ISSUE 15
SPRING 2015
The Style Issue
Power to the cocktail hour:
Hot looks for the season Inspired by the drinks cabinet
What makes a stylish bar? (and it's not just about aesthetics‌)
+ Wise words from our
new columnist, gaz regan
ISSN 2052 0603
THESE ALL MIX COCKTAILS
ONLY THIS WILL STIR YOU
The best ingredient is always flavour GIFFARD - ANGERS - FRANCE www.giffard.com
contact@giffard.com
@Giffardliqueurs
Giffard Liqueurs Et Sirops
Tel +33 (0)2 41 18 85 00
http://giffardliqueurs.wordpress.com
IN-tro
NO OFFENCE
TO PUBS BUT THEY DON'T QUITE
C U T I T IN THE ST YLE D E PA R T M E N T
Not like cocktail bars. Park the five-star ones to the side for a moment, even the funky independents exude more glamour than your average boozer. That's even before we get to the drinks… Everything that goes into the making of a cocktail is just that bit cooler, sexier, smarter than anything you find in a pub or standard wine bar – from the bottles and glassware to the ever inventive new serves. Let's face it, cocktails just ooze style. If you need proof, just read through this issue. No stranger to standing out from the crowd himself, our new columnist gaz regan shares his thoughts on the flamboyant style lurking within most bartenders (p. 38). Mind you, it's not just about those who cut a dash behind the bar, we speak to three drinks Brand Ambassadors renowned for their sharp dress sense and ask them to open their wardrobes for us (p. 12). Brands are in on the style act too, some choosing to partner up with a luxury lifestyle company to elevate their status on the lust list (p. 20). Then there are the bars – some out-and-out luxe, others with their own distinctive heartbeat. Johnnie Pakington and Natalie Walsh head to north-east London to document the latest hotspots in the area (p. 24), while Robbie Bargh casts his net further afield and highlights his pick of the most stylish drinking spots around the world (p. 42). As for the drinks, well they've inspired this season's style shoot. We weren't kidding, we told you cocktails were smart…
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk
Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
42. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Sexying up our G&Ts, seeing the light and kissing up to our guests, just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months
Raising the bar What makes a stylish bar? Robbie Bargh puts forward the case
10. IN-the hotseat Jo Malone MBE On filling the world with fabulous scents and finding inspiration for Jo Loves, her latest outlet, behind the bar
12. IN-spire Ambassadors of style Three snappy dressing Brand Ambassadors open their closets and share their style tips (and fashion faux pas) with us
20. IN-the spotlight Two's company Making magic happen: what happens when a savvy drinks company pairs up with a stylish lifestyle brand
24. IN-the spotlight Styling it up in north-east London Natalie Walsh and Johnnie Pakington check out the bars putting the area at the top of the hip parade
30. IN-dulge Haute picks Cool pieces to add some serious chic to your home bar
32. IN-style Dressing for the cocktail hour Gin, vodka, rum, vermouth, whisky – take inspiration for your wardrobe from the drinks cabinet this spring
38. IN-focus Puttin' on the Ritz In his first column for The Cocktail Lovers magazine the legendary gaz regan highlights the flamboyance of the look-at-me bartender
40. IN-focus Legends of liquor Tom Sandham raises a glass to five key figures renowned for their drinking as well as their distinct style
46. IN-focus Dressing up vs. dressing down Jeans and T-shirt or suit and shirt? Which do you prefer to wear for your evening out?
48. IN-focus Drink, Eat, Live Claire Smith-Warner and Georgia van Tiel share their tips for spring cleaning the mind, body and spirit
50. IN-dependent spirits For bartenders, by bartenders Adam Elmegirab doffs his cap to the growing band of bartenders making their own drinks products
52. IN-dustry greats David Wondrich and Tony Conigliaro Two for the price of one: talking old school and new school cocktails and how the two have more in common than you might think
54. IN-formed Mains & Martinis Brunch at the Fifth Floor CafĂŠ, dinner at Galvin at Windows and an overnight stay at The Edgbaston
56. IN-formed Word up News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
60. IN-sider's guide Irish ayes Finding the 'craic' in Belfast with local boy Michael Patterson
62. IN-ternational Middle East magic Why we're loving the emerging cocktail scene in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem
66. IN-vite only Snap shot The best drinks events and party pics from the last three months
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Editorial assistant: Natalie Walsh Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com Photography: Addie Chinn addiechinn.com Ed Dabney edabney.com Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com Contributors: Robbie Bargh; Nelson Bernardes; Adam Elmegirab; Michael Patterson; gaz regan; Tom Sandham; Claire Smith-Warner; Georgia van Tiel For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: Power to the cocktail hour Photographer: Ondine C/Shutterstock Issue No. 15 Spring 2015 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
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Celebrating the mavericks Sod convention, sometimes you’ve just got to break the rules. Alexander McQueen did. And in doing so he turned the fashion world on its head. Celebrate his non-conformist spirit at Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert Museum until 2 August. vam.ac.uk And if you’re a bartender who laughs in the face of convention, check out G’Vine Perspectives' bartenders challenge – it’s got creative genius written all over it (p. 44).
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
jacket by alexander mcqueen from 'it's a jungle out there' a/w 1997-8. image; first view
Making awesome happen, kissing up to our guests and elevating the aroma of our drinks – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
03
02 REAPING WHAT WE SEW
IN-the know
Multi-tasking behind the bar
D.I.Y. cocktail dresses rock! One paper pattern, myriad options – dig out those sewing machines now! Vogue pattern from John Lewis. johnlewis.com
Shake, flex, repeat – the ultimate bartender’s workout. Do it with conviction using this sterling silver dumbbell shaker from Asprey. asprey.com
FOUR
GOING NUTS FOR ALMOND MILK
Top tip for transforming an ordinary gin and tonic into a thing of beauty: sprinkle on botanicals. This kit from Special Touch does the job very nicely. harveynichols.com
And who can blame us when the bottles from The Pressery look so goddamned good? The contents – raw, organic cold-pressed almonds – aren’t too shabby either. Drink neat when you’re feeling virtuous; add a splash of vodka or a tot of rum for a kick. thepressery.co.uk
Sexying up our G&Ts
05
Trading up to cuptails
What do cupcakes want to be when they grow up? Cuptails of course! Lena Rose Bakery offers 15 adult-inspired variations including Woo Woo, Kiwi & Lime Daiquiri, White Russian and Guinness & Baileys – get involved! lenarosebakery.com
06 08 Seeing the light
We’re ditching our bog standard lamps and going for a drop dead gorgeous Decanterlight. Chic hand cut decanters bathed in light? That’s what we’re talking about! leebroom.com
Getting a taste of Greece Mastiha and Ouzo, the two distinct spirits of Greece are now captured in biscuit form. Bite into the Dear Crete range available at Harvey Nichols. harveynichols.com
07
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AGEING GRACEFULLY
Too impatient to wait for your wine/whisky/cognac to age over time? Try Pinocchio Barrique. The porous oak bottle does the job of a barrel in a fraction of the time and let’s face it, looks pretty sleek too. pinocchiobarrique.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
10
12
How so? By misting the glass with one of the 18 edible fragrances available from Alice & The Magician. Take your drink to new heights by spritzing with clever combos such as Exotic Citrus Sage, Autumn Bonfire and Chocolate Birthday Cake – so simple and oh-so totally divine. aliceandthemagician.com
13
Hitting up savoury cocktails
KISSING UP TO OUR GUESTS Literally. Kiss napkins by Kelly Wearstler. kellywearstler.com
Elevating the aroma of our drinks
Tony Conigliaro has a banging selection on the new menu at Grain Store. Check this lot: Smoked Poacher Champagne, Celeriac Bellini and Chamomile Vinus Lupus – the work of a G who really knows his flavours. grainstore.com
BOTTLING UP 14.
