ISSUE 27
SPRING 2018
BALANCING ACTS New thinking for modern drinking incorporating mind, body & spirits
ISSN 2052 0603
DISCOVER THE MULTI AWARD WINNING GIN RANGE DISTILLED IN THE HEART OF THE CITY OF LONDON. For more information on our Gin range, Gin experiences, distillery tours, masterclasses and more, head over to cityoflondondistillery.com
Available at www.thewhiskyexchange.com
The finest selection of handcrafted small-batch Gins
IN-tro
WE'RE NOT HERE
TO TELL YOU
NOT TO DRINK ALCOHOL
Why would we? It’s what we do for a living. But we’re not here to lie either. A healthy relationship with alcohol means knowing when to stop – whether that's when you’re out for an evening or after one too many social occasions. Dry January is based on that premise. But 31 days of abstinence during the coldest, most miserable time of the year do not a realistic or enjoyable experience make. More attainable is the rule advised by health professionals: two to three consecutive days off the sauce every week. Which doesn’t mean staying locked in sipping water like Nelly or Nobby No Mates. These days every bar worth its salt is doing a mighty fine line in low ABV and non-alcoholic drinks thank you very much. And should you wish to drink at home, there are plenty of alcohol-free offerings on the supermarket shelves. Not all of them great, admittedly, but they’re getting there. This issue is about balance. So you’ll find features on everything from what exactly ABVs mean and insights from a worldrenowned nutritionist, through to details of the best wellness apps and lighter-style drinks. We talk to bartenders who are mixing up an array of tasty low- and no-alcohol cocktails, and our cover star, St~Germain Global Brand Ambassador Camille Ralph Vidal, strikes a few yoga poses for those aches, pains and, dare we say it, hangovers that can take hold on the days when you do go for something stronger. Like we said, it's all about balance. Please imbibe responsibly
Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com
Like
meet.thecocktaillovers
View
@thecocktaillovers
Follow
@cocktaillovers
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
IN-gredients
7. IN-the know
28. IN-the spotlight The art of drinking mindfully
Jussi Tolvi from Club Soda on paying more attention to what, when and how you drink
32. IN-the spotlight 25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Trying a new squeeze and paying lip service – just a couple of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months
12. IN-the hotseat Patrick Holford
Widely regarded as Britain's leading spokesman on nutrition, Patrick Holford BSc, DipION, FBANT, NTCRP talks booze and its effects
16. IN-spire ZERO PROOF Zero proof
Go low (or go home)
Ben Norum shuns the booze and seeks out the bars with clever, cool and low ABV options instead
36. IN-dulge Mind the app!
10 nifty apps to keep your wellness goals on track
38. IN-focus
Matt Whiley on making non-alcoholic drinks for cocktail lovers
18. IN-spire How low can you go?
How four bartenders are shaking up the low ABV drinks scene in New York, Athens, Malaysia and Milan
25. IN-the spotlight Know your ABVs
Ever wondered how ABVs are measured and what they mean? Jane Ryan has the answers
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
Strike a pose
Our cover star Camille Ralph Vidal guides us through essential yoga poses, whether you spend more time in front of or behind the bar
IN-gredients
44. IN-the mix The light touch
Low- and no-alcohol drinks on a supermarket shelf near you
50. IN-dependent spirits Mind, body, spirits
Three cool initiatives with bartender’s health and wellbeing in mind
54. IN-dustry greats Wonder woman!
Talking new approaches to drinking with Claire Warner, the Head of New Products at Seedlip
57. IN-sight No more mocktails!
Tap into Julia Momose’s spiritfree manifesto
60. IN-formed Mains and Martinis
Three restaurants with healthy food and non-alcoholic drinks on the menu
62. IN-formed Word up
News, views and interviews
66. IN-ternational Cocktails in Greece’s co-capital
Checking out the bar scene in Thessaloniki
The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Sub-editors: Sally Briggs Laura Hill Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Photography: Addie Chinn addiechinn.com Lawrence Watson lawrencewatson.com Contributors: Rebecca Milford Julia Momose Ben Norum Jane Ryan Jussi Tolvi Cover photograph: Camille Ralph Vidal, St~Germain Global Ambassador. Photographed by Lawrence Watson. Leggings and crop top, lululemon.com With thanks to: Metinee Kongsrivilai Selina Raggett Roberta Mariani For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com T: 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Ancient House Press Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 27 Spring 2018 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 7
Contributors
Lawrence Watson
Julia Momose
Grace Jones, David Bowie, Morrissey, Oasis, Pulp, Snoop Dogg, Public Enemy, Isaac Hayes, Paul Weller, Pet Shop Boys, New Order – there are few famous musical faces that haven't been captured by photographer Lawrence Watson during his impressive career. His work extends to legendary artists too, including Andy Warhol and Peter Blake. When he's not travelling the world on shoots, Lawrence is staging exclusive exhibitions, featuring the likes of behind-the-scenes shots of Noel Gallagher, taken as he wrote and recorded ‘High Flying Birds’.
Julia Momose is curating a unique beverage programme of cocktails and spiritfree pairings at Oriole, the two Michelinstarred tasting-menu restaurant from Executive Chef Noah Sandoval in Chicago. In 2016, Julia was named one of Eater’s ‘Young Guns’, a prestigious collection of ambitious and talented rising stars. That same year, Food & Wine included her in its list of Best New Mixologists, drawing national recognition to her name. Looking ahead to 2018 and beyond, Julia is partnering with Noah and Cara Sandoval to bring Chicagoans a thoughtful bar experience, through which to share a deep appreciation and understanding for craftsmanship. In this issue she puts forward the case for banning the word ‘mocktail’ (p. 57).
For this issue Lawrence photographed our cover star and yoga session, as well as the portrait of Claire Warner (p. 54).
Jussi Tolvi
The Cocktail Girl
Jussi Tolvi is a former City boy who gave up financial services and binge drinking to become a Co-founder of Club Soda, the mindful drinking movement. Nowadays, he is a mindful drinker himself.
If you’re a regular in London’s bars, no doubt you'll have met her at some point. Mind you, she won’t tell you who she is. The Cocktail Girl prides herself on being undercover so she can give an honest appraisal of the best new and tried-and-tested bars in the capital.
He tells us how we can all moderate our drinking (p. 28).
Keeping with the balance theme for this issue she visited Bar III and also undertook a detox cleanse. Not at the same time we hasten to add. Read how she got on with both on pages 65 and 67.
8 - The Cocktail Lovers
25
IN-the know
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Rapping up, keeping chill and rolling with it, just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next three months…
N1 o
We can all learn a thing or two from Frida Kahlo A woman with a moustache and monobrow? Yeah, and? She didn’t give a damn about what people thought. In fact, she made her quirks her trademarks, as you can see in her many self-portraits. Get up close to them in ‘Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up’ where you’ll get an insight into her world and many colourful outfits. Take time to raise a toast to her Mexican spirit with a tot of tequila. Only one of the very best, mind. Our tip: Gran Patrón Platinum Tequila – the lady herself would definitely approve. ‘Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up’ runs at Victoria and Albert Museum from 16th June to 4th November. Sponsored by Grosvenor Britain & Ireland. vam.ac.uk
frida kahlo in blue satin blouse, 1939, photograph by nickolas muray © nickolas muray photo archives
Being more Frida
The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN-the know
3
2
Cocking our pinkies
DRESSING THE PART
Didn’t get an invite? No matter, you can still toast Meghan and Harry’s nuptials in five-star fashion by ordering The Royal Flight – a collection of cocktails created for royal weddings past and present by the regal team at The Savoy. fairmont.com/savoy
There are two ways to go with cocktail dresses this season: pastel or bright. Ladies, what say you to this one? Barwick crepe dress by Roland Mouret, available from harveynichols.com
four
N7 o
…and guys, it’s time to man up to pink. If you’re not quite ready for a suit, try a shirt, from thomaspink.com natch.
05
Rethinking bottles
So long glass and plastic, we’re seeking out the revolutionary eco-friendly options. Like the cool paper bottles made from 100% compostable pulp at paperwaterbottle.com
No. six
…and Life Water cans, the 100% recyclable and BPA-free tinnies made from 70% recycled aluminium. Filled with locally sourced water from natural springs, even talking about them makes us feel virtuous. zeroplasticsolution.co.uk
8. Drinking pink Everything’s coming up rosé. Including glassware. Add more finesse to your bubbles with these. Champagne Gold Coupes, aprilandthebear.com
10 - The Cocktail Lovers
9
Getting serious about tea
What better for a tea lover than an ‘altar’ that comes with streamlined pots and cups, as well as a beautiful lotus flower grill for discarding the leaves? Not much wethinks… Lotus Tea Set, designed by Chang Choi and Ju Young Kim.
Rapping up With Jay-Z and his new £1,650 Blanc de Blancs ‘Ace of Spades’ magnum in a limitededition run of 1,000 (available exclusively at selfridges.com) and A$AP Ferg doing a turn for hennessy.com, rhythm and (luxury) booze is definitely where it’s at.
IN-the know
10
11
…and coffee. S’long plungers, drips are the way to go. Add some glitz to your caffeine fix with a gold Coffee Drip Stand from beaumonde.co.uk
12
Shining a light
We can’t think of a better use for old bottles than refashioning them into funky lighting, can you? Bottle lights, booxbe.com
…but when time doesn’t allow, grab a can of Sandows Cold Brew Coffee for classy caffeine on the go. sandows.com
13. Enjoying wine on tap
Think of the simplicity of a wine box, dial it up to mega and you’ve got Plum, the portable wine dispenser. Not only does it look good, it keeps two bottles of wine chilled and fresh for you to enjoy one glass at a time for up to 90 days. Perfect! plum.wine
15
14
Cooling off How’s this for a cool piece of kit to bring out at summer parties? Octopus ice bucket by theluxecompany.co.uk
Doing like aesthete William Morris and having nothing in our homes that we do not believe to be beautiful. Which is the perfect excuse for filling our fridge with streamlined bottles. Like these. museandmetta.com
N 16 o
…and these. The exquisite Shaping Bottle Collection by volta.pt
SEVENTEEN Luxxing up vodka Caviar-infused vodka anyone? How about a hint of truffle? JCB do both. Made from a base of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, they're definitely aimed at the luxe set. jcbcollection.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
IN-the know
19
18 Being travel ready
…and when only the real thing will do, there’s this. Leather Drinks Case theluxecompany.co.uk
Don’t go anywhere without your cocktail essentials. In toiletry form. Pack your Happy Hour Wash Bag from boozibodycare.com
Clearing space for one more gin The stats: 45 botanicals, two years in the making and 180 trial distillations; the result: Mr Kamm’s Gin. If it’s anywhere near as good as Kamm & Sons British Apertif, we want in! mrkammsgin.com
TWENTY Two
21
photograph: claire menery
20
More juniper news: Portobello Road Gin is expanding. The new two-floor restaurant, bar and event space in London’s Exmouth Market boasts a working still and the signature Gin and Tonic Plus. Check it out. tonica.london
23
Paying lip service
At the lip bar. Try the Cosmo, Whisky Sour or Baby Bellini – cocktail-tastic shades guaranteed to make you smile. thelipbar.com
TWENTY FOUR
Rolling with it Trollies these days are less tea lady more cocktail queen. Fancy an arty carty? Job done. poimiakukkia.com
Trying out a new squeeze Functional and rather fan-blooming-tastic to look at, what’s not to like about the Ubikubi Cactus Juicer? ubikubi.ro
25 25 Keeping chill Can we make a plea for the CupCooler to get funding? Who doesn’t want a clever piece of kit that keeps liquids cold to the last drop? Go to kickstarter.com for more details.
12 - The Cocktail Lovers
Promotion
A QUESTION OF TASTE Peroni Nastro Azzurro takes pride in using authentic Italian ingredients in its locally brewed beers. Including the citrus that gives it its unique taste… Not all citrus fruits are created equal. A visit to Italy will confirm that. Danish author and poet Hans Christian Andersen captured it perfectly when he took pen to paper and, referring to the orange and lemon groves he encountered on his visit to Italy in 1833, exclaimed to a friend, “How unfairly we are treated in the north, here, here is paradise.” He was right of course. Not just about the scenery but the fruit as well. Forget the super-shiny, identikit stuff that you find in the supermarket – in this part of the world, fruit of the citric variety comes in all shapes, textures and sizes and has a character of its own. Take lemons for instance. Kissed by the sun, cooled by the sea breeze and hugged by the cliffside terraces of the Amalfi coastline, they take on all manner of guises, ranging from the lumpy, comedy-sized cedro, sometimes as large as footballs and best used for marmalade or pulp, through to the long, pointy, intensely fragranced Sfusato Amalfitano, lower in acidity and prized for the mellow taste they add to drinks.
orange, they pack a powerful punch and lend a distinctly bittersweet taste to aperitivo style cocktails. With such a bumper crop of goodies on its doorstep, is it any wonder that Peroni Nastro Azzurro seeks out the prized local citrus to add that clean, refreshing finish to its crisp-tasting beers? A hint of grapefruit gives an agreeable bite to Peroni Nastro Azzurro while recently launched Peroni Ambra looks to the zing from the chinotto to create a modernminded, sharp-tasting beer for the Aperitivo Hour. Garnish with a twist of orange to further enhance the citrus notes. Beautifully balanced beers made from authentic Italian ingredients – Peroni, for a true taste of Italy. Please drink Peroni beers responsibly
Then there are the limone found on the Sorrento coastline… not for nothing are they sought out by the best bars in the world to add that final flourish to the most exquisite Martinis. Again, a winning mix of sun, mountains and sea breeze combine to produce fruit of an infinitely superior kind. The skins are rich with oil and the fruit bursting with juice, much like the bumper crop of sweet and sour oranges, grapefruit, mandarins and clementines that Italy is rightly famed for. There are other treasures too like the rare chinotto harvested in Liguria, in the north west. Reminiscent of a tiny
The Cocktail Lovers - 13 PANTONE 403C
PERONI PRIMO BLUE
PANTONE 403C
IN-the hotseat
IN THE HOTSEAT
PATRICK HOLFORD Who better than the founder of the Institute of Optimum Nutrition and honorary fellow of the British Association for Applied Nutrition and Nutritional Therapy to give us the facts on alcohol?
