Shavings Volume 14 Number 2 (July 1992)

2 SHAVINGS July 1992

Table of Contents Program of Events Cast Off! Maritime Memories CWB Calendar of Events The Power of Four Meet The Experts A Letter And A Review Of Kayaks and Wood Letters from Afloat Mapping the Coast

3 4 4 5 5 6 7 8 10 14

On The Cover: R. A. "Ritchie" Benson draws on his love of boats, lighthouses and anything nautical for his paintings, which have w o n numerous prizes including Watercolor Society Best of Show. A member of the American Watercolor Society and the National Watercolor Society, he has had two one-man shows at Seattle's Frye M u s e u m and has done five Pike Place Market posters. He lives in Coupeville, Washington, in a boathouse/studio over the water.

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July 1992 SHAVINGS 3

Special

Events

C A U L K I N G F O R K I D S - M a s t e r shipwright L e e Ehrheart enlists the aid of y o u n g "apprentices" to s h o w that caulking c a n be d o n e by a n y o n e . 3 p.m, Friday, north side of the Armory.

S E A T T L E S T O R Y T E L L E R S ' GUILD P R E S E N T S T A L E S O F T H E S E V E N S E A S - A n enchanting evening o f s e a s i d e storytelling b y s o m e of Seattle's finest. Folktales, pirate legends a n d true-life ghost stories, 8 p.m. Friday, B o a t h o u s e . $5 a d m i s s i o n benefits C W B .

Q U I C K A N D D A R I N G B O A T B U I L D I N G C O N T E S T - Two-person t e a m s race to s e e w h o c a n build a fast, seaworthy boat in a short amount of time. T h e n they race them! Boatbuilding begins at noon Friday and Saturday next to the Big Tent; racing's S u n d a y at 3 p.m.

PROGRAM OF EVENTS FRIDAY, JULY 3 10 A . M . to 6 P.M. 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

Noon 12:30 p.m.

1 p.m.

1:30 p.m.

2 p.m.

2:30 p.m.

3 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

All Day

8 p.m.

Silent Auction - Big Tent Quick and Daring boat building - adjacent to Big Tent Steve Philipp - Maritime Skills of the Puget Sound Indians - Armory Lee Ehrheart - Caulking demonstration - north side of Armory Ron Mueller - Stitch and Glue seminar - Armory Brion Toss - Rigging As A Performance Art - west side of Armory Rich Kolin - Oarmaking seminar - CWB Boatshop Lee Ehrheart and "apprentices" - Caulking for Kids - north side of Armory Tall Ships - North Quay Watercolors - R. A. "Ritchie" Benson - north side of Armory Toy Boat Building - Naval Reserve Grounds "Historic Ships of Puget Sound" - Armory Stitch and Glue construction - Wayland Marine display - Armory Knotwork with Dennis Armstrong Water Taxi tours - board at CWB Boathouse or north end of show moorage area Ballots for People's Choice and Boatbuilders Choice Awards and entries for the boat drawing - CWB store, west side of Armory Seattle Storytellers Guild - CWB Boathouse - $5 admission benefits CWB

SATURDAY, JULY 4 10 A . M . TO 7 P.M. 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

11 a.m.

11:30 a.m.

Silent auction bidding - Big Tent Mike Oswald - Care and Feeding of the British Seagull - Armory Clancy races Rich Kolin - Oarmaking seminar - CWB Boatshop noon Quick & Daring Boat Building Contest - adjacent to Big Tent 12:30 p.m.

Steve Philipp - Maritime Skills of the Puget Sound Indians - Armory 1 p.m.

Lee Ehrheart - Caulking demonstration - north side of Armory 1:30 p.m.

Ron Mueller - Stitch and Glue seminar - Armory 2 p.m.

Brion Toss - Rigging As A Performance Art - west side of Armory 2:30 p.m.

"How To Buy A Wooden Boat" panel discussion - Armory Rich Kolin - Oarmaking seminar - CWB Boatshop 3 p.m.-4:30 p.m. "Boats, Trains and Planes" Live Auction - Big Tent 4 p.m.

Lake Union Classic Yacht Race - North Quay 5 p.m.

Brion Toss - "Seattle's Fastest Bowline" Competition - west side of Armory 5:30 p.m.

Rich Kolin - Oarmaking seminar - CWB Boatshop Watercolors - R. A. "Ritchie" Benson - north side of Armory A l l Day Toy Boat Building - Naval Reserve Grounds "Historic Ships of Puget Sound" - Armory Stitch and Glue construction - Wayland Marine display - Armory Knotwork with Dennis Armstrong Water Taxi tours - board at CWB Boathouse or north end of show moorage area Ballots for People's Choice and Boatbuilders Choice Awards and entries for the boat drawing - CWB store, west side of Armory

O A R M A K I N G - With 2 5 y e a r s o f o a r m a k i n g e x p e r i e n c e , Rich Kolin knows how it's d o n e . W a t c h him work Friday a n d Saturday or attend his half-hour seminars: 2:30 p.m. Friday a n d 11:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. Saturday.

C W B Boatshop.

C A U L K I N G W I T H L E E E H R H E A R T - M a s t e r Shipwright L e e will s h o w y o u how to do it right, including h a n d s - o n instruction. 1 p.m. daily. North side of the A r m o r y Building.

C E D A R C U L T U R E - T h e Maritime Skills o f P u g e t S o u n d Indians. S t e v e and Dorothy Philipp describe h o w the native peoples of the region utilized their natural r e s o u r c e s . O n g o i n g exhibit of c a n o e m o d e l s , tools, artifacts - e v e n a model longhouse. S p e c i a l presentation at 12:30 p.m. daily; both in the Armory.

H O W T O B U Y A W O O D E N B O A T - Learn what t o look for, how t o finance it and what to do about insurance from a panel of experts: m a s t e r shipwright a n d surveyor L e e Ehrheart, K e y Bank's marine finance m a n a g e r T o b e y Wilkins and T r a n s - P a k lnsurance's Seattle manager Gerwin McFarland.

2:30 p.m. Saturday in the Armory.

A U C T I O N A C T I O N - It's e v e n bigger and better this y e a r - a b o n a n z a of unique, valuable, useful a n d exciting stuff. We call it "Boats, P l a n e s a n d Trains" with g o o d r e a s o n ! C o m e s e e for yourself. Silent bidding 10 a . m . to 6 p.m. Friday, 10 a . m . to 2 p . m . Saturday. T h e Live Auction with the b i g items b e g i n s at 3 p.m. Saturday ($5 admission) in the Big Tent.

C L A S S I C Y A C H T R A C E - T h e Northwest's f i n e s t c l a s s i c w o o d e n boats race on Lake Union (with o n e leg off the Naval R e s e r v e B a s e ) in this W o o d e n Y a c h t R a c i n g A s s o c i a t i o n event. B e g i n s at 4 p . m . Saturday.

S E A T T L E ' S F A S T E S T B O W L I N E C O M P E T I T I O N - I f you've been putting off learning h o w to tie the "King of Knots" now's the time b e c a u s e this e v e n t hosted by master rigger Brion T o s s , features a novice c l a s s . Special prizes for the winners. 5 p.m. Saturday, west side of the Armory.

C A R E A N D F E E D I N G O F A B R I T I S H S E A G U L L - N o , not birds! Its all about t h o s e nifty t e n a c i o u s British o u t b o a r d s . Mike O s w a l d , w h o s e c o m p a n y is the only e x c l u s i v e S e a g u l l parts a n d service d e a l e r on the W e s t C o a s t , will explain all the b a s i c s to keeping S e a g u l l s up a n d running. 11 a . m .

Saturday a n d S u n d a y in t h e Armory.

C L A N C Y R A C E S - R o u n d - r o b i n racing i n the 10' C l a n c y s d e s i g n e d b y C W B ' s R i c h Kolin with m a n y built by B o a r d m e m b e r B o b Pickett. If y o u ' d like to race c h e c k in at the F l o u n d e r B a y L u m b e r booth on the north side of the A r m o r y . 11:30 a . m . Saturday and S u n d a y .

F O L K M U S I C - A lively offering of s o n g s a n d merriment for land a n d s e a , featuring the talents of D o u g M a r o n e y , Sherry F l a n a g a n , Rick R u s k i n , G r e g Scott, J o e W e i h e , M a r c Hoffman, P e g L o u g h r a n , Bill Imhof, C h a r l e s David A l e x a n d e r , J o h n C a l v i n , Kelly Murphy, D o u g B e n e k e , Mike a n d V a l J a m e s , Paul Grieve, J o h n W e e k s , Mountain T h y m e , Mark Spittal, Leslie M c K a y , Mike A l d r i c h , L e e and Helle S p e c t o r , A n n i e Gallup a n d P e t e T o m a k , J u d y G r a n t h a m , Dan Roberts, T o m R a w s o n , J . W . W e i s s a n d S t e v e Lalor. N o o n to 6 p.m. Saturday a n d S u n d a y in the C W B Pavilion.

N O R W E G I A N R E S C U E S E R V I C E - L e e E h r h e a r t , Seattle M a s t e r Shipwright, s u r v e y o r and w o o d e n boat building teacher, will present slides a n d narrative from the 1991 R e s c u e S e r v i c e centennial celebration in Norway. 2:30 p.m. S u n d a y in the Armory.

R I G G I N G A S A P E R F O R M A N C E A R T - Explore the principles o f sailing rig d e s i g n , understand m e c h a n i c a l advantage and s e e t h e infamous doublebraid splice demystified with master rigger Brion T o s s . 2 p.m. daily on the west side of the Armory.

S T I T C H A N D G L U E - M a s t e r the stitch a n d glue method o f construction and learn how to build your own 16'skiff. R o n Mueller of Bellingham's W a y l a n d Marine m a k e s it look e a s y . S e m i n a r s at 1:30 p.m. daily. A r m o r y .

All Day, Everyday

SUNDAY, JULY 5 10 A . M . TO 6 P.M. 8 a.m.

9 a.m.11 a.m.

11:30 a.m.

12:30 p.m.

1 p.m.

1:30 p.m.

2 p.m.

2:30 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

5:30 p.m.

6 p.m.

A l l Day

Breakfast!! Fruit, rolls, eggs, meat, coffee - all for $5 - Big Tent Racing awards - Big Tent Mike Oswald - Care and Feeding of the British Seagull - Armory Clancy races Steve Philipp - Maritime Skills of the Puget Sound Indians - Armory Lee Ehrheart - Caulking demonstration - north side of Armory Ron Mueller - Stitch and Glue seminar - Armory Brion Toss - Rigging As A Performance Art - west side of Armory Lee Ehrheart - slide talk on the Norwegian Rescue Service - Armory Quick & Daring Boatbuilding contest Lake Union Challenge Cup Race - North Quay Awards presentation - west side of Armory Clancy races Northwest Yachting Peoples Choice Award Fisheries Supply Boatbuilders Choice Award Lake Union Challenge Cup (Quick & Daring contest) Boat drawing - west side of Armory Watercolors - R. A. "Ritchie" Benson - north side of Armory Toy Boat Building - Naval Reserve Grounds "Historic Ships of Puget Sound" - Armory Stitch and Glue construction - Wayland Marine display - Armory Knotwork with Dennis Armstrong Water Taxi tours - board at CWB Boathouse or north end of show moorage area Ballots for People's Choice and Boatbuilders Choice Awards and entries for the boat drawing - CWB store, west side of Armory

A R T - R. A. "Ritchie" B e n s o n translates his love of things nautical into watercolor paintings so real y o u c a n smell the salt air. H e ' s w o n first place in the Frye M u s e u m ' s Puget S o u n d Country Competition twice. North side of the Armory Building.

H I S T O R I C M A R I T I M E P H O T O S - T h e Puget S o u n d Maritime Historical S o c i e t y presents a s p e c i a l exhibit on the "Historic S h i p s of P*uget S o u n d " photographed in their h e y d a y s . Armory Building.

PEOPLE'S CHOICE AND BOATBUILDER'S CHOICE AWARDS - V i s i t o r s c a n vote for their favorite boat in the show; boatbuilders get to pick their favorite too. Pick up y o u r ballot at the C W B Store on the west side of the A r m o r y Building.

165

FOOT

1897

SCHOONER

WAWONA

-

Welcome

aboard.

T O Y B O A T B U I L D I N G - Build a toy boat; w e provide w o o d , tools, masts, sails, everything y o u n e e d . Usually our busiest and most popular event. Naval Reserve Grounds, W A T E R T A X I S - T a k e a ride in a 1906 s t e a m launch, a 32' N o o t k a c a n o e , a P o u l s b o boat a n d more. A plethora of boats to try. B o a r d at the north e n d o f s h o w m o o r a g e o r a t the C W B B o a t h o u s e .

W O O D E N B O A T S - T h e w h o l e point o f the W o o d e n B o a t F e s t i v a l , lining the d o c k s a l o n g the north e d g e of the N a v a l R e s e r v e g r o u n d s . S e e it all from k a y a k s a n d c a n o e s to the brigantine replica Lady Washington, the Tall S h i p Californian, the 101' Adventuress and the 127' Zodiac. Y o u a r e w e l c o m e to climb a b o a r d (with owner's permission) a n d get a taste of life on the water.

W I N A B O A T - S t o p b y the C W B Store o n the west s i d e o f the A r m o r y a n d enter the drawing to win a lovely c l a s s i c 12'6" Y a n k e e T e n d e r .

4 SHAVINGS July 1993

C o l l e c t i n g things that just sit is not g o o d e n o u g h f o r us. Collections are for the enlightenment of o u r c o m m u n i t y . If Seattle w a s a city of the i n t e l l i g e n t s i a , l e t t i n g o u r stuff sit w o u l d b e fine. T h e scholars w o u l d come and d e l i g h t i n c o m p a r i n g , anal y z i n g , c o n f e r r i n g a n d t h e o r i z i n g . But our w o n d e r f u l c o m m u n i t y of Seattle is definitely not a m i r r o r image of 5th - century B . C . A t h e n s . Therefore, we offer h a n d s - o n exhibits a n d programs.

