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CEO & PARTNER • DARIN SLYMAN DSLY@THEVITALVOICE.COM PUBLISHER & PARTNER • JIMMY LESCH JIMMY@THEVITALVOICE.COM ART DIRECTOR • MELANIE LAYER-GASKELL MELANIE@MELANIELAYER.COM CONTENT MANAGER • KEVIN SCHMIDT KEVIN@THEVITALVOICE.COM WRITER • CHRIS ANDOE CHRIS@THEVITALVOICE.COM WRITER • DENNY PATTERSON DENNY@THEVITALVOICE.COM WRITER • KARLA TEMPLETON KARLATEMPLETON1213@GMAIL.COM CONTRIBUTORS ART: DARIN SLYMAN, MELANIE LAYER-GASKELL, MARK MOORE, AJ BROWN, CHRISTOPHER POLK & BRIAN BOWEN, DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN, VISIT KC, REGIONAL ARTS COMMISSION OF ST. LOUIS, ARTSKC, SAINT LOUIS FASHION FUND TEXT: JIMMY NO SHOW, KEVIN SCHMIDT, CHRIS ANDOE, DENNY PATTERSON, KARLA TEMPLETON, CURTIS GALLOWAY, MALANA BRADFORD, PAULIE GIBSON DESIGN: MELANIE LAYER-GASKELL, GRANT SWANSON ONLINE THEVITALVOICE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/VITALVOICE TWITTER.COM/VITALVOICE YOUTUBE.COM/THEVITALVISION INSTAGRAM.COM/VITALVOICE CONTACT VITAL VOICE MAGAZINE 4579 LACLEDE AVE #268 ST. LOUIS, MO 63108 VV@THEVITALVOICE.COM ST. LOUIS: 314.256.1196 ADVERTISING VV@THEVITALVOICE.COM
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25K ISSUES PRINTED MONTHLY 400+ POINTS OF DISTRIBUTION
September 2015
THROUGHOUT THE ST. LOUIS AND KANSAS CITY AREA
SEPTEMBER 2015 | Volume 16 | Issue 9
CONTENTS PUBLISHERS LETTER KANSAS CITY FASHION WEEK
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SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE KING OF VINTAGE
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CAMERON SILVER MEETING MISS GABBY
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GABRIEL SOUZA LINDBERGH
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FALL FASHION FOR MEN HOUSE OF ATTITUDES REGIONAL ARTS COMMISSION ARTSKC ARCHITECTURE WARS
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SHOWDOWN IN THE SHOW ME STATE FASHION IS FOUND AGAIN
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SAINT LOUIS FASHION FUND SCENE PLAYDATES LAST CALL
44 46 49
JUST JOHN
BRAD GORESKI STARS IN FASHION POLICE ON E! | AUGUST 31 @ 8/7c thevitalVOICE.com
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PUBLISHER LETTER
Lights, cameras, models! Let’s create some style. It’s long been known that the LGBT community is drenched in the ability to create beautiful things. Fashion, interior design, architecture, visual fine art and a stylish life are just a few things that come to mind. Vital VOICE is excited to welcome you to our annual September Design and Style Issue. Getting his start as an intern at Vogue, this month’s cover boy Brad Goreski went on to be a style assistant on Bravo’s The Rachel Zoe Project and star in his own series, It’s A Brad, Brad World. Our cover boy has definitely garnered his own celebrity status by working hard and becoming more confident in his own media aptitude. With the passing of Joan Rivers and a short lived revival featuring host Kathy Griffin, the question remains: can Brad Goreski save E!’s Fashion Police as the new cohost? Tune in Monday, August 31st to find out! It’s that time to transform your wardrobe from summer into your favorite fall looks. What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot and what’s not will all be on display September 18 – 26 at Kansas City Fashion Week. Other notables in this month’s Design and Style Issue are the fabulous Cameron Silver, whose international connections in vintage fashion have made him the “Duke of Melrose” at Decades in Los Angeles, where all the A-listers shop for unique, one-of-a-kind looks before hitting the red carpet. Plus St. Louis’ own Miss Gabby is
on a mission to find the hottest up-and-coming models that’ll grace the pages of magazines and runways of couture shows worldwide. Fashion isn’t your thing? Vital VOICE is also pleased to bring you great insights into the architectural differences between St. Louis and Kansas City. We also dive into the world of civic art by featuring St. Louis’ Regional Arts Commission and Kansas City’s ArtsKC organization, both of which are responsible for funding and promoting some of our region’s most talked about art instillations, theatre and cultural events. On this side of the state, St. Louis Fashion Fund recently launched its emerging designer competition in conjunction with Saint Louis Fashion Week. The recipient of the grand prize will receive a showcased spot in this season’s STLFW and a cash prize to start their own line. Finally, did you get share your summer photo sporting our Vital VOICE sunglasses? Check out this month’s Scene On Instagram for some of our favorite posts from our social media contest for a Pearl Vodka prize pack. Follow us on Instagram @VitalVOICE where we’ll announce the winner later this month. V
Darin Slyman CEO/Partner
Jimmy Lesch Publisher/Partner
314-312-6398
2321 Arsenal @
Facebook.com/L Jeeerson illysSTL
LillysHouseSTL
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Spring/Summer 2016 KCFW is back, and will be held September 18 - September 26. Additional events will be added over the next several weeks as well. For a full schedule of events and to purchase tickets and ticket packages, visit kcfashionweek.com
Wednesday, September 23 Pearl Vodka & Vital VOICE Poolside Runway Show & Cocktail Party Location: One-Light Rooftop Pool @ Power & Light District VIP Doors Open: 6:00 p.m. GA Doors Open: 7:00 p.m. Show: 7:30 p.m. The show will be featuring: The Garment District Boutique, Mary Mwash Collections and Jenna Sea to name a few. Other retailers and designers to be announced. Thursday, September 24 Charity Runway Show for Fair & Fashionable Location: Union Station - Sprint Festival Plaza Doors Open: 6:30 p.m. Show: 7:30 p.m. The show will be featuring: Alexis Cook, Kingdom Culture Unlimited, Gypsey Blaque, Buf Reynolds, Independence Center, Jessica Lynn, Redeux Kids, Enve Designs and My Heirloom. A portion of the proceeds from this show will benefit Fair & Fashionable. Special Guest Designer: TBA It is encouraged all guests to come wearing black to raise awareness for melanoma. Friday, September 25 Union Station Runway Show Location: Union Station - Sprint Festival Plaza Doors Open: 6:30 p.m. Show: 8:00 p.m. The show will be featuring: Davi, Fabrikait Designs, Lauren Bander, Ola Style, Independance Center, Jenna Sea, Paulie Gibson, Molly Elizabeth Designs and Afielda. Special Guest Designer: TBA Saturday, September 26 Union Station Runway Show Location: Union Station- Sprint Festival Plaza Doors Open: 6:30 p.m. Show: 8:00 p.m. This show will be featuring: Architexture, Tomboy Design, Alicia Janesko Caftans, Katie Lee, Independence Center, Lucia’s Sarto, Maria Behnen, House of Cochon and Heidi Herrman. Special Guest Designer: TBA 10
September 2015
FEATURED KANSAS CITY DESIGNERS: Paulie Gibson: As the President & Designer of menswear label Paulie Gibson, Paul draws upon all of his life experiences to serve as inspiration to his apparel. Paul launched his first sellable collection under his label Paulie Gibson with a showcase with local organization RAW: Artists. Simultaneously, Paulie Gibson was selected for the Phoenix Fashion Week Emerging designer program, where he was selected and purchased by retail giant Zappos.com. While in Phoenix, the brand began to garner the attention of the celebrity stylists in Los Angeles, and within two weeks had his first showing at STYLE Fashion Week, Los Angeles. The following season the collection returned to SFW where he completed his second showing and was filmed & featured on America’s Next Top Model Cycle 20. In addition to ANTM, Paulie Gibson has been worn to the Grammy’s, movie premieres, music videos and published in numerous publications.
AFIELDA AFIELDA is a clothing line discovered by Elda Doamekpo. Elda is 17-year-old fashion designer currently pursuing fashion while going to school. Her designs are timeless, elegant and classy. Elda designs for every size with garments that are not only figure flattering, but stunning. With her experience in pattern making, every garment is made to impress. With appearances in Omaha Fashion Week and Kansas City Fashion Week, AFIELDA is getting the attention of the Midwest community and is quickly growing as a known brand.