Now that bartenders like Ryan Chetiyawardana, Charles Joly and JJ Goodman are on the case, never let it be said you can’t get a good quality bottled cocktail. Our latest favourite? The new collection from Aske Stephenson. Try the Peanut Butter & Jam Old Fashioned – it's lush. askestephenson.com
16 FOLLOWING A RUM
DIRECTION
15
ELEVEN WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE
And zoning in on the 100 recipes in Lottie Muir’s book Wild Cocktails. Muir, aka The Midnight Apothecary, takes home-grown and foraged fruits, herbs and edible flowers and gives them a starring role in her drinks. Prepare to be smitten. rylandpeters.com
8 - The Cocktail Lovers
Switching up our scent Make space in your life for the divine fragrance by French Perfumers Young Perfumer of the Year Alice Lavenat. Her clever new scent blends rhubarb, blackcurrant, pink grapefruit and pink pepper, enriched with the woody notes of cognac barrels. It’s the proverbial bomb. harveynichols.com
No. 1: Montanya Horchata Imperial Porter, the lovechild of Elevation Beer Company and Montanya Distillers – limited-edition beer aged in rum barrels. Available Stateside spring/summer. elevationbeerco.com
17
…no 2: Havana Club Unión, the first rum blended especially to enjoy whilst puffing a Cuban cigar. Why hasn’t anyone thought of this before? havana-club.com
IN-the know
EIGHTEEN
19
LIFTING OUR SPIRITS
Starting with good quality sodas and tonics. Seek out Three Cents, an artisanal collection of two tonics (Lemon, Regular); two sodas (Pink Grapefruit, Two Cents Plain) and one Ginger Beer. They’re what your glass has been waiting for. threecents.gr
20.
BRINGING ON THE GIN June 13th is World Gin Day. Resolve to try something local and new. We’re going for 58 Gin – if you’re in London, get a bottle too. 58gin.com
22
Clutching at straws Cocktails are about fun, right? So why stop at the drink? Bring on the chuckles with a comedy straw – good times guaranteed. notonthehighstreet.com
BEING NIFTY 21 IN THE SPACE DEPARTMENT Q: How many great ideas can you fit into one bottle? A: Lots. The genius Bin 8 includes a funnel, lemon squeezer, spice grater, egg masher, grater, bottle opener, egg separator and measuring cup – amazing on so many levels… amazon.com
RETHINKING THE ESPRESSO MARTINI Not the recipe but the vessel it’s served in. Mix things up by drinking Dick Bradsell’s classic out of this super-posh espresso cup – all of the taste with a little more oomph. deviehl.com
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Tuning into happy radio Have you heard Steve Schneider’s podcast yet? We urge you to get involved. Tune in for musings on the people behind the bar and all kinds of cocktail shenanigans. schneideyshow.com
MAKING AWESOME HAPPEN
23
Flying the blue flag Not only was it a key colour on the catwalk it’s shaking things up in the bar as well. We’re talking blue cocktails – get them in!
25
Another rad product from Johnnie Walker Red Label: the glass that plays music through your jawbone! Don’t ask, just try it! On the menu at Call Me Mr Lucky in London until 10th May. callmemrlucky.com The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT
JO MALONE MBE JO MALONE PRIDES HERSELF ON HER INNOVATIVE WAYS WITH FRAGRANCE. AND AFTER NEARLY 21 YEARS IN THE BUSINESS, SHE NEVER DISAPPOINTS. HER SHOP JO LOVES FEATURES FRAGRANCES BLENDED IN ‘SHOTS’, HAS A CENTRAL BAR TOP AS ITS COUNTER, TREATS ITS CUSTOMERS TO A SHOWER GEL PREPARED IN COCKTAIL SHAKERS AND THIS MONTH OPENS A BRAND NEW, INNOVATIVE COCKTAIL CANDLE STUDIO. WELCOME TO HER VERY FRAGRANT WORLD. Most people know Jo Malone the brand, who is Jo Malone the person? We’re one and the same – the brand is an extension of who I am without a doubt. When people come into the shop I want them to feel like they’re walking into my home. Which of your scents best captures your spirit? Pomelo captures the person I am more than anything I’ve ever done. It’s got staying power. It’s not overriding but you know that it’s in the room. I love the fact that 10 - The Cocktail Lovers
it’s a scent that adapts to any situation. I can wear it to a black tie dinner with diamonds or with shorts and flip-flops on the beach. How and when did fragrance become your world? I’m horribly dyslexic, if I wrote you a letter you probably wouldn’t understand it, but if I wrote that letter in a fragrance it would tell you a much better story. Sense of smell has always been a paint-brush to my life – it translates people, colour, music – everything. It’s always been my predominant sense. I can’t drive very well, swim or tell my left from right to be honest but I can create great fragrance – I didn’t choose fragrance, it chose me. Your name is synonymous with style – did you set out to create a stylish brand? I didn’t set out to be anything other than myself. My products are my genetic fingerprint. I like simplicity – some of the most stylish things to me are simple – think of Chanel packaging. For me style must have a heartbeat – it’s not just about beauty, it’s about integrity.
