ISSN 2052-0603 (DIGITAL)
RED ALERT! 6 of the best Bloody Marys
LICENSED TO CHILL The coolest ice buckets
GREECE IS THE WORD 48 hours in Athens + Win tickets to an evening of sheer deco-dence at Harrods
On the cover Moody looks, great drinks and
Gatsby glamour at Bar Américain at Brasserie Zédel
ONLY ONE ANGELIQUE IS WORTH TAKING HOME TO MEET YOUR MOTHER We believe that only fresh, natural ingredients deliver razor sharp flavours and that’s the difference between any cocktail and the One.
The best ingredient is always flavour
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IN-tro
W E’ R E G O I N G
STRAIGHT FOR THE
G - S P OT
IN THIS ISSUE Nothing saucy though, we’re talking Gatsby, glamour and gin. Baz Luhrmann’s cinematic rendition of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic released this May was the inspiration for our cover and style shoot – and why wouldn’t it be? We’ve seen the trailer and it’s a visual feast. The same can be said for Bar Américain at Brasserie Zédel. Every inch of the place bristles with the energy and decadence of the Bright Young Things of yesteryear. We asked Lee Hyde, Francesco Lavilla, Vilte Bertulyte, Monika Gac and Alberto Jiminez from the bar to strike a pose in the myriad fashions inspired by the film. Set against the glorious Art Deco backdrop of their place of work, they capture the opulent mood of the period down to a tee (p. 42). That’s the Gatsby and glamour part taken care of but as gin was the spirit of choice for the author (apparently he was a sucker for a Gin Rickey), we thought we’d take a look at that too. Ben Norum charts the rise, fall and rise of London’s distilleries (p. 20), we head over to Brooklyn to check out how they do things at the New York Distilling Company (p. 40), and toast the re-release of Malacca gin (p. 32). Bloody Marys first made an appearance in the 1920s so we also salute six of London’s best (p. 24). And while hip historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown could have taught us a thing or two about this grandiose era, we chat to them about their work together instead (p. 38). There’s more of course, including tips on where bartenders drink when off duty (p. 12), gorgeous craft barware (p. 16) and city guides to Bristol (p. 52) and Athens (p. 54). Pour yourself a drink and dive in.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G www.thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
30. IN-focus
54. IN-ternational
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Elaborate vs. low key
Greece is the word
Which side of the garnish fence are you sitting on?
Everybody’s talking about the bar scene in Athens, now we know why
32. IN-focus
58. IN-vite only
Spice up your life
Snap-shot!
What’s all the fuss about the rerelease of Tanqueray Malacca gin? We talk to Barrie Wilson to find out
Honouring The Deans of Drink
Booking classes in the cocktail caravan and serving up tasty punches – just two of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Cleo Rocos On tequila, Kenny Everett and the power of positive drinking
12. IN-spire Where bartenders drink off duty From whisky bars in Scotland to member’s clubs in Barcelona, Ryan Chetiyawardana and co. share their favourite off-duty spots
16. IN-spire Raising the bar Quality crafted barware for when the bog standard stuff won’t do
18. IN-spire A few of my favourite things Up close and personal with Agostino Perrone from the awardwinning Connaught Bar
20. IN-the spotlight Made in London Ben Norum charts the rise, fall and rise of London’s gin distilleries
22. IN-the spotlight A question of taste Why you need a bottle of Angostura aromatic bitters in your kitchen cupboard as well as your bar
34. IN-dulge Licensed to chill The coolest ice buckets for impressing your guests
38. IN-dustry greats Two’s company: Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown Drinks historians Miller and Brown on working together, working in the drinks industry and how they complement each other personally and professionally
40. IN-dependent spirits New York State of mind Gin is the tonic at the New York Distillery Company and its adjoining bar, The Shanty
42. IN-style Get the drinks in at… Bar Américain at Brasserie Zédel. Gatsby glamour finds its home in Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s sumptuous space
47. IN-formed Mains and Martinis Three London restaurants where the cocktails are a match for the food
24. IN-the spotlight
48. IN-formed
6 of the best Bloody Marys
Word up…
Inspiring variations on the vitamin C-enriched classic
Last orders from R&B star Ne-Yo, why we’re loving the Orderly app and things that make us go, ‘ooh!’
26. IN-the spotlight World Class trends The clothes, soundtracks and settings inspired by this year’s World Class competition trends
52. IN-sider’s guide One night in Bristol Richard Tring and Michael Sharpe’s guide to 24 hours in the city
On the cover: Lee wears bespoke black tails and dress trousers, £1,115, waistcoat from bespoke 3-piece dinner suit, £6,030, both from Huntsman; white collar attached Marcello wing collar shirt, £125, white Marcello bow tie, £75, both Budd Shirtmakers. For clothing in the background, see p. 43. Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor Susannah O’Grady Creative Director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio www.burntstudio.com Illustrations Melanie Milne www.seriousaboutdesign. me.uk; Nick Schon www. nickschonillustrator.com; Becky Roberts www.doodleyboo.co.uk Photography Johnnie Pakington www.johnniepakington.com Contributors Ryan Chetiyawardana, Ben Norum, Michael Sharpe, Lauryn Tomlinson, Richard Tring With special thanks to Thanos Prounarous, A for Athens hotel For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020-7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover photography by Johnnie Pakington Issue No. 7 April-June 2013
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
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REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Cocktails in caravans, colour-coding our spirits and embracing the Golden Age of Cocktails – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
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Checking out the Berry Bros & Rudd No. 3 bar at the Royal Albert Hall. We’ve always loved this historical music venue but now that Berry’s are running things on the bar front, it’s gone up a notch on our culture-ometer. Top tip? Pink Martini on 29 April – great name, truly fab tunes. www.royalalberthall.com 6 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-the know
02
NSTEPPING 3 OUT IN STYLE o
PUFFING ON QUALITY CIGARS Salvatore Calabrese is back in consultancy mode at The Lanesborough London hotel, advising on the dark and delicious cocktails to pair with Neil Millington’s choice of luxury smokes. Our pick is The Havana Connection (Havana Club 15 year-old rum, Laphroaig Whisky 10 Year Old, fresh lime juice, tobacco liqueur and sugar syrup), expertly matched with a Ramon Allones Specially Selected cigar. Cool and classy gangsta style. www.lanesborough.com
in these l’il babies by Nicholas Kirkwood. Designed to complement the deep, rich jewel-tones of Chambord black raspberry liqueur, they’re gorgeous with a capital ‘G’. www.nicholaskirkwood.com
RELIVING OUR GIRL GUIDE/BOY SCOUT YEARS
05
by being totally prepared for any cocktail-loving occasion with this handy gizmo. The bar10der (geddit?) includes muddler, stirrer, knife, channel knife, zester, reamer, jigger, bottle opener and strainer – it’s the Swiss Army knife of the bar world. www.firebox.com
MAKING LIGHT WORK OF MIXING UP OLD-FASHIONEDS
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EIGHT
Seriously, just add rye, whisky or bourbon to the milk section of this ultra-cool milk jug/sugar bowl combo and you’ll have the classic recipe pretty much licked. Available from www.carolinemcgrath.co.uk
Lighting up our lives while being totally green. Check out the funky recycled lamps made from Bombay Sapphire, Jägermeister and Gordon’s gin bottles from reupcycled – they’re just the ticket for spirited eco-warriors. www.reupcycled.com
07. ADDING AN ADULT TWIST TO CHILD-LIKE DESSERTS
By serving up boozy jellies. To make, cube up a 135g pack of fruit jelly and dissolve in 150ml of boiling water. Add 200ml of cold water and 250ml of quality vodka. Pour into this kitsch vodka bottle jelly mould and leave to set overnight. Simple. Jelly mould available from www.prezzybox.com
Colour-coding our spirits and storing them in these beautiful cut-glass decanters. Available in six fashionable shades – that’s one for each of the major drinks categories. www.jasmineway.co.uk
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Embracing The Golden Age of Cocktails
Tout le monde has turned the clock back 80 or so years, inspired by the lushness of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire and Carey Mulligan. Try The Gatsby and The Daisy cocktails, together with the Flapper’s Platter on the menu at The Milestone Hotel. Available from early May. www.milestonehotel.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
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MAKING FACES The new vibrant Cocktail Collection from Swedish brand Make Up Store includes micro shadows in Cosmopolitan, Mint Julep and Curaçao shades. Inspiring? We certainly think so. www.makeupstore.se
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Keeping mint perky and fresh for spring-time Mojitos. Check out this Herb Keeper – it fits perfectly in your fridge door. www.mocha.uk.com
TWELVE
13. COMING OVER ALL VOGUE-LIKE
CALLING THE SHOTS
in the new season’s monochromatic trend. Strike a pose at the bar in 1960s Brigette Riley-esque op-art. Our favourite black-and-white look of all time? Cecil Beaton’s highly stylised Ascot scene in My Fair Lady. Our favourite look from the catwalk? Ralph Lauren’s white shirt and long, sweeping skirt, no question. www.ralphlauren.co.uk
Yes, it’s silly but you can’t be serious all the time. Try shooting your tequila from a novelty gun. www.firebox.com
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Getting down with it How’s this for ingenuity? Zane Lamprey’s Drinkmaster hoodie includes a bottle opener zipper, built-in drinking mitt and a pocket for your flask. We’re not saying drink irresponsibly but if you’re ever stuck in a forest, it’s good to be prepared, no? www.drinkingmadeeasy.com
16.