Jessica Lynn Collins In 2006, Jessica Lynn Collins started off sewing garments for her daughter. Not too long after, she started creating outfits for other mothers that wanted their little girls to have one of a kind handmade items. Now she is working on growing her brand and traveling to various fashion weeks. She aims to create beautiful dresses that all little girls dream of. When they walk out on the runway, she wants it to feel like they are dresses that came out of a dream.
Gypsy Blaque Experienced in merchandising, retail and styling, Brooke Cromley has managed a local Kansas City boutique, assisted in production of fashion shows and styled numerous clients. Brooke has been cultivating her concept for about a year, and with much encouragement from her family and friends, she decided to take her concepts and designs to the next level. Gypsy Blaque is gypsy style, rebel soul and bold passion with streamlined silhouettes with free spirit detailing. Essential pieces for a well put together wardrobe with an edgy feel.
eNVe
eNVe Designs is a handmade jewelry line that makes statements in stone and metal. Ngan Vuong is a self-taught jewelry artist with a perpetual desire to learn new techniques and an ever-evolving design aesthetic. She enjoys working with genuine stones and a range of metals. And though she finds inspiration everywhere she looks, Ngan is most inspired by the natural qualities of the stones themselves. Designed with versatility in mind, most pieces allow for flexibility and creativity in how they can be styled. Her creations strike a unique balance between edge and elegance, which is well suited for her clientele: women who are absolutely one of a kind. V thevitalVOICE.com
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experience
unique. authentic. fun.
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The King of Vintage text DENNY PATTERSON ART DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN
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September 2015
hen fashion philanthropist Cameron Silver opened the doors to his iconic store Decades in 1997, the Los Angeles dress code drastically changed. By exhorting his clientele to dress it up, Decades rapidly gained popularity and is now known as one of the foremost high-end vintage stores in the world. Silver is known for dressing numerous big name Hollywood celebrities from Julia Roberts to Lady Gaga. Decades and Silver’s fashion expertise ultimately resulted with him being named one of Time Magazine’s “25 Most Influential Names and Faces of Fashion” in 2002. Today, he is frequently showcased in prominent fashion talk shows on E! and the Style Network, as well as national and international magazines. In 2013, Bravo debuted Silver in a reality show called Dukes of Melrose alongside Decades co-owner Christos Garkinos. Around the same time, Silver presented a coffee table book, “Decades: A Century of Fashion,” showcasing an unexpected compilation of the most significant 20th century fashions, as well as many of the celebrities he has collaborated with over the years. Vital VOICE caught up with Silver to chat about his past and future endeavors and the idea behind Decades. What influenced your passion for fashion? I would it was really influenced by the amount of traveling I did as a child. My parents took me all around the world, and the love of our discovery of new cities, countries and ethnicities were discovered through shopping and style in addition to architectural monuments and great pieces of art. So I think it’s a complimentary way to discover new things by shopping, and shopping happens to include fashion. Tell us a little bit more about your store, Decades Decades has been around for 18 plus years and opened in 1997 in Los Angeles with an emphasis on vintage that looks modern. So when the store first opened, it was very focused on the 60s and 70s, but then eventually grew to encompass all of the twentieth century. Up to the last 16 years, there’s been a second component to the store that specializes in modern designer resale. So I would suggest to the visitor that it’s the best of the 20th and 21st century. Who are your fashion icons? Um, I think most of my fashion icons are deceased [laughs]. As far as male fashion icons, I basically look at any aristocrat from the past, anyone with a title. I can totally surrender to a very opulent looking wardrobe. As far as female stars who I think are very influential for the women I dress, it’s the typical icons like Dietrich and Marilyn and Audrey and Grace and people like Diana Ross and Frida Kahlo; a lot of which I identify in my book. As far as current stars who I think are really quite extraordinary, someone like Cate Blanchett who is so interesting to look at as a fashion icon in addition to a great actress. I also love Olivia Palermo. She wears clothes so beautifully. But a lot of people who I get the most excited about are people who I have never seen before who are on the street where I’m like, ‘who is this wacky chick, who is this person, who put this look together in a very distinctive way?’ I like people who don’t blend in too much. I’m enthusiastic about those who express themselves through fashion. Who has been your favorite celebrity to design for? I have collaborated as a stylist with many, many people. There have been some great Red Carpet moments from Decades with people ranging from Gaga to Rihanna. Again it’s all one named people. Like, Gwyneth is fantastic to dress for and so is J Lo. A person who I’m always the most enthusiastic to see what she likes is Chloe
Sevigny. I think when Chloe comes into the store and chooses things, she has a real masters eye for fashion and I love the things she’s worn from the store in the past. Do you have a particular favorite article of clothing to wear? I do have things that are perennials in my closet, like my favorite pair of jeans or a great motorcycle jacket. It changes a lot. I have so many clothes; I should preface that. I have a certain amount of clothes that it’s obscene. However, out of all things, my favorite thing tends to be pants. I always wear these Uniqlo khakis that a friend of mine turned me on to. He’s like ‘Cameron, these are the best khakis in the world.’ They’re just like the best-cut khaki and they’re only like $30. Obviously there are things in my closet that are more spectacular, and there’s a thrill of wearing something very high fashion like a great McQueen piece. Whenever a designer has made me something, there’s a little more of an emotional connection. Anything I have ever worn to the Costume Institute Met Gala I am so lucky to have. I really treasure those, but the things that give me the most satisfaction seem to be very basics that I wear over and over again; they tend not to be very expensive. Since I have this little apartment in New York with very limited closet space, I have to be really clever on what I keep. Let’s chat about 2015: What design/style trends are hot right now? I think there’s this continual fascination in fashion with athletic clothing being transitioned to more high fashion and professional wear. So a lot of things we normally associate with gym wear, like men’s and women’s track pants, people are now wearing them with a blazer, shirt and tie. So I think that’s something very distinctive of 2015 that we’re seeing: more and more athletic silhouettes with fabrics. Are there any past trends that you would like to see make a comeback? Well the beauty of what I do is that I’ve seen it all [laughs]. I would like to see a walking stick come back. It’s so dandy and elegant and weirdly, extremely masculine. Just the idea, ‘who carries a walking stick?’ and ‘who dials a rotary phone?’ I like those weird things that seem really out there. Then someone can make it look modern, and it’s very interesting. Just to think about someone making a walking stick and making it relevant to the 21st century. What will it do? Will it turn into a little chair so that you can sit while waiting in line at the Apple store to get your iPhone fixed? Those are the things I’m really impressed with. When someone can take something from the past and give it relevancy. Do you currently have any TV projects/books in the works? I have a big project that I’m doing that launches with QVC, and a new launch of one of my favorite designers from the past, Halston. So, I’m functioning as a fashion director with that. I’m coming back to TV, but not with conventional television. I’ll have a bigger audience that I ever dreamed of since QVC is one of the largest reaches of any network on the planet. I’m also working on a new book that I’ve been very lazy about, to be perfect honest. Thank god the book I wrote in 2012 is still selling, because my agent has been pushing me that much to get the new book going. My writing partner and I have a subject, and again it’ll be about fashion, but it’s not a coffee table concept and we just need to focus. She’s trying to have a baby and I’m trying to give birth to this Halston project and uprooting myself to New York. It’s going to be fun, and I’m excited to finally work on a project with men’s fashion included. V thevitalVOICE.com
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September 2015
are a girl's best friend
Bring your partner to the ballpark for some pitching, catching and people watching at beautiful Busch Stadium. After the game, check out the action in Soulard, the Grove and the CWE. And raise a glass to the ‘Lou -- the city that The Advocate called “…the LGBT beacon of the Midwest.” Check out our impressive packages at explorestlouis.com/LGBT
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“THE GREATEST FEELING IN THE WORLD IS JUST BEING YOURSELF WITHOUT REGRETS.” 18
September 2015
MEETING text MALANA BRADFORD art DARIN SLYMAN
MISS GABBY
If you haven’t heard of Miss Gabby, you will soon. Gabriel Souza is an incredibly gorgeous Brazilian man who is making a name for himself in the fashion industry. For those who may be America’s Next Top Model fans, Miss Gabby is comparable to a new, better looking, Miss Jay Alexander.
