Koreana Summer 2004 (English) by The Korea Foundation

KOREAN ART

CULTURE

Vol . 18, No . 2 SUMMER 2004

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BEAUTY OF KOREA

Yangban Mask Lim Jae-hae I Professor of Korean Studies, Andong National University

Hahoe Talchum is a tra-

quiver \Xlith breath at any

ditional masked dance-

moment, causes you to

drama (talchum) that has

practically hear the yang-

been handed do\Xln over the

ban's resounding laughter.

years in the Hahoe region of

But this face does not

Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do

laugh foolishly. It also con-

province. The yangban (aris-

veys a dignity that makes

tocrat) mask of the hero of

you believe the yangban

the drama has become both an icon of traditional

might suddenly fly into a rage or bark out an order

Korean culture and a popular souvenir item for vis-

if his authority \Xlere affronted. The chin of the

itors to Korea. It is an intriguing objet d' art, per-

mask is able to move freely, \Xlhile the flo\Xling

sonifying an ideal member of the Korean ruling

curves of the facial features create a vivid three-

class.

dimensional effect. When the face is tipped back,

The face smiles so broadly that it seems about

the ja\XI falls open, emphasizing an image of hearty

to burst out in laughter, \Xlhile its high nose and

laughter, but \Xlhen the head is tilted for\Xlard, the

\Xlide nostrils suggest pride and a life of cornf01t.

mouth closes and the expression abruptly changes

The eyebro\Xls seem able to flap like the \Xlings of a

to one of anger. It is this combination of exaggerat-

seagull, \Xlhile the cheekbones are molded \Xlith

ed three-dimensional relief carving and the

flo\Xling curves and the eyes are almost hidden

dynamism of s\Xlitching bet\Xleen opposite moods

from vie\XI in narro\XI slits. The sight of the gaping

by simply tilting the face that makes the yangban

mouth, and the nose that appears as if it might

mask so ingenious and unique.

FOCUS

Dawn of High-speed Railway Era Helps to Shrink Korea I Lee Kyung-chul INTERVIEW

Ahn Suk-sun: Foremost Pansori Virtuoso of the Modern Era I Hanh Myung-hee ON THE GLOBAL STAGE

Han-na Chang: From Wunderkind to Maestro I Anna

Roh

ARTISAN

Celadon Master Lee Yong-hee: Reviving the Essence of Goryeo Ceramics I Ryu Min

ON THE ROAD

Yeongwol: Where Nature Soothes the Turbulence of History I Park Ok-Soon

publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission of the Korea Foundation. The opinions expressed by the authors do not necessarily represent those of

CUISINE

Bibimbap: High-nutrition All-in-one Meal I Koo Chun-sur

the editors of Koreana or the Korea Foundation. Koreana, registered as a quarterly magazine with the Ministry of Culture

LIVING

Korea's Declining Birthrate Crisis I Ham In-hee

and Tourism (Registration No. Ba-1033, dated Aug. 8, 1987), is also published in Chinese and Spanish.

Cover: The Hangang River, which flows through the center of Seoul, the capital of Korea, has witnessed the ebb and flow of the Korean

peninsula's history. Photo: Hwang Man-bok

Published quarterly by The Korea Foundation 1376-1 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul 137-863, Korea PUBLISHER Kwon In Hyuk EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Kim Hyeh-won EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Park Jeong-yeop ART DIRECTOR Kim Byung-ho ASSOCIATE EDITOR Park Ok-soon EDITORIAL BOARD Han Myung-hee, Han Kyung-koo, Kim Hwa-young, Kim Moon-hwan, Lee Chong-suk, Shim Jae-ryong, Yu Hong-june

32 MARKETS

'Beautiful Store' Quietly Promotes a Culture of Sharing and Recycling I Cha Jeong-sin DISCOVERING KOREA

Butterflies Embroider the Skies of Hampyeong I Park Kang-sup MASTERPIECES

King Seongdeok's Sacred Bell Resounds with the Truth I Kang U-bang ART REVIEW

Arts of Central Asia: Cultural Exchange along the Silk Road I Hur Young-hwan

--~~---~~-~-~~

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JOURNEYS IN KOREAN LITERATURE

The Scars of War and Difficulty of Overcoming Them I Seo Jun-seop

Shrapnel I T ranslated by Hyun-jae Yee Sallee

LAYOUT & DESIGN Kim's Communication Associates 118 Jangchung-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Tel: (02) 2278-0202 Fax: (02) 2278-2384 PRINTED IN SUMMER 2004 Samsung Moonwha Printing Co. 274-34, Seongsu-dong 2-ga, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

i-~--------------------------------------1Tel: (02) 468-0361/5

907), Silla came to control the entire Hangang River

to as "Ongniha" in the foundation myth of Baekje. Silla

Valley. In the waning days of Silla, the newly formed

called the upper reaches "Iha" and the lower reaches

states of Later Baekje and Taebong (later renamed

"Wangbongha." At a point about 4 kilometers south of the

Goryeo) vied with Silla for supremacy. Goryeo (918-1392)

capital, south of Mt. Mongmyeoksan (modern-day Mt.

emerged victorious , thereby unifying the peninsula.

Namsan), the river was once known as "Hansanha."

Goryeo was succeeded by the Joseon Dynasty (1392-

Goryeo writings refer to it as "Yeolsu," meaning "a long

1910), which brought Korea into the modern era. The

river with a broad riverbed of clear and bright water." It

Hangang River, as the lifeline of the capital area of Korea,

was also called "Sapyeongdo" and "Sarijin" because of its

has played an instrumental role in each era of cataclysmic

sandy streambed (sa means sand).

upheaval in Korea's history.

The name "Hangang" originates from the Korean word hangaram. The word han is similar to an ancient

One River, Many Names There are few rivers that ha\'.e been called by as many

word that meant great or sacred. During the Joseon period,

names as the Hangang. In geographical documents during

or those rivers that flowed directly into the sea. There was

the time of Wei and Jin China, the river was recorded as

one river in each of the four cardinal directions: the

"Daesu ," while a stone monument at the tomb of

Nakdonggang (east), Daedonggang (west), Yongheung-

Goguryeo's King Gwangaeto refers to it as "Arisu." In the

gang (north), and Hangang (south). Foreign documents

Samguksagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) it is referred

sometimes referred to the Hangang as the Seoul River. The

Geomyongso Spring, at the foot of Geumdaebong Peak, is the source of the 514-kilometer-long Hangang River (opposite page). Jeong Do-jeon, a prominent figure in the founding of the Joseon Dynasty, built a pavilion on an islet along the Hangang River nearby Dodamsambong (below).

sacrificial rituals were performed for the four great rivers,

From its origin at Mt. Taebaeksan, the Hangang River winds its way through the Chungcheong-do provinces, Gyeonggi-do province, and Seoul, before flowing out into the West Sea. The constantly flowing waters along its 514-kilometer length reflect the history of the Korean people, churning onward to the sea in an endless cycle. Donggungnyeojiseungnam (Augmented Survey of the

from which it starts its journey of 514 kilometers? Ancient

Geography of Korea), which was compiled during the time

documents, including geographic references in the

of King Seongjong (r. 1464-1469) of Joseon, noted the fol-

Sejongsillokjiriji (Veritable Records of King Sejong), iden-

lowing about the Hangang River:

tify the source as Utongsu Spring at Mt. Odaesan. This

"From its source at Utongsu Spring at Mt. Odaesan in

was changed in 1918 to Geomyongso Spring, at the foot of

the Gangneung area, it flows to the northwest of Chungju

Mt. Geumdaesan in Hajang-myeon, Taebaek-si Gangwon-

and joins with the Anchangsu (modern day Seomgang

do province, as the result of a survey by the interim Land

River) ...It becomes Gwangjin (modem day Gwangnaru),

Survey Office of the Japanese Government-General. A

Samjeondo and Dumopo (modern day Dumutgae) and

survey of Mt. Odaesan's Utongsu Spring and Goljicheon

then flows south past Gyeongseong (modem day Seoul) to

Stream, the uppermost segment of the Hangang River,

become Hangangdo. From there, it flows west and

revealed that Gomongnamu Spring of Goljicheon Stream

becomes Noryang and then Yongsangang and Seogang

was some 32.5 kilometers upstream.

farther west...It flows west past Gyohagun and joins with

The waters of the Hangang, which originates at

the Imjingang River and becomes the Jogang River north

Gomongnamu Spring; form Geomyongso Spring. The

of Tongjinbu, and then flows out to the sea."

information sign here reads: "As the source of the 514.4kilometer-long Hangang River, Geomyongso Spring emits

From Geomyongso Pond to Mokgye Ferry So, exactly where is the source of the Hangang River, 8

Koreana I Summer 2004

over 2,000 tons of water daily from its limestone base. The stream is 1.5 meters deep, 1.2 meters wide, and flows

Silleuksa Temple, overlooking the South Hangang River, was known as Byeokjeol during the Goryeo period (opposite page). Yeoyudang, the home of Jeong Yak-yong, a reform-minded court official of the Joseon period (above)

along the rock base for 20 to 30 meters. The water temper-

king Danjong was exiled in the 15th century, after his

ature is 9Â°C year-round, while the moss around the stream

uncle usurped the throne and later had him executed.

completes a picturesque and sublime natural scene." The

Wang Bang-yeon, a faithful comt official who had accom-

waters flow to Goljicheon Stream and then on to Auraji,

panied Danjong into exile, wrote this sad poem: "At the

the home of the "Jeongseon Arirang" song.

end of a long road, I am bereaved of my master/With no

"Auraji boatman, please take me across. The camellia flowers from Ssarigol have fallen. The fallen camellia

place to rest my heart, I sit on the river's edge/And the water, like my heart, cries as it passes in the night."

flowers are piled on the fallen leaves. Every day of the

The South Hangang River, broadened by the waters

year I miss my love so dearly." The river flows along with

of the Donggang and Seogang, arrives at Yeongchun-

the melancholy lyrics of "Jeongseon Arirang," joins with

myeon, Danyang-gun. It then passes by the Dodamsam-

Songcheon Stream, and becomes the Donggang River at

bong Islands (three rock islands along the upper segment

Jeongseon-eup, Gwangha-ri.

of the South Hangang River) and Chungju Dam, reaching

The Donggang River is said to feature the most

Tangeumdae, where stories are told of the famed Silla

exquisite landscape scenery along the Hangang River. The

writer Kim Saeng and the mastetful gayageum (traditional

waters of the Donggang churn through the Hwangsae

Korean stringed instrument) player Ureuk. During the

Rapids and past Munsan Ferry, then through Eorayeon and

Japanese Invasion of 1592, Tangeumdae was the site of the

on to Yeongwol. From there , the waters pass by

heartbreaking defeat of General Sin Rip. At the foot of Mt.

Cheongnyeongpo on the Seogang River, where the child

Daemunsan, the South Hangang River is joined by the Summer 2004 I Koreana

Currently a park, Mongchon Fortress was the representative earthen fortress from the time when Baekje founded its nation along the Hangang River valley.

Dalcheon Stream, whose water is well-known for its

(School of Practical Learning) scholar, Jeong Yak-yong,

refreshing taste. Further on, where the river widens, is

and also where he spent his final days. Also located nearby

Mokgye, once an important ferry landing and popular mar-

is the Paldang Dam, which provides water and electricity

ketplace on the Hangang River. The ferry service has since

to the residents of Seoul.

vanished without a trace, while the river flows on to

The Hangang River flows past Misa-ri beneath the

Heungho-ri, Buron-myeon, Wonju-si, where it combines

Paldang Dam, from which point the river grows broader

with the waters of the Seomgang River and flows leisurely

and deeper, passing by former landing sites such as

onward.

Gwangnaru Ferry and Samjeondo. Not far from here is Seoul's Apgujeong district, while Mt. Namsan silently

Flowing Out into the Sea

observes the river's flowing waters.

The river then leaves Chungcheongbuk-do province

" As the light of the morning sun dances on the

behind and enters Gyeonggi-do province. The South

Hangang River/I can dimly see the fishing boats between

Hangang River is called Yeogang River in the area around

the mountain peaks." These lyrics from a song by Yi

Yeoju, where Silleuksa Temple is found, which is also

Byeong-yeon describe Mt. Namsan. At the foot of this

known as Byeokjeol Temple. After passing by the former

mountain is the ltaewon district, which along with

Yanggeun Ferry in Yangpyeong, the South Hangang River

Salgojiwon, Hongjewon, and Bojewon, was one of the

meets the North Hangang River to form a single river at

four major government-run boarding and lodging facilities

Yangsu-ri. This is the birthplace of the renowned Sirhak

(won) in Seoul. Here, the river reaches Noryangjin (Heron

10 Koreana I Summer 2004

The Hangang River, as seen from Haengjusanseong Fortress where General Gwon Yul recorded his legendary victory against the invading Japanese troops in 1592 (above). Gapgot Heights was one of 53 fortifications built on Ganghwado Island during the Goryeo period (right).

Crossing Ferry), which is so-named because of the herons that used to frequent the area. Noryangjin was one of the three ferry (Jin) sites along the Hangang River in Seoul, in addition to Yanghwajin and Hangangjin. It was here that a bridge of boats would be built across the Hangang River whenever King Jeongjo visited his father's tomb. Nearby is Yeouido Island, which was a place of exile during the Goryeo period. Today, however, it is the center

Gimpo. At Goyang, the Hangang receives the waters of

of Korea's political, financial, media, and cultural sectors.

the Imjingang, which originates near Mt. Geumgangsan,

Across from Yeouido is Mapo Ferry, also called Samgae

and then at Bogugot-ri, Wolgot-myeon, Gimpo-si, its ardu-

Ferry. Grain from all around the country was transported

ous journey comes to an end at the West Sea.

by barge along the West Sea, up the Hangang River, and

"Look at the river. After so many twists and turns,

on to Mapo Ferry and Yongsan Ferry, where they were

does it not return to its source, the ocean?" As Nietzsche

stored in warehouses such as Gwangheungchang and

observed, the Hangang, like any river, does not shun any

Daeheungchang.

tributary but accepts them all, and after flowing for over

The Hangang waters, flowing unceasingly, wind past

500 kilometers it returns to the sea. The Hangang will con-

Haengjusanseong Fortress, the site of three legendary vic-

tinue to flow endless, but not without carrying along with

tories during the Japanese Invasion of 1592, and then on to

it the history and culture of the Korean people. 1...1 Summer 2004 I Koreana

n Doseongdo, a map of Seoul created in 1788, the

states and China in the fifth century, the river's strategic

Hanseong prefecture (Hanseong-bu, a former name

importance as a transport route was readily evident.

for Seoul) is surrounded by mountains, giving it the

Since the founding of the Joseon Dynasty in 1392

appearance of a landscape painting. In this map, the

through the start of the 20th century, the Hangang fulfilled

mountains and streams are the dominant features, among

an essential function as the primary transport route serving

which the palaces, houses and street networks are situated.

the capital. With the implementation of the Law of

Surprisingly, the waterway in this map that bisects the city

Uniform Land Tax (Daedongbeop) during the late Joseon

into north and south is not the Gyeonggang (today's

period, which called for the payment of taxes in-kind (typi-

Hangang), but its tributary, the Gaecheon (today's

cally rice) rather than in currency, the economic signifi-

Cheonggyecheon Stream). So what was the role of the

cance of the river became even more prominent. Above

Hangang during the time of the Hanseong prefecture?

all, the transport of goods along the river dramatically expanded. Furthermore, the traders operating along the

Gateway to the Korean Peninsula

banks of the river came to control a significant share of

When the founder of the Joseon Dynasty Yi Seong-gye

the economic activity of Hanseong-bu. Dominance of the

(dynastic name Taejo) had to decide on a site for the capital,

economic landscape was now a matter of possessing the

proximity to the Hangang was undoubtedly a key factor. In

capability and skills to capitalize on the river's utility.

a discussion of Hanseong's location recorded in the

Consequently, the development of Seoul expanded toward

Joseonwangjosillok (Annals of the Kings of Joseon), the city

the south to the northern banks of the river, while businesses

is described as a "strategic hub of the world, convenient for

around Namdaemun Gate expanded their business scale

transport thanks to the proximity of the Hangang." Although

beyond that of those operating within the city walls.

such a sizable waterway as the Hangang posed a formidable

The Hangang also functioned as a strategic entry point

barrier to overland transport, this was nonetheless offset by

for accessing the peninsula; it was the primary gateway for

its value as a conduit for water transport. In fact, from the

foreign powers that sought to penetrate Korea. During the

onset of diplomatic and trade relations between peninsular

forced opening of Korea's ports in the late 19th century, for-

The Hangang River had long served as the primary transport route for Seoul. Today, pleasure boats cruise its waters for the benefit of sightseers (left). World Cup Park includes a soccer stadium surrounded by vast recreational areas, which are popular for family outings (right). Yeouido Island, which was once a deserted sandbar, has since become the center of Korea's financial, legislative, and media sectors (opposite page).

