February 2017 by The Vital Voice Magazine

Rebel Yell Bourbon Presents:

ST. LOUIS MEN’S DESIGNER SHOWCASE

THURSDAY FEB 16

s ’ t e e r c u a s c e h t n e i S

RUNWAY SHOW

Mungenast Lexus St. Louis on Manchester Road FRIDAY FEB 17

MEN’S DESIGNER POP-UP SHOP Gamlin Whiskey House in Central West End SATURDAY FEB 18

BARBER BATTLE

The Ready Room in The Grove

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT

Who gets the last bite? Oops, too late. That’s what happens when this level of culinary wizardry is right in your own backyard. From Palermo to Puerto Rico, the globe is well represented, as is our homegrown comfort food, from flash-fried spinach to fried green tomatoes. Find out why The Advocate called us “…the LGBT beacon of the Midwest.”

BrainChildEvents.com Proceeds to benefit the Stevens - Institute of Business & Arts Scholarship Fund

Check out our impressive packages at explorestlouis.com/LGBT

February 2017

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FEBRUARY 2017

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The FOOD issue IMPRESSUM 6

Masthead

publishers' letter

NIGHTLIFE 8 11 12

FIRST SIP

Ara spa at ameristar st. charles

PLAYDATES drinkable decadence

PROFILES 16

Lunch with lyda lyda krewson

hiro's bernie lee nine things to know

DOORWAYS

“The Producers + Spamalot + The Book of Mormon. Squared!” –New York Magazine

PHOTO BY JOAN MARCUS, ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER DESEVE

food for the soul

22.

The gamlin brothers Restaurateurs Derek and Lucas Gamlin develop a dining destination in the Central West End with the addition of their newest space, 1764.

LIFE GUIDE 28

A 2017 DINING GUIDE

style 31

314-534-1111 • MetroTix.com 6

February 2017

Gent! 2017 men's designer showcase

entertainment 35

The Fox Theatre • February 7-19

DESTINATION DELICIOUS

bastille crew mardi gras 2017

fare intentions sidney street cafe

her time to dine suzanne corbett

scene

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publishers' letter

CEO & partner • Darin Slyman dsly@thevitalvoice.com Publisher & Partner • Jimmy Lesch jimmy@thevitalvoice.com MANAGING EDITOR • Kevin Schmidt Kevin@thevitalvoice.com Graphic DEsigner • AUDREY SCHERER audrey@thevitalvoice.com Contributor • Karla Templleton karlatempleton1213@gmail.com Contributor • Kaleigh jurgensmeyer kmjurgensmeyer@gmail.com Contributor • Tyler Bierman tb6809@gmail.com Contributor • JILl FiRNS

WELCOME

Jillianfirns31@gmail.com Contributors art: Darin Slyman, steve truesdell mark moore, AUDREY SCHERER kevin schmidt, tyler bierman

5pm and 9pm

Courtesy of: DOORWAYS, Hiro Asian Kitchen Pinnacle entertainment, brainchild events TEXT: Kevin Schmidt, KALEIGH JURGENSMEYER Tyler Bierman, Karla templeton, jill firns brandon evans, curtis galloway Design: AUDREY SCHERER, stephanie schroeder Online

cheapest hurricanes in the grove

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4579 Laclede Ave #268

[ with hurricane purchase ]

february 25 , 2017 th

4054 chouteau ave., st. louis mo, 63110 314.652.3700 | www.rehabstl.com facebook.com/rehabstl

Contact Vital VOICE Magazine St. Louis, MO 63108 vv@thevitalvoice.com 314.256.1196

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We’ve cooked up features on food, fashion and, as always, something fabulous for you just in time for Valentine’s Day! Welcome to Vital VOICE’s Food Issue. St. Louis cover boys Derek and Lucas Gamlin are no strangers to the restaurant industry. They are the creative sibling duo behind Sub Zero Vodka Bar and Gamlin Whiskey House. This spring, they again create an exciting new destination for the Central West End, humbly titled 1764. Interesting name, correct? It just so happens to be the year that St. Louis was founded. The city is abuzz about this new venture and looks forward to the creative cocktails and culinary cuisine. February also ushers in the third installment of Gent!, a men’s style weekend produced by Dwight Carter of Brainchild Events. This year’s expanded exposition is complete with a runway show, pop up shop and a barber battle. Vital VOICE is pleased to co-present this with Rebel Yell Kentucky Bourbon. Gent! runs February 16-18. Save your front row seat at brainchildevents.com What is your favorite burger in the city? The Vital VOICE team all came to the same conclusion: Rehab Bar and Grill. Whatever they do to those burgers will make you run to their dollar burger night. Being one of our city’s top LGBT destinations doesn’t hurt either.

Soulard’s Bastille is the place to be for Mardi Gras: Read all about this LGBT high holy holiday and its history by local glitterati Karla Templeton. You can always find former Vital VOICE writer Chris Andoe - aka The Emperor of St. Louis - holding court and tossing out beads across from the Bastille during the festivities. Finally, a beginning and an ending are featured in Scene in the City. The St. Louis Blues held the first ever Pride Night at Scottrade Center, ringing in a new level of acceptance and diversity. Our community says goodbye to GlitterBomb Production’s creators Siren and Pinko. They have been a staple of our community for entertainment and fun over the years. Time has come for their next chapter in New Orleans. Until next month,

Darin Slyman CEO/Partner

Jimmy Lesch Publisher/Partner

Looking for a great place to impress your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day? We suggest checking out all the sweet liquid treats at Bailey’s Chocolate Bar to end your romantic evening. Writer Tyler Bierman leads you through some of his favorites in this month’s feature.

400+ Points of Distribution throughout the St. Louis and Kansas City area

February 2017

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NIGHTLIFE

FIRST SIP

rebel yell brooklyn Most people have heard of the Manhattan – but how about it’s neighbor to the east – The Brooklyn. A little spicy, a little more bold, but equally as delicious - this classic cocktail uses Rye in place of bourbon to create the namesake drink of the borough.

MAKE IT Glass: Chilled cocktail glass

Ingredients: ¾ oz. rosso vermouth 1 oz. rye whiskey 2-3 dashes maraschino liqueur Garnish: Maraschino cherry Recipe: Stir well in a mixing glass filled with ice cubes. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and serve. TEXT: KEVIN SCHMIDT ART: courtesy of Luxco

February 2017

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NIGHTLIFE

Playdates

doorways red gala: shaken not stirred

4th

The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis - doorwayshousing.org

Her Majesty’s Secret Service invites you to DOORWAYS annual gala, Shaken Not Stirred 2017, a night of fun, dancing and cocktails to support. The RED gala provides #HousingHealthHope to more than 2,500 men, women and children affected by HIV/AIDS in Missouri and Illinois. Through direct service delivery and the efforts of identified program partners, DOORWAYS’ programs and services benefit those who need it the most, regardless of age, color, creed, physical or mental disability, ethnicity, familial status, gender identity and expression, national origin, race, religion, pregnancy, sex or sexual orientation. Support this wonderful cause at this wonderful event, cochaired by Christine Pennell and Richard Pennell, M.D. and Mary and Steve Schoolman. Patron reservations include a VIP reception, cocktail reception, preferred seating, dinner, program listing, event recognition and valet parking.

Powell Hall - stlsymphony.com St. Louis’ very own Grammy Award-winning rapper, singer and songwriter joins the STL Symphony for a concert experience unlike anything you’ve seen before. .

Something Rotten!