DEVELOPING A CRUSH ON BATHTUB GIN
SUPPORTING THE BEST OF BRITISH Not just its drinks but the independent set-ups such as The Littlecote Soap Co. Trust us, the junipery goodness in its G&T range of soaps, diffusers, hand wash, body lotion and candles is as good on the grooming front as it is in the glass. www.littlecotesoap.co.uk
8 - The Cocktail Lovers
Nothing illicit, we’re talking about the delicious range of homemade jams created with a healthy tot of spirit. The range includes London Pink Gin, and Manhattan Red Marmalade – perfect for perking up your toast and adding a whole new dimension to cocktails. www.bathtubginonline.com
17.
Shaking up our shower routine
with the three-in-one Senorita Margarita shampoo, shower gel and bubble bath from Philosophy. Not only does it leave you feeling tingly and fresh from top-to-toe, it also features a Margarita recipe on the bottle. Now that’s what we call a multi-tasking product. www.philosophy.com
19.
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Serving up spring punches
Getting flowered up
in the quirky and elegant cup and saucer sets from Tipsy Tea Cups. Tea-time has never been so swish. www.tipsyteacups.co.uk
at Belgraves, A Thompson Hotel. To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the world famous RHS Chelsea Flower Show, its Terrace will feature a living wall of edible flowers with complimentary Edible Flower Cocktail Classes. Bloomin’ marvellous. From 21-25 May, early booking advised. Email: restaurantbelgraves@thompsonhotels.com
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Investing in cocktail jewellery Life’s too short to mess around with costume pieces, so treat yourself to the real bling. Top of our wish-list: hot rocks and cool metals from H.Stern at Harrods. www.hstern.net
TWENTY THREE...
GOING ALL OUT FOR GLAMOUR
at Gerry Calabrese’s Baroque at The Playboy Club. What could be more decadent than a Champagne Tower made with two Jeroboams of Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 and 100g of Beluga Caviar on the side? We might not be able to stretch to the £11,350 for that little lot but a Caviar Spoon and a mini coupe of champers for £60 will do just nicely thank you very much. www.baroquemayfair.com
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SPORTING A TOP TITFER Weddings, polo matches, days at the races – all key cocktail moments and mega hat-wearing opportunities. Ladies, seek out one of the new creations by William Chambers for Coast – very well-priced and seriously chic. www.coast-stores.com
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…and gents, discover the titfers in the musicinspired Lock & Roll collection by James Lock & Co. With names such as R&B, The Jive and Summer Reverb they’re guaranteed to strike the right note. www.lockhatters.co.uk
LOOSENING OUR WAISTBANDS to partake in the fabulously indulgent Not Afternoon Tea at the Oxo Tower overlooking the River Thames in London. Choose from four menus of everso-slightly wicked sweet treats, each accompanied by a specially created cocktail. Available daily between 3pm and 5pm. www.harveynichols.com
25. Booking classes in The Cocktail Caravan Two hours, three drinks, one helluva cool setting, it’s our new favourite vehicle of all time. Also available for weddings, parties and tea-time gatherings – ideally all three. www.thecocktailcaravan.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 9
- IN THE HOTSEAT -
CLEO ROCOS A WOMAN OF MANY TALENTS, CLEO ROCOS IS PROBABLY BEST KNOWN FOR WORKING ALONGSIDE COMEDIAN KENNY EVERETT IN THE 1980S. SINCE THEN SHE’S CARVED OUT A NAME FOR HERSELF IN THE DRINKS INDUSTRY, PRODUCING HER OWN TEQUILA AND BECOMING PRESIDENT OF THE TEQUILA SOCIETY. HER BOOK ‘THE POWER OF POSITIVE DRINKING’ IS PUBLISHED IN APRIL.
IN-the spotlight
How did Kenny Everett’s sexy sidekick become an expert in drinks? “Kenny took me for my very first Margarita in Cafe Pacifico in Covent Garden and I’ve enjoyed my cocktails ever since. Mind you, I did have some really horrendous experiences with inferior tequila – horrid hangovers, shoddy cocktails and cheap shots – enough to make me think all tequila was bad. After tasting 100% agave tequila I couldn’t believe the difference. I was furious that I, along with many other people thought shoddy tequila was the norm. That’s when I became passionate about spreading the word. The UK’s Ambassador to Mexico heard about what I was doing and I was invited to his residence to taste these wonderful tequilas that weren’t available in the UK. I worked on getting them stocked in stores like Harvey Nichols before I decided to create my own.” Is it true that you and Kenny Everett were engaged for four days? “Four and a half actually! Yes, it’s true and no, it wasn’t alcohol-induced, it was a genuine engagement. But people made judgements and Kenny called it off. Of course I knew he was gay but that didn’t bother me at all – the two of us created such happy mischief together, we were almost beyond marriage. If he came back today and asked me again to marry him, I wouldn’t hesitate.” Your big spirit is tequila, what’s the appeal? “It reminds me of the reason I got into show business – it’s happy, glamorous, exuberant and fabulous. It allows people to be the best version of themselves.” What led you to produce your own tequila? “The more I got to know and taste various tequilas, the more I realised what was missing was a tequila for the UK palate. I went to Mexico and spent 10 months working with producers to come up with the recipe for AquaRiva – it’s 100% organic. I’m really proud of it; it’s very accessible, very pure and very, very tasty.” You’ve written, produced, acted, presented and created your own spirit. What’s on your passport? “Good question! I’ve recently renewed my passport and I honestly can’t remember what I’ve written down!” Is there a fine line between making drinking fun and drinking irresponsibly? How did you pitch the book to publishers? “There’s so much negativity surrounding alcohol but so many people drink. I’m not saying drink to get drunk, I advocate drinking responsibly. That means knowing what goes into your glass. Do you know how many chemicals there are in wine? It’s pretty shocking. I want to educate people – not in a patronising way but inform them to make better choices. Because I’ve been involved with spirits across all categories – gin, tequila, vodka, rum – I was able to propose it as a genuine, light-hearted but no-gimmick book – something that hasn’t been done before. I wanted to take the dentist chair element out of drinking and make it accessible.”
Do you have a favourite section in the book? [Big pause]: “Ooh, not really”. [Another pause] “Every section was fun to work on – is that boring?” What’s your favourite cocktail to (a) make at home; (b) order at the bar? “A Margarita every time. At home I’ll mix up a jug using my AquaRiva tequila, adding the organic agave syrup I’ve developed – it’s so much better than sugar and not at all fattening. It’s become a real favourite with my female friends, including Holly Willoughby. Richard Branson is also a big fan.” And your preferred drinking spots? “In London I love Cafe Pacifico, Coburg Bar at The Connaught hotel, the fabulous upstairs bar at Rules and, I haven’t been there yet but I’m looking forward to checking out Radio, on the rooftop of the recently opened ME Hotel.” Who are your favourite drinking characters, fictional or real? “Definitely James Bond for the glamour. When you think of him drinking, he’s always in the right setting and it leads to something exciting involving a gun or a girl!” What’s your one essential tip for positive drinking? “Drink quality alcohol and avoid the sugar – not only does it pile on the pounds but sugar causes massive mood swings, leading to depression. Substitute sugar with organic agave syrup instead.”
THE POSITIVE DRINKING MARGARITA 50ml 100% organic agave tequila (AquaRiva) 1-11/2 freshly squeezed limes 20ml organic agave syrup Twist of orange peel Wedge of lime Method: Take a piece of orange peel and squeeze around the rim of the glass. Fill a large tumbler with ice cubes to the rim. Put a large handful of ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Add all the ingredients and shake hard and fast for five seconds or until the shaker becomes frosted on the outside. Pour into the glass and finish with a wedge of lime, gently squeezed into the Margarita and placed on the ice in the glass. The Power of Positive Drinking published by Random House books is available from all good bookshops. RRP £9.99.
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
IN-spire
WHERE THE BARTENDERS DRINK THANK HEAVENS FOR THE AFFABLE BARTENDER. THEY’RE THERE WHEN YOU WANT TO CELEBRATE, COMMISERATE OR SIMPLY CHILL OUT WITH FRIENDS, BUT WHERE DO THEY GO WHEN THEY WANT TO DO THE SAME? WE PUT THE QUESTION TO RYAN CHETIYAWARDANA OF UPCOMING MR. LYAN BAR AND A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE BARTENDERS AROUND THE WORLD. I tend to index the places where us bartenders drink off-duty into two broad camps: the after work powerhour and the wider category of ‘the bartender’s night off ’. There is a crossover between the two – often in terms of venue and the drinks themselves, but the objectives are quite different. For instance, after a long shift, we’re both physically and (surprisingly, this often hurts more) mentally drained. We’ve been on our feet for hours, running around the bar, tasting drinks, problem solving and playing host to many different groups. Much like the patrons we’ve been chatting with over the past few hours, a tasty drink would relieve many problems. Often a beer with comrades at the end of the shift hits the spot but sometimes something altogether more involved is called for. The problem is, the motivation is either to exorcise the demons of a tough night, or to celebrate a particular glory from a great one. Both tend to point towards a more raucous scenario, which is something bartenders are well trained in. Having cleaned down the bar, the hours left to unwind in different surroundings are few and far between, and maintaining the reserves of energy are crucial. Generally we gravitate to bars offering good beer and shots of tasty bourbon, tequila and/or rum. The venues we choose when off-duty need to be energetic and these drinks fit the bill. This is why bars such as Garibaldi’s in Edinburgh and El Camion in London are such good bartender spots. They’re unpretentious, fun and cater to the community’s need; namely somewhere open late serving tasty drinks with some pumping music. Often I recommend the bars I’m happy to drink in to friends or guests. It’s an honest recommendation and one that I’m confident to endorse. I do also recommend bars I’ve not been to (an unfortunately large number in London), but usually on good words from friends and always with the disclaimer that it’s not from personal experience.
