ISSUE #2
Cover Shot by Peter Richweisz (www.richweisz.com)
Model wears Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture “Biopiracy” and Iris Van Herpen Shoes Model: Elizabeth, Hair and Make Up: Jojo
www.thecartel.me
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CONTENTS
Introduction 8. Timeline
A Retrospective 10. Our Designers
A Retrospective
12. K/ART /ELE
Designer Stories 14. Kaal E. Suktae
South Korea
18. Solid Gray The Netherlands 52. Iris van Herpen
The Netherlands 78. Kaibosh
Norway 82. Una Burke The UK 86. Hellen Van Rees The Netherlands
Articles 22. On # Instafame
May Barber
36. Underground art movement dubai Danna Lorch 42. Diary of an Arts Blogger
Danna Lorch
58. Copenhagen Fashion Week
May Barber
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CONTENTS
Editorials
26. Bridging Fashion To Academia Collaboration with Sharjah University
44. Avant Garde Retro Concept & Photography by Fatima 90. Style Enlightenment Peter Richweisz
Editor In Chief / Founder May Barber may@thecartel.me
Creative Driector / Founder Peter Richweisz Peter@thecartel.me
Designed by Anoop Prasad anoop@thecartel.me
Visit us 6 Al Serkal Avenue, Dubai, UAE Phone : +971 4 388 4341 www.thecarte.me DISCLAIMER The authors, designers and photographers reserve their rights in regards to copyright of their works. No part of this work may be reproduced, copied or sold without the express written consent of the cartel. The views and opinion expressed in the articles are those of the authors and do no necessarily reflect those of the cARTel. Designers and their parties provide all articles
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EDITORS NOTE
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The Second Issue of the cARTel magazine is born seeing through the light of Art Season once again embodying a new set of milestones throughout the cARTel journey. Gracing our cover is a unique Haute Couture Creation by World’s Leading Art/Tech Designer Iris Van Herpen shot by our own Peter Richweisz, whom we hosetd in a uniquely curated art exhibition happening in the Middle East for the very first time. We also take you through our talent-hunting missions highlighting Paris and Copenhagen Fashion Weeks and the latest Cartellers. This issue also highlights a unique collaboration where fashion meets academia. A Group of talented fashion design students from Sharjah University were asked by their Program Director to design a capsule collection inspired by the cARTel as their university final project. The result was quite impressive and the avant garde pieces were then shot in a beautiful Grafiti-themed editorial. We present you critical articles shouting out our notoriously-critical voice on Instagram and the Instant Rise of Dubai Instafamous. We leave the best to the last and wrap the issue with another yet interplay of fashion, light and geometry in the Style Enlightenment Editorial. Happy Reading.. May Barber Co Founder/Managing Partner
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TIMELINE March 2014
April 2014
May 2014
Rad Hourani Exhibition at the cARTel
The cARTel Goes to the Netherlands
Tahir Sultan Salon Show at the cARTel
The cARTel made an extensive trip to the Netherlands to meet with high-tech designers Iris Van Herpen and Puline Van Dongen for on a curatorial towards the upcoming exhibtions.
The cARTel hosted a salon show by LFW Designer Tahir Sultan featuring selective pieces from his London Fashion Week Runway and Fashion Forward.
July 2014
August 2014
September 2014
Peter Richweisz wins La Jolla Fashion Film Festival
The cARTel Goes to Copenhagen Fashion Week
Black in Color: Capsule Collection by Reemami
Timeline
The cARTel hosted an exclusive exhibtion titled ‘5 Years of Unisex’ with Guest Designer Rad Hourani featuring photography, couture and a theatrical cARTel show.
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July was an exceptionally happy month especially as it witnessed the awarding of Creative Director/ Co Founder Peter Richweisz for his uberly unique fashion film ‘Alchemy’ in La Jolla Fashion Film Festival, Hollywood.
An exciting explorational trip to Copenhagen to discover fresh Scandinavian talents-Read the full story inside!
The cARTel celebrated the launch of a capsule collection by Grazia Best Collaboration Winner Reemami in a night of art, music and fashion
A RETROSPECTION June 2014
July 2014
July 2014
Ashtiani launches her exclusive collection for The cARTel
Night of Style - Ramadan Edition
The cARTel Goes to Paris Haute Couture Week
In anticipation of the holy season of Ramadan, the cARTel collaborated with select local and international designers to create alternative abayas and progressive wraps for the holy month.
The cARTel went to Paris in a surprisingly cold July for Haute Couture Week on a buying mission to source the latest avant garde creations to add to the cARTel family.
October 2014
October 2014
November 2014
The cARTel Opens Middle East Fashion Week
Launch of Ginette NY and Maison Martin Margiela Jewelry
Iris Van Herpen Solo Exhibition at the cARTel
The cARTel opened the first season of Middle East Fashion Week taking place at the prestigious DIFC. The show which featured a theaterical performance paid a homage to the first cARTel fashion film created by Peter Richweisz
The cARTel in collaboration with CB Group launched exclusive jewelry lines by Ginette NY and Maison Martin Margiela presented in a private launch to select audience at Okku.
For the very first time in the Middle East, the cARTel is hosting a solo exhibtion by award winning designer Iris Van Herpen featuring curated collection of her signature timeless Haute Couture pieces.
