APRIL 2022

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ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

VOLUME 10 | ISSUE NO. 04 | RS 100 | Pages 126

APRIL 2022

cotton crisis

CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTOn SPINS OUT OF CONTROL!

INTERVIEWS Gimatex/Mohota Legacy 125 Years Usha international , Mr. P.K. Sahni Sanathan Textiles, Mr. Samir Dattani

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Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075 Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st )

SRTEPC, Mr. Anil Rajvanshi AKS, Ms. Nidhi Yadav Educationist, Dr. Suman Mundkur



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70 TVC | MARCH 2022




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26

Table of

CONTENT

17

46

COVER STORY

17 18 23 24

Customs duty off as cotton spins out of control!

CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August

“Industry may go for more blends” Cyclic change behind cotton rise: Mahesh Maheshwari

52 56 61 64 67

SMART FIBRES

26

Overview of smart fibres

MMF & TECHNICAL TEXTILES

31

Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF

DOUBLE MASK

34

Mask, Protect it!

SETU - INDUSTRY PROJECT

37

SETU: Mission & Goals

KNITTING IN SURAT

43

Latest trend in knitting industry in Surat

INTERVIEW

46 13

TVC | APRIL 2022

“Gimatex always focuses on cotton value addition”

52

56

Usha international is increasing footprint in East: P.K. Sahni Sustainability is at the heart of our every move: Sammir Dattani Gujarat turning into vibrant hub of textiles: Anil Rajvanshi We bring fresh fusion themes every 2 weeks: Nidhi Yadav of AKS

“Dynamic shift in textile industry with focus on self-reliance” Dr. Suman Mundkur

CORPORATE NEWS

73 73 75 77 78

Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America

81

Data-based yield improvement: Uster automatic fabric inspection leads the way to the future

Mag Accutrash in Bremen Institute US$65 billion scope in textile exports

STOLL launches new “WONDERFUL” trend collection Pratibha Syntex’s Greenfield project for sustainable textiles

YARN REPORT

84

Yarn bazar report

E-COMMERCE TRENDS

86

11 most important e-commerce trends of 2022-2023


Table of

CONTENT

95

105

FASHION

111

India’s exports of knitted fabric witness a hike

India’s exports of bed, table, toilet & kitchen linens witness a hike

88

Young designers of Satyam Fashion Institute showcase women of today

91

112

Denim show to showcase Indian industry prowess at first Mumbai edition

114

EVENTS UPDATES

93 95 99

100 102 104 105 107 110 14

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SHOW CALENDAR ADVERTISER INDEX

Gujrat chamber of commerce and industry : Textile leadership conclave 2022

Back Page: RAYMOND

Page 55: ALLIANCE FIBER

India is yet to catch up with global trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras

Back Inside: RAYSIL

Page 60: VATSAL EXPORT

Front Inside: RIMTEX

Page 63: KEN INDIA

Page 3: OERLIKON

Page 72: SAKTHI INDUSTRIES

Page 4: ASTRA TECH

Page 74: TEX FAB ENGINEERS

Page 5: COLOR JET

Page 80: OMAX

Page 6: YARNEX MUMBAI

Page 83: UNITECH TEXMACH

Page 7: SIYARAM

Page 85: BISHNU EXPORT

Page 8: GARTEX- MUMBAI

Page 90: COSMOS

Page 9: GSCS

Page 109: CNR

Page 10: LRT

Page 115: NON WOVEN TECH

EPC For technical textiles mooted

Page 11: WELLKNOWN

Page 116: IGM

Page 12: ITM

Page 117: INTEX

NIFT convocation ceremony

Page 16: YASH MACHINES

Page 118: TEXFAIR

7 innovators join Fashion for Good’s 2022 Asia Innovation Programme

Page 30: SAURER

Garment Training Program for rural community Globalspin Trade Conclave at WTC, Mumbai Smart garments for smarter living, a webinar report

MARKET REPORTS MMF report

Page 25: SHAHLON SYNTHETICS Page 119: MAG SOLVIC

Page 120: PORTUGAL

Page 33: MEERA INDUSTRIES Page 121: TEX TECH

Page 36: USTER

Page 122: KOTAK

Page 42: ATE - PROCESSING Page 123: GLOSSY Page 45: RAMKRISHA SPINTEX Page 124: TVC DIGITAL

Page 51: AMRITLAKSHMI


No End in Sight to Cotton Crisis? Cotton prices have soared to new heights in the recent months, with the Cotton Association of India proclaiming that all, from farmers to traders are ‘bullish’ on the demand for cotton. Cotton industry circles and traders are trading charges that the latter is hoarding artificially pushing up the prices and the former holding the argument that farmers are slowing down release of cotton. The cotton textile industry’s frantic knock at the doors of the Government and the Textiles Ministry to apprise them about the urgent need to remove the duty on cotton yielded results. The Government exempted all customs duty on cotton imports till 30th September 2022. The other key issues taken up with the officials during their meetings included the following: Taking steps to increase production and yield of cotton; Need to continue with the present level of support in terms of ROSCTL and RODTEP Rates; Include Home Textiles in the Notification permitting duty free imports of trimmings and embellishments; Need to extend ROSCTL Rates to items of bedding in HS-9404 and Cotton Bags in HS 4202. In the current year, the export of cotton textiles (madeups, fabrics, yarns, etc.) have performed exceedingly well. As we are well aware, export of cotton textile products under the purview of Texprocil has reached a level of US$14.8 million during April 1, 2021 – March 21, 2022 marking an achievement of 109 per cent of the annual export target determined at US$13.6 million for FY 2021-2022. This achievement is remarkable as the value added Madeups and Fabrics segment have also shown growth along with the Yarn segment, thus contributing towards the growth of the entire sector. India’s merchandise exports have achieved a remarkable landmark by surpassing the level of US$400 billion for the first time during the current financial year. The growth can be attributed to the stellar performance by sectors including textiles that have benefitted from a strong global recovery. The Textiles Minister, Mr. Piyush Goyal is optimistic that the textiles exports of US$100 billion is achievable by 2030. But if irritants like the cotton crisis is let out of control, they may pose a threat to such ambitious targets. Despite the extraordinary trade performance, we cannot remain unmindful of the uncertainties facing the trade and industry. One clear sign of the changes is that the industry may be moving out of pure cotton to blends. Man-made fibres are bound to benefit. The cotton-based industry is left high and dry, with most of the exporters from the Southern parts of India threatening to down shutters. It’s high time industry, farmers, traders and exporters huddle together to find a way out of this mess.

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cover story

CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTON SPINS OUT OF CONTROL! TVC Editorial Team

Cotton-based industries are reeling under the soaring prices of the raw material, and with no end in sight, the crisis has triggered off a series of accusations from varied interest and the industry sending SOS to of no avail. The industry heaved a sigh of relief when the Government finally withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022.

C

otton prices sent shock waves across the textile value chain recently, throwing the entire textile industry out of gear, which has sought the government’s intervention by making stock disclosures mandatory, and taking measures to contain speculation. Placating the industry for its demand to scrap the import duty, the Government withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr. T. Rajkumar, Chairman, CITI thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister, Mr. Narendra Modi Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Mr. Piyush Goyal Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Finance, Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman, Hon’ble Union Minister of Agriculture & Farmers’ Welfare, Mr Narendra Tomar Ji, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles & Railways, Ms.Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji and all the concerned senior government officials for their kind support for withdrawing 10% import duty on Cotton – 5% Basic Customs Duty (BCD) and 5% Agriculture Infrastructure and Development Cess (AIDC), including 10% Social Welfare Cess (SWC) on both amounting to 11% import duty on cotton – from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr T Rajkumar said, “it’s a welcome decision and will help the entire textile value chain to fight not only the 17

TVC | APRIL 2022

steep increase in the cotton price due to the imposition of 10% customs duty on the import of cotton but also to meet the requirement of specialty cotton (extra-long-staple cotton, organic cotton, coloured cotton, etc.) to manufacture high-end products for their niche markets in advanced countries”.

CITI Chairman further stated that we also apprised the Hon’ble Ministers that as per the industry estimates, the duty-free import will not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian textile mills. Since the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the In-


CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August Mr. Atul Ganatra, President of the Cotton Associa- lease cotton stocks for spinning mills, otherwise put tion of India replied to a few questions from the Tex- strict stock limits. tile Value Chain regarding the cotton crisis: c. Remove 11% import duty on cotton. Current situation of cotton is very fearful, every few If the government will act on spinning mills demand months cotton prices are hiked and the industry is then we can see higher corrections in the cotton disturbed, what is the reason for it? market. The reason for the cotton rate going up is everyone in the trade are bullish i.e. from farmers to spinners, due to that farmers are holding the arrivals and bringing cotton for sale very slowly. At the same time all the spinning mills want to buy cotton at a higher rate also as mills are having lower rate inventory and if they buy the cotton at higher rate that may be averaged out. Also, big stockists of cotton bales are bullish, so these stocked bales are also not coming for sale in the market easily.

What is the CAI role to control price hike?

As per CAI, this year cotton production is 335 lakh bales of 170 kg and cotton import will be around 15 lakh bales. The last year carry forward stock is 75 lakh bales, so total arrivals will be 425 lakh bales. Against this availability cotton consumption is 340 lakh bales and cotton export is estimated at 45 lakh bales so total uses will be 385 lakh bales and closing stock as on September 30, 2022 will be 40 lakh bales. Due to higher rate of cotton, next year we are assuming cotHow we should control this situation? Any practical ton sowing will go up by 15 to 30% state-wise and solutions? overall increase will be 20 to 25%. Few reasons for the market going up are fundamen- In many places in India cotton sowing has already tal and at the same time it is also speculation. The started and we are assuming from August onwards spinning mills lobby has put 3 demands with the tex- new crop arrivals will start. Once new crop arrivals tile ministry to control the cotton rates. start and new season estimate of production crosses 400 lakh bales, then we may see huge corrections in b. MNCs and big Indian stockists to be forced to re- cotton prices in India. a. Ban of cotton trading on MCX exchange.

dian cotton farmers. The meetings were fruitful, and the Hon’ble Ministers assured the delegation that their problems will be resolved at the earliest.

dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue.” The Government’s decision to exempt cotton import will Mr Rajkumar further pointed out that MSME seg- boost their sentiments, and help the textile industry to ments, including Handloom, Powerloom, Independent maintain their growth momentum. Knitting, Weaving, Processing, Garmenting and Made- CITI Chairman hoped that the T&C Industry would be up, which accounts for over 80% of the total exports able to achieve the export target of US$ 16.96 billion have no access for Advance Authorization Scheme and (25% increase) set for the cotton value chain and the duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst-affect- total textiles and clothing’s export target of US$ 47.029 ed segments, and their capacity utilisation has already billion (18% increase) set for the financial year 2022-23 18

TVC | APRIL 2022


with the help of availability of cotton fibre and other raw materials at internationally competitive prices to the Indian T&C Industry.

port duty on cotton when prices were nearly half of what they are now. “The steep increase in cotton price and its impact on prices of yarns and fabrics is severely impacting the potential growth of the cotton textile value chain,” said industry participants in a joint statement. Cotton prices soared in a very short span of time which is defying all the logics. On the other hand, demand from downstream products is not in sync with increase in cotton or yarn prices. Even in yarns, demand in counts finer than 40 is muted. Financial year closing in March also weighed heavily on money availability.

Balkrishan Sharma

Some unanswered questions are:

There is no reliable data available of cotton stocks maintained by the kapas traders, ginners and traders. “In the case of spinning mills, only around 40% of the mills provide data to the office of the textile commissioner. This gives the cotton traders a chance to hoard stocks and inflating the prices artificially and take advantage of futures trading on commodity exchanges MCX and NCDEX, says Mr. Balkrishan Sharma, Business and Unit Head Spinning, Ginni Filaments Ltd.

1. Will this bullishness in cotton sustain, and if yes then till when, is a million-dollar question?

“kya karun, kuch samajh nahi aa raha”. (What should I do, not able to understand !!!)

5. Will there be panic buying or customers shall wait and watch?

“cotton ne kahin ka nahi chora”. (Cotton left me nowhere …!!!)

6. Will spinning mills be forced to close spindleage in the times to come because of non-availability of cotton?

“sabko teji mein teji lagti hai aur mandi mein mandi”. (Everyone feels Profit is Profit and Loss will be loss !!)

2. Will it be easy for spinning mills to replace cotton with other products? 3. Is there demand of alternative products other than cotton? 4. Are the arrivals being underreported to maintain bullishness in cotton?

7. Are the figures of 335 lakh bales crop size given by CAI, right?

“koi maal bechkar khush nahi hai aur koi kharidkar khush nahi hai”.(Few are not happy to sell the prod- 8. When MNCs are going to start selling 25 lakh bales stocked with them? ucts, few are not happy to buy the product !!! ) “himmat jawab de rahi hai”. (Courage is the only an- 9. When Government is going to allow import of cotton without duty? swer now !!! ) These are some of the on-the-spot reactions that sum up the confusion, panic, fear, uncertainty and unpredictability which is gripping the textile value chain at present. Everyone is watching each other’s face and no one seems to know as to what they should be doing. Customers are also doing window shopping.

10. When Government is going to ban cotton trading on MCX, at least temporarily?

The industry opines that the Government need to play major role for ongoing price hike of cotton. Ginners, Traders need to give clarity on stocks. Govt bodies like CAI, CCI need to take front step, Government needs to Cotton prices skyrocketed from ₹44,500 per candy (of ask all mills, traders, ginners to share their stock details 356 kg) in February 2021 to ₹90,000 per candy recently. immediately, reflecting stocks in the system should be Notably, the government had levied the 11 per cent im- mandatory not by choice. 19

TVC | APRIL 2022


Result of this crisis shared by industry is as follows: •

Industry will be moving from Pure cotton to Polyester Cotton ( PC), Polyester Viscose ( PV) , 100 % • Polyester or any other readily available fiber like linen, hemp etc. • Industry once moved to other fibers, then demand of cotton automatically reduce then cotton stocks • will be out , by that time no demand will be there for cotton , its tricky situation.

Industry need to wait for next crop ie in September 2022, till the time ie in 6 months industry dynamics will change.

Industry has stopped making counts like 10s, 20s. Industry is moving from 24s count to 30s count, from 15s to 35s count. coarser yarn need less cotton.

Industry can’t able to make finer count , few products scarcity in market which needs finer counts.

Industry moving from Combed to Carded Yarns , carded needs less cotton compared to combed yarns.

• •

30000 bales per day , this huge gap , So the price is Appx Rs. 100000 / bale for Indian cotton. MCX pricing 42000- 43000 per candy which is Rs. 14 to 15 higher than USA cotton. Stop trading to MNC stock exchange and MCX now, till the stocks are back. Business runs on sentiments not facts.

Earlier in April 1, a Textile and Clothing (T&C) Industry Delegation comprising Members of National ComJuly month is very crucial , as by that time many mittee on Textiles and Clothing (NCTC), met the Union mills will be out of stocks of cotton. Farmer don’t Minister of Textiles, Commerce & Industry, Consumer Affairs and Food & Public Distribution, Mr. Piyush have stocks. Goyal, and submitted a Joint Memorandum to allow Corporates like Vardhaman , Nahar will be importduty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the ing cotton. MNC, few corporate spinning mills will present crisis but also to achieve the desired target be holding stocks. set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year Waiting for rainy season , will get moisture of 6% in 2022-2023. The NCTC delegation comprised of Mr T. season. Quantity and quality issue. Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Right now demand is 1 lac per day and available is Industry (CITI), Mr Narendra Goenka, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Mr Manoj Patodia, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Mr Ravi Sam, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), and Mr Raja M. Shanmugham, President, Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA). The NCTC delegation thanked the Prime Minister and Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles for taking numerous path-breaking and historical policy initiatives that enabled India to achieve US$ 400 billion exports that too prior to the scheduled deadline and making India

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to become the fastest growing economy in the world. The total textiles and clothing export increased from US$29.454 billion to US$39.734 billion (estimated) and recorded a growth of 67% in the financial year 20212022 in comparison to the previous year. Similarly, the cotton textile exports also recorded a growth of 56% by reaching US$15.056 billion (estimated).

While Pakistan’s share has increased to 25.71% from 20% and China’s share increased to 19.37% from 12% during the same period.

The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the levy of 11% import duty on cotton is affecting the global competitiveness of the Indian T&C Industry, as the cotton traders are adopting an import parity pricing policy. They also apprised the Minister from January 2022, the Indian cotton price is ruling Rs.15/- to Rs.20/- per kg higher than the international price. The T&C Industry is compelled to import high quality extra-long-staple cotton, sustainable cotton, and contamination free cotton by paying 11% duty to meet the export commitments, whereas, the competing countries (Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, Pakistan, etc.) enjoy the advantage of duty-free import of cotton.

itive rate.

The NCTC delegation also pointed out that the MSME segments, including handloom, powerloom, independent knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting and made-up segments that account over 80% of the exThe National Committee on Textiles and Clothing (NCTC) ports have no access for advance authorization scheme delegation apprised the Minister about the shortage of and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst afquality cotton that the Textiles and Clothing (T&C) In- fected segments and their capacity utilisation has aldustry is facing at the moment on the backdrop of de- ready dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge clining domestic cotton production during the current job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue. cotton season (around 340 lakh bales of 170 kgs each The NCTC delegation requested to the Union Minister as against 360-370 lakh bales production in the previ- of Textiles that the only option left for the T&C Industry ous years) and the increased T&C Industry’s demand is to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide for cotton (360 lakh bales as against 300 to 320 lakh over the present crisis but also to achieve the cotton bales in the previous years) and an estimated export textile’s export target of US$16.963 billion (25% inof 50 lakh bales. The Industry delegation appealed to crease) and the total textiles and clothing’s export tarthe Union Minister of Textiles to allow the duty-free get of US$47.029 billion (6% increase) for the financial import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis year 2022-2023. The Indian T&C Industry is optimistic but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian to achieve this steep increase in the target if cotton is T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023. made available to them at an internationally compet-

The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the steep increase in the cotton prices and shortage of quality cotton have resulted in the cancellation of Indian export orders and diversion of the same to Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, and Pakistan by the importers in EU, USA, Japan, etc. They cited India’s share in US bedlinen exports has declined from an average of 55% during 2021 to 44.85% in the month of January 2022. 21

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The NCTC delegation opined that the duty-free import may not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian textile mills. As the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the Indian cotton farmers. The trade bodies have also highlighted that the spinning mills were left with cotton stock of only 40 days or (41 lakh bales each of 170 kg) as against three to six months’ stock during any cotton season at the end of March. Since more than 90 per cent of the cotton crop is said to have arrived into the market during the months of December and March, industry players are suspecting a lack of clarity on the data. “Currently, approximately 240 lakh bales of cotton has arrived into the market as against 320 lakh bales that should have arrived by this time,” the industry players said pointing out that 11 per cent import duty has emboldened the


es. India’s domestic consumption of cotton yarn is well below its production and its exports are also declining (from 1,313.43 million kg in 2013-14 to 959.79 million Cotton yarn prices have risen very steeply in India and kg 2019-20 at a CAGR of about (-) 3%). Both low doin overseas markets in the recent past. There is a huge mestic consumption and decline in exports are leadshortage of yarn globally, with capacities shrinking ing to surplus production of cotton yarn in the country, and acute power and labour shortages in geographies which is harming the spinning industry. where there is good quality spinning capacity. India Value-wise, in 2019-2020 the cotton yarn exports has the world’s second largest spinning capacity after declined by 29.4 per cent to US$2,760.51 from China, commanding a share of the global Cotton Yarn US$3,895.52 in 2018-2019. Bangladesh, China and market – currently producing over 4700 Mn. Kgs of Egypt remained the top three exporting countries spun yarn of which over 3,400 Mn. Kgs is cotton yarn. for India. India shipped cotton yarn worth US$590.57 Cotton Yarn accounts for nearly 73% of total spun yarn million to Bangladesh in 2019-2020 (-20.03 per cent); production. Indian Spinning Industry is the most mod- US$590.57 million (down 53.92 per cent) to China and US$181.79 million (-1.11%) to Egypt. The share of ern and efficient in the world. The world’s most renowned Indian Cotton Yarns are Vietnam in China’s total imports of cotton yarn has inavailable as greige, bleached, mercerized, gassed, creased from 7.61% in 2009 to 36.66% in 2018, while twisted, dyed or an endless range of fashion yarns like that of India has increased from 7.75% to 21.74% mélange, stretch, blends, high twist and so on to meet during the same period. India also faces duty challengthe different applications in fashion, clothing, home es in export markets vis-à-vis competing countries. textiles, hosiery, and industrial fabrics. India is the big- Pakistan and Bangladesh levy higher rates of duty on gest producer of denim in the world with the world-fa- Indian yarn, while they enjoy duty free or concessional mous brands like Arvind, Jindal, Aarvee, Pratap Spin- duty access in India. India is lagging in cotton exports to major markets due to a duty disadvantage vis-a-vis tex, Etco Denim, Raymond and so on. Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan. Countries like BanToday, Indian cotton yarn is widely accepted in Inter- gladesh and Vietnam enjoy duty-free access in world’s national markets as the exporters here regularly meet largest cotton yarn markets such as China. the needs of importers with unmatched efficiency and economy in countries like USA, Italy, Spain, Japan, Chi- The global cotton yarn market decreased by -2.8% to $77.20 B in 2019, after the prominent growth recorded na, South Korea, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Vietnam etc. in 2018 when the market value increased by 18% yearThe lockdown caused by the COVID-19 pandemic in to-year. In 2019, approx. 4.5M tonnes of cotton yarn India and across the globe from mid-March 2020 has were imported worldwide, which is down by -3.1% created negative impact on prices and production and compared with the year before. The most prominent thereof on the Yarn demand. Cotton yarn spinning sec- rate of growth was recorded in 2015 with an increase tor is completely dependent on production and prices of 8.6% year-to-year. As a result, imports attained a of cotton. Over the past few years, not only production peak of 4.8M tonnes. In value terms, cotton yarn imof cotton decreased in India, but also its prices have ports dropped to $13.7B in 2019. increased. Cotton production in India has reduced from 398 lakh bales in 2013-2014 to 357 lakh bales in Looking at the increase in recent demand for yarn in 2019-2020. Prices of raw cotton increased by over 10% the domestic market, a lot of small spinners who had during the same period. This has put considerable bur- closed during lockdown period have restarted their den on the spinning industry. Price increase in cotton mills from October 2020. National Textile Corporation yarn has not been sufficient to match the increasing (NTC) have announced that they are restarting around cost of raw materials and highly fluctuating cotton pric- 40% of their spindle capacity which has been idle since traders to hoard cotton in the name of farmers, adopt import parity pricing policy and curtail the global competitiveness of the Indian textile industry.

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the lockdown. The present situaꢁon is only a temporary phenomenon and market forces will ensure that the demand-supply balance is restored in due course.Southern India Mills Associaꢁon (SIMA) have sent an advisory to all Member Mills to ensure uninterrupted yarn supply to the kniꢂng and weaving sectors and avoid undue volaꢁlity in prices.

