The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 50 Autumn 2024 by The Cocktail Lovers

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 50

ISSN 2052-059X

Let’s talk!

Smooth operators

Stories behind the concepts

Insights from our favourite interviews

PAGE 54

PAGE 24

PAGE 46

Cover to cover

50 people who have changed the way we drink

WELCOME

hello cocktail lover! They say that if you do something you enjoy doing, you’ll never work a day in your life. Well, that’s not strictly true but I get the gist. In the 13 years that the hubby and I have been producing The Cocktail Lovers magazine, we’ve probably worked harder than we’ve ever done in our lives. Late nights, early mornings, crazy deadlines, writer’s block, using savings to support the company and paying suppliers rather than paying ourselves – those are the things that people don’t see, the things that test if you’re in it for the right reasons. But what drives us is this is our business, our passion, our baby and like the proud parents that we are, we’re both doing it because we absolutely love it. It’s been a very well-behaved child has this magazine, growing from a shy online newborn into an assertive teen clad in glossy print. It matured into something more refined during its adult years, not just in looks – less shine, more polish – but also in format, focus and reach. And now, here we are on our 50th issue. To celebrate, we’ve chosen to highlight 50 things that, during the period that we’ve been producing our magazine, have shaped drinks culture into the burgeoning scene that it is today. From seemingly little things like the prevalence of cocktail books and drinks paraphernalia on the high street, to big issues such as addressing sustainability and inclusivity in the bar – some in soundbites, others more long form. I’d like to thank everyone who has been on this journey with us, from our fantastic contributors and equally fabulous guests, to our brand partners and amazing sub-editor Laura Hill and art director Scott Bentley. But most of all, we’d like to thank you, our readers – thank you for the love.

, MS S

When we produced our very first issue of this magazine in October 2011, The Cocktail Lovers had already existed as a resource online for three years. The idea had always been that we, as two people, were The Cocktail Lovers and we wanted to share the incredible things we were discovering in the drinks world with other cocktail lovers like ourselves. And boy was there a lot to be discovered. So much so that the idea of our magazine was born – a focal point for this increasingly inspiring cocktail world. We did no market research, we simply set out to create the magazine we would want to read, and which embodied our values, to be informative, entertaining and inclusive. Over the years it has naturally evolved, in look, feel and, most importantly, the topics we cover and the themes we explore. It has also been rewarding to pick up a few awards for our publication along the way. But we derive most satisfaction from the feedback we get from fellow cocktail lovers, whether people in the drinks world itself or those who enjoy a great bar and mixing something interesting at home (after all, that’s how we started). With this 50th issue we felt it was the perfect time to reflect on some of the highlights of 13 years of publication. And as with any milestone, it’s also an opportunity to look to the future. As I said earlier, The Cocktail Lovers is an idea about sharing our passion, and we look forward to sharing it in all kinds of ways in the years ahead. For now, as ever, we hope you enjoy the read.

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contents 08 Full house

The Cocktail Lovers magazine in covers

10 Musings on…

Cocktails on TV, the high street and in bottles and cans

10 things that we’re loving right now

New venues, new additions to our wardrobes and new spirits for the season

38 Infused with celebrity spirit Laura Foster on the effect that the growing number of celebrity brands are having on the drinks industry

Musings on…

Social media, plastic straws and drinks packaging, Siobhan Payne and Hannah Sharman-Cox on 15 years of London Cocktail Week

24 Let’s talk

From bartenders and chefs to perfumers and futurologists, we’ve spoken to some fascinating people over the years. Here we share insights from some of our favourite interviews

changing face of 42 The whisky

Becky Paskin, founder of OurWhisky Foundation, celebrates the spirit’s radical makeover

people who have the way we drink 46 50changed

Tastemakers, storytellers, educators – just some of the many people who have impacted our drinking habits in the past few years

Bitter truths

How a simple threeingredient cocktail has risen through the ranks to become a 100-year-old overnight sensation

Drinking differently: the rise and rise of low and no

What the cool kids are drinking and why

thinking for 52 Fresh thoughtful drinking

Alex Francis from De Vie on the farm-to-glass approach to cocktails in bars

The cult of bar awards

52 The Cocktail Girl & Guy She is in the Isle of Man, he’s in Mallorca – two locations that would never have been on their radars when The Cocktail Lovers launched in 2011

Mark Sansom, former content director of The World’s 50 Best Bars, on the positives and pitfalls of bar awards

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28 From baroque to bare minimalism

Clinton Cawood looks back at the evolution of drinks serves over the past 13 years

Issue 50 Autumn 2024 Editors Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Creative director Scott Bentley – Bentley Creative Copy editing Laura Hill Stephanie Jones Cover Design Bentley Creative Contributors Priyanka Blah, Clinton Cawood, Laura Foster, Alex Francis, Clotilde Lataille, Rob Lawson, Becky Paskin, Mark Sansom

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com

Find us:

TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information. The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

Mains & Martinis

Destination Asia

Make time for a Connaught Bar Martini

One tried-and-tested restaurant bar that never disappoints and two new favourites

Priyanka Blah looks at how Asian bars have emerged as major players in the global hospitality scene

Life’s too short not to

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PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY SUBSCRIBE! FOR JuST £17.50

CONTRIBUTORS

LAURA FOSTER

ALEX FRANCIS

BECKY PASKIN

MARK SANSOM

Laura is an award-winning freelance editor, journalist and copywriter specialising in drinks, food and travel. Formerly deputy editor of Imbibe (UK) and bars and drinks editor of SquareMeal, she has had work published in a variety of titles including Decanter, Club Oenologique, Drinks Retailing News, Vice, CLASS Magazine and Waitrose. Laura has also worked as a project management specialist for global brands.

From running a weekly market selling local produce at university in Sheffield to working with farmers to create cocktails in Parisbased bars, Alex has always been committed to working with local producers. It’s a passion which he carried out to great effect at Little Red Door in Paris where he was director of bars. Currently he is working with Barney O’Kane on their soon-to-beopened De Vie bar.

Award-winning whisky journalist and founder of the OurWhisky Foundation, Becky was formerly editor of leading online magazine Scotchwhisky.com and global trade title The Spirits Business. Her writing appears in publications from Club Oenologique to Waitrose and she is a regular drinks presenter for ITV’s Love Your Weekend and This Morning. This year Becky was named a Tales Catalyst 2024.

In this issue: Celebrities come under the spotlight in their quest to win fans over with their spirit brands.

In this issue: Alex writes about a subject very close to his heart – farm-to-glass cocktails in top bars.

In this issue: Becky shares her joy for the new wave of whisky producers who are embracing modern audiences.

Mark started his journalism career at restaurant guide SquareMeal, before becoming food and drink editor at Men’s Health magazine. After five years as global editor of Food and Travel magazine, he moved on to run the events and content programme for The World’s 50 Best Bars where he grew the brand across three continents, launching The World’s 50 Best Hotels and 50 Best Discovery. He is now marketing director at Rare Restaurants Group.

Infused with celebrity spirit: page 38

Fresh thinking for thoughtful drinking: page 52

The changing face of whisky: page 42

SUBSCRIBE! F One year, four issues F Printed on high-quality paper F Delivered direct to your door F Plus free access to digital issues

JUST £17.50 Visit thecocktaillovers.com/ magazine or scan the QR code for details

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The cult of bar awards: page 36

In this issue: Mark writes on the delicate subject of bar awards – are they worth it?

Celebrating 13 years of innovation, inspiration and admiration – for the drinks scene and each other.

B E TH C RO C K AT T AT A RT E S IA N, LON DON

IN THIS SPECIAL EDITION WE’VE HIGHLIGHTED 50 (ISH) THINGS THAT HAVE COMBINED TO MAKE THE INDUSTRY BIGGER, BETTER AND STRONGER THAN EVER. POUR YOURSELF SOMETHING DELICIOUS AND DIVE IN TO FIND OUT MORE…

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FULL HOUSE

50 editions, 50 covers, 50 love letters dedicated to the people, places and products elevating the world of drinks. The latest instalment starts here…

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 50

ISSN 2052-059X

Cover to cover

Let’s talk!

Smooth operators

PAGE 54

PAGE 24

PAGE 46

The inspiring stories behind the concepts

Insights from our favourite interviews

50 people who have changed the way we drink

SM L UU GS I H N EGRS E

CoCKtAILS ON TV You wait decades for a television show about cocktails then two come along at once. Typical! 2022 was the year that Netflix brought us Drink Masters, the reality show described by host Tone Bell as “the greatest happy hour in the world”. Like MasterChef and others of that ilk, the show pitched 12 competitors (11 bartenders, one IG influencer) from across North America against each other and eliminated one hopeful in each episode. LP O’Brien from Washington DC (pictured) was the overall winner, bagging herself a nifty $100,000 as well as the considerable exposure that’s come with the title. Season one is still available on Netflix, season two is on the way. Over on Prime Video there was Mixology Masters, the Canadian version, which we assume followed the same format but can’t confirm as we were unable to watch in our region. No matter; the point is, there’s a thirst for the colour, creativity and theatre behind the crafting of cocktails and we predict it won’t be long before cocktails hit mainstream TV.

The COcktaiLIsaTion of the high Street The first inkling we had that cocktails were going mainstream was when British high-street supermarket chain Sainsbury’s announced it was introducing dedicated cocktail bays to its major stores nationwide. Not just spirits, we might add, but liqueurs, glassware and shakers. That was in May 2011. Since then stores of every genre, from high end to high street, food to fashion, hardware to homes, have got in on the act, offering everything from designer cocktail rings and dresses, to Art Deco-inspired drinks trollies and all of the requisite paraphernalia to kit them out with. The moral of the story? Cocktails aren’t just for the discerning few, they’re part of life. Fact. 10

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RTD cocktails got Sexy 4

As far as we’re concerned, ready-to-drink cocktails BC (before Covid) were all Bacardi Breezers and Smirnoff Ice. Which was fine if you liked Bacardi Breezers and Smirnoff Ice, but not so much if, like us, your palate preferred drinks that tasted like they could have been made anywhere near a bar. Then along came lockdown, and with bars closed and bartenders looking for outlets for their creativity, a new wave of quality RTD cocktails were born.

Maybe Sammy Cocktails: Beautiful bottles you’ll want to keep long after the drinks are gone, from the awardwinning Maybe Sammy team in Sydney. maybesammycocktails.com Whitebox Cocktails: Small cans, big-time flavour and attitude. whiteboxcocktails.com

Tayēr + Elementary: Cool, clever twists on select classics. tayer-elementary.com

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That we're LOving right now We’ve always had a huge Martini glass-shaped space in our hearts for Simon Ford and his superb Fords Gin. Now that he’s found a permanent brand home inside the newly relocated Thames Distillers in Bermondsey, said hole is well and truly fixed. Not only is the gin made on the premises, it’s where trade guests can experience the famous Fords hospitality at the gorgeous bar designed by Leo Robitschek and Zoe Masterton-Smith. Fret not if you’re not on the guest list, private hire is also available. fordsgin.com

Numero uno on our list of stylish things to add to our wardrobes this season: this cool combo designed by one of our absolute favourite bartender/owners in the whole wide world, monsieur Remy Savage. Made to order by Tan at LaneFortyFive, the nifty two-piece is just the right balance between practical and elegant, casual and chic, and yours in a matter of weeks. Swoon. lanefortyfive.com

Cocktail-loving 8 Londoners rejoice: Renato ‘Tato’ Giovannoni of the wonderful Florería Atlántico in Buenos Aires is in town. But only until 5 November… Join him on the spectacular rooftop at The Emory X Tato popup for a winning mix of cocktails bursting with Argentine flavours. the-emory.co.uk

The reason we’re switching up our tonic game isn’t just because these bottles look fabulous, they’re practical too. Made from glass recycled from old wine bottles and windscreens, they optimise storage space, while the tonics inside feature superfood ingredients and taste bloody gorgeous to boot. curius.com

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ON OUR RADAR

10 We love apples, even more when they’re in cocktails. Try The Golden Apple (Courvoisier VSOP Cognac, AkashiTai Umeshu, yuzu, Chardonnay, honey and apple cordial) on the brand-new The Yellow Book: Volume II menu at The Aubrey. @theaubreylondon

We also recommend the 9 recently reopened Oriole in London’s Covent Garden. Upstairs is all light and informal with refreshing cocktails on tap, while downstairs is giving decadent supper club vibes. Cue live music, delicious food and deeper, more contemplative cocktails. Date night – in fact, any night – sorted. oriolebar.com

TOP TIPPLES FROM SUNNY CLIMES TO WARM YOUR COCKLES THIS WINTER:

11 El Dorado Single Still Port Mourant Madeira Dry Cask Finish (Guyana). A sublime rum, distilled in a heritage double wooden pot still, aged in bourbon casks and finished in French oak madeira casks. theeldorado. rum.com

Takamaka Le Clos Napa Laz Rum (Seychelles). The latest in the Le Clos Series, this limitededition bottling is bursting with citrussy zing, juicy, exotic fruit and an intriguing hint of spicy green peppercorn. takamaka rum.com

Casa Barú Double Crop Rum (Panama). New to the UK and the first time that this complex, aromatic rum is available outside of Panama, Casa Barú is made from locally grown artisanal sugarcane syrup and distilled in copper pot stills. casa-baru.com

Back to The Emory… We’re saving up to stay at the suite-only hotel just so we can spend time in its cigar room. We’ve never seen one quite like it. Brought to life by interior designer extraordinaire Rémi Tessier, it’s part Austin Powers, part James Bond, and the room oozes glam in a sexy, state-of-the-art, 1970s way. It’s the perfect spot to sit back and enjoy one of Tato’s cocktails. the-emory.co.uk

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SM L UU GS I H N EGRS E

GETTING SOCIAL Never underestimate the power of social media. Yes, IG, X, TikTok and the likes are places to voice opinions and show pretty images, but more than that, they’ve worked wonders for brand building, networking and marketing – sharing ideas and joining the dots between bars and bartenders from all corners of the world.

SOCIAL CLIMBERS: ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW ON INSTAGRAM ➜ Simone Caporale 101K @simonecaporale_ ➜ Danil Nevsky 93.5K @cocktailman ➜ LP O’Brien 60.5K @lpdrinksdc ➜ Erik Lorincz 60.1K @eriklorincz ➜ Julie Reiner 50K @mixtressnyc

Saying ‘no’ to plastic straws

rethinking pacKAging

Remember when plastic straws in drinks were a thing? Not any more. Popularised in the 1960s, demonised by 2019, single-use plastic straws are out, drinking with a conscience is in.

All this talk about the provenance and misuse of plastic straws is all well and good but what about the elephant in the room? Drinks packaging? Did you know, in 2020, the world produced 70 billion units of single-use glass wine and spirits bottles? Or that recycled glass bottles use 75% of the energy required to make new ones? Neither did we until the folk at ecoSPIRITS told us. Set up with the aim of eliminating the carbon footprint of spirits consumption, ecoSPIRITS’ distinctive ecoTOTES (above) are a sign that spirit brands

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and producers, distributors and venues take the issue of eliminating single-use packaging and carbon emissions seriously. Get this: each 4.5L ecoTOTE replaces and can eliminate up to 1,000 single-use glass bottles over its lifespan, thanks to its consciously clever circular packaging technologies. Then there’s paper, as trialled by brands like Absolut, Avallen and World of Zing. Called Frugal Bottles, they’re made from 94% recycled paperboard with a food-grade pouch and are five times lighter than glass, have six times lower carbon footprint and use up to 77% less plastic than traditional plastic bottles. Earlier this year supermarket chain Aldi got in on the act, launching the first supermarket own-brand paper wine and gin bottles. Expect more to follow suit.