Once folks d o things w i t h their hands, it often turns on their brains. That's no b i g secret. A h u n d r e d years ago, John D e w e y told us direct experience is the most effective l e a r n i n g technique.

So we are i n t r o d u c i n g the cast of a new program. We call it "Cast O f f ! " . It is d e s i g n e d to g i v e visitors direct experience w i t h vessels that are too c o m p l e x for t h e m to take out by themselves.

Dan is a 21' p i l o t g i g - the type of r o w i n g craft used to take pilots to

vessels a n d g u i d e t h e m t h r o u g h t r i c k y passages. It requires four sweep oars a n d a c o x s w a i n . R o w i n g on this boat i n v o l v e s salty c o m m a n d s l i k e " U p oars", " T r a i l o a r s " a n d " G i v e

w a y together." W h e n e v e r y o n e i s c o o r d i n a t e d , it seems a n d looks as if a l l participants have become a fluid chorus line.

O u r 32' N o o t k a canoe is a cedar

d u g o u t , s i m i l a r to the d o m i n a n t vessels of this r e g i o n for 5,000 years.

T h e y were used by the native people for transportation, h u n t i n g a n d w a r fare a n d as a taxi w h e n the w h i t e settlers came. The first n o n - n a t i v e settlers came to Seattle in 1851 a n d their first ferry boat was built in 1888.

Between those years, h o w d o y o u t h i n k the n e w folks managed to get to meetings, p o k e r games and garage sales?

A pretty n e w face in o u r collect i o n a n d a part of " C a s t Off!" is the 21'6" steam l a u n c h Puffin. She w a s b u i l t in 1906 by the Truscott Boat M a n u f a c t u r i n g C o m p a n y . She gives rides at the Center and sometimes acts as o u r ambassador of h a n d s - o n l e a r n i n g at other P u g e t Sound events.

Puffin is on charter f r o m Bob E v a n s of B o z e m a n , M o n t a n a , and is c a r e d for by a c r e w of steam enthusiasts, w i t h B i l l D u r h a m a s their g u r u . B i l l wrote the b o o k o n it. Really. Steam-

boats and Modern Steam Launches by

Maritime Memories O n c e u p o n a time in the early days of P u g e t S o u n d , there w a s a fantastic fleet of ships, some s m a l l b u t some quite large and a l l m o s t l y i n d e p e n d e n t of each other, that w o u l d p i c k y o u u p and d r o p y o u off a n y place y o u w a n t e d to go.

There were sidewheelers, sternwheelers, shallow-draft river steamers and slender propellerd r i v e n steamers. They ran on c o r d w o o d , operated a l l year a r o u n d , w e r e u n r e g u l a t e d a n d their n a v i g a t i o n instruments a n d accurate charts w e r e f e w or none.

T h e y transported everyone f r o m loggers, farmers, beachcombers, l a n d promoters a n d lovers to preachers.

T h e y carried everything: m a c h i n e r y , crops, clams, f i s h , supplies a n d passengers w h o were settling in to create the t o w n s a n d cities that n o w exist on this great i n l a n d sea.

T h e y started a mass transit system that lasted more than 70 years u n t i l the c o m i n g of the automobile in the 1920s. T h e i r steam whistles echo e d in the air in every part of P u g e t S o u n d , up its rivers a n d into lakes.

N o w , except for one r e m a i n i n g w o r k i n g s h i p , the Virginia V, the M o s q u i t o Fleet of P u g e t S o u n d has passed on i n t o m a r i t i m e memories.

A l t h o u g h they're n o longer p l y i n g the waters of Puget S o u n d , you can s t i l l learn more about the M o s q u i t o Fleet a n d other i m p o r t a n t ships b y v i s i t i n g the exhibit " H i s t o r i c Ships o f P u g e t S o u n d " i n the A r m o r y d u r i n g the L a k e U n i o n W o o d e n Boat Festival.

T h e exhibit is the w o r k of the P u g e t S o u n d M a r i t i m e H i s t o r i c a l Society ( P S M H S ) . Selecting photographs of the most important, best k n o w n a n d most b e l o v e d historic ships of Puget S o u n d was no easy task since the P S M H S collection numbers a r o u n d 65,000 p h o t o g r a p h s (copies m a y be o r d e r e d d u r i n g the s h o w ) .

The Puget Sound Maritime H i s torical Society w a s o r g a n i z e d in 1948 a n d has been h o u s e d w i t h i n Seattle's M u s e u m of History and Industry since 1953. We are in the early stages of p l a n n i n g for a major m a r i t i m e m u s e u m for this area - to be located w i t h i n the South L a k e U n i o n M a r i time Heritage Center - a n d we w e l come anyone w h o wants to assist on this important project. Please see us a t the P S M H S exhibit inside the A r m o r y d u r i n g the Festival or c a l l us at (206) 624-3028. - Colleen Wagner Can You N a m e T h e s e S h i p s ?

If y o u think you already k n o w e v e r y t h i n g there is to k n o w about

Puget Sound's historic ships, test y o u r m a r i t i m e k n o w l e d g e w i t h this little q u i z . The answers can be f o u n d in the Puget Sound M a r i t i m e Historical Society's exhibit d u r i n g the W o o d e n Boat Festival. O r , if y o u ' r e one of those u n f o r t u n a t e f e w w h o c a n ' t m a k e i t t o the F e s t i v a l , s e n d a s t a m p e d , self-addressed envelope to C W B (1010 V a l l e y St., Seattle, W A 98109) a n d w e ' l l s e n d y o u the a n swers after the Festival.

1. The first ferry boat on P u g e t Sound?

2. The last a n d largest b u i l t threemasted schooner r e m a i n i n g i n the Northwest?

3. The s h i p that b r o u g h t a t o n of

g o l d to Seattle d u r i n g the G o l d Rush?

4. The last M o s q u i t o Fleet steams h i p still w o r k i n g o n P u g e t S o u n d ?

5. O n e of the oldest tugboats s t i l l r u n n i n g - a n d star of the m o v i e " T u g boat A n n i e " ?

6. T h e steamship p a d d l e w h e e l snagboat that retired in 1981 after 40 years of k e e p i n g Puget S o u n d clean?

7. The s h i p that carried A d m i r a l P e a r y on expeditions to the Arctic?

8. The battleship b u i l t in Seattle in 1904, o n l y 49 years after the l a n d i n g of the first pioneers?

9. The fireboat, n o w retired after 76 years of battling Seattle fires?

10. The first p a d d l e s i d e w h e e l steamship to enter Puget Sound (in 1837)?

July 1992 SHAVINGS 5

The Center for Wooden Boats Calendar J U L Y 3, 4 & 5: 16th A N N U A L L A K E UNION W O O D E N B O A T FESTIVAL, CWB and adjoining sites.

See the Program of Events on page 3 for all the details.

A U G U S T 8 & 9: SAILING CLINIC FOR THE DISABLED, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. both days, CWB. The Footloose Sailing Association, in conjunction with National Handicapped Sports, National Ocean Access Project, C W B and SKIFORALL, is sponsoring a two-day clinic to teach the basics of sailing for those with physical disabilities. Participants must be at least 16years old. Fee: $50.

OCTOBER 4: THE COLUMBUS REGATTA, noon to 8 p.m., CWB. Explore the excitement of a regatta it took us 500 years to schedule. Navigate your way through sailing races, including special classes for Sail NOW! graduates and instructors, and discover the gastronomic delights of the potluck supper.

Marine Skills Workshops

B i l l D u r h a m is a p o p u l a r text.

In terms of presence, the superstar of " C a s t O f f ! " is the 44' n a v a l A c a d e m y y a w l Resolute. She w a s designed b y L u d e r s o f S t a m f o r d , C o n necticut, in 1939 as a t r a i n i n g vessel for the m i d s h i p m e n of the U . S . N a v a l A c a d e m y . Between 1939 a n d 1942, L u d e r s b u i l t 12 of these vessels. The N a v a l A c a d e m y u s e d t h e m for close to 30 years. O u r s is chartered f r o m The Evergreen State C o l l e g e i n O l y m -

p i a , W a s h i n g t o n . Evergreen rebuilt Resolute over a 10-year p e r i o d . W e use her to p r o v i d e short sails on L a k e U n i o n for o u r visitors and for a d v a n c e d sail t r a i n i n g seminars. H e r shear a n d overhangs are subtle a n d delicate. She steers w i t h a c h i l d ' s t o u c h , dances t h r o u g h w a v e s a n d loves a thrash to w i n d w a r d .

At certain times of the year, the sports pages are f i l l e d w i t h news of "The F i n a l F o u r " - the best of the best teams i n the N C A A n a t i o n a l basketb a l l tournament. H e r e a t C W B w e have o u r o w n " F o u r " but they are

day afternoons.) W h a t w a s n e w was a n o r g a n i z e d p r o g r a m a i m e d specific a l l y at m e e t i n g the needs of the working person.

The classes are taught on weekends y e a r - r o u n d ( b e g i n n i n g at 11 a.m.). In the s u m m e r m o n t h s (June 1 through Labor D a y ) , Sail N O W ! classes also are offered at 5:30 p . m . on weekdays.

The p r o g r a m provides very strong basics in s m a l l (up to 26') boat h a n d l i n g . T h a n k s to the q u i r k s of L a k e U n i o n ' s w i n d patterns, the students are forced to d e v e l o p a strong sense o f w i n d d i r e c t i o n . E v e n more d e m a n d i n g i s the s a i l a w a y f r o m a n d back t o C W B ' s d o c k s . A l l those obstructions a r o u n d C W B p l a y havoc w i t h the w i n d i n the waterway.

Sail N O W ! also f a m i l i a r i z e s students w i t h different k i n d s of boats and rigs: sloops, catboats, Marconi sails, gaff rigs, keel boats, centerboarders, l o n g keels, outboard rudders, k e e l - h u n g r u d d e r s . The number of sessions to graduate varies f r o m student to student, but it u s u a l l y is between f i v e a n d 10. W h e n graduated, students are certified to sail a n y o f C W B ' s s m a l l sailboats.

Students schedule their classes at their o w n pace w i t h o u t w o r r y o f a d d i tional cost. W h e t h e r it takes t h e m five or 50 sessions to graduate, the price remains the same: $125 ( w h i c h includes a one-year C W B membership).

" T h e First Four."

They were (and are) the first four s t u d e n t s w h o p i o n e e r e d the S a i l N O W ! p r o g r a m a t C W B - three ladies a n d one gentleman. T h e y were the first in a p r o g r a m that n o w , almost three years later, has trained about 265 sailors. N o t b a d for a p r o g r a m w h i c h w a s basically a n experiment w h e n it began.

That was back in N o v e m b e r , 1990, w h e n volunteers a t C W B came u p w i t h a w a y to keep o u r fleet of s a i l boats active d u r i n g the s l o w f a l l a n d winter months. It w a s distressing to see o u r fleet of exhibits b o u n c i n g at the d o c k w h e n the w i n d s w e r e so glorious out o n L a k e U n i o n . W i n t e r temperatures seemed to keep the p u b l i c a w a y f r o m C W B just a t the season w h e n the w i n d s offer perhaps the most exciting s a i l i n g of the year.

It was a s i m p l e concept: the m o r e people we taught to s a i l , the more often the boats w o u l d be out s a i l i n g .

A n enthusiastic a n d d e d i c a t e d g r o u p of volunteer instructors got together, developed a c u r r i c u l u m and Sail N O W ! was b o r n . T h e i d e a o f a s a i l boat h a n d l i n g p r o g r a m w a s not n e w .

Volunteer instructors had been teachi n g one-on-one lessons a t C W B for quite a w h i l e . (They s t i l l do on w e e k -

These vessels are n o w being used to p r o v i d e l i v i n g history experiences.

A n y successful p r o g r a m needs a

E a c h v i s i t o r w h o takes a r i d e becomes their o w n docent, l e a v i n g w i t h a head f u l l of memories a n d m a y b e a n e w set of blisters on their hands or seats. W h i l e Socrates a n d A r i s t o t l e m a y visit us from Athens and discourse on boats' designs as a p r o d u c t o f w o o d characteristics, tools a n d cultural interplay, o u r visitors w i l l have intimate k n o w l e d g e of the boats that w o r d s can never describe. Cast O f f ! - Dick W a g n e r

strong heart, a strong desire to share k n o w l e d g e a n d a v e r y strong d e d i cation to the cause. Those qualities w e l l describe the core of volunteer instructors - 18 at this w r i t i n g - w h o s e p r i d e is to talk about the large n u m ber of students taught.

W h o takes S a i l N O W ! ? M e n , w o m e n a n d k i d s . T h e ages o f o u r students r u n f r o m nine years o l d to none-of-your-business. A l t h o u g h the First F o u r i n c l u d e d three " g u l l s " a n d one " b u o y , " the total count n o w is v e r y e v e n l y d i v i d e d between g u l l s and buoys.

Sail N O W ! has s p a w n e d a successor course too. A d v a n c e d sailing s e m i nars m a d e their debut at C W B this s p r i n g . The N a v a l A c a d e m y y a w l Resolute is h o m e base f o r the a d v a n c e d seminars, j o i n e d b y o u r other larger boats as the d e m a n d warrants.

A d v a n c e d s a i l i n g seminars r a n g i n g from f o u r hours to f u l l days w i l l be taught on L a k e W a s h i n g t o n and Puget Sound. W h o knows what w e ' l l think of next?! Stay t u n e d .

O o p s ! T h i s story w o u l d n ' t be c o m plete w i t h o u t a w o r d of thanks to the First F o u r . So " T h a n k s ! " to V i c k i e Tinnes, Betsy Case, John Beale a n d Joy F a r q u h a r . - Jack Saylor

L E A R N TO SAIL NOW!: 11 a.m.

Saturday and Sunday year-round and 5:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday June 1 through Labor Day; CWB and Lake Union. Students will learn to sail a variety of small classic craft in one session of classroom work and four or more sessions of handson instruction in one of our small boats.