“INDUSTRY MAY GO FOR MORE BLENDS”

Peush Narang Peush Narang, Program Representaꢁve of Coꢀon USA replied to a couple of quesꢁons from the Texꢁle Value Chain. What is the future of coꢀon from the USA at a ꢁme coꢀon is highly in demand in India? Sales for U.S. cotton reflect strong demand. The mills want to buy cotton which is good quality, consistent and gives them good efficiency, and that exactly is what U.S. cotton has been delivering for many years. Now we have a COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ technical team which is helping the mills with what they can expect from the quality of U.S. cotton and also help them plan better. Our SOLUTIONS team can also guide them operationally in terms of what changes they could do to improve their efficiency. Our team of SOLUTIONS experts has created five business-building programs, providing unmatched expertise informed by work with over 1,500 mills in 50 countries. Our programs are complimentary for customers who are COTTON USA™ licensees or U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® members.

23 TVC | APRIL 2022

In terms of sustainability, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. Aligned with the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals, the Trust Protocol brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to more sustainable cotton production and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency. This is what exactly consumers are looking for and what the U.S. cotton industry is offering.

What trends do you see in coꢀon and other fibres? I think the recent trend what we are seeing now is that people are switching to blends to meet the economics. But in India, cotton has a strong future because the industry has full faith that cotton will remain the engine of growth in the textile industry. The recent announcement made by the honorable Ministry of Finance on April 13, 2022 to exempt the import duty on cotton until Sept. 30, 2022, is a welcome step for the textile industry. Thanks to the Indian cotton associations and the textile associations who have collaborated on behalf of Indian textile industry. I think mills will be much happier as they now have access to quality U.S. cotton and this will be good for spinners.


CYCLIC CHANGE BEHIND COTTON RISE: MAHESH MAHESHWARI TVC Editorial Team

A

ccording to Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari , Executive Director of Nimbark Fashion Limited, the cost of cotton is currently about Rs. 1 lakh per candy. It has been said that in commodity market , there is a price cycle of each product and thus we see the rise of cotton prices today. “I don’t think that cotton prices will continue to stay in this range. When this cycle ends, the cost of cotton candy will settle between Rs. 60000-70000. I believe that in a few months time, we will be able to ascertain whether the crop of cotton will continue to affect the industry or not. During 2011, the cost of cotton rose upto Rs. 60000- 62000 which eventually came down to Rs. 32000 in a few months time. So, as it is said, history repeats itself and we can see a similar pattern today in cotton prices.” says Mr. Maheshwari, while speaking to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain, during the cotton crisis.

Views on Current Cotton Price Crisis

seasons, mood, lifestyle, position, stage/situation in life, etc. Due to COVID-19 lockdown, people did not Indian Textile Industry had barriers as far as the prices spend on clothes since they were at home and now, were concerned, yet, today we see those barriers repost lockdown I think variety and new trends of clothducing and an acceptance by the industry to this new ing are the top priority of individuals with high disposdevelopment. As necessity is the mother of invention, able incomes. With Government of India’s support to the cotton price crisis has led to industry into diversitextile exports, in the next five years, the growth of fying towards production of unique blends of cotton export sector will also help the industry to boost revand other fibers which will benefit the mills to reduce enues. cotton consumption and look forward for new markets. Those mills who were only dependent on cotton Advice to Start Ups production, now have an opportunity to diversify their The IndianTextile industry is a difficult industry, to start product range. If cotton cost has increased, parallelly up a new business into. Since the industry is huge, the demand of polyester has increased. When the rate whatever you learn, you’d still be lacking in knowledge. will come down as per the cycle, cotton will be in de- Thus, new age entrepreneurs should have a learning mand again. There are no droughts this season, there- attitude. They should learn from experienced people, fore there will not be issues in the spinning process. from teams and professionals. Textile industry has huge One great market learning of this situation is that the history ; it is not like IT industry which has bloomed in a textile industry has developed acceptance to market few years span. Thus, enter the businesses with a long fluctuations whether it is yarn or fabric. term plan and a mindset that Rome wasn’t built in a The future of Indian Textile Industry is bright. I understand that in India, the consumption will be double of what it is today by the year 2030. Owing to the growth of India’s GDP the per capita income has increased, leading to increase in per capita consumption, both quality and quantity wise. In the last few years there has been an increase in lifestyle expenditures. Once upon a time, consumers were not concerned about their wardrobe until the clothes were worn out, but nowadays the trend is to change the wardrobe as per 24

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day.

In the Textile Industry, margins are less and money is made and earned over time. Here you cannot gain huge margins. Net margins are are quite low. Thus to make a mark in the industry you have to research on market trends, focus on new developments in production and focus on value added products, since these are highly demanding and worth the risk. If we manage these things, the future is bright and we can do business in a good way.


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Smart Fibres

OVERVIEW OF SMART FIBRES Sakshi Khool D.K.T.E’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

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ABSTRACT

ver the past few years, smart fibres have seen tremendous growth, especially in terms of research funding and development of start-ups. However, succeeding in reaching the consumer market are a very few products. Indeed, one of the main challenges remains the lack of standardised test methods to evaluate properties and performance of smart fibres. In this review paper, we will talk about the history, applications, future readiness of smart fibres. Smart textiles synonymously known as electronic textiles, e-textiles, intelligent textiles, and alike is a class of materials, where textiles play a vital role but where functionalities from other disciplines are added. In technical textile area significant progresses have been achieved in last few years. There are many separate and distinct fields of science and engineering. Considerable movement and convergence has takes place between these fields of endeavour and results have been astonishing. One of these results is Smart technology for materials and structures. Smart textiles are one of the exciting new frontier technologies in engineering and manufacturing. Due advantages in many technologies coupled with advances in textile materials and structures smart fibres are possible. Biotechnology, information technology, microelectronics, wearable computers, nanotechnology and micro electromechanical machine are included in partial list. There are three categories in which smart fibres are classified according to their function. Results in an outcome named as smart textiles are the amalgamation of electronic components and advanced fibres with manmade textiles extend the field of material science and digital electronics. Often even before we do the world of fashion knows what we want to wear. Be it the trending hemlines or the latest accessories, designers around the world predict and often create the future when it comes to preference. Smart fibres is one thing that has been picked up by a lot of such visionary designers. Smart fibres are created by modified textile material and miniaturised electronic devices [3].

Definition

fabrics which are defined and manufactured to include technologies that provide to the user increased funcSmart fibres and structures can be defined as matetionality. rials and structures that can sense and react to environmental conditions or stimuli , such as those from Classification mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical, magnetic Fibres can be divided into three materials according to or other sources. Smart fabrics have been defined as 26

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manner of reaction, smart passive smart, active smart and very smart materials. Sensors, actuators and controlling units are three components present in materials on which smart fibres are classified. These classifications are as follows: a)Passive smart materials Materials which can only sense to environmental conditions or stimuli are called passive smart materials. These fibres are called as first generation of smart fibres. Passive smart fabric textiles still fall short of the scope of smart fabric textile in strict sense, and should be more accurately called functional fabric textiles.

bres. c) Very smart materials The materials can sense, react and adopt themselves accordingly are called as very smart materials. They are also called as advanced smart materials or adaptive smart fabric textiles.

History

STEVE MANN is known as “the father of wearable computing”. He often refers to the abacus ring as one of the first pieces of wearable technology. There were much effort and researches on smart textiles since the mid of 1980. EU, European space agency, NASA, giant compab) Active smart materials nies and industries like Adidas and industry members The materials that can sense and react to condition are some different groups who put funds to R and D or stimuli are called as active smart fibres. These are for different end uses. Such researches are carried out also called as second generation of smart fibres. Shape by EU, European Space Agency, government agencies, memory fabric textiles are examples of active smart fi- NASA, giant companies and industries like Adidas. The

Figure 1: historical review of development of fibres 27

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aim is to initiate restructuring, strengthening and commercial developments of products of smart textiles. Around 1000 years ago, conductive threads and fabrics have been developed which are needed to construct E-textiles. At the end of 19th century, people develop and grew accustomed to electric appliances, designers and engineering. They begin to combine electricity with clothing and jewel-designing. At the museum of contemporary craft in New York City, ground breaking exhibition called body covering was held which is focused on relationship between technology and apparel. The first fully animated sweatshirt was invented by Harry Wainwright, in 1985; which consist of fibre optics leads and microprocessor.

5. Smart apparel and footwear in fashion and sport. 6. Workplace safety and manufacturing. Either directly from military R&D or from spin offs the initial application of smart fibres have come. Sensing and responding are the capabilities of smart fibres which are responsible for this application.

Application Body conformal antennas for integrated radio equipment into clothing, power and data transmission– a personal area network, flexible photovoltaic integrated into textile fabrics, physiological status monitoring to hydration and nutritional status as well as more conventional heart monitoring; smart footwear to let you know where you are and to convert and conserve energy and of course, phase change material for heating and cooling of individual. Another application is weaving of sensors into parachutes to avoid obstacles and steer parachutes or cargo load to precise location. Shape memory polymers have been applied to textiles in fibres, films and foam forms, resulting in range of high-performance fabrics and garments, especially seagoing garments. Fibre sensors, which are capable of measuring temperatures strain/stress, gas, biological species and smell, are typically smart fibres that can be directly applied to textiles. Conductive polymer-based actuators have achieved very high level of energy density. Applications of smart fibres are as follows: 1. Medical and healthcare monitoring and diagnostics 2. Sportswear and fitness monitoring (bands) 3. Consumer electronics such as smart watches, smart glasses and headsets.

Figure 2: Applications of smart fibres in military

Future At present, smart textiles are one of focus topics in multi-disciplinary research and target a great variety of applications, smart textiles is a clear priority for the future of textiles and clothing in developed countries. In recent years, with development of intelligent system, smart fibres have been widely researched. Whether for performance or aesthetic reason, the focus within textile area is on smart fabricsfrom those that change their hue to those that regulate body temperature. Smart cothes in future could have self-healing property. Smart fibres in future will monitor our health and help us to keep healthy and fit. The bras can already contain heart rate sensor. Smart textiles market has experienced tremendous growth over the past few years in sections, such as medical, healthcare, automotive and sport industries, where these textiles offer significant potential for medical and healthcare applications and make diagnosis far more accurate and quicker.

Readiness of smart fibres for market

4. Military global positioning system (GPS) trackers, Exponential growth of interest smart and interactive fibres has grown in last few years. With the gradual equipment (helmets) and wearable robots. reduction of component costs, the commercialization 28

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of many of the smart technologies becomes achievable. The demand for intelligent materials to develop electric textiles (e-textiles) and smart apparel is rapidly growing up for industrial application such as sensors, electrostatic discharge, steel corrosion, electromagnetic interference, shielding, dust free clothing, monitoring, military application and data transfer in clothing and all other field [3]. Smart textiles are not yet ready for the market at large scale, even if smart textiles are gained a certain level of maturity [5].

Figure 3: Shape memory fibres Numerous fields of applications including different trends fields in leisure and sports, some lifesavings in health care, security and military are new developing sectors captured by smart fibres. Printed electronics and energy harvesting technologies are evolving to meet the demands of new, wearable formats. A lot of work has been performed to make washable ready to market smart textile products and wash ability of smart textile has gained attention now days [5].

Risks involved in using smart fabric The obvious flip side of using smart fibres is the potential misuse of their capabilities. There is also permanent risk of unwanted or unintended body surveillance and the erosion of any remaining sense of privacy. One of challenges for manufacturing of smart fabric is achieving seamless and invisible integration of electronic into fabric. Consequently, researchers need to provide fibres with desired electronic functionality without compromising strength, comfort and aesthetic apparel [4]. This technology gives uncomforted sensing of the wearer, and a major challenge in wearable comput29

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ing is how to interconnect these components with soft textile, and find alternatives to silicon, metal, and components with difficult to integrate them in textile. However, the disadvantage of this kind of textile is that the electric component must be removed before washing and it cannot be washed with an electric machine, and so expensive. Both the textile and electronics field should be compliant with requirement by commercial smart textiles.

Conclusion Advanced material, polymers, micro-electronics, computers and information technology are the areas in which number of researches and development are conducting. These researches are done to develop and advancement of new materials and better communication. Textiles are also changing day by day. There are lots of developments which include lots of applications, which make the life easy and healthy. These products are lifesaving, have protective clothing and importance for medical and healthcare.

References 1. Ana M Grancaric, I. j. (2018): Conductive Polymers for Smart Textile Application, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 612-642. 2. Asis Patnaiik, S. P. (2020): Fibres to Smart Textiles . CRC Press. 3. Meinander, H. (2014): Smart and Intelligent Textiles and Fibres, Textiles in Sports , 120-133. 4. S. Lam Po Tang, G. S. (2006): An Overview of Smart Technologies for Clothing Design and Engineering. 5. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology . 6. SU Zaman, X. T. (2018): Market Readiness of Smart Textile Structures--Reliability and Washability, Material Science and Engineering. 7. Tang, S. L. (n.d.). 8. Tao, X.-M. (2001): Smart Fibres, Fabrics and Clothing: Fundamentals and Application, Woodhead Publishing Limited.


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MMF & Technical Textiles

Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF By Munish Tyagi

Global Textile Leader and Int`l Consultant to Technical Textiles /Nonwovens

With 3rd highest and competitive availability of synthetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Textiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to US$ 27 billion by 2026.

S

hift to growing production of Technical The current level of Technical Textiles industry Textiles in India

With reduced post covid retail demand for wearable textiles and apparels, and with increased availability of MMF and synthetic fibres of all types and including the recycled MMF fibres; there is increasing and expanding interest in nonwoven and technical textiles which will lead the global T&C demand at average 7-8 % per annum vis a vis existing growth of 4-4.5% Cotton and its erratic and unyielding prices continue to play havoc for exports of value adding textiles and apparels from many developing countries. With MMF fibres share touching 30-35% in developed economies, It’s the right time for their further growth and consumption vis a vis cotton textiles.

The global size of the technical textiles and nonwovens industry and its trade is presently at level of US$260 to 275 billion with a growth of 8%CAGR; which is almost double the growth rate of normal T&C sector at 4 to 4.5%. India’s share. In this fast growing and key textile sector is presently minimal at a total of US$ 20 billion turnover, which is less than 1% of the global size. This is not helping India upgrade its global supplier status. China yet remains the leader, closely followed by Europe, and will be the main engine for driving India s MMF fibre consumption.

With 3rd highest and competitive availability of synthetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, With this New paradigm shift and present-day scenar- nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in io, this edition of Global Outlook focuses on India s fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Texplanned initiatives to ramp up technical textile produc- tiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to tion and end use and also the exports to slot India once US$ 27 billion by 2026. again amid top 3 global producers. The Key drivers of this growth will be the new and in31

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the fibre production centres and seaports. creased focus on production of speciality industrial textiles to be end-used in hi-growth and strategic sec- India’s competitive advantages v/s global tors like the medical textiles, geotechnical textiles, competitions Aerospace and high-altitude end use where India is very upbeat, the Indian Defence and civil infrastructure segments for creating high speed rail network, new ports, new airports and tunnels and road in high altitude areas like Kashmir, Ladakh and North East and also including a string of new highways, etc. It is now further endorsed that, with double the `demand `growth rate versus the traditional T&C textiles, the global textile recovery post Covid is to be led by this new industrial textile sector led by increased availability of MMF and synthetic fibres/filaments and growing industrial use of `speciality` and advanced materials based on new age fibres like Carbon, Aramide, Ceramic and glass fibre, etc. INDIA’s 4 Aces, that is 4 most impactful new policies to help drive the production and use of technical textiles. The Indian Government is now ready to provide to the textile industry with its 4 new aces which will be the key engines of growth for technical textile sector, as also for pushing India’s global T&C share:

To be able to enhance India’s textile sector size to US$100 billion plus by 2024, and slot itself with average of 8% share in global T&C/Tech textiles trade, India has to emerge as leading China +1 global supplier and lead from front using the competitive advantages such as; Availability and access to all key raw materials and MMF fibres, 2. However, India has to make a strong thrust into develop and production of speciality fibres like carbon fibres, Aramides, ceramic, glass and other fibres with special focus on high tech textile end uses that are based on `sustainability` and green issues. 3. India does have the advantage of competitive wages, and yet needs to scale up for the production and new markets.

India yet needs to address the deficiency and critical gaps areas below

India needs to actively pursue free-trade agreements (FTAs) with major export destinations like the EU ,and the US to push apparel shipments amid increasing a. The TTDS scheme, with an outlay of Rs. 160,000 competition from fast growing rivals like Vietnam, million is being launched to replace the 25-year- Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, and Cambodia that enjoy old TUF scheme for incentivising the new invest- tariff concessions, under liberal duty free trade agreement in textile sector. However, the focus will be ments like GSP+ and TPT 11 and others. advanced technology and such indigenous maIndia has traditionally enjoyed a comparative advanchinery development capabilities. tage in the cotton-based textile sector, including apb. The NTTM scheme [that’s is National Technical parels, and they constitute a major chunk of India’s Textiles Mission spearheaded by Textile Ministry/ export basket. However, India’s shift to MMF textiles GOI] scheme, is being continued with a budget of now has to be immediate and a serious call to enhance Rs.10,000 million for the textile industry to venture its share in the global T&C trade to more than 5% and into high tech projects in technical textiles arena. also to take its rightful place as China+1. c. The PLI or the production linked scheme is anothNew Textile Projects _3 Nos export oriented er new mega investment scheme to rope in large corporate and global investors into textile industry. Project Title Project Capacity The PLI scheme will bring in large output produc- Project No. tion and with focus on both MMF fibre use and 1 Export focussed YARN SPG Approx..20 TPD manufacturing of technical textiles. Already more MILLS,OF 25 K spdls,for BCI/ than 70 serious applications and project Intents Organic yarns,for Knttg &wvg have been registered. 2 Cotton Yarn Mill with Ring and 15 to 20 TPd. The launch of the MITRA scheme for development and operations of large size or mega Textile Parks to attract large global investment into such world class `play n plug` manufacturing zones in different corners of the country and ideally placed close to 32

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Double Mask

Mask, Protect it! Nur Hani Aqilah Binti Salehin & Thomas P.S. Ong Nano Textile Sdn Bhd. Email: hani@nanotextileinnovation.com

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et us see what 2022 will start with. One obvious thing to be sure of is wearing a mask. Malaysians are still masking either in open places or fully vaccinated and obviously in crowded places too. Since the Delta and Omicron virus has spread out through the entire country, masking is necessary while double masking has been one step ahead for more protection.

without hesitation and compulsion, we as Malaysians began to take precautionary measures by wearing a double face mask anywhere whether on the train, in the mall, or in the cinema.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) undertook much research in January 2021 to improve mask function and reduce COVID-19 transmission. It was determined that ‘double-masking,’ or knotting the Double mask as a new way of life! ear loops of a 3-ply mask and adjusting it to fit snugly to “In high-risk environments such as hospitals, it is recthe face, can give more protection for the mask-wearer ommended that you wear a double face mask and a and those around them. face shield” Since there are many types of face masks that have “There is no need for a double face mask in public arbeen designed such as N95 mask protection, KN95, eas, but it is obligatory to wear a face mask,” said MaKF94, surgical mask, 3-ply disposable mask, fabric laysian Health Director-General Tan Sri Dr Noor Hishmask, etc, there are some people who perform double am Abdullah. He recommended Malaysians take extra masking incorrectly. Some may just double the 3-ply precautions when visiting high-risk public places such mask, while others may double the KF94 mask, resultas hospitals as at the moment, the infection caused ing in an 8-ply mask that makes breathing difficult and by the Omicron variant of the coronavirus is rapidly highly discouraged. spreading throughout the world. This variant is wellknown for its high transmissibility rate, but it is not as The method of double masking is simple, it involves severe as its ancestor, the Delta variant. Nevertheless, putting two different and correct combination types of

Source: https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/70/wr/mm7007e1.htm?s_cid=mm7007e1_w

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face masks on your face. The CDC recommends a 3-ply disposable or surgical face mask with a cloth mask. When double masking, it is critical to ensure that the masks fit exactly against the sides of the face so have no holes for air to flow inside and out.

reduce the danger of transferring bacteria and viruses into your hands when adjusting it. However, it is important to note that antibacterial face masks cannot destroy the COVID-19 virus, as there is no study to support this claim.

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Can you picture doubling your masking while also tripling your protection? It has provided you with additional protection against bacteria and some types of viruses. Choosing a cloth mask with antibacterial properties will provide further protection. Antibacterial characteristics are all the rage these days, and their incorporation into clothes and Muslimah dress has taken it to the next level, particularly in Malaysia. Unfortunately, one of the most common questions from buyers before purchasing a product is, “How can we know if this product is antibacterial?” Yes, people will not buy the product if they’re unsure. But there will be no loyal customer when there is no first buyer. Hence, at the end of the day, they will buy it with the conviction of the founder or other buyer. This concern has been appearing in antibacterial face mask. But, if people consider on the benefit, truly they will purchase it. One advantage of antibacterial face masks is that they operate as a silent defender. Whether it is a cloth mask or a disposable mask, it helps to 35

TVC | APRIL 2022

https://www.nanotextileinnovation.com/covid-19how-antibacterial-textile-guide-you-through-the-darkness/ There are many brands in Malaysia that started to sell the antibacterial face mask mainly for cloth mask, such as Three Little Ahmads, CalaQisya, TudungPeople and for disposable face mask, Yukazan is one of the antibacterial face mask producers.

How to clean an antibacterial face mask? The face mask with antibacterial characteristics on the inside may be washed as usual. If you buy an antimicrobial disposable face mask, simply fold the outside corners together and toss it in the trash. If, on the other hand, you purchase an antibacterial fabric mask, you should gentle wash it in room temperature water with a standard grade detergent. However, the fabric mask can also be hand-washed but without chlorine bleach, and the face mask can be dried by hanging damp from a line or bar.


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SETU - Industry Project

SETU: Mission & Goals TVC Editorial Team

Abstract

The Vision of SETU is to contribute in making the Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all engineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all engineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. Keywords: SETU, CII, FICCI, NDIM, SOP, CEFC

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ETU known as Science, Engineering and Technological Upliftment Foundation. A Section 8 Company (Not for Profit Organisation) incorporated under the Companies Act, 2013. Website: www.setufoundation.co.in. SETU Foundation is an SPV developed by Surat Engineering Vikas Association (SEVA), Surat Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (l) (TMMA), Mumbai along with support of Department of Heavy Industries (DHI), Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises, Government of India, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society’ (SVPES), Bardoli. The Origin of SETU goes back to an organisation called SEPA – Surat Engineering Professionals Association, founded in 1996, with the purpose to engage Engineering Professionals into continuous learning and technological updating. The deliberations resulted in the formation of SEVA – Surat Engineering Vikas Association registered Trust in 2008, with the aim of helping Engineering industries adopt new technologies and skill development of its workforce. While all the leaders of these organisations were also well connected and associated with many other pro37

TVC | APRIL 2022

fessional and business organisations like Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry, All India Electric Motor Manufacturers Association, Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association of India, All India Lift Upliftment Federation, CII, FICCI, etc., their critical observations and interactions with members of industry and academia made them realise that Indian Engineering Industry lacks global competitiveness due to outdated technologies, unreasonable imports and unsynchronised employee skill development. Members of the industry also expressed concern of huge costs to invest in latest working machinery. This led to a vision to establish a Common Engineering Facility Centre. However, to authenticate the dream and the need, an organised Survey was carried out covering 600 + varied engineering industries. The result was very promising and SEVA took the initiative to establish Science, Engineering and Technological Upliftment Foundation (SETU) in 2016 with the support of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association of India. The Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society joined this initiative by donating 2.56 acer land to es-


tablish the Common Engineering Facility Centre. Thus, one organisation after other, led by technocrats, developed SETU Foundation with the solitary vision of making Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive.