S
ouza is currently working as a casting director, but in the past has been a scout and runway coach. “Going back, I would say I’ve been doing this off and on for the last seven years,” Souza says. “I honestly just started really putting the pedal to the gas, so to speak, in the last two years. I started out as a scout for RED and Ford Models in New York. Then, that got kind of monotonous and boring for me; I wanted to be the person who was calling the shots and saying, ‘Okay this is who’s going to go on the runway,’ instead of just bringing people into the agencies.” “I would say about three years ago I broke into casting,” Souza continues. “I started working with ACW Worldwide, which is a casting agency out of New York. My boss, Andrew Weir, kind of took me under his wing, and I was interning while getting a lot of hands-on experience. Like I said, within these last two years I kind of broke away from my internship and gained credibility as a casting director. I’m one of the youngest ones, I think, right now that is working with major designers and major brands.” Major designers and major brands is almost an understatement. Souza has worked with some of the biggest names in the industry. “I always get excited whenever I get a call from Balmain,” Souza says. “That’s like my number one client right now, working with Balmain and Oliver Rousteing. If I had to choose a second, I think my second would be Givenchy.” The life of a casting director, or really anyone in the fashion industry, is a busy one.Souza is anything but immune to this, but he’s good at keeping a balance. “A day-to-day for me can get pretty crazy, because when you think about it, as far as casting goes, I’m casting for New York Fashion Week, Paris and Milan, so I’m juggling all of those things and also various campaigns and magazines and stuff like that,” Souza explains. “So a day to day for me usually consists of me reaching out to agencies, going through a lot of photos of various models, familiarizing myself with these models and these brands and just making sure that I’m on top of my game honestly. That’s something big; I have to be knowledgeable about which models are hot, which models we want to put on the runway and so forth.”The crazy work schedule consists of many benefits and some downfalls as well. “The best thing is that I get to travel, I’ve been a lot of places,” Souza continues. “I’m always somewhere, I’m always traveling and I’ll meet like a thousand people in a month it seems. I know that sounds farfetched, but I’m being so serious when I say that. I just get to meet so many different people and come across so many different energies and make so many connections. I think that’s one of the great things about it. Also, I have a passion for what I do. So I never really feel like it’s work, because I love it.” Traveling is nothing new for Souza. He moved from Brazil to America at a very young age and hasn’t stopped exploring since. “I came to the states when I was five years old. I consider myself, of course, an American,” Souza says. “My hub city is Long Island, New York, but I do spend a lot of time also in St. Louis. I do have a place here, however I don’t call St. Louis home. I usually come back to St. Louis if something big is going on, or if I want to catch up with my friends there. Long Island is home, and I also stay in Chicago and LA as well.” Experiencing different cultures and living in many different places has played a role in Souza’s unique personal style and identity. “I am very gender non-conforming. Of course everyone knows that, but being a male that is definitely in touch with my feminine qualities and style is very expressive,” Souza explains. “I don’t follow the norm as far as fashion goes, and I think that the U.S. is moving in that direction too. You see male fashion becoming a little bit more metro, but my personal style is a reflection of me. I have a fun bubbly spirit; I do like nice things and designer things, but I pinpoint the fact that it’s very gender non-conforming.” “I think the European fashion scene has always kind of embraced that,” Souza continues. “The gender non-conforming thing is something Europeans have always had on lock, if you will. They’ve always kind of played and dabbled with that; here in the States, not so much. I feel that with marriage equality and people starting to embrace the gay culture and the gay community a bit more, it gives way for androgynous styles to come into play for males. I think a lot of designers in the next coming years will start to incorporate certain things that may be out of the norm for men’s fashion.” It’s a transformative time for fashion and style, and if anyone would know, it’s Miss Gabby. “I have a lot of LGBT youth that reach out to me,” Souza says. “And I just want to add this for anyone: the greatest feeling in the world is just being yourself without regrets. That’s how I’ve gotten to be at the happiest point of my life, by just being free and saying, ‘this is me, and if you don’t accept it, then excuse my French, but fuck you.’ Because LGBT youth reach out to me and ask, ‘how do you get to a level of comfort of expressing yourself the way that you do?’ By just saying, ‘this is me. And if you don’t like it, screw you.’ I just want to say to be you 100 percent. And of course, follow your dreams because everything is possible.” V
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Smoking rates amonth lesbians, gay men and bisexuls are nearly 51 percent higher than that of Source CA Health Interview Survey, CDHS/TCS fact sheet the general population. “The Toll of Tobacco on LGBT Smokers”
Scary statisitc? Let’s change it. Call us any time day or night to learn how to quit smoking or to avoid tobacco altogether. Or, volunteer to help make tobacco-related cancer a thing of the past in our community. The American Cancer Society is here to help. Contact us anytime, day or night, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, for cancer information and support. Free local programs and services include cancer support groups, transportation to and from cancer treatments, and cancer-prevention education, as well as volunteer opportunities. Volunteers support patients, advocate for research, raise funds for programs and services, and more.
Together, we can make a difference in the fight against cancer. 1.800.ACS.2345 / www.cancer.org / Hope.Progess.Answers. 20
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art: LINDBERGH
text PAULIE GIBSON
THE LINDBERGH MAN
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Lindbergh Shopping for apparel in Saint Louis can be the most fun... if you’re female. If you belong to the other half of the population, it can be an arduous, sad, labored activity. Luckily, however, Lindbergh has entered our stratosphere here in the Lou, with a flagship store in the Chesterfield Mall offering a collection of super cool, hyper-masculine clothes thoughtfully created to assist the “men who are interested in creating a wardrobe based on problem solving.” Well, aren’t we all? Loosely inspired by aviation and Charles Lindbergh, it makes perfect sense for St. Louis to house a brand whose foundation is built on a mix of essentials (denim, knits, outerwear, etc) and pairing them with stylized statement pieces to help a man confidently outfit himself for any and all the occasions he may encounter. In fact they appropriately break their collection down into three distinct labels for this very reason! Keeping it simple, we like it.
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The Black Label is the preppy and classic formal collection of Lindbergh. A label that contains all garment groups where the most essential ones are shirts, suits, jackets and knits. The label also contains a broad range of accessories to include socks, shoes and scarves. The Blue Label is the rugged and casual collection of Lindbergh. The look is signified by the inspiration of Americana – sporty and army clothing – combined with a vintage denim identity, designed with the highest industrial quality available with key emphasis on the working man. The White Label is the fashion formal collection of Lindbergh, with a look that reflects simplicity and coolness. The most dominat garment groups are shirts, suits, jackets and knits. Smart, right? This brand is clever in its simplicity, because these are clothes that are meant for all of us. Welcome Lindbergh, and good lookin’ out. V
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Saving celebs
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from
“Oh God!
Restaurant bathrooms, backseats of cars, behind the front desk of the Beverly Hilton — literally everywhere,” Brad Goreski says with a laugh. “Women’s bathroom stalls all over the world,” he adds, explaining some of the less glamorous locations where he’s had to style on the fly celebrities such as Jessica Alba, Demi Moore, Christina Ricci, Sarah Hyland, Reshia Jones and Lea Michelle. Goreski, a fashion stylist and lifestyle expert, is currently preparing for the new season of E!’s Fashion Police, which returns on Monday, August 31st. Known for his roles on the Bravo reality series It’s a Brad, Brad World, Goreski’s fashion career began as an intern working for Vogue. He describes his time there as a far cry from scenes conjured up in The Devil Wears Prada. “Everybody was so kind to me there,” he says. “I’m still really good friends with a lot of the editors I worked with. The fashion industry can be tough, but it’s also filled with a lot of cool, really nice people.” His advice for those who want to carve a path in the fashion industry?
bad style
“Allow yourself to start at the bottom,” he begins. “When I was interning, there wasn’t social media, there wasn’t reality TV - all these things that make it seem like, ‘Oh, I can just skip a bunch of steps.’” “There’s something to be said for people who work their way up,” he continues. “I spent years packing FedEx boxes, taking out garbage and getting Jamba Juice for my bosses. When you’ve done all that crappy work, it makes you better when you go out on your own, and I feel like I continue to get better every year.” And getting better is something Brad has mastered, from red carpet to fall trends. Vital VOICE caught up with the style guru on all things fashion. . thevitalVOICE.com
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The Red Carpet
also the time that my clients get really excited because they get to dress up in these amazing gowns and we have a lot of fun doing that.
What’s your favorite red carpet event to cover?
Which style do you think is easier to pull off?
