The Baltic Guide ENG November 2016 by The Baltic Guide

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA Getting in the spirit – A guide to Tallinn’s Christmas Markets At long last – The opening of the Estonian National Museum Where to get your blood sausage fix Revamping and expanding Rotermann Quarter

Comedy Estonia: Finland and Estonia Are Funny Nightlife: Prime Places to Pop a Cork

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N O V E M B E R 2 0 16

Your free guide to Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

The sights and smells of the holidays

f there’s one consolation to the long dark nights and short gloomy days of autumn, it’s that you know Christmas is just around the corner. It’s pretty easy to get yourself in the holiday spirit in November. There is no cosier month! Put on your warmest jumper and head to one of the upcoming Christmas markets. Enjoy a concert. And be sure to try some traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut in Town Hall Square or at one of the many Estonian restaurants serving holiday food. Wandering the streets of Tallinn’s Old Town in November, you’re bound to come across the warm, spiced smell of mulled wine, or "glögg", wafting from one of the city’s many cafés. There are many different recipes for this festive drink, but it’s usually made with red wine and a

combination of spices and dried fruit. Every country seems to have their version of the drink. In addition to mulled wine, the English also enjoy mulled cider during the winter months. Spices used are cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and mace. The Germans and Austrians enjoy Glühwein during the Christmas holidays, adding cinnamon, cloves, star anise, citrus peel, and sometimes vanilla to the red wine. Blueberry wine or cherry wine sometimes replaces the red wine, and sometimes even rum is added. Mulled wine, Christmas concerts, Christmas markets and some great food is all you need to get you through the dark months. Happy travels!

Contents 3 editorial

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants 4-5 estonian christmas food restaurant news 6 New Thai MySushi

November Highlights 01 THE CHRISTMAS MARKET OPEN Tallinn’s annual Christmas market opens 18 November at the Town Hall Square. Little cottages selling handicrafts and delicious treats await! A fantastic place to spend an afternoon.

02 ALADDIN ON ICE Aladdin and the Fire Emperor on ice come to Saku Suurhall from 8-10 December. Enjoy brilliant skating, acrobatics, and gymnastics. It will be a fun event for the whole family.

this month 8 beauty 10 nightlife 12 shopping: rotermann quarter 14-15 interview: Louis Zezeran 16-17 sightseeing top 10 18 museum 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 day trip: Tartu

03 ST. MARTIN’S DAY FAIR IN TALLINN Known as the "song festival of Estonian handicraft", the St. Martin’s Day Fair brings craftsmen together from all over Estonia from 10-13 November at the Saku Suurhall. In addition to beautiful handicrafts, enjoy traditional delicacies and musical performances.

04 FATHER’S DAY CELEBRATIONS Celebrate fathers and grandfathers this Father’s Day with a concert. Accordion on music fans can enjoy the Lõõtsavägilised concert at the House of the Blackheadss on 12 November, or on the 13th at the Karlova Theatre in Tartu. The ensemble’s youngest member is 12, but already has over 100 performances under his belt.

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O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Comedian Louis Zezeran Photo: Anu Hammer

NOVEMBER 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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The American song collective Take 6 will perform on 4 December at the Nordea ea Concert Hall in Tallinn and on 3 December at the Vanemuise Concert Hall in Tartu. u. The 10-time Grammy winning collective will perform together with Estonian an Voices. The Joulujazz Christmas Jazz Festival will bring the Wayne Krantz Trio (28.11) and pianist Bill Laurance (1.12) to Tallinn too.

Photo: concert organiser

05 JAZZ FOR DARK NIGHTS

restau

Don't like blood sausage, try roast pork.

Uulits has a new location in Kalamaja.

RESTAURANT NEWS The a la carte restaurant at Tallinnk City Hotel is now called Sume. The head chef Kristjan Kelder has put together a menu with everything from caesar salad to jerusalem artichoke soup, to pasta to burgers. The children’s menu is covered with Lotte drawings. On Sundays, enjoy brunch with sparkling wine. Kalamaja’s newest restaurant is the gourmet street food vendor Uulits. Burgers, salads and fries are all made in house, as is the mayo, sauce, and ketchup. Uulits is located in Kalamaja at the start of Soo, near the Põhja pst tram stop. Oliver, located on the main street Viru in the Old Town will move with its butler figure further into the Old Town. Their new address is Rataskaevu 22. Due to renovations the move won’t happen until midNovember. The Greek takeaway Pitas Gyros opened in the Old Town,

Getting in TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

You may have heard rumours about Oliver will move to Rataskaevu 22.

across from Rimi. Gyros and pitas are of course on offer, along with salad and feta. Algoth Distillery and Bar at the port now has live music and events at the weekends. They’ve already held rockabilly and Latino weekends. In November you can look forward to a salsa weekend on the 18th. ■

Location

what Estonians eat at Christmas, I’ll give you a hint, it’s starts with blood and ends with sausage. Now before you shake your head, hear me out. They are wonderful and quite different from other blood

puddings you may have tried. Traditional Estonian cuisine, in general, uses few spices, and it’s probably because they were saving them for the blood sausage. The lovely pepperiness of the sausage in combination with the marjoram is the flavour Christmas, at least here in Estonia.

Sume, A. Laikmaa 5, Tallinn b2. Uulits, Soo 1B/6, Tallinn a1. Oliver, new address Rataskaevu 22, Tallinn Old Town h1. Pitas Gyros, Aia 10, Tallinn Old Town g3. Algoth Distillery and Bar, Lootsi 8, Tallinn a3.

