Fermented food fever Annabel Britton from All Good Market in Stamford explains how and why we should eat more fermented foods, and what exactly they are
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HE FERMENTED FOOD trend had been slowly bubbling away - much like a jar of kimchi - but over the last 12 months it has exploded, becoming more and more popular. ombucha and efir have become almost as ubiquitous as yoghurt and sauerkraut. What’s behind the rise and rise of the ferment? And what does ‘good for your gut’ actually mean? Because of an over-reliance on processed foods and a decrease in the nutritional value of fruit and veg, today the average western diet contains fewer and fewer nutrients. Therefore, the microbes in our gut are in need of a helping hand to do their jobs: stimulate the immune system, digest the nutrients in our food and fight any pathogens that find their way into our digestive tract. Welcome to ferments. The process of fermentation converts the starches and sugars in food into alcohols or acids which stimulate the production of ‘good bacteria,’ or probiotics. The next thing to get our heads round is prebiotics. Meg Ellison who is the Stamford-based entrepreneur behind rafft rains and a nutrition student tells us prebiotic fibre is a relatively new discovery. It is a special form of dietary fibre that acts as a fertiliser for all the ‘friendly’ bacteria in the large intestine, contributing towards a healthy gut. New science is emerging to suggest that eating the correct amount of prebiotic fibre is ust as important as eating a diet rich in fermented foods packed with probiotics. Without prebiotics you can’t provide the probiotics the correct environment for them to survive
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and thrive.’ We’re also becoming increasingly aware of the link between gut health and mood; ‘gut feeling’ is a real thing! The neurotransmitter serotonin is produced in the gut, adding credence to the idea that a healthy gut is essential for a healthy mind. Long before this very modern requirement to replace the gaping nutrition-holes in our diets with previously obscure Korean condiments and sparkling Chinese teas, fermented foods were staples in our diets because of their practicality in the prerefrigeration era. Cider, beer, cheeses and their accompanying pickles were all ways to make use of a seasonal glut. Fermented foods had been declining in relevance since the Industrial Revolution as many more people were now working in factories and mills rather than tending to their plots of land. Sourdough bread, for example, gave way to processed loaves; but the beer obviously stayed. No wonder then
that as the pandemic gave us both a great deal of spare time and immune-system anxiety, the popularity of fermented foods once again soared. We have a number of producers and purveyors of cultured goodness in the local area. My shop stocks kimchi made by local plant based chef Celine Bangay. Kimchi is a Korean condiment made from fermented Napa cabbage (yes, people do tend to look aghast when I tell them that) along with carrot, onion, ginger and ochu ang which is a chilli paste. Her Instagram account is a fountain of recipe ideas and a good place to start if you’re looking for a bit of food inspiration find her imchi panca e recipe below. I’m very partial to a spoonful of kimchi on cheese on toast or stirred into some scrambled egg. oreans may or may not find this sacrilegious, but the sharp and spicy kimchi is the ideal complement to creamier avours. t’s also delicious on rice dishes and
July 2021 / theactivemag.com
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