The Bugle Dordogne - Jan 2019

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When it’s OK to drink from the bowl

Faire chabrol - The local tradition of adding wine to your empty soup bowl is alive and well in the Dordogne >> Page 3

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November 2016 - Issue #85

Dordogne

Your local newspaper for life in France

January 2019 - Issue 67 - FREE!

Brexit Bill voted through by France The birth of the French whisky industry - page 6

With the deadline for Britain to leave the EU just a few months away, France has voted through a Bill which will allow the government to take swift action in the event

A

In the wake of May’s decision to try to renegotiate the Brexit agreement, France’s National Assembly voted through a bill that allows the government to take emergency measures to handle the fallout of a no-deal Brexit, including protecting the lives of Britons living and working in France.

Speaking after the vote, France’s minister for European affairs, Nathalie Loiseau, said: “Our collective responsibility is to ensure that France is ready for all the possibilities on March 29th at midnight. As the results of the vote showed last night, this bill goes

Local cricket thriving in the Dordogne - pg 5

French women win European gold - pg 10

of a no-deal Brexit.

Bilingual - “Traditional” fish and chips - pg 15

The Bugle Business Directory - pg 16-18

>> continued on page 11

© Obier (WikiCommons)

s a new year dawns, and with fewer than 100 days to go before 29 March 2019, there is still much uncertainty as to how, when or even if Britain will leave the European Union. Following Theresa May’s decision to delay the vote on the Brexit deal negotiated with the EU, leaders across Europe are preparing for many people’s worst case scenario - a nodeal Brexit. With so much still unknown, expats find themselves in a particularly difficult situation; in less than three months, nothing could change, or everything could be different.

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2 ♦ IN THIS EDITION

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irst of all, I would like to wish a very happy, healthy and prosperous New Year to all and let’s hope that, one way or another, we will soon be able to stop talking about Brexit and just get on with wherever we find ourselves at the end of March. The mind boggles to think that after two and a half years of talks and far fewer than one hundred days before the deadline, we still have no idea where we stand, how our lives will change or indeed whether we will even leave!

It reminds me of a story from 2017 when Nottingham’s Black Iris Brewery decided to hold a party at its headquarters and labelled the event “The Piss Up In A Brewery”. Unfortunately, as the big day approached, organisers were forced to relocate it to a pub a few doors down the road as they had not correctly applied for the relevant licence. Faced with the irony of their failure to organise a piss up in a brewery, they renamed the event “The Piss Up Near A Brewery”!

At least they managed to get the party started in the end, however; you rather get the impression that Johnson, Davis, Gove et al have not only failed to apply for the licence, but also forgotten to order any beer or invite any

guests. What they appear to have, flying in the face of all available evidence, are promises that their’s will be the best party ever thrown, will be free for all, feature no foreigners, boast a gourmet allyou-can-eat buffet and come with the guarantee of no hangovers! It will be interesting to see how the next few months pan out.

Personally, my family had a very eventful Christmas. We took the decision a few months ago to travel back to the UK, the first time we have attempted such a trip by plane as a family of five. We were expecting stress, tantrums and logistical challenges, but what we had not banked on was a rogue drone!

We were due to fly on the Friday evening before Christmas, but 24 hours before take off, Gatwick airport remained closed and we were rapidly losing hope that we would make it back in time for turkey. The presents were already in the UK and all looked decidedly bleak. I checked the Gatwick website at 5 in the morning on our day of travel and it was being suggested that there would be no flights all day, so I resigned myself to fate and went back to sleep. Then at 6:30 when I next checked, flights had suddenly started up again and I could allow myself to dream of stuffing balls

and paper hats.

We made the trip to Bordeaux airport, parked the car, checked in, wrestled the kids through security and took our seats... it was a Christmas miracle! Then my phone pinged, the dastardly drone had been seen again and Gatwick’s runways were closed once more. The minutes ticked past before the captain finally came on the intercom to announce our flight had been cancelled and we must all disembark.

To say my kids were gutted would be the understatement of all time. Devastated, bereft, heartbroken... a combination of the above. The Christmas rug had been pulled from underneath their feet and what should have been the happiest day of the year was cruelly taken away.

We travelled back home to the soundtrack of snivels and sniffs. To rub salt into the wound, Gatwick was only closed for a short amount of time and as we left the plane, flights had already resumed. I tried to plead this case with the cabin crew, but apparently, once your flight has been cancelled, there is no going back.

Fortunately, this tale has a happy ending. We were able to rebook the red-eye on Christmas Eve, which although it involved a 3 am start would at least get us there in time for Christmas pudding.

At this point I should say that I have only ever flown low-cost with Ryanair in the past. My Nan told me if you have nothing good to say about someone, don’t say anything. So I will move on from Ryanair. Our flights were with EasyJet this time and credit

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where it is due, the rebooking process for our cancelled flights could not have been easier or more straightforward.

Tout est bien qui finit bien and suffice it to say a fine time was had by all. We do not get back to the UK very often and while my children may appear English on the surface, they have only been north of the Channel a few times in their lives and are probably more French than British. So we decided to cram in some of the most important cultural experiences during our brief stay in Blighty: pubs were visited, fish and chips were eaten on the pier, 99 cornets were purchased (for £2.80 a pop – what happened there?!) and several hours were spent feeding coins into twopenny pushers. We did stop short of the jellied eels, however!!

I have wished them luck explaining to their classmates what they did at Christmas!

Until next month!

Steve Martindale, Editor

CONTACT us Tel: 06 04 17 80 93 General: editor@thebugle.eu Advertising (EN): sales24@thebugle.eu Publicité (FR): publicite@thebugle.eu Subscriptions: subscriptions24@thebugle.eu

INSIDE this edition 3-5 Local News 6-11 National News 12-14 French Life 15 Bilingual 16-18 Directory 19 Community 20 What’s On Copy deadline:

15th January for February’s print edition

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LOCAL NEWS ♦ 3

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It’s not always rude to drink from the bowl

E

very region of France has its local customs and the Dordogne is no exception. One you may have seen out and about, and which some say is the reason behind the impressive longevity of the area’s inhabitants, is to pour a splash of red wine into your empty soup bowl before picking it up, swilling it around and draining the contents, or more concisely, faire chabrol.

The tradition originates in this department, and although your grandmother may have always told you never to drink from the bowl, the opposite is the case with this old ritual.

Whilst some say chabrol and others chabrot, most agree that the expression means “boire comme une chabrette” - to drink like a goat.

“You put your spoon back in the bowl and fill up the spoon with a splash of wine,” explained Régine Rossi-Lagorce, a former chef and author of several books on the history of cooking. “Alternatively, if you are a bit greedy, you can turn the spoon upside down and pour the

wine over the back of the spoon, although with this technique, you will often have more wine than soup!”

The idea behind chabrol is to finish the meal and clean your plate, although others swear by the health benefits, believing that the splash of wine, mixed with the dregs of the soup provides a tonic. Whilst the British may say “An apple a day keeps the doctor away”, the local equivalent is “Chabrol quotidien éloigne le mé-

decin” - “Chabrol every day keeps the doctor at bay”. Indeed these purported health benefits are behind a different, perhaps more poetic origin of this tradition.

The Académie du Chabrol, based in the Périgord Noir, believes that the ritual dates back to 1580 when the famous essayist Michel de Montaigne was trying to escape the deadly plague sweeping across the region. Only one farm would give him refuge, the Chabrot household.

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The head of the family would pour wine into the remains of his broth after each meal. Believing that this was what had kept the family safe from disease, Montaigne took to drinking wine after his soup “comme le Père Chabrot”.

Whatever origin you choose to believe, it is a nice way to finish a good bowl of broth and not only will you not be scolded for drinking from the bowl, you will actually be helping to keep an ancient local tradition alive. ■

Region's radars targeted by the gilets jaunes

A

lthough the recent civil unrest in France is no longer just about fuel prices, protesters have continued to target petrol stations, toll booths and speed cameras. The latter have proved to be a particularly soft target and some reports estimate that more than half of the country’s 4,500 speed cameras were out of action in the run-up to Christmas, with the Dordogne particularly badly affected. A report by France Bleu Périgord suggested that as many as 80% of the Dordogne’s radars were at one point not fully functioning.

Many protesters see the recent reduction in the national speed limit to 80 km/h as just the latest move by the government to collect money from those that can least afford it and have vented their frustration on the nation’s speed cameras, much to the consternation of local officials and road safety campaigners.