Not all Christmas food is traditional. Pitas Gyros in the Old Town.

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

the culinary holiday spirit Eat your way through an Estonian Christmas If you’re adventurous and would like to make your own Estonian Christmas feast, here are some of the basics you will need: ■ Blood sausage (I like to bake mine with slices of bacon on top. And don’t forget to pierce the skin, otherwise they will explode while cooking).

Try some sausages and sauerkraut in the Town Hall Square.

Lingonberry sauce Sauerkraut Oven roasted potatoes Something pickled, like pumpkin All of these items you’ll be able to find in the grocery store. In fact, you’ll probably find dozens of different types of blood sausage ■ ■ ■ ■

- buy a few different types to try, like the ones in lamb casings, or the white sausages (those are made without blood). They even have blood sausage cocktail weiners! If you’re only in Estonia for a few days and don’t have time to make dinner, there are many

restaurants and hotels serving Estonian Christmas food throughout the season. Here are a few we suggest: MEKK - for something modern Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town i2 Liisu Juures - for something com-

forting Raekoja 13, Tallinn Old Town h2

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts - for something

traditional Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1 Leib Resto & Aed - for something

local Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 ■

restaurants

It was difficult to choose between the mains, as there were just so many things we wanted to try.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

A new chili in town Bright, fresh and flavourful dishes at New Thai.

thai TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The area surrounding the central market in Tallinn has been slow

to develop when compared to the rest of the city, but the opening of New Thai is proof that it’s not so far behind. After perusing the quirky market, stop in for a meal packed full of flavour and colour. Upon entering you are immediately greeted with a friendly smile. At lunch, an ever-changing buffet is on offer, with a few different mains and a soup. For dinner, the restaurant has a more intimate atmosphere, with an extensive à la carte menu to choose from. To start, we tried the fried spring rolls and satay skewers. The crispy

spring rolls were served with a chili sauce and would have been plenty, but we just had to try the skewers as well. We were not disappointed. Though the juicy chicken skewers lacked a sticky, creamy peanut sauce, the same

Friendly service and great food at New Thai.

chili sauce served with the rolls was a nice accompaniment. It was difficult to choose between the mains, as there were just so many things we wanted to try. Pad thai, a classic served with prawns lacked flavour, but the other dishes more than made up for that. The larp gai or spicy minced chicken with onion and mint was speckled with bright red chili pieces and fresh mint. There was no lack of chili here! But the star dish of the evening was the chu chi pla, or fried fish with paprika and mushrooms in “chu-chi” sauce. The rich, creamy

and hot coconut chili sauce enveloped the flaky fish fillet, making this dish perfect for a cool autumn evening. ■

Location New Thai Lastekodu 9, Tallinn b3 --------------------Appetisers: €6–€9 Mains: €7–€13 Dessert: €1.50–3.50 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Sushi & Pizza International flavours at MySushi. international TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Don’t let the name fool you, there

is much more at MySushi than just sushi. With five locations over town, the restaurant’s Rotermann location is the biggest. The elegantly decorated dining room

offers space for a quick lunch or a longer dinner with friends and family. The menu is a fusion of Asian and European flavours, with everything from an extensive à la carte sushi menu to pizza. Perhaps that most interesting feature on the menu is the tatare raw bar, where you can choose between different tatare and carpaccio

dishes. Try the beef carpaccio with wasabi remoulade and parmesan crisps or the the refreshing tuna tartar with lime, cucumber and coriander. For mains, there truly is some-

thing for everyone. While the focus is mainly fish dishes with things like octopus, scallops, or even fish and chips, carnivores

Inventive maki rolls at MySushi.

won’t be disappointed with the burger or steak. The pizzas have thin crispy crusts. You can choose from a few pizzas from the menu, or create your own. Daily lunch specials make MySushi a great stop for lunch during the week. You can find the week’s menu on their Facebook page. Service is fast and friendly too.

Location MySushi Mere pst 4, Tallinn a2 Other locations Jakobi 29, Tallinn P.Pinna 8, Tallinn Vilde tee 128, Tallinn Stockmann, Liivalaia 53, Tallinn

■

--------------------Appetisers: €4.90–€9 Mains: €6.50–€14 Dessert: €3.90–€4.90 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Enjoy the best French specialities, milkshakes and smoothies at

VIRU CAFÉ LYON! PRESENTS

T H IS IS O NE OF

T H E B EST R E STAU RANTS O F E STO NIA 20 1 6

Live music every riday and Saturday. F

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Sydney, London, Madrid, and now in Tallinn VIRU CAFÉ LYON IS LOCATED ON THE PARK SIDE OF VIRU CENTER.

www.cafelyon.ee

Open: Mo-Thu 12-23, Fri-Sat 12-02, Sun 11-23

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s November Offer Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, KAUBAMAJA

Holiday beauty Local cosmetics for him and her. GN Candle €11.99 This limited edition winter candle has a soft, sweet, fresh, and peachy scent. Made from organic soy wax, this scented candle will warm any night and fill the room with its soothing scent. Burning time: 39 hours. (Pillerkaar)

Tilk Gift Set Available in regular size €49.00 and mini €13.99 Day cream 50m/10ml (for different skin types: dry, combination, sensitive, oily); Nourishing night cream 50ml/10ml and softening hand cream 50ml/10ml. Tilk products are made in Saaremaa and just as many Saaremaa-source plant extracts as possible. (Pillerkaar)