14 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-the hotseat
As one of the world’s leading authorities on new approaches to health and nutrition, have you noticed that attitudes towards drinking alcohol have changed over the past few years? If so, how? There’s a proportion of teenagers who drink to oblivion – more so than was the case say 20 years ago. The middle classes are also drinking more. Many people, and many more women, get into half a bottle or more of wine a night. It’s certainly driving obesity, especially fat around the middle. On the other side, there’s a growing awareness, especially among adults over 30, of the merits of sulphite-free, organic wine and alcohol. I think this is driven by people realising that some forms of alcohol make them feel worse than others, and hunting for a cause. Are there any countries/territories where attitudes to drinking alcohol have changed more significantly than others? In southern Mediterranean countries, where drinking wine has always been part of the culture, often the quantity is more controlled. Wine is being used less as a ‘numbing’ agent – an antidote to the stress of modern living. The trend is for the more urbanised, industrialised communities to use alcohol more as a drug to deal with stress and ‘numb’. High stress hormones are probably worse for you than alcohol. What about people drinking less? Not really. What I have noticed is more people going ‘dry’ for a week or doing a detox. What do you attribute this to? It may be more awareness of the merit of doing so or more ‘need’ – people realising their health is suffering. What are the first signs that we may be over indulging? I’d say that the first noticeable ‘symptom’ of too much alcohol generally is increasing fatigue and not being able to wake up refreshed. It’s too easy to get into a cycle of coffee to wake up and alcohol to relax. Based on the adage that a little bit of what you fancy does you good, how much (or how little) alcohol can the average man or woman drink before a little bit of what you fancy does you harm? As a nutritionist, I’d tend to be anti-alcohol because it’s harmful for the gut and kills off gut bacteria. However many studies have also shown that light drinkers have a lower risk of both heart disease and Alzheimer’s than abstainers or heavy drinkers.
What’s the accepted amount? Drinkaware advise not to drink more than 14 units a week on a regular basis. That equates to six pints of 4% ABV beer or six glasses of 13% ABV wine or 14 glasses of single. measures (25ml) of 40% ABV spirits. They also recommend that if you regularly drink this amount in a week that it’s best to spread your drinking over three or more days. What happens in the body if we exceed this? The greatest risk relates to women and breast cancer in particular, especially in those who lack sufficient intake of B vitamins (folates from greens). However, the link between alcohol and oesophageal, stomach and colorectal cancer is strong too. Do all alcoholic drinks have the same effect in our system? No. I believe many people react to yeast and feel quite different the next day after beer or wine – which are high in yeast – compared with Champagne (or Champagne method sparkling wines) or a neat spirit.
In southern Mediterranean countries, where drinking wine has always been part of the culture, often the quantity is more controlled How does the liver come in to play in the drinking process? Our bodies are permanently under assault from toxins, There are those outside our bodies that come from our environment, there are those that our own bodies make, and, of course, there are those toxins that we put into our bodies ourselves. The liver is the clearing house for all of these toxins and detoxifies substances by preparing them to be eliminated from your body in a process called conjugation. Alcohol interferes with proper liver function as the liver can only handle a certain amount of it at any given time and if you drink too quickly, or too much, your liver cells struggle to process it, producing a toxic enzyme called acetaldehyde which can damage liver cells.
The Cocktail Lovers - 15
IN-the hotseat
Is there anything that we can do to protect and assist it? As well as eating the right foods (see below), there are seven top detoxifiers for giving your liver's detox capacity an upgrade, so look for a supplement that contains N-acetyl cysteine, milk thistle extract, cruciferous vegetable compounds, msm, ellagic acid, dandelion extract and alpha lipoic acid.
as milk thistle, turmeric and fish oils. They’re the key players in detoxifying your body. If you boost your intake, from both foods including pomegranate, berries, plums, oranges, kiwi fruit, pink grapefruit, peppers, baby spinach, tenderstem broccoli, beetroot and avocado, as well as supplements, you’ll definitely notice the difference.
Speaking of protection, what are the most effective ways to deal with a hangover?
What’s better for us from a health perspective, a cocktail or a non-alcoholic sugary drink and why?
Firstly, not drinking on an empty stomach. Food will slow down the rate at which you absorb any alcohol and protect your gut lining from irritation. This could be something as simple as some peanuts with your pint or olives with your glass of wine. Even better is to eat a meal that combines protein and slow-releasing carbohydrate – for example, fish and rice or meat and potatoes with vegetables – ideally ‘cruciferous’ veg such as broccoli and kale which help liver detoxification. But what really protects the gut (and is destroyed by alcohol) is the amino acid glutamine, which directly nourishes and helps protect gut mucosal cells, so have a teaspoon (5 grams) of glutamine powder in a glass of water before you go to sleep. Secondly, during the liver’s detoxification of alcohol a toxin called acetaldehyde is created, which is what gives you many of the classic hangover symptoms. One measurable effect of the natural compound curcumin – found in highly concentrated, bioavailable for in Theracumin – is its ability to detoxify alcohol. I recommend Theracumin and drinking water. Lastly, take two grams of vitamin C with zinc. I take two tablets before bed with some water, since keeping hydrated is itself a step in the right direction. Are detoxes a good idea if we’ve overindulged? If so, what do you advise? Yes. 1. Drink eight glasses of water a day. After all, your body is 66% water and this alone will help you to detoxify. 2. Eat superfoods to spring-clean your system including fresh apricots, cantaloupe, citrus fruits, kiwi, papayas, peaches, mangoes, melons, red grapes and all types of berries. Vegetables that are especially good for detoxification include artichokes, peppers, beets, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, cucumber, kale, pumpkin, spinach, sweet potato, tomato, watercress, and bean and seed sprouts. 3. Load up on anti-aging antioxidants like glutathione, L-glutamine, N-acetyl cysteine and S-adenosyl as well
16 - The Cocktail Lovers
The second most common cause of liver failure, after excess alcohol, is excess sugar. The liver has to turn sugar into fat. I would say that a low sugar alcoholic drink, such as a dry white wine or a whisky, is better for you than a sugary drink. The tonic might be worse for you than the gin! The majority of people reading this magazine will probably consume alcohol at some point, what’s the one single thing that we can all do right now to be more responsible drinkers? In moderation, there’s nothing wrong with drinking small amounts of alcohol. If, however, it would be hard to quit for even a week, you’re becoming dependent and that’s not as good thing. And what about longer term? Have three consecutive days off alcohol a week to give your liver a break and once in a while try my 9 Day Liver Detox (details below). What’s your tipple of choice? I’m a fan of Margaritas – not too sweet with fresh lime juice and high in vitamin C. I also drink whisky in moderation, on the rocks – no added sugar. I’m very selective about the wine I drink – almost always organic or from old vineyards that use no chemicals or sulphites. I also like Champagne and drink an organic Champagne made by Serge Faust. You notice the difference the next day. Patrick Holford BSc, DipION, FBANT, NTCRP has written over 30 health books, selling over a million copies worldwide. Titles include 500 Top Health and Nutrition Questions Answered, Natural Energey Highs, Optimum Nutrition Made Easy, Say No To Cancer and Six Weeks to Superhealth. Find out more about his book The Holford 9-Day Liver Detox: The Definitive Detox Diet that Delivers Results and more at patrickholford.com
THE FIRST NO & LO COCKTAIL BAR
15 CITIES | 2x NIGHTS | JULY 2018
IN-spire
ZERO PROOF
NO ALCOHOL? NO PROBLEM. MATT WHILEY’S DRINKS ALWAYS PACK A FLAVOURSOME PUNCH How do you go about putting enough flavour in a nonalcoholic beverage so that it’s not just another insipid soft drink? That’s the question Matt Whiley asks when he and his team at Scout in London set about devising their complex and creative booze-free concoctions. Here he talks about what it takes to get the balance just right
IN-spire
On when the fascination with creating a nonalcoholic product kicked in… I became interested in the process of creating a nonalcoholic drink after reading about the placebo effect; it got me thinking, how can I create a drink that makes someone still think they’re drinking booze? It’s an interesting one and takes a lot of fine tuning. For instance, when we made our non-alcoholic gin, we had to put 10 times more juniper in the water than we do to make juniper into spirit to get the desired effect. On the making of their first non-alcoholic product… We produced our first non-alcoholic Campari and soda in 2013. We started by distilling Campari because we wanted the flavour, then we were left with the by-product to which we added soda water. It worked really well and when we opened Peg + Patriot, a bar in London, we had it on the menu. We then increased the offering with a non-alcoholic gin. On trial and error… Creating the gin took a while – probably two months of trial and error. First we tried making it with the same amount of botanicals that we use in the recipe of our Dogs Nose Gin and that didn’t work. We also tried our London Dry recipe which didn’t work either – it lost flavour very quickly. The thing is, the botanicals react totally differently in ethanol to what they do in water – all the woody notes from botanicals like angelica and liquorice become much more prominent. So we took them out and become uber focused on juniper, then balanced it out with strong coriander seeds as well as citrus peels. On why dilution is key… It’s harder to get a really complex non-alcoholic drink which is why more people aren’t doing it. It’s similar to why it’s harder to get a good long drink – because as soon as you start diluting something you lose flavour, so the question becomes: how do I add flavour without losing balance? We think of it as using the dilution as an ingredient – all dilution is a flavour. On the beauty of the rotavap… The purpose of the rotavap is to separate the solvent. So in the case of booze, the two solvents are water and ethanol. We literally separate them out so we’re left with the water, which has all the flavour – the sugar and in the case of vermouth say, all the fallout from the grapes. On the details that make the difference… In our Meadowsweet cocktail we add a drop of woody
tincture to give it an extra bit of slick oiliness. In the Kombu we have on our current menu (see below), we’ve distilled chalk for the dryness it brings to the drink. The other plus is that it stimulates the palate in the same way as a Martini and has the effect of drinking booze without the booze. Another thing about distilling something like our gin in the rotovap is that you get a lot of natural essential oils from the botanicals, so it has this mouthfeel of a spirit. On who he makes them for… For people like us, people who drink alcohol but don’t always want to drink it. You still want something that feels like it’s been given the same amount of care and attention as a Manhattan or something else from our menu. Why should the person who’s not drinking not get the same experience? On the take-up of non-alcoholic drinks then and now… Back in 2013 our non-alcoholic drinks sold a lot slower than they do now. There wasn’t such a demand for them and the few we did sell were mainly to diners who wanted a drink with their meal. That’s totally changed – now there’s a real movement of people coming in wanting non-alcoholic options throughout the evening. On the restructuring of the menu… When we opened Scout we didn’t list our non-alcoholic cocktails, mainly because our menu is on one side of paper and it was hard getting everything to fit on it. Now, because we have so many people asking for non-alcoholic options, we’ve taken the wines off the menu (they’re still available but people can ask for them) and replaced them with a non-alcoholic section instead. There’s much more of a demand for it. On what you’ll find on the list… We have three different drinks now: one is a hydrosol or a distillate with meadowsweet – it’s got this vanilla-y flavour; we redistill Cocchi and red wine together then separate the spirit away from the vermouth. Another is Kombu (mentioned above) – which is seaweed infused into water but the water has been distilled with chalk first. Seaweed adds saltiness and there’s roasted, smoked barley, which we infuse into water then make into a syrup – that’s probably the simplest of our non-alcoholic drinks to drink as it’s a borderline soda. The last one is Hazelnut which we make with a house apple bitters and burnt oats sugar. Try the drinks at scout.bar
The Cocktail Lovers - 19
IN-spire
HOW L O W CAN YOU GO? How four bartenders from Italy, America, Malaysia and Greece are championing the growing thirst for low ABV and non-alcoholic drinks
Diego Ferrari Rotonda Bistro, Milan
How many low ABV or non-alcoholic cocktails do you have on your current menu? The new cocktail menu includes 22 low ABV and nonalcoholic cocktails. Please describe them. Our customers can find eight categories: Americano & Co. including Milano-Torino, Sbagliato and two twists on classics; Spritz & Co. with four different twists; Mule & Co. with two recipes; Cold Brûleè Cocktail; Mojitos; Mary & Co. with three different recipes; Classic Gin & Tonic and Mocktails. Describe your approach to creating non-alcoholic/ low ABV drinks? When we decide to create new cocktails we first try to understand what our customers would like to drink. We analyse the trends of the moment, the average age and style of our guests, then we connect all this information and decide on the new theme. But this is only the beginning because after we’ve mixed the drinks, we have to work out how to serve them. I draw them one by one and, as a team, we chose the garnish, glass and presentation. Creating low ABV cocktails is almost the same process. We just stick to one rule – every cocktail must be less than 21% ABV. We spend the same time on our nonalcoholic cocktails as on all our cocktails – approaching them with study, research and dedication. What’s the main reason for having them on your menu – is it because of personal preference, in keeping with the ethos of your bar or driven by customer demand? In 2014 the municipality of Milan created the first children’s museum in town, inside the oldest monument in the centre of Milan, called MUBA.
IN-spire
This is where our bistro and bar, the Rotonda Bistro, is situated and the museum imposed the rule that all the bottles we had behind the bar were less than 21% ABV. This led us to research all the brands available in the Italian market that are less than 21% ABV, and resulted in us creating perfect cocktails to be served during the Aperitivo. From 2014 until the end of 2017 we stuck to this rule, but from January 2018 we had a big upgrade and now we can use spirits – like a normal cocktail bar – but only for mixing cocktails with a maximum of 21% ABV.
They’re all my favourites! In fact, we decided to collect almost 40 recipes and publish a book that will be released in April called Cocktail Low Alcohol – The New Frontier of Mixology, edited by Bibliotheca Culinaria. But if I have to pick one I’ll say l’Aperitivo. It was created for the 2017 summer menu and inspired by the Marendry Amarena Fabbri. It gave us a great opportunity to change the perception of the classic bitter and create a perfect aperitivo. At 16% ABV, it’s one of the most popular aperitifs in our bar.
Approximately what percentage of your guests order low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktails? And in your opinion, do they specifically seek them out or is their decision based on the description of the drink rather than the fact that it’s lower volume? Our customers drink only low ABV cocktails because we don’t serve cocktails above 21% ABV. Sometimes customers ask us for Martinis or other high ABV cocktails but we explain our rule and suggest they try one of our signatures. Has this changed over the years? In my opinion in the last five years the culture of cocktail drinking has changed. People are more interested in thinking about how they drink and cocktail culture has grown a lot. A lot of bartenders are finally teaching consumers about a good drinking culture and in this era where wellness has become an important part of life, many people are more conscious about the cocktails they’re drinking. Can you share your favourite low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktail recipe with us, describing its flavour profile and your inspiration?
L’Aperitivo 40ml Marendry Fabbri 40ml Martini Riserva Speciale Rubino Lager beer foam Build all ingredients in an Old Fashioned glass. Top with lager foam and garnish with edible dehydrated flowers.
Naren Young Dante, New York How many low ABV or non-alcoholic cocktails do you have on your current menu?