TA RA WI NSTE A D / P EX E LS

right now, we’re all about showcasing our local, homegrown talent and making sure London Cocktail Week gives our guests a chance to see just how GREAT the industry truly is here. This means we’ve added new elements, like the Connoisseur’s Collection, which allows us to work in partnership with the more high-end venues that aren’t able to meet the wristband price point; and The Bartender Knowledge Exchange, which is peer-to-peer learning hosted in top venues by the city’s greatest bartending talent.

Word up With Siobhan Payne + Hannah Sharman-Cox Founders of London Cocktail Week

C H A R LI E M C K AY

When did you launch London Cocktail Week? It launched in 2010 as a showcase of the London hospitality scene and the great bars, bartenders and cocktails that are found here. It was immediately apparent that consumers wanted to know more about what to drink and where to drink it and London Cocktail Week gave them the perfect opportunity. Fifteen years later – it’s still going strong. The Cocktail Lovers magazine launched a year later, during London Cocktail Week 2011. What are your memories of the scene back then? The event scene specifically was very different all that time ago. It was a time when if you asked nicely for something and that person could see it might be a ‘good addition’ to whatever it was they were up to, then things just – happened. The infrastructure of ‘pop-ups’ and ‘takeovers’ wasn’t there so there were very few examples to learn from. It also

meant there was much less commercial consideration – so we asked (nicely) for a space in Selfridges and they said yes. And then we asked (nicely) for a space in Seven Dials – and they said yes too. And then that became the blueprint. How has it evolved since then? It evolves all the time. It’s the only way that it can still be relevant and useful after 15 years and probably the only way we’re still sane! We definitely didn’t think we’d still be doing this after all this time! We’ve added lots of different layers over the years and given the annual festival different focuses, all dependent on the landscape of the bar and hospitality industry at the time. When we were in the midst of the pandemic, the festival was a month long to better support bar operators. Before that, when times were a bit more frivolous, there was a huge Cocktail Village giving brands a chance to showcase just how creative they could be within a blank space. But

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LCW has inspired cocktail weeks around the world. How does it make you feel to be the source of such a successful format? We love that ours has been the blueprint for cocktail weeks around the world! We often have people coming to us for advice for their own – and we’re more than happy to give it, our door is always open. People do definitely underestimate the amount of work it takes to put on a successful festival – but the ones we’re always the most impressed by are those that have really shaped their own event to be a perfect fit for their own city. It is definitely not a one size fits all. London is incredibly unique as the bar scene here is just so big; a smaller city needs to find its own format. We’d love to experience more cocktail weeks around the world – it’s a plan for next year! What are your proudest moments from the past 15 years? We’ve had quite a lot of proud moments including successfully (and responsibly) operating for both years of the pandemic. But our most recent proud moment was the decision to turn the festival into a not-for-profit event. So now supporting the bar industry underpins every decision we make. It means we can use this platform to be a good force for London’s bar community, which includes forming great partnerships such as our one with Equal Measures. We can also add initiatives such as enabling all bars to sell wristbands and keep 100% of the £20 revenue from each. We’re committed to ensuring London Cocktail Week continues to be the best example of a cocktail week globally. The Cocktail Lovers and Hannah and Siobhan will be guest ‘bartending’ with CLASS Magazine’s Hamish Smith and Drinks International’s Shay Waterworth at Nobu Portman Square on 11 October. londoncocktailweek.com

EveRyone’s invited Room has also been made at the table for people who may have previously felt they didn’t belong there. We’re talking people of colour, people who identify as ‘other’ and those of neurodivergent backgrounds. Not so much in the way of disabilities yet but we’re hopeful there’s more to come. In the meantime, Equal Measures and Be Inclusive Hospitality are brilliant sources for all things diversity and inclusion. equalmeasuresuk.org bihospitality.co.uk

HEAlth fiRSt

You know that thing 19 about putting your own life jacket on first? The duty of looking after yourself as well as you look after guests is now resonating with people working in hospitality. Claire Warner got the conversation around balancing health and wellness with late nights and alcohol started when she launched her Drink, Eat, Live initiative in 2011. Since then Camille Vidal (La Masion Wellness), Tim Etherington-Judge (Healthy Hospo) and Alex Jump (Focus on Health) and more besides have done wonders to keep the positivity going. lamaisonwellness.com healthyhospo.com fohealth.org

SpiriTEd woMen We’ll stop banging on about it when it’s no longer an issue; until then let’s hear it for the fact that women are taking up space, making their voices heard and kicking some serious ass in the drinks industry. Shout out to Speed Rack the speedbased, fun-packed, women-only

cocktail competition that launched in 2011, and to the growing number of support groups that have been set up to connect and empower women and womxn ever since. speed-rack.com celebrateher.me theadacolemanproject 16 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 50

C LOC KWI S E F RO M TOP : EB O N I M AJ O R, W H IS KE Y D ISTIL L E R ; S H R E YA BAS U, BARTE N D E R ; R E U BE N C LAR K , H E AD OF R&D

MUSINGS

CoMpEtitivE edge If we were tasked with putting a bartender/owner man band together, a line-up comprising Eric van Beek (left), GN Chan (centre), Steve Schneider, Shingo Gokan (right) and Moe Aljaff would be a pretty safe bet. They’re all great performers, have done more than their fair share of touring the circuit and each comes with a dedicated fan base. What would they be called? How about Bacardi Bros? After all, taking part in the Bacardí Legacy Global Cocktail Competition is where they all got their major breaks. We’ve always been fascinated by the power of cocktail competitions. What they can do in terms of boosting confidence, raising profiles and building careers is off the scale. Bacardí Legacy (RIP) is a case in point. All five in our ‘man band’ showcased their bartending skills and marketing talents in this legendary competition. Some, like Eric, GN and Shingo took the top prize in the years they competed while others, like Steve and Moe, used the exposure gained from participating in the contest as a springboard to build their personal brands, open bars and become global superstars. Forget K-pop, we’re talking alco-pop being top of our charts.

LOcal heROES

Let’s hear it for the renewed appreciation of and respect for local spirits, such as grappa, ouzo, tsipouro, aquavit and the likes, now being embraced by younger brands and refined, revamped and given the TLC they deserve.

All bar none

A tASte of home Staying with local tastes, we love the way that bartenders have taken to heroing indigenous ingredients in their drinks. A big shout out to Native in Singapore, Sastrería Martinez in Peru and Bekeb in Mexico, to name a few of these heritage-driven bars. tribenative.com sastreriamartinez.com bekebsma.com

When we started out, we could count the number of trade shows and consumer cocktail weeks on one hand. Now? You’d be hard pushed to find a country without one. From the Amalfi Coast to Zurich, Albania to Vietnam, cocktail culture is everywhere. And of course, we say amen to that!

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TCL PARTNER

here’s a whole lot of thinking, passion and ambition behind SIP, the advocacy programme from Pernod Ricard. An acronym for Share, Inspire, Pioneer, it brings these three compelling words together with one big intention: to connect, inform and empower the global hospitality industry. Already up and running in a number of markets including Germany, France, Spain, China and Vietnam, SIP gets its UK debut this autumn. And when better to set it in motion than during London Cocktail Week? “We’re incredibly excited to launch the SIP platform to the UK, it’s a huge opportunity to bring people together,” says Jon Hepplestone, Pernod Ricard UK advocacy manager. “London Cocktail Week has such a huge following and recognition within the industry and it’s a pleasure to be involved with it and showcase SIP in the UK.” He and the SIP UK team will be taking over The Apartment at The Hoxton hotel in Holborn for two days of SIP Sessions on 7 and 8 October. Informal in feel but incredibly informative for those in attendance, the carefully curated programme is packed with roundtables, discussion panels and seminars, all led by industry experts. Among the topics guaranteed to spark interest, conversations and ideas is ‘AI in Hospitality’ – a seminar which will see authority on the subject Peter van Jaarsveld sharing useful tips on how to use AI in everything from drinks development to formulating new concepts for a bar. For those looking to start their own business, there’s ‘From Bar Back to Bar Owner’, with three people who know more about the subject than most: JJ Goodman, Matt Dakers and Hebe Richardson. Anna Sebastian,

SIP SWAP SHOP RUNS THROUGHOUT THE TWO DAYS

SHARE. INSPIRE. PIONEER. WELCOME TO SIP UK Listen. Watch. Learn. Join the conversation. Share your ideas, master your skills, grow your community, shape the future of the industry. Join SIP. join-sip.com

Clotilde Lataille and Lottie Malin will be talking about their personal experiences in ‘Trailblazing Women: Navigating Careers in the Drinks Industry’. And Joerg Meyer will be arguing the toss with Nathan Larkin and Tyler Zielinski in the sure-to-be-popular session, ‘Classics vs Creations – What Do Consumers Want?’ “It’s very much about sharing and inspiring, but not just for pioneers – we want to bring the whole community together,” Jon continues. “This is an opportunity for bars and bartenders to learn something new, meet new people and inspire each other. The more we can inspire each other, the better for the entire industry.” It’s not all chat though. Also on the agenda is a 40-minute breathwork session with founder of La Maison Wellness, Camille Vidal, while the SIP Swap Shop gives everyone the opportunity to trade in their old merchandise for something new. Up for grabs, a limited-edition Jameson football shirt, an Altos jacket, a SIP tee designed in collaboration with Hephee and plenty more. You’ll have a chance to personalise your brand-new item, while the old kit will be recycled into something cool by Neem London. Away from The Apartment, a series of takeovers running in the evenings,

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include Joerg and Nathan serving a selection of classics (Joerg) and innovative (Nathan) at Happiness Forgets; Agave a Go Go at Side Hustle with the teams from Limantour from Mexico City, Candelaria from Paris and Leyenda from Brooklyn; and a shift from Speak in Code at Happiness Forgets. “It’s going to be a really exciting couple of days and the events taking place during London Cocktail Week are just the start of what we have planned,” Jon confirms. “We’re really looking forward to bringing industry topics to the forefront. We’re incredibly lucky to have built relationships with a wealth of top bars in the UK and the UK roll-out of SIP will allow us to work even more closely with industry experts across the country. Together, we will inspire each other to create the hospitality industry of the future.”

THE PROGRAMME 7 October

8 October

11:30 12:00

13:00 14:00

15:00 15:30 16:30

Welcome Mindful Drinking – with Camille Vidal (La Maison Wellness) Top 50 Aspirations – with Dan Garnell and La’Mel Clarke (Seed Library, London) and Coral Anderson (Swift, London) From Bar Back to Bar Owner – with JJ Goodman (The Cocktail Club, nationwide), Matt Dakers (11th & Social, Norwich) and Hebe Richardson (Soda & Friends, London) Break at the bar AI in Hospitality – with Peter van Jaarsveld (Oliver Agency) From Waste to Taste: The Silo Story – with Douglas McMaster (Silo, London)

Welcome Breathe Easy: Bartender Wellness – with Camille Vidal (La Maison Wellness) 13:00 Trailblazing Women: Navigating Careers in the Drinks Industry – with Anna Sebastian (Celebrate Her/freelance consultant), Clotilde Lataille (Pernod Ricard) and Lottie Malin (Lab 22, Cardiff) 14:00 Inclusive Teams, Exceptional Experiences – with Javan Heaney (Red Light, Manchester), Nicky Craig (Panda & Sons, Edinburgh) and Vicky Ilankovan (Equal Measures) 15:00 Break at the bar 15:30 Classics vs Creations – What Do Consumers Want? – with Joerg Meyer (Le Lion, Hamburg), Tyler Zielinski (freelance journalist/consultant) and Nathan Larkin (Speak in Code, Manchester) 16:30 Agave on the Rise – with Carlos Londoño (Café Pacifico, London), Deano Moncrieffe (Hacha, London) and Steve Olson (Del Maguey)

All talks and seminars take place at The Hoxton, Holborn. For a full list of takeovers and to book sessions, visit londoncocktailweek.com PLEASE ENJOY PERNOD RICARD PRODUCTS RESPONSIBLY.

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SpiritEd away

Aquavit made in Wales, sake brewed in England, rum from Scotland? What the hell is going on? Forget old stuffy demarcation rules, these days there are none. The only limit to making quality spirits is money (lots thereof), time (ditto) and your imagination (obvs). Dare to drink differently and take your pick from the following:

RUM

SAKE:

Matugga Rum, Scotland, matuggarum.com Barra Island Dark Rum, Scotland, isleofbarradistillers.com Three Oaks Distillery Welsh Rum, Wales, thethreeoaksdistillery.com

Kanpai Sake, England, kanpai.london Dojima Sake Brewery, England, dojimabrewery.co.uk SoGood Sake, USA, sogoodsake.com

WHISKY

ABSINTHE

Stauning Whisky, Denmark, stauningwhisky.com Three Ships Whisky, South Africa, threeshipswhisky.co.za Abasolo El Whisky De Mexico, Mexico, abasolowhisky.com Fielden Rye Whisky, England, fielden.com

Devil’s Botany London Absinthe, England devilsbotany.com

5 modeRn cLASSiCS boRn in the UK since 2011

Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew, Hawksmoor, London (2012) ‘Shaky’ Pete Jeary’s clever combo of homemade ginger syrup, lemon juice and London Dry gin, topped with London Pride ale, truly does refresh the parts that other drinks fail to reach. Enjoy it in all 10 Hawksmoor restaurants around Britain, as well as the outlets in Dublin, Chicago and New York. thehawksmoor.com

Champagne Piña Colada, Coupette, London (2017) Created by Chris Moore for the bar’s opening in 2017, this awardwinning drink has been on the menu ever since. With good reason – it’s heaven in a glass. Creamy and comforting, smooth and seductive it combines rum, pineapple cordial, coconut sorbet and Champagne to create the ultimate take on the piña colada. coupette.co.uk

Mirror Margarita, Hacha, London (2019) So popular, it even has its own website as well as a listing in supermarket chain Sainsbury’s sites across the UK. Deano Moncrieffe’s Mirror Margarita gets its crystal-clear appearance by bringing together a mix of blanco tequila, cane syrup, a blend of citrus oils and malic acid to amazing effect. mirrormargarita.com

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One Sip Martini, Tayēr + Elementary, London (2019) Proof that good things come in small and deliciously formed packages is this exquisite Martini. Just the right amounts of vodka and Ambrato vermouth, a tot of fino sherry and, joy-oh-joy, a Gordal olive stuffed with gorgonzola lurking at the bottom of the glass as the ultimate reward. tayer-elementary.com

Adult Ribena, Passing Fancies, Birmingham (2023) Cheeky name for what is an absolute banger of a drink which the PF team describe as a super crushable take on a Sidecar. The mix of sour honey, blueberry, kumquat and cognac rightly won the Cocktail of the Year at the CLASS Bar Awards 2024. Try one and taste what the fuss is about. passingfanciesbar.co.uk

MUSINGS

LOng pLAyeRS 32

Opening a bar and being flavour of the month is one thing, keeping said bar going and staying relevant is something different entirely. We’ve seen many great cocktail bars come and go over the years and here’s where we get to celebrate those that were independent in spirit on the day they opened and still remain relevant 10-plus years on.

