The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 49 Summer 2024 by The Cocktail Lovers

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM SUMMER 2024

ISSUE 49

ISSN 2052-059X

Reasons to drink in colour

Making waves

Kenya connections

PAGE 18

PAGE 30

PAGE 42

From gin and vodka to wine and beer – the new hues of brands

The people to know and why they’re raising the bar

An insider’s guide to the top drinking spots in Kenya

Celebrating people of colour in the drinks world

WELCOME

hello cocktail lover! I remember a talk I was giving about diversity in the industry. It was at the Athens Bar Show and must have been, ooh, around 2015 or thereabouts. While I was talking, I looked around and realised that I was the only Black person, not only in the room but attending the entire festival. And I had to make a point of the fact. The funny thing was, I almost didn’t notice. I was – still am to some extent – so used to it. Ian Burrell (p. 34), Sly Augustin (p. 39) and I used to have a good old chuckle if we were at an event together – the three of us in one place! At the same time! It really was quite the occasion! Anyway, I digress. The reason I brought it up, the reason why I highlighted it during my seminar was because I was making a point about the dearth of minorities to everyone in attendance. I wanted them to be aware of it. Fast forward to 2024 and, as they should, things have got much better. In addition to Ian, Sly and myself, you’re likely to see a few other faces when you’re out and about on the circuit. But honestly? The US has always been ahead of the game on this front and even somewhere like London, one of the most diverse cities in the UK, I still do a mental double-take when I see a Black or Asian person behind the bar in the central, main bars, let alone in a five-star hotel. Does representation matter? You bet it does. Not just with me, obvs, but for brands and the all-important consumer spend. According to Vicky Ilankovan, executive director at Equal Measures (p. 22), studies from Deloitte, Harvard, Forbes and many more besides show that if you have diversity in the workplace it increases profits by 33%. And who’s going to argue with that?

, MS S

At my school we were a pretty mixed bunch in terms of the colours of our skin. A lot of backgrounds and cultures were represented. We were united, though, with a London accent and the similar values we learned in our homes. Generally we got on pretty well, apart from an odd, stupid racist (I’ve still got a scar to remind me of one particular idiot). I could be accused of being overly simplistic but that was just the norm in our part of the world. Not just among us kids but most of the adults too. The values that united families who had been there for generations and new arrivals from overseas were simple. Working hard, being proud of your home and wanting a better future for your children. Yes, there were differences that were commented on, but in a way that was interested not offensive. The new Asian members of the local bowls club cooked a traditional Indian meal for the long-standing members. My mother, herself a member, loved it. I’m not naive enough to think everything is sweetness and light. Not least in the drinks world. That’s why we first took a look at the issue of colour in this magazine back in 2017. A lot has happened since then. Some good, some not. That’s why we wanted to revisit it. This issue is a celebration of people of colour, but some observations also make for difficult and, frankly, appalling reading. It’s important though. Very important. And in our small way we want to be a positive part of the conversation.

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contents 08 Amuse Bouche

News, views, reviews, interviews and how-tos, including three books by people of colour, five winning ways with pineapples, dates for your diary and food and drink recipes to inspire

11 reasons to drink in colour Our pick of brilliant Black-owned drinks brands

22 In the hotseat

Talking diversity and inclusion with Vicky Ilkanoven, Equal Measures

24 Wine it up

Red, white, orange, blue – and black! Wines to try now

in 28 Trailblazers their own right

Tamika Hall charts the importance of African Americans in cocktail culture

30 Making waves

People to know, faces to watch. By Yolanda Evans

38 Dark stars

Minority-owned bars in majority spaces. By Priyanka Blah

42 Black to the future

Industry veteran Colin Asare-Appiah on the past, present and future of representation in the drinks business

45 Unsung heroes

Let’s hear it for the some of the people who make things tick behind the scenes

50 Cultural connections

Jo Last shares her story of finding her identity while working in drinks

52 The Cocktail Girl & Guy She’s in Handshake in Mexico City while he’s at Mirror Bar in Bratislava

34 Spreading the word

Ian Burrell is on a mission: to share the spirit of Black history through rum

intelligence/ 54 Liquid Take 3 ingredients

With Reuben Clarke and Shreya Patel

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Issue 49 Summer 2024 Editors Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Creative director Scott Bentley – Bentley Creative Copy editing Laura Hill Stephanie Jones Cover photography Rob Lawson Model June Lawrence Contributors Priyanka Blah, Reuben Clarke, Yolanda Evans, Jack Hall, Tamika Hall, Jo Last, Brian K Owango, Shreya Patel, Gabrielle Nicole Pharms, Regan Ross

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com

36 Open your palate to fresh perspectives

Gabrielle Nicole Pharms on women of colour in the world of whisk(e)y

Mains & Martinis

Kenya Connections

Parting Shot

Flavours of Africa, Sri Lanka and Jamaica via Japan – three London restaurants that we’re loving this season

Raising the (cocktail) stakes at Gaucho restaurants

Brian K Owango guides us through the top drinking spots in Kenya

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Find us:

TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information. The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

CONTRIBUTORS

YOLANDA EVANS

PRIYANKA BLAH

BRIAN K OWANGO

Yolanda is an award-winning freelance writer with more than 18 years of experience covering dining, cocktails, travel, and lifestyle. She’s based in Berlin and her work has appeared in The Smithsonian, CNN, Travel + Leisure, Architectural Digest, Food & Wine, Afar, Here Magazine, Washington Post, Imbibe, Vinepair, Shondaland, Food 52, Punch, Wine Enthusiast, Lonely Planet, Thrillist to name a few.

A regular contributor to The Cocktail Lovers magazine, Priyanka is affectionately known as ‘Blah’. She’s the founder of the popular cocktail and spirits website, The Dram Attic, a platform she set up to shine a light on the movers and shakers of the cocktail world. Based in India, she is a regular judge at international cocktail competitions and considered one of the most relevant voices championing the South Asian bar industry.

Brian started his hospitality journey in the UK in the late 90s and brought his passion and knowledge to Kenya in late 2003. Known as the Afrikan Mixologist Maker, he is regarded as Kenya’s pioneer of contemporary mixology in the region and is the founder of the Jumuiyai Cocktail Festival, the Bahari Bar School, the real Nairobi Cocktail Week and Kenya’s first Capoeira School. He also chairs the World’s 50 Best Bars in East Africa.

In this issue: Priyanka looks at influential bars owned by people of colour.

In this issue: Brian guides us around the best drinking spots in Nairobi and beyond.

Dark stars: 38

Making waves: page 30

In this issue: From educators to entrepreneurs – Yolanda on some of the people of colour everyone needs to know.

Kenya connections: page 58

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GABRIELLE NICOLE PHARMS

Open your palate to fresh perspectives: page 36

Texas-based writer Gabrielle has contributed to publications such as Travel + Leisure, Bourbon Plus, Food + Wine, Rolling Stone and more. She is currently a contributing editor for American Whiskey Magazine. Gabrielle won the 2022 IWSC Emerging Talent in Spirits Communication and was twice nominated for a Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best Cocktail & Spirits Writing. In this issue: Gabrielle shines a light on Black women in the world of whisk(e)y.

APERItiVO

Opening up the palate for the spirited stories ahead… PAG E 1 4

PAG E 1 6

PAG E 1 8

PAG E 2 4

SIX QUESTIONS FOR…

FIVE WAYS WITH PINEAPPLE

ELEVEN REASONS TO DRINK IN COLOUR

WINE IT UP

Lorraine Copes, CEO and founder of Be Inclusive Hospitality

Black and Brown-owned brands you should be drinking right now

From infusing in rum and creating a pineapple leather, to making a delicious tepache

PAG E 9

THINGS THAT MAKE US GO ‘OOH!’

Grace Ubawuchi with her seductive frozen indulgences, Xin & Zoltaire

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Red, white, rosé, orange and even blue, the world of wine is looking even more colourful with the new wave of makers

NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS & HOW-TOS

The PLACE Bar Mordecai

Destination Toronto for Bar Mordecai, the Wes Andersoninspired bar/nightclub Christina Viera co-owns and runs like an absolute boss. She’s got the measure down pat – it’s serious but in a fun way, with karaoke rooms, an action-packed events programme, crowd-pullers like all-you-can-eat spaghetti nights, top-notch wine and food lists, plus mighty fine cocktails for those with a taste for the good stuff. For more Black-owned bars, see p. 38. barmordecai.com

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APERITIVO

book club

Three books with different perspectives on drinking culture

CHECK THIS! LISTEN

Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails

The Ideal Bartender

Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs & Juice: Cocktails From Two Centuries of African American cookbooks

By Tom Bullock

By Shannon Mustipher

This isn’t kitsch tiki, it’s refined tiki. It’s where award-winning writer, spirits educator, cocktail consultant and rum brand owner Shannon Mustipher shows off the passion and skills that have earned her numerous awards and recognition. The recipes are easy to follow and exciting to taste with classic tiki drinks, as well as contributions from fellow tiki heads including Brother Cleve and Dan Bancroft.

We can’t talk about people of colour in drinks without mentioning Tom Bullock, the first African American to have his cocktail recipes immortalised in print. Published in 1917, The Ideal Bartender came with an introduction written by George Herbert Walker, the grandfather of former US president George HW Bush. The book contains recipes for 173 of Bullock’s most popular cocktails, including the Mint Julep, Bullock’s most famous drink.

By Toni Tipton-Martin

Award-winning author Toni Tipton-Martin draws on her years of experience collecting, writing and researching Black cookbooks to shed light on the evolution of African Amercian drinking culture. Juke Joints follows the same theme and gambols through 200 years of Black mixology, ticking off ancestral traditions through to modern classics and via an array of fascinating recipes.

THINGS THAT MAKE US GO ‘OOH!’ Warning: you might want to eat these little beauties in private – just in case you have an involuntary, ahem, When Harry Met Sally moment (if you know, you know). Grace Ubawuchi calls her Xin and Voltaire sorbets “sensorial frozen indulgences” and she’s not wrong. With four varieties including mezcal, champagne and raspberry, and single malt whisky, amaretto and pear, they’re chic, tasty and utterly delicious. xinandvoltaire.com

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Beats Bars & Bourbon Boyz, @beatsbarsandbourbon_ boyz Soul Palate, @soulpalatepod Black & Sober, @blacksoberpod

READ

DRiNK Magazine Asia, drinkmagazine.asia

@thehuesociety @chocolate.citys.best

APERITIVO

THE PEOPLE LP O’BRIEN

For anyone who doubts that working in the drinks space can be a mega career choice, consider the rise and rise of LP O’Brien. Since making her way into the industry in 2014, the artiste formerly known as Lauren Paylor has worked as a brand ambassador, beverage director and R&D production chef; co-founded Focus on Health, a health and wellness company; and is a shareholder in canned drinks brand Siponey Spritz Co, all while heading up her other projects, Cocktails + Comedy and Bodega Culture. As the winner of the inaugural Netflix reality series Drink Masters, she’s gained even more prominence, going on to curate beverage programmes for the Emmys, Ebony magazine and more. For more people of influence, see p. 30

DID YOU KNOW?

CREATE A STIR! The Splendid Sidecar

Method: Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Nick & Nora or coupe glass. Created by Giuseppe Gonzalez

Method: Shake ingredients over ice and double-strain into a chilled coupe glass. Created by Sullivan Doh, D’Ussé Brand Ambassador

1oz Hennessy V.S.O.P 1oz aloe liqueur 1oz freshly squeezed lemon juice 1oz jasmine-infused Cocchi Americano

The Trinidad Sour

Method: Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled coupe or Martini glass. Created by Alexis Brown, Moët Hennessy Ambassador USA

1½ parts D’Ussé Liqueur 1 part orange liqueur ½ part freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 bar spoon orange blossom water

1½oz Angostura aromatic bitters 1oz orgeat ¾oz freshly squeezed lemon juice ½oz rye whiskey

Revive & Refresh

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After the Revolution, saloonkeeping was one of the few occupations open to free Black people in America, and any part of the country with a significant free Black population had Black-owned saloons to cater to it. David Wondrich, bittersoutherner.com/ a-history-of-black-bartenders

delicious cocktails ... in a paper bottle

#LessWasteMoreTaste around 12 popular seasonal ﬂavours

ambient storage, long shelf-life

bartender strength cocktails

ideal for on-trade & retail

www.WorldofZing.com

www.Amazon.com

APERITIVO

The bottle

Equiano Rum

You can simply sit back and allow the sublime taste of Equiano Rum to seduce your palate, or dig deeper into the person who inspired it. We say, do both. In a nutshell, Olaudah Equiano was a former slave turned writer, freedom fighter, entrepreneur and one of the first African authors to have his works published. Equiano the liquid is his life’s journey in a bottle. Blending rums from Africa and the Caribbean, it's the first to be endorsed by Global Rum Ambassador Ian Burrell (p. 34). equianorum.com For more Black-owned brands, see p. 18

LAMB & APRICOT, TAMARIND PIRI-PIRI GLAZED SOSATIES Ingredients 1 kg diced lamb, cut into 4-5cm dices, trimming excess fat and removing sinew (loin or rump) 200g dried apricots 2 Roscoff onions (cut into large 4-5cm dices) For the marinade 1 onion 50ml rapeseed oil 1 clove garlic finely chopped 10g ginger finely chopped 10g apricot jam 10g tamarind paste 10g port vinegar 1 tsp madras curry powder 1 red chili finely chopped 1 tsp cumin powder 1 tsp salt Method: In a medium pan add onion and sweat until it starts to become translucent but doesn’t colour. Add the rest of the ingredients and gently cook for a minute or two before removing from heat and allow to cool. Mix the cooled marinade with the lamb and cover (for best results marinate 24 hours before). Assemble skewers by

putting apricot followed by diced onion, then diced lamb. You want to repeat this two or three times depending on the size of the skewers. Once skewered, place in the fridge until ready to cook For the glaze 400ml Amarula African Gin 100g green chili 10ml lemon juice 10g garlic powder 10g onion powder 10g smoked paprika 1 bay leaf 150g wild honey 5g salt Method In a medium pan add Amarula African Gin, green chili juice, bay leaves and wild honey and reduce by half. Once reduced add garlic, onion and smoked paprika powder and bring to boil. Finish with lemon juice and salt. Use the glaze to brush skewers on the BBQ or pan while cooking. Cook on a grill/bbq constantly brushing with the glaze, Keep turning and glazing for 4 mins till golden then remove.

