issue4/vol2
GOING GREEN ECO DESIGNERS STRIVE TO SAVE THE PL ANET...ONE SUSTAINABLE PIECE AT A TIME
AMERICAN WOMAN A TRIBUTE TO AMERICAN STYLE photographed by DAMION SANDONE
CAROL HANNAH photographed by
CARSTEN FLECK
PLUS ...THE WEBSITES WE LOVE, BOUTIQUES WE CHERISH, OUR TOP BEAUTY PICKS AND FASHION FAVES
MA FASHION STUDIES In this groundbreaking program—launching in fall 2010— students will engage in the evolving field of fashion studies. They will explore fashion as object, image, practice, theory, and concept using an interdisciplinary approach and develop a critical understanding of its complex global intersections with identities, histories, and cultures in the contemporary world. Based in the School of Art and Design History and Theory at Parsons, part of The New School, a leading university in New York City, the MA in Fashion Studies offers a new academic route for students who want to pursue careers in fashion research, education, and the cultural industries. www.newschool.edu/mafs7 Also launching in Fall 2010 MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY This rigorous interdisciplinary practice-based program will enable students to confront real-world challenges in fashion design, training them to become not only outstanding designers and savvy business leaders but also responsible and engaged global citizens. For more information, visit www.newschool.edu/fds.
editors.note
NEW BEGINNINGS I was recently laid-off. (No, TFJ isn’t our full-time career...yet.) During the beginning of my laid-offdom, I went through the gamut of emotions, which some of you may relate to. First, I was angry. Then, I was hopeful. Next, I was sad. Then, I started smoking, (for no other reason than sheer boredom and the need for something to calm my anxious nerves.) Then, I was indifferent, complacent and eventually, somewhat happy. It took me a few months, but I finally realized something GOOD that came out of being laid off – I was humbled. In a world of “wants,” “needs” no longer have a place in society. (I realized this after living a few weeks with my unemployment check as my only source of income.) I stopped the incessant shopping. Cooked dinner everynight. And learned how to just be happy with life and enjoy it with the people that I love. I’ll admit, these were things that I hardly ever thought about when I was employed, making great money and was overworked and overstressed. During my “employed” period, my biggest concern was saving for a house, what color Jimmy Choo’s I wanted and deciding
where to jet-set off to for our next vacation. Bah! The things we all take for granted are things we’d truly be empty without. I’m actually ok with not being a workaholic anymore, not making six figures and not thinking about what I WANT, but instead thinking about what MAKES ME HAPPY. In this issue, we hope to bring all these realizations to the forefront. Easy, classic fashion. Sustainable pieces. And designers who stay true to their roots and beliefs. From our American Woman spread to our Going Green section, we’re all about the basics in life. The essentials. What truly makes us consumers, and what we should think about before we make that “final” purchase. Please enjoy this issue and wherever you are in life. I always hope people acquire what they desire most, but remember what it took for them to get it. So, if you’re feeling like I felt a few months back, don’t get discouraged. Look around, take a breath and keep believing. I promise you, once you do this, you’ll realize that you posess the most important thing anybody can own – happiness.
Jen Gesimondo Editor in Chief
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WINTER EDITION/10
06
WHERE HAS TFJ BEEN?
The people, places and things we’ve seen in 2009
019
GOING GREEN
We love our Earth this much...and so should you!
031
ALLISON WONDERLAND
This Canadian import speaks volumes about design, culture and fashion
034
HEIDI HAT/HEIDI BOTTOM From skiwear to everywhere...
08
CAROL HANNAH
Project Runway’s “People’s Champion” gives us the exclusive about the show and her line
039
ELISE BERGMAN
Elegance and sophistication with a youthful twist
040
MARGO MANHATTAN
On designing her symbolic pins for Earth Day, AIDS awareness and Breast Cancer
046
SUZANNAH
Modern vintage. Structured and sleek
042 ANKE LOH
Her designs are more than just textile and shape, they’re freedom and experimentation the fashion journal _ winter 2009 [3]
071
AMERICAN WOMAN A tribute to the ideas and styles that shape America and the American Woman
049
068
Our fashion faves for Spring 2010
We speak to the makeup artist and costume designer for Cirque’s new show, “OVO”
FABULOUS SPRING FINDS
060 BEAUTY
Get your beauty on! Fabulous finds from makeup to hair care
Q&A: CIRQUE DU SOLEIL
084
ARTIST APPRECIATION
An artist and a furniture maven discuss their passion for creativity issue4/vol2
GOING GREEN
ECO DESIGNER’S STRIVE TO SAVE THE PL ANET ONE FASHION STAPLE AT A TIME
088
WEBSITE OF THE MINUTE
AMERICAN WOMAN
Some new Websites we love...and think you will too!
A TRIBUTE TO AMERICAN STYLE photographed by DAMION SANDONE
CAROL HANNAH photographed by
CARSTEN FLECK
PLUS ...OUR TOP BEAUTY PICKS, FASHION FAVES, WEBSITES WE LOVE AND BOUTIQUES WE CHERISH
ON THE COVER: necklace AQUA at BLOOMINGDALES rings TARA LYNN www.taralynndesigns.com dress CAROL HANNAH www.carol-hannah.com stylist SARAH SHIRLEY art director ERICA MANISCALCO makeup/hair SHANE TERENZI CAROL HANNAH in her own design [4] the fashion journal_winter 2010
091
SHOPPING: BOUTIQUES WE LOVE
A handful of our boutique obsessions from around the globe
095
SHOPPING: WHERE TO BUY
[tfj] contributors
ISSUE 4/VOL2 editor-in-chief JEN GESIMONDO executive producer PETRA VINCENT beauty editor ERICA MANISCALCO fashion editor LYNDA DITURI market editor SARAH GLEESON west coast rep. MEGAN BECKER v.p. support JAIME COLLINS contributing photographers ISAAC BEARMAN, CARSTEN FLECK, CHELSEA FRANKS, DAMIAN SANDONE contributing writters CHRIS KENNEDY, TOM NONDORF LISA MOORE, LISA RICHARDSON contributing stylists/make-up SARAH SHIRLEY, SHANE TERENZI ROWSHANA JACKSON, JASON BUI KANAYO EDO
JENNIFER GESIMONDO Things to know about me: I am a die-hard Yankees fan. I LOVE chocolate and chunky jewelry. I can’t stand cats. I am co-owner of TFJ and run it with one of my best friends in the whole world! I was a sports writer for my college paper and now write about fashion. My hopes and dreams: to one day build TFJ up to Vogue or Vanity Fair “level,” to be able to hire a staff to help us out and to have a great working environment for my family and friends to contribute to. Oh, yeah, and to be able to afford season box seats at Yankee Stadium.
PETRA VINCENT Ok, I’m going to make this as quick and painless as I possibly can. Co-Founder/Creative Director/Web developer/Publisher/Night Owl are just a few titles that I’m going by this week. I am the other half of the dynamic duo who expose you to the great inspirations you read about in TFJ. I am responsible for the function and theory, in other words, the “HOW” to Editor-In-Chief Jen Gesimondo’s “WHAT.”
LYNDA DITURI The Fashion Journal isn’t just a means of expression for me, it’s a lifestyle. As the Fashion Editor for TFJ, I live and breathe fashion and give it back to you in all the best finds that are out there. Fashion to me is more that what’s “hot” at the moment, but about the culture of the world and how we find our place in it. It’s about individuality and expression. My specialty is web scouting, I can find just about anything on the Internet. You name it, I can email it to you in under 2 minutes!
ERICA MANISCALCO Erica Maniscalco has become one of the most sought-after talents in the realm of beauty. Her flawless signature makeup looks range from clean simplicity to bold bursts of color. Famous for her customized application, designed to highlight a client’s best feature, she creates a beautiful sexiness and glow that range from a perfect day look to red carpet hollywood glamour.
publisher TFJ PUBLISHING www.thefashionjournal.com THE FASHION JOURNAL, LLC 921 washington avenue, 5d brooklyn, ny 11225 347 365 36549 www.thefashionjournal.com ©2010 The Fashion Journal is published (4) four, times a year by TFJ Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from an authorized signatory of The Fashion Journal, LLC. The views expressed in The Fashion Journal are those of the respected contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. The Fashion Journal welcomes new contributors, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, illustrations, etc.
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [5]
Where has TFJ Been? For the past few years, TFJ has been jet-setting to numerous charity events, boutique openings and fashion shows around the country, but we haven’t brought you along...until now! See where we’ve ended up, (and where our magazines landed), during our travels.
Monthly Art Salon Party at Gilles Larrain Studio. (Pictured Lourda Larrain) www.artsalonparty.org
The Creative Time Slumber Party launching Limited Edition Pajamas by Will Cotton, produced by Exquisite Apparel, in association w/ Phillips-Van Heusen. [left] Casey Spooner & Lauren Flax [right] Peekaboo Point, Rebekah Madebach, Murphy Maxwell. www.creativetime.org (photos by Sam Horine, courtesy Creative Time)
NYC Privé presents, “The Swimwear Runway Show by Belabunda” at The World Bar. Included was a performance by Meg Buckley, from P’Diddy’s “Making his Band.” www.belabunda.com, www.nycprive.com (photo by Lance Beden)
Adam Kluger PR hosts Botox and Sangria at Sazon in Tribeca (Pictured Dr. Matthew Bonanno) www.adamklugerpr.com
The 19th Annual Gotham Independent Film Awards ceremony held at Cipriani Wall Street. Sponsored by The New York Times. Guests included Anthony Mackie, Willem Dafoe, Natalie Portman and many more. www.gotham.ifp.org
Cece Gonzales, Jen Gesimondo and Melinda Joseph at the Shop In Chicago event at the Drake Hotel, Chicago. Hosted by Cece and Melinda, sponsored by TFJ. www.ceceandmelinda.com
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The Stephen Siller Children’s Foundation launched its first annual Gala fundraiser held at the Cipriani Wall Street. Among the list of attendees were: Rudolph Giuliani, John Turturro, George Martin and Davina Reeves. The event was put together by the Fresh connection group. www.tunneltotowersrun.org, www.freshconnections.org (photos by Peggy Wei)
The premiere of “The Loss of a Teardrop Diamond” presented by Niche Media’s Gotham Magazine. Pictured [left] The cast which included Jessica Collins, Ellen Burstyn, Bryce Dallas, Jodie Markell, Marin Ireland and Zoe Perry. (photos courtesy of Gotham Magazine)
Tt collection Pop-up store event, Beverly Hills, LA. Pictured: Tt collection designer, Tiffany Saidnia. www.ttcollection.com
Fred Segal, Coco Eco Magazine and Greenbees Presented a sustainable event hosted by Rachael Leigh Cook, benefitting Toys for Tots. pictured [top left] Rebecca Mink. www.minkshoes.com [top right] Greenbee creators. www.shopgreenbees.com
Shorty Clothing “Rock Meets Rococo” fashion show with The Friends of Gorton, Lake Forest, IL. (Catherine Hudon, Ada Boras) www.shortyclothing.com
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [7]
PROJECT RUNWAY’S PEOPLE’S CHAMPION, C AROL HANNAH WHITFIELD
to
REALITY photographed by CARSTEN FLECK. Written by TOM NONDORF. [8] the fashion journal_winter 2010
necklace AQUA at BLOOMINGDALES clothing provided by CAROL HANNAH www.carol-hannah.com CAROL HANNAH in her own design the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [9]
i
f you’ve been a consistent viewer of fashion survival show Project Runway, you know that last season had a slightly different air about it. The move of the show from Bravo to Lifetime just meant flipping the remote to a different number, and the location switch from New York to LA provided a different background and some fresh location shoots. The judges
point, blogs and tweets were ablaze, as many thought Irina, (and second place finisher Althea Harper), had been bested by an underdog from South Carolina, a girl with no runway experience outside of Charleston, no formal training and no connections in the biz: Carol Hannah Whitfield, the People’s Champion. Irina and Althea both produced runway collections that looked like what
“SOME PEOPLE THINK ABOUT THINGS A LONG TIME. I’M MORE LIKE, ‘OOH, THAT’S PRETTY, LET’S MAKE ONE NOW.’ IT’S MORE OF A PRACTICAL THING BECAUSE I STARTED OUT MAKING THINGS FOR REAL PEOPLE, NOT MODELS, NOT FOR SHOWS, THINGS THAT REAL WOMEN WERE WEARING.” were a little more inconsistently deployed than in seasons past—Michael Kors, for instance, was popping in and out at random intervals like a phantom. But the biggest vibe differential was that, until about the last three episodes, the cast of designers seemed like generally pleasant folks who got along and wanted to do good work. Some viewed this as a detriment, aka, boring. I found it quite refreshing. Eventual champion, Irina Shabayeva, made for the closest thing to a villainess with her cool assessments of her competition, but she was merely frank, and far from the caustic wit of a Santino Rice from season two. In fact, void of a designer everyone loved to hate, the show really didn’t have any controversy until it ended. At that [10] the fashion journal_winter 2010
many think a stylized high-end fashion collection should look like: “conceptual” and “edgy,” with war helmets and epic sleeves that made models look like cool Dr. Seuss creatures. In contrast, Carol Hannah’s Duke University campus-inspired gowns connected with people more on an “I’d like to wear that!” level, a fact that she has seen reflected in an email box overflowing with orders and design requests. “There are two different camps of opinion—critics and consumers. I’d much rather have the consumers because they’re going to keep me going,” she tells me while hand-cutting her popular leather belts in her new design space in New York’s fashion district. Carol Hannah, who was only 23 when the show began, had only briefly been to NYC prior
tshirt LOGAN NEITZEL www.loganneitzel.com jewlery STYLIST’S OWN boots DESIGNER’S OWN
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [11]
rings TARA LYNN www.taralynndesigns.com necklace provided by CAROL HANNAH shoes POUR LA VICTOIRE www.plvstudio.com
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to her Runway involvement. Now she shares a space in the heart of the design universe with two fellow contestants, Rodney Epperson and Logan Neitzel. Carol Hannah lost a few points in the Runway finale for her collection not having a “story” running through it, according to judges. Although she feels it was there if one looked for it, she also freely admits that “conceptual” ain’t her thing. “Some people think about things a long time. I’m more like, ‘Ooh, that’s pretty, let’s make one now.’ It’s more of a practical thing because I started out making things for real people, not models, not for shows, things that real women were wearing. I think that’s why people relate to me, and viewers get my aesthetic and want to buy it because it’s real.” Carol Hannah’s design reality was a part of her life long before reality TV came calling. A self-described gawky kid without the best social skills, she started sewing at the age of eight, enjoyed it as a hobby for a long time, then started making things for weddings through high school and college. “I never really made a collection or attempted to get into stores,” she says. “Everything was custom. I entered this contest in Charleston and won, so I made a collection for that, then immediately after that tried out for Project Runway. Then all of a sudden I’m in LA.” During the show, she flew under the radar for a while before emerging as an underdog, and ultimately her untrained approach brought her freshness to the fore. “Schools can become designer factories and crank out all the same designer. It is interesting to see what people
“MAKING DRESSES MAKES ME HAPPY, AND THAT MAKES OTHER PEOPLE HAPPY, AND THAT’S THE GOAL.”