Fabulous Fox - fabulousfox.com With its heart on its ruffled sleeve and sequins in its soul, Something Rotten! is an original dose of pure Broadway fun and an irresistible ode to musicals.

gent! men's deSigner showcase

mardi gras grand parade

Qu'art presents: queeriosity

16th-18th

25th

NELLY AT THE ST. LOUIS SYMPHONY

City wide - brainchildevents.com The St. Louis men’s designer showcase is a weekend of style, featuring the annual runway show as well as a Barbershop Battle and Designer Pop-up Shop.

February 2017

7th-19th

11th Dada ball & bash 2017

3rd

Soulard - stlmardigras.org The parade is the Midwest’s largest and most spectacular pre-Lenten celebration, starting at Busch Stadium and ending in Soulard at the Anheuser-Busch Brewery.

Contemporary Art Museum - camstl.org CAM St. Louis invites you to the 2017 Dada Ball & Bash: an evening to stand out from the norm with inventive cocktails, fanciful dining, and eccentric entertainment.

The Crack Fox - crackfoxbar.com Art, politics and entertainment collide in this one of a kind event, where a variety of self-identifying queer artists showcase their work and promote diversity.

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NIGHTLIFE

at bailey's chocolate Bar

text tyler bierman art tyler bierman

Let me spin you a yarn about a really sad fellow. He was out to his favorite local eatery and just like that, had finished up a wonderful meal and was feeling quite fat. The waiter swung around to top off his drink and asked him in his most curious, yet courteous tone, “Did you save room for dessert?” His heart sank like a stone. “Oh my, oh no!” He hadn't saved any room and therefore couldn't possibly enjoy a cookie or a candy, a cake or a pie, a pudding or a parfait, or even a single scoop of ice cream. What was our desperate hero to do? And scene. We've all been there, right? It's a conundrum that has puzzled dinner guests for practically as long as there has been dinner. What can you order for dessert when your sweet tooth is more persuasive than your full stomach? We believe our friends at Baileys' Chocolate Bar have come up with the perfect solution, and it comes in the form of decadent, chocolaty cocktails and mixed drinks. Here are a few of our favorites along with the dessert craving that matches them.V Rocky Road to Dublin

Young Grasshopper

It's the perfect blend of homemade chocolate ice cream and Jameson Irish Whiskey, topped off with crushed candied almonds on the rim and a huge, torch-roasted marshmallow on top. The texture is complemented by the earthy crunch of the almonds. As for that perfectly roasted marshmallow, we love to just forget people are watching and shove the whole thing in our mouths, but it's just as fun to dip and nibble at it.

A bit of a throwback, this frosty drink is inspired by a grasshopper pie. Remember those? The Young Grasshopper is made with homemade green tea ice cream, Cream de Menthe and Cream de Cacao, a housemade whip cream and two chocolate straws—one crushed and the other whole for sipping with. It's minty, it's green and it's wonderfully nostalgic. It's the perfect dessert substitution for anybody that loves a good grasshopper pie.

Cinnamon Stout Shake “But what about the beer aficionados,” I hear you wondering. Well, wonder no more because we've got the perfect liquid dessert for you. This is the Cinnamon Stout Shake, and it's made with Perennial Artisan Ales' signature chocolate stout, homemade cinnamon ice cream, and that's it. It taste's a little bit like a beer and a little bit like a milkshake. So if those two treats are your jam, this is the liquid dessert for you.

White Chocolate Raspberry Martini Here's a drink that screams romantic, Valentine's Day date. It's simply raspberry liqueur, white chocolate ice cream and Bailey’s homemade chocolate vodka. They top it with a swirl of heart designs made out of raspberry puree. It's adorable. It's a very sweet drink that's perfect for those that aren't in the mood for something covered in chocolate. If you're sad that you're too full to order that raspberry cheesecake, this martini is the way to go.

you've got beef: Rehab bar & grill

text kevin schmidt art darin slyman

It’s midnight. You’re a little sweaty. You’re a little tired. And you’re a little tipsy. Okay, you’re actually inebriated. You know that you need to get something in your stomach to make it to brunch the next morning with your squad, but your dining options are less than expansive. White Castle? More like diarrhea dungeon. Taco Bell? If you’re into toxic smells. You need something substantiating, satisfying and scrumptious. You may not think of a gay bar as a dining destination, but we simply can’t enough of Rehab’s burger. “While it’s good both day or night, it’s really good when you’re hungover for breakfast, lunch or both,” Akasha Royale, resident Diva of The Grove, says. “I take mine with provolone, barbecue and bacon, if anyone’s offering.” Rehab Bar and Grill offers a ‘Build Your Own Burger’ on their daily menu. A single starts at $7, or you can easily upgrade to the double for $9. It’s served with mayo, ketchup, mustard, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, onions and a side of fries. For a slight surcharge, you can add extra treats like barbecue sauce, grilled onions and jalapeños, bacon, and American, cheddar, pepper jack, provolone or Swiss cheese. The kitchen at Rehab is open everyday of the week. Grab a burger Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday from 11 a.m. until 1 a.m. The grill fires up at noon on Saturdays and goes until 1 a.m. Finally, get your fix on Sundays from noon – 9 p.m. “It’s made with love,” Jay Fortune, Rehab cook, says as to why his burgers are so special. “It’s your greasy, hearty burger. We sell a good 10-15 burgers on a given lunch.” And as for our delicious model? Kyle Hanton, Rehab coowner, likes his with cheddar and bacon, onion rings and barbecue sauce. “It’s nice to eat before the shift because it keeps you going all night." Whether you’re grabbing it for lunch or a hangover brunch, pre-gaming before a long night or sobering up before you pass out, this burger is damn good. In the words of one Rehab regular, “It’s juicy, it’s thick, and it’s great with pepper jack cheese.” Enough said. Check it out for yourself at Rehab Bar and Grill in The Grove. V

February 2017

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NIGHTLIFE

Open through May 7 For ticket information, visit slam.org/degas. Members always free. Everyone free on Friday.

Open Tuesday–Sunday One Fine Arts Drive, Forest Park

#SLAMdegas

: a p S a Ar r o s n e AS

This Exhibition is organized by the Saint Louis Art Museum and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Presented by:

Edgar Degas, French, 1834-1917; Self-Portrait in the Soft Hat, 1857; oil on paper mounted on canvas; 10 ¼ x 7 ½ inches; Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts, USA

e c n e i r y Ex pe I’m so uptight. I need to relax. I had a bad day. I feel disgusting. The list goes on for why anyone would want – or just need – a spa day. For myself, along with Vital VOICE publishers Darin Slyman and Jimmy Lesch, it was a belated birthday present for Darin, and it was worth the wait. No matter what kind of mood you are in or what’s on your mind, you enter into an alternate reality when you step inside Ara Spa at Ameristar St. Charles.

text kevin schmidt art courtesy of pinnacle entertainment

Ara Luxury Spa is an easy escape to make, just right across the Missouri River in downtown St. Charles. It features a captivating a 7,000 square foot design, innovative spa experiences, state-of the-art fitness center, spa boutique and star quality service. You can make an entire day of it, or you can make it a “pit stop” destination in between gambling sessions. We decided to take our time and take it all in. Of course, massages were on the agenda, but it’s so much more than just that. In addition to our respective 50-minute sessions, we were able to unwind in the hot tubs, saunas, relaxation lounge, even in the hotel’s pool area. Now my last massage experience was, well, brutal. We all have knots in our backs, but the pressure was too much and simply nauseating. Luckily, they listened when I said “I don’t like it rough.” The experience was a 50-minute uninterrupted intermission from reality. Literally. I mean, Donald Trump could, say, be elected President and I wouldn’t have even cared. It was that good.