Timeline
The cARTel welcomed Canada-based designer Ashtiani in an exclusive dinner at Okku with cARTel friends and press to celebrate the launch of her sport-luxe capsule collection for the cARTel.
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Our Designers
OUR DESIGNERS
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Our designers
K/ART/ELLE
According To Wikipedia “an association of manufacturers or suppliers with the purpose of maintaining prices at a high level and restricting competition.“the Columbian drug cartels” historical a coalition or cooperative arrangement between political parties intended to promote a mutual interest.”
According To Webster Dictionary According to Webster dictionary: A written agreement between belligerent nations .1 A combination of independent commercial or industrial .2 Enterprises designed to limit competition or fix prices .3 A combination of political groups for common action .4
k/art/elle
Our Definition
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An Underground creative platform unifying multiple circulating designers under one creative roof
Because we are a union of multi-brands/designers We stock ART (in its multi wearable forms) We are underground and can be somewhat dodgy
• What we Offer Fashion Retail, Fashion Films, Photography, Exhibitions, Shows and More
• Where we are Where we currently are? A cool rugged warehouse in the heart of the Arts District of Dubai, Unit 6 in
• Where we will be? Regional, International, Online.
k/art/elle
Al Serkal Avenue Arts Compound. Virtually. online and on social media
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KAAL E.SUKTAE
designer story
KAAL E.SUKTAE is a high-end brand which is inspired by modernism. It is a modern contemporary concept that persues structural avant-garde approching the street fashion and cultural sensitivity with handcraft method.
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Designer lee Suk Tae graduated at “La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne” and “ Studio berco” in Paris. He was Selected in a young French designers contest in Paris. He also had the opportunity to work in the designing team of Sonia Rykiel Paris headquarters and Christian Dior Paris headquarters. 1997 was the year when he launched his own brand with the name of KAAL E.SUKTAE. On the same year he was selected by the Korean Fashion Association and he was invited to present a collection in the Hong Kong Fashion Week. A year later, in 1988 , designer Lee Suk Tae inaugurated his own store in Galleria Department Store GDS in Apgujungdong and the brand entered to Collected [Seoul] multi-shop. In 1999 KAAL E.SUKTAE joined a performance called “Art & Wear”, Held in Korean national museum of Contemporary Art. From 2000 to 2004 he participated in Y & K New York collection and Lie Sang Bong Paris Collection. In 2004 he created a new design for the uniform requested by Tae Pyong Yang Amore. From 2005 he worked during a few years as a lecturer in KonKuk University. Season after season designer Lee Suk Tae participates regularly in Seoul Fashion Week. In 2010 he was selected to take part in “The Train NY” and was selected to be part of the SEOUL’s 10 Soul Designer and in October of 2010 he began to participate in Paris “Tranoi”.
designer story
Provided by Designer
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designer story
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designer story
SOLID GRAY
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olid Gray is the brainchild of the designers Herman Lijmbach and Jasper de Leeuw. «We believe in creating new things, in innovative products that outshine today’s standards by being nothing like anything else, Highly original, Highly functional. It’s what we call breaking the ordinary.»
designer story
The original Solid Gray backpack is super strong and lightweight. It is made for demanding daily travellers, using an innovative combination of form and material. Solid Gray’s light, strong and durable hardshell is made from a cleverly folded, hi-tech polymer sheet using a minimal amount of material. Solid Gray is designed with a simple goal in mind: to protect the valuable items you carry with you, day in day out. Solid Gray products are made in the Netherlands. They’re made to last a lifetime, but fit for recycling after years of service.
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WELCOME TO THE
Provided by Designer
designer story
FUTURE
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SOLID GRAY
Body : Polypropene block copolymer
designer story
No mechanical variations were observed after 2000 hours in a U.V. high-speed weathering test. This test replicates sun light, humidity and rain. Stability of coloring additives rated 7 to 8 on the wool scale. The wool scale ranges from 1 to 8, with 8 being the highest.
Padding Straps Elastic Rivets Weight Volume Origin
: Ethylene propylene diene monomer : Polypropene : Natural latex rubber : Aluminum : 1150 gr. : 15 litres : The Netherlands
Exterior Dimensions : 500 x 320 x 200 mm
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designer story
The first run of Solid Gray backpacks sold out within a month, sparked by a storm of on- and offline media coverage. This initial success was followed by appearances in national newspapers and international magazines including Penthouse, Playstation Magazine and WIRED. Since then Solid Gray has found its way into a design museum, books, events, advertising campaigns, the latest Star Trek movie, music videos, TV, opera... and the list continues to grow.