do when left to their own devices. Some of my construction is kind of innovative because it was something I figured out how to do on my own, I wasn’t told how to do it. Wing it, and interesting things happen.” This attitude got her to Runway’s Bryant Park finale, then…BIG PAUSE. It is standard Project Runway practice that when the final designers prepare for Bryant Park, they are essentially in seclusion while working on their collections. That means friends back home can’t know what they are doing, and how does one make new friends while in the midst of something like that? Meanwhile, Carol Hannah became infamously ill just as Fashion Week rolled around and got to spend what should have been her most glorious hours roiled in fever and phlegm. She and the other two finalists also endured the torment of the show being mothballed for an eternity while Bravo and Lifetime sorted out their legal differences. Not a good time, Carol Hannah says. Looking back at the time of sequester, sickness and waiting for the show to air, Carol Hannah can now think about what she might have done differently to the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [13]
rings TARA LYNN www.taralynndesigns.com
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win over the judges. “At the time of the show, I wouldn’t have done anything differently. [“Runway” mentor] Tim Gunn was standing there with me [at Br yant Park] and he was like, ‘You should be so proud of this collection.’ There wasn’t anything I would have changed at that point. A year out, I’ve changed, I’ve been in New York for over a year. I’ve evolved a lot as a designer. I see the things I should have edited a little bit. Every piece in that collection I loved, and I think they are all strong pieces, but there was so much pressure. You end up tr ying to show ever y single thing you can do all at once.” Lesson learned. With the shows now aired and her sense of style both vindicated and exalted by the masses, Carol Hannah has gotten back to basics, an approach that was always organic to her: “Making dresses makes me happy, and that makes other people happy, and that’s the goal.” Now she is applying that philosophy not to winning a TV show but running her business and beyond. Her online business is her core. Her clothes are in specialty boutiques. Her bridal line goes to market in April. She does her own marketing, production and customer service and is looking to grow her company to the point where it can make an impact on things beyond fashion. “I got into this business because I was this really scrawny, awkward kid with all these self-esteem problems. I would like to partner up and do something that negates the effects that fashion has on young girls.” That’s the kind of noble goal one
expects from the People’s Champion, and the People have so far shown their support not just through orders and inquiries but through encouraging emails and letters. A spike in those emails came in the wake of her experiencing another rite of passage of the successful designer: having her work ripped off. People watching the American Music Awards a couple days after the Runway finale aired were certain Carrie Underwood was wearing one of the cutest dresses in Carol Hannah’s collection, albeit converted to a jumpsuit with shorts for the singer. Carol Hannah’s dad was the first to contact her with the news. Then her inbox exploded. Alas, the work wasn’t hers. That is, it was hers, but it wasn’t hers. “At first I thought maybe I should be quiet and vague about it and people will think it is mine, but then I thought, ‘I wouldn’t have done it that way.’ It’s frustrating because they didn’t do the best job they could have done. If you’re going to copy something, at least make it as good as the original or better. I don’t think it was Carrie or her stylist. It goes back to the person who made the dress. I think it is ironic that that designer is on this new show on Bravo called Launch My Line.” In the end, she got some buzz and press, which is always good, and her sense of style was once again validated in a major, theft-as-flattery way. And with the People’s Champion, one gets the feeling that there is going to be very little that stops her from reaching that goal of hers: making herself—and the People—happy. the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [15]
necklace AQUA, R.J. GRAZIANO, & TARA LYNN cuff ALEXIS BITTAR rings TARA LYNN
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stylist SARAH SHIRLEY art director ERICA MANISCALCO makeup/hair SHANE TERENZI model LAUREN from CODE MANAGEMENT
The Stephen Siller Children's Foundation Partners with NY Fresh Connections, Inspiring Us All To Do Good THE STEPHEN SILLER CHILDREN’S FOUNDATION was pleased to partner with innovative event and community service non-profit, New York Fresh Connections, (www.NYFreshConnections.org), to host the first annual Stephen Siller Children's Foundation Gala, held at Cipriani Wall Street in Manhattan on December 5, 2009. Former Mayor of New York City, Rudolph Giuliani served as Honoree Chair. Actor John Turturro and Executive Director of the NFL Alumni Association, founder of A Journey for 9/11 and American Hero, George Martin, served as Honorary Heroes. On September 11, 2001, off-duty New York Fire Fighter Stephen Siller — a father of five and himself an orphan by age 10 — heard about the deaths and devastation in lower Manhattan. Stephen’s determination and unyielding dedication to others, compelled him to turn towards the disaster, strap 80 pounds of gear on his back and run from the Brooklyn Battery Tunnel to the Twin Towers. Stephen gave his life to save fellow New Yorkers and global citizens that day. The Stephen Siller Children’s Foundation was created
just months later, and is now known for its Tunnel to Towers Run (www.tunneltotowersrun. org). Attended by 25,000 people annually, the run was created in honor of all who gave their lives to help protect others on September 11, 2001, and for those who serve America in the line of duty every day. Honoring and supporting the men, women and families who serve our country through the Military, is the cornerstone of the organization. Each Veteran’s Day, the Foundation hosts a Golf Tournament, Operation Support, which raises funds to build “Homes for Heroes.” Veteran’s Day 2010 will mark the 3rd annual fundraiser, and will mark a significant national expansion for the Foundation. The Foundation also works closely with causes that support young people. The New York Foundling — a safe place for orphaned children, partners with the Siller organization, providing resources to children who have lost one or both parents in the line of duty. The Foundation also works on building Homes for Hero’s, the Wounded Warrior Project, FDNY Pediatric Burn Centers, KIDSAVE and the Freedom and Alliance Scholarship.
Fundraisers would not be possible without the help of volunteers. If you are interested in getting involved, please email StephenSillerFoundation@gmail.com, or visit www.StephenSillerFoundationGala.org for more information.
Dufferin Tunic NOW designer, FERAL CHILDE www.feralchilde.com
GOING GREEN! Yes, it’s true. We’re jumping on the ECO bandwagon as well. But why not?! What’s good enough for the Earth, is good enough for us. In the next few pages, we revisit with some eco-conscious designers that were featured in past issues and invite some new ones in as well. So take a look at what’s materializing, literally, from the ground up!
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[going green!] NOW Showcase
The NOW Showcase “With more and more groups like NOW collaborating without ego, the sustainable design field grows stronger, ever the more influential and truly better professionally.” – Amy DuFault, Fashion Editor of Ecosalon.com
Amy Dufault is the Fashion Editor of Ecosalon.com, an environmentally consciousness website that believes style and sustainability belong in the same sentence and that living green is fun, not fussy. Ecosalon publishes 20 posts per week about Fashion, Decor, Wellness, News and Lifestyle including original features, interviews and breaking stories, special weekly columns and daily posts that help you discover useful tips and trends. Amy DuFault has been writing about fashion and design for 10 years and when not falling in love with beautiful clothes, she can be found supporting green affordable housing and helping to promote sustainable clothing events such as NOW.