Students will graduate when able to sail a variety of keel, centerboard, sloop and catboats by instinct. You may begin any Saturday; please call for reservations. Fee: $125 (includes a oneyear CWB membership).

J U L Y 18-19. 25-26. A U G U S T 12, 8-9: SAINT LAWRENCE B A T E A U LOFTING & BUILDING, 8.30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. each day, CWB Boatshop. Here's your chance to take an eight-day workshop on weekends!

Instructor Rich Kolin will lead the class through lofting and building an elegant flat bottom double-ended lapstrake rowing boat. This project begins with a table of offsets and ends with launching an easy-pulling seaworthy classic boat of the type used on the St. Lawrence River since the 18th century. Basic woodworking skills required; maximum eight students. Fee: CWB members, $550; non-members, $600.

A U G U S T 22-29: L A P S T R A K E DINGHY WORKSHOP, 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. each day, CWB Boatshop. Under the guidance of Eric Hvalsoe the class will build and launch a handsome lapstrake planked, steam-bent framed 15' dinghy. Students will gain the knowledge and confidence to go forth and build their own. Basic woodworking skills required; maximum seven students. Fee: C W B members, $550; nonmembers, $600.

S E P T E M B E R 21 & 22: SAIL REPAIR WORKSHOP, 11 a.m. to 8.30 p.m. Monday; 9a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday, CWB Boathouse. Carol Hasse and the gang from Port Townsend Sail Company will teach you everything you need to know to make your sails healthy after a blowout. Students will learn all phases of sail repair, including machine skills, hand skills, design, layout, assembly and when to do what.

Everyone will go home with a seminar handbook, hand work and machine work sail samples and a ditty bag kit.

Maximum of 20 students. Fee: CWB members, $250; non-members, $300.

A $100 non-refundable deposit is required to register for all boat building workshops; balance payable Around the CWB docks "Jack Saylor" one week prior to the workshop. Prepayment in full reserves your place is known as Vern Velez, CWB Board in all other workshops. For informamember, sailing fanatic, latin dance intion/registration, call 382-2628. structor and sparkplug of the Sail NOW!

program.

6 SHAVINGS July 1992

Erica Pickett w i l l b e b u i l d i n g d u r i n g the Festival. R i c h w i l l be b u i l d i n g 8'

We have t w o major collections at C W B . The m o s t v i s i b l e , o f course, i s o u r collection of boats a n d the stuff that goes w i t h t h e m . But w e collect people too - s k i l l e d talented people w h o derive immense satisfaction f r o m teaching others the lore, s k i l l s a n d crafts that m a k e u p o u r m a r i t i m e heritage. A n d every year i n J u l y m a n y of these p e o p l e come to the L a k e U n i o n W o o d e n Boat Festival t o share their k n o w l e d g e w i t h y o u . H e r e are just a f e w w h o w i l l be on h a n d this year (see the P r o g r a m of Events on page 3 for times a n d locations): Lee H. E h r h e a r t of Seattle is a master s h i p w r i g h t a n d a marine surv e y o r , s p e c i a l i z i n g i n w o o d e n boat

at the C W B store d u r i n g the s h o w ) .

T h i s year B r i o n w i l l b e presenting " R i g g i n g A s A Performance A r t " each d a y o f the s h o w a n d w i l l host the "Seattle's Fastest B o w l i n e " c o m p e t i t i o n on J u l y 4 (there's even a novice class).

Bob a n d Erica Pickett are the

s p o o n or straight oars in the Boatshop J u l y 3 a n d 4, w i t h special seminar sessions on both d a y s .

Ron Mueller has been b u i l d i n g w o o d boats since he p u r c h a s e d Bellingham's W a y l a n d Marine, licensee for the W a y f a r e r Sailboat K i t , in 1979. N o w a d a y s he concentrates his efforts on manufacturing the Sprite Skiff K i t d e v e l o p e d b y Jack C h i p p e n dale o f the U n i t e d K i n g d o m a n d h e ' l l

joys of g o o d health w i t h his l o v e for s m a l l boats.

It w o u l d n ' t be a W o o d e n Boat Festival w i t h o u t Steve a n d D o r o t h y Philipp (photo at bottom of page) here to share their extensive k n o w l edge of the maritime skills of Puget S o u n d native peoples. Steve a n d D o r o t h y l i v e i n h a r m o n y w i t h nature alongside their neighbors, the T u l a l i p Tribe. Steve g r e w u p w i t h the T u l a l i p p e o p l e a n d learned their o l d w a y s .

T h e i r life together has a l w a y s been i n t e r t w i n e d w i t h m a r i t i m e heritage; i n t h e p h o t o Steve i s h o l d i n g a whaleboat m o d e l he gave D o r o t h y as a w e d d i n g gift some 60 years ago.

D u r i n g the Festival Steve a n d D o r o t h y w i l l b r i n g insights i n t o the " C e d a r C u l t u r e " - h o w the first people of P u g e t S o u n d u t i l i z e d their n a t u r a l resources.

Insurance is an area fraught w i t h q u e s t i o n s f o r m a n y w o o d e n boat owners and G e r w i n M c F a r l a n d is the g u y w i t h the answers. Since 1989,

proprietors of F l o u n d e r B a y L u m b e r Company, the internationally-known Anacortes, Washington, supplier of marine lumber. Buyers not only get the best wood for their project, they also get Erica, a native of Seattle's Ballard shipbuilding district, is an

i n s p e c t i o n a n d repair. Lee has sailed his e x - N o r w e g i a n s a i l i n g fishing vessel Havorn w o r l d - w i d e . H i s fascinating display of shipwright's and s u r v e y o r ' s tools is a b i g d r a w a n n u a l l y at Seattle's K i n g d o m e Boat S h o w - a l t h o u g h the s h o w s topper is the gruesomely intriguing display of samples of dry-rotted w o o d f r o m local boats. D u r i n g the W o o d e n Boat Festival, L e e w i l l c o n d u c t c a u l k i n g demonstrations for both adults a n d c h i l d r e n ( w i t h k i d s s e r v i n g as his assistants), serve o n a p a n e l o n " H o w To B u y A W o o d e n Boat" a n d present a s l i d e talk on his v i s i t to N o r w a y last year for the N o r w e g i a n Rescue Service C e n t e n n i a l .

F e w people m e n t i o n the n a m e of Brion Toss w i t h o u t a d d i n g a n adjective l i k e irrepressible, exuberant or u n c o n v e n t i o n a l . B r i o n , the g u r u of Port Townsend's Central Harbor R i g g i n g , delights i n d e m y s t i f y i n g the secrets of r i g g i n g , k n o t - t y i n g a n d a lot of other salty stuff for his a u d i ences. H i s three b o o k s (Chapman's

expert o n m a r i n e paints a n d finishes a n d B o b has r o w e d a n d sailed since his y o u t h on T a m p a Bay. Since they o p e n e d F l o u n d e r B a y in 1971, Bob a n d Erica have h e l p e d a g o o d m a n y p e o p l e b u i l d a w i d e range of seaworthy craft. The 10' daysailer C l a n c y t h e y ' l l b e b u i l d i n g d u r i n g the Festiv a l is just another example of their c o m m i t m e n t to the traditions of fine w o o d boat b u i l d i n g .

If y o u ' v e ever rented a r o w b o a t at C W B , chances are y o u ' v e used one of the m a n y sets of oars b u i l t by Rich Kolin o f M a r y s v i l l e , W a s h i n g t o n .

R i c h has been a boat b u i l d e r , s m a l l craft designer a n d oarmaker for 25 Guide to Knots, The Rigger's Apprentice years. He b u i l d his first set of oars in a n d the b r a n d n e w The Rigger's Locker) 1973 for the San Francisco R o w i n g a n d his Sailor's Knots and Splices v i d e o C l u b s . H e ' s also the designer of the are h i g h l y p o p u l a r (you can b u y t h e m C l a n c y , the 10' daysailer that B o b a n d

G e r w i n has been the Seattle b r a n c h manager for T r a n s - P a k A g e n c y , a d i v i s i o n o f Leisurecraft Insurance A g e n c y , the largest boat insurance agency on the West Coast. H e ' s a veteran of 12 years in boat insurance wo k a n d h e ' l l b daily r i n g that expertise to be demonstrating the stitch and glue method ofr construction during the Festival.

T the S a t u r d a y p a n e l d i s c u s s i o n o n building at Bellingham C o m m u n i t y " H o w To Buy A Wooden Boat."

Colleges. H i s latest project is the n e w l y o p e n e d R o w i n g Fitness C e n t e r i n G e r w i n a n d his wife, H i l d a , l i v e i n B e l l i n g h a m , where he combines the P u y a l l u p .

July 1992 SHAVINGS 7

Dear Sirs: Several weeks ago I sent to y o u for y o u r collection a gratis c o p y of

my n e w b o o k Gentlemen Never Sail to Weather: The Story of an Accidental

Odyssey. W h i l e the focus of this b o o k was directed p r i m a r i l y t o w a r d the v a r i o u s a n d exciting circumstances of o u r c i r c u m n a v i g a t i o n , the u n d e r l y i n g theme of the book, w h i c h I h o p e d w o u l d p i q u e y o u r interest, w a s the unfailing fidelity of good wooden boat construction.

E v e n for a w o o d e n boat of her vintage, Prospector [Length o n deck: 42'7"; L e n g t h o n w a t e r l i n e : 38'6"; Beam: 12'6"; Draft: 6'; Sail area: 1,200 sq. ft.; D i s p l a c e m e n t : 19 tons; D e signer: The C o n c o r d i a C o m p a n y ] is most u n u s u a l . I d o n ' t t h i n k y o u c a n read m y book w i t h o u t d i s c o v e r i n g the d e p t h of feeling a n d respect that I have for this o l d boat. Y o u p r o b a b l y w i l l f i n d references to her several places i n y o u r l i b r a r y i f y o u care t o look.

It n o w seems that Prospector w i l l outlive me, at least in terms of my ability to do useful w o r k . I don't

m e a n to suggest a p e n d i n g tragedy, just creeping osteoarthritis. As far as I k n o w , n o b o d y has ever d i e d of it, b u t i t does i n h i b i t y o u r a b i l i t y t o scamper up the ratlines as n e e d e d .

I w o n ' t pretend that she's not 50 years o l d a n d i s e x h i b i t i n g her o w n unmistakable signs of age. B u t I p l a n to m o v e her to the Pacific N o r t h w e s t .

P r o p e r l y m a i n t a i n e d , she w i l l last w e l l into the next century - p o s s i b l y even another 50 years - in the c o l d waters of Puget S o u n d .

The i d e a l situation for a l l c o n cerned w o u l d b e t o f i n d someone i n Puget S o u n d w i t h a little m o n e y a n d a fair a m o u n t of time to s p o n s o r a n d participate in one last great ocean passage, at least w i t h me as s k i p p e r .

I w o u l d expect this to be a f u l l y cooperative effort, the n e w o w n e r to

share in the major refitting decisions (white or tanbark sails? R e b u i l d her P e r k i n s 4-108 or r e p o w e r w i t h a P e r k i n s 4-236?) a n d e v e n p o s s i b l y c r e w w i t h m e i n her d e l i v e r y t h r o u g h the P a n a m a C a n a l a n d the l o n g , l o n g passage n o r t h .

I feel absolutely certain there m u s t be a person s o m e w h e r e in the Pacific N o r t h w e s t w h o w i l l b e a s attracted t o a n o l d square-rigged y a w l i n 1992 as I w a s in 1978. She has served me k i n d l y a n d w e l l a n d I hope to r e t u r n the favor by p a s s i n g her to a n e w owner in a new and congenial environment.

The question is: H o w d o I f i n d s u c h a person?

H o p i n g t o hear f r o m y o u a t y o u r early convenience, I a m , Sincerely y o u r s , Capt. Denton R. M o o r e P. O . B o x 1289 M o o r e H a v e n , F L 33471

[ E d . N o t e : O n the first l e g o f Prospector's ' r o u n d - t h e - w o r l d v o y a g e f r o m M a r t i n i q u e t h r o u g h the P a n a m a C a n a l , C W B m e m b e r John B l a c k w a s a c r e w m e m b e r . In his b o o k , C a p t .

M o o r e w a s d i s a p p o i n t e d i n a l l his v a r i o u s c r e w except for Black, w h o s e enthusiasm, i n g e n u i t y a n d patented motto " N o p r o b l e m ! " are k n o w n b y m a n y Northwesterners.]

Gentlemen Never Sail to Weather by

Denton Moore.

Since the Odyssey, l o n g passages in s m a l l boats have been a favorite literary leitmotif - a s m a l l c o m m u n i t y isolated in a space capsule in a vast and unpredictable e n v i r o n m e n t .

W h a t a theatrical setting for a story!

Some have been classics. M y o w n choices i n c l u d e the w o r d s of Joseph C o n r a d , Riddle of the Sands b y E r s k i n e

C h i l d e s a n d Endurance by Shackelton.

H o w e v e r , a l l of t h e m are g o o d if y o u are a sailor. P l o t a n d style notw i t h s t a n d i n g , there's a l w a y s g o o d e m p i r i c a l info o n boat performance, gear performance a n d w h i c h ports are nice a n d w h i c h are nasty.

C a p t . M o o r e ' s book is a l o n g narr a t i v e w i t h some forgettable p o r tions of the-sails-are-up, the-sails-ared o w n genre, b u t there are m a n y n u g gets of p i t h y , poetic observation a n d insights.

H e h a d a m i d - l i f e adventure i n the classic C o n c o r d i a C o m p a n y - d e s i g n e d m i d - l i f e w o o d e n ketch Prospector. There is a n interesting interl u d e i n the C a r i b b e a n i n w h i c h J o h n Black, a C W B m e m b e r w h o m m a n y k n o w a s " M r . N o P r o b l e m , " particip a t e d a s able s e a m a n a n d g u i d e t h r o u g h v a r i o u s bureaucratic reefs.

I read the b o o k w i t h enjoyment.