OUR PICK OF THE SEASON

BOOK CLUB 33

In 2011 you could count the number of cocktail books on the library shelves on one hand. Now? We defy you to keep up with the plethora of titles drilling down into the minutiae of drinks. What will The Cocktail Lovers come up with? Watch this space…

A MOST NOBLE WATER BY ANISTATIA MILLER AND JARED BROWN

2004

Forget everything you think you know about gin and its origins as drinks historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown debunk the myths and rewrite its fascinating story. Wise, witty and wonderful in equal parts. Highly recommended.

Employees Only, New York

2006

Bramble, Edinburgh

2007

Experimental Cocktail Club, Paris PDT, New York Ruby, Copenhagen

2008

Clover Club, Brooklyn Callooh Callay, London Bar High Five, Tokyo Tippling Club, Singapore

2009

Baba au Rum, Athens 69 Colebrooke Row, London

2010

Experimental Cocktail Club, London Happiness Forgets, London Nightjar, London Jerry Thomas Speakeasy, Rome

2011

Door74, Amsterdam Candelaria, Paris

BUBBLES: A GUIDE TO CARBONATED COCKTAILS

IN FINE SPIRITS: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO DISTILLED DRINKS

BY BART MIEDEKSZA AND VALENTINO GIROTTO The London-based duo have spent the past few years painstakingly researching everything bartenders need to know about the exacting process of producing perfect force-carbonated cocktails. Edited by Millie Milliken.

BY JOEL HARRISON AND NEIL RIDLEY The next best thing to sitting a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exam, this new book comes from previous winners of the Fortnum & Mason Drink Book of the Year. Inspiring and informative, it covers the history and culture, cocktails and characters behind all of the spirits in your drinks cabinet.

THE MARTINI: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO A COCKTAIL ICON BY ALICE LASCELLES

Anyone taking on a drink like the Martini better know their stuff and Alice, drinks columnist at the Financial Times, certainly knows hers. The book takes in 60 recipes from the 1880s to the present day with an array of anecdotes, fascinating facts and tips from top bartenders around the world.

THE WORLD ATLAS OF WHISKY

2012

BY DAVE BROOM

Little Red Door, Paris 1862 Dry Bar, Madrid

Can award-winning author and whisky expert Dave Broom have anything left to say on his favourite subject? After all, this is the third edition of the atlas that he’s written in 14 years. The answer is, a resounding ‘yes’. This fully updated edition explores the numerous new distilleries that have opened globally in the past decade and includes detailed tasting notes of 480 whiskies.

2014

The Clumsies, Athens Speak Low, Shanghai

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JOINt FORCES

How an increasing number of drinks companies are showing off their creativity by teaming up with synergistic brands

We’ve ‘oohed’ and ‘aahed’ over some incredible, very innovative collaborations with drinks brands and creative partners over the years. One of the earliest standouts was a pair of velvet and chrome killer heels created for Chambord by fashion designer Nicholas Kirkwood in 2012. Two years later, more footwear – but this time for men, in the shape of the ultimate speakeasy shoe from Oliver Sweeney. Get this: the limited-edition Oxford brogues concealed a teeny bottle of Johnnie Walker Red Label in the stacked heel and a tattoo of the iconic striding man logo. Statement shoes or what? There’s been food: Heinz x Absolut Vodka pasta sauce, launched last year, is probably

34 one of the latest; we’ve had tech – whisky brand Chivas Regal teamed up with premium audio brand LSTN Sound for their limitededition headphones, while Bushmills looked to Grado Labs for theirs. Both cleverly featured recycled whisky barrels in their collectable designs. And there have been luxury automobiles… Bowmore and Aston Martin have been in a solid relationship since 2020 and each year the masters from each brand team up to produce a covetable single malt. A particular highlight saw their exacting skills combine in an exquisite one-off collector’s item,

The luxurious ARC-52 decanter echoes the black rocks in the bay that is home to Bowmore Distillery

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the ARC-52. For the design of the sinuous decanter, the Aston Martin team took inspiration from the black rocks in the bay of Loch Indaal, the home of Bowmore Distillery. Inside? One of Bowmore’s oldest whiskies, an exceptionally rare 52-year-old single malt. FYI, the stunning creation sold for £225,000 at auction at Sotheby’s in 2023. This year, to dress their latest expression, Royal Salute have partnered with A-listers’ favourite and hotshot creative director of fashion brand Nina Ricci, Harris Reed. Fittingly launched during London Fashion Week A/W 2024, the Royal Salute 21 Year Old Harris Reed Edition really does look as good as it tastes.

CLEVER COLLABS

Top and bottom right: Malts with beats from Bushmills and Chivas; Clockwise from above: Harris Reed at work on his designs for Royal Salute; Killer heels from Nicholas Kirkwood for Chambord

Bottom: Heinz x Absolut Tomato Vodka & Pasta Sauce; Speakeasy shoes from Oliver Sweeney for Johnnie Walker Red Label

O All photographs taken from the original issues. Top right: Jack McGarry; Above: Jim Meehan

ver the course of our 50 issues we’ve been fortunate to interview a lot of incredible people. Many renowned bartenders, of course, but our desire to delve deeper into the world of premium spirits, hospitality and the culture of cocktail lifestyle led to intriguing conversations with an array of fascinating individuals – from chefs and authors to a futurologist, perfumer and F1 World Champion. So it’s an absolute pleasure to revisit some of these wonderful encounters. Two of our earliest interviewees are sadly no longer with us, making it particularly poignant to remember tequila expert Tomas Estes’ choice for a theme tune to his life: “There was a play called Hair in the 1960s with a song called What a Piece of Work is Man… I like it because it looks at the possibilities of

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mankind.” As for bartending legend gaz regan, we asked him: what is success? Answer? “Being happy.” Those early days also saw us catching up with three bartenders making waves in the cocktail world as they shared little-known facts about themselves. Andy Mil, then at London Cocktail Club, revealed he used to be a painter and decorator. While Agostino Perrone, director of mixology at The Connaught Bar, shared his inspirations, including Frank Sinatra, Marcello Mastroianni, Lake Como, Mexican pyramids, his late friend Henry Besant and his wife Gaby Moncada Peña. Perhaps most surprising though was his deference to a martial arts expert: “In most day-to-day situations I think, what would Bruce Lee do? And that guides me. It’s balanced, very spiritual and grounded.” As for Alex Kratena, at the time heading up Artesian at The Langham and fresh from picking up two Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards

J ON AT H A N M A N NI ON

Looking back at some of our favourite interviewees and the insights they shared

INTERVIEWS

DAVI D LOF T US, B EN M I L LA R CO LE, A L IS A CON N A N

accolades, he was in a teasing mood; when asked what makes him happy, his response included travelling, bartending and “a certain young lady I am in love with”. A certain Ms Berg as it later transpired. In 2013 we asked Jim Meehan, at the time owner of PDT in New York, for his observations on the changes in hospitality over the preceding 10 years. “In 2003 most guests would compare a great bartender to Tom Cruise in the movie Cocktail and tending bar was rarely the bartender’s primary focus. In 2013 Jerry Thomas is the new Tom Cruise… and many of your favourite bartenders went to college and choose to be a bartender because they enjoy the work.” Staying in the US, Julie Reiner, owner of Clover Club, also identified some changes among guests. “Consumers have become seriously educated from reading books and magazines – they know what they want, which forces bartenders to be at the top of their game. These days it’s hard for bartenders to fake it.” Around the same time, in 2014, one year after opening The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog, Jack McGarry told us

We’ve also spoken to a number of chefs over the years. In issue 14 we asked Jamie Oliver for his thoughts on pairing cocktails with food: “I think wine is losing its grip on being the only drink you can have with a meal. These days food pairing with beer is on the rise, and cocktails too. It’s all about the flavours… if the flavours work together, then both the food and the drink can be enhanced.” Later, we learned from Heston Blumenthal how drinks connect to multisensory experiences: “Visual cues and sound – for example, listening to classical music with a high pitch enhances sweet flavours, while low tones emphasise bitterness.” And more

“I’m a chef. But the truth is, I’m just a massive fan of bars. In fact, my dream was if I didn’t have a restaurant I would open a bar” what advice he would have given his younger self: “Be patient, be humble, work hard, learn from your mistakes and enjoy life.” In the same year we also sat down with the much-missed Dick Bradsell for an afternoon of chat and anecdotes. He told us how his friendship with Peter Dorelli saw him join the then head bartender of the American Bar at The Savoy for a shift one evening, saying it reminded him of the place where his career started: “It was like the Naval & Military Club [in Piccadilly], I felt right at home there!” What we would have given to be there on the night they were tending bar together.

Clockwise from top: Julie Reiner; Heston Blumenthal; Dick Bradsell; Jamie Oliver

recently Adam Handling, of Eve Bar, London and Ugly Butterfly, Cornwall, told us: “I’m a chef. But the truth is, I’m just a massive fan of bars. In fact, my dream was if I didn’t have a restaurant I would open a bar.” Staying with chefs, in 2018 we asked Monica Berg – at the time heading up Social Bar at Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social – what she had learned from them: “Bartenders trust the bottles, they’re the same all year round and everywhere in the world. But every morning chefs have to taste the produce and trust their palates – bartenders can learn a lot from following their lead.”

Clockwise from top: Jo Malone; Jenson Button; Thomaï Serdari; Dr Morgaine Gaye

between the physical world and the world of the imagination.” In fact, last year we dedicated an entire issue to the subject of storytelling around brands and bars. Alison Esse, co-founder of culture-change consultancy The Storytellers, told us: “Storytelling is a way of authenticating your promise. And as a brand, that’s key. You have to be authentic, or you’ll be found out.” Several bartenders have also given us an insight into what creating a bar is all about. When we first spoke to Leo

N ATH A N PA S K , RO D G OOD M A N

Equally intriguing was when perfumer Jo Malone gave us an insight into the inspiration for one of her creations: “I was sitting in the bar at the Four Seasons in New York. I was struggling with a fragrance called Mango – I wanted that just-peeled and pop-it-in-your-mouth scent. I noticed the bartender was using shots of things to make the perfect cocktail and wondered if I could take a ‘shot’ of a note and pour over the mango. I did. And it worked!” Another interesting professional crossover came from Jenson Button, former F1 World Champion, who explained how he came to co-found Coachbuilt Whisky: “There’s a real synergy between coachbuilding cars and blending whisky. So much precision is needed in both.” Predictions are a fascinating part of interviews too. Back in 2013, Experimental Food Society’s Alexa Perrin said to look out for a “rise in artisan spirits”. And in 2016, food futurologist Dr Morgaine Gaye looked ahead 10 years, predicting: “Plastic will be banned… and cocktails will offer a variety of benefits such as energy or relaxation.” We’ve also noted the increasing importance of storytelling, as luxury branding expert Thomaï Serdari pointed out in our luxe-themed issue in 2018: “Luxury is created through innovation from either the combination of ingredients or the presentation of the drink. The third ingredient comes from adding an element of storytelling to each drink. It can be a true story or something totally imagined but the truth is, even if we know it is imagined, we go to the bar because a whole new world is going to open up before us – it’s like a bridge

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INTERVIEWS

Robitschek he was bar director at the NoMad properties and Eleven Madison Park in New York. He went into a lot of detail about the pursuit of perfection but summed it up simply: “It’s all about love, care.” While Moe Aljaff, at the time one half of Two Schmucks, noted that lack of funds could be positive: “Creativity is absolutely one of the best things about opening a bar with little to no money.” And Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese,

who had just opened Velvet bar in 2022, observed: “We’re living in a world where we worry about everything, so when you decide to go out, you want to forget all the doom and gloom.” Creating the right environment is crucial too, as we heard from Virginie Boulenenger, an art programme curator for studio be-poles, in our ‘Art’ issue in 2021. Having just curated the collection for NoMad London, she explained how

and appreciate more what we can have on our doorstep, and we can do so by supporting locals.” Looking to the future too, is something we cannot ignore, as James Triffo, AI adviser and educator in drinks, pointed out: “The technology sector is in a constant state of evolution and adaption, and hospitality professionals need to be on board with learning, evolving and adapting.”

“We need to desire less what comes from the US and Europe and appreciate more what we can have on our doorstep…” bars and hotels increasingly had a residential vibe, “evoking the feeling of walking through a collector’s home”. Over the past year or so the themes of our issues have led to some particularly profound conversations. In our ‘Local’ issue, Fabio La Pietra, creative director at SubAstor in Brazil, stressed the importance of community: “It means helping farmers and producers who fight every day to keep their house standing and their land safe… we need to desire less what comes from the US and Europe,

While earlier this year, for our ‘Women in Drinks’ issue, we spoke to Mallory O’Meara, award-winning author of Girly Drinks: A World History of Women and Alcohol. She made many important and serious points but also raised a smile when sharing: “Whenever I get the opportunity, I poke fun at sexism because it’s inherently very silly.” Thanks to all of these interviewees, and countless others over the years, for their informative, entertaining and always thought-provoking stories.

Clockwise from top: Moe Aljaff; Fabio Le Pietra; Mallory O'Meara; Virginie Boulenenger

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Clinton Cawood looks at the many faces of cocktail serves

Above: One of the elaborate new serves on the menu at Nightjar; Right: Pared-back perfection at Silverleaf

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C O C K TA I L S

remember sipping a Dorian Gray-inspired cocktail while gazing at a close-up reflection of my face, amid opium incense smoke, the drink behind a mirror with a hole in it for the straw. This was at Artesian at London’s Langham hotel – of course – just over a decade ago. The age of conceptual, elaborate cocktails was in full swing – a movement that would influence cocktail creations around the world and, in the cyclical manner of all things, would lead to a more minimalist approach in the years to come. To be clear, when the team at Artesian installed a slushie machine and started garnishing drinks with taxidermy alligator heads, this was not how one went about things in a five-star hotel bar. “When I started at the Artesian, there was still a stereotype around what hotel bars were supposed to look like, summarised in two words: classic and elegant,” says Simone Caporale, who joined Artesian in 2010, remaining until he and the entire bar team famously resigned in 2015. “These venues weren’t known for breaking the rules.”

36 But times were changing, and rules were asking to be broken. The rise of social media encouraged styles of serve that would look good on those emerging platforms. “Social media was a very accessible opportunity to showcase what we were doing,” says Alex Kratena, head bartender at Artesian from its opening in 2007. “Agostino Perrone, Erik Lorincz and myself were among the first people in the industry who started to use Facebook to spread the word about what we’d been doing, and we benefited hugely,” he adds. There were economic considerations too. “The bar opened with an incredible budget,” says Kratena. “I thought, it’s a shame that this just goes to ‘other revenue’ on the profit and loss sheet, and doesn’t actually create anything – how could we create value as a hotel with this money that was there?”

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Kratena and Caporale had a shared background working in nightclubs. “A lot of the things we were doing were inspired by that,” says Kratena, remembering one serve involving a smoke-filled box that would light up when a hidden button was pressed. “People thought this was so revolutionary, but this is what nightclubs had been doing. We presented it in a more sophisticated way, but the element of fun and having good times was instrumental.” Around the same time, the team behind a very different London bar were no less dedicated to fun and good times, and were creating some elaborate serves of their own. The Cocktail Trading Company opened near Oxford Circus in 2014, later relocating to its current site on Bethnal Green Road. “I remember the bar being described as being like Artesian except everything’s from eBay, and truer words were never spoken,” says co-founder Elliot Ball.