NOW is a forum of the newest in progressive, conscious-minded, independent, locally produced fashion, accessory and lifestyle product designs. The NOW Showcase, a well-appointed collective of women’s and menswear, accessories, organic body care and lingerie for wholesale viewings, took place on September 20-21, 2009, in New York City. It featured 20 eco-designers in thelab, an integrated production studio and sustainable space powered by wind energy from upstate New York. The 2010 NOW Showcase will be at the ICO Gallery, Sunday, February 21st from 6pm - 8pm. www.nowshowcase.org
NOW SHOWCASE PARTICIPANTS
FERAL CHILDE For our first issue 5 years ago, we featured Feral Childe as an up-and-coming design team with a passion for artistic and structural designs and a love of unique and exclusive, not mass-produced, pieces. We caught back up with Alice Wu and Moriah Carlson to discuss the growth of their clothing line, Feral Childe, and their newfound love of sustainability. When Alice and Moriah first met, it was over a sink full of broken eggshells they were hired to wash for an art installation. The fast friends imagined creating a [20] the fashion journal_winter 2010
Spring 2010 “The Hills Are Alive” photo by FERAL CHILDE model Isabella David hair & makeup Arielle Toelke styling Toto Feldman
[going green!] NOW Showcase compact wardrobe for their new lives in New York. In their daily jobs, each worked in an office and faxed the other drawings and ideas every morning. In their off-hours, the pair scoured downtown for uncommon fabrics, tried their creations on each other, and draped and slashed at the clothes until they were satisfied. Alice and Moriah made up stories to go along with the results of this wild and untamed creative process and called it FERAL CHILDE. Taking their outfits to the streets, passersby stopped them on subways and in stairwells, asking where they could buy such clothes. Feral Childe's playful
silhouettes and curiously elegant tailoring gained a devoted following, at home and abroad, among young and old, traditionalists and renegades. Today, Feral Childe is represented by independent-minded stockists who display Feral Childe clothing and accessories among their rarest finds. FERAL CHILDE is Brooklyn-based and locally produced. From the silk-screened original textile prints to the sewing and finishing of the garments with sculpted resin buttons, FERAL CHILDE is made in New York. www.feralchilde.com
I Love Ryann doesn’t believe in fashion trends. They think trends are dull and predictable and lead to cheap, throwaway clothing. They also don’t believe in boring. To Ryann, boring is well, boring, and who wants to be boring? What they do believe in is creative style that stands the test of time. Designer Raina Blyer, a long time seamstress and designer, started Ryann in the summer of 2005, with the idea to use fashion as a platform for environmental and social issues. According to Raina, she wanted her business to be run with love, creativity, responsibility and integrity that could inspire others to do the same. Ryann’s mission is to create collections of original, functional pieces that are made as sustainably as possible by using only organic, natural, recycled, and sustainable fabrics. To ensure fair trade labor and high quality, all of their garments are sewn by local, fair trade factories, so you get pieces that always look fresh and that last. Ryann is proud to be supporting local businesses that promote earth friendly
photographer TONO RADNAVY
I LOVE RYANN
agriculture, which leads to ensuring jobs and strengthening local economies. Ryann is not only a sustainable clothing line; it’s an investment in yourself, your community, and the planet as a whole. That is one trend we can believe in. www.iloveryann.com the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [21]
[going green!] NOW Showcase
JAI ACTIVEWEAR Jai is a contemporary designer brand that promotes sustainable holistic approaches to fashion and style. The current active wear collection is produced locally in NYC, boasting versatile silhouettes made for women on the go. Styles with sandals, sneakers, boots or heels, Jai dresses women focused on quality, confidence and style, making them ambassadors of contemporary elegance. Kizzy Jai Knight, creator/designer of Jai, was born and raised in the South of England, majoring in dance at The Liverpool Institute of the Performing Arts and continuing her lust for fashion and creativity in NYC. Kizzy has worked on projects for Harper’s Bazaar, Eye Candy, Prophecy Magazine, Trace, New York Moves and Sister to Sister. “As a dancer and choreographer, I learned about the fluidity of fabrics and how clothing should compliment and assist the body,” Kizzy said. “Styling created opportunities that contextualized these discoveries and gave me a platform for testing and developing ideas with a mainstream audience.” Dissatisfied with the machine of the fashion industr y, and with the culture of recycling always at the forefront of Kizzy’s life, she looked into holistic living and maintained work-study positions at yoga studios in NY, from which a designer’s co-op emerged. The collective developed a recycling, regenerative project module for children that would inspire young people to creatively reevaluate ideas of consumerism and waste. Kizzy has been freelancing with Showroom Seven for 3 years where she reps designers from 6 out of 7 continents as well as managing Outlet 7, a boutique [22] the fashion journal_winter 2010
photographer ANDREW LINDY LOU ROUSE makeup VERONICA REID
in the East Village of NYC, owned by the same company. Watching fashion trends and changes come and go, Kizzy created Jai, a brand designing, producing and selling eco and socially conscious clothing that bridges the gap between comfort, fashion, style and sustainability. www.jaiactivewear.com
[going green!] NOW Showcase
Naturevsfuture® is an artistic expression of organic futurism via clothing. Blending innovative, sculptural design with natural and sustainable fabrics, naturevsfuture® is designed with an eco-conscious approach. NVF acknowledges the increased environmental concerns and the need to preserve and respect our earth while advancing. Naturevsfuture® was born in the spring of 2002 by Brooklyn-born Nina Valenti, a Parson’s graduate who felt the need to create her own line of clothing that would blend her passion for architecture, furniture, music and art and her belief that there is a constant struggle between nature and future, a pressure between organic forces and technological ones. Valenti chooses to incorporate more and more organic, sustainable, renewable, and biodegradable materials in the collection each season. Mixing such fabrics like organic cotton, organic wool, hemp, soy, bamboo, seacell®, (seaweed), lyocell, (wood pulp), Ingeo™, (created from corn), along with recycled and technological fabrics such as Polartec®, (made from soda pop bottles or industry waste), she creates pieces that have a futuristic edge yet are inherently classic. For such a young line naturevsfuture®, has received a promising amount of positive attention from the press including reviews in WWD, Italian Vogue, ELLEgirl, Nylon, Fader, Lucky, The New York Times, Time Magazine, Time Out New York, E The Environmental Magazine, The Ecologist (London), to name a few, as well as website magazines such as Treehugger, The Huffington Post, JC Report, Trendcentral, The VillageVoice.com, Daily Candy & Mightyflirt.com. Valenti’s clothing has been spotted on
photographer FIONNA ABOUD
NATUREVSFUTURE
celebrities like: Tina Faye, Parker Posey & Deborah Harry. Naturevsfuture® has also made TV appearances on the ‘Today Show,’ ‘Late Night with David Letterman,’ on actress Lauren Graham and on ‘General Hospital.’ Naturevsfuture® has also appeared on the ‘Gilmore Girls’ and on ‘What Not to Wear’ (on the well dressed host, of course). Valenti was also asked to design the uniforms for the restaurant Riingo located in the Alex Hotel in NYC. Riingo opened in January of 2004 with the staff wearing naturevsfuture® shirts, pouches and cocktail dresses. Valenti also designed the uniforms for the retro, chic restaurant Vinyl, which opened in August of 2006 in Cincinnati, Ohio. The collection is produced locally in NYC. www.naturevsfuture.com the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [23]
[going green!] NOW Showcase
RESTORE CLOTHING RESTORE is an acronym: Responsible, Earth Friendly, Sustainable, Technological, Organic, Recycled and Ergonomic. The brand name is exactly what it stands for…a collection of beautifully crafted performance and everyday sportswear perfect for the active lifestyles of today’s socially responsible person. Long time New York City residents, Anthony and Celeste Lilore, launched RESTORE™ CLOTHING in 2007 to share their commitment and passion to create timeless, fitness-inspired, luxurious clothing. Married in 1991, they formed a business and life partnership forged through years of achievement in the garment industry, and have been creating and producing apparel in the heart of New York’s Garment Center since 1994. It was in the research and development of active wear pieces for Exhale Spa’s and Crunch Gym’s that stirred the Lilore’s latest labor of love. Also, for years, Celeste’s battle with a number of serious allergies has drawn her to study the healing modalities as well as the restorative properties of fabrics and apparel. “We realized we could blend our passions for wellness and the environment with our business, and RESTORE Clothing was born,” said Anthony. RESTORE clothing uses certified organic cottons grown without the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides in the United States, to create a soft and luxurious, yet durable item. For styles that require a more technical fabric, the Lilore’s began by using Unifi’s REPREVE®, synthetic yarns made from recycled materials. Additionally, they use REPREVE® recycled polyester made from 80% pre-consumer and 20% post-consumer recycled materials, (including soda bottles). [24] the fashion journal_winter 2010
photographer RAINER JURGENS
Now perfected, RESTORE CLOTHING was the first brand to bring this state of the art fabric to market in Fall 2009. Anthony and Celeste believe that the new paradigm in NYC apparel design and production is “think globally, act locally.” Grow, RESTORE, and Re-Grow. Produce, RESTORE, Reproduce. RESTORE has been featured in Apparel Magazine, Ecotextile News, Spa Magazine, Textile Insight, and Women’s Wear Daily, among others. www.restoreclothing.com
Vaute Couture We love it when designers have an amazing passion for what they create. And Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart of Vaute Couture is no exception. Her passion for eco-conscious clothing and the use of ethical fabrics and methods that considers animals, the earth and humankind is what we applaud, and hope that other people will too!
photographer JEFF STELLA models JENNIFER WICK/ FORD CHICAGO, AND KYLE BRYLIN
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [25]
[going green!] Vaute Couture
photographer JEFF STELLA models CAITLIN P/ FORD CHICAGO
This twenty-seven year old is an activist first, entrepreneur second, and artist always. Named “20 under 30” by VegNews Magazine, her life has been a series of social ventures, campaigns, and collaborations for the animals, earth and community including a push for dissection alternatives in her high school that led to national support for a bill turned law, thus allowing them for all Illinois students. She’s led a venture coordinating her MBA class to do pro bono consulting for post-Katrina New Orleans start-ups, (featured in Entrepreneur Magazine and Financial Times), and has a background in modeling with Ford Models and contracts in Asia as well. Leanne approaches fashion design as an inventor, focusing heavily on fabric research to create innovative functional and chic clothing options that are completely cruelty free. The Fall-Winter 2009 Open[26] the fashion journal_winter 2010
ing coat line is an eco-conscious, artist inspired, made in Chicago on a living wage collection, and includes materials like closed loop zero waste, 100% recycled windproof ripstop and vintage deadstock buttons. Spelled like “haute couture,” (high fashion), with a V for vegan, Vaute Couture is spoken “VOTE,” as each purchase made is a very tangible ballot for the processes and structures behind it. Leanne’s line launched Fall 2009, with a limited run of 25 coats of each color and style being produced and numbered with matching art illustrations for each customer. Celebrity fans include Alicia Silverstone, Emily Deschanel, Ginnifer Goodwin and “The Breakfast Club’s” Ally Sheedy. For more information on Vaute Couture and to support Leanne’s cause, please visit www.vautecouture.com.
[going green!] Greenbee footwear
Rubber Sole:
A classic foundation with a modern twist…groovy baby.
It’s estimated that 2 to 3 billion tires are currently stockpiled in the U.S., with no hope of being used. But California-based Greenbees, an eco-friendly shoe line that uses recycled tires for the bottom soles of their shoes, is making good use of such rubble. After discovering they had a family member that owned and operated a shoe factory in Mexico, the best friend/cousin combo of Irene Clancy and Janel Garcia, realized what direction their path was taking. For every tire that is removed from the landfill, Greenbees produces 4 pairs of shoes. Currently, the line has 3 boot styles and 3 sandals with new designs launching soon. “The struggle was in taking something that looks masculine by nature and turning into something that would be feminine and fashionable,” said Janel. “We like that on many of our sole’s you can see parts of the words ‘Firestone’ or ‘Michelin.’ We think it’s a nice reminder of the sole’s former life and its journey.” Greenbees launched in February 2009 with their maiden sandal, the “Estephania,” a Grecian designed shoe, which at the time, launched in only 1 color, tan, but has recently expanded due to high demand. “Our buyers were continually asking what other styles and colors were available and we knew that we had to meet their requests,” said Janel. In addition to their “Estephania” sandal, Greenbees has added 3 other styles to their line up. The gladiator-inspired sandal, “Emilia”; the “Thencha” boot, which fuses the classic styling of an equestrian boot with
photo PROVIDED BY GREENBEES
the rugged comfort of a cowboy boot; and the “Emma” boot, which is a shorter version of the former. Each Greenbee shoe is artisan made using only the finest full grain leather available, treated with formaldehyde-free methods and sourced from local materials. “It was important for us to design a shoe that is not only eco-conscience, but fashionconscious as well,” said Irene. “For every one tire that sits in our landfills, serving no purpose but to collect water and serve as a breeding ground for mosquitoes and other disease spreading insects, Greenbees is able to produce four pairs of shoes. We wanted people to know, that it doesn’t take much to make a difference. It can be as simple as planting a tree or wearing a great pair of shoes. It’s easy to become a part of something bigger. And we’re proud of that!” For more information on Greenbees EcoFriendly Shoes, please visit www.shopgreenbees.com. the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [27]
Cece & Melinda of Raymi Productions are looking for the hottest local Chicago designers to participate in:
Saturday, May 1st at the Park Hyatt Chicago (Just before Mother’s Day!)