1.1. The Approach We intend to achieve the objectives by becoming a One Point Service Provider to MSMEs & Heavy Industries through: A Common Engineering Facility Centre (CEFC) equipped with world class machineries with latest technology; Strategic tie-ups with Technocrats, Design Software suppliers, Academic Institutes GovDelhi ernment departments, Business Associations and related interests. 5. Sopan Infotech -Design Centre

2. Methodology

6. SEVA MoU with NID/NSIC/MSMEDI/etc.

2.1. Setu Activity Verticals

7. Various Engineering Colleges

SETU intends to achieve the Objectives by establishing/ undertaking activities under the following verticals:

8. Industry & Professional Bodies

1. Product/Prototype Development Centre 2. Design Centre 3. Skill Development Centre 4. Testing & Calibration Centre 5. Heat Treatment Centre

2.2. Common engineering facility centre Facilities Planned: 1. World Class Engineering Workshop

2.4. Professional Approach SETU Foundation has been established to become a fully professional organisation. To ensure that it becomes a System Driven Organisation, we have established the following SOPs: 1. Administration SOP 2. Human Resource Management SOP 3. Accounts & Records Keeping SOP 4. Procurement SOP

3. Product Exhibition Gallery

We are now in the process of formulating Policies & Guidelines for development of activities under each vertical.

4. Testing & Calibration Centre

Conclusion

2.3. Strategic tie-ups

SETU is a social enterprise. The goal is to facilitate Industry and academia, not to generate much financial profit. We intend to provide a platform to raise the standards of the industry and make it globally competitive. The CEFC is a big step in the direction and is expected to benefit MSEs to utilise the facility and ensure quality products at competitive prices.

2. Training & Conference Facility

MoUs with: 1. Surati iLab (Surat intellectual and innovation Laboratory), Surat Municipal Corporation 2. MBI –South Korea

3. IPFC (Intellectual Property Facilitation Centre), However, more than the financial gain, focus has been Ahmedabad laid on the benefit to academia, industry, and the na4. NDIM, (New Delhi Institute of Management) New tion. The nation will be benefited by better productiv38

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ity, better employability, better quality products, enhanced exports, and less dependence on imports, and will be proud to be one of the most technologically advanced nations. To become a true superpower, India needs an impactful paradigm shift in upgrading technologies, upgrading skills, upgrading efficiencies and upgrading mindset. SETU aims to take a lead in this process and the CEFC is one of its tools to do so. We need wholehearted support from various stakeholders in this massive endeavour, thus fulfilling our collective Corporate Social Responsibility and Individual Social Responsibility.

ence, mathematics, engineering, and technology. Vol. 1. National Science Foundation, Division of Undergraduate Education, 1996. 2) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022. 3) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022.

References

4) Atkins, Daniel Ewell: Revolutionising science and engineering through cyberinfrastructure: Report of the National Science Foundation blue-ribbon advisory panel on cyberinfrastructure. National Science Foundation, 2003.

5) Monyooe, Lebusa, and Steve Ledwaba: “Information 1) National Science Foundation (US): Directorate for and Communication Technologies for Women EmpowEducation, and Human Resources. Shaping the future: erment: South Africa’s Unfinished Agenda,” InstrucNew expectations for undergraduate education in sci- tional Technology (2004). 39

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Knitting in Surat

LATEST TREND IN KNITTING INDUSTRY IN SURAT TVC Editorial Team

Towards the end of the seventeenth century, Surat began to decine as the trade capital by virtue of many reasons like the defeat of the Mughal Empire and lack of business areas and proficiency, control over the sea courses by the Portuguese and challenge from Bombay (present day Mumbai) from the East India Company. But in the 21st century Surat has emerged as a key weaving area with the annual turnover of twist weaving area in the city fixed at Rs1,000 crore.

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urat, an emerging and growing city in the province of Gujarat, is known as the material city of Gujarat. The warp knitting sector is the country’s biggest man-made-fibres (MMF) focus in the city. As per recent figures, textile production in Surat has grown by 10% in the last 5 years, while the market for embroidery has grown from an almost negligible amount to around Rs. 30000 million over the same period. Regardless of being new for the Surat market, the city is now known for knitting and weaving industry. Today, Surat has in excess of 300 twist sewing machines and another 100 are currently under establishment. Surat has already stabilised machine in knitting industry as Circular knitting matching, Warp knitting machine, Raschel Machine n which production range is 4500 tons per month, 6400 tons per month, 1500 tons per month, respectively. The pattern is not restricted to greater players, and, surprisingly, the little and medium players are likewise putting resources into twist sewing machines, however quite possibly a couple of 43

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machines. While the homegrown market is essentially utilising twist sewn textures in kidswear and women articles of clothing, the worldwide business sectors are getting for athletic apparel, underwear and specialised


materials.

the preferences of people.

Almost 30 million meters of fabrics of crude texture and 25 million meters of handled texture are delivered in Surat every day. The city has a few materials business sectors that exist since days of yore. Zampa Bazaar, Bombay Market, JJ Textile Market and Jash Market are among them. Katat Gam, Magdalla and Udhana are the areas of Surat where assembling is for the most part done. Over time, individuals from different spots like Rajasthan and Kolkata got comfortable in Surat to do their material business.

The industrialists here have strong entrepreneurial skills. Most of the traders have a fixed group of clients, with whom they trade. Most of the business is done on a credit basis. According to the Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association, the industry suffered a loss of Rs. 200 crore in 2004-05 on account of malpractices. The industry suffered a huge loss in the floods of 2006 as well. Around 40,000 textile shops were damaged in Surat in these floods and the total loss was reported to be at Rs.10 crore per day. However, the city has always been quick to rise from these setbacks.

The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. One of the main reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends. Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sportswear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers and mattresses Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports- along with technical textiles like automobile filtration, wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers, and mattresses lining and pocketing mesh. Most of the units in Surat along with technical textiles The Surat textile industry and elsewhere manufacture better quality products has grown considerably over time. One of the main than China. reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends. The city is quick to respond to any changes in

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interview - Gimatex

“Gimatex ALWAYS FOCUSES ON COTTON VALUE ADDITION” TVC Editorial Team

Gimatex replied to a TVC Questionnaire. Excerpts: Mohota Group has a glorious history of over 125 years in the textile industry. Tell us about some of the important highlights, achievements, milestones during this journey. The Graph below tells you the story so far…..

[From Left to Right: Vineet Kumar Mohota – Director (Finance), Basant Kumar Mohota – Chairman, Prashant Kumar Mohota – MD, Anurag Kumar Mohota – Director (Works)]

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sion with which all the family members have served

According to you, how has the industry imthe company has led to the 6th generation of the Moproved over the last few decades? Over the years we see that industry has significantly improved in terms of efficiency in its processes innovations for the products and delivering a cause effective and sustainable product solution for deserving customers. Huge improvement has taken place in terms of finishes in various fabrics so that it can sustain and last for longer use and as per the product application. Technology has improved significantly where we see machines talking to the computers and all kinds of data availability for making quick and improved decision making.

hota family to continue in the same business.

Gimatex has always focused on value addition in the cotton sector. By launching Minus One Gimatex has completed an integration from Cotton Fibres to Fashion segment and added tremendous value to the cotton lifecycle. Moreover, by using only Vidharbha cotton in their products, Gimatex is supporting the local farmers and alleviating the difficulties faced by them in recent times. Previously, Gimatex had installed a scientific cotton seed processing unit to add value to the Cotton chain, and with Minus One they have extended this philosophy further.

How did you celebrate 125 years of Mohota On this important occasion, Gimatex has made a comGroup and 25 years of Gimatex? What is the mitment of contributing Rs. 25 per pc sale of Minus One future course for the company? On 25th of March, 2022, Gimatex celebrated its 25th anniversary and 125 years of textile history of the Mohota group. On this momentous occasion, Gimatex inaugurated its new manufacturing facilities, namely the 10 TPD Open End Unit at Wani and the 25 TPD Spinning Unit at Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park. Furthermore, Gimatex also launched its Premium e-commerce Apparel brand ‘Minus One’ in the same event.

Apparel & Rs. 100 per Quintal sale on GIMA WHITEGOLD Cotton Seed Refined Oil. This contribution will be used for welfare of the cotton farming community.

Additionally, to mark the celebrations of the milestone year, Gimatex has taken over the maintenance and upkeep of the main squares, fountains and decorative lightings of Hinganghat Town, from Subhash Chowk to Tukdoji Chow. They also felicitated 18 staff members who have served them for more than 35 years in a Various dgnitaries from across India and abroad graced short programme at their Club House. the occasion. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Chairman Gimatex has always received great support from the of Lakshmi Machine Works was the Chief Guest and Mr. Ajay Arora, MD of D’Decor, was the guests of Honour. Other prominent personalities included Kishanji Poddar (Siyarams), Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu (MD, Toyota), Pankaj Sarda (Jt. MD, Sarda Energy & Minerals), Manish Kumar, Mr. Anil Jain, Mr. Aditya Jain and Mr. Masayuki Yamamoto among many others. It is pertinent to note that, Gimatex’s first manufacturing facility in Wani started operations in 1997 and has entered a period of constant expansions and rapid growth. The new Open End Unit at Wani adds yarn manufacturing capability to manufacture recycled fibre based fabrics. At Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park, the new spinning facility adds further 32,000 spindles to their existing capacity of 1,68,000 spindles. Combined, these new units also contribute to tremendous employment in the local region to the tune of additional 500 people. The dedication, integrity and pas47

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local community. Through their development activities, they have always focused on the growth of the local areas and will continue to do so in future. As they mark their special occasion in 2022, Gimatex wishes that we continue to stand with them on their onward


journey. Sabka Saath, sabka vikaas!

Any expansion, diversification plans?

Cotton and cotton yarn prices and market have been in a flux for many months now. How has it been for Gimatex? How have you managed to keep margins and supplies intact in this situation? Your advice to the industry?

Recent investment - Bela Unit for spinning 32000 Spindles for Viscose & Cotton Compact yarns, Wani Unit - Open end Unit for making PC & Cotton Coarse count yarns (7 to 20ne), Processing Unit Ahmedabad, Dholka - Soft Flow machines for processing of Viscose based fabrics. Upgradation of ETP to ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge) setup, along with MEE & Sludge dryer.

Yes, the prices have skyrocketed in the last one and half year particularly more so after the Corona Pandemic, it has been very complicated for spinners if we consider Upcoming expansion - New 32,000 Spindles & new airtoday’s cotton price we do not find any margin in terms jet looms 120 and weaving preparatory of Yarn spinning for the reason that costs have signifiHow do you expect the Russia-Ukraine conflict cantly gone up in terms of labour, power as well as cost of all other inputs. Yes, we have been able to keep our margins only because of the right timing of fibre purchase and ensuring that quality cotton is acquired through our ginning operations. A much-used statement – Weaving and processing are

to impact the Indian and international textile industry? How are you preparing to safeguard your interests? Advice to the industry? I am yet to exactly understand how this will impact but given the current scenario it seems that this war is gothe weak links in the Indian textile industry. Your views, ing to last pretty long and it will definitely affect the given that you are an integrated textile manufacturer. consumer interest in European countries; therefore I Yes, definitely the downstream processes like weaving believe India’s exports to Europe will definitely get af/ knitting and their processing as well as apparels re- fected in short term as well as long term. main to be the weak links in the Indian textile industry. Yeah, my advice to the industry in the current scenario If we see besides us ie Bangladesh, we see that they would only be to ensure that the customer base exhave really developed themselves in terms of garment pands from European Nations to other alternatives like manufacturing which is ensuring a pull for the backSouth American and far Eastern countries as well so ward processes starting from spinning and therefore that we are able to hedge our rest in case Europe or the country is self-sufficient in itself in catering or exsome Western countries try to sanction India for taking panding in textile operations in time to come. In India a neutral stand on Russian Ukraine conflict. You should now with the aid of PLI and many other incentives also try and ensure that whatever market is being crescheme like RODTEP, ROSTCL, we see some shift hapated because of China plus one policy is also garnered pening towards large scale manufacturer coming in the by Indian operations or Indian products. field of garmenting where we need corporate entities to make an efficient garment operation. 48

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Corporate profile

Gimatex, IN SILVER JUBILEE YEAR, READY TO SPIN MORE SUCCESSES TVC Editorial Team

It was a small beginning for Gimatex in 1997 with 25,000 spindles, and today with a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore, Gimatex’s integrated units are ready to spread wings with new projects and products on all its fronts.

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day Gimatex is a totally integrated unit with Ginning, Spinning, Weaving and Processing units under its roof. Their plants are situated in the core of cotton developing belt of India which guarantees more limited lead times and quality choice of its natural materials. The organisation has already expanded into the area of scientific cotton-seed processing by setting up a first March 25, 2022 was a grand day for Gimatex with the Gossypol free cotton seed protein feast plant alongside inauguration of new plants and launching of new prod- a coordinated cotton oil treatment facility. The compaucts. And it was at the presence of the chief guest, Mr. ny’s authorised capital stands at Rs 1500 lakh and has Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD of Lakshmi Machine 75.0% paid-up capital which is Rs 1125 lakh. Tools and Guest of Honour Mr. Ajay Arora apart from Mr. Ajay Arora was welcomed by Mr. B. K. Mohota. a crowd of its workforce, total of which today counts Mr. Ajay Arora said he has noticed the energies and ento 5000. thusiasm in the Mohota family and their labour force imatex Industries Pvt Ltd celebrated 25 years of its existence recently at its plants near Nagpur with grandeur and pomp. The company, which is engaged in the manufacturing of cotton yarn, blended yarn, fabrics and cotton seeds oil, has come a long way, its journey marked with great achievements and landmarks.

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. was established in 1993 and was earlier known as Rai Saheb Rekhchand Mohota Spinning & Weaving Mills Limited (RSR). After the realignment of family ownership structure in 2005, the new entity of GitmaTex came into being. The company has five manufacturing facilities, with four located at Hinganghat, Yerla, Wani & Bela near Nagpur and one in Ahmedabad. Gimatex is not only one among the oldest and most successful companies in the textile industry in India but has a remarkable growth potential. Gimatex’s triumphs are on many fronts. It recorded a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore in 2021-2022. To49

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to carry on the heritage for an additional 125 years with the equivalent energy and excitement. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu stated that the progress of the Mohota family in the unpredictable material business has been on account of its discipline, central and long haul vision. Mr. B. K. Mohota in his invite address expressed that since its beginning Gimatex has the track on a steady extension and fast development way. Expressing that the material business overall and Gimatex in particular is going through a brilliant time, Mr. Mohota informed that from a turnover of Rs. 70 crore in 1997, Gimatex went on to clock Rs. 1650 crore turnover in the 2021-2022 financial year.


Mr. Prashant Mohota stated that the general vision of Gimatex is to give premium quality items to its insightful clients by utilising most recent logical innovations with the most aggressive way at all conceivable time. Giving details of the two new plants, Mr. Prashant Mohota informed that Gimatex has set-up another 32,000 axle turning unit having conservative cotton yarns and its mixes (particularly cellulose) with addition of one more 32000 shaft unit for polyester blends. The subsequent plant is the new Open-End Unit with most recent in material innovation with a capacity to utilise reused strands with the most elevated level of pollution control, he informed. Dwelling upon the creation limits of the Gimatex, Mr. Prashant Mohota informed that the turning limit is 2 lakh axles with a 3000 tons limit for every month. Stating that Gimatex has continuously been on a development binge, Mr. Vineet Mohota informed that the capital speculation during the 2022 has been reserved at Rs. 820 crore. The 2022-2023 turnover is projected at Rs. 1850 crore containing Rs. 600 crore of products and equilibrium Rs. 1250 crore of homegrown deals, he said. Mr. Anurag Mohota said foraying into clothing area has satisfied the Gimatex vision of serving the whole store network from ‘Homestead to Fashion’.

Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric processing centre i.e. Ahmedabad, Gimatex Processing unit houses modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fabric for Printing and Dyeing.

in the country. Its machinery profile tops all brands: Blow Room – LMW & Trutzschler with Automatic Bale Plucker, Unimix, CVT; Contamination Detector – Uster Securomat SP-S; Carding – LMW LC 300 A, LC 333 & Trutzschler DK 800; Drawing – LMW RSB 851 & Rieter RSB D-35; Combing – LMW LK 250, LK 54 & Rieter E65; Sizing / Warping – Benninger Direct & Sectional Warping Machine, Benninger Sizing Machine; Humidification – Luwa; Looms – Toyota Airjet JAT710, Picanol Omni Plus (with quick style change) – 125. Gimatex has been a leading supplier of woven textile fabrics for various industrial and consumer use. The huge capacity and advantage of in-house spinning makes sure that the cost and quality advantages are transferred to the customer with on-time deliveries. Its quality policy is to consistently meet or exceed its customer’s expectation for quality product & performance by continual improvement of processes & systems. The group has carved a niche for itself by investing in lean manufacturing processes appropriate information technology tools & operation research tools. Further, state-of-the-art manufacturing facility and quality monitoring system ensures the delivery of superior total value to the customer. Its quality assurance personnel are well qualified & experienced in quality control and are devoted all the time for collecting & analysing data from online and offline quality monitoring system.

Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric processing centre i.e. Ahmedabad, Gimatex Processing unit houses modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fabric for Printing and Dyeing. Variety of fabrics like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester and their blends, for making Dress material, Suitings, Shirtings, Bed Sheets, etc. to cater demands of Indian as well as export markets. It is also equipped with fully modGimatex has primarily a large spinning capacity catering ern Chemical Laboratory with testing equipment like to the variety of needs of the customers. Starting from Computerized Colour matching, Tensile Strength Tes25000 spindles in the year 1996, today the company ter, Tearing Strength Tester, Laundrometer for washhas more than 100,000 spindles with utmost modern ing, crock meter, sublimation fastness tester. Baby pad production and testing facilities which delivers supe- batch dyeing machine, Sample Rotary Printing Marior total value to the customer. The state-of-the-art chine, Colour Cabinet etc. machines have been imported from Switzerland, Germany, Japan etc. and is managed by top technocrats 50

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The Oldest – The Most Experienced – Most Dependable- For Any Yarn, Ay Loom, Any Width

Amritlakshmi Brand stands for its consistency & selfresearching, Designing, and Manufacturing, Selling and After-Sale Service all under one roof with experts capable of prompt Service to each Customer through an excellent network of Agents. With Amritlakshmi You are Always Ahead!! Range of Products ◘ Direct Warper with Creel for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC, Jute) ◘ Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC Jute) ◘ PLC Controlled 7-9 Motors, Inverter Driven Double Sow Box Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for High Speed Shuttle less Loom & for Varieties of Yarn. ◘ Warping, Sizing & Beaming Systems Either 2 Tier (Creel to Beam System) 3 Tier (Beam to Beam System) for Continuous Filament Yarn – Polyester /Nylon / Viscose ◘ Pre-Beaming (Warping) for Jute Yarn

◘ Dressing Machine (Sizing) for Jute Yarn

◘ Direct Beaming from Creel for Industrial Yarn fabric/Carpet/ Jute/Flex/PP/ Nylon Yarn/ Size Chemical Preparation Plant for Sizing. Plot no. 244/25, Sajitha Complex, GIDC, Umbergaon-396171 +91 - 80800 62392 amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com 51 TVC | APRIL 2022 www.amritlakshmi.in


Interview- Usha International

USHA INTERNATIONAL IS INCREASING FOOTPRINT IN EAST: P.K. SAHNI Usha has been the market leader in the sewing machine category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and growth of the sewing machine industry. This enduring leadership position has been possible because of the company’s ability to constantly innovate, anticipate, and even create consumer demand, said Mr. Parveen Kumarr Sahni, President, Sewing Machines Business, Usha International, in an exclusive interview with the Textile Value Chain.

Excerpts:

their homes. All of these saw a huge surge in the DoIt-Yourself/hobby culture, giving an impetus to sewing How did COVID-19 impact the business of machine sales. Being the pioneers of the sewing mayour company in the last two years? How did chine in India, Usha realised the need of the hour – it manage? to tutor and guide those keen on learning and honing While COVID-19 had an adverse impact on many busi- their sewing skills not only on how to choose the sewnesses, for the sewing machine category it proved to ing machine that would cater to their needs but also be the opposite. As consumers looked to cope with how the machine works. the ‘new normal’, they invested in creative hobbies The wide range of sewing machines Usha offer caters and passions that brought joy to them as they stayed to the varying needs across new as well as experienced cooped in homes shuffling between household chores hobbyists – from the basic to the really high-end – and office work. One of the hobbies that gained favour each of which is user-friendly and enables the customduring the pandemic-driven lockdowns was sewing, er to take their skills up many notches. Usha offers free not just for functional purposes but also as a means online ‘Learn & Create’ sewing tutorial videos on Ushof creative DIY – another trend that really saw increasaSew.com, which are easy-to-follow extensive step-bying popularity during this period. For countless people step demos for all consumers. across India, sewing became an enjoyable hobby, a pleasant way to explore one’s creative potential that The pandemic also opened up another business vertialso kept stress and anxiety at bay. In fact, many turned cal to the sewing industry -- textile factories across the this passion into a viable business while confined to country began to also cater to the demand for a com52

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pletely new category of products -- masks and PPE kits. The sewing machine industry in India has seen a renaisAll of these led to an upward growth curve for house- sance of sorts in the last few decades with consumers holds as well as industrial sewing machines. rediscovering sewing as a hobby. With the evolution of What are the new launches in sewing ma- the sewing machine from the manual black machines of the yore, today, we have a slew of high-tech autochines? What is their USP? mated sewing machines catering to the varied needs At Usha International, we keep consumers at the core of the consumers from the simple to the complex. of our business – developing products that help fulfil their needs/aspirations thus transforming their lives. This perception of sewing has undergone a transforOur aim is straightforward – to be the best at what mation and the new age machines have set off a rewe do to build the category as well as the industry as vival of sewing as a life-skill, an art, a creative hobby, we offer products that combine the latest innovation and a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) trend. For Usha Internationin design, technology, and performance. Listening to al, which has been the pioneer and market leader in consumer feedback and insights and their evolving the sewing machines industry in India for decades, the preferences, Usha International has launched a slew growth has majorly come from developing products of innovative, technologically advanced user-friendly that cater to the needs of ever-evolving consumers. sewing machines in the last couple of years each cater- We are constantly learning from what customers tell ing to a specific audience – Quilt Magic, Design Craft, us, aspirational trends, and therefore offering products Sew Magic, MC 8200 QCP SE, Style Stitch, and Mys- that further grow this market. New products are detique and Usha Memory Craft Skyline S-9 with Artistic signed keeping in mind explicit needs to enable sewing Digitizer and Memory Craft 9850, Usha 6700P, Usha enthusiasts to do more i.e. stitching, embroidery, and quilting. Memory Craft 550E. These machines cater to the needs of growing num- In fact, we witnessed a healthy growth of approximatebers across hobbyists and commercial establishments ly 15% in our sewing machines business in 2020-21 and across the country, offering a range of technological- grew substantially in the Automatic Zig Zag (white maly superior features to up the ante for serious sew- chines) category, gaining over 65% market share in this ists, who want both precision control and perfection. category in FY 20-21. As consumers continue to evolve, Equipped with Japanese technology, each of these our focus is to offer better and more evolved products machines is extremely user-friendly making it easy for and engage with our consumers by creating a 360* eco-system that offers them help in selecting the right consumers to take their creativity to the next level. machine for themselves, as well as teaching sewing Additionally, all the new embroidery machines from skills through innovative platforms and associations. Usha come with the Artistic Digitizer, a user-friendly embroidery designing software that is compatible with Target markets and how much growth is conboth Windows and iOS, simplifying digitization of im- tributed from the specific market? ages, and enabling specialised embroidery like Stipple As a brand, Usha International caters to audiences fill, Net fill, Array fill, and Monogramming. These ma- across India, agnostic of age, gender, and geography. chines also allow free-motion embroidery for all tex- We offer machines suitable for kids as young as 8 years, tile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings, and all the way up to senior citizens in their 70s – basically, more. It’s the ultimate tool in the hands of the right everyone who wants to learn, grow, create, and furuser, to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary, ther their passion for sewing. using creativity and skill. Demography-wise, we have a very loyal and strong

Give us details of the evolution of the sewing customer base both in rural and urban markets across machines industry in India – growth, trends, the country. Going by recent trends that we have witnessed, people in the southern region are more inand forecast. 53

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clined towards pursuing sewing and quilting as a hobby, which is closely followed by the West and North markets. A key point to note here is that the North and West markets are currently emerging and growing at a faster pace and are expected to become very big in the coming years. Besides these new markets, we have also seen a growing demand in the East where we are increasing our footprint by holding product demos and localised promotions to engage closely with our customers. Sales in semi-urban and rural areas are thriving, and urban centres such as Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata are growing as expected.