I suggest y o u do too. - D i c k W a g n e r

8 SHAVINGS July 1992

Of Kayaks and Wood

S

by Ross Anderson

ome years ago, a s u d d e n infatuation w i t h kayaks and kayaking precipitated a f u n d a m e n t a l c o n flict i n m y s o u l .

T h o u g h not u s u a l l y prone to sports fads, I fell head over heels sort of an emotional Eskimo r o l l - for sea k a y a k i n g . I was obsessed w i t h these sleek graceful craft w h i c h enable the p a d d l e r to venture w h e r e f e w sailors can go: into the saltwater intertidal zone, that forever a l l u r i n g a n d dramatic w o r l d o f surf a n d r o c k and kelp.

A sea k a y a k , I learned, is lighter and faster than a canoe, yet r o o m y e n o u g h to carry fresh f o o d a n d even a decent cabernet to enjoy on a w i l derness beach. It has a silent, easy movement a l l its o w n , s l i c i n g t h r o u g h waves a n d w i n d l i k e an O r c a . It uses no fossil fuels. It is easy to transport a n d m a i n t a i n . A n d kayaks are cheap; I d i d not have to choose between o w n i n g a boat or s e n d i n g my k i d s to college.

B u t kayaks are b u r d e n e d w i t h one tragic f l a w : T h e y are almost i n v a r i a b l y m a d e of plastic.

This is i n a p p r o p r i a t e c u l t u r a l a n d i n d u s t r i a l p o l i c y . The N o r t h A m e r i can natives (who i n v e n t e d kayaks) certainly u n d e r s t o o d this. T h e y m a d e t h e i r k a y a k s f r o m w o o d . O n the N o r t h w e s t Coast, they started w i t h a log a n d c h i p p e d a w a y the excess.

Further north, above the treeline, the E s k i m o s d i d the o p p o s i t e . T h e y started w i t h s c r a p d r i f t w o o d a n d assembled a frame on w h i c h to attach the s k i n . Either w a y , they e n d e d up w i t h a sleek, fast, maneuverable boat w h i c h became the m o d e l for those w h i c h p l y N o r t h w e s t waters today.

There are m a n y reasons for u s i n g w o o d . It's easy t o w o r k w i t h , w o n d e r f u l l y f o r g i v i n g , flexible a n d easy to shape w i t h o u t h a v i n g to breathe a n y t h i n g potentially cancer-causing.

W o o d has an extraordinary strengthto-weight ratio, w h i c h is a h i g h p r i o r ity w h e n d e a l i n g w i t h kayaks. A n d

w o o d is inherently buoyant, w h i c h is an extremely comfortable characteristic, p a r t i c u l a r l y i n N o r t h w e s t w a ters.

E v e n m o r e i m p o r t a n t , s m a l l boats exist largely for their aesthetic v a l u e .

A fiberglass speedboat or sailboard w i l l get us f r o m A to B faster, but they a l l l o o k l i k e bathtub toys - rem a r k a b l y d e v o i d o f artistic merit.

Folks a r o u n d S o u t h L a k e U n i o n , h o w ever, u n d e r s t a n d v e r y w e l l that s m a l l craft s h o u l d b e c o n s t r u c t e d f r o m w o o d because they are so i n c r e d i b l y pleasant to l o o k at. C a l l it the strengthto-look ratio.

H o w e v e r , f o r reasons o f their o w n , c o m m e r c i a l k a y a k makers stubb o r n l y insist on m a k i n g their boats f r o m v a r i o u s plastics a n d epoxies.

W h i c h explains the conflict i n m y s o u l . I yearned to p a d d l e a kayak to the far ends of the earth - b u t o n l y if I c o u l d f i n d one m a d e f r o m w o o d .

This t r o u b l e d me for some time u n t i l one d a y I w a n d e r e d into the Ecomarine boat shop o n G r a n v i l l e Island i n V a n c o u v e r , B . C . just i n s i d e the d o o r sat a sleek, l i g h t w e i g h t 16' kayak, perhaps the most beautiful I h a d ever seen.

It was m a d e of w o o d .

Instant l o v e . I h a d to have one.

The boat, I was t o l d , is a " S c a n d i a n single," a stitch-and-tape k i t s o l d by Granta L t d . o f C a m b r i d g e , E n g l a n d .

Later I learned that Granta makes dozens of s u c h boats a n d kits - canoes, skiffs, p r a m s a n d s m a l l sailing craft.

The k a y a k of my dreams was not for sale b u t they d i d have a few kits in stock. So, for about $250, I drove home w i t h a n eight-foot-long cardb o a r d box s q u i s h e d into m y M a z d a .

A C u s t o m s inspector wanted to k n o w what it w a s . A 16' k a y a k , I reported.

H e r o l l e d h i s eyeballs and w a v e d m e through.

A f e w w e e k s later, I opened the box a n d s p r e a d the contents over my front p o r c h : 12 o d d - s h a p e d sheets of precut, t h i n (about 3 m m ) mahogany p l y w o o d , f o u r crescent-shaped lengths of p l y w o o d , a few o d d rectangular a n d t r i a n g u l a r blocks of 3/4" p l y w o o d . N o t m u c h lumber, it s e e m e d , f o r $250. There was one more i t e m : about 16 pages of directions w h i c h p r o m i s e d that a novice

July 1992 SHAVINGS 9

w o u l d p u t the boat together in about 40 h o u r s .

J w e n t out a n d b o u g h t the a d d i tional materials a n d a couple of tools a n d w e n t to w o r k . F o r t y hours later, I was still staring at the i n s t r u c t i o n booklet.

In the e n d , h o w e v e r , the c o n struction was not as c o m p l i c a t e d as it looks. F o l l o w i n g the instructions, I m a t c h e d u p the p r e c u t p l y w o o d , d r i l l e d m a t c h i n g holes o n a d j o i n i n g pieces a n d used n y l o n fishline a n d a well-illustrated stitch to - quite litera l l y - s e w the boat together. A couple of days later, I h a d a b o t t o m a n d a top w h i c h lay l i m p on my porch, remindi n g me of a v e r y sick a n d t i r e d k a y a k .

The rectangular a n d t r i a n g u l a r blocks are p r o v i d e d to achieve the correct angles at the b o w , stern a n d keel. I used s i l i c o n bronze nails a n d screws i n those f e w places w h e r e they were r e q u i r e d . W i t h these, p l u s a f e w c l a m p s , bungee cords a n d ace bandages, the boat took a m o r e r i g i d form.

The next a n d perhaps most c r i t i cal step was to fiberglass the seams.

(Life is i n d e e d f u l l of c o m p r o m i s e s .

A n d r e m e m b e r , i t w a s aesthetics w h i c h d r o v e this mission.) Stitcha n d - t a p e c o n s t r u c t i o n means y o u stitch the pieces together a n d use fiberglass tape a n d resin to seal a n d make permanent the seams. G e t t i n g everything perfectly a l i g n e d fore to aft was tricky; the front p o r c h became a s p i d e r ' s w e b of lines a n d weights. But it w o r k e d . A f e w days later I stepped back a n d t h o u g h t to myself: " B e h o l d , a w o o d e n k a y a k ! " It is a s m a l l boat, a tad u n d e r 16 feet l o n g w i t h a 24-inch b e a m at the cockpit. T h e h u l l i s streamlined, w i t h a s h a r p l y - p o i n t e d b o w a n d stern, a p r o n o u n c e d V - b o t t o m a n d invertedV deck. It is d e f i n i t e l y a " w e t " boat, w i t h o n l y a n i n c h o r s o o f freeboard so that even a s m a l l w a k e taken f r o m the b e a m w i l l s l o p w a t e r i n the p a d d l e r ' s l a p . A s p r a y s k i r t is recommended.

There was more to be done, of course. T h e k i t i n c l u d e d f o u r pref o r m e d pieces o f p l y w o o d w h i c h became the c o c k p i t c o a m i n g . I a d d e d a layer of fiberglass a r o u n d the c o a m i n g for strength. I also glassed the bott o m to protect it f r o m g r a v e l l y N o r t h west beaches. I p a i n t e d some crude N o r t h w e s t n a t i v e d e s i g n s o n the deck, a d d e d f o u r coats of m a r i n e varnish inside and out, a few small bronze cleats a n d eyelets . . . everyt h i n g was ready . . .

Except for a seat.

Do not underestimate the i m p o r tance of a k a y a k seat. F o r e o n s , kayakers have debated a m o n g t h e m selves the relative characteristics of one k a y a k d e s i g n or another. W h i c h is faster? T i p p i e r ? Roomier? W h i c h are subject to w i n d w a r d helms? Forget a l l that. B u y the boat w i t h the comfortable seat.

I h a d done this. I h a d b o u g h t a used Escape, a b i g e x p e d i t i o n boat made b y M a t t and C a m Broze i n K i r k l a n d . T h e seat w a s i d e a l a n d they s o l d me an extra for $5. It fit the Granta perfectly. I was in business.

I l a u n c h e d my k a y a k w i t h a bottle o f G a l l o b u r g u n d y d o w n a t Stan Sayres P a r k . It was i n c r e d i b l y l i g h t about 40 p o u n d s . In spite of h o r r i b l y amateurish w o r k m a n s h i p , it was nice on the eyes - d o w n r i g h t handsome, in fact.

A n d i t floated! M o r e than that, i t

p a d d l e d straight a n d fast a n d t u r n e d w i t h ease. I instantly k n e w h o w the W r i g h t Brothers felt at K i t t y h a w k .

That was about f i v e years ago.

Since then, I have p a d d l e d my G r a n t a up and d o w n Puget Sound, around W i l l a p a B a y , V a n c o u v e r Island a n d more.

Soon after the l a u n c h i n g , I d r o v e back u p t o V a n c o u v e r a n d b o u g h t another k i t - the last of their doubles.

It came together m u c h m o r e easily; a p p a r e n t l y stitch-and-tape lends itself to a s h a r p l e a r n i n g curve. The d o u b l e is 18'long a n d about 65 p o u n d s - t w o feet shorter a n d 25 p o u n d s l i g h t e r t h a n m o s t of the storeb o u g h t s . T h e B r o z e s f o u n d me a couple more seats. I soon a d d e d a r u d d e r for steerage in any k i n d of w i n d o r current.

M y boats l i v e i n the rafters o f the garage, w h i c h was designed to acc o m m o d a t e t h e m . I p a d d l e frequently, year-round - mostly day trips w i t h one or t w o - w e e k - l o n g expeditions i n the s u m m e r . O n weekdays, I lash the G r a n t a to my car rack, take i t t o w o r k a n d sneak o u t a t l u n c h , e a t i n g m y s a n d w i c h i n the m i d d l e of L a k e U n i o n - a sure bet for the m i d d a y restoration o f m y s o u l .

A l a s , the G r a n t a kits are no longer a v a i l a b l e in V a n c o u v e r . A s i m i l a r stitch-and-tape k i t is available f r o m P y g m y Kayaks in Port Townsend.

It's a larger boat a n d , to my m i n d , the d e s i g n is a bit b o x y .

B u t it's w o o d . A n d that's the important thing.

[The k a y a k kits are manufactured by G r a n t a Boats L t d . , 23 - 29 G r e a t Whyte, R A M S E Y , Huntingdon, Cambs. PE 17 1EZ, England. A n d if y o u ' d l i k e to see one for yourself, Ross w i l l be d i s p l a y i n g his Grantas at the L a k e U n i o n W o o d e n Boat Festiv a l J u l y 3-5.]

In that part of his life not devoted to kayaking, Pulitzer Prize winner (for his coverage of the E x x o n V a l d e z oil spill)

Ross Anderson is an editorial page writer and editorial board member for the Seattle T i m e s . He's also a member of the CWB

Board of Trustees.

10 SHAVINGS July 1992

Lettersfrom Afloat by Lynn Barnes Most people who take CWB's Sail NOW! course are content to use their newly-acquired skills on the waters of Lake Union and Puget Sound. But not Lynn Barnes, recipient of the first Sail NOW! Outstanding Graduate award. Lynn honed her sailing talent crewing for races on Puget Sound and then set her sights offshore. While the rest of us saw the New Year in more conventionally, Lynn headed for San Diego looking for a crew position to sail the waters of Mexico. Here are some excerpts from her letters home: February 8, 1992 Dear C W B Friends, A f t e r a w e e k of meeting skippers a n d l o o k i n g at boats, I d e c i d e d on a Kettenburg 40 n a m e d Fair Lady because of the salty female s k i p p e r a n d because it is a w o o d e n boat.

T w o a d d i t i o n a l c r e w members joined us: a couple of y o u n g Brits w i t h a M o n t y P y t h o n sense of h u m o r beneath E n g l i s h politesse. Peter a n d R o d a n d I helped w i t h the s h o p p i n g a n d e r r a n d - r u n n i n g a n d then p a c k e d a Subaru f u l l of p r o v i s i o n s for a threew e e k sail d o w n the coat of Baja.

W e a r r i v e d i n Santispac C o v e o n C o n c e p t i o n B a y February 3, after t w o days j o u r n e y t h r o u g h b o u l d e r fields a n d Saguaro forests. A f t e r a f e w m o r e days of s t o w i n g a n d cleaning, we set sail on a Saturday afternoon.

The engine w o u l d n ' t start, so we p u l l e d anchors a n d were u n d e r sail.

W e sailed a l l n i g h t o u r first night, i n c h i n g across the b a y because o u r w i n d h a d d i e d a n d the engine seemed hopelessly d e a d too. But the night was b e a u t i f u l - stars on f u l l d i s p l a y

a n d an early-setting m o o n to sail b y .

A recent r e d tide caused an i n o r d i nate a m o u n t of phosphorescence in the bay so the f i s h a n d d o l p h i n l o o k e d like g l o w i n g torpedoes!

Peter emerged as the n i g h t - o w l ; we t h r e w the lead line a n d anchored at D o m i n g o Point at sunrise. We rested at a n c h o r for the d a y a n d w a t c h e d the w i l d l i f e . D o l p h i n s came

by to say hello; frigate b i r d s , t u r k e y vultures a n d pelicans v i s i t e d too.