12 - The Cocktail Lovers
Sometimes you need to be spoilt, or you need to spoil someone, and there are bars that do this with aplomb in London. I put this down to the bar teams at the venues more than the settings (although, they too are far from shabby); Tom, Daniel, Erik and co. at The American Bar at The Savoy; Alex, Simone and the team at The Artesian and Rusty and Ago at the Connaught Bar are respected the world over for good reason. They make you feel like a million bucks – everyone needs to feel like a playboy every now and again. Similarly, there are bars with the ‘wow’ factor, perfect for cocktail newcomers and aficionados alike and experiences at Purl, Nightjar and Milk & Honey certainly bring a sense of theatre to a night of drinking. Then there are the bars that are simply great to drink in. This could be for a number of reasons. I love drinking cocktails, but a good cocktail isn’t always enough. I’m constantly upset by rudeness, so it’s great when you see some genuine examples of consummate service, or when there’s energy and passion in a bartender. Similarly, it’s wonderful to be in a bar that simply has the right balance to create an atmosphere that feels so special yet you can’t quite pin down why: it is so much more than the lighting, the music, the crowd, the hosting – different bars have it at different times, and sometimes it’s simply because they are reflecting a certain mood that you did or didn’t know you were after. A well chosen bar can really enhance any mood or occasion. Bramble in Edinburgh is still my favourite bar in the world, but in terms of London, notable favourites are Happiness Forgets, Callooh Callay, Hix, the Hunter S, Dabbous and the Hawksmoor bars. No doubt I’ve forgotten some, and certainly there’s many more to visit but we’re certainly spoilt for choice in London.
Often a beer with comrades at the end of the shift hits the spot but sometimes something altogether more involved is called for
THE BON VIVANT EDINBURGH & STOCKBRIDGE
POLITE PROVISIONS
SAN DIEGO
IN-spire
an intimate club, where you can relax, listen to the music and generally have a laugh. Outside Barcelona, one of the places I really miss since I left London is the Connaught Bar. I love its ultra-stylish décor with textured walls shimmering in platinum silver leaf overlaid with dusty pink, pistachio and lilac. Renowned for its perfect Martinis, I very much enjoy trying the experience of its Martini Trolley, quietly stirred, never shaken, by my friend, Ago Perrone.” (P. 18). Barcelona: Giuseppe Santamaria, Ohla Boutique Bar, Barcelona and World Class Best Bartender Spain 2012 “In New York, my go-to when hosting out-of-towners and also perfect for dates is the beautiful Raines Law Room that seems like it can only work in New York. Flatiron Lounge is one of the pioneers of the modern cocktail movement and it’s still at the top of its game. Mother’s Ruin isn’t particularly fancy but it’s a great neighbourhood bar with solid cocktails, while PDT is friendly and home to talented bartenders – it’s also great for dates. Another neighbourhood bar I like is Ward III. The bartenders own the place which you can tell by the hospitality – it’s my favourite spot when I need a friend. Then there’s Lighthouse, having dinner there is like eating in the owner’s home. Extra Fancy is another cool, fun restaurant and bar owned by great friends and fellow bartenders. Outside of New York, I like The Gale in Miami, bartenders John Lermayer and Josh Wagner have turned the entire Gale Hotel into a haven for bartenders. The Spare Room in Los Angeles is one of the most beautiful and coolest bars I have ever been to, while Williams & Graham in Denver is an institution thanks to boss Sean Kenyon, a third generation bartender. Polite Provisions in San Diego is very new and its owner Erick Castro is highly respected. In Portland, there’s Clyde Common, home to Jeffrey Morganthaler. He’s a leader in our industry – there’s always great banter when he’s behind the bar. As a member of Employees Only, I value and appreciate good teamwork and The Black Pearl in Melbourne has the best team I have ever come across – it’s my favourite bar on the planet. Then there’s Schumann’s Bar in Munich where the legend that is Charles Schumann still works round the clock at his home-based restaurant and bar. The Connaught Bar in London is the most beautiful bar I have ever seen. I can’t help but feel classy when I drink there. Trailer Happiness is another good London spot owned and operated by the most fun-loving bar men I know. Lastly, Bar Alchemy in Taiwan – owner/operator Angus Zou is the most polite and talented bartender that I have ever had the pleasure of meeting.” New York: Steve Schneider-Hadzismajlovic, Employees Only
“It’s hard to do a shortlist of favourite Paris bars because there are so many, but when I’m off duty I tend to stay close to République and le Marais as there’s a golden triangle of my favourites all within easy reach of one other. I love Bar Le Coq for many reasons: it has cool musicfrom Patti Smith to Serge Gainsbourg, great cocktails (I always go for the Fig Leaf Collins) and an amazing cheese with truffle. In addition, the team here are lovely and will look after you well. I help organise events for Little Red Door but I also love to drink there off-duty as it has a cosy, relaxed atmosphere, an impressive selection of craft spirits and beers, and the comfiest barstools ever. Another favourite is Le Marie Celeste, I love sitting at the bar and eating oysters. The décor makes me feel like I’m on holiday and should crack open a bottle of wine! Then, after visiting all of the above, with the money I’ve saved on cab fares, I also call in to Candelaria or L’Entrée des Artistes for a cheeky nightcap on my way home.” Paris: Jill Saunders, Little Red Door “When I get a day off from Milk & Honey, I like to spend it lounging around at Home House in Marylebone. There’s something about losing yourself in 250 years of architecture which is combined with the best modern facilities. I’ll find Mario or Ben behind the bar and generally order a Tanqueray No. TEN Martini with a twist of grapefruit before sitting on one of the plump sofas and watching the world go by. It doesn’t hurt that I can take my puppy there, nor that the head chef used to work at the Ritz, but it is member’s only though...” London: Dan Thompson, Milk & Honey “Edinburgh has so many great bars and pubs (in fact, more than one for every day of the year), but when I have a night off, I have one or two go-to hangouts depending on my mood. Of course, I love drinking in my own bars (The Bon Vivant, and The Bon Vivant Stockbridge), but if I fancy a cheeky drink elsewhere, I’ll head to either Bramble or The Last Word. Mike and Jas the owners of both bars are great friends of mine, but, that aside, their staff are awesome and always make me feel welcome – not to mention they make banging drinks! If I fancy getting away from the ‘cocktail scene’, I’ll head to The Canny Man in Morningside (really off-piste, but a must-see for anyone visiting the city), The Bow Bar (great whisky selection), or The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (there’s one in Leith, and in the city centre too – it’s great!) Very exciting times ahead too, with Mike and Jas opening another bar soon, and The Bon Vivant are also working on a project that will (hopefully) go live late June! Edinburgh: Stuart McCluskey, The Bon Vivant and The Bon Vivant Stockbridge
The Cocktail Lovers - 15
IN-spire
1. STYLE ICON
7. HISTORICAL FIGURE
“That has to be Frank Sinatra, someone who is renowned for style, music, nightlife and bar culture. He was always well groomed and very precise – we try to recreate some of that style here at the Connaught Bar with a link to nightlife, classic cocktails, elegance and romance.”
“Dalai Lama, one of the most inspirational figures of all time.”
2. FOOD “I can’t lie, like all good Italians, I love local food – real flavours and fresh ingredients from my garden – I love the smell and the taste. I don’t have a favourite restaurant, I’m more into the kind of food that mama used to make. My Italian heritage has been good for my profession; it’s given me a real appreciation for fresh produce.”
8. BUILDING “The pyramids in Mexico. It’s fascinating to think they were constructed thousands of years ago and are still there – so solid, so precise – you can feel the energy when you stand under them – they are absolutely amazing.” 9. MUSICIAN “When I was a teenager I really loved Queen. They weren’t just rock and roll, they were inspirational with their melodies and lyrics.”
3. FILM
10. DESIGNER
“Italians are romantic, we like to be smooth, therefore I choose La Dolce Vita. Iconic for Italian style – it really is Italian cinema at its best. This is when actors started to export the Italian lifestyle – like the Aperitivio and Martinis sipped by stars such as Marcello Mastroianni. As an Italian abroad, I love this era.”
“Giorgio Armani – his designs are pure class. They’re comfortable, understated, elegant and glamorous – a bit like Frank Sinatra.”