SSION

CORY SEVER AY CR CRIM DOLLA AN DJ BOOGIEM 16

February 2017

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 11 CAMSTL.ORG/DADABASH

“The Ara Spa really ties together a total sensory experience with their aroma fusion massage treatment, which allows you to select from an array of botanical blends to create your own unique scent-sory experience,” Jimmy says. “The customized massage experience dissolves stress, tames tension and re-energizes. Whether you’re seeking a deeper focus or are just in need of some soul soothing.” “It’s really more than just a massage,” Darin explains. “When you arrive, a locker with a robe, slippers and fresh towels awaits. We were able to enjoy the hydro-pool and Swiss shower to stimulate

circulation and provide relief from muscle tension. Afterwards a steam room and dry sauna await to continue the relaxation. It’s the total spa experience.” “I love a good bottle of champagne,” Jimmy laughs. “Ara’s champagne and chocolate covered strawberries were to die for. You can always tell when chocolate covered strawberries have been freshly made and trust me, these were. Treat yourself to some sparkling sweetness before your massage and you’ll find yourself in just the right state of mind for a fantastic massage.” At Vital VOICE, we enjoy a little luxury every now and then. We also know good taste and can tell when someone or something is just phony. The escape to Ara Spa was the perfect way to luxuriously celebrate in the most casual of ways. Whether you need a day for yourself, alone time with a lover or an escape with the squad, Ara Spa makes it happen for you. V thevitalVOICE.com

LunchLyda: with

Chatting and Chewing with St. Louis’ Leading Mayoral Candidate

profiles

text kevin schmidt art darin slyman

“C'mon Lyda, it’s just lunch.” Actually, there was no convincing leading St. Louis mayoral candidate, Lyda Kewson, to have lunch with us on a not-so-surprisingly warm January afternoon. She arrived early, mingled with her constituents, and greeted us with an even warmer welcome. Our server took longer than anticipated to greet us, but she doesn’t mind; she dives right into the issues with not even a glass of water in her hand. She orders a citrus salad, but barely gets through half of it as to make sure that every point is properly addressed and detailed. She’s a woman on a mission: to move forward, and bring the entire city along with her. Moving forward means being progressive, and modernizing government is at the top of her list. “We’ve got to make strides with this,” she begins. “Making it easier to do business with city hall, whether it’s getting occupancy, business or building permits. We have a ways to go to where the private sector is in terms of how quickly it is for them to get information and do business. We also have to figure out how to combine departments and services, particularly with St. Louis County.

Cortex is a great example of how St. Louis can advance, and how this advancement not only benefits the central corridor, but it influences other revitalization projects citywide. “The National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency (NGA) toured Cortex several times before it committed to contracting its 1.7 billion dollar facility on the north side,” Lyda explains. “Having that technology and energy there with their development at Jefferson and Cass is a major plus in helping us redevelop North St. Louis, an important prospect for us. We have to do it right, and the NGA is that impetus for us.” Expansion of jobs, technology and business citywide increases the demand for access, not just on our roads but particularly in public transportation. Lyda explains that Metrolink, at this point and time, is not a robust system. “I’m very much in favor of North-South Metrolink, but frankly I am also in favor of better and increased bus service. Until you have a robust light-rail system, you have to have a way for people to get people to and from light rail and their jobs as well. And in regards to Metrolink, I would put in turnstiles tomorrow. They are important for the safety and security on the trains, stations and platforms.”

Oh, the city-county divide. Lyda, like any smart businesswoman or politician, notes of the hurt that it has caused the region for far too long. “In 1876 we got divorced. It’s time for us to get remarried,” she laughs. “We “Nationally, I think there is a movement probably need to get engaged first so back to cities, and I think people want to we can work through a lot of the issues. live in cities; the energy that comes with I feel like we are really at a tipping interacting with different people, point on this because we are realizing that this is something we have to do to not people who are exactly like us." be competitive as a region.” You and I both know that this is something that needs to be done for the region to advance. Just with any thriving metropolitan area, there is a thriving urban core, something that St. Louis lacks at the moment but slowly is turning around. “Density is key here,” she explains. “Nationally, I think there is a movement back to cities, and I think people want to live in cities; the energy that comes with interacting with different people, not people who are exactly like us. For the past five or ten years, we have been welcoming people in from St. Louis County. You’ve seen that movement, and everyone I’ve talked with is excited about it. Their daily activities are so much more on a human level in cities than in a suburban environment.” Economic development and jobs are naturally at the top of her list as well. She notes that looking at what we’ve achieved in the past ten or so years is a forecast of what can be accomplished in the next decade. “We’re St. Louisans, we’re humble. It’s kind of bad manners to brag,” she says. “But we need to think about what’s happened on South Grand, Old North, Cherokee Street, The Grove, even Hyde Park. Look at The Loop. We have a lot of good things going on, and we should be proud of that. And there’s Cortex, which has been one of the most transformative districts to pop up. Today, there are more than 5,000 people who work in that community with jobs that wouldn’t have even existed ten or so years ago.”

February 2017

Without hesitation, Lyda states that neighborhood safety is at the top of the list for the next mayor. “Part of that is increasing the number of police officers we have, paying them better, equipping them better and training them better in a modern way,” she says. After receiving the endorsement of the St. Louis Police Officers Association, she says, “I’m proud to stand with police, and I think that most people in our city are proud to stand with our police. They do a tough job.”

But an alderman from Central West End as mayor? How in touch is she really with the needs of residents in, say, Bellefontaine Neighbors or Dutchtown? Expectedly, she gets that question a lot. “The 28th Ward is one of the most diverse wards in the city,” Lyda responds. “We have some of the nicest housing, but we have moderate and mixed housing as well. Most importantly, I want to take the developments that we have done and accomplish them in other parts of the city.” Besides being an alderman, she’s chief financial officer of Peckham, Guyton, Albers & Viets, a large planning and architectural firm, with business experience that she plans on bringing with her to the mayor’s office. “That means talking with developers, making sure we use tax incentives wisely and judiciously to help other areas develop as well,” she says. “I’m a big proponent of planning, and I think a lot of neighborhoods in St. Louis could use some help in planning so that when a project does comes up, they can review their project in knowing what they want for their neighborhood.” The Primary Municipal Election for the city of St. Louis is set for Tuesday March 7, with the General Municipal Election on Tuesday, April 4. For more information on Lyda Krewson,visit lydakrewson.com V

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bernie lee Nine Things to Know

About the Man Behind Hiro

Bernie Lee thinks outside of the box when he plans the menu for his restaurant, Hiro Asian Kitchen. In his own words, “Food is like fashion: it’s everywhere.” As a destination for unique and authentic pan-Asian cuisine, Hiro thrives to be a link between Midwest minimalism and Eastern exoticism. Let’s face it, there’s P.F. Changs, and then there’s real Asian cuisine. His restaurant is an escape, a chance to learn, to be turned on, and to leave with palate for originality. Here are ten things you need to know about Hiro guru, Bernie Lee. He came to St. Louis “by mistake.”

It wasn’t so much a mistake as it was a last minute change of plans when he moved to the U.S. “I originally was going to go to Chicago, but I wanted to go to a place where there weren’t as many Asians.” It was a challenge at first for him, but he’s slowly winning the city over. “People have really opened up their taste buds and are willing to accept and take chances.”

He owned another venue, 609 Lounge.