Details available for interested designers at:
www.raymiproductions.com
Sustainable, Meet Sophisticated Designer Lara Miller restores the sultry side of Earth-Friendly clothing
Chicago designer and avid promoter of environmental awareness, Lara Miller, burst into the fashion world in September 2009, debuting her Spring 2010 collection during “The GREEN SHOWS” at New York’s Fall Fashion Week. Fashioned from eco-friendly fibers such as organic cotton, hand-loomed bamboo, hemp and vegan silk, Lara’s modular designs are created with a playful geometry that connects to the personalities of the the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [29]
[going green!] Laura Miller
women who wear them. Most garments can be wrapped, reversed, and most distinguishably flipped to reveal an entirely different look. Acknowledging the impact that people have on the environment, Lara aspires to preserve and respect our earth in every way possible. “I see my company as a way to support my community,” Lara said, “not only by using organic materials while adhering to a ‘green’ lifestyle and workspace, but also by manufacturing locally and working to sustain the sewn products industry in Chicago.” An Eco Domani semi-finalist, Lara’s work has been featured on Elle.com, DailyCandy. com, The Today Show, the CBS Evening News and in publications such as Italian Vogue, Cookie, Lucky Magazine, Vanity Fair, W, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, WWD, and Newsweek, among many others. Lara has made repeat appearances in GenArt’s Fresh Faces show as well as the Macy’s on State Chicago Designer Shop. She has been named, “Top 40 Under 40,” by Crain’s Chicago Business as well as “Indie Designer of the Year” by Chicago Magazine. As a Lexus Hybrid Living Sustainable Partner, Lara participates in a number of events showcasing her garments while promoting environmental awareness. Lara also appeared on the Sundance Channel’s “Big Ideas for a Small Planet” as a spokesperson for the Lexus Hybrid Living program. Her work has been gifted to a number of celebrities including Sarah Jessica Parker, Maggie Gyllenhaall, Marion Cotillard and Angelina Jolie. In addition to designing her eponymous label, Lara serves as the Executive Director of the Chicago Fashion Incubator, (CFI), at Macy’s on State Street. CFI provides six emerging Chicago-based designers with the resources, including workspace, business training and mentoring, to launch their careers. Her line is carried in over 50 stores throughout the world including the UK, Australia and Japan. Please visit www.laramiller.net. [30] the fashion journal_winter 2010
photographer MICHAEL DONOVAN
Allison Wonderland Comfortable and classic pieces with soft tones and unique, whimsical structures. Allison Wonderland’s collection is for the busy working girl, who loves food and wine, but doesn’t want to “look” like she does. Vancouver, BC-based clothing designer Allison Smith’s inspiration can be summed up with one question, “How much food and drink can you consume without having your belly pop out?” This may or may not be the
result of her love of fine food and wine, but Allison’s mantra of designing for women who aren’t willing to give up their delectable dishes just to look good, is apparent in her line. In Allison’s words, “A girl has to live.
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [31]
And a girl has to look good!” Who says you should sacrifice function for style...or vice versa for that matter? After realizing at a young age that she wanted to be a designer, Allison started her clothing line in 1998, following her graduation from Kwantlen College’s acclaimed Fashion Design and Technology program, and several years spent in Montreal’s rag trade. Since then, Allison Wonderland Clothing has continued to provide satisfaction to the style-savvy of North America and Japan, concentrating heavily on colors, textures and prints. “This spring, all the names of my pieces are named after streets in my beloved city, Vancouver,” Allison said. “Perhaps inspired by the city itself and the things to do here, I usually start the design process by thinking about what I would like in my own wardrobe and then go from there!” In 2009, Allison Wonderland teamed up with Raiment Solutions to create Shop Allison Wonderland, which provides a convenient, secure and trusted way to purchase the Allison Wonderland line. With over 12 years experience, Raiment Solutions specializes in providing a full-service online shopping solution for Canadian clothing designers and retailers. “It has been a long process for me,” Allison said. “I feel like I am stumbling around most of the time. I am not a business person, I’ve never had a cent of money from any backer, nor have I ever been in debt. For most of the time, until spring/summer 2007, I was making the line in season. Stores would hold some of their budget for the line, but I realized that I needed to get on the regular schedule so it could expand. You can’t fight the fashion cycle!” Feminine, flattering clothing. Not fussy. To view Allison’s latest collection, please visit www.allisonwonderland.ca. photos PROVIDED BY ALLISON WONDERLAND
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FIRST EAGLE D i r e c t o r o f N at i v e A m e r i c a n T h e at r e Current Projects: "CAMARGUE ROUGE" "MY LIFE IS MY SUNDANCE� by Leonard Pelyier Music by Tom Bee
"The essential aspect of these shows are in its truest form" For customised show's please contact: lancefirsteagle@yahoo.com
Popular winter sport gear and fitness clothing gets a fashion upgrade when Heidi Hat and Heidi Bottom ramp up the slopes...and the Yoga mats this season. Heidi Hat/Heidi Bottom may have been born in Aspen, but continues to be a nationwide lifestyle brand for sporty women who want to remain warm and comfortable while conquering the slopes, (or the Downward Dog), and look cute while doing so! The company’s founder, owner and designer, Heidi Wade, created a hat line out of her own necessity to have warm and practical hats on the Aspen slopes that didn’t sacrifice style for function. But what started as a hobby, soon became a passion – filling the gap in the lackluster headwear options worn by skiing enthusiasts and newbie skiiers alike. Before long, fellow Aspen skiers began asking Heidi about her hats, scarves and other winter accessories, and gave Heidi the courage to take her millinery talent to the next level. Kelly Wade, the company’s head of public relations, as well as co-designer along with Heidi, understands their clients needs and wants and strives to make this need a reality for them. “The girl we dress is ourselves,” said Kelly. “She is our peer. We’re out there skiing with her and working out with her. She’s us. She’s ALL of us.” Through constant contact with their peers and after numerous compliments [34] the fashion journal_winter 2010
HEIDI HAT/HEIDI BOTTOM hot shorts in roses and lace print, $74; bandeau twist top black, $48. Both available at heidihat.com.
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HEIDI HAT/HEIDI BOTTOM hot shorts in chandelirical print, $74; bandeau twist top black, $48.; hair accessories TWISTBAND, www.thetwistband.com
“Our clothes are one hundred percent American designed, produced and marketed.” - Kelly Wade, Heidi Hat/Heidi Bottom designer
offered, Heidi and Kelly discovered that there was a definite market for their distinctive hats and bottoms. “Our accessory business grew overnight and by word-of-mouth,” said Kelly Wade. “Girls started seeing what we were wearing and as time passed, we realized that there was a large market out there for our products.” After researching and producing samples, Heidi’s hobby-turned-obsession, became a professional clothing/accessories line carried by over 60 specialty stores and boutiques across the nation. “Our clothes are one hundred percent American designed, produced, and marketed,” Kelly said. “Even though demand has provided the opportunity for mass-production, we’ve made it clear we wish business to maintain a distance from the common trend to take production away from home. There’s no question about the quality and authenticity of our products and we want to keep it totally domestic and boutique-oriented.” The success of Heidi hat inspired Heidi and Kelly to produce a second line for their other passion: Yoga. “We needed [36] the fashion journal_winter 2010
something for the slopes. So we made it, and it worked!” Said Heidi. “The same thing happened in the Yoga studio.” And so Heidi Bottom was born. Made from quality swimsuit fabric, wearable, washable and quick-dry fabrics, this performance-minded line is available in shorts, board shorts, skirts, pants and even a new bandeau top. These fitness basics are perfect for the girls who go from the slopes to the yoga studios to complete their day’s workout, and everything in between. “The concept may seem far-fetched to some people, but for us living here in Aspen, it makes perfect sense,” said Kelly. “The colorful, fashionable line is our answer to providing athletic-minded clothing and accessories with a feminine, comfortable approach all to enable and enhance an active lifestyle and sweaty pursuits. And, of course, to look good while feeling good. It’s no secret that looking better makes us feel better, and it’s just plain fun!” Heidi Hat/Heidi Bottom is available in specialty stores and Yoga studios across the nation. Visit www.heidihat.com for more information. H [CHRIS KENNEDY]
HEIDI HAT/HEIDI BOTTOM beanie skull crossbones print with rhinestones, $76; scarf Houndstooth confetti, $92; logo tee, $35; board shorts Houndstooth print, $96; bracelets TWISTBAND, www.thetwistband.com
location YOGA TO THE PEOPLE STUDIO 12 ST. MARKS PLACE, NEW YORK WWW.YOGATOTHEPEOPLE.COM model BAYA VOCE www.bayavoce.com stylist KANAYO EDO makeup/hair ERICA MANISCALO the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [37]
SAND GONE When applied to sandy parts of your body, this amazing dry body powder removes the sand, leaving your skin soft and smooth. SAND GONE is non-toxic, non-talc, easy to apply, smells good, feels good, is inexpensive, and does a thorough, wonderful job each and every time!
A must for Beachgoers! available online at
WWW.SANDGONE.COM
Elise Bergman We can use many adjectives to describe Elise Bergman’s designs. Simple. Elegant. Vibrant. Etc. Etc. But this Chicagoan’s designs are more than what these words describe. Her dresses, wraps and frocks are infused with colors that are vibrant and styles that are timeless. The ties, twists and wraps create an elegant shape for any woman.
Simply stated, Elise Bergman designs multi-functional pieces that are classic and elegant with a feminine and youthful twist. Taught to sew by her mother and grandmothers, Elise has been designing since childhood. In 2002, she enrolled at the University of Michigan to pursue an education in English and Photography, joined the student newspaper and spent the rest of her college summers interning for magazines. Her hope was that this experience in photojournalism, paired with her sense of style, ability to sew and handmade wardrobe, would afford her a post-college job in fashion journalism. Along the way, however, friends and colleagues started to take notice of Elise’s creations and before long, she was receiving custom orders for her handcrafted garments. Over time, the clothing and accessories gained a small, but devoted, following and Elise began a career in fashion design as a summer experiment. In July of 2006, she filled a rack with one-of-a-kind pieces and opened the doors to a closet-sized popup shop in Michigan. This first batch of dresses, made primarily from vintage fabrics, sold out almost immediately and jumpstarted the now Chicago-based brand. Luxurious silks are paired with organic cottons, hemps, hand-dyed or hand-woven natural materials and rare vintage fabrics. As her brand grows, Elise stays true to the “waste-not” attitude that inspired her to sew the first collection using almost entirely reclaimed fabrics. Committed to practicing environmental and social responsibility,
photographer CALEB CONDUIT
Elise uses local manufacturing, sustainable fabric blends, low-impact processes and recycled materials. In addition to creating a variety of one-of-a-kind garments each season, Elise also produces a ready-to-wear collection that is available in a handful of fine boutiques nationwide. She also works one-on-one with clients to create unique custom bridal gowns and special occasion dresses. In the fall of 2008, Elise was selected as one of Gen Art Chicago’s Fresh Faces in Fashion and in the summer of 2009, Chicago’s Fashion Group International recognized her as a Rising Star nominee. For more information about Elise Bergman or where her collection is sold, please visit www.elisebergman.com. the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [39]
Margo Manhattan Art Breathes Life into Jewelry
necklace PRINCESS PENDANT ON MINI CHAIN $979
"I was born during intermission," states the spirited young Jewelry Designer. Margo Manhattan, born into a life of art, culture and immediate gratification, is the daughter of Prima Ballerina Karin von Aroldingen of the New York City Ballet and God daughter to Ballet Master George Balanchine. Inspired by the pulse of New York City, the theater world, dance and art, Margo's sleek, versatile jewelry is elegant with an edge, captivating, and sexy. At 15, Margo began making Jewelry in the Byzantine technique. She fell in love with the metals and stones and endless possibilities; she knew this was her calling. Upon graduation from the Fashion Institute of Technology, her unique style and vision were already well recognized by her professors and colleagues. Margo pursued every aspect of design and moved to Paris to study at Studio Bercot where she immersed herself in the fashion industry, landing jobs with Karl Lagerfeld, Patrick Kelly, Paris Vogue, and with famed Vogue photographer, Arthur Elgort. When her jewelry was discovered in a styling shoot by Patrick Demarchelier, Paris Vogue said, "…we are going to feature your jewelry. You need to be in stores." Shortly thereafter Margo’s business spanned from Paris to Hong Kong. In the 90s Margo's passion for helping others took the form of symbolic, groundbreaking designs, which led her to create the “Earth pin” for Earth Day, 1990, the [40] the fashion journal_winter 2010
universally recognized original “red ribbon lapel pin” for AIDS awareness, 1991, and the “Pink Ribbon” for Breast Cancer for Estee Lauder and other breast cancer fund-raising efforts. These ribbons remain the international icons for AIDS awareness and Breast Cancer fundraising today. Most recently Margo created and developed the concept of the Meridian Bracelet TM for the Samuel Waxman Cancer Research Foundation. When the Margo Manhattan boutique, exclusively for her designs, opened in SoHo in 1995, Margo's work evolved from costume jewelry to sterling. The boutique celebrated her philosophy of enhancing beauty from the inside out by creating a variety of looks through mixing and matching different types of chains including leather, sterling, and her signature link chains, lariats, pendants and stacking rings. Currently, retail is available on her website at www.margomanhattan.com and by appointment, while she looks to find her next retail opportunity on the Upper East Side. “My family has always been in the Arts. Especially modern ballet,” said Margo. “My jewelry reflects that art. The fusion of gemstones and silver. The strong lines. The cut and the fiery glow, are all the elements that perform to create beauty. The way a necklace transforms the face and a bracelet transforms the wrist has captivated me. See my most versatile interlocking heart rings. See how I breathe life into silver."