I love the music awards shows because you get the iconic women like Rihanna and Miley Cyrus, and you also get a lot of selfexpression. Within the music industry, there’s much more license to do something that’s out of the box, which I really like. But sometimes it doesn’t look so great but it’s very in-tune with the person’s brand, so it can be fun to analyze those looks and break them down.
There are two sides to that. It’s not easier to pull off a red carpet look because you obviously want your client to be on the bestdressed look or to be one of the photographs that runs in all the magazines. It’s pretty; it’s like, it’s a gown. You just have to find the best gown.
Favorites aside, what do you think is the biggest event to cover? Definitely the Oscars. I mean, that’s like an international, worldwide event. All eyes are kind of on that red carpet. What is your proudest red carpet moment? One of the biggest is Sarah Hyland at this past years Emmys. She wore a custom made, Christian Siriano bright orange ball skirt and white crop top. It was something that came together rather quickly and easily, and she fell in love with it. It became a look that is now being knocked off in department stores as a go-to prom look for girls, so something like that was cool to be involved in. I loved what I put Jenna Dewan Tatum in for the Oscars and the Vanity Fair party. She wore two Zuhair Murad dresses; one was the good angelic, and then her after party dress was naughty dominatrix. So it was two sides of her personality in one night. How does it feel knowing that you have influence in stores knocking off looks you created? The thing is, I don’t know. You just set out to create the best look for your client. Sarah came to me in that moment and was like, ‘I really want to wear orange to the Emmys,’ and so that is what we came up with. I remember the night of [the Emmys] I posted a picture of it on my Instagram, and people were freaking out. It’s cool when you work really hard and things are really well received, and you can kind of see a shift in your client’s style. To make an impact on something that becomes copied is kind of a great thing. Having people copy your style or things that you’ve helped create is the biggest form of flattery. Would you consider yourself more inclined toward red carpet styling or street style in that regard? I do everything. A lot of my clients don’t really do street style looks, but I’ll help them put together looks that aren’t red carpet so when they’re doing press appearances to promote difference projects, those looks can be just as interesting or you can really tap into what your client’s style is in those looks. But my favorite is the big red carpet looks; I love gowns, I love jewelry, and that’s 28
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When you’re doing a press look it’s like, ‘What is it going to be? Are we going to do a jumpsuit? Are we going to do separates? Are we going to do a cool jeans look with high heels?’ So you have to have a lot of variety and a lot of scope to keep their press tour looking interesting and also fashion forward. I think actually giving your clients a fashion forward, relaxed, cool vibe for press appearances is harder than doing the big red carpet.
Trends & Fashion Are there any current trends that you can’t stand? I don’t know. Whenever I say there’s a trend I can’t stand, I end up putting it on one of my clients. I end up jinxing myself that way. So if I tell you I’m sick of illusion dresses, the next thing you’ll see is one of my clients in an illusion dress. So I try to steer clear of that one, because I usually end up putting my foot in my mouth. What about something that is new but has the staying power to become more than just a trend? I think all of us were surprised when the crop top was popping up everywhere. I remember one of my clients saying, ‘I want to where a crop top,’ and I was like ‘Really? You want to wear a crop top on the red carpet?’ And then it’s become the trend. I put my clients in it all the time and it won’t go away, and I don’t really want it to. Fashion is so fluid now, because there are so many seasons and so many collections that you’re okay working with anything because there’s so much going on. You’re always kind of working some sort of trend in one way or another. I mean colors have been a big trend— flowers, florals, illusion dresses have been around a bunch of seasons now. That’s kind of like Jennifer Lopez’s go-to. We saw the competition of booty in illusion dresses at the Met Ball with Kim Kardashian and Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez. I think trends kind of come and go, but they pop up a lot more quickly than they used to. What trends are you looking forward to for fall? I just bought myself two fringe jackets, so I’m really looking forward to fringe— I’m very into the idea of it. It’s not really
Bohemian, but there’s something about it I’m really loving, so you’ll probably see some of my clients in fringe soon.
I know you can’t spill who’s in the line-up, but how about any dream guests?
Speaking of jackets, do you still have the vintage Dior trench coat you bought in Paris on The Rachel Zoe Project?
I loved it last season [when] we had Gigi Hadid on. She was a really fun, really honest guest. I think what makes a really good guest is someone who’s super opinionated, isn’t afraid to express themselves and really loves the show and franchise and wants to have some fun breaking down red carpet looks.
That’s hilarious! I do still have that jacket. You want to know something though? I’ve had that for seven years now and I haven’t worn it to anything. Do you just not like it? It’s a leather Dior trench! It’s a great piece, but it’s hard in LA. I’m a jacket fanatic. I just bought a Tom Ford motorcycle jacket with fringe and a long Balmain jacket with leather sleeves and I’m like, ‘Where am I wearing these?’ But you’ve inspired me to pull it out; maybe I’ll bust it out and put a few looks together with it.”
Fashion Police What can we expect with the new season of Fashion Police? We’re back with Melissa Rivers, Giuliana and myself. You can expect all of the great things that Fashion Police is known for: a really fun hour talking about fashion, celebrities, pop culture and really breaking down the latest red carpet looks — what’s good and what’s not so good. Mixing it up, this season you’re going to have a floating celebrity guest. Correct. The fourth chair will be occupied by somebody new each week. That will keep it fresh, really interesting, and every week you’ll have a new character as well, which is always welcome.
So it’s not so much knowing about fashion as having a strong opinion? Yeah, I don’t know if that’s necessary. It’s usually a celebrity guest, so they have a pretty good grasp on what it takes to put a look together for the red carpet and be in front of cameras. They can offer a really interesting perspective, being the people that are out there on a continual basis. You don’t necessarily have to be involved in fashion. You have to love fashion, but it’s all about being as honest as you can be and not being afraid to disagree with other people on the panel. Melissa Rivers has always been a producer of the series. This season she’ll be in front of the camera. How do you think it will work with her moving in front of the camera? She is incredibly funny and obviously she knows the show really well. She has a good eye, an eye that is different than mine. So I think it will be great that me, Giuliana and Melissa have different points of view, and we’re very affirmative on our beliefs so I think it will make for a very interesting show. We’re back and we’re ready. v text JIMMY NO SHOW art CHRISTOPHER POLK & BRIAN BOWEN SMITH
Fashion Police Returns to E! | Monday, August 31 at 8/7c thevitalVOICE.com
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THEY'RE HERE... ARE YOU READY?
Narrated by Simon Pegg
Promotional Partners:
slsc.org/robotsvv
Visit the galleries at Craft Alliance Center of Art + Design
Speaking With Threads Jane Sauer, Curator On view through October 25 Presented in conjunction with Innovations in Textiles 10, a regional collaborative event celebrating fiber art
Open through September 27 Tickets are available at the Art Museum, through MetroTix or by phone at 314.534.1111. Free on Fridays. This exhibition has been organized by the Cleveland Museum of Art with the support of the National Endowment for the Arts. Education Programs supported by The Dana Brown Charitable Trust, U.S. Bank, Trustee. Financial support has been provided by the Missouri Arts Council, a state agency. Unidentified artist: Bird Figure (detail), ex-Bohumil Holas; wood; height: 54 5/16 inches; Private collection; Photo: Jon Lamm
Open Tuesday–Sunday, Always Free slam.org/Senufo
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A Jewelry Trunk Show in the Delmar Gallery Shop September 10-13 And affordable to luxurious gifts by local and national artists in jewelry, clay, glass, fiber, and wood.
Gallery & Shop Hours: T-TH: 10-5 | F-S: 10-6 | Sun: 11-5 Always free and open to the public
More information at craftalliance.org 6640 Delmar Blvd | St. Louis, MO 63130 314.725.1177 ext. 322 artwork pictured by Benji Whalen
House of
Attitudes
text CHRIS ANDOE art DARIN SLYMAN
“This house was a prison,” begins Jim Washek, who along with his partner Randy Oppold, bought one of the most famous homes in the LGBT community: the longtime residence of Attitudes Nightclub owners Jan & Bonnie.
“It sat vacant for close to two years,” says Washek. “The pool was like a swamp. The last few feet was nothing but muck, like gelled sludge. It had become a mosquito cesspool and neighbors were tossing chlorine and bleach into it.”
On a prominent corner of Tower Grove’s coveted Utah Place, the three-story home featured the club’s trademark stiletto heel logo on both an octagon dormer window, and iconically emblazoned on the bottom of the pool. For well over a decade Jan & Bonnie hosted legendary parties at the home. But all that changed January of 2013, when two masked men familiar with their business operations broke in through the basement and held them captive at gunpoint, taking thousands in cash, jewelry, a cell phone and the keys to the nightclub, which they also robbed.