How about the R&D efforts of Usha International? Usha sewing machines have enriched the lives of Indians since 1934 when the company first became operational from a factory in Kolkata. Over the past nine decades, consumer centricity has been at the core of products we make – consumer insights, feedback, market gaps, and customer needs – the brand takes all of these into consideration and has constantly tried to launch products offering the best-in-class value proposition. We have a robust R&D team in place, for the sewing machine category, that focuses on driving brand relevance by being committed to understanding customers’ evaluation criteria covering both aesthetics and performance. For us, maintaining brand relevance goes hand in hand with ensuring we continue to win the trust and loyalty of our customers. The team remains committed to building demand for sewing machines by offering easy-to-use innovative products that appeal to customers and offer the best creativity, technology, and safety. For decades now, we have had a strategic partnership with Janome Sewing Machine Co. ltd. to bring Japanese technology to India in the form of an innovative, technologically advanced range of sewing machines. These products are easy to use, allow for customised creativity, and are within the acceptable price range as proved by ever-increasing annual sales.

Usha’s strategy and outlook for sewing machines business Usha has been the market leader in the sewing machine category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and growth of the sewing machine industry. This enduring leadership position has been possible because of the company’s ability to constantly innovate, anticipate, and even create consumer demand. We have traversed the entire spectrum of the market, from urban to rural India, from the lowest to the highest, with state-of-the-art products, as well as by developing the ecosystem that provides end-to-end solutions for every kind of needs of consumers viz. product, teaching/ skilling, online tutorials as well as post-sales service. We are aggressively building the hobby and creativity market through awareness and teaching support provided through - The hab – a one-of-its-kind experiential store that provides workshops for the creative curious minds, demos and workshops, and blogs and online tutorials on our website UshaSew.com

We have a robust R&D team in place, for the sewing machine category, that focuses on driving brand relevance by being committed to understanding customers’ evaluation criteria covering both aesthetics and performance.

Additionally, amidst the pandemic, we witnessed a lot of older people going back to sewing, a skill they learned in their growing years, and many youngsters picking it up afresh. They took it up for various reasons – stress relief, recreational activity, creativity, and in many cases even as an income source. This pandemic also led to another shift in customer preference – there was a marked shift from the unorganized sector to the organized as customers were looking at the overall value offering, which bode well for our business. Given these trends, we are positive about the future outlook (Would require further inputs from Usha BU team on of the sewing market and we expect it to grow subR&D efforts). stantially in the next five years. 54

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Interview – Sanathan Textiles

SUSTAINABILITY IS AT THE HEART OF OUR EVERY MOVE: SAMMIR DATTANI TVC Editorial Team Sanathan Textiles, a global supplier of cotton yarns, polyester yarns and yarns for technical textiles, has three yarn business verticals giving the company the unique opportunity to offer a wide variety of yarns that are used by various sectors and industries, across applications and end-uses. Having a technologically advanced and environmentally conscious manufacturing setup enables us to offer customers value-added yarns, niche yarns, functional yarns and a wide range of coloured yarns.

Mr. Sammir Dattani

Mr. Paresh Dattani

Excerpts:

Promoted by the Dattani family with 100+ years of cumulative experience in the yarn industry and managed by a professional and experienced team, Sanathan Textiles is committed to its aim of providing value added innovative yarns for the fabric of our lives. Mr. Paresh Dattani is the Managing Director of the company. Mr.Sammir Dattani, Executive Director of Sanathan Textiles replied to the Textile Value Chain’s Questionnaire.

In the last 5 years we have seen the yarn business in PFY evolving a lot making it a very exciting space with Your company seems to be a leading firm in ample opportunity for innovation and value addition.

yarns. When did the journey begin and what is the progress till now? As a family we have been in the yarn business for 75 years. Over the years Sanathan textiles has expanded manufacturing into 3 yarn businesses/segments namely – polyester filament yarns (PFY), cotton yarns and yarns for technical textiles. Our key focus has been on the yarn segment of the textile chain since its the base of the entire textile eco-system. We have the opportunity to supply our products to many industries, sectors and end-uses. 56

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to keep you cool and dry. How was the functioning during the severe stages of the pandemic? • Sanathan Reviro™ - our range of GRS certified Re-cycled yarns made from waste PET bottles. Helping you make responsible choices.

Initially we were all affected due to the lock down restrictions because of COVID, but once production resumed in June 2020, things only improved every month. The demand due to China +1 factor has been very strong from customers around the world, enhancing export demand for all textile products from India.

What about the venture into technical textiles? Give us a glimpse. Started in the year 2017-2018, our division of Yarns for Technical textile & Industrial uses, has been equipped with the most advanced manufacturing setup, designed and delivered by Oerlikon Barmag Germany offering high tenacity yarns which are used for a wide variety of applications, from 600 to 6000 denier. Technical and Industrial use yarns are deemed to be the highest discipline in filament manufacturing and can pose a significant challenge for the manufacturers. However, our expert and professional team tackle these challenges to create the best technical and industrial yarns for our customers.

Above are some of our current brands. We are continuously developing innovative yarns to strengthen our product portfolio which will be in sync with the customer demands.

Other than yarns, what are the new plans for the future?

The yarn manufacturing space is going through a very Regular Shrinkage, Low Shrinkage, Super Low Shrinkexciting phase, currently our focus is completely on age, BornDyed™ Coloured Yarns for Technical Textile our yarn business and we have our hands full with the are some of our product offerings. same at the moment.

What are the brands you have developed and What is your set-up in infrastructure and R&D? what are their USPs and benefits for the usOur current plant located in DNH (Dadra and Nagar ers? Haveli) produces three yarn segments – polyester, cotWe have started marketing a lot of our value added ton & technical textiles. yarns, like performance yarns and functional yarns, under the “Sanathan” brand for better marketing, prod- It is an integrated setup providing customers a one stop shop for a wide variety of yarn requirements. uct differentiation and customer recall. Some of the branded products we currently offer are We have equipment designed and supplied by global leaders in the yarn manufacturing industry – Oerlikon mentioned below – Barmag, Reiter, LMW, TMT Japan, Aiki, Alidhra. • BornDyed™ - Our rage of eco-friendly coloured yarns. We offer a large variety of shades and co- Our setup is abled with the appropriate amount of aulours. We also offer customized, Made to Order co- tomation and technology to enable our team with better and more consistent performance. lours #OurYarnYourColour •

Sanathan Stretch™ – Yarns which add freedom of motion and movement to the garments.

Sanathan DryCool™ Yarns – innovative polyester yarns designed with moisture-wicking properties •

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Our plant provides automatic doffing, transportation and package handling systems to meet global inventory management standards. We also have automated warehouse management


system to ensure high efficiency, less damage and Views on Sustainability, Recycling, Waste better inventory management in a limited space- management We have a dedicated and skilled team for process management, quality control and research & development. Focusing on developing new yarns to carter to varied end use and applications across multiple industries. Our experienced team is focussed on this endeavour to ensure we be ahead of the curve in making high value-added yarn products. We achieve the above by focusing on the below •

Updating our lab facility with the latest equipment

Constant product benchmarking

Finding the problem and then working a solution

Sustainability is at the heart of every decision we make at Sanathan Textiles. Whether its regarding business, • Understanding the customer’s purpose and desire people, or our surrounding. With the second generWhat is your wish-list for the industry and the ation fully involved in the running of the business at Sanathan Textiles, we are aware of the importance of Government? climate change and are keen to introduce measures to help reduce our carbon footprint as an organization. - Keeping in sync with these ethos we installed a 2.3MW solar power facility for in-house supply of renewable power. - We recently converted all our packaging carton to FSC paper. - We have already installed Solutions at our facility for systematic disposal of waste. Our foray into BornDyed™️ coloured yarns, which uses dope dyed technology to produce colour polyester Our government has been very proactive and support- yarn is an eco-friendly solution to producing coloured ive to the textile industry. Announcements such as the yarns. PLI scheme and the recent Textile Technology Devel- Reducing consumption of chemicals and shortening opment Scheme (TTDS) have created lots of excite- the supply chain helps in reduced production costs and ment and growth prospect for the industry. ensures the ecological footprint of the final products is The world is looking at an alternative supplier to China. The textile industry has seen tremendous demand boost from around the world due to the China +1 factor and now with the right government initiatives and support, India can surely reap the benefits.

in check.

As the demand for sustainable textile increases, we at Sanathan have decided to contribute by producing yarn from PET chips which are made from waste recycled bottles.

Locally the inverted GST structure is a hurdle for MMF With Reviro our endeavour is to contribute to the new manufactures which the ministry is aware of. Some worlds efforts through Reducing, Reusing and Recyprompt and amicable solution for the entire industry cling. is expected soon. 58

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What are your future goals to increase pro- “We are happy that our pigment products are now certified to be environmentally friendly. This human-ecoductivity?

logical perspective is something that Vipul Organics has always focused on and now our clients can see the transparent proof of that with the ECO PASSPORT’, says Mr. Mihir V Shah, Executive Director, Vipul OrganIn the coming years we hope to grow in a similar fash- ics Limited. “The testing and certification process on ion. which this Certificate is issued guarantees maximum Recycling Fiber is the new trend in textile, consumer safety. The certification will also help us what is the growth you can see in this indus- broaden our client base and target multinational companies that focus on safety and sustainability”, he adds. try? In 2020 we doubled our cotton yarn capacity which is in full production now. While in 2021 we increased our manufacturing capacity in Yarns for technical textiles.

With growing environmental concerns and awareness, recycling waste in useful textile products is the need of the hour. The demand for sustainable textile is increasing every day from our customers and brands. At Sanathan Textiles have started our range of recycled yarns made from waste recycled bottles by converting them to PET chips. Our range of recycled yarns are marketed under our brand name Sanathan Reviro. This range of recycled yarn products are available as texturised yarns, fully drawn yarns and also come with the required GRS certification. The demand for these yarns are going to grow at a faster pace in the coming years because of customer awareness and requirements.

The ECO PASSPORT by OEKO TEX is a definitive independent certification system that is especially designed for manufacturers of process chemicals and chemical compounds. The ECO PASSPORT certifies the safety and sustainability of the entire value chain of manufacturing textiles. During a multistep process, OEKO-TEX analyses whether each individual ingredient in the chemical product meets the statutory requirements and that it is not harmful to human health. Both brands and manufacturers value the ECO PASSPORT as credible proof of sustainable textile and leather production. Once per year, OEKO-TEX updates the banned substances and limit values and expands them to include new scientific findings or statutory requirements.

Vipul Organics has always believed in offering the highest level of safety to its customers and today, its new factory at Tarapur is Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) unit. This involves a significant commitment of resources and Vipul Organics is focused on creating an environmentally friendly product line. With this credential, Vipul Organics now has significant advantage and opportunity to work with Global multinationals which reVipul Organics Limited, the BSE listed (VIPULORG / quire this certification from all its vendors. 530627) leading Specialty Chemicals company in the Vipul Organics Limited is a BSE Listed (VIPULORG / pigments and dyes segment, has announced that they 530627) leading Specialty Chemicals company in the have successfully received the OEKO-TEX Certification Pigments and Dyes segment. Today, it is amongst the for their pigment products under the brand name Sunforemost manufacturers of Pigments, Dyestuff, Lake Print for the textile industry. Colours and Pigment Intermediaries / Fast Salts in the Vipul Organics joins a handful of companies globally country. It has 6 manufacturing facilities spread across in the pigments sector, to have received the ECO PASS- Maharashtra and has global footprint in over 50 counPORT. This will open up opportunities for Vipul Organ- tries. Vipul Organics ended the financial year 2020ics to work with those global textiles and garments 2021 with revenues of Rs.120 crore, marking a robust companies which are committed to upholding a sus- 28% + growth over the previous financial year. tainable ecosystem.

Vipul Organics Receives OEKO-TEX certification

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Interview—Anil Rajvanshi

GUJARAT TURNING INTO VIBRANT HUB OF TEXTILES: ANIL RAJVANSHI TVC Editorial Team

Mr Anil Rajvanshi, Senior Executive Vice President & Head Corporate & Industry Affairs of Reliance Industries Ltd. (RIL) is the Chairman of The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC). Mr. Rajvanshi is also a member of the National Committee of Textiles of Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) and Federation of Indian Chamber of Commerce & Industry (FICCI). He is also associated with the Textiles Committee and represents Reliance Industries Limited at The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA). Mr Rajvanshi spoke to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain in an exclusive interview. Excerpts:

As SRTEPC has been organising buyer-seller meetings for many years, then what is the purpose for which you have kept buyer-seller meeting only in Surat?

The material which is manufactured in Surat is in dyed, embroidered or in printed forms and some of the quantity goes to pan-India and some to Bombay from where it is exported. Since 40% is made in Surat, all MMFs made in India will be consumed. Materials As the flagship event of SRTEPC, it started from Sumade in Surat by engraving, embroidery and printing rat only in 2016, and in 2018 it was organised in Surat are distributed throughout India and a certain amount only. In 2019 we organized it in Bombay. As a result of is exported to Bombay. Most of the production is done COVID-19 in 2020 and 2021, we were unable to host in Surat, which is a little faster than Bombay, but for buyer-seller meet in 2022. In Bombay there was a jummanufacturing and cost reasons it is common to make bo ground center, so we thought that would organise brands in Surat. Light chiffon quality is available in there but now it has become a center for COVID-19 pamany qualities. tients, so we are looking forward to bring our signature event back to Surat. Now we are determined to do that The quantity of chiffon is not produced in any country on an annual basis which will be known as Brand Surat. in the world except in India because the quality is not Because, for man-made fibre, man-made textile indus- produced at the same cost as done here. Therefore, we try has a big role. Around 40 million meters of cloth is believe that all of this needs to be further encouraged. manufactured per day in India with Surat as the biggest Why cannot we increase synthetic man-made fibres, centre, and around 7 lakh people are located in Surat, so that people buy more MMF products and so that manufacturing activity is increased, and that exports out of the 20-lakh people working. can also be increased. Second thing is that the entire Surat is the biggest hub, but why the internaproduction of man-made fibre plants is located in Gutional buyer-seller meetings you are not orjarat.

ganised in Mumbai, which is the main hub? 61

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When all the biggest man-made fibre production and


nylon are centred in Gujarat, obviously it will be main hub of man-made textile. In time to come Gujarat will be one of the most vibrant hubs of textiles in the whole of India and will be an appropriate place to be hub of textiles manufacturing. If you see globally, share of man -made textile is 72% and of cotton is just 24%. In China it is 35%. We produce 5 million tons of polyester per day, including fibres and yarns. China produces 55 million tons. If there is a proper investment and reinvestment environment created by the Government, then the man- made fibre industry will outgrow any other fibre in the country.

Bio-Inspired Textiles Promote Sustainable Fashion While variety is one of the essential signs of deals accomplishment inside the style business, it’s likewise one of the world’s biggest wellsprings of water contamination. Truth be told, material plants frequently dump leftover colors and unsafe synthetic compounds into trenches, streams and waterways. At NC State, specialists from the College of Natural Resources and the Wilson College of Textiles have fostered a cycle that could some time or another tackle this issue — and it includes the utilization of nanoscopic particles extricated from wood. “Material plants use colors and other hue specialists that are extremely harmful,” said Nathalie Lavoine, an associate teacher in the Department of Forest Biomaterials. “Utilizing nanocellulose is a way forward to economical handling.”

Nanocellulose is a normally happening substance separated from cellulose — the primary substance of a plant’s cell dividers. It’s separated into two sorts: nanocrystals and nanofibrils, the two of which are biodegradable and non-harmful. The previous is additionally more grounded than steel. With subsidizing from I think still nylon and acrylics are coming from the Research Opportunity Seed Fund Program at the Wilson College of Textiles, Lavoine and her teammates China have fostered a cycle that permits them to utilize No it is not like that. See, as 90% of acrelic consumed nanocellulose to deliver dressing things with luminous in India is made by Yardman??, Indian Acrylic and Pa- highlights looking like the rainbow-toned gleam seen supati Affilon within India. 85% of nylon is produced on fish scales, bird quills and bug bodies. “Specialists in India, polyester 65-70% is consumed and produced have known how to make brilliant movies with these in India so, and that is why I am telling you that Man- nanoparticles,” Lavoine said. “Yet, as of recently, it was made fibre is not growing in field like cotton. You have absolutely impossible to apply these particles to mato create a downstream value which has to begin from terials.” petrochemical. So, first you have to create PTA, etc to The scientists remove cellulose from wood chips and produce polyester. Today our availability is 5-6 million the mash utilized in papermaking and join it with watons for man-made industry, and if it is to be doubled ter, treating the subsequent blend with corrosive to then we need an investment of Rs 45000 crore. reveal nanocrystals. They then cleanse the combinaSo, you have to create a climate to invest. Today what tion to eliminate undesired parts. When the cleaning is lacking is the confidence and we have to think loud, system is finished, the analysts add the combination to outlines so it can cement into plastic-like movies. Then, have inclusive thinking. at that point, utilizing a PC supported plan table, they Recently, the government has launched the cut the movies into shapes and examples that can be PLI Scheme. What is your opinion? imprinted onto clothing things. Lavoine said the utilizaIt is not a well-defined scheme. Today if you see the tion of nanocellulose in materials guarantees the mainfinancial cost, it will go large scale, i.e. the investment tainable utilization of regular assets, opening a way for cost will go to Rs. 300 crore and will come above 8%. novel purposes of both poor quality wood and convenSo for that you have to create a market, and more in- tional lumber sources. It could likewise decrease color contamination from the style business. centives are needed. 62

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VISION To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery.

QUALITY POLICY KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology.

WHY KEN... Diverse product knowledge

Diverse manufacturing capability

Product development & Sampling are undertaken commercially

Ability to deliver & commitment to excellence

Organizational strength & backup to execute large institutional orders

Understanding of Customer needs & ability to service institutional customers to apparels

Technically qualified & competent team to service the customer needs

Fabric Design & Development capability Organization with 800 Members Team

CORPORATE OFFICE

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+91 |230 243 8538 TVC APRIL 2022

9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA.

office@kenindia.in


Interview—AKS Founder

“WE BRING FRESH FUSION THEMES EVERY 2 WEEKS” TVC Editorial Team AKS Clothings, a start-up Indian ethnic brand was founded by Ms. Nidhi Yadav, a young, energetic inspirational designer & entrepreneur. She started AKS when she was 25 in a small warehouse of less than a thousand units and today, AKS headquarter is located in the Millennium City of India, Gurugram, and has an integrated network of printing, dyeing, stitching, and manufacturing units in the Pink City, Jaipur. When Nidhi launched AKS, she ensured launching 15-20 new styles every two weeks. Today it has about 150 new styles every month, and a customer repeat rate of 35 per cent. AKS provides contemporary ethnic wear at an affordable price for women, Kids & Men’s. Today, the brand is available on Nyka fashion,Ajio, Jabong, Flipkart, and AKS’s own website. The company also ships products across India, Singapore, and Malaysia. It also has a couple of offline stores in Nagaland. Nidhi Yadav spoke with the Textile Value Chain in an exclusive interview.

Excerpts:

fresh fusion themes to the ethnic wear industry.

You have built AKS Clothings from a scratch. The process of constant expansion and implementing the newest business practices to serve clients continTell us about the early years of growth. The stories behind clothing labels have always aroused my attention. So, while studying fashion design in Italy, I looked at the business models of several well-known fashion firms. Inspired by their success, I decided to emulate it in AKS, a Yuvdhi Apparels company, in May 2014 with a bit of seed capital of Rs.3.5 lakh. AKS began in a modest warehouse with only a few thousand units. The only purpose was to inject comfort into the everyday needs of a new generation of women by bringing 64

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ues, thanks to our highly skilled management team. We’ve grown to a turnover of Rs.200 crore and presently serve over a lakh consumers every month without any outside funding. We want to raise Rs.500 crore shortly.

When did the company really take off? Give us details of its growth. Aks is steadily flourishing; it has skyrocketed since we increased our apparel ranges. It’s also because we’ve


made ourselves available across all digital channels. Because our brand is exclusively available digitally, accessibility across numerous devices was a must for us to reach a wider audience. In terms of industry growth, we’ve expanded by five per cent.

What is your brand building strategy? At AKS, we strive to provide fashion that is appropriate for the fast-changing times while maintaining high-quality standards and affordable prices. Since its beginning, the company has advocated for women’s empowerment and has already established a specific section for women to help them find better jobs. More than half of the outsourced businesses that work with AKS are either created or headed by women.

and cost-effective items. Because demand was growing and output was slowing, the key issue for us was to increase product production. It was difficult to boost output while preserving social distance at work. So, to address this issue, we increased our supplier base, which aided us in combating the problem.

What are your achievements in domestic and export markets?