The next d a y we w a i t e d for a w i n d t o come u p , p u l l e d anchors a n d sailed on a b r i s k westerly for M u l e j e at the m o u t h of the B a y to check in w i t h the P o r t C a p t a i n .

A f t e r a night at an o p e n anchorage, we p u l l e d up the h o o k at sunrise a n d sailed d o w n w i n d t o w a r d the

open h o r i z o n - the Sea of Cortez. We sailed a l l n i g h t again, this time prepared e n o u g h to establish watches.

We headed three m i l e s out f r o m shore a n d got a f i x on a lighthouse on an i s l a n d in the distance. (Not a l l of the lighthouses in M e x i c o are always lit.

We f o u n d one of those.) The night weather v a r i e d f r o m d o l d r u m s to whitecaps. By sunrise we were pre-

July 1992 SHAVINGS 11

p a r i n g to anchor at P u l p i t o P o i n t , a 400-foot-tall onshore rock that p r o v i d e d northerly and westerly protection.

Of course, as s o o n as we a n chored a strong w i n d came u p f r o m the east a n d the c l o u d s m o v e d i n . W e rested for the d a y b u t the weather d i d not invite us to explore the r o c k y shore. It rained a l l the next d a y so we d i d v a r i o u s r e p a i r projects, b a k e d bread a n d s t u d i e d S p a n i s h .

B y nightfall, the w i n d p i c k e d u p a n d I resorted to sitting outside in the cockpit, b u n d l e d up against the c o l d rain, t r y i n g to a v o i d the r o l l i n g of the cabin. (I thought: "I c o u l d be d o i n g this i n Seattle w i t h m y friends at C W B ! " ) But I c o u l d n ' t a v o i d seasickness as the boat r o c k e d w i t h the swells a l l night.

We rose at sunrise, p u l l e d a n chors a n d s a i l e d d o w n w i n d o n a gentle westerly. O u r sail w a s s m o o t h , s u n n y a n d short. I rested on the foredeck t r y i n g t o recover m y n o r m a l enthusiasm for s a i l i n g . We d r o p p e d anchor i n the most beautiful cove w e ' v e seen s o far. W e w e n t ashore for the first time in almost a week and explored shore, s w a m , snorkeled and climbed on w i n d carved sandstone cliffs - a n d t o o k care of some i m p o r t a n t correspondence.

W e baked b r e a d o n a n o p e n fire on the beach a n d encountered other p e o p l e f o r the f i r s t t i m e s i n c e Santispac. The cruisers here have est a b l i s h e d a t r a d i t i o n of i n s c r i b i n g their boat name on a rock a n d m a k i n g a pile of them near a l o n e tree as sort of a "cruisers' s h r i n e , " so we p a i n t e d a c o l o r f u l representation of Our boat a n d c r e w a n d w i l l a d d i t t o the shrine before we leave San Juanico C o v e .

Fair w i n d s and f o l l o w i n g seas, Lynn February 19, 1992 D e a r C W B folks, It w a s a d a r k a n d s t o r m y n i g h t . . . oops, sorry, w r o n g tall tale!

A c t u a l l y it was a s u n n y clear d a y after an exciting sail over to a deserted i s l a n d . A f e l l o w cruiser t o l d us about a d a y hike on the i s l a n d . He

said an abandoned salt-mining t o w n w a s on the other side of the m o u n tains. "Just f o l l o w the d r y r i v e r b e d .

H o u r h i k e i n . Y o u can't miss i t . " W e p a c k e d a l u n c h a n d headed out, f o l l o w i n g the r i v e r b e d t h r o u g h a c a n y o n of r e d r o c k s a n d desert b l o o m . T w o hours later the r i v e r h a d n a r r o w e d to almost n o t h i n g . We ret u r n e d to the last m a r k e r a n d traced the trail up a ravine to the s u m m i t a n d started o u r descent d o w n the other side., By the time we reached the v i l l a g e , it was five o'clock a n d we k n e w the s u n w o u l d set b y six.

Fortunately, o u r deserted i s l a n d turned o u t to be inhabited by a c a m p of fishermen. In b r o k e n S p a n i s h , I asked for their h e l p . T h e y c o u l d not take us b a c k to the anchorage by p o n g a because of the strong w i n d s , b u t they c o u l d take us to the yachts anchored nearby. W e met o u r f e l l o w c o u n t r y m e n a n d e x p l a i n e d o u r situat i o n . They let us use their r a d i o a n d offered us some s l e e p i n g bags.

Juan a n d Francisco took pleasure in h e l p i n g us out. As s o o n as he realized w e w o u l d b e s l e e p i n g o n the beach, Juan had s a i d , " N u e s t r a

problemas estan nuestra v e n t u r a s . " O u r p r o b l e m s are o u r adventures.

T h e y t o o k us b a c k to the beach, offered u s " a n y r o o m o n the beach"

12SHAVINGS July 1992

a n d cooked us fresh f i s h over a c a m p fire as the f u l l m o o n rose.

W e h i k e d back the next m o r n i n g a n d , u p o n r e t u r n i n g , f o u n d that o u r message, r e l a y e d by another boat, h a d gotten c o n v o l u t e d into being a g r o u p o f y o u n g c h i l d r e n lost i n the desert, w a l k i n g for 10 miles to find their w a y homeM o r e later. M a y a l l y o u r p r o b lems be adventures!

Lynn February 29, 1992 D e a r C W B friends, W e d i d it! W e a r r i v e d i n L a P a z after a l o n g homestretch of 36 hours u n d e r sail f r o m Puerto L o s Gatos.

W e h a d i n t e n d e d t o anchor but, w h e n the w i n d d i e d m i d d a y a n d left u s n o w h e r e near o u r d e s t i n a t i o n , w e d e c i d e d to sail a l l n i g h t a n d head i n t o L a Paz. Peter took an early nap a n d [our skipper] A n n a n d I t o o k turns on the late e v e n i n g / e a r l y m o r n i n g shifts.

R o d h a d come d o w n w i t h c h i c k e n p o x after Puerto B a l l a n d r a , so he's stayed h o l e d up in the forepeak ever since.

W e w h i s p e r e d a l o n g d u r i n g the n i g h t u n t i l the w i n d p i c k e d u p m i d morning. By afternoon, we had a steady strong s o u t h e r l y to c a r r y us into the La P a z channel. The s u n set as w e neared L a P a z a n d the c i t y lights came on a n d a g r a n d p a r t y began to stir. M u s i c a n d d a n c i n g - h u n d r e d s of p e o p l e l i n e d the streets a l o n g the beach for C a r n i v a l .

W e ' l l stay here f o r a w h i l e (that's w h a t everyone says about L a P a z . . . b u t t h e n they never leave) before h e a d i n g on for a c o u p l e more weeks o f c r u i s i n g . T h e n I'm h e a d i n g h o m e

before I lose a l l t o u c h w i t h reality.

Salud!

Lynn M a r c h 16,1992 Dear C W B f r i e n d s , Fair Lady stayed i n L a P a z to d o some b o t t o m w o r k b u t A n n introd u c e d me to her f r i e n d Sandra on Serenta, a n E r i c s o n 35. S a n d r a w a n t e d to cross the Sea of C o r t e z a n d head s o u t h . We agreed on a c o u p l e of weeks of s a i l i n g , g o t p r o v i s i o n s , s a i d goodbyes a n d headed off.

First we w e n t n o r t h for a couple of d a y s of p l a y w i t h a c o u p l e of b u d d y boats on the nearby islands.

W e sailed into P a r t i d a C o v e a t l o w tide. The w a t e r was a turquoise blue a n d the beaches s a n d y a n d white.

O u r friends h a d already rafted up so w e approached a n d r o u n d e d u p between them a n d the beach w i t h the depthsounder r e a d i n g 10 feet. W i t h a draft of five feet, we d i d n ' t w o r r y about h i t t i n g bottom - b u t we d i d .

No better place to r u n a g r o u n d than on a sandbar 20 feet a w a y f r o m help.

O u r friends l a u g h e d a n d came over to rescue us. So m u c h for electronic reassurances.

W e h a d a p o t l u c k complete w i t h fresh f i s h p u r c h a s e d f r o m the fisherm e n o n the beach. T h e w i n d came u p shortly after d i n n e r so we a l l q u i c k l y un-rafted a n d a n c h o r e d apart. The next d a y , we p l a y e d race d a y (the 11th C o m m a n d m e n t : w h e n e v e r there are t w o or more sailboats, there shalt be a race) a n d a n c h o r e d in another c o l o r f u l cove f o r the night.

M o n d a y m o r n i n g , Sandra picked up a weather forecast on the sideb a n d r a d i o a n d d e c i d e d this was o u r w i n d o w of opportunity: steady

July 1992 SHAVINGS 13

w i n d s across the Sea of C o r t e z . We canceled out on the c l a m bake a n d snorkelling plans of the g r o u p a n d plotted a course east.

We had sun and w i n d all day and b i g s w e l l s as s o o n as we cleared the islands. The evening b r o u g h t gusts a n d forced u s t o reef d o w n . O n D a y T w o , we were b e y o n d sight of l a n d and the weather was a little overcast but still w i n d y .

Sandra s a i d crossings were a lot like c h i l d b i r t h . Y o u ' r e miserable at the time but w h e n it's o v e r , y o u ' r e so g l a d y o u d i d it. I f o u n d that m i n e was more like constant m o r n i n g sickness.

I h a d been seasick since we hit the b i g swells, but was s t i l l able to do watches. I just c o u l d n ' t go b e l o w .

W e set u p f o u r - h o u r watches b y d a y a n d three-hour watches b y night.

The autohelm gave o u t on us before we got to P a r t i d a , so we w e r e steeri n g a l l the time. Sleep was pretty m u c h impossible w i t h just the t w o of us o n b o a r d - one on the h e l m , one on whatever tasks, adjustments or acc o m m o d a t i n g that needed to be d o n e .

D a y Three was d a r k , r a i n y a n d overcast. W e m a d e i t into M a z a t l a n b y m i d n i g h t a n d rested for several days before d i s c o v e r i n g a n o i l leak that w o u l d change o u r p l a n s for Puerto V a l l a r t a .

I learned a lot f r o m that place b e y o n d sight of l a n d - b u t it a l l seems so melodramatic f r o m the vantage p o i n t o f t h i s safe a n c h o r a g e i n M a z a t l a n . N e v e r t h e l e s s , here are some thoughts f r o m a night w a t c h :

p r o v i d e the solitude that invites revelations a n d resurrects b u r i e d fears.

But ultimately, they g i v e y o u reassurances that y o u w i l l s u r v i v e , despite the echoes of stories of those w h o d i d not.

A s y o u struggle t o stand u p r i g h t in the r o c k i n g of the w a v e s a n d the gusts of w i n d , y o u see the boat repeatedly right itself and p l o w forw a r d t h r o u g h the r o a d w a y of water.

E v e n t u a l l y , y o u learn not to be afraid of the crash of the w a v e s or the p u s h of the gusts a n d n o t to waste energy on fear in the safety of the cockpit but to save y o u r mistrust f o r the autohelm that fails or the G P S that runs out of juice, to save y o u r fear for the precarious tasks f o r w a r d - reefing the m a i n or u n t a n g l i n g a f o u l e d line, a l l the w h i l e h o l d i n g on to the boat for dear life.

In a l l its vastness a n d p u r e p o w e r , the sea mystifies a n d intrigues but, at a basic level, it s i m p l y d e m a n d s d o m i nation. D o n ' t fight the sea or y o u w i l l die of exhaustion. D o m i n a t e it a n d y o u can co-exist.

Stamina a n d endurance are tested more than a n y t h i n g else in a crossing.

So be prepared, s t u d y the charts a n d compare i n f o r m a t i o n a n d then trust y o u r instincts.

A n d f i n a l l y , w h e n y o u reach y o u r destination, remember where you started - a n d t h a n k someone.

Fair w i n d s , f o l l o w i n g seas a n d peace a n d l o v e .

See y o u a l l s o o n , Lynn

W h e n the sea stretches f r o m h o r i z o n to h o r i z o n a n d s a i l i n g becomes a m o n o t o n o u s test of y o u r e n d u r ance, y o u f i n d yourself c o u n t i n g the days a l l d a y l o n g ; the nights are even longer than the d a y s . N i g h t watches

And she did see us soon - but not for long. In June, Lynn was off again, this time heading north where she is spending the summer as crew on a small cruise ship, the E m e r a l d Sea, on the Gulf of Alaska.

14 SHAVINGS July 1992

Man the Oars and Map the Coast The Role Played by Men of the Lower Deck in Vancouvers's Voyage to the North Pacific, 1791 -1795

by Jill King illustrations by Hewitt Jackson It has been 200 years since a company run ship, exemplary conditions of of ships and men under the command of health a n d welfare a n d more a d v e n Captain George Vancouver conducted theturous travel than most N a v y s h i p s first definitive survey of the waters of the of the time c o u l d offer r e p a i d the Pacific Northwest. Much has been writ- c o m m o n sailors' c o n t r i b u t i o n to this ten about that achievement but little of the magnificent team effort. men who made it possible. The following V a n c o u v e r a c k n o w l e d g e d the i n account has been excerpted from a paperadequacy of w o r d s to describe the prepared by Northwest historian Jill King sense of achievement felt by a l l on as a prelude to her honors thesis at the that last d a y of their s u r v e y i n g m i s s i o n . N o t part of the f i n a l boat expeUniversity of Victoria. . . . N o s m a l l p o r t i o n of facetious m i r t h passed amongst the s e a m a n , i n consequence of o u r h a v i n g sailed f r o m o l d E n g l a n d o n the first of April, for the p u r p o s e of d i s c o v e r i n g a n o r t h west passage, b y f o l l o w i n g u p the discoveries o f D e F u c a , D e Fonte a n d a numerous train of hypothetical n a v i gators.