C O C K TA I L S

“We were three broke-ass 24-year-olds launching a bar that we were extraordinarily lucky to have gotten our mitts on, but it meant that everything had to be done on an obscenely small budget.” Ball remembers purchasing 800 ceramic welly boots from Poundland: “Best £800 I ever spent.” Beyond financial factors, an evaluation of every aspect of cocktail creation informed their approach, he says. “I love coupes, but why aren’t we putting this very obviously Asian takeaway-inspired drink into a goddamn noodle box?” Inevitably, there was the influence of social media too. “Instagram was just becoming a marketing tool, and we couldn’t afford any PR, so a big part of the presentation style was knowing that we could essentially get our customers to do our marketing,” says Ball. Not far away, on Old Street Roundabout, another standard-bearer of the elaborate – and Instagram-friendly – cocktail serve had opened in 2010. Nightjar was helmed for its first five years by Marian Beke, responsible for the bar’s distinctive cocktail style. These were served in seashells, topped with candy floss, shrouded in smoke, and much more besides. “The baroque presentation of the cocktails became a key pillar in Nightjar’s reputation in the bar world,” says co-owner Edmund Weil. “Visuals, aromas, texture and flavour were all carefully hung together, with the end goal of sparking joy.” “We never looked at garnishes or glassware as a style, but rather as ingredients,” says Beke. He later implemented this approach at his London bar The Gibson, which he tells me is about to reopen, this time in Berlin. “It was important, and still is today, to create drinks more like concepts, where the story, the name, main spirit, glass and garnish all work together as one.”

Stripped-back style

Meanwhile, minimalism was on the horizon, in part a response to the lavish style that had come before it. “By 2016, we could see the way the wind was blowing,” remembers Weil, “hence our partnership with Bobby Hiddleston and Mia Johansson – whose style tended towards beautiful simplicity – to open Swift.” “I think there was a point where a lot of people stopped focusing on the liquid and it was all about the presentations,” says Kratena. “People started to ask, is it

Above: Federico Pavan with The Maestro at Donovan Bar; Below: ‘Spam’ cocktail from The Cocktail Trading Co; Right: Minimalism all the way at Three Sheets

time to strip it back, and as a result you saw this whole new style.” If there’s a bar that embodies this it’s Tayēr + Elementary, opened by Kratena and Monica Berg in 2019. “Elementary, the front part of our bar where everything comes in the same glass, has been described as almost like an anti-socialmedia bar, because it’s all about what you have in the glass, and the presentation is very utilitarian.” Not quite as extreme, the approach at Three Sheets in Dalston was nothing short of revolutionary when it opened in 2016. “It was about simplicity, about cleanness in everything, on every level – the design of the venue, the menu design, uniform…” says co-founder Max Venning. “There had been great growth in bartending, and the perception of it as a true profession, but for us the focus had become too much on the person behind the bar. We wanted the focus to be on the customer and the space where they interacted, so we didn’t light the back bar,

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and didn’t have any artwork,” he says. “That flowed into the idea for the style of the drinks as well – the liquid had to be exceptional, but they were clean and minimal.” The approach has evolved, says Venning, giving the example of a mango love heart to garnish the Pickled Mango Iced Tea at Three Sheets in Soho. “It’s a nice, fun touch and a natural development from the minimalism of before. I think people are looking for stuff that’s a bit more playful.” Another bar that has taken a minimalist approach from the outset is London’s Silverleaf. “It’s interesting, seeing how the industry has changed,” says general manager Liam Broom. “It used to be the bigger the better, and unique serves and dry ice and unusual garnishes and vessels, but I think the days of seeing things garnished inside a butternut squash with a goat skull are behind us. People realised it took a lot of time to set up those serves, and started moving that time behind the scenes.

At Silverleaf we’re dedicating 40-plus hours a week to making the liquid, but when it comes to service itself, it’s a quick stir-pour-garnish situation.” The bar’s five-star hotel setting plays a factor, he adds. “We’re charging £15, £16 per drink. To justify that you need to have a striking visual element, and for us a lot of that comes from the garnishes. They should be edible, should be pretty, and should add something to the drink,” Broom believes – which, at Silverleaf, means edible paint on glassware, honeycomb made in-house, and more.

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Elaborate evolution

Top: Stripped-back elegance at Sips; Centre: Lux cocktail at Mirror Bar; Above: Pineapple|Miso at Silverleaf

Caporale hasn’t exactly gone minimalist at his Barcelona bar Sips, but nor are the drinks there anything like the theatrical serves of old. “The playfulness has transformed into something a bit more logical, with a focus on glassware not only being beautiful but also having a purpose,” he says. Then there are those that continue to follow the theatrical school of cocktail presentation, bringing the style to the modern day, such as Barcelona’s Paradiso, Mirror Bar in Bratislava and Donovan Bar in London. Drinking from a vessel modelled on Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese’s head is an experience I fully expect to be writing about 10 years from now. For Mirror Bar’s ambassador, Stanislav Harciník, one of the motivations for the bar’s elaborate serves echoes that of the early days of Artesian, and its five-star hotel setting. “In Slovakia, hotel bars are not something that people have connected with for a go-to bar experience,” he says. “The idea is to showcase something unique, that is also visually appealing on social media, to serve as a call to action for people to visit.” The complex serves are, he says, a way of providing guests with an experience they wouldn’t have anywhere else. This means collaborating with local artisans to create vessels and sculptures for the bar. “In recent years, I feel the balance between minimalist and elaborate cocktails was lost,” he believes. “Now we see that we’ve missed some parts of the experience, which should include not only greatly executed ingredients, cocktails and storytelling, but also how the cocktails are served and presented.” The cyclical nature of trends notwithstanding, balance may indeed be the key to cocktail presentation, much as it is for the drinks themselves.

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TCL PARTNER

ELEVATED SERVES How De Kuyper liqueurs take cocktails to the next level

Left to right Chocolate Espresso Martini, Banana Bread Highball, Martini Noir, Strawberry Negroni, Pineapple Spritz PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

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Great bartenders love mixing classic cocktails, of course. But it’s innovation that inspires them. Alive to changing tastes and new trends, they are always looking for inspiration. New flavours, in particular, are what excites them, inspiring them to create their own new serves. With some 300 years of exceptional distilling experience, matched by a passion for innovation, De Kuyper has an incredible range of liqueurs to inspire bartenders to elevate every kind of drink they make.

Bringing innovative touches to the classics At its heart is the Essentials range that every bartender should always have at hand. Like the De Kuyper Crème de Cacao Brown liqueur, for example, which brings an enticing richness to a seductive chocolate spin on the iconic Espresso Martini. Or the De Kuyper Crème de Cassis liqueur, with an intense burst of rich blackberry that combines deliciously

with the spicy notes of rum in the exquisite Martini Noir.

Innovation to inspire creation De Kuyper also brings its vast distilling experience to some 20 inspiring expressions in its Variations selection. This is where the only limit is your imagination. Take the Negroni: it’s one of the world’s most popular cocktails, and adding a little De Kuyper Wild Strawberry into the mix balances its characteristic bitterness beautifully. Likewise, the ever-popular Spritz gets a taste of the tropical with a dash of De Kuyper Pineapple, taking it in a whole new and refreshing direction. And a match made in heaven is De Kuyper Banana liqueur meeting a little premium whisky, then lengthened with fiery ginger beer in the beautiful Banana Bread Highball. Given its quality, consistency and innovation, it’s hardly surprising that De Kuyper has been recognised as Liqueurs Producer of the Year by International Spirits Challenge, not once, but five years in a row. More tasty inspiration, a host of clever tips and full delicious details of the complete De Kuyper range can be discovered on the De Kuyper website. Take a look and take your cocktail creations to a whole new level. dekuyper.com

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PODCAST Join us as we share what we’re drinking, where we’re going, products we’re trying, the drinks books we’re reading and all manner of cocktail-loving goodness. Plus, we catch up with our favourite movers and shakers in the cocktail world.

SUBSCRIBE NOW! Just search “The Cocktail Lovers” wherever you listen and subscribe to your podcasts or scan the QR code to listen direct FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT THECOCKTAILLOVERS.COM/PODCAST

B E T H C R O C K AT T

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

BITTER TRUTHS

There are certain things in life that feel as though they’ve always been on our radar, and try as we might we cannot place when or where they first appeared. Such is the phenomenon that is the Negroni. Yes, we know its apparent origin courtesy of a certain count of the same name. Over a century since then, it’s now celebrated with its own dedicated week and is right up there in various top 10 lists of favourite cocktails in the world. We could write a book on this drink. But we won’t. A glance at our bookshelves shows we own several already, while an online search reveals plenty more. Instead, let’s take a look at the relatively more recent rise of this deceptively

simple three-ingredient drink. And let’s make it personal. Some 20 or so years ago we remember making a Negroni at home. We’d not read about it on a menu, because back then it didn’t feature in bars as far as we can recall. But we have a feeling we read about it somewhere. Possibly in Everyday Drinking by Kingsley Amis (where it warranted a very short but significant paragraph), maybe in a Bond novel or a recipe book (in the days when cocktail recipe books were rare). The attraction was those three ingredients: gin, sweet vermouth and Campari, but we had no idea of method, so we simply stirred it like a Dry Martini. We loved it and it became part of our personal repertoire.

the NegROni

C LOT I LD E LATA I LL E

a 100-year-old overnight sensation

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We continued to drink it at home, straight up, over the following years. Then a strange thing started to happen. We began to notice it on one or two menus at the better kind of bar. We were intrigued. We were also a little surprised to find that when we ordered one it was prepared over ice straight in the glass. It was shortly after this, in 2013, when we were occasional contributors to the Independent Online, that our commissioner asked us a question. “Have you heard of this drink some people are talking about called a Negroni?” We replied in the affirmative and were requested to submit a short piece on it. Looking back at the piece we wrote it’s interesting to note that one of our observations was, “it’s not as well known as it deserves to be”. Little did we know what was around the corner. Come 2019 and it had become big enough on the global stage that it’s official centenary warranted not just a single day, but a whole week of celebration. Coincidentally, at the time we happily happened to find ourselves in Italy. Every single bar we visited insisted that we try their version of the now ubiquitous drink. We lost count of how many we sampled. Around the same time we also found ourselves in the slightly less glamorous surroundings of our local Marks & Spencer, and there on the shelf was its own-brand premixed bottle. And today every single decent bar and restaurant probably offers one, not to mention many local pubs too. What a journey. The ability to be reinvented in countless variations is staggering too. We love the late Wayne Collins’ wonderful White Negroni, like the sound of Naren Young’s new Tropical Negroni and are always open to delicious experimentation. In a way, the rise of the Negroni, particularly over the past 12 or so years, mirrors the way cocktails in general have become increasingly mainstream. And we’re all for it. As for our Negronis at home. We still prefer ours stirred over ice and served straight up. Salute!

Ex 50 Best Bars Content Director Mark Sansom examines the positives, platitudes and pitfalls in the growth of a multimillion-dollar industry on both sides of the bar

t’s 10.48pm on 4 October 2022 on a sticky Barcelona night. The air conditioning has failed in the packed Las Arenas awards venue but some 1,200 bartenders, journalists, brand reps and hangers-on cram the room to watch Giacomo Giannotti and Margarita Sader of Paradiso embrace as it’s crowned The World’s Best Bar, as voted by The World’s 50 Best Bars Academy. “The moment itself was incredible,” says Giannotti. “It was the culmination of my life’s work and all the sacrifices I have made… As a bartender and bar owner, it’s the biggest thing you can achieve. To be able to share that moment with Margarita, my family, my team and all my peers was probably the best moment of my life.” Paradiso’s win in its hometown of Barcelona was a seminal moment in global bar awards history. For one, it was the first time a bar from outside the cocktail heartlands of London and New York had been named the best in the world; secondly, it marked the first time a tourism board had invested to bring a bar-focused awards event of this scale to its city; and lastly, for the 50 Best organisation, a then-best 24 brand sponsors paid record sums to support its flagship bar awards event. The spectacle of awards is nothing new. As in any industry, successes are celebrated at ceremonies fuelled by booze and hubris, while adjacent brands look to capitalise by way of sponsorship. Perhaps surprisingly, the bar industry was a relative latecomer to the game: Tales

of The Cocktail’s trade-focused Spirited Awards launched in 2007, followed by 50 Best in 2009 and The Bar Awards by DRiNK Magazine in Asia in 2014. The UK-leading CLASS Bar Awards reappeared in 2016, Top 500 Bars promoted an obscure algorithmic approach in 2019, while The Pinnacle Guide has seen worldwide acclaim for its detailed methodology since launching in 2023. “When I started drinks-writing, Tales was the only show in town and certainly kicked off the awards phenomenon,” says Hamish Smith, editor of CLASS magazine and content lead at 50 Best between 2013 and 2017. “Around 2012, people started waking up to the idea that awards could make a perfect tool for bars – essentially, a global network of marketing that costs nothing.” What’s good for the goose is often so for the gander, and around the time that Tales and 50 Best launched, big brands followed. Bacardí Legacy debuted in 2008 and Diageo Right: The Connaught Bar had back-to-back 50 Best wins in 2020 and 2021; Below: The coveted plate from the Spirited Awards

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Reserve World Class followed in 2009 – both championing the bartender as opposed to the bar, with the same underlying ideology to shift more stock. Engaging a talented fledgling bartender in an awards programme that shows them the world – and, indeed, a world of opportunities – creates a brand advocate for life. Both sides of the bar, at their crux, awards are empirically good for business. In 2022, Paradiso witnessed change overnight. “From the day after [the 50 Best victory], the queue outside tripled in size,” says Giannotti. Paradiso now has outposts in Dubai and Ibiza, and the brand celebrates its 10-year anniversary next year. In London, Connaught Bar took the crown at the Spirited Awards in 2020 and had back-to-back 50 Best wins in 2020 and 2021. “For us, awards have been a consequence of 16 years’ consistent work,” says Agostino Perrone, director of mixology at Connaught

AWARDS

Giacomo Gianotti and Margarita Sadar, centre, celebrating their win at The World's 50 Best Bars Awards

Bar. “They give a boost to the team and the interesting thing has been the diversity of the guest who now comes in. We see curious drinkers from London and the four corners of the world who might have previously felt intimidated by a five-star hotel bar.” It’s no different for new bars, where awards will often be part of a business model from day zero. Holly Graham, British drinks writer and industry figurehead, opened Tokyo Confidential with her husband Tom Egerton in the Japanese capital in October 2023. It was rewarded with the No. 53 berth in Asia’s 50 Best Bars nine months later. “Awards are on everyone’s radar, whether we like it or not,” says Graham. “Most people like to be acknowledged for their hard work. Most people want to open a fantastic bar. And if you do, the awards will come, whether you’re trying to win them or not. Of course, winning awards helps business – and business equals profit.” With any awards programme, there can only be so many winners. For every champion, thousands fall by the wayside. It breeds hostility, scepticism and deep dives into voting and judging structures to pick holes and find flaws in methodology. There is one complaint that prevails.

A guest shift circus

For the 50 Best event in Singapore 2023, 72 guest shifts took place in the city across four days. Brands flew in bartenders from all over the world for takeovers, setting up shop for a few hours to share their drinks and vibe. These shifts have become an integral part

of the awards ecosystem. The host city’s local economy gets a boost, and bar teams who wouldn’t be able to fund themselves to fly across the world get to attend ceremonies thanks to the support of brands. Bringing a bar to a foreign market enhances knowledge sharing, but it also comes with the express philosophy to win potential awards votes and cultivate relationships with people who might not otherwise attend their bricks-andmortar venue. “The guest shift circus began around

from the voter to ensure that is the case. The halo effect of awards on bartending is without question. In the case of 50 Best, awards have professionalised the craft of bartending and given luxury bars relevance in the eyes of the consumer. Tales has done similarly, creating a trade focal point, setting service standards and clear bastions of quality. Lists and the accolades they bring give bars credibility, help them sell more cocktails and give a point of inspiration for the generation of industry professionals coming through.