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APERITIVO

Six QUESTIONS for…

LORRAINE COPES Founder & CEO of Be Inclusive Hospitality

one

When and why did you set up Be Inclusive Hospitality? Be Inclusive Hospitality (BIH) was founded in 2020 due to the lack of representation of people of colour in leadership positions and the supply chain. We encourage action through research, empower our community with funded professional development programmes, and provide consultancy services to businesses committed to fostering inclusion and equity. I have worked in the sector for 22 years and know the industry well. I love it, but with the representation of people of colour at 18%, we need to do better, and I hope to support this progress.

TWO

How, if at all, has BIH changed in the few years since it was founded? We have been consistent with our approach, and each year, our impact has been greater due to business, team and partnerships growth. We launched during the pandemic, so initially, many of our initiatives and services were

online. However, we are now very much an in-person community organisation.

Three

What’s the biggest change that you’ve seen in the industry in the past few years? Nothing can top the aftermath of the pandemic. Businesses are reducing their capacity compared to pre-2020, which has had an adverse effect on revenue and their ability to invest in important areas, including people. That said, this industry is incredibly agile and has adapted, adjusted and continues to push forward.

four

Tell us about some of the ways BIH has impacted the Black and Brown communities. We have supported more than 2,000 people across the industry through mentorship programmes, delivering over 600 hours of mentorship to date. We have supported professional development through funding, qualifications, courses, networking opportunities and an awards ceremony. Throughout my career, I have often

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felt lonely being ‘the only one’. Our community is designed to build social capital and pull the levers that support people of colour to succeed in their respective careers. We are doing this year on year, and I hope to continue expanding our support through funding, collaboration and sponsorships.

five

What are you most proud of? Continuously, we take pride in the community we have built over the past four years, comprising 700+ community members, 120 ambassadors, 100 mentors and well over 60 partners. Our community consists of individuals and businesses, all united by our shared values and the common goal of fostering a more inclusive and equitable hospitality industry.

six

What are your biggest achievements to date? Definitely the community growth and development; 65% of people who have accessed our development programmes have gone on to achieve notable personal and professional goals. bihospitality.co.uk

ON THE COVER... Turning on the glamour at The Beaufort Bar

PLUS An exclusive interview with Christina Hendricks A peak behind the scenes at Gerry’s Wines & Spirits And 25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season

ISSUE 19

Take your seat at the plushest cinemas in town

The Best of British Flying the flag for the best British cocktail ingredients

capital come out to celebrate our first birthday edition

ISSN 2052 0603

SPRING 2016

Martinis at the movies

The London Issue The finest bartenders in the

ISSUE 25

AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

Shake it baby! How to mix things up in style

+25

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON.

ISSUE 22

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WINTER 2017

THE

ISSUE

THE COLOUR ISSUE

SHADES OF DISTINCTION

The people, the places, the drinks

IN BOTTLES, PEOPLE AND DRINKS

With Dale DeGroff / Philip Duff / Simon Ford / Lynnette Marrero / Jack McGarry / Jim Meehan / Ivy Mix / Sean Muldoon / gaz regan / Julie Reiner / Audrey Saunders / Charlotte Voisey / David Wondrich / Naren Young and many more

reasons to brighten + up25 the season

CATCH UP!

ISSN 2052-059X

Every single back issue of The Cocktail Lovers magazine is available on digital. To get any issue simply scan the QR code or visit issuu.com/thecocktaillovers ISSUE 23

SPRING 2017

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RAYS YOUR GLASSES Summer special

FLIGHTS OF FANCY Cocktails in the sky

T IS FOR TEQUILA A guide to Mexico’s finest export

FRESH THINKING For modern drinking

HOW DO YOU TAKE YOURS? Diving into the world of drinks experiences

O C

With some of the brightest, most inspiring minds in the biz…

the Cocktail + onTalesTourof Edinburgh Guide

Soaking up t

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ISSUE 18

WINTER 2016

To Boldly Go!

The future of drinks 2016: A cocktail odyssey Trends to watch on earth and beyond

Space invader

A vessel that is truly out of this world

+ What Alex and Simone did next

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SUMMER 2017

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FIVE WAYS WITH

Pineapple Rum 1 ripe pineapple – peeled,

3 cups chopped pineapple (about 1 medium pineapple) 2-3tbsp honey 1tbsp orange juice 1tsp orange zest Method: Place all the ingredients in a blender and purée until smooth. Line a 33x45cm baking pan with a silicone baking mat; pour in the mixture, using a silicone spatula to smooth it out. Bake at about 100°C/200°F for 3–4 hours or until the surface is dry and no longer sticky. Let it cool completely, then carefully peel off from the baking mat. Cut into strips and roll in parchment paper. Keep in an airtight container or jar for up to one week. Use to garnish.

cored and cut into chunks 75cl bottle gold rum Method: Place the pineapple chunks in a large glass container. Pour in the rum, covering the fruit completely. Cover and store on a cool, dark shelf, stirring and tasting once a day, until the rum reaches the desired flavour – infuse for at least one week but preferably two. Strain out the pineapple before serving.

Pineapple soda

Tepache

Pineapple shrub 150g fresh pineapple

150g caster sugar 100ml white balsamic vinegar Method: Chop the pineapple into small pieces, then stir together with the sugar and vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside at room temperature for two days to macerate, stirring occasionally until all the sugar is dissolved. Strain, then transfer the shrub into a sterilised bottle and store in the fridge. 16 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 49

Method: Combine the water and brown sugar in a pot or large jar. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Place the pineapple peel into the pot and add the cinnamon stick. Add the core, whole or in chunks, to the pot and stir. Cover with a dish towel, and set aside on the kitchen counter at room temperature – the towel will keep out any particles while allowing air to reach the mixture, to ensure a successful fermentation. After 24–36 hours, check your tepache. If you see a bit of frothy white foam on the surface of the water, it’s fermenting. You can drink it as is, or let it continue to brew for another day or so. If you do not see any white froth, cover the pot again and check it after another 24 hours; the time necessary for fermentation will vary according to the room temperature, ripeness of the pineapple, and other factors. Once your tepache has reached the desired level of fermentation, strain out and discard all the solids. Transfer the liquid to a pitcher and refrigerate for up to one week.

S H U T TE R STOC K

4½ cups water ½ cup brown sugar 1 ripe fresh pineapple, washed, peeled and sliced (reserve peel and core) 1 cinnamon stick

70g pineapple chunks 50g sugar 70ml water 1/8 jalapeño pepper (optional for a spicy kick) 180ml sparkling water Method: First make a pineapple syrup. Gather the pineapple, sugar, water and jalapeño (if using) in a small pot and bring to a boil. Allow to simmer for up to 15 minutes. The pineapple should be loose in texture and paler in colour. Set aside to cool, then strain through a colander (or a cheesecloth for a finer syrup). The syrup can be stored in a sealed container in the fridge for up to one month. To make the pineapple soda, pour 50-80ml syrup into a glass with ice, then top with the sparkling water.

Pineapple leather

APERITIVO

Notable Nibbles

PURELY PLANTAIN CHIPS Plantain chips are to African, Caribbean and Central and South American cultures what plain old potato crisps are to everyone else. And boy do they do a good job of keeping your drinks company. We love Purely, not just for its selection of extremely delicious kettle-cooked plantain chips, lightly dusted with sea salt – we’ll eat our hats if you can stop at one – because it’s a passionate brand with a social conscience. welovepurely.com

Diary DATES

The calendar hots up over the summer, with plenty of occasions to raise a glass (or two)

FEEL THE HEAT…

TR A D E E V E NT S JULY

1st–2nd: Imbibe Live, London 21st-26th: Tales of the Cocktail, New Orleans 25th: Spirited Awards Ceremony, New Orleans

CO N SU M E R E V E NT S & D R I N K S DAYS

J EN NI F ER-S C H M I DT

JULY

10th: National Piña Colada Day 11th: National Mojito Day 11th–13th: Cocktails in the City, London 11th–14th: Birmingham Cocktail Weekend 12th: Michelada Day 13th: World Rum Day 14th: National Grand Marnier Day 19th: National Daiquiri Day 24th: National Tequila Day 27th: National Scotch Day 31st: Black Tot Day AUGUST

30th: National Mai Tai Day

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We’ve never met a hot sauce that an Asian, Korean or Caribbean dish didn’t like. That said, your glass can feel the benefit too. Add a touch to a Michelada, Margarita or even a Paloma. Don’t go too heavy mind. Build up the heat slowly and to your personal palate. What to try? Truff – hot sauce with a hint of truffle – is Oprah’s go-to brand. truff.com

ELEVEN reasons …to drink in colour

ONE

REVIVING TRADITION

Jackie Summers’ Sorel is so much more than a liqueur, it’s Black history in a bottle. Based on the flavours enjoyed for generations, as tea for children and in rum punch for adults, his modern take on this Caribbean classic is a winning mix of hibiscus and sunshine spices including ginger, nutmeg and clove. sorelofficial.com

Telling tales

Everything about Alan Henderson’s products gives us the feels, from the fine spirits to the beautiful packaging honouring Black people in drinking history we should all know about. Learn about Birdie Brown and Tom Bullock, the inspiration behind the first four products, by hitting up the website. hendersonspiritsgroup.com

Travelling through taste With its big hits of Himalayan juniper, super-tangy lime and locally sourced botanicals, just one sip of this gin transports you to India, birthplace of the G&T and Hapusa Himalayan Dry Gin. naospirits.com

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APERITIVO

FO UR

Hitting the sweet spot

Five

Forget the usual wheat, barley and potatoes that form the base of your average vodka, Vusa is made with African sugarcane, straight from the heart of KwaZulu Natal. vusavodka.com

DRINKING WITH SOUL Grown Folks make hard seltzers and beer with soul food flavours in mind. The unapologetically sweet and fruit-forward blends include Peach Cobbler, Ambrosia and Key Lime. drinkgrownfolks.com

CREATING HISTORY

Shochu: more than 500 years of expertise, brought bang-up-to-date for mixing courtesy of mastermind Shingo Gokan working with three of the top artisanal distilleries in Japan. thesgshochu.com

MASHING UP CULTURES

Yoghurt, turmeric, pomegranate, black cumin and ghee – authentic Punjabi lassi vibes distilled and captured in a very cool British/Indian gin. crazyco.uk 19 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 49

APERITIVO

Uniting experience Take a healthy measure of Jamaican roots, add a liberal sprinkling of East African flavours and blend with Scottish distilling heritage. That’s the recipe used by the folk at Matugga Rum – and what makes it such a success. matuggarum.com

NINE EUA N MYL E S

Digging up roots

TEN CELEBRATING JOIE DE VIVRE

Inspired by his love of the Josephine Baker cocktail and its namesake, the world’s first Black female superstar, Ken Gilbert’s Sephina uses French cognac and fortified wine to create a luscious, very spirited drink. sephinaspirits.com

Keeping it low

Based on the sparkling Nigerian classic, the Chapman, this complex non-alcoholic blend is bringing fruity, refreshing flavours to an appreciative new audience. chapmansoflondon.com

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Anthony Adedipe and his wife Helena look to traditional African recipes and brewing techniques for the DNA of their products. And it’s worked. Their beers are a hit with Michelin-starred restaurants. ekobrewery.com

PODCAST Join us as we share what we’re drinking, where we’re going, products we’re trying, the drinks books we’re reading and all manner of cocktail-loving goodness. Plus, we catch up with our favourite movers and shakers in the cocktail world.

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B E T H C R O C K AT T

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

IN THE

H TSEAT

Vicky Ilankovan, Executive Director, Equal Measures on how and why the business is on a mission to create a more diverse and inclusive industry

How did Equal Measures begin? Equal Measures was set up in 2020 by Deano Moncrieffe, an amazing man who’s been in the drinks industry for the past 20 years. As a Black man from Birmingham, he experienced and witnessed a huge amount of prejudice in the hospitality industry. Despite the fact it’s the most diverse industry in the UK, there’s a very thick glass ceiling above mid-management, across all aspects of hospitality. He decided he wanted to create a platform to shine a light on that and the inequity in the industry and see what he could do to change it.

approach. We developed a suite of services ranging from introductory level to intermediate, HR and management procedures, looking at how we can support businesses to improve EDI in house, but also in their trade and customers. As part of that, we put together an EDI drinks toolkit, which has policy templates, onboarding manuals and workshops companies can do with their teams – basically a response to people saying to me, “Vicky, I really want to do our EDI journey but I don’t know where to start.”

And how has it evolved in the past four years? When it first started, Equal Measures was specifically looking at ethnicity. We were supporting anyone from Black, Asian and minority ethnic backgrounds working in hospitality. Since then, I’m delighted to say it’s evolved and is now proudly intersectional, so we support anyone who has faced systemic barriers to their career progression due to bias around their identities. So far, we support people who are Black, Asian and minority ethnic, as well as gender queer, queer and neurodivergent.

When did you get on board? I was an Equal Measures beneficiary in its original uptake. Then I took on day-to-day running of the business as marketing and project manager, and now I’m executive director with many, many hats.