IN-terview
In your opinion, what are the biggest differences in our appreciation of scent and flavour now from when you started out in the industry? We’ve become much more entrepreneurial. When I first started putting lime and basil together in a scent everyone was shocked, it's now become the norm but there’s still so much more we’ve yet to uncover. When I became a retailer 21 years ago people appreciated creativity, they demand it now – people want you to walk ahead and show them the way. Customers expect experiences and storytelling these days and that pushes us to be more creative. Most of your Jo Loves fragrances call on single or two notes as the basis – do you think less is more when working with scent and flavours? What you smell is one or two notes but there can be 50 or 60, sometimes up to 100 ingredients in one fragrance. Like a soloist, the more pared back, the more simple it seems, the more polished it has to be – something like Pomelo has to be note perfect. You’ve looked to bars and bar tending as the thread running through your service style in the Jo Loves store, how did this come about? I was sitting in the bar at the Four Seasons in New York, one of my favourite places in the world. I love being there on my own and allowing my mind to run in any direction she chooses. On this particular occasion I was struggling with a fragrance called Mango – I wanted that ‘just-peeled-and-pop-it-into-your-mouth’ scent. I noticed the bartender was using shots of things to make the perfect cocktail and wondered if I could take a ‘shot’ of a note and pour over the Mango. I did. And it worked. Please describe the service style at Jo Loves and how the ‘bar’ works in the store. It’s a tapas bar for the nose. People love sitting at the bar – it’s a great place to engage, entertain and be entertained. At Jo Loves customers sit at the bar and we treat them to a four-course ‘tapas’ experience. We take their hand and refresh it with a hot cloth scented with bath cologne – it’s presented in a tagine and we lift the lid to release the aromas. This is followed by a shower gel mixed up in cocktail shakers which we paint onto the hand. We then paint on body lotion which has been prepared in a veloute gun for a lovely billowy feel. We finish with the customer’s favourite scent. It’s good to use products as entertainment and not just to buy – if you give someone their first kiss with a brand they never forget it. You’ve said that retail is theatre and ceremony, do you think the same ethos applies to bars? It applies to anyone in retail or hospitality otherwise everywhere becomes a museum. Conversation and engagement are what makes the difference, that and bringing some theatre into the space – is it that you spray your napkin with the most amazing cologne, or
bring different genres to the bar? Maybe you bring a bit of Paris to the centre of London – it’s important to be creative and do things in an unconventional way. Have you been inspired by ingredients found in spirits/cocktails for your fragrances? We have a new range of candles launching in May and they’re very much inspired by cocktails – the number one is going to be A Shot of Mojito, it’s so clean and fresh. What can bartenders learn from the perfume world and vice versa? I don’t know, let’s throw out the challenge and see! I’m open to collaborations – when you put creative people together, great things happen. I’d like to spend a week in a bar blending cocktails and see where it takes me. If you were to use your famous nose to concoct a cocktail, which ingredients would you look to and why? I’d love to use the new fragrance which I’m launching in September in a cocktail – I can’t talk about it yet, but it’s going to change everything. From my current collection it would be something with Pomelo, she’s my best friend. I’d like to create something amazing that goes with Sauvignon and Kir. You describe your nose as your paintbrush, do you believe bartenders can/do apply this philosophy to the way they approach creating cocktails? Yes, Salvatore Calabrese is a perfect example. Gary my husband and I used to go to his bar at The Lanesborough hotel every Sunday night and he would make us the best Martinis ever – it was like painting a picture in a glass for your mouth. He is a genius. Which of your fragrant candles would you advise to: a) Scent the home for a cocktail party? Mojito with A Shot of Chargrilled Lemon or with A Shot of Mango for a fresh mint, lingering aroma. b) Create an inviting environment in the bar for guests? Fresh Fig with A Shot of Lemongrass for a clean walkedacross-an-Italian-meadow freshness. c) Relax a deux with a glass of wine? Oak Moss & Galbanum or Arabian Amber for a warm, rich, sensual scent. Do you have a favourite cocktail? A Bellini in Harry’s Bar, served with tiny pizzas. What next for Jo Loves? I feel like I’m on shopkeepers journey with the Candle Studio which opens in May – I think it’s going to be a game changer. I also think the 'tapas' idea is really going to travel, plus of course we’ll be celebrating 21 years in retail in September – very exciting times ahead. Jo Loves… 42 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9NZ. T: 020 7730 8611. joloves.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
IN-spire
Nidal Ramini Head of Advocacy, Brown Forman UK How do you describe your style? I think ‘classic with a twist’ describes it pretty well! How has it evolved over the years? As I move through my fifth decade there are just a number of things that I cannot do! Logo T-shirts (unless they’re Jack Daniel’s ones!), skinny jeans, short jackets, and I think that’s how I’ve seen my style evolve. No more statements, just classically cool, ha, ha! Has the way you dress always been important to you? I was a model for a couple of years between school and pre/ during uni so I’ve always had an interest in the way I look. My father is also very well dressed, so he was a huge influence. How important is the way you look in your work and does it make you feel more efficient in your job? How you dress for work (I feel) is vitally important. When you’re representing great brands like Jack Daniel’s, Woodford Reserve, Herradura, Chambord and Finlandia you have to bring your A game. Plus, I’m not a 20-odd year old guy who can pull off the rock n’ roll look. I think as an elder statesman and Brown Forman face for the top end on-trade, I have a duty to look my best. Which item of clothing best defines you in your work life? Waistcoats and pocket squares. It doesn’t sound that unique, but I’m not bothered, I wear a waistcoat most days (I have around seven at last count). And I never wear a jacket without a pocket square – again I’ve got loads (12 I think). And I wear Sharp & Dapper shirt stays every single working day. They are incredible and I can’t believe that more people don’t wear them. And off duty? Again, I try and keep it classic, plain T-shirts, merino wool crew neck jumpers and plain trainers. Although last summer, I was in Kentucky with Brand Ambassador Tom Vernon on an Old Forester education trip and it was boiling hot. I had on bottle green chino shorts, a blue shirt with white polka dots and deck shoes (plus I was sporting a classic vacation beard) and Tom couldn’t stop laughing. Classic hipster dad! Any fashion faux pas?
Above: nidal dressed for business, right: and in christmas party clobber
Dressing to impress: A few years ago I bought a classic Don Draper grey suit. I actually bought it at T.M. Lewin but took it to a tailor who fitted it perfectly for me. Whenever I wear it people ask me if it’s bespoke. I pair it with a slim-fit white shirt from Jermyn Street, a Sharp & Dapper black tie, white pocket square and black Kurt Geiger brogues. There’s a saying from the movie Swingers, when they talk about ‘being the money’. I definitely feel ‘the money’ in that suit. Who’s style do you most admire and why? David Beckham is a stylish guy, he can dress down and still make it look perfect, that’s a real skill. David Gandy is sharp as hell, as you’d expect, and George Clooney is always on point. And Daniel Craig’s James Bond looks killer. Where are your favourite places to shop and why? This is embarrassing but I’m a sucker for Uniqlo. The clothes are affordable and stylish and as I said, I’m fairly classic in style so I’m not looking for statement pieces. Plus I bought my last three jackets at M&S. Their tailored fit stuff is awesome. As a married father of three, the days of blowing the pay check on clothes are loooong gone! If money were no object, which designer would you like to kit you out and why?
I was a teenager in the 80s! Jackets with huge shoulder pads, really baggy jeans, really long T-shirts and questionable haircuts. Yes I had hair then! Oh, and I had a thing about wearing sunglasses inside in the late 90s. I was running nightclubs in Chelsea and I wanted to have a ‘hook’, so sunglasses it was.
I used to love Tom Ford’s designs when he was at Gucci, very classic and beautifully made. jacket, marks & spencer Chris Bailey at Burberry also has some great pieces and John Lobb shoes. Someone told me about these cashmere socks that cost like, £90 a pair, so they’d have to be in!
Do you have a failsafe outfit for
What are your favourite accessories?
Meetings: I very rarely wear a suit to meetings, so dark jeans, white and sky blue shirt, Sharp & Dapper tie (blue, black, yellow, green or red), dark grey or blue jacket, and a waistcoat, of course!
My father is a watch fanatic and I’ve always loved watches. I only have a few, a Tag Heuer that I wear every day, a G-Shock for sports and a Rolex for special occasions. My father has an insane watch collection, Cartier, Patek Phillippe, Longines, Rolex, Omega – absolutely incredible.
Parties: I think it’d be a variation of the above, perhaps either a dark suit, or dark jeans and dark jacket, white shirt. No tie and no waistcoat.
