Special Beauty/Grooming Issue

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SPECIAL BEAUTY EDITION 2010

BEAUTY IS AS BEAUTY DOES! HOW BEAUTY STARTS FROM THE INSIDE OUT

DIY SKINCARE SOLUTIONS ARE MONEY-SAVING HOME TREATMENTS THE BEST SKIN STRATEGY?

PLUS ...A LOOK INTO CAUDALIE SPA AND NEW BEAUTY PRODUCTS

ANNALYNNE MCCORD photographed by

DAMIAN SANDONE



COVER BEHIND THE SCENES

ULTIMATE ANNALYNNE See 90210’s AnnaLynne McCord heat up Hollywood’s Palihouse in our exclusive photo shoot – and read about the rising star’s next projects!

tfj _ the beauty issue [1]


publisher TFJ PUBLISHING editor-in-chief JEN GESIMONDO executive producer PETRA VINCENT

beauty editor ERICA MANISCALCO talent and media director SHANE TERENZI contributing photographer DAMIAN SANDONE contributing writters/ editors

CHRISSY DOOLEY, ALEXIS DEJORIA TRACEY GARRIGAN, DANIEL CONTI ANNA BRAND, LISA RICHARDSON, CYNTHA PARSONS MCDANIEL, BIANCA MUCCIA manicurist

JACQUELINE SAULSBERY

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ANNA MCCORD How a Rising Star Gets Glammy

makeup artists

GREGORY ARLT, JEN LOMBARDO hair stylist

STEVE MASON THE FASHION JOURNAL, LLC 921 washington avenue, 5d brooklyn, ny 11225 347 365 6549 www.thefashionjournal.com

twiter/ TFJMAG facebook/THEFASHIONJOURNAL ©2010 The Fashion Journal is published (4) four, times a year by TFJ Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from an authorized signatory of The Fashion Journal, LLC. The views expressed in The Fashion Journal are those of the respected contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. The Fashion Journal welcomes new contributors, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, illustrations, etc.

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BEAUTY IS AS BEAUTY DOES

There now, don’t you feel beautiful?


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SKINCARE SOMMELIER:

The Caudalie Vinothérapie® Spa at The Plaza

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PRO TIPS ON HAIR AND MAKEUP

Q&A’s with Fabrice and Scott Barnes reveal some trade secrets – and the lives behind the names.

07

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THE BEST 300 DOLLARS I EVER SPENT

A Makeup Master Class That Won’t Smash Your Savings Account

DYI SKINCARE SOLUTIONS Home run or strikeout?

SPECIAL BEAUTY EDITION 2010

BeAuty is As BeAuty does! HOw BEAUTY STArTS frOm THE INSIDE OUT

diy skincAre soLutions ArE mONEY-SAvINg HOmE TrEATmENTS THE BEST SkIN STrATEgY?

PLUS ...A LOOk INTO CAUDALIE SPA NEw BEAUTY PrODUCTS

AnnALynn Mccord photographed by

Damian SanDone

ON THE COVER: top JOIE

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RACETRACK TO RED CARPET

Alexis Dejoria Shares Her Beauty Tips!

art director ERICA MANISCALCO talent & media director SHANE TERENZI photographer DAMIAN SANDONE photographer assistant JEREMY SAUNDERS makeup artist GREGORY ARLT manicurist JACQUELINE SAULSBERY [creative artists management] Hair STEVE MASON [Creative Artists Management] stylist KATE RINEY stylist assistant WHITNEY BELL tfj _ the beauty issue [3]


THE NEW IT LIST

3. Bond No. 9 d

2. Lift Lab

!

4. T3 Travel Dryer d

EW

N 5. Estee Lauder Mascara d

6. Bobbi Brown Lip gloss d

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1. The Yantra Mat, yantraway.com. Available in 3 sizes and 3 colors, Prices starting at $49/mat; 2. Lift Lab Lift & Moisturize Daily Cream theliftlab.com $125; 3. Washington Square by Bond No. 9 An intense but contemporary eau de parfum. BondNo9.com or Saks Fifth Avenue [3.4 oz] $230; [1.7oz] $150; 4. T3 Featherweight Journey Travel Dryer t3micro.com $130Â 5. Estee Lauder Sumptuous Bold Volume Lifting Mascara EsteeLauder.com $23.50; 6. Bobbi Brown Smoky, Sultry, Smoldering collection Lip Gloss Available at Bobbi Brown counters and bobbibrown.com $20

1. The Yantra Mat d

Introducing the latest innovations from T3, Bobbi Brown, Lift Lab, Bond No. 9, and Estee Lauder


Nicole Miller

BEAUTY ON THE RUNWAYS

SS2010 NEW YORK

FASHION WEEK A woman’s many moods can be efficiently evinced with some masterful make-up decisions. Fashion Week NY provided some new ideas on fearlessly meeting the mirror.

LaCoste

LaCoste


Norwood is a private members arts club which provides a stylish and comfortable, meeting, eating and drinking haven in the heart of manhattan. The sumptuous interior design of this spectacular landmarked building is a well-kept secret and must be seen to be appreciated. The Club has a resturant, two lounge bars, a sixty seat screening room and event space as well a a private dining room for up to twenty four people and a walled garden. For more information please call the Club. 241 West 14th Street New York, NY 10011 USA 212 255 9300 We look forward to seeng you soon.


DIY [BY CHRISSY DOOLEY]

SKINCARE SOLUTIONS: HOME RUN OR STRIKEOUT? The trend of incorporating professional quality ingredients into self-service skincare has exploded in the floundering economy, with an ever-expanding arsenal of at-home skincare solutions that’s more impressive and effective than ever before. But does the onslaught of at-home laser hair-removal, acne solutions, skin-firming and microdermabrasion mean it’s time to ditch your dermatologist? Not so fast…

T

he latest wave of physician-grade, at-home beauty products promise medical-like results for a fraction of the cost. These options promise “professional results,” but keep in mind that any device cleared

art director ERICA MANISCALCO photographer DAMIAN SANDONE makeup artist JEN LOMBARDO hairstylist SHANE TERENZI model SARAH HARTSHORNE

by the FDA for public use will be lower risk -- and, therefore, often less effective -- than professional treatments. Furthermore, these high-tech gadgets require longer treatment times. According to research

firm Medical Insight, today’s $225 million home-use device market is expected to quadruple to $1 billion by 2012. Some rely on these new products to cut down on pricey office visits, while others maintain maximum tfj _ the beauty issue [7]


skincare results in between professional treatments. WWD, the authority in the world of fashion and beauty, described the industry today by saying: “If there’s one thing the recession has changed forever, it’s the way a consumer shops. And that includes how she shops for beauty, as experts say she is keenly focused on finding the best product for a good value, which doesn’t mean she’s going to settle — or splurge.” HAIR REMOVAL Some of the greatest demand for home use devices is in the area of hair removal. Silk’n SensEpil Hair Removal System ($499) and Tria Laser Hair Removal System ($795), the two leading home devices, were approved by the FDA for the treatment of unwanted hair. Considering that the cost of professional laser hair removal can set you back about $400 for a small area, these devices are the equivalent of approximately two sessions. At-home devices employ lower energies than [8] tfj _ the beauty issue

those available in a medical setting, resulting in a less effective outcome. Professional treatments offer a 70% reduction in long-term hair removal after only three treatments, compared to a 50-60% reduction in eightplus weeks with at-home devices. The Tria works by targeting the pigment in dark hair, effectively killing the hair follicle and prohibiting new hair growth, while the Silk’n SensEpil uses removable light cartridges that target the dark pigment in hair, heating and destroying the follicle. Neither matches the

power of professional devices, but both have been known to deliver good results in reducing the amount of hair growth. A major downside of the Tria is it’s intended only for use below the neck (legs, underarms, bikini line) and cannot be used on the face, while the Silk’n SensEpil can be used for both body and facial hair removal. The upper lip and chin are two of the most common treatment areas for professional hair removal, so investing in a device that fails to deliver results in this sensitive region may not be wise.


Tria offers a money-back guarantee within 30 days --hardly enough time to determine if the product is right for y ou --while Silk’n SensEpil has a 60-day money back guarantee. “A minimum 90-day return policy is a must since 30 days is way too soon to see any solid results,” says Marie Kelly, who has spent almost $4,000 in the past three years on in-office laser hair removal and electrolysis. “In-office treatments are administered every four to six weeks so it could take a few months for results to occur.” Marie spent over two years (and over $1,000) on laser hair removal at a top New York City spa before concluding the treatment hadn’t lived up to expectations. She switched to Lucy Peters electrolysis, which delivered impressive results after only eight treatments. Presently Marie is considering at-home hair removal devices for larger areas, since the cost of professional services is prohibitive. Nonetheless, professional hair removal for the face is worth the steep

price tag: “It’s too sensitive (and noticeable) an area to trust to a DIY device and worth the cost of visiting a top spa for maximum effects.” Less costly, yet still effective, is the eGlide Roller Electrolysis System by Verseo. A bargain at $99, the eGlide emits safe electrical energy to destroy the foundation of hair growth. Developed after the success of the ePen, which is ideal for removing facial hair, it was designed to cover larger areas. “Since in-office procedures can be cost prohibitive, either device can be used in conjunction with professional treatments as an alternative method of hair removal,” says Robert Ferreira, President of Verseo. Nevertheless, he cautions users to carefully consider if at-home hair removal is right for them: “Skin tone should be a concern when using a laser, making it potentially more harmful than electrolysis.” “The FDA mandates skin sensors used in laser device’s because they aren’t

for everyone,” Ferreira adds, “whereas the ePen can be used by everyone.” In addition, Verseo offers a 100% unconditional money back guarantee if you are not satisfied with the product. ANTI-AGING Botox remains the holy grail of non-surgical procedures, and with 2.5 million procedures performed in 2009 continues to be the most commonly performed cosmetic procedure in the United States. However, the cost alone often prohibits many from indulging in this treatment. Lately, the non-surgical facelift has been gaining popularity even among younger women trying to slow down the aging process. Doctors who administer Botox think incorporating it into a routine could be beneficial to the patient. The injectible causes muscles to weaken, no longer forming wrinkles which become harder to erase. Jeffrey LaFrance, MD, of LaFrance Medical Aestethics in Bristol, Conn., believes tfj _ the beauty issue [9]