Joik Advent Calendar €74.99 This limited Christmas Calendar has 24 different JOIK products. It’s a true indulgence for any beauty queen! (Pillerkaar)

JOIK Mini Set €9.90 This set has all your mini essentials, containing lemon and vanilla body cream, lemon and vanilla body exfoliator, and deep moisturising balm. (Pillerkaar)

Vestige Verdant is Estonia’s first luxury natural cosmetics brand bringing together the best health and beauty advantages with the motto “Your body is a temple”. DOMINA ELEGANS / D’DIFFERENCE BY NATURE Domina Elegans / D’Difference by Nature’s

effective products protect the skin, improve skin’s moisture and replenish vitamins and minerals. With innovative technology and high quality standards, the brand is a responsible and caring cosmetics manufacturer.

Vestige Verdant Royal Treatment Set €99 (Kaubamaja) (mask Organic Mask 200 ml, facial oil Rare Oil Blend 50 ml, eye serum Infinity 20 ml)

D´DIFFERENCE 5D Enriched Body Lotion firming body lotion 120 ml €52.99 (Kaubamaja) D´DIFFERENCE 4D Sensitive After Shave Balm 120 ml €38.99 (Kaubamaja)

Lumi is a University of Tartu spinoff business creating cosmetics with knowledge of medicinal plants and biotechnology to pave the way to more beautiful and healthy skin. The base of their products is hemp seed oil and most of their products are certified organic. LUMI DNA Defence Cream invigorating face cream 50 ml €43.99 (Kaubamaja) LUMI refreshing birch face water 100 ml €21.99 (Kaubamaja)

Nurme is a natural handmade cosmetic

that is made from Estonian raw materials like natural plant oils, goat’s milk, and other local plants, without any irritating scent or colouring. Nurme brings you to the soothing world of aromatherapy, while protecting your skin and hair, while at the same time caressing the senses. Nurme lip balm for men €4.90 (Kaubamaja) NURME After Shave face serum for men €12.90 (Kaubamaja)

Where to buy Pillerkaar (Solaris) Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2; Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2, Tallinn b2

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

NEW – The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Come to the 20th St Martin’s Fair from 10-13 November 2016 at Saku Suurhall in Tallinn! Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

6L]HV ZZZ YLYLDQYDX HH 0RQ )UL 6DW ) L 6

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

New craft supply shop in the

best collection of designer eyewear in Tallinn

Freedom Square tunnel.

Eyewear boutique

Be creative and make your ideas come to life! Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies.

+372 631 1871 viuu.ee

Telliskivi 60, Tallinn Telliskivi Creative City

ai Re esh Massage Parlour

• Pearls, semi-precious stones • Beads • Jewellery accessories • Gift boxes • Yarns • Knitting supplies • Embroidery supplies • Embroidery floss • Art supplies • Oil and acrylic paints • Children’s crafts • Soap-making supplies • Candle-making supplies • School supplies • School bags • Office supplies • Clay • and much more.

Our Services

Special Price!

• Thai Oil Massage Choose a ai foot massage • Thai Head, Neck, Back Massage or ai Head-Neck-Back • Traditional Thai Massage 22€ / 30min • Thai Aromatherapy Massage • Couples Massage (2 masseurs per couple) • 4-Hand Massage (2 masseurs) • Thai Foot Massage

Entrance through the underpass!

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

Open M-F10-20 Sa 11-18 Su by appointment only

Tel +372 5558 8309 admin@thairefresh.ee www.thairefresh.ee

Old Town salon Suur-karja 2, Tallinn

Kreutzwaldi salon Kreutzwaldi 5-4, Tallinn

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

Prime Places to POP A CORK TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

ith the b est spots for beer being covered last month, we thought it was about time to dive into the barrel, and see what was available for wine-lovers. Whatever you’ve heard on the grapevine, Tallinn is replete with nightspots where you can prioritise grape over grain. Check out some of the best options for your evening on the town, whether you prefer to be classy, fabulous or both. Tiks (Kopli 14, Tallinn a1) is the kind of modern wine-bar you’d expect to see in Helsinki or Stockholm, but it’s got its own personality. The wooden building in which Tiks is situated dates back to the first Estonian Republic, but indoors, everything from the polished wooden floor to the shimmering worktops and comfortable bench seats have been renovated and refitted. The team behind Tiks have been very careful to avoid the vibe of a cliched, soulless bar, instead giving customers a cosy drinking area, adjoining a superbly-stocked wine shop. We think you might just choose to take a bottle or two of your favourites home with you. You don’t need to walk far to extend your wine tour;

Vinoteek Vabrik

(Vabriku 6,

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Karaoke

Põrgu

Shamrock

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town i3

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

The Oak Lounge

Butterfly Lounge

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Estonian Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Tiks gives customers a cosy drinking area, adjoining a superblystocked wine shop.

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Club Baila Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Klubi Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Live Music Chicago 1933

Late Night Dining

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3 Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Loca

Tapper

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

affordable - house wines. If, however, you want to go on an international wine adventure, there are hundreds of possibilities for you. If you find yourself there on a national holiday, and you’re very fortunate, you might even be able to join in an impromptu sing-song with the staff.