14 Koreana I Summer 2004

The banks of the Hangang reflect the progress of Korea's economic development. In the course of this development process, the river's appearance changed dramatically with every n~w development phase. But today, with Korea's modernization having reached a mature stage, it is time to start thinking about what comes after the "Miracle on the Han." eigners ventured along either the Hangang or the

years later German and U.S. vessels also made their

Daedonggang to launch offensives against Seoul or

appearance along the river. Grain and provisions, including

Pyeongyang. Ever since the initial struggle against Western

rice, soybeans and adzuki beans, which previously had

powers in 1866, when troops from a French fleet pillaged

been shipped mainly from Incheon port, were now shipped

the fortress on Ganghwado Island in retaliation for the per-

directly from docks in Seoul, such as Yongsan, Mapo and

secution of Catholics, key conflicts were invariably fought

Seogang, to Japan and other destinations. Around this

along the Imjingang River, the entryway to the Hangang.

time, livestock from Gangwon-do and other locations

Thereafter, foreigners started to settle in Korea along

began to be exported via markets along the Hangang.

the banks of the Hangang. In this regard, French priests

After the outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War in 1894,

paved the way with the building of a seminary in 1887, in

Japanese troops commandeered the Mapo and Yongsan

an area that is now Wonhyoro 4-ga. In 1888, French

areas along the banks of the Hangang, which thereafter

steamships started operating along the Hangang, and two

became the exclusive domain of the Japanese forces. The Summer 20041 Koreana

The expressways that run along the Hangang River play a central role in maintaining the flow of Seoul's traffic.

Âˇ.

events that transformed the river into a bridgehead for the

mally adopted plans for integrating the river into the city's

entry of foreign powers stirred wide ripples, which are still

development, thus starting a process that would drastically

in evidence today. Within Seoul, populous foreign commu-

alter the river's physical characteristics and natural ecology,

nities are found thriving in the Yongsan and Itaeweon

along with making over its appearance. As a result, the

areas, which is home to the main U.S. army base as well as

Hangang has become an integral component of Seoul's

a number of foreign embassies and consulates.

urban environment. Moreover, the river has created two districts, Gangnam (south) and Gangbuk (north), which

On the Road to Urbanization

have since developed their own distinctive character.

From the middle of the 20th century, Seoul city started

After completion of the Hangang Daegyo and the

to encroach on the river. With the city's urbanization, even

Gwangjin Daegyo bridges, a third bridge, the Yanghwa

the broad waters of the river could not prevent the spread of

Daegyo, was built in 1962 that opened a new chapter in

development along both banks. In the late 1960s, Seoul for-

the river's evolution. Additional bridges were constricted,

Koreana I Summer 2004

while the river's embankments were reinforced, upon

ing Korea 's phenomenal economic expansion and the

which new roadways were built. In the late 1960s, plans

urban development of Seoul came to be known as the

called for further transformation of the Hangang. As the

"Miracle on the Han." The development of the riverbanks

resident population of Seoul ballooned, the Hangang was

forever altered the appearance of the entire city, while the

integrated into the city's residential development plans

Han River Comprehensive Development Plan curtailed the

under the "Han River Maintenance Project." Under this

flooding of the river. Fortunately, the banks of the river

initiative, from 1967 to 1970 nearly all the river's embank-

also offered an economical means of providing park areas

ments were built up or reconstructed to accommodate

and walking paths, which otherwise were frequently

riverside roadways. The riverbanks were no longer a place

ignored during the breakneck pace of Seoul's urban devel-

where people could approach the river, but rather an

opment.

embankment system designed for flood-protection, above which endless streams of traffic clogged the expressways.

However, new tasks that are just as important as the rapid development of the past now have to be dealt with

After construction of the riverside roadways, never-

forthrightly. Nowadays, autos seem to take up every cen-

ending rows of high-rise apartment complexes started to

timeter along the riverside. And, both the riverbed and its

wall off the river. In this process, massive reclamation

banks have Âˇbeen artificially straightened. Moreover, the

projects were undertaken all along the river. Dongbuichon-

fact that both sides of the Hangang are practically covered

dong was built up and developed into the Hangang apart-

with asphalt and concrete poses a serious problem as well.

ment complex, while to the south, the Apgujeong area was

Now that the river's original ecosystem is practically non-

reclaimed, which became home to the Hyundai apartment

existent, it has lost its regenerative capacity to sustain

complex. The reclamation of the Banpo and Jamsil areas

aquatic life.

l l

proceeded in tandem, with the former becoming a large-

Another problem area involves the high-rise apart-

scale apartment district, and the latter a residential neigh-

ments along the riverbanks. "A view on the river," or the

borhood alongside embankment roads.

so-called access to a Hangang River view, has since

Yeoeuido, which was once nothing but a sandbank

become a privilege that is available only to a select few.

extending out to the middle of the Hangang, was surround-

As such, the development of these apartments can be

ed with dikes and gradually turned into an island, whereas

regarded as a kind of privatization of a public resource-

Bamseom Island, which used to be seen near the white

scenic views of the Hangang- that should be available to

beach at Seogang, is now almost completely submerged.

all Seoulites. About the only thing that you can see when

The Jamsil reclamation project was part of the plans to

taking a pleasure boat cruise along the river are the cars

relocate urban dwellers of north of the river to south of the

racing along the embankments and standardized high-rise

river. Some 26.4 square kilometers of land in Yeongdong

apartments that enclose the river like a giant folding

was combined with 13 .2 square kilometers of land in

screen. Adopting the modem-day paradigm of rapid eco-

Jamsil to form a huge residential district. Thereafter, with-

nomic growth, the river continues to flow, but no longer

in a period of only some 20 years, the population south of

breathing with natural life.

the Hangang started to overtake the population to the

The breathless pace of the Korean economy's devel-

north. But the development of the river did not end there.

opment in the latter decades of the 20th century is well

The river underwent another makeover under the "Han

reflected in the numerous transformations of the river and

River Comprehensive Development Plan," a mammoth

its embankments. Korea is now standing at a crossroads, in

public works project initiated in 1982.

which it must cross over the threshold to a more mature phase of development. During this transition, new hard-

Beyond the 'Miracle on the Han' The successive business ventures that flourished dur-

ships will have to be endured. Nevertheless, as always, Koreans will relish taking on this challenge. 1....11 Summer 2004 1Koreana

What kinds of flora and fauna can be found in and around the Hangang River, which cuts across the central area of the Korean peninsula? Take an ecology tour of the Hangang to discover the diverse animal and plant life that make the river their home. Kim Jae-ii I President, Doore Ecology Tours Yeom Ki-won, Joen Bu-soon I Photographers

he Hangang River originates in the eastern

are found in the upstream areas around Yeongwol and

region of the Korean peninsula and then flows

Danyang. The annual precipitation of the river basin

westward, eventually reaching the West Sea.

amounts to 1,289 millimeters, above the nationwide aver-

The distance from the river's source at Mt.

age. Due to the substantial volume of its water flow, the

Taebaeksan in Gangwon-do province to its mouth at Yudo

Hangang River basin encompasses an area of 26,219 square

in Gimpo, Gyeonggi-do province, covers some 514.4 kilo-

kilometers, while creating expansive plains around Yeoju

meters. The two major branches of the river, the

and Gimpo. As such, from the outset, the river basin has

Namhangang and the Bukhangang, come together at

served as an ideal site for growing crops, especially rice.

Yangsu-ri, Gyeonggi-do province, and then pass through

As the river flows downstream, its riverbed gradually

Seoul and continue on to the West Sea. Broad tidal flats

broadens and its waters flow more slowly. Because of the

can be found at the mouth of the Hangang, where the river

slower flow, the sand and silt carried along by the water

meets the sea, along the DMZ (demilitarized zone) that

from upstream areas are deposited onto the riverbed,

divides South and North Korea.

where it accumulates. Over time, this process has created

Aquatic Habitat

Yeoido, and Bamseom, as well as a number of uninhabited

several islands along the river, including Namiseom, The middle and upstream segments of the Hangang are

islets.

bordered by high mountainous regions, while along the

The Hangang has long been a habitat for aquatic ecol-

downstream areas there are low-lying hills. Limestone caves

ogy. As with most rivers, the Hangang serves as an inter-

Koreana I Summer 2004

Insects that had been disappearing from the areas along the Hangang River, due to excessive use of agrochemicals, have been mounting a comeback in recent times (opposite page). Hanabusaya asiatica thrives in the mountainous regions along the upper reaches of the Hangang River (above).

section where aquatic ecology comes into contact with

Sobaeksan, and Songnisan. These mountains are for the

land-based ecology, making it especially environmentally

most part blanketed with coniferous trees (mainly pines)

sensitive. However, in the process of Korea's moderniza-

and broadleaf trees (such as oak). In the upstream areas,

tion and urbanization, the environment for animal and

there are still a number of virgin forest areas, but in the

plant life in downstream areas has experienced serious dis-

downstream areas, where extensive development has been

ruption and deterioration. Accordingly, since 1987, the

undertaken, there are various foreign species, such as false

government has been conducting regular studies of the

acacia or locust tree (Robinia pseudoacacia), pitch pine

Hangang ecology to develop measures for its remediation

(Pinus rigida), and poplar or cottonwood (Populus deltoids

and restoration.

Marshall). In the upstream forest areas, sub-alpine herbs, such as

Trees and Plants

Diamond bluebell Campanulaceae (Hanabusaya asiatica

The Hangang River basin lies at the foot of several

Nakai), can be found growing in the wild. Along the

well-known mountains, including Seoraksan, Taebaeksan,

river's downstream segments, among the sedimentary Summer 2004 I Koreana 19

The natural ecology of the Hangang River has suffered extensive damage in the process of Korea's modernization. But with the recent creation of ecology preservation parks, a growing number of species that had abandoned the riverside areas are now able to return to their former habitat.

The Hangang River is home to some 20 indigenous fish species, including the golden mandarin fish, which has been designated a natural monument; the spotted barbell; the Korean splendid dace; the Kumgang fat minnow; and dolsangeo (Gobiobotia brevibarba Mori), all of which are unique to Korea. Yeouido Ecological Park (opposite page below)

deposit accumulations and tidal flats, as well as the broad

eign countries, the number of alien insect species now

waterside areas, there are groves of wetland plant species,

found in Korea has been on the rise. Consequently, efforts

including reeds (Phragmites australis Trinius), silver ban-

are being made to revive the native insect ecology through

ner grass (Miscanthus sacchariflorus), and rose-gold pussy

the establishment of ecology preservation parks in river-

willow (Salix gracilistyla Miquel). Various kinds of water

side areas along Seoul, which has contributed to a dou-

plants, such as water chestnut (Trapa japonica Flerov.) and

bling of the number of insect species since 1990.

floating moss (Salvinia natans), can be found in down-

The Hangang has for long proved invaluable as a

stream areas where the waters flow by gently. There are

source of fresh water. Dams have been built mostly at the

also plants introduced from abroad and naturalized species,

river's midstream and downstream segments, while large

including Japanese hop (Humulus japonicus Sieb.et Zucc.),

cities and smaller communities have been developed along

horseweed (Erigeron Canadensis L.), and aromatic

downstream areas. Paldang Dam, in the downstream area,

evening primrose (Oenothera odorata), which grow in

supplies potable water for the 20 million residents of Seoul

abundance in downstream waterside areas.

and the surrounding metropolitan areas. The water quality of the Hangang, which steadily

Fish and Insects

deteriorates as it flows downstream, determines the species

Because the Hangang is located in the central region

of fish . that survive in its waters. Throughout the entire

of the peninsula, a wide diversity of insects can be found,

length of the river some 50 species of fish can be found, of

from the cold north and the warmer south. A 1988 field

which 20 are unique to Korea, including eoreumchi

survey identified about 215 species of insects in the down-

(Hemibarbus mylodon Berg), swiri (Coreoleuciscus splen-

stream areas west of Seoul. But because of excessive agro-

didus Mori), Kumgang fat minnow (Phoxinus kumgangen-

chemical usage and the consequences of urbanization and

sis Uchida), and dolsangeo (Gobiobotia brevibarba Mori).

industrialization, the insect populations and number of

The Manchurian trout (Branchymystax lenok), which

species in downstream areas have been steadily declining.

can be seen in the upstream reaches of the Hangang

In addition, as a result of increasing interaction with for-

around Odaesan valley, are thought to be living at the Summer 2004 I Koreana

southernmost latitude for this species. In the far down-

dents and nature enthusiasts observe the birds there through

stream areas where the river flows into the West Sea, the

binoculars, while once or twice a year people are allowed

brackish waters are home to such fish as fugu puffer (Fugu

to visit the island to feed the birds. In recent times, thanks

ocellatus Osbech), sea perch (Lateolabrax japonicus), so-

to the government's environment-friendly policy initiatives

iny mullet (Mugil haematocheila Temminck et Schlegel) ,

and the active involvement of community groups, ever

Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica), and Japanese grenadier

more birds are seen spending the winter at Hangang river-

anchovy (Coilia nasus Temrninck and Schlegel).

side areas and adjoining streams around Seoul.

During Korea's modernization process, various for-

As recently as 50 or so years ago, tigers were known

eign fish species were introduced , such as bass

to live in the remote forest areas of the upstream reaches of

(Mi c ropterus salmoides) and blue gill (Lepomi s

the Hangang. However, it seems these tigers have since

macrochirus Rafinesque). These fi sh tended to settle in

vanished due to the Korean War (1950-1953) and the

downstream areas where the waters flow leisurely by and

country's subsequent modernization. But other animals,

around dams. Five species of freshwater clams, along with

such as antelopes, boars, roe deer, wildcats, and otters,

shrimp and crayfish, can also be found in the waters of the

continue to live there, as always, while the downstream

Han gang.

mountainous areas are home to a variety of herbivores, including rabbits and elk. At Seoul waterside areas where

Birds and Wild Animals The birds that congregate along the Hangang can be classified as resident birds, which remain there year-round,

access is prohibited and along the military demarcation line, established after the Korean War, elk and raccoons can be seen frolicking openly in broad daylight.

and migratory birds that stop over in the winter or summer. These include 22 species of resident birds, such as mag-

Restoring the Natural Ecology

pies; 17 species of summer migratory birds, such as the

Over the years, the cumulative impact of extensive

common kingfisher (Alc edo atthis Linnaeus); and 48

urban development along downstream areas has seriously

species of winter birds, including geese. In particular, the

damaged the natural ecology of the Hangang River. To

area of the river's mouth at the DMZ is a renowned winter

restore this ecology, the government has designated several

habitat for several rare birds, such as the black-faced

ecology preservation areas, where public access is prohib-

spoonbill (Platatea minor Temrninck Schlengel).

ited. As a result, some 25 species of birds, fish and insects

Bamseom, an islet situated in the middle of the river's

now reside on Bamseom islet, permanently or during win-

segment along Seoul, is a conservation area that has

ter, while in the wetland areas of Dunchon-dong, practical-

become a haven for migratory birds. In wintertime, stu-

ly next door to an apartment complex, 27 species of wet-

22 Koreana I Summer 2004

The Hangang River serves as a popular refuge for a wide diversity of migratory birds. The DMZ buffer along the mouth of the Hangang River, which is off-limits to the public, is a well-known winter resting grounds for rare birds, such as the black:faced spoonbill and the white-naped crane. This area is also home to deer and raccoon.

land plants are thriving, a rare sight in urban residential

have since returned, along with thriving communities of

districts.

ducks and raccoons.