Botox can be used as a preventative measure to avoid future wrinkles. “Regular use of Botox causes wrinkle-forming muscles to atrophy, and like any other muscle not regularly used it becomes weaker,” he says. “Going forward, you won’t need as much Botox, resulting in fewer follow-up visits.” Once a patient leaves his office, LaFrance expects them to practice good health and maintenance. “At-home products must be part of a good skincare regimen,” he says. “I have no problem with home methods -- in fact, it has to be part of a good regimen. If you start by consulting someone with expertise in cosmetic or aesthetic medicine, utilizing at-home products can help achieve your goals.” To ensure maximum potential he recommends NIA24, a product line clinically proven to prevent, repair and fight the signs of damage deep in the skin. According to the Mayo Clinic, “To what degree your skin improves depends upon [10] tfj _ the beauty issue

several factors, including how long the cream is used, its composition of active ingredients, and the potency of its ingredients.” NIA24 Eye Repair Complex ($65) was one of InStyle’s ”Top 100 Picks of 2010,” thanks to the rich cream’s star ingredient: Pro-niacin, a molecule that speeds cell turnover, resulting in smoother, brighter skin. An innovative leave-on exfoliating treatment, NIA24 Rapid Exfoliating Serum ($75) employs a timereleased Pro-niacin molecule (5%) to remove dead skin cells and strengthen the skin barrier. Designated the “Latest and Greatest in Skincare” by O Magazine, it’s an ideal alternative to abrasive peels, which can cause irritation. “Essentially, at-home skincare can slow down the aging process,” LaFrance says, ”but they must be incorporated into your daily lifestyle for them to actually work.” ACNE Still the gold standard of topical anti-acne treat-

ments, Retin-A was originally developed as an anti-acne cream but ended up better known for its skin-repairing and wrinkle-reducing properties. Applied nightly, Retin-A is scientifically proven to help control acne flare-ups while reducing wrinkles and removing fine lines. Originally prescribed Retin-A for acne in my early 20s, I began spreading the wonder cream all over my face in an effort to fight the signs of aging. Satisfied with the results, I can attest there is nothing else on the market that packs a punch like this miracle ointment. While my annual prescription can get pricey (a tube generally costs around $150 plus doctor’s visit), I can’t put a price tag on perfection. Less costly over-thecounter products with Retinol boast of professional-strength benefits, but contain lower concentrations of active ingredients. If your skin needs a temporary break from Retina-A, trying an over-the-counter Retinol is a great option. Gentle enough for daily use, the


RoC Retinol Correxion product line is fantastic. I’ve experienced great results with the Deep Wrinkle Night Cream and Deep Wrinkle Serum, but always return to my beloved Retin-A for an impact that no other product can replicate. When topical standbys are overcome by persistent pimples, dermatologists often administer photo and heat treatments to banish blemishes. While an in-office procedure can set you back roughly $1,000 for a complete series, innovative technology has developed at-home systems that zero in on zits. The Tända LED Professional Skincare System ($250) uses the same blue light as professionals (in a lower strength) to kill breakout-causing bacteria and cut the healing time of existing spots. The drawback is that Tända Acne Solutions are indicated for the treatment of mild to moderate inflammatory acne only (severe acne sufferers are out of luck). The Zeno Zit Zapper

($225) uses heat to kill facial bacteria and is also recommended for mild to moderate acne. A major flaw (no pun intended) is that it doesn’t work for blackheads, whiteheads, scars, nodular acne, and surface blemishes. The Zeno is designed for spot treatments rather than preventing allover facial breakouts, and as a result works best to prevent future acne breakouts. Also important to note is that acne-clearing devices do not address the underlying causes of acne. While they offer treatment, they do not provide an actual cure. For permanent acne solutions, a trip to your dermatologist is still necessary. MICRODERMABRASION Microdermabrasion is a skin resurfacing treatment used to rejuvenate and restore your skin’s natural glow. During this procedure the dead outermost surface of the skin is partially removed by light abrasion to improve conditions such as sun-damage, acne scars and dark spots. Originally

performed only by trained doctors using hand-held machines, microdermabrasion can now be performed at home with a plethora of DIY devices and creams. While this offers a less expensive option to improve fine lines, it’s not without risk. Since bursting onto the scene, the Clarisonic Skin Cleansing System ($195) [pictured below] has redefined how women wash their face. Using a patented sonic frequency, the professionalgrade skincare brush gently yet effectively scrubs your skin to loosen dirt and oil. One of Sephora’s Top Rated Products, it was also named to InStyle’s “Top 100 Picks of 2010.” Although we can all benefit from cleaner skin, there can be too much of a good thing. The user feedback is generally positive, but there is a significant amount of negative criticism pertaining to over-exfoliating and acne. Although she didn’t start out with blemishes, my sister-inlaw Andee experienced an adverse reaction after using the product.

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“The Clarisonic was too harsh on my sensitive skin. It left my face tight and irritated, and I felt like it made me break out.” she says. “I cleaned the brush after each use and let it air out to dry, but despite my efforts, it would still start to smell after a couple of days, which made me worried it was growing bacteria or mold.” Overall she was unhappy with her investment in the pricey device saying, “I don’t think it did anything special that an old fashioned washcloth couldn’t do. In my opinion, less is more when it comes to a healthy complexion, and keeping a simple

W TO HER BU E Y

routine of a gentle cleanser and cool water has worked best for me.” If you expect a facelift from any over-the-counter product, you are going to be disappointed. If it were that easy, everyone would be doing it. Though many DIY devices promise amazing results, they are often minimal. On the other hand, many of these products do improve the appearance of the skin, which results in women feeling better about themselves. When you consider this, perhaps the products are worth the cost after all.

Tria Laser Hair Removal System www.triabeauty.com Silk’n SensEpil Hair Removal System www.silkn.com eGlide Roller Electrolysis System www.verseo.com LaFrance Medical Aesthetics www.LaFranceMed Aesthetics.com NIA24 www.nia24.com Tända LED Professional Skincare System www.tandaskincare.com Zeno Zit Zapper http://myzeno.com Clarisonic Skin Cleansing System www.clarisonic.com

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Healthy Skin is Always in Fashion Skin cancer is almost always treatable if found early. So, take a skin self exam every month and see your dermatologist every year for a skin cancer examination. It could save your life.

SPONSOR:

866-41-SHADE www.ShadeFoundation.org


from the

RACE TRACK RED CARPET: TO THE

ALEXIS DEJORIA SHARES HER BEAUTY TIPS![14] tfj _ the beauty issue


B

efore a race, I part my slightly damp hair and comb it smoothly into a low ponytail at the nape of my neck. Then I twist the ponytail into a bun, securing it with bobby pins and keeping it in place with hairspray. When you take your hair down later it will be smooth on top with pretty waves at the bottom. (This also helps prevent helmet head!) Dry shampoo can be a lifesaver when the heat (and helmet) turns my long hair limp. I lift up sections at the crown and apply the powder, then flip my head over and shake my

hair vigorously, so all the powder is rubbed in. I don’t leave the house without sunblock-- I use one with a matte finish that is SPF 70. After every run I take an Olay face wipe and clean my skin, then reapply sunscreen. My favorite tool is my eyelash curler -- works wonders! Always have waterproof mascara with you -- mascara makes all the difference! Waterproof is key because it gets hot out on the track. This way I don’t ever have to worry about it running and it stays on for several hours without

having to add another coat (which turns mascara clumpy, anyway). Adding black or brown eyeliner instantly takes a low-key look from day to night. Even if I wear liner on the track, I will add more and “smudge” it a bit if I’m going to an event later, intensifying the look. I always keep rice paper blotting sheets on hand. These are perfect for taking away shine. Cherry chapstick adds just the perfect hint of color without being “too fussy.” This is great for on and off the track. Use a “multi-tasker” (like Benefit’s BeneTint).

ALEXIS DEJORIA IS BOTH A TOP-RATED DRAG RACER IN THE NATIONAL HOT ROD ASSOCIATION – HER TEAM, STEALTH MOTORSPORTS, IS ONE OF THE FEW TO BE OWNED AND OPERATED BY A FEMALE – AND, AS THE DAUGHTER OF PAUL MITCHELL HAIR CARE SYSTEMS’ JOHN PAUL DEJORIA, NO STRANGER TO THE RED CARPET.SHE CAN EASILY TRANSITION FROM THE RACE TRACK TO THE RED CARPET WITH A FEW EASY BEAUTY TRICKS.