The Cocktail Lovers - 13
IN-the spotlight
03 POND 3 Gillett Street, London N16 8JH. pond-dalston.com
It’s a classy party. We get all kinds of people but mainly locals in their late 20s, early 30s; Dalston, East London-types – people who want to try out new things." — Megs Demeulenaere. Pictured, Megs Demeulenaere, Robyn Skead, Robyn Wilkie, Emily Thomas, Andre Blacky Mudingo Dipanda, Lachlan Bentley, Justin Bravo
04 PETERS
GIN PALACE F. Cooke, 9 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH. petersginpalace.com
This place has got a charm to it that you just couldn’t recreate. It’s very relaxed, I think that’s why it’s so popular with parties – if you want to, you can dance on the tables – it’s a small neighbourhood bar so it’s very chilled." — Emma Peters 26 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-dulge THE ASHTRAY: Not to use for anything as messy as ash you understand, but purely to add Hollywood chic to the bar. Degradé aubergine ashtray, £570, Silia. luxdeco.com
THE DESKTOP BAR: Encapsulating old world glamour and enduring appeal this illuminated cube opens to reveal two decanters, two hi-ball glasses and two tumblers, complete with leather coasters. London Desktop Bar, £11,000, Jo Sampson for Waterford. harrods.com
THE GLASSWARE COLLECTION: All style and equal substance – impress your friends with this mouth-blown glass and copper detail glassware by Tom Dixon. Tank decanter, £95; jug, £95; highball, £55 and lowball glass, £45, all Tom Dixon. tomdixon.net
THE COCKTAIL SHAKER: THE COASTER: How to coast in style… Shagreen-covered coasters ringed in gold-toned brass, lined with suede. $250, Aerin. aerin.com
A practical and perfect shaker, featuring instructions for classic cocktails including a Manhattan, Martini and an Old-Fashioned. Tell Me How cocktail shaker, £6,950, Asprey. asprey.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 31
IN STYLE
Blithe spirits STUCK FOR WHAT TO WEAR THIS SEASON? TAKE YOUR STYLE CUES FROM THE MOOD AND DISTINCT PERSONALITIES OF YOUR FAVOURITE DRINKS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADDIE CHINN
IN-style
THE GIN
No. 3 London Dry Gin The look: Modern British with an adventurous twist
The serve: Duke’s Classic Dry Martini
Him: Grey windowpane check jacket, £450, pale green shirt, £90, red bow tie, £70, all from Hackett; dark denim tailored trousers, £98, Jigsaw; Charsfield cream linen and tan leather brogues, £229, Oliver Sweeney. Her: Naretta black suede gold-tipped shoes with gold heel, £120, Ted Baker; cream linen jacket with pinstripe lining, £189, white tie-front blouse, £89, both Thomas Farthing.
85ml No. 3 Gin; 1 tsp Extra Day Vermouth; 1 Amalfi lemon Pour the vermouth into a frozen Martini glass and coat in a circular motion. Top up the glass with ice cold No. 3 Gin. Spritz with Amalfi lemon peel before adding to the glass. No. 3 Gin, £38, no3gin.com Available from gerrys.uk.com
IN-focus
Bartenders in the second decade of the twenty-first century tend toward outrageous facial hair, attention-grabbing tattoos, various odd-ball make up choices, and eye-catching clothing that few people could pull off on the street. I’ve seen bartenders with thick stripes of black eye-liner that run from forehead to chin, and I know of one bartender, Gegam Kazarian, who works in Spain, who’s facial hair changes every single day. The hair on his head is usually pulled back and tied in a bun, but his beard, moustache and several stripes, dots or arrows composed of thoughtfully unshaved beard, are different every time you see him. “I always think he’s going to grant me three wishes,” said one wag at an event I attended in Barcelona last year.
Style, though, gets you nowhere without substance, and although the younger bartenders with whom I hang have far more skill when it comes to mixing fabulous drinks, I come armed with a knowledge of how to give great service, and that’s where I hang my hat these days. Gegam Kazarian won a G’Vine 'Best Gin Bartender in the World' competition in France not too long ago, and the title was well deserved. Gegam’s substance shone right through during every leg of the competition. Peter Dorelli’s 50+ years in the business, 18 years of which were spent as Head Bartender at the American Bar in London’s Savoy Hotel, perhaps the most prestigious job in the bar business, show us that there’s more substance than you could shake a stick at behind his “look-at-me” persona. And Salvatore 'The Maestro' Calabrese, a man who reigns supreme in bartending circles worldwide, is not only the consummate bartender but he’s also a creative genius Illustration: nick schon
I’ve known a few bartenders who chose to serve drinks for a living because they were shy, and thought that it would help them be a little more at ease with other folk, but these bartenders are few and far between. Most of the men and women who hold forth from behind the mahogany enter their profession, partially, at least, in order to be the centre of attention. To make sure that one is always centre-stage, though, takes a certain amount of style.
I’ve seen Salvatore Calabrese and Peter Dorelli, two legendary Italian bartenders who made their names in London, dress in all manner of costumes for various events. I was lucky enough to witness them dressed as Sherlock Holmes (Dorelli), and a dapper, striped-blazered, Boatertopped toff (Calabrese), when they showed up for a game of croquet a few years ago. Everyone at the happening was in costume, and every last one of them was a bartender. It was fairly tough to know which way to look when each and every one of them was wielding a croquet mallet and seemed to be screaming, “Look at me!” I was a judge at a bartender’s beard-growing competition in New York not too long ago, and there I witnessed beards and moustaches of all manner of thickness, length, shape and style, but knowing that every bartender vying for the prize would be jockeying for attention, many of them donned costumes too. Most outrageous, I think, was Philip Ward, owner of Mayahuel, a superb tequila/ mezcal joint on East Sixth Street in Manhattan. Dressed in flowing robes with a crown of faux-thorns perched on his head, he strode down the bar with what appeared to be a wooden structure, famously used by the Romans to crucify people, on his shoulder. I’ll let you decide which historical character he was attempting to represent. Women bartenders tend not to be quite as outrageous as their bartender brothers, though they certainly have their moments. A certain Sara Marshall who tends bar in New Jersey, for instance, went all out when she entered the 'Worst Bartender in Hoboken' competition not too very long ago. Sporting low-cut jeans, a white sweater tied up to show off her bare midriff (which was leaning toward Rubenesque rather than washboard-solid), and too much make up for most women, Sara frequently ignored her guests while she preened herself in a hand-held mirror. It’s hard to figure out why she didn’t win that competition, but I witnessed the whole thing, and believe me, there were worse bartenders there than Sara Marshall. But I’m as guilty as all the bartenders mentioned above of being “look-at-me”. I often wear eyeliner – just on one eye, though – and I don Indian kurtas, pretty outrageous shirts and even cowboy garb, in order to get the attention I crave. It’s a matter of style, after all.
who brought us drinks such as the Breakfast Martini – complete with a little marmalade – and the Maestro Martini – which sports a touch of balsamic vinegar for balance – proving over and over again that his substance far outweighs his style. If you sit across the bar from Phil 'Jesus' Ward at Mayahuel, you’ll be more than impressed by his knowledge of all things agave, and this, I guess, brings us to Sara Marshall, the woman who didn’t win the 'Worst Bartender in Hoboken' competition. Does she, too, have substance to back up her style? I’m sorry to tell you that I was far too interested in her style to find out about that when I judged the competition, though I’m pretty sure she knows her stuff. Until next time, then, I’ll be the guy at the end of the bar vying for everyone’s attention. With lotsa love from
The Cocktail Lovers - 39
IN-focus
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RAISING THE BAR
Robbie Bargh makes it his business to travel the world visiting the best bars, so who better to ask for their views on the most stylish ones? What makes a bar stylish? This is a very hard thing to achieve, it’s a cultural thing, it’s about creating original drinking experiences that help to create emotional connections. Owners, managers, bartenders all have a part to play. The most successful style bars are those that pass on magical drinking experiences that make each guest feel like the most important person in the room. It’s the next day, the next week or months later when a guest recollects their experience to friends, that the true foundations are laid in making a stylish, successful bar.
BY ROBBIE BARGH
42 - The Cocktail Lovers
So going around the globe here are some renowned favourites with a few of our own thrown in. First to Tel Aviv, where they live for today and party like there’s no tomorrow. Social Club is a Tel Aviv institution, a stylish classic, with warm, welcoming hospitality, fabulous drinks and great ambiance. Imperial Craft Cocktail Bar isn’t textbook classic, hidden away in a low star hotel the team marches to the beat of its own drum, creating show-stopping, innovative cocktails and proving you can find style pretty much anywhere (see p. 62).