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On # INSTAFAME
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Article
ot Jesus, Mohammad, political leaders or revolution masterminds, there is a whole new connotation to terms like ‘follow’ and ‘followers’. Instagram, a medium deemed by Slate magazine as «the most depressing social media channel» is no doubt creating a rise of narcissism fed by numbers and virtual love while prescribing a quick recipe to making a person or a business successful or worth ‘looking’ at. Using what can be referred to as the grey area of ‹stalkerism›, you can browse through thousands of photos of various profiles of people and choose to “follow” who you find interesting and worth your faith, while
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secretly shying behind your smartphone. Unlike Facebook, where there is an even almost socially acceptable sense of equality between users since both parties agree to a ‘friendship’ relation whereby they access and write on each other’s profiles; the dynamics of Instagram is more of an internet masochism, a leader and follower, master and slave, celebrity and stalker; you either work hard on your visuals to nominate yourself as a ‘dominant’; or you accept to openly put yourself as the submissive ‘follower’. But beyond the masochistically-endorsed nature of the 1billion dollars medium, we are not concerned about the secret life of jealous stalkers, the challenge the medium is imposing on photographers and artists, the vicious virtual reality, the filters, nor
May Barber
the apps that can organize and monitor your followers to make sure whether they are still true and faithful to your religion, we are concerned about the new ‘social’ layer being introduced. It is not about who you are and what you achieved; the real question is ‘How many’, followers you have?
Instagram is more of an internet masochism, a leader and follower, master and slave, celebrity and stalker; you either work hard on your visuals to nominate yourself as a ‘dominant’; or you accept to openly put yourself as the submissive ‘follower’.
There was a time when it was normal to ask ‘what is it that you really do’ when you hear
Article
If you have a private profile like mine, then you are missing out on this exciting extravaganza of Instagram heroes and the silent battles between its celebrities; the Instagrammers.
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Article
On # INSTAFAME
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May Barber
A few months ago, we posted on our own Instagram a quote saying, “Satwa, minimum waged labor and Instagram do not make you a designer”. When the quote backfired by people feeling rather offended, the truth became clear. A few people in Dubai wish to be challenged enough to make it in the fashion industry. The majority chose to enhance their photos rather than their careers and pile photos and followers instead of achievements and qualifications. After all, leading hotels, fashion houses and even restaurants are willing to pay X amount of dirhams for a post or are simply awaiting that ‹thank you for my delicious cupcakes› public note. All of a sudden you realize the irony of the situation, the person who walked in your store demanding diva services whom you turned down or a sloppy employee whom you fired are, according to this new criteria, important because in the heart of your thorough background check lies the ultimate source you forgot to check, Instagram.
In a country where it is normal to hear terms like VIP, VVIP , VVVIPs and the multiplicity goes on, this imposes a challenge of a different nature. How do you classify this nouveaux riche of fashion celebrities? Where do you seat them in fashion shows? How do you keep up with the instant rise and decline of fame in a generation where singers graduate from YouTube and fashionistas rise from Instagram? Yes, it is normal to hear a statement like “oh, they’re not that big; only at 500 followers”, but Instagram is not only perplexing the reality with the virtual; it is manipulating the dimensions of space and time. Is it acceptable to apply a 1970s filter to a picture dating 2014? Why is it that we find a lot of Rise-filtered photos on posts taken end of the day? In short, Instagram is the rendering of architecture; the polished too realistic-looking building we create on the computer, but never the real thing, an architecture of hollow pillars and vacuum spaces. By the time this article gets published, perhaps a new social media channel might take over. The dynamics of Instagram and its influences on social behavior and business models, particularly in fashion terms, is a case worth investigating. After all, posts do get ‘viral’; lets hope the virus doesn’t get through to the people. -May Barber
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a statement of ‘I am a blogger’. Thanks to social media, many Instagram bubbles are inflated everyday with its heroes feeding their profiles (and their egos) with bikini photos, a nice soufflé picture, the cliché Eiffel tower in the back selfie, shoes of the day, outfit of the day, etc. and in the discourse of fashion, this becomes quite alarming when fashion brands all of a sudden associate their 50+ years of brand history and legacy with a 5 months instagrammer who made the toll.
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Bridging Fashion to Academia
The cARTel Collaborates with Young Talents from Sharjah University
B editorial
eing more than a gallery and concept store, the cARTel engages in uniquely-designed collaborations with individuals and institutions reinforcing its positioning as a boundless platform to showcase, educate and trigger creative flow of communication. On our quest of hunting rising talents, we decided to explore the domestic scene and collaborated with Junior Year Fashion Design Students at Sharjah University, Jumana Y, Fatima Khalid, and Haya Sami, in liase with Head of Program, Dr. Lezly George. We gave those aspiring fashion designers a brief to produce a capsule collection for The cARTel that incorporated their perception of us, our concept and design philosophy. Currently housing over 50 eclectic designers curated from around the world, it was rather a challenge for them to take all these different constituents and come up with their own single interpretation of The cARTel especially with the exercise in itself being a group work relying on sharing various individual design languages. Nevertheless the final product which was demonstrated at the cARTel in a visual presentation showcasing the extracted themes, process and of course the collection, was quite impressive for us and for the students.
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Collaboration with Sharjah University
Narrated by Sharjah University Student Jumana
As part of our university curriculum, towards the end of the junior year, we were asked to work in teams collaboratively with a designer/retailer to gain substantial insight and first hand experience in the real world of fashion.