CAMERON RICHARDSON in BLUE TOPAZ PERI NECKLACE
photo provided by MARGO MANHATTAN
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BEYOND LIMITATIONS Open-minded. Innovative. Encouraging. Colorful. And independent.
Designer Anke Loh’s approach to fashion is more than
just textile and shape, it’s freedom and experimentation. Anke Loh, a fashion designer who collaborates with companies, textile artists, filmmakers, dancers, and others, explores how these cultures are defined by their pace, and by the idiosyncratic behaviors and perspectives of their people. Her creative pursuits compel her to examine differences between people and cultures, landscapes, streetscapes, sights and sounds. She works to discover the extraordinary in the seemingly mundane facets and materials that weave the fabric of everyday life in a given culture.
Loh studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, earning a BFA in 1998 and an MFA in 1999. She launched her annual collection from 2000–2005 in Antwerp, Belgium, where she trained and also designed costumes for theater and dance
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photographer JEF JACOBS model KIRSTEN PIETERS
[44] the fashion journal_winter 2010
companies. Her fashion design and art have been shown internationally, including Urban Identities at Carnival Supermarket, Chicago; at the TPTP Galler y in Paris in 2009; Aloft: Fearless Fashion at Chicago’s and Miami’s Luminaire® in 2007 and 2009; and Dressing Light at Chicago's UBS Tower and the Chicago Cultural Center in 2006, which drew international media coverage. An installation in the Liebfrauen Church, Münster, Germany; at Galler y Simone Gaubatz in Paris; Museu Tèxtill de la Indumentària in Barcelona; and the Musée d’Art & Industrie in SaintEtienne, France. Loh’s work is an ongoing research and experimentation around Urban Identities, between the boundaries of fashion, society and technology. The fundamental aim of these projects is to explore new concepts, and principally to go beyond
the limitations that a discipline such as "Fashion" could pose. The Anke Loh collection has been presented in runway shows at the Centre Pompidou in Paris; the Osaka Collection Show in Japan; and Mode 2001 Landed in Antwerp. Loh designs costumes for theatre and dance companies, including Rosas / Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker in Brussels. In addition, Loh was honored as a Laureate at the Festival International des Arts et de la Mode in Hyères, France. In 2005, she was invited by The School of The Art Institute of Chicago to work as an Assistant Professor in the Department of Fashion. Loh currently holds the Assistant Professor position and runs her design studio in Chicago as well. Loh’s work has been covered by the Associated Press, Vogue USA, the New York Times, Purple magazine, Elle Canada and others. To View Anke Loh’s current collections and projects, please visit: ankeloh.net. H
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Suzannah Modern Vintage. Structured and Sleek.
Tailored dresses and coats. Vintage couture blouses. Precision cutting. These are all skills that make Suzannah a talented and reputable designer and stylist in the fashion world. The cut of her clothing and personalized fit are what make Suzannah’s clothes so exquisite. If you’re between sizes, Suzannah will create a wardrobe for you that even the Queen of England would fawn over! Suzannah has a passion for vintage couture. The cut and fit inspires her to make clothes that not only look amazing, but make women feel beautiful and feminine. The clothes exude quiet confidence and are effortlessly stylish. She aims to bring back traditional practices and techniques and to deliver them with a modern approach. Graduating in 1995, with a First Class degree in Fashion Design, Suzannah has worked in the industry ever since, as both [46] the fashion journal_winter 2010
a stylist and designer. She started the Suzannah brand in 2006, and with a near obsession for the cut and finish of vintage couture garments, Suzannah launched a small collection of dresses for Spring/ Summer 2006. “I developed the prints, which were painted from quirky vintage references, selected the cloths and toyed and played until I reached some charming silhouettes which I was proud enough of to become my first collection,” Suzannah said. The collection and brand has developed since then, into a more signature dress brand with a concentration on casual cocktail dresses, tea dresses and work frocks. She works with premium Italian fabrics ensuring her fabric designs are of the highest standard and have the most beautiful finish. Coupled with her tailoring eye, Suzannah delivers a classic contemporary collection
Petal Sculpt dress, ÂŁ385.00
photographer ANDY MAYFIELD model SUZANNE, First Model Management the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [47] stylist NBUKO TANNAURA
of fun, glamorous pieces, which are stunningly unique and have a vintage feel. In 2009, Suzannah launched her first boutique. Set in an unconventional shopping district, Suzannah has created a quiet, calm oasis in the heart of Little Venice in London. “My pieces have to be charming and silently sexy enough to make you feel amazingly dressed and perfectly chic,” Suzannah said. “This summer I was lucky enough to find the most perfect destination boutique for the collection. On the surface it is calm and British, but there are hidden depths of talent, with artists, bespoke designers and glamorous eccentric people from the stage and the screen. I felt it was the perfect backdrop for the pieces I design, and the business I would like to offer and be known for.” All of the pieces in her boutique are made in England. The cocktail dresses are all made locally and Suzannah offers a fitting service for them, which is extremely popular, and personalizes the experience as well. For more information on Suzannah, please visit www.suzannah.com.
top right: Ottoman Coat (black silk with belt) £380.00; bottom left: Hepburn dress (black and white) £285.00; bottom right: Tie Front Tea Dress (vintage floral) £325.00.
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bracelet SASKIA DIEZ, 99 euro. saskia-diez.com photographer BUREAU MIRKO BORSCHE
FABULOUS SPRING FINDS Ahh...spring is in the air. Well, ok, it’s still pretty cold out there, but things are looking up! In another month or so, (depending on where you live), you’ll be sheding your winter coat for the spring essentials that Fashion Editor Lynda DiTuri has chosen as her “faves” for Spring 2010! the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [49]
1} Frank Tjepkema Clockwork Love,â‚Ź750.00 [www.galerie-ra.nl].
2}
Photo Frank Tjepkema
3}
2} Dyanahar Ruffle Blouse, $45.00 [www.magpielovely.com]. 3} Urban Revisions Shredded T-Shirt Dress in Tea Stain, $100.00 [urbanrevisions.etsy.com]. 4} Saskia Diez Gold Diamond Ring, â‚Ź199.00 [saskia-diez.com]. 5} Arlie Trowbridge Reversible Shredded T-Shirt in Natural Brown, $50.00 [www.urbanrevisions.etsy.com].
4}
5} [50] the fashion journal_winter 2010
1}
1} Plastique World Landmark Ring Set, $24.00 [www.plastiqueshop.com]. 2} Rock My World Heart Fingerprint Necklace, $100.00 [www.rockmyworldinc.com]. 3} Tammy Antoinette Oak Leaf Cuff in Brass, $65 [www.magpielovely.com].
Plastique Avant Garge Acrylic Necklace, $20.00 [www.plastiqueshop.com].
2} 3}
Saskia Diez Papier bags, â‚Ź99.00 each [www.saskia-diez.com].
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Lazerian Lichas, ÂŁ120 www.lazerian.co.uk Photographer Richard Sweeney
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1} Oras Vysnia Stripes Wall Mobile, $330.00 [www.orasdesigns.com].
2}
Clockwise from top right: 2} Bljoudally Spoke Bracelet and Dizzy Bracelet, $40 each [www. magpielovely.com]. 3} Lazerian Mensa Coffee Table, ÂŁ1400.00 [www.lazerian.co.uk]. 4} Lazerian Carmaris, ÂŁ110.00 [lazerian.co.uk].
4}
3}
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SOPHIE HULME untouchable polo dress www.sophiehulme.com photographer TIMUR CELIKAG model WWW.IMGMODELS.COM hair & makeup SHAMA@CLM
SPARKLE
SHINE
Load it on! Dazzle this season in sequins. From zip ups, to bracelets to pillows – oh my. (Just remember too much sparkle is never enough!) [54] the fashion journal_winter 2010
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [54]
Independent Reign Structured Mini-Moss Canvas-Gold Sequins, $23.00 [www.etsy.com/shop/ IndependentReign].
Sophie Hulme Sequin stripe bomber and wash silk shorts [www.sophiehulme.com].
Saskia Diez Mix of Diamonds and Pavà ©, 99-199 Euro each
The Home Centric The Golden Touch 16 X 16 Inches Silk Pillow Cover Embellished with sequins, $32.65. Almost Real 16 X 16 Inches Silk Pillow Cover Embroidered with Crystals, $20.50
[www.saskia-diez.com].
[www.etsy.com/shop/ TheHomeCentric].
Plastique 9mm inverted “diamond” ring, $23.00 [http://www.plastiqueshop.com].
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Sophie Hulme Sequin Sports Rucksack, ÂŁ112
Elva Fields Superstar Necklace, $332
[www.sophiehulme.com].
[www.elvafields.com].
Crumpet Diamond Silver Sequin Cardi, ÂŁ378 [www.www.crumpetengland.com].
Elva Fields Sparkling Statement Necklace, starting at $300 (various one-of-a-kind designs available) [www.elvafields.com].
Bljoudally Bouquet Necklace, $105 [www.magpielovely.com].
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Saskia Diez Gold Emerald, 199 Euro
Independent Reign Skinny Wristlet, [www.etsy.com/shop/ IndependentReign].
[www.saskia-diez.com].
Saskia Diez
Double crystal necklace No. 2, 199 Euro. www.saskia-diez.com. Photographer Bureau Mirko Borsche Stylist Timm H達-neke
Plum & Sage 14kt aquamarine inverted studs, $110 [www.plumandsage.com].
photo credits: pg1: Dyanahar Ruffle Blouse - Photo: Amy Dodson; Model: Dyana Harrison; Urban Revisions - Photo: Arlie Trowbridge; Model: Marion Glass; Stylist: Arlie Trowbridge; Saskia ring - Photo: Oliver Spies. pg2: Word landmark ring set & Avant Garde Acrylic Necklace - Photo: Plastique; Rock My World Heart Fingerprint Necklace - Photo: Alexander Kaufman; Tammy Antoineete Oakleaf Cuff - Photo: Tammy Antoinette; Saskia Diez Papier bags - Photo: Atelier Saskia Diez; Stylist: Sophie de Vocht. pg5: Oras Wall Mobile - Photo: Matthew Carden; Lazerian Mensa Coffee Table & Camarias - Photo: Richard Sweeney; Bljoudally poke Bracelet - Photo: Francis Zera; Model: Mia Vo; Stylist: Tiffany Lowry. pg7: Independent Reign - All credits: Independent Reign; Sophie Hulme Sequin
Stripe Bomber & shorts - Photo: Timur Celikag; Model: IMG models; Hair & Makeup: Shama @ CLM; Sashia Deiz Mix of Diamonds - Photo: Atelier Saskia Diez; Plastique 9mm inverted diamond ring - All credits: Plastique; The Home Centric Throw pillows - All credits: The Home Centric. pg9: Sophie Hulme Sequin rusksack - All credits: Sophie Hulme; Elva Fields - Photo: Emily Wheat Maynard; Crumpt Diamond Silver Cardi - Photo: David Yeo; Stylist: Riccardo Andrenacci; Model: Georgie Wass; Blijoudally Bouquet Necklace - All credits: Bljoudally; Elva Fields Sparkling Statement Necklace - Photo: Emily Wheat Maynard. pg 10: Independent Reign Skinny Wristlet - All credits: Independent Reign; Plum & Sage 14kt Aquamarine studs - All credits: Andrea Bonelli; Saskia Diez Gold Emerald Photo: Ingmar Kurth.
thethefashion [57] fashionjournal journal __ winter winter 2010 2010 [57]
D A M IAN SANDONE d i g i t a l
p h o t o g r a p h y
w w w . d a m i a n s a n d o n e . c o m 347 west 39 street, studio 601 • new york, ny 10018 917 353 4596 • damiansandone@gmail.com
Girlie by DEBRA RODMAN, 1.7 fl oz bottle, $98.00 available at girliebydebrarodman.com.