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boho chic 70s/glam rock soundtrack. The classic home of classy drinks and one of my favourite iconic style bars is Bar Le Forum where class and style have been shaken and stirred since 1918. Here it’s the whole package: classic design, a beautiful back bar, a thoughtful and considered drinks list, the presentation, the glassware, the snacks, the mood, the knowledge and the passion of the team ooze through the entire drinks experience. In Amsterdam, home of cool local design, you can find Tales & Spirits (8). In Moscow you can check out Delicatessen (4), Chainaya and o2, which serves a stylish drinks offer from the top of the Ritz Carlton. In Vienna we are working on Wunderkammer, a smart and chic food and drink story inspired by the original Orient Express, which travelled from Paris to Vienna. Also in the city is the uber voguish Tür 7, a tiny lounge bar knocking out modern classic cocktails with a distinct twist – the space is brimming with style and substance with mein host Gerhard Kozbach-Tsai setting a new standard in the city.
Next to Dubai, a city where substance and style are hard to find, you come upon an unexpected gem of a bar, Suga. Located at the Conrad Dubai, you’ll find classic and signature cocktails prepared with attention to detail, using quality ingredients and spirits rarely found in the city, with the chic background sound of lounge jazz.
Jumping to India I have come across Soda Bottle Opener Wala – a great little bar Mumbai-style in uber cool Khan Market, Delhi. In Bangkok, I love Debby Tang’s Vesper, an achingly stylish bar and restaurant headed up by Scotsman Colin Tait. Over in New York we have Irish boys Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry setting the style standard with the fantastic, timeless Dead Rabbit (2). Another favourite is Lantern’s Keep at the Iroquois Hotel – a cool destination bar hidden away in a not so stylish part of Manhattan. Over the water, Julie Reiner has taken dashing drinking to hipster-ville Brooklyn with her gorgeous, super chic Clover Club. In spitting distance is Maison Premiére (10) where style comes in the way of awesome absinthe and oysters. Across in Washington Barmini and Minibar both dispense the best of the best.
Not a million miles away another stylish capital, Istanbul, is going through exciting times. Here there is a stylish, local, well-travelled crowd who crave original experiences. The big thing here is for creating unpretentious spaces that evolve throughout the evening, it's about being part of a scene, having a fantastic ambiance and delivering a product that is original and inspiring but at the same time authentic and local. Bars such as Lucca, Mikla and Ulus 29 all deliver.
It’s London calling and for us Scarfes Bar ticks allthestyleboxes,asdoesBarTermini(7), andthehipOriginal Sin promises to be a modern classic. Other established iconic style bars delivering exceptional experiences include Dukes Bar, The Connaught Bar, Artesian (1), and 69 Colebrook Row. On the quirky side, style hangouts include The Permit Room at Dishoom King’s Cross (6), The Shrub and Shutter in Brixton (9), Experimental Cocktail Club in Chinatown and Dandelyan on Bankside.
On to Paris – the city once starved of stylish cocktail bars is going through a renaissance. Establishments such as Sherry Butt, Little Red Door (5) and Le Professore are up there setting the drinks standard. You can also find a different sort of style bar in the form of Frame – a French Californian brasserie and bar, serving wine cocktails made with herb garnishes from the adjoining herb garden and American West Coast-inspired iced teas. A big, gorgeous Parisian favourite is Le Mary Celeste (3)– here the female strong bar team knock out an exuberant signature cocktail offer and fabulous bar snacks to a
Finally looking outside the capital we see a buoyant style bar scene with Cloud 23 in Manchester, 81ltd in Liverpool, Tigermilk doing something uniquely modish in Plymouth, stalwarts Bon Vivant and Bramble in Edinburgh, and the style classic Merchants Bar in Belfast (p. 61).
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Robbie Bargh is founder of the Gorgeous Group and has been creating brilliant stories with food and drink for more than 20 years. Find out more at gorgeousgroup.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 43
Illustration: melanie milne @ mellmadedesign.com
IN-focus
Dressing down
says Mr G
There’s nothing like slipping into a bespoke three-piece suit, shining up a good pair of shoes and adjusting the silk pocket handkerchief until it’s arranged just right. Feeling good, I’m ready to head off with Ms S to some five-star favourite for a smart cocktail or two. I admit that nine times out of ten, that’s exactly how I feel. There are, however, other times too, even if they are rather rare. The end of a particularly long day when the thought of dressing up just feels a little too much like hard work. Yes, I know, I know, I should be making the effort, but occasionally the comfortable and casual call to me. I’m not about to let my standards drop. No trainers and track suit bottoms for me (the former should be solely for running and the latter I thankfully just don’t own). It might just be that decent jeans and loafers will fit the bill. For me what’s in the glass, fabulous though I hope it will always be, is a part of a bigger picture. Venue, vibe and the company I’m keeping all contribute to the enjoyment of the cocktail I’m drinking. So do the clothes I’m wearing. And matters of a sartorial nature have always been important to me. After all, it must have been aged about 14 or so that the look and lifestyle of the cocktail started to appeal to me long before I tasted my first real mixed drink. While the heroes of most kids at my school were dreary footballers, mine were Cary Grant, perfectly attired during the cocktail hour in the film North by Northwest, and John Steed, in Savile Row excellence, opening a bottle of Champagne in the opening credits of The Avengers television programme. The funny thing is what I wear can effect what I drink. A good quality fitted cotton shirt used to suggest a Dry Martini or Manhattan, while a loose linen one called for an Americano or Daiquiri. In the same way that pairing food with drink can mean being complimentary or contrasting, I’ve discovered that clothes can do that too. Now I view the occasional spot of dressing down less about being too casual and more an experiment in clothes and drinks pairing. So if you run into me on a rare dress down day don’t judge me too harshly. I may not be sporting a pocket handkerchief, but I may well be clutching a Hanky Panky, conducting an experiment into how the demeanour of my dress effects the taste of my libation. Essential research I’m sure you’ll agree.
Dressing up says Ms S What’s so wrong with making an effort and getting dressed up? The way some people behave, you’d think it was a federal offence. Does turning up at the opening night of an opera, black-tie do or opulent bar in jeans and a raggedy T-shirt show that you’re cool? Or does it simply look like you just don’t care? I know what I think. For me, there’s a time and a place for doing super casual – sweating it out at the gym, popping to the corner shop (although I have been caught out rather spectacularly on this one so maybe not), watching television and chowing down on ice cream, yes. But cocktail o’clock? Not a chance. If I had my way we’d make like the movies and go back to a time where proper frocks and dapper dude dressing were standard. Back then, I’m thinking anywhere from 1920s through to around about the Mad Men era, if you deemed yourself sophisticated enough to drink cocktails, you sure as hell knew you had to dress for the occasion. Whether you imbibed at home or not. I’m not being totally unrealistic, it doesn’t have to be full-on fancy stuff. Clean clothes and clean fingernails are a good place to start. That said, it feels (and looks) even better when you take it a couple of steps further. Nothing flash or bonkersley expensive unless you’ve got money to burn of course. The last time I looked a pair of jeans cost considerably more than a top and something plain and simple to wear with it… Add a slick of lipstick, a pair of heels (girls stuff here but fellas, if that’s the way you roll, then who am I to judge?) and you’re good to go. And here’s the other thing: to my mind, cocktails actually taste different when you’re dressed up. Try it and see. There’s no denying that a well-made Martini is a joy to behold on any occasion but something rather magical happens when there’s a little glamour thrown into the mix. You sit differently, you take sips instead of gulps, you may even find that your little finger develops a mind of its own and suddenly, quite uncontrollably stands to attention. It’s a dressing up thing. But hey, I’m not the style police. If you feel more at ease propping up the bar in your casual clobber – then do so. But if you do fancy giving your ‘nice’ clothes an airing ‘just because’ – I’ll see you at the bar.