Paar Veini (Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i1) is an old favourite of ours,

its three rooms bringing a party room or dance floor, perfect for DJ sets, a sizeable bar area, and little spaces for hiding and chatting with your closest friends. Paar Veini can get a little noisy on a Friday or Saturday night, but if you’re prepared to go with the flow, there’s wine to suit every pocket, from the vaguely synthetic-tasting house varieties that are

Tallinn a1) is one of the friendli-

est little bars in Tallinn, and it’s a short lollop down Vabriku Street from Tiks. Set in an old warehouse, Vabrik evokes the feeling of entering a rich uncle’s wine cellar, with the excellent, knowledgeable staff guiding you through what you can expect to taste in each bottle. There’s no pressure on you to know anything about wine, though. If you came for a weekend break in order to eliminate choice, sit back and let the staff pick one of the perfectly satisfactory - and

Cubanita Live Cafe

The experts working at Gloria will reveal the secrets of the wine list.

on tap, up to prosecco and champagne for the high-rollers. You can enjoy wine responsibly, as the ads implore, while still having a good time, at Paar Veini. Sometimes, you don’t want to dance. Sometimes you want your own private space, and an old-school environment where you can kick back and relax, without any of the modern distractions that make it so difficult to maintain a conversation. Gloria Veinikelder (Müürivahe 2) has been a mainstay of Tallinn tourism pretty much from the earliest times that tourists came to the Estonian capital, and it’s got the kind of heritage and class that you feel inside a Rolls Royce. The colours are dark and the panels hardwood, as if in a stately home, perhaps appropriate given that to enter the restaurant you have to go downstairs through the city wall. The experts working at Gloria will reveal the secrets of the wine list if you ask them, and you can either take a table in the main room, or hire a private room for mediumsized groups. Should romance, or a delicate business deal, be in the

air, Gloria Veinikelder is the perfect place to go in Tallinn. Last month we focused on the places to be if you want to buy the excellent local craft beer that Estonia has to offer. Since that article, Põhjala Speakeasy has closed its doors, an unfortunate and blameless casualty of ongoing construction work in Kalamaja. Craft beer producers have also been hit by some confusing and, some believe, unnecessary, regulations brought in by the public body responsible for beer registration. One of the many great reasons to get excited about coming to Estonia is the flourishing small businesses producing craft beer. It is to be hoped that the authorities will work with these companies promoting “brand Estonia,” not against them. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

SATUMAA

Rock & Roll Karaoke Bar

Finnish and International Karaoke Bar, located at Viru 4 (Old Town) in the heart of Tallinn. Originally founded in Helsinki in 1999. Over 36000 songs available.

SHOTS 3€ Opening hours: Sun - Tue 15–02 Wed - Sat 12–04

shop htri

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Roseni

Hob ujaa ma

anni

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

The Rotermann Quarte whether you want to things you can't find els huge buildings in the a

Roterm

Centres

A Shopp

anni

■ Central Shopping

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Roter m

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

TEXT STUART GARLICK PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It is a mainstay of Rotermann, and Platz (Roseni 7) will never disap-

point. From its exquisite international dishes – made by a kitchen of the highest calibre - to its impressive wine list, this is a great place for a lunchtime treat, a date, or a family night out. The bricklined interior might evoke its hardworking past, but in Platz you can chill out with modern European cuisine and an extensive menu, now including a daily lunch offer, as is traditional in Estonian restaurants, of meat and sauerkraut, for those on a break from the office. If you want to try another long-running part of the Rotermann success story, you don't have to go far. Alter Ego (Roseni 8) is just across the paved courtyard, and backs up its strong reputation with dishes that can transport you straight to the Mediterranean, like calamari in tempura. For a satisfying coda to an afternoon stroll, try out Carmen Cafe (Rotermanni 5), which is spread across two floors of a building overlooking the square in the Rotermann Quarter, and is one of Tallinn's most comfortable places to while away a relaxing time with a friend, or a book, plus an appealing array of sandwiches, wraps and naughty treats, in an airy, modern environment. Open all day and through the evening, and now situated in a cool-looking renovated stone house, TOA (Taste of Asia, Rotermanni 2) wows with its open kit-

TOA wows with its open kitchen.

pping

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Rotermann:

ping and Food Revolution!

er has long been the growing and fashionable place to spend time, eat out, grab a coffee with your friends, or do some shopping for sewhere. The post-industrial district has opened up yet more of the area, and has made changes to the space, meaning much more for your money. Check out what we mean. chen, the steam sizzling from the cookers as Asian cooks with major experience in the food industry create a dish that's just wok you're looking for, keeping the vegetables crispy and the meat piquant. Diners rate TOA as one of the best experiences in Rotermann – are you going to join them and find out for yourself? If you love a healthy kick to your food and drink, you'll be happy to know that Puree (Rotermanni 2), with its carrot logo and cheeky interior, has opened in Rotermann. Every kind of smoothie and juice you could think of is on offer in this temple to the body. Treat yourself, but do so responsibly and healthily, at Puree.