They took me on a tour of the exquisite property, with its original ornate woodwork and dazzling stained glass windows, and pointed to an area below the basement staircase where they believe the former owners were held. “The door looked like it was kicked apart from the inside,” says Oppold. “It’s a very sad story, what happened to Jan & Bonnie.”
After the horrific ordeal, the women went to extreme measures to feel safe, installing bars on all windows in the basement and first floor, configuring the basement where you had to go through three steel doors to enter from the outside and adding deadbolt locks on every interior door. “If there had been a fire they couldn’t have gotten out,” Oppold begins, “and the garden was like a prison yard with 10,000 watt halogen lights everywhere. They even installed razor wire atop the 8ft fence, but the city made them take it down.” Despite all of their efforts, just weeks later a burglar climbed the porch and entered through a second floor window, again robbing them at gunpoint, and again walking away with thousands in cash. “We never spent another night in that house,” Jan told me during a brief interview last year. They listed the property for over half a million, but due to the deferred maintenance and outdated appointments it didn’t sell, and they let it go into foreclosure.
Over the past year they’ve been meticulously rehabbing the home, from new eves to resolving moisture issues in the basement, and are doing much of the work themselves, which they consider a labor of love. “This house is special because it’s the first house that we have truly rebuilt together. It represents us as a couple more than any place we have lived before,” says Washek. There are still a few signs of the old prison yard, including eight or ten pole mounted halogen lights that have yet to be removed. But the once swampy pool is now sparkly and inviting, and many potted plants are thriving. “We bought these banana trees at Jan & Bonnie’s estate sale,” Washek says, “And they’ve come home.” While they’re putting their own mark on the house, and plan to donate the stiletto heel window to the St. Louis LGBT History Project, they express reverence for its history, saying friends and acquaintances have shared their fond memories of good times at the house, and they’re happy about maintaining that tradition. “Jan & Bonnie entertained so many people here, and I’m glad the house is staying in the family,” Washek says. V thevitalVOICE.com
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Felicia Shaw: RAC In the heart of the Loop sits the most important building to an aspiring artist in St. Louis. The Regional Arts Commission of St. Louis (RAC) has dedicated their services to the advancement of arts of all forms and their artists, as well as the support of St. Louis and its art as a whole. They help bring to light the many creative and beautiful aspects of St. Louis’ arts. “The Regional Arts Commission is a 30-year-old local arts agency,” Felicia Shaw, Executive Director of RAC, says. “Basically our purpose is a funder. We don’t produce or present any programming. We are a primarily philanthropic organization that receives one hundred percent of our funding from government.” Concerning how they affect St. Louis, Shaw was very proud to say, “We’ve been very influential here in St. Louis, supporting on average more than 250 arts and cultural organizations and programs annually, and supporting their efforts- really investing in the cultural life of St. Louis.” Shaw was appointed the Executive Director of RAC in May, 2015. Originally from St. Louis, Shaw moved to San Diego, but decided to move back to St. Louis for a very touching reason. “I was born and raised here but when I went away to college, I decided to move from St. Louis to San Diego,” Shaw says. “I followed love. My fiancé at that time was drafted by the San Diego Chargers, and he asked me to marry him. So I made a life in California. I eventually landed a position with the San Diego Arts Commission where I spent 17 years there in arts administration before joining the San Diego Foundation, which is a community foundation.” “After that, I was thinking about what I wanted to do with my life next. I was really seriously considering it, and then Ferguson happened,” Shaw continues. “Even after being gone for so long, I still had an emotional connection to St. Louis. When I was watching television, I was transfixed with what was going on, horrified to see people who looked like me running in and out of stores, raiding stores; I was so embarrassed. After that, after I got a chance to listen to people and hear what they were saying, and why they were so upset with the Michael Brown shooting. I was sad, mainly because some of the things they were saying were the same things that made me feel like I needed to leave St. Louis in the first place. I felt that St. Louis wasn’t progressive, and it’s still so racially segregated. Then to hear this in 2014, to hear the same things going on, I was really, really disgusted by it.”
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“But then after that, after having all those feelings, I had a tremendous sense of guilt because no matter how I felt about what happened, sad or angry, I left,” Shaw explains. “I began to think about, ‘what can I do to help?’ I mean, what could I do to help when I was so far away in California? And then as things would have it, the stars were in alignment, I guess. I learned that Jill McGuire, who had been in this position for 30 years, was retiring. Shortly after, I was contacted by an executive search firm who asked me if I was interested in the position, and it seemed obvious that this was my opportunity to go back- to leave San Diego and come home to St. Louis and see if I can make a difference.” As inspiring as she is, being very recently appointed Executive Director, Shaw feels she has some very big shoes to fill. However, she has insightful ideas for the future of the organization. “Jill McGuire was the previous executive director, and the Commission said, ‘Great job Jill, but now let’s see how we can build on the legacy that you’ve created and take this organization to the next level,’” Shaw says. “So what I’m looking at is how do we leverage the $6.2 million that we receive annually from the tax base and grow the arts community; particularly in ways that promote more community based organizations and those that are serving the under resourced, while still investing in our larger regional organizations as well.” It’s a very big responsibility for anyone, especially when working in a big city, but Shaw maintains an air of confidence about her. “It’s a big task, because you don’t want to destabilize what you already have,” Shaw explains. “But certainly when you look out over the landscape at what’s happening here in St. Louis, not just since the Ferguson incident, but just looking at some of our neighborhoods that have not had any investment. They don’t have access to the arts as culture, and there is a lack of vitality and vibrancy. I think that is a huge role for the arts to play in terms of social change and civic engagement. So I’m interested in seeing what I can do to lead the organization in that direction and see if we can make it better.” It seems that the board chose wisely in their decision to appoint Shaw. Along with her new and inventive ideas, RAC still has all of its usual services such as artists’ workshops, grants and providing free event space for artists. RAC differs from the ArtsKC in Kansas City in that RAC does not present arts or have events. Instead, they fund the plethora of arts agencies that operate in St. Louis. For more information about RAC programs and services check out their website at racstl.org. V text CURTIS GALLOWAY art REGIONAL ARTS COMMISSION OF ST. LOUIS
A community with strong influence from the arts has more jobs, more tax revenue, stabilizes property value and brings better tourism that brings millions of dollars to the local economy.
Godrey Riddle: ArtsKC For all art lovers and budding artist out in Kansas City, ArtsKC is the organization to connect with. The ArtsKC Regional Arts Council, much like the St. Louis Regional Arts Commission, has dedicated their services to furthering art in all forms. Located at 106 Southwest Blvd in the Crossroads District, ArtsKC provides grants to exceptional artists, arts programs and arts organizations throughout the five-county metropolitan area, fully investing in the entire arts community in Kansas City. ArtsKC is similar to United Arts Funds across the country in that the funds for ArtsKC are supported in many different ways. 50% of the ArtsKC Fund comes from Workplace Giving Campaigns, while the remaining 50% is raised through businesses, corporate and national foundations, support from local government agencies and individual donors. After a campaign, the Arts Council works with a panel of community volunteers to distribute the funds. The funds are divided into three categories: Ovation Grants, Catalyst Grants, and Inspiration Grants. Ovation Grants are awarded to firmly established not-for-profit arts organizations with broad reach and impact throughout the KC metropolitan area. All recipients serve the region with performances, programs and exhibitions that have a combined annual attendance of more than two million audience members. Catalyst Grants are awarded, either for operations or programs, both to established arts organizations, and to other non-profits such as social service agencies that use arts programming. Inspiration Grants are awarded to individual artists and arts professionals for projects or career development. According to ArtsKC Development Manager, Godfrey Riddle, Now Showing is one of the most popular services provided by ArtsKC. “It’s a program meant to create relationships between individual artists and businesses,” Riddle says. “Through that relationship, artists display their work in the conference rooms, lobbies and office spaces of local companies.” The partnership helps the artist to be exposed to the public, and helps the company become exposed to new elements of creativity and inspiration. ArtsKC prides itself on its ability to bring communities together and help them all around.