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Multi-tasking makeup is great because you can dab a little bit on your cheeks for nice color, and if I want a more intense color on my lips, I’ll layer it under chapstick. One of my favorite tricks is using a little bit of shimmer powder on the inner corners of my eyes and below the bottom lash line to brighten the eye area. This instantly wakes up your whole face and fakes a good night sleep. You can also use it to highlight your cheekbones, the center of the forehead, chin, neck;-- when you’re wearing a strapless or shoulder-baring dress, go ahead and dust some on your shoulders. Clear nail polish is pretty much a staple. I have a “get your hands dirty” type of job, so I can’t be worried about chipping my new manicure. Don’t smoke! Nothing is worse for the skin than the nasty habit of smoking! … And, of course, confidence is the best accessory to any outfit! H

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TEMPTU RETOUCH POWDER

Retouch Powder is a lightweight, mineral-based formula that banishes shine and provides natural-looking, satin-soft skin. The built-in brush applicator holds just enough loose powder in its handle for perfect touch-up application. temptu.com. $43

DIORSHOW MASCARA

Christian Dior DiorShow Mascara is a deeply pigmented mascara that has a large, full brush to give lashes that sexy look in just one coat. Available at Sephora & Sephora.com $24

Beauty Editors Picks As an extreme perfectionist there is one thing that beauty editor and expert make-up artist Erica Maniscalco knows, it’s how to pick the best products to help make you like you just stepped off a high-end fashion photoshoot. Normally professionals hate to release trade secrets but for our readers Erica is willing to by pass that rule, just this once! Check out what she is toting around in her make-up case... ORIBE IMPERMÉABLE ANTI-HUMIDITY SPRAY

This anti-humidity finishing spray shields hair from frizz on the sultriest of days (and nights), protecting sleek blowouts and perfect curls alike. Miami-tested. Spray on dry, styled hair. Flip head over, repeat. oribe.com $38

LuMESH LIP GLOSS

The first gloss to combine color, vitamin and plumping agents. lips revel in absolute comfort, with a non sticky formula and lasts for hours. lumesh.com $24

TEMPTU AIRBRUSH MAKEUP SYSTEM

Get flawless, long-lasting, professional results easily and quickly every day with System + Face Kit. The system is dermatologist-approved, oil-free, and hypoallergenic -- perfect for those with sensitive skin. temptu.com. $225

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BEAUTYIS AS BEAUTY DOES

A voice was calling my name across the crowded room in excitement. When I turned to look, I could barely recognize the young woman flailing her arms in the air. “Is that Laura?” What I saw coming at me was a shock and I must have looked like a deer in headlights. [by Tracy Garrigan]

H

ow much time had passed exactly…and had Laura spent it all in a tanning bed? Her face was dehydrated, with aleather tan with deep creases surrounding her eyes and mouth. She always had a beautiful, bright smile, but now her teeth were whiter than my office walls. Her chunky layers of multi-toned blonde locks would have made Donatella jealous. How much time and money had been spent to achieve this look? I returned an awkward “You look great too” compliment so as not to be rude -- but I was never any good at poker. She had always been thin,

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but now she appeared sunken and malnourished. My girlfriend looked an unhealthy fright. As we caught up on lost time it struck me that Laura was almost 10 years younger than me. How could she look a decade older? I sipped my drink noticing that even her voice had changed. When she stepped out for a smoke I was left to piece together my version of what the rest of her daily habits were. My mind flashed through a workday fueled by Diet Coke and cigarettes, with possibly a bag of Combos for lunch. The following morning I had little trouble getting out of bed to go to the gym. A gnawing

sadness over my unexpected reunion the evening before still lingered within me. “She used to be so beautiful,” I thought. Not just average “girl-next-door” beautiful, but quite naturally stunning. I remembered how she broke my friend’s heart. If only he knew then what the years of self-neglect and misplaced time and money would do to her beauty.After the gym I made a stop at the drugstore for some personal items. I walked down a long aisle of tabloids and magazines -- Jen-Jolina-Katie-Elin-Yada-Yada.“How many ways can you style your hair?”, “Can the right eyeliner will keep your man faithful forever?”,


art director ERICA MANISCALCO photographer DAMIAN SANDONE makeup artist JEN LOMBARDO hairstylist SHANE TERENZI model AMANDA BAISINGER

“How to look like her in ten days or less! “ (arrow pointing to airbrushed supermodel). No, I didn’t know Britney struggled with cellulite too. I can sleep tonight. I passed aisle after aisle of beauty products, noticing how this beauty biz perpetuates itself and the multiple options one has to buy just to achieve a tiny fraction of this false -- yet socially accepted -- standard of beauty. Every city block and suburban town is littered with opportunities to buy yourself one step closer to this manufactured perfection. I wondered if mindless entertainment has been too successful in making us mindless. Just imagine it: Your entire zip code with thicker, fuller hair, not a blemish or corn in sight, cellulite-free and smelling like Mary J. Blige. Go ahead, take a moment. When you look around, what do you see? And yet, who among us doesn’t have a closet full of partially used disappointments well past shelf life that we just can’t part with, because we know what we’ve spent? It wasn’t the first time I had noticed it, but this time it took on new meaning. I thought of my young, but all-too-old-looking friend, killing herself on the inside while spending hundreds a month on the outside. Like buying lottery tickets, women (and a rapidly growing number of men) are throwing thousands of dollars a year away at a chance at someone else’s approval of how they look. I mean, would you really bother with your eyelash curler if you were alone on a desert island? I am not throwing stones here --I can draw a “cat eye” fit for a prima ballerina -- but it is all food for some serious thought.

tfj _ the beauty issue [19]


A recent study by the Nielsen Company found that two-thirds of U.S. consumers agree that the pressure to look good is greater than it was in our parents’ generation. And when you consider our current trend in tween spending -- a whopping $500 million annually, according to a 2008 report issued by NPD -- and the “diva-ization” of children that Newsweek reported in 2009, it’s not hard to imagine a mass meltdown in self-esteem on the horizon. As

know a bit about the art of aspirational marketing and the deliberate avoidance of transparency. Would you really be inclined to buy a product shown on a body or face that represented the majority --say your neighbor or your Aunt Bridgette? There is a reason the face of SmartWater is a dewy, glowing Jennifer Aniston. Who wouldn’t want more of whatever it is she’s got? If you want to argue this point, consider that marketing agencies would have changed

system whatever you put on top -- because it is. I’ve discovered when it comes to radiant skin, nothing works better than a great night of sleep and plenty of water. I’ve traded in my $50 Clinique night cream for going to bed at a decent hour and a $6 bottle of jojoba oil with vitamin E as needed. If redness and acne are your problem, take a long hard look at your diet for foods that cause inflammation and try to pinpoint allergies. The results

I’VE DISCOVERED WHEN IT COMES TO RADIANT NIGHT OF SLEEP AND PLENTY OF WATER. Jessica Bennett so eloquently put it in her Newsweek article “Generation Diva,” “If tweens can be convinced they need to spend to perfect their already youthful skin, its hard to imagine what they’ll believe at 40.” Already on high alert, Australia, the U.K., and France have all begun taking steps to curtail the phenomena by implementing a health warning on all ads that use digital modification, commonly referred to as airbrushing. The words “Photograph retouched to modify the physical appearance of a person” would be the fashion and beauty industries’ new “explicit lyrics” stamp. A call for transparency has begun! Having worked in the fashion industry for 15 years now, I

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their psychological strategy many, many moons ago if it wasn’t working. Not one of us would admit to it, but we are all guilty of trying to buy someone else’s beauty instead of working on our own. And what about transparency in the products we buy? If you dare not leave the house without your mask on then take a flip through Stacy Malkin’s book, Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry, for some great information on products and ingredients to avoid and why. Aside from poor business practices (animal testing and the like), we are talking about slathering on toxins from hormone modifiers to carcinogens. Think of your skin as your largest organ digesting into your

are much farther reaching, not to mention less expensive, than your constant trip down aisle 3 or your co-pay for Retin A. You might discover those same changes to your diet unexpectedly improve other areas of your life as well -- like, perhaps your mood. Feeling anxious or depressed lately? It is easy to forget you are one whole interconnected creature and everything is fueled by the same source. Stores like WholeFoods and the WorldWideWeb have made it more popular and accessible to find great natural alternatives to chemical and synthetic beauty products. Check out VegNews this coming November for the winners of the 2010 VeggieAwards, where crunchy


consumers everywhere award their home-tested favorites for all-natural hair care, makeup, and body care items. So if you just can’t live without that concealer or mascara, it’s great to know there are safer options out there and other people, not rabbits, have tested them already for you. I could have used such a list in my “goth“ years. Who knew that most dark hair dyes and mascaras are derived from coal tar and exempt from FDA rules?Another unspoken

the last time you sat still and quiet long enough -- without your IPhone -- to quiet your brain and listen to your soul? This is the most powerful way to cultivate your inner beauty, and as for the result, I will borrow a phrase from the Zendo known as “right thinking”: “Right thinking” prompts “right actions” and your beauty pours out from within. You choose beautiful words and beautiful actions to make others feel beautiful too. No stress occurs when you

drive, and passion for my own well being. Imagine the beauty and power each of us has inside just waiting to be harnessed! We all may need to work a little harder to fight off the hundreds of advertisements we see each day telling us that we are not yet beautiful without this perfect plum shade of lipstick, or whatever else they’re selling that day. We may need to remind each other as well that we all harness our own beauty -- and that beauty is really about mak-

SKIN, NOTHING WORKS BETTER THAN A GREAT component to beauty is stress management. One day at my local natural grocer I noticed bottles of “no stress” for sale at the counter. When I asked the cashier if it worked, she replied honestly, “I don’t know. I never tried it. I don’t get stress.” Somehow, I believed her. She had flawless skin and a relaxed expression -- not a wrinkle in sight. When asked for her secret, it was simply, “I just don’t think about it.” From the two deep creases between my brows I’ve had since age nine, it is obvious I have not spent enough time learning how to “put down” what is beyond my control. We know about dietary malnourishment, but what about nourishment for your soul? When was

are sharing a smile and no one cares how white your teeth are. As we buy into the marketing, we water the weeds that strangle our own sources of beauty and self-confidence, thus perpetuating the underlying disease. For me, it took an age not to compare myself so much to others (not that I’m immune) but it has significantly decreased since I decided to compare myself more frequently to …well, myself. I’ve accepted the hard cold fact that at 50+, Madonna is probably in better shape, but that doesn’t mean I’m going to roll up to Mickey D’s and super size the number 5. I’m going to stop and recognize that what I mostly desire is to have that same amount of self-commitment, discipline,

ing healthy, educated choices in the lives we live and how we choose to enhance them. Make a promise right now to yourself to nourish all the natural beauty you already possess through diet, exercise and self-love, and then support others in their struggle to do the same. So what happens when you start to define beauty for yourself? Who and what do you find beautiful and why? When do you feel your most beautiful self? I encourage you to try a week without your mask and see what you discover. Just as the mythical fire god always seeks fire, we are already composed of all that we seek. There now, don’t you feel beautiful?