Remember that spot? The long-lived Delmar Loop lounge was also the home of the original Hiro, when it was known for its sushi and modern izakaya cuisine. After closing in 2012, Bernie Lee opened as Hiro Asian Kitchen at its current location at 1405 Washington Ave.

He doesn't see competition

“Everyone is doing their own thing, so I wouldn’t use that word. But we are definitely not doing the American-Asian cuisine. We are focused on the traditional flavor profile presented in a modern way.”

Every dish tells a story.

“We try to explain to people the story of the dish, why it’s presented a certain way, why the flavor profile is the way it tastes. This year, we want to do a ‘tastes of Asia,’ where each month has a pop-up dinner based on a different country of a different region; one city only, one night only.”

He’ll turn you on text kevin schmidt art courtesy of hiro asian kitchen

February 2017

“We have four different chefs, everyone from a different background with different specialties and able to bring something unique to the table. The thing is that, especially in St. Louis, people stick with the comfort foods. St. Louisans accept new and different cuisines, as long as it is in their comfort level. I like comfort food, but I like people who take risks with their cuisine.”

It’s all about the presentation.

“We really provide something for everyone, and that’s where the modern presentation and approach comes in. For example, Asia does not do cream cheese; that’s not in our culture. But we have Lobster Rangoon, and it’s our number one seller. Asians don’t order that, but Americans love it. The clay pots and the ramen are other top sellers, and it’s all in the wording on menu and the dish that it is presented in. That’s what sells the dish.”

He travels to Asia for a month a year.

“I take four or five weeks off, and every trip I have my vision and my goal and I try and achieve it. Through research and friend connections that I have, I let the locals take us everywhere we need to go, showing me both new and old trends. Last trip I was in Japan, Taiwan, Thailand and Malaysia. This year, I am going to all of those and Australia too.

He returns with fresh ideas

“After departing Phuket last year, we drove through a lot of small towns, and you just stop when you see a lot of locals. That’s where I would get my food because where there is good food, you see people. My biggest inspiration I see when I travel is visiting the street foods, the street vendors, the small restaurants and the ‘mom and pop’ shops. Those foods have really important roles on my menus.”

He has the best ramen in the city.

“While ramen means ‘noodles’ in Japanese, noodles are a part of the entire Asian culture. Hiro’s ramen follows the more Chinese style. Our broth is a bit more clean, light and flavorful versus the miso base. We make it from scratch in house, and it takes eight to ten hours to make.” V

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‘I want you to be healthy, I want you to live and get out and be independent.’ They want to know someone cares and they want to feel needed, just like any of us do.”

DOORWAYS Food For the Soul Text kayleigh jrgensmeyer Art courtesy of Doorways

There’s a reason it’s called comfort food: it warms you up, makes you feel at home and gives you a sense of relief, contentment and security after a long day. Maybe it’s fluffy mashed potatoes smothered in rich, turkey gravy. Maybe it’s creamy macaroni and cheese, a tender pot roast, or crispy fried chicken. Whatever it is, you know that feeling. That feeling is something that Brenda Armour, Food Services Manager at DOORWAYS, strives to give to the people she serves every day. “Food means family, and I want to make sure people feel like family here,” she says. DOORWAYS provides housing and related supportive services to improve quality of life and health outcomes for people affected by HIV/AIDS, assisting almost 3,000 individuals a year in 132 counties in Missouri and Illinois. It has four housing programs and a 24hour residential care facility called Cooper House, helping to meet the diverse needs of HIV+ individuals across the bi-state region. “We can meet people wherever they are in their illness – rent assistance, emergency housing, move-in subsidies, support services,” Opal Jones, President and CEO of DOORWAYS, says. “Most of our folks are living on less than $1,000 a month, which is why food is an issue for every one of our clients.”

February 2017

themed but with first grade culinary skills. The meals included turkey and cheese sandwiches, potato chips, apples, oranges, water and individual pumpkin pies.”

With staff support like Jones and Amour, it’s easy to see why “I read some books on Thanksgiving and talked about our own DOORWAYS is so successful with its mission. Community involve- family traditions and how not everyone is fortunate enough to have a turkey dinner. They were very excited for the opportunity to help,” ment is also key to the organization’s impact. Sommer continues. “They had a goal in mind of helping 50 people, a number which was unfathomable to some of them because it's “We are supported by faith communities, and there’s one church more people than there are kids in their entire grade at school. They that even sends money specifically for special meals,” Armour says. “It’s whatever they want: Chinese food, hamburgers, even Popeye’s. didn't stop until they were out of supplies.” These things might not be special to us and we might take them for Other community members have also helped by planting a garden, granted, but it’s a treat for them and something they look forward which grows herbs and vegetables that Armour uses in meals and to.” cooking classes. With 20 years of experience at Cooper House, Armour’s cookbook is likely overflowing with recipes. So what is the This past Thanksgiving, DOORWAYS also received support from some of our community’s smallest citizens: a group of six year olds. most requested dish? She was quick to answer: Soul food. Katrina Sommer, a community member and DOORWAYS volunIt becomes a double entendre. Soul food. Food for the soul. After teer, arranged a play date with kids from her son’s class to practice all, that’s really the mission of DOORWAYS – nourishing the mind, what being a good citizen meant – a theme they were learning body and spirit to lift people up and stand on their own again. about in school – by packing meals for individuals in the organiza“Sometimes they may want to give up,” Armour says. “But that’s not tion’s emergency residential housing. an option here. We change that.” “We had 10 first grade boys and some of them had never been in For more information about DOORWAYS or about how to get the kitchen before for meal prep, so it was interesting watching involved, visit doorwayshousing.org. V them teach one another how to make turkey sandwiches and pack sandwich bags,” Sommer says. “We tried to make it Thanksgiving-

Cooper House is where Armour works. Whether she’s cooking up a huge dish of mostaccioli or baking some sweet peach cobbler, she knows that having a full belly is incredibly important for people living with HIV. Good nutrition is necessary for an efficient immune system, something that is essential in keeping HIV under control. Some clients, Armour says, come into Cooper House with 10 to 30 percent below their ideal body weight, eating only one meal a day. Cooper House provides the care to regain their health with support from nursing and clinical staff, dieticians, and social workers. Naturally, one of the primary focuses is nutrition. Upon arrival, clients are given a nutritional assessment to determine their needs, likes and dislikes when it comes to food. If they need to gain weight, have more protein/vitamins or require a special diet order, Armour crafts a meal that not only meets those needs but tastes good too. They’re provided with supplements, health shakes, three meals a day and an 8 p.m. snack. In addition to whipping up delicious dishes, Armour also teaches nutrition classes and counsels residents about eating correctly.

Shaken Not Stirred Doorways Red Gala February 4 at Ritz-Carlton St. Louis

Tickets available at www.doorwayshousing.org

“My favorite part of my job is watching the person becoming stronger and feel better,” she explains. “I want them to feel like this place is home; you have to show people that you care. Tell them,

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text kevin schmidt art steve truesdell

In the restaurant industry, there are two types of dining establishments: ones that you go to because you are hungry, and ones that you go to to celebrate life. In a dining climate where 60 percent of new restaurants close before their first anniversary, the competition is stiff, and the margin for error is slim to none. For Derek and Lucas Gamlin, Clayton-bred brothers turned Central West Endreigning restaurateurs, filling your stomach isn’t why they got into the business.

“It took a while for people to realize that Sub Zero wasn’t just a bar to go to,” Lucas explains. “I would say after five or six years, we got that footing as a restaurant. That’s what we wanted to establish when we opened Gamlin [Whiskey House].”