Describe some of the ways that you help businesses. The idea is we’re creating a blueprint for what our industry and society can be by creating a melting pot of passionate, highly skilled people in our industry, and helping them get where they need to go. Two years ago we introduced our equity, diversity and inclusion (EDI) services. There have been some EDI services previously, but nothing that looked specifically around the drinks and hospitality spaces in the UK and nothing intersectional in its

Which of those hats fits you best? All of them! I’m very good at juggling, in terms of work. I guess at my core, I’m very strategic, very analytical. I have a 360 approach to things but at the same time, I’m very people-centric. I’m a community builder and a firm believer in creating safe places for everyone so they can feel seen, heard and able to be themselves. What have you learned about yourself since working with Equal Measures? It’s been a big journey of self-knowledge and discovery in my work life and also on the personal side. Something I’ve learned is that I don’t need to try and fit into a box that was designed to restrict me. The mould that’s out there was never made with me in mind, so why should I cut off parts of myself to try and fit in it? Why would I be smaller

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than I am? So that’s why you’ll see me at events dressed in brightly coloured, clashing patterns, dad dancing and grinning from ear-to-ear, because that’s me, and Equal Measures has taught me that that’s okay. And what have you learned about the industry? I’ve learned just how diverse it is. I think 17% of UK hospitality workers are from

ASK THE EXPERTS

Black, Asian and minority ethnic backgrounds. That’s more than any other industry in the UK. In London specifically, that figure rises to 43%. That said, that diversity is at the lower levels and that’s something we need to change. Give us a stat that might surprise us. Since Covid and Brexit, people from Black and Asian minority ethnic backgrounds lost their jobs 26 times more than white workers. What do you think stops people of colour entering the bar space rather than the lower-level hospitality space?

who presents as queer working behind the bar, I feel comfortable going in. A lot of the time when people are looking at the bar as somewhere to work, they’ll be thinking the same thing: who’s sitting at the bar, who’s working there, is it a safe place for me to come in? Sadly, they may not feel accepted or able to progress in their careers, or feel like they can be themselves. What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced in the business and how have you confronted them? It’s been really sad to see that one of our biggest challenges is funding. When we

the first time and hopefully take the pressure off us constantly trying to find those funds. What are you and the team most proud of? How quickly and how well we’ve grown while staying true to who we are. Last year, our beneficiary pool increased by 288%. For such a minuscule team with limited resources, we’re really proud of that. It’s not just about the increase in beneficiary numbers but the fact we have maintained the support level and the quality that we have provided. Nearly 90% of our Equal Measures beneficiaries – who we call EMbers – report improved career progression within nine months of being with us. And they stay with us and they want to give back. For me, that’s the meaning of true community. I’m so proud of our EMbers, they’re amazing. Any other highlights you’d like to share? Last April, we piloted our first Forming Foundations programme funded by Johnnie Walker. It’s a three-day touring

U N S P LA S H / OU RWH IS K Y FOU N DATI ON

Why should I cut off parts of myself to try and fit in? Why should I be smaller than I am?

There’s a culture of affinity bias, especially in the higher-end bars where people don’t feel like they can progress and often, they’re treated badly. I’m constantly getting reports from people about white European people at the top of the bar team calling the people of colour working below them slaves. It’s very common, unfortunately. It’s not dissimilar for me as a consumer. If I see someone of colour or

started in 2020, the interest and support from the industry was huge, notably because of Black Lives Matter – everyone wanted to be part of it. I’m sorry to say that as the news cycle has changed, we’re seeing that support drop off. That’s why we became a CIC [Community Interest Company – a business that exists to benefit the community rather than shareholders], which will allow us to access grants for

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course, which gives the next generation of diverse hospitality superstars a start in the industry. We go to areas with higher percentages of the demographics we support and lower employment and we provide fully funded WSET Level 1 in Spirits, vocational training, cocktail masterclasses with our brand partners, talks from industry experts and visits to local venues to see different styles of service. After they get the learning, knowledge and confidence, we pair them up with our brand and operator partners in that area to give them a trial shift. When they’re in the industry, we can support them through their progression and ensure that they don’t have any of the barriers that people in our main programme and myself have had. Essentially, we’re ensuring that within three to five years, we’re going to see much more highly skilled, diverse talent in higher positions within the industry. The pilot went exceptionally well and we’re looking to take the programme around the country going forward. equalmeasuresuk.org

WINE IT UP

Meet the brands putting Black-owned wines on the map

1. MCBRIDE SISTERS

One brand created by two sisters. The result? Three highly prized wine collections: McBride Sisters Collection, Black Girl Magic Wines and SHE CAN Wines and spritzers. mcbridesisters.com

2. THEOPOLIS VINEYARDS

Not for nothing is Theodora Lee known as Theo-patra, Queen of the Vineyards. The wines she produces from her small lot vineyard in California have won her a slew of awards. theopolisvineyards.com

Idris Elba – yes that Idris Elba – and partner in wine David Farber have curated a selection of fine, still and sparkling wines from a family owned estate in Provence. Available to drink in their London gastrobar or order to enjoy at home. portenoir.co.uk

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4. MAISON NOIR WINES

Once an award-winning sommelier, André Hueston Mack’s Maison Noir label is equally admired for its fine wines and T-shirts as much as its street-style inspired designs. maisonnoirwines.com

G U T T ER C R ED I TS

3. PORTE NOIR

APERITIVO 6. FREE RANGE FLOWER WINERY

Aaliyah Nitoto draws on her background in biology, herbalism and nutrition in her organic wines, all made from locally sourced flowers rather than grapes. freerangeflower winery.com

7. AMOUR GENÈVE WINE

Blue was the favourite colour of Freddie F. Salinès’ father, who inspired his ‘truly natural, organic’ blue wine. amourbluforever. com

5. WHINYARD ROCKS

Want natural? Try the low input wines made with grapes grown and hand-harvested by husband and wife team Susan and James in their vineyard in Wales. whinyardrocks.com

8. EPICUREAN WINE

9. CARMEN STEVENS WINES

Epicurean by name, epicurean by nature, these wine – created by four friends – are made with wines sourced from some of the best vineyards in the Western Cape of South Africa. epicureanwine.co.za

Graduating as the first Black South African to study winemaking in SA, CS Wines is the first 100% Blackowned winery in the country. cswines.co.za

10. BROWN ESTATE

Deneen, David and Coral Brown took over their parents’ vineyard in 1995 and have been making first-class wines ever since. The Zinfandel comes highly recommended brownestate.com

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HOUSE OF HISTORY How the House of Angostura and its iconic bitters have been at the heart of classic mixed drinks for 200 years – a guide in nine cocktails

sugar, beautifully balanced with Angostura aromatic bitters.

TWO MARTINIS AND A MANHATTAN – ENTER ANGOSTURA ORANGE AND COCOA BITTERS

PINK GIN – THE FIRST ANGOSTURA COCKTAIL

Around the time the reputation of Angostura aromatic bitters was growing, the British Royal Navy hit on a rather clever idea. Having come across the bitters in the Caribbean they were prescribed as a treatment for sea sickness. Better still, by mixing them with their gin ration officers soon discovered

that the tincture was not only medicinally highly effective but equally enjoyable as a drink in its own right. With its attractive pink hue and subtle appeal, the drink went on to be enjoyed by the discerning classes ashore too. The first Angostura cocktail was born – the Pink Gin. And this was just the beginning.

A KEY INGREDIENT IN THE ORIGINAL CLASSIC – THE OLD FASHIONED

During the mid to late 19th century, fancy cocktails – so called because of the addition of a range of various liqueurs – were becoming a thing. But not for everybody. Some preferred to order more refined, pared-back concoctions, asking for an “old fashioned cocktail”, this being a simple but exquisite combination of whisky and

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4 LE 02 AB T 2 AIL US AV AUG OM FR

When a certain Dr Johann Siegert first produced his aromatic bitters, back in 1824, his aim was very much medicinal. The idea being to create something that would alleviate digestive ailments. Little could he know that Angostura aromatic bitters would become an essential and iconic addition to countless cocktails around the world in the 200 years which were to follow.

Think of the golden age of cocktails and certain evocative names spring to mind. To name but two, the Dry Martini and the Manhattan. While the former is a perfect marriage of London Dry gin and dry vermouth, it’s the addition of Angostura orange bitters that brings them together with added depth and complexity. Similarly, in the latter, a couple of dashes of both Angostura aromatic bitters and Angostura orange bitters are essential in bringing out the

TCL PARTNER

VIP Paloma 45ml aged 100% agave tequila 90ml grapefruit soda 2 dashes Angostura 200th Anniversary Limited Edition bitters Prosecco, to top Grapefruit wedge, to garnish Method: Build the first three ingredients over ice, top with a little prosecco and garnish with a grapefruit wedge.

best in a quality whisky and sweet vermouth. Rather more recently with the rise of the craft cocktail movement, modern classics have been elevated too. The Espresso Martini gets an added hint of luxury when six dashes of Angostura cocoa bitters are added to the mix.

FRONT AND CENTRE – THE QUEEN’S PARK SWIZZLE AND THE ANGOSTURA SOUR

While the bitters of Angostura modestly enhance countless cocktails, there are times, too, when they’ve been deliciously coaxed into the spotlight. Created at the super-elegant Queen’s Park Hotel in the capital of Trinidad and Tobago in the 1920s, the equally elegant Queen’s Park Swizzle is a refreshing combination of dark rum, demerara simple syrup, lime juice and mint leaves. But the soul of the drink lies in the generous eight dashes of Angostura aromatic bitters. And measures of Angostura don’t get any more generous or satisfying than in the sour that bears its name. At the heart of the Angostura Sour is 30ml of Angostura aromatic bitters – and with no other alcoholic ingredients, the cocktail is the perfect expression of the bitters in all of their incredible complexity.

For a range of Angostura recipes visit angosturabitters.com PLEASE ENJOY ANGOSTURA PRODUCTS RESPONSIBLY

Classique 50ml Angostura 1824 Rum 25ml Lillet Blanc 2 dashes Angostura 200th Anniversary Limited Edition bitters 30ml Champagne 1 brandied cherry, to garnish Method: Stir the first three ingredients over ice, strain into a chilled coupe and top with the Champagne. Garnish with the cherry.

CELEBRATE! AN ANGOSTURA LIMITED EDITION AND TWO BRAND-NEW COCKTAILS

Two hundred years is an incredible landmark. And what better way to celebrate than with Angostura's 200th Anniversary Limited Edition bitters. With just 120,000 bottles made this new formula blends Angostura aged rum with Angelica root, Roman wormwood and nutmeg, resulting in a golden amber liquid with the sweet taste of aniseed and spice. All bottled with the iconic label reimagined in black

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and gold. And showcasing the limitededition bitters are two new celebratory serves: the elegant Classique and a party-ready VIP Paloma. For two centuries The House of Angostura has been home to its iconic bitters. It’s also a house of history – essential in the making of classic and contemporary cocktails. Whether you opt for a Queen’s Park Swizzle, Pink Gin or one of the many other delicious drinks featuring the essential bitters from The House of Angostura, it’s time to raise your glass and join the celebration!

The influence of African American contributions from the past can be felt across the spirits industry today. Like most of our influence throughout history, credit wasn’t given where credit was due. Despite that, the stories and narratives of how we’ve innovated the spirits industry remain and continue to be shared and celebrated. From the early days of distillation to the marvels of modern-day cocktail culture, African Americans have played a significant role in shaping the mixology industry as we know it today.

for the family and guests. Despite their oppressive conditions, African Americans brought their creativity, skill and expertise to these roles, leaving an indelible mark on the culinary and mixology landscape of the time. Their contributions helped shape American society’s tastes and preferences and left a lasting impact, even if their names and stories were rarely celebrated.

The importance of stories The production of rum is a striking example of how African Americans have been overlooked in mixology history. Yet, despite the formidable challenges, we persevered. Enslaved Africans played a pivotal role in rum production during colonial times, and their expertise in sugar cultivation and fermentation techniques significantly advanced rum production in the Caribbean and American colonies. Though often unacknowledged, our efforts were integral to the process on whiteowned plantations. We toiled, from shooing away birds to hands-on labour like planting, tending and harvesting sugarcane. Even young children were required to work alongside adults, using basic tools and working around the clock in often hazardous conditions. Our resilience and determination in the face

of such adversity is a testament to our strength and ingenuity, and it’s a story that deserves to be told. Cocktails and spirits are at the heart of an industry that African Americans have significantly influenced for years; service and hospitality are tasks and interactions that African Americans have been providing the United States for more than 400 years. Some of those tasks and interactions include mixology and the service of creating and serving spirits and cocktails. During the era of slavery, many enslaved individuals worked in domestic service roles within households, where they were responsible for various tasks, including cooking, cleaning and serving guests. Their responsibilities often extended to preparing and serving alcoholic beverages, including cocktails,

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After the abolition of slavery, African Americans continued to play significant roles in the service and hospitality industry, often working as bartenders, waiters and chefs. Many of them brought with them the knowledge and techniques passed down through generations, contributing to the evolution of cocktail culture in the US. Most of those techniques and recipes were not archived in books but passed down through ancestral oral tradition or ‘word of mouth’ from generation to generation. This oral tradition, rooted in storytelling and communal sharing, is not just a means of preserving cultural heritage but a living testament to our history and identity. In most African American communities, recipes, cooking processes and traditions were shared and transmitted through familial and

HISTORY

P E X ELS / COT TON B RO

African Americans have had a long and valuable history behind the bar

community gatherings, where elders would impart their knowledge to younger generations. These gatherings were opportunities to share food and drink and as spaces for cultural exchange and preservation. The oral tradition allowed for a fluid and dynamic knowledge exchange, with recipes and techniques often adapted and personalised by each individual or family. This flexibility and creativity has contributed to the richness and diversity of African American cuisine and mixology, as each generation adds its unique twist to recipes and practices.

out their place in the industry and gaining recognition for their skills and expertise. Their contributions have enriched the world of cocktails and spirits, shaping the industry into what it is today. African American bartenders like Tom Bullock, who published the first cocktail book by a Black author in 1917, played a pivotal role in shaping cocktail culture and introducing new techniques and recipes. Similarly, modern-day distillers like Uncle Nearest founder Nathan ‘Nearest’ Green, who was instrumental in developing Tennessee whiskey but was

Sharing our contributions

From bartenders and mixologists to distillers and brand ambassadors, we continue to make our mark on every aspect of the industry

Today, there is a growing recognition of the importance of documenting and preserving these oral traditions within African American communities and the broader culinary world. Efforts to collect and archive oral histories, recipes and cooking techniques help ensure that these valuable cultural traditions are preserved to time and that future generations can continue to learn from and be inspired by the culinary wisdom of their ancestors. Despite facing discrimination and segregation in many establishments, African American bartenders and mixologists persisted, carving

largely unrecognised until recently, have continued this tradition of innovation and excellence. Our contributions to the modern spirits industry through innovation and entrepreneurship are noteworthy and something to be celebrated. From bartenders and mixologists to distillers and brand ambassadors, we continue to make our mark on every aspect of the industry, and our achievements are a

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source of pride and inspiration for all. While many of our ancestors couldn’t document their journeys and stories as they happened, research allows us to piece together their accomplishments. Black Mixcellence: A Comprehensive Guide to Black Mixology serves as one of the stepping stones to documenting our place across some of the facets of history. The book is home to some of our ancestors’ stories, contributions and milestone moments that have significantly affected the mixology industry as we know it today. It also highlights today’s Black and Brown

mixologists and bartenders who are trailblazers in their own right, making their mark in the industry their ancestors helped set the foundation for. Despite facing numerous challenges and barriers, Black and Brown mixologists in the spirits industry have persevered and continue to make significant contributions. Their stories and narratives highlight resilience and creativity but remind us to recognise and encourage diversity in the industry.