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November 11 2010–January 29 2011

SVEN LUKIN

GARY SNYDER Project Space 250 West 26th Street, New York 212 929 1351 www.garysnyderart.com A fully illustrated monograph, Sven Lukin: Paintings, 1960–71, accompanies the exhibition.


FEATURED SPA THE CAUDALIE VINOTHÉRAPIE® SPA AT THE PLAZA

Enter Caudalie’s newest home within the walls of the legendary Plaza, New York’s own landmark château in the heart of the city. The perfect escape to transport you away from the rush and stress of modern daily life.

SKINCARE SOMMELIER

The Caudalie Vinothérapie® Spa at The Plaza Reviewed By Daniel Conti

THE PLAZA One West 58th Street,Floor 4 New York, NY 10019, Tel: 212 265 3182

Y

ou work hard every day (and often nights and weekends), so if you happen to stumble upon some spare time in New York City, why not treat yourself to a one-of-a-kind spa day at the Caudalíe Vinothérapie® Spa in New York’s iconic hotel, The Plaza? Here, in the midst of a fast-paced city, guests are wrapped in a cocoon of tranquility within luxe facilities that boast amenities such as Hammam steam rooms, a VIP treatment suite and the serene Caudalie “French Paradox” wine lounge [featured above]. tfj _ the beauty issue [23]


Founded by wife-andhusband team Mathilde and Bertrand Thomas, Caudalíe revolutionized the spa world in 1999 when they introduced the first-ever Vinothérapie® Spa in the heart of France’s Châteaux Smith Haut Lafitte vineyard,

*

Our Pick? THE CAUDALIE VINOSOURCE QUENCHING FACIAL {$185}

FEATURES • 4 treatment rooms • Vichy shower • Private VIP room for two • Vinothérapie® Spa signature barrel bath • 2 Hammans (1 men’s, 1 women’s)

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harnessing the untapped, restorative power of grapes and grapevine polyphenols. Now, in its only location outside of Europe, the Plaza’s Caudalíe Spa is continuing the trend, offering such progressive new services as Honey & Wine Wraps,

Red Vine Barrel Baths, Crushed Cabernet Scrubs, Fresh Grape Massages and a menu of world-famous Caudalíe facials with grape and active vine patents and Caudalíe products to purify, firm, energize and illuminate skin. H

Officially “hitting the shelves” in September, this 50-minute treatment will leave your face feeling nourished, refreshed and rejuvenated. It starts with a gentle, exfoliating scrub, adds some Pulp Friction and a full facial mas-

sage with Nourishing and Regenerating Concentrates, and wraps it all up with a Moisturizing Clay Mask, patented Spray Beauty Elixir and application of Pulpe Vitaminée Eye and Lip Cream and Vinosource Quenching Sorbet Cream.


PRO TIPS ON HAIR & MAKEUP Q&A’s with Fabrice and Scott Barnes reveal some trade secrets – and the lives behind the names. [Interviewd by Lisa Richardson]

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Q&A

How did you first come to realize that you wanted to work in makeup? Initially, I didn’t. I was a student at Parsons studying Fine Arts. worked for a fashion photographer who allowed me to work on my painting in the studio when we weren’t working. Finally with some prodding and some advice from a mentor, I got a push in the right direction -- into makeup.

SCOTT BARNES MAKEUP ARTIST

INTERVIEWED BY LISA RICHARDSON

Have you ever wondered what people mean when they say that you “give good face?” Is it simply putting on a good show for others or does it have more to do with appearance? The answer: It is truly a combination of the two. When you look good, you feel good, and in turn you have a nicer demeanor. Part of your personal style involves your makeup. Makeup can change from day to day and even from day to night. People often change their face with their outfit; however that may not always be necessary. Famed makeup artist Scott Barnes spoke with TFJ to help provide the tools for you to give good face.

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Do you think that there is a correlation between being a fine-arts painter and a makeup artist? Both allow you to create something from nothing. Makeup allows me to manifest someone’s aura and really personify each woman. It allows me to create my fantasy woman. What was it like to design your line? My first line was really exciting but it was done fast, maybe too fast. I was the top seller at many stores but I was young and my choices led to it going away. It’s a lot like losing a child. The line will re-launch soon. We’ve kept many of the top-selling colors and renamed them. And this line is going to be much bigger; it’s about 162 pieces. I’m older and wiser now; I can make better decisions for the line. What is your favorite “look” for a woman for day and for night?For day I like a clean and easy look: Natural-looking makeup with skinny jeans, a t-shirt, flats and a great bag. Night is all about drama: Bronze skin with a little glimmer and tousled hair is very sexy and never goes out of style.

Who influenced you the most in your career? As far as makeup goes, the late Wade Bandy was the best. The ‘70s are also a huge influence for me. Everyone was sexy and bronzy and very chic. The superstars were relaxed and not at all uptight; people just wanted to have fun and enjoy themselves. It was a very easy and comfortable time. What is your favorite makeup experience? There are so many, I have a story for just about everyone I’ve worked with. I’ve been around the world three times and overcome my fear of flying. I can’t just pick one; I wouldn’t trade this for anything. What’s next for you? Opening a store. I want to create a chill environment where you can get your makeup done and have some coffee and even hang out with me a little bit. It would be a real community experience.

Scott Barnes’ highly anticipated book, About Face - Amazing Transformations Using the Secrets of the Top Celebrity Makeup Artist, is now available at www. scottbarnes.com


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Q&A

FABRICE HAIR STYLIST

INTERVIEWED BY LISA RICHARDSON

A woman’s hairstyle can be a representation of many things. It could be how she is feeling that day or a symbol of an event that has recently occurred in her life. Whatever the case may be, hairstyles change. Even though that may be true for most, many women will stick with a hairstyle once they find the ever elusive

perfect style. In order to find and keep that style, women need a great stylist. Fabrice Gili of Frédéric Fekkai is just that stylist. His talent and vision will keep you looking stylish for years to come. [28] tfj _ the beauty issue

How did you begin your styling career? I began at an early age. I am a fourthgeneration stylist; my mother owned a salon in France. When I was old enough I moved to Paris to study with Jean Louis David. After a few years there, I had the opportunity to continue to study in New York City working with Bruno Dessange. I was lucky enough to learn from stylists like Serge Normant, Odile Gilbert, Michel Aleman and Frédéric Fekkai.

The ability to change color on a whim is such an appealing idea to most. What makes for a good color choice? Skin tone, color of eyes, and texture of hair are important things to consider when coloring your hair. You want to avoid over-drying your hair and go for a natural look. Clients need to be realistic about how far they want to go when changing the color of their hair. Keep it healthy, and good changes can be happy changes.

How does being a stylist in New York differ from Paris? The biggest difference is the way people outside the industry view the arts and entrepreneurs. There is a higher level of interest in this business and value to the eye to people here in New York.

How do you decide how a style will work best for someone? You want to consider a person’s social surroundings and what she does for a living. A haircut should match someone’s personality and lifestyle. You want to work around texture of the hair and the shape of her face for a perfect cut and style.

What is your favorite aspect of working with Frédéric Fekkai? There is such a behind the scenes machine like PR initiatives, marketing strategies and advertising campaigns. It’s nice to see Fekkai everywhere and reaching a large audience.

What is it like to head the styling during Fashion Week? The best part is really connecting with designers and creating a total, complete look. Sometimes the hair is a crucial piece to the show and enhances the whole theme of the collec-


tion. It’s wonderful working with talented designers, makeup artists and great models. What is your favorite styling experience? I was asked to cut Scarlett Johansson’s long hair for a movie she was making. She came to my house on a Sunday, we had a breakfast and then I cut her hair off!

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og ra ph ed by wr itt D am en by ia n An Sa na nd Br on an e d ph ot

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AN M N cC A OR LY N D N

How a Rising Star Gets Glammy

T

he 90210 starlet, 23-year-old, energetic and charitable AnnaLynne McCord, aims to dress like she can kick your ass. The actress, who has a designated “badass” side of her closet, chock full of leather and hardware-adorned belts, admits that colors used to intimidate her. Now that she’s adopted a Los Angeles lifestyle, as well as her CW sparkle-clad character, Naomi Clark, AnnaLynne has incorporated brighter pallettes into her every day life. “I’ve steered away from only wearing black, white, and

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“I’VE STEERED AWAY FROM ONLY WEARING BLACK, WHITE, AND GREY DRESSES...AND AM NOW LOVING CRAZY NEONS AND MUTED EARTH TONES.”

grey dresses,” she notes, “and am now loving crazy neons and muted earth tones.” The Atlanta, Ga. native discusses, with a subtle Southern twang, the dramatic difference between an all-grey/all-black New York City attire and colorful and patterned L.A. trends, but it’s not easy to pinpoint where her chameleon-like wardrobe and sense of style lies. “I dress for my mood, but more importantly, for my figure,” she says. Though it seems any outfit would fit seamlessly on her überslim physique, the actress states that there are trends

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dress SIMONE BY KATIE NEHRA WWW.SIMONECOLLECTION.COM