Photo: Steve Freihon
Non-alcoholic drinks are something we take very seriously and we try to have as many options as possible, including sodas, beers, a few cocktails and a house lemonade which we make daily from a citrus stock of spent ingredients. We also have a strong selection of low ABV drinks. You’re starting to see aperitivo bars or bars with a small section of those style of drinks pop up everywhere, it’s understandable – you can’t ignore that side of the business. Please describe them. They’re all very simple in style, beautifully presented and delicious to drink. We take something humble like Campari and orange and elevate it – making that drink
The Cocktail Lovers - 21
IN-spire
the best example of it our client has ever had. Our ethos is simple not intimidating. The non-alcoholic section takes in a Salted Rosemary Paloma with fluffy pink grapefruit juice, rosemary and Perrier water, a Virgin Mary with cold-pressed vegetable juices, fennel salt and horseradish, and a Passionfruit Mule with passionfruit puree, lime, verjus, salt and ginger beer. On the low ABV side we have our Vermouth Service on tap, The Highball, Salted Dog and our bestseller by far, the Garibaldi. Describe your approach to creating non-alcoholic/low ABV drinks? The look and taste takes as much, if not more, effort than a regular drink. Why shouldn’t non-alcoholic drinks look beautiful? I think about everything including the glassware, garnish and the overall drink itself. The way it’s listed on the menu makes a difference too, I spend time making sure all the drinks sound as delicious as they taste. For low ABV cocktails, I start by thinking about the alcohol. Dry sherry, vermouth, Aperol – they’re all quite delicate flavours so I have to consider what can stand up to them. I also think about how the flavours work with food. Most people in New York drink with their meal so although we don’t match drinks to food, I tend to use ingredients that have a culinary slant towards those that might turn up in our food dishes – like salt, shrubs, chillies, spices and herbs. We use light, delicate flavours to complement the food, rather than drinks that are too boozy, cloying, sweet or rich.
Has this changed over the years? Definitely. People are much more concerned with what they put in their bodies – they care about sustainability, seasonality, provenance, and it’s the same with drinks. They want less sugar, less booze, fresh juices and vegetables, they want to temper their drinking a bit more and make better choices. I don’t see it as a trend, more of a movement. It’s not healthy drinking but it’s definitely healthier. Can you share your favourite low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktail recipe with us, describing its flavour profile and your inspiration? The Garibaldi, it’s the most popular drink on our menu. The inspiration for it goes back to where I grew up in Sydney. After a surf, we'd go to this Italian restaurant where they served Campari and fresh oranges squeezed to order. It doesn’t sound revolutionary now, but 20 years ago it was a real ‘wow’ moment to have freshly squeezed juice. Anyway, I put it on the back burner and when we opened Dante, we wanted a drink that would put us on the map and we chose the Garibaldi as we later found out it was called. It has a strong name, suits our concept and is delicious. To give it its distinct fluffy texture we put it through a high-speed Breville juicer and the result is a really creamy, cloud-like texture. We put it on a white plate to elevate the experience. It’s the perfect serve.
What’s the main reason for having them on your menu? We’re an all-day, full-service, neighbourhood restaurant and our guests range from mums with young children in the day to office workers at lunch and more of a hipster crowd at night – it’s important that our drinks cater to all of them. That’s why our concept has always been low ABV, they form the basis of our bar programme. Approximately what percentage of your guests order low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktails? In the day, I’d say up to 30%. I’m not sure if people are consciously seeking low ABV drinks out, most of us seem to be moving that way without even noticing it. We can make boozy drinks but the low-alcohol ones we’ve devised were conceived in a specific way and our guests are pleasantly surprised.
22 - The Cocktail Lovers
Garibaldi aka Campari and 'fluffy' Orange 45ml Campari Immediately squeezed orange juice Add two ice cubes to an 8oz slim Highball glass. Add the Campari and a little of the OJ. Stir well to combine. Add one more ice cube and fill the remainder of the glass with OJ. Serve on a white plate and garnish with an orange wedge resting on the rim.
IN-spire
James Estes Huckleberry Hospitality Group, Malaysia Approximately what percentage of your guests order low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktails? Here in Malaysia, I don’t feel that our guests generally go out to seek new low ABV/non-alcoholic options, but they do appreciate them when they’re offered, particularly when they’re offered in a way that shows there was some time and thought put into the delivery. That said, Kuala Lumpur is a city where driving is a necessity, so there are times that guests will opt for the low ABV/non-alcoholic offerings for this reason alone. Has this changed over the years?
How many low ABV or non-alcoholic cocktails do you have on your current menu? Collectively within the Huckleberry Hospitality Group’s four outlets, we have 12 non-alcoholic cocktails. Please describe them. Some are light and effervescent: poached apple cordial, yellow bell pepper juice, topped with soda. Some are tart and herbaceous: watermelon juice, Thai basil syrup, apple cider vinegar, topped with sparkling lemonade. And some are blended and smooth: chopped mango, coconut water, yogurt, coriander, pineapple and jaggery infusion.
I believe that globally there’s been a huge rise in the demand for low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktails. I’d put this down to people generally being more health conscious and aware of what they’re putting into their body. Can you share your favourite low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktail recipe with us? The cocktail I’ve created here is called Mat Salleh, which is the Malay word for ‘white man’. It’s a simple twist on the Americano, which is also one of my favourite low ABV drinks. The recipe and preparation are fairly simple and I absolutely LOVE calamansi. Kamil Foltan gave me my first taste of calamansi soda. It changed my life, thank you Kamil!
Describe your approach to creating non-alcoholic/low ABV drinks? It’s a very similar approach. When creating non-alcoholic cocktails, I tend to first address a certain flavour as the base of the drink, with the remaining ingredients chosen to help complement and enhance that base. And as always, I use the freshest homemade ingredients and juices. What’s the main reason for having them on your menu? I believe it’s important to a) have variety on a menu and b) have a beverage offering that caters to all drinkers. During my time in the Middle East, I really came to appreciate ‘mocktails’, as it’s a place where guests are definitely looking for creativity, flavour and appeal in non-alcoholic cocktails. One of my outlets, Birch, is a day/night operation, and our morning guests aren’t necessarily looking for alcoholic drinks. You’ll also get drinkers in the evening who might not have alcohol for a variety of reasons (personal, religion, health, etc), so again, it’s very important to have low ABV and nonalcoholic options to cater for everyone.
Mat Salleh 20ml Cynar 35ml Gonzalez Byass Solera 1847 Sherry Top with a homemade calamansi soda. Stir ingredients over ice and top with the soda.
The Cocktail Lovers - 23
IN-spire
Manolis Lykiardopoulos Odori Vermuteria di Atene, Athens Approximately what percentage of your guests order low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktails? About 30% of our guests order low ABV cocktails and four of our ten bestselling cocktails are low ABV. Our customers want light drinks either to combine with some bar food or because they don’t want to consume too much alcohol. Has this changed over the years?
How many low ABV or non-alcoholic cocktails do you have on your current menu? In our new menu ‘We will always have Athens’, the districts of Athens are the inspiration that’s driven us to create 15 signature cocktails. Five of them are low ABV cocktails and two you can order without alcohol. Please describe them. We are affected by the various activities of Athens and the daily habits, so we created The Earthy Elements – a low ABV cocktail inspired by the street markets – with rosso vermouth, seasonal beetroot cordial, rice vinegar and a splash of soda water. We also created the Ramble & Run Fizz (see right). Another low ABV cocktail is dedicated to the wellhidden arcades with lively coffee shops. It contains cold brew coffee with cardamom, rosso vermouth, Suze and carob syrup. Finally, we’ve got a twisted Milano-Torino with rhubarb and blood orange, Assyrtiko wine, Martini Riserva Speciale Bitter, capers and Greek herbs cordial, and bubbles – which brings to mind the aromas of the neighbourhoods below the Acropolis. Describe your approach to creating non-alcoholic/low ABV drinks? When planning a low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktail or a boozy one, you must create a balanced drink with the right ingredients, so the procedure I follow is essentially the same. But in low ABV cocktails you have to create a protagonist as the spirit goes into a secondary role or isn’t used at all. What’s the main reason for having them on your menu? Those drinks fit into our concept, our soul and the philosophy of our bar. I also believe that low ABV/nonalcoholic cocktails are a global trend that’s growing day by day, and that consumers are looking to enjoy in bars.
24 - The Cocktail Lovers
I think 10-15 years ago almost no one put low ABV or non-alcoholic cocktails on their menus and now we’re seeing more and more bars giving them attention. New bars are opening with concepts based on aperitivo and low ABV cocktails, such as Bar Termini in London and Dante in New York. Here in Athens we have many bars like The Clumsies serving non-alcoholic versions of classic cocktails like Negronis and gin and tonics. Finally we have the creation of products that look like spirits but are alcohol-free. Can you share your favourite low ABV/non-alcoholic cocktail recipe with us? From our new menu my favourite low ABV cocktail (you can also order it without alcohol) is the Ramble & Run Fizz – inspired by a green hill in the centre of Athens where Athenians go walking or running. We aimed to create a low ABV cocktail with the characteristics of a green antioxidant juice, basically something you would like to drink after a light workout or a pleasant walk.
Ramble & Run Fizz 30ml Bombay Gin 15ml Odori dry blend vermouth 30ml Green Hill cordial 10ml egg white Top up with Three Cents Aegean tonic water Shake ingredients and serve with ice cubes in a Highball glass. Top with soda. Garnish with sprouts and spray with lemongrass ouzo.
Greg Almeida 2017 UK Winner, Scarfes Bar, London
HAVE YOU GOT WHAT IT TAKES TO BE THE 2018 UK PATRÓN PERFECTIONIST? Challenge the nation’s best bartenders in pursuit of the perfect cocktail at this year’s Patrón Perfectionists competition. Enter at www.patronperfectionists.com from 8th May 2018 for your chance to be crowned UK winner and compete against the world’s best bartenders at the Global Final at Hacienda Patrón, Mexico.
PATRONPERFECTIONISTS.COM The Perfect Way to Enjoy Patrón is Responsibly © Patrón Spirits International AG 2018 40% abv
IN-the spotlight
KNOW YOUR ABVS BY JANE RYAN
Drink less, drink better. More drink, less drunk. Low and no. If you’ve been anywhere near a bar in the past three years you’ll have heard one of these key phrases – signifying that the world’s had quite enough of hangovers, thank you very much, and is serious when it says things are going to change
The Cocktail Lovers - 27
IN-spire
This latest generation, my generation, is one of the first to be drinking less than their parents. Stories of bingedrinking Brits abroad may well be drying up as health, wellness and mindfulness become the latest trends. Welcome to the future of drinking, it’s less hazy and you’ll feel fine tomorrow morning in Downward Dog, Baby Cobra or binding on Warrior Two. But we don’t want to stop the party entirely, so with moderation and a keen thought for our health in mind, what are the lowand no-alcohol options out there?
alcohol cocktail. Here’s another term to learn: reducedalcohol which, as opposed to low-alcohol, is a drink that has an alcohol content lower than the average strength of its category. It’s these drinks that are perhaps the most important to health-conscious drinkers – ones that mean a night out is still fun and tasty but doesn’t end in tequila shots. A glance across Europe will reveal bountiful options: from Floc de Gascogne to RinQuinQuin, there’s a flavour that will work for everyone – even the Queen and her Dubonnet.
Low-alcohol refers to drinks that have an alcoholic strength by volume (ABV) of between 0.5 and 1.2%. For reference, most spirits are around 40% and cocktails range from 13% for a Mojito all the way up to 37% for a Dry Martini – so low-alcohol as a technical term is extremely low. Even Miller Lite, the beer that substitutes for water in New Orleans, doesn’t make it into this category. However, and this is where things can get confusing, sometimes that ABV percentage is misleading. Think of it this way; a Daiquiri and a double rum and coke have the same amount of spirit but will have different ABV strengths. Why? In the first you’re diluting the booze with a splash of lime juice and sugar and in the other you’re adding at least 100ml of fizzy drink. If you opt for the rum and coke you’ve got a drink that’s technically lower in ABV because you’ll have more liquid to consume to get your double shot, but that doesn’t make it a less boozy option or any healthier.
What about the no-alcohol option however? Whether you’re taking one round out, a month or a year (presumably not much longer if you’re reading The Cocktail Lovers Magazine) the no-alcohol category has become very important to both brands and bars as society sobers up. Sitting in a bar sipping on guava juice is nobody’s idea of a good time though, which is why serious money has gone into developing drinks that at the very least make you feel like you’re still part of the night out.
Almost all non-alcoholic beers and wines are made in the same way as their boozy counterparts right up until bottling So if you’re looking to cut down on your booze intake, when should you pay attention to the ABV? It's most useful as an indicator for the drink base – the principal ingredient – be that a spirit, liqueur or wine – less than 25% ABV and you'll be able to create a tasty reduced-
28 - The Cocktail Lovers
Think of it this way: a Daiquiri and a double rum and coke have the same amount of spirit but will have different ABV strengths Replacing spirits for a boozeless option is a corner of the market arguably conquered by Seedlip. From humble beginnings, this distilled non-alcoholic spirit burst onto the scene in 2015 and now has investment from drinks giant Diageo, a second flavour Seedlip Spice on the market, hosted a garden at the Royal Chelsea Flower Show and only recently poached Claire Warner from Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (p. 52) to head-up new product development. There really isn’t a non-alcoholic product that’s been as well-thought out as Seedlip, slotting into the bar seamlessly. Does it taste like a spirit? In a word, no. Nothing can echo ethanol’s distinct aroma and mouthfeel. But in the world of mixed drinks Seedlip brings enough flavour to the table to stand up against citrus, sugar and mixers.
IN-spire
However, the challenge of an alcohol-free spirit alternative, made to be drunk in a cocktail or served long with a mixer, isn’t quite so terrifying as alcohol-free beer and wine, which is nearly impossible to make as quaffable and tasty as an IPA or Loire Valley muscadet. Almost all non-alcoholic beers and wines are made in the same way as their boozy counterparts right up until bottling. They essentially start life as real beer or wine which is either filtered to remove its alcohol or heated to evaporate it off. This naturally tampers with the flavour in a way that drinkers notice – especially mouthfeel. But thanks to branding, budgets and a lot of investment into improving the product (including evaporating the alcohol in a vacuum to reduce the need for high temperatures and thus not cooking the rest of the product), the booze-free beer market has some big industry leaders. Scottish punk brewers Brew Dog and their Nanny State 0.5% ABV hoppy ale is one of the best-loved. Inspired to make a non-alcoholic (0.5% or below) beer that was flavourful, the Brew Dog team employed five aggressive hops and eight malts to really pack a punch. Another key player has been Clausthaler in Germany, an entirely nonalcoholic brewery, who decided to see if they could stop fermentation before it turned into alcohol. Spoilers, this unique take on the category worked and the beer hasn’t had to undergo any aggressive filtration or cooking. The wine trade hasn’t been as successful in getting boozeless options out there and although there are a few sites selling non-alcoholic wine, mostly based in The Netherlands, an industry standout has yet to emerge. There’s little information currently, but it would be interesting to understand why the demand for nonalcoholic beer is so much higher than for non-alcoholic wine, and whether that’s down to social pressures on blokes having a cold one on the go at all times.
It would be interesting to understand why the demand for non-alcoholic beer is so much higher than for nonalcoholic wine
Between negotiating the truth on labels, understanding the importance (and sometimes lack thereof) of ABV, and even considering the sugar in mixers, we’re not quite there when it comes to understanding the healthiest way to drink. But we’re certainly on the path to enjoying alcohol responsibly – something the government has been begging us to try since TV advertising began. So whether you’re exploring the low or no ends of the spectrum, a Sunday night out with flavourful drinks is still entirely possible. And so too is a hangover-free Monday.