Elliott Clark, aka Apartment Bartender

Influencers

A self-described cocktail nerd, Elliot Clark started his Instagram account, Apartment Bartender, as a hobby in 2015 to showcase his love of making cocktails at home. Nearly 10 years later, Elliott has turned his hobby into a vibrant career as a cocktail-creator influencer within the spirits industry, showing cocktail enthusiasts how to make excellent drinks at home. He has collaborated with brands such as Jack Daniel’s, mixed up drinks at Tales of the Cocktail and travelled around the world in the name of cocktails. Based in Denver, Colorado, Elliott released his first book, Let’s Do Drinks, a guide to home bars, in April and is co-owner of The Apartment Creative Studio, which focuses on consulting, content production and events.

Denaya Jones-Reid and Kapri Robinson

Soul Palate is a groundbreaking podcast hosted by talented bartenders Denaya JonesReid (left) and Kapri Robinson (right) with the aim to “normalise the Black and Brown palate” one sip at a time. A light-hearted podcast that’s full of laughs, the show covers a mix of current events, topics and news within the food and alcohol world, all while tasting and talking about spirits. Both hosts have plenty of knowledge to share: Denaya has been in hospitality for more than 10 years and works double duty at craft spirits retailer Seelbach, where she’s the general manager and in-house mixologist; and Kapri co-founded Chocolate City’s Best, the world’s first Black and Brown bartender competition, and spends her time behind the bar at Allegory in Washington, DC.

Names and faces that everyone should have on their radar. By Yolanda Evans

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PEOPLE

Shannon Mustipher

Being a rum and cane spirit expert extraordinaire, Shannon Mustipher is making waves within the rum category. She used to work at the now defunct Glady’s in Brooklyn, slinging rum cocktails, and created Women Who Tiki, a tropical cocktail-centric pop-up. In 2019 Shannon made history with her book, Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails – it was the first cocktail book to be written by a working Black bartender and released by a major publishing house in more than 100 years. In 2020 she received the Tales of the Cocktail Pioneer Award and was inducted into the Dame Hall of Fame for her contribution to the spirits industry. More recently, Shannon created the limitedrelease Tiki Blend for Myrtle Bank Jamaican Rum, unveiled in 2023.

Franky Marshall

Better known as ms franky, Franky Marshall is a legendary bartender who got her start as a server at Brooklyn’s renowned Clover Club with Julie Reiner. Within a year, she was promoted to bartender and has been in demand ever since. ms franky went on to work at other notable cocktail establishments in New York like The Dead Rabbit, Holiday Cocktail Lounge and Le Boudoir, where she created its famed beverage programme. As an educator, she travels around the world instructing bartenders in the gospel of cognac and Pineau des Charentes. She stays booked up and busy, in demand as an event MC and cocktail competition judge, and for her cocktails, which have been featured in books such as Robert Simonson’s Modern Classic Cocktails.

Tiffanie Barriere, aka The Drinking Coach

Tiffanie Barriere has been educating the masses on Instagram about Black culture and history one cocktail at a time. As well as curating cocktails and working with liquor brands to create classes and events that tell the story of Black Americans, Tiffanie has given talks at cocktail festivals such as Bar Convent Berlin and Tales of the Cocktail. Before becoming an independent bartender, Tiffanie spent seven years as the beverage director at Atlanta airport’s One Flew South, recognised as one of the best airport bars in the world. She has collaborated on recipes for an upcoming cocktail-focused book and has featured in two Netflix series, High on the Hog and 2022’s Drink Masters, where she was a guest judge. In 2023, she was awarded the Tales Visionary Award at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards for her work in mentorship and inclusivity.

Educators 31

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PEOPLE

The author set her sights on exploring the influence of Black mixology and traditions on the mostly white cocktail world Tamika Hall

Realising the spirits industry lacked representation of Black and Brown folks, the New York-based author Tamika Hall teamed up with renowned spirit ambassador and bartender Colin Asare-Appiah to write Black Mixcellence: A Comprehensive Guide to Black Mixology, a book that pays homage to the contributions of Black people within the cocktail world. Released in 2022, this cocktail guide not only contains recipes but also features stories that explain the legacy of Black mixologists and trailblazers like Tiffanie Barriere, Camille Wilson and Appleton’s first female Master Blender, Joy Spence.

Keyatta MinceyParker

Toni Tipton-Martin

Storytellers

Toni Tipton-Martin is an award-winning writer who’s been shining a light on African Americans’ contribution to the food and spirits world for years. She won a James Beard Award for both The Jemima Code and Jubilee, in which she focuses on the history of African American food. For her latest book, Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs & Juice: Cocktails From Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks, she set her sights on exploring the influence of Black mixology and traditions on the mostly white cocktail world. After countless hours of research and interviews, Toni has chronicled 200 years of Black drinking culture through a range of recipes and the stories of the mixologists behind them.

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When the pandemic hit in 2020, hospitality workers in Atlanta, Georgia, were out of work and pretty stressed out. A much-needed creative outlet was created by avid gardener/ bartender Keyatta MinceyParker, and her urban garden, better known as A Sip of Paradise, was born. The idea stemmed from her project for Bombay Sapphire’s Most Imaginative Bartender Competition; although she didn’t win, the idea of a bartenders’ garden stayed on her mind. The pandemic set things in motion, as a community garden was a welcome outlet – a place to toil the land in a safe space that would allow them to recharge and forget their worries for a few hours. Not only could they destress, they could also grow herbs and veg within a community setting that they were missing. Since its conception and under the leadership of Keyatta and her staff, A Sip of Paradise has continued to get bigger and better as they receive more donations and grants. Not only do they have more gardening space, this bartenders’ haven also hosts wellness workshops, bar pop-ups and yoga, all in the name of mental health.

Entrepreneurs Agung and Laura Prabowo Vicky Hwang

Minakshi Singh

Thanks to Minakshi Singh and her two bars, Sidecar and Cocktails & Dreams, people are starting to take notice of India’s vibrant bar scene. Sidecar is sitting at 18th place on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list for 2023, and both bars are drawing in prestigious names (like Iain McPherson from Edinburgh’s Panda & Sons) for guest shifts. Minakshi’s bar journey started after she graduated from the Institute of Hotel Management, Catering & Nutrition. She set her sights on owning a bar and started where most people in the industry started: behind the bar, where she began to do some freelance bartending. Later on, she opted to go down the corporate route by working at Diageo and Pernod Ricard to keep her connected to the bar industry. She teamed up with bartender Yangdup Lama and they opened the famed speakeasy Cocktails & Dreams in Gurgaon in 2012 with their own money. When the duo decided to open a second bar, they found an investor and launched Sidecar in New Delhi in 2018, arguably securing India’s place on the global cocktail stage.

Born in Taiwan, Vicky grew up in Hong Kong, spent time in the US for college, then relocated to the UK where she worked as leasing director of London’s Battersea Power Station. Now she's in Singapore where she runs the award-winning Atlas along with her husband and a staff of 60. Set on the ground floor of the iconic Parkview Square building – nicknamed ‘the Gotham building’ by the locals due to its Art Deco architecture – the beautiful bar has been a regular on The World’s 50 Best Bars list since its opening in 2017, and in 2018 was named one of the ‘world’s greatest places to eat and drink’ by Time magazine. But for Vicky the bar means more than its accolades – it pays homage to her grandfather CS Hwang, founder of property conglomerate Chyau Fwu Group, who built the landmark building before he died in 2004. By creating Atlas, she is keeping his legacy alive as well as pursuing her passion for food and drinks.

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Agung and his wife Laura are a power couple who are changing the way people think about sustainability in bars in Asia. Originally from Indonesia, Agung has been the backbone of the Hong Kong cocktail scene since he landed in the city to help with the opening of the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in 2005. After spending time in prominent bars like the Mandarin’s MO Bar and Lily & Bloom he and Laura made the move to bar owners with the opening of The Old Man, a Hemingway-inspired bar, in 2017. Its innovative concept and drinks saw The Old Man named Asia’s Best Bar in 2019. But the duo didn’t stop there; next was the eco-friendly Penicillin bar, opening in 2020. Hong Kong’s first closed-loop cocktail bar, it won the Ketel One Sustainable Bar Award for its part in reducing waste. The couple also own Dead&, a fancy dive bar, while their latest bar, Lockdown, opened in 2023 – its name a nod to the restrictions that were put in place during the global pandemic. With its Prohibition-era cocktails, the couple think of this bar as a new beginning with all tough times a thing of the past.

Ian Burrell talks to Gary Sharpen about his journey from good-times bartender to advocate for rum and Black history

How did you become the Global Rum Ambassador? The recording work lead to voice-overs for commercials. One of these was for Appleton Rum and I met the general manager when it was launching around 1995. He knew I was Jamaican, so he started hiring me for events. After a few years they hired me as their ambassador – I was talking about our culture and what rum meant to it not just as a bartender but as a Jamaican. I then realised I knew a lot about Appleton and Jamaican rum, but nothing about other rums, so I went to the Caribbean to learn about rum in general. At first I was the UK rum ambassador, but later, travelling all over the world, I changed it to Global Rum Ambassador. That’s 17 years you’ve been spreading the word. Has the role evolved? At the start it was about just getting people to drink rum. You’d go to a bar

JA M I E LAU

Is it true that you started out as a basketball player, recording artist and bartender? Yes. I’d planned to go drama school and started bartending to make some money. It was only meant to be for a few months but I met so many interesting people from film, TV and music. I’d always done a bit of rapping so when someone asked if I’d write and record some lyrics, I was like, why not? It was a success and lead to more recording. As for the basketball, I was playing but in the 90s it didn’t pay much, so I was very fortunate to have music, basketball and bar careers at the same time.

The Global Rum Ambassador, Ian Burrell

and just see white, gold and dark rums, normally all the same brand. I thought we should talk more about what’s in the bottle, how it’s made, where it’s from, the heritage, and actually give rum a platform. The more I started learning about the history of rum, the more I evolved to become a spokesman against the injustices in the rum industry. I wanted to promote local culture. Things were seen from a European or American point of view because a lot of

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these countries had been colonised. Now they are fighting to reclaim their identity. I’ve gone from just being a smiley, let’s-drink-rum person to championing quality rums that really, really, stand side by side with some of the other best spirits in the world. I feel I’ve evolved as a person. Essentially I’m still promoting rum, just promoting it in a different way. As you’ve said, Black history and rum history are inextricably linked –

RUM TINGS

what are some of your observations, positive and negative, of this? When I looked at rum as a category it was mainly white men making it because, like any other industry in the Caribbean, it was always run by families from England or Spain. A lot of the Africans and their descendants never got to own rum companies or brands because they were never given the chance to get that wealth. Slowly but surely, a lot of rum companies started looking at themselves and saying, we need to change. They saw they needed to be more diverse. Appleton, for example, when they appointed Joy Spence in 1997 as the first female master blender, that was revolutionary – she opened up a floodgate for other women and other people of colour, in other roles and spirits too. Rum was made in the colonies of the Caribbean, built on the back of enslaved Africans, and that should never be washed out of history. We should always talk about it, but also learn from it and be comfortable talking about it. That’s one of the biggest positives I’ve seen within the rum industry and how it’s changing. We’ve seen some big brands change their names – and whether it was due to peer pressure or because they were losing money, the fact that they’re making steps can only be seen as a positive. Certain people have gone online and said, what are the Black-owned rums? They’re the ones we should be supporting. Then someone says, ‘Well Appleton was Jamaican, but now it’s Italian because it’s owned by Campari – we should boycott them’. But wait a minute: Campari didn’t buy the rum brand and say, right, we’re taking over, we’re doing it our way; they bought the brand and said, we saw what you’re doing, here’s a platform, here’s some more money, carry on doing what you’re doing. So it’s still run by Jamaicans – they make the decisions, they employ Jamaicans, they make the rum. Every bottle you buy is money going back to that company, so you should be supporting them. We’re seeing more Black-owned brands though, especially in the UK. We’re seeing young entrepreneurs of colour who are buying their rums from a distillery or blender and creating their own brands. That should be more of the focus – brands, not distilleries. Because distilleries, like banks, like infrastructure, those types of

whiskies and tequilas of the world. It’s a sharing of expertise. And it cuts out the middleman. That was the idea behind the brand, and that’s how we started with the rum.