GIRL POWER... Half of all sales from girlie will be donated to benefit the children who are attending the Man-Rod Academy in Lamu, Kenya. Man-Rod Academy, founded in 2008, is a primary academic institution that provides quality education at the Kindergarten 1-2-3 and Primary 1 level with a commitment to providing a strong educational foundation. For more informaiton on this foundatuion please visit: www.girliebydebrarodman.com
THE SCENT OF SEDUCTION Mystical and exotic notes. A sensation of tranquility and independence. Girlie, by perfumer, publisher and rock-and-roll child, Debra Rodman, will persuade you into expressing your inner seductress and philanthropist.
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [59]
[beauty] editors picks
Get your Beauty On! We’ve always showed you our favorite clothing & accessory picks, but what about our fave beauty finds? I mean, a girl’s gotta have great hair and makeup, right?
F.L.Y. Cosmetics De’ Lovely Color Play Trio, $30.00 available at www.fly-cosmetics.com.
THAT’S SO F.L.Y...For those
F.L.Y. girls trying to save the Earth and look sexy while doing so… The harmonious color combo of the De’ Lovely Color Play Trio by F.L.Y. Cosmetics, will be your #1 beauty weapon in 2010. Join us in the fight to save the Earth. Its simple, when your shadow pan is empty, just mail the empty pan(s) back to us for the same colors or choose from new colors in F.L.Y.’s Color Play shadows. As a reward for doing your part to help reduce, reuse & recycle, F.L.Y. will give you 15% off your Color Play replacement shadow. Alora Ambiance Rosa Gift Set Soy Candle & 8 oz. Reed Diffuser in Rose musk. Rosa 10.5 oz. candle burns for approximately 50 hours. visit www.aloraambiance.com for pricing and locations.
[60] the fashion journal_winter 2010
Hot Pop Liner introduces a “smudge and budge proof” liner with a liner brush that glides on effortlessly, £10.00 www.popbeauty.co.uk.
Kevin Murphy Angel.Wash Gentle and moisturising shampoo for volume and shine, 250ml - £12.95; 960ml - £26.00. Angel. Rinse For weightless moisture on coloured or highlighted hair, 250ml - £12.95; 960ml £26.50 www.kevinmurphy. com.au.
Benefit’s Sugar Bomb These 4 complementing shades of rose, shimmering pink, soft plum and peach, blend together perfectly to brighten cheeks in a deliciously soft, natural way, $28.00 www.benefitcosmetics.com.
BareMinerals Buffing your way to a perfectly natural look with the new Refillable Buffing Brush from bareMinerals. Available in 15 shades, $29.50 www.bareminerals.com.
DKNY Delicious Candy Apples A New Fragrance collection Dipped in Urban Sweetness, 1.7 oz Eau De Parfum Spray, $55.00. Available in Sephora stores nationwide or at DKNY. com.
Beauty for Real Lighted Lip Glosses. The Illuminating Lip Glosses feature a mirror and an LED light on the lid so you can put on lip gloss in low light environments. Brilliant! Comes in 9 shades, $22.00 beautyforreal. com.
Urban Decay’s Pocket Rocket Lipgloss Mascara comes packaged in a custom component, inside the double-sided cap is a photo of one of eight hot guys and with a flick of the wrist you can dress them down to thier skivvies. Comes in 8 shades, $18 www.urbandecay.com.
Avon’s SuperSHOCK Mascara achieves 12 x fuller, more defined lashes in one easy step. Available in Black and Brown/Black, 10ml, £8. Available at avonshop. co.uk.
Estée Lauder’s Love Your Lips collection arrives just in time for Valentine’s Day to give your lips that perfect, seductive look. You’ll have him saying, “Be My Valentine” in no time! Signature Lipstick, $19.50; Kissable Lip Gloss, $18.00 www.esteelauder.com.
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [61]
tines valen y da looks
makeup SHANE TERENZI photographer ISAAC BEARMAN model BRANDIE from Major hair ANDRE RODMAN
ROMANTIC LUNCH
Opt for a sexy, relaxed look for lunch, nothing too formal. Keep your hair down, use natural, soft colors on eyes and cheeks and add a pop of color to the lips. Keep your look comfortable, casual and save the Va-Voom factor for dinner. (For clean, beautiful skin, with a glowing cheek, apply Makeup Forever’s HD Liquid Foundation & MUD’s Russet Blush.)
makeup ERICA MANISCALCO
DELECTABLE DINNER Now it’s time to turn on the glam! Sweep your hair up, (preferably off the neck), add a little lift to the roots to create volume, keep eye and base makeup on the natural side and rosy cheeks or a bright lipstick are a nice finishing touch. (To add a dramatic look to the eyes/lips, use a darker tone shadow like Nars Cosmetics Cordura #1099621 and YSL’s Exquisite Plum Rouge Volupte´#22.) the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [63]
[beauty] health
Pucker up! From lipsticks to plumping-powered tools, lip serums to lip scrubs, women today are obsessed with keeping their lips looking as youthful as their skin. Beauty Editor, Erica Maniscalco, takes a look at the basics of lip care and the tips, tricks and suggestions about finding a daily lip balm! Lips. A feature so many people spend millions of dollars on each year to keep looking pouty and youthful. But what happens when lips are dry and chapped? And sometimes in pain? Most people experience this briefly, but others suffer from this all year round. Cheap chapsticks are a quick and easy fix, but with so many products on the market, it could become very overwhelming to choose. So, to answer my own questions, I decided to try the gamut. Glossy lip balms, sparkly lip balms, eco-lip balms, even lip balms that taste good, (which, by the way, is something I do not recommend due to the addiction of reapplying and leading to the compulsive licking of the lips.) According to Dr. Monica Halem, a dermatoligic surgeon based in New York, “There are many reasons for dry lips. Some of these can include: lack of moisture caused by environmental factors such as heat and cold, (similar to dry skin), a contact dermatitis usually from lipstick, lip balm, or allergy to certain foods or chronic sun damage.” After trying a varierty of products, (from the cheap chapsticks to the premium), I found that I liked different lip balms for different reasons and for different times during the day. One of my favorites was La Mer’s lip balm. It was moisturizing and had a very fresh feeling/taste.
If you like something with a petroleum texture, Malin and Goetz’s lip moisturizer is the one for you. “The best thing to do to prevent dry lips is to keep them moisturized with a vaseline product,” said Dr. Halem. “If you are going to be in the sun, make sure there is sunscreen in the product.” Dr. Hashuka’s has two lip products that are very nourishing as well. A lip care stick, which has a waxy texture, and a lip balm, which is a gloss. All of these products are great for the naked lip but when it comes to applying lip balm under color, it’s best to use something with a waxy texture such as Burt’s Bees. I found that the waxy texture moisturizes lips and doesn’t affect the color. In the end, no matter what brand of lip balm I used, I noticed the number one reason for my chapped lips was the constant licking and touching. The more you touch your lips, the dryer they become. Overall, I think it’s best to stick with a moisturizing lip balm, leave your lips alone and always drink enough water to heel them from the inside-out. Dr. Monica Halem is a dermatologic surgeon practicing in NYC at Columbia Doctors Eastside. She specializes in skin cancer surgery, laser and cosmetic surgery. Visit her at www.dermatology.columbia.edu. H [ERICA MANISCALCO] Malin+Geotz lip moisturizer Daily Protection. Soothing Treatment. Fatty Acid Hydration Technology. 1/3 oz., $12.00
Dr. Hashuka’s lip balm Daily Protection. Made from powdered silk fibers. The proteins in silk have an amino acid composition that is almost identical to skin. 0.15 oz, $16.00 [64] the fashion journal_winter 2010
[beauty] featured new product
Ellie Perfume:
“Scent
of a Woman”
Soft and sweet! The perfect description of Ellie D Perfume and Jessica Dunne, creator of the Ellie D Perfume line. Jessica shares her inspirations and struggles in creating this medley of inspiring and decadent scents. After working for two years at an investment banking firm in New York, (and realizing this wasn’t her calling), Jessica Dunne went to graduate school to pursue a degree in art history. Soon after, she landed her dream job at a fourth generation family-run art gallery, only to realize, almost four years later, that her urges to venture out on her own were growing stronger. In every spare moment, and while maintaining her job at the art gallery, Jessica threw herself into the creation of her new business, and new love, Ellie D Perfume. Jessica flew to Grasse, France to work with master perfumer Michel Roudnitska, and after 70 trials and painstaking edits over the next year, they created their first fragrance, Ellie, inspired by memories of Jessica’s grandmother Eleanor “Ellie” Dunne, an elegant artist and a perfume aficionado. Ellie perfume is a soft green floral, which Jessica chose to showcase in an elegant and timeless bottle that was inspired by her vintage perfume bottle collection.
JESSICA DUNNE photographed by ANNA KNOTT
When Jessica and her family decided to move to London in 2006, and Jessica discovered that she was expecting her daughter, she decided to work on the business full-time. It was after her daughter Laine’s birth, that Jessica launched Ellie exclusively at Henri Bendel in New York. In February 2008, Jessica and her family moved to Chicago where Jessica launched her second fragrance, Ellie Nuit, a more sensual evening scent that can be worn alone or as a compliment to Ellie. Both scents are now available at select specialty retailers in the U.S. and abroad. Jessica has appeared on Fox Business News and in the New York Times Style section, among other publications. Jessica received her B.A. in Psychology with a concentration in Neuroscience from Haverford College and an MLA in Art History from the University of Pennsylvania. the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [65]
[beauty] featured new product
Jessica Dunne’s fragrances resemble more than just a feminine scent. The subtle mixtures of the notes reflect an earlier time, years ago, when women wore skirts, hats and gloves on a daily basis. When women’s dressing tables contained mirrored trays with beautiful
and intricate per fume bottles adorning them. These kinds of memories are what spawned Jessica to invest her time and energy into creating per fumes that spoke of these times. What she created was Ellie – soft, intoxicating and comforting. H
For more information on Ellie Perfume and where it’s sold, please visit www.elliedperfume.com.
[66] the fashion journal_winter 2010
photographed by ELLEN SILVERMAN
[beauty] featured location
New York
Ajune Day Spa: A personalized spa experience for the overstressed, overachievers of NYC According to Ajune.com, founder and Medical Director of Ajune Day Spa, Dr. Mauro C. Romita said, “I have established this unique, holistic program to deliver a seamless blend of science and aesthetics.” This is the mantra that Ajune operates by. Each visit is personalized by clinicians, balancing a combination of aesthetic and clinical care, responding to each individual’s skin care and body replenishment needs. Ajune also believes in Chakras. In Hinduism, there are 7 major Chakras, or energy centers, that are believed to exist within the human body. This year, Ajune will be introducing a special and signature seasonal Winter Massage, created by MaryEl-
len Laspina, which balances this energy by combining the Swedish and Shiatsu massages with other components – hot towels steeped in an aromatic blend of healing essential oils, warm stones placed along the front of the body to stimulate the Chakras, a foot massage and a warm body wrap with an invigorating head-and-scalp massage. Ajune is located at 1294 Third Ave in New York City. To make an appointment, please call the reservation desk at 212.628.0044 and for addition information, please visit www.ajune.com and www. skinmdny.com.