The vandalism ranges from painting the screens, wrapping them in clingfilm or covering them with a gilet jaune through to dousing them in petrol and setting them alight.

“More than half of our radars are damaged,” explained the prefecture of one, unnamed central France department.

“But we have been advised to no longer comment on these figures for fear that it will provoke more attacks.”

In response to the damage, the Prefecture of the Dordogne released road death figures revealing that 41 people lost their lives on the department’s roads in 2018 and at least 12 of these were a direct result of excess speed. “A radar is there to slow people down, destroying them can have serious consequences” the Prefecture said in a statement. “The police and gendarmes have been deployed to apprehend those responsible.” Anyone caught vandalising a speed camera faces a fine of up to €45,000 and three years in prison.

Whilst there may be no official figures for the number of damaged radars, the repair costs will certainly run into the millions. A glass screen costs around €500 to repair, but to replace a burnt-out radar costs between €60-80,000. Add to this the lost earnings from speeding fines and the damage is another costly result for the government of the Yellow Vests movement. ■

4 ♦ LOCAL NEWS

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The Franco British Chamber Vinci chases free toll road users of Commerce Dordogne

T

he Franco British Chamber of Commerce Dordogne (FBCCI 24) is a provider of information and expertise to the English-speaking expat community in the Dordogne, via its network of specialists.

Having developed an extensive network of contacts it is uniquely positioned to assist individuals arriving in France to start a new life, those already living in France for some time, as well as those setting up a new or expanding an existing business.

The FBCCI can assist in such tasks as applying for a Titre de séjour, registering for tax, registering a small business, to expanding and employing staff, as well as many others. Additionally, the FBCCI encourages and facilitates networking opportunities within the FrancoBritish community.

One such networking event was held on Wednesday 5th December 2018 when 40 members and guests met up for a the annual pre-Christmas celebration at the Château de Neuvic. Shared experiences about living and running businesses in France, as well as festive holiday plans were typical conversation top-

ics.

Lunch was in a beautiful room overlooking the river, along with a distinctly English touch - Christmas crackers! The venue was chosen to support the two charities which are run from the château, one which helps children called the IME (Institut médico-éducatif) and one which helps the long-term unemployed, the EICN (Enterprise d’Insertion château de Neuvic). Two smartly turned-out trainees from the latter served the meal and others worked in the kitchen.

For more information about the Franco British Chamber of Commerce Dordogne (FBCCI 24) and how to join, please contact: Roger HAIGH Delegate, Dordogne CCI DORDOGNE Pôle Interconsulaire, Créavallée Nord 295, boulevard des Saveurs 24660 COULOUNIEIX-CHAMIERS www.dordogne.cci.fr Tel: +33 (0)6 10 35 18 91 roger.haigh@francobritishchamber.com twitter.com/fbcci24

S

ome motorists may have received an unwelcome Christmas present after Vinci, the company that manages many of the region’s péages (toll roads), announced that it would be chasing anyone that had used their roads for free during the gilets jaunes protests.

The so-called “péages gratuits” days saw protesters blockade toll booths, many of which also suffered extensive damage, allowing many motorists through without having to pay the usual toll.

In the aftermath, Vinci confirmed that they would be using number plate recognition technology to send bills to any motorists that had used its roads without paying. “We are going to put in place a very simple procedure which is to

send a friendly letter requesting motorists pay for the journey they have taken,” the company explained. “We are not, however, saying that the public have deliberately defrauded us.”

So will anyone who refuses to pay face a fine?

“We are not yet at that stage,” Vinci confirmed in a statement, before highlighting that the company had suffered financially from the recent civil unrest. Public sympathy may be limited, however, for a company which has an annual turnover of around €40 billion from its worldwide operations.

Vinci operates the A89 which runs through the heart of the Dordogne, as well as the A10, A62, A64 and a portion of the A63. ■

Clearance team find 70K in cash

M

any of us may keep an emergency €20 note in a slipper under the bed, or collect €2 coins for a rainy day, but four workers from the association 3S were recently shocked when they were clearing out the home of an elderly woman being transferred to a care home and found more than €70,000 squirrelled away throughout the house.

“The money was not all in

one place, but scattered everywhere: down the back of drawers, under the tablecloth, in clothes, in furniture destined for the tip,” explained Fabrice Amblard, the director of 3S. The association employs people who have been through hard times with a view to helping them reintegrate into society and Fabrice Amblard was rightly proud of his staff. “They were all working in different parts of the house. It would have been

very easy for the person who first found the money to simply put it in his pocket.”

“The money arrived in a big garbage bag, I had never seen so much in my life. And they kept calling to tell me that they had found more.” Counting initially stopped once the total reached €70,000; this has all been returned to its rightful owner, but the team believes that there could still be another €10-20,000 left to count! ■

LOCAL NEWS ♦ 5

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Can you play French Cricket? tion in progress! Since then it has become a sport largely associated with the UK and its Commonwealth members, but there are 105 countries which play cricket and which are members of the International Cricket Council (ICC).

Eymet Cricket Club was one of the first cricket clubs to exist in the French provinces. Club Eymetois de Cricket was founded in 1983 by a group of ‘expats’ who were seriously missing their favourite sport. For the first season they

credit: Tim Chancellor (Eymet Cricket Club)

D

id you know that according to historical archives the French invented cricket and, in the words of Michael Caine, ‘not a lotta people know that...’

The French National Archives state that ‘criquet’ was already being played in the North of France by 1478, and by the mid-1700s several clubs were established in the northern regions. A visit by the MCC planned in 1789 was cancelled at the last minute because of a Revolu-

played on coconut matting laid on the town’s football pitch, but the following year the mayor kindly offered use of our present ground at Stade de Bretou, Eymet - complete with stand and all necessary facilities.

Last year saw the Club achieve the League and 20/20 Cup double, a fitting culmination of our then President Ian Brown’s three-year tenure. Ian stood down at this year’s AGM and has been replaced by Andrew Cardle. The Club finds itself in a transition period with a few of the old guard deciding that playing is no longer an option, so we are actively looking for more playing members. An important part of our membership is our Asian contingent; young players who have now been with the Club a number of years, and who bring to the team an athleticism that is perhaps lacking in some of the more mature members!

As well as playing the games we have a strong social side, with events being held during the winter months and to coincide with the visits of our touring teams to Eymet. Our new President is keen to bring the social activities of the Club to the forefront and to that end a

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by Eymet CC. Keep in touch with us for information on matches and events by following us on Facebook or via the website. ■ Dates for your diary: Saturday 26th January 2019 – Burns’ Quiz Night (Eymet) Saturday 16th February 2019 – Valentine’s Quiz Night (Lauzun) Saturday 23rd March 2019 – Brexit Quiz Night (Eymet) Friday 19th April 2019 – Leeds University Big Band Swing Night (St Colomb de Lauzun) Full details available via Facebook and the website: Facebook: www.facebook.com/eymetcc Web site: www.pitchero.com/clubs/ clubeymetoisdecricket

6 ♦ NATIONAL NEWS

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because it has all the required raw materials - barley, malt, and pure water - along with well-honed skills in distillation and ageing,” agreed Christophe Fargier, founder of the Lyon-based brewery Ninkasi which has just launched its own whisky.

Three of the world's five biggest producers of malt, the special mix of germinated grains used to make the spirit, are based in France and the country also has huge numbers of used, aged barrels. Traditional whisky-makers typically use former bourbon or sherry casks to age their creations, but French distillers have begun experimenting with the rich aromatic palette of casks that once aged wine, something that Warenghem boss David Roussier believes means French whiskies can offer something no others can. “What people look for in a whisky is a degree of authenticity,” he explained. “They want us to speak to them of terroir. In Brittany, we are well equipped for that. Now that people have accepted that we can make whisky in Brittany, we can allow ourselves to be more original.”

Terroir is the expression usually used to describe the natural environment in which a wine is produced, including the soil, climate, and topography of the land.

Despite the impressive growth of this emerging industry, it remains relatively small on the international scene. Warenghem currently produces around 200,000 litres of pure-alcohol equivalent - a measure of quantity used in the spirits industry - per year. By comparison, a medium-sized Scottish distill-

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W

hilst you may not associate France with whisky production, the country is in fact the largest consumer per capita in the world, with each person drinking a staggering 2.15 litres on average every year.

Whilst much of the whisky is the cheaper, blended variety, typically drunk with a mixer, tastes are changing and the country is starting to distill increasing amounts of the golden liquid.