Not only that, but ArtsKC pushes for art in the education field. Students who have studied arts or music have been shown to score higher on SATs. What’s more, art strongly supports creativity, lateral thinking and problem solving, which are key skills to being economically stable. “We really believe the arts enrich the community, and also enrich the community you choose to call home,” Riddle explains. Not only that, but ArtsKC pushes for art in the education field. Students who have studied arts or music have been shown to score higher on SAT’s. What’s more, art strongly supports creativity, lateral thinking and problem solving, which are key skills to being economically stable. “We really believe the arts enrich the community, and also enrich the community you choose to call home,” Riddle explains. Along with services, ArtsKC also hosts a variety of events, such as Cirque Under the Stars on September 10th. This event takes place at the Starlight Theatre, and will to bring an evening of daring stunts, circus acts, and urban dance at Cirque Eloize iD. Food will be available as well as cocktails. For those who like to know the inner workings of a show, a backstage tour will be given to early guests. On October 22, ArtsKC will be holding their Inspiration Breakfast, also at the Starlight Theatre. This event teaches how the ArtsKC’s mission and programs release the inner power of the arts for the benefit of the Kansas City region. 600 guests will hear from Honorary Chairman Bobby Epsten, Event Chairpersons Brad Douglas and Arzie Umali, and the featured textile artist Debbie Barrett-Jones about her use of fiber arts as healing. Also coming up soon is the Art in the Chiefs Kingdom on Wednesday, November 11, at Arrowhead Stadium. This event commemorates the Arrowhead Stadium’s renovation in 2010 that in turn built the Arrowhead Art Collection. Guests will be treated with hors d’oeuvres and cocktails and will be able to view some of the artists whose works were chosen for the collection. ArtsKC is working hard to keep the arts strong in Kansas City. With art and music programs being cut from schools due to budget issues around the country, it is clear that more organizations like ArtsKC need to be supported. Check out artskc.org to learn more about how you can get involved with the organization. V text CURTIS GALLOWAY art AJ BROWN
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TWILIGHT
TUESDAYS AMEREN CONCERT SERIES
FALL 2015
Tuesday, August 25 Broseph E. Lee Band (country rock) Tuesday, September 1 Cheryl Brown and Friends present an R&B Tribute Tuesday, September 8 Miss Jubilee presents the Sounds of Swing Music
MISSOURI HISTORY MUSEUM
Tuesday, September 15 The Jackson 5 Tribute
·
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6pm to 8pm FREE Museum’s Front Lawn Forest Park mohistory.org
Featuring STL’s best food trucks!
Tuesday, September 22 Jeremiah Allen and Friends present a Tribute to Stevie Wonder Tuesday, September 29 The Fabulous Motown Revue No barbecue grills, tents, large umbrellas, or unauthorized solicitation In the event of inclement weather, call (800) 916-8212 after 3pm, or listen to iHeartMedia radio stations.
EXPERIENCE SANTECHASE.COM
7 DAYS FOR FREE!
212 N. KINGSHIGHWAY BLVD. ST.LOUIS, MO 63108
(314) 633-3020
Historic North Main Street, St. Charles, Missouri
Friday, September 18th 4 - 9pm Saturday, September 19th 11- 9pm Sunday, September 20th 11- 5pm
Children’s Village & Art for Youth Saturday, September 19th 12 - 5pm Sunday, September 20th 12 - 5pm The Children’s Village & Art for Youth Gallery are sponsored by Mercy Kids.
Entertainment Air Lifter Brass, Connor Low & Race Simmons, Coyote Variety Band, The 4th Street Band, Jessie Phillips & Danny Simms, St. Charles Jazz Band, St. Charles High School Orchestra (SCORCH), 2nd Gear, The Blanchette Trio www.stcharlesmosaics.org Mosaicsartfestival@gmail.com thevitalVOICE.com thevitalVOICE.com
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ARCHITECTURE WARS SHOWDOWN IN THE SHOW ME STATE text KEVIN SCHMIDT ART VISIT KC
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MISSOURI: Adventurers periodically pass through on excursions and vacations, while most all travelers fly over the state when hopping from coast to coast. But for nearly six million pure Midwesterners, it’s simply home. Be it big city slickers or small town dwellers, most Americans are familiar with our state when they hear terms like “Missouri Compromise,” “The Pony Express” and “The Gateway to the West.” It’s where the rooted cultural attitudes of the eastern United States start to blend with the fresh adventurous spirit of western exploration. More poignantly, it’s seen in the varying design and layout of our two largest cities: Kansas City and St. Louis. St. Louis, the “big brother” of the two, was planned in the more traditional and conservative style when it comes to design and architecture. Kansas City, being the younger, “rebellious” sibling, takes an adventurous approach. And while this is distinguishable in how the cities simply look in a photo, it is also comparable to the mindset of the community as a whole, and how it is choosing to either embrace or reinvent its own identity in a world where the modern city has no bounds to ever stop evolving. When it comes to talking Missouri architecture, there’s no better expert on the subject than Andy Trivers. The St. Louis-based retired architect has long been committed to building on the city’s rich architectural history, focusing on adaptive reuse, historic rehabilitation and new construction projects that improve the urban condition. “I think what happened is that when the cities were founded, St. Louis had these major companies and they didn’t want to have to build up the city that much as it would build up the labor market,” Trivers says. “Talking about the Anheuser Busch’s and so on. A lot of the newer cities created infrastructure and invited new businesses into the city. But in cities like St. Louis, Baltimore and Cleveland, there are a lot of old families who didn’t want to invite new businesses in, as it would drive up labor costs.” The aftereffect in St. Louis was a condensed inner city with a traditional French colonialstyle layout. People in power wanted to keep it conservative and keep it in control. That led to a classical sense of style when it came to architecture. French Colonial, German, early American and European-influenced architecture prevailed in the bustling trading hub. And while traditional may seem mundane to some, the buildings constructed with these styles of architecture are what St.
Louis is most known for today. Buildings such as the Old Post Office downtown. “It was a significant architectural advancement at the time,” Trivers says. “It’s Second Empire architectural style, which is the same style that Napoleon III rebuilt Paris in during the last half of the 19th century. The double hipped roof- it’s a very significant building, as the only other one like it is the Old Executive Office Building in Washington D.C.” While the Old Post Office is one example of that ancestral, east-coast style city, St. Louis prides itself on its modern interpretations of classical architecture. City Hall, for example, was constructed in Renaissance Revival style, and is a beautiful example of Italian inspiration. The Neo-Byzantine influence of the Cathedral Basilica St. Louis dominates the Central West End in stunning fashion. They are beautifully constructed buildings nestled within the city among, well, other older buildings. Even structures like the Eagleton U.S. Courthouse downtown and Busch Stadium are relatively newer buildings, but still with a timeless, classic look. “St. Louis is more of a ‘bedroom community,’” Trivers explains. “People like the fact that the world is your city, but when you come here everyone knows your name. So you don’t have to put on any airs as it is a different dynamic. And as a result, there is not much interest in creating new and exciting architecture.” Exciting may not be the way to describe St. Louis architecture today, but it still catches your eye in one way or another, Of course there is the Wainwright Building- the structure itself was a marvel at the time, paving the way for buildings to be able to use their exteriors as “veneers” and allowing then to be more decorative. “It allowed buildings to soar more,” Trivers says. To add a personalized touch to a generic steel structure was something significant in architectural history. And then there’s the Gateway Arch, the iconic landmark that gave the city its “postcard-worthy” status. The Jefferson National Expansion Memorial did wonders for St. Louis, but it certainly set the city on a path as to how it was going to move forward with downtown development. “St. Louis lost a lot of its history when it tore down for the Arch grounds,” Trivers explains. “Our French Quarter, the original downtown settlement, was destroyed to make way for the Memorial. I think that’s why St. Louis is considered to be such an
eastern city, in that it tore town a lot of its history. A lot of eastern cities have torn down a lot of their historic architecture.” Any St. Louisan knows what happens next, although suburban sprawl started long before the Gateway Arch was ever opened to the public. And while technologies such as the automobile, the Interstate Highway System and that damned white picket fence have all negatively affected the very core of most all American cities, St. Louis struggles to maintain an accessible and livable downtown to this day. “When talking about the urban center, St. Louis does not have many public spaces,” Trivers says. “We have a beautiful botanical gardens, but not urban spaces for people to retreat. Whereas, in Kansas City, there is a history of these outdoor spaces. Places like Country Club Plaza, where they have these gardens, fountains and these public spaces.” Country Club Plaza is a focal point of Kansas City’s layout, reflecting classical Spanish influences and including more than 30 statues, murals and tile mosaics on display in the area. This kind of wellthought-out urban planning is a historical innovation that resonates as a modern and world-class public space to this day. Kansas City, America’s first Western city, was settled by fur trappers coming from St. Louis and heading out along the Missouri River. These were the people that were exploring the West, the kind of people that embraced the pioneer spirit and spurred Kansas City to be the rapid success it became. The city started out as an unpretentious 1820s trading post that soon emerged into a ripe and rugged frontier town. But after the Civil War ended, the town set its sights on becoming a more modern one. The last decades of the 19th century were a time of prosperity that brought new and exciting architectural styles, resulting in a number of iconic Kansas City buildings including the New York Life Building, the city’s first skyscraper built in Renaissance Revival style. Kansas City boomed in the early 20th century as well, mostly under the Pendergast regime. Fueled by Pendergast’s Read-Mix concrete, the construction boom took off, with the architecture reflecting the thenmodern art deco style. It was a progressive (yet still corrupt) time for the city. Notable skyscrapers such as the Power and Light Building and the Oak Tower solidified themselves into the city’s skyline, both a solid reflection of the dramatic terra cotta and gothic styles. thevitalVOICE.com