Combining these methodologies of design and looking into different processes, we were able to shape a shared vision for a set of three diverse designers in order to create a capsule collection that was unique and conceptual, but still had appeal to be retailed and worn.
editorial
Our capsule collection was to be designed for The cARTel, Dubai. Initially one of the challenges faced were to combine our points of view; being three distinct aspiring designers with unique aesthetics, and finding common ground to create a final piece of work that was suitable for The cARTel and depicted our understanding of the concept showroom in our work. A starting point to our journey was to inspect the cARTel’s philosophy from different angles; how art and fashion merge homogenously and the different outcomes created by various artists in that field. From there, a key reference point to us was an artistic movement we saw could be linked to the narrative we developed for our collection. The collection displays the tension between machinery and mankind in some constituents and finds its artistic roots in the movement of abstract expressionism. It portrays different elements that are all part of the final piece, but alone could be recombined into something entirely different – just like a machine. It also looks at the human psyche in a more poetic context, examining our thought process and the subconscious handling of things that has somewhat become more machine-like –so to say. The capsule collection plays on these elements to create a symbiosis between the two opposite ends of the spectrum. Not only concept-wise but also design-wise, as we aimed towards combining fluidity and structure as well as symmetry, asymmetry, and multifunctionality. To generate an interesting final outcome, we explored different fabrics and fabric manipulation processes, including hand-dying/painting unusual fabrics or creating digital print designs for them. A focal point was the multi-functionality of our garments, which is traced back to our concept, displaying the more ‘machine-like’ side of things, but also being fit for the cARTel customer, who is an innovative risk taker that invests into unique items.
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Photographer: Peter Richweisz Clothes Designed by: Sharjah University Students [Fatima Khalid, Haya Sami, Jumana Y.] Hair and Make up By: Ron Bojacan Model: Justin Provided by: MMG, Dubai
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The cARTel Goes
Rad Hourani Couture Show-July 2014
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paris haute Couture week
Tom Zauke
Peter Richweisz And Rad Hourani
Dalaleo
Tsolo Munkh
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underground art
Danna Lorch A former marble factory owned by the Alserkal family, locals with an altruistic reputation as patrons of UAE arts, Alserkal Avenue, which is now home to more than 20 art galleries, design showrooms, and creative spaces is set to double in size in time for the 9th edition of Art Dubai in March, 2014
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pm in Al Quoz. Not a star in the sky. The night is a foggy blue, a shade deep enough for the French artist Yves Klein to have dipped his paintbrush in before whisking it thickly against the stretched linen canvas. The nearest bright light shines from a Pakistani cafeteria, an after work meeting place for the city’s workers, some of whom live in the immense labor camps just a few kilometers away.
I pull into Alserkal Avenue slowly, turn right down an alleyway, the car’s wheels knocking along on uneven asphalt. The surrounding warehouses appear locked and deserted. Shadows of dumpsters, old 4x4s, and steel piping look menacing here at night, like a set from an action film. I’m all but expecting a masked martial artist to somersault out in front of the car and ambush me here. I ignore my overactive imagination and step gingerly into the alleyway. It took me months of getting disoriented among the labyrinth of streets and circles in the surrounding
movement In dubai
A lost looking blonde in a trendy chartreuse jumpsuit appears from nowhere, nervously attempting to find the cARTel for the launch of Reemami’s latest Frida Kahlo inspired collection. She teeters behind me on stilettos as I push open a discreetly marked door. Instantly I’m inundated with indie music, the flash of photographer’s cameras, and pulled into a fashionable crowd of artists, bloggers, and stylists. Everyone is decadently nibbling sushi rolls while studying edgy designs that organically share the striking
design space. It’s as if I’ve stepped into a secret city within my city, miles away from the iconic skyscrapers, luxury hotels and cookie cutter shopping malls that have built Dubai’s global reputation. There are no tourists in sight. A former marble factory owned by the Alserkal family, locals with an altruistic reputation as patrons of UAE arts, Alserkal Avenue, which is now home to more than 20 art galleries, design showrooms, and creative spaces is set to double in size in time for the 9th edition of Art Dubai in March, 2014. Over the past 7 years the
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industrial area of Al Quoz until I could smoothly navigate my way here.