Over recent times, Japan has exploded into a market so long dominated by Scotland and Ireland, and France has taken its first tentative steps to follow their example. Today there are 33 operating distilleries producing 79 brands, with a further 30 waiting for their whiskies to mature in the barrel for the minimum three years before they can be sold. Production has shot up from 215,000 bottles in 2010 to almost one million today, the majority of which currently heads to the domestic market.

It is a relatively new industry, however the first whisky was distilled here in 1987,

by Warenghem in Brittany - although experts suggest that the conditions and distilling know-how in France could soon see it become a bigger player on the international stage. “There is good whisky in France,” explained Jim Murray, author of the bestselling Whisky Bible. “But producing sufficient quantities, and with consistent quality, is a major problem. We need to invest in them and believe a bit more in their future.”

“France can make very good whiskies

© Grégoire Sarafian (WikiCommons)

France entering the whisky market

ery will produce around 7 million litres!

“There are no more than four or five distilleries in France today capable of large-scale production,” explained Xavier Brevet, who co-founded the blog Le Whisky Français.

“The profit margin requirements of the global spirits giants are too high for newcomer producers to meet at this stage of the industry's

development.”

With many of the higher-quality whiskies maturing in the barrel for 10, 12 or 15 years, it may be a while until French producers can take on the big guns, but if you are a fan of the golden spirit, why not go local and track down a bottle of French-distilled whisky this New Year. ■

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NATIONAL NEWS ♦ 7

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

T

he iconic clock on one of Paris' most celebrated monuments has been revealed to the public after being restored by the man charged a decade ago with illegally working on the timepiece. “It’s a lovely story,” said a spokeswoman for the Panthéon in central Paris. “The circle has been completed.”

The tale began when the clock, which had been abandoned and left to rust in the 1960s, was identified by the underground “cultural guerrilla” movement known as the Untergunther. The group, who see it as their job to covertly restore France's cultural heritage, first turned their attention to the building's clock thirteen years ago. For a year from September 2005, under the nose of the Panthéon's unsuspecting security officials, the group of intrepid “illegal restorers” set up a secret workshop and lounge in a cavity under the building's famous dome.

Under the supervision of group member Jean-Baptiste Viot, a professional clockmaker, they picked apart and repaired the antique clock.

Getting into the building was the easiest part, according to Lazar Klausmann, a spokesperson for the Untergunther.

The squad allowed themselves to be locked into the Panthéon one night, and then

identified a side entrance near some stairs leading up to their future hiding place. “Opening a lock is the easiest thing for a clockmaker,” said Klausmann.

From then on, they entered at will, day or night, unbeknown to the Panthéon's officials.

The hardest part of the scheme was apparently sneaking in the planks the group used to make chairs and tables to furnish their cosy squat cum workshop, which had sweeping views over the Paris skyline. The workshop was eventually hooked up to the electricity grid and even boasted a computer connected to the internet.

Only when their clandestine revamp of the elaborate timepiece had been completed did the group reveal themselves.

“When we had finished the repairs, we had a big debate on whether we should let the Panthéon's officials know or not,” said Klausmann at the time. “We decided to tell them in the end so that they would know to wind the clock up so it would still work. The Panthéon's administrator thought it was a hoax at first, but when we showed him the clock, and then took him up to our workshop, he had to take a deep breath and sit down!”

All did not go according to plan, however, and embarrassed by the way the group had entered the building so

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© Moonik (WikiCommons)

The bell finally tolls for illegal clock restorers

easily, the Centre of National Monuments filed a complaint against them for trespassing. This was ultimately dismissed, but the clock was not put back into service and its hands have remained still ever since.

A change of management at the Panthéon has finally brought about a change in attitude to the “illegally” restored clock. Following a recent restoration project on the building's dome, attention

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turned once again to the clock and it was only natural that Jean-Baptiste Viot, the man who had been instrumental in restoring it just over a decade ago, was brought back to oversee the work.

In the summer of 2018, the clock of the Panthéon began ticking once again. “We hear it! It does not always ring at the right time and the hands are not always in exactly the right place, but it works,” joked David Madec, the build-

BERGERAC

ing's new administrator. “We were far from worried about this at first, especially since this clock is more famous for its history than for its history of telling the truth!”

Following a final round of restoration work in December, relating to the weight of the pendulum and the effect of cold on the mechanism, the building's clock is now fully operational and a valuable piece of the capital's culture has finally been restored. ■

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Ref: 7528-VI €89,000 HAI DPE: N/R

Ref: 7557-MO €162,000 HAI DPE: D

8,090€ (10%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur.

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¾ acre plot of land with a hangar, a mobile home comprising main room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom and utility-room, an American camper-van (that is not used on the road anymore) composed of main room, 1 bedroom, shower-room. Taux d’honoraires

Detached house in a bastide town with shops.

Composed of: entrance, living room, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, covered terrace with views of the countryside, large basement, garage, workshop, boiler room, cellar. On a 2-acre plot. Taux d’honoraires

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Property comprising a main house with kitchen, living room, 5 bedrooms, bathroom, toilet and other rooms to be developed as well as 25 acres of land and a well. 500 m² outbuildings that could also be developed. Taux d’honoraires 15,000€ (7.5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur.

8 ♦ NATIONAL NEWS

www.thebugle.eu ○ THE BUGLE ○ JANUARY 2019

NATIONAL NEWS ♦ 9

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

Knitters set Christmas Free piano offered jumper world record to gifted teenager

I

A

young French piano prodigy received an early Christmas present in December when he was gifted a free piano after a video of him playing went viral. 14-year-old Mourad Tsimpou, who lives in the suburbs of Marseille, would regularly make the trek to a public piano in the nearby Timone hospital where, according to locals, he would practise for up to seven hours at a time.

It was during one of these practice sessions that Rayan Guerra filmed the video clip that would ultimately go viral. “I have just seen this young guy, who plays from 1 pm until 8 pm twice a week,” he tweeted, along with a video of the teenager playing Chopin. The clip was seen by hundreds of thousands of people, including the town's mayor, who in turn contacted the owner of a local music shop, Éric Scotto.

In response, Mr Scotto decided to give the teenager his very own piano for free, to enable him to practice even more. “Now it is time to provide the tools to allow him to work, and that is why we are here,” explained the shop owner. “Because talent that is not harnessed counts for nothing!”

credit: www.actu.fr

directly.”

In fact, as word of the record attempt spread, the group were sent knitted squares from across the country and even further afield. With the final element of the patchwork finally assembled, there were plans to exhibit the mammoth jumper on the pitch at the Top 14 rugby clash between Castres Olympique and Union Bordeaux-Bègles and Guinness Book of

World Records have been contacted for confirmation.

Another key part of the project has been to raise awareness of the Secours Populaire charity, which fights poverty and discrimination in public life.

Once the jumper has been finished and toured around the country, the wool will be unravelled and made into blankets for “those who are cold and who need them”, said Ms Carter. ■

Screenshot (France Bleu Provence)

t’s a yuletide tradition for many, but one group of knitters have taken the concept of the Christmas jumper to the extreme after attempting to set a record for the largest ever made. Having come third in the 2017 Ugly Jumper World Championship, the group of 20 amateur tricoteuses set their sights on the world record by knitting a festive jumper measuring 8 metres by 5 metres!

Based at La Bonne Maison restaurant in Albi, the group of friends are led by chief knitter, 29-year-old Lucille Carter. “At the front, there is a reindeer head on a red background. The sleeves are made in all colours, in a patchwork style,” Lucille said of the jumper, which took over 1,200 hours to knit. “We have received many donations by post, or people have come by the restaurant to give them to us

The budding virtuoso comes from a modest background in the cité de la Castellane area of Marseille and began his musical journey at a young age.

His parents explained to reporters that their son had always sung, but discovered instruments at primary school, where he was encouraged to play the piano by his music teacher. In order to develop his prodigious talent as he grew older, but without a piano of his own, Mourad would seek out free public pianos around the city for his practice sessions.

Now with his own piano at home, the modest musician, who still describes himself as a beginner, is hoping to hone his craft and one day go on to become a music teacher himself. ■

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www.thebugle.eu ○ THE BUGLE ○ JANUARY 2019

Screenshot (France3)

T

he French women's handball team won their first ever European championships in December, securing qualification for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics at the same time. The historic win in the final against Russia goes some way to avenge their defeat by the same opponents in the 2016 Olympic final.

Although the sport may not be that familiar to many British people, it is huge in France and the victory of Les Bleues was big news nationally. After football, handball is the second most popular sport in France in terms of the number of registered players and no other national team sport has won more medals on the international stage.