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Post Office Plaza
Busch Stadium
City Hall
Kauffman Center
Country Club
Sprint Center
Nelson-Atkins Museum
KANSAS CITY
Old Post Office
“For Kansas City today, it’s more experimental and cutting edge in design,” Trivers says. “The Kauffman Center, for example, could you see them doing that in St. Louis? That’s a great example of the forward thinking mentality in the city.” Another substantial example of this is the Nelson Atkins Museum of Art, where you observe a cohesive blend of the Beaux Arts themes of the original 1930s building with the modern addition added in 2007. That ability to be able to embrace the past without being stuck in it is what defines Kansas Citians as true pioneers to this day. “The Sprint Center, and even the Power and Light District are others,” Trivers continues. “[Power and Light] is similar to Ballpark Village in St. Louis, but it is more part of the city, whereas Ballpark Village is more of just an extension of the ballpark. It’s not like they came into the streets and rebuilt the streets like they did in the Power and Light district. [Ballpark Village] is more of a rehabbed warehouse.” “For St. Louis, we have a history of rehabilitation,” Trivers says in closing. “But we have run out those buildings to rehabilitate, which leads to the opportunity for new construction. Filling in the gaps in construction with something new. That bodes well for St. Louis, and for cities in general.” 40
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The smartest move for St. Louis now is to blend the old-minded traditions that are reflected in the city’s known architecture with the forward-minded thinking of a younger, fresh generation that yearns to take part on the international stage. Fortunately for St. Louis, there is this younger population that is coming back into the city. They’re coming, but they’re coming with demands: demands for innovation, open-mindedness and something new, along with a desire for spaces, amenities and these meeting places that Kansas City has already established for themselves. Old Post Office Plaza, CityGarden and the CityArchRiver projects are good examples of proper urban planning in downtown St. Louis today. It’s an optimistic approach, but it will take time.
It may be scary, but it’s exciting at the same time. You talk to many St. Louisans and they will refer to the ‘heydays’ of the city- the times when it was at its greatest. Times like the 1904 World’s Fair, the once booming garment industry and the original birthplace of the pioneer spirit. That spirit has moved well west now, saturating
Kansas City along the way. And as that “big brother, little brother” mentality seems to be fading somewhere along the I-70 corridor, a heavy dose of humility may be just what the doctor has ordered for the Lou. Take a lesson from what the younger brother is doing. Being able to be forward-thing, taking a chance and getting out of a “bedroom city” state of mind will garner the attention “I think what it all boils down to is that St. the city deserves. St. Louis can’t rely on Louis is more conservative than Kansas City,” the stainless steel splendor of the Arch Trivers says. “What it expects in terms of forever. design and creativity is different than what you will find in Kansas City. St. Louis, being the older, more stayed community, whereas Kansas City, it’s still more of an entrepreneur; that spirit without the older families, and the older money of St. Louis.” The need for change has been a topic of discussion and debate for the majority of St. Louisans, especially over the course of the past year. Change is new, yet liberating.
In 1899, Rep. Willard D. Vandiver delivered his acclaimed quote which produced Missouri’s longstanding nickname: “Frothy eloquence neither convinces nor satisfies me. I’m from Missouri. You’ve got to show me.” We’ve shown the world what we could do. Now it’s time to show what we can do moving forward. V
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Saint Louis
FASH IS FOUND AGAIN
To say that St. Louis is proud of its history is an understatement. We have been the first of many historical and monumental moments and movements. During the 1890s to the late 1950s, we were at the top of the game in an industry that is making a huge comeback: Textiles and garment manufacturing. Throughout the late 30s and 40s, St. Louis was one of the largest needle trade contributors in the country, second only to New York City. During this time, we created musthave fashion pieces that were coveted worldwide. Our city was the center of manufacturing for junior sizes; every little girl all over the world wanted a dress tailored in St. Louis. The boom in that time affected everything. According to historical records, over the course of just a handful of years, the number of garment workers in our fair city exploded from 1,200 to just over 6,000. Between the years of 1934 and 1949, the number of women’s clothing manufacturers
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tripled, and the total sales volume spiked from 20 million to more than 85 million dollars. We were a force to be reckoned with. The 50s hit us hard though, and manufacturing moved to small towns. We were not a union city, so the jobs went south to union-ran areas. Discount stores started popping up all over, not to mention the opening of interstates, the dawn of computers and the foreign import boom. Downtown St. Louis started shutting down; jobs were lost and our powerful garment industry fell to its knees. Saint Louis Fashion Fund, established in May 2014, recently received its new non-profit status and is about to change all of that. Led by a 42-member Board of Directors, leaders in higher education, culture, business, law and fashion all driven by the same purpose, they are motivated to reclaim our heritage in the fashion industry. “We started in the basement of Winslow’s home with a group of retailers, art patrons, a few business people, all who were interested in bringing the business of fashion back to St. Louis,” Susan Sherman, Chair, Saint Louis Fashion Fund Board Of Directors says. They asked the question, “How can we make St. Louis relevant again, a place where fashion is important?” Caleres Emerging Designer Award, presented by Saint Louis Fashion Fund, is just one avenue they are using. Caleres awards $25,000 to the winner, but the industry’s reward is all about the process
of finding worthy contestants. On November 4, Caleres and Saint Louis Fashion Fund will present a runway presentation featuring the Five Emerging Designer Finalists’ lines before an audience of 1,000 as part of Saint Louis Fashion Week’s 12th season. The winning designer receives a cash prize, mentorship from industry professionals and the production of one item from their collection, with sales to benefit the Fashion Fund. “The Caleres Emerging Designer Award creates a pipeline of talent we hope to draw from for the new Fashion Incubator,” Tania Beasley-Jolly, Marketing Director for Saks Fifth Avenue and Emerging Designer Chair of the Fashion Fund Board says. “We are looking forward to these designers’ contributions to the City of St. Louis. They will work with the local design community, with students, and will serve as Ambassadors for Fashion in the broader community. It is our hope that several of them will choose to remain here and build important businesses.” The launch of Fashion Week is November 4th, and the five finalists this year are: Julie Haus and Jason Alkire (Haus Alkire), Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta (Eckhaus Latta), Azede Jean-Pierre (Azede Jean-Pierre), Katharine Polk (Houghton) and Jordana Warmflash (NOVIS). Jurors include: James LaForce, CEO of LaForce+Stevens; Fern Mallis, international fashion and design consultant; Tomoko Ogura, Barneys New York Fashion Director; Deb Bass, Fashion Editor of
HION the Saint Louis Post-Dispatch; designer Lisa Perry and co-CEO of Hilldun Corporation and InterLuxe chairman Gary Wassner. While prestigious and certainly vied for, the Caleres Emerging Designer Award is just the beginning. Saint Louis Fashion Fund is currently working on something more sustainable to our fashion community as a whole: A Fashion Incubator. Set to open in late 2016 in the backdrop where it all began on Washington Avenue, its downtown area location is still to be announced. For several years, the community was exploring the opening of a Saint Louis Fashion Incubator, similar to those in New York, Chicago, Philadelphia and San Francisco. “St. Louis is ready to jump start a vibrant fashion eco-system, beginning with the Fashion Incubator on Washington Avenue, a center for design and fashion entrepreneurs,” explains Sherman. “The Incubator will also serve the local design community and offer education and outreach to the community at large.” The mission of the Fashion Incubator of Saint Louis is to turn creative, talented fashion designers into successful Saint Louis entrepreneurs by providing the space to live, work, create and manufacture their lines.