Following the Yeouido Ecology Park, which was

In addition, Nanjido, which for the past 15 years was

opened in 1997, additional ecology-related parks have

used as a garbage landfill area and thus despised by neigh-

been developed alongside the river in an effort to restore

borhood residents, has been transformed into a public golf

the waterside environment. These include Gil-dong

course and ecology theme park. Nanjido Ecology Park,

Ecology Park, Gangseo Wetland Ecology Park, and

adjacent to the Sangam-dong World Cup Stadium, serves

Godeok-dong Ecology Park. Moreover, the small streams

as a habitat for all sorts of birds, plants and insects. In con-

in the city that residents never went near because of their

trast to its previous neglect and disdain, Nanjido is now a

foul odor and filthy waters are gradually regaining their

hands-on ecology classroom for students as well as a wel-

natural condition. After much neglect, Yangjaecheon has

come place of rest and recreation for the residents of

been restored to a naturally flowing stream and ecological

Seoul.

haven where the fish and insects that had once disappeared Summer 2004 I Koreana

The Hangang River serves as a barometer of life of Seoulites. Flowing inextricably throughout the ages, the river is the lifeline of the city as well as a center of urban life and source of diversion from the everyday routine. Choi Tae-won I Freelance Writer Seo Heun-kang I Photographer

Koreana I Summer 2004

s revealed in the earthenware artifacts excavated from the prehistoric settlement areas situated at Amsa-dong, Gangdong-gu, the Hangang River Valley has for long been

home for people on the Korean peninsula. Ancient civi-

lizations have invariably originated along rivers, which was true of Korea as well. The Hangang River, which flows through the center of the capital city of Seoul, has been like a mother's amniotic fluid to the Korean people. Though countless people who were born and lived their lives along the river may since have passed into the annals of history, the river 's waters continue to chum endless, recycling the dreams and despair of those past and present.

The expansive Hangang River offers a wealth of recreational opportunities, including paragliding and windsurfing, as well as water-skiing and jet-skiing.

From Ferry Landings to Bridges When the Joseon Dynasty ( 1392-1910) selected Hanyang (modem-day Seoul) as its capital, the Hangang River was no doubt a key consideration. Residents drew their water from the river, which served as a ready conduit for the transport of people and commodities as well. The river was constantly bustling with people and activity, naturally becoming a center of everyday life and commerce from early on. As a community focal point, the river's significance has remained relatively constant, but its surrounding scenery is another story entirely. Vendors lugging bundles on their backs have been replaced by businessmen toting briefcases and notebook computers, while the landings that received ferry .boats have become massive bridges that accommodate endless flows of traffic. The French poet Guillaume Apollinaire wrote of the elegant beauty of the Pont Mirabeau over the River Seine, while the poets and painters of Korea have lauded the bridges across the Hangang, including Cheonhodaegyo, Jamsildaegyo, Yeongdongdaegyo, Donghodaegyo, Seongsudaegyo, and Hannamdaegyo. These bridges, which have their own character:, create an attractive urban scene when illuminated at night. Cafes that offer panoramic views of the river and bridges are especially popular. In particular, the sight of the river's gently flowing waters can do wonders for recovering from a hectic workday or washing away one's fatigue or worries. In fact, residenti al apartments along the Summer 2004 I Koreana

Yeouido, often referred to as the "Manhattan of Seoul," is a modern-day symbol of the Hangang River. What was long a forsaken island of sand has evolved into the center of Korea's political, financial, and media sectors.

Hangang River are always highly sought-after, such that

dong (Gangnam-gu), Banpo-dong (Seocho-gu), Heukseok-

they are typically sold at premium prices.

dong (Dongjak-gu), Jamsil-dong (Songpa-gu), Ichon-dong (Yongsan-gu), and Gwangjang-dong (Gwangjin-gu).

Yeouido: Seoul's Manhattan

The apartment units along the river are far more

Apartment complexes, which began to mushroom in

expensive than comparable developments in other areas.

the 1970s, have in large part become the standard form of

This is thanks to their convenient location, but more

residence in Korea. As such, the areas along the Hangang

importantly because they offer a view of the river. When

River are of course overflowing with high-rise apartment

developers advertise the sale of such apartment projects,

buildings. These apartments first began to appear along the

the point that they emphasize most is a "view of the

river in 1973, with the construction of apartment projects

Hangang River." Even within a particular apartment com-

on Yeouido and along the southern banks. Residential dis-

plex, prices can vary by tens of millions of won (tens of

tricts with excellent views of the river include Apgujeong-

thousands of dollars) depending on the quality of its view

26 Koreana I Summer 2004

Bamseom Island, a paradise for migratory birds, is situated below Seogangdaegyo Bridge (opposite page). With the recent improvement in the Hangang River's water quality, the number of those who enjoy fishing in the river has been on the rise (above).

of the river, confirming the intrinsic value of this feature.

a desolate site, which served as a plane runway and pasture

Yeouido was for long an abandoned island of sand,

land until only a few decades ago, would become the cen-

but since development began there in 1968 it has been

ter of Korean politics and TV broadcasting as well as the

rapidly transformed into a modern-day symbol of the

"Wall Street of Korea."

Hangang River. Yeouido is now home to the National Assembly Building, the KBS (Korea Broadcasting System), MBC (Munhwa Broadcasting Company), and

Escape from the Everyday Routine In addition to being a magnet for residential develop-

SBS (Seoul Broadcasting System) TV broadcasters, news-

ment, the Hangang River is also popular for those needing

paper publishers, and securities firms, making it the center

an escape from the ordinary. On holidays, families on out-

of Korea's political, media, and financial activities.

ings flock to the parks along the embankments, while

Accordingly, Yeouido has come to be known as the

lovers enjoy quiet walks along the river's edge. Diverse

"Manhattan of Seoul." Few could have imagined that such

festivals are staged here year-round, including spectacular Summer 2004 I Koreana

The river's steep banks make access to certain recreational areas somewhat difficult but not enough to deter those in pursuit of a good time (opposite page}. The pathways along the Hangang River are ideal for joggers and marathon enthusiasts (right}.

fireworks displays, making the Hangang a sought-out destination among foreigners as well. The Hangang Riverside Park includes eight areas: Jamsil and Gwangnaru, Ttukseom, Jamwon and Banpo, Ichon, Yeouido, Seonyudo and Yanghwa, Nanji and Mangwon, and Gangseo. Pleasure boat ferries operate between Yeouido and Ttukseom, and Yeouido and Jamsil, offering memorable views of the Seoul cityscape. A trip on a pleasure boat is one of the delightful ways for sightseers to view the river's magnificent scenery. While leisurely cruising along the river you can enjoy the sunlight sparkling on the water during the day and the marvelous city lights at night. Those seeking a more thrilling experience can speed along the river in a motorboat, leaving a spray of water in their wake. The pleasure boats can be boarded at Jamsil, Yeouido, Yanghwa, and Nanji, where

a 38.3-kilometer-long path from Gwangnaru in Amsa-

six ferry routes are available. At each of the ferry landings

dong, Gangdong-gu to Yanghwa in Gaehwa-dong,

there is a floating restaurant, enabling patrons to take in the

Gangseo-gu, as well as a 23.2-kilometer-long path from

scenery and atmosphere of the Hangang River.

Ddukseom in Jayang-dong, Gwangjin-gu to Nanji in Mangwon-dong, Mapo-gu. Vehicles are not allowed on

Source of Leisure for Residents The Hangang is a source of leisure and recreation for residents and visitors. During summer, outdoor swimming

these pathways, so cyclists can appreciate the scenery

pools provide welcome relief from the heat, spring and fall

seen striding vigorously along these paths. Moreover,

are ideal for roller-skating and bicycling, and ice-skating

young people on in-line skates swoop about, suddenly

and ice fishing are enjoyed in wintertime. Fishing is

popping out of nowhere, such that the Hangang is con-

allowed practically everywhere except for the restricted

stantly brimming with vitality.

without being concerned about traffic. Nowadays, with walking being all the rage, speed walkers are increasingly

areas of Gwangnaru and Seonyudo Park, while reed fields

The World Cup Park, built to commemorate the 2002

and grassy areas have been created along popular fishing

World Cup, is an ecological theme park featuring wetland

sites so that anglers can have a more pleasurable experi-

areas, fields of flowers, ponds, boating waterways, and a

ence. In particular, a 2-kilometer stretch in Yanghwa from

marathon course. There is also a nine-hole golf course.

Dangsancheolgyo Bridge to the Yanghwa Ferry Landing is

With such a diverse variety of parks and recreational facili-

a favorite among anglers, where large-size fish are often

ties, the Hangang offers a pleasurable experience to all

caught.

who come by. The river may be an ordinary place of resi-

There are also paved pathways for bicycling where you can ride along the river, enjoying its refreshing breeze:

dence for many, but it is indeed an extraordinary source of revitalization and respite for many more.

Summer 2004 I Koreana 31

------

FOCUS

------

Bullet train service is expected to bring about far-reaching changes to Korea's economy, society and culture.

orea's new high-speed railway service has

the other hand, passenger demand for high-quality train

provided renewed impetus to a rail industry

services has been on the increase. In addition, the invest-

that had been suffering from a protracted

ment priority in favor of roadways has failed to alleviate

decline in the face of the country's continu-

traffic congestion, which contributes to substantial eco-

ous motorization. Indeed, in light of recent advances in

nomic losses and exacerbation of air pollution. It was

transportation and ever-increasing communication speeds,

against this backdrop that Korea launched its ambitious

a high-speed railway has become a means of transport

high-speed railway project.

commensurate with today 's modern lifestyle. When you

It is expected that the new railway services will pro-

look at Japan, France, Germany and Spain, countries that

vide a big boost to the advancement of Korea's rail indus-

already operate high-speed rail networks and continue to

try. Because it can operate at a maximum speed nearly dou-

build new lines, it becomes evident that Korea's bid to join

ble that of conventional trains, the bullet train services will

their ranks is timely.

not only attract existing rail passengers, but also those who previously relied on other modes of transport. The benefits

Turning Point for Rail Industry Development The majority of Korea's railroad system was built

of the reduced travel time will of course be most apparent

before the middle of the 20th century. Although new lines

when integrated with the existing rail network, the high-

have since been added, they amount to little compared to

speed railway will create spillover effects that spread across

the original network. The reason for this is that during the

the entire country. As such, it is expected that existing lines

process of Korea's economic development the govern-

will be upgraded as part of this process, with the availabili-

ment's transportation policy was focused on the expansion

ty of high-speed services proving to be a golden opportuni-

of roadways rather than railroads. As a result, the market

ty for accelerating development of the rail industry.

in the new Seoul-Busan and Seoul-Mokpo segments, but

share of railroads, in terms of passenger and commodity

Especially in regard to segments that require two to

transport, has suffered from a steady decline ever since. On

three hours of travel time, the bullet trains will be competi-

Express train engineers and attendants, who endured a fiercely competitive selection process, are eager to ensure that passengers enjoy a safe and pleasant trip (above). The inaugural express train departs from Busan for Seoul on the morning of April 1, 2004 (opposite page).

34 Koreana I Summer 2004

tive with autos and commercial flights. For the two-hour

term, as each means of transport seeks to highlight its par-

journey between Paris and Lyon, France's TGV SUD-EST

ticular strengths, the country's transp01tation system will

has captured a 90 percent market share among business

undergo a major restructuring process.

travelers. This is explained by the fact that train fares compare favorably with airfares, while the travel time is roughly equivalent. In Korea too, airline services for the Seoul-

Increased Mobility In general, as a country's economic scale and trans-

Busan and Seoul-Daegu routes will have to be realigned as

portation services reach an advanced state, the mobility of

a result of new competition from the bullet train.

people will increase correspondingly. In Korean society,

Moreover, in response to the entry of high-speed trains in

which is moving steadily toward a five-day workweek, the

the transportation sector, the competition between various

high-speed railway will have a tangible impact in terms of

modes of transport and the ways they complement each

noticeably increasing people's mobility. As the bullet train

other will be subject to extensive adjustment. In the long

services become faster and more frequent, the level of

Summer 2004 I Koreana

quality will likewise be enhanced, thus encouraging more

benefits, such that the bullet train services can serve as a

people to travel by train.

cornerstone for further regional development.

After bullet trains were launched in Japan and France,

The number of passengers taking the bullet train to

the high-speed services appealed to not only business com-

commute to work or to school will steadily increase, as the

muters, but leisure travelers and people visiting friends and

faster connections help to break down the barriers of dis-

relatives as well. In response to shortened travel times, the

tance that separate smaller cities and local communities

following changes can be observed: psychological resis-

from the major urban centers. Hereafter, it will be notably

tance to distances diminishes, and more time can be spent

more convenient for people to reside in more desirable

at destinations. It is thus hardly surprising that local

provincial areas, away from the big city congestion, thanks

authorities and the tourism sector are busily discussing the

to the reduced commuting time.

development of tourism products linked to the high-speed

In the case of Japan, enlargement of the commuting

railway as well as related ways to fully capitalize on its

radius following the introduction of high-speed rail ser-

The new KTX station building adjoining the existing Seoul Station (above and opposite page)

Koreana I Summer 2004

vices was especially evident. On the other hand, a similar trend was not seen in France. This difference was attributed to a policy decision by the TGV management to place priority on connections between Paris and other major cities that involved two-hour or more travel time rather than services for commuters within a one-hour or so commuting radius. The case of France demonstrates that the increase in commuting distances upon the opening of highspeed links is a result of not only social conditions, but can also be influenced by the policy directions adopted by the train system authorities. Bringing Change to Urban Living Expectations that a high-speed railway could con-

to disperse activity to regional areas and thereby weaken

tribute to more balanced national development was one of

the functionality of the capital through intensified competi-

the key factors behind the justification of this mammoth

tion between cities. It is thus projected that operation of the

undertaking. The reduction in travel time will not only

bullet trains will not necessarily result in a relocation of the

benefit individuals but dramatically impact businesses as

functions concentrated in the capital to the outlying

well. Since companies will now have the flexibility to relo-

provinces.

cate from Seoul, where land prices and rental rates are the

Even so, an anticipated boost to development around

highest, to outlying provinces, they stand to realize consid-

cities with a train station on the high-speed rail lines did

erable cost-savings. Moreover, if they relocate to industrial

come about in Japan and France. If policy initiatives aimed

areas nearby railway stations, the time needed to get to and

at complementing the high-speed railway's potential are

from the capital will not differ much from that for firms

carried out, the outcomes will include a social transfonna-

situated in the Seoul area. Such desired outcomes were

tion and demographic trends toward the promotion of a

extensively debated in Japan and France as well. Like

more attractive residential environment.

Korea, these countries also suffered from the social and

As such, the experiences of France and Japan offer

economic problems created by over-centralization of their

valuable lessons for Korea's situation. In order to achieve a

capital areas.

transformation of the urban living stmcture as a result of

However, as it turned out, very few public organiza-

the high-speed railway system, its potential will have to be

tions or businesses actually relocated from the capital area

optimized through the adoption of effective policy mea-

to provincial areas around train stations. Therefore, many

sures. In this regard, the government will need to establish

observers have contended that the high-speed railway sys-

a feasible master plan based on a thorough understanding

tem is primarily a mode of transport, and not an effective

of the railway system's capabilities and detailed analyses

means of promoting more balanced regional development.

of regional conditions, and then follow through with its

Meanwhile, others question whether it really makes sense

steadfast implementation.

Summer 2004 I Koreana

INTERVIEW

There may be a number of accomplished pansori singers, but there is only a handful whose singing can strike a resonant chord deep within their audiences. Among these, Ahn Suksun stands out as the foremost pansori virtuoso of the modern era, who combines incomparable vocal talent with a boundless strength of soul. Hanh Myung-hee I Director, lmisi Academy for Korean Music Culture Ahn Hong-beum I Photographer

Ahn

Suk-sun Foremost Pansori Virtuoso of the Modern Era

hn Suk-sun is indis-

or simply, intensity. It could also be

putably the foremost

thought of as a perseverance that out-

pansori virtuoso of our

lasts all others. It can be called effort,

time and a masterful

or the mindset of a professional.

performer. This is not because of her

Most singers, however, cannot over-

widespread popularity. Nor is it

come the barrier of this spiritual

because she is a darling of the local

realm, because it is impossible to do

media. By no means is it because of

so without extreme self-sacrifice and

her immeasurable success and the

self-motivation.

numerous awards and citations that

For this reason, try as they may,

she has received both at home and

the vast majority of singers will

abroad. As everyone knows, to be

advance no further than a level of

recognized as an extraordinary per-

performers with technical skills.

former in Korea it is not enough to

Within Korea's traditional cultural

merely sing beautifully; such an indi-

scene, there seems to be a number of

vidual must have the ability to project

well-kpown pansori singers, but it is

their innermost spiritual realm

difficult to find truly great perform-

through the music and deeply move

ers. And among these rare virtuoso

the audience. Only then can one be

singers, the supreme performer is

acknowledged as a masterful vocalist

without a doubt Ahn Suk-sun, who

worthy of critical acclaim.

combines incomparable vocal talent

This "innermost spiritual realm"

38 Koreana I Summer 2004

with a boundless strength of soul.

can be referred to as an artistic esprit,

On a pleasant day, as gentle

a total immersion in one's endeavor,

breezes play a prelude to spring, I

visited An at her office at the

family experienced similar hardship.