The French team added the European crown to the World title they won in 2017, and the 24-21 win over Russia, the only major nation they have not beaten in recent years, makes them hot favourites for next year's Olympics. Left-back Alexandra Lacrabère was the team's top scorer as

they led from start to finish, cheered on by 14,000 fans - including football star Kylian Mbappé - at a packed Accor Hotels Arena in Paris.

France went into the final on a high after thrashing the Netherlands 27-21 to end a run of three failures at the semi-final stage.

“What we did was incredible, considering that we lost Allison Pineau... we have written history!” said Lacrabère. Pineau was sent off in the 36th minute for dangerous play, after throwing the ball at a long distance and striking the Russian goalkeeper in the face. The 2009 player of the year left the pitch in tears, leaving her fellow players with a scoreboard that read 16-13.

“We deserve this medal, because we worked so hard,” coach Olivier Krumbholz told reporters after the match. “I told them in the dressing room that in life, you have to know how to appreciate the little things.

And this match has certainly been the most exceptional in terms of emotions.” ■

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Photo: Alexandre Gagné

Women's handball team The potential problems lift European trophy with home DNA kits

W

ith the emergence of companies like Ancestry and 23andMe, increasing numbers of people are having their DNA sequenced, and these DIY kits were a best-selling gift across the world this Christmas. For as little as €79, you can swab the inside of your cheek, send off the sample and just a few weeks later receive information on where your ancestors came from. You can also, however, find out if you carry genetic markers for certain illnesses, or, as is increasingly the case, expose dark secrets in your family tree!

This is one of the reasons that do-ityourself DNA testing kits are actually illegal in France, although that has not stopped nearly 100,000 people so far having their DNA sequenced in this country.

Despite being banned in 1994 under the loi de bioéthique (bioethics law), the kits are very easy to acquire from nearby countries, such as Switzerland or the Netherlands, where they are perfectly legal. In France, the only way you can take a DNA test legally is by getting medical approval or a court order allowing you to undergo one, and anyone who breaks the law theoretically faces a fine of up to €3,750!

On the whole, the medical profession in France is against these home DNA kits as they can create anxiety in people who often receive more information than they

were expecting. “We regularly have consultations with people armed with bundles of paper who did not know what they were getting involved in,” explained Professor Stanislas Lyonnet, director of an institute on genetic diseases. “They took a test they thought was frivolous, but are actually receiving crucial and sometimes important medical information. They say things like: I am a carrier of cystic fibrosis, I have a risk of getting Huntington's disease, I have a risk of breast cancer or ovarian cancer...

This is information that is poorly presented, lacking context and with no follow-up.

So to find it under the Christmas tree is really rather ridiculous!”

One such person was Paul, who spoke to Europe1 about his own test results.

“What it said was that people of my genotype have a higher than average likelihood of heroine addiction and an increased craving for alcohol. Now that I've got this information, I can't look at an alcoholic drink in the same way. Just because I have a 72% higher than average risk of developing schizophrenia, that doesn't necessarily mean that I will. For anything below a 50% increased risk, I will not question my doctor, because there are about thirty diseases detected. On the other hand, on some things that may worry me, I'm going to talk to him about it. But maybe he'll just laugh at me...” ■

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NATIONAL NEWS ♦ 11

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beyond partisan debate and has one goal: the protection of our national interests and those of our fellow citizens. We hope that the British government can, in the same way as we have done vis-à-vis their nationals living in France, guarantee the rights of French and European citizens. The French people of the United Kingdom can count on the unfailing commitment of the government. I want to say to Britons who live in France that they will be welcome tomorrow, as they are today. They must not become hostages of a no-deal Brexit.”

The so-called Brexit Bill will grant the French government emergency powers to quickly pass legislation to handle the situation of British expats in the event of a no-deal Brexit. “This means that in the event of no deal, the French government can quickly act to bring into effect decrees to ensure that we don’t become illegal residents overnight,” explained Kalba Meadows from Remain in France Together (RIFT), reacting to the news that the bill had been voted through parliament.

“It will almost certainly include some kind of transition or grace period to allow everyone to ‘regularise’ their situation under whatever new rules would be implemented. It also means that teachers and other fonctionnaires won’t lose their status or be downgraded to contractual workers.”

The UK also released a paper

detailing the effects of no deal for expats, as well as allocating £2 billion to government agencies to help prepare for the cliff-edge scenario. The paper confirmed, as had previously been stated, that the UK would aim for healthcare arrangements for British state pensioners in the EU to continue to operate via reciprocal agreements, whether with the EU as a whole or individual member countries such as France.

The UK also stated that it would continue to seek agreements with EU states giving UK nationals the right to vote and stand in local elections, as it will also do in the case of a deal.

As a show of good faith, the paper confirmed that EU citizens in the UK will be able to vote and stand in local British elections in May 2019.

Also relevant to British expats in France is the fact that the paper confirms that the UK aims to maintain most of the benefits of the draft withdrawal agreement for EU citizens settled in the UK before Brexit Day. “They will be able to stay and carry on with their lives broadly as now,” the paper says. “They will continue to be able to work, study, and access benefits and services in the UK on the same basis after we exit the EU as they do now.”

In other developments, the EU has revealed that while British citizens will not need a visa to travel to EU countries, they will need to apply for an ETIAS (European Travel Information

© Euseson (WikiCommons)

Uncertainty continues as Brexit Day approaches

and Authorisation System), which is due to come into force in 2021. Under the scheme, travellers will have to apply online and pay €7 for the travel document, which will be valid for three years and checked at border crossings.

The EU says the ETIAS system will “strengthen security checks on those persons who travel visa-free to the EU”.

Whilst many wait nervously to see what will happen when Theresa May finally puts the draft agreement before parliament later this month, the British Ambassador to France, Edward Llewellyn, has insisted that everything is being done to protect the rights of expats in France. “It is important to underline that the UK and France have both said that people should be able to continue to live their lives in each other’s countries whatever happens,”

the ambassador highlighted in a recent email to The Bugle. “On our side we have published information on how we will provide for the full rights of EU nationals in the UK in all scenarios.”

The ambassador also pointed expats towards the Brexit section of the French government’s website (French only at time of going to print) – http:// brexit.gouv.fr. “This website confirms that a new registration system will soon be brought in and that people will be able to apply from March 2019 (in the event of no deal) or until the end of June 2021 in the event of a deal. While we await that system their advice to us remains that British citizens should apply for a carte de séjour (residency permit) under the existing EU rules so that they are in the system, though this is of course your decision.” ■

12 ♦ FRENCH LIFE

www.thebugle.eu ○ THE BUGLE ○ JANUARY 2019

The New Year Hangover Cure!

N

by Julia Watson

ew Year’s Eve you recited the whole of “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner,” sang “Bye bye, Miss American Pie” to the end without garbling a single word, and demonstrated precisely how Fred Astaire tapped his way through “Top Hat”. Now it's the first morning of a fresh New Year. Except you're not feeling so fresh and you don't know if you'll be making it through to Day Two. What happened? Apart from several too many cocktails, that is.

Primarily, you've become dehydrated by the ethanol in alcohol, so your brain has shrunk away a little from its casing and is now thumping painfully between your ears. The increased blood flow to the skin that first gave you that lovely party glow last night has brought on a mild case of hypothermia this morning, and you're shivering cold.

You thought your third martini was the best you'd ever had. Your stomach thought it just another dose of poison it was forced to metabolize.

Enzymes made by cells in the liver worked to convert the ethanol to acetaldehyde, then other enzymes changed the acetaldehyde to acetic acid.

Acetaldehyde sounds like a product used by your dry cleaner to spruce up your winter coat.

It's certainly not spruced you up because it's mildly toxic, which doesn't help your hangover.

Basically, you're thoroughly dehydrated. Not enough glucose is getting to your brain, and your blood sugar is low.

If all this information is too much to take in while your brain is being hammered, just absorb what you can do to mitigate the feeling of imminent death in which you are floundering.

First, do NOT rely on the hair of the dog. More alcohol will simply postpone the painful cure.

Drink lots of water - alcohol has badly dehydrated you.

Eat something easily digestible to raise your blood sugar level. Dry toast at the very least - with scrambled eggs would be better. Some people swear by a full fried breakfast, believing the fat coats the stomach with a barrier that fights

those feelings of nausea. There's no science to back that, but if it works for you...

Beware coffee or tea. Both are diuretics, so you'll not cure your dehydration unless you keep up your water intake while knocking back those sugary espressos.