Fund
The space will nurture and mentor six designers-in-residence at a time, providing the support, tools and resources needed to establish and grow on their own. That support will include studio space, workshops and ongoing opportunities to showcase their lines through a multitude of mediums, events and venues, exposing them to key industry professionals from all over the world. The Saint Louis Fashion Incubator works with the Sam Fox School of Design and Visual Arts and the Olin School of Business at Washington University in St. Louis on programming for the Incubator. Other partners include Downtown St. Louis and Caleres, who support the annual Emerging Designer Award, Atul Kamra, former Head of Advice at Wells Fargo Advisors, Elizabeth Tucker of St. Louis Fashion Week and ALIVE Magazine, Sharon Tucci of Talent Plus and Pat Whitaker, Founder and Chair of Arcturis. Though it may seem sometimes that the glory days are behind us, our city - as a fashion icon - is still sitting there on a shelf somewhere downtown. Time to dust her off, put her in a new gown and showcase her for all the world to see. Our amazing fashion institution didn’t go anywhere; she was just waiting for her close up. Cheers to rediscovering her potential.
Saint Louis Fashion Fund supports Lift for Life Academy’s fashion program, the Missouri History Museum’s conservation of period gowns, the Pins and Needles Fashion Show and Award and other important fashion and design initiatives in St. Louis. Don’t miss out on the Caleres Emerging Designer Runway Presentation and Fund Gala on November 4, honoring Iris Apfel, Paul Dillinger and Jeigh Singleton. Tickets are $500. V
For all information about The Saint Louis Fashion fund and other upcoming events check out saintlouisfashionfund.org text KARLA TEMPLETON ART SAINT LOUIS FASHION FUND
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PLAYDATES SAINT LOUIS
Larry Krone: The Selling Sound of Country Music projects+gallery - TheVitalVoice.com 9/10 Join Pearl Vodka & Vital VOICE Magazine in welcoming St. Louisan Larry Krone home for the opening of his new exhibit at projects+gallery. Pick up the Design Issue of Vital VOICE Magazine and enjoy signature cocktails by Pearl Vodka while Larry showcases his latest works.
The Full Monty STAGES St. Louis - Stagesstlouis.org 9/4-10/4 With razor-sharp humor and toe-tapping pizzazz, The Full Monty is musical theatre at its most heart-warming. Boasting a sizzling score from David Yazbek, and a laugh a minute script by Terrence McNally, you’ll want to drop everything and join us for The Full Monty!
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Pedal The Cause Chesterfield Ampitheatre Stlouis.pedalthecause.org 9/26-27 Pedal the Cause, a cycling event that raises funds to support cancer research at Siteman Cancer Center and St. Louis Children’s Hospital, is back this month. One hundred percent of funds raised by participants pass through Pedal the Cause and go to a variety of cancer research projects at Siteman Cancer Center and St. Louis Children’s Hospital.
The Andrew Patrick Jazz Band Lilly’s Music & Social House - 9/11 LillysSTL.com
The Legend Of Zelda: Symphony of the Goddesses Powell Hall - 9/11-13 Stlsymphony.org
Jon Lovitz Lumiere Live - 9/12 Lumiereplace.com
Nick Jonas The Pageant - 9/15 Thepageant.com
Just John Night at the Ballpark W/ Pride StL Just John/Busch Stadium - 9/25
Last Comic Standing River City Casino - 9/25 Rivercity.com
Brownpapertickets.com
sTL Scottish Games Spirit of St. Louis Airpark - 9/25-26 Stlouis-scottish games.com
ZZ WARD The Pageant - 9/29 Thepageant.com
SEPTEMBER KANSAS CITY
KANSAS CITY Fashion Week
And The Beat Goes On
Union Station - KCfashionweek.com 9/18-27
Hyde Park - KCcareclinic.org 9/20 Since its inception in 2012, this event has raised over $105,000 to support Vicki’s Clinic at the Kansas City CARE Clinic, a program that provides lifesaving heart health screenings and follow up care for women at risk for cardiac disease who may not otherwise have detection and treatment options.
In a collaborative effort, designers, boutiques, photographers, models, stylists and artists have come together to make Kansas City Fashion Week an event to be talked about and remembered. With a path forged by the city’s history and the talent leading the way for the future, Kansas City is redefining itself as a major fashion hub.
KC Irishfest Crown Center - 9/4-6 KCirishfest.com
Ratatat Uptown Theater - 9/10 Uptowntheater.com
DANCEFESTOPIA Berkley Riverfront Park - 9/11-13 Dancefestopia.com
9/11 Memorial Stair Climb Town Pavilion Building - 9/13 Eventbrite.com
Hozier Starlight TheatRE - 9/14 KCstarlight.com
Arty Gras KC Danny’s Big Easy -9/19 Eventbrite.com
Taylor Swift 1989 World Tour Sprint Center 9/21-22 Sprintcenter.com
Plaza Art Fair Country Club Plaza 9/25-27 Countryclubplaza.com
Cirque Under the Stars Starlight Theatre - ArtsKC.org 9/10 ArtsKC has partnered with Starlight Theatre and Center Stage to bring you a daring evening of circus acts and urban dance. The audience will be treated to a daring fusion of circus acts and urban dance. Fifteen performers transport spectators to the heart of a city, creating an entertaining and resolutely urban universe. thevitalVOICE.com
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SUNDAY FUNDAY!
Asian infused brunch, the best bloody Mary's & miss Leon's fried chicken From 4pm ~ close!
CLUB ST. LOUIS LET YOURSELF GO!
A P R I VAT E M E N ' S S AU N A
2625 Samuel Shepard Dr. • St. Louis, MO (314)533-3666 • www.theclubs.com ALWAYS OPEN • STEAM • SAUNA • WHIRLPOOL • OUTDOOR HEATED POOL & PATIO PRIVATE DRESSING ROOMS • FULL GYM • LOCKERS • SECURED PARKING • FREE WIFI •18+ ONLY
GUYS 18-24 Get FREE Guest Membership w/any regular rental
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September 2015
text KEVIN SCHMIDT art DARIN SLYMAN place JUST JOHN
last call
The Just John “Beachside” 1½ oz Pearl Peach Vodka 3 oz Pineapple Juice Splash grenadine
Kareem Lahaipumagoi
“All of Pearl’s products are easy to make cocktails and ‘bombs’ with, and you don’t have to be a bartender to be creative and make something great either!” Kareem says.
Working at Just John for seven months now, you can find Kareem behind the bar most Thursday through Sunday nights. Kareem’s favorite night to work is, to no surprise, Saturday nights. “It’s the night that we usually hold special events, and the energy is always high for staff and guests,” Kareem says. When Kareem is not at the bar, he enjoys a cozy night in with a pizza while watching his latest Netflix obsession (Sense8 at the moment). The 23 year old is also down for cuddling up, but hasn’t found that right guy…yet! In the meantime, his love for his job at Just John is more than enough. “Particularly because I live in Illinois, I came in not knowing anyone,” he says. “But in a few short months, I’ve made great friends here and have really become
Just John As winner of Vital VOICE’s VOICE Your Choice for Best Gay Bar in 2014, Just John is operating at the top of its game these days. With Karaoke on Tuesdays and Thursdays, Trivia on Wednesday nights and host to St. Louis’s hottest DJs on the weekends, there really is something for everyone there. “Just John is consistently one of those bars that has a true variety for everyone,” Kareem says. “You can chill out in the sun on the patio, or dance it up on the dance floor. All are welcome!” “It’s a spot where anyone can come in and hangout with your favorite bartender and shoot the shit,” he continues. “Everyone has that one bartender that knows their name, their choice drink and feels a sense of friendship with. If that’s not the case and it’s your first time here, I’m sure you will. It’s the ‘Gay Cheers!” V
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Pamper Yourself. Support the Cause. Book a 50-minute Your Choice Massage or a 50-minute Classic Facial and ask for the “Pride St. Louis Spa Package”. Guests will pay the retail rate and Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis will donate a portion of sales to Pride St. Louis, Inc. Call 314-881-5758 or visit fourseasons.com/stlouis/spa_and_salon
Void for persons ineligible to game or excluded from Lumière Place Casino for any reason. Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2014 Casino One Corporation. All Rights Reserved.