The Cocktail Lovers - 29
IN-the spotlight
THE ART OF DRINKING MINDFULLY 30 - The Cocktail Lovers
BY JUSSI TOLVI
IN-the spotlight
Mindful drinking is the trend of the moment. It can mean different things to different people, but the most important point is to pay a bit more attention to what, when and how you drink. You may decide to have alcoholic drinks only at the weekends. Or limit yourself to a maximum of three drinks per evening. Or switch from doubles to single measures in your G&T. Whatever your personal goals are, here are five simple tips to help you achieve them – call them the art and science of mindful drinking: 1. Plan ahead. Decide what your goals are, and how you will meet them. Be precise: if you only plan to ‘drink a bit less’, you won’t even know what that means yourself, let alone be able to explain it to someone else if they ask. There’s no need to set up a spreadsheet for this, but at a minimum you need to decide on which days you will drink, exactly what you will drink, and how many of those you will have. And then stick to your plans. 2. Stay hydrated. After planning, this is maybe the most important thing. If you feel thirsty, you’re likely to down your drinks too quick – and miss out on savouring the flavours. So make sure you drink enough liquids throughout the day (water, tea, juice, soft drinks, etc). Starting your evening with one or two alcohol-free drinks will not only keep you hydrated, but also give you time to see how the night’s going before you decide whether to drink or not. 3. Don’t starve. Eating is not cheating. As with being thirsty, you’re much more likely to overdo the drinking if what you really need is something to eat. Plus, a bit of food in your stomach will slow down the alcohol getting into your bloodstream. So at the very least, grab a sandwich before hitting the bar or even before you go out for a meal – keeping to your drinking plans is more important than whether you finish your chips. 4. Go long. The longer your drink, the lower the strength. And the longer it takes to drink, the slower the alcohol will be absorbed into your system and the less tipsy you’ll get. The mixers will also help keep you hydrated (see above). Stick to single measures and your night will last twice as long. 5. Tonics aren’t just for gin. They’re a drink in their own right too. Check behind the bar or ask what they have – with luck you will find all sorts of fancy flavours. Try the Pomegranate and Basil from Double Dutch, or the Salted Paloma from Peter Spanton. And once you’ve exhausted the tonic options, don’t forget bitters – a few drops in a tonic water will open up another world of flavour combinations. Most bars will have a bottle of Angostura, but keep an eye out for other brands as well – Bitter Union have a great range. One last thing about your mindful drinking goals: what to do if you slip? So you were determined to stick to your limit, but wake up with a banging headache. The natural instinct is to conclude that you’re just a great big failure,
and you’ll never manage to moderate your drinking. Don’t give in to that temptation. We’re all only human. Look after yourself, treat yourself well and once your brain is properly up and running again, have a little debrief with yourself: what went wrong? Why did you overdo it? What do you need to do differently next time? At Club Soda, we know that changing behaviours can be difficult. But at least by getting more mindful about your drinking habits, you’ve the excitement of finding and trying out new drinks. On top of the tonics and bitters, there’s a whole new world of flavours to experience, from kombuchas and shrubs to craft sodas and botanical brews. And, of course, cocktails.
WHY COCKTAIL BARS ARE GREAT FOR MINDFUL DRINKERS Mindful drinking most certainly doesn’t mean having to stay in. Last year, London Cocktail Week gave all the bars taking part in the event a challenge to create a special lower-alcohol cocktail for the week as well as the usual full-strength one. London Cocktail Week’s embracing of lower-strength drinks is a good sign of better things to come for all the social mindful drinkers. Another is the Club Soda Guide (clubsodaguide.com), a listings site of great places for mindful drinkers, which is a good source of ideas for going out in London. One of our big discoveries from signing up nearly 300 venues to the Guide has been the realisation that bars that are good for mindful drinkers are just all-round great places. If a venue puts some real thought into their lowand no-alcohol drinks, they’re likely to put the same effort into everything they do, from their alcoholic drinks menu and their food offer to their staff.
WHY COCKTAILS ARE GREAT FOR MINDFUL DRINKERS Cocktails have the theatre and glamour that Millennials especially are looking for on a night out (think Instagram). Since cocktails are always made on the spot, they’re also an easy drink to get more mindful with. Any good bartender will be able to create interesting combinations from the ingredients behind their bar. The one wish that probably all mindful drinkers have for the bartenders of the world is not to respond to a question about non-alcoholic cocktails with an “I can make you anything you want”. They are meant to be the professional in this scene, and give the customer a bit of guidance. By all means they should ask if guests would like something sweet, bitter, or blue; maybe offer a suggestion or two to help you decide. And by the way, could we agree to ban words like ‘mocktail’ and ‘softail’? A non-alcoholic cocktail is still a cocktail, right? Find out more at clubsoda.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 31
Promotion
Making history
HOW ONE MAN BROUGHT GIN DISTILLING BACK TO THE CITY OF LONDON In the 18th century there were gin distilleries all over the City of London, but changes in the law and high taxation saw them gradually disappear until the last one closed in 1825. For 187 years no gin was made there, then in 2012 one man made it his mission to bring it back. The year is 1976 and a young man named Jonathan Clark is in an establishment called the City Snooker Club. He’s not there to play snooker though. “I used to do the washing up,” Jonathan explains in a matter-of-fact manner. Some 42 years later he still derives employment in the very same building. The circumstances, though, couldn’t be more different. For Jonathan’s the man who’s responsible for bringing gin back to the City of London and the building now fittingly goes by the name of the City of London Distillery. So how did he get here? By his own admission the first 20 or so years were pretty pedestrian. “Originally my sister was the manageress. When she left, I became first the bar manager, then the overall manager.” Then in 1996 he got the chance to buy the building and started to lease it out. Fast-forward
32 - The Cocktail Lovers
another 15 years to 2011 and he’s summoned to a meeting in the City. In an austere room his attention is drawn to a very tall pile of papers. “They were complaints. Apparently my tenant had been running a lap dancing club and the neighbours weren’t happy. I was given one month to remove that tenant and I thought what am I going to do with this place?” What could have been a disaster turned out to be an essential part of a new journey. The other key parts were discovering gin and a trip to New York. “At the age of 50 I had my first gin and tonic. I’d never drunk gin before because I thought of it as an old person’s drink. I used to drink red wine but, for me, this was totally new.”
Promotion
“Around the same time I also visited New York, where I discovered a bar that had a distillery in it. I loved the concept, so basically came back to London and ordered two stills for that empty space. What I didn’t realise were all the problems of doing it – like needing £20,000 worth of bomb-proof glass and safety lighting – but after nine months I eventually got permission to go ahead. I hadn’t a clue what I’d let myself in for, but it was great!”
“I’m proud of what I’ve done and I believe in what I’ve created,” he concludes modestly. As for that 19-year-old man back in the 1970s, he had no idea that one day, in that very same space, in the heart of the City of London, he’d no longer be washing glasses but filling them with his very own historical gin.
The City of London Distillery, complete with bar, was born. But there was still the matter of actually making the gin.
50ml City of London Distillery Gin
“I didn’t know anything about gin and I had to learn how to make it. I went to Desmond Payne, Beefeater Master Distiller, Charles Maxwell from Thames Distillery, and later Tom Nichol of Tanqueray. They were fantastic. I regularly asked Desmond and Charles to sample a bottle of my gin and said ‘what do you think?’ I changed one thing at a time and it took me two years. The biggest thing I learned from them was balance. “I still remember the thrill of producing my first bottle. It was a simple design with a red wax top and it sold for £32.50 – because that’d been my first wage back when I was doing the washing up.” Since opening in 2012 the City of London Distillery has launched five gin expressions, won numerous awards for quality and the City of London Mayor pays an official visit each year. Jonathan, however, remains grounded and adamant about one of the things that makes his gin unique. “It has to be made in the City of London, that’s essential.
CITY OF LONDON NEGRONI 25ml Campari 25ml Cocchi Vemouth di Torino Method: Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Coupe glass. Garnish with an orange twist. City of London Gin is available from Waitrose, Master of Malt and cityoflondondistillery.com. For trade enquiries, contact halewood-int.com
HOW DOES JONATHAN ENJOY CITY OF LONDON GIN?
“With ice, equal measures tonic and soda waters, garnished with an orange twist” cityoflondondistillery.com Enjoy City of London Gin responsibly
The new St. Paul’s Cathedral inspired bottle design The Cocktail Lovers - 33
GO LOW
(OR GO HOME)
34 - The Cocktail Lovers
It's cool to think low volume as Ben Norum finds out The UK’s bar scene is at an all-time high, and more people than ever are quaffing quality cocktails on a regular basis. But that doesn’t necessarily mean Britain is getting boozier. To the contrary, leading bartenders in the British capital and beyond are giving wellness a wink and embracing the notion of low- and no-alcohol mixes like never before. Among those championing the view that the tastiest drinks don’t have to leave you the tipsiest are cocktail power couple, and founders of Swift in London’s Soho, Bobby Hiddleston and Mia Johansson. “Low-alcohol cocktails are definitely on trend. People are more conscious of what they drink now so it’s a natural progression that people want to drink less and better,” says Bobby.
IN-the spotlight
opposite: the air raid cocktail at dandelyan; above: eve bar at frog; right: the sgroppino at swift
Mia reckons that frequency may also be a factor. “There’s a trend towards drinking in the daytime and earlier in the week, which leads to a demand for lower ABV drinks,” she adds. Among the most popular cocktails at Swift is the Sgroppino, a take on the Italian classic, which combines Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto aperitivo with prosecco and sorbet – a drink low on booze but high on impression. Creating drinks that are small in ABV but big in flavour is challenging, admits Mia. “Flavour is about attracting the whole palate and often low-alcohol options are one-dimensional,” she says. “But if people think about sweet, salty, bitter, fresh, creamy and fruity tastes then it brings much more dimension to a drink.” Another bartender in favour of less strong drinks is Jake O’Brien Murphy, who played a big part in shaping the offering at Callooh Callay, and has recently opened the Horatio Street Social Club near Columbia Road with the bar’s former manager Simon Thompson. “Low ABV drinks are the logical extension of a bartender’s creative process, as techniques and equipment become more refined it’s becoming easier for us to explore flavour in a more considered way,” he says. He adds: “For a long time as a tiny baby bartender I relied on big boozy drinks to deliver flavour, naturally things that have been aged or have a high ABV will be brimming with potential for tasty drinks. A turning point for me was trying anything Marcis Dzelzainis from Sager & Wilde made. There are nuances to his zero-alcohol drinks that very few people can achieve in a glass full of booze.” The man at Dandelyan’s helm, Ryan Chetiyawardana, cites several ingredients as being ‘secret weapons’ in adding depth to low-booze drinks, including ferments, vinegars, the non-alcoholic spirit Seedlip, and all manner of homemade syrups and cordials made by evaporating
and condensing ingredients. It doesn’t all have to be quite so Heston Blumenthal, though. One of the most popular – and successful – ingredients in low-alcohol cocktails is something you probably drink every day: good old-fashioned tea.
There’s a trend towards drinking in the daytime and earlier in the week, which leads to a demand for lower ABV drinks Among its advocates is Francesco Cama, assistant bar manager at Covent Garden’s Frog restaurant and its basement bar Eve. The offerings here include a specially created flight of non-alcoholic cocktails designed to match with each course of chef Adam Handling’s complex tasting menu. “The tannin in the tea helps create a richer mouthfeel, and this in turn stimulates the palate, which means the cocktails go especially well with a meal. It’s the same reason why wines with tannins pair so well with food,” he explains. Bigging up the ferments is Noel Venning, who runs Kingsland Road bar Three Sheets. A fermented peach cordial brings booze-like backbone to Peach, a favourite at his new venture Bar III (p. 67). He argues that simplicity is also key. “Because there is less alcohol to carry flavours, if there are too many conflicting ingredients it will become harder to pick out what’s actually there,” he explains.
The Cocktail Lovers - 35
IN-the spotlight
One person for whom low ABV is not enough is Catherine Salway, co-founder of the Redemption Bar group which runs teetotal bars in Notting Hill and Shoreditch (p. 60). It may sound like something of a night out niche, but they’re clearly doing something right. “We’ve seen 100% year-on-year growth,” she explains. “People are making more conscious and healthy choices. Lots of them are turning vegan and teetotal and others are just putting more healthy decisions into their week or their day.”
People are making more conscious and healthy choices. Lots of them are turning vegan and teetotal and others are just putting more healthy decisions into their week or their day Her top tips are “not to fall into the trap of making a sugary drink that one could argue is almost as bad for you,” and birch syrup, which has a deeper, more complex taste than sugar. “We use it instead of a sugar syrup in the bar to sweeten our more tangy cocktails, like our Fro-corita, which is a twist on a frozen Margarita,” she says. While it seems both bartenders and customers are keen to welcome low- and no-alcohol cocktails into their repertoire, what do they make of the booze-free business’s busiest month? Francesco Cama isn’t convinced. “I’m not a fan of it, not for business reasons or because drinking less isn’t a good thing but because it justifies the other 11 months of drinking. People should be more focused on moderation on a daily basis rather than going all-or-nothing.” Bobby Hiddleston argues to the contrary. “People think that bars are going to suffer and it’s a big social media trend, but it makes people think about what they’re putting in their body and makes them more conscious of what they do, which can only be a good thing.”
36 - The Cocktail Lovers
top: simon thompson and jake o’brien murphy from horatio street social club; above: the canon cosmo at dandelyan
Simon Thompson is more prosaic. “I’m not a fan, but like it or not Dry January isn’t going anywhere. People will always want to have a good time in a bar, with or without booze, so it’s up to bars and bartenders to make sure they’re offering something for everyone.” That’s something we can all agree on, whether you’re going big and boozy or free from but fully flavoured. After all, variety and moderation are the best mixes of all.
Promotion
Innovation + collaboration = inspiration Meet The Mixing Stars: Stuart Bale, Crucible, London “If you wanted to record an album, you wouldn’t buy a recording studio, you’d go somewhere that had the best equipment and do it there. I realised that kind of communal working space was something that would be great for the drinks industry. So I took a punt and did it.” The realisation of this simple but insightful idea from Stuart Bale was his innovative working space, Crucible. Situated in an unprepossessing building in East London you wouldn’t suspect that you were heading into a creative hub, but that’s exactly what it is. On the ground floor – where the walls are covered with inspirational street art depicting cocktail paraphernalia – there’s a neat bar area, along with an oven and a fridge. So far so good. Look a bit closer and there’s photographic equipment, areas for hot-desking and a tasting space. It’s the upstairs, though, that’s really guaranteed to get bartenders’ pulses racing. The large white room is filled with state-of-the-art culinary and lab equipment: a rotavapor, dehydrator, centrifuge, vacpac machine and laser thermometer – not to mention an ice-cream maker. It’s the kind of creative playground that the best bartenders would love to utilise but previously couldn’t due to financial or space restrictions. Now they can. It’s more than just a drinks lab though. The other key element of Stuart’s thinking was collaboration. It’s also a space to bring together world-class bartenders, drinks industry heavyweights and flavour experts in a creative drinks community.