Both sides of the bar, at their crux, awards are empirically good for business 2007 with Sean Muldoon and his bar The Merchant in Belfast [Northern Ireland],” says Smith. “He’s credited as being the first person to market their bar to win awards. He realised that to achieve victory, the bartender must either bring people to see their bar, or bring the bar to them.” The Merchant picked up the awards for The World’s Best Hotel Bar, The World’s Best Cocktail Menu and The World’s Best Drinks Selection at Tales of The Cocktail in 2009. Whether those on the voting committee had ever ordered a drink at the bar in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter is a subject for debate. 50 Best has had similar criticism levelled and as such brought in a stipulation that for a vote to be valid, it must be for a bar experience that took place in the venue itself. There is currently no proof that is required

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It is vital, however, that awards do not become the definition of a bar or bartender: “I think there is a handful of the next generation that want a fast track to success and awards could be a contributing symptom,” says Graham. “I’ve dubbed them ‘starfuckers’. They have a sense of entitlement which equates to them doing little work and expecting more than they’ve put in.” Bartenders can now earn six-figure sums, explore the world, speak at conferences, give seminars, provide consultancy and move vertically into jobs that take them away from the long hours and years of graft that got them to the top of the game. The cult of awards shows no sign of diminishing and only grow in relevance – if nothing else, they offer ripe subject for us to bitch about.

S TA R T U R N S

Jenson Button consults on and is the face of the appropriately named Coachbuilt Whisky

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From big-name musicians to glamorous Hollywood stars, everyone is getting in on the act of producing a drinks brand. By Laura Foster

lot has happened in the drinks world over the past 13 years, as the pages of this magazine attest. Countless trends have come and gone, but one that has stayed the course is the celebrity drinks brand. In fact, the number of products launching each year appears to be increasing exponentially, with Beyoncé, Margot Robbie, Dre and Snoop, and Blake Lively being some of the highest profile stars to launch something in the past year or so. We in the drinks industry are shallow beasts who love to rub shoulders with the rich and famous when they’re touting their new project. Witness the excitement whenever Dan Aykroyd is in town to promote Crystal Head Vodka, the bun fight to breathe the same air as Kylie during one of her wine events, the enthusiasm to share a dram of Coachbuilt Whisky with Jenson

Button. It’s easy to get all starry-eyed, but do we ever stop to consider the impact that these products have on the industry as a whole? What are they bringing to the table? And is the liquid actually any bloody good, or are we so starstruck it’s confused our organoleptic senses? Let’s start with the why. Why do celebrities create their own drinks brand? Lots of them spin a great story about how much they love gin/vodka/tequila/ whatever, and how they initially planned to only create their li’l ol’ product purely for friends and family. But wow, the reaction was so positive, they simply had to share it with the world. Sorry guys, but we’ve heard this story too many times to believe it now. Celebrities are mostly savvy entrepreneurs, who understand their personal brand, not to mention how to market any project they’re working on. Most might have an interest in whatever drinks category they launch in, but at the end of the day, this is mainly about

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George Clooney and friends’ Casamigos Tequila; Left: Margot Robbie’s Papa Salt Gin

pure, hard cash, and how the product reflects their personal brand. But these product launches don’t just line these stars’ pockets – they can have a real and lasting impact on a drinks category, both positively and negatively. Witness George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman with Casamigos Tequila. “Casamigos was made just for us. We worked on the

S TA R T U R N S

These product launches don't just line these stars' pockets – they can have a lasting impact on the category creation of Casamigos in Jalisco, Mexico for years… we’ve been drinking our tequila and mezcal with friends and family for many years now. It was never meant to be released to the public,” declare the founders on the website. What they sold was a dream: drink this tequila, and you will have a link to us – glamorous, beautiful men with houses dotted around the world, including Mexico, natch. This supposedly ‘private’ tequila launched in 2013 and was sold to Diageo a mere four years later, in a sale worth up to $1 billion. Following this mind-boggling deal, the ‘Clooney effect’ set off a flurry of other celebrity tequila launches. “So many people decided to do their own tequila, because they knew that they can make money. Almost overnight, celebrities were looking where to make their brands,” declares Gaby Moncada, Speciality Brands’ agave ambassador. Among those celebrities to have launched their own tequila brand since, some of the most notable include: Rita Ora’s Prospero in 2019; LeBron James’ Lobos 1707 and Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson’s Teremana in 2020; and Kendall Jenner’s 818 in 2021. All the tequila producers that I’ve discussed the subject with agree that celebrity launches have increased awareness and adoption of tequila among different demographics. “I can actually point out that, thanks to celebrities, now people see us with different eyes. They somehow attracted clientele that wouldn’t actually be too sure about drinking tequila,” says Moncada. However, the creation of celebrity tequila brands can cause issues for other smaller producers, as Jenny Camarena, co-director of Tapatio, outlines: “Most of them are made by distilleries that use diffusers, which are superefficient, so automatically it’s cheaper, because you can get more juice out of the agave than with a brick oven or a roller mill. I’m not saying that it’s bad, it depends on the

Kylie Minogue's prosecco is a big hit with her fans

SirDavis Whisky from Beyoncé and Moët Hennessy; Below: Teremana Tequila founded by Dwayne Johnson

profile. And of course with their voice, selling is not a problem. They can get worldwide buyers in nightclubs, bars, restaurants. So they can go cheaper in production and they can get more profile and profits faster.”

f course, this certainly isn’t the case for all celebrity launches, it’s just that some are more exciting and potentially have

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more consideration and authenticity than others. Enter stage left, SirDavis, Beyoncé’s new American whisky that she’s created in partnership with Moët Hennessy. There’s heritage to the story – Beyoncé’s great-grandfather Davis Hague produced moonshine – and clout in her partnering with The Glenmorangie Company’s Dr Bill Lumsden to create the liquid. The result is an American whisky that draws inspiration from Scotch and Japanese whisky, with a 51% rye and 49% barley mash bill and secondary maturation in sherry butts. There’s another nod to Queen Bey’s roots through the fact the liquid is ‘finished, blended and bottled in Texas’. Beyond all of this, however, is the message that this launch brings: women can enjoy whisky. And they can create damn delicious liquid, too. When done well, a celebrity drinks product can be much more than yet another brand extension to their name alongside the perfume, homeware range or whatever else they’re hawking. It can be an innovative product, a category definer, a debate starter. Because star power and drinks heritage, when matched well, can create a cultural moment.

TCL PARTNER

NO ALCOHOL? NO PROBLEM

DAVI D LOF T US

How Everleaf is redefining the way we can enjoy intense flavour in our cocktails – with no alcohol

egroni, Daiquiri or Espresso Martini. Cosmopolitan or Clover Club. Mai Tai, Mojito, Margarita. We could go on… At the heart of every classic cocktail is a complex base spirit. Now consider reimagining these cocktails to be equally delicious, perhaps even more so, but without alcohol. Welcome to the world of Everleaf. Born from a belief that losing alcohol shouldn’t mean compromising on flavour, Everleaf aperitifs are unique, created by a bartender and bar owner who appreciates what discerning drinkers look for in a cocktail. And who also happens to have been a conservation biologist, with a knowledge of the botanicals needed to deliver an intense and complex flavour experience. All without alcohol. The bartender is Paul Mathew and his Everleaf range comes in three distinctly different expressions. The bittersweet blend of Forest, the aromatic notes of Mountain, and the crisp freshness of Marine. Each created to be enjoyed in the non-alcoholic cocktail of your choice. But where to begin? At home, we suggest a refreshing spritz. But not as you know it. Having decided on Forest, Mountain or Marine (please take time to taste each), step beyond simple soda and get creative. Introduce ginger ale into the mix, or a flavoured tonic. Garnish is important, too, for your sensory pleasure. Think citrus, herbs and rich berries. Alternatively, next time you visit your favourite bar ask about their Everleaf non-alcoholic cocktails. As for bartenders, sip and savour each of the three Everleaf expressions. Then see where your imagination leads you. Bartender or discerning drinker, take a look at the Everleaf website. From super-creative spritz to reimagined classic cocktail, you’re in for a fabulous, full-flavour, non-alcoholic surprise.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

Non-Alcoholic Saffron, Orange Blossom and Ginger Spritz 50ml Everleaf Forest 150ml ginger ale Orange and lemon slices, to garnish Method: Add Everleaf Forest to a tall glass filled with ice. Top with ginger ale and stir gently. Garnish with slices of orange and lemon.

Discover Everleaf-inspired cocktails at the best bars, including Artesian, Viajante87, Tayēr + Elementary, Sexy Fish, American Bar at The Savoy, Malmaison and Hotel du Vin. The Everleaf range is available from everleafdrinks.com

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On the first Monday of every month, women pile into the basement of London’s Dram Bar. Bottles of single malt and bourbon are passed around by curious guests as they sip on tropical highballs or a Scotch milk punch. Chappell Roan and Taylor Swift play over the speakers as friends and strangers make their cheery introductions. This is London’s famous Women’s+ Whisky Night, a totally free space for women, non-binary and agender people to connect over a dram, and it’s the hottest ticket in town. By Becky Paskin, founder of OurWhisky Foundation If you’d said a decade ago that this would be the new normal for whisky, I wouldn’t have believed you. The world I entered as a young, wide-eyed journalist was dominated by beards and cigars, rules around how whisky should be consumed, age statements and cask strengths. Cocktail innovation went as far as an Old Fashioned with chocolate bitters, while you’d be scolded by brand ambassadors for putting ice in your drink. And yet here we are. Whisky is becoming increasingly popular among female consumers (women now account

for 36% of whisky drinkers in the UK and US, according to a 2020 Distill Ventures survey). The traditional tartan and whisky-scented beard oil are nowhere to be seen, not just in this pink-hued basement bar, but across the category as a whole. These tired icons of whisky past aren’t exactly demure in an era of brat summers. You see, whisky has given itself a makeover. Or more precisely, a new generation of bright, young people have entered the space and are in turn opening the spirit up to an entirely new audience.

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DRAM BUSTERS

Far left: The modern face of whisky; Centre left: Small batch blends from Woven; Below: Georgie Bell and Fabrizio Leoni from The Heart Cut

For starters, marketing has become a hell of a lot more inclusive. Ad directors’ lazy reliance on women as sex sirens to sell whisky to men has thankfully taken a long walk into the sea. The more forward-thinking brands are instead taking a broader approach in their advertising, realising the power that speaking to more than one demographic can have (a recent study from the Unstereotype Alliance found genuinely inclusive advertising provides a 3.5% boost to short-term sales and more than

16% in the longer term). Branding has been modernised too. Traditional, historic and overtly Scottish cues have faded as bright, modern colour palettes dominate, appealing to a generation of consumers who prefer to navigate whisky by flavour rather than prestige or heritage. It’s this new generation of whisky drinker that’s driving innovation within the category. We’ve never had so much variety in whisky before, making it the most diverse spirit on the planet and it’s all down to the thriving curiosity and changing demands of millennials and gen Z. Where shelves once stocked a limited choice of Scotch, Irish or bourbon, stores and bars are faced with a dilemma of how to categorise the tidal wave of whisky styles emerging from countries around the world: single malts from India, Australia and France sit alongside ryes from Denmark, England and Finland. Even America’s dive into single malt territory has the industry scratching its head, while consumers praise their ever-growing choice of boundarybreaking whiskies. It’s exciting for whisky makers, themselves a new generation whose

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passion for exploring flavour has been ignited by consumers’ thirst for variety. Twelve years ago, when I first started properly writing about whisky, nearly all distillers, blenders and bottlers were older white men. Now some of the most exciting innovations are the result of young people taking charge and moulding their own ideas of what whisky should be. Take Woven, a Leith-based blending lab founded by five friends who felt blended Scotch had lost its way. Through small-batch ‘experiences’ these young industry veterans are exploring the parameters of what blended whisky can be in an effort to make it “much more human, much less industrialised, much more fun”. It’s a fresh take the wife-and-husband

DRAM BUSTERS

duo behind The Heart Cut are also adopting with their series of independent bottlings. By collaborating directly with new-wave distilleries to bottle one-off single-cask and small-batch whiskies, Georgie Bell and Fabrizio Leoni are connecting drinkers to the individual stories of people, provenance and place. Put simply, these new producers are putting the soul back into whisky. Even behind the stills a new class of young engineers, women in particular, are changing the industry from the inside. At the age of 23, Alice Pearson is the youngest distillery manager in the UK, if not the world. She’s running the show at the Cotswolds Distillery where she’s hands-on in everything from distilling and warehouse management to blending and sensory analysis. Pearson isn’t alone in representing gen Z’s move into distillery management, there’s also Caitlin Heard, team leader at The Borders Distillery; Rebecca Kean, assistant distillery manager at InchDairnie; Carmen Siu, trainee site operations manager at Brora and Clynelish; and Jam Barber, assistant distillery manager at The Macallan – to

Top: Alice Pearson at the distillery mash tun and right, rolling out the barrels; Below: New blends from The Heart Cut

Put simply, these new producers are putting the soul back into whisky name a few. On the blending side there’s Kelsey McKechnie at The Balvenie; Kirsten Ainslie at Glendronach; Diane Flynn at Bowmore; and Grace Gorton at The Lakes. I could go on. The face of whisky has clearly changed, but encouraging more women into whisky is only the beginning – the task now is to support them so they stay. It’s something the OurWhisky Foundation takes very seriously. As the world’s only non-profit dedicated to supporting women in the global whisky industry, we work alongside producers to provide consultation, DE&I training, education, community and mentorship (many of the above names have graduated our world-renowned programme) to ensure whisky remains inclusive. Whisky has spent centuries as a stuffy drink gatekept by the old guard. With the world changing, it’s time fresh blood took control and if that means enjoying tropical Scotch highballs in the company of like-minded folk while listening to Taylor Swift, I’m here for it.