Estonia’s largest film festival The 20th Dark Nights Film Festival celebrates French cinema. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS PÖFF

It's a popular myth among the foreigners who came to Estonia in

There is no big party planned in

the 1990s that there were only a very small number of cheese varieties available in shops at the time. That's all changed now. If the best time of your evening is spent with a nice glass of Chardonnay and some smooth, succulent cheese,

Juustukuningad (Cheese Kings, Rotermanni 2) has moved location,

but is still based in Rotermann, bringing Estonia's largest selection of international cheeses, for every price range and every taste-bud. Try before you buy: the exceptionally knowledgeable staff will guide you through a world of cheese, taking you on a sensory journey to make sure you get what you want. Our favourite is the mature Dutch cheese that

Visit Puree for a healthy kick to your food and drink.

behaves like Parmesan – and a great cheese can make your day, so choose wisely and take your time with the samples. Juustukuningad are getting new kinds of cheese in every week, and the

business has proved so successful – mostly because customers know that staff know what they're talking about – that the company now operates a chain of 13 shops. ■

Find delicious treats at Juustukuningad.

the programme, according to the film festival’s director Tiina Lokk, but there will be a few surprises. The reason being that all the money collected will go towards running the festival. “We basically have six different festivals”, she explains. PÖFF is comprised of the short film festival Sleepwalkers, the animation film festival Animated Dream, the youth and children’s festival Justfilm, and the main programme that has two competitions. “In addition, we also have HÖFF in Haapsalu and tARTuFF in Tartu”. Despite the tight budget, the festival has climbed into the ranks of the 15 best film festivals in the world. Lokk believes that the recognition come from Estonia’s reputation, as well as the fact that’s it’s an interesting place to visit. This year’s main festival theme is French cinema. “France has the oldest film industry in the world, and with that you can approach it from many different angles. The focus this time is on French animation, short films, and comedy”.

Lokk also has some tips for visitors. She suggests the two international competition programme, where there will be some world premieres as well. The other programmes also include many interesting films, many of which definitely have Oscar or Golden Globe nominations in their future. ■

20th PÖFF 11-27 November Tallinn & Tartu ■ The 20th annual PÖFF

■

festival is one of Estonia’s biggest events. Last year, 80,000 people were in attendance. Over 650 films were shown. The festival includes three differents parts: Animated Dreams, Just Film and Sleepwalkers. The festival has two international competition programme, as well as an Estonian film programme. The festival will take place in Tallinn at the Apollo in Solaris, the Apollo in Mustamäe, Kino Artis, Kino Sõprus, and Kosmos IMAX. Tickets available from Piletilevi and Solaris Shopping Centre, where you will find the PÖFF information and ticket desk.

events

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Events in Estonia recommended by culture.ee

Tallinn International Piano Festival The festival attracts the greatest number of visitors of any festival of classics in Estonia, making it a prestigious event to perform at. The festival has a special aura – it's an attraction that draws a large audience from many neighbouring countries. ■

Photo: Rene Riisalu

Location 4-12 November, Tallinn http://www.tallinnpianofestival.com/et http://www.concert.ee/

Photo: Tallinn Piano Festival

Tallinn Piano Festival is the biggest piano festival of the Baltic and Nordic region. The festival was founded in 1998 on the initiative of its founder and artistic director pianist Lauri Väinmaa, who wished to introduce exceptional pianists to the Estonian music audience, as well as to familiarise the locals with the new trends of the global music arena. Tallinn International Piano Festival is a unique piano week.

Christmas Market Joy Get into the holiday spirit while getting your shopping done early! TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Permanent exhibition “Echo of the Urals” “Echo of the Urals” is the perma-

nent exhibition of the Estonian National Museum, offering insight into how the FinnoUgric peoples might think as well as their culture, languages and genetic background. The exhibition also briefly explores how the tiny Finno-Ugric ethnic groups are doing today. The exhibition is dedicated to the Finno-Ugric indigenous peoples without their own statehood who inhabit an immense swath of land from Scandinavia in the northern part of Eurasia and the Baltic Sea to the Taymyr Peninsula and Yenisei River in Siberia. The Finno-Ugric are settled down to – in some areas – the Danube and the Volga River, in the south. The central idea of the exhibition is inspired

by the differences between the daily activities, rituals and traditional art of Finno-Ugric women and men. In addition, the exhibition offers an excellent display of Finno-Ugric clothing, daily tools and equipment. The most valuable part of the Finno-Ugric collection was compiled by the Museum 100 years ago; the exhibition combines the archaicness of the Finno-Ugric nations with a surprising design language, a futuristic, yet culturally sensitive spatial design and passionate aesthetics. ■

he 2016 International Christmas Bazaar organised by the International Women’s Club of

Tallinn will be held on Sunday 20 November from 11.00-16.00 at the Radisson Blu Sky hotel on

Rävala pst in Tallinn. This year, 26 embassies are participating and will be selling specialities from their home countries. As always there will be interesting items for sale at the Silent Auction and great prizes to win at the Tombola. Entrance is free! Proceeds from the Bazaar will go to support charities throughout Estonia.

Christmas Village at the Estonian Open Air Museum 17-18 December Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn Christmas is a magical time and Christmas at the Open Air Museum is even more special. There, you can learn about old traditions while wandering through old barn-dwellings and farm houses, the schoolhouse and village shop. Every building has its own story to tell, which only becomes apparent upon entering. The village inhabitants, dressed in period clothing, talk about everyday life and traditions.

St. Martin’s Day Fair 10-13 November Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt 104b, Tallinn Mardilaat (St Martin’s Day Fair) has been held in Tallinn since 1997 and is the largest of its kind. What was once a simple handicrafts fair, has now become a wonderfully diverse folk culture event held by the Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union. Browse and buy handicrafts while talking to the craftsmen themselves. This is where old St Martin’s day rituals are revived. Take part in workshops for both children and adults, and enjoy some wonderful food too.