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that simply do not work. “Long shorts, forget it,” she declares. “I have an elongated torso, so I know that would never work for me.” Then again, a formfitting corset top, she says, complements her defined waistline. Having just wrapped a 90210 scene on Long Beach, Calif., AnnaLynne reflects on her fortunate life: “Sometimes I think to myself, Do I really get to do this in real life? It’s totally surreal.” However, after visiting Haiti last December, returning to California was a culture shock. “[In Haiti] everyone is so content— dancing in the streets, never complaining, and just completely resilient and affectionate.” Back in L.A., she says, “It was hard not to want to hit everybody in the face.” But her success’ impact on the amount of charity work she’s been able to accomplish has made it all worth it. “Giving back is the most selfish thing I do in my life, because it’s when I

feel the happiest.” want to end up.” AnnaLWith the help of remarkynne’s upcoming flick Gun, able social media influencco-starring 50 Cent and Val es, the actress has helped Kilmer, was right on target. to raise hundreds of thou“I got to be a badass, plus I sands of dollars for several played 50 Cent’s girlfriend, causes. “I realized that which was not bad at all.” life is a big, fun game in Like any other twentywhich, once something girl you get to “I DRESS FOR MY with a love a certain of makeup, MOOD, BUT MORE AnnaLynne’s point, with a steady IMPORTANTLY, FOR got a go-to incline in beauty bag, MY FIGURE,” your career, stocked with people her favorite just want to use you [for foolproof goods. In order to profit],” she says. “So I maintain blemish-free skin, decided, ‘If you’re going to she keeps her face bare do that with me, I’m going off-air, aside from a few to play the same game on staples that keep her lookyou, only for things I’m ing as natural as possible. passionate about.’” A fan of NARS “Laguna” In addition to her ongobronzer, AnnaLynne dabs ing charity work, AnnaLthe popular product on the ynne is focused on landing apples of her cheeks, left more serious roles, rather and right side of her forethan the typical vixen-like head, chin and nose. As for characters she’s previously her L’Oreal “Voluptuous” played. “I turned down a mascara, “Let me tell you, lot of comedy-themed projI do not hold out. I will ects, much to my agent’s always put on two full coats dismay,” she says, “but I on both eyelashes. There’s wanted my next movie to really no excuse [not to], be in the action genre— unless I know I’m going to that’s where I ultimately be crying.”H tfj _ the beauty issue [35]


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[LEFT] top ARYN K WWW.ARYNK.COM sheer shirt ROMONA KEVEZA WWW.ROMONAKEVEZA.COM [THIS PAGE] top ARYN K WWW.ARYNK.COM bottoms ALICE AND OLIVIA

art director ERICA MANISCALCO talent & media director SHANE TERENZI photographer DAMIAN SANDONE photographer assistant JEREMY SAUNDERS makeup artist GREGORY ARLT manicurist JACQUELINE SAULSBERY [creative artists management] Hair STEVE MASON [Creative Artists Management] stylist KATE RINEY stylist assistant WHITNEY BELL location PALIHOUSE, LA tfj _ the beauty issue [37]


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A MAKEUP MASTER CLASS THAT WON’T SMASH YOUR SAVINGS ACCOUNT HAVE YOU EVER WISHED YOU HAD A MAKEUP FAIRY GODMOTHER, SOMEONE WHO COULD TAP THEIR WAND AND MAGICALLY DELIVER A FLAWLESS FACE? A PERSONAL GUIDE AND AUTHORITY ON BEAUTY, SPECIALLY SENT TO ENHANCE YOUR FEATURES AND DEVELOP A CUSTOMIZED LOOK? I FOUND THAT PERSON AND NOW I AM REVEALING MY BEST-KEPT BEAUTY SECRET: ADELE GENOVESE OF THE TRISH MCEVOY CENTER.

O

ver a decade ago, I became a Trish McEvoy enthusiast after a makeover that changed my life. The makeup artist promised enrichment, but I walked away with a complete transformation. I fancy myself a self-trained, makeup-savvy neophyte who could still use a few tips each season. Enter Adele Genovese, who works behind the scenes at the Trish McEvoy Center, an enchanting beauty dreamland overlooking Central Park. Adele has spent years perfecting her technique as a Trish McEvoy makeup artist for photo shoots and fashion shows. Now profes-

sional results are attainable for those on the path to makeup perfection. Through word-of-mouth I heard about an amazing offering from the Trish McEvoy Studio: $300 for a one-on-one makeup lesson with Adele and you got to keep all the products! It sounded too good to be true, but it turns out the Make-up Lesson with Trish Artist is exactly that: One hour with Adele in the privacy of her beauty nook. She selects the right colors for you, followed by a lesson where you will learn her tricks of the trade. Adele demonstrates correct makeup application on

BY CHRISSY DOOLEY tfj _ the beauty issue [39]


THE LESSON IS INVALUABLE, BUT THE ACTUAL PRODUCTS MAKE THIS EXPERIENCE TRULY WORTHWHILE one half of your face while you carefully observe and learn her technique. The second half of your face is left up to you, with Adele’s guidance. Furthermore, every product selected is neatly packaged for you to take home in Trish’s large patented Makeup Planner system. The lesson is invaluable, but the actual products make this experience truly worthwhile: Eye shadows, eye liner, mascara, brow shaper, bronzer, blush, foundation, concealer, loose mineral powder, lipstick and lip gloss. Also, they throw in goodies such as eye makeup remover, a powder puff and long-handled cotton swabs. These products [40] tfj _ the beauty issue

alone would retail for more than the cost of the session. Throughout the year you can return for an appointment with Adele at no additional charge to address questions about the products and application. I schedule bi-annual appointments when the seasons change to update my palette. As the deep and rich hues of Fall transition into the sunny and shimmering shades of Spring, Adele helps me select new colors reflecting the time of year. I prefer the one-on-one attention in a brightly lit studio over the noisy counters of a department store. As I take in the entire collection of new products,

together we determine what I want to achieve with my look that season and how my needs have changed. By investing in Adele and Trish McEvoy, I can avoid wasting time and money on products that look great in the store but fail to deliver at home. It was here that I was introduced to the world of bronzer (a product I had not previously used) to deliver my healthy-looking glow. Now it’s an essential part of my daily routine, as are the Eye Base Essentials and the Treatment Foundation. After my first experience with Adele I designated it, “The best $300 you will ever spend on makeup.” Since I have never seen this beauty blockbuster advertised, makeup connoisseurs like myself spread the word to other savvy aficionados. Consider me your beauty fairy godmother and treat yourself to an appointment with Adele as soon as possible.H Dr. Ronald Sherman/ Trish McEvoy Skin Care Center 800A Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10065 800.431.4306 www.trishmcevoy.com


SPECIAL GROOMING EDITION 2010

SOLVING THE SHAVE WHAT TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN YOU’RE UNDER THE BL ADE

AVOIDING SNAFUS A LIT TLE AT TENTION TO HYGIENE CAN GO A LONG WAY.

PLUS ...A LOOK INTO THE PREMIER SPA FOR MEN AND THE LATEST GROOMING PRODUCTS

REID SCOTT photographed by

DAMIAN SANDONE


COVER SHOOT BEHIND THE SCENES

REID SCOTT A longtime fixture on “My Boys,” makes the move to Showtime’s newest hit series – and New York’s hip hangout Norwood.

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publisher TFJ PUBLISHING editor-in-chief JEN GESIMONDO executive producer PETRA VINCENT

beauty editor ERICA MANISCALCO talent and media director SHANE TERENZI contributing photographer DAMIAN SANDONE contributing writters/ editors

JOE CICCONE [DPT,CSCS], BIANCA MUCCIA DANIEL CONTI, ANNA BRAND PATRICK R. JOSEPH, CYNTHIA PARSONS MCDANIEL groomer

JEN LOMBARDO, ERICA SAUER stylist

18

REID SCOTT

For Actor Reid Scott, “The Big C” Includes a Classy Coiffure

WAYNE HARRIS, KATE RINEY, WHITNEY BELL THE FASHION JOURNAL, LLC 921 washington avenue, 5d brooklyn, ny 11225 347 365 6549 www.thefashionjournal.com

twiter/ TFJMAG facebook/THEFASHIONJOURNAL ©2010 The Fashion Journal is published (4) four, times a year by TFJ Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from an authorized signatory of The Fashion Journal, LLC. The views expressed in The Fashion Journal are those of the respected contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. The Fashion Journal welcomes new contributors, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, illustrations, etc.

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13

AVIODING SNAFUS

25

BREAKING THE MOLD

The growing interest in tattoos – and inroads made by female barbers – prove that fashion never stands still

16

INTRODUCING DERICK VAN DEN BUSSCHE

SPECIAL GROOMING EDITION 2010

solving the shave WhAT TO kEEP IN MIND WhEN yOu’RE uNDER ThE bL ADE (OR ELECTRIC ShAvER).

avoiding snafus A LIT TLE AT TENTION TO hyGIENE CAN GO A LONG WAy.

PLUS ...A LOOk INTO ThE PREMIER SPA fOR MEN ThE LATEST GROOMING PRODuCTS

05

BUILDING A BETTER YOU

Men’s exercise regimens needn’t be all drudgery.

Ried scott photographed by

Damian SanDone

ON THE COVER: creme velvet overcoat OUMLIL (OUMLIL.COM) navy blue suit and shirt PAYMAN UMAY BEDSPOKE (PEYMANUMAY.COM) hand died orange/red Indian cravat STYLISTS OWN photographer DAMIAN SANDONE art director ERICA MANISCALCO talent & media director SHANE TERENZI talent & media director assistant BIANCA MUCCIA groomer JEN LOMBARDO stylist WAYNE HARRIS location THE NORWOOD, NYC tfj _ the grooming issue [3]


THE NEW IT LIST Exciting and essential debuts from Bond No. 9, Prive, Nickel and Nuxe

2. Cooper Square by Bond No. 9 d

1. Prive Extended Texture Clay

3. Nuxe facial serum

!

EW

N

4. Nickel Maxymum Face Cream

5. Nickel Maxymum Eye Cream d

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1. Privé’s Extended Texture Clay priveproducts.com $25 ; 2. Cooper Square by Bond No. 9 A high spirited, holiday time eau de parfum. BondNo9.com and Saks Fifth Avenue. price: [3.4 oz] $230; [1.7 oz], $170; gold pocket spray, $95; 3. Sérum Crème Fraîche de Beauté - nuxe.com $41; 4. Nickel facial concentrate 50 ml nickelspanyc.com $72 5. Nickel eye concentrate 15ml nickelspanyc.com $50


new stimulus for constant progression. This workout can be done with minimal equipment and/or in a gym setting, indoorsand outdoors, togives you complete freedom and to prevent boredom.

BUILDING A BETTER YOU Men’s exercise regimens needn’t be all drudgery.