- George V a n c o u v e r ' s j o u r n a l W h e n C a p t a i n George V a n c o u v e r f i n a l l y l a i d to rest the m y t h of an i n l a n d w a t e r w a y connecting E u r o p e to the O r i e n t , his success was the result of tremendous cooperation between seamen a n d officers. A w e l l -

d i t i o n himself, h e echoed c o m m a n d i n g officer Joseph W h i d b e y ' s remarks that language c o u l d not describe "the j o y that w a s manifested i n e v e r y c o u n tenance." As w a s so often d o n e before, a d d i t i o n a l allowances of g r o g were served to celebrate their success a n d congratulatory cheers r a n g f r o m s h i p to s h i p .

The s h i p s ' c o m p l e m e n t h a d every reason t o cheer each other. A n isolated fragment of B r i t i s h society, they h a d l i v e d a l m o s t e n t i r e l y o n their o w n resources for three a n d a half years a n d w o u l d continue t o d o so for another year before sighting the shores of E n g l a n d . And they h a d a c c o m p l i s h e d a most a m a z i n g s u r v e y

- a s u r v e y w h i c h , because of its m i n u t e attention to d e t a i l p r o v e d c o n c l u s i v e l y that no northwest passage existed. The attention to detail had been achieved solely by the use of the s h i p s ' boats a n d their indefatigable crews.

W h e n V a n c o u v e r w a s directed to c o m m a n d an e x p e d i t i o n to the N o r t h west Coast of A m e r i c a , his duties i n c l u d e d receiving the d i s p u t e d lands at N o o t k a f r o m the S p a n i s h , b u t the p r i m a r y objective of the v o y a g e was to examine the coast between L a t i tudes 60째 a n d 30째 n o r t h . The most often quoted lines of V a n c o u v e r ' s instructions r e q u i r e d h i m to check a n y o p e n i n g that m i g h t facilitate c o m m u n i c a t i o n , whether b y l a n d o r w a ter, to the opposite side of the continent already i n h a b i t e d by H i s Majesty's subjects.

Balancing the requirements of his instructions a n d considering their e m phasis to be on navigability, V a n c o u v e r m a d e the d e c i s i o n that w o u l d dictate a l l activity for the next three s u m m e r s . H i s w o r d s after exp l o r i n g the P u g e t S o u n d area are v e r y w o r t h q u o t i n g , as it is in this location that the boats p r o v e d i n d i s pensable for the task at h a n d : O n d u e consideration o f a l l the circumstances that h a d fallen u n d e r m y o w n observation, a n d the i n t e l l i gence n o w i m p a r t e d b y M r .

B r o u g h t o n [who h a d been sent n o r t h a n d h a d e x p l o r e d a r o u n d the San Juan Islands], I became t h o r o u g h l y c o n v i n c e d that o u r boats alone c o u l d enable us to acquire a n y correct or satisfactory i n f o r m a t i o n respecting this b r o k e n c o u n t r y ; a n d a l t h o u g h

c

the execution of s u c h a service in o p e n boats w o u l d necessarily be extremely laborious a n d expose those so e m p l o y e d to numberless dangers a n d unpleasant situations, that m i g h t occasionally p r o d u c e great fatigue, a n d protract their r e t u r n to the ships; yet that m o d e w a s u n d o u b t e d l y the most accurate, the most ready, a n d i n d e e d the o n l y one in o u r p o w e r to p u r s u e for ascertaining the continental b o u n d a r y .

These s m a l l o p e n craft, u s u a l l y p r o p e l l e d b y oar, sometimes b y s m a l l sail, were no strangers to h a r d w o r k .

W o r k h o r s e s of the N a v y , s h i p s ' boats were indispensable to a vessel dep e n d e n t o n w i n d for m o m e n t u m a n d subject to the w h i m of currents a n d t i d a l m o t i o n . Survey w o r k w a s carr i e d o u t f r o m Discovery's boats at m a n y places a l o n g her g l o b a l route, but they also h a d v a r i o u s other uses.

M a n y a l o g mentions the "boats ahead t o w i n g - i n l i g h t a i r s " ; their c o n certed effort w a s often a l l that saved a s h i p g o i n g on the rocks a n d , m o r e than once, the boats of Chatham a n d Discovery assisted w h e n their s h i p s h a d g r o u n d e d . T h o u g h t the lead l i n e w a s h e a v e d f r o m the s h i p , i n u n k n o w n waters it w a s w i s e to have the m u c h s h a l l o w e r draft of a longboat out ahead also s o u n d i n g for d e p t h .

T h e y h e l p e d set a n d retrieve anchors.

T h e y w e r e sent o n w o o d i n g a n d w a t e r i n g missions, to search for safe harbor for the larger vessels, on f i s h i n g trips a n d to c o n v e y both n e w s a n d p e o p l e ship-to-ship a n d ship-toshore - t h o u g h even they d i d n o t a l w a y s expedite matters.

D u r i n g the first visit to H a w a i i , h e l p f r o m native canoes was sought to c o n v e y officers t h r o u g h a h e a v y surf to the boat that l a y at a g r a p p l i n g . A canoe o v e r t u r n e d ; the m e n were flung into the water. V a n c o u v e r refused to try again by canoe, suspecting it h a d been upset on p u r p o s e ; he s w a m off to a w a i t i n g boat.

July 1992 SHAVINGS 15

The Discovery carried five boats.

H e r 26' l a u n c h h a d 10 r o w i n g stations and a two-masted lug sail rig. A modern day reproduction, built from the lines of the o r i g i n a l , it cruises c o m f o r t a b l y u n d e r oars at a f o u r and-a-half-knot average a n d reaches six knots u n d e r s a i l . The vessel most often used by V a n c o u v e r was 25 feet i n l e n g t h , six feet, eight inches i n beam - "the perfect p r o p o r t i o n for a r o w i n g a n d s a i l i n g boat," says historic s h i p b u i l d e r G r e g Foster - w i t h a three-masted s a i l i n g r i g a n d e i g h t oars d o u b l e - b a n k e d . Of substantial construction, she d r e w o n l y 18 inches.

This y a w l was called different names by d i f f e r e n t p e o p l e . Discovery a n d Chatham historian Ted Roberts s u g gests that the nomenclature w a s d i rectly related to the use it was being p u t to at the time. F o r instance, L i e u tenant Peter Puget always referred to it as the pinnace w h e n it was b e i n g used by the expedition's c o m m a n d e r .

A l s o o n b o a r d were t w o cutters a n d a jolly boat.

On J a n u a r y 18,1791, the Chatham received her boats: a l a u n c h of 19 feet, a cutter of 22 feet a n d a 12-foot j o l l y boat (also referred to as a p u n t ) .

T h e l a u n c h w a s stowed a m i d s h i p s between the fore and m a i n mast, the cutter over it, w h i l e the j o l l y boat h u n g over the stern.

H o i s t e d by means of tackles attached to fore a n d m a i n y a r d a r m s , the cumbersome business of p u t t i n g the boats to water could require all hands. Just one d a y into his c o m m a n d , V a n c o u v e r h a d h a d the m a i n yards replaced w i t h longer y a r d s to facilitate this process. John D a v i d s o n , A . B . , i n particular, w o u l d have reas o n to thank the far easier launchings possible f r o m the stern position. In October of 1792 he was w a s h e d overboard in a h e a v y sea. He was a g o o d s w i m m e r a n d s u p p o r t e d himself u n t i l the s m a l l boat f r o m the stern was able t o p i c k h i m u p . A r c h i b a l d M e n z i e s , the voyage's botanist a n d surgeon, comments that that seaman's life was o w e d to fast l a u n c h i n g of the boat. In the practice of stern stowage, V a n c o u v e r appears to have been a leader since it w a s not c o m m o n u n t i l the t u r n of the 18th century. He cont i n u e d the practice even t h o u g h t w o boats w e r e s t o v e i n that e x p o s e d position.

In h i s analysis of the 18th century B r i t i s h N a v y , N . A . M . Rodgers writes that the m o d e r n assumption of a ship's c o m p a n y consisting of t w o separate a n d distinct g r o u p s , officers a n d m e n , does not a p p l y i n s u c h s i m p l e terms a n d was not necessarily related o n l y to social barriers. R a n k ( i n c l u d i n g c o m m i s s i o n e d , w a r r a n t a n d petty officers as w e l l as m i d s h i p m e n ) , age a n d then the i n v i s i b l e distinctions of class a l l came into p l a y . It is d i f f i c u l t to i m a g i n e that a s m a l l craft afloat in a n u n k n o w n (to them) w o r l d w i t h a p p r o x i m a t e l y a d o z e n m e n aboard c o u l d m a i n t a i n strict d i v i s i o n .

A hypothetical boat c r e w p u t together b y T e d Roberts, u s i n g the ship's m u s t e r b o o k , describes the eight m e n at the oars. Three h o l d petty officer rank. T h e i r d e m o g r a p h i c d i s t r i b u t i o n matches contemporary statistics of the R o y a l n a v y : four f r o m E n g l a n d , t w o f r o m Ireland a n d one each f r o m Scotland and W a l e s . The 35-year-old V a n c o u v e r c o m m a n d s this particular e x p e d i t i o n (June 12 to June 23,1792). T w e n t y - t w o - y e a r - o l d M r . M a n b y a n d other u n n a m e d

" y o u n g g e n t l e m e n " were a l o n g , as was supernumerary A r c h i b a l d M e n z i e s . This boat c r e w p r o f i l e is representative of m a n y . In some cases, a m a r i n e or t w o w o u l d be in the p a r t y ; i n Puget S o u n d a n I n d i a n chief r o d e w i t h M r . W h i d b e y a l l aftern o o n . S u c h g r o u p s faced m a n y d a n gers together, took w h a t pleasure there was in their w o r k a n d shared a sense of achievement as it progressed.

W h e n entered in the muster, the average age of the seamen was 25.

This m a d e t h e m already a year older t h a n the national average at the time.

A l l rated A b l e Seamen, they were a v e r y experienced crew, fit a n d a d v e n t u r o u s . Just one w a s m a r r i e d . N o first-person accounts have come d o w n f r o m them, but a study of s h i p s ' records a n d their officers c o m ments i n journals a n d letters p r o v i d e s some insight into their lives.

P u n i s h m e n t s g i v e n a n d for w h a t m i s d e m e a n o r s , desertions i n c l u d i n g b o t h w h e r e a n d w h e n , w h a t stores were b r o u g h t f r o m s h i p s ' p r o v i s i o n s , h o w m u c h was d r a w n f r o m the slops chest a n d also w h a t items were a v a i l able t h e r e i n , m e d i c a l t r e a t m e n t s sought or needed, dietary habits ascertained f r o m stores taken on b o a r d a n d f r o m h u n t i n g expeditions - a l l these serve to f o r m a d e s c r i p t i o n of w h o w e n t t o sea w i t h V a n c o u v e r .

M o r e singular characteristics are revealed in the officers' descriptions of d a i l y labor a n d events.

W h o can d o u b t the d a r i n g of a m a n w h o w o u l d leap o v e r b o a r d f r o m a fast-sailing s h i p d u r i n g the ceremonies of crossing the line? M i d s h i p m a n B e l l recorded that "the G o d s got so v e r y m e r r y that one of them, tired of b e i n g o u t o f h i s element, j u m p e d o v e r b o a r d . " L u c k i l y , the d i s g u i s e d sailor caught h o l d of a rope that was t r a i l i n g f r o m u n d e r the chains of the vessel a n d w a s so s a v e d .

S u c h b o l d s p i r i t m i g h t stand them in g o o d stead on the u n e x p l o r e d coast o f N o r t h w e s t A m e r i c a w h e r e each d a y brought n e w challenges and m a n y times a c r e w was asked to risk lives to realize V a n c o u v e r ' s goal. The question w a s rhetorical; the risk was no greater t h a n expected of a n y n a v y rating. F o r these peacetime sailors, the N a v y offered a job w i t h a wage, as o p p o s e d to the lifetime career that i t m a d e for officers. The c o m m o n r a t i n g j o i n e d a s h i p as o p p o r t u n i t y presented a n d stayed u n t i l he was d i s c h a r g e d or the s h i p p a i d off.

A t a time w h e n n a v a l ships spent less t h a n 50 percent of their time at sea, V a n c o u v e r ' s v o y a g e c o m p a r e d w e l l . Of the f o u r a n d a half years a w a y , 37 percent of the time was s p e n d on the o p e n sea. T h i r t y - f i v e percent was spent i n ports a n d harbors, i n c l u d i n g s u c h pleasant climates as Australia and N e w Zealand, Tahiti, Hawaii, California and V a l p a r a i s o . T h e r e m a i n i n g 28 percent was time spent i n coastal waters i n c l u d i n g each s u m m e r ' s f o u r - m o n t h p e r i o d o n the N o r t h w e s t Coast.

E c o n o m i c o p p o r t u n i t y was a g o o d reason to go to sea; it was h i g h l y p a i d by comparison w i t h agricultural wages a n d , in a w o r l d g r o w n i n creasingly curious of foreign parts, a v o y a g e a r o u n d the w o r l d was app e a l i n g . C o m p a r i n g a s i m p l e measure of tons per m a n , Rodgers finds that w o r k i n a N a v y s h i p was c o n s i d erably lighter than that of m e r c h a n t m e n . V i c t u a l i n g costs also indicate a m u c h better diet w h i c h , he

says, was g o o d a n d p l e n t i f u l by the standards of the d a y .

V a n c o u v e r restocked p r o v i s i o n s at his v a r i o u s ports of call. A n d rem e m b e r i n g w h a t ports they w e r e i m p l i e s some rather u n u s u a l fare for the times. D u r i n g stops i n T a h i t i a n d H a w a i i , the c r e w ate p i n e a p p l e , cocon u t , grapes, oranges a n d w a t e r m e l o n as w e l l as a l l k i n d s of vegetables. No c o m m e n t has b e e n f o u n d a s t o whether s u c h foods were preferred but, u n k n o w i n g l y , it was their freshness that k e p t the dreaded s c u r v y at bay.