What of pharmacy remedies?

A journalist at one British newspaper was commanded by his editor to get himself drunk several times over a pre-Christmas week to try out several over-the-counter hangover medicines.

That this was a cruel assignment was confirmed by his conclusion that nothing worked. Of eight hangover cures reviewed in the British Medical Journal, vitamin B6 and prostaglandin inhibitors were deemed effective in promoting rehydration. Medications containing paracetamol (acetaminophen) must be avoided, they established, because they might cause potentially fatal liver damage. Medicines containing codeine, dihydrocodeine and tilidine were deemed helpful, but they shouldn't be taken along with alcohol or even shortly after the end of drinking or they too could cause damage. For nausea, they suggested over-the-counter motion-sickness or allergy medicine. Dioralyte, or other over-the-counter rehydration salts, are an effective act-quickly remedy.

Nature may come to the rescue. Lashings of hot chilli pepper deliver a natural feel-good factor.

Some enthusiasts spread spicy sauces and salsas on toast. Others jigger them onto scrambled eggs.

A cheat version of the Vietnamese beef soup Pho should do the trick without issuing a challenge to the digestive system because the difficult-to-digest cuts of meat usually included have been left out. Here it's been made from chicken stock because in this condition you are in no state to make your own delicate-flavoured beef stock, and a bought beef stock has far too imposing a taste.

Julia Watson has been a long-time Food Writer for newspapers and magazines in the US and the UK.

False Pho Soup

Serves 1 hung-over individual with several bowlfuls until cured Ingredients:

½ litre chicken stock Juice of ½ small fresh lime 1 star anise 1 tablespoon Nam Pla fish sauce (optional) 1 small handful fresh cilantro, left whole ½ small handful fresh mint leaves 250g bean sprouts 250g fine rice noodles 1 teaspoon sugar (preferably dark brown) As much as you can take of 1 fresh red chilli pepper, finely chopped, or Sriracha sauce to taste Put the rice noodles in almost boiling water and leave to soften, about 4 minutes, then drain and set aside.

Bring the chicken stock slowly to a boil over low heat with the star anise and red chilli pepper, then take off the heat, remove the star anise and add the noodles, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar.

With a pair of tongs, put a good helping of noodles into a warmed soup bowl, pour over chicken stock to cover by an inch, then add the bean sprouts, breaking them up in your hands, the cilantro stalks and the mint leaves.

Eat with extra heat from a squeeze-bottle of Sriracha sauce or any other hot sauce or more chillies, as often as you must until you feel back on your feet and your brain is comfy in its skull.

Review your finances for the new year Blevins Franks

T

he new year is a good time to reflect on the previous 12 months and look ahead to what the coming year may bring. Make sure one new year’s resolution is to review your financial planning to check it is up to date and on track to protect your family’s long-term wealth.

Preparing for Brexit Although the official Brexit date is just weeks away, there is still much uncertainty about what it will actually mean for UK nationals living in the EU and when any changes will take effect.

Whatever happens, if you are already formally resident in France, your right to remain should be secure. You can continue receiving the same access to healthcare and other benefits as you do today for as long as you are settled here.

But if you still plan to move to France or have not yet registered as tax resident, time is running out. Even if a transition period is guaranteed, it is sensible to work towards the shortest possible cut-off date, so take steps to establish your settled status before 29 March 2019.

Tax planning Regular tax reviews are crucial to ensure your investments and wealth are arranged in the most suitable way to limit your liabilities, while meeting your obligations.

Today, with the ‘automatic exchange of in-

formation’ regime well under way, it is more important than ever to get it right. Over 100 countries – including France and the UK – are already sharing data on residents’ overseas income and assets, with more joining each year. Your local tax office will receive financial information about you without having to ask for it.

Last October, the UK government introduced tougher penalties for failing to declare offshore income, assets or activities accurately and on time. Now they can impose an unlimited fine (maximum of £5,000 in Scotland and Ireland) and up to six months in prison where undeclared tax exceeds £25,000 in any tax year.

Cross-border tax planning is complex, so take specialist advice to achieve peace of mind and potentially secure significant tax savings.

have the added concern of exchange currency risk in what is currently a highly volatile time for Sterling.

Successful investing is about having a strategy specifically based around your personal circumstances, time horizon, needs, aims and risk tolerance. You should ensure you have adequate diversification to avoid over-exposure to any given country (including the UK), asset type, sector or company.

Using investment structures that allow multicurrency flexibility can help minimise exchange rate risk.

In any case, review your portfolio annually to take market developments into account, address any changes in your circumstances and take advantage of opportunities for residents in France.

Savings and investments

Today’s pension landscape offers more choices than ever, but this may change with Brexit. For example, it is possible that tax-free transfers to Qualified Recognised Overseas Pension Schemes (QROPS) may be targeted once the UK sheds its EU obligations. Carefully weigh up all your options, as well as the tax implications in France and the UK, to establish the best course of action for you.

Make sure you take regulated advice to protect your retirement savings from pension scams and do what is right for your personal circumstances and aims.

The Bank of England (BoE) increased the UK interest rate to 0.75% in August – the first time in over nine years that rates reached over half a per cent. While some banks eventually passed on an increase to savers, rates remain relatively low.

Keeping savings in cash can be risky if you are not earning enough to keep pace with the increased cost of living. With the current rate of inflation still hovering above the BoE’s target of 2% – reaching as high as 2.7% last August – many savers are actually earning a negative real rate of return. British expatriates

Pensions

Estate planning It is important to review your estate planning when living in France, as both succession law and tax work differently to the UK. For example, France’s ‘forced heirship’ rules could automatically pass a significant proportion of your worldwide estate to your direct family, whatever your intentions. You can specify in your will for the EU regulation ‘Brussels IV’ to apply relevant British law to your estate instead, but first understand your options and any tax implications.

Your estate plan should be set up to achieve your wishes in the most tax-efficient way possible. Speaking of heirs, do not forget to take into account any new additions to your family this year!

Whether it is investments, tax, pensions or estate planning, take personalised advice to establish the most suitable approach for you.

Spending a little time on a financial healthcheck now can provide peace of mind that you and your family are in the best financial position to enjoy a prosperous 2019 and beyond ■ Tel: 05 53 63 49 19 Email: bergerac@blevinsfranks.com Web: www.blevinsfranks.com Keep up to date on the financial issues that may affect you on the Blevins Franks news page: www.blevinsfranks.com

FRENCH LIFE ♦ 13

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

by Martin Walker

he more we learn about the 2018 vintage, the more extraordinary it appears. The wet spring and early summer, with constant threats of mildew, was a real challenge not just for the eventual harvest but above all for the growing trend towards organic wines.

Wet weather means mildew and there are two main ways to tackle it. The first and most common is to spray with copper sulphate, but use too much and the vineyard can lose its organic certification.

The other solution is to trim the young leaves, which are most vulnerable to mildew.

On a small vineyard, this is possible but very labour-intensive. On larger ones it is almost impossible.

The Bordeaux region, being more oceanic, had it even tougher. Indeed, some vineyards claim it all came down to a single day – Sunday 20th May. It had rained on the Friday and Saturday. If the vineyard had not made special preparation, with staff and supplies, to spray on the Sunday, it was too late.

Hugh Ryman of Château de la Jaubertie, one of the outstanding vineyards of the Bergerac and himself one of the most gifted winemakers, tells me that for him the nightmare lasted even longer.

“On 30th June ‎if you had asked me to bet on the finish of the growing season, I would never had imagined such a good finish. I was betting on a disaster scenario.

And there is contrast between those who were hit by mildew or hail which meant almost no yield, and those with a generous harvest and exceptional quality.

“This said, it will be an interesting year. What we believed to be later than normal harvest suddenly accelerated due to hot weather and water in the soil. We started picking at Jaubertie on 9th September and the heat of September/ October took many by surprise. Everybody was hoping or waiting for rain to accelerate tannin ripeness, but the rain never really came.”

The result, he says, is that the white wines are good but not exceptional. “The juices tasted better than the finished wines and the alcohol is higher than usual. The reds will be more interesting as the conditions were so exceptional that everybody could decide on the style they wanted. Picking could be decided on either fruit flavour or pH or tannin ripeness.” (pH is used in wine to measure ripeness in relation to acidity. Low pH wines are higher in acidity and will taste tart and crisp, while higher pH wines are more susceptible to bacterial growth. Most wine pHs are between 3 and 4; about 3.0 to 3.4 is desirable for white wines, while about 3.3 to 3.6 is best for reds.)