National Theater of Korea, where she

Her father died early, her grandmoth-

serves as director of the National

er was bed-ridden with paralysis, and

Changgeuk Company. Unlike her

her mother was left to raise five chil-

usual taciturn demeanor, Ahn was

dren and manage the household on

. placid as she spoke frankly with me

her own. Even her older brother was

about the path she has trod along. "I remember the days of my youth, in my hometown of Namwon.

forced to wander the streets as a confectionary peddler, so there was no time for her to enjoy herself.

I used to think of the pond at

Fortunately, she apparently inher-

Gwanghanru Pavilion as the Indangsu

ited musical talent-one of her rela-

Sea, into which the filial daughter

tives was a well-known gayageum

Simcheong threw herself. If someone

(12-string zither) player, another was a

opportunity that no amount of money

had only offered me some rice, I

pansori master, and there were others

could buy."

think I could have sacrificed myself

who were involved with Korean

Ahn was absolutely right; it

just like Simcheong did. That's how

music. She naturally pursued a path of

would be no exaggeration to say that

poor we were."

Korean music and joined the

the key to her success was deeply

In truth, during the times of

Chunhyang Women's Art Troupe,

rooted in these experiences. And this

Korea's agriculture-based economy,

traveling around the country and

is also the source of a glaring defi-

poverty was so prevalent that almost

learning about the demanding enter-

ciency of pansori singers and tradi-

everyone made do with a hand-to-

tainment industry from a young age.

tional musicians nurtured under

mouth existence. This included the

''I was not at the age when I

today's systematized educational pro-

"barley hump," the most difficult

could truly appreciate Korean music.

grams, such as those at various uni-

period of the year around April and

I was dragged along against my will

versities. Although they may possess

May, after the rice supply was deplet-

to perform in concerts, and it was not

exceptional ability and musical tal-

ed and before the barley harvest,

a very enjoyable experience. I

ent, the musicians of the new genera-

when families were forced to get by

thought of it as an exhausting way of

tion seem to be somewhat lacking in

on grass, roots, and tree bark. It

life. But when I look back, I think

their on-stage performance. For the

would not be surprising that Ahn's

that perhaps it was an experience and

most part, this is because they have

If the singing of new-generation performers is like the flowers cultivated in a greenhouse, then the singing of Ahn Suk-sun is like the hardy wildflowers that must weather much hardship just to survive.

40 Koreana I Summer 2004

not personally experienced the world from which pansori originated. Accordingly, they can merely offer an accurate rendition of the notes on their sheet music, but they cannot read between the lines and convey the true sentiments of an age long gone by. Therein lies the difference with Ahn. Though she will sing the same

lyrics, in her music dwells a tenacious real-life struggle that is capable of transcending mere sound. This inner realm reflects the joys and sorrows of the wandering performers, and the pungency of the forthright and difficult everyday life of the common people. Quite simply, the singing of the new-generation performers is like the flowers that have been cultivated in a greenhouse, while Ahn's singing is like the hardy wildflowers that must weather much hardship just to survive. As I enjoyed the fragrance of a cup of green tea, the sorrowful strains of Sarasate's Zigeunerweisen (Gypsy Melodies) suddenly flowed through

my mind. Just as the wanderlust The struggles of Ahn Suk-sun's real-life experiences are reflected in the unique vibrancy of her pansori performances.

Summer 2004 I Koreana

bands of gypsies have left their mark

mental. Sassy contrasts with her other

led the world of folk music in Korea

on aspects of European culture, itin-

nickname, Little Caterpillar. A cater-

during the latter half of the 20th cen-

erant performing groups have played

pillar clings to the underside of

tury. Bak was a highly acclaimed

an instrumental role in shaping

leaves and will startle people. It is a Âˇ

gayageum player and singer, while

Korean folk culture as well. This was

nickname that suggests Ahn's intelli-

Kim dominated the world of pansori.

true of the sadangpae performing

gence and upright character.

Ahn noted: "I learned musical skills

groups, who earned their livelihood

The two nicknames are not unre-

from them, but more than the skills I

by entertaining the common people,

lated to her music career. If she did

learned about the human virtues and

as well as the changgeuk troupes of

not have an impertinent, yet sensitive

professional mindset that an artist

the early 20th century, who played a

nature, she would not have been able

must have." That is so true. For Ahn,

definitive role in keeping alive the

to deeply move her audiences with

her performances overflow with the

pulse of traditional music genres,

the ups and downs of her life experi-

undaunted spirit of a master artisan.

such as pansori. Ahn spent her for-

ences, which are the foundation of

Though her music is sublimated

mative years dreaming of becoming a

her distinctive style. And, if she did

to a peak of refinement, she has not

famous singer while being immersed

not have the tenacious survival

lost the admiration and respect of her

in the daily life of these roaming per-

instinct of the caterpillar, she would

audiences. Ahn also stresses that she

formers.

have been swept under by the waves

has devoted herself to the all-con-

of adversity long before becoming

suming task of committing her entire

the towering figure that she is today.

life to her music.

I then asked Ahn what her nickname had been when she was a child. "The grownups would call me

"Having spent my youth on the

These are by no means empty

'Sassy' or 'Little Caterpillar.' They

stage, I wandered much spiritually. I

words. People who know about her

called me 'Sassy' because I was

was able to overcome this period of

life a.nd have enjoyed her perfor-

impertinent and always joking

wandering and doubt thanks to two

mances would heartily agree. She has

around."

of my beloved teachers: Bak Gwi-hui

not been spoiled by the public accla-

(1921-1993) and Kim So-hui (1917-

mation over the years, nor does she

1995)."

tailor her singing to perceptions of

Ahn projects an image of a per-

son of considerable intelligence with a sense of detachment. But contrary

Many Koreans might recall that

what today's audiences might prefer.

to this impression, on the inside she

Bak Gwi-hui and Kim Soh-ui were

Like her youthful nickname, Little

is surprisingly personable and senti-

two popular female performers who

Caterpillar, she coldly rejects any-

42 Koreana I Summer 2004

thing outside her music, while being

thing like a Western opera, except

ning to the end. It is this very perse-

fully immersed in her musical pur-

that a single performer takes on all

verance and endurance, this archetyp-

suits and tenaciously advancing

the various singing and acting roles.

al characteristic that lies beneath all

toward the professional goals she has

A pansori performance can mn from

of Korea's traditional culture, which

set for herself.

four hours, for shorter pieces, to over

is at the core of Ahn Suk-sun's

Pansori is a Korean musical

eight hours for longer works, such as

singing. A cluster of wildflowers on

form presented by a single performer,

The Tale of Chunhyang. However,

the canvas of this uncompromising

who acts, narrates the story (aniri) ,

even for an eight-hour pansori perfor-

professional mindset that sassily

and sings, to the accompaniment of a

mance, there is no intermission or

depicts the simple sentiments of the

single dmmmer. The stories are taken

break for the solo singer, who per-

Korean people-this is the essence of

from classic Korean tales. It is some-

forms continuously from the begin-

Ahn Suk-sun's virtuosity. ~

Already recognized as Korea's foremost pansori virtuoso, Ahn Suk-sun is now opening up new horizons in traditional Korean performing arts.

Summer 2004 I Koreana

ON THE GLOBAL STAGE

Han-na Chang

From Wunderkind to Maestro

When Han-na Chang made her international debut at the tender age of 12, she was acclaimed a phenom of the classical music world. Recently, she has again been in the spotlight as the winner of the Cannes Classical Award. Anna S. Roh I Senior Editor, Auditorium Lee Eun-joo I Photographer

here are few spheres of

in history, a record that still stands.

Varencove Maazel, were duly im-

endeavor that are so enam-

Compared to the violin or piano, the

pressed, resulting in their maintaining

ored with wunderkind as

cello is an instrument rarely mastered

close relations with her and helping

classical music. Over the

by child prodigies of classical music.

to advance her career.

last 20 years, Korea has produced a

After this contest, cello legends

Regrettably, it was only after her

number of musical child prodigies

Rostropovich and Mischa Maisky

victory in the Rostropovich competi-

whose remarkable talent has been

both volunteered to mentor Han-na

tion that Han-na Chang became

recognized the world over. But in the

Chang. With Rostropovich being

widely known in her own country,

majority of these cases, they achieved

notorious for his reluctance to take

Korea. When the media reported that

their fame abroad before being prop-

young talent under his wing, his offer

she had been struggling during the

erly acknowledged in Korea.

created quite a stir in the classical

competition because of the mediocre

music world.

quality of her cello, the Korean

Such is the story of cellist Hanna Chang. She first emerged as an

Rostropovich and Maisky were

Business Council for the Arts provid-

international wunderkind in 1994

not the only maestros to be captivated

ed her with a priceless Guadagnini

when she won both the grand prize

by Chang's obvious talent. Following

cello, made in 1757. Thereafter, she

and the contemporary music prize at

performances by Chang, two promi-

has distinguished herself as a Korean

an international cello competition

nent conductors, the late Giuseppe

wunderkind of classical music ,

presided over by Mstislav Rostro-

Sinopoli and the New York Philhar-

alongside violinist Sarah Chang, two

povich. She was the youngest winner

monic 's resident conductor Lorin

years her senior, who had made her

44 Koreana I Summer 2004

Currently studying for a philosophy degree at Harvard University, Han-na Chang hopes to add to the richness of her music with an education in the humanities

mark at a somewhat earlier age.When

ple's innermost sentiments. By read-

every one or two years. Korean audi-

these two Chang girls reached the

ing Goethe and being inspired by

ences thirsting for her music have

age of 20, in 2001 and 2003, respec-

Tolstoy, I hope that my music may

thus had to content themselves with

tively, they established themselves as

become as rich and mature as their

her recordings. Ever since her wun-

adult artists who had since outgrown

works." That is how Han-na Chang

derkind days, she has maintained an

explained her chosen path in 2002

exclusive contract with EMI, which

Although they were active in

when she returned briefly to Korea to

has lec:l to the release of The Saint-

similar realms -the United States and

perform a recital. She was carrying a

Saens Cello Concertos, conducted by

the EMI record label - their musical

copy of Nietzsche 's Thus Spake

Âˇ Rostropovich, Haydn Cello Concer-

pathways and personalities, which

Zarathustra in her hands, rather than

tos, conducted by Sinopoli, and The

had seemed quite similar early on,

sheet music. To combine university

Swan, a collection of short pieces.

began to reveal marked differences.

study with guest performances is no

Recently, Han-na Chang has cre-

Unlike Sarah Chang, who had chosen

doubt highly demanding, but her

ated yet another sensation with her

to concentrate wholly on music by

grades are rep01ted to be excellent.

fourth album, Prokofiev: Sinfonia

the wunderkind label.

emolling at the Juilliard School, Han-

Unfortunately, Korean audiences

Concertante!Sonata for Cello and

na Chang surprised everyone when

have thus far had few opportunities to

Piano, featuring the London Sym-

she entered Harvard University last

enjoy Han-na Chang's live perfor-

phony Orchestra conducted by

year to major in philosophy.

mances. Spending most of her time in

Antonio Pappano. Released in

"The humanities provide rich

Europe and the United States, today 's

February 2003, the album was recog-

nourishment for the human heart, and

strongholds of classical music, she

nized as the best concerto recording

music is an art for expressing peo-

has returned to Korea only once

of 2003 by both the Gramophone

Koreana I Summer 2004

Just as important as her natural musical talent, Han-na Chang is known for her personal dedication to seemingly endless practice.

Award, sponsored by the U.K.'s

Award. With classical music prefer-

thought of herself as a genius, she is

authoritative classical music maga-

ences having subtle differences in the

not so much being modest as object-

zine Gramophone, and the Echo

U.K ., France , Germany, and the

ing to a failure to give due credit for

Class ic Award, presented by the

United States, in order for a recording

her tireless dedication. If her father

German Recording Association. In

to receive awards in all four countries

had not bought her a cello at the age

January 2004, the album also topped

there must be a universal quality that

of four, and if she had not fallen in

the list of the "soloist plus orchestra"

is evident to all such audiences. A

love with the cello upon hearing a

category of France's highly ac-

spokesperson for EMI noted:

performance by Jacqueline du Pre,

claimed Cannes Classical Award.

"Because each country has distinct

she says she would have become a

Held for the tenth time this year,

preferences in classical music styles,

heart surgeon.

the Cannes Classical Award is based

no previous recording has garnered

"The heart is the one organ in

on a poll of some 700 critics from 8

awards in so many different coun-

the body that must never stop work-

countries, including Germany, the

tries."

ing. I was curious to know how sur-

U.K., and the United States. Along

Those who are acquainted with

geons could operate on the heart with

with the Diapason Award, it is one of

Han-na Chang's conscientious char-

a scalpel." Today, Han-na Chang

the most prestigious French awards

acter and zealous work ethic (she is

wields a bow instead of a scalpel, in a

for recorded music. As such, for a

known for practicing endlessly)

concert hall instead of an operating

Korean performer to be so recognized

regard her as a genius-type who

room. Inasmuch as her music enables

is a truly notewo1thy achievement. In

could have succeeded in any field as

the heart of the spirit to beat on, in a

the U.S. market, the same recording

impressively as she has as a cellist.

sense has she not achieved the same

has been nominated for a Grammy

When Chang says that she has never

result? t.;,t Summer 2004 I Koreana

48 Koreana I Summer 2004

Celadon Master

Lee Yong-hee Reviving the Essence of Goryeo Ceramics

Goryeo celadon is revered for its intriguing color, a kind of jade green or blue with a unique translucence and elegance. The tradition of Goryeo celadon, which had been virtually suspended for some 600 years, has been resurrected thanks to the dedicated efforts of ceramic master Lee Yong-hee. Ryu Min I Freelance Writer Lee II-sub I Photographer

Summer 2004 I Koreana

To produce true re-creations of Goryeo celadon, Lee Yong-hee has lived and breathed earth, glaze, and fire for more than 40 years (below). The elegant jade-green glaze is the distinctive trademark of the highly prized celadon works (opposite page).

reen is an especially

celadon-making in December 2003,

peak in the 12th century," Lee said.

meaningful color for

succeeded in perfectly re-creating the

"Most of the masterpieces excavated

Koreans. From long

color and composition of Goryeo

from Gaeseong, the capital of

ago, the upright charac-

celadon, which effectively had been

Goryeo, were produced in Gangjin.

ter and integrity of the gentleman-

lost for some 600 years. Lee is the

When I first succeeded in reproduc-

scholar, who sought to pursue a

head of what could be called a mod-

ing Goryeo celadon back in 1978, I

morally ethical lifestyle, was symbol-

em-day version of a government kiln,

was overcome with emotion to think

ized by the pine tree, which remained

the Gangjin Goryeo Celadon Kiln

that I, a .Gangjin native, managed to

green even in the bitter cold of win-

Site, where he diligently strives to

re-create the jade-green color of

ter. Moreover, green was the color

resurrect the tradition of Goryeo

Goryeo celadon."

associated with the easterly direction.

celadon production.

