth at US$ 1.83 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is increased to US$ 3.19million in Janyarn Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports India exported Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity manincreased by 74.28%. made yarn worth at US$ 8.68 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is increased to US$ 14.85 million in Jan-Feb Unit: USD Million 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports in- Commodity Jan-Feb Jan-Feb %Growth creased by - 71.16%. 2021 (R) 2022 (F) F-Export of Linoleum, floor covering with coating on textile back India exported Linoleum, floor covering with coating on textile back worth at US$ 0 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is at same range at US$ 0 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 1800%. G- Export of Special textile products for technical purposes India exported Special textile products for technical purposes worth at US$ 7.71 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is increased to US$ 10.03 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 30.11%. H-Export of Fabric impregnated, coated or covered with plastic India exported Fabric impregnated, coated or covered with plastic worth at US$ 49.97 million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is decreased to US$ 38.33million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -23.29%. I-Export of Textile hosepiping and similar textile tubing India exported Textile hosepiping and similar textile tubing with plastic worth at US$ 0.41million in Jan-Feb 2021 (R) which is increased to US$ 0.74 million in JanFeb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 79.8%. J- Export of Rubberised textile fabric, except tyre cord
A- Textile wall coverings B- Transmission or conveyor belts or belting of textile C-Textile wicks and gas mantles D-Textile fabric coated with gum or stiffened nes E-Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity manmade yarn F-Linoleum, floor covering with coating on textile back G-Special textile products for technical purposes H-Fabric impregnated, coated or covered with plastic I-Textile hosepiping and similar textile tubing J-Rubberised textile fabric, except tyre cord K-Textile fabric treated for theatrical backdrops, etc
0.02
0.06
215.63
1.33
1.6
20.83
0.82
0.55
-32.21
1.87
1.47
-21.4
8.68
14.85
71.16
0
0
1800
7.71
10.03
30.11
49.97
38.33
-23.29
0.41
0.74
79.8
2.12
2.22
4.39
1.83
3.19
74.28
India exported Rubberised textile fabric, except tyre Source: Ministry of Commerce and Industry 73 TVC | MAY 2022
74 TVC | MAY 2022
mMF report
India - Man Made Fiber Unit: USD Million
EXPORTS April - March 2021
April - March 2022
% Change
POLYESTER Staple Fibre
232.69
442.62
90.22
Filament Yarn
611.41
1024.17
67.51
ACRYLIC Staple Fibre
14.33
8.52
-40.54
NYLON Filament Yarn
17.1
30.74
79.77
VISCOSE Staple Fibre
114.13
205.36
79.94
Filament Yarn
24.88
33.46
34.49
IMPORTS April - March 2021
April - March 2022
% Change
POLYESTER Staple Fibre
87.34
105.22
20.47
Filament Yarn
83.58
141.83
69.69
ACRYLIC Staple Fibre
61.01
87.76
43.85
NYLON Filament Yarn
17.87
20.78
16.28
VISCOSE Staple Fibre
121.88
187.82
54.10
Filament Yarn
140.96
258.51
83.39
Source: Ministry of Commerce and Industry
75 TVC | MAY 2022
76 TVC | MAY 2022
Event calendar
June
77 TVC | MAY 2022
"Pioneers In Weaving Preparatory Since 1978” DIRECT WARPINGCOTTON
HIGH SPEED SIZING MACHINE
d e r ffe
f Products o O s ie
DIRECT WARPER WITH EVENISER
Va r i e t
HIGH SPEED FILAMENT SIZING MACHINE
Contact Us FILAMENT BEAMING MACHINE
JUTE SIZING
78 TVC | MAY 2022
+91 80800 62392 amritlakshmi.com amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com
GO DIGITAL WITH US Full Page Advertisement in E-Magazine Banner on www.textilevaluechain.in Home Page Social Media Promotion in TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Customised Email Marketing Banner in Weekly Newsletter Online Directory Listing in www.textilevaluechain.in Recruitment Solution through Job Portal www.textileappareljobs.com (365 days) LET YOUR BUSINESS WORKS DIGITALLY INVEST TIME PRODUCTIVELY
MD. TANWEER 79 TVC TVC||Jan MAY2022 2022 +91 9167986305, SALES@TEXTILEVALUECHAIN.COM 70
80 TVC | MAY 2022
81 TVC | MAY 2022
82 TVC | MAY 2022
83 TVC | MAY 2022
Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. We spin to weave your dreams
Factory Address: Survey No. 70, Thangadh Road, Chotila to 3 kms., At: Nava, Chotila, Dist.: Surendranagar, Gujarat, INDIA - 363520
ABOUT SSCPL Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. is a textile company involved in the manufacturing of Cotton Yarn from the Raw Cotton directly from the Farmers. With the increasing demand and facilities in textile industry, Shiddhanath stand out among its competitors in terms of product quality delivered within optimum time. With over 500+ employees and workers unite to work at Shiddhanath, all of them are bound to meet the company's expectations which makes the company lead in the textile industry.
PRODUCTS OF YARN 100% Cotton Carded Yarn (10's to 30's Ne) 100% Cotton Carded CompactYarn (10's to 30's Ne) 100% Cotton Semi Combed Compact Yarn (16's to 30's Ne) 100% Cotton Combed Compact Yarn (16's to 30's Ne) Slub Yarn (10's to 20's Ne)
*All Yarns will be available in Organic, BCI, PSCP, GRS and RCS.
84 TVC | MAY 2022 accounts@shiddhanath.com
www.shiddhanath.in
85 TVC | MAY 2022
86 TVC | MAY 2022
87 TVC | MAY 2022
88 TVC | MAY 2022
89 TVC | MAY 2022
90 TVC | MAY 2022
91 TVC | MAY 2022
92 TVC | MAY 2022
®
https://www.dodhiagroup.com/
One of the Largest Manufacturers and Exporters of Polyester Filaments Speciality Yarns
Recycled Filament Yarns
Shirting & Suitings Yarns
Carpets/Rugs Yarns
Yarns for room darkening fabrics
Knitting Yarns
Yarns for floor coverings
Space-Dyed Yarns
Yarns for upholstery
We have successfully carved out a niche through our product wide product range of dyed, space-dyed, melange, photochrom, fire & UV resistant, crimped, high bulked, twisted, Airtex, multifold/plied yarns & recycled Petopoly™ etc.
93 TVC | MAY 2022
Our eBrochure
8 EDITION th
Exclusive Exhibition on
NONWOVEN TECH ASIA
Nonwoven & Hygiene
INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE
23 24 25 SEPTEMBER 2022
Industries
Pragati Maidan, Delhi, India
BOOK YOUR STALL NOW
Supported By
Organized By
Supported By
94 TVC | MAY 2022
+91 91734 40725
Industry Support
Exclusive Stall Designing Partner
sales@nonwoventechasia.com
Sponsored By
www.nonwoventechasia.com
95 TVC | MAY 2022
96 TVC | MAY 2022
97 TVC | MAY 2022