The process of selecting a raw material supplier is not difficult, but it is also not straightforward. To be honest, it’s a lengthy and time-consuming procedure. Initially, we sourced our raw materials from Jaipur, Maharashtra, and small areas of Surat, Odisha, and Banaras; however, we have now expanded our raw material How did you manage the tough times of Covid sourcing to include more States. From the beginning till now, we at AKS Clothing have been delivering our in the last two years? products throughout India. During the initial lockdown, there were several difficulties. However, we were able to keep our daily wage How do you see the next few years? What are workers engaged by providing them with consistent the plans for expansion & diversification? employment. During the first lockdown, we created In near future, we aspire to become one of the topPPE kits and masks. It assisted us in keeping the manu- most leading E-commerce platforms in the entire counfacturing process running during the pandemic. We re- try. This time, we’ll concentrate on our direct-to-concalled our personnel in staggered shifts even after the sumer (D2C) and franchise models. Apart from that, lockout during the unlocking phases to preserve social for our Maternity and Nursing line, we recently partdistance standards. nered with Neha Dhupia. We aimed to be the market We had all of our resources accessible for work during leader in ethnic women’s apparel, and the entire team the second shutdown, which helped us retain. The of AKS is working around the clock to achieve this goal. textiles and raw materials, on the other hand, were a Our major objective in this regard is to increase market hurdle. As a result, we came up with the concept of penetration through MBOs and e-portals, and we exupcycling our waste textiles into children’s clothes. pect some pretty fantastic outcomes. This collection was always on our minds back then, but it wasn’t a top priority for us. The second lockdown, on the other hand, provided us with a boost since we needed to engage personnel. As a result, we began working on the children’s collection on June 1st and completed it in just one month. It was, as expected, difficult, but we’re delighted we did it since it turned out to be a big success.

We’re planning to bring more celebrity collections in the future. Initially, Aks focused on women’s fashion labels, but we are now expanding to include products for all members of the family. In terms of future goals, we want to make AKS a comprehensive women’s apparel brand in modern trends, and to make that a reality, we’ll use MBOs and Franchisees to expand the brand’s market penetration. In-house manufacturing is also a The covid-19 pandemic has had a significant impact high priority for us in the future. In five years, I hope to on consumer behaviour. They now place a greater em- see AKS among India’s top ten garment brands. phasis on internet enterprises, and they believe that We’ll go further into the country’s most popular e-comsome platforms and brands provide real, high-quality, merce platform. This time, we’ll be concentrating on 65

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B2C as well as the franchise model. Aside from that, we’re working on a unique collection in collaboration with celebrities. Celebrity-inspired collections are also in the pipeline.

to achieve, so don’t be scared to put work into your business.

In the future, sustainability will be a big trend in the fashion business. Consumers are growing more senAt AKS, we strive to provide fashion that is appro- sitive to Mother Nature, which has pushed firms to priate for the fast-changing times while maintaining implement environmentally responsible practices. high-quality standards and at affordable prices. Since While worldwide designers and retailers have begun to its establishment, the company has advocated for choose the sustainable way, I propose and recommend women’s empowerment, and has already established that my other industry companions follow suit. a specific section for women to help them find better Also, the government should surely aim to implement jobs. More than half of the outsourced businesses that some efforts that the sector should take to stay on the work with AKS are either created or headed by wom- sustainable path and guarantee that there is no waste en. at the end of the lifecycle by allowing shipping expens-

Ethnic wear: How do you rate its growth in In- es to be compensated with carbon credits. dia & abroad? The Indian ethnic wear sector is one such industry that has seen significant progress in recent years. The level of accomplishment that this sector has attained is remarkable. Even now, it’s flourishing like crazy. People’s lifestyles in India have altered dramatically in recent years and continue to do so. In tandem with this, the Indian ethnic wear business is introducing a slew of improvements to the design patterns and styles of various ethnic wear. Even if urbanisation and globalisation have brought about a lot of change in today’s wearing style, ethnic wears continue to be in high demand. The explanation for this is simple: in India, most women adhere to traditional beliefs, which is why they favour ethnic clothing. Indian ethnicity is highly distinct, and in today’s world, not only Indians but others from all over the world value it.

What are your messages for new entrepreneurs, industry and the government? The most important motivation is to continually challenge yourself in order to attain your objectives. Running a business requires a lot of time, but the only way to be happy in life is to pursue work that you truly care about. Please don’t be afraid of failing since we never know what will happen unless we try. Believe in your ability to achieve, and you’ll find a method to overcome challenges. Keep in mind, my entrepreneur friends, that most overnight triumphs take a long time 66

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Lankan crisis benefits Indian textile exporters

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ountries importing textile goods from Sri Lanka have now started shifting their orders to Indian exporters as Sri Lanka continues is suffering one of the worst economic crisis, said the Ministry of Textile official recently. UP Singh, Secretary, Ministry of Textile said, “Some countries who were earlier importing from Sri Lanka, have started contacting India, as Sri Lanka is under its worst economic crises. Some orders have already been given to companies in the Tirupur district of Tamil Nadu. Tirupur is the hub of the textile industry in Tamil Nadu.” Singh said that last year’s textile sector export was around US$43 billion and this year the target has been set for US$100 billion. India is currently producing more than 340 lakh bales of cotton, but consumption is going to be more than production due to the order diversion from Sri Lanka due to the crisis. Meanwhile, A Sakthivel, President, Federation of Indian Exporters Organisation said, “Buyers are now started making queries with Tirupur Exporters Association and other places in India because the situation in Sri Lanka is bad. Some queries may turn into orders. This is an opportunity. Good talks are happening and we expect some orders to divert from Sri Lanka to India.” He said Indian exporters are getting queries from countries like the United Kingdom and European Union Countries.


Interview-Dr. Suman Mundkur

“DYNAMIC SHIFT IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY WITH FOCUS ON SELF-RELIANCE” An Interview of an Educationist / Research Consultant with TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA. Dr. Suman Mundkur is an Academician with 29 years’ experience and a Research Consultant, Academic Research consultancy Services. She is a Visiting Faculty, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing, Institute of Chemical Technology ICT Mumbai. She holds Honorary positions as General Secretary, Home Science Association of India, and Hon. Trustee, Board of Trustees, Society of Dyers and Colourists Education Charity. An Ambassador and Mentor, Researcher.Life, CACTUS Life Sciences and an Authorpreneur, Author Freedom Hub Society. https://authordrsumanmundkur.com/ Share your Education and Professional Journey After graduating with a B.Sc (Home) Specialization in Clothing and Textiles, I went on to do an M.Sc (Home Science) Specialization in Textile Chemistry, from the University of Mumbai. To qualify for teaching in College, I equipped myself with a Diploma in Higher Education and later cleared the National Eligibility Test conducted by UGC. My professional journey started in 1991. After eight years of teaching in Junior College, I joined the Sir Vithaldas Thackersey College of Home Science, SNDT Women’s University, in 1999. Teaching at the undergraduate level gave me ample opportunities to be actively involved in activities like resume building, grooming, preparing them for interviews, writing and publishing articles. Upgrading educational qualifications were necessary for career advancement. Each time I upgraded myself with a course, I got to teach new subjects. I took an Advanced Course in Textile De67

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signing, a Certificate Course in Computer-Aided Textile Designing, and a Diploma in International Trade Management. Taking up responsibilities in the College helped sharpen interpersonal, communication, and organizational skills. I undertook a UGC Minor Research Project. I got the opportunity to present a research paper at the International Conference XXII World Congress of International Federation of Home Economics at Melbourne, Australia. Two other papers at Istanbul, Turkey and Brunei. As a preparatory course for a Ph.D., I completed a Certificate Course in Advanced Research Methodology from Mumbai University in 2012. Soon after, I registered for Ph.D. (Home Science) from the Department of Textiles and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, affiliated with the University of Mumbai, completed in August 2016. I retired as Associate Professor in April 2020 after 29


years of experience teaching and research. The lockdown allowed knowledge up-gradation. I did a few Certificate courses in Advanced Research Methodology, EXCEL, and Material Science organized by REST Society for Research International in 2020. The Indian Patent awarded in March 2022 for part of Ph.D. research under Dr. Ela Dedhia has been my latest recognition.

My long association as a patron member with the Textile Association of India helped me participate in many of the Seminars they regularly organize. Interaction with several Industry professionals, consultants, and manufacturers when visiting Exhibitions like the National Garment Fair organized by Clothing Manufacturers Association CMAI and HGH Home Fashion, where my students volunteered.

Being an educationist, what has been your jour- What difference do you find with the Education System in India and Overseas? ney in life and interactions with the industry?

The new education policy NEP 2020 is expected to change the Indian education system. A transformation in the system and a mindset shift cannot be expected too soon. The syllabus in Indian education has been highly structured. Some academic freedom was given to Autonomous Colleges. The faculty could use creativity in delivering information, teaching methodology, As a requirement for a B.Sc in Textiles and Apparel De- and technology. signing, the students must undergo an internship of six weeks. The internship often led to them being placed Opportunities at the organization. As a mentor, I visited the organiza- Abroad, there is no concept of reservations/quota tions and interacted with the employers for feedback or discrimination based on any protected category, on students’ performance. Many of the interactions whereas the caste system is apparent in India. Good with Buying Agencies, Manufacturers, Export Houses teachers are not attracted to the temporary teaching have fruitfully led to placements of graduate students. positions in Higher Education due to government polSimilar long and close association with the Society of icies. Being an educationist, I have interacted with several professionals from the textile industry at seminars and conferences throughout my years of teaching. This has helped me stay updated on the latest developments in the field. During the lockdown, webinar attendance increased three-fold compared to the physical.

Dyers and Colourists Education Charity, which helped bring together on a platform, experts from various fields like textiles, Dyes and Chemicals, Polymers, Coating, Digital printing, and the faculty and students of various Institutes. Organizing Panel discussions, Seminars, and Research and Design competitions annually, among students both at undergraduate and postgraduate levels, allowed interaction with the Jury members and academicians.

Flexibility

Indian students are expected to choose a stream early, often making it difficult to change without losing a year. In the US, the students at the undergraduate level for four years take a wide range of subjects that allows them to switch streams with ease and maturity. High School students can choose how difficult they want high school to be. There is greater flexibility, for example, AP courses in the Advanced Placement ProInteractions with Scientists and Researchers at Wool gram, motivated high school students are allowed to Research Association, BTRA, SASMIRA during my re- take University-level studies while still in High School search and my mentee’s, field visits with students have if they want. been enriching. I have interacted with the Scientists at Practical experiences and All-round development ICAR CIRCOT during the Meetings of Governing Body of the Indian Fibre Society and knowledge sharing Semi- Indian students start attending coaching classes and tuitions with too much emphasis on academic scores. nars. 68

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Less time and effort are spent on extra-curricular activities, improving general reading and knowledge, and sports. There is almost no time left for any community work and overall development. Unlike in the US, where a wide array of courses promote extra-curricular activities. For instance, a student can take up foreign languages , music, dancing, painting, etc. at the undergrad level.

is hierarchical. The ability to question, think critically, analyze and communicate is critical in research. The Research Scholar and Guide relationship are crucial for a positive research environment.

As a Mentor, what are the qualities capabilities that Ph.D. aspirants and scholars must possess?

A Ph.D. aspirant must have the desire to do research. The critical ingredient is curiosity, the ability to ask In developed nations, young adults often take up part- questions and seek answers. I have explained this time jobs alongside their academics. They gain enough in my first book, ‘Zeroing In On A Research Topic’: A life experiences by the time they complete the Univer- Guide for first-time researchers available on Amazon. sity degree. This helps enhance practical knowledge The book gives the resources and strategies for selectand overall development that gives them an edge at ing and narrowing down a research topic. the job. They can better relate education to their experiences. The emphasis for students is not on memoriz- Nurturing a Researcher Mindset becomes essential ing but on how and where to find information. There in the research process. Ph.D. scholars must practice is more stress on the practical application of the theo- Self-Discipline to be consistent in research efforts. Another essential quality that will help them through retical concepts. their PhD is time management. Collaboration between Academia and Industry In addition, the ability to search, absorb and share ideas Specific collaborations between the industry and uni- from various sources, the ability to handle anxiety and versities, such as a robotics company in the US setting stress, and the ability to think clearly are important up a specialized degree program with a university lab- qualities that make a great researcher. Comprehenoratory, make graduates learn topics more directly ap- sion can be developed as the reading on a topic of inplicable to jobs than the traditional breadth courses. terest increases. Take notes as you read, summarize, define research questions, make mind-maps, identify Funding gaps and research problems, and make a comprehenThe external funding from Industries, Investors, and sive research plan in the proposal. So along with curiAlumni allows Universities to attract the best profesosity, creativity, comprehension, and clarity are equally sional talent. It also provides them with the resources crucial for any Ph.D. scholar. Lastly, sustained interest needed to sustain research projects. These could be and self-motivation will keep the scholar in top gear. some of the main reasons for students seeking educaAs Faculty, what difference do you find between tion abroad and the US in particular. Critical thinking The most significant difference is in the importance of independent thinking and problem-solving. The solving process can give rise to innumerable questions. Students who have gone abroad to study, mainly European Universities, have expressed that the students are treated like peers at the university level. Students can freely have conversations with their faculty, ask questions and discuss. They feel that Indian education 69

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Indian research scholars and overseas scholars?

My interactions with International Research Scholars have been in the recent eight months, through the Researcher.Life Ambassador program. I find researchers abroad more communicative and open with their thoughts and ideas, while Indian Researchers are hesitant to discuss on an international platform. I know several of my acquaintances and my ex-students who have taken up higher education abroad. In


the initial months, they find it hard, as they have been habituated to rote learning and not been trained to think independently. In India, they have always been told to do a specific task in a certain way. Sometimes provided with readymade handouts, guidelines, and procedures. Being expected to think, analyze, do tasks independently critically can be overwhelming.

production cycles of upcycled and downcycled products. Consumers with increasing awareness on sustainability may also be more accepting of these products.

As a visiting faculty for M.Tech and some Ph.D. Research Scholars attending, some have years of work experience. I see such brilliant individuals. Each with a great potential for research and professional growth. If students and researchers ask more questions, learning can be more effective.

The Government has now approved 31 projects under the National Technical Textiles Mission. Setting up the seven Mega Textile Parks and promoting the textile sector will transform the industry. The trend is to improve quality standards towards Innovation and create an eco-system for start-ups.

It is only in 2019 through some of the Apparel Brands that Project SU.RE got a commitment to contribute to the UN Sustainable Development Goals 2030, especially SDG12, for responsible consumption and production.

How has the textile and apparel industry evolved Research from Educational Institutions is hardly in the last few years? applied in commercial production. What is the In my forty years in Mumbai, I have seen the shift of reason? How can we integrate industry with eduthe Textile industry from manufacturing to retail. Stu- cation to get maximum productivity of research? dents visited spinning and weaving mills and some composite mills until the late 90s. The manufacturing sector is fragmented, and jobs are outsourced. Large Mill land has been sold to develop Malls and residential towers. The textile and fashion students get to see the different retail formats, in apparel and home textiles but they do not get to see process from fiber to fabric, manufacture to packaging.

The Indian Universities and Educational Institutions will need to display their research capabilities strongly. It is the infrastructural facilities and incubation centers and through quality research projects, publications, and Innovation. Research aspirants are keen to do something different, innovate, start-up business, get patents. With young India population, there is immense possibilities. There is no shortage of ideas and human resources. In-

What are the latest trends in the textile and ap- stitutions can divert a lot of time and effort spent docparel industry? umenting for institutional rating and accreditation to There is a dynamic shift taking place in the textile industry, focusing on self-reliance. We have seen how several apparel manufacturers shifted to production of protective clothing at short notice, during the pandemic. Textiles being closely related to the polymer and chemical industries, how the raw materials will be sourced, the procurement of dyes, chemical auxiliaries, how energy is utilized and conserved, and how workers and employees are recruited, trained, selected, and treated will change.

research. It is a vicious cycle. Highly rated institutions find it easier to get funded projects. On the other hand, the industries need to look beyond ratings and rankings, have confidence in academic Institutions. The Alumni who are well placed in the industry can play a significant role in facilitating collaboration to get maximum productivity from research. The much-needed Academia and Industry partnerships will need a boost. So, will investment in Innovation and research gain more importance than ever before.

The shift from a linear economy to a recycling economy Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste manageseemed slow in acceptance. Circularity in production ment how is it relevant and important? Is it just will be a challenge for any production cycle. But the a talk of the town or any fruitful measures taken effort towards a circular economy will drive alternative 70

TVC | APRIL 2022


by industry?

trend has been to take a multi-disciplinary approach to research. The critical analysis of data allows judging the When I started research on waste management in depth of the subject dealt with. How the researcher 2011, not much importance was given to textile waste. has evaluated and thought through the subject, even if Citing reasons that recycling is expensive, recycled fiit has no empirical data, as in a review paper. Beyond bers are of poor quality; it is not worth the effort; I a plagiarism check, researchers also need to pay attenwas discouraged from research on managing clothing tion to other ethical issues in research and publishing. waste for Ph.D. ‘Sourcing, reuse, and recycling for technical textile products’ was my Ph.D. topic. One of the It is expected of the reviewer to think profoundly and products, a packaging sheet, has been awarded a Pat- offer suggestions to the authors for further refining the ent this month. The product has been certified by the paper for publication. Having spent over three decades teaching-learning and evaluation, offering feedback National Biodiversity Association. comes naturally. This can be a very meaningful and exIn the last decade, there has been a drastic shift in citing part of reviewing research papers. attitude at all levels. The research output in terms of Journal articles and thesis on sustainable sourcing, How has the transition been from being an Eduproduction, processing, conservation, redesign, efflu- cationist to a Research Consultant? ent treatment, green production, eco-friendly, envi- Research Consultancy has given me an opportunity ronmentally friendly, energy-saving, green chemistry, to interact with researchers from various disciplines effluent treatment, optimization, automation, shorting other than textiles and fashion. My start-up as an onsupply chains, and more. Sustainability has been talked line research coach started with the lockdown. I am about at every National and Global forum. The theme on a mission to empower people to research. Help of every Conference is linked to the UN SDGs in some them prepare research projects and publish papers. or the other way. Researchers seek help in selecting a topic, identifying gaps, and research questions from a review of the literature. Help is sought on how to formulate objectives The review process has been an enriching experience, and choose a suitable methodology. Preparing a rewith various subjects to read and review. When the pasearch proposal and preparing for admission to a Ph.D. pers are well structured, it is easier to concentrate on program. So as a Research Consultant, it has been an reviewing the content. The paper may be good to pubenriching experience with a learning curve. lish as it is, or it may need minor revisions and, lastly, may not be suitable for publishing. Some Journals do In support of researchers, as a Researcher.Life Amnot have the system of desk rejection, and a reviewer bassador from India, it has been possible to have conlands up with many papers to sift. Papers with shallow ducted a panel discussion on ethical guidelines for recontent or content with good ideas but not presented searchers. Two Facebook Live sessions on publishing well, language. It is important to identify certain as- a review paper and Developing an Effective Research pects for better clarity, and ambiguity in statements. Proposal. As part of the R Voice mentorship program, I Early researchers sometimes write something, when have been mentoring proposal writing and enhancing they intend to mean something else. My blog on proof- professional profiles. reading elaborates these points. Life after retirement has put me in a lifelong learning Being a Reviewer, National and International Journals

The experience of being a reviewer gives comprehensive experience. It is interesting to read how researchers approach a topic and its methodology. Researchers are increasingly using the mixed methodology. The 71

TVC | APRIL 2022

mode. Over three decades in Academics has given me confidence in the second innings. With so many opportunities opening up, there is so much to know and grow!


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Corporate News ACCUTRASH IN BREMEN INSTITUTE

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TVC Editorial Team

US$65 billion scope in textile exports

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TVC Editorial Team

AG has supplied and installed recently its fulndian textile exports can hit US$65 billion if indusly automatic cotton trash testing instrument try majors take the right steps and there is proper “AccuTrash” at Bremen Institute, Germany execution of government schemes, a joint report by for the ICA Bremen, the Global Centre for Cotton Test- global consulting firm Kearney and The Confederation ing & Research and Bremen Cotton Exchange (BCE). of Indian Industry (CII) said. Exports declined by 3 per International Cotton Association (ICA), Bremen in as- cent during 2015–2019 and by 18.7 percent in 2020, sociation with Bremen Cotton Exchange (BCE) and Bre- the report observed and went on to add that during men Fibre Institute has set up center of excellence for the same period, other low-cost countries such as Bangladesh and Vietnam have gained share. the following related to cotton testing worldwide. •

International Laboratory Certification

Round Trials

Cotton Grade Standards

Research and Development on Cotton& Testing

Quality Expert Certification

Cotton Quality Information& Consultancy

The institute will utilises MAG Solvics’ AccuTrash – Fully automatic trash separator not only for their research purpose related to test the real trash content in cotton, but also for testing samples received from their clients. Hence it is the recognition for MAG and AccuTrash in cotton fibre testing field worldwide.

“We believe with the right actions from the industry majors and robust execution of government schemes, India can hit $65 billion in exports (implying 9-10% CAGR) by 2026. This, coupled with growth in domestic consumption, could propel domestic production to reach $160 billion. Given the labour-intensive nature of this industry, this growth could add 7.5 million direct jobs in textile manufacturing, Kearney said in a statement.

The report said a variety of factors have contributed to India’s recent trade performance. India has factor cost disadvantages (example, power costs 30 to 40 percent more in India than it does in Bangladesh). Lack of free or preferential trade agreements with key importers, such as the European Union, United Kingdom, and The features of AccuTrash are as follows, Canada for apparel as well as Bangladesh for fabrics • Provision to test Trash, Lint, Dust & Micro dust sep- also puts pricing pressure on exporters. arately. “The high cost of capital and high reliance on imports • Automatic weighing of Trash for Accurate results. for almost all textiles machinery makes it difficult to earn the right return on invested capital, especially giv• Sample size up to 100 grams. en India’s slight cost disadvantage. Longer lead times • Windows based user-friendly software for reports. than for Chinese manufacturers make India uncompet• Provision to connect with MAG High Volume Fi- itive, especially in the fashion segment. For example, breTesting. India’s lead time is 15 to 25 percent longer than the competition in fabrics. Limited presence in the global trade of man-made fibre products. 73

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32 74 TVCTVC | MARCH 2022 | APRIL 2022 47 TVC | Jan 2022


Corporate News

Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America TVC Editorial Team

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onforts will highlight its advanced finishing and coating technologies for the production of technical textiles at Techtextil North America, which takes place at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta from May 17-19. The company and its US representative PSP Marketing, of Charlotte, North Carolina, will be part of the centrepiece VDMA German Pavilion at the show (Stand 1936 in Hall B3).

technical textiles customers include manufacturers in the fields of home textiles, geotextiles, automotive fabrics, as well as functional materials. Dedicated Montex lines have also been supplied to producers of airbags, flame retardant barrier fabrics and spacer fabrics, as well as high-temperature filter materials.