Mr G top 3 for style at the bar:
Ms S top 3 for style at the bar:
Shoes: A quality pair is essential to lift a relaxed look.
Black anything: It just works.
Jacket: If it’s off the peg get it tailored for a perfect fit.
Heels: As high as you dare; gents stick to the flats but make sure they're buffed to a shine.
Smart/casual: This does not mean weekend wear.
Hats: It's a Ms S thing.
The Cocktail Lovers - 47
Promotion
CELEBRATING 300 YEARS OF GREAT COGNAC WITH VERY SPECIAL NIGHTS FROM MARTELL
Since its inception in 1715 the House of Martell Cognac, the oldest of the great cognac houses, has celebrated the beauty and pleasures in life. Or the Art De Vivre as they say in France. This year The House takes its ethos one step further by hosting a series of Very Special Nights in honour of its 300th anniversary year. As well as good company, a special night calls for a few essential ingredients. It starts with a welcoming setting, takes in a convivial host and brings in good music and delicious food. Then of course there are the drinks… Whether sipped neat, enjoyed over ice or worked into classic or contemporary cocktails, there’s a Martell Cognac expression for every mood and palate. Take Martell VS for instance. This is the affable member of the family – think of it as the younger sibling who mixes well in any company. On the nose it’s bursting with fresh fruit – crisp, green grapes, delicious apples and pears, with agreeable hints of spice and almond notes coming through. Then there’s Martell Cordon Bleu. While very much closely related to Martell VS, this one is undeniably the richer, more considered and contemplative offspring. That’s down to age. And the considerable experience of Martell Cellar Master Benoît Fil. As you might expect, given its impressive history and expertise Martell has created something very special to mark its 300th year. Taking cues from the original Martell Cordon Bleu bottle of 1912, the new limited-edition cognac has been rested in barrels crafted from a 300-year old oak tree, resulting in a symphony of harmonious notes including orchard fruits, roasted almonds, rich coffee, touches of gingerbread and cinnamon.
Fancy a cocktail instead? For your own Very Special Night, treat your guests to one of following:
The Ms S VSpecial A delicious fruity number inspired by the Martell VS Perfect Serve 40ml Martell VS 10ml Triple Sec 20ml lemon juice 20ml orange sugar syrup* 1/2 egg white Dash soda water Orange zest garnish Edible gold leaf (optional) Method: Shake the Martell VS, Triple Sec, lemon juice, orange sugar syrup and egg white with ice and double strain into a chilled Martini glass. Add a dash of soda water. Spritz the orange peel over glass and discard. Sprinkle with a little edible gold leaf for special occasions. *To make orange sugar syrup, simmer 50ml water, 50ml part sugar, 50ml orange zest and 20ml freshly-squeezed orange juice.
The Mr G A de V Inspired by the art of living which Martell celebrates 40ml Martell VS 20ml freshly brewed filter coffee 20ml sugar syrup Chocolate garnish (at least 70% cocoa) Method: Shake the Martell VS, coffee and sugar syrup with ice and strain into a chilled Martini glass. Sprinkle liberally with finely grated chocolate.
To read about The Cocktail Lovers Very Special Night, see thecocktaillovers.com For more on Martell Very Special Nights, see martell.com
IN-dustry greats
TC: We’re doing a version of the Milk Punch using the same technique but with a different drink just to showcase that some of these processes still have a great validity today and you can use them in a slightly different way. They’re not confined to one drink or one type of drink, you can move the process to different places. You can’t look at the history of things and say that’s not valid. You can’t create something completely out of the blue, there’s always something that precedes it. What are the similarities and differences between the historical and the contemporary? DW: It’s about different ways of getting to a fairly similar place – the simpler, traditional way or a more sophisticated, modern way, but the modern one has the advantage of surprise. I still remember the first time I had a Gimlet, what a great drink that was. This is a way of saying, okay this is like the first time you’re having a Gimlet again. You can still evoke the Gimlet but you can use modern techniques to restore its virginity. TC: And the new experience of the drink can also take people who have never tried a Gimlet back to the original at some point. It can work in both directions and that’s important. How does this relate to our everyday drinking? TC: Is it delicious? Whether you come from a historical point of view or a modern point of view, the drink has to be delicious. DW: That’s what I see failing in a lot of modern drink mixing because they are created for spectacular effect, not for deliciousness. A drink seems exotic and exciting, then you taste it and it’s got five different amaro, it just tastes bitter and muddy. It somehow manages to make a lot of cocktails taste the same. With bartenders becoming more knowledgable what are the differences you've noticed in recent years? TC: Before they were coming and talking to you more about how you made the drink, or if it was a drink that they weren’t aware of they wanted to know where you found it, what cocktail book, where the book came from. Now they come in and say ‘I’ll have Timbuktu No 4,’ and it’s like, what the hell is that? People now tell you that you’ve made it in a way that’s wrong or it’s not how they had it somewhere else. Before it was like, ‘oh that’s interesting, you’ve done it like that’. DW: Before the huge explosion, people were just interested in the culture and the history of drinks as a little private thing. Now it’s gotten extremely geeky. It’s more out of duty than passion. It gets a little tedious. It used to be a little less train spotty and a little more sporting. The people you’re talking about, are they trade or consumers?
seems like you’re missing the point, but certainly in the US, there’s been a reaction to that, that kind of cocktail nerdiness and people are opening bars that make good cocktails but also have a little bit of fun in them. This is why I always like 69 Colebrooke Row. Tony never ran it as a white glove service place, it has impeccable cocktails but it was always a little bit loose. It struck me as the kind of place where you might have seen Marianne Faithfull in the corner snogging some other rockstar in 1968. TC: Also consumers are more knowledgeable because cocktail writing is far more prominent now than it was. And people go to places to taste new stuff but also to taste quality. They are more inquisitive. They say, ‘I’ve tried this drink but I don’t know how to make it, can you make me one?’ Then they have a bench mark for how they’d make it at home. If you were having a conversation with your younger selves when you first met in 2000, those younger selves probably wouldn’t believe that you were even having this kind of discussion. TC: Not at all. DW: Not at all. When I started writing about this stuff around 1999 my friends were asking me, ‘why are you doing this?’ And I said ‘well, I want to be able to go into any bar in the country and get a good cocktail.’ And then I’d laugh and they’d laugh because that was never going to happen. There were a few bars, one or two little hipster revival bars. Now every city in the US has at least one and sometimes as many as 50 or 100 bars making great cocktails. There are neighbourhood restaurants near my house in Brooklyn that aren’t even cocktail bars, that ten years ago would have made a Martini if you asked and they would have wine by the glass, now they have excellent cocktails lists. If you went into any one of these places in 2008 as they are now they would have been amongst the top cocktail bars in New York and in the world. The level of competency has risen very high. Are all these changes reflected in your current plans? TC: It means I can open another bar! DW: And I needed to heavily revise my book Imbibe taking into account everything that’s happened since 2007. All these things I said you couldn’t get; funky Jamaican rum, American peach brandy, Geneva, Old Tom Gin… now you can. That’s just how much things have changed. Imbibe! Updated and Revised Edition, by David Wondrich, available from amazon.co.uk Zetter Townhouse Marylebone opens Spring 2015.