things aren’t owned by descendants of enslaved Africans. You really made this part of your own story by putting your name to a rum. We launched Equiano in 2020 and it was about a legacy. It’s good to do something that will leave an impression after you’ve gone. There are lots of amazing rum brands out there – but some of the ideas I had, they’d never really been thought about for rum. So when my business partners approached me to do a rum brand, I decided to work with a team to create something unique. But first, there were some things I wanted us to agree: it had to have a charitable aspect; I wanted to work with one of my favourite rum blenders, Richard Seale from Foursquare; and I wanted to create the brand and the liquid. We came up with an idea and concept of being African Caribbean here in the UK. Because I’m always talking about origins and geography, I said, why not create an African Caribbean rum? There’s never been a rum that linked the past rum makers to the future or the present rum makers. And as a continent, Africa is exciting when it comes to spirit because it’s untapped – there’s so much potential there. About 80% of the countries grow sugarcane, but none of them are making what we see as rum that is sold internationally. That’s one of the reasons why I wanted to do it, because it’s a two-way street: getting rum from Africa to the Caribbean, working with the Caribbean guys, then bringing that back or bringing some of that knowledge to share with the African blenders, the African investors, to then make their products even better. So they can start to make profits and sell their rums in the same way as the

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Tell us about the name…. That hit us like a light bulb. Olaudah Equiano was a prominent African living in the UK in the 18th century. He’d been sold into slavery in the Caribbean, and that’s the journey our rum is making. It starts in Africa, goes to the Caribbean, then comes to the UK – the same journey that Equiano made. So it was just perfect. If you look at the labels on spirit brands around the world, not just rums, there are very, very few women or people of colour. And even if you don’t know who Equiano is, you now have a prominent African, Caribbean, whose name adorns the bottle of a really good-quality rum. We actually launched during Covid and the world started slowing down, so people started seeing certain injustices. One of the names that kept coming up was Equiano, so a lot of people made that little connection between the man and our rum. And the rum itself? We knew the direction we wanted to go, with a blend of Mauritius and Barbados, Africa and Caribbean. It’s an amazingtasting rum – a drinkable rum, not a sipping rum. Richard wanted to make it stronger, but I wanted a product that would be appealing to the masses as opposed to just a selected few. So it’s 43% ABV, enough to keep the flavour. You champion the whole world of rum and now your name is associated with a brand – how do you balance the two? Whichever rum I’m talking about, I’m using that to elevate the whole category. I talk equally about a great rum from Jamaica, Barbados, Mauritius, the UK, Cuba, as much as I would talk about Equiano. For me, it’s about drinking quality spirits. What else are you looking forward to? My first book, Rum: A Tasting Course, is coming out in September. It talks about the history of rum, the different regions, and the rules and regulations in different territories. And I sampled 100 rums from all over the world to give tasting notes. Exciting times? Yes, very exciting time for me. Very exciting time for rum.

G Eboni Majors

rowing up in the predominantly white suburbs of Houston, Texas, in the US, I was accustomed to being the outlier, even among the handful of fellow Black kids in the area. So, I quickly came to terms with being ‘different’. I was the Black teen who preferred emo rock and skateboarding over interests associated with stereotypes of those who looked like me (e.g. hip-hop and basketball). As I got older, my journey of unintentionally being different seeped into my palate preferences. I enjoyed an Old Fashioned – or, if I was feeling especially feisty, a bourbon neat. Though I didn’t view my simple go-to beverage order as a bold statement, I noticed my spirited sipper caused a stir among other drinkers. Keep in mind, I spent my 20s in New York City in the mid to late 2000s, during the era of ‘thin is in’, the peak popularity of the TV series Sex and the City and its unofficial Cosmopolitan – aka the Cosmo – chokehold on the city’s cocktail scene, and the 2009 release of LMFAO and Lil Jon’s dance anthem ‘Shots’ which paid a kitschy homage to a night of drinking every kind of boozy shot praised at the time. So, from this vantage point, I, a 20-something Black woman, was making an intrepid drink choice, opting for whiskey. Even still, though aged spirits – specifically bourbon and Scotch – were marketed mainly to mature, white men, I had a distinct perspective. I grew up with Black men, namely, my dad and grandfather, who enjoyed a whiskey on the rocks. So, when I think of whiskey, I associate it with good times with family, not as a source of bewilderment. My entry into covering whiskey as a journalist started 10 years ago by a serendipitous fluke, though retrospectively, I view all my music and

Award-winning journalist Gabrielle Nicole Pharms shares the joys and challenges of being a double minority in the drinks space 36 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 49

WHISK(E)Y SISTERS

Fashion Week stories as preparing the way for me to have ‘a seat at the table’. So, I pitched Emily Saladino, a then VinePair editor, and she ran my debut spirits feature, a profile on the Texas whiskey boom. To cover the story, I attended a whiskey tasting in Houston featuring an extensive list of top Texas whiskey producers. While there, I noticed that I was one of only a handful of Black people in attendance. And that’s where my journey started, a long ride that still has me wondering: where are all the Black women in whiskey?

he US Congress decreed bourbon ‘America’s Native Spirit’ in 1964. Still, current marketing trends and history have largely ignored or erased the presence of Black producers and consumers from whiskey’s story. Sometime during the 1850s, Nathan ‘Nearest’ Green, born into slavery but emancipated after the Civil War, was one of these voices. He was a master distiller without the title, the man who first taught a young Jack Daniel the art of whiskey distilling. Post-Civil War, other notable Black figures were integral in shaping the American whiskey culture. Louisville, Kentucky-born bartender Tom Bullock was the first Black person to write a cocktail book. Released in 1917, Bullock’s book, The Ideal Bartender, featured a recipe for the bourbon-based Old Fashion Cocktail, which he’s credited with inventing. Even award-winning author and journalist David Wondrich penned ‘The Lost African-American Bartenders Who Invented the Cocktail’, where he mentions that the people mixing Mint Juleps for wealthy white

Virginians were enslaved individuals who likely invented the refreshing, minty cocktail we enjoy today. Sadly, the essential stories of enslaved Black people in the whiskey trade were never written down, becoming lost to history. An added blow is the erasure of women’s crucial contributions to whiskey’s narrative. It’s 2024, and inclusion and representation of Black women in whiskey remains challenging. I’ve attended many whiskey-focused press trips and tastings and while I’m grateful I’ve never been singled out as ‘the Black woman’ on such trips and tastings in a negative way, that doesn’t mean I wouldn’t appreciate more diversity across the industry – from behind-the-scenes in distilleries to C-suite executives and journalists. In July 2023, the OurWhisky Foundation surveyed 600 women about their experience in assorted roles across events, operations, productions, offices and retail in the whisk(e)y industry. A staggering 67% of the respondents said whiskey’s masculine reputation makes their jobs more challenging, citing lack of representation, stereotyping and unconscious bias as the foremost hurdles. Moreover, Deloitte released the results of their 2023 ‘Women raising the bar’ study featuring women respondents who worked in the alcohol beverage industry between October and December 2022. Only one in 10 women working in the alcohol beverage industry believe there has been a significant positive change toward women overall in the last five years. Alarming for double minorities? Yes. However, it’s an opportunity to do better. Though being a double minority in whiskey has presented obstacles, I see it

Women who whiskey: Clockwise from top: Gabrielle Nicole Pharms, Samara B Davis; Tracie Frankin

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as a barrier I must break to open the doors for more Black women to rise in whiskey. I’d be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge the accomplishments of Black womanfounded Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, where CEO/founder Fawn Weaver and master blender Victoria Eady Butler have garnered many ‘firsts’ and numerous accolades, including Butler becoming the first female to be awarded Master Blender of the Year at Whisky Magazine’s American Icons of Whisky Awards in 2021 and 2022. While these two trailblazing powerhouses have received the most public buzz, many other unsung heroes, such as Black women in whiskey, deserve their flowers.

racie Franklin, who wears many hats, such as whiskey educator, public speaker, consultant and distiller, has been a champion for creating a more inclusive and colourful whiskey scene. She’s earned the titles of Scotch Whisky Ambassador of the Year at 2020’s Icons of Whisky, Imbibe 75 Person to Watch, and is an inductee in Tales of the Cocktail’s Dame Hall of Fame for her positive impact in the spirits industry. There’s also the amazing certified Executive Bourbon Steward and founder of the Black Bourbon Society, Samara B Davis, who’s had much success – amassing more than 22,000 members worldwide within only five years – in her mission to encourage diversity in whiskey. I also encourage you to do your research and look beneath the surface. There are many talented Black women in whiskey – even at your local pub. Check out the triumphant stories of whiskey scene shakers Eboni Major, who was the first Black blender at a major distillery; Abisola Whiskey founder Abisola Abidemi; brand strategist and innovation consultant Andrea D Meriwether; Kings County Distillery’s head tour guide Kelci Koonce; Frisky Whiskey CEO and co-founder Nicole Young; visionary and multi-award-winning bartender and spirits educator, Tiffanie Barriere, and many other incredible Black women. The whiskey industry prides itself on embracing technical innovation. But are we just as eager to embrace cultural innovation? So, whether you’re a Black woman already established in the industry or are an ally in supporting more inclusivity, you can help strengthen the whiskey world by opening your palate to diversity.

Minority-owned bars in majority spaces. By Priyanka Blah

t the heart of every vibrant city is its nightlife – a kaleidoscope of people, culture and feelings. And at the centre of this beating heart are the city’s bars. Spaces where connections are formed, relationships deepened and seeds of opportunity sown. Yet, behind the warm lights and clinking glasses, there exists an often overlooked narrative. It’s the story of people of colour who defy odds and carve their niche to open bars in countries where they are historically the minority, and where acceptance and success are not guaranteed. Bars across the world owned by people of colour have always been inviting spaces for people from all walks of life. These inclusive spaces serve the best food and drinks in the city, with a generous side of the warmest hospitality; they nurture communities and reinforce the idea that the beauty of the hospitality industry lies in its diversity. Here are a few of the most convivial drinking dens and social spaces around the world, run by people of colour who have embraced the local culture and are consistently serving happiness and fostering community. 38 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 49

BLACK OWNED BARS

LONDON, UK

Trailer Happiness West Londoner Sly Augustin came into ownership of Trailer Happiness roughly a decade ago after being a regular at the former tiki bar for years through his youth. A kitschy bar located in vibrant Portobello Road, it’s somewhat of an institution and a respected rum destination today, serving as a neighbourhood haunt for locals and tourists alike. A bar that’s all heart, ideal for celebrations or just a casual drink with friends, Trailer Happiness is a good reminder of the fact that the city of London is built on the idea of community and culture, providing space for people from various backgrounds to come together and socialise over quality drinks and great camaraderie. According to Sly, the industry has changed a lot in the past decade. “Thankfully now I can look around and see other Black bar owners, some of whom have told me I inspired them. That is a massive compliment and also gives me purpose outside of the business of selling rum and good times. Because of the history of West London and its links to the Caribbean it feels important to own a business here, especially as its identity is constantly challenged by wealthy franchises.”

LONDON, UK

Hacha Staying in London, we head to the city’s only ‘agaveria’ – and the home of the famed Mirror Margarita – Hacha. Opened in 2019, Hacha in Dalston is co-owned by hospitality veteran Deano Moncrieffe, and is the predecessor to its sister bar of the same name in Brixton. Deano is committed to introducing agave-based spirits to a broader audience and there’s an everchanging list of 25 tequilas and mezcals on rotation at the bar at any given point in time, guiding drinkers through the world of agave. But that’s not all. In 2020 Deano founded Equal Measures (p. 22), with the intention of reshaping the conversation surrounding ethnicity

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within the hospitality industry. The goal is to foster more inclusive recruitment practices, offering bestin-class education and mentorship. Hacha serves as an extension of the Equal Measures vision, hosting the organisation’s Community Days, which aim to build collaboration and unity within the drinks industry.

CALIFORNIA, USA

1010 Wine & Events Making our way over to the US, siblings Leslie and Le Jones are shifting the conversation over some fine wine. 1010 Wine & Events is the first and only wine bar in Inglewood, California, also making it the first and only Black-owned business of its kind in the city. The inspiration for opening a wine bar struck when Le, a licensed attorney, decided to switch from drinking vodka to drinking wine because of how it made them feel. On sharing this with their sister Leslie, a seasoned events planner, the idea was born: recognising a promising opportunity, the pair decided to embark on the journey of opening their own wine bar. 1010 Wine & Events features an impressive selection of more than 90% Black-owned wines not often seen at the local wine stores, and the largest Black- and Brown-owned wine selection in California. “It has been incredibly humbling for us, over the past year, to be recognised by organisations like AAAV [Association of African American Vintners]. The industry is starting to acknowledge our efforts of curating a space that highlights Black-owned wine brands and is making wine more inclusive,” says Le. Taking the plunge to open a business is never an easy decision, especially not as a member of a minority population. “The best advice we can give someone wanting to start this type of business is to be flexible. You might have an idea of what you want and a plan on how it will happen but that may not always be possible. Don’t budge on the core of your business but you can and should be flexible on the things that don’t matter as much. If you get bogged down with the little details, you will never open,” says Leslie.

NEW YORK, USA

Babel Loft The Babel sisters Marva and Myriam, who previously owned well-known cocktail bar Ode to Babel, recently took a new direction and opened Babel Loft, a membership-based community space in Brooklyn. This endeavour is not just about bricks and mortar; it is a firm commitment to fostering Black-owned and -led businesses. Babel Loft seeks to carve out space for aspiring entrepreneurs of colour, facilitating connections with investors and venture capitalists, and opening doors to a more inclusive entrepreneurial ecosystem in the city. Akin to an incubator, Babel Loft is committed to providing a safe space for people of colour to nurture their business ideas and find possible inroads into the world of entrepreneurship through meaningful events and engagement opportunities – all over great food, drinks and music. The establishment of Babel Loft, supported by a consortium of 35 investors, the majority of whom are Black, was partly motivated by a commitment to a

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BLACK OWNED BARS

COLOGNE, GERMANY

Toddy Tapper

community-centric approach to business, which encourages Black investors to put their money into the community and help launch their ideas. Babel Loft designs its events and programming to showcase the work of Black artists, creators and entrepreneurs. This commitment to diversity not only provides exposure and opportunities for Black-owned businesses but also enriches the cultural landscape of the space itself.