4. ARTIST “Bruce Lee is my favourite artist. Most people know him as a fighter, actor, martial artist and producer but he was a great philosopher. I admire the way he approached life, he was a firm believer in you can get what you want in every situation. One of his big philosophies was that we should be like water – fluid, getting through the cracks. Water can get you anywhere. I love this mentality and practice his teachings in life and work. In fact, in most day-to-day situations I think: “What would Bruce Lee do?” and that guides me. I like the martial art approach to life – it’s balanced, very spiritual and grounded.” 5. VIEW “Again, I go back to heritage and passion. My favourite view is the one I had as a child, looking out from my bedroom window in Lake Como. Every morning I would open the curtains and see a mountain, the beautiful lake and sunshine making different shapes each season. It’s a wonderful visual that has given me the inspiration for my other great passion, photography.” 6. JOURNEY “For me, every day is a journey. It’s important to keep learning on a daily basis, getting inspiration from different people and situations all the time. For a physical journey? That would definitely be the first time I went to Mexico.”
11. RETREAT “Back home in Lake Como where the colours change each season and I’m reminded how lucky I am to have this as my heritage.” 12. INSPIRING QUOTE “I have one of my own: “it doesn’t matter what you do but how you do it” – I say that to all the team here at the Connaught Bar. Also, as my late dear friend Henry Besant would say: “whatever you do, whether small or large, make it your best.” 13. SHOP “I don’t have a favourite shop, I prefer going to local markets. You see real people in them and they really tell you everything you need to know about the place you’re in.” 14. TECHNOLOGY “Less is better but this brick [pointing to his iPhone] is always useful.” 15. PERSON “My wife Gaby. She gives me energy, keeps me grounded, gives me support and she’s extremely beautiful. It’s true: behind every man there’s a good woman. Mind you, she’s lucky too!” 16. POSSESSION “My camera.” The Connaught Bar, 16 Carlos Place, W1K 2AL. T: 020 7314 3419. www.the-connaught.co.uk
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IN-the spotlight
THE BEGINNINGS It’s thought that the crafty Benedictine monks of Salerno, Italy first created gin back in the eleventh century by brewing juniper flavoured medicinal potions. But it was over 400 years until it made the transition to a social drink. When the Dutch learned the art of distilling from grain in the late fifteenth century and needed something to disguise the harshness of the spirits created, juniper berries and other spices were added. The drink known as genever was born, taking its name from the French word for juniper. The height of gin’s popularity was also its darkest time. At the start of the eighteenth century, it was so cheap and readily available in London that the city fell into a state of drunken despair, a period now known as gin mania. It’s at this time that William Hogarth created his famous print Gin Lane, which depicts a scene on St. Giles High Street where – among other distressing images – a drunk woman is shown letting her child fall from her arms to its death. Gin was, literally, a mother’s ruin. Reacting to this widespread chaos, Parliament passed a law in 1751 known as the Tippling Act, designed to control the production and sale of gin. Consumption dropped dramatically and the emphasis switched to quality, crafted gins; the industry as we now know it was born. London quickly became a centre for gin production. The necessary spices and ingredients came in from around the world via the River Thames, and by 1790 more than 90% of England’s gin was being produced in riverside distilleries across the City, Westminster and Southwark. International sales also grew and by 1794 London was home to over 40 distilleries including Gordon’s, Beefeater, Tanqueray and Booth’s.
THE DECLINE As taxes and legislations increased, some of the city’s smaller distilleries closed, but many more held strong and helped London dominate the world’s gin production for over 150 years. It was only from the 1970s onwards that the gin industry in the capital started to decline. Gin drinking dropped as vodka grabbed a huge slice of the market. Though an older spirit than gin, it wasn’t until a number of brands started up in the USA in the 1950s and 1960s that it caught our attention. Heavily branded and marketed as a new, fun, very mixable spirit, it won many fans among younger imbibers. Before long, gin was left in the shade. The second reason was profitability. The main distilleries had by now all been bought out and incorporated into massive organisations where revenues were being carefully watched. Over recent years, the value of land in central London has rocketed and these companies saw the benefit of moving their distilleries away from the big city and into cheaper areas. The fact that gins can still use the iconic ‘London Dry Gin’ descriptor even if they are not made in London, was no doubt a factor in this. As long as distillers continued to follow the ‘London style’ of gin, the title remained. When
Gordon’s moved first to Essex and then Scotland in 1984, Beefeater became the last remaining large-scale gin distillery in London; even they no longer bottle on-site, instead transporting the gin to a plant in Scotland.
THE RE-BIRTH At the start of 2009, there were two gin distilleries left in London: Beefeater in Kennington and Thames Distillery in Clapham Junction. By the end of the year that number had doubled, and currently is more than twice that again. It’s been muted that the economic downturn has played a big part in its resurgence; research shows that distilleries and craft breweries tend to grow in number during a recession due to cheaper land prices. Arguably, though, the current trend for craft gin production is down to the forwardthinking attitude of one company: Sipsmith. Sam Galsworthy, Fairfax Hall and Master Distiller Jared Brown launched Sipsmith in 2009. When they did, they transformed a tiny lock-up in Hammersmith into the first London gin distillery in almost 200 years. Inspired by the US where a change in licensing laws had led to a boom in craft distilleries, they focused on producing a small-batch of boutique gin. They even insisted on using traditional copper pots and a single distillation method as is most traditional. They won accolades not just for the end product, but also for their artisanal approach. Sipsmith can now be found on the menus of London’s top drinking spots as well as supermarket shelves, the ‘sip smiths’ have an audience as far afield as America, and are looking for new, bigger premises – within London, of course. Sacred, based in Highgate, was the second gin distillery to launch in 2009. Making Sipsmith look like a big operation, it’s produced in the back room of a residential property in north London. It’s London’s only vacuum distillery, producing spirits at a low temperature in glassware, but the principles of craftsmanship and artisanship are a match for those of Sipsmith. Perhaps as a reaction to the success of these two companies, London has seen a rush of boutique distilleries. Jensen’s in Bermondsey is becoming well known in drinks circles for its 1830s-style gin, Little Bird from Peckham is gaining popularity for its tangy citrus and ginger product, and the London Distillery Company is enjoying experimental forays into the world of gin alongside its whisky making. The newest and most exciting addition to the list is the City of London Distillery, which has brought gin production back to the heart of the City, where it all started in the 18th century. What’s particularly special about this launch is that it’s not just about the making of the gin, but the drinking of it too; it’s the first launch to incorporate a gin bar as a main feature. With Beefeater announcing the launch of London’s first distillery visitor-centre including a bar; the new Port House on Strand specialising in gin and tapas; and London’s cocktail menus becoming increasingly gin-drenched, the city looks set for another round of gin mania. Hopefully this time there’ll be fewer casualties.
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IN-the spotlight
A question of taste... Bitters, think of them as the essential condiment for your cocktails; the salt and pepper if you will. Just a couple of dashes adds extra ‘oomph’ to even the simplest of drinks. Everything from flirty Champagne cocktails and plain old gin and tonics through to big boy Manhattans and robust Old-Fashioneds get more balance, more complexity, and more interest when bitters are added to the mix. The same can be said for their effect in food. Yes, food. In the Caribbean, no home is complete without a bottle of bitters to wake and shake up pretty much everything that comes out of the kitchen. Actually, strike that. No Caribbean kitchen is complete without a bottle of Angostura aromatic bitters. A tiny amount of this liquid powerhouse goes a long, long way to tease out and enhance every last drop of flavour in stews, delicate cheese dishes, fish, soups, and salad dressings – even cakes and ice cream succumb to its spell. It’s like some kind of magical elixir adapting itself to marry the flavours of any ingredients you throw at it. If this bitters and food love-in sounds like something modern and cheffy, study that all too familiar oversized label a little closer. Also bear in mind, said label hasn’t changed a jot since Dr. Siegert concocted the secret recipe as a cure-all in 1824.
“Because of its delightful flavour and aroma it has become extremely popular for use in soft drinks, cocktails and other alcoholic beverages. It also imparts an exquisite flavour to soups, salads, vegetables, gravies, fish, meat, fruit juices, grapefruit, mixed cut fruits, stewed prunes, stewed figs, preserved fruits, jellies, sherbets, water-ices, ice cream, sauces for puddings, hard sauces, plum pudding, mince and fruit pies, apple sauce and all similar desserts, regulating the quantity according to taste.” Rita Held, a culinary consultant for 20 years can’t get enough of them. Granted she’s been a spokeswoman
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for the company for the past three years but the passion she exudes about the way a simple splash can transform every major food group goes beyond being on any pay roll – the bitters bug has got her well and truly hooked. “In the US, and I think other parts of the world, bitters is something unknown in food,” she says as we chat at Angostura HQ in Trinidad. “For me, it’s a tastebud tantaliser! It adds an extra layer of flavour; a subtle but oh-so vibrant kick. If you love dark chocolate and dark coffee, you will love Angostura bitters,” she enthuses. We got to try chef Jason Heath’s bitters-based menu at a special lunch at the Hyatt Hotel during our stay in Trinidad. Everything from the artisan green salad to the herb encrusted red snapper and guava cheesecake was heightened with Angostura bitters, either in a vinaigrette, infusion, marinade or glaze. And boy did it do the trick, pairing up perfectly with each of the rum cocktails (Angostura, naturally) created by Jamie Stephenson. “In a way, Angostura is what fish sauce or anchovy is in foods,” continues Held. “Not the same flavour but the same background enricher without which a dish would be a tad boring.” She now uses a generous splash in gravies and stews, chicken, lamb, seafood “as well as fish chowder, tartare sauce, barbecue sauce – the list is endless.” So much so that the brand chose to tie-in with All Mixed Up, a three-part reality cooking show in America which challenged students and aspiring chefs to whip up original recipes using the product. Smart move. Not only did this put bitters in the spotlight, it opened up its manifold uses to a culinary audience hungry for new ideas. “The surprising thing is that Angostura aromatic bitters is that it is not at all bitter when added to food,” says All Mixed Up winner Emman Christopher Eugenio (above, right). “They are potent but the sweet cinnamon and herbal aromatic flavour is fantastic when treated with respect, it enhances the flavour and adds depth to pretty much every ingredient – sweet or savoury.” Add a bottle to your kitchen cupboard now.