“We opted for fruit and balance and avoided exceeding 15 degrees (of alcohol) but many picked above with riper flavours. The reds at Jaubertie are very good but at Mondazur (our Pécharmant project) they are superb. For the sweet wines, due to the lack of rain and humidity, you had to wait and be patient and do many tries, but the result is worth the frustration.”

The Pécharmant region as a whole did well in 2018, and I asked François-Xavier de Saint-Exupéry of the region’s

Photo: L. J. Bettiga

T

The wines of Bergerac

Mildew was just one of the big challenges faced by the region’s vineyards in 2018

classic Château de Tiregand how he saw the 2018 vintage and on the whole (after a miserable 2017 when the frosts wiped out half his crop) he is very pleased indeed.

“We can already taste some very fine results, depending on the varieties of grapes.

The Merlots display notes of very ripe red fruits, like black cherries, almost like fruit soaked in syrup. The tannins are very soft, even before the secondary (malolactic) fermentation. After this, they could be even softer.”

“With our Malbecs, the first notes suggest a strong taste of cassis [blackcurrant], almost syrupy. It is quite remarkable. But then come the notes of violets. This year, I am fascinated by the Cabernet Francs. They have at the same time a great power and an extraordinary finesse.

Thus it is dense and long in the mouth, a splendid quality.

It is a very great year for this

grape.

“The Cabernet Sauvignons are powerful and opulent with red and black fruits.

They were almost the last to be picked and need to fill out, that is to say to rest on the lees to complete their structure for drinking. Overall, this promises to be a very rich and aromatic vintage, but there could be a problem with the high levels of alcohol.

These wines will reach 14.5 degrees or more, because of the warm September, dry and windy, which concentrated the juice in the grapes. They will be lovely in the mouth but the high alcohol could discourage some consumers.

“It reminds me of the first Grand Millésime that I made in 1998, with 70 per cent Merlot and 30 per cent Cabernet Franc, and because of this year’s extraordinary Cabernet Franc we may well make this blend again for the 2018.

“Overall, 2018 will be a fine vintage with good yields, which we truly need to replenish our stocks in the Pécharmant. All the winemakers agree on this. But the technical question of the degree of alcohol in the wines is more and more urgent. The solution lies in reducing the surface of leaf. Perhaps this will have to come if these dry, hot summers become the norm.” ■

Martin Walker, author of the best-selling ‘Bruno, chief of police’ novels, is a Grand Consul de la Vinée de Bergerac. Formerly a journalist, he spent 25 years as foreign correspondent for The Guardian and then became editor-in-chief of United Press International.

He and his wife Julia have had a home in the Périgord since 1999 and one of his great hobbies is visiting the vineyards of Bergerac.

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14 ♦ FRENCH LIFE

www.thebugle.eu ○ THE BUGLE ○ JANUARY 2019

The Grumpy Granny Guide

Behind the Scenes: the Independent Tour Guide

A

t first glance working as a personal, independent guide appears to be the ideal job. You can pick and choose whom you accompany, where you go and what you say. Free of the constraints of specific site guides whose work may be repetitive and with greater flexibility and autonomy than those employed by a single tour operator, tourist office or other local organisation.

However, although all the guides I met were hugely enthusiastic about their work, whether as an historical or environmental guide, they all talked about the present challenges they are facing as their profession adapts to the 21st century in general and to changing tourism in the Périgord in particular. They all have to combine finding enough clients to make a reasonable living, capture the interest and imagination of an evermore demanding public and yet maintain an ethical approach - an uneasy balance, as they explained.

The overriding characteristic of independent guides is their passion for their subject and their desire to pass this on to the public. Success depends on their finding, and keeping, enough clients happy to pay them and since almost all guides get work through word of mouth rather than advertising, firmly establishing a good reputation.

The legislation on who can guide, and who can’t, is strict but hardly ever enforced and with increasing tourist numbers have come a growing number of guides. But many of those working as independents have neither official qualifications nor adequate training, a situation which the certified guides find frustrating. The reliability, expertise and care of the client which are the hallmark of a professional guide come at a price which in the rush for an increased share of the tourist budget is sometimes contested.

As Lucette, one of the area’s most experienced and respected guides explained, “In my very own commune a councillor recently called for volunteers to take over from professional local guides to reduce holiday expenses for the tourist! It is sad and infuriating to see that our services which are very realistically priced and always much appreciated, are viewed as part of the economic problem rather than as making a valuable contribution to the area’s success.”

Of course tourism has changed and so too the demands of those who want a personal guide who is expected to organise a visit which focuses on their needs, steer clear of the crowds, give exclusive insights into the life of the area and leave plenty of time for questions and answers.

As one guide put it, “The people who come to me today are far more exacting, which is fine. In some respects it makes my life easier, I can narrow my focus and concentrate on exactly what they ask for. Gone are the days when a personal guide could go through a visit on automatic pilot.”

Nevertheless, at a time when many visitors, even those on private tours, are more interested in taking photos than listening to a guide, it is an easy option just to give people what they want, to be entertaining rather than accurate and avoid the questions to which you have no answer.

Jean-François is a specialist in mediaeval history who works mainly with small groups who come on the recommendation of local hotel and gîte owners. His is

a financially precarious path and he has to work hard, as do all guides, to maintain the quality of his work and reputation. He feels a growing pressure to ‘put on a show’ yet is determined to maintain certain standards.

“I aim to satisfy my clients but not to dumb down. My passion is the Cistercian abbey at Cadouin which some people think is a rather dry and esoteric place to begin an exploration of the Périgord. But I present it as a book written in stone which if you can read and understand it, lays the groundwork for other visits in the area. I refuse to please the clients at any cost but the ethical environment in which we work now is sadly disintegrating. Just recently a site opened which posted information which was entirely false, not backed up by a shred of evidence.

When I commented on this to the owner he just replied ‘the public love it’ but this is plain deceit and we owe visitors more.”

It would seem that today’s guiding, whether with an independent guide or not, is following two mutually exclusive paths. On one track is the visit backed up by thorough research and expertise with a guide who is cautious about giving unsubstantiated information and on the other, those visits which attract the paying public with sometimes completely spurious accounts of dramatic events based on very few facts or none at all. Indeed, the fastest-growing tendency is to eschew dates and battles in favour of anecdote and to present the natural world as a sequence of dangerous, dramatic or doom-laden events.

The general public’s shorter attention span and thirst for the thrilling, contributes to a widening gap between those who come to be entertained rather than informed although it would be wrong to think that independent guides cater for the one group and permanent guides for the other.

With the best will in the world, when you have to earn a living, you have to make compromises. Gisèle takes groups on nature trails and specialises in local flora and fauna. “People who pay for a personal guide are usually highly motivated although there are always those who come just for the ride and trail along behind. They come with a lot of information they’ve found on the internet which may or may not be applicable to the area and I spend an increasing amount of time sifting through all that rather than explaining what is in front of us. There’s often more talk about world ecology and global warming than local nature! I have to make things interesting whatever the time and season but what do you do when they expect to see birds of prey and there are none or have come for the orchids which have finished flowering? I find myself straying from the topic of wildlife and giving them anecdotes and local folklore which they love but which aren’t really what my visits are about but what choice do I have? They have to leave happy.”

Tourist numbers dropped this year and all guides had less work, making them question the policies and politics which underpin all aspects of tourism in the area. Lucette: “Is there anyone out there asking the right questions? For too long we have accepted centralised policies and the whims of local officials and the fact that we are excluded from most decision making. I love my job and wouldn’t change it for the world but one of the problems at present is that here in the Périgord independent guides are just that, independent. Unlike guides in the Lot and elsewhere

we don’t have an association which would defend our interests, prevent unfair competition, represent us when vital decisions are being made and above all, monitor standards.”

There is, however, a third way being developed which perhaps meets the needs of both groups. The themed (lecture) tours, halfway between a personal and a standardised visit. These are offered by local tourist offices as well as private organisers and happily marry the expertise of the independent guides with a larger number of participants which reduces the cost. They are increasingly popular and go a long way to satisfying both the needs of the guide and the demands of the public.

Without doubt, independent tour guides have a sure future. Theirs is, after all, one of the world’s most venerable professions and one which has always had to adapt to demand. But the relationship between ethics and money is always a fraught one and not likely to be resolved any time soon. ■

This is part of a series of features devoted to the tourist experience in the Dordogne provided by the website grumpygranny-guides.com which highlights those sites which are comfortable and pleasant to visit and which offer a warm welcome.