The result of this particular collaboration was Disaronno + Milk. It’s a drink that takes the essential characteristics of Disaronno and reimagines it in a way that’s as surprising as it is satisfying. It’s this innovation, collaboration and inspiration emerging from a session at Crucible that Stuart’s passionate about encouraging and supporting in the drinks industry. And that’s a very good thing for discerning drinkers. To find out more about Stuart Bale’s Crucible see The Mixing Stars films at facebook.com/TheMixingStar Since launching at the end of 2017 The Mixing Stars has showcased bartenders from Milan, Amsterdam and London, with more to come this year. Watch out for updates in The Cocktail Lovers Magazine.
Different techniques, different ingredients, different ideas – it’s really inspiring. The Mixing Star serve: Disaronno + Milk 35ml milk-washed Disaronno* 15ml Disaronno Homemade ginger ale *For the milk-washed Disaronno: 300g Disaronno 75g lemon juice 100g warm milk Mix the three ingredients to make the milk-washed Disaronno, allow to settle and put through a centrifuge. Add this and the Disaronno to an ice-filled Collins glass, stir and top with the ginger ale. Garnish with a twist of orange zest.
“We do all of our research there,” explains Max Venning from Three Sheets, London. “The equipment and stuff is great but the main beauty of it is working with all these different types of people who are working with different techniques, different ingredients, different ideas – it’s really inspiring.” disaronno.com
Please drink responsibly The Cocktail Lovers - 37
IN-dulge
Mind the app!
10 NIFTY APPS TO GET YOUR WELLNESS GOALS ON TRACK
FOR MOTIVATING YOUR WORKOUT Fit Radio FOR GETTING YOUR ZZZZS Sleep Cycle Never underestimate the power of sleep – and quality is key. Sleep Cycle uses sound analysis to monitor your patterns then eases you into the day by waking you in your lightest sleep phase.
Find the perfect daily changing DJ playlist to fuel your exercise session, choosing by genre, BPM or workout type. Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
FOR IRONING OUT THE KNOTS Yoga Wake Up Schedule wake-ups and set bedtimes with this app, which offers guided yoga, meditation and breathing exercises to perform in your bed or on the mat. Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
FOR FINDING YOUR ZEN
FOR FITNESS ON THE FLY
Insight Timer
Seven
Featuring over 8,000 guided meditations and 34 playlists for sleep, relaxation, anxiety and mindfulness, with your choice of ambient sounds. Free (plus in-app purchases): iOS, Apple and Android
38 - The Cocktail Lovers
You might not have an hour to spend in the gym, but seven minutes? Everyone can manage that. Choose from Get Fit, Lose Weight or Get Strong, and bam! In 420 seconds, you’re done. Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
IN-dulge
FOR TRACKING YOUR RUNS Runtastic Pro Set workout goals, train at race pace, choose your power song, get cheered on during your run and get audio feedback – all from your phone. Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
FOR MEAL MOTIVATION Zipongo Plan your healthy meals with Zipongo. This app includes recipes in 50 categories – including high-protein, Asian, low-cal, immunity boosters, vegan and paleo – complete with calorie counts and the option to save ingredients to a shopping list. Good stuff! Free: Apple and Android
FOR FIRMING UP Nike Training Club With over 150 free training plans for workouts for every level of fitness, daily workout recommendations and slick video guides from trainers and athletes, this app has everything you need to shape up. Free: Apple and Android
FOR KEEPING ON TRACK Way of Life
FOR POSITIVE THINKING Pacifica Track your habits, record your moods, set goals and challenges and cheer up with happy music – what else could you need?
Equip yourself with the tools you need to build new habits and break bad ones in a few seconds a day. Includes a diary function to note what triggered your mood – the willpower is down to you. Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
Free (plus in-app purchases): Apple and Android
The Cocktail Lovers - 39
IN-focus
BEST FOR ALL-ROUND GOOD HEALTH Sun salutation This meditation is a great way to start the day. It connects breath and movement to improve blood circulation, calm your nervous system and reduce stress levels.
STRIKE A POSE
Back playing up? Feeling the effects of the night before? Whether you spend more time in front of or behind the bar, there’s a yoga position for everything that ails you. Here our cover star Camille Ralph Vidal, Global Brand Ambassador at St~Germain and professional yoga teacher, goes through the essentials PHOTOGRAPHY: LAWRENCE WATSON
40 - The Cocktail Lovers
1
2
3
5
3a
7
4
9
5a
8
6
1. Stand at the front of your mat with your legs together, your arms by your sides and your weight balanced in your feet. Relax your shoulders. 2. As you inhale, lift both your arms up towards the ceiling. As you exhale, bring your palms together in front of your chest in prayer position. Inhale. Lift your arms up and back, stretching your body from your heels to finger tips. 3. Breathing out, bend forward from the waist, keeping spine straight. As you exhale completely, bring your hands down to the floor beside your feet (bend your knees if the position is too much, 3a).
4. Inhale as you lift your torso halfway, lengthening your spine so your back is flat. Your torso should be parallel to the floor, fingertips on the floor or at your shins. 5. Exhale as you step back into Plank Pose, with your hands under your shoulders and feet hip-distance apart. Continue exhaling as you lower your body towards the floor, keeping your elbows tucked in towards your sides. Modify the pose by resting on your knees (5a). 6. Lower yourself down and inhale as you draw your chest forward and straighten your arms. Draw your shoulders back and lift your heart to the sky.
7. Exhale as you lift your hips and roll over your toes, placing the soles of your feet on the f loor and lengthening your spine. Lift your belly and sit bones towards the sky. Stay here for 5 breaths. On the fifth breath, bend your knees and look between your arms. 8. Exhale as you fold your torso over your thighs, bending your knees if necessary. Rest your hands beside your feet and bring your nose to your knees. 9. Inhale as you sweep your arms out to the side and extend upwards. Gently arch your back and gaze up to the sky. Exhale as you bring your hands together in front of you in prayer position.
The Cocktail Lovers - 41
IN-focus
1. BEST TO EASE BACK PAIN
2. BEST TO AID DIGESTION
1.2 Supine Twist 1. Lie on your back, both legs extended. arms at your side on the floor. Bring your left knee towards your chest. 2. Slowly drop your left knee to the right and either keep your neck neutral or turn your gaze to the right. Try to keep both shoulder blades on the floor, and if your top knee lifts too much, gently press it down with your right hand. Relax in the position for 1-4 minutes. 3. Bring your knee back to your chest and repeat on the other side.
1.1 Cat-Cow
2. Inhale as you lift your chest and chin, dropping your belly towards the mat.
4. Inhale, then come back to Cow Pose, then exhale as you repeat Cat Pose. Repeat 5-10 times.
1.3 Cobra 1. Lay flat on your mat with your palms face down and your hands directly under your shoulders. 2. Hug your elbows in, draw your legs together and press the tops of your feet into the floor. Use the strength of your back, not your hands, to lift your chest off the floor. 3. Hold the position for 5-10 breaths and repeat as needed.
42 - The Cocktail Lovers
1. Start with your legs extended in front of you and your spine long. 2. Bend your right knee, placing it on the floor with the heel close to your left sitting bone. 3. Bend your left knee and cross it over your right leg, with the left foot positioned on the outside of your right thigh. Keep both of your hips grounded to the floor. 4. Lift your right arm up towards the sky to lengthen your spine, then place your left hand behind you, fingers pointing to the back of the mat. Bring your right hand down to the outside of your left thigh.
1. Start on your hands and knees with your wrists directly under your shoulders – your fingertips pointing to the front of the mat, your knees directly under your hips.
3. Next, move into Cat Pose: as you exhale, draw your belly to your spine and round your back towards the ceiling. Release the top of your head towards the floor.
2.1 Half Lord of the Fishes
5. Begin to twist by pressing your right arm outside the left thigh, rotating the spine. Remain in the pose for five counts, lengthening your spine with each inhalation while twisting deeper with each exhalation. 6. Unwind from the twist and return to the centre, sitting straight with your legs extended in front of you. Take a few breaths before repeating on the other side.
IN-focus
5. BEST FOR SHOULDERS
2.2 Seated Forward Fold
3.2 Ragdoll Pose
1. Sit straight up with your legs extended in front of you.
1. Stand with your feet hip-width apart, toes pointing forwards.
2. Bring both of your arms up towards the ceiling.
2. Bring your hands to your hips.
5.1 Child’s Pose
3. Slightly bend your knees and hinge forward from the hips. Cross your arms, holding on to opposite elbows.
1. Begin on your hands and knees.
3. Exhale. Fold your body forward, hinging from your hips, placing your hands on your shins or your toes. Hold pose for a few breaths.
3. BEST TO RELIEVE HEADACHES
4. Sway gently from side to side to fully release your spine. 5. Make sure there’s no tension in your neck by moving your head side to side as if you’re gesturing “no, no”, “yes, yes”. Remain in the pose for 5-10 deep breaths, breathing in and out of your nose. 6. Bring your hands to your hips, keeping your knees bent, then come up to standing.
4. BEST TO EASE OUT OF A HANGOVER 3.1 Seated Neck Release 1. Sit in a comfortable position, crosslegged if possible. 2. Lengthen your neck and straighten your spine, then place your left hand on the right side of your head, gently tilting your head to the left. Do not pull, just let the weight of your hand and gravity do the job. Hold for a few breaths, then slowly switch sides. 3. Repeat a few times to release neck tension and reduce the intensity of the headache.
2. Spread your knees wide apart while keeping your big toes touching. 3. Settle your buttocks towards your heels as you stretch the rest of your body down and forward. 4. Rest your arms in a relaxed position along the floor with your stomach resting on top of your thighs and your forehead resting on the mat. Hold the pose for a minute or so, breathing softly and letting go of any tension in your body. 5. Use your hands to walk your torso upright to sit on your heels.
Join Camille aka Om_Cami for her Healthy Hospo yoga sessions sponsored by St~Germain, every Monday at Blok in Shoreditch, London. For more details see healthyhospo.com
4.1 Savasana 1. Lie on your back with a big book under your head. 2. Close your eyes and very slowly turn your head side-to-side as if you were saying, “noooooo”.
The Cocktail Lovers - 43
The bitters effect Where non-alcoholic drinks get serious Everyone knows that ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters is a staple behind the world’s best bars, adding distinction and character to all manner of classic cocktails. But did you know that it’s a vital ingredient in non-alcoholic drinks as well? Little wonder really. With its secret blend of over 40 herbs, roots and spices, ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters is incredibly versatile, imparting muchneeded complexity to the simplest drinks. Just a few dashes added to sodas, tonics, juices, even tea and coffee, brings an incredible depth that you just don’t get from anything else. Don’t take our word for it, try it for yourself. Mixing up ANGOSTURA® Lemon, Lime and Bitters is a good place to start. A fresh zing of citrus is livened with bubbles and enriched with layer upon layer of intricate flavours that come from the ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters – no other nonalcoholic sparkling beverage packs quite the same punch. But then, no other non-alcoholic sparkling beverage in the world has the agreeable intensity that comes from ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters. Created in 1824 by Dr Johann Siegert and originally marketed for restorative purposes, the iconic ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters bottle with the oversized label is as steeped in mystery as it is with great taste. Take the fact that it’s packaged as 44.7% ABV, for instance. Once a few dashes are diluted and lengthened in a non-alcoholic liquid such as your favourite cola, the alcohol content is so minuscule that it’s rendered null and void*. Not by us, we hasten to add, but by licensing laws in the US and UK. Which makes it the perfect choice to have in your kitchen as well as the bar – especially when you’re looking to up your flavour game with non-alcoholic drinks. Try it in the recipes here and add a few dashes to zhoosh up your favourite soft drinks. You’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.
Angostura® Lemon, Lime and Bitters 5-6oz lemon-lime soda 6-8 dashes ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters Lemon or lime wedge to garnish (optional) Method: Add lemon-lime soda to an ice-filled Highball glass and top with ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters. Garnish by squeezing a lemon or lime wedge into the drink.
Angosoda 6-8oz sparkling water 4 dashes ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters Lemon wedge to garnish Method: Fill a Highball glass with sparkling water. Top with ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters and garnish with the lemon wedge. Stir gently to combine the ingredients then serve.
Aromatic coffee Freshly brewed coffee 3 dashes ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters Milk or cream to taste Sugar to taste
For more recipes, see angosturabitters.com or download the app angosturabitters.com/app
*A non-alcoholic beverage is defined in the UK and the US as a beverage that contains less than 0.5% ABV.
Promotion
My definition of refreshing starts with Lemon, Lime and always ends with Bitters Daniyel Jones, Brand Ambassador – The House of ANGOSTURA®
Did you know?
Bitters increase balance and intensify flavour in light beverages. They also cleanse the palate, counteract the acidic content of citrus juice and aid digestion. Not bad for one little bottle.
FUN FACT: Despite the name, ANGOSTURA® aromatic bitters isn’t bitter when added to drinks – ‘bitters’ is the generic category for products made from gentian, aromatic herbs and spices.
The Cocktail Lovers - 45
IN-the mix
THE LIGHT TOUCH PHOTOGRAPHY: ADDIE CHINN
Low ABV and non-alcoholic tipples for when you’re turning down the volume in your glass at home
IN-the mix
SIPPING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC Otto’s Athens Vermouth (17% ABV) athensvermouth.com
IN-the mix
COCKTAIL HOUR Seedlip Spice 94 (0.0% ABV) seedlipdrinks.com The Temperance Spirits Company Teetotal G’n’T (0.0% ABV) ttscompany.co.uk
IN-the mix
ALL-DAY SPARKLING DRINKS Three Cents Pink Grapefruit Soda (0.0% ABV) threecents.co.uk Shrb Lime Juniper (0.0% ABV) shrbdrinks.com Purearth Sparkling Apple + Mint Kefir (0.0% ABV) purearth.co.uk The London Essence Company Rhubarb & Cardamom Soda (0.0% ABV) londonessenceco.com
IN-the mix
APERITIVO TIME Monte Rosso Non-Alcoholic Aperitif (0.0% ABV) monterossoaperitivo.com Chuckleberry by Lucky Liqueurs (25% ABV) mothershipscotland.com Pedrino Sherry & Tonic (5.5% ABV) pedrino.co.uk
NON-ALCOHOLIC WINE AND BEER Leitz Weingut Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol-Free Riesling (0.0% ABV) leitz-wein.de/en St. Peter’s Brewery St. Peter’s Without (0.05% ABV) Alcohol-free craft ale stpetersbrewery.co.uk
IN-the mix
IN-dependent spirits
5.