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underground art
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movement In dubai even further afield in Europe or South Asia. Carbon 12, founded by the approachable, wonderfully eccentric duo Nadine Knotzer and Kourosh Nouri, has quickly gained an international reputation as one of the first galleries in the region to experiment with performance art. They brought a room of sartorialists to tears one night back in 2013 when German artist Anahita Razmi opened her solo show Re/Cut by donning a classic black Gucci cocktail dress and unsettling asking each person attending the opening to rip it to shreds by cutting a portion directly from her body. Regular Al Quoz-wide art nights are packed with collectors, media, babies, and bankers, and really quite the place to spot the best
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community has come about organically in the center of the city’s industrial district, surrounded by auto repair shops, factories, and the local cemetery. First came Ayyam Gallery, which is known for a strong program of contemporary Arab art and for throwing regular young collector’s auctions that draw hundred of hip professionals with blank walls, savvy taste and a thing for the adrenaline that comes with public bidding. Other serious galleries including Lawrie Shabibi and Gallery Isabelle van den Eynde rapidly grew up around Ayyam and the area was transformed into a hub for artists to present work from countries that are not as easily accessible or as open to creative expression as the UAE. It’s not uncommon here to discover work from Syria, Saudi Arabia, Iran, Egypt, Palestine, and from
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underground art
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of the city’s street style and share in the excitement that surrounds multiple simultaneous exhibition openings. Even though I appreciate the buzz, I secretly prefer wandering alone through the galleries on a quiet Saturday afternoon. I’m not intimidated by the silence or the leggy gallerinas who sometimes ignore me. I ask stupid questions if I don’t understand what I’m viewing—this is the only way I’ve come to really learn about art. I’m not afraid to admit that something doesn’t resonate with me, even if it’s a sculpture by a well-known conceptual artist. On the other hand, sometimes I fall in (art) love at first sight. I’m still dreaming about the neon
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sculpture by Rana Begum that caught my eye more than a year ago over at The Third Line. Almost every week a new gallery, design space, or unique independent business concept opens its doors around Al Quoz. There’s The Zoo Skatepark, Dubai’s largest indoor skatepark, which has recently set up shop in a sand covered warehouse, pulling in graffiti artists and skaters alike, and further adding to the area’s street culture. Tom & Serg, a newcomer restaurant set up in a reworked industrial space, brews the best coffee in town and has become somewhat of a flagship for the city’s
movement In dubai
The restaurant is delicious but way too expensive for the artists, who tend to order cheap, greasy schwarma delivery and hole up for days in their un-renovated studios, playing Umm Kulthum songs on repeat, ignoring social media, and pushing towards an
upcoming show at whichever gallery might represent them. The artists and designers themselves are the real reason this place is here. Wander past the back doors and parked cars and you’re sure to find groups of creatives chain smoking cigarettes and debating aloud whether or not they’re satisfied with their latest work. Introduce yourself and join in. If you have a reliable map, possess a healthy sense of adventure, and embrace the inevitability of growing hopelessly lost, then the underground arts and design community of Dubai can quickly become your scene too.
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budding hipster crowd. Sometimes I pop in for a lunchtime salad with my writer girlfriends and encounter tables upon tables of gallerists, dressed all in black like a bunch of sleek crows, air kissing and comparing notes on their iPads. Their sense of style and the deep relationships many of them cultivate with their artists is enviable.
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Diary of an
One day in Al Quoz 11am: Throw all my notebooks, pens, and dictaphone in the Rita Szilas bag I picked up at the CARTel. It’s the keys and cartridge from a real 70’s typewriter cleverly repurposed into a messenger bag. Perfect for a writer.
11:05am: Grab a cab to Al Quoz and pull out my Art Map to guide the driver. Although he’s been in Dubai 7 years, the cabbie has never heard of any galleries or design spaces in the area. We screech to a dramatic stop at the security gate of the nondescript gray compound that has come to feel like home, Alserkal Avenue.
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12:00 pm: Take some time out at the cARTel to admire the capsule collection of alternative abayas from local brand KBT Koncept. One of these unusual designs would be perfect for the opening of Art Abu Dhabi in a few months. I love the PVC plastic panel and edgy denim.
12:15pm: Bravely walk the 5 minutes
Museum, the region’s first private art museum, and scan the cavernous exhibition space to take a first view of the Amir Hossein Zanjani show. Magically, there’s not a soul in sight and I’m alone with the canvases.
down the road, past the auto repair shop, and expansion site for Alserkal Avenue, through Courtyard, a quirky building filled with quirky galleries and interior design showrooms and out the other side to Limetree Café where I order a vegetarian quiche and a fresh watermelon juice, put on my blue spectacles, and read a dog eared copy of Rilke’s Letters To A Young Poet.
11:45am: Part the heavy double doors
1:30pm: Wander into The Third Line
at A4 Space where I often write. It’s a free library, workspace, and cafe open to the community. I wave hello to the filmmaker and the actress meeting at the long table, pick up a cold lemonade and
and go straight to the Project Space, a small gallery upstairs dedicated to emerging artists. I enjoy viewing Farah Al Qasimi’s latest series of photographs, “The World is Sinking,” all of which
11:20am: Pop into Salsali Private
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meet street artist Myne and Yours for an informal interview in the reading nook upstairs.
Arts Blogger
were shot around Dubai.
2:00pm: Take time out to view the pop artist Maria Iqbal’s latest collection of handpainted bags. Get lost on my way to the studio. Where’s that map again?
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Danna Lorch
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Avant Garde Retro Concept & Photographer: Fatima Styling By: Clare Geeves Hair and Make up By: Lorna Butler Models: Magda R [MMG] and Chris [Wilhelmina]
Models wear dresses and sunglasses by Bambah Boutique Shoes: Models’ own Hair band: The Exposed House
Model wears white shirt b yD ora Tokai at the cARTel
Model wears dresses by Dina JSR Fur: Stylist’s Own
Model wears dress by The Exposed House Hat By Bambah Boutique Earrings and Glasses By Fashlink.com
Model wears dress by The Exposed House Hat By Bambah Boutique Earrings and Glasses By Fashlink.com
Model wears Jacket by Hemyca at the cARTel Sunglasses By Bambah Boutique
Model wears leather dress by Dora Tokai at the cARTel Sunglasses By Bambah Boutique
Model wears bikibi, earrings and sunglasses by Fashlink.com
Model wears bikibi by Fashlink.com, swimmer cap by Bambah Boutique, Fur Jacket: Stylist’s Own Vintage Vogue: Fashlink.com
IRIS VAN HERPEN
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Normal rules don’t apply…..