DW: A bit of both. It’s also the culinary community that’s started moving into cocktails and some of them are over-trained. You get some real nerdiness. It just
The Cocktail Lovers - 53
IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD
Fifth Floor Cafe
Galvin at Windows
The Edgbaston
Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ. harveynichols.com
London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, London W1K 1BE. galvinatwindows.com
18 Highfield Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham. B15 3DU. theedgbaston.co.uk
Who: Generally a smarter, older set with a good mix of couples and groups for business lunches/dinners. What: Lipsmackingly good French food. When: Daily lunch and dinner. Wear: Not full-on posh but as near as damned it. Ms S says: This is the kind of place you end up saving for special occasions but it should be a go-to when you want your spirits lifted. The attentive service, excellent views and amazing food work like a charm every time. Hot dish: Roasted cutlet of Iberico pork, carrot and cumin purée – bursting with delicious hints of Asian spices, this is a triumph of a dish. Cool cocktail: Berenice's Hair (Buddha's fingers infused Sipsmith Gin, Cocchi Torino, Green Chartreuse, Mandarin bitters), a nice way to perk up the palate for the taste-fest ahead. Mr G says: The main event here is the obviously the outstanding menu, but that’s not to say you shouldn’t look up from your plate now and again to enjoy the stunning London views. Hot dish: You’re not going to go wrong with anything here, but the poached fillet of Norwegian halibut, shellfish and crab emulsion just oozed with perfectly balanced delicate flavours. Cool cocktail: The Charioteer (Dalmore 15yo Whisky, raspberry liqueur, brown Crème de Cacao and fresh lime juice, rested in oak barrel.
Who: A good mixed bunch, ranging from a mid-20s party crowd through to older, discerning couples. What: Art Deco inspired cocktail bar with rooms. When: Check for details. Wear: Casual/smart. Ms S says: You've got to be offering something special to get people not only to Birmingham but out to Edgbaston. They've hit the jackpot here – cool setting, great drinks, fab rooms and now, a cocktail matched 4 or 6-course menu. Hot dish: See Mr G's comments below. Cool cocktail: The Dry Martini Experiment – a delectable flight of three expertly made mini Tanqueray No. TEN Martinis, one straight, one barrel-aged, the other bottlematured – a real taste sensation and a must for any Martini-lover. Mr G says: Lovely intimate bar with some nice Art Deco touches, and the added bonus of being approximately just 45 seconds walk from our hotel bedroom. Hot dish: As a light accompaniment to the cocktails the charcuterie did the job but we’re hearing good things about the new full-on menu. Cool cocktail: Smokey Old Bastard (10 year old whisky, PX sherry and house vanilla bitters). Served with a flourish of theatrical smoke when the drink is revealed from beneath a bell jar, this was a very satisfying drink, big on rich flavour.
Who: Power shoppers taking a break from their favourite sport. What: Bottomless Sunday Brunch – small plates with Bloody Mary on arrival and unlimited Champagne and bellinis. When: Sundays 11am-3pm. Wear: Low-key but elegant. Ms S says: This is brunch Knightsbridge style – i.e. very small plates (all the better for fitting into the designerwear below) and a limited selection of dishes for the price (£65 for brunch? Who cares. Pass the Champagne). Luckily, you can have all the bubbles you want. Hot dish: No major stand outs but my favourite would have to be the chorizo arancini with romesco dip. Crisp and tangy, these go down almost too well. Cool cocktail: The Bloody Mary worked a treat. And with the addition of Peroni Nastro Azzurro the one on this menu is bloody good indeed. Mr G says: What’s not to like about a bottomless brunch menu with unlimited plates and unlimited Champagne? It isn’t about over indulgence though, sit back, take your time and mix it up with the lovely variety of small plates. Hot dish: Deep-fried oxtail lollipops covered with chocolate crumble and served with tomato sauce and edible flowers. Come on, with a description like that, you have to give it a go. Cool cocktail: Of course the Bloody Mary with Peroni is a nice idea, but then so too is a glass of Champagne that keeps getting topped up. 54 - The Cocktail Lovers
An opulent scene-setter.
IN-formed
WORD UP... NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TO’S
WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Clockwise from top: the beaufort bar at the savoy; the dead rabbit; artesian at the langham; callooh callay; trick dog
Creativity, that’s what. The past few years have seen a wondrous selection of cocktail menus appear on the scene – here are just a few of our faves…
56 - The Cocktail Lovers
POSTCARD FROM SHANGHAI by Nelson Bernardes Here in Shanghai there are a few great bars known for their whisky selections including Constellation (31 Yongjia Rd, Lu Wan Qu), a cosy bar with over 500 single malt whiskies on the menu. The group have been so successful, they’ve opened three more bars in Shanghai. Malt Fun (123 Hunan Rd, Xuhui), also offers an extensive whisky list along with a menu of well-made classic cocktails. The past year has seen many ‘old school’ Chinese bartenders open their own cocktail bars. E.P.I.C. (17 Gaoyou Lu), by Cross Yu, the winner of World Class China in 2014, is a case in point. The two-storey bar (third floor underway) boasts a very well-crafted menu. Then there’s Union Trade Co from Yao Lu (Blg 2, 64 Fenyang Lu, entrance on Fuxing Zhong Lu). Here you’ll find more than 120 cocktails, some classics and some of Yao's own creations including seasonals, a few punches and barrel-aged cocktails. Speak Low (579 Fuxing Zhong Lu), from Shingo Gokan is a speakeasy cocktail bar with three bars spread over three floors. Your journey begins by entering a cocktail equipment shop. Behind a bookshelf you'll find the first New York-style bar. Go upstairs, push a button and you'll find the second London-style bar, lastly, look out for the door saying “employees only” but if you have a membership you can get in. Starling (Zhong Plaza, 99 Taixing Lu), opened by Theo Watt and partners, focuses on rum cocktails. It’s a relaxed place for fun and great drinks and has already hosted a few master classes from international bartenders. Heading the bar team at The Nest (6th floor, 130 Beijing Dong Lu), is Carson Xie, Bacardi Legacy China Winner in 2014. Situated on the RockBund the bar offers entertainment, food and great cocktails. Another bar that has been around for a while and definitely worth visiting is El Coctel (47 Yongfu Rd, Xuhui). Acclaimed by many as the best cocktail bar in town, it's a place where the bartenders have a good eye for detail and take pride in their drinks. Light & Salt (6th floor, 133 Yuanmingyuan Lu), is part of a restaurant, library and exposition concept. The bar is a hidden gem with Rick Star, former New York bartender, leading the bar team. It's a bar for fun and entertainment with an intimate bar counter featuring a roulette wheel as a centrepiece. I run the Long Bar at The Waldorf Astoria Hotel (2 Zhongshan East 1st Rd, Huangpu), it’s an iconic venue in Shanghai with a great heritage going back to 1911 when it opened its doors as the Shanghai Club. The bar offers a wide range of cocktails from its own signatures to classics, but is also known for its whisky selection: at the moment it has more than 200 bottles kept in a private cabinet for regular guests, most of which are Single Malt Scotch. From 10pm the house band plays jazz and blues.
IN-formed
CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH
THINGS THAT MAKE US GO ‘OOH’
16th-19th May
Manhattan Cocktail Challenge Something quintessentially New York Perfect Manhattan 50ml bourbon 12.5ml sweet vermouth 12.5ml dry vermouth 2-3 dashes Angostura aromatic bitters Method: Add all ingredients to a mixing glass, add ice and stir well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a Luxardo Maraschino cherry.