Ajune Day Spa
1294 3rd Avenue New York, NY 10021-3202 212.628.0044 www.ajune.com the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [67]
CIRQUE DU SOLEIL Q&A
Interview by LISA RICHARDSON
Bright colors, big tents and acrobatics immediately come to mind when you picture the circus, but the vision behind Cirque du Soleil goes way beyond the norm. With a self-described mix of drama, circus arts, and street entertainment, Cirque du Soleil engages all of the senses and makes the circus goer’s experience extraordinary. This troupe goes to great lengths to set themselves apart from hometown circuses and adds a hypnotic level of wonder to all of their shows. The attention to minute details in the wardrobes, and added glamour to the sets, are what make Cirque du Soleil performances awe inspiring. But, these intricacies wouldn’t be possible without an expert Costume Designer and Makeup Artist preparing the performers throughout. We sat down with makeup artist, Julie Bégin, and costume designer, Liz Vandal, from Cirque’s famed Big Top Touring Show - OVO. OVO, Portuguese for “egg,” uses Brazilian music to shed light on the world of insects.
Benoit Fontaine © 2009 Cirque du Soleil Inc
Makeup! As the first of a two part series, TFJ sat down with Makeup Artist Julie Bégin of OVO...
What made you want to become a Makeup Artist? My parents dragged me to loads of theater plays from a very young age. I often hung out in the dressing rooms and was utterly fascinated by the transformation which took place there. Also as a child, I fell in love with Maya, the shapeshifter with the coolest eyebrows ever, on British B series, Space 1999. As a teen, I loved the cult movie Liquid Sky and really took to its-off-the wall aesthetic, particularly the makeup. In my eyes, makeup was the magic wand that transformed mortals into allegories. How did you become involved with Cirque du Soleil? They wanted a newer, more fashionable look and one of their fantastic researchers came across a series of (unpublished) personal work I had done. They tracked me down and offered me the job, which was really ballsy of them since I had no Circus experience and had only worked as a fashion makeup artist. They wanted a slicker, more modern take on their aesthetic and felt I could bring that to the show.
Naskrecki and Thomas Eisner and works by a number of artists and photographers including Bill Viola, Antony Gormley and Ansell Adams. Our work on OVO was really a team effort. Brainstorming with director Deborah Colker and costume designer Liz Vandal, combined with my genuine love for nature and our planet, we were able to show the evocation of the insect world as opposed to recreating it in a literal way. How has your experience with Cirque helped your career as a Makeup Artist? It has renewed my creative approach, making it more unhinged, limitless, more playful. I’ve developed new makeup application techniques and integrated several non-traditional additions and accessories to my makeup creations. My creativity developed further and bettered my teamwork and management skills. It made me want to further my exploration to new and unexpected directions. What Cirque du Soleil moment stands out in your head? The first time I saw the crickets together on stage with full makeup on and in costume. It all came together perfectly. I knew we had achieved our goal.
Benoit Fontaine © 2009 Cirque du Soleil Inc
What were some inspirations you used while creating these amazing looks? Here’s a quote by Barbara Hepworth which describes my mental process on OVO and in life, “In the contemplation of Nature we are perpetually renewed.” My inspirations were on my mind all the time. I looked at researches and photographs by scientists such as Piotr the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [69]
...and Costume Designer Liz Vandal of OVO.
When did you realize that you wanted to be a Costume Designer? As a self taught designer, I started 20 years ago with my first clothing line. My line was thought to be ver y theatrical which lead me to dance design. I feel that the body has to be comfortable which leads to a certain amount of difficulty. My designs have to be functional and allow the body to move freely. What’s the inspiration behind your designs? I like to attend the rehearsals. It allows me to connect with the energy of the performance. I get the chance to see what will work best for the choreog-
Benoit Fontaine © 2009 Cirque du Soleil Inc
[70] the fashion journal_winter 2010
raphers and dancers. From there, prototypes can be made and tried out until we find the best fit for the dancers as well as the show. How did you get involved with Cirque du Soleil? I am a big fan of Cirque and was very open to working with them. They have a vast library of designers and artists at their disposal and they approached me about 10 years ago. I was very young during my first interview and very nervous, but luckily, it worked out. When you discovered the theme of OVO, how did your ideas take shape? The insect world has always been very fascinating to me and I’ve done a lot of research in that field. I was really inspired by the creativity of Chantal Tremblay, our Creation Director. And originally, the design was going to be ver y minimalist and graphic, but as the design/show evolved, I got to work closely with our set designer, Gringo Cardia, and began to place items on the leotard. After awhile, the designs became very intricate and started to take the shape I envisioned. What Cirque du Soleil moment stands out in your head? I believe that success is never done for ourselves. With Cirque, a new family emerges and provides you with love and support. Seeing ever yone happy and working together, especially on our opening day, was a wonderful experience. It was only possible because ever yone worked together. This experience is all about magic and the beauty of sharing your gifts with the world. We can save the world by working together.
headshots OSA Images
Wardrobe!
Our country’s at a critical point in time right now. New ideas, methods and structures abound. An abundance of voices are calling out for change. And the capacities at hand are in debates. But one constant remains – style. The next few pages are a tribute to the ideas and styles that shape America and the American Woman – yesterday, today and tomorrow.
DAMIAN SANDONE ERICA MANISCALCO
photographer art direction
Aviator flying hat courtesy of AMERICAN POWER MUSEUM Black scarf STYLIST’S OWN; Vintageinspired Aviator leather trench coat COCKPIT, style # W21C002, price: $ 695, Cockpit General Store 652 Broadway(NY) (www.cockpitusa.com)
Meet
MOLLY makeup ERICA MANISCALCO Hair SHANE TERENZi stylist JASON BUI model SHEA location AMERICAN AIRPOWER MUSEUM (www.americanairpowermuseum.com)
[left page] Vintage-inspired Aviator leather trench coat COCKPIT, $695 (www.cockpitusa.com); Baby Blue and Pink Stripe Cotton Shirt REBECCA & DREW (wwww.rebeccaanddrew.com); Tomato Red Tulip Skirt KARA JANX, $198 (www.karajanx.com) [this page] Red “Madison” plaid shirt RED HAUTE (www. cockpitusa.com); Khaki Cotton Rope Belt Skirt REBECCA & DREW; Black Beanie Cap CROWN CAP available at Cockpit USA stores.
wool dress RONI NYC (www.roninyc.com); vintage pleated slip provided by stylist; stockings H&M; shoes POUR LA VICTOIRE (www.plvstudio.com)
Meet
KRISTEN makeup ERICA MANISCALCO makeup assistant SHANE TERENZI hair PETRA VINCENT stylist ROWSHANA JACKSON stylist assistant KELLY WILSON & SHEENA WRIGHT model SHANNON location MCSORLEY’S OLD ALE HOUSE (www.mcsorleysnewyork.com).
wool dress RONI NYC (www.roninyc.com); vintage slip, top & stockings provided by stylist.
[this page] Tunic Floral Dress RONI NYC; Suede Fringe Vest RALPH LAUREN; Boots CHINESE LAUNDRY; accessories provided by stylist [right page] Tunic Black and Cream print Dress RONI NYC; suede mini fringe skirt VINTAGE RALPH LAUREN; suede vest VINTAGE RALPH LAUREN; long cable knit sweater VINTAGE; accessories provided by stylist
Meet
KAYA makeup/hair SHANE TERENZI model KIM from Model Service Agency, LLC & LANCE WHITE MAGPIE
red wool coat RONI NYC; necklace CALABAR IMPORTS (www.calabar-imports.com)
Meet
JOSEPHINA makeup/hair SHANE TERENZI model ALLISON from Model Service Agency, LLC
dress RONI NYC
[artist appreciation] Jason Brammer
Art in Focus:
The melding of the past, present and future
photographer JASON BRAMMER
I stopped a few feet away from the small stand where the art was hung and stared at the photograph, squinting my eyes to try and distinguish whether or not there was metal, or wires, or rope hanging down from the photo. I started to walk over and the closer I got to the photo, or what I thought was a photo, turned out to be an unbelievably real painting. The futuristic and melancholy painting looked like what a robot would paint if he were trying to recreate an image of his home, circa 3000. I loved it. The use of color and shading and real industrial materials hanging off of the painting gave great perspective to the work. It looked as if I could walk right into the relief. I was so intrigued by the collection of paintings, that I immediately grabbed one of Jason’s (the artist’s) business cards and [84] the fashion journal_winter 2010
contacted him as soon as I got home. HERE’S HIS STORY. Jason Brammer is an internationallycollected visual artist and painter based in Chicago, IL. His paintings are created with acrylic paint, transparent glazes, plasters, resins, and other media, using a combination of airbrushing and traditional brush painting techniques. Over the years, his paintings have been inspired by industrial urban landscapes, graffiti, patterns in nature, Eastern art traditions, music and spiritual iconography. Jason describes his current original artwork as “photo-surrealistic,” which is surrealistic, (and sometimes futuristic), imagery created in a photorealistic style. Born in Lancaster, Ohio in 1974 and growing up in Indianapolis, Indiana, Jason studied art at the Savannah
College of Art and Design in Savannah, Georgia as well as at Indiana University in Bloomington, Indiana. He currently lives in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood with his wife, Erin, and their two cats. He spends much of his time creating artwork in his Ukrainian Village studio, and participates in numerous exhibitions and art events. In addition to original paintings, Jason does installations, murals, and commissions. He has created mixed media, painting installations for art exhibitions as well as permanent sitespecific installations for commercial spaces. His largest installation to date is a configuration of 6 large paintings with connecting mural work and seamlessly incorporated 3-dimensional objects that
Jacob Hand Photography (www.jacobhand.com)
“My latest painting collections all experiment with photo-surrealism, exploring the idea of the past, present and future intertwining.”
he created for the I.V. Lab Recording Studio in Chicago, IL. His current series, called “Time Machines,” is a collection of mixed media paintings incorporating 3-dimensional, sculptural elements with mounted attachments, such as antique or salvaged hardware, cables, and carved wood pieces on the edges of the painting. “My latest painting collections all experiment with photo-surrealism, exploring the idea of the past, present, and future intertwining,” Jason said. “Ultimately, I want my ‘Time Machines’ to give the experience of glimpsing into another era, dimension, or lifetime.” For more information on Jason,visit www.jasonbrammer.com H [JEN GESIMONDO] the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [85]
[artist appreciation] Josh Bricker
Brickermade Furniture: CUSTOM FURNITURE MEETS FUNCTIONAL ART
I met Joshua Bricker, owner and designer of Brickermade, a custom furniture gallery in Chicago, IL, at an event in the Fulton Market District in September 2009. His love of creating furniture and art that’s functional and aesthetically pleasing is what drove me to his website, and to take an interest in learning about the creative process that goes along with making custom furniture. Coming from a long line of woodworkers, according to Joshua, he “could build a house by the time he was 12, but always had an affection for objects.” With no formal training in wood working or metal working, Joshua quit his corporate job on his birthday in 1998,
photos courtesy of BRICKERMADE
[86] the fashion journal_winter 2010
started his business and never looked back. He uses hardwood, metal and concrete in his creations and custom materials – per request – can be incorporated into his designs as well. “My ultimate goal for brickermade is to help more people see furniture in the same light as they would a painting or sculpture, and to do it using sustainable or recycled materials,” said Joshua. Brickermade is located in the heart of Chicago’s Fulton Market Arts District at 1109 West Fulton Market, Chicago, IL. The shop and showroom are open by appointment only - 312-560-6133. For more information on Joshua, please visit www.brickermade.com. H [JEN GESIMONDO]
standard bedroom
Millennium Hotel London Mayfair 44 Grosvenor Square Mayfair, London W1K 2HP For reservations call:+44 (0)20 7596 3170 quote Summer Package www.millenniumhotels.com/mayfair
WEBSITE OF THE MINUTE
FREDFLARE.COM Quirky, cute and so affordable! Having a name derived from Hollywood leading man, Fred Astaire, FredFlare.com believes that great designs should be just like him – fun, entertaining and noteworthy. From kitschy Rusian Doll measuring cups, to this season’s trend-setting faux fur vest, FredFlare.com has everything you’ve wanted this season, and some things you didn’t know you wanted... OPENINGCEREMONY.US Small, colorful caracature scenes greet you upon entering the home page of OpeningCeremony. com. Cute, modern and oh, so Japanese, Opening Ceremony brings together emerging American talent with both young and established designers and
[88] the fashion journal_winter 2010
artists from abroad. With clothing, accessories and shoes designed for men and women, by men and women designers around the globe, Opening Ceremony takes the Olympic foundation of merging sports, business and global participation, and applies it to fashion. GLOW.COM Glow gives you access to over 150 brands of skincare, makeup, hair care, bath & body, fragrances and more! You’ll find the best items that beauty has to offer – from mainstream must-haves and international obsessions, to posh brands and everything in between. Glow also offers user reviews, free trails, coupons and ‘How To’ videos. Ready. Set. Glow!