“Technical textiles are extremely diverse in their enduse applications but the needs of the manufacturers European-built Montex stenters have earned their of very different materials are still uniform in many releading position on the market for fabric finishing due spects,” says Monforts Managing Director Stefan Flöth. to their robustness, reliability and economy. Existing “Montex stenters provide maximum efficiency, the

A wide width Monforts Montex line for the production of technical textiles. 75

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Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve a diverse number of markets. ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly periods, while at the same time reducing the chance of from one fabric formula to the next. Many of our cus- human error,” observes PSP vice-president Alex Frantomers need to operate 24 hours a day over seamless co. shift systems.” The Qualitex 800 system is available for the automatEnergy prices

ic and continuous operation of the company’s MonWith energy prices continuing to go through the roof, tex stenters, as well as its Thermex continuous dyeing an emphasis at Techtextil North America will be on the ranges, Monfortex shrinking systems and Montex®energy and heat recovery that can be achieved with Coat coating units. Montex stenters, through features such as the Mon- Versatility is the key forClean system, in which waste heat from the drying Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve an equally process is used to pre-heat the drying air. This results diverse number of markets, including tents, tarpaulins in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, aurequired. A range of further resource-saving and ener- tomotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full gy recovery options can be specified per individual line PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application installation. surface and low penetration treatments and solvent Advanced machine operation

With the highly intuitive Qualitex 800 visualization software, all article-specific settings can be stored and the formulations for thousands of treatment processes called up again at any time. Individual operators can also personalise their dashboards with the most important machine functions and process parameters. “The easy to use HMI makes the operation of the line much simpler and cuts down the necessary training 76

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coatings (in explosion-proof conditions) with knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can all be accommodated with this system. “Technical textiles are a key pillar of our production programme and North America is one of our major markets, which makes Techtextil North America a very important show for us,” Flöth concludes. “We are looking forward to reconnecting with customers old and new at this always-vibrant show.”


Corporate News

launches new “WONDERFUL” trend collection TVC Editorial Team

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lat knitting is one of the most versatile textile form- Accordingly, the new trend collection serves differing technologies. What is possible here is shown ent areas of application: Extraordinary STOLL-knit and by STOLL’s regular trend collections. wear® products in the new gauge of E 10.2 and in esThe latest compilation of inspiring designer pieces tablished gauges, such as E 7.2, inspire the market for is entitled “WONDERFUL”. On display are wonder- seamless articles. Extravagant combinations of intarsia, ful products designed to make the viewer pause and STOLL-weave-in® and STOLL-ikat plating® techniques marvel. “WONDERFUL” shows what it means to create create novel pattern possibilities, material usages and wonderful knitted articles. In today’s world, moments colour impressions. The possibility of individualisation of true wonder seem rare, but with the right technol- is supported by selected products via STOLL-autocreogy, creative visions become products that inspire and ate®. amaze. With STOLL’s technological solutions, wonderful product ideas can be realized for everything that is important to us: our children, our home, our appearance and our well-being.

The trend collection causes amazement, but also stands for responsibility and environmental awareness. One chapter presents a sustainable footwear fabric solution that was created in collaboration with renowned players in textile value creation. “WONDERFUL” was launched in March 2022. The first presentations took place in front of customers in Italy and were a great success. “Our “WONDERFUL” designs were very well received. Some customers have adopted the new pattern options contained there directly into their current collection, and ordered the necessary technical kids to convert their machines,” explains Jörg Hartmann, Head of Fashion & Technology at STOLL with satisfaction. 77

TVC | APRIL 2022


Corporate News

PRATIBHA SYNTEX’S GREENFIELD PROJECT FOR SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES TVC Editorial Team

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pening new avenues for sustainable textile business, Pratibha Syntex Ltd ventures into world class greenfield project Pratibha Swaraj Pvt Ltd. To be developed on the principles of Industry 4.0, the project would redefine the paradigms of the garment industry of India.

ternational brands like Patagonia, Prana and Columbia Sports.

“We are investing in Ujjain as part of our commitment towards Make in India project. The investment is envisioned to ensure minimum environment impact and maximum social impact,” said Shreyaskar Chaudhary, The first phase of the unparalleled factory would come MD Pratibha Syntex Ltd. into operations by August 22. The factory will manu- This plant will give employment to 4000 people and facture 100% sustainable sportwear to cater to the in- 80% of the total workforce will be women. To promote

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women empowerment, there will be more and more nology. It would be fully digitised with delivering real women participation in the staff. Presently Pratibha is time analytics. Most of the processes in the factory like warehouse, inventory management, material moveproviding employment to 6500 people. The greenfield plant is being developed adhering to ment and production would be automated. sustainable development goals. The state-of-the -art infrastructure will have all the essential construction material as per the norms of Indian Green Building Council. Even after construction, environmental protection will be paramount; instead of chemical processes, emphasis will be given on natural processes. Manure will be made from food waste. Sky lights will be installed to harness natural light. Electricity will be generated from roof top solar power plant installed at the factory. To ensure lowest water footprint, biological Sewage Treatment Plant(STP) & Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP) will be installed. This will recycle the water which later would be used in washing and other operations. To make the production efficient & flawless, the factoInnovative Operations like In-Line washing and finish- ry will use lean management principles. These princiing systems will be outfitted to make efficient use of ples will lead to minimal wastage, reduced lead time, simpler distribution channels and overall performance water. There will be minimum use of fresh water. optimisation. Sprawling in 15 acres of land, the plant would have a dense forest in one acres of land to offset carbon emission. A contract has been signed with an agency of Pune for the development of this green belt. The factory will come into operations by end of 2023.

The factory will be incorporating cutting edge tech79

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Pratibha Syntex Limited is a vertically integrated and sustainability oriented textile industry that has unwavering commitment towards committed to environment, people and community. The unit located at Pithampur is functional since the year 1997 and today gives direct and indirect employment to a total of 6500 people. This unit enjoys patronage of around 25000 farmers and world class brands located in 20 countries.


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TVC APRIL 2022 Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA). Sr. No.| 842,843,845/1,


Corporate News

DATA-BASED YIELD IMPROVEMENT: USTER AUTOMATIC FABRIC INSPECTION LEADS THE WAY TO THE FUTURE TVC Editorial Team

Uster Fabric Inspection solutions bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for a digital future. Today’s textile markets are highly competitive, throughout the entire value chain from fibre to fabric. Customers expect unique products, at the right quality and free from unacceptable defects, every time. Fabric producers need to manufacture economically, with best-possible use of resources. The major challenges require comprehensive management strategies – and definitely automated fabric inspection. In the classic fabric production process, manual inspection and lab testing are time consuming operations which need to be optimized with automated solutions. Adding automation to the process will reduce production costs and satisfy customers by delivering 100% inspected fabrics. The advantages of data generated at automated fabric inspection bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for the future. The Uster EVS Fabriq Vision is an excellent example for proof.

T

he fabric quality assurance system

locates all defects in every roll of fabric. Fabriq Vision is able to capture any visible defect, at line running Fabric producers need to guarantee reliable speeds. It can be used in a variety of positions on most quality. This requires a consistently high rate of manufacturers’ machines. Inspection is objective, acdefect detection. Uster EVS Fabriq Vision ensures this curate and consistent. The automatically generated is achieved by using automated control during interdefect map serves as the basis of improved fabric qualmediate and final inspection, removing the need for ity which leads to maximum fabric yield for various apcostly manual inspection. The system’s ability to capplications. ture any visible defects allows fabric yield to be optiThe key to consistent quality is the optimised grading mised and prevents claims. efficiency. Uster EVS Fabriq Vision provides real-time Real-time process monitoring detects, records and 81

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alerts for operators, showing all defects and automatically creating roll inspection charts. All detected faults are collected in an album for review. Here the operator can quickly mark faults and select those which can be deleted. Users can set their own quality standards for different types of fabric and increase the efficiency of the grading process.

lems can be eliminated by immediate reactions and suitable corrective measures. Fabriq Expert provides real-time quality statistics, which can be used to identify root causes and main problem areas. Customizable quality analysis tools such as pareto charts, histograms and pie charts make it very easy to recognise problem ’hot spots’ and take the right corrective actions.

Yield – what finally counts After final inspection, fabric will often be cut into smaller rolls, which will then be delivered to various customers. Optimised cut control (OCC system) provides a tool for automated cut optimisation, as well as additional components which can be installed on any existing debatching or cutting line.

Data is the key to a bright future Multiple spectroscopes inspect the material and unique algorithms identify all defects automatically, recording them in a dataset for each produced roll. The Album Software ensures optimum inspection efficiency and throughput. Classification using artificial intelligence will become available for more applications to speed up the reviewing process. Uster Fabric Inspection solutions bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for a digital future. Uster Fabriq Expert is the real-time quality analysis system providing fully-customisable quality analysis tools. Information on process and product quality, based on data from each fabric roll inspected with the Fabriq Vision or another Uster fabric inspection system are well displayed on the PC screen. Uster Fabriq Expert helps managers and operators to optimise product and process quality, without the need for an additional quality reporting routine. Thanks to Fabriq Expert process-related quality prob82

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Upgraded process efficiency comes with clever software. The cut optimisation software automatically identifies the correct cutting position to achieve maximum fabric yield according to quality requirements. Invisible synchronisation marks are – also automatically – applied and indicate the position of defects and cut positions in a roll, so these are always under control, allowing the cutting table to run at maximum possible speed for maximised fabric yield.

We Cover everything in TEXTILEs!


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YARN REPORT MARCH 2022

THE

YARN

BAZAAR

TIMES

As Seen On

CURRENCY EXCHANGE (26 April 2022)

⬇ 0.25% 82.12 ⬇ 0.07% Euro 11.7 ↔ 0% Yuan Pounds 97.59 ⬇ 0.10%

Dollar

OUR OPINION An increasing trend was witnessed during the month.

MAR AVG PER CANDY

Raw Cotton (March 2022)

Cotton Yarn (March 2022)

MCX Spot Rate Shankar 6 (29) Cotlook A Index

41s KW (India) 60 CWC (India) 30 KW (India)

LAST YEAR

⬆ 2.98% INR 80601.9 ⬆ 3.50% 138.68 ⬆ 0.11%

⬆76.73% ⬆ 76.86% ⬆ 50.36%

MAR AVG PER KG

LAST YEAR

38710.38

⬇ 2.37% INR 459.1 ⬇ 2.99% INR 316.4 ⬆ 0.13% INR 351.8

MAR AVG PER METRE

Cotton Fabrics (March 2022)

76.5

⬆ 3.54% ⬆ 0.77%

⬆21.17% ⬆ 10.27% ⬆ 23.69% LAST YEAR

HIGHEST- LOWEST

43350 - 36690 90000 - 75900 152.75 - 133.15 HIGHEST- LOWEST

367 - 343 481 - 451 337 - 303

HIGHEST- LOWEST

60*60 Satin (144*66-48")

INR 60.63

-

63 - 59.5

40*40 Twill (132*64-63")

INR 94.4

-

96.4 - 93.1

60*60 Satin (165*104-63")

INR 106.11

⬆ 0.86%

108 - 104

*All the rates are indicative and Ex-mill. % change are calculated with respect to previous month rates

National News (26 April 2022) 1. Spinning mills in north India not keen to reduce cotton yarn prices

1. Taiwan Textile Federation to reveal green manufacturing technology

2. Telangana govt prepares crop plan; to promote cotton, red gram

2. RCEP trade to benefit recovery of world economy

3. Growing cotton more profitable: Agriculture Minister Singireddy Niranjan Reddy

3. China's economy sees stable start in Q1 2022

4. Cotton Dropped as Telangana Government is Targeting to Increase the Area by 55–65%

www.theyarnbazaar.com

84

International News( 26 April 2022)

TVC | APRIL 2022

4. French Textile Manufacturers to show turnkey solutions at ITM Istanbul

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E-COMMERCE TRENDS

11 MOST IMPORTANT E-COMMERCE TRENDS OF 2022-2023 TVC Editorial Team

Every year brings with it something new and this year, sadly, has brought another Covid 19 variant. However, through thick and thin, the old and new-life must go on. It does not stop for anyone and time passes. And so, businesses must learn to adapt to the changing environment. That, for a lot of companies today, means E-Commerce, says Lokendra Singh Ranawat, Co-Founder and CEO of WoodenStreet. To gain the maximum profit and loyal customers, adapting to E-Commerce trends becomes a necessity. This year, we are all going back to the basics of commerce. Customer is and always has been ‘king’. Things like sustainability and authentic user experience are extremely important too. E-commerce platforms, as well as other industries, should look for ways to embrace the change and integrate technology in their businesses to increase customer reach. Listed below are some of the emerging E-Commerce trends that can help you take your business to the next level. 1. ChatBots

Making your E-commerce services available on phones and mobiles is another trend that e-commerce comWith ChatBots gaining more human qualities, it is impanies must hop on. Making their businesses moportant to utilise the power of machine learning in onbile-friendly allows one to tap into the market with line shopping. AI-powered tools have become a central utmost ease since smartphones are a largely available part of a lot of customer-centred experience creation and viable source of growth. and can emulate the presence of an ‘in-store assistant’ while shopping which can prove to be a great aid for 4. Diverse Payment Methods the customer. Consumers today wants to pay for their order in various ways and it is up to the E-marketers to utilise the 2. User Experience Optimization plethora of various technologies available to integrate One of the more important aspects of working in an a whole lot of diverse payment modes, like E-wallets E-commerce store is to make the customer’s experiand Pay later options, available on their websites and ence as seamless and hassle-free as possible. Similarly, apps. an easy and well-designed user interface can have a lot 5. Using AR and VR Technology of impact on the customer as well. With the unprecedented growth in consumer tech, us3. Mobile Commerce 86

TVC | APRIL 2022


ing tech-based systems like AR and VR can make online shopping a more immersive and informative experience. The use of such visual technologies can also help companies reach out to a new market.

6. Personalised Marketing Customers today are asking for personalised services and marketing efforts. The push for using customer-specific materials is great and it has never been easier. Technology and data tracking allow AI to utilise the innumerable resources of the internet and channel-specific marketing content as well as personalised product recommendations to each individual.

7. Data Control It is important to know that even though there is a lot of importance that is being given to personalised marketing efforts, data privacy concerns are also gaining ground. It is important to balance the personalisation aspect with privacy concerns.

8. Sustainability There is a greater call for Institutions and E-Commerce to be sustainable and socially responsible. Trying to make the services and shopping experience as environmentally and socially responsible as possible can bring out a positive shift in attitude towards the brand.

9. Subscription and Loyalty Programs Making loyalty and subscription rewardable allows for a positive shift in user reach and encourages people to shop more and refer more.

10. Omnichannel Customer Experience Utilising all aspects of media available for public use can make it easier to increase brand visibility and make for a better, hassle-free user experience. Being able to pick up where you left off can make shopping easier for the consumer.

11. Utilize Various Selling Channels People are moving towards a better customer experience and E-commerce giants can give their consumers more incentives to shop on their platforms. Moreover, social media markets are also emerging and a shift to such markets can make things a lot easier. This shift in the consumer base and their demands are the driver of change this year. For E-commerce businesses to be successful and profitable, it is necessary to embrace the changes and rework your business model to focus on the customer and their needs. When this is done properly and targeted at the right audience, you will notice a positive shift in the market as well. 87

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FASHION

YOUNG DESIGNERS OF SATYAM FASHION INSTITUTE SHOWCASE WOMEN OF TODAY TVC Editorial Team

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ashion & Women are the heart and soul of our society and International Women’s Day is the moment and occasion to celebrate women. To show and extend their support, Satyam Fashion Institute’s graduating students designed their collection inspired by various facets of life and the roles that women play. Women love to dress well and exhibit their personal style through clothes. The collection was versatile and comfortable yet stylish keeping in mind the working women of today.

Marking the celebration of International Women’s Day & dedicating the true spirit of womanhood TRIPTYCH 2022 was a gala evening of 15 shows by the very talented students of Satyam Fashion Institute (SFI). Their collection was creative, stylish, and fashionable. The students are all set to conquer the world of fashion with their 15 different themes drawing their inspiration from nature and the environment. The collection was designed using natural fabrics like cotton, linen, and silk making the fashion industry more sustainable. The students graduating from Fashion Design, Textile Design and Post Graduate Diploma in Fashion Design together put on a great show. The show was recently held at Satyam Fashion Institute; sector 62 Noida was 88

TVC | APRIL 2022

choreographed by Rachna Sikka. The glamorous event provided a platform to showcase the ravishing attire designed by the Graduating Batch from scratch under the supervision of Show Organisers Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Principal, and Dr. Neetu Malhotra, HOD SFI. TRIPTYCH 2022 was aptly organised and celebrated with the unabashed spirit of a woman on the auspicious occasion of the International Woman’s Day. Mrs. Sneh Singh, Chairperson, and Mr. Pradeep Gupta, Secretary, Satyam Group of Institutions talked about their experience with organising the evening: “It was a tough time for all, in spite of the difficult times I am really happy to see the wonderful creations of students at the runway. This year students have taken their inspiration from nature and designed beautiful out-ofthe-box ensembles.”

Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Show Organiser & Principal, Satyam Fashion Institute said, “Each year we aim to make a difference in the design industry, the way people dress, the way people perceive clothes. This year the students have dedicated their collection to the women of our society on the occasion of International Wom-


en’s Day. They have designed clothes that are chic yet comfortable for working women.

Flora escasa theme was inspired by Jade vine flower in soothing shades of blue and white for summers.

Dr. Neetu Malhotra, Show Organiser & HOD, Satyam Fashion Institute Said, Institute Said, “We are really happy to organize the show for students after a gap of one-year due covid pandemic. The 15 themes that our students have exhibited through their work on the runway today only proves that creativity and innovation have no boundaries. Each and every show was distinct and showcased wonderful creations for the women of today. We are immensely proud of our young talented students who have come out of the cocoon and have put up a spectacular show of sustainable fashion garments.”

“The Never Ending Fantasy” theme is the celebration of colours in neon designed with cooling Glazed cotton fabric. Space the futuristic collection made of pu leather, cambric and linen. Warli Art is inspired by ancient life of humans depicting in light shades. Sunayana – the silent pillar of strength collection is dedicated to the women who are always the pillar of strength in every house. Voir a nouveau draws its inspiration from the ancient European culture is designed for women The people were captivated by 15 different themes who make a difference with their sense of style. showcased at the fashion show were, Orn Rocaille in- Prominent personalities from the Fashion industry spired by Rococo a collection of flowing fabric in beau- who graced the occasion were Dr. Shashikala Wanjari, tiful combination of glamour beige and fushia pink. Ms. Shashi Nangia, Mr. Ravi. K. Passi, Mr. R.K. SrivasWear the Change theme is inspired by Art Nouveau tava, Mr. Mukesh Aggarwal, Mr. Shiv Kumar Gupta, Mr. designed with cotton and chiffon fabrics and creating Rajeev Bansal, Mr. Manish Tripathi, Mr. Sonil Jain, Mr. ensembles in very Peri and Pearl Violet. Bang on Street Himmendra Gupta, Ms. Isha Sood, Ms. Suman Negi, is a pop art-inspired theme for the street style fashion Ms. Simmi Vasu, and Mr. Deepak Sood. lovers, created using fabrics like Denim, matty and net About Satyam Fashion Institute: Satyam Fashion Instiin shades of blue and white. Serenity to Dignity is a tute (SFI) is on the map of Professional Higher Educacollection inspired by roshini in shades of peach and tion with a strong dedication to the cause of women purple. Shibori is dedicated to marine life, the collec- empowerment by educating them in the field of Fashtion is designed in shades of blue and grey. Go Veg- ion & Design. These trained professionals will scale an is another theme to protect and save the environ- new heights and set new benchmarks in the growth ment, created using natural fabrics like cotton, satin of the Indian economy and will form an integral part and georgette in animal prints. Scars of Beauty is in- of industry set up. The Institute offers an outstanding spired by Kintsugi a Japanese art to embrace and heal learning environment for students by providing state to celebrate life. Bitten by Art is an amazing collection of the art infrastructure, facilities, course curriculum depicting art in fashion. Humanity to nature theme is and teaching methodology. ready to wear fashion inspired by shades of flowers. 89

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ABOUT COSMO SPECIALITY CHEMICALS Cosmo Speciality Chemicals, India’s fastest growing textile auxiliary manufacturer adds innovation to the textile industry.

Texxle Auxiliaries

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Eco-Friendly Products

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Robust Infrastructure

Skilled Team


fashion

Denim Show to showcase Indian industry prowess at first Mumbai edition TVC Editorial Team

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nnovative, fashionable, sustainable will define the Denim Show as the industry will get together to showcase their prowess at its first-ever Mumbai edition from 12 – 14, May 2022 at the newly launched Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC) in BKC.

have confirmed their participation for the Mumbai launch. The show will be jointly organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and Mex Exhibitions Pvt Ltd under the umbrella of Gartex Texprocess India, and cover the latest developments in textile, garment As one the fastest recovering market segments post machinery and screen printing with the objective to the pandemic outbreak, the denim industry is pegged encourage investments, new market development and to showcase a sustainable growth rate of 12% CAGR, enable India to be a globally competitive textile and highlighted Denim Manufacturer Association’s (DMA) denim manufacturing destination. Secretary General Mr Gagandeep Singh. All set for its India is the world’s second largest producer of denim Mumbai launch, the Denim Show aims to bring the In- fabric after China. “The Indian denim market capacity, dia’s denim mills and leading brands together to tap at present, is approximately 1.6 BN meters p.a. and apopportunities through the versatility of denim - the proximately 150 MN meters capacity.” added Mr Gafashion statement of future. gandeep Singh. The Indian denim industry has evolved significantly with ever changing fashion trends making its way into other utility-driven products. Innovative, fashionable, sustainable is what the organisers define will be the focus of the Denim Show in 2022.

Denim trends and market revamp

Leading brands such as Hyosung India, Jindal Worldwide, Arvind, Ginni International, Raymond UCO Denim, Bhaskar Denim, LNJ Denim, Oswal Denims, KG Denim, Nandan Denim, and Ashima Group among others 91

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The last few years have redefined the textile industry with the denim sector going through a big revamp in terms of the fits and fabric constructions. While a significant portion of womenswear denim has hauled from high stretch fabrics to more of comfort stretch and rigid classic 80s denim, fits as well moving from skinny to more relaxed and flared, menswear denim on the contrary is edging towards comfort to stretch fabrics with clean & basic washes. Hand-feel plays an important role for all segments which implies the need of


superior spinning techniques, finer counts and blends. natural indigo to reduce the dependence on synthetic Overdyed, tinted and coloured jeans are some of the chemicals. The brand is working on making responsible key fashion products continuing from last few seasons. denim and has curated a special denim collection that According to one of India’s top denim fabric manufac- offers ultimate comfort, breathability, and moisture turers LNJ Denim, the domestic market is still dominat- management while also being environment-friendly, ed by faux knit fabrics but with recent escalations in which will be seen at the Denim Show in Mumbai. the cost of key ingredients, LNJ Denim expect a shift towards more classic and authentic denim but with superior hand feel and saturation. In terms of shades, vintage & versatile pure indigos are back because of emphasis on clean and mild washes with raw look for basics while distressed and bleached denim in the high fashion product for all genders and age groups.

Denim industry taking steps towards sustainability and circularity

Head of Marketing at Raymond UCO, Mr Sudhir Deorukhkar explains: “These are small steps in the right direction towards creating more responsible denim fabrics that reduces the gap between fashion and sustainability. These fabrics can be crafted into a luxurious and versatile garment collection for eco-conscious consumers.” Raymond UCO has curated a special denim collection that offers ultimate comfort, breathability, and moisture management while also being environment-friendly, which will be seen at the Denim Show.