Nearly every guy wants to know how to get stronger, gain muscle and lose fat --and that is when the problems arise. Should I go heavy? Should I do cardio seven days a week, 10 hours a day? Should I isolate each body part? So many ideas and it’s easy to get lost in the junk. But, as demonstrated by 90210’s Trevor Donovan, a sensible workout can be worth its weight in gold. SO LET’S DIVE RIGHT IN! - WRITTEN BY JOE CICCONE [DPT,CSCC]

F

irst thing to do is make a decision -- better yet, a commitment to yourself -- that you are going to train smart and hard. That is the hardest thing to do, because there is no magic pill to take to make serious changes to your body (although there are masses that will try and convince you otherwise). Ifyou are the

typical New Yorker,you don’t have the time to spend hours lifting and more hours doing cardio. So what’s the solution? Simply combine both into one muscle-building and fat-burning session. I will give you the foundation and then you can mix and match to keep workouts new, fun and constantly adding a

Here we go: 1) Break you body into three sections: Upper body pushers, upper body pullers and legs. This is the foundation of the workout and gives you complete freedom in changing exercises daily to keep yourself motivated. 2) Forget about isolating at this point. You want the most bang for your buck, and by choosing big body exercises you will maximize your output in minimal time. The bigger muscles will be your primary movers, and the smaller muscles will assist, so both are getting utilized. I will provide you with a list of exercises for each section. 3) The key to this routine is to go from one section to the other without stopping. Doing this will keep your heartrate up, and switching body parts will give your tfj _ the grooming issue [5]


the reps or go heavier and decrease the reps. The SAID principle (Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demand) applies here. This is basically saying that keep making progressions with reps, weight and changing exercises. This will shock your system into continuously making adaptation. These adaptations include muscle growth, decreased body fat and increased aerobic capacity. Train smart, train hard and reap the benefits!

muscles a chance to rest while challenging the others. 4) You want to keep the repetitions within the 10-15 repetition range so that by the end of each set you’re feeling a burn. If you are knocking out 20 reps the resistance is too light; if they fall down to six, it is too heavy. After you complete a push, pull and leg circuit that counts as ONE ROUND. The goal is to complete 10 rounds. 5) Every two or three rounds you should switch up the exercises for each section. This allows different aspects of each section to

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be challenged so that your continue to grow and hit all areas of a muscle. 6) Once you complete the 10 rounds you can mix in two or three biceps, triceps, shoulder, and ab rounds to polish off. These will consist of curls, triceps extensions, shoulder presses, and bicycles for abdominals. The beauty of this type of workout is you have complete freedom. It is this freedom that will allow you to keep workouts fresh and challenging, and to avoid plateaus. Depending on how you feel, you can go lighter and increase

PUSH EXERCISES • Pushup • Incline pushup • Incline pushup on one leg • Bench press • Incline dumbbell press PULL EXERCISES • Rows • One-arm row • Pull-ups: narrow grip, wide grip, and neutral grip • Lat pull down • Bent over row • Theraband one arm rows • Dead lifts LEGS • Bodyweight squat • Split squat • Bulgarian squat • Squat jumps • Lunges sumo squat • Deadlift


top ALO bottoms and shoes REEBOK art director ERICA MANISCALCO talent & media director SHANE TERENZI photographer DAMIAN SANDONE assistant JEREMY SAUNDERS stylist KATE RINEY assistant WHITNEY BELL groomer ERICA SAUER [Creative Artists Management]

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Bespoken GROOMING ON THE RUNWAYS

SS2010 NEW YORK

FASHION WEEK Clothes may make the man, but grooming and beauty products have an important part to play as well, as Fashion Week NY conclusively proved.

Perry Ellis

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LaCoste


THE ART OF SHAVING SKIN CARE KIT

The Art of Shaving Skin Care Kit offers modern gentleman the essentials of skin care in a convenient carry-all pouch. Each Skin Care Kit includes Facial Wash, Facial Scrub, Moisturizer, and After-Shave Mask®. 100% Pure Essential Oils for sensitive skin TheArtofShaving.com. $65

Editors Grooming Picks Looking for some quick, easy – and sensibly priced -solutions to your man’s (or your own) grooming needs? Here are our talent and media director Shane Terenzi’s suggestions for the coming months, mixing some stalwarts with some fresh ideas, and all chosen to help make him look like a million bucks.

JOHN ALLAN’S SLICK WATER PRESHAVE SOLUTION

CHI SILK INFUSION

The revolutionary preshave that creates a slick surface for the blade to glide over, reducing cuts, nicks and irritation. johnallans.com. $29 [2 fl. oz/59 ml]

Alcohol free reconstructing leave in treatment, enriched with pure natural silk, wheat and soy proteins. farouk.com.com. [2 oz] $13.50 [6 oz] $24 [12 oz]$41

ACQUA DI GIÒ FOR MEN

A light, distinguished EDT inspired by the fresh sea, warm sun and the richness of the earth. giorgioarmaniparfums.com 1.7 fl. oz eau de toilette -$52.50 2.5 fl. oz eau de toilette - $69.50

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Healthy Skin is Always in Fashion Skin cancer is almost always treatable if found early. So, take a skin self exam every month and see your dermatologist every year for a skin cancer examination. It could save your life.

866-41-SHADE www.ShadeFoundation.org

SPONSOR:


FEATURED SPA NICKEL SPA FOR MEN

A GOING THE DISTANCE

NICKEL Spa for Men REVIEWED BY DANIEL CONTI

77 8TH AVENUE NEW YORK, NY 10014 (212) 242-3203

new generation of men has emerged the world over: Men who really care how their bodies look and who actually look after themselves. This goes well beyond the much-talked about “metrosexuals” craze of recent years; after all, masculine beauty was badly in need of an injection of fun and whimsicality for some time. This is why NICKEL developed a whole line of funky and in-your-face products, such as the famed Morning After Rescue Gel – the magic wand for the hangover and a cult product to partygoers the world around. tfj _ the grooming issue [11]


Word of mouth quickly spread, and in a matter of years NICKEL was a serious to-be-reckoned-with player in cosmetics for men. In 2001, NICKEL opened its flagship spa in New York City with over 4,300 sq ft, finally

*

Our Pick? JET-LAG TREATMENT 60MIN {$110}

offering men a venue to feel comfortable in – where they could treat themselves to massages and actual beautician services, such as a full salon, facial skin treatments, hair removal, manicures, etc. H

After a long flight, this enlivening and rejuvenating treatment will help transport you quickly into the right time zone and get your body back in business. First take a breather with an invigorating inhalation, then lie back while body brushing and deep yet stimulating massage techniques mobilize tissue and SERVICES • Hair salon • Messages & Body Treatment • Facials • Waxing • Advanced Skin care

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encourage effective circulation, digestion and elimination. Next, re-set your body clock with an uplifting and balancing Ayurvedic scalp massage and facial massage to release sinus pressure and optimize regular breathing. This is a must-have treatment for any man who has traveled the distance.


M

en’s grooming is rapidly becoming one of the fastest

growing divisions of the cosmetics industry. Many companies are now launching products specifically designed for men. But there are some issues that do not fall under grooming; these issues are called hygiene. You might think these are minor issues,but they are not to the people around you, especially your partner. As you go through this list don’t look at it like I am nagging

art director ERICA MANISCALCO photographer DAMIAN SANDONE groomer SHANE TERENZI model NEIL ANDREWS

The how-to-guide:

AVOIDING SNAFUS

you; look at it like a hygiene lesson you never received or might have forgotten. As one of my favorite nursery rhymes goes: “Head, shoulders, knees and toes.” We all have them; the more pressing question is how we take care of them. Here are my head-to-toe tips to help you avoid any of these snafus.

explained by Bianca Muccia tfj _tfjthe _ the grooming beauty issue [13]


PROBLEM

BODY HAIR Hair removal for men is becoming more and more popular. Gone are the days when having a “sweater” is sexy. Let’s take a cue from the famous quote, “No hair should be left behind.” Many men have no problems growing hair in unwanted areas. So what is the best way to remove that unwanted hair? Changing this could add electricity to any relationship.

some products could smell and make a mess. ($$$) Another option is lasers. Hair removal lasers are a much more long term way to get rid of unwanted hair in any area. It is effective but expensive. Treatments, depending on area, can run between $150 -$1,500 per treatment and chances are you need more than one zap. Ouch! Consultations are free in most spas – go in and speak with a laser technician.

SOLUTION

($) Purchase a razor and hair removal lotion asap. Shaving with a good razor is just as important as the shaving lotion that you use. Take a look at the nearest drugstore and consider your options. Nair, for example, is not just for women anymore. Body creams are a great option because they work instantly, are very inexpensive, and painless. The con is that [14] tfj _ the grooming beauty issue issue

PROBLEM

BODY ODOR Nothing is worse than hearing that you are emitting a foul odor. Learn the difference between deodorant and antiperspirant and chose one. SOLUTION

($) After you are squeaky clean, apply your choice of either deodorant or antiperspirant. Please note that an-

tiperspirants do not prevent odor; they just block your sweat ducts, thus reducing the amount of perspiration that is able to reach your skin. Deodorants don’t stop you from sweating, but work to eliminate odor. Choose one and use it regularly. ($$) Splash on a cologne or after shave. The fragrances in both of these can also be used to cover up funky smells. You can choose very high-end name brands or go with a more reasonable drugstore brand. In a pinch you can spray cologne on your socks or in your shoes. The important fact here is to not smell like a gym locker. PROBLEM

BAD BREATH I have no analytical proof of this but I guarantee if you take a survey of people who have gone on first dates with people with bad breath, there is no second date. News flash! They make travel size Scope and Listerine pocket packs for a reason. That reason is convenience.