IN-the spotlight
The Cocktail Lovers - 25
IN-focus
ELABORATE VS
LOW KEY WE’RE TALKING GARNISHES, NOW COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET AND MAKING A HEADLINING PERFORMANCE IN A GLASS NEAR YOU
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IN-dulge
Licensed to chill The golden rule of cocktail making is to always use plenty of ice. Cubes straight from the freezer are fine for everyday use but when you’re in entertaining mode, max up your points in the style stakes by showing off a well-designed ice bucket. Take your pick from these cool little numbers…
FOR MAXIMUM CURVE APPEAL: Sinuous stainless steel ice bucket, complete with matching tongs. Sagaform Club Ice Bucket Set, £73.55, Dotmaison. www.dotmaison.com
FOR UPDATED 1960S STYLE: Paul Smith’s nod to the classic Jacobsen bar series from the 1960s, designed to celebrate Stelton’s 50th anniversary. Paul Smith Statement Ice Bucket, £269, Occa-Home. www.occa-home.co.uk
FOR SERIOUSLY COOL CUSTOMERS: Beautifully crafted crystal ice bucket offset with Asprey hallmarked sterling silver handle. Game Ice Bucket, £1,400, and Game Ice Tongs, £445, Asprey. www.asprey.com
FOR GETTING THE PARTY STARTED, RIGHT:
Fun and funky cork ice bucket with lid and plastic inner lining. Materia – The Big Design, Gelo Ice Bucket with lid, £253, Made In Design. www.madeindesign.co.uk
FOR CHAMPAGNE LOOKS AT CAVA PRICES: Doubled-walled, sleek-as-you-like stainless steel lidded ice bucket and hooped tongs with a polished mirror finish. Nick Munro Trombone Ice Bucket and Tongs, £60, John Lewis. www.johnlewis.com
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globally in the past decade. It’s great to see the sort of people who used to be happy drinking or serving vodka sodas debating about the relative merits of different bitters and universally celebrating the Negroni.” AM: “Pride and passion have finally found a place in the drinks industry on all levels. There are spirits producers who are passionate about their products. There are bartenders who have more in common with chefs when it comes to pride in their work. A great short-order cook has a compatriot in a great high-volume bartender. A breakthrough creative chef has a twin at the bar, the talented mixologist. A gregarious celebrity chef even has a match amid the bar personalities who have and are making names for themselves amongst consumers. Good? Yes.” Masterclasses, research, writing, public speaking, projects for drinks companies – which of these do you prefer doing and why? JB: “All of the above. It’s as much a passion and an obsession as it is a profession. While sharing discoveries with the industry is a great pleasure, private research – information that never sees the light of day unless a brand decides to release it – is too. The thrill, as they say, is in the chase.” AM: “You have to think of this more as rock ‘n’ roll. You go into seclusion to write songs, record an album. The world is your research library, your inspiration. Once you’ve got one in the can, you go on the road to perform what you’ve done, the new stuff, the old stuff, the stuff that makes your audience
come alive. I love doing it all it. Depends on where in the cycle we are at that given moment. Right now, we’re gearing up for new research and road shows simultaneously.” What are your tipples of choice? JB: “Gin, vermouth, rum, whiskey, whisky, tequila, sherry, vermouth (worth mentioning twice here), port, real ales, good lager, mescal, cachaça, amaros, liqueurs, Champagne, cognac, cava, rosé, but never soft drinks or cider.” AM: “Gin, vodka, aged rum, bourbon, scotch and all of the drinks that lie within.” What are you working on at the moment? JB: “An exhaustive trilogy on the history of Cuban rum (we’re editing and publishing it – the writer is Cuba’s top rum scholar); The Drinker’s Almanac, a compendium with all the random facts and anecdotes we’ve uncovered in the past 20 years; an article on new Paris bars for the Financial Times; and new (I should really say ‘old’) product development for Sipsmith (see p. 20).” AM: “Editing the three-volume magnum opus of Cuba’s preeminent Cuban rum historian which we will publish in Spanish and English this year. Getting ready to hit the road on a few research missions in the next two months. And writing the historical libretto for a large project in London.” For details of Anistatia and Jared’s books including their latest ‘The Deans of Drink’ (see p. 58), upcoming talks, projects and their free online research library, see www.mixellany.com
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IN-dependent spirits
New York State of mind Three creative minds, one big idea: to create a working distillery with a bar on site. Welcome to the New York Distilling Company
If Jay Gatsby were throwing one of his trademark lavish parties today, we reckon he’d source his gin from the New York Distilling Company. Why wouldn’t he? Even the names of the two juniper-licious labels are Great Gatsbyesque: Perry’s Tot and Dorothy Parker. One is strong and broody, the other is all feisty and bright. You couldn’t channel the spirit of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s characters more aptly if you tried. While the company doesn’t produce anything remotely illicit, like the booze in The Great Gatsby which was set in 1925 at the height of Prohibition the spirits here were borne from a desire to create an independent distillery and bar in urban USA, much like the set-ups of that era. The difference is, its three founders Allen Katz and father and son team Tom and Bill Potter wanted their venture to be 100% legit. It’s a romantic idea that became reality thanks to the passing of the New York Farm Distillery Law of 2003 which allowed small producers to sell their products on site.
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“We’re one of three distilleries in the country with a fullylicensed bar,” says Katz proudly. “We looked at nearly 40 spaces over five to six months but really, there were only so many that could reasonably work. The zoning had to be right first and foremost. Then there was budget of course. This space suited everything we were looking for and more importantly, allows us room to grow into it.” The space in question is 5,000 metres of Brooklyn real estate. True, the corrugated steel shed in a grey part of Williamsburg is not one of the prettiest of buildings or set in the most salubrious of locations. That’s on the outside. Step in and its beauty is evident. There’s the size for starters. Cleverly divided into an impressive working distillery filled with shiny tanks, barrels and distilling gizmos, there’s room for office space and, here’s the best bit, The Shanty, a fully operational bar serving amongst other delights, cocktails made with the two gins produced in the room next door. Take a seat at the bar and glimpse through to the distillery. “It’s quite a painting isn’t it?” offers Katz. It certainly works for us. Particularly when the cocktails in our glasses contain Perry’s Tot, a heavy on the spice British Navy Strength style spirit coming in at a hefty 57%, and the Dorothy Parker, a modern, light floral American variation aimed at a new gin-drinking market.
IN-dependent spirits
“The two gins are our flagship products,” explains Bill. He’s Potter Junior. Having previously worked in fine dining, he’s now charged with the role of production manager/distiller at the year-old operation. “We spent about a year prior to opening developing the recipes. We each had experience from different sides of the business and as Allen would say, ‘we knew what we were doing but none of us had ever done it before.” Tom, Potter Senior came closest. As co-founder of the Brooklyn Brewery nearby, he does have valuable insight in producing alcoholic beverages. He left beer in 2004 and turned his mind to spirits four years later. Thank heavens – the products not only taste distinctive, they’re packaged to look different from anything else. We spotted the two labels in the majority of the New York bars we visited. With world-renowned graphic designer Milton Glaser (he of the iconic ‘I love NY’ logo) putting his stamp on the bottles it’s little wonder they stand out from the rest.
l-r: bill potter, tom potter and allen katz
“We’re purposefully different,” says Katz. “We don’t want to be so esoteric that we’re strange or out of place but we did feel we could add something to the conversation of gin.” And rye. The first release New York Distilling Company Rock and Rye will be available in the next few months, while its whiskey will follow in 2014. Check the website for updates. The Shanty, 79 Richardson Street, NY 11222, New York. www.nydistilling.com Visit the distillery for tastings and tours: Sat & Sun from 3-5pm
We don’t want to be so esoteric that we’re strange or out of place but we did feel we could add something to the conversation of gin.
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Bar Américain at Brasserie Zédel GET THE DRINKS IN AT...
DIAL ‘G’ FOR GLAMOUR: Lee wears cream blazer, £35, matching waistcoat, £35 and matching trousers, £35, all by Red Line at Debenhams; white poplin shirt, £115 and blue and pink floral tie, £45, both Budd Shirtmakers. Shoes, stylist’s own. Vilte wears cream silk velvet ‘Goodbye to Berlin’ coat with ostrich feather collar and cuffs, £1,820, and ‘Nathalie’ silk satin bias-cut dress, £1,240, both made-to-order by Joanne Fleming Designs; The Great Gatsby rose turban, £695, Sylvia Fletcher at James Lock & Co.; long freshwater pearl leaf rope necklace, £189, Kohatu & Petros.