A Japanese scholar once noted:

Thus, for Koreans, who have prided

"Gangjin was the center of

"To create the color of Goryeo

themselves on being the courteous

Goryeo celadon production during its

celadon is akin to finding God." This

people of the east, green is a representative color of Korea. And above all else, the exquisite green of Goryeo celadon is the most treasured and admired. The unique color of Goryeo celadon was so wondrous that a Chinese scholar of the Southern Song Dynasty called its "light-green color" one of the ten treasures of the world. But upon the demise of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) in the 14th century, the production of Goryeo celadon was abruptly discontinued, such that its brilliance remained only in legend. That was the case until Lee Yong-hee, designated an Intangible Cultural Property in the art of

Koreana I Summer 2004

"No matter how talented you might be, if you are arrogant or lazy then you won't make anything of yourself. Because the exquisite beauty of Goryeo celadon is something that you have to discover and attain by yourself, you must dedicate all your heart and soul to the undertaking of its creation."

is because the spirit of the maker is as

King Eujong (r. 1146-1170), the 18th

one to do this? Abandoning his farm

important as the physical process.

king of Goreyo. Celadon tiles were

work, he searched throughout the vil-

Goryeo celadon is an extraordinary

mentioned in Goryeosa (History of

lage of Sadang-ri, an area of some

creation that can only result when the

Goryeo ), but this was the first time

1.32 square kilometers, which led to

ceramic artist dedicates all his heart

for an actual tile to be recovered.

his discovery of kiln No. 88, in addi-

and soul to the undertaking. In this

A se1ies of such incidents gradu-

tion to the previously excavated kiln

sense, Lee believes that his past 40

ally drew Lee ever deeper into the

No. 100. After Lee became deter-

years spent as a ceramic artist have

world of Goryeo celadon. Lee began

mined to re-create celadon, he went

been the will of God.

to ponder compelling questions: Why

around asking experts for advice.

"I was born and raised rn

did the production of this remarkable

Their answer was always the same:

Gangjin. Wherever you go rn

celadon so suddenly cease after the

"Your best teacher is very near by."

Gangjin, whether in your front yard

downfall of the Goryeo Dynasty? Can

They meant that Lee could learn

or out in the fields, you can find frag-

it be re-created today? Could I be the

the most from the kiln sites in the

ments of Goryeo celadon everywhere," Lee said. "They were so common when I was young that we would use them to play house. But I always thought that I was destined to be a farmer. Then in 1964, when I was 25 years old, our backyard was discovered to be the site of an ancient kiln, which led to a full-scale excavation project being carried out. It was amazing. On the site of the house where I lived, thousands of pieces of Goryeo celadon were discovered. It was a veritable museum." One of the most meaningful finds was a celadon tile from the roof of Yangijeong, a pavilion built to the east of the palace in the 11th year of

Gangjin area and the fragments of

about a white crane spreading its

shaped into a vessel and then a pat-

celadon found there. Lee would dig

wings and soaring high into space."

tern or design is incised onto the

up clay, knead it, and work it with his

As Lee suggests, close your eyes

body. For inlaid celadon, known as

own hands, in his endeavor to pro-

and imagine such a scene: a thousand

sanggam, the incised designs are

duce Goryeo celadon; a process he

cranes spreading their wings and fly-

filled in with white clay or red clay.

has continuously repeated over his

ing high into the sky at the same

The vessel is then fired, and at this

lifetime. Then in 1978, he fired up

time. Also, imagine a person playing

stage turns a light red. The next step

for the first time the kiln that Âˇhe had

a lute under a pine tree without a care

is glazing.

built with the support of the Gangjin

in the world; beside him a crane mer-

"When the glaze is applied to the

county government, and fired 32

rily dances to the lilting rhythm. Such

vessel, the surface is white. Even the

pieces of his celadon creations.

images of nature and humans in har-

ghosts would be spooked to see the

"The essence of Goryeo celadon

mony are the typical designs used to

way it turns into a bluish-green color

is its unique blue-green color. During

decorate Goryeo celadon. In addition,

after being baked in the kiln for two

the Goryeo Dynasty, the people

auspicious plants and animals, such

days straight at a temperature of 1,300

likened it to the color of jade and

as lotus flowers , peonies, willow

degrees Celsius. The iron oxide in the

called it jade-green. It is a natural

trees , and ducks, adorn celadon

glaze is the key ingredient behind the

color highly admired by Asians. It is

works, accentuating their elegance.

greenish hue, but depending on the

also the color of the inner self. Some

The unique celadon color is a

mixture and proportion of ingredients,

liken it to the color of the distant sky,

function of the glaze applied and a

very different colors can result. The

and others to the color of surrounding

proper firing of the clay piece. Kaolin

secret is in the mixture, which is so

trees and grass. Some think of it as

clay from the Gangjin region is espe-

hard to figure out. Some people may

the color of deep water. From a per-

cially desirable for its elasticity and

spend a lifetime working on the mix-

spective of the concepts of yin and

durability. Moreover, the clay's even

ture and never get it right, so that this

yang and the five elements, the color

texture enables the production of

failure is passed on from one genera-

is symbolic of outer space. Think

high-quality celadon works. Clay is

tion to the next," Lee noted.

1. Gangjin clay is shaped into forms and engraved with patterns. 2. The engraved patterns are filled with kaolin or red earth and then the piece is fired. 3. After the initial firing, the glaze that holds the secret to the celadon's unique jade-green color is applied. 4. The engraved patterns add to the beauty of the luminous glaze after the final firing.

Koreana I Summer 2004

It is in this regard that Lee is

the kiln-firing, during which the

nent ceramic artist of Goryeo, he had

considered to have perfectly re-creat-

works have to be watched constantly.

two apprentices: one, who was highly

ed Goryeo celadon. He has not only

Even then there is no guarantee Âˇthat

talented but had a reprehensible per-

developed his own production tech-

the finished product will be of excep-

sonality, and the other, who was a

niques for the traditional natural

tional quality. Countless times, only

good-natured person but not so tal-

glaze, but has also painstakingly re-

one piece is worth saving and the

ented . The only daughter of the

created the composition of clay and

others are discarded.

ceramic artist loved the good-natured

glaze, as well as the durability, color

"I don't want to hear it said that

apprentice, and sought to inspire him

and luminescence of original Goryeo

the art of celadon has died out

to create the finest Goryeo celadon

celadon. In fact, this has been con-

because I didn't teach it to anyone.

works by throwing herself into the

firmed by a scientific analysis of

But I can't pass on the secrets to just

kiln. When the good-natured appren-

Lee's works conducted by a research

anyone," Lee insists . The basic

tice found out what the daughter had

team from Chonnam National

approach of a ceramic artist is to

done, he wailed in torment and

University in 2003.

work hard, all the time. "No matter

gouged his eyes with a poker.

To appreciate the dedicated

how talented you might be, if you are

Thereafter, the art of Goryeo celadon

effort that Lee put into this undertak-

arrogant or lazy then you won't make

died oÂľt.

ing before attaining the brilliance of

anything of yourself. The exquisite

Lee sits in front of the kiln and

his successful results, consider this:

beauty of Goryeo celadon is some-

watches the fire as it steadily bums,

For over 30 years he has never slept

thing that, in the end, you have to dis-

monitoring its temperature. His hands

for more than 5 hours at a time. And

cover and attain by yourself. So you

are rough, his eyes bright and clear,

he has never had time to even think

have to dedicate all your heart and

while his mouth conveys an unas-

about a holiday. It requires a 70-day

soul to the task of its creation."

suming expression. The flickering

process to create each celadon piece,

In Gangjin, there is a legend

flames seem to be whispering about

involving 24 separate steps carried

about a master ceramic artist of the

the birth of a new Goryeo celadon

out in a rigid order. The final stage is

Goryeo Dynasty. As the most promi-

legend. L.t

Sum mer 2004 I Ko reana

fter proceeding along the Jungang

contrast with the intriguingly shaped rock formations and

Expressway, we tum off at the Jecheon exit

pine tree forest in the background. Of note, the Donggang

and then travel down National Road No. 38.

has gained a reputation as the most popular rafting water-

Suddenly, the four-lane road begins to nar-

way in Korea. The Donggang's surrounding areas are

row. As the roadway narrows, sharp curves must be nego-

teeming with visitors year-round, as they seek to experi-

tiated while the geographical features of the mountains

ence a once-in-a-lifetime adventure as well as the breath-

become more evident. Then, a slow-moving stream comes

taking scenery. Another way to enjoy the Eorayeon area is

into sight, along with more twisting turns. This is the

to trek through its valleys and woodlands. As you make

Seogang River, which due to its contorted alignment, is

your way along the pathways and mountains nearby the

also called the Sagang (Snake River). This is where

Donggang, you can enjoy the area's diverse ecology and

Yeongwol County begins. The waters of the Seogang are a

refreshing landscape.

dark emerald. It seems that the green mountains are reflected in the river's clear waters.

Among the attractions that definitely must be seen in the Seogang area are the Seondol and other uniquely Korean geographical features. The Seondol is a 70-meter-

Donggang and Seogang Rivers

high rock located at Sonagijae, which is downstream of the

Yeongwol, located in the inland region of Gangwon-

Seogang, where the surrounding natural scenery closely

do, is well-known for its picturesque scenery and verdant

resembles an Oriental landscape painting. The rock that

forests. Jecheon and Danyang, which are situated in

projects upward like a huge tower harmonizes perfectly

Chungcheongbuk-do, and Yeongju and Bonghwa, located

with the Seogang's flowing waters. According to legend,

in Gyeongsangbuk-do, border Yeongwol. Yeongwol

this rock, which was spilt into two pieces, is called the

encompasses an area of about 1,127 square kilometers that

Shinseonam, or "Taoist hermit rock." Another geographi-

is home to a population of some 45,000 residents. Two

cal attraction is Seonam Village, which is contoured like

rivers flow through Yeongwol-the Seogang that I passed

the Korean peninsula. The west side of this village slopes

by on the way here and the Donggang. The Donggang,

gently toward the Seogang, while the east side is steeply

which is part of the upper reaches of the Hangang River,

sloped. As such, the topography of Seonam Village is like

flows as far as Yeongwol, some 51 kilometers from its

a small-scale replication of the Korean peninsula, in that

source in the valley adjacent to Jeongseon and

the eastern half is elevated while the western side is notice-

Pyeongchang. The Donggang meets up with the Seogang

ably flatter. When you look at this village's topography in

in Yeongwol. The Seogang flows westward as it merges

more detail, you can observe geographical features similar

with the Donggang. The impetuous, turbulent currents of

to those of Ttangkkeut Village in Haenam, Jeollanam-do,

the Donggang flow more leisurely as the depth of the river

and Homigot in Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

deepens where it meets up with the Seogang. As such, the Donggang has often been compared to a man, and the Seogang to a woman.

King Danjong's Place of Exile These two rivers flow around Yeongwol, which is also

Boasting a truly unique landscape, Eorayeon is the

surrounded by rugged mountains, forming a natural barrier

most gorgeous segment of the Donggang. Featuring three

that restricts access to the area. As such, these two rivers

marshes, this area offers indescribable scenery due to its

produce an island that is far inland, which can function as a

The Eorayeon area along the Donggang River, northeast of Yeongwol-eup, is said to feature the river's most picturesque scenery (opposite page).

Summer 2004 I Koreana 57

prison without walls. In fact, Cheongnyeongpo was the island where King Danjong (1441-1457) was exiled. The sixth king of the Joseon Dynasty, King Danjong ascended to the throne at the age of 12. In 1456, when he turned 16, his uncle usurped the throne, and declared himself king (dynastic name Sejo), while Danjong was demoted to the rank of Nosangun. Danjong was dispatched to Cheongnyeongpo in Yeongwol, an area that served as his prison, with steep cliffs on the western side and rivers flowing on the other three sides. Even today, Cheongnyeongpo can be reached only by boat. The house where the deposed King Danjong lived has been restored, and there is a monument bearing the inscription: "A former king lived here." Within the Cheongnyeongpo forest, there is a pine tree that stands some 30 meters tall, which is known as Gwaneumsong, because it is said to have witnessed the tragedy of King Danjong. This 600-year-old tree is there to tell all those who visit about the tragic life of King Danjong. In addition to Cheongnyeongpo, there are several historic sites associated with King Danjong: Gwanpungheon, Jagyuru, and Jangneung, all of which are situated in the downtown area of Yeongwol. Jangneung is where Danjong was buried after being poisoned in 1457. The pine trees that witnessed his death continue to stand guard at his gravesite, mourning his unfortunate demise. The pine trees at Jangneung are admired for their unwavering loyalty to the king. Reflecting upon this scene, I could appreciate just how apropos the age-old proverb is in comparing the loyalty of subjects to evergreen trees. Yeongwol County performs an annual ritual for King Danjong in April to console the soul of this star-crossed monarch. Continuing a little farther, about 700 meters beyond Jangneung is Geummongam Temple. Although this temple, built by the renowned Buddhist monk Uisang Daesa in 680, was originally named Jideogam, when King Danjong At the Joseon Folk Art Museum, children can try their hand at the folk arts popular during the Joseon period (above). Jangneung royal tomb, the gravesite of the ill-fated Joseon King Danjong (right). Gossi Cave, a natural limestone grotto, is believed to have been created some 400-500 million years ago (opposite page).

Koreana I Summer 2004

As compared to the endless twists and turns of human history, nature seems to change little over time. As such, these two rivers ceaselessly flow along the steep cliffs off Cheongnyeongpo Island with little apparent concern for the tragic story of King Danjong.

first set eyes on this temple he indicated that he had once seen it in a dream. Thereafter, this temple came to be known as Geummongam. Some 200 meters past Geummongam is the site of Bodeoksa Temple, which was built by Uisang Daesa in 668.

'l &t

Wandering Poet, Kim Satgat In addition to King Danjong, Yeongwol is home to

another prominent historical figure, a poet who lived during

the latter Joseon period. This poet, Kim Byung-yeon (pen

... J

name: Nango), lived from 1807 to 1863. Kim was a talented writer from his early youth. When he was 20 years old, he received the highest score on the government civil service examination. As patt of this examination, he wrote an essay in which he hmÂˇshly c1iticized his grandfather. Upon learning the truth about his grandfather, Kim blamed himself for writing something so dishonorable about his ancestor. He decided to leave his hometown, while lamenting: "How could such a sinner ever cast his eyes upon the sky?" Dming his wandering about, he would always wear a satgat, or bamboo hat. And because of this trademark, he

came to be known as the wandering poet Kim Satgat. As he roamed aimlessly throughout the country, Kim Satgat wrote poems that satirized the corruption of government officials. Yeongwol was where he decided to abandon his

Summer 2004 I Koreana 59

The rapids of Donggang River, which flow past magnificent rock formations, have become Korea's most popular rafting course.

Koreana I Summer 2004

nomadic lifestyle and settle down. Nevertheless, it became

tranquil setting where you can relax amid the stars above.

known only some 20 years ago that Kim Byeong-yeon had

The Byeolrnaro Astronomical Observatory is a magnet for

been buried in one of Yeongwol's valleys. In fact, it was

amateur astronomers. But everyone is welcome to visit and

not until 1982 that his gravesite was discovered in

observe the heavenly skies and take photographs of the

Waseok-ri, Hadong-myeon. Related to this, Yeongwol

stars and planets. Bongnaesan also features a paragliding

County has erected several monuments bearing his poems,

area and a marvelous walking path. From the paragliding

in commemoration of his literary achievements, and estab-

area, the adventurous Âˇcan soar high into the Yeongwol sky,

lished a Literature Street in his honor.

while the fresh air of Yeongwol can be enjoyed as you

In addition, a Kim Satgat Cultural Festival is present-

stroll along the nearby forest areas.

ed each October to promote his importance in Korea's lit-

Other things to see in Yeongwol include the

erary culture. The scenery around Kim Satgat's grave,

International Museum of Contemporary Art that displays

which had been described as a utopian paradise during his

about 200 works of world-renowned sculptors; the

time, is beautiful indeed. The 6-kilometer tract from the

Yeongwol Book Museum, the only one of its kind in

entrance of the valley to his grave has been designated as

Korea; the Yeongwol Insectarium, which exhibits about

Kim Satgat Valley. The poetry monuments in his honor are

3,000 specimens of butterflies, moths, and other insects;

found along this way, enabling visitors to enjoy a thought-

and the Joseon Folk Art Museum. The Yeongwol Book

provoking experience.

Museum and Yeongwol Insectarium are housed in former

On the way to Kim Satgat Valley from downtown

school buildings . When these facilities opened, people

Yeongwol, you can stop by Gossi Cave (Natural

started to again visit these old schools that had long been

Monument No. 219), situated on the right bank of the

abandoned.