PROBLEM

ACNE Everyone gets pimples, but this doesn’t mean you have to live with them. SOLUTION SOLUTION

($) To paraphrase the Boy Scouts: “Be prepared.” Keep gum or breath strips in your wallet or man purse. It’s cheap and it could save you from embarrassment. ($$) Start with gum, breath mints, breath fresheners or, one of my personal favorites, Colgate Wisps. These Wisps have both a mini-brush and a tooth pick. Purchase all of these products immediately. Oh, and nothing works better than good ol’ fashioned toothbrush and toothpaste. ($$$) More serious problems with halitosis may require a trip to a dentist.

($) An over-the-counter spot treatment will help expedite the healing of your blemishes. A good facial wash and moisturizer never hurt either. Get a free consult at a local medispa to determine what type of skin you have and what products they would recommend in your price range. ($$) Treat yourself to a facial. TIP: The best deals are always during spa week. You will relax and have your face looking fresh, fabulous and zit-free in no time.

PROBLEM

DIRTY HANDS AND FEET Keep your fingernails and toenails clean. No goo, gunk or grime under any of your nails is allowed Dirty is naughty -- and not in a good way. SOLUTION

($) Take a trip to a local drug store and purchase an orange stick. It is a long, thin, wooden stick with points on both ends. You have probably seen them used at nail salons. Each one costs about $3 and can be used (gently, please) under the nails on your hands and under your toenails. ($$) Book a manicure and/ or a pedicure at a local nail salon (you can skip out on the polish part) and enjoy!

TIP: Be careful not to layer too many things on top of your skin if are acne prone. Extra tip: Refrain from shaving right before or after your treatment. Give your skin at least 24 hours pre- and post-facial.

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introducing

Derick van den [16] tfj _ the grooming issue


DERICK VAN DEN BUSSCHE, a native of Florence,

Italy, has enjoyed a long and successful modeling career, headlining ads and shows for highprofile designers such as Armani, Ferragamo and Prada. He’s traveled (and surfed) around the world, and has been featured on the covers of Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, GQ, W, V, FHM, and many others. While he has found a new passion in photography, van den Bussche still continues to look pretty for the camera. When you’re modeling, as you are currently, what do you do to keep in shape? I am really healthy-oriented in my life—at least I try to be. I do a lot of yoga. A little bit of boxing, it’s good cardio—I used to kickbox from 14 to 18 years old. When I’m not in New York, I also like surfing and some sports. That’s about it. I was never really one of those models that cared so much about everything, about figure. I’ve never worked out at the gym—I do a little bit, but I’m never going to be that muscly body. The only thing I use a lot everyday is wax. That’s it, hair wax. I need to wax my hair every day, that’s it.

at all to be a model. I try to eat healthy, all organic. Meat, fish, I eat absolutely everything. I don’t even cut down on carbs. Every single day for lunch I eat pasta. I love pasta and pizza. I’m Italian. (laughs)

What’s your diet like? Well, it’s not really a diet; I eat like a pig. (laughs) Everybody sees me and they don’t believe, since I’m so thin, I don’t have a body

Do you use face cream? I use face cream, yeah it’s true. (laughs) I use a lot of my girlfriend’s products. I don’t wear makeup, like most other

Right now you have a beard, when you model, are you normally clean-shaven? I always have a beard, especially for modeling. I just like it now. Only for the last five years I’ve been doing the beard; before that, I didn’t really have a beard, but now it’s nice and rich. I probably only shave about five times a year with shaving cream and a razor, otherwise I just trim with a hair trimmer.

By Dave Smith

Bussche

people think. Some [male models] do, it’s ridiculous, I’d never put powder—are you kidding? There is a limit. I started using cream with my first girlfriend, because she was a makeup artist, and she kept saying, “You gotta use cream, you gotta use cream, it’s good for you.” But it’s just like lip balm: once you stop wearing it, your skin gets so used to it that your skin cracks up. You look like a monster. I don’t have any brands of my own; I just use my girlfriend’s stuff, her face creams, whatever she buys. What are you working on for the future? My immediate goal right now is photography, to make it with my own photography, to support myself just with that. As cheap as that sounds, we need to make enough money to live in society. Maybe when I move to Costa Rica I may not need to deal so much with money, but if I can reach enough to buy the place in Costa Rica… I’d want to live a happy life with close people, friends, and family. I want to enjoy a life like that. H tfj _ the grooming issue [17]


R O T C A R O F T T O C S A S D E D I U L E C N I RTHE BIG “C”OIFFURE C Y S S A L

ming losso the b a ties r with Yorke “It literally leek, w e s N . y tie for a ative old n tage skinn -to piece r a e y o in e 34my g od, v ott, th ves a go says. “It’s a Brand} c S he Ann Reid career, lo ther,” ” { By acting outfit toge ssic look. cla whole

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blazer PEYMAN UMAY (PEYMANUMAY.COM) custom shirt ALEXANDER TEDFORD (ALEXANDERTEDFORD.COM) cufflinks PAULA JEROME jewelry (PAULAJEROME.COM) pants and vest LADOLFINA (LADOLFINA.COM) pocket square HERMES tfj _ the grooming issue [19]


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ot that he’s always sporting a tie. “Today, I’m in the same clothes I’ve worn for two days,” he admits, rocking black jeans, a worn t-shirt and bright yellow loafers. “This works for me—so I’ll most likely wear this tomorrow too,” he says jokingly. I think. But Reid does enjoy the act of putting together an outfit, at least in theory. “I get a total kick out of shopping,” he says. “I put thought into it so that when

it comes to getting dressed, I can just grab anything and it should work.” He compares style to playing a character. “As an actor, it’s fun to slip into a new skin—clothes definitely change the way you feel.” Typically, Reid’s laid-back casual gear is reminiscent of Brendan Dorff, his character on My Boys, the TBS comedy that stretched into its fourth and final season this year. “My Boys was an experience I don’t think I’ll ever have again,” Reid reflects. “I made best friends out of

[the show]—we were in each other’s weddings.” Now Reid has shifted from his football-loving, rock band t-shirt-wearing character to the well-groomed Dr. Todd Miller on the new Showtime series, The Big C. “The subject matter causes a different vibe on set. It’s a dark comedy, dark being the operative word,” he explains. Reid talks about the tremendous impact the show has had on his growing acting (and, he hopes, directing) career and about the incredible guest appear-

T OUGH AN H T T ...I PU ESSED, I C G N I DR OPP TING OF SH T E T G U O ES TO WORK.” KICK M L O A C T A TO EN IT T SHOULD T H E W G “I AT DI SO TH THING AN T I O NY INT AB A R G JUST

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long burgundy belted sweater OUMLIL (OUMLIL.COM) tunic lennon shirt THEODORE ALLEGRINI (THEODOREALLIGRINI.COM) leather and cotton vest, leather pants, and polo boots and hat LADOLFINA (LADOLFINA.COM) gloves by PORTOLANO (POTOLANO.COM) tfj _ the grooming issue [21]


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ances. Liam Neeson was phenomenal, he says: “Talk about a guy who walks into a room and commands attention.” The Syracuse grad says his intention from day one was to be a director. “It all started freshman year when I noticed that the film students weren’t using the drama students in their work. It was like chocolate and peanut butter never blending together.” From then on, he adds, “I’ve approached everything I’ve done, for better or worse, with the eye and mind of a director.” Reid refers to himself as a jack-of-all-trades. When he’s not busy perfecting his acting or working on his pending directing career, he can be found indulging in his many hobbies, including snowboarding, surfing, photography, writing, painting, and playing music -- specifically, the drums, guitar and piano. “I constantly need


music playing in my apartment—it’s my therapy,” Reid says. As we talk, Ra Ra Riot plays in the background. His latest band discoveries: Raccoon and Whitest Boy Alive. His beauty regimen remains minimal. “No eyebrow waxing for me and anyone who knows me, knows I hate to shave,” the typically scruffy actor says. But Reid has discovered moisturizer. “It becomes a necessity, as drinking and smoking finally take a toll on your skin,” he admits. He also likes to use body spray and deodorant, but the brands fluctuate: “I usually just wear whatever they give me on set.” As for his hair, “I don’t brush. I just get out of the shower and let it do its own thing.” In fact, The Fashion Journal shoot was the most done up he’s ever been. He says proudly, “My hair was coiffed like it’s never been coiffed before.” H

trench coat, white cotton button down,and wool pleated kilt THEODORE ALLEGRINI (THEODOREALLIGRINI.COM) navy blue vest and navy blue silk cravat LADOLFINA (LADOLFINA.COM) tfj _ the(POTOLANO.COM) grooming issue [23] tscarf by PORTOLANO


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photographer DAMIAN SANDONE art director ERICA MANISCALCO talent & media director SHANE TERENZI talent & media director assistant BIANCA MUCCIA assistant DERICK VAN DEN BUSSCHE groomer JEN LOMBARDO stylist WAYNE HARRIS location THE NORWOOD, NYC [24] tfj _ the grooming issue


The growing interest in tattoos – and photograher DAMIAN SANDONE

inroads made by female barbers – prove that fashion never stands still. tfj _ the grooming issue [25]


Q&A

photograher PATRICIA SANTOS

DAVID SENA TATTOO ARTIST

INTERVIEWED BY LISA RICHARDSON

Tattoos are one of the oldest forms of body art. This astounding art form dates back to prehistoric times and although techniques have changed, the concepts and reasoning have stayed the same. Our society has begun to show its openness towards tattoos and their increasing prevalence in the modern world with shows like Miami Ink. More and more people, regardless of their origins, are getting tattoos, and it’s that love that helps keep this art form alive. TFJ got the chance to speak to renowned artist David Sena about his love of and involvement in this wonderful culture.

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Did you start out always knowing you wanted to become a tattoo artist? No, I just fell into the business by getting a job at a tattoo studio called Kaleidoscope Tattoo down on Canal St. back in ’95, while I was going to school at The Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art. That was when tattooing was still illegal and underground in New York. I got a job helping out and doing whatever needed to be done and started drawing designs for people and helping the tattoo artists. While watching the artists working one day I thought, “I could do that!” So I stuck around and learned how to tattoo. What do you think the allure is for true lovers of this art form? I think it’s about a few things and most likely different for everyone. But it’s [mostly] about the permanence in the body/skin/life, the adornment and voluntarily changing your physical self to then transform your spiritual self. The main thing I’ve learned about tattooing people for 13 years is that they simply make people happy to be alive! How do you feel about the negative reactions, often misguided, given to those who have tattoos? Don’t think about it much. Tattoos are not for everyone.