Iris van Herpen stands for a reciprocity between craftsmanship and innovation in technique and materials. She creates a modern view on Haute Couture that combines fine handwork techniques with digital technology .Van Herpen forces fashion to the extreme contradiction between beauty and regeneration. It is her unique way to reevaluate reality and so to express and underline individuality.
designer story
The essence of van Herpen is expressing the character and emotions of a woman and to extend the shape of the feminine body in detail. She mixes craftsmanshipusing old and forgotten techniques- with innovation and materials inspired on the world to come.
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“For me fashion is an expression of art that is very close related to me and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, moods and cultural setting. In all my work I try to make clear that fashion is an artistic expression, showing and wearing art, and not just a functional and devoid of content or commercial tool. With my work I intend to show that fashion can certainly have an added value to the world, that it can be timeless and that its consumption can be less important then its beginning. Wearing clothing creates an exciting and imperative form of self-expression. ‹Form follows function› is not a slogan with which I concur. On the contrary, I find that forms complement and change the body and thus the emotion. Movement, so essential to and in the body, is just as important in my work. By bringing form, structure and materials together in a new manner, I try to suggest and realize optimal tension and movement.” Iris her designs require every time an unique treatment of material or even the creation of complete new materials. For this reason, Van Herpen prefers interdisciplinary research and often collaborates with other artists or scientists.
designer story
Provided by Designer
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designer story
IRIS VAN HERPEN
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COPENHAGEN
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n our quest of unveiling new talents, we continue to explore non-conventional fashion weeks and their offerings of unique talents. We had our eyes on Copenhagen Fashion Week after we fell in love with the sculptural avant garde creations of Anne Sofie Madsen and the poetic language of Barbara Gongini, thus our calendar was booked and so was the ticket.
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FASHION WEEK
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Story by: May Barber Photography By: Tom Mckenzie
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COPENHAGEN
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FASHION WEEK
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BARBARA GONGINI
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he show set in an iconic city landmark, Cityhall, started a bit late and was massively attended with further rows created by people standing in the back. Strong vibes of music and after the first two looks, you immediately ‘get it’. The aesthetics, the grunginess and rawness of the showpieces, were beautifully narrated with models almost recalling the Disney Princess Merida fairytale. With theatrical poses and gestures, models sporting long thick orange-golden hair and raw black leather Asian-inspired pieces narrated the story of Barbara Gongini’s collection. Once the fairytale was over, the princes was revealed, Ms. Gongini herself who showed her signature natural orange-golden locks, the spell that was embodied in the models and the show. Meeting her backstage and later, we got to see the rather calm spirit of Ms. Gongini set against her firey hair and loud take onto fashion. The pieces were quite daring for a Scandinavian brand, but reflected the overall Scandinavian tendency of moving beyond the market’s dictation and the influences from Asian styles.
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In the plaza facing City hall, the Scandinavian ‘fashionistas’ gathered hoping to be captured by streetstyle photographers. Was it is crazy as Paris, London or New York? No. In fact, some locals in Copenhagen did not realize it was fashion week, or rather did not anticipate that the event would attract international visitors (especially when you drop in the word Dubai). But the chilled version of fashion week was quite nice to enjoy and rather refreshing.
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BARBARA GONGINI
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CIFF
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copenhagen international fashion fair
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Arrived in the beautiful Danish capital where we got lucky with the weather which can easily be described as ‘warm’ , yes for someone coming from Dubai. We hit the CIFF Trade Fair and immediately identified the zone that is relevant to us; experimental designers doing contemporary ready-to-wear and jewellery using individual aesthetics. We immediately loved the constructive approach of Mark Kenly Tan creations, which seemed rather heavy for UAE climate, but its visual weight using signature Danish furniture fabric was rather interesting. We had a quick preview of David Andersen sporty lux collection and pleats and foam meets sportswear of Maikel Tawadros along with a few other contemporary brands before heading to their shows over the following few days. The designers are diverse but there is still that subtle Sacndinavian aesthetics prevailing in most of the work, except with a few who decided to offer something more risky and cuttinge-edge.
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The Jewellery
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t was a beautiful summer day when we arrived to the venue. Scandinavia’s Fashion editor Mie Juel of Elle Denmark and Eva Kruse, Head of The Danish Fashion Institute were there on time taking their seats in an outdoor brunch-like set up of a two-storey garden with bubbles in glasses and hanging frames in the air. I sat down next to the event organizer, Ann Herthe Director of Fashion Exclusive, and the only other Arab-media representative, the glowing Catherina Minthe from Style.com/Arabia. The Dubai group assumed their seats and the show began unveiling models with natural looks sporting nothing but long white shirts and of course the jewellery pieces. They stopped beneath the hanging frames for a quick pose before moving to the next level. The jewelery show was composed of 12 designers, showcasing variations of light pieces to high-end jewelery. The show which was set like a brunch was proceeded with an actual brunch set within a small gallery fair: the Jewellery Room. The jewellery room allowed us to have a close look at the show pieces and their respective collections; it also introduced other non-participant jewellery designers. We were immediately drawn to Ms. Vibe Harsloef. Standing next to her unit and sporting not only the common anklets on her feet, but rather a uniquely sculpted sharp foot jewelery with black heels. With a glance at her unit, we immediately realized that foot jewelery was her specialty offering a nice range of pieces that you could sport directly on the feet or to stylize your sneakers. The brand which is now stocked exclusively at the cARTel, offers interesting sharply sculpted gold and silver plated hand cuffs as well.