Main image, centre: Kelsey McKechnie at The Balvenie; Above: Rachel Barrie, Brown-Forman Master Blender; Left: Kirsten Ainslie at Glendronach

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New experiencES, old School gLAMour Drinks experiences have become big business and whisky brands have plenty to offer those with the cash to splash

SELECT YOUR CASK

Why limit your tastebuds to whiskies that everyone is drinking when you can enjoy something unique, straight from the cask? That’s what’s on offer with The Vault By Chivas Brothers experience launched earlier this year. It begins with a private tour of the iconic Strathisla Distillery in Speyside before you’re met by one of the archivists to explore the history of Chivas Brothers and its enviable collection of Scotch whiskies. Next, you’re guided to the stateof-the-art library, or olfactory room, for a personalised tasting curated from 240 whiskies, ranging from high-aged and rare to new makes. From here you’ll make your way to the vault, surrounded by the sounds and scents of Scotch. In a special session, you’ll taste one of 14 exceptionally rare and sought-after casks, carefully hand-picked by blending expert Sandy Hyslop and cask expert Kevin Balmforth from Chivas Brothers’ reserve of high-aged whiskies. And should you wish to purchase said cask, you’ll be able to do so, storing it in the vault for up to four years. chivasbrothersvault.com

inside a distillery. Not only that, it’s been awarded not one but two Michelin stars. That’s down to the exceptional food based around locally sourced produce and whipped up into pure magic by head chef Mark Donald. With only seven tables, the cosy but smart restaurant is in high demand with those staying at Aberturret House (who get first dibs) and those from much further afield. Begin and end your meal with a drink at the six-metre-long bar, which just happens to be home to 350 expressions to be enjoyed as a dram, in a flight or as cocktails. Then settle back for the feasting ahead, all served from bespoke Lalique glass and tableware. theglenturretrestaurant.com

STAY ON AN ESTATE

The ultimate retreat for you and up to 11 of your equally fabulous friends, The Aberturret Estate House is the kind of luxury that doesn’t need to scream to be heard. We’ve been and can attest that it’s bloody gorgeous. Credentials-wise, the property was once home to the Murray Clan who founded The Glenturret Distillery more than 250 years ago; style-wise, it’s been given the kind of understated makeover that would make Elle Deco readers drool. Interiors are exquisitely bathed in a palette of creams, soft greys and muted browns, with pops of colour coming from original artworks by a mix of historical and modern Scottish artists across paintings, ceramics, furniture and textiles. As well as the six en-suite bedrooms, there’s a spacious lounge, formal dining room, kitchen complete with Aga and, of course, a stylish cocktail bar. theglenturret.com

DRINK WHILE BEING DRIVEN IN A LUXURIOUS BENTLEY

There are many ways to enjoy the riches of the Speyside landscape but The Macallan x Bentley Motors Experience is probably better than most. Leave everything to your Macallan host, who is on hand to inform you about the whisky, landscape and folklore of the region, while you enjoy a dram and they chauffeur you in

DINE IN A MICHELINSTARRED DISTILLERY

A five-minute stroll from The Aberturret Estate House is The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, the first fine-dining restaurant

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The Macallan Estate Bentayga Hybrid. There’s more, too: the experience includes a tailored tour, tasting and gastronomic dinner in The Macallan Distillery, with a selection of wines chosen by The Macallan Estate sommelier. themacallan.com

BE THE KING OR QUEEN OF THE CASTLE

If you’re up for a spot of regal life, live out your fantasies in this baronial-style castle located bang in the heart of Speyside. Set in 11 acres, the 14-bedroom property takes in outdoor terraces with a fire pit, sporting rooms, a lochan with rowing boat and a full complement of staff. The three-night, all-inclusive whisky weekend is ideal for solo enthusiasts or to hire for a group of 28. rothesglen.com

PEOPLE

24.

1. Alex Kratena and Monica Berg; 2. Vasilis Kyritsis and Nikos Bakoulis; 3. Simone Caporale; 4. Thanos Prunarus; 5. Salvatore Calabrese; 6. Dick Bradsell; 7. Tiffanie Barriere; 8. Ryan Chetiyawardana

55. .

10.

9. Iain Griffiths and Kelsey Ramage; 10. Joe and Dan Schofield; 11. Ben Branson; 12. Erik Lorincz; 13. Laura Willoughby; 14. Simon Ford 12 .

11.

13 .

14 .

Alex Kratena & Monica Berg

Co-owners, Tayēr + Elementary, London; co-creators, Muyu Liqueurs For clever collaborations, complex yet accessible cocktails and for Alex, proving that fun and five-star hotel bars can mix

Vasilis Kyritsis & Nikos Bakoulis

Co-owners, Line / The Clumsies, Athens For pushing boundaries, creating homegrown fruit why-ins and ferments

Simone Caporale

Co-owner, Sips Drinkery House / Boadas, Barcelona For making mixology magic at Sips Drinkery House and breathing new life and much love into historic Boadas

Thanos Prunarus

Owner, Baba au Rum / In Love Again, Athens; co-organiser, Athens Rum & Whisky Festival For being one of OGs of the Athens bar scene

Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese

Bar consultant and author For being the ultimate host, bringing focus to vintage spirits, mentoring and passing the baton on to the future generations

Dick Bradsell (RIP)

Bartender/consultant For leaving a legacy of modern classics

including the Vodka Espresso – AKA the Espresso Martini – Bramble and Treacle

Tiffanie Barriere

Educator and influencer For making it from behind the bar in an airport lounge to become one of the most influential figures in the drinks industry

Ryan Chetiyawardana, AKA Mr Lyan

Bartender/owner and author For daring to do things differently with White Lyan, the first bar to address sustainability with its no ice, no shakers, no citrus policy

Iain Griffiths & Kelsey Ramage Creators, Trash Tiki For making zero-waste, non-alc and ecowarrior cocktails sexy

Joe & Dan Schofield

Owners, Schofield’s Bar / Sterling Bar, Manchester For taking a punt and leaving mainstream bars to move back to Manchester, making local bars cool in the process

Naren Young

Erik Lorincz

Bartender/co-owner, Kwānt, London For being the only World Class Global winner from Great Britain, and using it to considerable effect, such as working with Barbara Broccoli on Skyfall

Ben Branson

Founder, Seedlip / Seasn / Sylva Distillery For introducing the world to the first nonalcoholic spirit, Seedlip

Laura Willoughby MBE

Founder, Club Soda For setting up the world’s largest mindful drinking movement

Simon Ford

Creator, Fords Gin For launching his bartender-owned branded gin brand

Hidetsugu Ueno

Bartender/owner For making the exacting Japanese bartending style more accessible

JJ Goodman

Bartender/consultant For his winning way with drinks generally – and the Fluffy Garibaldi specifically

Founder/owner, The Cocktail Club bar group For brilliant training for his teams, as well as bringing good times to his popular bars

Deano Moncrieffe

Camper English

Agave expert; founder, Equal Measures For setting up a platform for those facing discrimination in the drinks industry

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Cocktails and spirits writer For pioneering directional freezing and preaching the gospel according to ice

PEOPLE

15 .

16.

17.

15. Iain McPherson; 16. Claire Warner; 17. Hannah Sharman-Cox and Siobhan Payne; 18. Paola Mencarelli; 19. Tomas Estes; 20. Leo Robitschek; 21. Agostino Perrone and Giorgio Bargiani; 22. gaz regan; 23. Sam Millin and Alex Ruas; 24. Remy Savage

24.

20. 19.

18.

21.

22.

Shingo Gokan

Founder, SG Group; co-owner, multiple bars across Shanghai, Tokyo, New York and Madrid; creator, The SG Shochu For his unerring work ethic and ambition for exploring new horizons in the art of mixology

Iain McPherson

23 .

gaz regan (RIP)

Bartender, educator and author For his love of the Negroni and his book, The Joy of Mixology

Hannah Sharman-Cox & Siobhan Payne

Owner, Panda & Sons / Hoot The Redeemer/ Nauticus, Edinburgh For being a trailblazer on the bar front with his switching and freeze techniques

Founders, London Cocktail Week and The Pinnacle Guide For setting up the first cocktail week of its kind and launching The Pinnacle Guide, a meticulous new rating system for bars

Claire Warner

Tomas Estes (RIP)

Head of Advocacy, Diageo For getting the conversation around health and wellness in the drinks community started

Paola Mencarelli

Founder, Italian Cocktail Weeks For raising the profile of the bartenders and cocktail bars in Florence, Venice, Cortina and the Amalfi Coast

Tequila expert For bringing the agave category into focus, founding Tequila Ocho and being awarded the title of Ambassador of Tequila

Douglas Ankrah (RIP)

Bartender For creating LAB (London Academy of Bartenders) and the Pornstar Martini

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Leo Robitschek

Partner and Vice President of Food & Beverage, Sydell Group For bringing the ‘make it nice’ philosophy to NoMad hotels and spreading the message around the world

Agostino Perrone & Giorgio Bargiani

Director of Mixology and Assistant Director of Mixology, The Connaught Bar, London For elevating Martinis to sexy new heights with their dramatic table-side serve

Alex Ruas & Sam Millin

Founders, Behind Bars Agency For making ergonomic bar design practical and accessible

Remy Savage

Bartender/owner and glass designer For merging cocktails and art, and making salt in cocktails the norm

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26.

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29.

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30.

25. Charlotte Voisey; 26. Julie Reiner; 24 27. Shingo Gokan; 28. Jim Meehan 29. Matt Whiley; 30. Anna Sebastian; 31. Douglas Ankrah; 32. Simon Difford; 33. Ian Burrell; 34. Becky Paskin; 35. Peter Dorelli; 36. Sasha Petraske 3 1.

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Charlotte Voisey

Drinks consultant For being a pioneer of drinks brand advocacy and being one of the first Brit bartenders to make it big in New York

Julie Reiner

Co-owner, Clover Club / Milady’s / Leyenda, New York For influencing a generation of bartenders and being the first lady of Brooklyn with her bar Clover Club

Jim Meehan

Bar consultant and author For dazzling the world with his speakeasy bar PDT, which you entered by making a call from a payphone in a hot dog stand next door

Matt Whiley

Bartender/owner and consultant For creating the world's first permanent bar built on waste

35.

Anistatia Miller & Jared Brown

Drinks historians and publishers For their tireless work dispelling the myths behind the cocktail folklore

Anna Sebastian

Drinks consultant; founder, Celebrate Her For bringing women in the drinks industry together in an active online community, which includes Celebrate Mothers

Simon Difford

Author and consultant For founding CLASS Magazine, advising drinks brands and producing the online resource and hardback Difford’s Guide

Ian Burrell

Global Rum Ambassador; author; co-creator, Equiano Rum For creating the best job ever and making rum accessible to the masses

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36.

Becky Paskin

Founder, OurWhisky Foundation For being an advocate for equality and inclusion in the global whisky industry

Peter Dorelli

Drinks consultant, judge and adviser For still being relevant, still being fun and still rocking the drinks scene at 84 years old

Sasha Petraske (RIP)

Bartender/owner For founding Milk & Honey and reinventing modern cocktail culture

All 50 people featured, whether in a photograph or just mentioned in words, have had a huge impact on us during the 13 years that we’ve been publishing our magazine, and their contribution to the drinks world has no doubt had an effect on you too. Apologies to the many people we’ve missed out, you’re up next!

LOW & NO

Clockwise from top: Non-alc serves get sexy with Crossip Drinks; New non-alc range, Smiling Wolf; Tanqueray 0.0%; Paul Mathew, founder of Everleaf

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e’d never heard the expression ‘zebra-striping’ before this year. Now it’s something we can’t unhear and try to do as often as possible. New to the term? Here’s the intel: it’s a relatively new phrase for a practice that involves pacing your alcohol intake by alternating between alcoholic and no/low drinks during the evening. A way to have your proverbial cake and eat it (or Martini and drink it), if you will. Less restrictive is ‘book-ending’ where you begin and end your occasion with a no/low alternative and consume alcoholic drinks in between. Then of course, there’s complete abstinence, something that has become increasingly prevalent – particularly with those under the age of 35. All of which is a long-winded way of saying drinking in moderation, or at least more mindfully, is no longer a fad. It’s a fact that consumers and brands are taking incredibly seriously. According to a recent industry report by KAM Media, 30% of drinking occasions in pubs, bars and restaurants now involve a mix of alcoholic and non-alcoholic brands, while another 30% of said occasions don’t include alcohol at all. But that doesn’t mean that people are sipping on plain old water or sugary juices when Below: Fresh Citrus from Crossip Drinks

43 they’re out – they want flavour. Big, bold, exciting flavour. “I don’t drink alcohol but that doesn’t mean I don’t want something interesting in my glass,” Ben Branson confirmed in an interview with us in 2015. “That’s what set me on a mission to create a quality drink, something complex, created with adults in mind.” That creation was Seedlip, a ‘soft drink’ in the fact that it contains no alcohol but hard-hitting in its ability to replicate the taste of a spirit and the way it changed the no/low landscape. Following the success of Seedlip and the growing demand for products like it, the top four drinks companies got in on the act. Bacardí answered the call with its alcohol-free Martini range in 2020, followed by its ‘spirit’ Palette in 2022. Campari launched The Notes Collection in 2021, inviting bartenders and consumers “to experiment and play” with its trio of Bitter, Vibrant and Hidden infusions, while Pernod Ricard has Ceder’s, a collection of four expressions: Fresh & Floral, Light & Refreshing, Aromatic & Spicy and Soft & Sweet. Diageo responded with its House of 0.0% collection, low-alcohol versions of its existing ranges – Captain Morgan, Tanqueray, Gordon’s and Guinness – all sitting alongside Seedlip, which it acquired in 2019. The predicted continued growth for low and no has been an opportunity for independent producers, some with a bartending background, to create a range of new alternatives led by flavour rather than imitating a particular category. Carl Anthony Brown is a case in point. His unapologetically bold brand Crossip was “founded in a bar not a boardroom” and now features five expressions: Fresh

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Citrus, Pure Hibiscus, Dandy Smoke, Blazing Pineapple and Rich Berry. Products like these are integral in the working bartender’s arsenal, allowing them to create an array of cocktails that answer the call for alcohol-free options that have been made with as much care and attention as their boozy counterparts. According to the KAM Media report mentioned previously, 40% of people who are conscious of their intake will research what’s on the menu ahead of their visit to a pub, bar or restaurant and 31% have left a venue early and/or were disappointed because of poor no/low options. “I didn’t set out to make a ‘good non-alcoholic alternative’,” Paul Mathew told us when describing his range Everleaf. “The goal has always been to make the best-tasting drink I can, but one that just happens to be non-alcoholic.” Comprising three plant-based expressions, Forest, Mountain and Marine, it’s a staple behind many a top-notch bar and a favourite ingredient in a plethora of cocktails. “Sometimes bartenders use them for non-alc options, sometimes its low ABV, other times it’s full-strength, whether that’s a dash of Marine in a Martini or Mountain in a Manhattan. It’s this blurring of boundaries that I think is the key to the evolution of low and no,” he says. “It’s not about drinking or not drinking; it’s about being free to make choices that don’t impact the quality of your experience. It’s about normalising moderation as part of our wider approach to wellness and health. The category has grown up, and we should expect to have sophisticated and delicious options, whatever we choose.”

By farm-to-glass advocate Alex Francis

ost Covid, in no small part due to the increased sensitivity in supporting local, the bar industry undertook a fascinating valorisation of sustainability, quality and provenance in its product and produce sourcing, not seen since Dick Bradsell first championed fresh juices and fruits in his now modern classics. This change, often referred to as the farm-to-glass movement, has shaped the way we now experience cocktails in a similar fashion to the well-established farm-to-table movement in the culinary world. It’s no longer enough to merely serve tasty drinks; cocktails increasingly

Above: The Junglebyrd at Luke Whearty's Byrdi; Below: Jean Trinh surveys the farm

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must be rooted in a sense of time and place that can only come from working directly with local producers.

Where it all began

The farm-to-table concept, credited with growing awareness about sustainable food practices, naturally but more slowly transitioned behind the bar. Just as chefs began to champion locally sourced, organic and seasonal ingredients in the kitchen, due to the work of advocates like Alice Waters and Dan Barber, bartenders started to reflect on where their ingredients came from and what impact their drinks had on their wider ecosystem. And as guests became more discerning about what they were eating, they also began asking questions about what they were drinking. While this trend started brewing a couple of decades ago, it gained significant momentum in the 2010s when cutting-edge bars such as London’s Dandelyan and subsequently Lyaness began embracing locally crafted ingredients – not just for garnishes but for the core components of the drinks themselves. Suddenly, it wasn’t just about the spirits on the shelves, but all the agriculture that went into your glass. The rise of farmers’ markets, community-supported agricultural

FARM-TO - GLASS

and craft spirits, where small-scale production and organic farming are increasingly valued. It’s part of a cultural shift where quality, craftsmanship and sustainability reign supreme. For bar owners, embracing the farm-to-glass movement can be both a challenge and an opportunity. It requires greater creativity, but it also provides a unique selling point. Customers are drawn to bars that not only serve excellent drinks but also care about the environment and the community.

programmes and urban gardening helped fuel the movement, offering bartenders an abundance of seasonal ingredients to play within even the most densely populated cities.