“I grew to love the industry,” Derek explains. “When that happened, I realized that I wanted to do something on my own. I had all these ideas while I was working for other people, but I decided to hold on to some of those ideas until I was able to come up with what I did.”

Gamlin Whiskey House opened in 2013 as the next step for the brothers. Not necessarily a step up, but a step over, literally. In a vacant space just a block south from Sub Zero, Gamlin Whiskey House moved in. Today, the two restaurants are staples in the neighborhood, both sitting at one of the trendiest intersections in the city, Euclid and Maryland Avenues.

His first idea? A vodka bar. In a period where the trendy martini bar wasn’t so trendy anymore, he took a shot of faith and accumulated as much vodka as he could to open up shop. Following his college graduation in Oregon, Lucas couldn’t even start preparing for his planned move to Italy before he decided to help his brother create the new space, Sub Zero Vodka bar, in 2004. “When we opened Sub Zero, we were just a bar,” Derek explains. “We added sushi to help add to the experience and keep people around to drink more vodka. But we realized that people were coming more and more for the food because of the quality. Our chef, Chef Vu Hoang, has been with us since we opened.” Over the years, Chef Vu and the Gamlin brothers streamed around that quality, pairing phenomenal sushi – and then adding burgers – with the finest selection of vodka to match. It’s a “bar food” destination for any palate.

“With Gamlin, the steaks and the whiskey are super important to us,” Derek adds. “We were looking at this as more of a restaurant than a nightclub or bar.”

“I looked all around the city at multiple spots that were interesting,” Derek says. “Maplewood, Clayton, but I love the central location of the Central West End. We grew up in Clayton just right across the park, and it felt like home to us. The building that Sub Zero is in had six vacancies at the time, so along with Kevin Brennan – who was opening Brennan’s at the time – we got together and said, ‘let’s build something here.’” “Even going back to the 70s and 80s, things were doing all right in the neighborhood, but things changed in the 90s as everything started to move out to the suburbs," Lucas chimes in. Now, as you can tell, there are no empty businesses here. And if there are, it won’t be for long. It feels like it’s becoming the new downtown of St. Louis with so much going on here, starting in the morning and going through the night.”

the

GAMLIN brothers developing a dining destination

February 2017

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While the Central West End has become the vibrant neighborhood that it is today, the evolution since when Derek and Lucas first arrived in 2004 is apparent. “Bar Italia was around, and they did booming business,” Derek says. “There were some restaurants that were doing pretty well here. But the nightlife scene wasn’t as robust as it is now. Drunken Fish was a place called Asian Grill, where they had an all-you-can-eat lunch and was more of a takeout place. It definitely flipped and transformed when we came in, along with Kevin Brennan. Drunken Fish followed after that, and the three of us sort of changed the outlook of the Central West End, making it a place where you can bar hop, bounce and find something new.” There’s simply nowhere else they’d rather be. St. Louis is the place where the Gamlins like to put money into and invest, and they feel that the Central West End is the heart of the city. “It’s only going to get better,” Derek continues. “Things that we have been fighting for years are finally happening.” That “big city” feel is something rather exclusive to the neighborhood, tricky to replicate almost anywhere else in the city. And the walkable community is perfect for the Gamlins’ restaurants, with many of their regulars living in the homes and apartments nearby. “It’s super exciting to see those people walk out on a snowy or icy day where you would think that we’d be slow,” Derek explains. “It’s a huge advantage, much better than sitting in a strip mall in the county, waiting for people to drive in.”

"It feels like it’s becoming the new downtown of St. Louis with so much going on here, starting in the morning and going through the night.”

Whether you are driving in, transiting in or walking in, the Gamlins’ are thriving as the neighborhood has forged itself into a foodie’s fantasy. Walk a little further south from Sub Zero and Gamlin Whiskey House, and you’ll find the newest addition to the Gamlin family, 1764 Public House. It’s a destination that takes them back to their roots, a respectful nod to the history of both the city of St. Louis and the Central West End itself. “Obviously, [1764] stands for the year the city was founded,” Derek explains. “We want it to be a place where St. Louisans are proud to go to, as well as a sort of tourist attraction where people can come to learn a little bit about the city of St. Louis and really take pride in both the cuisine and who St. Louisans are. We are a very friendly people, and it’s a nice place where people can gather at a nice, big bar and maybe watch a Cardinals game.” 1764 will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s easy to eat, you can be in and out or you can stay a while. “We want it to be ‘everyone’s living room,’” Derek laughs. “That may not make sense, but a lot of kids don’t even have TVs or cable these days, so it would be a nice spot for someone to walk down to.” When you think Sub Zero, you think vodka. With Gamlin, you’ve got to have a whiskey or bourbon. So what about 1764? A St. Louis theme? Beer would be the obvious pairing. “We’re not inclined to have a liquor-centric place at 1764,” Lucas responds. “It’s called ‘Public House,’ which people think of beer, but we want it to be more casual and not focused on just one thing.” Nonetheless, because it is St. Louis, they plan on doing a lot of St. Louis drafts, as well as incorporating as many St. Louis products and local farms as possible.

February 2017

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While the style is quintessential St. Louis, the guys know where to look for trends. They’ve traveled as close as Kentucky and as far as London for design inspirations. “We’ve been fortunate enough to be able to travel, and if we see something we like, we take a photo of it or jot it down and try to absorb the feel and the atmosphere or those places,” Derek explains. “I can look around Gamlin or Sub Zero and say, ‘I got that idea in Vegas, Chicago, Dallas,’ wherever it might be, and we’re able to act on it and take bits and pieces and put it together to make it a St. Louis place.” In keeping up with St. Louis history, the design will be a nod to when the building originally opened as the Forest Park Hotel. “It will be fairly modern because we had to rip out the entire space,” Lucas points out, “but a lot of the space will be a nod to when the building was constructed in 1922. Liberace used to play there weekly at the Circus Snack Bar nightclub.” Liberace say what? From Liberace to Muhammad Ali, Sarah Vaughn to Louis Armstrong, The Forest Park Hotel was a destination itself in its day. And the Circus Snack nightclub – the space that 1764 will now occupy – deserves the nod that it will rightfully receive. Like everything at a Gamlin restaurant, all the food will be from scratch. “It’s what we do,” Derek says. “We’ll have a bakery, so we will be able bake bread for all three restaurants. We’ll have a lot of fresh fish, which we have the opportunity to source through Sub Zero. We’ll also have great meat through Gamlin, so hopefully we’re creating this three-legged monster that can support and provide for itself.” “One new thing that want to try is a redfish dish,” Lucas explains. “We’re testing it at Gamlin, and that will be on the menu at 1764. We want to incorporate the significance of the Mississippi by mixing the flavors of New Orleans and St. Louis.” Think along the lines of “crawfish toasted ravioli.” Both of the Gamlins’ restaurants have received national attention, whether it’s being featured on Zagat’s “50 States, 50 Steaks,” “10 Can’t-Miss Whisky Bars Around the USA” by USA Today, even Sub Zero was named the “Best Vodka Bar in America” by USA Today. Still, St. Louis is in the middle of an amazing culinary renaissance, now it’s just time for everyone else to know about it. “I think that the reputation of being a dining destination is what we are missing,” Lucas says. “I think St. Louis in underrated,” Derek adds. “Through our travels, you can see that you can get a great dining experience here for a value. One thing that it is missing is that dining core. You have all these neighborhoods with a couple good spots, but I think that the Central West End has the ability to have multiple great restaurants that are all walkable.” V

February 2017

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life guide

Destination Delicious:

Felix's Pizza Pub | 6401 Clayton Ave. | felixspizzapub.com

Dogtown

A 2017 Dining Guide

Sanctuaria | 4198 Manchester Ave. | sanctuariastl.com

The Grove

text brandon evans art audrey scherer

St. Louis is a vibrant and diverse city that offers a massive variety of things to do and see. Whether you want to play and learn at City Museum or take in the arts at the Art Museum, there is no shortage of interesting and entertaining places to visit. There is also another side of St. Louis that we don’t really think about while exploring the city, and that is our impressive food scene. The city, and all of its neighborhoods, holds several culinary jewels. Each of these dining destinations packs massive amounts of flavor and fun into the dining experience, all without costing an arm and a leg. Here just a few of the most delicious eateries in town. V

Felix’s Pizza Pub is a New York Style pizza den located in the heart of Dog Town, and residents visit the pizzeria and pub regularly. The large space gives you the perfect place to enjoy a slice, or even a whole pizza. The inspired menu offers much more than just your usual toppings, and, if you come here, you better be ready for a slice of adventure as you check out the massive selection of specialty pizzas. To start your taste buds on a thrill ride, order a slice of Turtle Park. topped with Canadian bacon, pineapple, freshly diced jalapenos, and drizzled in tangy BBQ sauce.

Serving tapas, Sanctuaria is sure to surprise you with their menu. The small tapas plates hide big, bold flavors. Start with the Cabrales Cigars, which are made of Spanish blue cheese and leek fondue rolled into “cigars” before being pan seared and accented with a pleasant sherry-raisin sauce. Then order the Vaca Frita with Chimichurri. This delicious dish is a shredded Angus steak that is pan seared to perfection with just the right amount of charring, before being bedded atop a thick potato puree and finished with a citrus herb sauce.

Favazza's | 5201 Southwest Ave. | favazzas.com

The Hill

Favazza’s is exactly what you would expect if you wanted a taste of exceptional yet traditional Italian food. Located on The Hill, Favazza’s offers intimate interior dining or a warm brick walled outdoor area that oozes ambiance. The red sauce is the real draw here, with a velvety texture and a rich bite. The marinara is capable of making even a plate of spaghetti noodles a memorable dish. Served with freshly baked garlic bread in a setting worthy of a scene from GoodFellas or The Sopranos, the food and experience at Favazza’s will keep you coming back for a taste of authentic Italian in the Midwest.

Blues City Deli | 2438 McNair Ave. | bluescitydeli.com

Benton Park

This establishment is so popular that it is common to see a line of eager customers going out the door and down the block. Think hot or cold sandwiches that include an original roast beef and an Italian beef, a variety of Po’ boy sandwiches, pork BBQ sandwiches, veggie sandwiches, and of course their Prez Reuben that overflows pastrami and Swiss with sauerkraut smothered in thousand island dressing right off the thick rye bread. While you are there, see if you’re lucky enough to catch a live blues band for entertainment.

Small Batch | 3001 Locust St. | smallbatchstl.com

Midtown

Small Batch is labeled as a whiskey bar, and you’ll definitely notice that as they hand you a menu with the first ten pages devoted to the brown liquor. While it is easy to get lost in trying to find the perfect whiskey blend, you’d do yourself a massive service to try the brunch menu. Order the Johnny Cakes, which consists of cherry compote, sorghum syrup, the toasted crunch of bruleed banana, and whipped coconut ice cream (which is so good you may just order a bowl on the side).

Bootleggin BBQ | 1933 Washington Ave | bootlegginbbq.com

Downtown

February 2017

This downtown BBQ joint is memorable for a variety of reasons, chiefly being located on Washington Avenue, which puts it in walking distance from all the fun things to do downtown. Also, it has incredibly delicious BBQ. It’s Kansas City Style BBQ that has the sweet tomato and molasses based sauce drenching the smoked meats. The signature burnt ends, which are double rubbed smoky cubes from the brisket point, highlight the menu and offer a taste that any true fan of BBQ will appreciate. thevitalVOICE.com

Pearl vodka Presents 6th AnnuAl

a festival of short lgbtQ Plays

.zack PerforMiNg arts iNcubator 3224 locust ave. â&#x20AC;˘ st. louis March 9-11, 2017

the fiNal act tickets available at Metrotix.com That Uppity Theatre Company

February 2017

The Men's Designer Showcase Returns text jill firns art courtesy of brainchild events

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style

When you think of a classic fashion show, do you instantly imagine lithe, tall women sashaying down a runway? We would bet that most people do. Menswear designers typically don’t dominate fashion weeks in most cities, although many locations now have a designated menswear week. While St. Louis has not quite caught up with an entire week dedicated to dressing stylish dudes, the annual Gent! showcase brings a bit of dapper flavor to our fair city with an expanded calendar this year. Part of St. Louis resident Dwight Carter’s Brainchild Events family, Gent! turns three years old this February. The annual event showcases local and regional independent menswear designers on the runway. And in one more step to break the mold of traditional runway shows, the Gent! fashion show returns to its home at Mungenast Lexus on Manchester on Thursday, February 16. When asked about the choice of location, Carter perfectly described the offbeat setup as “visually stimulating.” If you have attended in the past, you may recall the colored lights beaming up from the walls and the show being opened by a recent Lexus model cruising down the main aisle. In a way that does not feel as though it’s fallen prey to stereotypical masculinity, Gent!’s vibe blends cars, designers and a little bit of booze. Scotch, whiskey and a specialty cocktail by Pearl Vodka? Sign us up. This year’s cast of designers have a few returning Gent! veterans, including Paulie Gibson, Christian Michael and Skif International. Carter names STL-based Paulie Gibson as his inspiration for the showcase, and as Gibson was the original designer featured in the Gent!, he will “always have a presence at the show.” Christian Michael’s work caught Carter’s eye at Kansas City Fashion Week in 2012, and was a huge hit at last year’s showcase. We discovered that Michael is even debuting a women’s line in Fall/Winter 2017, which will be exciting to see. Skif International returns this year, along with their always-unique use of non-traditional models walking the runway. Loyal Collective joins Gent! this year with their first show, also hailing from St. Louis. Designed and crafted here in the USA, Loyal Collective’s denim and tops are competitively priced for the sustainability-conscious shopper. Last but not least, Marcel Coleman’s work will hit the runway this year. A finalist in the annual Pins and Needles emerging designer competition Carter also organizes, Coleman is the one to watch. 2017 brings bright changes, with two more days of events on the schedule. A full-scale pop-up shop is planned to be held at Gamlin Whiskey House from 4-8 p.m. on Friday February 17, featuring men’s clothing and accessories. Carter knows the way to our hearts with free admission, shopping and an amazing array of whiskey all under one roof. New this year to the calendar is something stylish in a different way: the inaugural Gent! Barber Battle. Notch STL has been a partner with Carter for the beauty aspect of the runway show, and the salon has made a name for itself in St. Louis with its incredibly talented team. We’re excited to see stylists from the Notch team as well as other local barbers and cosmetology students 34

February 2017

compete to groom on stage at The Ready Room on Manchester. The competition closes out the weekend of Gent! activities, held on Saturday, February 18 at 8 p.m. Ten barbers will be selected from submissions to compete for a prize package totaling $1,500. With an expanded calendar of events in 2017, Gent! is well on its way to making St. Louis an even more formidable force in the fashion world. Carter excites us every year, and we can’t wait to support him as this fantastic weekend brings more awareness to our city’s support of men’s style. V