T h o m p s o n f o u n d representative of n a v a l n u t r i t i o n i n the 1790s. H e estimates a d a i l y intake of 4,400 calories a n d gives as its source one p o u n d of biscuit a n d one g a l l o n of beer a d a y , 32 ounces of lean salt beef a n d 16 ounces of salt p o r k twice per week, t w o ounces of d r i e d f i s h , the same of butter and four ounces of cheese three times per w e e k a n d eight ounces of "pease" four times a week. C e r t a i n l y the e x p e d i t i o n carried s i m i l a r s u p plies b u t o p p o r t u n i t i e s for v a r i e t y a n d freshness were greater than if they h a d been o n blockade d u t y .

Fresh food was considered a l u x u r y w h e n c o m p a r e d t o salted p r o v i s i o n s . The H a w a i i a n s also s u p p l i e d salt. D e p a r t i n g H a w a i i in 1792, the Chatham took o n eight tons of yams w h i l e Discovery h a d a n even greater s u p p l y . The C a l i f o r n i a coast s u p p l i e d fine vegetables a n d fruit f r o m Spanish gardens. Cattle, f o w l s , goats, pigs a n d sheep w e r e carried for eating a n d for d r o p p i n g off at v a r i o u s points w h e r e they m i g h t breed for the b e n efit o f future voyages. N e w s u p p l i e s of t h e m w e r e b o u g h t or r e c e i v e d wherever available.

The c o m m a n d e r of s u c h a farr a n g i n g e x p e d i t i o n w o u l d attract the attention of sailors seeking a berth a n d his reputation w o u l d go before h i m . U n d o u b t e d l y , some w o u l d have sailed w i t h V a n c o u v e r before. T h e y w o u l d have a n idea o f w h a t w o u l d b e expected of them, the treatment they were g o i n g to receive a n d the f o o d they w o u l d b e served. T h e y p r o b a b l y k n e w that V a n c o u v e r r a n a clean a n d healthy s h i p .

W h e t h e r a l l o n b o a r d were v o l unteers is not clear. Press gangs were not v e r y active in peacetime, yet 21 m e n are recorded as h a v i n g r u n before departure f r o m E n g l a n d , w h i c h

C o m p a r e this diet to one that Surgeon-Commander G.J. M i l t o n -

16 SHAVINGS July 1992

raises the p o s s i b i l i t y that they m a y have been i m p r e s s e d . Three deserted at foreign ports. Rates of desertion are d i f f i c u l t to obtain for the p e r i o d .

D u r i n g the Seven years W a r of 17561763, a n n u a l loss, averaged out to seven percent. A more a p p r o p r i a t e c o m p a r i s o n m i g h t be to C o o k ' s t h i r d voyage; 31 percent of that c r e w deserted, as c o m p a r e d to 17 percent f r o m Discovery a n d Chatham.

A t y p i c a l d a y d u r i n g one of the s u r v e y i n g expeditions began at 4 a.m. w i t h several hours at the oars p r e c e d i n g a stop for breakfast sometime before 9 a.m. A n o o n stop was m a n datory for observation w o r k , t h o u g h m a n y other stops were m a d e to m e a sure angles at p r o m i n e n t points a n d suitable locations or w h e r e v e r the w i n d i n g s of the coastline dictated.

To a c c o m m o d a t e the n e e d f o r

astronomical observations the d a y at sea began, then as n o w , at n o o n , one b e l l b e i n g r u n g for each t u r n of a halfh o u r glass. At eight bells, a w a t c h w o u l d go off d u t y a n d another take its place. Between 4 p . m . a n d 8 p . m . t w o watches of t w o h o u r s each (dog watches) enabled a rotation so that no w a t c h c o n t i n u a l l y served the same hours.

For m e n accustomed t o l i v i n g b y a 24-hour clock, a 4 a.m. start was not a h a r d s h i p . At sea, f e w got m o r e than f o u r h o u r s sleep at a time but, o b v i o u s l y , on a boat e x p e d i t i o n there w o u l d be no watch-changing. C o m p a r e d to life aboard s h i p , an e x p e d i t i o n timetable actually m a d e for quite a shore-like routine.

A late start or, in some cases, no start at a l l d u e to s t o r m y weather was a l w a y s noted i n journals a n d

logs, as was a late f i n i s h . The m a n y times w h e n a d a y f i n i s h e d at d u s k or before w o u l d not a l w a y s be recorded since it w a s c o m m o n p l a c e . The occurrences that stand out in every j o u r n a l are instances s u c h as " m i d n i g h t before we c o u l d get u n d e r a n y shelter" a n d "constantly r o w i n g f r o m nine i n the forenoon u n t i l after m i d n i g h t . " U n q u e s t i o n a b l y , a lot w a s expected of the boat crews at these times but there are also recorded times of relative ease u n d e r s a i l , hours of more leisurely activity d u r i n g a s u n n y a n d w a r m n o o n break, moments o f i n trigue a n d pleasure d u r i n g contact w i t h other cultures.

A n o o n stop w a s often a l o n g break w h i c h i n c l u d e d d i n n e r a n d enabled other activities u n t i l embarkation once m o r e a r o u n d 3 p . m . C o n t i n u i n g t h r o u g h the afternoon, stops w o u l d b e m a d e a l o n g the w a y not o n l y for s u r v e y i n g but also to v i s i t or trade w i t h local inhabitants, to replenish various supplies whenever an o p p o r t u n i t y presented itself a n d to m a k e i n q u i r y about a n y detail that m i g h t elucidate the w o r k i n h a n d .

As the boats c o n t i n u a l l y reached into n e w territory, it was essential that g u n s be c a r e f u l l y m a i n t a i n e d a n d p o w d e r aired or d r i e d , both as a precaution a n d for o b t a i n i n g f o o d .

O p p o r t u n i t i e s for h u n t i n g a n d f i s h i n g h a d to be taken w h e n they a p p e a r e d . O f t e n , the n o o n break a l l o w e d time to fish but supplies b r o u g h t by the local residents freq u e n t l y w e r e more reliable than the crew's o w n efforts. It m a y be that more of the unsuccessful h u n t i n g attempts (rather t h a n the successful ones) were noted i n journals. M a n y occasions are r e c o r d e d w h e n "the s p o r t s m e n have n o l u c k a n d i f J u l y 31, 1792, is a n y example of their s k i l l s as m a r k s m e n , little w o n d e r . " O n that d a y Discovery's y a w l , l a u n c h a n d cutter were w o r k i n g up a n a r r o w channel w h e r e a deer h a d taken shelter on a r o c k p r e c i p i c e ; there was no escape except by the w a y i t had entered. T h e first t w o boats d i d not see the deer. Seated in the t h i r d , V a n c o u v e r refers to a " p l a toon of m u s k e t s " being d i s c h a r g e d at the creature by the w h o l e party w i t h o u t effect. T h e n a s e a m a n alighted a n d , w i t h a boat hook, d r a g g e d i t b y the neck w h e n " u p w a r d s of 20 muskets on this occasion were f i r e d , seven of w h i c h h i t [the deer] but no one m o r t a l l y , or w o u n d e d h i m in s u c h a m a n n e r as to have prevented his e s c a p i n g . " Perhaps it h a d been a l o n g d a y !

O t h e r food h u n t i n g episodes p r o d u c e d w i l d f o w l , several p o r c u p i n e s (one estimated at 25 p o u n d s ) , t w o bear cubs ("excellent eating") w h o s e m o t h e r h a d r u n off in fright a n d a not-so-popular beaver a n d a black bear. A y o u n g seal was eaten near D e s o l a t i o n S o u n d . B i r d s ' eggs w e r e often collected. Puget c o m m e n t s on s o m e of the fare: " S o m e b i r d s the G e n t l e m e n shot afforded us an E x cellent Repast; these were p r i n c i p a l l y C u r l e w s . B u t neither Eagles o r C r o w s w o u l d t h e m have been rejected, w h i c h t h o u g h Coarse food were sometimes eat b y u s a n d f r e q u e n t l y B y T h e Boats C r e w s . " Indeed, c r o w s w e r e almost a staple on some trips since they w e r e so p l e n t i f u l a n d then, as n o w , were not s h y .

Puget's comment suggests some social class distinctions in d i e t b u t this does not seem to have been a

general rule. In 1791, w h e n M a s t e r ' s M a t e M a n b y observed class d i s t i n c t i o n in the cuisine of Tahitian society, W . K a y e L a m b notes Puget s a y i n g that there was " n o such d i s c r i m i n a t i o n in the ships. . . . T h e y served Fresh P o r k to the Ships C o m p a n y w i t h Bread fruit C o c o a N u t s & P l a n tains, w h i c h w e c o n t i n u e d t o d o D u r i n g o u r Stay & afterwards at Sea w h i l e it lasted." A d i s t i n c t i o n that d i d exist w a s that, w h e n o n boat d u t y , the people mostly ate in their respective boats w h i l e the officers often d i n e d ashore, a system s i m i l a r to m e s s i n g arrangements aboard s h i p .

E d i b l e s were also p i c k e d f r o m fertile s o i l . C e l e r y , w h i t e o r d e a d nettle, s a m p h i r e , w i l d orache (fat hen), vetch, excellent w i l d peas a n d c o m m o n hedge m u s t a r d : their names d o not a l w a y s make them s o u n d a p p e t i z i n g a n d yet they " s e r v e d to r e l i s h o u r salt provisions o n w h i c h w i t h a v e r y scanty s u p p l y of fruit a l l h a n d s subsisted." C r e w s also received f r u i t , w i l d o n i o n a n d several other roots (roasted or sometimes m a d e into a k i d o f paste) a n d , o f course, f i s h (often dried) f r o m the native peoples.

T h e sea w a s the most b o u n t i f u l provider. A b u n d a n t supplies of s a l m o n c o u l d often be caught or b o u g h t . A t P o i n t G r e y some sturg e o n w e r e purchased, w e i g h i n g f r o m 14 to 200 p o u n d s each; hence, the n a m e " S t u r g e o n B a n k " for the shoals in that area, V a n c o u v e r reports eati n g s m a l l flatfish, elephant f i s h , sea b r e a m , sea p e r c h , a large sort of s c u l p i n , trout a n d a " s m a l l sort of eel extremely w e l l tasted of a y e l l o w i s h green c o l o r . " O n e o f the f e w deaths o n the v o y a g e occurred after a c r e w h a d eaten large quantities o f mussels. A l l w h o h a d partaken were v i o l e n t l y i l l ; seaman John Carter d i e d .

Of l i q u i d refreshment, there w a s the m u c h - m e n t i o n e d s p r u c e beer, w h i c h was b r e w e d at e v e r y o p p o r t u n i t y a n d there were a l w a y s double rations of g r o g on special occasions.

D u r i n g the s e c o n d season o n the coast, V a n c o u v e r began i s s u i n g an a d d i t i o n a l q u a n t i t y of spirits " t o be used at the discretion of the officer of each boat p a r t y " a n d a d d i t i o n a l q u a n tities of wheat a n d portable s o u p "sufficient to a f f o r d t h e m t w o hot meals e v e r y d a y d u r i n g their absence."

A regular d a y s a w the expedition party stop a r o u n d d u s k , h o p e f u l l y w i t h e n o u g h d a y l i g h t to erect their tents, l i g h t fires, c o o k meals, m a i n tain their arms a n d e q u i p m e n t a n d d r y out a n y w e t c l o t h i n g o r p o w d e r .

At night, sentries kept w a t c h against the u n k n o w n a n d for the safeguardi n g of boats a n d their moorage. There was little r e l a x i n g of procedures or d i s c i p l i n e in these circumstances, as the lives o f a l l m i g h t d e p e n d u p o n strict adherence to d u t y . D a m a g e to the boats or e q u i p m e n t , loss of p r o v i sions and s u p p l i e s , w h e t h e r by the elements or by the attentions of local inhabitants, c o u l d sabotage weeks of w o r k , as w e l l as cost their lives.

T i m e a n d its effective use w a s the essence of success. N o t o n l y loss of provisions b u t also lack of initiative i n f i n d i n g alternatives m i g h t m e a n the postponement of an e x p e d i t i o n a n d , therefore, a r e t u r n trip to the same site. In the short w o r k i n g season s u c h inefficient use of time c o u l d undermine the w h o l e summer's w o r k .

Expeditions often w e n t m a n y days

July 1992SHAVINGS 17

b e y o n d their " p r o v i s i o n e d t i m e " i n order to complete a particular area.

In this, V a n c o u v e r had the f u l l c o o p eration of the crews w h o , as he recorded i n his j o u r n a l , h a d become "wise by experience" and " h u s b a n d e d their p r o v i s i o n s . " A b o v e a l l activities, the business of charting the continental shore took precedence. M e a s u r i n g angles, rec o r d i n g observations, sketching n a v i gational aids, collecting a n d describi n g specimens: they d a y r e v o l v e d a r o u n d these priorities.

A t a l l prominent points, officers l a n d e d a n d took bearings of other distinctive l a n d m a r k s . W h e n bearings of particular points were p l o t t e d f r o m successive stations, their p o s i tions were established relative to each other a n d w i t h respect to the boat's track. Each compass bearing h a d to be corrected for the magnetic v a r i a t i o n f r o m true n o r t h . T h i s , i n t u r n , varied as latitude changed a n d h a d to be determined regularly by astron o m i c a l observation.

T h r o w i n g the lead line to s o u n d for sea bottom was an integral part of p r o d u c i n g safe charts as was sketchi n g headlands, bays a n d harbors a n d the general shape of the l a n d . Some instances are m e n t i o n e d of a 100fathom line not touching bottom; h a n d l i n g that line w o u l d have been d i f f i c u l t in a ship's boat.

A m a p so constructed w a s of little use w i t h o u t geographic reference; its v a l u e was n o w d i r e c t l y dependent on the accuracy of n a v i g a tion. In this V a n c o u v e r was almost fanatical. The captain a n d his officers a n d m i d s h i p m e n , rather than o n l y the master (navigator) a n d his mates, a l l took readings so as to p r o d u c e a better m e a n result a n d to p r o v i d e a r u n n i n g check.