SUDOKU - EASY

SUDOKU - MEDIUM

SUDOKU - HARD

Hard to know which tourist sites to visit?

Grumpy Granny Guide

The Grumpy Granny Guide® will help you choose if you:

Need practial information Are with young children or a pushchair Are elderly Hate standing in the sun Tire easily and need to sit down Can’t manage any steps or stairs Are with your dog The Grumpy Granny website provides all the information you need to make the right choice for a comfortable experience in the Dordogne Visit us on:

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The solutions to this month’s sudokus can be found on page 19

BILINGUAL ♦ 15

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

Traditional ‘British’ Fish and Chips ever since. The fish and chip shop was invaluable in supplementing the average family's weekly diet during the Second World War; fish and chips were among the few foods not to be subjected to rationing. Queues were often hours long when the news went out that the chip shop had fresh fish!!

The type of fish most traditionally used in the nation’s chip shops is cod, but as a result of overfishing stocks in the North Sea, cod is becoming more and more rare on Britain’s menus and these days it is often replaced by haddock. Also, as a result of health and safety measures, fish and chips are no longer served in old newspaper, which has been replaced by greaseproof paper, although some establishments use paper made to look like newspaper.

As cultural habits have changed in recent years, curry has overtaken fish and chips as the most commonly eaten takeaway meal, but fish and chips still remains a quintessentially British dish. ■

Many thanks to local French teacher, Sophie Arsac, for the translation of this month's bilingual article. Why not get in touch with Sophie to see how she can help improve your French! See her advert on page 4.

Bilingual Crossword Clues in English - answers in French

B

ien avant que M. McDonald en ait l’idée, la Grande-Bretagne avait déjà une industrie florissante de plats à emporter: «Les Fish and Chips» (« Poisson et Frites »). Il n’y a rien de plus britannique qu’une portion brûlante de «Fish ‘n Chips», enveloppée dans du journal et assaisonnée de sel et de vinaigre de malte. Selon la région où vous vous trouvez, le « fish and chips » peut être servi avec de la purée de pois, une saucisse panée ou même un œuf mariné au vinaigre (oui, tout à fait !)

Nous mangeons du «fish and chips» depuis presque 200 ans car c’est un repas rapide, facile et bon marché. Il y a environ 8 500 magasins de « fish and chips » au Royaume-Uni, soit 8 magasins pour un McDonald, ce qui représente 300 millions de repas par an. La plupart des villes et villages défendent fièrement leur magasin local, «le meilleur du coin».

Traditionnellement, les frites servies dans ces magasins sont plus grandes et plus épaisses que celles que l’on trouve généralement en Europe. Le poisson est

© Charles Haynes (WikiCommons)

L

ong before Mr McDonald had the idea, Britain already had a thriving takeaway industry: Fish and Chips.

There is nothing more British than a portion of piping hot ‘Fish ‘n’ Chips’, wrapped in newspaper and covered in salt and malt vinegar. Depending on what part of the country you are in, your fish and chips may come with mushy peas, a battered sausage or even a pickled egg (yes, really!) on the side.

We have been eating fish and chips as a quick, cheap and easy meal for nearly 200 years. There are around 8,500 fish and chip shops (or ‘chippies’) in the UK today – that’s 8 fish and chip shops for every 1 McDonald’s – serving 300 million meals a year. Most towns and villages will proudly defend their local fish and chip shop as “the best around”.

Traditionally, the chips from a fish and chip shop are bigger and thicker than the French fry you more often find across Europe. The fish is coated in a light batter, often made with beer, before being deep-fried and served wrapped in newspaper with the chips.

Although many will tell you that the French invented the fried potato (or ‘French Fry’), this isn’t actually true.

I lived in Belgium for 6 years and can assure you that while the French put their name to them, the Belgians most certainly were making them first, a fact that they are very proud of (and rightly so – chips in Belgium are hard to beat!)

Chips made their way across the Channel and by the 1800s were a cheap staple of the industrial north of England. At the same time, fried fish was becoming popular in London. With the advent of faster train travel, fresh fish started to make its way inland and the population soon decided that putting fried fish and chips together was a very tasty combination – and so a national dish was born!

The first dedicated fish and chip shops started opening in the 1860s and we have been visiting them regularly

Across:

5. Donkey (3) 6. Insect (7) 8. Feather (5) 9. April (5) 11. Minutes (7) 14. Wharfs (5) 15. Useful (5) 17. Shoulders (7) 18. Friend (3)

enrobé d’une légère panure (souvent agrémentée de bière) avant d’être frit puis servi emballé dans du papier journal avec les frites.

Beaucoup de personnes pensent à tort que ce sont les Français qui ont inventé la frite. J’ai vécu en Belgique pendant 6 ans et je peux vous assurer que ce sont bien les Belges qui ont commencé, même si les Français ont apposé leur nom dessus.

Les Belges sont très fiers de leurs frites (et pour cause: elles sont difficiles à battre!)

Les frites traversèrent la Manche et au 19ème siècle, elles devinrent un aliment de base pour le nord industrialisé de l’Angleterre tandis qu’elles devenaient populaires à Londres. Avec l’apparition du voyage en train, plus rapide, le poisson frais gagna l’intérieur du pays et la population décida rapidement que le mélange du poisson frit et des frites était tout à fait goûteux: un plat national était né!

Le premier magasin de «fish and chips» ouvrit dans les années 1860 et depuis, nous les fréquentons régulièrement. Durant la seconde guerre mondiale, ces magasins étaient d’une valeur inestimable car ils permettaient de compléter le régime alimentaire d’une famille moyenne: en effet, le «fish and chips» faisait partie des rares aliments qui n’étaient pas soumis au rationnement. Lorsque la nouvelle arrivait qu’un magasin avait du poisson frais, les clients faisaient souvent la queue pendant de nombreuses heures!

Le poisson le plus traditionnellement utilisé dans le pays est le cabillaud mais du fait de la surpêche en Mer du Nord, le cabillaud se raréfie dans l’assiette britannique, au profit de l’aiglefin.

Egalement, en raison des règles d’hygiène et de sécurité alimentaires, les «fish and chips» ne sont plus emballés dans du vieux papier journal, qui a été remplacé par du papier sulfurisé, bien que certains établissements utilisent un emballage à l’allure de papier journal.

Les pratiques culturelles ont changé ces dernières années et le curry est devenu le plat à emporter le plus populaire mais le «fish and chips» reste un plat britannique par excellence. ■

Down:

1. Uncle (5) 2. Years (3) 3. Napkin (9) 4. Tin (5) 7. Ambitious (9) 10. Wall (3) 12. Wasp (5) 13. Lead (5) 16. Sea (3) Solutions on page 19

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DIRECTORY ♦ 17

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

ADVERTORIAL

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CONTINUED NEXT PAGE...

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Language Services

La Conciergerie

Learn French in France Complete immersion in a local family with lessons, conversation workshops, visits and local activities in Périgord, all at your own pace. (total independence possible)

www.auclairduperigord.com +33 (0)6 41 37 02 50 d.nina@live.co.uk

Taking care of your home all year round providing you with a wintering service, managing your summer rentals or organising a happy holiday for you.

24600 Villetoureix laconciergerie24@orange.fr Tel: 06 42 67 94 50 siret: 840 556 228 00010

sales24@thebugle.eu

06 04 17 80 93

Retail & Commerce

bookstop

Quality second-hand books in English & French 19 r Victor Hugo, 24310 Brantôme

09 51 45 57 49

Enjoy a relaxing read in the tea room or riverside garden bookstop24@gmail.com facebook.com/bookstop24

USED KITCHENS FRANCE Looking for a designer kitchen with granite worktops and premium appliances at a fraction of RRP? Pre-loved kitchens from brands like Poggenpohl and Bulthaup at usedkitchensfrance.fr 09 53 50 86 49

R.S.M.DISTRIBUTION www.fudgejj.com

Now delivering Mattresses Every 1st / 2nd Mon & Tue of each month From Angoulême to Ribérac area and Limoges to Sarlande area Go to our website for more information

email: ray.mole@wanadoo.fr

Tel: 05 49 87 67 34 Siret 531 167 443 00013

Your advert here 06 04 17 80 93

Support

SOS Help

anxious? stressed? feeling down? call us up!