15DOLLARSTORE.COM Super sleek skinny jeans. $15! Jeweled halter top. $15! Buckle-Heel boots. (Yup, you guessed it.) $15! I didn’t believe it at first, but after looking through pages of super stylish clothes, jewelry, shoes and bags, everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, is only $15! While designer names, labels and fashions are constantly changing, one thing remains the same at 15dollarstore. com...the price! BEAUTYFIX.COM Sick of wasting money on beauty products bought at your local pharmacy? Want professional advice on your skintone and texture? Now you totally can! Beautyfix is an exclusive beauty club where beauty experts suggest the best product matches for you, based on a profile that you create. Just log on, answer skin care, hair care and makeup questions, and wait for a beauty expert to send you the best matches based on your profile. Afterward, share your opinion and get a $25 gift card to glow.com. Now, how easy was that?!
With the social networking age rapidly flying past us, there's almost too many fashion websites out there to name! But we've tried to pick a few out for you to enjoy. From the quirky, to feminine, ingenious to simple, these fashion websites will not only stand the test of time, but get a big THUMBS UP from us!
and handbags, but extends to jewelry, hats, belts, lingerie, scarves, sunglasses, swimwear, vintage, mens ties, bowties, grooming, small leather goods, design objects, lighting, books, magazines, film, music and a well-chosen collection of smart politically minded lines and eco-friendly pieces, as well. Whew!
DEUXLUX.COM Ahhhhh, I can smell the leather now. There’s really nothing better than a perfectly crafted leather clutch or hobo that fits your needs AND suits your style. The Deuxlux mother/ daughter team really got it right when they started their handbag line in 2005. The team relishes their creations and are known for their fun colors, unique textures and innovative embellishments with pieces that are sold in
retailers around the country and online. TENOVER6.COM Distinctive details, quality and stylish relevance. Focusing solely on accessories, all of the designers stocked in TENOVER6 are working outside the corporate-driven world of diluted fashion and are making subversive, thoughtful, highly creative, beautiful and original pieces. The shop includes not only a wide selection of shoes
CURRENTCODES.COM Sick of brand name clothing prices? Wish those designer boots would go on sale? Currentcodes. com may be able to help you out! With Currentcodes, you can find discount codes to stores like Bloomingdale’s, 7 for all Mankind, Chip and Pepper, Michael Kors and more. It’s different from other discount code sites because it has a full-time staff of trained individuals whose only job is to find new coupon/discount codes for you to use! They don’t flood your inbox with ads and don’t throw deals in your face. No hype, just current codes. Now, who wants to go shopping?
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [89]
[shopping] boutiques we
photos COURTESY OF THE DAILY STREET BLOG
london
b
eyond the Valley® is a design label and creative community in the center of London that supports and promotes emerging new talent across the fashion, art and design industries. Originally created as a notfor-profit space next to London’s famous Carnaby Street, the space provides new designers with a centrally located retail, gallery and studio space to launch new products into the market. This space is used as stepping-stone for 100 new designers, providing a platform to showcase and test out new ideas before developing them for larger scale production, and international distribution. Products in-store range from fashion, books, jewelry, illustration, furniture, wallpaper, design products and accessories. All items are produced in limited quantities, and most of them are exclusive to Beyond the Valley®. The “Side Room” of the unit is a dedicated space that’s used for regular art exhibitions by emerging talent and is
available for private hire. Over 100 recent graduates from Central Saint Martins, RCA, Goldsmith, and other art/design schools, are currently participating in this project. There’s also a new online shop, where you can buy merchandise from the London store, no matter where you are in the world! Beyond the Valley® has also been known to put on a party or two, but beer drinking aside, Beyond the Valley® also hosts pop-up events around London including Wonderville, for the London Design Festival, and Zakee Shariff’s event in the gallery space.
Beyond the Valley 2 Newburgh Street London, W1F 7RD, United Kingdom 020 7437 7338 www.beyondthevalley.com the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [91]
[shopping] boutiques we
Minnesota
w W7 Collective
1032 West Seventh Street Saint Paul, Minnesota 55102 www.w7collective.com [92] the fashion journal_winter 2010
W7 Collective is a creative space founded in the charming and historic West 7th Corridor/Brewery District in the heart of St. Paul, MN. Their passion is to meld extraordinary, American-based independent talents within a well-planned, clean, cohesive, yet edgy, gallery space. They’re dedicated to the perpetuation of good design, while creating an uncommon retail experience through the addition of live music and complementary food and beverages, culminating in a warm, fun, socially welcoming vibe. Their end goal: to link creatives and consumers by offering access to unique goods and services that not only offer true quality, unrivaled value, and basic good design, but also help to revitalize the local economy and strengthen community ties! H
[shopping] boutiques we
Miami
m
iami’s epicenter of all things cool, BASE has gained an international reputation for its extensive showcase of limited edition clothing and footwear, its eclectic mix of music, media, in-house hair salon, toys, re-worked furnishings, accessories and featured designers from around the globe. Under the curatorial eye of Steven Giles, the company continues to move the boundaries of what we consider to be a traditional retail store, is home to a wide variety of events from music to art to photography and has the distinction of an in-house singer-songwriter/production team, the highly celebrated Life Project. Change is the order of the day at BASE and its refreshing identity is maintained within a constant state of flux. With its commitment to all things effortlessly hip, BASE remains the country’s foremost resource for the savvy shopper.H
Base
939 Lincoln Road Miami Beach, FL 33139 305 531 4982 www.baseworld.com the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [93]
[shopping] boutiques we
New York
r Roni NYC 44 prince st 657 broadway 283 bleeker st 119 st marks place www.roninyc.com [94] the fashion journal_winter 2010
oni is a women's clothing boutique with 4 locations in Downtown Manhattan. The quaint locations are packed with illustrious designer clothing from around the globe. The Roni team searches the world over for the most unique designers and elusive styles. Exclusivity and luxury are what drives them. Their stylists strive to dress their clients in the freshest and most flattering styles to suit their tastes and needs. Customer service is their forte, style is their life. So extravagant... so elegant... so Roni.H
dawnandrelentless.com
[shopping] where to buy
base world 939 lincoln road miami, fl baseworld.com
ATLANTA
gamma player
strut boutique
LONDON
beehive co-op
2035 w. division st
1744 w. division st
alice & astrid
1831-a peachtree rd.
www.gammaplayer.com
www.strutchicago.com
30 artesian road
habit…a design collective
swaby store
AUSTRALIA
1951 w. division st
1933 n. damen ave
all saints
thread n bone
www.habitchicago.com
shernettswaby.com
5 earlham street
ledress
tangerine
1741 w. division st
1719 north damen
almost famous
www.ledresschicago.com
chicagotangerine.com
3-4 percy street
1340 a smith ave
mulberry & me
GERMANY
hollyg.com
2019 w. division st
best shop
austique
www.mulberryandme.com
alte schoenhauser str. 6
330 kings road
bestshop-berlin.de
austique.co.uk
beehiveco-op.com
aliceandastrid.com
253 wickham st threadnbone.com.au BALTIMORE
www.carnaby.co.uk
holly g boutique
www.aflondon.com
CHICAGO clothes minded
p.45
1735 north damen
1643 north damen ave
lala berlin
b store
clothesmindedchicago.com
p45.com
mulackstrasse 7
6 conduit street
lalaberlin.com
bstorelondon.com
connect chicago
penelope’s
1330 n milwaukee ave
1913 w. division st
overkill shop
beyond the valley
connect-chicago.com
www.shoppenelopes.com
köpenicker str. 195 a
2 newburgh st
overkill.de
beyondthevalley.com
fluevog shoes
riley
1539-41 n. milwaukee
1659 n damen ave
über warenhaus
birdcage
fluevog.com
www.shopriley.com
auguststr. 26a
8 upper st martin’s ln
ueber-store.de
birdcageboutique.com
the fashion journal _ winter 2010 [95]
[shopping] where to buy browns focus
shop at maison bertaux
itsasickness
nom de guerre
38-39 south molton st
27 greek street
132 ludlow street
88 n. 6th st
brownsfashion.com
shopatmaisonb.com
itsasickness.com
nomdeguerre.net
cochinechine
superlovers
lola y maria
market.63
74 heath street
64 neal street
175 rivington street
49 east houston street
cochinechine.com
superlovers.co.jp
lolaymaria.com
market63.com
coco ribbon
the world according to...
lolli by reincarnation
mini mini market
21 kensington park rd
4 brewer street
85 stanton street
218 bedford ave.
cocoribbon.com
theworldaccordingto.
lolli-reincarnation.com
miniminimarket.com
co.uk duffer clothing
pixie market
trunk brooklyn
29 shorts gardens
MIAMI
100 stanton street
68 jay st (front & water)
thedufferofstgeorge.com
base world
pixiemarket.com
trunkbrooklyn.com
plum
urban alchemist
124 ludlow street
343 5th st
plumstyle.com
urbanalchemiststore.com
939 lincoln road hoxton boutique
baseworld.com
2 hoxton street hoxtonboutique.co.uk
NEW YORK [manhattan]
jezebell
by robert james
sweet tater
[Upstate]
59 blandford street
72 orchard st
280 mulberry street
beehive co op
marylebone, london
byrobertjames.com
sweettater.net
337 e main st
kj’s laundry
bad dolly
tulipsnyc
74 marylebone lane
278 mott street
105 stanton street
PENNSYLVANIA
kjslaundry.com
ilovebaddolly.com
tulipsnyc.com
sugar
madfashionbitch
edge*nynoho
trunkt
67 columbia road
65 bleeker street
393 greenwich street
madfashionbitch.com
edgeny.com
trunktgallery.com
matches 85
hillary flowers
[brooklyn]
1032 west seventh st
85 ledbury road
40 clinton st
dear fieldbinder
w7collective.com
matchesfashion.com
hillaryflowers.com
198 smith st
mirage
in god we trust
193-195 brompton rd
153 ludlow
in god we trust
miragelondon.co.uk
265 lafayette
135 wythe
ingodwetrustnyc.com
ingodwetrustnyc.com
19 kensington park rd
roni nyc
maiden brooklyn
If you’d like to be added
nancypop.com
44 prince st
252 grand street
to our print directory, or
657 broadway
maidenbrooklyn.com
know of a boutique that
beehiveco-op.com
3703 butler st sugarboutique.com MINNESOTA w7 collective
dearfieldbinder.com
design collective 1311 26th st designcollectivempls.com
nancy pop
we should list, please
pop boutique
283 bleeker st
6 monmouth street
119 st marks place
noisette
feel free to contact us at:
pop-boutique.com
roninyc.com
46b n. 6th st
contribute@tfjmag.com.
noisettenyc.com [96] the fashion journal_winter 2010