Adding to this, Mr Ashish Bhatnagar, Marketing Head, LNJ Denim said: “With our commitment and responsibility towards the environment, sustainability is more of hygiene for us now with persistent developments and focuses across various functional stages of fabric process.” The brand focuses on functional, sustainable and superior hand-feel denim fabrics made possible through various blends, spinning as well as finish innovations which will also be on display at the three-day Denim Show in Mumbai.

Being one of the mainstream sectors in fashion industry, denim mills are now steadily implementing circularity in their production processes. Indian denim brands are taking strong steps in a direction towards creating more responsible denim fabrics that reduces the gap between fashion and sustainability. These fabrics can be crafted into a luxurious and versatile garment collection for eco-conscious consumers. Of these is the renowned Raymond UCO who is said to be reinventing excellence with its high-quality denim fabrics using recycled polyester from ocean-bound plastics and Blu 2.0: a unique indigo dyeing process. The process involves recycling the ocean-bound plastics into fibers and blending with cotton to weave sustainable denims, reducing the freshwater consumption and effluent load in the dyeing process by about 85% using BLU 2.0 process and using eco-friendly dyes like 92

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Together with its focus on textile and garment machineries, fabrics & trims, screen printing and denim – Gartex Texprocess India will become one-stop creative and collaborative platform for the textile industry.


EVENT UPDATES

Gujrat chamber of commerce and industry : Textile leadership conclave 2022 TVC Editorial Team

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he Textile Taskforce of Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry successfully organized the Textile Interactive Meet and Textile Leadership Conclave 2022 on 23rd April, 2022 at Ahmedabad, Gujarat at Shree Shakti Convention Centre.

was created by the team of Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry with inputs from regional as well as national associations and the same was presented to the Honorable Ministers and Government representatives. The Ministers and Government representaThe Textile Interactive Meet saw leaders of as many as tives have assured to look into these matters and help 27 leading national and regional associations related with speedy resolutions. to textiles industry interact with Smt. Darshana Jar- The participating associations and their leaders apdosh, Hon’ble Union Minister of State for Textiles, Shri preciated this unprecedented attempt by the Gujarat Jagdish Panchal, Hon’ble Minister of Industries, Govt. Chamber of Commerce and Industry to bring various of Gujarat, Ms. Roop Rashi Mahapatra IA&AS, Textile national and regional associations on one platform and Commissioner, Govt. of India and Dr. Munjal Dave, In- present a consolidated set of suggestions and recomdustries Officer, Govt. of Gujarat. The interaction saw mendations to the government. a dialogue between the Government and Industry on As many as 600 participants from the across the verCurrent Affairs / FTA / Growth Plan / Incentive & Subsi- ticals such as Ginning, Spinning, Weaving, Process dies / Taxation / Cotton Production for Textile industry House, Garment manufacturers, Technical Textile and among others. A detailed presentation for the purpose Machinery manufacturers from across the country

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working on various levels for the cause of textiles in the state and country at large. And today’s event has set a fresh benchmark. I was very happy that despite short notice, leaders from as many as 27 leading national and regional associations of India joined the interaction and conclave”. In the inauguration session Hon. Minister Smt. Darshana Jardosh said that she and Hon’ble Minister Shri Piyush Goyal Ji are committed to resolve any issues that the industry is suffering and more so if the matter relates to Gujarat. She thanked GCCI for inviting her and giving the opportunity to interact with industrialists.

participated in the conclave. The Textile Leadership Conclave saw four leaders of the textile industry speak on the success story of their business groups. Shri Punit Lalbhai (Arvind Group), Shri Rajesh Mandawewala (Welspun Group), Shri Rajendra Agarwal (Donear Group), Shri Mohan Kavrie (Supreme Group) and Shri Rohit Pal (Infiiloom) were the speakers at the conclave. On the occasion, Shri Hemant Shah – President of GCCI said “With many Free Trade Agreements being signed by the government and new PLI schemes, the textile sector of India stands a chance to benefit a lot. And GCCI was extremely happy to have organized this interactive meet and the leadership conclave at the cusp of such a transition for sector”.

Hon. Minister Shri Jagdish Vishwakarma remarked that the Technical Textile Industry of Gujarat and India came to the rescue of the world during Pandemic by providing with uninterrupted supply of Masks and PPE Kits. He remarked that Gujarat has the best in class infrastructure and presence of diversified industries which makes it a very friendly business state. He invited all the textile entrepreneurs from across India to come forward and invest and the state will fully support them. Ms. Roop Rashi Mahapatra assured to reduce bottlenecks for the industry and smoothen the facilitation processes. In the conclave – Shri Rajendra Agarwal of Donear group shared the story of his inspiration and remarked that struggles are a part of our life and we all should try to persist and overcome them.

Shri Saurin Parikh, Chairman of GCCI Textile Taskforce said “GCCI Textile Task Force has been relentlessly 94

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EVENT UPDATES

India is yet to catch up with global trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras TVC Editorial Team

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he Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organised One Day Seminar on “Technical Textiles – Need of Today and Tomorrow” on 26th March 2022 at Vapi (Gujarat). The seminar was inaugurated by the Chief Guest Mr. G. V. Aras, Consultant & Strategic Business Advisor and Former Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

area. He suggested that textile educational institute should make technical textiles as a compulsory subject in their curriculum. He also emphasized that due to Covid problems in China the production capacity has been considerably reduced and hence Indian textile industry has tremendous opportunity to increase the productivity and grab the international market. He also praised the Indian textile industry for increase in the manufacturing of mask and medical kits business during this pandemic period.

Chief Guest, Mr. G. V. Aras, Consultant & Strategic Business Advisor and Former Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. lighting the lamp. Standing (L to R): Mr. R. K. Vij, President, TAI, Mr. Vikas Sharan, Vice President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Mr. Amit Agarwal, Chairman, ITTA, Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convenor of the Seminar.

Mr. G. V. Aras while giving his inaugural address said that there are a lot of opportunities in Technical Textiles industry but we are not able to grab them to prove ourselves in the international market. We don’t have the capacity for bulk manufacturing which can fulfil the requirements of big buyers. He also focussed that it is need of the hour to get skilled manpower in this 95

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Chief Guest, Mr. G. V. Aras delivering his inaugural address.

Inaugural Session Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit in his welcome address welcomed the Chief Guest, Key Note Speaker and Guests of Honour. He also welcomed the Awardees of The Lifetime Achievement Award & The Industrial Excellence Award, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates.


Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convenor of the Seminar while giving the highlights said that this seminar is organised to discuss the Opportunities for the Technical Textile industry in the challenging scenario. This exclusive seminar is to discuss the need of technical textiles for today and tomorrow. The deliberations in this seminar will show the future trend to do more towards new arenas of research, innovation, market development and investments in technical textile business.

proposed a Vote of Thanks.

Technical Session THEME ADDRESS Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman & Managing Director, Khosla Profile Pvt. Ltd. delivered theme address on “Importance of Technical Textile in Indian Textile Industry’. In his address he discussed about the various sectors in the technical textiles and emphasized on the newly introduced composites. He also gave the guidelines for Textile Technicians for manufacturing Technical Textile.

Guest of Honour, Mr. Amit Agarwal addressing the gathering.

Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, Indian Technical textile association (ITTA) in his Key Note Address said that ITTA is playing very crucial role in developing technical textile activity across the nation and guiding organization in the field in all respects. He highlighted various sectors of technical textiles and government initiatives toward establishing technical textile business in the country. Mr. Amit Agrawal, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) in his address as a Guest of Honour discussed about ITTA’s vision toward technical textile business in India. He also mentioned about the policy initiatives on Technical Textiles introduced by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit felicitated Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman & Managing Director, Khosla Profile Pvt. Ltd with “The Lifetime Achievement Award” and Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director & CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd. with “The Industry Excellence Award” for their outstanding contribution in the field of technical textiles. Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, 96

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Key Note Speaker, Dr. Anup Rakshit addressing the gathering.

SESSION – I PANEL DISCUSSION A Panel Discussion on the topic ‘Emerging Opportunities in Technical Textiles’ was featured an important event of the seminar. The discussion moderated by Dr. Chandan Chattarjee, Executive Director, ADS Foundation and the panel was comprised of senior leaders from the textile industry. The panel members came up with some radical thoughts which could be helpful for the growth of Technical Textile industry. Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director & CEO, Strata Geo-


systems (India) Pvt. Ltd. talked about geosynthetic material development and shared examples of its application. He mentioned how technology can resolve national problem in this road construction area. According to him there is huge opportunities in technical textile business.

Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman & Managing Director, Khosla Profil Pvt. Ltd. receiving The Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest.

»

Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director, Raina Industries Pvt. Ltd. highlighted about role of FRP in civil engineering applications and how a corrosion issue can be solved using textile materials. He elaborated good examples on sustainable solution to solve various problems.

Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director & CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd. receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the hands of Chief Guest.

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Mr. R. K. Viz, Advisor-Polyester, Indorama Synthetics Pvt. Ltd. focussed his discussion on the role of man made fibre in development of technical textiles. He stressed on PIL scheme of GOI and its benefits.

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»

Mr. Yogesh Kumar Garg, Managing Director, Dilo India Pvt. Ltd. took up a point on weaving machines for technical textile manufacturing. He also highlighted about role of Jute, banana, pineapple natural fibre role in technical textile development.

Release of Book of Papers: Standing (L to R): Mr. A. V. Mantri, Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Mr. R. K. Vij, Mr. G. V. Aras, Mr. Amit Agarwal, Mr. Vikas Sharan, Dr. Anup Rakshit.

SESSION – II During the technical session, following papers were presented by the eminent speakers. »

Mr. Paresh Shah, Vice President, Rabatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Rabatex : Warp preparation solutions for technical textiles”

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Mr. Anurag Tandon, India Sales Manager, Avgol Nonwovens India Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Polyester Market Growth”.

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Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Managing Director, India Cluster, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. made presentation on “Sustainable Technical Textile-Chemical View”.

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Mr. Sudipto Mandal, Assistant Manager-Sales& Marketing, Oerlikon textiles India Pvt. Ltd. presented paper on “Innovative manmade Fibres Solutions & Technology for textile and technical Textile application, Supporting sustainable textile value chain”.

SESSION – III PANEL DISCUSSION A Panel Discussion on the topic ‘Technological Ad-


vancements in Technical Textiles’ was featured as the last event of the seminar. The discussion moderated by Dr. Arup Rakshit Executive Director, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA). The panel was comprised of experts from the field of the technical textile industry. They came up with new ideas which could be helpful to the technical Textiles industry.

development. Mr. Sanjay Sathe, Sr. Vice President & Head Product Management, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. stressed upon the sustainable innovative solution to effluent problem faced by Technical Textile industry. He also spoke on safety and efficiency issue faced by industry and solution on using various novel products from Archroma. Mr. Narendra Kajale, Vice President, Technology & Innovations, Texport Syndicate (Ind) Ltd. took up the point of textile industry dependency on fossile fuel. He also spoke on climate change, protection from heat using technical textile materials, energy storage issue and human safety aspects. He also elaborated performance simulation model of garment as smart technical textiles.

Panel Discussion Session I: Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director & CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director, Raina Industries Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Executive Director, ADS Foundation, Mr. R. K. Vij, Advisor-Polyester, Indorama Synthetics (India) Ltd., Mr. Yogesh Kumar Garg, Managing Director, Dilo India Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Birendranath Bandhopadhyay, President, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. talk about new product development in technical textiles safety jackets to be used in Indian defence force. He shared valuable information on technical textile viz. shape memory textiles, Sports textiles, parachute fabric and technical textiles based on recycled materials.

Mr. Prashant M. Mangukia, Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd. spoke upon manufacturing of finishing machines and their innovative features. He highlighted working of finishing machines at various technical textile manufacturing units involved in technical textile

Dignitaries Sitting in the Auditorium

Panel Discussion Session II: Mr. Narendra Kajale, Vice President, Technology & Innovations, Texport Syndicate (Ind) Ltd., Mr. Sanjay Sathe, Sr. Vice President & Head Product Management, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, Mr. Prashant M. Mangukia, Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Birendranath Bandhopadhyay, President, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd.

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The panel discussions were followed up with very good questions from the participants which were replied by the panel members. The seminar was a grand success and was attended by more than 225 delegates.


EVENT UPDATES

Garment Training Program for rural community TVC Editorial Team

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hri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology has Assistant) conducted the training program in presence organised a “One-month free Garment Training of faculties. Program for Rural Community” in December, 2021. The program commenced on December 1st and concluded on December 31st, 2021 at the SVITT, SVVV campus. The objective of the program was to promote the self independency in the life of rural community through the modern technology. It is a continuous activity of the SVITT since 2006. SVITT, SVVV is proud to deliver the 15th batch of students of this training program (December 2021) under the “Azadi ka Amrut Mahotsav”. So far more than 300 candidates got benefited out of this program. Closing ceremony of the training program was organised on 3rd January 2022, in the presence of Mrs. Suruchee Taparia, Proprietor, Go green Textiles, Indore as Chief Guest in the presence of Hon. Vice chancellor, SVVV Dr. Upinder Dhar and Coordinator, SVITT, Dr. Namit Gupta along with the faculties and staff members of SVITT family.

In this year, 15 females from Baroli, Alvasa, Bhaurasla, and Ringnodiya participated. Current garment training program is based on industrial training module. It includes introduction to basic measurements, pattern making, machine operation, cutting, sewing etc. For the training modern high speed Japanese JUKI machineries were utilised. Mr. Rajkumar Sharma (Laboratory 99

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In the concluding ceremony, Dr. Namit Gupta, has briefed about the program and explained the scope of garment manufacturing in and around Indore. He emphasized the importance of skill developments in every day’s life. Dr. Upinder Dhar Vice chancellor, SVVV addressed the gathering and pointed out the benefits of skill development programs to the participants. He also encouraged participants to be in touch in future with SVITT, SVVV for further improvement. Spread of awareness about the trainning program into the rural & urban women to become economically independent


EVENT UPDATES

GLOBALSPIN TRADE CONCLAVE AT WTC, MUMBAI TVC Editorial Team

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lobalSpin Trade Conclave on Eco-handlooms, Eco-textiles and Apparels (https://globalspin. net/) held from March 25-26, 2022 at World Trade Center, Mumbai and was jointly organized by National Institute For Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (NI-MSME), Ministry of MSME, Govt. of India, IAMKHAADII FOUNDATION (IAMKHADI) and WORLD TRADE CENTER MUMBAI in association with NIFT Foundation for Design Innovation (NFDI), an organisation, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and All India Association of Industries.

in much needed steps towards attaining Atmanirbhar Bharat. The Chief Guest of the event, Mrs. Suruchee Taparia had pointed out the enormous capabilities of women. She inspired for this type of training programs for the empowerment of individual & their families. She emphasised on “Swavlamban” the self dependent, economically independent identity of individual. She also encouraged the participants for regular practice to enhance their garment making skill. In the ceremony, trainees also shared their experiences and thanked SVVV for providing such a platform which has potential to change their life style and make them self dependent. Mrs. Rachna Ghehlot, one of the benefited participants of the program shared her future plan to start garment business. At last, words of thanks were proposed by Prof. Ajay Shankar Joshi, Garment Training Coordinator. The master of ceremony was Mr. Suraj Thakur 100

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Dr. Vijay Kalantri, Chairman, WTC Mumbai; Mr. Yash Arya, Founder IAMKHADI; Dr. Gloryswarupa Director General NI-MSME; Dr. Pavan Godiawala Director NIFT Mumbai, accompanied by the Chief Guest the Hon’ble Governor of Karnataka, Shri. Bhagat Singh Koshyari on the dais during the inaugural ceremony. The speeches delivered by all delegatory on the dais the ceremony concluded with a vote of by Dr. K. Visweswara Reddy, Faculty, NIMSME. Chairman, WTC Mumbai emphasised the need of coming up with eco-friendly textile parks with Center of Excellence on sustainable textile. He further highlighted the need for Industry and academia collaboration wherein NFDI is playing an instrumental role providing an incubation support to budding entrepreneurs who aim to convert their academic achievements to business milestones. He further encouraged the initiative taken up through GlobalSpin, an initiative of


IAMKHADI and insisted on organising many more such industry events, trade fairs and exhibitions to create awareness about age-old eco-friendly textile craft of India. Furthermore, he highlighted the need of the modern textile ind ustry to shift towards environment friendly practices and become more acceptable in the global market.

the entrepreneurs. Interestingly two out of three presenters for the start-up presentations were from Woman entrepreneur, further strengthening the initiatives on woman empowerment.

The inaugural session was followed by welcome address delivered by Mr. Yash Arya, Founder, IAMKHADI and a brief introduction of NFDI by Dr. Ajit Nigam, CEO, NFDI. Thereafter, a technical panel discussion moderated by Dr. Ajit Nigam with panel members Ms. Sakina Ansari, Mr. Ramez Basmaji, Mr. Sachin A. Punekar, Ms. Dolly Bhasin (SMARTEDGE) and Mr. Ganesh Kasekar (GOTS). Later the floor was open for audience interaction and was found to be immersing with deliberation and discussion on Sustainable fashion, Organic textiles, Technology intervention in Textile and Apparel Business, and many more. Leveraging the artisans towards accomplishing their business in compliance with global standards was one of the focus areas where the panellists discussed in detail.

Export Marketing. The session was moderated by Mr. Yash Arya, Founder CEO, IAMKHADI (https://iamkhadi. org/). The panellists majorly deliberated on the idea of getting MSMEs prepared for Global Trade and Exports.

The Mr. Seewraj Nundlall, Counsellor (Trade and Investment), Embassy of Mauritius gave a presentation about country Mauritius and talked about business The inaugural session was graced by the presence of opportunites between both the countries and urged Honourable Governor of Maharashtra and many of if the trade delegation by IAMKHADI can be planned international delegate. Kuwait, Mauritius, Zimbabwe, to Mauritius to promote investment in textile sector, Egypt, UAE, South Africa, etc… The audience was con- start-up exchange program and cultural ties between stituted of guests from MSMEs, Start-ups, Women En- both countries. trepreneurs, Exporters, Traders, Government Officials, The series of events concluded with a panel discusstudents and faculty of NIFT Mumbai. sion on Towards Role of Funding Agencies towards

The start-up presentations were given by Ms. Sakina Ansari, Co-founder Maalgaadi, Mr. Kartik Raichura, CEO, InstaWeb Labs Pvt. Ltd., Ms. Bhavini Parikh, Founder, Bunkojunko, Mr. Sourabh Wagh, CTO SATATSOUK (a unit of IAMKHADI Export Pvt. Ltd.) and Ms. Tasneem Merchant, Creative Director, Tasneem Merchant Label. All these start-ups shared their ethos behind the Vision and Mission which they hold for their company and brands. Audiences were enlightened with business strategy of this business directly from 101

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GlobalSpin Awards nomination has been open and the award ceremony is planned to hold during August-September 2022 at World Trade Center, Mumbai along with International Exhibition, Conclave and Fashion Show. GOTS has shown interest to partner for this initiative. Through this GlobalSpin Trade Conclave, the Organisers and Co-Organisers wanted to start an engagement with all the stakeholders of textile value chain to initiate a unique project UDAAN, which is towards creating millions of micro entrepreneurs in the India i.e., it will create jobs and generate more foreign exchange for India, thus enhancing exports. It aims to create an enabling environment for enhancing skill development and entrepreneurship for the flow of trade, commerce, and technology and engage, enable and empower micro-entrepreneurs and start-ups to gain a better understanding of the challenges to global trade and export competitiveness. It focuses to towards ODOP and Aspirational Districts creating millions of micro entrepreneurs.


EVENT UPDATES

SMART GARMENTS FOR SMARTER LIVING, A WEBINAR REPORT TVC Editorial Team

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Webinar on the topic “Smart Garments for Smarter Living” was recently organised by the Smart Wearable Systems (SWS) Incubator, NIFT Foundation for Design Innovation (NFDI). SWS Incubator, NFDI under the aegis of National Institute of Fashion Technology and invited speakers Ilaria Varoli, Executive Vice President, Sayantani Nandy, Chief Operating Officer, Soliyarn and Moderator Rashmi Thakur, Chief Operating Officer, Smart Wearable Systems Incubator, NFDI & Assistant Professor, NIFT Mumbai.

She said the global smart wearable system is having compounded annual growth (CAGR) rate of 19.48% during the period 2021-2026. Smart clothing is advancing towards increased innovation thus leading to not only new products but also new raw materials. The sector majorly relies on conductive textiles and the ensemble is often called as E-textiles. At SWS Incubator we look forward to being instrumental towards the incubation of business ideas in the field. Two International speakers shared their insights both from the perspective of product and business development.

Ilaria Varoli said her company MYANT demonstrated how to show human participation in a digital world. She said according to Todays Healthcare System Healthcare spending in U.S. exceeds US$3 trillion, nearly 20% of GDP. Access to a primary physician is below 50% in the US. Nearly 1 billion doctor visits take place annually in the U.S. alone. One-thirds do not know they have diaIn the beginning of the webinar Moderator Rashmi betes, 1/5th do not know they have hypertension, & Thakur talked about NFDI, as NFDI holds four of its innearly 20% report overall poor health. Africa has 13% cubators at three of NIFT centre NIFT Mumbai, NIFT of the world’s diseases burden, but just 3% of world’s Delhi and NIFT Chennai in dolman of home and spaces, doctors. Yet mobile penetration exceeds 85% across Fashion and lifestyle accessories and Smart wearable the continent. system. Ilaria Varoli said technology is pervasive, but significant Rashmi Thakur introduced the two experts from the gaps reminds human potential. We have limitations in area of smart wearable, Ilaria Varoli is Executive Vice data about our physical well being. We lack universal President, Sayantani Nandy is Chief Operating Officer. 102

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access and participation. Our digital presence is limited to social content.

comfortable clothing solution, free of processing with no water waste.”

Ilaria Varoli delivering a lecture on the topic “End To End Production”

She said: “We have a unique approach: Our vapour phase chemistry achieves uniform, conformal, and virtually undetectable films that maintain both textile Ilaria Varoli introduced various products of Mayant and electronic/waterproofing function- coatings are with characteristics like: 1) Skin: Layering system that micron level thick, thus retaining form and feet. These acts as user primary connector.2) Passive, ambient, are cheaper to produce than existing solutions; fastcontinuous connection.3) Ubiquitous use of textiles.4) er to produce as it is a step dry process.and sustainCreate a new standard to connect humans.5) Working able textile processing with no water requirement or across multiple environments and over time. waste.”