Seogang. This cave was given this name because members

For those seeking to glimpse into the everyday life of

of the Go family hid there during the Japanese invasions of

Yeongwol residents, I would recommend browsing around

1592-1598. Within this limestone cave, which is said to

the traditional markets. The Deokpo five-day market is

have been formed some 400-500 million years ago, you

held in front of Yeongwol station on days ending in 4 or 9,

can find remnants left by the Go family. Moreover, the

while the Jucheon five-day market is held at Jucheon-

cave features mysteriously shaped stalactites.

myeon on days ending in 1 or 6. On market days, Yeongwol bustles with vendors, Yeongwol residents shop-

Things to See and Do

ping for daily necessities, and farmers offering their agri-

To this point, we have mentioned the natural and his-

cultural products. Here, you can get a sense of the dynamic

torical sites in and around Yeongwol. However, our trip to

energy of the people of Yeongwol, who have maintained

Yeongwol would not be complete if it did not include at

the area's local spirit and culture.

least a couple more worthwhile destinations. From down-

Mountains, rivers, skies, fields, and markets ... these

town Yeongwol, Mt. Bongnaesan rises to the right. Atop

precious resources seem to be found everywhere in

thi s 799 .8-meter-high mountain is the Byeolmaro

Yeongwol. Some effort is needed to reach Yeongwol,

Astronomical Observatory, where visitors can observe the

because of the physical obstacles along the way, but it will

stars and heavenly bodies. Byeolmaro, a combination of

likely be even more difficult to leave once you spend some

the words byeol (star) and maro (top of the mountain), is a

time there.

Summer 2004 I Koreana

Bibimbap is an all-in-one meal that consists of rice combined with a variety of ingredients, such as meat, vegetables, egg, and sesame oil. Koo Chun-sur I Director, World Food Culture Research Institute Bae Jae-hyung I Photographer Lee Kyung I Food Stylist

ibimbap contains all the nutrition that is needed for a complete meal. Moreover, it includes the added advantage of being adaptable to practically any recipe. Bibimbap is creative as well as unique in that its color and appearance will vary according to the ingredients

used and the personal tastes of the preparer. As ever more of the world has come to be highly developed, people's activ-

ities are now more diversified, while food culture has changed accordingly. One-dish foods that are easy to prepare and to clean up have thus become increasingly popular. For example, the sandwich invented by the English, the hamburger and hotdog popularized by the United States, and the curry-rice dishes of India, are favorites for their simplicity. In fact, it is said that the sandwich and hamburger were developed by accident. Meanwhile, Korea has a one-dish meal of its own: bibimbap.

Creative One-dish Meal Bibimbap is simply a bowl of rice that is mixed with various kinds of vegetables, together with mushrooms, a fried egg, and ground meat, and seasoned with red chili pepper paste. A dribble of sesame oil can add to its savory taste. To foreign nationals who are not familiar with Korean food culture, the concept of bibim (mixing rice with side dishes) might seem somewhat obscure. The basic objective of bibimbap is to combine various ingredients with rice in order to create a harmony of contrasting tastes. A unique tasting bibimbap can be created depending on the particular recipe, ingredients added, season when it is prepared, and personal preferences of the preparer. Every country is known for its representative foods, but variations can often be found in regard to their names. For instance, visitors to France are often perplexed by the endless variety of cheeses available, each with their own appearance and taste. I have been told that there are some 365 different varieties of cheese currently being produced in France. Bibimbap, on the other hand, is very straightforward for foreigners since it goes by only one name. When a special ingredient is included, its name can be added to identify a particular type of bibimbap, such as kkot (flower) bibimbap. Sometimes, the name of a region is affixed to the front of bibimbap, such as Jeonju bibimbap, to make known its unique regional characteristics. Despite the fact that there are such modifications in the names of bibimbap, the extra ingredients never replace the basic items; they are simply supplemental additions. For Summer 2004 I Koreana

example, soybean sprouts are an additional ingredient of Jeonju bibimbap.

Origins of Bibimbap Siuijeonseo, a cookbook compiled in the late 1800s, includes the first-ever reference to bibimbap. In these records, bibimbap is also referred to as bubuimbap and goldongban. As gol means "disorderly" and dong means "mix," goldong refers to thoroughly mixing different things together. Therefore, goldongban is a reference to rice combined with various side dishes or ingredients in a bowl.

A few of the theories or stories about the origin of bibimbap include the following. First, is the "palace food theory." A meal prepared for the king during the Joseon Dynasty was known as sura, while bibim was served as a light meal whenever the king's relatives visited the palace. Second, is the "meal for peasants during the farming season theory." Although peasants would have to eat several daily meals during the farming season, it was difficult to have regular meals in the rice fields. As such, for convenience, the peasants would use a single bowl, in which rice was combined with side dishes. Third, is the "Donghak uprising theory." When the Donghak uprising (a revolutionary movement led by peasants to protest the rampant corruption of government officials and the encroachment of foreign powers) broke out in the Gobu area of the Jeolla provinces in 1894, the Donghak peasant rebels were forced to mix their rice together with side dishes because of their lack of bowls and plates. Lastly, there is the "eumbok theory." Eumbok refers to the tradition of eating the food offerings used during ancestral rites upon the conclusion of the ceremony. In doing so, people would place some of each food item into a bowl and then mix them together before eating. Although we might never know which of these theories is true, these stories about its origins prove that bibimbap is indeed a traditional Korean creation, deeply rooted in our history and culture.

Preparing Bibimbap The primary ingredient of bibimbap is rice, typically plain white rice, while

Bibimbap contains all the nutrition that is needed for a complete meal. Moreover, it includes the added advantage of being adaptable to practically any recipe. Bibimbap is creative as well as unique in that its color and appearance will vary according to the ingredients used and the personal tastes of the preparer.

64 Koreana I Summer 2004

"Flower bibimbap" includes seasonal flowers as an added ingredient for a special fragrance and flavor (above). (opposite page) 1. The ingredients for bibimbap are prepared with care. 2. Each ingredient contributes its own flavor and texture. 3. Prepared ingredients are neatly arranged on freshly steamed rice.

the vegetables are prepared in advance. Red pepper paste is added for a spicy flavor, while a splash of sesame oil or perilla seed oil is included to enhance the bibimbap's savoriness. Lastly, a fried egg is added to balance the color and appearance of the dish, and to supplement its nutritional value. Bibimbap seems like a simple meal to prepare. However, because it requires a number of different ingredients, it is actually one of the most difficult dishes to get just right. For truly great tasting bibimbap, a variety of ingredients are needed and thorough preparation should be made in advance. Nevertheless, bibimbap has the advantage of being a meal that, though simple in nature, is above all highly nutritious and healthy. Bibimbap is also an ideal choice for budget-minded families since a variety of ingredients are readily available yearround.

Summer 2004 I Koreana

The drastic decline in the nation's birthrate has become a serious crisis with far-reaching consequences. To understand the various factors contributing to this situation, there is a particular need to assess the attitudes of Korean women toward childbirth and raising children in today's world. Ham ln-hee I Professor of Sociology, Ewha Womans University Seo Heun-kang I Photographer

hen Korea's birth-

new catchphrase: "Why don't we

rate peaked in the

have one more child?" However, in

1960s , the ideal

light of today's circumstances, the

family was thought

intended message is serious in nature,

to include three sons and three

rather than an attempt at humor.

daughters. To have many children was a symbol of great fortune in an

Birthrate Falls to 1.17

agrarian society. In fact, there was a

According to statistics prepared

common saying back then that "each

by the Ministry of Health and Welfare

child is born with his/her own luck."

in 2003, Korea's birthrate now stands

The childbirth rate is directly

at 1.17 children, thus falling below

related to the ability to ensure the

the record lows set by European

adequate care and education of a

countries, which are widely known

child, at the family level, and the pro-

for their extremely low birthrates.

vision of human resources, at the

Although this decline in birthrate is a

national level. Therefore, the govern-

worldwide trend , the majority of

ment has sought to regulate the child-

demographic specialists maintain that

birth rate, believing that too rapid an

the drastic downturn in Korea's

increase in population will negatively

birthrate is abnormal. In the past,

impact the national economy. Korea

demographic specialists predicted that

has also applied this approach for the

despite the government's active sup-

development of its economy. It is

port, Korea's family-planning policy

well known that Korea's family-plan-

measures were unlikely to show posi-

ning policy efforts were formulated

tive results because of the prevailing

as part of its economic development

preference for boys. However, these

plan, a policy initiative that has been

projections have since been overshad-

deemed a notable success.

owed by the fact that Korea has

The Korean government's campaign at the time was promoted with

become the fastest rising member of the declining birthrate countries.

the slogan: "Let's raise two good kids, regardless of their gender." In fact, up

In days gone by, tradition called for geumju/to be hung outside a home to signify the birth of a baby and discourage the entry of outsiders.

New Attitudes

until a few years ago it was common

The primary factor behind the

to hear the saying : "A well-raised

sharp plummet in Korea's birthrate

daughter does ten times better for her

has been a decrease in the relative

parents than a son ." While being

value of children. Children used to be

bombarded by these slogans, the

regarded as a symbol of happiness

younger generation responded with

and good fo1tune, as well as a foun-

jokes such as "family planning should

dation of the labor force ; however,

be discussed with your neighbor, so

with the costs associated with raising

that every three families can have just

children now seeming to rise endless-

one child." However, the cmTent situ-

ly, they have increasingly come to be

ation has led to the introduction of a

perceived as too costly an investSummer 2004 I Koreana

Career vs. Children The current trend, in which Korean women are delaying or avoiding childbirth, is proliferating at an alarming rate. With Korean women who are in their mid and late 20s being forced to balance marriage, career, and childbirth at the same ment. For example, women who are

tion: "Do you have any plans to pro-

time, it is only natural for them to

in their 70s spent 40 years of their

vide for the welfare of your parents?"

experience a sense of crisis. As such,

lives to raise 6 children, on average,

one-third

participants

ever more women are choosing to

while women in their 50s spent 36

answered: "Yes, my parents will live

delay marriage or postpone childbirth

years raising 4 children, and women

with me"; one-third responded: "I

as one means of dealing with this no-

in their 30s and 40s will commit

will decide based on the situation";

win predicament.

some 28 years to raising two chil-

and the remaining one-third said: "I

In 2003, the average age for

dren. As a result, although the num-

do not want my parents to live with

couples getting married in Korea was

ber of children has decreased, the

me, if at all possible."

27 for women and 29.8 for men. As

of the

time and effort that must be invested

The number of elderly parents

childbirth is now a matter of con-

in each child have increased signifi-

who depend on their eldest son's

scious choice, rather than a chance

cantly. The fact that Korean parents'

family for their care has decreased as

outcome, many women of the older

expenses for private tutoring are the

well. In a survey conducted by KBS

generation are increasingly forced to

highest in the world has also con-

and the Korean Family Studies

accept that, "it would be nice if my

tributed to the financial burden.

Association in 2001, 20 percent of

daughter or daughter-in-law decided

Moreover, a traditional belief

the elderly respondents said: "I will

to have a baby." Under these circum-

that children will be responsible for

live with whichever of my children

stances, the traditional status of the

ensuring the well-being of their

wants me to live with them." Only

first daughter-in-law has been eroded,

elderly parents has seemingly disap-

4.7 percent of the elderly parents

as exemplified by the expression:

peared. The current situation of the

remained steadfast in insisting on liv-

"Mothers-in-law now complain that

last generation who lived with their

ing with their oldest son. Meanwhile,

while it is easy to find out a son-in-

parents, and of the first generation of

71.5 percent responded: "I will just

law's salary, it is impossible to find

elderly parents who have been essen-

live with my spouse." In the past,

out their own son's." Moreover, the

tially abandoned by their children,

children used to be thought of as a

fact that ever more women will

has led to a further deterioration in

kind of insurance policy when it

downplay the fact that their husbands

people's attitudes toward the respon-

came to welfare after retirement.

are eldest sons, while not revealing

sibilities of raising children.

However, with this tradition being

that they are the first daughters-in-

As such, a common belief that it

steadily undermined, the government

law, clearly indicates that the tradi-

is indeed difficult to raise children,

has increasingly been forced to

tional preference for oldest sons has

and even that children are nothing but

replace children as the primary

lost much of its relevance.

trouble in the end, has been taking

provider for the elderly, through the

Western countries that have

root in Korean society. A survey of

provision of national pensions, wel-

already encountered this declining

first-born sons in their 30s was con-

fare benefits and expanded health

birthrate phenomenon have attained

ducted during the 1990s. To the ques-

care insurance.

varying degrees of success in over-

Koreana I Summer 2004

coming its adverse consequences through the adoption of such measures as promoting public responsibility for childrearing, offering family-friendly support initiatives, and enhancing the parental rights of fathers. For its part, the Korean government has sought to promote a childbirth-encouragement policy, which includes extending the maternity-leave period, improving daycare facilities at workplaces, and providing a cost of living allowance for a family that has a third child. However, this downward trend in the birthrate has proven to be considerably more persistent than expected.

In Korea, working mothers will typically take three weeks or so of maternity leave. These days, post-childbirth health care services are thriving.

Nationwide Effort Required In an effort to assess women's

birth-encouragement policy can hard-

efforts at the national level to develop

ly be expected to be effective in recti-

viable solutions to this serious prob-

plans for childbirth after marriage,

fying the declining birthrate trend.

lem. As such, all of us must do our

the Ewha Weekly surveyed 170 stu-

To remedy the decreasing

part to create a society that is con-

dents of Ewha Womans University in

birthrate, a dramatic alteration of cur-

ducive to sound levels of childbirth

October 2003. Of those surveyed,

rent lifestyles will be required. As

and population growth. In paiticular,

31.5 percent of the participants

Jong as an institutional culture in

this will require policy measures that

responded that they did not plan to

which sacrificing family life is

can help ensure a proper balance

have children. As for the reasons for

accepted as an integral element of a

between career and family life.

this response, 33.3 percent cited the

career-first ideology continues to pre-

Furthermore, a social system capable

excessive economic burdens of rais-

vail, while traditional beliefs that it is

of assuring the health and education

ing and educating children; 20.6 per-

a mother's job to raise the children

of all children needs to be estab-

cent believed that self-realization was

remain in place, and the economic

lished. Moreover, people's attitudes

more important than having a child;

burdens related to private tutoring

toward retirement age and caring for

and 19 percent stated that they had no

expenses are not eased, then Korea's

our elderly population need to be

desire to get married. The results of

declining birthrate will inevitably

changed by focusing on the fact that

this survey clearly demonstrate the

continue unabated.

this decline in the birthrate and the

paradigm shift that has apparently

Raising our future generations

advent of an aging society are pro-

taken root in this new generation.

can no longer be solely the responsi-

ceeding simultaneously. In addition,

Furthermore, in light of the divorce

bility of women. Moreover, this prin-

there is a need to establish policy

and remarriage rates already on the

ciple should not be applied at only

strategies that are geared toward our

rise, and the number of people who

the family level either; the govern-

current low-population-growth soci-

regard their children as a burden

ment, businesses, and families will

ety before it is too late. l...t

increasing as well, the existing child-

all be required to put f01th concerted Summer 2004 I Koreana

MARKETS: Beautiful Store

'Beautiful Store' Quietly Promotes a Culture of Sharing and Recycling The "Beautiful Store," a non-profit organization, sells recycled articles that have been donated, and in turn, contributes its profits to endeavors which promote the public good, or to charity. The organization currently operates 20 outlets that promote the virtues of sharing and reusing previously owned consumer goods. Cha Jeong-sin I Freelance Writer Choi Hang-young I Photographer

nyone who seeks to pursue a simpler lifestyle should strive to possess less. Whenever a desire to acquire things arises, such an individual should suppress this urge by exercising self-control, or purchase needed items in a responsible manner. However, what do

you do when you already have an item similar to that which you desire to acquire? Simply throwing the old item away would be an insult to our Mother Earth. Then, the question is: What should we do with those old things that we no longer need anymore? A wise man once said: "Donate things that you no longer need to others. Let others breathe new life into them." This is how the Beautiful Store got started.

All Items Donated Some 80 managers can now be seen working at the various outlets of the Beautiful Store network. However, only three years ago, the Beautiful Store was no more than a mom-and-pop operation. The most pressing issue for the Beautiful Store at that time was how it could set up a shop where the secondhand goods donated by people could be recycled and sold to others at a reasonable price. In May 2001 , as an effort to publicize its purpose, the founders of the 70

Koreana I Summer 2004

The Beautiful Store is where you can enjoy the satisfaction of buying items at a reasonable price while at the same time helping out those in need.