The rise of farm-to-glass

A key driving force behind this movement has been a growing desire for transparency and sustainability. In an age where consumers are ever healthconscious and eco-aware, they want to know not only what’s in their glass, but where it came from, how it was grown and what impact it has on the planet. The farm-to-glass philosophy taps into this shift, with bars reducing their carbon footprint by cutting down on imported, out-of-season ingredients in favour of locally sourced produce. Just as restaurant menus rotate to reflect what’s fresh and available, cocktails are now taking their cues from what’s in season. Strawberries, for example, won’t appear in a winter cocktail at a farm-to-glass bar, as they’re typically imported during that time. Instead, expect to see ingredients like root vegetables, preserved fruits and winter herbs. In turn, this gives bars a fresh excuse to constantly innovate, crafting drinks that reflect the changing seasons and developing guest experiences that are unique to the time of year. A parallel trend that predates but dovetails with the farm-to-glass movement is waste reduction. In a farm-to-glass bar, it’s common to see bartenders utilising every part of an ingredient in a holistic approach that mirrors the ethos of nose-to-tail dining in the culinary world.

Bars leading the movement

Like most movements, farm-to-glass cannot simply trace its origin to one specific nuclear point, but an interconnection, inspired by a number of innovative cocktail bars around the world who, facing the same overarching issues, tried to reimagine how they approach their craft. One notable pioneer is Alquímico in Cartagena, Colombia. On first appearances, it wouldn’t appear out of place alongside the rest of South America’s top cocktail bars, a multi-story playground of music, mixed drinks and dancing. But dig below the surface and you find a bar that builds its cocktail programme on the produce of its own farm – a 27-acre site, which the Alquímico staff started during the pandemic.

The future of farm-to-glass

Looking ahead, it’s clear that while the farm-to-glass movement may give way in the bartending consciousness to topical issues and trends, the ethos has made a lasting impression when it comes to the expectations placed on the world’s best

It’s common to see bartenders utlising every part of an ingredient in a holistic approach that mirrors the ethos of nose-to-tail dining True Laurel in San Francisco is another standout. The bar has a cult following not only for its expertly crafted drinks but for its commitment to using local produce. True Laurel frequently collaborates with local farmers to source ingredients, ensuring its cocktails are a reflection of the city and region’s bounty. In Melbourne, Australia, Byrdi has quietly been a leading proponent of the movement. Its seasonal menus feature cocktails that blend purely Australiangrown and often native ingredients – such as wattleseed, bush tomato and lemon myrtle – with cutting-edge techniques. Working with local First Nations communities to ensure respectful use and culturally sustainable harvesting, they create drinks that are distinctly reflective of the Australian landscape.

The impact on the industry

As more bars adopt a farm-to-glass ethos, it’s reshaping the expectations of both consumers and bartenders. Patrons are becoming more educated and expect to see the origin of ingredients reflected on menus. Meanwhile, bartenders are developing closer relationships with local farmers and foragers, gaining a deeper understanding of how ingredients are grown and harvested, and how best to showcase them in their drinks. This shift also coincides with a broader movement toward natural wines

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bars and their approach to product and produce sourcing. With bar experiences becoming more immersive, inviting guests to engage with their drinks in a more meaningful way, we’re seeing more nuanced conversations between bars and guests regarding sustainability, provenance and seasonality – just as we witnessed in the wake of similar trends in visibility and accessibility. Farm-to-glass is a movement that has pushed the boundaries of what a cocktail can be, and continues to do so. It shows that creativity and sustainability can, and should, go hand in hand. Top: Farm fresh at Alquímico; Below: Keeping things local at True Laurel

Stories behind the covers of The Cocktail Lovers magazine

When we launched The Cocktail Lovers magazine in 2011 we described it as a publication about ‘cocktail lifestyle’. We wanted it to be a showcase for all the incredible things we were discovering around the cocktail world. Essential to this would be our covers. However or wherever a potential reader encountered the magazine, we wanted them to be surprised, challenged and engaged.

45 BARTENDERS AS PERFORMERS From the very first issue we decided to go beyond images of simply cocktails, bars or bartenders. We wanted a bigger conversation about the cocktail lifestyle. Part of this was recognising bartenders as natural performers, so we looked to bring out their personalities and creativity through eclectic styling, and posed them like actors on a stage. Our key collaborator for these early issues was photographer Johnnie Pakington. One of his many talents was to create a mood. This was at its very best when we were shooting in the superstylish Beaufort Bar at The Savoy, where we captured bartender Gaby Moncada Peña. We styled her like a princess, and she totally owned the moment and the cover of our third issue. The first four issues had all been in a digital format; issue five saw us move into print for the first time. As the issue would coincide with London Cocktail Week, we set ourselves a challenge: to get together some of London’s most significant bartenders in a single group photograph. Taking inspiration from the great Terence Donovan’s 1962 image of jazz musicians in Trafalgar Square, we searched for a large open space that was clearly in London, and

where we could set up and shoot quickly before getting moved on. Paternoster Square in the shadow of St Paul’s Cathedral was perfect, and we invited 27 bartenders to join us there at 10am on a chilly autumn Monday. Subsequently, we were told that to ask bartenders to gather at such an unearthly hour and on a Monday was madness, but they showed up. Looking back at this image some 12 years later it still moves us to see those faces – who can you pick out? – and we’re glad that we also

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caught the gathering on video (details at the end of this feature). For us, this was a significant moment in our relationships with these incredible bartenders. This fantastic diversion aside, we continued with our bartender style shoots for a further six issues, including Dré Masso and his team rocking the attitude when they opened Opium, and Thomas Aske and Tristan Stephenson dressed in suitably Victorianesque garb at the Worship Street Whistling Shop.

LOOKING BACK

PORTRAITS, CHEFS AND INTRODUCING ILLUSTRATION A pivotal moment came with issue 12 in 2014. We set out to celebrate the women of the drinks industry, building the whole issue around them – and in doing so, we established our pattern of themed issues. At the heart of the issue was a photographic feature that showcased the unique personalities of women in various professions across the industry. We decided on formal studio portraits and asked each participant to bring along an object of personal significance. Among the 16 shots were vintage cocktail shakers, classic books and a phone charger. Representing this illustrious group of women on the cover was Clotilde Lataille with a glass she had created, which for her signified the link between art and bartending. Moreover, this series of portraits went on to become our first exhibition a few months later.

COLOUR, BALANCE AND LUXURY Issue 25, in 2017, was a milestone for us. Its theme of ‘Colour’ was far-reaching, including blue cocktails and the science of colour in design, but most importantly people of colour in the drinks world. We wanted someone with a strong attitude to represent this on the cover – but not a well-

We revisited the portrait idea in the following issue – this time with objects that symbolised the bartenders’ former careers. Dance shoes and Lego all made an appearance, while our cover featured former chef Johan Ekelund with a chopping board and knife. Around this time, cocktails were crossing over into the culinary world. Consequently our interviews with chefs Jamie Oliver and Heston Blumenthal saw them feature on issues 14 and 20, respectively. Another important development was the discovery that our magazine was now being picked up not just by consumers and the bar industry in the UK, but all around the world. This prompted us to consider new ways to represent our themes. For issue 16, the ‘Light’ issue, we looked at lower ABV drinks, brighter bars and innovative thinking, and we encapsulated the theme with our first commissioned illustration. Recently graduated illustrator Pez loved the brief and came up with a brilliantly simple representation of the idea for the cover. We returned to illustration a couple of issues later for our ‘Space’ theme, featuring Alex Kratena and Simone Caporale in an outof-this-world, post-Artesian moment. For this we approached Mark Reihill, famed for his Dead Rabbit (New York) cocktail menus. He also created a striking illustration for our ‘Asia’ issue. Our covers could be typographic too, as represented by the clean simplicity of issue 22, our ‘Green’ sustainability issue.

known ‘face’ – and we got it with model, Tifeny, and an incredible image from Rob Lawson. Issue 27 was about exploring the all-important issue of balance, covering both the work-life demands of bartenders, and consumers who enjoy great drinks but appreciate the need to be mindful too. Used to capturing the idiosyncratic moments of rock musicians on tour, photographer Lawrence Watson caught former bartender, brand ambassador and yoga enthusiast Camille Vidal striking a yoga pose – Martini glass in hand. Another pivotal moment came with the ‘Luxury’ issue, number 29. As well as

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showcasing extraordinary bars, couture for cocktail hour and cocktails mixed with vintage spirts, we wanted the magazine itself to feel luxurious. We moved from glossy print to a premium, heavier paper stock with a matt finish. As for the cover – a liquidgold cocktail being poured into a Martini glass – we expected this to be tricky, but still-life photographer Adam Goodison got the image in one take. So enthused were we with the final shot, we augmented it with gold lettering on the masthead and coverline. And liking the new feel of the paper stock so much, we made it permanent from 2018.

LOOKING BACK

MANUALS AND FORTUNATE MOMENTS Never ones to follow the rules, we broke our own magazine format with issue 31. Collecting together some 30 distinct sections covering the likes of infusions, Instagram, Irish coffee, food pairing, batching, clear ice, opening a professional bar and building a home one, we set out to create a handy do-it-yourself manual for the ‘How To’ issue. For all the planning, covers can come from luck, too. For the ‘Italian’ issue we had a strong photographic feature focusing on aperitifs, but come the day of the shoot we were still undecided on the cover. During a break we noticed how the natural light was falling on various pieces of coloured glassware… by swapping the colours and their positions, we created the Italian flag in three Negronis. Beautifully realised by Rob Lawson for issue 32.

10 YEARS, A NEW DIRECTION AND EPIC STORIES Art is something that’s an integral part of the creativity of the cocktail world, in many ways, and we captured this with our Andy Warhol pastiche in the ‘Art’ issue. Next, a simple cover for our ‘10th Anniversary’ issue payed homage to past issues, but we were already gearing up for our next chapter. With our new art director, Scott Bentley, we set about revamping the whole magazine for issue 40. Along with a new masthead, the ‘New’ issue showcased a beautiful photographic feature created with our long-time collaborator Rob Lawson. Challenging preconceptions and stereotypes, the cover shows a delicate cocktail in a man’s hand; inside, a feminine hand grasps a cocktail in a beer tankard. Cocktails, brands and people in the drinks world are often accompanied by epic stories. We captured the essence of ‘Storytelling’ in an image for the cover of our 42nd issue, with hints of drama inspired by Game of Thrones and a medieval-style cocktail enveloped in evocative and mysterious mist.

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THECOCK TAILLOVERS.COM SPRING 2022

ISSUE 40

ISSN 12034567890

New horizons… Close up on some of the best new venues to open around the world post lockdown PAGE 26

New classics… Five bars adding fresh and clever riﬀs on the drinks we all know and love PAGE 38

New destination... How and why Mexico City is on top of the sip parade PAGE 54

Out with the old, in with the

‘NEW’ ISSUE TCL40_Book.indb 1

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THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 50

COVID, LOCKDOWN AND CARRYING ON No one needs reminding how tough 2020 and 2021 were for everybody in the hospitality industry, us included. Dumping two themes we had already planned, we decided instead to focus on how we could support the international drinks community and its guests. The cover of issue 36 stated our belief in ‘Faith, Hope

& Charity’ to see everyone through these incredibly challenging times. Issue 37 was a simple image of hands grasped in mutual support to suggest ‘Better Together’. Interestingly, a number of people assumed – wrongly! – that these were the hands of The Cocktail Lovers themselves.

LOCAL, LOCATION AND TWO CELEBRATIONS The ‘Local’ issue was prompted by our belief in the importance of people, bars and brands connecting with their surroundings. One feature shone a light on drinks brands supporting local communities by using local ingredients – so we made those five ingredients the cover stars, all captured in clean simplicity by regular collaborator, Gary Smith. Issue 47 was the ‘Tailor-Made’ issue, in which we explored the beauty of bespoke drinks experiences. So we stepped out of the studio and went on location to leading tailor Dugdale Bros. & Co. to shoot our cocktails in fittingly bespoke

situations, such as our smart Margarita perfectly balanced on a selection of fabric swatch books. The following issue saw us once again celebrating women in the drinks industry. For the photographic feature, we set out to honour the influence of five significant but often unappreciated women in drinks history. First, we wanted the reader to notice an enticing cocktail, but on closer inspection to be rewarded by an image of the woman it represents. On the cover, legendary bartender and owner of Boadas in Barcelona, María Dolores Boadas emerges from the shadows of a cocktail dedicated to her. We followed with another celebration, this time returning to the theme of

people of colour who are integral to the drinks world, past, present and future. For our cover, we wanted an image that conveyed dignity, integrity and strength. Our model June Lawrence majestically embodied this, expertly captured by Rob Lawson. Coming up to date, it’s our 50th issue that you are reading now. We hope the cover conveys our pride in covering the extraordinary world of cocktails and spirits over 13 years and 50 issues, each with a cover that has a story to tell. To see any of the full photo shoots mentioned here please visit thecocktaillovers.com/magazine for details of print and digital back issues. To watch the making of the London bartenders cover for Issue 5 see the film by Travis Watson here

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OUT AND ABOUT

Have you ever been to the Isle of Man? I hadn’t. Which is pretty rubblish of me considering I think nothing of jetting off to Greece, Italy, America even, all in the name of cocktails, when the good ol’ Isle o’ Man is only 250 miles or so away from my doorstep. Anyway, I’ve now rectified my li’l oversight and I’ve learned a lot in the process. I won’t lie, it’s a funny place, and I don’t mean funny ‘ha-ha!’, more like funny in its location. For instance, it’s in the middle of the Irish Sea, roughly equidistant between England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales, yet

isn’t part of the United Kingdom (I’ve done my research). Weird, no? Then there’s the matter of size: it’s pretty dinky, only 33 miles long and 13 miles wide, yet despite this diminutive 227-square-mile land mass, the self-governed Manx people are mighty big on energy and pride. Which is how I found myself sitting at Kiki Lounge, admiring the genius of what is destined to be a modern classic and mascot of the island, the Queenie Martini. First of all: what a positively brilliant and catchy name! Second: how clever (and sustainable) to combine the shells of the island’s prized Queen Scallops (affectionally