Ilaria Varoli delivered a lecture on the device “24/7 Detection and monitoring metrics featuring” which acts as a layering system for the user. She also delivered a lecture on the topic ‘what Myant platform follows best-practice privacy and security.’ The session was then hosted by Sayantani Nandy who introduced his company, Solariyan: Textile RE- Imagined. She said they started Solariyan only in 2018. “We call our company functional coating company more than anything else but we also develop some prototypes to demonstrate to define functionality. I come from textile background. We feel that in 5 years people will be demanding what clothes should be. They don’t want to spend too much; in the way they spend today.” She said they are a small team as you can see, as a startup, their Journey has just started. She said according to their technology they develop functional coatings using proprietary and chemical vapour deposition. Coatings include: Conductive, FC free waterproofing and PFC free Olophobic. “Our Purpose is smart and 103

TVC | APRIL 2022

Sayantani Nandy delivered a lecture on the topic ‘Heated Gloves with Its competitive advantage and conductive coating in Action.” She said why this is better than wires, and why it is better than carbon nanotubes which has immerged in the recent years especially outside Asia. “It is a piece of cotton fabric that it can be heated up. You will not feel that you are wearing more than your regular clothing. It is coated all around so it doesn’t have single wires running up and down the circuit, not at all creating hotspot. It is uniformly heated over the surface. This leads to heat distribution and comfort. It is durable as it created a covalent bond on the surface of the fabric,” she said. Right now our suite of heated product is gloves, boots, insoles. We have created for boots and gloves for military purpose. Recently we have started biosensors. After the end of lectures, a question and interaction session was held in between Sayantani Nandy and Rashmi Thakur. The Webinar ended with a Vote of Thanks given by Rashmi Thakur.


EVENT UPDATES

EPC FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES MOOTED TVC Editorial Team

T

here have been many export promotion councils (EPCs) for various fields of textiles & clothing. As Technical Textile is a new subject, the government is thinking to form a separate export promotion council for Technical Textiles, said Union Minister of States for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh, during inaugurating CMAI FAB SHOW on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre, BKC, Mumbai.

Union Minister of State for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh seen inaugurating CMAI FAB SHOW by cutting the ribbon on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre at BKC, Mumbai.

The Minister further stated that during the previous government, there was no proper coordination between different ministries and nodal agencies were not functioning properly. Now, the present government under the able leadership of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, all concerned departments and ministries have smoother coordination among themselves. Hence there is no need for a new textile policy.

the corona pandemic, now India is progressing well and 21st century will belong to India. The India has achieved its export targets and now the government will announce shortly the new export targets. The Minister applauded the initiative of CMAI to organise this first of its kind Show bringing the entire Supply Chain under one roof, and appreciated the efforts of CMAI to serve the Domestic Garment Industry and its members.

Union Minister of State for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh seen addressing the Press Conference during the inauguration of CMAI FAB SHOW ribbon on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre at BKC, Mumbai. From left to right, Mr. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor – CMAI, Smt. Darshana V. Jardosh and Mr. Rajesh Masand, President – CMAI.

Mr. Rahul Mehta, Past President and now Chief Mentor of CMAI (THE Clothing Manufacturers Association of India) said that after the success of National Garment Fairs and the recently launched Vendor Sourcing Fair, CMAI has first time organised CMAI FAB SHOW. (Fabrics, Accessories & Beyond) during 11th to 13th While referring to TUF (Textiles Up gradation Funds) April 2022. It has 200 participants. Visitors and buyers Scheme, the Minister explained that though the previ- from 8 counties are visiting the show. The Fair has 3500 ous government was making announcement of various online registrations before the commencement of the schemes but not enough provision of funds for such Fair. More than 5,000 garment manufacturers, exportschemes was made. Hence the financial burden of un- ers, retailers with private labels and traders were expaid incentives of previous government has to be met pected to visit the fair. by the present government. Mr. Rajesh Masand, President – CMAI informed that She further said that after the tough period during 104

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The CMAI FAB SHOW has been supported by Two of


the biggest Associations in the Fabric Supply Chain – the FABEXA from Ahmedabad, and SGCCI from Surat. FABEXA, an arm of Ahmedabad’s famous MASKATI CLOTH MARKET MAHAJAN has participated with nearly 55 of its members, bringing to The CMAI FAB Show the full might of Ahmedabad’s strength in cotton and natural based fabrics. On the other hand, SGCCI – the South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry, one of Gujarat’s most dynamic and active Industry associations, has backed up this show with close to 45 of its members from Surat participating. Surat, often described as India’s answer to China in fabric development especially in the MMF based fabric category,

showcased its latest developments and innovations in MMF Fabrics. A unique addition to The FAB Show was the THINK OUT OF THE BOX Section, with 4 exciting and Scintillating Seminars on a variety of Subjects covering Consumer Trends, Technological Developments, and Global Fashion Landscape. The speakers included some of the biggest names in the garment Industry, along with speakers from Bangladesh, Turkey, and The Netherlands. The inaugural event was graced by Textile Commissioner Ms. Roop Rashi.

NIFT convocation ceremony TVC Editorial Team

T

he formal event of the NIFT Mumbai Convocation Ceremony was organized on 16th of April 2022 at Sophia Bhabha Hall of Sophia College Campus, Mumbai. The event was inaugurated by Chief Guest Mr. Piyush Goyal, Honorable Minister of Commerce and Industry, Minister of Consumer Affairs, Food & Public Distribution, & Minister of Textiles, Government of India. The ceremony was graced by the august

presence of esteemed guest of honour, Mr Shantmanu, IAS, Director General, NIFT & Development Commissioner, Handicrafts and Dean Academics NIFT, Prof. Dr. Vandana Narang. This year 627 students from the class of 2020 & 2021 received Undergraduate /Post Graduate Degrees from NIFT Mumbai. Director NIFT Mumbai campus presented the academic report, mentioning students, faculty and academic

MS. JOMTER KARLO Fashion Design Department won the Best Use of Traditional Skills in Contemporary Styling. Her Project collection’s name is ECHO OF ARUNACHAL. The collection shows the rich culture of the state, traditional weave patterns, practice of the Loin Loom, Importance of Sustainable Fashion and is focused on introducing modern Silhouettes and styles that haven’t been explored yet.

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of the world. “It is an achievable dream”, he said since India has the wherewithal of exquisite craft, skills and an aesthetic sensibility to make this happen. He said, “Each graduate should spend time with clusters and artisans, help upskilling them and have a concrete target of increasing their income by at least Rs. 1000 a month.

Sunaina Khetan, a student of Fashion Design Department NIFT Mumbai, has designed a garment focusing on sustainability and reusability. All elements of the collection are detachable, can be mixed, and matched to create numerous looks. To minimize fabric waste, the leftover fabric after cutting of the patterns is used in diverse ways for surface embellishment and trims. All the fabrics used are completely organic and biodegradable. Because of her unique concept and execution, she won the best design collection award.

More than 50 awards were given away for Graduation projects. The Graduation Projects in the area of Apparel design, system design, Game design, Visual Merachievements of NIFT Mumbai. It was followed by an chandizing, User Experience Design, Graphic Design, address by DG NIFT. He was talking about hybrid class- Garment Value Chain, Travel gear. The GPs were done es so that it reaches to a larger audience. He was mo- in companies like The Great Eastern Home, Rynox Gear, tivating students to develop positive habits and make Bonito Design, Boingg kids wear, Aditya Birla Fashion role models whom they can emulate helping in their and Retail Limited (Pantaloons), PVH Arvind Fashion Ltd personal and professional growth. (Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin, Welspun Group, Myntra, Raymond, Bombay Shirt, Liva by ABFRL, Bestsellers-Vera Moda, Reliance Retail Fashion and Lifestyle

Dean NIFT administered the pledge to both the graduating batches. Honourable minister Mr Piyush Goyal addressed the students greatly motivating them. He said that India had great expectations of the graduates. When they went abroad to study or for business, they should carry the India story. As ambassadors of NIFT and India they should make India the Fashion capital 106

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FASHION FOR GOOD

7 INNOVATORS JOIN FASHION FOR GOOD’S 2022 ASIA INNOVATION PROGRAMME TVC Editorial Team

F

ashion for Good has announced seven new innovators selected to participate in its 2022 Asia Innovation Programme. Chosen by Fashion for Good brand and manufacturing partners during a hybrid digital / in-person event in Mumbai from a group of innovators, the nine-month programme provides the participants with tailored support to help them scale - matching the innovators with relevant industry partners to drive piloting, implementation, and investing activities. The selected innovators joining the Fashion for Good 2022 Asia Innovation Programme are: Picvisa, Gaiacel, AN Herbals, Fermentech Labs, Sodhani Biotech, Vaayu and UKHI Hemp Foundation. “We are extremely excited to kick off our third year in Asia and continue to generate tangible impact in the region with the addition of these seven new innovations. By providing them with a platform to learn and grow, and connecting them with leading industry players, the programme offers an opportunity to drive the implementation of their solutions in the supply chain at scale.” - Priyanka Khanna, Head of Asia Expansion at Fashion for Good.

gion. Innovators AN Herbals, Fermentech Labs, Gaiacel and Sodhani Biotech, are developing unique solutions in dyeing, pretreatment and finishing from plant, forest and agricultural waste using technologies such as bioprocessing, nanocellulose and microorganisms. The remaining innovators present pioneering innovations in raw materials, impact and end-of-use, with UKHI Hemp Foundation exploring alternative materials from hemp, Vaayu tracking carbon impact through the value chain, and Picvisa enabling the recapture of value from existing materials.

Focusing on processing, one of the most impactful

As with previous selections, these innovators receive bespoke support based on the immediate requirement of each innovator to scale, as well as exposure to corporate partners and industry ecosystem players vital to their continued growth and development. The seven new innovators mark the fourth selection of innovators to participate in the Asia Innovation Programme since establishing a presence in Asia in 2020, which has supported a total of 28 innovators through the Programme.

steps in the value chain, this year’s selection of innovators are developing technologies with the potential for positive disruption within this area in the Asia re107

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CREDIT: FASHION FOR GOOD


About the innovators AN HERBALS (INDIA) An Herbals has a patented circular herbal dye extraction, herbal dyeing and bioprocessing technology, that converts waste from the forest, food and ayurvedic medicine industries to dyes that are non-toxic with self-binding, antiviral, antimicrobial, antifungal, anti odour, UV resistant and mosquito repellent properties for up to 50 washes in all textiles. FERMENTECH LABS (INDIA) Fermentech Labs is addressing the disposal of agricultural and forest residues, such as straw, peels and pine needles, through a patented biotechnology using microorganisms. They convert organic waste, otherwise destined for incineration, into industrial enzymes that are used for textile bio-polishing, desizing and bio-scouring. Along with reducing environmental carbon footprint, collecting these sustainable feedstocks ensures farmers have an alternative income stream. GAIACEL (USA) Gaiacel develops a novel dyeing innovation to make industrial rope and slasher dyeing processes sustainable and cost-effective. Their patented nanocellulose hydrogel along with dye particles sticks to textile surfaces and eliminates the need for multiple dipping, indigo reduction and additional chemicals. The process is less water and energy intensive compared to conventional indigo dyeing. PICVISA (SPAIN)

ter solubility and good colour fastness for printing and dyeing applications. UKHI HEMP FOUNDATION (INDIA) UKHI Hemp Foundation is a farm-to-market company, producing more than five hundred products from hemp, including hemp textiles, papers, bioplastics, composite, food products and medicines. They improve farmer and artisan livelihoods by training them to cultivate hemp and produce fabrics with higher hemp content using improvised fibre extraction processes. VAAYU (GERMANY) Vaayu is the world’s first automated carbon-tracking software for retailers, enabling businesses to reduce their footprint by providing accessible, real-time data to drive carbon-reduction at scale. By integrating with point-of-sale systems, such as Shopify, and leveraging proprietary AI and machine learning technology, Vaayu draws insights from production, sales and logistics to deliver a tangible solution in the fight against climate change and a more sustainable future for retail. ABOUT FASHION FOR GOOD Fashion for Good is the global platform for innovation. At its core is the Global and Asia Innovation Programme that supports disruptive innovators on their journey to scale, providing hands-on project management, access to funding and expertise, and collaborations with brands and manufacturers to accelerate supply chain implementation.

To activate individuals and industry alike, Fashion for Good houses the world’s first interactive museum dedicated to sustainable fashion and innovation to inform and empower people from across the world and creates open-source resources to action change. Fashion for Good’s programmes are supported by founding partner Laudes Foundation, co-founder William McDonough and corporate partners adidas, C&A, CHANEL, BESTSELLER, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Otto SODHANI BIOTECH (INDIA) Group, PVH Corp., Stella McCartney, Target and ZalanSodhani Biotech produces non-toxic chemical free do, and affiliate and regional partners Arvind, Birla Celnatural dyes and colours from plants, plant waste and lulose, Norrøna, Pangaia, Reformation, Teijin Frontier, microorganisms. They produce 16 natural dye extracts Vivobarefoot, Welspun and W. L. Gore & Associates. using optimised extraction processes that have result- Website: www.fashionforgood.com ed in better yields, a wider range of shades, better waPICVISA is an innovative technology-based company that designs, manufactures and supplies optical sorting and separation equipment to recover and grade textiles. PICVISA offers advanced solutions based on robotics, artificial intelligence and vision that can classify textile, fully customised to the clients needs, by its composition and colour in an efficient and automated way.

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MMF report

India - Man Made Fiber EXPORTS Product

Feb-21

Feb-22

"Jan-Feb 2021"

"Jan - Feb 2022"

% Change

POLYESTER Staple Fibre

23.31

32.77

44.06

71.71

62.76

Filament Yarn

55.42

66.4

106.49

144.51

35.70

2.47

3.7

49.80

2.86

4.71

64.69

ACRYLIC Staple Fibre

0.78

1.57 NYLON

Filament Yarn

1.58

2.38 VISCOSE

Staple Fibre

11.23

21.52

21.8

42.74

96.06

Filament Yarn

2.79

2.93

5.73

5.67

-1.05

"Jan-Feb 2021"

"Jan - Feb 2022"

% Change

IMPORTS Commodity

Feb-21

Feb-22

POLYESTER Staple Fibre

10.15

9.49

20.69

19.25

-6.96

Filament Yarn

9.81

12.16

20.94

25.78

23.11

17.45

15.98

-8.42

3.81

2.94

-22.83

ACRYLIC Staple Fibre

10.27

6.67 NYLON

Filament Yarn

1.63

1.41 VISCOSE

110

Staple Fibre

11.62

16.73

24.36

34.61

42.08

Filament Yarn

15.61

19.01

37.51

56.39

50.33

TVC | APRIL 2022


market report

INDIA’S EXPORTS OF KNITTED FABRIC WITNESS A HIKE TVC Editorial Team

K

nitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.

With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$0.18 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by 0.33 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 88.94.

There are two basic varieties of knit fabric: weft-knit and warp-knit fabric. Warp-knitted fabrics such as tricot and milanese are resistant to runs, and are commonly used in lingerie. Weft-knit fabrics are easier to make and more common. When cut, they will unravel (run) unless repaired.

With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$18.69 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$24.28 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 29.9.

Warp-knit fabrics are resistant to runs and relatively easy to sew. Raschel lace—the most common type of machine made lace—is a warp knit fabric but using many more guide-bars than the usual machines which mostly have three or four bars.

D-Exports of Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width exceeding 30 cm

E-Exports of Warp knit fabrics (including those made on galloon knitting machines) With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$2.85 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$3.37 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 18.12. F-Exports of other knitted or crocheted fabrics With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$63.74 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$111.68 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 75.22.

A-Exports of Pile fabric knit or crochet With knitted product report for processing fabric, knit or crochet worth is 3.15 million USD by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$9.19 million in JanFeb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 191.35%. B-Exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$0.94 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is decreased by 0.85 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -10.07. C-Exports of Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm

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Commodity

J a n - F e b J a n - F e b %Growth 2021 (R) 2022 (F)

A-Pile fabric, knit or crochet

3.15

9.19

191.35

B- knit or crochet fabric, nes

0.94

0.85

-10.07

C- Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm

0.18

0.33

88.94

D- Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width exceeding 30 cm

18.69

24.28

29.9

E-Warp knit fabrics (including those made on galloon knitting machines)

2.85

3.37

18.12

F-OTHER KNITTED OR CROCHETED FABRICS

63.74

111.68

75.22


market report

INDIA’S EXPORTS OF BED, TABLE, TOILET & KITCHEN LINENS WITNESS A HIKE TVC Editorial Team

F

or the most, the question of ‘what is bed linen” can be answered quite simply, however, the clearest meaning will be, the covering of any bed top or mattress. The history of bed linen dates back to 3000 BC when the Kings of Egypt will raise their beds from the floor and decorate their bed top with rich, high-quality linen. The Roman Empire also used bed linen, their mattresses were stuffed with feathers and the top of the bed was decorated with different paintings, gold, silver, and bronze. Throughout the ages bed linen has evolved to what we have now, and they are used by everyone. Moreover, bed linens were first created with a centre stitch on a rectangular fabric. Today, our linens come with hems, at the bottom and top.

bathroom. bath mat - a heavy towel or mat to stand on while drying yourself after a bath. The kitchen linen sets includes-Aprons, Napkins, Oven Gloves & Pot holders. Microwaveable bread baskets, heat proof & padded oven mittens. A-Export of Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry towelling/similar terry fabrics, of cotton With Export of toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry towelling/similar terry fabrics,of cotton worth is US$220.53 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is decreased by US$154.93 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -29.75%. B- Export of other bed linen of cotton With Export of other bed linen of cotton worth is US$53.26 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$156.26 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 193.36%. C- Export of other bed linen of cotton, printed

With Export of other bed linen of cotton worth is US$7.15 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$19.88 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and Table linen is any piece of cloth used to preserve and had an annual growth of the exports increased by protect your dining table. Table linens are used to 177.86%. make sure any food or liquid spills are caught by the D- Export of Table linen, knitted or crocheted cloth, and the table linens are washed after every With Export of Table linen, knitted or crocheted worth meal to keep them looking neat and clean. Table linis US$8.72 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is deens include accessories such as table cloths, table napcreased by US$8.14 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had kins, table runners, table placemats, and more. Table an annual growth of the exports decreased by -6.63%. linens are a really important part of hosting guests, too, as table linens give off the vibe that you are well E- Export of Bed linen, knitted or crocheted prepared to serve, and that you are not at all stingy With Export of Bed linen, knitted or crocheted worth is when it comes to these luxuries. Linens for use in the US$8.07 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is de112

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creased by US$7.25 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had port decreased by US$1.55 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) an annual growth of the exports decreased by -10.17 and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by %. -32.2%. F- Export of Other bed linen of other textile materials M- Export of other linen of man-made fibres With Export of Other bed linen of other textile materials worth is US$5.03 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$5.64 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 12.25%.

With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$0.26 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export increased by US$1.79 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 583.18%.

G- Export of other linen of cotton

N- Export of printed bed linen of other textile materials

With Export of other linen of cotton worth is US$5.74 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export decreased by With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres US$4.46million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual worth is US$0.21million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and exgrowth of the exports decreased by -22.3%. port is increased by US$0.49million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by H-Export of other table linen of cotton 128.47%. With Export of other linen of cotton worth is US$2.94 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export decreased by O- Export of other table linen of man-made fibres US$2.85 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres growth of the exports decreased by -2.85%. worth is US$0.07million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export increased by US$0.27million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) I- Export of printed bed linen of man-made fibres and had an annual growth of the exports increased by With Export of printed bed linen of man-made fibres 305.99%. worth is 2.68 million USD by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and exCommodity Jan-Feb 2021 Jan-Feb 2022 %Growth port decreased by 1.73 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) (R) (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by A 220.53 154.93 -29.75 -35.36%. B

53.26

156.26

193.36

C

7.15

19.88

177.86

D

8.72

8.14

-6.63

E

8.07

7.25

-10.17

F

5.03

5.64

12.25

G

5.74

4.46

-22.3

H

2.94

2.85

-2.85

I

2.68

1.73

-35.36

J

1.6

3.69

130.51

K

1.33

1.22

-8.08

L

2.29

1.55

-32.2

M

0.26

1.79

583.18

L- Export of other linen of other textile materials

N

0.21

0.49

128.47

With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$2.29 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex-

O

0.07

0.27

305.99

J- Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$1.6 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$3.69 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 130.51%. K- Export of other table linen of other textile material With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$1.33 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export decreased by US$1.22 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -8.08%.

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show calendar

May 2022 2nd

SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGIES FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES

13th

THE DENIM MARKET SUS TAIN ABILITY & FUTURE

WEBINAR

POSSIBILITIES

https://www.vdma.org/en/

CONFERENCE

5th-7th

YARNEX/ F&A Show/ Denim Expo

https://www.denimshow.com/

Mumbai, India

14th-17th

Domotex Gaziantep, Turkey

https://textilefairsindia.com/ 09th-11th

International Apparel and Textile Fair

https://www.domotexturkey. com/en

Dubai, UAE

17th-19th

Techtextil North America 2022

https://www.internationalappare landtextilefair.com/

12th-14th

Atlanta, USA

GARTEX

https://us.messefrankfurt.com/at lanta/en.html

Mumbai, India

17th-21th

HOMETEX

https://www.gartexindia.com/

Istanbul, Turkey

13th

Sustainable Solutions Garment Manu facturers

https://hometex.com.tr/en/ events/

MUMBAI

31th -03rd

FESPA GLOBAL PRINT EXPO 2022

https://sdc.org.uk/event/sustain able-solutions-garment-manufac turers/

BERLIN,GERMANY

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TVC | APRIL 2022

https://www.fespa.com/en/ events/2022/fespa-glob al-print-expo-2022


8 EDITION th

Exclusive Exhibition on

NONWOVEN TECH ASIA

Nonwoven & Hygiene

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE

23 24 25 SEPTEMBER 2022

Industries

Pragati Maidan, Delhi, India

BOOK YOUR STALL NOW

Supported By

Organized By

Supported By

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TVC | APRIL 2022

+91 91734 40725

Industry Support

Exclusive Stall Designing Partner

sales@nonwoventechasia.com

Sponsored By

www.nonwoventechasia.com


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Supplier of :

We are Glossy Group of companies located in Gujarat (India)... Well known, government recognised export house for Raw Cotton, Yarn and Fabric from India. For Cotton, we annually exports around 800,000 bales (approx 130,000 mt). Our own ginning capcity per day is more than 600 mt. For Yarn, we supply count ranges from Ne 10s to 40s, in Carded, Combed, and Open End, for Knitting and Weaving Both In fabric we deals in both Knitted and weaving, Greige and Finished for Garment Manufacturing.

CONTACT US MR. KEVAL VARA MOBILE NO. - +91-7567999994 EMAIL - KEVAL@GLOSSY.IN

MR. VIPUL GHODASARA MOBILE NO. - +91-9825032838 EMAIL - VIPUL@GLOSSY.IN

www.glossy.in

MR. HARSH SARADAVA MOBILE NO. - +91-9033369068 EMAIL - GLOSSYTEXTILE@GMAIL.COM


GO DIGITAL WITH US Full Page Advertisement in E-Magazine Banner on www.textilevaluechain.in Home Page Social Media Promotion in TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Customised Email Marketing Banner in Weekly Newsletter Online Directory Listing in www.textilevaluechain.in Recruitment Solution through Job Portal www.textileappareljobs.com (365 days) LET YOUR BUSINESS WORKS DIGITALLY INVEST TIME PRODUCTIVELY

MD. TANWEER +91 9167986305, SALES@TEXTILEVALUECHAIN.COM 70 TVC | Jan 2022




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