IN-style
That Baz Luhrmann sure knows how to create a cinematic feast. His gloriously over-the-top film Moulin Rouge is a case in point. But the one that fashion, film and interior geeks are excited about ahead of its première in Cannes on the 10th May is the sumptuously elaborate 3D adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatbsy. It’s got drinks fans in a tizzy, too. Not for nothing was this period known as the Golden Age of Cocktails. Back in the days when being gay was a mood not a sexual preference, it was all about decadence, glamour and fun. Fancy drinks, sexy barware and splendid surroundings were very much part of the package. There are a plethora of great bars serving classic cocktails; some even have a touch of 1920s refinement thrown in for good measure. But none do it with such aplomb as Bar Américain. It’s more than just the look of this magnificent place in all its painstakingly restored Art Deco glory (you might remember it in its former incarnation as the equally alluring Dick’s Bar), it’s the entire package. The all-day cafe upstairs and recession-friendly but super sophisticated brasserie below take care of things on the foodie front. But Jeremy Corbin and Chris King have got the drinks and entertainment offering down pat too. Slip into your finery and book a table in the intimate cabaret space, the Crazy Coqs. Alternatively, skip the performance and take a seat for theatre of a different kind in the showstopping glory of Bar Américain.
Joining the cast of elegant but simplistic classic drinks including the signature Chrysler cocktail, see above (cognac, port, Chambord, orange curaçao and Campari), are two new theatrical tableside serves designed to offer guests a genuine cocktail experience. Choose from either rye or vintage liqueurs – both expressions will be presented on an Art Deco tray and come with two tasting glasses of the spirit, along with carefully devised aroma and flavour experiences. Gatsby gear optional. Bar Américain, Brasserie Zédel, 20 Sherwood Street, W1F 7ED. T: 020 7734 4888. www.brasseriezedel.com BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS: (above): Alberto wears red and navy blazer, £670, white shirt, £99, cream trousers, £250, bow tie, £49, all from the limited-edition The Great Gatsby Collection at Brooks Brothers. Francesco wears navy blazer with striped trim lapel, £670, white button-collar shirt, £99, cream trousers, £250, striped tie, £69, all from The Great Gatsby Collection at Brooks Brothers. Monika wears ribbon tweed drop waist dress, £250, Jaeger; Aurora Sinamay turban, £1,200, Lock Couture by Sylvia Fletcher at James Lock & Co; Opera length layered pearl necklace, £998, pearl drop earrings, £85, large freshwater pearl ring, £145, all Dower & Hall; long pearl necklace, £149, Kohatu & Petros; jewelled bracelet, £79, Parkside at Fenwick.
Lee Hyde is a class act in front and behind the bar. His role is to ensure guests are treated to a first-class experience every time they visit. And he and his team including our models Francesco Lavilla, Vilte Bertulyte, Monika Gac and Alberto Jiminez do not disappoint. Service comes with a genuine smile, cocktails are served speedily and efficiently and the ambience is like being an extra in Luhrman’s highly anticipated film.
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IN-style
STAR ATTRACTION: Clockwise from top: Lee wears waistcoat and trousers from bespoke 3-piece dinner suit, £6,030, from Huntsman; white collar attached Marcello wing collar shirt, £125, white Marcello bow tie, £75, both Budd Shirtmakers. Monika wears corseted ivory cotton satin fishtail gown with piped detail and matching bolero, £2,200, made to order, Renaissance Couture; ostrich feather trim headband, price on application, Joanne Fleming Designs; knot multi-layered necklace, £688, pearl drop earrings, £85, large freshwater pearl ring, £145, all Dower & Hall. Francesco wears green tweed jacket, £1,115, beige trousers £195, both from Huntsman; white button-collar shirt, £99, The Great Gatsby Collection at Brooks Brothers; bright pink pelican and friends Foulard tie, £45, Budd Shirtmakers. Vilte wears nude silk Marilyn dress, £250, Henry Hunt; Jewelled headband, £150, Emma Fielden.
STOCKIST DETAILS: Brooks Brothers 150 Regent Street, W1B 5SJ. T: 020 3238 0030. www.brooksbrothers.com Budd Shirtmakers 3 Piccadilly Arcade, SW1Y 6NH. T: 020 7493 0139. www.buddshirts.co.uk Debenhams 334-348 Oxford Street, W1C 1JG. T: 0844 561 6161. www.debenhams.com Dower & Hall 39 Brushfield Street, E1 6AA. T: 020 7377 5544. www.dowerandhall.com Emma Fielden T: 01273 746205 Fenwick 63 New Bond Street, W1A 3BS. T: 020 7629 9161. www.fenwick.co.uk Francis Bryan www.francisbryan.com Henry Hunt www.henryhunt.co.uk Huntsman 11 Savile Row, W1S 3PS. T: 020 7734 7441. www.h-huntsman.com Jaeger 200-206 Regent Street, W1B 5BN. T: 020 7979 1100. www.jaeger.co.uk James Lock & Co. 6 St. James’s Street, SW1A 1EF. T: 020 7930 8674. www.lockhatters.co.uk Joanne Fleming Designs 8a Pavilion Parade, Brighton, East Sussex BN2 1RA. T: 07404 147616. www.joanneflemingdesign.com Kohatu & Petros 58 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QZ. T: 020 7486 7737. www.kohatuandpetros.com Renaissance Couture www renaissancecouture.com
IN-style
FLAPPERS DELIGHT: Monika wears ribbon tweed drop waist dress, £250, Jaeger; Aurora Sinamay turban, £1,200, Lock Couture by Sylvia Fletcher at James Lock & Co.; gold sandals, £350, Francis Bryan; Opera length layered pearl necklace, £998, pearl drop earrings, £85, large freshwater pearl ring, £145, all Dower & Hall; long pearl necklace, £149, Kohatu & Petros; jewelled bracelet, £79, Parkside at Fenwick.
IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD
Cucina Asellina
Dishoom
ME Hotel, 336-337 Strand, WC2R 1HA . T: 020 7395 3445. www.me-by-melia.com
7 Boundary Street, E2 7JE. T: 020 7420 9324. www.dishoom.com/shoreditch
Who: Mainly touristy types but also popular with families.
Who: Tastemakers who like to spice things up.
What: Classic Italian fare with an emphasis on homemade pasta and flatbreads straight from the wood-fired oven. The recently added tavolata menu with large sharing bowls of pasta is also a big draw.
What: Authentic Bombay café food with a London twist.
Why: Good prices, great location, smart decor. When: Whenever you’re in the mood for rustic Italian dishes for brunch, lunch or dinner.
Why: When you want to treat your tastebuds to a full-on flavour experience. When: Breakfast through to dinner via deliciously aromatic cocktails including cool non-alcoholic varieties. Wear: Hoxton hipster.
Ms S says: Pleasant light and airy space designed to appeal to budget-conscious urbanites. Hot dish: Calamari fritti, tomato relish and fresh marjoram from the antipasti section – crispy, fresh and delicious. Cool cocktail: Keep it simple with one of the four Italian classics on the menu, including a refreshing Aperol Spritz (Aperol, Prosecco, soda) – guaranteed to hit the spot for most.
Ms S says: Now here’s a venture where the cocktails really are a match for the inventive dishes coming from the kitchen. I loved the look, feel and flavours of this place – clever, classy and cool. Hot dish: So many to choose from but I’ll go for the lamb raan bun (above), an innovative take on the burger with slowcooked pulled lamb piled in a sourdough bun served with a deliciously tangy salad and teeny weeny fries. Cool cocktail: East India Gimlet (Bombay Dry gin, Rose’s lime and celery bitters) – the perfect accompaniment for all of the spice dishes.
Mr G says: The understated interior and easy going service make this the kind of place to swing by for a bit of brunch or before the theatre. Hot dish: The wild mushroom flatbread with fortina cheese, one of the signature dishes, was easily my favourite thing – simple ingredients, well prepared, piping hot and a nice accompaniment to the drinks. Cool cocktail: Whilst lacking an Italian angle the Delicata (Ketel One vodka, Bombay Sapphire gin, Lillet Blanc aperitif wine and St. Germain elderflower liqueur) was a nice take on a Vesper and sat well with my calamari starter.
Mr G says: I absolutely loved the vibe of this place – bang on in hitting the right balance between smart and informal. Hot dish: Everything was tip-top but rewinding to the start the Far Far made the perfect snack to join a spicy Martini, being somewhere between a crisp and cracker. Extremely colourful too. Cool cocktail: The Bombay Martini (Tanqueray Rangpur gin, Antica Formula vermouth, Noilly Prat vermouth and Dishoom bitters) was not unsurprisingly complex with lots of depth and a very long finish. Perfect as an aperitif or accompaniment to the excellent food.
Wear: All tribes welcome.