MIND BODY SPIRITS 6.
7.
Three initiatives devised with bartenders’ health in mind deprivation, being semi-permanently jet-lagged, always eating in restaurants and not exercising, meant that my nutrition was rubbish and my health wasn’t far behind. In 2016, seven years into doing the job, I had a breakdown and I decided to speak very publicly and openly about it.
HEALTHY HOSPO Tim Etherington-Judge What’s the low-down? We’re a not-for-profit, social enterprise registered in the UK as a community interest company, aimed at building a healthier, happier, more sustainable hospitality industry. Who’s behind it? At the moment, it’s only me, but there are a lot of people in the industry who support it. When did it start? We had the soft launch of the blog at the end of October 2017 and we’ve been building up from there. And why? Everyone thinks being a global ambassador is amazing and glamorous, and it certainly does have some of those elements about it, but it’s easy to get caught up in a very unhealthy lifestyle. As an ambassador I was travelling for 70-80% of my time and the combination of sleep
52 - The Cocktail Lovers
I’ve suffered from depression since my teenage years and was aware of the stigma that’s attached to mental health issues. I’d suffered in silence for so long I wanted people to know that it was something deeper, not just me being grumpy. When I did open up, one thing that really shocked me was the messages I received from people all around the world telling me about what they’d been through. It was at that moment that I thought I had to do something positive, as there are so many people out there going through the same thing. Who’s it aimed at? Anyone in hospitality – not just bartenders and drinks brand ambassadors but chefs, waiters, baristas, sales reps – even drinks journalists; anyone who works in an industry where they are up late at night. How does it work? In a number of ways. There's the education and awareness side via the articles on the blog and social media. We also have seminars to get people thinking about their health a bit more. One of the things we agreed on from the beginning was never to talk about alcohol – we don’t want to be the drinking police. It’s about focusing on the other aspects, the six pillars: sleep, nutrition, exercise, mental health, wellness and community.
IN-dependent spirits
One of the things we agreed on from the beginning was never to talk about alcohol – we don’t want to be the drinking police I work with osteopaths, movement specialists, performance nutritionists, ultra-endurance athletes, people in the industry like Camille (p. 38) and Melissa Zelaya for yoga sessions and for Pilates, Sue Leckie… bringing in specialists and people in the industry who have experience – like Head of New Products at Seedlip, Claire Warner (p. 54) who’s been a huge inspiration. Future plans? There are more workshops and events coming up and we’ll be carrying on with our yoga sessions and more weekly exercise sessions in London such as spin and HIIT. We’re working with some cool brands, there’s interest in Dubai, Hong Kong and South Africa. And I’m hoping to start a podcast. In the meantime, I’m going to Puerto Rico for a fourday workshop in April and I’ll be doing talks at Bar Convent Brooklyn, the Moscow Bar Show, Tales on Tour
in Edinburgh and Imbibe Live in London. Yes, there’s a certain amount of travel but it’s much less than it was before and now I’ll be able to manage it better. Further down the line I’m hoping to build a programme for healthy outlets. What are you most proud of? There was a moment in the first workshop when we had 100 people in the room and everyone was meditating – that was really special. But so is every time I get a message from someone commenting on one of my blog posts. I’m proud of the fact that when I survived my breakdown, I thought this has to mean something – I’ve been given a second chance and I’ve got to use it positively. Where can people find out more? healthyhospo.com
support the vision: it isn’t cheap training bartenders for three months at leading professional boxing gyms and by some of the best in the business. Thankfully Tequila Cazadores stepped up.
BARTENDER BOXING Raj Nagra What’s the low-down? Bartender Boxing is a not-for-profit organisation promoting health, wellness and boxing across the hospitality industry, while also supporting underprivileged boxing communities. Who’s behind it? I’ve been boxing for about 25 years and, knowing its real benefits, I thought it was the right time to bring boxing into more focus within our industry. It took about four years to find a sponsor that would take a risk and
The Bartender Boxing Organization team are a mix of seasoned industry professionals and boxing coaches who love the sport. Jason Littrell from Critical Mass leads the administration, Tommy Neff is our boxing coach, and then we’ve had support from people like Ben Scorah of Road Soda and Giuseppe Gonzalez from the Suffolk Arms. When did it start and why? We officially kicked off in the US last year and headlined at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans as the conclusion of the first round, which was between LA and Houston. I’ve been in the hospitality industry my whole life and I’ve had the great privilege and honour to see it expand across the globe. I struggle with the same issues as most – having to cope with extensive travel and/or late nights, and of course the social nature of our work. I know full well what boxing and sport has done for me over
The Cocktail Lovers - 53
IN-dependent spirits
the years by way of balancing my lifestyle and offsetting the negative effects. I wanted to share these learnings and give back to the community that has supported my career. Boxing leads to incredible mental strength and conditioning. Ultimately, if I can set participants on this rewarding path, then I’ve done my duty.
Who’s it aimed at? Exclusively at people in the drinks industry. We have an equal mix of male and female competitors, and actually prefer those with little to no boxing experience, to best ensure an even playing field. We do however consider all applicants and make informed decisions on match-ups as safety is paramount. What are the most important messages that you aim to get across and why? Boxing is a science and what participants soon find out is that it’s not barbaric or rudimentary at all. Once you can appreciate the basics, it’s really easy to get hooked – so be warned! The programme isn’t about the fight – that’s just a consequence. It’s more about the 12-week journey of transformation. The mental toughness is brilliant. To see participants challenge themselves over the course of the programme and gain the confidence to stand in the ring against one another is awesome! The small obstacles in life outside the gym become far less significant. Boxing is hard – so be prepared to challenge yourself, re-programme your mind and potentially end up in the best condition of your life!
The programme isn’t about the fight – that’s just a consequence. It’s more about the 12-week journey of transformation I also know how intimidating it can be walking into a new boxing gym. Through the Bartender Boxing programme, bartenders become familiar with the trainers and local community and so by the end of it, they’re more than comfortable showing up and training on their own. How does it work? Boxing is tough, so we need to ensure we find people who are able to see the programme through. We have an open application process and questionnaire that asks a lot of challenging questions about fitness history. We then do extensive interviews and vetting to create projected weight classes. Bartenders have lost up to 30 pounds over the training, so we need to be able to get as close to actual fighter weight by match time as possible. We need to be able to match these weight divisions across alternate competing cities. All fighters are registered with the USA Boxing organisation and all bouts are sanctioned at Olympic style amateur boxing level, which means weigh-ins and maximum 10lb weight difference on fight night. Then there are also age and other restrictions to consider. The fights are held over three, two-minute rounds. Fighters finish the programme with official amateur bouts under their belts and some have continued training at gyms or competing at amateur level. All fighters are insured through USA Boxing and a secondary insurance policy.
54 - The Cocktail Lovers
The routine of showing up at the gym at least three times a week for scheduled training means that a high level of discipline becomes essential. You need to very quickly consider your choices made outside of the gym. Sleep, a proper diet and rest are so important in being able to perform. If participants can see the programme through, it promises to be one of life’s memorable moments. What are you most proud of? The first bout at Fortune gym in LA. It was oversold, too crowded and so humid. The crowd was electric, and the fighters didn’t let the audience down. To see it come to life at my local sweat-box gym was awesome. We’ve come a long way since then, but it makes me smile every time. And secondly, the competitiveness of all the bouts to date. Everyone has brought their A-game and given it their best. I think this is what has the most profound effect on the audience. They quickly appreciate that it’s likely not what they expected to see; the fights are competitive and the format professional. Future plans and upcoming activities? We’re currently recruiting for Miami versus San Francisco, with an East versus West showdown at Tales of the Cocktail this year. We’ve a number of cities across the US in 2018 and we’ll also be launching in Canada. The UK and Australia are high on the priority list– the plan is to roll the programme out globally in the coming years. Where can people find out more? bartenderboxing.com, follow us on Instagram: @bartenderboxing
IN-dependent spirits
What are the most important messages that you aim to get across and why? Bartenders can be super healthy and fit. More than ever bartenders need to understand that ethanol (alcohol) is a drug. It’s addictive and a significant risk to their mental and physical state, short and long term. Fact.
BARTENDERS MANIFESTO Iain Bell What’s the low-down? The Bartenders Manifesto is a unique educational resource devoted to the global bartender movement to extend ‘responsible drinking’ from the customer to focus more exclusively on bartenders. It provides counselling, education and practical skills in exercise, nutrition and wellness. Who’s behind it? I’m an exercise and health specialist and I founded The Executive Fitness Foundation in 1991, which provides accurate and scientific information shaped exclusively for bartenders. We work with a network of specialists in nutrition, medicine immunology and sports science. When did it launch and why? Bartenders Manifesto was launched in 2015 to meet the growing trend for well-being in the fast-growing global drinks industry and in reaction to the community’s concern over how to deal with the significant and increasingly demanding bartender lifestyle. The global drinks offering is staggering and bartenders need to be fitter and healthier than ever to work productively and raise their game. How does it work? We work on a multi-platform level – from one-to-one wellness coaching all the way through to international drinks companies and bar shows. We also look after CEOs of international brands. Most importantly, we receive enquiries every week from bartenders at crisis point dealing with mental health, alcohol addiction and declining health. We offer realistic advice and direction. We also provide a ‘bartender mentoring’ programme to enhance well-being alongside professional development. Who’s it aimed at? Our target market is two fold: working with drinks companies to filter down education and skills and thereby bring about cultural change by creating a healthy environment within big organisations, and working with bartenders who are coping with the harsh realities of dealing with customers, back-to-back shifts, poor sleep patterns and the balancing act of consuming alcohol and chasing a healthy lifestyle.
However, there’s always a balance point and it’s achievable for all – with support from our global community. Educating bartenders in health change and well-being must be done by qualified professionals with the right track record. Incorrect and unqualified information is another risk. What are you most proud of? Engaging bartenders with a package of information and skills is the best feeling. It’s an eclectic mix of alcohol science, meditation, tai chi and even cross-fit. I’ve opened the Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition for a number of years; it’s a unique and exciting week and I’m thrilled by the response to bartender well-being that’s growing each year. Future plans? We’re currently finalising our global ambassador selection programme. We’ve chosen a number of key individuals who exemplify balance within the industry. They’re people who place health and well-being practice alongside their professional development. They focus on nutrition and regular exercise and use this as part of their path to industry success. We’ll continue to work hard on our initiatives with bartenders, bars and brands. As part of hospitality training and certification we’re developing a qualification that gives greater insight into ethanol physiology and alcohol safety. In time, we trust that most bartenders will realise that to raise their craft in an increasingly competitive industry they’ll need a healthy, fit body and mind. Where can people find out more? bartendersmanifesto.com
Engaging bartenders with a package of information and skills is the best feeling. It’s an eclectic mix of alcohol science, meditation, tai chi and even cross-fit
The Cocktail Lovers - 55
IN-dustry greats
WONDER WOMAN! PHOTOGRAPHY: LAWRENCE WATSON
Proving that drinks brands and wellness can be friends, first with her Drink Eat Live initiative at Belvedere Vodka and now as Head of New Products at Seedlip, give it up for Claire Warner You’ve been at the forefront of a more mindful approach to drinking for a while. Who or what sparked your interest and why? It started around 2010. I was living in New York and travelling 70% of the year. I was unhealthy, unhappy, unmotivated, tired and I started to question whether I wanted to be in the drinks industry as it was having such a toll on my mental and personal health. Fortunately, I met nutritionalist Georgia Van Tiel, and I totally credit her with transforming my perception of wellness. She allowed me to see that I could be in the drinks industry and be well and healthy without really compromising but by making better choices. How so? The first thing she told me was that I wasn’t eating enough. I was eating but not the right things. I’d put on weight and then I’d starve myself, it was a downward spiral. She taught me to eat better, I went on a big sugar detox and I became more mindful about my drinking. In what way? I limited the amount I drank by only drinking at weekends, or if I was at a social event I would only have one drink. I became very conscious about how much I was consuming. Why did you decide to embark on the Drink Eat Live initiative? The whole thing was so transformative for me that I wanted to share it with others in the drinks industry. I chose to talk about sugar as that was a huge awakening – I had no idea that sugar was so toxic and that fructose was so terrible, and yet we use so much of it in bars. So it felt like a natural starting point for a wider conversation about how we can make better choices.
IN-dustry greats
You were working with Belvedere Vodka at the time, how easy was it to get them on board with your Drink Eat Live ‘manifesto’? When I moved into leading liquid development at Belvedere, the first thing I did was to take the sugar out of the flavours that contained it, because I wanted us to talk about natural flavour. That got me thinking that there were ways we could talk about Belvedere and how it was produced while also removing and reducing the amount of sugar in cocktails and only using fresh, natural ingredients. I had a fantastic president in Charles Gibb who agreed that this was very important and was very supportive. What other initiatives did you come up with and how did you align them to the brand? In the first few years we took bartenders out of their natural habitat. We showed them that they could be in Ibiza, drink well but not consume litres of alcohol and still have a good time – in a sense it was like a forced recalibration. We wanted to make them move, do some yoga, drink some green juice. It sounds quite passé now because everybody’s doing it, but then the bartenders we selected were surprised and saw how the wellness approach had a place in hospitality. Being good to ourselves is being hospitable to us; looking after ourselves makes us better hosts; being fit and healthy means we can stand behind a bar for eight hours. Being a bartender is like an endurance sport so they need to be thinking of themselves as athletes. Other than the immersive stuff, what else did you do? We did lots of talks at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans and Tales of the Cocktail On Tour in Edinburgh. We talked to trade press and also opened a bar during London Cocktail Week, which was the first time we talked to consumers about making better choices with drinks and also around sugar and how we were using ingredients.
Tell us a little more about the market for low- and nonalcoholic drinks? Essentially the non-alcoholic space is dominated by beers and wines. Seedlip is in a category of its own. I think it has really tapped into the consumer desire to drink better. It has no sugar, no calories and is entirely natural. It’s complex, it serves the same rituals and occasions that you would find in another spirit, except it doesn’t have any alcohol. It’s really been embraced by the consumer. Who is the consumer? It’s a broad demographic, from 25-years-old to anybody. There’s a stat that about 25% of Millennials in the UK don’t drink, but as well as them, Seedlip answers the conundrum of what to order when you want something grown up, complex and flavourful but without alcohol – whether that’s because you’re driving, pregnant, tired or simply having a night off. All the cues are there for a luxury spirit but it just so happens that it’s non-alcoholic. What do you think is driving our thirst for low ABV and non-alcoholic drinks? It’s a way of life now. We’re more social, so we’re more visible. We’re also increasingly aware of our mortality and consequently, we’re seeking new ways to live longer. There’s wasted time given over to hangovers and not being able to perform properly. There are lots of contributing factors that are related to health, wellness and having more choice. Which are your favourite bars for low ABV and nonalcoholic drinks? The Savoy, Dandelyan and Mint Gun Club in London; Tjioget in Sweden, Door 74 and Flying Dutchmen in Amsterdam; Smultronstalle and The Edgbaston in Birmingham; Le Mary Celeste in Paris; Charlie Parker in Sydney to name a few.