EVENT SCHEDULE: DAY 1: RUNWAY SHOW

Date: Thursday, February 16, 2017 Location: Mungenast Lexus, 13700 Manchester Rd. Time: Doors open at 7 p.m.; Show at 8 p.m. Tickets: Advanced – VIP (includes cocktails, 1st and 2nd row seating, VIP Lounge) $45, General Admission Seating $25; At the door: VIP $55, GA Seating $35 Purchase tickets for runway show at eventbrite.com

DAY 2: POP-UP SHOP

Date: Friday, February 17, 2017 Location: Gamlin Whiskey House, 236 N Euclid Ave. Time: 4 p.m. – 8 p.m. Free Admission

DAY 3: BARBER BATTLE

Date: Saturday, February 18, 2017 Location: The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave. Time: Doors open at 7 p.m.; Show at 8 p.m. Tickets: $10/$15 Purchase tickets for Barbershop Competition at thereadyroom.com Dwight Carter would like to thank Vital VOICE, Mungenast Lexus St. Louis, Pearl Vodka, Stevens – The Institute of Business & Arts, and Notch STL. Gent! would not be able to be as amazing as it is without the support of these companies. Proceeds from Gent! help support the Siba Scholarship Fund, supporting students in the St. Louis region in achieving their dreams in various business and design-related backgrounds.

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entertainment

Mardi Gras

Bastille Krewe text karla templeton art courtesy of jade sinclair

The krewe at Bastille are ready for the 2017 Mardi Gras season. Mardi Gras, one of the most beloved celebrations worldwide, is a staple here in St. Louis, capping off winter by bundling up, taking to the streets of Soulard and drinking until we are warm. Every year, the St. Louis Soulard neighborhood hosts one of the largest Mardi Gras celebrations in the nation, second only to the infamous New Orleans Mardi Gras. Created over a drunken conversation at Hilary’s bar in 1980, Soulard’s version of the celebration – once a simple bar hop – has since grown into the massive event it is known as today. Each year, the theme for the celebration and the floats that carry our beads is uniquely celebrated. 2017 will again bring to life the glitz and prestige that started it all, and the gays are sure to own it: Celebrate Cinema. La Reine, avec ses paillettes, ses perles et ses plumes – she is sure to get you in the spirit.

MARCH 15 • 7:30PM Peabody Opera House

TICKETS: SCOTTRADE CENTER BOX OFFICE ALL TICKETMASTER TICKET CENTERS • 800-745-3000 • TICKETMASTER.COM

GROUP DISCOUNTS FOR 10 OR MORE CALL 314-499-7676

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

Now Open! Free admission

SPONSORED BY

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February 2017

The Mardi Gras show will not only have its royal performances to keep you entertained, but the Bastille crew will also be tossing out beads and various other swag to patrons. Between sets, DJ Holy Sparklez will keep you moving by getting the dance music spinning for all the outside revelers at the corner of Russell and Menard. In addition to the inside bar serving up your favorite libations, the outside area will have a large bar set up next to the stage. Bars will be opening early so groups can pregame before the parade. Mardi Gras performances will start around 2 p.m. with a different show at the top of every hour, ending with the finale performance at 5 p.m. And the events are not only just for one day. Throughout the week of celebrations, you will find Bastille throwing a multitude of great events including its weekly drag show. In its 10th year of production, “Mighty Monday” starts at 9 p.m. This production is the longest running show in the city and is a must to attend. Seats are limited as space for this particular week’s performance is sure to pack the house. Special appearances will also include former Miss Gay Illinois America, Miss Mariah Candy, and Mahogany Knight, Miss USofA at Large.

ROUTE

Main Street Through St. Louis

Bastille, Soulard’s premier LGBT bar, will be hosting an array of fabulous events to mark the occasion with some of the area’s top royalty in live performance. Miss Jade Sinclair – reigning double title holder of Miss Missouri Continental and Miss Missouri Continental Elite – will be teaming up with Miss Tiffany T. Hunter – former Miss Continental – to host performances throughout the day both inside and at the outside bar on Russell. In it’s four years, Bastille’s Mardi Gras show has built a reputation of its own in the Soulard and greater LGBT communities. It is jointly sponsored by Bastille and neighboring favorite, Joannies.

Forest Park (314) 746-4599 mohistory.org

Bastille is the place to be for all your Mardi Gras festivities for live performances, a great drink, dancing and just overall debauchery. If it’s a crazy good time you're looking for, then Bastille @ 1027 Russell is your answer. Laissez les bons temps rouler! V

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entertainment

Fare Intentions:

Sidney Street Cafe

It takes a while to garner trust, and I think a lot of people rush into changing things without even knowing what they need to change. It was a slow evolution. Eventually, we could put foie gras on the menu. We put a tasting menu on six or seven years ago. It’s a fun little trip.” Now, the restaurant is a destination for new American cuisine presented with attention to every detail and garnish. Adventurous favorites include the Rabbit Porchetta with sweet potato confit and braised red cabbage, house made agnolotti pasta filled with foie gras and duck confit, and the Loup de Mer, a European sea bass served with posole and crispy hamhocks. Of course, steaks are a big seller as well, like the Filet Bearnaise: filet mignon stuff with lobster, served on a bed of herbed pomme puree. In Lehman’s terms, it’s a lobster sandwich with filet mignon buns. Sold.

text kevin schmidt art kevin schmidt

If you know anything about entertaining clients, impressing a potential lover, or treating yourself to something extraordinary, chances are that you’ve visited one of Kevin Nashan’s restaurants. He’s a James Beard Award-winning chef, most known around town for transforming the St. Louis staple, Sidney Street Café, from an entrylevel eatery into a creative, awe-inspiring dining destination. His launch of now local favorite, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Company, shows a different side of his cooking, fusing Gulf Coast with New England cuisine in a more affordable, casual atmosphere. You and I both know his food is good – read any local food publication or Yelp review in recent years. But beyond the food is the story of the establishment itself, and how Kevin Nashan established a dining destination in one of the most evolved and now sought after neighborhoods in the city: Benton Park. When Kevin Nashan and his brother, Chris, looked to move to St. Louis, the quaint space easily caught their attention. “We moved with the desire and thought that we were going to open up our own restaurant,” Kevin says. “We looked everywhere from stand alone features to existing restaurants, and [Sidney Street] came out of the blue. We liked the feel of it. It was pretty comfortable, and we knew it was something we could evolve.” The neighborhood just west of Soulard was, like most now bustling city neighborhoods, an overlooked and avoided area, but still filled with row homes of unique, French-inspired architecture. Think classic St. Louis, before the parking lot decided to pave itself on every corner. “It’s a really cool neighborhood that has amazing structures,” Kevin explains. “The red brick, the wood beams – it’s unparallel. And it’s 38

February 2017

really hard to duplicate that. Plus, it’s fun. Who wants to always be where the stream is going? Sometimes it’s fun to be off the beaten path. I’m always a firm believer that, if you put out a solid product with appreciation and great service, that people will come back over time. I think we’ve been fortunate enough that that’s been the case.” His belief system sounds checks out, as the risk seemed to pay off. In August of 2014, Kevin took the next step in establishing a restaurant where he, in his own words, “wanted to eat at everyday.” Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Company opened just a block east of Sidney Street Café with a warm welcome from the city. “We had a great team going into it, a plan, and thank God the city supported it,” he says. “We’ve definitely taken our lumps, but it’s been fun. I love that it’s on the same block and it’s totally different but completely complimentary. It has the same kind of soul and feel, but in a different way.” And it works. Kevin and Chris – Chris handles the front of the house – have established both of their restaurants as destinations, staking their claim in an ever-evolving neighborhood. “It’s not so much a matter of holding ground, but having the mindset that failure is not an option,” Kevin explains. Sidney Street Café is now known as one of the finest restaurants in the city, but it did receive adverse responses when they initially took over. Not surprisingly, from St. Louisans who were weary of change. “Our goal was to evolve it, just like anything in life when you take something over, especially something special like this place,” Kevin explains. “Being at such a young age – I was 31 – it was hard.