01 46 21 46 46 3 - 11pm daily Confidential & Non-profit

www.soshelpline.org

Your advert here 06 04 17 80 93 Please mention The Bugle when responding to adverts

Transport, Removals & Storage

Smart Moves For a fully insured, careful service

FORTNIGHTLY SERVICES TO FRANCE FULL OR PART LOADS WELCOME WE COLLECT FROM ALL AREAS OF THE UK AND DELIVER TO ALL AREAS OF FRANCE Please CALL or EMAIL Stephen

smartmovers@hotmail.co.uk

+44 (0)1253 725 414

www.smartmovesremovals.co.uk

Local and European Removals France to France, Spain, Portugal, Italy etc We Offer: Removals, Storage, House Clearance, also Car, Caravan, Plant Transport.

French Registered Business.

Local Friendly Service.

+33 (0)6 73 96 38 39

www.dordognestoragesolutions.com

Man & Van Transport

Genuine/Reliable/Honest Local + Europe + UK runs Now also available for House/Barn clearances!

14m3 capacity 4.2m load length English & French Spoken

09 82 12 69 73 87150 Oradour-sur-Vayres

www.frenchvanman.eu Siret 530 213 644 00012

For more information on advertising in the Bugle Business Directory, give us a call or send us an email: sales24@thebugle.eu

06 04 17 80 93 sales24@thebugle.eu

06 04 17 80 93

COMMUNITY ♦ 19

JANUARY 2019 ○ THE BUGLE ○ www.thebugle.eu

“Fire and Flame” a potting experience

T

his collaborative event will be hosted during the darker months of January, February and March, in order to bring some light into people’s lives here and will be a wonderful way to increase one’s knowledge and skill in the ceramic arena in a relaxed environment.

Alain Devise and Sylph Baier, two local potters in the Mussidan area, have joined forces and created a fun event for budding potters, which they are making available for local French and English people as well as visitors from further afield.

The demand for getting more in touch with making useful things with our hands has increased, and provides a counterbalance to modern life, bringing a greater understanding to the importance of being in touch with one’s own creativity and grounding, in an increased digital and virtual age.

Last year’s series, “The Great Pottery Throw Down” on TV, was much enjoyed by many people and brought to light the incredible skills necessary to work with the clay media.

People of all age groups and with different levels of experience can get access to working with this abundant material and start making their own household ceramics. Clay is one of the most widely available materials on the earth’s crust and it provides a very real alternative for reusable utility items in the light of the great problems which are starting to haunt us by using throwaway plastics.

Alain is a master potter, who has been in the area for over 20 years and is specialising with his wife Florence in intricately decorated wood-fired ceramics and large thrown pieces, using reduction fired glazes. He has a profound knowledge of the local geology and can communicate the formulation of making simple glazes. His glaze chemistry is outstanding, as is his experience of building wood and gas kilns from scratch and firing them with great success! He is also the founder member of “La Maison de la Poterie” and the association “Terra etc...”

Sylph has recently moved over from the UK and has established herself in a 17th century former mill. Her 37 years

potting experience and the production of many successful ranges, has led her to larger premises in France where she is creating a centre for ceramics, permaculture and training holidays. The shop, stocking a selection of quality ceramics, is open on Saturdays during the summer season and otherwise by appointment. “Le Moulin de Leymonie” also benefits from a beautiful gîte near the mill stream, set in tranquil countryside, which can provide accommodation for people from further afield.

Whether you are a total beginner or someone with some experience, the course can be tailored to your needs. There are 5 places per week on electric wheels of different quality makes, a large selection of glazes, electric kilns and the opportunity to learn about geology, throwing and decorating techniques.

For someone who would like to learn other techniques, the equipment for slabbing and coiling are at hand. Or maybe you would like to explore practical and sculptural elements too on a smaller scale. Sylph’s expertise in designing beautiful objects for the home and and her experience with designing functional tableware will guide you.

EASY

All Acorn cats and kittens are microchipped, vaccinated and sterilised where age appropriate. www.associationacorn.com Facebook: Acorn Cat Rescue

Dates: Monday 14th January until Friday 18th January Monday 11th February until Friday 15th February Monday 11th March until Friday 15th March The course is Euro 350 per week + a 20 Euro joining fee for the association Terra etc…

Alain has built many kilns over the years, from gas to wood and raku. The course offers an exciting raku firing with wood at the end of the week, but he also caters for learning the firing schedules, using an electric kiln.

This is as much of a social event as it is a cultural exchange and a skills course and can

Dear little Polly and her chums are the care of Acorn Cat Rescue, Dordogne and are looking for good homes.

be delivered in French, English and German. It will be hosted at “La Maison de la Poterie” in 24400 Beauronne.

MEDIUM

Worship services in English held throughout the Dordogne: Bertric Burée, Chancelade, Eymet Temple, Limeuil, Négrondes, Sainte Nathalène (near Sarlat).

All are welcome!!

Please visit our website for more information: www.churchinaquitaine.org Find us on Facebook: English Church Aquitaine

Programme: Tuition: 6 hours a day Monday to Friday 9:30-12:30 and 14:00-17:00 i.e. 30 hours per week For booking the course only please contact: alain.devise@wanadoo.fr For further information visit www.de-sacy-poterie.com and www.sylphbaier.co.uk B&B is available at Le Moulin de Leymonie if required at Euro 58. This includes the daily shuttle to La Maison de Poterie. Please contact Sylph to book: ceramics@sylphbaier.co.uk

HARD

20 ♦ WHAT’S ON

www.thebugle.eu ○ THE BUGLE ○ JANUARY 2019

WHAT’S

ON

Music in the Dordogne sponsored by ARCADES Join us for concerts in the air conditioned new hall in Le Buisson, mostly of classical music, with top class French,

English, Russian and other international performers. Concert tickets cost €15 including wine in the interval.

All events are organised by volunteers and serve as a meeting ground for the French and international communities of the Dordogne, including ACIP and La Tulipe.

Venue - Le Buisson de Cadouin, salle des fêtes, avenue Aquitaine

For more info, tel 06 31 61 81 68 or 05 53 23 86 22 or visit http://www.arcadesinfo.com/

Sunday 13th January at 4 pm Piano Concert by Japanese pianist Noriko Ogawa

Programme: Mozart: Sonata A maj K331 Debussy: Images Book I; Estampes Rentaro Taki: Grudge (one of the very first piano pieces ever written in Japan)

Exhibition: pablO 9th January to 11th March - Musée d’art et d’archéologie, Périgueux Exhibition of the work of Pablo Correa, a local painter and illustrator born in 1979 in Bergerac.

To view some of his work visit www.facebook.com/PabloFrenchPainter and www.atelierdepablo.com

Yoshihiro Kanno: A Particle of Water for piano and Myochin Hibashi Chopsticks (written for Noriko) Chopin: Waltz Brlliante op.18; Andante Spianato and Grande Polonaise Noriko Ogawa has achieved considerable renown throughout the world since her success at the Leeds International Piano Competition. Her “ravishingly poetic playing” (Telegraph) sets her apart from her contemporaries and acclaim for her complete Debussy series confirms her as a fine Debussy specialist.

Sinfonia La Saison Piano Recital by Jean-Philippe Collard - Friday 18th January at 20:30 Programme: • Tchaikovsky’s Dumka op. 59 • Rachmaninoff - Six Moments musicaux op. 16 • Moussorgsky - Pictures at an Exhibition Renowned French pianist Jean-Philippe Collard offers through this programme a journey with a typically Slavic flavour. To be enjoyed without moderation! « Jean-Philippe Collard is an outwardly quiet performer who does not go in for heart-onthe-sleeve emoting. Instead, he develops his interpretations thoughtfully, establishing a mood or building a dramatic climax almost without one’s being aware of what is happening. As a result, the music seems to live a life of its own, almost independent of the pianist’s ministrations, which is as it should be. » (The New York Times) Centre départemental de la commmunication, Périgueux Tickets: €9-€26. Tel 05 53 08 69 81 or visit sinfonia-en-perigord.com

Thu 24th to Sun 27th Jan ANGOULÊME 46e Festival International de la Bande Dessinée The Angoulême International Comics Festival is the second-largest comics festival in Europe and the thirdlargest in the world and has run every year since 1974.

More than 220,000 visitors come each year to the fair, including 6,000 professionals and 800 journalists. The four-day festival, which takes place at over 20 locations all over the city, is also notable for awarding several prestigious industry prizes.

Opening times: Thursday and Friday from 10 am to 7 pm / Saturday from 10 am to 8 pm / Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm.

Reduced price tickets available by advance purchase. Free for Under 10s.

For more information visit www.bdangouleme.com