14th June World Gin Day Something quintessentially British Gin Fizz 50ml gin 25ml lemon juice 12.5ml sugar syrup Soda Mint sprig to garnish Method: Shake first three ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Collins glass. Top with soda. Add an egg white to the shaker for a Silver Fizz.
15th-19th July Tales of the Cocktail Something quintessentially New Orleans Hurricane
Take a look at this Hendrick’s Labour Saving Mechanical Martini Mechanism and tell us there isn’t a place for it in your life. Whether or not you need it is irrelevant, it’s the combination of love, craft, style and beauty that’s gone into its making that’s got us positively smitten. Martini, you’ve met your match. hendricksgin.com
LAST ORDERS Jason Pennycooke has worked as an actor, dancer and choreographer for over 20 years. He was recently nominated for a Best Supporting Actor gong in the prestigious Olivier Awards for his role in Memphis The Musical. We asked him to share his imaginary last drink with us. What would your last drink be and why?
37.5ml white rum
A Grey Goose Le Fizz, because it's refreshingly delicious (if made right). It reminds of the night I first discovered the drink, after hearing I'd been nominated for Memphis I ended up having six of them, and becoming very particular about how they were made.
25ml dark rum
Who would you share it with and why?
25ml freshly squeezed orange juice
No one, it's too refreshingly delicious! If it's going to be my last drink I want to enjoy it all, it would be the first and last selfish act I ever did. As long as I can see my family in the distance to bid them farewell.
25ml freshly pressed pineapple juice 12.5ml freshly squeezed lime juice 5ml passion fruit syrup 10ml Rose’s lime cordial Method: Shake all ingredients over ice and strain into a glass filled with ice. Garnish with pineapple wedge and cherry.
58 - The Cocktail Lovers
Where would you like to enjoy it and why? On one of the Pyramids of Giza. I think Egypt is one of the most mysterious, mystical places on earth, it's steeped in thousands of years of history and its people are famed for their belief in the after life. So perhaps being there may transcend me to the after life, where I can enjoy a couple more with Anaksunamun! See Jason in Memphis The Musical. memphisthemusical.com
Michael Patterson, Bar Manager at the award-winnning Merchant Hotel opens his address book and advises on the best places to get a Guinness or a cheeky cocktail in Belfast
A
t the heart of all Irish cities you will find an array of traditional bars, Belfast is no exception. Whilst you won’t find any cocktails in them, these bars are unmissable on a Belfast night out. You’ll experience a warm welcome, the perfect pint of Guinness and a generous helping of our world-famous ‘craic’.
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The Duke of York have totally transformed Commercial Court with their many flower boxes, distinctive red benches, murals, plaques and a collection of old and new pub signage and memorabilia. It offers one of Ireland’s largest selections of whisk(e)y and if you think there is a lot of memorabilia outside, just wait until you see the
Photographs: the bar at the merchant hotel
IRISH AYES
IN-sider’s guide
interior. Every inch of the walls and ceilings are decked with everything from large whiskey mirrors to old beer mats and ashtrays. For a step back in time and a history lesson a trip to Kelly’s Cellars is a must. This is where the United Irishmen met and Henry Joy McCracen is reputed to have been arrested ,whilst on the premises. They offer an excellent pint of Guinness and live traditional music almost every night. For a more modern take, try The Hudson Bar on Gresham Street where they offer an exciting selection of craft beers on draft and by the bottle. They have cleverly annexed the disused outdoor shopping arcade behind the bar and converted it into an inviting beer garden that hosts BBQs, live music and DJs. If you're looking for a more salubrious style of drinking establishment, you won’t be disappointed. If its cocktails you’re after no trip to Belfast is complete without a visit to the multi-award winning Bar at The Merchant Hotel. Set in the former headquarters of The Ulster Bank this classic cocktail bar was once the Bank Manager’s office. The Bar’s no standing policy ensures that the table service offered is fast and efficient, creating the ultimate relaxing drinking experience. The staff in the Bar won The AA’s Spirit Award 2014 for their knowledge in promoting and selling the extensive selection of spirits on offer. You can tell that these bartenders take their craft and your drink very seriously. The cocktail menu has also won best menu at Tales of the Cocktails and at over 100 pages, it gives guests a huge choice of drinks complete with a little history and it is worth spending an afternoon digesting it! Bert’s Jazz Bar offers something a little different - oozing with style the bartenders knock up some excellent drinks from behind this pewter counter to the tune of the live jazz every night of the week. Should you choose to dine they have stage side booths and a French bistro style menu. On High Street (at number 66) there is a new boutique complex call Sixty6. Set above its sister premises, The National Grand Café, Sixty6 boasts three floors with three different concepts. The first level is its cocktail lounge where you can enjoy drinks from its well thought out menu whilst sitting by the fireplace, on the second floor you will find a Moët and Chandon Champagne lounge, and further up to the top they have their very own nightclub - complete with a smoking terrace. Another larger late night option that draws in a hip crowd is Aether and Echo. Set over three floors it offers food, cocktails, regular gigs and DJ sets. There's also a hidden gem of a speakeasy style bar somewhere on these premises if you are in the know – worth seeking out for a small but very interesting cocktail list in a unique setting.
You’ll experience a warm welcome, the perfect pint of Guinness and a generous helping of our world-famous ‘craic’
Aether & Echo, 1-3 Lower Garfield Street, BT1 1FP. aetherandecho.com Bert’s Jazz Bar, The Merchant Hotel, 16 Skipper Street, BT1 2DZ. T: 028 9026 2713. themerchanthotel.com The Duke of York, 7-11 Commercial Court, BT1 2NB. dukeofyorkbelfast.com Kelly’s Cellars, 30-32 Bank Street, BT1 1HL. T: 028 9024 6058. kellyscellars.com Sixty6, 66 High Street, BT1 2BE. T: 028 9023 3925. sixty6belfast.com The Hudson Bar, 10-12 Gresham Street, BT1 1JN. kellyscellar.com The Bar at The Merchant Hotel, 16 Skipper Street, BT1 2DZ. T: 028 9023 4888. themerchanthotel.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 61
IN-ternational
Middle East
Magic Looking for the next emerging cocktail scene? Check out Tel Aviv
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Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months 4.
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1. Sam and Aaron Taylor-Johnson at the Fifty Shades of Grey after-party, drinks sponsored by Cîroc. Aqua London. February 2015.
4. David Beckham at the Haig Club London launch. Wellington Arch, London. March 2015.
2. Nicky Phillips at the Cointreau Laetitia Casta party. Musée de la Orangerie, Paris. January 2015.
5. Sharleen Spiteri at the Fifty Shades of Grey after-party, drinks sponsored by Cîroc. Aqua London. February 2015.
3. Natalie Imbruglia, Patrick Cox and Caroline Stanbury at Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty V.I.P. Private View, drinks sponsored by Ketel One. Victoria & Albert Museum, London. March 2015.
6. Guests at The Cocktail Lovers Very Special Night in association with Martell. Quo Vadis, London. April 2015.
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9. 7. Ally Martin is crowned Bacardi Legacy UK 2015 winner. Clove Club, London. March 2015. 8. Hennessy celebrates its 250th anniversary with the Hennessy 250 Collector Blend. Paris and Cognac. February 2015. 9. Luca Corradini, Jamie Jones, Kyle Wilkinson, Tim Laferla and Jon Hughes – the final five, World Class GB Burst One. Cecil's, London. March 2015.