Over in Germany, Indika de Silva is bringing a taste of Sri Lanka to Cologne through his bar Toddy Tapper. Toddy tapping, an ancient Sri Lankan tradition, is a unique craft where expert tappers ascend coconut trees and manoeuvre between them on tightropes to collect the sap of the coconut flower. This sap, known as toddy, is the base for making arrack, a robust spirit reminiscent of rum. Typically handed down through generations within toddy-tapping families, this fading occupation remains an essential element of Sri Lankan cultural heritage. Established in 2016, Toddy Tapper achieves a delicate balance: introducing Germany to the indigenous essence of the iconic Sri Lankan arrack, while offering top-tier hospitality and drinks infused with an Asian touch. Toddy Tapper is a celebration both of Indika’s Sri Lankan heritage and the spirit of inclusivity, as the bar masterfully fuses flavours from the east into the drinking culture of the west. Toddy Tapper is also a hub for community activities, with regular events, tastings and workshops bringing together people of various backgrounds and encouraging a sense of community.

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Being a business owner in Germany hasn’t been easy though, says Indika. “In general, restaurateurs and hospitality industry professionals have little or no recognition in Germany. The state should give people more support and recognition. Then, when you have a certain amount of moral support, energy and trust, you can build something of your own.” In this golden age of hospitality, it is vital that we recognise and appreciate the value that venues like these bring to our cities. Operating a business as a member of a minority community presents its own challenges, and the ability to persist and offer the enriching experiences these venues provide is truly admirable. When you find yourself in these cities, stop by for a drink or two and show them that their efforts are appreciated and recognised.

D ORON G I LD

TA L K I N G H E A D S

The man, the myth the legend, Colin Asare-Appiah

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Black man and woman walk into a bar. Why mention their colour? Because they’re meeting up to talk about the past, present and future of people of colour in the drinks industry. Actually, it’s a hypothetical bar and a virtual chat and in truth, it’s mainly a one-way conversation, with me, the aforementioned woman, asking Colin Asare-Appiah about the 30 or so years he’s been in the business. Who else would I choose? Colin is one of the OGs, one of the first wave of ‘celebrity’ bartenders/brand ambassadors who were instrumental in shaping how brands engage with bars

Not bad for someone who discovered their true calling lay in hospitality after ending up homeless, sleeping on a beach. “I’d gone out to Greece after I finished uni but I ran out of money,” he says, chortling. “After a week or so living rough I met a lady who changed my life. Her name is Harriet Grant.” As well as offering the young Colin a place to stay and a bed in her house, she found him a job in a bar, glass collecting. And the rest, as he says, is history. While his career was born in Greece, it was christened in London. That’s where he honed his craft, became one of the top movers and shakers on the circuit and co-founded London Academy of Bartending (LAB) with the late Douglas Ankrah and Alex Turner.

“That’s a tough one,” he says, pondering, then comes back with, “A bit of both I guess. Back in the day it could be a little bit annoying to say the least. But did I ever feel as if I was overlooked for a role that I applied for? I don’t think so.” Or has he ever felt that he’s experienced different behaviour towards him as a Black man? “Very occasionally, mainly in the early days,” he says. “For example, I was behind the bar and this guy walks up, looks over my shoulder and asks me when the bartender was coming back. I looked around and said, ‘I am the bartender’. I mean, what did he think I was doing there? Bloody security!” That was in the late 90s/early 2000s, when he was one of a few people of

Talking the past, present and future of people of colour in the drinks biz with Tales Visionary Award winner, Colin Asare-Appiah. By Sandrae Lawrence and consumers, and ultimately, the way we all drink today. To date, he’s bossed it as a bartender, brand ambassador, educator, advisor, television presenter, co-author, festival organiser, MC and LGBTQ+ Advocacy Trade Director. He’s also one hell of a person to hang out with. Virtually but better still in person. In short, Mr A-starred is a powerful presence with an imposing stature to match his status. He’s all big smiles, generous hugs and booming voice, most noted for championing causes and spurring people on with his now legendary catchphrase: “Get involved bruv!”

It’s also where he was rooted when he co-hosted Cocktail Kings, a dedicated travel/cocktail show broadcast on the Discovery Travel Channel. Then came New York, where his innate skills and charm were confirmed notably as a brand ambassador – and as a result, he’s been baptised for his talents all over the world. And he’s got a plethora of awards to prove it.

Colour bar

He’s put in the groundwork has Colin, which prompts the question: does he think that being a person of colour in the industry has helped or hindered him?

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colour on the London bar scene. “There was me, Douglas Ankrah, Dimi Lezinska, John Gakuru, Richard Hargroves and Andrew Chan Sing, then Ian Burrell popped up when he was representing Wray & Nephew and Appleton rums. We paved the way for people of colour to enter the industry and be respected for what they brought to it.” While in the US it’s been fairly commonplace to see Black men and women behind the bar, it’s only recently becoming more of a thing in Europe. Which gives rise to my question: why are there not more people of colour behind the bar? Or in the wider drinks industry,

TA L K I N G H E A D S

for that matter? “My friends used to ask me why I wanted to be a bartender – why I wanted to serve people,” Colin muses. “I still think there’s that connotation of being in service which throws a lot of Black people off. And coming from a second- or third-generation African or Caribbean background, it’s all about getting a proper job. Definitely not serving people in bars.” We zig and zag about the subject a bit more, then I bring up Black Lives Matter. “Why do you ask?” he enquires. Not in a rude way. He’s not ruffled. At least not visibly. He’s curious. And I totally appreciate the question. I explain that I want to know his thoughts on the impact BLM may

prejudices or thoughts about us. Black Lives Matter really shone a light on the discrepancies. All industries have woken up to the fact that there needs to be more of a level playing field. People talk about Black Lives Matter as if it’s something that happened and has gone, but it’s a constant movement, and it will constantly continue to change and continue to provide people with that gut check of, hey, are we doing the right thing here?”

Moving forward

So what next? How do we take those positive steps and move forward? “There are a lot more people of colour in places of power but we need more,” he begins.

NAACP [National Association for the Advancement of Colored People] to help develop Black-owned businesses and there are various incubation companies helping Black-owned businesses and brands. “And people like yourselves, the media should be shining a light on the up-and-coming talents. Who are the next generation of barbacks, hosts; who’s the person everyone wants to work for? There are so many roles within this industry, why are the media always celebrating the bartenders?” Before we wrap up, I ask him, “What’s the best thing about being Colin?” He laughs, a big bottom-of-the-stomach laugh. “No-one has ever asked me that

People talk about Black Lives Matter as if it’s something that happened and has gone, but it’s a constant movement or may not have had on the drinks industry. As he’s one of only a handful of Black people who was on the scene before cocktails went mainstream and is still hugely relevant today, as far as I’m concerned, his opinions count. “I’ve noticed the difference,” I tell him. “People are more aware of the importance of representation – not just colour, but sex, disabilities, everything. I just wanted to see if you’ve noticed any changes?” “I think it woke people up to the fact that, a, we as people of colour had been underrepresented and b, been overlooked,” he replies. “It also allowed us to see the people who had inherent

“There are so many sides of the industry where we have very little representation – one of them being distribution. How many Black distribution companies or people at the top of the distribution game do you see in the UK and across the US? Slowly but surely when we get more people of colour in distribution and sales, for example, that’ll make a big difference to what we’re doing, how we’re showing up in the industry. “We are starting to see more of us in leadership positions with brands, brand directors, brand managers, brand owners, for example,” he continues. “And there are platforms being set up to help. Here at Bacardí, we work with

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before,” he says, clearly tickled. “The best thing about being Colin is that I can pave the way for others that look like me, talk like me and walk like me to have more impact. As a proud Black man of African/Ghanian heritage, I have always been looking at ways to engage with the bar community in the region, so I can honestly say that the best thing about being Colin is that I, along with my business partner Mark Holmes, have started Abaju, a cocktail festival for the industry to connect, create, collaborate and celebrate the rich tapestry of the African continent. The first one was in March and the next will be in October. I’m excited to see it grow.”

A wee shout out to some of the people making a big impact behind the scenes THE FRONT OF HOUSE MANAGER

La’Mel Clarke, Seed Library

You couldn’t wish for a better front of house/floor manager than dancer, choreographer and writer La’Mel Clarke. For one thing, he’s so cool, you want to be in his company and another, he’s the perfect host. seedlibraryshoreditch.com

THE EVENT PRODUCER

Marika Skeete, Sweet&Chilli Global Drinks Agency

Marika is the very calm head behind some of the biggest, slickest and complex cocktail competitions and events around the globe. In her newly created role she leads the event production at every stage of the process, from concept ideation through to final execution – all with a relaxed air and reassuring smile. sweetandchilli.com THE DIGITAL CREATOR

Ade Akinsanya Freepour

THE DRINKS PR

One of the onboarding team of the Freepour at Bacardi app, Ade has been instrumental in shaping the look, feel and content, aimed at informing, inspiring and educating the bartending community. freepour.app

Alia Jamal, Founder Doubleshot

After working in PR for more than 15 years Alia founded her own drinks PR agency, doubleshot in 2022. Proof that she was doing something right came a year later when she was awarded PR Agency of the Year by The Spirits Business. doubleshot.ltd THE BAR BACK

THE DRINKS CONSULTANT

Tamil Islam, Baba au Rum

The prize for the most dedicated, long-standing bar back goes to Tamil Islam, the man who’s been keeping Baba au Rum shipshape since 2009. babaaurum.com

Russell Burgess, Wet & Dry

Whether making cocktails for intimate house parties or developing serves for large brands, industry veteran Russell and business partner Harry Gerakis, have built a reputation for their ability to nail any given brief, whatever the size or budget. wetanddry.net

THE WELLBEING ADVOCATE

Jason-Candid Knüsel Healthy Hospo

Jason is managing director of Healthy Hospo, the non-profit organisation that provides support, training and workshops for hospitality workers. More than a job, it’s a passion and one he takes great pride in. healthyhospo.com

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This could be the first copy of The Cocktail Lovers magazine that you’ve picked up, or maybe you’ve been a regular reader since we first published it in 2011. Perhaps you also listen to our podcast. Or you’re someone who dips into our website, receives our newsletter or follows us on social media. Whoever you are we’d like to say ‘welcome’. And we’d like to tell you a little more about who we are, what we do and why we love to collaborate. 46 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 49

ABOUT US

Who we are

Founded by husband-and-wife team Sandrae Lawrence and Gary Sharpen, we bring a wealth of experience from our previous professions (Sandrae as a lifestyle journalist and editor, Gary as an advertising copywriter and creative director) combined with an intense shared passion for the premium cocktail and spirits world – the clue’s in our name, we are The Cocktail Lovers.

too, with radio appearances including Woman’s Hour and The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4, and as regular guests on BBC Radio London. We’ve also contributed to other publications, including Delicious, Observer Food Monthly and The Telegraph.

Partnering with brands

We’re especially pleased to have worked closely with some of the world’s most

What we do

We love sharing cocktail news and views, plus interviews with the amazing people in the drinks world. We love giving our views on the incredible products we try. And we also love talking about the inspiring bars and brand homes around the world that we’re fortunate enough to visit. That’s why we founded The Cocktail Lovers, originally as a website and blog, 16 years ago.

A magazine, a podcast, a website and a whole lot more

We’re proud to have an audience comprising both drinks professionals and discerning consumers. And through our website and blog we shared the cocktail love. Then realising the scale of our engaged audience, we launched the award-winning quarterly premium print magazine you’re holding right now (also available digitally by the way). And three years ago we also began producing and hosting an award-winning podcast (60 episodes and counting). But if that little lot wasn’t enough to keep us busy, we’ve also found ourselves being invited to share the cocktail love in all kinds of other ways, from mainstream media to partnering with some of the most respected drinks brands.

Traditional media

We’ve had the opportunity to big-up the cocktail world we love in other media

Best Food & Drink Podcast: The Publisher Podcast Awards 2022

Best Broadcast, Podcast or Online Video Series: Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2022

respected spirits brands on a whole range of projects. We create bespoke editorial-style partnership features with all kinds of brands for our magazine. Our podcast includes tailored brand segments. And our website is a handy hub for tactical and topical announcements.

Live events, videos and competitions

We’ve also been asked by brands to create and host live events. For consumers these have included informal and interactive workshops, and smart soirées for intimate tastings and sharing brand stories. In the industry world we’ve facilitated round-table discussions and given presentations at trade events at home and abroad. We’ve partnered with brands, too, on video projects sharing our opinions on products and serves, and interviewing renowned bartenders. And we’re honoured to have been judges on countless cocktail competitions. Around the UK and abroad we’ve tasted extraordinary cocktail creations, shared feedback and promoted the bartenders and brands that make these events invaluable.

Collaboration, it’s what we love

Whether it’s through our magazine, on our podcast or via our website; devising an event, producing a video or judging a cocktail competition; or, indeed, partnering on something completely new and different, such as curation or consultancy, brand partnerships are one of the things we especially love. In short, we’re creators, curators and connectors for the cocktail world. If you’d like to collaborate with The Cocktail Lovers we’d really love to hear from you.

Drop us a line at mail@ thecocktaillovers.com or scan the QR code to get in touch right away!

Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication: Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016

Ms S & Mr G

The Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People: London Evening Standard 2015/17

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DIGESTIF TIME TO SIP, SAVOUR AND CONTEMPLATE

p. 66 Raising the steaks

The new era of mixology at Gaucho restaurants

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IN THIS ISSUE Jo Last reflects on being a South Asian woman in the drinks industry; Shreya Patel shares her favourite 3 ingredient cocktail and Brian K Owanga takes us on a cocktail tour of Kenya

This page: Jo behind the bar; Right: With colleauge and friend, Pippa Guy; Far right: A moment of reflection

CULTURAL CONNECTIONS

Jo Last shares her perspective on finding her identity in the industry

y heritage spans the globe, from South Asia to North Africa and Northwest Europe. My late father, grew up in Adis Abiba, lived in Mexico. My mother is from an Anglo-Indian background. I was born in London and have lived in the UK all my life. When I was younger, the question “where are you from?” was easy. It wasn’t until I was older, and the colour of my skin and my British accent put me in the spotlight and the, “yes, but where are you really froms?” started to be more common. I often distanced myself from those questions, because I found it overwhelming and I didn’t want to justify who I was, as to me at a young age, I didn’t understand why it was such a big topic of conversation. I struggled

with my identity through university – the blending of cultures within me, often made me feel lost. I spent a lot of time trying to fit in, instead of identifying with who I was. I didn’t find out the real answer to the “where are you really from” questions until my early 20s, which was the same time I began my career in hospitality. And more than a decade on, I would say the uniqueness of the hospitality industry has contributed to me, being more solidified in who I am. I began my career in Leeds, working in a handful of bars. During that time, I saw cocktail competitions as an avenue to connect with people, progress my career and push myself creatively. After a few attempts at the Gin Mare Mediterranean Inspirations competition, I took home the global title in Ibiza in 2019 and continued onto World Class which now is a big part of my work.