Do you think that the tattoo industry has evolved through the years? If so, do you think that it will continue to evolve? Yes, the industry has definitely changed a good amount since I’ve been in it. It’s become saturated and there are just way too many tattoo artists these days. There are a lot of good artists but just so many more not-sogood ones. Also, tattoo imagery and vocabulary have become very trendy and fashionable, with the TV shows and clothing lines and such. These days tattoos are starting not to be so taboo. I’ve tattooed all walks of life, especially working in New York, and a large amount of people have tattoos these days. I’ve tattooed 86-year-old grandmothers. What is your favorite tattoo that you have ever done? That’s a touchy question; I have done thousands of tattoos and have several favorites. These days I have new favorites here and there. Sometimes when I do a tattoo and I really like how it came out I start to wish I had that tattoo on me! That’s when I know it’s a good one. If you could give some tips to someone thinking about getting their first tattoo, what would they be? Go big and go for it. Join the club!!


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Q&A

PAUL MOLÉ BARBERSHOP

INTERVIEWED BY LISA RICHARDSON

Unlike for women, men’s grooming isn’t often given a lot of thought. We know they shave and cut their hair, but we rarely think about the true history and culture involved. Just like in a salon, barbershops offer a great family atmosphere, bonds between stylist and client, and of course there’s always the gossip. A fabulous example of a shop that provides all of this and more is Paul Molé. Holding the title as the oldest standing barbershop in New York City, Paul Molé has kept this tradition and atmosphere alive. TFJ was lucky enough to sit down with Diane Wood, a Master Barber at Paul Molé, to get an inside view into the world of men’s grooming. [28] tfj _ the grooming issue

What is it like working with your father at Paul Molé? It’s awesome! My father is one of my role models, so I love learning everything I can from him. He knows everything about barbering, the barbershop history, hair/ skin issues and more. There are so many things that he knows from going to school in London that I never learned and it truly is a great asset. Being a female barber is such an amazing idea. Do you ever get any guff? It’s a great job for a woman. I did get a little guff at barber school being the only female. That was, of course, until my fellow students learned that I grew up in the business and knew a thing or two that they didn’t; they were then much more accepting. Other than that, it’s been very welcoming. What do you love most about being a barber? It’s a fun job. You get to interact with all sorts of people. Since male clients get their hair cut so often, you really get to know them on a somewhat personal level. It’s very similar to the relationship be-

tween a woman and her stylist. Depending on the man, he may come in every week or every two weeks, and guys talk about everything from jobs to their family. What do you think keeps New York coming back to Paul Molé? What sets you apart? Our history is what makes us different. We are officially the oldest barbershop in the city. Our look is often imitated but never duplicated. There are shop heirlooms that are still there today that are from the original Paul Molé, which was established in 1913. What has been your favorite moment in the business? Being on David Letterman was awesome. It opened the doors for me to do so many other cool and exciting things in barbering! Editors from many magazines like OK, Maxim and Men’s Health have called me to work with them and I think that experience has really helped.


How has the King of Shaves product line, and those like it, changed how people view barbers and male grooming? KoS was the first shaving company to get shaving oil stocked in major retailers. Before KoS, shaving oil was very hard to find unless you had access to barber supply stores, which are trade only. It brings that shop feeling right to the customer. What tips can you provide in picking the perfect barber? Every man needs a reliable, skilled barber in his life. Having a regular barber will ensure that you get a consistent, sharp haircut with every visit. I recommend asking close family and friends where they go and make sure you explain what you want. When making your appointment, explain to the receptionist what type of hair you have and what kind of cut you are looking to get. If you usually have scissors on the top and a #2 with clippers on the back, say that. Be specific; barbers only ask a lot of questions to ensure your happiness.

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arti director ERICA MANISCALCO model PATRICK O’BRIEN photographer DAMIAN SANDONE groomer SHANE TERENZI

Solving the Shave By Patrick R. Joseph

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LET’S START WITH A RIDDLE: Some men do it for interviews. Other men do it for romance. If you’re a Yankee, you do it to play. For those who don’t plan on being spotted outside, it’s not worth attempting more than a few times a year. You’re probably not stumped in the least by this modern day “Riddle of the Sphinx.” Shaving is just one of those mundane tasks that men do. For many it’s as passive an experience as checking Facebook. Since its inception, shaving has only been about looking “presentable.” However, for a lot of men, shaving doesn’t achieve this one purpose. Blackheads, acne, razor burn, cuts, sores, general redness and skin agitation are typical results of the average shave. Especially for men with thick or coarse beards, shaving is the blight of morning routines. As a result, guys turn to the electric razor –a device that makes shaving faster and can reduce or even avoid its negative side effects. The drawback? You won’t be able to make you skin feel like a baby’s behind, and if you try to by ravaging your face with an electric razor, the result will still be cheeks with the texture of kiwis plus the same dermatological problems you were trying to avoid in the first place. The answer? Wet shave.

Sure, you’ve tried it and that’s why you switched to electric, but a proper wet shave is actually much more likely to avoid trauma to your skin. Think back to those old media images of father and son. Dad skillfully maneuvers a straight razor up and down his visage until he looks thirteen. Then, he shows his 13-year-old son how he made it look like they were twins. Long gone are the days of a father eagerly watching junior put his little life at risk with a hand-me-down straight razor, but this tradition was actually much better for the skin then the modern method of using disposable blades and electric razors. We can attribute this marvel to the constant hydration of skin, well-lathered soap, and shaving expertise involved in using a straight razor. Sure, you’d get a nick every once in a while, but you looked good. Understandably, most men don’t care to have a better shave if it means risking selfmutilation or getting infected by the rusted dull scrap-knife your father’s father once used to cut the forest off his chin, but you don’t necessarily have to face these risks. Following these commandments shall set you free from facial distress and bring you closer to epidermal nirvana.

CLEANLINESS IS CLOSE TO GODLINESS Leaving dirt on your skin before shaving can lead to clogged pores, blackheads, irritated skin, razor burn, etc. Get an exfoliating face wash and rub it deep into your skin for a few minutes before you start shaving and make sure to use hot water. Skin and hair follicles react quite well to a high temperature. Hot steam makes your pores open up, which in turn makes hairs stand at attention prior to decapitation. For a time-saving and even more spiritually fulfilling experience, pick up a fog-less mirror and shave during a hot shower. LATHER, RINSE, REPEAT Lathering on shaving cream is the equivalent to doing good deeds, praying, and heading to a house of worship once a week. Do it well and you’ll go to heaven. Make sure you’re using a glycerin- and aloebased shaving cream or gel like Zirh or Gillette. If you want to be particularly devout, though, sandalwood shaving cream is the only way to go. This will create a perfect firmament between your hydrated skin and blade. However, it won’t be so perfect, if you don’t have the proper equipment.

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For this religion, a brush is completely necessary, but not just any brush will do. Believe it or not, skinning a few badgers may be the key to turning your ol’ boring routine into a damn near indelible experience. Yes, badgers. Brushes made with badger hair lather up shaving cream so damn well it feels sinful. Drop the twenty-five bucks and get one. When applying your shaving cream, make sure to lather by making circular motions with your brush. This will make your hairs stand up straight, allowing them to be removed with ease. If you don’t thoroughly lather with a brush, your razor will feel more resistance then it should. When your blade has to tug on hairs to get them out, you can count on seeing all those pesky blemishes. LOW AND SLOW The most important part of this doctrine is how you shave and what you shave with. As discussed earlier, a straight blade really is the best way to go to make sure you get a close and even shave, but there is a safer way that will get you the same results. Grab a doubleedged safety razor. Look for one with an adjustable blade. These types of razors are closer to the old fashioned straight blade and allow you to dictate the

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terms of your relationship. I’d suggest using an Edwin Jagger Chatsworth model. They have a heavy handle so you don’t have to press in with your hand to get a close shave and they look nifty as well. Once you have the equipment, it’s up to you to make shaving an experience that’s worthwhile. So expect it to take a while before you become a pro. Practice moving your blade slowly across your lathered parts, with the grain. Shaving against the grain is what often causes razor burn. Going with the grain prevents your skin from getting sore and will also lead to a closer shave. To determine what direction is “with the grain,” check out your face with your hands before you start shaving. When your hand passes over some hair and glides its way through, that’s moving with the grain. If you feel like you just swiped a cactus, that’s against the grain. For a lot of guys, going north to south is typical. The neck can get a little tricky so take your time feeling yourself up. Also, use as few strokes as possible. The more often you run that blade against your skin, the more likely you will see razor burn or experience irritation. If you’ve got a Jesus-beard, a trim is in order before you start. Use an electric razor and trim

yourself down to about just a quarter of an inch, going with the grain (that right’s, the rule of tug is always true). Don’t forget to comb thoroughly first and remember to do this before you get your face wet! I sacrilegiously call these guidelines “the holy trinity,” but you will have experienced nearcomplete transcendence after following them. Once you’re done, if you want that mightierthan-thou feeling -- or just want to make sure you don’t feel any post-shave agitation -- use an aftershave balm to keep your skin hydrated and free of irritation. Remember, hydration is the gospel when it comes to shaving. Once you are done rubbing yourself, meditate in front of a mirror for five to 20 minutes. Pose and tell yourself you’re a chick magnet, then haphazardly get dressed. Sure you’re late for work, but you’re also enlightened and have the glow of a firefly. For those who can’t get the wet shave down or still experience irritation, consider making friends with a talented barber in your neighborhood. If you don’t care to have a satintextured chin then feel free to go back to the electric razor. Many men prefer it. Otherwise, it might be time to see a dermatologist. H


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