Beautiful Store operated a mobile flea market on the streets. Thereafter, they began to demonstrate to people what could be done with used items. In October 2002, the first retail outlet was opened in Anguk-dong, Seoul. Early on, the brains behind the Beautiful Store wondered whether people would actually purchase things that had been previously owned, and whether people would exhibit a sense of sharing by donating their used items. However, as they proceeded to open new outlets, one after the other, they came to realize that their worries were wholly unfounded. Sometimes, outlets are empty because everything has been sold, at other times, so many things are donated that the storage areas overflow. All the items in the Beautiful Store have been donated; even the space for the outlets have been made available by individuals, businesses, and organizations that support the objectives of this endeavor. In addition, volunteers who generously donate their time and energy take care of the day-to-day management of the store operations. People who patticipate in this Beautiful Store initiative can be referred to as angels: including those who donate their old things, and the volunteer staff who work at the head office and outlets, or come out for special events. Numerous people have participated as angels. Some angels go to great lengths to donate Summer 2004 I Koreana

used items, at times even from areas that are outside the range of the pick-up vehicles. Whenever the managers of the Beautiful Store read a note from a donation angel who apologizes for contributing such old items, they are invariably touched by this concern of people. Meanwhile, the worker angels play an instrumental role in promoting the Beautiful Store by responding to all queries in a professional and courteous manner.

Built on Love As ever more people participate in the Beautiful Store operations, new ideas have come to be implemented. Every time a new branch outlet has been opened, more creative activities have been introduced, which in tum has led to innovative new programs being developed for network-wide application. A new

The Beautiful Store's out-

store is now opened every three months or so. In fact, six new stores were

lets, and all of the items

opened in March of this year alone. The newly opened Anyang outlet at the Gyeonggi Geumulko Center has provided people with the opportunity to wit-

on sale, have been donat-

ness the Beautiful Store's recycling process firsthand: from the sorting center,

ed by people who volun-

cleaning area, and where donated items are repaired, to the outlet floor where

tarily participate in this

the recycled products are exhibited for sale, and the handicraft room where used

low-key campaign. The

items are given a new lease on life. A large number of organizations and company employees take part in the

Beautiful Store is able to

Beautiful Saturday program, one of the primary activities of the Beautiful Store.

maintain its operations

On Saturdays, employees from various companies come by with donated items

thanks to the public's par-

and spend the day serving as worker angels. The profits earned on these Saturdays

ticipation and the assis-

are donated to a variety of charities. All the outlets prominently display nameplates of the businesses and organizations that participate in the Beautiful Saturday events to express their appreciation for these invaluable contributions, but also to acknowledge the generosity of everyone involved. A visit to one of the outlets where the Beautiful Saturday events are held will enable you to be immersed in an atmosphere filled with joyful energy as the worker angels and customers so cheerfully interact with each other. A similar environment can be experienced by visiting an area in which the Mobile Store program is being undertaken. Using vehicles donated by a variety of organizations, the Beautiful Store has adopted an outdoor store concept. As such, these are "portable stores." In fact, more people visit these mobile store areas than the regular outlets. The mobile stores also help to spread the word about how people can recycle the used items that are stored away in their closet or basement. The Mobile Store program has been expanded to become the Beautiful Sharing Market, an event that is held at the Hangang Riverside Park at Ttukseom. This is a periodic flea market where people are free to offer their used items for sale. The Beautiful Store also operates a popular Internet site (www.beautifulstore.org), where people can purchase all manner of items at the Saengsaeng Mall.

In addition, special events, such as auctions and sales, are often featured . Above 72 Koreana I Su mmer 2004

tance of dedicated volunteers.

The Beautiful Store not only makes use of unwanted items but also donates all its profits to the betterment of society. An all-volunteer staff handles the day-to-day operations at each outlet (left). All items for sale at retail outlets have been donated by generous individuals (right).

all, good-quality products can be purchased at reasonable prices. Moreove1~ the

Beautiful Store also makes available the results of its management and accounting audits on its Internet site. All the outlets publish detailed and transparent repmts of their revenue and expenditures, as well as how profits are disbursed. Among its various activities, the Alternative Trade program is the initiative with the loftiest goals. The items sold as part of this program are not only beautiful but high quality as well. These articles include, among others, handbags, accessories, and notebooks; in other words, items that are useful in everyday life. As such, these products have gained widespread acceptance among consumers. Under the Alternative Trade program, workers from underdeveloped countries, in large part women, produce the goods that are acquired for a fair price and then offered for sale to consumers at store outlets. The ambitious goals of the Alternative Trade program include the reduction of poverty and labor exploitation through the pursuit of fair trade and establishment of a partnership among producers, importers, and consumers. Already, more than 20 outlets have opened as of April this year. This phenonienal growth has been realized in a mere two years. As the Beautiful Store continues to learn from its ongoing experiences, the number of its outlets, managers, volunteers, and customers has rapidly increased. All of these achievements are rooted in the virtue of sharing and from people's willingness to recycle previously owned consumer goods. This silent transformation of everyday life began with a dream of establishing a sound recycling culture under which unwanted items end up in the hands of new users, while providing benefits for everyone involved. People who practice this viltue of sharing live by the following motto: "Like a fountain that continuously pumps out fresh water, your everyday life will be overflowing with joy when you practice the virtue of sharing." Despite the hectic rat race that we must cope with, you can be a donation angel by simply contributing the things that you are not using anymore. And if you can help to breathe new life into the recycled items donated to the Beautiful Store, you can serve as a worker angel. Being an angel has never been easier or more rewarding! 1..11 Summer 2004 I Koreana

OVERING

KOtll

Hampyeong Butterfly Festival

The Hampyeong Butterfly Festival is Korea's representative environmental-theme festival that allows visitors to appreciate the natural wonders of spring in Korea. 74 Koreana I Summer 2004

utterf Ii es Embroider the Skies of Hampyeong In May each year, the skies of Hampyeong are swarming with butterflies. To experience this delightful scene, all you have to do is to visit the Hampyeong Butterfly Festival, where countless butterflies flutter about in a fresh natural setting.

Park Kang-sup I Reporter, Kookmin /Ibo Choi Hang-young I Photographer

ampyeong" has long been known as "a

Each year, the festival kicks off with

fields and paddies that have yet to be

the release of tens of thousands of

sown, and the banks of Hampyeong-

world where all things

butterflies at Hampyeongcheon

cheon Stream, which are blanketed

live together in harmo-

Waterside Park, where they flutter

with rape and astragalus flowers. In

ny and abundance." It is a name that

about the yellow rape flowers, white

addition, the butterfly-shaped flower

embodies the fertility of the

radish flowers, and crimson astra-

garden on the slopes of Susanbong

Jeollanam-do region as well as the

galus wildflowers in full bloom, and

peak, that rises up at the edge of

warm generosity of the Honam peo-

also make their way to the 33-square-

Hampyeong-eup and is visible from

p I e. The month of May is when

kilometer Environment Friendly

as far as 4 kilometers away, has

Korea's premier ecology-theme festi-

Agricultural District.

become a popular tourist attraction.

val, the Hampyeong Butterfly

When the butterfly festival

This one-of-a-kind hilltop garden,

Festival, gets underway, transforming

comes around even the trees and

which forms a gigantic butterfly mea-

the idyllic world of Hampyeong into

plants of Hampyeong have a role to

suring 50 meters by 40 meters, is

a wonderland of butterflies and flow-

play. A huge flower garden in the

made up of red royal azaleas and

ers. Since its launch in 1999, this

shape of a butterfly is created on the

white fringe trees. This huge butterfly

unique butterfly festival, held annual-

grounds of the waterside park.

of flowers and trees appears as if it

ly in Hampyeong-gun, Jeollanam-do,

Indeed, everywhere in Hampyeong is

might strut flutte1ing its wings at any

is now in its sixth year of operation.

covered with flowers , including the

moment and glide over the fields of Summer 2004 I Koreana 75

astragalus flowers, helped along by

the birds and the gleeful laughter of

on everything about butterflies, while

the gentle May breeze.

children enjoying a picnic seem to be

children can also try butterfly catch-

carried on the wings of the butterflies

ing. Other attractions include a horti-

to echo in the skies above.

cultural center, where education on

The butterfly festival is scheduled for late spring when the yellow rape flowers along Hampyeongcheon

The festival features a diverse

various herbs is available; a water lily

Stream and the crimson astragalus

variety of attractions and events. By

exhibition, which displays some 500

flowers in the fields of Hampyeong

far, the most popular is the butterfly

beautiful water lilies; and the outdoor

are in full bloom. Tens of thousands

ecology center where thousands of

activity center where visitors can take

of butterflies flutter among the

butterflies dizzily dait and flit among

a stab at dyeing cloth with natural

resplendent flowers, creating an illu-

fields of wildflowers. These exhibits,

dyes, or rinsing their hair with iris-

sion that the air and the ground are

which include a butterfly metamor-

extract water. Another worthwhile

~omehow in motion. The singing of

phosis classroom, offer information

attraction is the exhibition hall that

The Hampyeong Butterfly Festival is not simply for spectators but an event that can be best enjoyed by participatingÂˇ in the various activities. In doing so, visitors will be able to come away with lifetime memories of the wonders of nature. The fields of rape flowers in full bloom along Hampyeongcheon Stream make for a dazzling scene (below). Butterfly and insect exhibitions feature an abundance of specimens and detailed information (right). The Hampyeong Butterfly Festival includes a diverse variety of related events and activities (far right).

displays 60,000 insect and butterfly

less opportunities where couples and

(Pseudogobio esocinus,) a kind of

specimens, including rare butterflies

families can take photos amid pic-

freshwater fish that can thrive only in

and insects from Korea and abroad as

turesque scenery. In the fields of rape

the cleanest waters (grade 1), while

well as a collection of butterflies

flowers that grow as high as an

in the dark recesses of an abandoned

from North Korea donated by Lee

adult's chest, cameras whirl and click

mine, orange-whiskered Korean bats

Seung-mo, an entomologist born in

constantly as couples take pictures,

sleep soundly, awaiting nightfall.

North Korea.

while along the stream banks, where

Swallows, which have been increas-

The various other activities pro-

nameless wildflowers wave in the

ingly disappearing from agricultural

vide plenty of things to see and do. In

breeze, groups of people stroll

areas due to the spread of pollutants,

particular, there are a number of

leisurely, leaving behind long shad-

are a common sight in Hampyeong.

hands-on activities, so that visitors

ows as they enjoy the warmth of May

are not simply spectators but active

sunshine.

Standing in the fields of Hampyeong it is quite easy to fall

participants. These include butterfly

The stepping-stones across

into a butterfly dreamland, like the

face-painting, ceramic making, mud-

Hampyeongcheon Stream, which

ancient Chinese philosopher Zhuang

fish catching, creating insects out of

young couples delight in crossing,

Zi who once wondered: "I don 't

wood, a traditional straw-craft exhi-

though shrieking at the slightest mis-

know . whether I was dreaming of

bition, traditional natural dyeing, and

step, is a re-creation of a poignant

turning into a butterfly or if I was a

a traditional food market.

scene from Hwang Sun-won's novel

butterfly turning into a human

The 600-meter pathway between

Sonagi (Shower), in which a country

being. " Hampyeong is a paradise

the butterfly ecology center at the

boy just watches a girl from Seoul

world where flowers and butterflies

waterside park and Susanbong butter-

who plays with the flowing water as

sing the glory of nature, and in May

fly hill provides an enjoyable agricul-

she makes her way across the step-

it is where anyone can again enjoy

ture-related experience, during which

ping-stones, as he is too shy to cross

the friends of nature from their child-

the atmosphere of the countryside

while she is there. This scene from

hood.

can be fully appreciated. In conjunc-

the novel seems to awaken a wistful

tion with the festival, various farming

sentimentality of love long forgotten.

activities are conducted in the area,

Today, Hampyeong is one of the

including 1ice transplanting and live-

few clean, pollution-free areas in

stock herding.

Korea. As such, the Hampyeong-

The butterfly festival offers end-

cheon Stream is home to moraemuji Summer 2004 I Koreana 77

The Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok was cast in the mideighth century, during the golden age of Unified Silla art and culture. Its glorious sound and elegant surface adornment make this a truly masterful work of artisanship. Kang U-bang I Visiting Professor of Art History, Ewha Womans University Shu Jai-sik I Photographer

nyone who has seen the classic film The Hunchback of Notre

Dame is familiar with the scene of Anthony Quinn ringing the bells hung high in the steeple of the cathedral. Western-style bells, which have a clapper inside, are rung by swinging either the clap-

per or the bell itself so that they strike against each other. Bells are rung to indicate the time of day or to summon the residents. And as such, they serve as a functional device. Korean bells, on the other hand, which originated from the ancient Chinese bell sets used in religious rituals, were transformed into a Buddhist-related instrument. They are designed to be struck from the outside with a heavy wooden beam, and are suspended just above the ground.

Secrets of its Glorious Sound Chinese temple bells were designed to be functional, unrelated to the country's traditional musical instruments. In contrast, Koreans adopted the ancient Chinese bell set, and because the bell was regarded as a musical instrument, every effort was made to have it produce the most beautiful sound possible. They built pavilions in which to hang their bells close to the ground; hollowed out the earth below the bell into a hemispherical cavity; maximized the ellipsoid chamber inside the bell, where the sound is produced; and added a sound pipe to the top of the bell, which was connected to the interior like a chimney. The sound pipe is a unique Silla innovation that dampens unwanted reverberation when the bell is struck. A Western-style bell is shaped like a morning glory flower in full bloom, but a Korean bell resembles a flower bud that is just starting to blossom. The top and bottom portions curve gently inward, for retaining and then gradually releasing the reverberation. As a result, the sound waves 1ipple outward over an extended period. The swelling and subsiding of undulating resonance produces a resplendent tone as waves of sound are dispersed over a large area. As the initial powerful burst of sound gradually subsides, so too does the heart of a listener calm down and become tranquil. The fact that the interior surface of the bell is noticeably more curved than the exterior, and that the bell's thickness varies from top to bottom, apparently contribute to its magnificent sound. The bells in a Chinese bell set range in height from 30 centimeters to 100 centimeters. During the Silla era, Korean artisans retained the basic shape of these instruments while transforming them into Buddhism-related bells. The Delicate relief decorations adorn the surface of the Sacred Bell.

Silla craftsmen designed the hook at the top of the bell in the shape of a symSummer 2004 I Koreana

metrical two-headed dragon. The geometrical figures and stylized animal motifs applied to the surface of the bells were later changed to designs of heavenly maidens holding incense burners or playing musical instruments, while the top and bottom borders are exquisitely decorated with flowers and leaves attached to sprawling vines. The overall contours are elegant and dynamic, the surface decoration bold and exuberant. China and Japan are also well endowed with temple bells, but none features the artistic workmanship of a Silla bell.

Seeking the Sound of Truth The Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok (National Treasure No. 29) is the most magnificent of all Korean bells. King Gyeongdeok (r. 742-765) commissioned the creation of such a bell to honor the noteworthy accomplishments of his

To the people of Silla, the

father, King Seongdeok (r. 702-737), but despite several attempts, he was unable

sound of a sacred bell

to realize its completion in his lifetime. After some 20 years of trial and error, his son, King Hyegong (r. 765-780), finally completed the bell in 771, at

symbolized the teaching

Bongdeoksa Temple within the royal palace. It was also around this time that

of Buddha and the voice

Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto made their grand appearance at Mt.

of absolute truth. While

Tohamsan.

being enraptured by the

Why, then, did the Silla people go to these extremes to produce so exceptional a bell with such a powerful sound? A lengthy inscription engraved on the

sound of a sacred bell,

bell, comprising about 1,000 Chinese characters, provides the reasons for its

they earnestly sought to

creation and the names of all the patrons and artisans who contributed to this

attain the ultimate state

undertaking. At the beginning of the inscription is a statement that explains the

of enlightenment.

main purpose for making the bell: "Since the sound made by striking the bell is the voice of the absolute truth that pervades the universe, all living things that hear it might become enlightened." The inscription also states that, since the bell was made possible through the combined strength of sin, or "sacred," and human effo1t, it is thus a sinjong, or "sacred bell." Hearing the words of a saint or the sound of flowing water, or seeing gently falling leaves can suddenly enlighten people. To fall in love or part from someone can be enlightening as well and enhance spiritual maturity. But what Buddhists seek is total enlightenment, an ultimate state of enlightenment beyond all comparison. When people attain this blissful enlightenment, they are emancipated, thereby entering a state of true freedom and harmony. It was in the hope of emancipating all living creatures through the pure sound of a bell that the people of Silla dedicated themselves to the creation of this "sacred bell." Thus, the sound of the bell symbolizes the voice of Buddha preaching the absolute truth, while the bell that produces this sound is regarded as the sacred body of Buddha. Because the lotus grows in water, the source of all life and regeneration, it is a symbol of the root of all creation. Buddha himself is invariably seen as being born from a lotus or seated atop a lotus while preaching. The bell features 80

Koreana I Summer 2004

a specific striking point, upon which a large lotus is inscribed. When the lotus is struck, the sound 1ings out. In other words, in keeping with this Buddhist belief, the sound of absolute truth originates from the lotus.