Kiki Lounge Douglas, Isle of Man, IM1 4LB

THE COCKTAIL GIRL SOAKS UP… Tropical island vibes in the Irish sea

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known as ‘queenies’) in one of the most classic cocktails of all time? This is just one of the drinks on the latest menu at Kiki, “a tropical bar on a not-so-tropical island”. Headed up by Drew Fleming (left) and Jamie Lewis, the space is a glorious mashup of tiki-esque and millennial disco vibes. Yes, that is a thing. Or at least it is here. Kiki’s is a party and everyone is invited. But like the best hosts, Drew and Jamie are mindful of their guests, aware that they may be further behind in their cocktail journeys than the plans the duo have for their bar. So they’ve slowly been building trust and pushing palates further. And their latest Menu Zine, Issue 3.5, is probably the most ambitious the locals have seen yet. There, nestled between friendly puzzles, facts and short, fun features in the zinestyled menu are three sections of cocktails: Tropical, Not So Tropical and Kiki’s Greatest Hits. Combos such as Chi-Chi (Boatyard Vodka, Lillet Blanc, lacto-fermented pineapple, Bristol Syrup Co. Pineapple & Coconut Syrup, lime and coconut milk) and the Ernest + Rita 2.0 (Del Maguey Vida Puebla Mezcal, Olmeca Altos Tequila, Campari, elderflower liqueur and acid-adjusted grapefruit) are a couple of examples from the Tropical Drinks list. The Queenie Martini sits alongside drinks such as the Treacle (Outlier Twisted Arm Spiced Manx Rum, Foraging Vintners Manx Apple Port-Erin, golden syrup and sour apples) on the Not So Tropical side and Kiki’s Greatest Hits takes in guest faves like Cos Tonight BBY I Wanna Get Kiki Wit U (Beefeater Gin, pineapple, cucumber, lime and tonic). It’s a fun place but Drew and Jamie take their fun extremely seriously. Hence the fact the bar has been awarded a 1 Pin ‘Excellent’ rating in the inaugural Pinnacle Guide. Definitely worth a visit if you’re in the Isle of Man. kikis.im

THE COCKTAIL GUY DELIGHTS IN… A deliciously different drinking and dining experience

Pairing a tasty cocktail with some fine food has always appealed to this cocktail guy. Once upon atime the offering was limited to a Martini and burger, or more likely a Margarita and some Mexican dishes. Over time, the relationship between bartenders and chefs in some establishments has evolved in a pleasingly positive way, leading to some particularly interesting collaborations. These collaborations, though, always follow the pairing approach of food with wine – create the dish, then go in search of an appropriate glass of something to complement it. All well and good. Sala de Personal has other altogether more creative ideas, as I was delighted to discover on a recent trip to Mallorca. After an excellent Gimlet in Ginbo (the sister establishment) we followed the distinctive neon sign to descend into an atmospheric space and take our seats at an intimate communal table. Settling

in we were happy to be treated to an inviting view of the open kitchen, where the team were in action preparing drinks and dishes in perfect harmony. We knew we were in for a wholly different approach to cocktail and food pairing. The team work closely with the many producers to be found at the extraordinary local market (well worth a visit in its own right), taking a stroll around it every morning to see what inspires them. Then it’s back to the kitchen. Significantly, though, the creative process begins with the drinks. Based on the produce of the day, they set about creating a range of cocktails for the evening. And as they go they also create the food dishes with which to pair them. Deciding on various courses in a restaurant is often a bit challenging for me when there’s too much choice, so I was happy to discover that the evening simply offers a tasting menu, which usually consists of around four or so courses. The cocktails are

Sala de Personal Palma, Mallorca, Balearic Islands

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mainly lower in alcohol, allowing for several to be served throughout the evening, and on our visit the menu was themed around various expressions of Matusalem rums. We loved the Safernaria (Matusalem 23, whisky, cloves, peppermint, whey and purple carrot) augmented with mackerel, fennel and mint. The dark spirits and intriguing ingredients made for a bold serving that worked beautifully to balance the dish. Courtesy of that earlier market visit, other drinks included the likes of basil, conference pear and peas, all to delicious effect. Our standout was M & M (Matusalem 15, red vermouth, butter, tomato water and strawberry) accompanied by pork belly, spinach and chimichurri. The drink was powerful. The dish exceptionally rich. Together they were outstanding. Mallorca is perfect for a long weekend and this cocktail guy will be heading back very soon. It’s a wonderfully historic part of the world with an abundance of beautiful art nouveau buildings in Palma, the aforementioned market and, of course, this mouthwatering destination. I’ll be getting my reservation in early for another fine drinking and dining experience at the incredible Sala de Personal. saladepersonal.com

E AT & D R I N K

MAINS & MARTINIS

dripping potatoes, face-sized Yorkshire puddings, perfectly steamed carrots and greens, plus roasted shallots and garlic, served with copious amounts of bone marrow and onion gravy. Go wild and order some Hawksmoor stuffing to accompany your meal – it’s oh-so goooood. Even with beef…

Old favourites and new discoveries

Hawksmoor Spitalfields

157A COMMERCIAL STREET, LONDON E1 6BJ. THEHAWKSMOOR.COM (££)

The vibe: Since opening in 2006, Hawksmoor has never disappointed. Not us, not its mucho, mucho regulars and not, it appears, its longstanding team. Not for nothing has the company been awarded B-Corp status and named one of the Best Companies To Work for every year since 2012. Just as consistent is the offering. You know exactly what you’re going to get in terms of the look, feel and atmosphere, whether you visit the first branch in Spitalfields or one of the latest outposts going down a treat in New York and Chicago. While most of the Hawksmoor sites are located in heritage buildings, all 13 are cosy, warm and timeless. Handsome yet elegant, sophisticated but lived-in. Perfect, in fact, for a lunch in the restaurant, followed by an afternoon through to evening cocktail sesh at the bar.

terms of provenance, quality and care. That goes for the prime cuts of beef, the fish and poultry, the sides and the unapologetically retro desserts. Make it your business to try the Sunday Roast, slow-roast rump served with beef

The food: Justifiably renowned for its steaks, in truth everything that Hawksmoor does is right up there in

Sunday feastings at Hawksmoor Spitalfields

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The drinks: We’ve never met a Hawksmoor cocktail that we didn’t like. Head of bars Liam Davy makes sure of that. Both the Dry Gin Martini (Hepple Gin, Aperitivo Co Dry Vermouth and Filicudi lemon oil) and the Steakhouse Martini (Boatyard Vodka, dry vermouth, Chardonnay green peppercorn and olive brine) come highly recommended as does the Sour Cherry Negroni (East London Gin, Select Aperitivo, Regal Rogue Vermouth and sour cherry).

Lasdun

Be sure to secure a table by the window at Lasdun

NATIONAL THEATRE, UPPER GROUND, SOUTH BANK, LONDON SE1 9PX. LASDUNRESTAURANT.COM (££)

The vibe: Be sure to ask for a table by or near the window when booking, it makes for a totally different experience. From here you can look out on to the South Bank, get a feeling of light and life and watch the world go by, whereas towards the back, it’s more like a regular theatre restaurant in a brutalist concrete space. The food: We knew it would be good as Lasdun comes from the same team behind the Marksman Public House in Hackney. The food is classical, comforting and absolutely delicious. We can’t praise the chicken, leeks and girolle pie for two to share highly enough – it truly is a taste sensation with huge chunks of chicken, buttery leeks and pastry to die for. You won’t need them, but we advise adding a portion of chips on the side. Extremely filling but worth every calorie. The drinks: We recommend the softer-style Lasdun Martini (ELLC Gin/Vodka, Dolin Chambéry and Cocchi Americano), and the Walnut Manhattan (Rittenhouse Rye, Cocchi Torino and walnut bitters) – both scored top marks with us.

Claridge’s Restaurant

CLARIDGE’S, BROOK STREET, LONDON W1K 4HR. CLARIDGES.CO.UK (£££)

The vibe: When you have a name as classy and classic as Claridge’s, why add another in front of it? Once a showcase for chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, Daniel Humm and Simon Rogan, the restaurant has stepped out on its own. And we love it. It’s the epitome of Mayfair chic, grown-up, glamorous, utterly beguiling but, and here’s the magic, not at all stuffy. It’s spenny but inviting. The food: To celebrate its first birthday, the Claridge’s restaurant team have created a fabulous new menu and we urge you to try it. For fish pie taken to dizzying new heights, we suggest the Claridge’s version made with langoustine, cod, salmon and smoked haddock, served with seasonal greens, or feast on the Seafood Tower, piled high with crab, scallops, langoustines and clams.

The drinks: There are all the classics and they do them extremely well, but go for one of their latest creations, like the fab Honey & Orange Sour (Bombay Premier Cru, Beesou Aperitif, Cointreau and honey), or Apple Highball (Martini Ambrato, Discarded Vodka, white port and ginger ale).

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DESTINATION ASIA Priyanka Blah on why the drinks scene in Asia is drawing in crowds from across the globe

he year is 1980 and you’re sipping one of many Sazeracs in New York’s much-adored Rainbow Room, chalking out your London itinerary as the bartender supplies you with a steady stream of the “best bars in London to get the best cocktails”. Over in London, your friend is annoyingly enthusiastic about taking you to the infamous American Bar for “the best Martini you’ve ever had in the birthplace of the Hanky Panky”, and you’re wondering how to tell her you’re more of a Godfather kind of girl. Between sips, you’re pondering over the joy of travelling between two continents as a drinks gourmand and marvelling at the freedom of being able to spend time between these two glamorous cocktail capitals only to sip your way

through the best bars in the world – this is the good life. Fast forward to 2024. You are at your desk, juggling life between calendars, Martinis and Milk Punches as you try to pick a destination for your next cocktail adventure, and you are spoiled for choice. From Singapore and Hong Kong to Tokyo and Bangkok and everything in between, there are decisions to be made. In Singapore, the options are exhilarating – experience future-forward creations at Fura, ingredient-driven drinks at Native or classic drinks with a playful twist at Jigger & Pony. The variety seems endless. Meanwhile, in Hong Kong and Bangkok, the bars offer an array of choices that balance regional influences, modern trends and the rich cultural tapestries of these dynamic cities.

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The past 50 years have been transformative for hospitality and cocktail culture globally. Trends have evolved, innovation has taken centre stage and the forces shaping global trends have become more transparent. The evolution of the cocktail lover’s palate has mirrored the changing personalities of bartenders. Economic upheavals and a pandemic have reshaped the landscape, leaving a trail of challenges to address. Meanwhile, Asia has seen a surge in world-class cocktail bars, drawing

THE PAST 50 YEARS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMATIVE FOR HOSPITALITY

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The warming interior at Jigger & Pony; Left: The Jigger & Pony team

A Clover Club cocktail and left: Pear & Hops at Jigger & Pony; Below: Nick Choo

international acclaim. The new cocktail powerhouses are no longer limited to the US and Europe; Asian bars have emerged as major players in the global hospitality scene. Around the time that The Cocktail Lovers magazine launched in 2011, Tales of The Cocktail Spirited Awards had announced Employees Only (New York) as the World’s Best Cocktail Bar and the American Bar at The Savoy (London) as the World’s Best Hotel Bar. However, lists like The World’s 50 Best Bars had started seeing the likes of Singapore’s Tippling Club and Tokyo’s High Five begin to make their presence known in global rankings that were still very much dominated by Europe and the US. This marked the beginning of the rise of Asia’s cocktail bars.

Inside Reka:Bar

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So, how did London and New York come to share their ‘cocktail capital’ titles with worthy contenders from across the ocean in Asia? Let’s delve into the details.

Democratisation of knowledge

Nick Choo, co-owner of Reka:Bar in Kuala Lumpur, notes: “In the past, acquiring skills often required apprenticing at a renowned bar or studying under a respected mentor. However, today’s easy access to information and educational resources has broadened the pathways through which one can learn these skills.” This widespread availability of knowledge has introduced a new sense of empowerment, making it possible for individuals to acquire specialised skills regardless of their background or financial means. Now, anyone with a genuine passion and desire to master the craft can access the information they

need to succeed. This has been a gamechanger for bartenders all over the world.

Lower cost structures

It wouldn’t be entirely accurate to claim that rents in Singapore and Hong Kong are significantly lower than those in London and New York. But they remain affordable enough to encourage bartenders to venture into opening their own bars, and so Asia has become a hub for bartender-led venues. Additionally, the availability of skilled hospitality professionals at competitive salaries creates a favourable environment for new bars to launch and succeed. The region’s well-paying job opportunities, decent quality of life and lower cost of living, compared to Europe, have drawn increasing numbers of hospitality professionals to Asia in recent years.

Biryani cocktail at Savory Project

Simone Rossi

The Savory Project interior

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Investment

Asia is an attractive place for investors looking to put their money in hospitality owing to the region’s robust economic growth over the years. This has naturally led to a rising middle class accompanied by an increase in disposable income. Asia stands out as a leading global tourism destination, with countries such as Thailand, Japan, China and Malaysia drawing millions of international visitors each year. This consistent flow of tourists generates a dynamic market for hospitality investments. Simone Rossi, founder of Ratafia Rossi and former bar manager at DarkSide at the Rosewood Hong Kong, attributes the success of hotel bars in Asia to the surge in postpandemic tourism. “The significant support and investment from the tourism boards in these countries have played a huge part in helping venues

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succeed, which is a key point to note,” says Simone.

Increasingly sophisticated consumers

Well-travelled consumers and cocktail gourmands are now planning travel around places to eat and drink and F&B tourism is seeing its best days in recent years. Having travelled the world and experienced the best that global destinations have to offer, consumers now seek out a certain level of excellence wherever they go. This inevitably puts any ambitious bar to work and pushes them to offer nothing but the highest quality drinks, service and experience – at par with any high-ranking bar in London or New York. Today’s guests seek unique experiences; they’re adventurous and curious. This evolving palate enables bars like Ajit Gurung’s Savory Project

THIS CONSISTENT FLOW OF TOURISTS GENERATES A DYNAMIC MARKET in Hong Kong to serve exciting drinks like a mouthwatering Thai Beef Salad or Biryani, leaving guests craving more.

Cultural uniqueness and local terroir

According to Jigger & Pony’s founder Indra Kantono, the world is richer when we are each unique and the goal is never for Singapore to be a London or vice versa. “Cocktail bar culture spreads because consumers and bartenders are celebrating the unique ways in which hospitality and flavours are delivered

around the world,” he says. A person who travels all the way to Bangkok from New York is not necessarily going to seek familiarity in a New York-style speakeasy and is probably in search of something different. In addition to this, Asian bars have the added advantage of regionality. The rich biodiversity of the region, the growth of regional spirits, as well as the cultural uniqueness of these countries makes for a rich tapestry of experiences to choose from. While several factors fuel the rise of cocktail destinations in Asia, the enduring impact of London and New York bars on global drinking trends remains undeniable. Nevertheless, with Asia’s burgeoning bar scene capturing our attention, I anticipate some thrilling developments in the region’s cocktail culture and look forward to sharing these exciting advancements with you.

Ajit Gurung 's Savory Project is one of the exciting additions to the Hong Kong bar scene

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PARTING SHOT

MAKE TIME FOR A CONNAUGHT BAR MARTINI You know that ‘Everybody’s Free To Wear Sunscreen’ track that Baz Luhrmann released in 1997? We agree with every word of it but we’d add one thing: make time to treat yourself to a Connaught Bar Martini.

It doesn’t have to be every week, or every month for that matter, but if you happen to be in London for any length of time, it should definitely be on your must-do list. Here is a ritual designed to perk you up when you’re down or put an extra spring in your step if you’re celebrating; it’s a little treat to enjoy alone as well as sharing with lovers or friends. The ripple of exhilaration that courses through you as the Martini trolley parks in front of your eyes, the thrill of selecting

your choice of bitters. Then it’s showtime! Cue a frisson of excitement as your bartender dramatically raises their arms to what seems like a precarious height and majestically ‘throws’ your Martini into the crystal glass to aerate the precious liquid for your delectation. This is theatre, this class, this is the joy of a Connaught Bar Martini. Do you need it? Probably not. Are you worth it? Abso-bloomin-lutely. the-connaught.co.uk

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