Christmas Market in Town Hall Square Location New building of the Estonian National Museum Muuseumi tee 2, Tartu

The annual Christmas market in Town Hall Square brings visitors from all over.

18 November - 7 January Town Hall Square, Tallinn Old Town The Christmas market is known for its small wooden huts filled with handicrafts, clothes, and more. Find unique gifts to fill your stockings, like jewelry and ceramics. The smells of gingerbread, glögg, and other treats fill the square. Glögg and mulled wine are available with or without alcohol, or with different flavours like sea buckthorn or blueberry. Be sure to try traditional Christmas sausages (black pudding) with sauerkraut. Enjoy cultural programmes including children’s choirs and folk dancing. Visit Santa and his reindeer too! The Christmas tree in the centre of the square is truly impressive. It’s over 20 metres tall and has been brought to the square every year since 1441. Some say it was the first of its in Europe.

Tallinn Handicraft Fair 2-4 December Tallinn Song Festival Grounds, Narva mnt 95, Tallinn Peruse local and traditional handicrafts like knitwear, ceramics, candles, jewellry, and more. And don’t forget about the wonderful foods prepared by local farmers and other small producers.

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events

Comedy Estonia: Finland and Estonia Are Funny TEXT STUART GARLICK PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Stand-up comedy has a reputa-

tion for not travelling well - perhaps an undeserved one. Comedy Estonia, a longstanding success story in its country of origin, has spread its wings, and alongside its regular shows in Tallinn, Tartu and all over Estonia, they will be heading to Helsinki in November with well-known headliner Daniel Sloss after the comedian performs in Tallinn and Tartu. We caught up with Comedy Estonia co-founder Louis Zezeran and comedian Karl-Alari Varma for a chat about what makes good comedy, and why Estonia is such a fun place in which to make jokes. “If you make fun of yourself, that’ll get a laugh everywhere, because the audience can see it, and can relate to it,” Karl said about his chosen method for getting an audience on his side. He learned that the hard way; similarly to many of the comedians Comedy Estonia runs on its gigs of all sizes of venue around the Baltics, Karl started out walking up to the microphone at one of the company’s Open Mic nights. It’s a terrifying thing for anyone not imbued with huge selfconfidence. “I remember I was really nervous,” Karl said, “and I’d just had a leg injury, so the injured leg kept on twitching, so much that I had to sit down. Thankfully I didn’t stumble my words and it was fine.” Although Karl was careful to stress that there is no right or wrong way of preparing for a gig, he believes preparation is key for everyone. “Prepare material beforehand. Make sure you have

jokes. See other people doing it, because structure is very important, and if you can see others performing it really helps.” Louis Zezeran, once named by an

Estonian publication in a list of the country’s ten most eligible bachelors (he said, “I think you’ve got to ask who was at number eleven!”) comes across on stage as a happy-go-lucky kind of guy, the easy-going Australian accent and his friendly banter ensuring a gig gets off on the right foot. However he views comedy in an analytical way, perhaps not surprisingly, given that he graduated in Computer Science back at home, before moving to Estonia and discovering his comedic ability. Louis had plenty of advice for a nervous first-time stand-up. “It’s not until you see the mechanics of stand-up and how it works that you can kind of mess with the audience, so to start with, prepare what you’re going to say, and - the tip that was always given to me - write it out, and then highlight where you think there’s a laugh. Then, reduce the gaps between the laughing bits. That’s how you see how funny your set is going to be. After a while you have some idea how things will go. And then you just... have to... do it.” Louis shared an interesting theory about why some audiences preferred certain jokes to others. He’d taken some “left-leaning,” anti-racist material to a gig in Estonia where he’d been sure it would be appreciated, but he’d found it didn’t go down as well as he’d hoped. Louis speculated afterwards that it was because

there were Estonians, but also foreigners, in the room, so rather than laugh, many Estonians had felt embarrassed about the topic. “When we’re all just guilty sinners in a room, we can laugh, but when there’s some innocent people, it’s harder,” he reflected. “With any joke, the rule is, could you do this joke in front of the person it’s about? With comedy, you have to punch up, not down.” One of the secrets to Comedy Estonia’s success is that, in following this rule, it makes comedy gigs into a true community, a conversation of which the audience wants to be part. Stand-up comedy has grown

steadily in popularity in Estonia throughout the 2010s, to the point that Comedy Estonia now runs regular Estonian-language gigs, alongside the English-language nights that occasionally have an Estonian-speaking comic in the set. Karl said it was a natural progression. “There was always someone doing it in Estonian, but then there was a revolution amongst comedians, and more and more people did in the language.” As mentioned, Comedy Estonia hits Finland in November, with the caustic wit of Daniel Sloss on the bill. Had Karl noticed a difference between Finnish and Estonian audience tastes? “The difference I can say is that if we do an English-language show in Finland, we’ll get a lot more ex-pats and native English-speakers, but in Estonia most of our audience is Estonians.” “If we get someone like Jimmy Carr or Bill Bailey, the Finnish audiences are a lot more open