Caviar House & Prunier 161 Piccadilly, W1V 9DF. T: 020 7408 2900. www.caviarhouse-prunier.com Who: Luxury lovers in need of a quick foodie fix. What: Sexy light bites and premium spirits to eat and drink in or take away. Why: To perch at the counter and eat top-notch seafood. When: Lunchtime through to early evening – perfect for lunches, celebrating that special purchase in nearby Bond Street and pre-theatre treats. Wear: Dress up, dress down, neither will be out of place. Ms S says: Add this to your list for luxurious but low-key lunches and romantic seafood suppers. I love the cocktail recommendations for each dish. Hot dish: The silky smooth, very delicate yet packed with flavour Balik smoked salmon sitting on a springy soft, giant blini and served with a dollop of caviar. For a bigger treat: definitely the seafood platter. Cool cocktail: Caviar House Cucumber Martini – perky, fresh and the ideal partner for the quality seafood served. Mr G says: Considering this place is selling Champagne and caviar the design and the service combine easily to make it incredibly relaxed and welcoming. Perfect for a treat or date. Hot dish: Whether you go for the Jersey or the Essex oysters you can’t go wrong, with a selection of dressings, they work especially well with a Martini. Cool cocktail: I’d be happy to find the Beluga Martini (Beluga Vodka, blossom water, ginger, cucumber) anywhere at anytime but it was especially welcome alongside those oysters.
The Cocktail Lovers - 47
IN-formed
TALES FROM THE BAR Los Angeles
By Yolanda Evans www.imwithyolandae.blogspot.co.uk
Going out to bars and drinking is fun, but once in a while, it’s nice to curl up with a good book or two. Being that I’m at my parent’s house, I have loads of downtime to catch up on my reading. On the top of my list is The Drunken Botanist by Amy Stewart. I have been eagerly waiting for this book about how unusual, illegal, amoral and common plants have produced some of the world’s greatest spirits since I took Stewart’s seminar during Tales of the Cocktail last July. It’s an intoxicating read that not only unearths a fascinating botanical history with booze, but also features over 50 drinks recipes along with useful gardening tips for growing your own cocktail garden. The second book is about vodka. I love me some vodka. Always have since it first touched my lips when I was 12. But not everyone feels the same way as I do. Even though it’s popular with consumers, this spirit is much despised in the world of craft cocktails, with many bartenders preferring gin. Famed mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim is doing his best to change that opinion with his latest book, Vodka Distilled: The Modern Mixologist on Vodka and Vodka Cocktails. In it, he explores the history and production as well as profiling 60 diverse vodkas from around the world in hope of renewing appreciation for this unpopular spirit. Along with the breakdown about vodka, there’s a collection of 25 classic and contemporary cocktail recipes selected, adapted, or created by Abou-Ganim in order to showcase vodka’s true character that will surely put a smile on any vodka hater face.
CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH 24 April: St. George’s Day/Shakespeare’s birthday
British Royal 25ml British Cassis liqueur Chapeldown British sparkling wine Method: Add the British Cassis to a chilled Champagne flute. Add the sparkling wine and stir together. Serve immediately.
21-25 May: RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Scents and Sensibility 10ml lemon juice 50ml lychee juice 30ml iris flavoured gin (Blue Magellan) 100ml sparkling rose wine Rose petals and nasturtiums Method: In a shaker, mix together juice and gin. In a tall glass, add rose petals, nasturtiums and ice. Pour contents of shaker into glass. Top with sparkling wine. By Salvatore Maggio, Belgraves, A Thompson Hotel
Melbourne
By Justyn Bell, British bartender abroad The casual restaurant and bar culture in Melbourne is exceptional. Recently, like in the UK, there’s been a revolution in the ‘small bar’ scene, some say to the point of over saturation, but for me this is great. I prefer cosy bars, and there’s always room for more in my opinion. Some highlights are the hospitality hangout Lily Blacks (ice block and shot central), the infamous Black Pearl, Bar Americano (literally standing space for 10, with a hatch outside for coffees to go), and The Beaufort. But I must say the jewel in the crown is The Everleigh. Never before have I seen the Prohibition theme executed with such precision and style – it’s glamorous with just the right mix of frivolity for a playful mood. There’s plenty of vintage bar kit and cocktail books to keep the most serious of cocktail geeks salivating. And the attention to detail is continued into the drinks, shaken with ice blocks and served with a flourish into ornate glassware. The greatest tasting Sour I ever supped was within these beautifully-crafted walls.
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21 June: Summer Solstice
Tropical Sunrise (non-alcoholic) 20ml Monin Passion Fruit syrup 100ml mango juice 10ml lemon juice Lemonade Method: Build first three ingredients into highball glass filled with ice cubes. Top with lemonade. By James Costin, Monin UK
IN-formed The
Cocktail
Girl
In pursuit of spiritual enlightenment in London’s bars
WORLD GIN DAY IS COMING… on 15th June. Celebrate with this spiffing G ‘n’ Tea set available from www.productofyourenvironment.co.uk
LAST ORDERS I’m not a beer girl (the clue is in the name), so when I rocked up at The Well & Bucket in all its craft beer glory (18 to be precise), I admit I felt slightly faint. I’d been told this address was home to a new, cool cocktail bar but how anyone would ever be able to get anything that required shaking or, more time consuming still, stirring, with such busy crowds was beyond me. Luckily, I spotted a neon sign out of the corner of my eye. It beckoned guests downstairs and I obligingly followed. What a relief! There, through an unassuming door, I found a haven. In complete contrast to the hubbub upstairs, this was subdued, secluded and seductive – just what I needed. Going by the name of 5cc, the atmosphere down here is so relaxed, it’s verging on horizontal. You can either sit pride of place at one of the few seats at the bar, take a pew at the shared bench with high stools that run along the centre of the room or cosy up in one of the three alcoves. All in all, there’s room for 40 people max – no standing, which just adds to the personal feel of the place. Aged spirits are a speciality. So much so, they’d completely run out within five weeks of opening! Hard to believe I know, who knew east Londoners had such an appetite for vintage other than their clothes? No matter, we got to taste two of the cocktails made with regular spirits: the Kanaloa, a twist on the Flip, combining coconut porter, egg yolks, spices and spiced rum with a dusting of nutmeg on top. Light this ain’t, in fact think of it as the Roman Abramovich of cocktails – overly rich and a tad indulgent. Our other drink was a Colonial Old-Fashioned (whisky infused with Chai spices and casked aged spices). This one was a nice twist on the classic and highly recommended as an after dinner treat. This little gem is a great spot for beer fans and cocktail lovers alike.
Grammy awardwinning R&B singer, songwriter, producer, actor and all-round cool dude Ne-Yo is ambassador for Malibu Red, where Caribbean rum meets Mexican tequila for a party in a glass. We asked him to share his imaginary last drink with us. What would your last drink be? My signature drink is a Red Pocket Square. It’s Malibu Red with tonic water and a splash of cranberry juice. It goes with absolutely anything you want to eat – the perfect accompaniment. I love the combination of the coconut rum and the silver tequila, two things you probably wouldn’t expect make sense together but they work perfectly. Where would you drink it? My favourite place to kick back with this particular cocktail is at home. However, when I’m touring this isn’t possible so more often than not, after a concert we all enjoy Red Pocket Square cocktails in my dressing room. If I’m out in a club I certainly make sure all my mates have a Red Pocket Square too, it’s always drinks on me! Who would you share it with? The people I hold close to my heart of course, plus anywhere serving Malibu Red cocktails. Ne-Yo will be on his Red Tour until May where he will perform some of his greatest hits as well as songs from his latest album and Burning Up, the song he penned for Malibu Red. For further information about Malibu Red, please visit www. facebook.com/malibuUK and for more tour information and tickets, visit www.aeglive.co.uk
5cc at The Well & Bucket, 143 Bethnal Green Road, E2 7DG. T: 020 3664 6454.
The Cocktail Lovers - 51
ONE NIGHT IN
BRISTOL There’s a stranger in town and he’s on a mission: to soak up the drinks and convivial atmosphere in Bristol’s best bars
Pull up a seat at The Milk Thistle 52 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-sider’s Guide
Bristol. Eleven a.m. I step off this bucket of bolts train and walk towards the city centre. A pretty city. A mean city. But one where sweet liquor offers the promise of redemption to any schmuck with enough dough to fire the back-burner. The grey of Temple Meads fades into the background as I near the river. The cobbled streets quickly fall behind me as I realise I have a mighty thirst. The magnificent structure of St. Thomas’ church looms before me. A sign from heaven. There is a drinking hole directly next to the church. Bless you, Jesus. I step into the wonderful gloom of The Seven Stars, there is sawdust under my boots. The locals all look round, barely able to focus. The jukebox is playing something awful from 1982. The pasty, passive aggressive barkeep sneers at me and asks me what I’m drinking. I love it here already.
I find the door beneath the glowing bowler hat, as directed. A panel on the door slides open and I find myself staring into a pair of kindly eyes. I lean in close and I say “I hear you do the best bitter drinks in town”. The eyes regard me for a split second, then disappear as the panel slides shut, the door opens and a well-bearded chap greets me “Welcome to Hyde & Co squire”. Two serving wenches busy themselves relieving me of my coat. I feel like I’ve stepped back in time. What a place. The best kept secret. A well-groomed man addresses me at the bar. I smile and nod, though I can’t understand a single word through his thick, lusty accent. In no time, a finely crafted beverage is laid before me. I sip greedily, my mind delirious with sensory pleasure. The rumours were right, as Bristol delivers on the booze once again.