You’re now working as Head of New Products at Seedlip – how did this come about?
Since Seedlip launched in 2015, we’ve seen a number of ‘me too’ brands. Is it flattering or plain annoying?
Ben [Branson, founder and creator of Seedlip Spirits] and I have known each other for about six years. He came to talk to me about Belvedere and nature when he was working on the agency side and over time we’ve talked about ways of working together. Last year he sent me the proposal for this job; when I read it, I got goosebumps and cried. A few years previously I’d written my perfect job and the email he sent was as if I’d manifested it – I just knew I had to do it.
What’s that saying: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”? I guess it is. We knew it was going to happen, we’re pioneers, we’ve done a great job, so it’s obvious others want to do the same. As long as the customer gets what they want then that’s what matters.
What is your role and what does it entail? My role is to break new ground and create new brands – new standalone products – that will complement Seedlip and also grow the non-alcoholic category of which Seedlip is the pioneer. We want to create more flavours, other extensions.
How do you intend to stay ahead of the pack? By remaining true to who we are and our DNA, ensuring everything we do is rooted in and respectful of nature, doesn’t compromise and continues to raise the bar higher and higher. Find out more at seedlipdrinks.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 57
Promotion
THE ITALIAN COLLECTION
MARTINI® Riserva Speciale – light, bright and very good to know Let’s hear it for vermouth, the leading light in low ABV drinks. More specifically, let’s hear it for MARTINI®, without doubt, the leading light in the field.
MARTINI® Negroni – a perfect match born in Torino
Beppe Musso and Ivano Tonutti have made sure of that. As MARTINI® Riserva Speciale Master Blender and Master herbalist respectively, they’ve devised two intricate vermouths and a must-try Bitter that deliver on every front.
25ml Martini Riserva Rubino
Let’s start with the names: MARTINI® Riserva Speciale Rubino, MARTINI® Riserva Speciale Ambrato and MARTINI® Riserva Speciale Bitter – proudly Italian and proudly part of the Martini family – you know that you’re already in safe hands.
25ml Martini Riserva Bitter 25ml Bombay Sapphire Orange to garnish Method: Add all ingredients to an ice-filled Rocks glass. Stir gently and garnish with an orange wedge.
Then there’s the heritage… It would be almost impossible to go wrong with the historical roots of the iconic MARTINI® Vermouth di Torino to draw on. Created by Alessandro Martini and Luigi Rossi, it’s been enjoyed the world over since its inception in 1863 and forms the basis of the MARTINI® Riserve Speciale collection. The bottles look rather good too, they have an elegance and attainable luxury that let you know that you’re in for something special. Which leads us on to the taste…. This is where the innovation comes in. Sure Beppe Musso and Ivano Tonutto have paid homage to the traditions of the eight Martini Masters of the past by returning to the traditional methods of resting the finished liquid in Tino oak casks. But they’ve added their own modern spin on things too. Under their watch the Tino is used for the resting of the botanical extracts only. Which makes for three very impressive expressions – the Rubino and Ambrato coming in at 18% ABV each and the MARTINI® Riserva Speciale at 28.5% ABV. Sip them like an Italian, aperitif-style, simply poured over ice or lengthened with tonic; try two-thirds of the collection in a Negroni (see right), or do like Beppe Musso and Ivano Tonutti and discover a new twist of your own.
58 - The Cocktail Lovers
ENJOY MARTINI® RESPONSIBLY. ©2017 MARTINI, THE BALL AND BAR LOGO ARE TRADEMARKS.
IN-sight
No more mocktails!
As a word it's weak, apologetic and unadventurous, unlike the new wave of imaginative creations being devised by the best bartenders As Julia Momose points out
The very term ‘mocktail’ evokes negative feelings. The word is merely the combination of ‘mock’ and ‘cocktail’. So then, is it a mockery of a cocktail, a disappointment since it isn’t a ‘real’ cocktail? I don’t want to serve, nor do I want to be served, a mock-up of a beverage or an attempt at a cocktail. I want a proper drink! Something made with care and thoughtfulness, that takes into account the ingredients, balance, technique and most of all, the person for whom the beverage is made. Changing the way we talk about non-alcoholic mixed drinks isn’t a new idea. There are an increasing number of individuals speaking out against the term ‘mocktail’, and many alternative names being used for these delightful drinks such as virgin cocktail, soft cocktail, non-alcoholic cocktail, zero-proof cocktail or alcohol-free cocktail. But all these names include an adjective that implies the drink is somehow weak or lacking. I propose that we call these stimulating beverages of diverse and distinct nonalcoholic ingredients something entirely new: spiritfree. Yes, there are no spirituous, alcoholic ingredients, which this name embraces. There is something light-hearted and intentional about the name spiritfree. It’s not holding
back, nor is it being held back. Spiritfree means flavours deliciously mixed together. A spiritfree is a well-balanced, well-thought-out, non-alcoholic cocktail. Let us show respect and empathy for people who cannot – or who choose not to – drink alcoholic beverages. Let us take action and create a term with positive connotations, which empowers the customer and the bartender. Let us serve spiritfrees. Join the movement and spread the word!
Spiritfree [spi-rit] - free NOUN, PLURAL SPIRITFREES ANY VARIETY OF STIMULATING NON-ALCOHOLIC MIXED DRINK MADE OF DIVERSE AND DISTINCT INGREDIENTS
photo by stéphan valentin on unsplash
As a bartender and in honour of the considered nonalcoholic cocktails that we serve – stimulating beverages of diverse and distinct ingredients – I’d like to put forward a manifesto for ceasing to referring to them as ‘mocktails’ and assign a name more befitting the care and skill that goes into creating them.
The Cocktail Lovers - 59
IN-formed
COCKTAILS FOR HIGH-FLIERS WITH VIRGIN ATLANTIC PART TWO
Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold – Johannesburg has as many moods as it has pet names. As South Africa’s financial capital and the most powerful commercial centre on the African continent to boot, it’s certainly big on the business front, but there’s plenty for lovers of cocktails and culture too. As we found out in the second of our series of Virgin Atlantic travel destinations… On all Virgin Atlantic flights, the customer experience is key. And for Upper Class and Flying Gold members, the experience starts long before stepping foot on the plane. There’s the limo that picks you up and whisks you straight to the Priority Queue for starters. Once you’re through security allow yourself plenty of time to relax in your departure Clubhouse – have a shower, massage,
60 - The Cocktail Lovers
hair trim or manicure, maybe, and to complete the good looks theme, be sure to slip in a shoe shine. And while you’re guaranteed delicious food onboard, you won’t want to miss the delectable offerings on the ground – the same goes for the drinks. In case you didn’t know, the team at Virgin Atlantic take their beverage offering extremely seriously. So much so that they’ve made it their business to partner up with the very best bars in each city they have a Clubhouse. Don’t believe us? Check this… We departed from London Heathrow so had the botanically charged menu from the multiple award-winning Dandelyan to choose from, but if we were leaving from Gatwick we could take our pick of cocktails from a special menu created by its equally amazing sister venue Super Lyan. And did we mention that not only are the cocktails on offer beautifully balanced and refreshing, they’re also complimentary?
IN-formed
opposite: day time drinking at mootee; above: promise and jacob behind the bar at the virgin atlantic clubhouse in johannesburg; one of the many exceptional drinks on the menu at mootee
The same goes for the San Francisco Clubhouse. Here you can sip drinks from a list created by local hero, Smuggler’s Cove. Los Angeles boasts a selection of cocktails from the Walker Inn, while those flying from New York’s JFK can choose signature drinks from Employees Only. The Clubhouse in Newark, New Jersey has some truly stunning drinks from BlackTail as does Washington DC with cocktails from the Colombia Room. And it’s not only World’s 50 Best Bars winners who get a look in – local talent is included as well. Like recently opened Mootee bar which has just landed at the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse in Johannesburg…
Mootee Bar Mootee puts a fresh and funky spin on everything you think you know about South Africa. Tapping into the rich heritage of their birthplace, Denzel Heath, Dominic Walsh and Devin Cross have created a neighbourhood bar that embraces nostalgia in a very cool, contemporary way. It’s in an up-and-coming area which makes for a very chilled, inclusive crowd. And the team are mixed too. The plan is for all of the black staff to learn Afrikaans and all of the white staff Zulu. Why? So everyone can communicate and have the opportunity to work front of house. We love the look and feel of the space – it’s large, airy, informal, tastefully designed and zoned into separate areas that take in a glassed-off lab space where guests can get an insight into the intricacies of the drinks on offer, plus indoor and outdoor areas, including a terrace for weekend ‘braai’s’. The cocktails are fun, imaginative and seriously good – all showcasing South African ingredients. As does the food. “We’re the only place you can get genuine South African home cooking like Koeksister, bitterballen and Pap and Vleis, so we’ve become as popular for our dishes as our drinks,” says Devin. We can’t say that we’re surprised. Find out more at mooteebar.co.za
Mootee Bar at the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse There are many things that unify all the Clubhouses – the great service, relaxing environment and delicious food and drinks, for instance. But we like the unique stamp that comes from each of the partner bars. Guests flying from Johannesburg are in for a treat with the very special selection of drinks devised by Mootee. Choose from Mashonza, highlighting locust bean tequila, mango leaf, naartjie and smoke; Onderstebo, apple bourbon brandy with hints of roasted pear, baobab, barley and oak; Umfazi with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Martini Extra Dry vermouth and gooseberry jam, and the Koeksister Negroni, featuring cochineal, sunflower seed and vanilla. Of course, the boys at Mootee have created the drinks but it’s down to the Virgin Atlantic crew to actually make them. And they passed our test with flying colours.
After we went to Mootee Bar to experience it firsthand – that’s when we realised it’s much more than cocktails “It’s been a great experience,” says Promise, one of the team who, with luck, will mix your drink in the Clubhouse bar. “After we went to Mootee Bar to experience it first hand – that’s when we realised it’s much more than cocktails – what they’re doing is something very special. Every cocktail has its own story – it’s not just a drink, it’s a real taste of Africa.” For this and more Virgin Atlantic flights and destinations, visit virginatlantic.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 61
IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
Hakkasan
Redemption Bar
Yeotown Kitchen
8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD. T: 020 7927 7000. hakkasan.com (£££)
320 Old Street, EC1V 9DR. T: 020 7613 0720. redemptionbar.co.uk (£)
40-42 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QN. T: 020 7935 4085. yeotownkitchen.com (£)
The vibe: With its black and gold panels, latticed wood and sleek fittings, this is one sexy and stylish place. No surprise that it's been serving discerning diners for the past 17 years.
The vibe: No frills, no fuss; the mantra of this compact and buzzy restaurant set in a former church is ‘spoil yourself without spoiling yourself.’ That translates to delicious vegan, sugar-free and wheatfree food that even meat-eaters will love. Oh, and a 100% alcohol-free bar.
The vibe: Homespun in looks, light and airy in feel. As for the mood, think that you should have either just finished a yoga class or be on your way to one. There’s a takeaway section to one side, a restaurant on the other, plus extra seating and two ‘meditation stations ’ downstairs.
The food: Fine dining this is not, but who cares? It tastes blooming great. Be warned: portions are huge so be sure to arrive hungry. The jackfruit rendang coconut curry served with black rice and carrot and cauliflower kimchi was a veritable flavourbomb that made our hearts and palates sing. The buff burger, packed with shitake mushrooms, blackbeans and ruby beets, and served in a gluten-free bun with sweet potato fries, also scored a big thumbs-up in the greedy pants and taste departments. We still made room for the seasonal cheesecake – and we're glad we did. It was light, fluffy, slightly citrusy and exceedingly good.
The food: From Optimism (gluten-free oats with berries, seeds and coconut yoghurt in a jar) for breakfast, to Curiosity (glutenfree mac and ‘cheese’ with smoked garlic and white truffle oat cream), there’s a whole lotta goodness going on. We kept it virtuous (ish) with the Courage Bowl (chickpeas, quinoa, rocket, sprouts, super seed mix, avocado, gingered sea vegetables, roasted sweet potatoes, kimchi and tahini dressing). Made for Insta moments, it was presented in separate portions – perfect for OCD people who don't like their food touching, but much better when everything was mulched together. The pickles are good but pack some serious heat. All the better for keeping lurgies at bay we say.
The food: Perfectly suited to date nights or smart business lunches, we did a mash-up of the two and opted for the Hakka Lunch. Good job – there wasn't a dud on the table. Not bad considering the feast of flavours takes in a selection of beautifully prepared dumplings and puffs – everything from scallop shumai with tobiko caviar to soy crumble bean curd dumpling with truffle and water chestnut. There's stir-fry broccoli with goji berry and crispy seaweed too, plus a big bowl of joy aka Hakka noodles. Bliss! The drinks: Talk about taking non-alcoholic drinks seriously: the team at Hakkasan have spent the past two years devising the Orchard List, a menu of 29 – count them, 29 – booze-free drinks. Taking in teas – cultured and cold brew, if you don’t mind – as well as top-notch tree waters and some extremely good drinking vinegars, juice infusions and fruit blends, it also includes bottles of delicately sparkling juices sourced from Old and New World vineyards and orchards. We particularly liked the craft soda and tonics. Try the Square Root Botanical Spritz, an agreeably complex hit of berries, citrus and spice.
62 - The Cocktail Lovers
The drinks: There's some serious thought that’s gone into the cocktail section of the menu – from Apple Mockjito to an Activated Charcoal Martini. None of the drinks contain any alcohol but sadly not all of the cocktails work – we found them to be too acidic. Try the Raspberry Royale (frozen raspberry puree and rose essence topped with sparkling water), or any of the Seedlip cocktails if they're on the menu instead.
The drinks: More healthy elixirs, smoothies and freshly squeezed juices than out-and-out cocktails. We tried the Perseverance, a warming blend of ashwagandha immunity tonic with jaggery, wildflower, honey, cardamom, shatavari and bilva fruit – familiar, despite not knowing the flavours, it was an instant hit.
price guide: main course and drinks per head: £ up to £25; ££ £25-£49; £££ £50+
This issue: where to eat and drink in London when you’re off the sauce
Promotion IN-formed
Lighter)
PACKING A
(
PUNCH
As more discerning drinkers add lighter drinks to their repertoire, it’s no surprise that punch is enjoying a very welcome revival. It has all the complexity of a great cocktail but being subtly lengthened makes it easy drinking like a Highball.