than the Estonian audience,” said Louis, “I don’t know why that is, because Finns are known as reserved people. We’ve got Daniel Sloss, he’s going to be at the Musiikitaalo, and he’s great because he really appeals to young people. Most Finnish stand-up is done by people over 40, I don’t know why - maybe the younger comics have more of a problem coming through - but it’s exciting to present someone like Daniel Sloss, he’s got a very young fanbase, he’s very energetic, and he’s a bit different to what the Finnish audiences can often see. Daniel’s a great example of someone who’s willing to come back again and again, and grow his fanbase.” Understandably, rather than have a favourite venue or gig, Louis and Karl both try to treat every night equally. “We have to design the shows differently,” said Louis. “People going to see Daniel Sloss possibly know him - he’s been on Conan O’Brien’s show six or seven times, he’s got a bit of a name for himself. We put on different shows at different levels. Some of the most satisfying shows have been where people don’t necessarily know the performer, but maybe they’ve seen something from a different perspective [at the show], or they’ve just had a good time.” They’re a tight-knit group, and

it seems Comedy Estonia’s performers like each other’s company. Louis agreed. “Comedy Estonia has always been about the crew working together - not just being on stage, but we function together as reasonable human beings and we get on well.” ■ Shows: Daniel Sloss, “SO?!” Tour November 7th in Tallinn at Vene Teater, November 8th in Tartu at Athena Keskus, November 12th in Helsinki at Musiikitaalo, as part of a tour of Finland and the Baltics that also includes Latvia and Lithuania. Tickets and more info from: www.comedyestonia.com

sightseeing

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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

November Top 10 Sights in Tallinn

TALLINN LEGENDS

SEAPLANE HARBOUR

Kullassepa 7, Tallinn Old Town h1

(Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn

Tallinn Legends is a unique tourist experience, a theatrical and interactive museum that recreates historical events and legends of medieval Tallinn. The entire experience takes 40 minutes, where nine fascinating legends are performed by professional actors and mechanical dolls. You are led through nine underground chambers, each a themed set for a different legend like the Alchemist deriving the formula of the Philosopher’s stone, the plague-devastated streets, or the beheading of Johann von Uexkull. The performances bring together storytelling, interactive shows, and special effects and are available in English, Finnish, Estonian, and Russian.

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

TALLINN TV TOWER

(Tallinna Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

2 VABAÕHUMUUSEUM ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

The 314-meter tall Tallinn TV Tower has been a popular sightseeing destination ever since its reopening last spring. From the visitor’s platform you can see the silhouette of Tallinn Old Town, some 10 kilometres to the west. Muuga Harbour is located to the north, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. In Soviet times, the tower was the only place to ‘see through the iron curtain,’ to the contour of unattainable capitalist Finland. Once you have looked horizontally, step on the glass circles in the floor and look vertically, 170 metres down! If you are less adventurous, just take a break in the caférestaurant, or get a glimpse of an interactive exhibition illustrating Estonian achievements.Back at the entrance area you can get a glimpse of Estonian history, and the restoration of independence, in which the TV Tower played an important role.

5 KUMU: ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn

KUMU Art Museum has reopened the Soviet wing of its permanent exhibition space, which focuses on Estonian art produced between 1940 and 1991. KUMU curators are reconceptualising understanding of what artists in Estonia made during the Soviet occupation for the first time since KUMU opened its doors to the public in 2006. This change is a welcome and fresh take on Soviet culture in Estonia, reflected in the new name of the display. Previously titled “Difficult Choices”, the display will now go under the name “Conflicts and Adaptations”, reflecting the multiple and contradictory roles artists played throughout the Soviet period, rather than imposing a single grand narrative. Come and see perennial favourites and outstanding works by Jüri Arrak, Malle Leis, Ilmar Malin and others in a new light!

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sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS

TALLINN CITY MUSEUM

(Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town g2

Situated in one of the oldest buildings in Tallinn’s Old Town, the Tallinn City Museum offers a wonderful look into the history of the country’s capital. The museum takes pride in carrying the cultural and historical heritage of Tallinn. It is not only a popular place for interactive communication and leisure time activities, but also a centre for research and memory. It includes an impressive porcelain collection, as well as a fascinating look at Tallinn before industrialisation, among other things. It is a must-see place for any history enthusiast.

KIEK IN DE KÖK AND THE BASTION TUNNELS Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

8 TALLINN ZOO

(Tallinna Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt 145 / Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn

The zoo is one of those places that you can visit many times and still not see everything. It’s fun and interesting for visitors of all ages, especially with baby animals born in the spring. Tallinn Zoo is definitely Estonian, because you can watch many of the animals live via webcam from the zoo’s homepage. But of course, visiting is much more fun. Located in the Veskimetsa park forest, Tallinn Zoo houses one of the most fascinating collections of wildlife in northern Europe. It has over 7,700 specimens from almost 600 species from all over the world. Tallinn Zoo has an impressive collection of wild goats and sheep, as well as a large population of vultures and eagles, along with other birds.

(Okupatsioonide muuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn b1

Every visit to the Occupation Museum brings a new surprise of some description. For someone who did not live through Estonia’s Soviet occupation, it’s easy to imagine what the city of Tallinn might have looked like in Soviet times, but it’s not possible to live through those times. That’s where a place like the Occupation Museum comes in. In a modernist, glass-surrounded building at the bottom of Toompuiestee, the museum projects an understated calm, all the better for drawing attention to its exhibits. The aim of the permanent exhibitions is to show what Estonia was like to live in, under Soviet rule. There are impressive artefacts, including paraphernalia from an old home, old cars, and of course the rogues’ gallery of Soviet political and military busts held downstairs, opposite the toilets, and sure to give you a fright when you realise how close you are to Lenin.