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Competing, learning, and forging friendships with people from all over the world was the main “win” for me. A short stint working at the Winter Olympics in South Korea followed and then the community I knew in Leeds, one of the closest I’ve ever worked in, opened the doors to moving back to London, to work at the Beaufort Bar at The Savoy. The importance of having mentors, forging relationships with people with different experience is what has really progressed my career. We are in the business of people after all. Hospitality is a melting pot of people from different walks of life, an industry that has enabled me to travel, experience different cultures, and learn from multiple different people. If you go to another country, sit at a bar, go to a trade show, work at events, you will often find a welcoming person on the other side

C U LT U R E

of that conversation, someone you can connect with almost instantly by diving into the subtle nuances and long-winded discussions that come from being part of the unique culture, that is bar culture. During the pandemic, I co-created the Booze Brain, an educational initiative connecting and inspiring the global hospitality community when we all felt the furthest apart. It was an important platform that enabled us to mentor each other and simply spend time (albeit virtually) with others. When it comes to wider representation in the GB hospitality industry, the main areas I see a lack of representation are in positions of leadership, for example, bar owners, leadership teams in large bar groups, those who are winning awards and excelling or entering competitions. I think there are a lot of people from diverse backgrounds working within the industry, but it is important to foster supportive and welcoming communities for those at the start of their career path – bartenders, back of house, front of house – so that they have access to the tools to progress into positions of leadership. We need to provide more mentorship, networking opportunities and funding on a consistent basis, so that more people have access to the tools they need.

This will go a long way to build a more inclusive hospitality environment in Great Britain and the rest of the world. I currently work at Diageo and lead World Class GB with my colleague and friend, Pippa Guy. This year, we created the World Class Women+ initiative and led by Charlotte Barker and the team, we began with listening forums. Multiple attendees pointed out, that we often are speaking to those who live and breathe the same difficulties, preaching to the

THE BLENDING OF CULTURES WITHIN ME OFTEN MADE ME FEEL LOST choir per se. I think it’s important that representation doesn’t just fall on the shoulders of those who experience barriers. The irony is that often these initiatives feel siloed, which is ironic right? An initiative created to address the barriers, can feel isolating. There are great programmes that exist within the industry, Learning for Life is a platform created by Diageo for those seeking employment in the hospitality business, but who may have faced barriers to education and

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employment in their lives. I have attended community days and seen amazing work from Vicky Ilankovan who is a driving force at Equal Measures (p. 22). Although, there is something I often ask myself which is, what is within my control? What decisions can I make today to ensure greater representation in my world? It takes a mindset shift – and often investment of money and time, the most guarded things in the minds of many. How can you interweave decisions into your daily life – that will create ripples for those who need it? If you are in the power of hiring, are you looking to different communities to build your team? Are you consistently celebrating the same people’s achievements or looking elsewhere? Have you spoken to your team about their career progression? You need to create an ecosystem of support and safety by incorporating action into existing ways of thinking and working instead of seeing it as an “add on”. Use your privileges to shape a more diverse future. I am still working on embracing who I am professionally and personally but the opportunities I have experienced in hospitality have played a massive part in helping me do this.

OUT AND ABOUT

Handshake Speakeasy, Calle Amberes 65, Juárez, Mexico City

Talk about serendipity, my visit to Handshake Speakeasy couldn’t have been timed any better if I’d tried. Two days earlier, the bar, which just happens to be one of my absolute favourites in the world, let alone Mexico City, scooped the top spot on North America’s 50 Best Bars list and there I was, right on cue for the party. It’s the perfect spot for celebrations. It just feels so special. I love the way it oozes sexiness but in a cool, very accessible way. I mean, lush velvet upholstery, sensuous Art Deco-esque lighting, marble surfaces and all the swish gold fixtures and fittings you could possibly wish for, come on! What’s not to like? I’ve written about it before,

this time last year I think, but I make no apology for doing it again. There’s a reason that, in addition to its Best Bars gong, just three years since opening it’s in contention for four – yes, four – awards in the upcoming Spirited Awards at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans: Best International Bar Team, Best International Cocktail Bar, World’s Best Cocktail Menu and, for head bartender Eric van Beek, International Bartender of the Year. How’s that for impressive? So, what’s all the fuss about? Allow me to set the scene… Handshake is a mood, an escape. It’s where you go to kick off the day and ease into a whole other world. There are two bars, one more snug-like and intimate on

THE COCKTAIL GIRL CELEBRATES AT… Mexico City’s celebrated speakeasy

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the ground floor, the other, a tad more spacious, more playful in another downstairs section of the hotel that Handshake shares space with. Both are perfect for settling back and trying out the new menu. Take your time. It’s worth it. There are 11 drinks in total, six are unapologetically punchier styles, the rest are non-alcs but flavour bombs nonetheless. I’ll start with the alcoholic numbers, as is my wont, and as I expected from the team here, I wasn’t disappointed. Even the long drinks are gorgeous – layers and layers of complexity and deftly balanced flavour. There’s Earl Grey (Roku Gin, lemongrass, earl grey tea, Nami Sake, lime and bergamot), fresh and citrussy with that lovely Japanese gin shining through, and Guava + Jasmin (Bushmills 10 Year Old Irish Whiskey, guava and jasmine tea) – highly recommended if you like fruitier styles but nothing nambypamby, you want yours with a bit of oomph. Speaking of which, you won’t be disappointed with the shorter drinks in this section. Coconut + Tarragon (Braltos Blanco Tequila, tarragon, coconut, fino sherry and palo santo) might not sound like it would work in a glass but in the hands of Eric van Beek and co, the seemingly disparate ingredients come together seamlessly. As does the rest of the menu. They’ve got a thing for tea here and they show it off so damned well. It’s there in the Orange Blossom (Altos Plata Tequila, orange blossom, lemon, whey, vanilla and jasmine tea) – one of the short drinks (delicious btw) – and warrants its own section of carbonated, cold-brew teas, so good they call them Tea Champagnes. Take your pick from Jasmin (‘floral and citrussy’), Hojicha (‘herbal and roasted’) and chamomile (‘herbal, green and sparkling’). Like the bars, all of the drinks are *chef ’s kiss*. Little wonder why they’re up for all those awards. Bookings essential. handshake.bar

THE COCKTAIL GUY DISCOVERS… Drinkable works of art in Bratislava When this cocktail guy finds himself in a new city his thoughts turn to exploring and understanding not just the drinks but also the local culture, history and heritage. Having said that, when I found myself in the heart of the Slovakian capital, Bratislava, such was the draw of Mirror Bar that I unashamedly admit that this was the one place in the city I most wanted to be. Not only a fascinating bar, but one that also happened to be launching a brand-new menu. Actually, as its title suggests, The Mirror Bar Cocktail Book 2024 is somewhat more than a menu, it’s an actual book. Exquisitely designed and illustrated over more than 60 pages, it comprises five sections (Classy, Highlights, Design, Sharing and Non-Alco) and evokes the extraordinary drinks to come. Among the pages are drinks inspired by guests who have frequented the hotel that houses the bar, from Thomas Edison to Rihanna; highlights from the bar’s previous menus; and cocktail creations that are the result

of conversations with AI, from illustrations to finished drinks. Engrossed as I was by this enticing book, I couldn’t help but notice the drinks that were already arriving before other anticipatory guests. I say drinks but ‘artworks’ would be a rather more appropriate description. Intrigued by what I was seeing, I made my selections… Lantern of Infinity (Rum Diplomático Seleccion de Familia, goji and rosehip clarified juice, red miso butter caramel and rice milk), from the Design section, was a mind game. Served in a futuristic cube of light, the glass within appeared to go on forever. Reaching into the cube in search of the glass my hand seemed to vanish, before I found myself holding a sculptural, multifaceted rocks glass. As for the drink itself, it had a delicious depth which, fittingly, went on and on. Marble (Cognac Hennessy VSOP, cornflakes, coconut, Champagne and Cointreau) from the Classy section (right) is an interpretation of the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Again the serve was a

Mirror Bar, Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel, Hviezdoslavovo Námestie 3, 811 02, Bratislava

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piece of art, and it was as though a balloon-shaped glass had melted onto a cube of marble. None of the ingredients were individually recognisable, but they came together in a satisfying and rich whole. Importantly, the drinks perfectly fitted the bar itself. Part bar, part gallery, it’s a dark, intimate and luxurious space, which also pays homage to nature with an eye-catching display of plants that serve as living accompaniments to many of the cocktails. I settled back to enjoy the drinks which double as works of art. Or vice versa. The overall experience is a fitting testament to the work of Stanislav Harciník who heads up the bar. Moreover, his work also serves to highlight the many talented bartenders from the region. (Soon to be recognised in Harciník’s upcoming book.) As for culture, history and heritage, I did eventually manage to catch a glimpse of both Bratislava Castle and the extraordinary construction that sits atop the SNP Bridge. The latter a one-time monument to the country’s former Communist rulers, its unusual shape earned it the local nickname of the UFO – it’s now, I’m happy to report, a restaurant and bar. The Mirror Bar is an exquisite microcosm of Bratislava itself. Intriguing, extraordinary and everevolving. I can’t wait to go back. mirrorbarcarlton.com

HOW TO

Silverleaf bar

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

Creativity, from concept to creation with Reuben Clarke

s the senior bartender and head of R&D at Silverleaf in London, and now that I’m just starting out as a consultant, I have to come up with original concepts and new twists on classics more and more frequently. It’s not unusual to have to deliver quality results with a tight turnaround time. There’s always an event coming up at Silverleaf or a seasonal menu flip for one of my clients, meaning I need to be ready at any moment with a fresh idea for a plethora of scenarios. So, for this edition of Liquid Intelligence, I’ll share my creative process from conception to creation. The first step before I even touch a bottle or consider using a certain ingredient is finding inspiration. I believe that being inspired is the catalyst that drives you to create the distinction between a good cocktail and a great one. Without inspiration, there’s little motivation to begin the creation process. For me, inspiration comes from

a variety of sources. To name a few: smelling a particular perfume, tasting quality produce at its peak season, or even simply the desire to use an ingredient I’ve never used before. Any of these can spark the starting point for a potential drink. From there, I archive the idea until the appropriate moment for development presents itself. While having inspiration is very exciting, I believe there’s value in disciplining myself not to rush into the development stage, ensuring the idea debuts at the optimal moment. Once I’ve established the flavours I want to utilise, the next step is deciding how to present them. This involves determining the structure of the cocktail. For instance, if I’m trying to express the flavour of fresh tomato with shiso, would these flavours be best enjoyed as a highball or a gimlet? Which part of the palate do I want the acidity to hit? How sharp is it? The possibilities are infinite, with no right or wrong

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answers, which doesn’t narrow things down. So to analogise, I have my colour palette – now, what do I want to draw? This step is crucial for the balance of the finished drink and is chosen with the intention of fully conveying my idea. Now for the fun part! Working the flavours into the determined structure. Nowadays, it’s becoming increasingly common for bars to own a few toys like a rotary evaporator, a centrifuge, a freeze dryer and other cutting-edge equipment to extract flavour in a variety of ways. The key, I believe, is to know how to use these tools but also to know exactly when to wield them to your advantage. Sometimes simple is best. I’m yet to meet a guest who comes in and ask for the most complicated and technically clever drink on the menu. The secret is to source the best ingredients and to have the confidence to elevate them simply – because when you have the best ingredients, half the prep is already done.

TCL PARTNER

TAKE THREE INGREDIENTS By Shreya Patel, Bartender at Lyaness, London “When I was asked what my favourite three-ingredient drink is, I found it very hard to choose. However, I do have a current favourite that I’ve been drinking a lot. A classic Rum Old Fashioned can never go wrong. It holds the simplicity of an Old Fashioned, but it provides more tropical, fruity and spicy notes. What I love the most is how one can use the advantage of the versatility of rums. As they come in so many different varieties – light, rich, dry, dark, smoky – they can create the cocktail with different flavour profiles. The combination I’ve given here is my personal favourite style at the moment.”

Rum Old Fashioned 60ml Havana Club Seleccion de Maestros 2. 5ml homemade fig and pepper syrup* 3. 4 dashes Angostura aromatic bitters

THE SPIRIT OF AFRICA

Method: Stirred down, served over ice in a rocks glass, and garnished with a piece of orange peel. Spirit forward, tropical, fruity, spicy.

Amarula, creating delicious products, winning awards and supporting the local community

*To make fig and pepper syrup:

1000g sugar 125g dried fig 5g cracked black pepper 2000g water

Earlier this year Amarula Cream Liqueur picked up a Double Gold Medal at the 24th annual San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC). Another in a long line of welldeserved accolades for the spirit that began its journey some 40 years ago. The Spirit of Africa was born in 1983 with the first bottling of a clear distillation of marula. This fruit, unique to Africa’s subequatorial plains, ripens for harvest just once a year. And how do the locals know it’s ready? Elephants, far and wide, gravitate towards its attractive scent. (Hence the elephant proudly adorning the bottle.) Amarula Cream Liqueur followed in 1989. A sumptuous combination of the original spirit with velvety cream. Fresh, smooth and rounded, it’s perfect served simply over ice or in the delicious Don Pedro. The Amarula Cream Liqueur range now includes tempting variations including coffee, chocolate and raspberry – and most recently the new vegan expression, which combines the original spirit with a touch of coconut. Importantly, Amarula also goes beyond the bottle. Initiatives include the Makanyi Foundation, dedicated to enhancing the wellbeing of local communities; HERD, South Africa’s first elephant orphanage; and The Handwork Hub for women’s empowerment. Enjoy and salute the unique Spirit of Africa with Amarula Cream Liqueur.