And his response to the critique that the restaurant has changed? “I like the Sidney Street before and after,” he says without a beat. “You have to evolve in life. There were certain mainstays on the menu – like the Poulet Montrachet – but people weren’t ordering them. It just kind of outdates itself, and you have to spice it up. It’s hard to make everyone happy, but you also have to come with the times. That’s longevity.” “Because if it’s not interesting and it’s not soulful, then people lose interest,” Kevin continues. “That’s why things become dinosaurs – because it’s just old and tired. You’ve got to be fresh without trying to be trendy. If you are always engaging in the customer and keeping them stimulated, people love it. You try to change without changing, right? We’re in the business of making people happy. We’re not in the business of, ‘Oh, this is cool.” I’m in the business of, ‘hey, let’s make people happy and let’s do this.’” Besides just that, they’re in the family business. “It’s like any family. Everyone has their hugs and tears and yells and all that, but Chris and I have had this fun, crazy friendship that goes beyond brotherhood,” he says. “And then we roped my wife, Mina, into it. It’s a fun dynamic.” Beyond Sidney Street, Kevin notes the evolution of the St. Louis dining scene as a whole, with just one key ingredient missing to take it to an international level. “Exposure,” he quickly replies. “I think it’s getting better and better every year, and we have new people coming in. I think the food scene here is incredible, and that’s what I always hear from people who are coming in, that it’s incredible and diverse. Whether you go to Mai Lee, grab some great barbecue, fine dining or fried chicken, we’ve got it. And we’ve got it with soul.” V thevitalVOICE.com

entertainment

During production of The Gilded Table, Suzanne’s son, Jim Corbett III, provided photography and worked very closely with his mother. As a self-proclaimed gay man and member of the bear community, Jim has taken many award-winning photos and often collaborates with his mother. “I’m crazy proud of mum,” he says. “She was a great inspiration and motivator to pursue my career in photography. It’s great to be able to work with her collaboratively now as a peer. He went on to say that they work together almost telepathically, knowing what the other is thinking without verbal communication. “You know us gay boys have the best relationships with our mothers,” he laughs. “He is my hero,” Suzanne says of Jim. “I don’t know what I would do without him. I’m telling you, he is the most creative person I’ve ever met. We are fortunate that every once in awhile we can collaborate together.” text curtis galloway art courtesy of suzanne corbett

Their work on The Gilded Table, if anything, strengthened that mother and son bond. The book released last fall and is available online and in various stores through St. Louis.

Any foodie in this city knows that St. Louis offers a wide array of cuisines. But beyond the food itself is the cast of personalities who prepare it. Suzanne Corbett is one of those personalities. And as a food columnist, instructor for Dierbergs School of Cooking and food historian, it is no surprise that she has become a St. Louis person of interest. Suzanne Corbett has always had an interest in the culinary arts, but found that it did not coincide with her desire to be an actress. Nonetheless, culinary worked out to be better for her and – before food history interpretation was as prominent – she began teaching in the 70s. During one of her classes, a curator for Jefferson Barracks approached Suzanne and asked her if she would be willing to come up with a historical dish for lady’s tea. Naturally, Suzanne agreed, finally finding a way to combine her love for culinary arts and acting by coming in costume and putting on a bread making demonstration. Many more would ask her to put on the same demonstration, and she became known as the St. Louis Bread Lady. Now, Suzanne is an instructor for Dierbergs School of Cooking here in St. Louis. “Dierbergs was a nice fit and a great match because where else would you want to learn to cook unless you were in a place where you get all the food?” Suzanne says, “And so Dierbergs and I have been a match since 1978.” Suzanne is also heavily involved in the National Parks Association, recreating historically accurate foods and meals for different projects including work in a re-creation of a 1970s general store in which she researched the different food products carried by the store in that time period and the role those products played in Western expansion. Hey cooking reflects history, and some of her culinary dishes go pretty far back in time. “I’ve done some things for the Art Museum, many years ago, that looked into foods that were in the Egyptian

February 2017

But I wonder, what does a woman like Suzanne love to eat? Is it something fancy like white fricassee chicken? Or is it as simple as a chili dog? “It depends on what I’m hungry for. Right now I’m kind of hungry for steak. Last night, I was going to kill you for a chili dog,” she laughs. Yes, even the creator of luxurious culinary masterpieces loves to get down from time to time. “I love seasonal,” she continues. “I’m looking forward to spring asparagus right now and fresh green peas. I can’t wait for the local strawberries to come in. This time of year, I start craving local fish fries. I can’t wait for the individual local fish fries to kick in.” tombs,” she explains. “The Egyptians are credited with inventing bread, baking and beer making although you could push those things back to Babylonia. But I’ve done everything from a covered wagon to what the cowboys were eating.”

With all that Suzanne has accomplished, she still isn't finished, now working on a new book project called Unique Eats and Eateries, with little overviews of different spots around the area that have an interesting back story. Through this project, she is able to showcase St. Louis’ background in not just a historical way, but an edible one as well. V

With the extent of what Suzanne does, one would assume that it is a hard and tedious process to research the foods and recreate them. Suzanne disagrees, saying that she wouldn’t call it difficulty, but more of the length of the journey. “I’ve been doing this for quite some time,” she says. “I am a cook, and I grew up with many of these basic terms that a lot of 19th century books use, where the directions are to take it off the fire, or a hot fire, a quick fire. I get that. But you’ll run across directions and ingredients that just throw you a curve, and it takes a lot of digging and looking around and trying to figure out what it was, and how it was done.” Along with writing, Pushcarts and Stalls: The Soulard Market History Cookbook, Suzanne has recently released her second book, The Gilded Table: Recipes and Table History from the Campbell House, which indeed did employ a great deal of digging and looking around. The Gilded Table is a cookbook featuring recipes from the handwritten cookbook of Virginia Campbell of the famed Campbell House Museum in downtown St. Louis. “Some of these recipes from The Gilded Table literally took months to figure out and try to crack,” she says. A little known fact that Suzanne uncovered is that estrogen used to be a word used for a type of turmeric that was popular at the time. She said that the recipes took over a year to reconstruct into modern terms and instructions.

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Siren& pinko's farewellshow

February 2017

Art mark moore Place jj's clubhouse

Before Siren and Pinko took their new journey to New Orleans, they brought together tons of their favorite performers for one last blowout show. In addition to multiple performances from the ladies of honor, other epic performance from the names of Rydyr, Michelle McCausland, Maxi Glamour, Chasity Valentino, Kamiya Krush and more helped raise proceeds to support Siren and Pinko in pursuing their dreams down South.

St. Louis Blues Pride Night just johnpre-party Art mark moore Place just john

The St. Louis Blues held their first ever Pride night this year, furthering the NHL’s effort to be more inclusive to LGBT community. The special themed night included a themed Blues rainbow t-shirt that supports “You Can Play,” which works to ensure the inclusion for all athletes, coaches and fans. It was a special night for our community, starting with a pregame party at Just John, where shuttles then took attendees to the game.

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NOW OPEN Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and housemade pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.