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openhagen Fashion week offered 3 trade fairs, The Gallery, Vision and CIFF. The Gallery which was set near the Royal Academy of Music offered more range of designers and products not necessarily from Scandinavia only. The multi-storey venue with a massive sky light heating up the display units in the center, offered a generous number of brands. A chat followed by a quick edit at Henrik Vibskov, a designer to watch doing men’s wear and women’s wear and showing in Copenhagen and Paris, was followed by a long stop at ‘Kaibosh’ sunglasses brand. We were immeditaley struck by the reversible sunglasses and had a long chat with their brand representative who explained that the former optician brand took their expertise in optics and integrated it with modern fashion aesthetics and interesting multi-functions. The sunglasses will be available in spring in the cARTel offering a wide range of colors and styles, but their main forte is quality, good price point and obviously the twoin-one sunglasses.
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The Gallery Heading upstairs for a long overdue coffee, we were drawn to a very avant garde unit with intricate draping and large volumes. The guy standing next to them was Asian’looking (naturally). This unanticipated surprise was a source of joy; avant garde wear with Asian twist (sounds like our recipe for fashion) was refreshing to see after several units showcasing mainstream ready-to-wear. Max Tan, the brand, started in the market a few years back and the brand representative mentioned how they have been showing in Copenhagen for 2 seasons already. I tried on a garment that looked like a long black abaya with big volumes at the shoulders and exaggarted pockets on a hot foam-like fabric. Other pieces included a jacket with a detachable hood that can be worn as a cool trench coat or a large bolero. The intelligence behind the making of the clothes was to respect and we are glad to be working with Max Tan in the cARTel to offer exciting wardrobe pieces with rich capacities. Other popular shows included Stine Ladefoged and Baumundpferdgarten, which work very well in the German and Scandinavian Markets. Baume are expanding their presence globally by offering sporty and functional ready-to-wear.
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The back-to-back schedule of shows, showroom visits, and parties of course ended with a last morning meeting before the noon flight to Netherlands, this time with Mark Kenly Tan. Not to be confused with Max Tan mentioned earlier, Mark Tan is a half Korean half Danish designer specializing in sculpted evening wear and contemporary ready-to-wear with exaggerated volumes and high end aesthetics. Using the finest of silks juxtaposed against a popular Danish furniture fabric, Mark Tan’s creations offer tranquility, luxury fused with a contemporary look. A coffee first before leading me to his newly opened boutique, we went 3 flights upstairs to his studio where we saw the collection in scrutiny.
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Being the only buyer from Dubai in Copenhagen fashion week was quite exciting not only because it made it very easy for people to remember us and point at us in every show or party, but because it showcased our key strength and serious commitment in offering the region something new and exciting by taking the road less traveled by. Copenhagen fashion week – until next season! - May Barber
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The cARTel Goes
Hussein Chalayan Show-SS 15 Issey Miyake Show-SS 15
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For paris ready to wear SS15
Anne Sophie Madsen Show-SS 15 Iris Van Herpen Show-SS 15
KAIBOSH
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small design company situated in Bergen, Norway has set out on an ambitious mission; to revolutionize the way we buy and use eyewear. KAIBOSH burst to life in 2013 as a response to insights the company had uncovered into the behaviour of eyewear users. “Glasses are situated right in the middle of your face, and it’s the first thing people notice about you” says Kaibosh’s Co-Founder & Creative Director, Helge Flo. “We often noticed a mis-match between people’s style and their glasses; people were holding on to an out-dated pair of frames due to the cost and inconvenience of replacing them.” So they decided to create a new brand which removes these barriers and takes eyewear out of the traditional optical channel and into the world of fashion. KAIBOSH is a true multi-channel concept selling on-line at KAIBOSH. COM, through shop-in-shop solutions in leading fashion and lifestyle stores such as the cARTel in the Middle East, and in inspiring KAIBOSH signature spaces in Bergen & Copenhagen. Eyewear is first of all an accessory, just as much as shoes, bags and jewellery- says Michelle Rowley, Co-Founder & Marketing Director at KAIBOSH. “We want to make our glasses available where people are buying other fashion items, when they are in the right frame of mind and in an inspirational environment.” Design plays a leading role in the entire concept from the easy-tounderstand affordable pricing right through to the experience of opening a KAIBOSH package at home. The glasses and sunglasses themselves radiate quality design with an elegant Scandinavian simplicity. In its first year KAIBOSH was awarded the Nåløyet, the highest accolade in the Norwegian fashion industry, as well as being nominated for the Honours Award for Design Excellence by the Norwegian Design Council.
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ĂšNA BURKE
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Studying for her Masters in Fashion Artefact at the prestigious Cordwainers College at the London College of Fashion, Úna›s graduate collection won the 2009 Design Award for Best Static Collection. She set up her eponymous fashion label in 2010 and went on to win several more national and international awards, including ‘Irish Designer of the Year 2011 and nomination for WGSN’s Global Fashion Awards in New York. Úna‘s work has been exhibited in over twenty countries throughout Europe, Asia, USA and the Middle East.