L a t i t u d e w a s determined d a i l y f r o m the n o o n o b s e r v a t i o n of the s u n . L o n g i t u d e w a s rather more d i f ficult., it b e i n g f o u n d by the measurement of time between the m e r i d i a n of the p o s i t i o n a n d that of the p r i m e m e r i d i a n . V a n c o u v e r ' s prime m e r i d i a n was the l o n g i t u d e at G r e e n w i c h .

The task was to compare local time to Greenwich M e a n Time (GMT).

L o c a l time was c o m p u t e d b y a n astronomical observation. The chron o m e t e r , i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h its k n o w n rate o f change, gave G M T .

V a n c o u v e r h a d four o f the finest i n struments available. Their rate of g a i n or loss was w o r k e d out t h r o u g h accurate d a i l y observation of the chronometer, preferably on shore, over a p e r i o d a n d t h e n a p p l i e d to each readi n g of the chronometer to p r o d u c e the exact time of the observation a n d , thus, the exact r e c k o n i n g of G M T .

Pocket clocks c o u l d be used to time an observation of the altitude of the s u n or star, then c o m p a r e d to the chronometer. • O b s e r v a t o r y w o r k on shore w a s a c r u c i a l part of the s u r v e y w h i l e the boats were a w a y . F i x i n g the latitude a n d l o n g i t u d e of the place, f i n d i n g the v a r i a t i o n of the compass a n d det e r m i n i n g the rate of error of the chronometers enabled the latest surv e y results to be adjusted a n d incorporated into m a p p i n g already d o n e .

W o r k i n g aboard Discovery, L i e u t e n ant Baker c o m p i l e d master charts u s i n g data c o m i n g back f r o m the boat expeditions.

The v e r y first of those e x p e d i tions is astonishing in its variety of experiences. Three boats h a d set out

together (Vancouver insisted no surv e y i n g e x p e d i t i o n have less t h a n t w o boats, in case of accident or attack).

On the first d a y an o p p o r t u n i t y to h a u l the seine was taken w h e n fog h i n d e r e d their e x a m i n a t i o n . T h e y f i s h e d f r o m the b e a c h u n t i l t h e weather cleared, t h e n d i n e d . That e v e n i n g they were separated f r o m M r . Johnstone w h o h a d c o m m a n d o f Chatham's cutter. O n M a y 8, they a n s w e r e d the report of a s w i v e l (a s m a l l boat c a n n o n on a rotating m o u n t ) and were reunited.

The cutter a n d V a n c o u v e r ' s y a w l departed w h i l e Puget's l a u n c h stayed to replenish the casks a n d kegs w i t h water. W h i l e this w o r k was proceedi n g , the boat g r o u n d e d . Puget records that, t h o u g h e v e r y t h i n g was taken out, they c o u l d n ' t free her u n t i l the flood tide. He does not elaborate on w h o d i d what, but an effort to refloat several tons certainly w o u l d have b e n e f i t t e d f r o m the t w o o r three officers j o i n i n g their c r e w of 10. T i m e b e i n g of the essence, the same goes for the delay caused by u n l o a d i n g a vessel e q u i p p e d w i t h a w e e k ' s p r o v i s i o n s for a d o z e n m e n . N o t o n l y p r o v i s i o n s , but boat tackle, oars a n d r i g , large quantities of trade items, p l u s tents a n d arms w o u l d a l l have to be reloaded.

A f l o a t again, the p a r t y came u p o n a ghastly scene: h u m a n s k u l l s w i t h hair and flesh still attached and s k e w e r e d atop three poles. W h i l e quite h o r r i f i e d , Puget's assessment w a s v e r y fair. H e h a d heard o f s u c h p u n i s h m e n t i n E n g l a n d t o deter others f r o m c o m m i t t i n g the same c r i m e as the unfortunate a n d a c k n o w l e d g e d that, w i t h o u t k n o w i n g the cause or the circumstances, an accusation of barbarity alone w o u l d be unfair.

These m a y have been enemies of the state o r h a v e b r o k e n s o m e " l a w s u n d e r w h i c h they were g o v e r n e d . " C o m p l e t i n g a most extraordinary d a y , a resting place was not f o u n d u n t i l 2 a.m., after battling an ebb tide of five knots.

The next d a y (Wednesday, M a y 9 ) w i n d a n d r a i n prevented m o v e ment, w h i c h had the advantage of a l l o w i n g time for the firearms to be p u t in o r d e r as they h a d gotten wet the p r e v i o u s e v e n i n g . Puget also describes the trees, gooseberries a n d raspberries, bushes a n d b i r d s a n d the excellent s u p p l y of clams. Some p l e a s u r e c o u l d b e h a d f r o m their situation.

T h u r s d a y saw some friendly t r a d i n g for clams a n d f i s h ; crews also bartered for b o w s a n d a r r o w s . U n d e r w a y a g a i n , strong tide a n d w i n d forced a stop. U p o n r e s u m p t i o n at 3 p . m , the officers d i d a little beachw a l k i n g w h i l e the boats r o w e d . Tents w e r e p i t c h e d at a p l e a s a n t s p o t a r o u n d 8 p . m . Puget w a x e d poetic o n the f o l l o w i n g d a y as the "weather regained its u s u a l serenity . . . the c o u n t r y greatly beautified b y the a d v a n c e d state of s p r i n g . " O n S a t u r d a y the 12th, s e v e r a l stops were made to trade. At one of these, s o m e o f the w o m e n " w e r e s o l i c i t e d to g r a n t their favors b u t they refused I believe for w a n t of m o r e Secret O p p o r t u n i t y . " T w o miles further o n , the tents were p i t c h e d .

H e r e is another instance of the freed o m of the boats' crews as c o m p a r e d to their s h i p b o u n d mates. Puget offers no j u d g e m e n t on the men's beh a v i o r ; the c o n d u c t w a s not l i m i t e d t o l o w e r ranks. I n H a w a i i , w h e n one

18 SHAVINGS July 1992

of the g e n t l e m e n w a s left on shore as surety w h i l e the K i n g v i s i t e d Discovery, he seduced the " w i l l i n g " y o u n g Queens o f the o l d K i n g . O n e year later, a local taboo h a v i n g been p u t o n w o m e n r i d i n g i n canoes, V a n c o u v e r n o t e d that " s u c h of o u r female visitors as h a d been i n d u c e d to favor us w i t h their c o m p a n y h a d therefore been o b l i g e d to have recourse t o s w i m m i n g f o r that p u r pose." T h i s w a s no more than was officially tolerated i n general i n the N a v y , w h e r e w o m e n freely came o n b o a r d w h e n ships w e r e i n port.

The expedition continued w i t h some u n t o w a r d weather b u t genera l l y n o t h i n g m o r e o u t of the o r d i nary. T h i s d e s c r i p t i o n of it, as w i t h those of the journal-keepers a n d their biographers, tends to note the h i g h lights a n d exceptions rather than the regular w o r k i n g days.

O n e x p e d i t i o n , several dangerous situations w e r e d e f u s e d b y d i p l o m a c y as t r a d i n g nations were enc o u n t e r e d w h o h a d experience o f E u r o p e a n cultures. O n e of the most tense o c c u r r e d on the v e r y d a y that the entire s u r v e y was c o m p l e t e d . M r .

W h i d b e y ' s excursion party w a s w o r k i n g s o u t h w a r d t o meet u p w i t h M r .

Johnstone, w h o w o u l d b e c o m i n g n o r t h f r o m w h e r e h e h a d taken u p his s u r v e y f r o m the p r e v i o u s year's C a p e Decision. W h i d b e y had landed to take advantage of some fair weather to d r y clothes, clean boats a n d p u t their arms i n o r d e r .

H e d e p a r t e d w h e n some native v i s i t o r s , a t f i r s t f r i e n d l y , became t h r e a t e n i n g . T h e y a w l a n d cutter were f o l l o w e d but e v e n t u a l l y seemed to be alone a n d so stopped to d i n e .

W h i l e eating, the canoes appeared a g a i n , rather secretively W h i d b e y thought, so he gave orders to f i n i s h

q u i c k l y a n d embark. T h e y h a d n o sooner done so w h e n an a r m e d party emerged from the w o o d s at the d i n ner site. At the same instant, canoes came a r o u n d the p o i n t . W i t h exquisite t i m i n g , the boats c o m m a n d e d by Johnstone a n d Barrie appeared t w o miles distant - at w h i c h sight a l l of the natives d i s a p p e a r e d .

The t h r i l l b r o u g h t about by the k n o w l e d g e that, t h r o u g h this meeti n g , the s u r v e y w a s n o w complete s o m e w h a t o v e r s h a d o w e d the p r e v i ous tense moments. Three days later, relieved a n d overjoyed at the safe r e t u r n of the f o u r boats, V a n c o u v e r expressed the o p i n i o n that "the v e r y unjustifiable conduct of the traders on this coast" h a d been the cause of this h o s t i l i t y a n d that s u c h acts were i n c r e a s i n g to the p o i n t w h e r e the s u r v e y i n g m i s s i o n c o u l d not have succeeded the f o l l o w i n g year.

T h e voyage home lasted a little over a year. On the w a y , V a n c o u v e r t o o k possession of the D u t c h East I n d i a n Macassar, it was 1795 and great B r i t a i n w a s n o w at w a r . It h a d been almost f i v e years since V a n c o u v e r h a d b e g u n selecting his officers a n d t a k i n g i n m e n . H e h a d chosen w i t h care as the achievements of the past five years s h o w e d . Both d u r i n g the v o y a g e a n d afterwards, he had been q u i c k to praise their skills a n d energy. T h e officers, some o f w h o m Vancouver had k n o w n and w o r k e d c l o s e l y w i t h before, were talented a n d reliable. W h e n entrusted w i t h i n d e p e n d e n t c o m m a n d of the m a n y hazardous boat expeditions, V a n c o u v e r h a d complete faith i n them.

In their t u r n , the officers i n s p i r e d cooperation and trust f r o m the p e o p l e u n d e r them,. M a n y times the crews were praised for their diligence a n d perseverance in the most t r y i n g c i r -

cumstances a n d , it is p o i n t e d out, w i t h g o o d cheer. The m i d s h i p m e n seem to have been less c o m m e n d a b l e a n d t o V a n c o u v e r i n p a r t i c u l a r , they returned the c o m p l i m e n t . Of these " g e n t l e m e n , " o n l y y o u n g Sykes, w h o w a s the teenage s o n of V a n c o u v e r ' s agent i n L o n d o n , w o u l d d i n e a t his table. Theirs w a s a p o s i t i o n secured b y patronage a n d , t h o u g h i t eventua l l y p r o v e d his f o l l y , V a n c o u v e r d i d not let that direct his treatment of t h e m . T h e y were subject to his temper a n d d i s c i p l i n e m a n y times, yet he d i d not w i t h h o l d p r o m o t i o n f r o m them w h e n it was deserved. The success of some in their later careers suggests that exuberance of y o u t h m i g h t have contributed to the d i s agreements of this v o y a g e . T h e i r average age was 18.

The obedience of m e n to their officers a n d officers to their s u p e r i ors was a matter of persuasion a n d r e w a r d . A s t u d y of B r i t i s h society in the late 18th century shows a k i n d of " d i s o r d e r e d cohesion . . . w h i c h o w e d l i t t l e to the b o n d s of a u t h o r i t y . " Rodgers claims this exactly describes the N a v y w h i c h was recruited f r o m that society. Their m u t u a l need of each other w a s far m o r e effective than an exercise of force or authority.

Vancouver's singlemindedness of p u r p o s e h a d to i n c l u d e the health a n d welfare o f his c r e w o n a n equal f o o t i n g w i t h s u r v e y i n g the coast; w i t h o u t their s k i l l s a n d perseverance, the m i s s i o n w a s i m p o s s i b l e .

M a n y o f his actions illustrate this interdependence and h o w it was achieved. ing ian But no

V a n c o u v e r has been f o u n d w a n t by some; too strict a d i s c i p l i n a r is the charge most often leveled. his records of p u n i s h m e n t s are worse t h a n m a n y s h i p s of the

time. C o u l d he have achieved so m u c h w i t h a n u n h a p p y ship? I n sole charge a n d w i t h o u t i n s t r u c t i o n s for o v e r four years, V a n c o u v e r ' s pressing d e a d l i n e to complete the s u r v e y w i t h out m i s h a p at times surely w o r e his patience t h i n .

N o t a w e l l m a n , a n d often not a n easy person to be w i t h , he nevertheless t o o k pains to r e w a r d his s h i p s ' c o m p l e m e n t w h e n i t was w i t h i n his p o w e r t o d o so. Before l e a v i n g E n g l a n d , he secured a three-month a d vance for his seamen. U p o n r e t u r n , he w o r k e d tirelessly to secure p r i z e m o n e y of the Macassar i n w h i c h the entire c r e w s h a r e d . H e w r o t e the k i n d of letters a n d recommendations that were necessary to secure p r o m o tions for his officers and gentlemen, w i t h o u t d e l a y and bearing n o g r u d g e for past b e h a v i o r . H e h a d rotated positions constantly in order that his m i d s h i p m e n w o u l d have the p r o p e r sea time qualifications to sit for their lieutenancy examinations.

F o r a l l his c r e w , h e h a d m a i n tained the highest dietary a n d safety s t a n d a r d s . The Discovery lost just six m e n , three b y d r o w n i n g accidents a n d one each to disease, p o i s o n i n g a n d s u i c i d e . T h i s w a s about onet h i r d the n o r m a l mortality rate at the time. Chatham lost none. A n d , f o r the m e n w h o h a d assisted w h a t w a s t o b e his life's finest achievement, r e g a r d less of r a n k , V a n c o u v e r celebrated their w o r t h b y p l a c i n g their names o n the coast they a l l e x p l o r e d .

Besides her pursuit of history, Jill King, a native of New Zealand, is an accomplished musician and singer of chanties and sea ballads. She has performed at concerts, festivals and museums all around the world.