10 KGB MUSEUM

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

museum

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The long-awaited opening of the new Estonian National Museum

TEXT ARJA KORHONEN, PHOTOS ERM

he National Museum has been an important project for Estonians for 107 years, ever since its founding. Between the two World Wars, the museum sat in Raadi Manor, which was destroyed in 1944 during the bombings. Since then, the collections have been scattered

all over town; finally, everything can be found under one roof. Built on an old Soviet air base, the new building of the museum is truly a symphony of glass and concrete. From far away it looks like a ramp to the sky. The museum is three times bigger than KUMU. There are lots of objects on display, not counting photographs,

there are about 10,000 exhibits. The building is 34,000m2; of that 14,000 is open to the public, and of that 6000m2 is exhibition space. There are entrances from both sides. In the middle, a 126m long room houses a timeline of Estonian cultural history, from the Ice Age to the present. The most important artefact is most prob-

ably the first Estonian blue-blackwhite flag, that is 34 years older than Estonia itself. There are two permanent exhibitions taking place in the museum: ”Encounters” which follows the lives of Estonian people throughout time and “The Echo of the Urals”, displaying the cultural heritage of Finno-Ugric peoples. There is

no shortage of digital and interactive parts to the exhibits. The texts is displayed on screens that can be changed into different languages. ■

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Location Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Muuseumi tee 2, Tartu

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TH BA EM TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™N N OO V EV M B EB RE R2 02 10 61 6

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Mere pst

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

ÜLEMISTE

Pae Bus Station

VäikePaala

Majaka põik

2 4 Ülemiste

E-tickets

Vineeri

Tihase Marja

Tedre

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

Tondi

3, 4

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made. The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

I DE E ™™ NNOOV VE EMMB BE ER R 2 20 01 16 6 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6

day trip

TEXT ANNA ANTANE, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Find yourself at home in Tartu

Tartu is the second largest town

in Estonia and is best known for being the student capital. The University of Tartu was established in 1632 by the Swedish king and ever since has been a place where the brightest minds both local and international gather. Given the fact that this town is relatively small (a population of around 100 000) and has a high concentration of university students, it welcomes everybody and makes one feel like home within minutes. The most famous meeting spot

for locals is the statue of Kissing Students, in front of Tartu Town Hall, a starting point to get to know the city. Right next to the Town Hall Square is Rüütli Street, with souvenir shops and an array of cafés and restaurants during the day. In the evenings, it is the main street of nightlife on which to enjoy a glass of wine in places like Vein ja Vine (Rüütli 8) or Säde (Rüütli 4) or a craft beer from the impressive selection in J.R. Schramm’i Keller (Rüütli 11). If you just got here and want to start your day with a hearty breakfast, head straight to Krempel (Rüütli 12), which not only proudly serves the largest cups of coffee in town, but also offers such breakfast food as Pulp Fictionstyle blueberry pancakes. Just around the corner from Krempel is Pahupidi Kohvik (Gildi 3), which along with its whimsical upside-down interior offers vegan and gluten-free foods. The best view of the city can be

found on the top of Toomemägi Hill from one of the towers of the Tartu Cathedral, which also houses the University of Tartu museum. In case you find yourself drained from climbing up and down the hills in old town, pay a visit to Werner Café (Ülikooli 11), located right in front of the university’s main building. It is a staple joint among locals, open since 1895, and enticing visitors with their selection of scrumptious cakes and other pastries. Although most of the historical attractions are located in the Old Town, it is worth exploring the neighbourhoods

Tartu Cathedral on Toomemägi Hill.

situated a bit further from the centre. The Estonian National Museum (Muuseumi tee 2), which opened its doors to visitors at the beginning of October, is the largest museum in the Baltic States. Situated on a former airbase runway, it is a monumental piece of architecture, a heartfelt 100 years in the making. There are two permanent exhibitions taking place in the museum: "Encounters" which follows the lives of Estonian people throughout time and “The Echo of the Urals” displays the cultural heritage of Finno-Ugric peoples. The museum has been created in the true spirit of E-stonia and therefore is a hands-on innovative experience. Make sure to plan several hours for a visit, because of the size of the museum and the amount on display.

the other side of the centre. This neighbourhood should also be on the map for coffee lovers as it is the home of Karlova Kohv ( Tähe 63), which is a roastery and a café. On the same street you can also find the prettiest cupcakes in town in Tassikoogid (Tähe 21) and Barlova (Tähe 29) – a bar in Karlova and the Italian home you didn’t know you had. If however you want to see a part of the industrial Soviet heritage, take a walk up Riia Street to Aparaaditehas (Kastani 42), an old factory complex now a home for local creatives, hosts events and is also the location of the trendiest place for eating out: Aparaat (Kastani 42). Drop into Muhu bakery right next door to grab a loaf of warm Estonian black bread or My Italy food studio if you long for other kind of warmth.

If you are interested in wooden

Tartu offers a wide range of activities that can all be reached within

architecture and the smell of a burning stove reminds you of home, head either to Supilinn (Soup town), which earned its name from the streets being named after vegetables and fruit or to Karlova, located on

a 15-20 minute walk. This makes Tartu the perfect destination for autumn walks around town and cosying up in a café during the dark hours. All of it feels so familiar and safe, just like home. ■

The University of Tartu was established in 1632.

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