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na Burke is a multi-award winning Luxury Leather Accessories Designer and Artist. Using traditional leatherworking techniques in her distinctly complex constructions, Úna makes both seasonal fashion accessories collections and sculptural art pieces. The accessories collections are concept based and there are often human stories behind the designs since influence is taken from psychological, military and medical sources. The Art pieces figurative in form and are developed on a commission basis for private art collections, public exhibitions and museum archives. Úna›s clients and collaborators include Phillip Lim, Seoul›s Simone Handbag Museum, The National Museum of Ireland and and Nick Knights creative laboratory ‹SHOWstudio›.
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ĂšNA BURKE
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Aside from seasonal collections, Úna regularly collaborates with other designers and brands including unisex brand Unconditional, Hong Kong boutique Joyce, lingerie label Lascivious, glassware company The Irish Handmade Glass Company, and Illustrator Spiros Halaris. She has produced costumes for high profile film and stage performances including an arm brace for Jennifer Lawrence, aka Katniss Everdeen, in The Hunger Games and several pieces for the lead character in a Baroque Opera Performance at Innsbruck Festival of Early Music. Other projects include commissions for big name brands such a L’Oreal and Fox Network.
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Úna Burke leather accessories are timeless, elegant, considered and sculptural. They are designed for the discerning customer who appreciates quality and creativity. All styles are crafted entirely by hand in the Úna Burke Atelier in South London and are made using only the best Vegetable Tanned leathers and solid brass fittings from the UK and Italy, earning the brand the ‹Positive Luxury Butterfly Trust Mark›. With such an avant garde design style, it›s little wonder that the brand has developed such a strong celebrity following all over the world. These include Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Madonna, Heidi Klum, Lebanese singer and actress Haifa Wehbe, Taiwanese popstar Elva and fashion icon Daphne Guinness. Collections regularly appear in publications such as Vogue, i-D, Collezioni and Numero and they are stocked in stores worldwide.
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HELLEN VAN REES
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ellen van Rees is a Dutch fashion and textile designer who graduated with a prestigious MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins in London in February 2012. Before that she finished the BA Fashion design at ArtEZ Institute for the Arts in Arnhem, The Netherlands.
Hellen van Rees has also been selected as one of 30 designers out of 1221 applicants to continue through to the semi-finals of the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize 2014. Hellen van Rees’ collections are based on traditional feminine silhouettes, executed in a more raw and modern context. The collections feature signature handmade fabrics, sometimes featuring 3 Dimensional elements, inspired by contemporary art installations. Her handmade fabrics are unique in their design and manufacturing process. A constant search for contrasts and textures keeps the work fresh and innovative. Most materials are made sustainably by using production left overs and/or organic textiles.
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After graduating she started her own label. Her first collection was shown during London and Paris Fashion week and was named “One to Watch” by London design platform Fashion Scout. Around the same time Lady Gaga was seen wearing an outfit by this young designer. In July 2013 she won the Humanity in Fashion Award during Berlin Fashion Week. The award, initiated by Hessnatur, recognizes young and rising designers who create clothing on the basis of sustainability.
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HELLEN VAN REES Autumn-Winter’14
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For Autumn-Winter’14 (Hellens 4th collection) Hellen has applied her textile techniques in a different way thus creating a new result using the same principles of manufacture. In addition, she added an especially embroidered fabric “Nakshi Kantha,” a traditional Bangladeshi embroidery technique applied in a modern context. By using this fair trade textile she also helps women in impoverished regions earning a decent wage by applying their craftsmanship. The collection itself features a mix of grungy elements and constructivism in the garments and textures, thus juxtaposing rawness and geometric clear lines.
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Model wears Jumper by Balmung, at the cARTel Scarf by Charlie Design Belt by Amber Feroz Shorts by Rad Hourani at the cARTel Shoes: Model’s own
Style Enlightenment
Photography By: Peter Richweisz Styling By: Peter Richweisz and Amber Feroz Haire and Make up By Jojo Dantespadua
Models: Krimo Yahyaoui [The Agency], Aline T [Wilhelmina]
Model wears Unisex Transformable Vest by Rad Hourani at the cARTel Sleeveless Tonic by Path at the cARTel Unisex Pants by Amber Feroz Shoes: Model’s own
Model wears Asymmetric jacket by Byungmun Seo at the cARTel Top, Belt and Unisex Skirt by Amber Feroz at the cARTel Shoes: Amber Feroz
Model wears vest by Amber Feroz at the cARTel
Model wears X Suspension Top by Kaal Suktae at the cARTel White Wrap Top by Amber Feroz at the cARTel
Model wears Black & White Top by Amber Feroz at the cARTel Trousers by Rad Hourani at the cARTel
Model wears Mesh and Leather Jacket by Byungmun Seo at the cARTel Black Top and Color Block Geo Trousers by Amber Feroz at the cARTel
Model wears White Backpack by Solid Gray at the cARTel Black Top with Zip, Drop-crotch Tapered Trousers and Black Shoes by Amber Feroz at the cARTel
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