After several swift halves of the finest local draught beer and cider, something occurs to me. I’m a little hot under the collar; I need a colder drink. A fellow patron whispers some words from a long forgotten memory. BrewDog, he sighs. Purveyors of cold and delicious craft keg beer. So close. I waste no time in hauling my keister a few metres down the road. Sweet bejesus, what a selection. My thirst for cold beer is quenched immediately, as is my thirst for knowledge. The silver fox behind the bar talks for what feels like an eternity on the rudiments of beermaking. The sweet waltz of our electric banter complete, I finally wrap my hands around the frosty glass. And it’s just the ticket. After some time I look down at my gut, and realise its time for some more concise drinking. I’d heard rumours of a place where I could do just that… I ring on an unmarked door. My body is tense and my throat dry. I look at the bleak streets around me and turn to leave, disheartened. But then at the last minute the door creaks open behind me, and I step inside. Suddenly, my world is suffused with colour, and the imminent promise of well crafted liquor is now mercifully, and poignantly, apparent. I look at the gentleman holding open the door and ushering me inside. “Welcome to The Milk Thistle chief,” he says. While his words are elegant, and his smile graceful, there is an insanity behind his eyes, not unlike the jaded look of a retired colonel, or a veteran from Vietnam, forever haunted by some unknown horror. I’m shown into the bar, and I waste no time in ordering two fingers of rye, which I quickly wash down with a Margarita. The citrus bite of the ‘rita contrasts with the heavy spice of the whisky. The Viking-like bartender, who keeps referring to himself as Professor Yummerson, tells me that there is another hidden bar for those who know where to look. I could have stayed here all evening, but the promise of further mischief spurs me into the cold night.
The hour is getting late, and I only have time for one more drink. The word back home was that there lay another drinking gem, further up the way. Hausbar, is said to be the pinnacle of German form, function and engineering. After a mere thirty five minute march up a hill, I find myself on the threshold of adventure once again. I’m let in by a small man, clad entirely in velvet, while another little chap tends the bar. The bartender puts together a expertly made Manhattan whilst displaying his heavily tattooed arms. I ask him if they have any meaning, he tells me they just look cool. “Sure” I reply. The drink is strong, and very cold. I order another. The owner’s grandfather eyes me suspiciously from a frame on the far side of the room. I demand a taxi, I feel a million bucks. What a city. What a time. By Richard Tring and Michael Sharpe, The Milk Thistle BrewDog, 58 Baldwin Street, BS1 1QW. T: 0117 927 9258. www.brewdog.com Hausbar, 52 Upper Belgrave Road, BS8 2X. T: 0117 946 6081. www.hausbar.co.uk Hyde & Co, 2 The Basement, Berkeley Crescent, BS8 1JY. T: 0117 929 7007. www.hydeandcobristol.net Milk Thistle, Quay Head House, Colston Avenue, BS1 1EB. T: 0117 929 4429. www.milkthistlebristol.com The Seven Stars, 1 Thomas Lane, Redcliffe, BS1 6JG. T: 0117 927 2845. www.7stars.co.uk
The Cocktail Lovers - 53
IN-ternational
Tailor Made, 2 Agais Eirinis Sq. 10560 Athens T: (30) 213 004 9645. www.tailormade.gr/en True, the coffee is the main draw at this micro-roastery and cocktail bar but the funky set-up is reason enough to square up your shoulders and give the harder stuff a try. The oh-so arty space with its portrait of Ernst Ziller etched into the wall and the giant-sized dress patterns affirming the venue’s former use as a tailors (hence the name) is quite the hotspot. The cocktails are fine, nothing brilliant but not disappointing either, with choices running from Corpse Revivers through to the Suntory Sun.
Osterman, 10 Agias Eirinis Sq, T: (30) 210 32 43 331 A former tailor’s in the rag trade district, Osterman is a recent addition to the Athens bar scene. And from the looks of things, it’s doing rather well. Half restaurant, half bar divided by a low counter running the length of the room the bar part gets busy during the evening when head barman Yiannis Sui Generis Korovesis steps in to run the show. It’s worth the wait for one of his superior cocktails including the Jeanne Moreau (gin, Green Chartreuse, apple mint, orgeat and lime) – delicious.
The Gin Joint, 1 Lada Christou, 10561, Athens. T: (30) 210 321 8646. www.theginjoint.gr.as No prizes for guessing what the star of the show is here: yes, gin, all 70-odd bottles of the stuff. Playing on the diminutive size of the space, they’ve gone for an intimate speakeasy vibe with a DJ playing 1920s and 1930s jazz in the background and various props reinforcing the theme. There are gin classics like Martinis and White Ladies on the menu together with a number of fantastically inventive libations created by Vasilis Kyritsis who represented Greece at the Global World Class Finals in Rio de Janeiro last year. But there are contemporary concoctions made with other spirits as well. We loved the Hangover 2 with its blend of rums, fresh orange and lime juice, coconut and fruit purees, and Abbots Bitters as well as their take on the Vesper Martini comprised of Nolet’s gin, Ketel One vodka, Sauterne wine and orange bitters.
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Dos Agaves, 12 Avramiotou, 10551 Athens. T: (30) 695 558 7757. We’ve done rum and gin, but at Dos Agaves tequila is the star of the show. Maybe that was the reason it was a little quieter than the other bars we visited, who knows? Who cares? It’s still definitely worth seeking out. George Bagos and the team certainly know their stuff and their enthusiasm is infectious. Ask for their advice on all things tequila and mescal and trust them to mix you up something that shows off the spirit in its many glories.
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Oinoscent, 45-47 Voulis St. 10557 Athens. T: (30) 210 322 9374. www.oinoscent.gr There’s more to Greek wine than Retsina and Domestica. For proof, head to this boutique wine bar and shop offering a good selection of local wines by the glass and bottle. Although the age range it attracts is similar, the crowd is very different (i.e. more conservative) to those who frequent the bars mentioned here. Don’t let that put you off though, this is quite a gem.
4. 1, 3 and 4: retro chic and cool cocktails at baba au rum; 2: gin takes centre stage at the gin joint
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IN-ternational
Drink like a local:
THE ESSENTIALS
Forget Ouzo, Mastiha (pronounced mahs-teekh-hah) is the only local liquor to drink while you’re in Athens. It’s also what you should be packing to take home. Slightly sweet, delicately floral and agreeably herbaceous, it’s perfect for drinking neat or adding to cocktails. Look out for Skinos Mastiha – we loved it. www.myskinos.com Try it in this: SPRING GATHERING 50ml lavender-infused Skinos Mastiha Spirit 5ml maraschino liqueur 5ml vanilla syrup 15ml fresh lemon juice 15ml fresh grapefruit juice 2 dashes lavender bitters Punt E Mes vermouth Method: Shake over ice and fine strain into a chilled coupette glass which has been rinsed with Punt E Mes vermouth. Garnish with grapefruit peel. Recipe by Thanos Prounarous, Baba Au Rum.
Shop like a local: Head to the flea market on Avissynias Square for a cool selection of vintage glassware and curios to add to your cocktail collection. “Be prepared to barter,” warns Thanos Prounarous, “particularly if the traders can tell you’re a visitor – the prices will be much higher.” If you haven’t got the energy or front to haggle, don’t worry, the goodies tend to be pretty reasonably priced. Daily but Sunday is best. Avissinias Square, Athens.
Speak like a local: A few handy phrases Ya mas = “cheers” means to our health Kalimera = good morning Efharisto = thank you Parakaol = welcome
gianni and vasilis at the gin joint
Fly British Airways fly from London Heathrow directly to Athens International Airport. Prices start from £144 one way; £251 return. Flight time approx 3 hours. Book on www.britishairways.com
Sleep A for Athens, as before This gets our vote of approval. The location is perfect – 40 minutes or so by train from the airport to Monastiraki station, turn the corner and wham, you’re there. The 35 rooms don’t go in for unnecessary frippery – it’s all very tasteful and minimal to keep costs down. Not that we’re complaining, for prices this reasonable you wouldn’t expect to find yourself in such a top spot. Everything you need is right on the doorstep: the Acropolis, flea market, touristy shops, high street, restaurants, bars – all within walking distance. Feeling lazy? No worries, take advantage of being a guest and get an early spot for morning coffees, lunch and evening drinks on the rooftop bar (see p. 55). Single (with view) €85-€105; (without view) €65-€85. Double (with view) €90-€120; (without view) €75-€100.
Eat Tzitzikas kai Mermigas, 12-14 Mitropoleos, Syntagma. T: +30 210 324 7607. Authentic Greek food served in a simple rustic setting. Go for mezze to share (Greek olives and cheeses are a must). Don’t miss the meatballs, zingingly fresh salads and chicken cooked with Mastiha.
The Cocktail Lovers - 57
IN-vite only
SNAPSHOT:
Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months
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We’re dedicating our back page to the truly amazing event held earlier this year to celebrate the lives of Mssrs. Harry Craddock and Harry Johnson, aka The Deans of Drink. Two of the greatest drinks educators of all time, their words and recipes continue to inspire bartenders the world over. A huge thank you to Plymouth Gin, Max Warner, Anistatia Miller, Sean Harrison, Erik Lorincz and Jim Long for a wonderful day which started with vintage taxis to Gunnersbury Cemetery to give Harry Craddock the send off and head stone he deserved (pictures 1-3). After cocktails in The American Bar at The Savoy, lunch at Simpsons-in-the-Strand (5), more cocktails at the wonderfully-refurbished Café Royal (4) and on to The Dorchester for a few more (6), it ended by burying the ingredients for Craddock’s legendary White Lady cocktail in a liquid time capsule at The Savoy (7 & 8).
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