Cook everything together until thickened and sugar has dissolved, then strain.

Don Pedro (Serves 2) 87ml Amarula Cream Liqueur 225ml vanilla ice cream 60ml double cream Grated chocolate and chocolate syrup, to garnish

Method: Add the Amarula Cream Liqueur, ice cream and double cream to a blender. Blend until smooth and serve garnished with grated chocolate and chocolate syrup. To discover more about Amarula visit amarula.com

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

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Clockwise from top: A taste of Sri Lanka; Dom Fernando, Calamansi Gimlet; Erin MulkerrinEnglish, head of drinks

Paradise 2.0

61 RUPERT STREET, LONDON W1D 7PW. PARADISESOHO.COM (£££)

The vibe: With its stark concrete walls and muted greige/brown colour palette, this isn’t a spot that screams comfort. But that’s Brutalist design for you. Mind you, since its recent reopening as Paradise 2.0, Dom Fernando has introduced plum leather banquettes and wooden elements to inject a feeling of warmth. The food: These are Sri Lankan family dishes but perfectly executed with a progressive twist. Choose from the à la carte lunch menu or linger over the two-hour, six-course tasting menu in the evenings, with a choice of fish, veggie or meat options. Top picks: Mas Roll (dryaged raw fillet steak tartare, tomato and garlic emulsion, and smoked charcoal oil), and Wattalappam (Brixham crab-infused wattalappam, Cornish white crab and jambola, sea buckthorn, kalu-sago and squid ink cracker) – absolutely stunning.’

MAINS & MARTINIS

The drinks: What does Sri Lanka taste like in cocktail form? Probably the Calamansi Leaf Gimlet (East London Gin, calamansi leaves and caraway seeds) or the Rambutan Daiquiri (curry leaf-infused Aluna Coconut Rum, rambutan and acids) – two of the new drinks created by Erin Mulkerrin-English with Max and Noel Venning from London’s Three Sheets.

Three restaurants where a touch of spice is always nice, in food as well as the drinks

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E AT & D R I N K

Left: Portobello177 by day, and above, in the evening

Portobello177

177 PORTOBELLO ROAD, LONDON W11 2DY. PORTOBELLO177.COM (££)

The vibe: What we wouldn’t do to have an all-day restaurant like Portobello 177 in our ’hood. The look, feel and fabulously relaxed service is just what you want to have on your doorstep. Owners Sly Augustin and partner Maiko Neill have done a brilliant job creating a beautiful, lightfilled space that’s ideal for any time and every occasion. The food: They’ve got a perfect day-into-evening menu, ranging from an omelette with oyster mushroom, pecorino and tonkotsu to charcoal langoustines and wild garlic. We urge you to try the chickpea curry flatbread – devilishly close to the Trinidadian street food ‘doubles’ and equally addictive. The bread is puffy and light, the curry just the right level of spicy, so good in fact that before we knew it, it was gone. The fried chicken with caviar is another great choice. We recommend ordering three small plates and a main for two to share. The drinks: The cocktails follow similar Jamaican/Japanese influences as the food. There’s the Lilly Pad Martini (Junmai Ginjo Sake, Dolin Blanc Vermouth and grapefruit bitters); Yuzu Colada (Portobello 177 Gin, yuzu purée, coconut cream and lemon juice), and Umeshu Daiquiri (El Dorado 8 Rum, plum sake, lime juice and cane sugar), all of which hit the right tasting notes with us.

Akara

ARCH 208, 18 STONEY STREET, LONDON SE1 9AD. AKARALONDON.CO.UK (££)

The vibe: Stripped back it may be, but we were instantly soothed upon entering this welcome addition to the foodie mecca that is in and around Borough Market. Bare brick walls, blonde wood and equally light upholstery make for the ideal canvas to show off the pops of colour that come from the carefully selected pieces of modern art. None of which distracts you from the flavour explosion that is…

a big hit in London too. Here they’re served atop a plinth-like stone cube and take up the first part of the menu, before the larger ‘Plates’. They’re all pretty stunning but we particularly loved the BBQ Prawn and Crab KuliKuli varieties. Main dish recco? Lagos chicken – a finger-licking good barbecued spatchcocked poussin with citrus hot sauce and short rib soya, charred onion with sweet pepper sauce.

The food: When in Akara, it would be rude, nigh on impossible not to eat at least one of the dishes that this restaurant is named after. These deep-fried fritterlike snacks made with ground brown or black-eyed beans and spices are extremely popular in Africa, Brazil and some parts of the Caribbean – and since this restaurant opened earlier this year, they’re becoming

The drinks: There’s a neat list of just seven cocktails on the main menu. We went for the Vodka/Peach a perky little number livened up with scotch bonnet, lemon and London Essence Peach Soda, and the Rum Punch, a taste of Africa made with Aphro The Nubi, Planetary Xaymaca, cucumber, orange, lemon, mandarin and hibiscus. Not drinking? Try the scotch bonnet cordial.

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L

KENYA CONNECTIONS

UNSPLASH

From city to mountain and on to the beach – an insider’s guide to drinking in Kenya. By The Afrikan Mixologist Maker, Brian K Owango

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Clockwise from left: An evening at Sinnerman; Below: Vintage touches at Beit é Selam; Centre: A refreshing drink at Sinnerman; Fairmont Norfolk hotel

frica. The dark continent? At night, yes. Strange and scary? It depends on what you put in your mouth. You might be pleasantly surprised. Cocktails and dreams? These are served up in plenty across Kenya. Kenya’s perfect serve is a 10–14day trip. You’re going to want to start your liquid journey off in the capital, Nairobi, then head off either to enjoy a safari or climb Mount Kenya, depending on how intrepid you are, and finish your time off at the beach… THE CAPITAL CITY

Nairobi

When you arrive in Nairobi, you’re best off staying in Westlands, a fairly central neighbourhood from where you can start to explore a bit of the cocktail scene – what it was, what it is and the wonderful possibilities of what it is going to be. The city centre of Nairobi is sadly

bereft of a cocktail scene as the area is becoming more populated by highvolume eateries. However, to start to glean a picture of the good old days (good for some), it’s worth taking a ride down to the Fairmont Norfolk hotel for a drink at Cin Cin. The team at The Norfolk have executed a genius move by offering popular pours from other Fairmont properties on their list in Nairobi. If there was ever a way to market your hotel chain, the Fairmont have nailed it here. A modernised colonial remnant of Kenya, the hotel will give you a taste of Nairobi’s past where the privileged few, the cohorts of the aristocrat settlers, used to dine,

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dance and misbehave thoroughly. It’s worth a trip because, well, now you’re allowed to be in there. Once you’ve taken the selfie by the pictures from 1910, posed by the rickshaw with your boo and heard why Lord Delamere Terrace is on Harry Thuku Road, you’ll probably be ready for a step into a more contemporary cocktail setting in the heart of Westlands. A place where today’s hip cats go. Sinnerman is a retro funky cocktail bar on the first floor of The Alchemist, a multi-function mini complex that attracts a range of Nairobi’s revellers and gets super busy at the weekends. Sinnerman co-founder Lele Vasino stayed behind in Kenya after her contract with the Mulberry Group ended and her singular goal was to provide something fresh on the bustling Westlands scene – somewhere to celebrate Kenya’s new wave of young mixologists, great music and familial hospitality. One of the bar’s more interesting libations – which also

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

happens to be its fastest mover – is The Doc, inspired by Doc in Back to the Future. It’s a perfectly balanced mix of butter-washed gin, sage, eucalyptus cordial and tonic. If a quieter engagement where food plays a central role in the experience is more your speed, Beit é Selam is a hop, skip and a jump across the street from The Alchemist. One of the things that Nairobi loves about Beit é Selam is that distinct vintage touch with a Habesha kiss that the owner Zelalem Teklewold has bestowed upon his place. You wouldn’t be faulted for thinking this venue is pure restaurant until you venture up to its sleek bar counter and explore the cocktail list. There, Mombasa is where it’s at (there is bias in this statement – it’s the city I’m from – but I’m talking about a drink on Beit’s menu here, not a destination on your Kenya trip). Mombasa’s structure is Manhattanesque with coastal spices infused in the vermouth and bourbon taking centre stage. Also worth noting that the team at Beit are among the few who are pioneering the listing of mezcal on their cocktail menus. Do not leave Beit without trying the agave spirit-based Sawa Sour.

Clockwise from top: Salty Squid on Diani beach; below and bottom right: Drinks at Funky Monkey; Centre: The obligatory cocktail-in-hand beach shot at Salty Squid.

Jack's Bar at Soames Hotel

THE GATEWAY TO MOUNT KENYA

THE BEACH DESTINATION

There’s something about whiling away your time staring at the majestic but very static Mount Kenya. She is a sight to behold. Nanyuki is a bustling trading town at the foot of Mount Kenya, and when you combine the serenity of the setting with a delicious Whisky Sour from Jack’s Bar at Soames Hotel, the world almost immediately transcends into being a better place. The area is home to rare wildlife and some of the most skilled mountain climbing guides you will ever meet – but, like I said before, if mountain climbing isn’t your thing, the bar at Soames has you covered.

Did you know that Diani beach is one of the top beaches in Africa? Don’t worry, no one does and we low-key want to keep it that way. It’s just one-hour by plane from Nairobi – no sooner than you’ve started your quick nap en route, you’ll be touched down and on your way to your hotel or Airbnb. There is a plethora of places to eat and drink in Diani but for some impressive cocktails you absolutely must head to Funky Monkey and The Salty Squid (owned by the same people). A current favourite at Funky is the Hibiscus & Ginger Mezcalita. (There she goes again, making waves on the Kenya scene.

Nanyuki

Diani

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Mezcal.) When you’ve had a long one and just want to feel your toes in the sand and the calming effect of tropicalia in your life, a sure-fire bet at The Salty Squid is the Pineapple Cinnamon Daiquiri. Hal and Ollie, the directors of the two bar restaurants, are a couple of ex-UK hospitality professionals who became enchanted with the beauty of Diani beach while on holiday. Within a calendar year they had packed up their lives in the UK and moved out to Diani to start their new ventures. They pushed through the pandemic, taking on the noble work of keeping the team afloat in those uncertain times and now, they are rocking the coastal scene with a touch of world flair in all of their expressions.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

One more night…

When your Kenya adventure is coming to an end, it’s advisable to stay at least one more night in the capital. You will need to visit that trinket store one last time, there’ll be a local dish that you will want to try again, and you mustn’t leave Nairobi before you have a bite to eat and a cocktail in the Trademark Hotel. Hero Bar sits on the 9th floor of the Trademark and is currently Africa’s best bar according to the 50 Best extended list. The perfect serve here is good company, a healthy appetite, a decent camera on your phone and a curious palate. The offering is simply delicious. It’s not winning awards by accident. The theme at Hero is, you guessed it, comic book hero celebration meets retro meets pan Asian cuisine. Kelvin Thairu leads the beverage programme and his level of creativity and ability to impart his knowledge to his team via boss lady Moe Riungu is palpable. There are too many tasty dishes to recommend for this writing and far too many drinks, boozy and not, to talk about – but if you have to drink one thing for the sweet memory of your liquid journey in Kenya, it’s the Boy

Scout Ol’ Fashion. It’s bourbon, a toasted marshmallow and enough smoke to make Snoop a proud Dogfather. Sip on that. Get your bill. Head off where you’re going and remember, if that’s Kenya’s level now, imagine how good it’ll be when you come back.

Special mentions

I have to doff my cap to the founders of the Tamarind Group & Carnivore Restaurant – Martin Dunford and friends. In my living memory, a cocktail in Kenya is synonymous with the Carnivore Dawa. A Dawa in Kenya is a twist on a Caipiroska made with runny honey, Mombasa limes and vodka. The Dawa has a special swizzle stick which you can only find at the Tamarind Group. We have several

AMANI-NATION / UNSPLASH

Above Hero; Top right: A traditional Dawa; Below: Nairobi at dusk

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interpretations of the Dawa all over the country but for the real thing, you need to take some time out of your adventures to go to Carnivore in Nairobi or Tamarind in Mombasa. The Dawa is the most popular Kenyan cocktail as it were and is the foundation for the contemporary set of drink makers you will meet on your journey here. So, Martin, Jan and the team, here’s looking at you kids. (Mimics Sammy Davis Jr salute.) In addition to the people and places mentioned in this article, to better understand who’s doing stuff and things on the Kenya scene be sure to check out: Angel Rivera’s work at Onza; Women Who Whiskey; the Nairobi Bar School run by J Mwawaka; Mixologist Mike; and Salty’s on the Creek in Kilifi.

PARTING SHOT

RAISING THE STEAKS The restaurant chain upping the mixology game

LAT EE F P H OTOG R A P H Y

There was a time when the Gaucho restaurants’ cocktail list was all Lychee and Porn Star Martinis. Not any more. Under the guidance of former director of The World’s 50 Best Bars, Mark Sansom, together with Gaucho bar operations manager Theo Konstantopoulos, the brand-new menu sees them aiming for the Best Restaurant Cocktail Menu in the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards list. And do you know what? They could actually bloody win it. Called The Spirit of Argentina, the 22-strong list features some outstanding drinks including the Wagyu Martini with Burnt Lemon Oil (perfect with those steaks), Yerba Maté Jasmine Fizz and Miso Mango Sour. And to prove how serious they are, the group have equipped all 20 UK sites out with the sort of kit that would make most bartenders drool: centrifuges, dehydrators, homogenisers, the lot. Oh, and a photo shoot of said drinks with top photographer Lateef Okunnu. gauchorestaurants.com

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