Revered Object of Worship Is there another bell in all the world that harbors so much spiritual hope? It was because of this noble hope that the bell could finally be completed. The sound of ultimate truth must be as forceful as the roar of a lion and with the clarity of the call of the Kalavinka, a legendary bird mentioned in .Buddhist scriptures that is said to sing melodiously. And for this reason, the Silla artisans included the sound pipe, unknown in other countries, and designed the bell to maximize the reach of its sound, as far and wide as possible. Indeed, when the bell is stluck at dawn, it can be heard up to 100 ri (40 kilometers) away. Was the bell produced to spread its sound of truth over the entire world? This bronze bell stands 366 centimeters in height and weighs When struck at dawn, the sound of this 20-ton bell can be heard up to 40 kilometers away.

over 20 tons. To produce such a resonant sound, a bell must be heavy, but it is no easy task to create such a large and heavy bell yet so exquisite in appearance and resplendent in tone. The secrets of its production process have yet to be fully revealed even by modem-day science. A glorious sound emanates from a gorgeous form. That is why so much effort went into the appearance of the bell. As the holy body of Buddha, the bell's appearance must be suitably impressive, like a majestic mountain. This also explains the bold and exquisite surface decorations of vines, lotus blossoms, and heavenly maidens, in addition to the dragon hook at the top. Of particular note, the dragon that encircles the sound pipe is undoubtedly one of the most impressive dragon sculptures in the world. Because the sound of the bell represents the sound of ultimate truth, and the bell that produces that sound is a sacred body, the bell naturally became a revered object of worship. Buddha statues were not the only objects of veneration. Human history yields no other example of a bell being so venerated as an object of religious worship. To sustain this tradition, the bell is still struck in the hope of enlightening all living creatures and redeeming those that suffer from their wrongdoing. (...1 Summer 2004 I Koreana 81

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Fragment of Wall Painting 39 x 25cm, 9th century

Fragment of Wall Painting, Ten Thousand Buddhas Motif 27.6 x 40.6cm, 9th centu ry

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• ART REVIEW

Cultural Exchange along the Silk Road

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From December 16, 2003 through February 29, 2004, the National Museum of Korea presented an exhibition of its diverse artifacts and relics from the Central Asian region, entitled "Arts of Central Asia." Hur Young-hwan I Cultural Properties Specialist

82 Koreana I Summer 2004

-•·

•

Tile with Lotus Decoration 31.5 x 31 .5cm, 8th century

•

Banner with Bodhisattva Image

Torso of Devata

25.2 x 191 .5cm, 10th century

19cm high x 17cm wide, 6th-7th century

•

Image of Sera pis 15cm high x 8.5cm w ide, 2nd-3rd century

•

rom ancient times, East-

For example, it was along the

housed at the National Museum of

West cultural exchange

Steppe Route that the Korean penin-

Korea when Japanese explorer Otani

has occurred along three

sula acquired the roots of its Altaic

Kozui (1876-1948) donated his per-

main routes: the Steppe

language and metalworking culture,

sonal collection to the museum.

Route through Siberia, the Silk Road

while the Silk Road and Maritime

Thanks to this priceless collec-

through Central Asia, and the

Route had continued to serve as con-

tion, it has been possible to investi-

Maritime Route across the Indian

duits for cultural exchange between

gate the origins of East-West cultural

Ocean. Through these routes, coun-

Korea and various Islamic countries

exchange, the similarities and differ-

tries from the East, in particular

up through modem times. In an unex-

ences between relics of the ancient

China, Korea, and Japan, engaged in

pected windfall, in 1916, an exten-

Silla Kingdom with those from

cultural interaction with the West,

sive collection of articles excavated

Central Asia, the areas that Silla trav-

including Greece, Rome, and the

or acquired from Central Asia (1 ,700

elers visited in Central Asia, and the

Islamic world.

items of 500 types) came to be

extent to which Korean art, clothing, Summer 2004 I Koreana

•..............

• Bird-Headed Jug 27cm high, 7th-8th century

•

Vase Decorated

with Applique 14cm high 3th-5th century

•

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language, food, and history has been

Principal Exhibits

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•

Tang Dynasties; Central Asia is the

influenced by Central Asia. These

The 462 items on display at the

research efforts led to the formation

exhibition could be broadly grouped

and the Silk Road is the trade route

of the Korean Association for Central

into those associated with religious

along the northern and southern areas

Asian Studies. The National Museum

culture, everyday life, and burial cus-

of the Takla Makan Desert.

of Korea has presented two special

toms.

area between Europe and East Asia;

The more noteworthy relics related to religious culture included

exhibitions, of which the second,

In common usage, the terms

held from December 16, 2003 to

"Western Region art," "Central Asian

the following:

February 29, 2004, was more exten-

art," and "Silk Road art" might be

1) Fragments of Wall Painting Scenes

sive and better attended. Shown in an

used interchangeably. However, more

from Jataka. 7th century, 39 x 25cm.

ample display area of 437 square

technically speaking, the Western

Excavated from Cave No. 206 at

meters, the exhibition attracted some

Region is the area beyond China's

Kijil, Kucha, the painting depicts the

240,000 visitors.

western boundary during the Han and

King's virtuous act similar to

84 Koreana I Summer 2004

•

• Shoes 26.5cm long x 14.2cm high x 11.2cm w ide,

Tile Mould with Immortal Images 21 x 20cm, 10th-11th century

•

• Wooden Case 11.5cm high x 11.3cm wide, 6th-7th century ---

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-·-II-·-·-

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--·-··-·--II

Sakyamuni's virtuous act of trans-

images in Chinese ink against a yel-

sion and unadorned form.

forming himself into a large fish to

low background. This is an extremely

6) Tile with Lotus Decoration 8th cen-

enable the starving masses to feed on

rare Buddhist painting.

his body.

4) Image of Serapis 2nd-3rd century,

tury, 31.5 x 31.5cm. This ceramic tile from the Toyuk Cave Temple in

2) Fragment of Wall Painting Ten

Thousand Buddhas. 9th century, 40.6

15cm high X 8.5cm wide. Excavated at Khotan, this Greek-style ceramic

x 27.6cm. This fragment of a mural

figurine provides a glimpse of

painting was recovered from Cave

Hellenistic culture.

No. 4 at Yarkho, Turfan.

5) Torso of Devata 6th-7th century,

equally diverse and worthy of note.

3) Banner with Bodhisattva Images

43cm high x 21cm wide. This large,

Some of the more significant exam-

10th century, 191.5 x 25.2cm. Originally from Dunhuang, this ban-

beautifully colored clay statuette,

ples included the following:

which was recovered from Murtuk in

1) Vase Decorated with Applique 3rd-

ner portrays two standing Bodhisattva

Turpan, features a benevolent expres-

5th century, 14cm high. Excavated at

Turpan is impressive for its perfect form and beautiful design. The relics of everyday life were

Summer 2004 I Koreana 85

•

Painted Bowl 14cm high x 29.2cm diameter 6th-7th century

Painting of Fu-Xi and Nu-Wa 79 x 189cm, 7th century

•

•----

Khotan, this earthenware vessel

flat tiles, shows clear influences of

burial customs featured the following

includes

China's Han and Tang dynasties in its

artifacts:

attached on both sides, and is thus

size and decoration.

1) Painting of Fu-Xi and Nu-Wa 7th

known as a "vase with two ears."

4) Wooden Case 6th-7th century, 11.5

2) Bird-headed Jug 7th-8th century,

27cm high. This large ceramic jug

11.5cm. This small wooden box, excavated at Astana Tomb in Turfan,

century, 189 x 79cm. This large-size painting, excavated at Astana Tomb

was excavated at Karahoja Tomb in

is thought to have been used for stor-

about the world's creation.

Turfan. There are also metal and

ing cosmetics.

2) Epitaph Tablet A.D. 582, 35.5 x

glass versions of this work.

5) Shoes 6th-7th century, 26.5cm long

35.5cm. Excavated at Karahoja Tomb

3) Tile Mold with Immortal Images

x 14.2cm high x 11.2cm wide.

in Turfan, this ceramic marker indi-

10th-11th century, 21cm square.

Leather adult shoes excavated at

cates the name and position of the

Excavated at Kumtra, Kucha, this

Astana Tomb in Turfan.

person buried in the tomb, and the

symmetrical

handles

mold, which was used to make large, 86 Koreana I Summer 2004

The selection of items related to

in Turfan, depicts a Chinese legend

date of death.

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• "Arts of Central Asia" was• an especially meaningful •

•

exhibition in that it provided a vivid account of EastWest cultural exchange and the influences of Central Asian culture on Korea.

•

Epitaph Tablet 35.5 x 35.5cm A.D. 582

Masks 7.5cm high x 5.6cm wide (left) 8.4cm high x 5.2cm wide (right) Bronze Age

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•--·----I

3) Painted Bowl 6th-7th century,

leather and wood was excavated at

received his doctorate in Germany

14cm high x 29.2cm in diameter.

Loulan.

with a dissertation on Central Asian art. Originally, the group was known

Many similar bowls have been found in tombs alongside the corpse. This example was excavated at Astana Tomb in Turfan. 4) Lady on a Horse 7th-8th century,

Korean Association for Central Asian Studies The Korean Association for

as the Central Asian Research Society, but in 1996 it developed into a specialist academic association.

Central Asian Studies currently has

Professor Kwon, a master of

38.5cm high x 29cm wide. Excavated

80 members, half with doctoral

English, Chinese, French, and

at Turfan, this exquisitely colored

degrees and the remainder with mas-

German as well as his native Korean,

statuette is of a Tang Dynasty

ter's degrees. It was founded in 1993

shares the leadership of the group

woman.

by Professor Kwon Young-pil

with its current president, Professor

5) Masks Bronze Age, 8cm high x

(Professor of Fine Arts, The Korean

Kim Ho-dong (Professor of Asian

5.6cm wide. This small mask of

National University of Arts), who

History, Seoul National University), a Summer 2004 I Koreana

•

Manichaeanism coexisted with Buddhism in Central Asia, where the two religions infuenced each other. 1. Sangim Aghyz Cave Temple 2. Manichaean mural of Sangim Aghyz Cave Temple. 3. The 38th mural, which reveals clear signs of Manichaeanism, from Bezeklik Cave Temple, a Buddhist holy site.

•

• historian well-versed in the vernacu-

impressive exhibition at the National

three research monographs, three

lar languages of Central Asia. Dr.

Museum of Korea.

papers, a bibliography, illustrations

Min Byung-hoon, a researcher at the

For the exhibition, the museum

with captions, a historical map of

National Museum of Korea, handles

staff relied heavily on the expertise

Central Asia, and a related chronolo-

the administrative matters. The

that leading members of the associa-

gy. In addition, some 100 volunteers

Korean Association for Central Asian

tion generously provided. Assistance

were on hand at the exhibition areas

Studies conducts annual field trips

was also received from four Chinese

to provide detailed information to

and publishes research papers, con-

organizations, France's Musee

visitors, helping to make this an

ference proceedings, monographs,

Guimet, and Japan's Tokai University

event in which Korea could be truly

and related reports. Thanks to its finn

Information Technology Center.

prideful. l;t

foundation, the association has been

In conjunction with the exhibi-

able to develop to such an extent that

tion, the National Museum of Korea

it could help to organize such an

released a publication that comprised

88 Koreana I Summer 2004

Summer 2004 I Koreana

The Scars of War and Difficulty of Overcoming Them The creative source of Lee Dong-ha's literary world is the experiences of war during his childhood. The scars that war can leave on individuals and the difficulty of overcoming them are a recurring theme of Lee's works. Seo Jun-seop I Professor of Korean Language Education, Kangwon National University

unger, poverty, the weariness of everyday

This and A Toy City (1982) are considered his best works.

life, and violence that threatens the well-

The lead character is a university student who, when with

being of the individual and family are central

his friends, ardently discusses literature, life and love, but

motifs in the novels of Lee Dong-ha (b.

as feelings of depression continue to mount, he leaves

1942). Lee belongs to a generation who was born during

Seoul behind and returns to his hometown in the country.

the period of Japanese colonial rule (1910-1945) and then

But back home he is faced with painful memories;

spent their childhood enduring the hardships and pain of

recollections of his happy childhood spent with his family,

the Korean War (1950-1953) and its aftermath. It is worth

and the friends with whom he played in his school days

noting that his first short story, "War and the Squirrel"

seem to be fading, like old black-and-white photographs.

(1966), is about a girl who has been emotionally scarred

The fathers of two very close friends, one a landlord, and

by the war.

the other a tenant farmer, end up fighting each other during

In his first novel, Melancholy Homecoming (1967),

the Korean War and are now both dead; his two friends are

which describes the inner world of a youth who suffers

gone as well. The student's life after the war is always

from a life of misery in the city, constantly confused and

marked by unease, like a thick fog, while the essence of

wandering aimlessly, Lee reflects upon the consequences

life remains hidden behind an opaque veil. This work rec-

of horrible memories of war. The horrors of war depicted

ognizes war as being the origin of depression that can

in his writings are based on his real-life childhood experi-

weigh heavily on the present. By exploring his memories,

ences. And of particular concern are the scars that war can

the student is able to reconfirm his true self, such that the

leave on individuals and just how difficult it can be to

novel is a kind of self-portrait of a literary student who

overcome them. For Lee, writing novels is a means of

dreams of starting life anew.

delving into such questions as "Who am I in real life?" and thoughts related to the issues of self-identity.

Following this work, Lee wrote short stories and novels about the underside of life in the urban city as seen

Melancholy Home coming is not only Lee's first

through the eyes of an ordinary wage earner. These failed

novel, but also the work that launched his literary career.

to attract much interest, however. Thereafter, A Toy City

Koreana I Summer 2004

(1982), which illuminates memories of war in a new form,

themes. It reveals the author's literary approach of pursu-

enabled Lee to enjoy a professional comeback. This three-

ing personal truth by facing up to his tragic memories.

part serial novel is based on the author's dark childhood

Lee's 1995 work, Cruel Tongue, explores the violence

memories of living in a refugee camp in Daegu. Life in

perpetrated by the authorities in regard to "mysterious

this camp is described as a hellish experience: there are

deaths" that occurred during the repressive authoritarian

rows of crudely built wooden structures, like toy houses,

regime of the early 1980s. In this novel, the author tells of

where countless people struggle desperately to survive,

the poignant struggle of a family that seeks to reveal the

one day at a time. In a tiny room, members of a family live

truth about the law-enforcement authorities who are

cramped together, facing the challenges of enduring

involved in a cover-up. The novel is not so much about

hunger and cold. The parents roam the streets in search of

politics but a denunciation of authoritarian "violence,"

ways to earn money, while the children go from house to

from a perspective of powerless citizens, and as such is a

house begging for food or hang around the market areas

sort of investigative report.

picking up discarded food scraps. In this way, this work

Of all the many forms of violence, it is the horror of

vividly recounts the wretched existence of wartime

war experienced during childhood that provides the cre-

refugees from a child's perspective.

ative force underlying Lee's novels and short stories. The

The father starts to collect and sell junk, but is one

scars of war and the process of overcoming them is a cen-

day accused of dealing in stolen goods and sent to jail. The

tral theme of Lee's literary creations, though his scope is

pregnant mother does not know what has happened and

broadened to include issues of violence in various works.

slowly wastes away from malnutrition. The mother's

This reveals the author's efforts to pursue the truth about

death, "that seemed to be the end of the world," is suppos-

his own life through literature, while also uncovering his

edly based on the actual experiences of Lee's family.

particular approach of seeking to reconcile himself with

In particular, this novel graphically describes the struggles of refugees during the war and has thus assumed a special place among the works with Korean War-related

reality.

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Fellowship Program Dept. TEL (+82-2)3463-5614 FAX (+82-2)3463-6075 E-mail: fellow@kf.or.kr All application forms and guidelines are available on-line. The Publication Subsidy and Instructional Materials programs receive applications twice a year.

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