In a sense, this renewed popularity is bringing the punch story full circle. Dating back to the 1600s, punch is considered the precursor to the modern cocktail, with a basic recipe of five simple, core ingredients; spirit, spice, sugar, citrus and lengthener (tea or water). Although its origins are linked to English ships sailing the East and West Indies (the citrus element helping to ward off scurvy) it really took off, thanks to its sociability, with the ‘flowing bowl’ being at the centre of convivial drinks and shared stories. Now, 500 years later, it’s as social as ever. Moreover, punch can be prepared in advance making it a tasty and appealing welcome drink in bars – as well as a simple serve at home – that leaves hosts time to spend actually hosting. And because it’s just that little bit lighter in terms of strength, it keeps an evening going along very nicely. As with any classic drink it all begins with quality ingredients. Banks Rums, with their rich complexity and depth of flavour – or as historian David Wondrich likes to call it, their 'funk' – deliver the perfect base for an aromatic punch.
BANKS RUMS Banks Rums are a collection of blends using over 20 handselected rums from five regions for the Banks 5 Island Blend and seven regions for the Banks 7 Golden Blend, from across the East and West Indies, including rare Batavia Arrack rum from Java. Combined with the expertise of co-creator Jim Meehan of PDT, New York, the resulting blends deliver extraordinary layers of flavour, offering a depth and character that’s perfect for craft cocktails and delicious punch. Enjoy Banks punch at some of the UK’s best bars including Punch Room at The London Edition, The Wigmore, Kin and Panda and Sons. For more information follow Banks Rums on Instagram @BanksRums or contact Alison@BanksRums.com
ENOTRIA PUNCH The key to this punch is Banks 7 Golden Blend Rum. It lends body, richness and spice to the wine, while a spritz of peaty Scotch adds a smoky finish. Ingredients 1ltr Sancerre 500ml Banks 7 Golden Blend Rum 500ml lavender and thyme cordial 250ml lemon juice 250ml chilled water
METHOD Combine all ingredients and chill before serving. Add to a punchbowl along with a large ice block*, redcurrants and lemon wheels. Serve in punch cups filled with ice and garnish with grated nutmeg and redcurrants. Finish with a spritz of peaty Scotch whisky. *How to create a clear ice block Fill a large container with water, then wrap its sides and bottom with a cloth or napkins, leaving only the top exposed so the water freezes from the top down. When it’s frozen the cloudy impurities are pushed to the bottom and can be removed to leave a nice clear ice block. Created by Davide Segat Punch Room at The London Edition
banksrum.com Please enjoy Banks Rums responsibly
IN-formed
WORD UP...
NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TO’S
Notable nibbleS Daylesford Salted Broad Beans Broad beans – they’re fab shelled and steamed, but slightly naughtier and a helluva lot more addictive roasted in sunflower oil and salted for your delectation. Enjoy with a glass of sherry or vermouth. daylesford.com
spot the difference: non-alcoholic and alcoholic serves of 'little nipper'
Reasons to drink at… Worship Street Whistling Shop For a start, every drink on the new menu is available in both alcoholic and nonalcoholic options. Here co-owner Thomas Aske explains why: “When we opened Worship Street Whistling Shop in Shoreditch, London nearly seven years ago, what we were doing was considered forward-thinking, but it's fairly standard now. For the new menu we wanted to go back to what the bar was about at the beginning, which was Victoriana and Victorian London, which led us to look at what was going on in society and the drinking habits at that time. “Back then gin palaces were a common meeting place for people from all walks of life and we wanted to reflect that in the menu – taking inspiration from high and low society. Plus I noticed a big trend in people drinking less, if they’re drinking at all, and also that most of the low ABV
64 - The Cocktail Lovers
and non-alcoholic drinks in bars tended to come as an afterthought. It got me thinking, why shouldn’t there be a menu offering variations of both non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks? “The menu consists of 12 drinks, all available with the same flavour profile, looks and garnish. We’ve done it by working heavily on hydrosols and infusions that give near enough the same character as the spirit. For instance, we’ve created a gin-based drink from nonalcoholic hydrosols, using botanicals and water-based distillates to recreate the flavour profile, and we’ve looked at ways to add body and texture to make it feel as though you’re drinking alcohol. “The main focus of the new menu is to be completely inclusive, creating an experience for every guest, whether they’re drinking or not.” Discover the drinks at whistlingshop.com
IN-formed
ONE(S) FOR THE DRINKS CABINET
The
Cocktail
Girl
does detox
There’s nothing like a juice cleanse to get you sorted. Especially when its delivered to your door. I did a two-day beginner cleanse with Purearth and honestly, the hardest part of the whole thing was unpacking the bottles and putting them away. Before you get started, you go through a friendly consultation over the phone, during which time you’re advised on the right cleanse for you, how to prepare for the days ahead and how to transition out of it. You then agree a start date and wait for your perfectly chilled bottles to arrive. It’s easy enough to follow: just open the fridge at the allotted time, pick out the appropriate bottle and drink. That’s it. There’s plenty of variety and the bottles are big, 500ml, which is plenty to keep you from feeling deprived. For my particular cleanse I was provided with a revitalising green juice in the morning followed by an energising elixir shot, a root veg juice at lunchtime, then a nut mylk at around 3.30pm and lastly, a juice or soup depending on the season. Do you feel hungry? Just a smidge and really that’s because you think you should be rather than having a growling stomach. You do lose ”weight – 6lbs in my case – result! But the best thing is you feel clean. Ready for anything. Including a healthier relationship with alcohol which has got to be a good thing, right? purearth.co.uk
Kitchen sync
Under 20% ABV Martini Riserva Speciale Ambrato (18% ABV Just the ticket as we head into summer. Make like an Italian and enjoy over ice, lengthened with soda and a twist of lemon. Bellissimo! Over 20% ABV Tanqueray Malacca (40% ABV) Four important words for all you gin geeks out there: Tanqueray Malacca is back! For a limited time only you’ll find this muchcoveted gin in all good drinks retail outlets. Be sure to get it while you can.
world; chefs like Sat Bains and Ben Shewry have dropped their staff’s working week to four days at a huge cost to their businesses. There are other ways to inspire wellness too. We actively encourage exercise for our team. All members of staff enjoy free treatments in our spas and salons as well as heavily discounted massages to take care of any aches and pains. Healthy staff meals are provided to energise and revitalise the team for the evening ahead, as well as encouraging relationships to develop between departments. The soup recipe below is very healthy and can be made in a matter of minutes. It’s great to eat right away or to heat up on your break. Tippling Club’s Kale and Watercress Soup 500g watercress 300g kale
Joe Schofield, Head Bartender at Tippling Club in Singapore looks at sustainability in the bar
2 potatoes, extremely thinly sliced
Sustainability is a word that we’re hearing more throughout bars and restaurants globally. It’s a wonderful, growing movement with more focus on waste management to create a more environmentally friendly food or beverage.
Tarragon flowers (optional)
But what about sustainability in people? Recent studies show that the average hospitality employee stays at one job for only 2.2 years. This isn’t surprising with the long shift patterns, antisocial hours and high pressure slowly eroding motivation away.
2. Add your pre-boiled chicken stock and cover the pan for one minute.
To combat this, at Tippling Club we’ve created a culture of work/ life balance. We still have members of staff who’ve been with us since day one, which was almost 10 years ago. There are some incredibly inspiring examples of good balance in the restaurant
800ml chicken stock Method: 1. Heat some olive oil in a pan until it starts to smoke. Add in the watercress, kale and sliced potatoes.
3. Blend all the ingredients until very smooth with a Thermomix. 4. Serve and garnish with the tarragon flower petals. tipplingclub.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 65
IN-formed
WORLD GIN DAY This celebration of juniper-goodness has become so successful it’s grown into World Gin Four Days! Wherever you are on 7th-10th June, be sure to join in the celebrations. Start by checking drinkup.london for details. #worldginday
PICTURE PERFECT Things to know about Donovan Bar at Brown’s Hotel, London: 1: It’s just had a jolly smart facelift. 2. It’s been given its own separate entrance and signage. 3. The maestro Salvatore Calabrese is now running the show. Sink into one of the stylish chairs and get acquainted with the new menu, taking in Salvatore’s signature cocktails – including the Breakfast Martini, along with new creations inspired by the history of the bar, as well as an extensive list of vintage spirits. roccofortehotels.com
photograph: claire meneryfor tonica, exmouth market
Things that make us go
‘ooh!’
…big tastes in small packages. Like these dinky bottles of deliciousness from everleighbottling.com
BUY THE BOOK Batched & Bottled: Cocktails to Make Ahead
Everything you wanted to know about making complex-tasting drinks look easy. Brothers Max and Noel Venning’s beautifully photographed book guides you through over 50 tasty recipes – all divided into seasons – from the Wedding Hip Flask for portable batching to the more elaborate Paradise Martini, hero-ing okra-infused vermouth, and on to ‘Wine’ – a non-alcoholic fruit-filled concoction served from a bottle. Published by Quadrille. Available through amazon.co.uk
66 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-formed
CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH 23rd April: St. George’s Day
The
Cocktail
Girl
In pursuit of London’s coolest bars.
Something with English pride Summer Cocktail 30ml Black Cow pure milk vodka 1 scoop of blueberry sorbet 1 bottle of Perry cider Freshly picked lavender blossom Method: Scoop one portion of blueberry sorbet into a cocktail glass. Pour vodka and cider into the glass and the sorbet will rise to the rim and slowly melt with the bubbles. Garnish with the lavender blossom. Recipe by Dustin MacMillan
19th May: The Royal Wedding Something with star appeal Star Martini 50ml Star of Bombay Gin 15ml Martini Dry Vermouth 15ml fresh lime juice 1 heaped bar spoon of orange marmalade 1 whole star anise Method: Place one heaped bar spoon of orange marmalade into a cocktail shaker. Add all of the other liquid ingredients. Fill shaker with ice and shake for 15 seconds. Fine strain into a chilled Coupe Martini glass. Garnish with a whole star anise.
21st June: International Yoga Day Something floral and light Go Lightly 1 1/2 parts Cocchi Americano 1/2 part St~Germain 2 parts dry sparkling wine Lemon peel to garnish Method: Combine all ingredients except the sparkling wine in a shaker. Add ice and shake. Strain into a chilled coupe. Finish with a float of sparkling wine and garnish with lemon peel.
Bar III One bar that has perfected the ‘ease into the night’ system is newly opened Bar III in Spitalfields. From the team behind Three Sheets, it follows a similar concept; the menu map begins with alcohol ‘Free’ drinks, then moves onto Light, Medium and finally, Full. Three is the magic number here in many ways – there are a trio of libations in each category, three different styles, only three options for wine and the same for beer and cider… there’s even three stools propped at the compact curve of the bar. I start with ‘Peach’ from the Light section – the perfect initiation drink, being only 3.5% ABV. It’s delicious – a combination of fermented peach wine, soju, soda and peach. I’m usually reticent when it comes to drinks with this fruit as the main ingredient – it reminds me of peach schnapps, or the horrid synthetic taste of sugary squash. But this cocktail from Bar III is the opposite – refreshing and bursting with juicy flavours, balanced cleverly with the soju and soda, it’s a long, thirst-quenching and enjoyable with every sip. The ‘French 75’ is next – apparently one of the best sellers, and I can soon see why. At 5% it’s still light, but the mix of the Star of Bombay Gin, orange flower and verjus creates a flavour sensation. The orange flower is so delicate it plays across the tongue, and the carbonated element only adds to the flirty nature of this elegant, honey-coloured cocktail. Not drinking alcohol at all? There are three (surprise!) non-alcoholic libations to quench your thirst. The Sling is an easy-to-quaff combo of pineapple, raspberry, soda and that grown up soft drink, Seedlip, while the ‘Lemonade’ deserves a place at any table, regardless of whether you’re on the sauce or not. It’s insanely refreshing, with a curious fizz that almost captures the sensation of holding a sherbet lemon drop on your tongue. When the summer heat hits, this is one drink we’ll be continually craving. bar-three.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 67
IN-ternational
Thessaloniki Cocktails in Greece’s co-capital
The "Umbrellas" Installation, Thessaloniki
Not for nothing is Thessaloniki known in Greece as the cocapital. It’s a reference to its historical importance alongside Athens, but it has a laid-back style that’s absolutely its own – with super delicious local ingredients and outstanding hospitality at the heart of the whole experience. These same elements are also at the heart of the city’s burgeoning bar scene. Ranging from smart to informal, here are a few of our favourites…
68 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-ternational
Gorilla
3 Veroias Str., Thessaloniki 546 25
Vogatsikou 3
3 Vogatsikou, Thessaloniki 546 22
‘Fine Drinking & Fun’ is the simple idea behind Gorilla. It’s quite literally inscribed on the windows and shines out in neon from behind the bar. Having an idea, though, is one thing, delivering it is another. Like a well-balanced cocktail, that’s exactly what the team here have achieved. The idea of delivering quality with a smile is right there in every drink. You could decant any of the ones we tried into a regular glass and be happy to have them served to you in a five-star hotel. Why opt for ordinary glasses though, when you can enjoy your drinks in a neat ceramic banana or gorilla (naturally). These aren’t tiki but original pieces designed by the bar and commissioned from a local 70-year-old potter (we suspect it’s one of the more fun briefs she’s had). To make it onto the menu the drinks also have to pass another test. Can guests hold them and still dance? Yes, this is a genuine test, so no cumbersome vessels or elaborate garnishes. And music is as essential as the drinks themselves. Going beyond the normal bar DJ, a key member of the team is responsible for creating bespoke soundtracks for different times, days and moods.
As for the gorilla himself, he’s described as a big guy but a fun one. You’ll see his face, complete with monocle, in countless photos on the walls hanging out with world leaders, actors and musicians. He also crops up in some of the cocktails. Our favourite was the American Dream (rye whiskey, Amaretto, botanical cola syrup, lemon juice, sour cherry cordial, aromatic bitters and aquafaba). Smooth, intense and we didn’t spill a drop on the dance floor. If you want a really good time, with a friendly vibe and the best music, but don’t want to compromise on your drinks then Gorilla Bar is absolutely your place. Oh, and they’re open for breakfast too serving the most decadent blueberry pancakes ever.
Stepping into Vogatsikou 3 makes you feel just that little bit smarter. It’s quite small with an intimate bar and quiet mezzanine area. The design is simple, sophisticated and attracts a crowd who either know their way around a cocktail list or are happy to experiment a little. And that’s where the Cocktail Ambassador menu comes in. The pages are described as being “filled with love, passion, experience, travels, history, fashion, old school vibes, modern trends, hospitality, creation, entertainment, pursuit, research, communication and the smile of the people who have created it”. Or as we would say, it’s about going on a rather enjoyable journey, one where you play safe or go adventurous. And as it’s broken down by spirit type, it allows drinkers to start with something familiar like the Mint Daiquiri (Havana Seleccion de Maestros, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup and fresh mint) before trying a Dye-Ker-Ree (Rum Anejo, tomato and strawberry shrub, yuzu juice and sugar syrup). Both of which were excellent. Also testament to their dedication to their craft is the house view on smoking. They’re certainly no killjoys but in a city where smoking is common to say the least, Vogatsikou 3 has opted to ban it. The reason simply being that they want their guests to fully appreciate the aroma and taste of what they’re drinking (there’s a neat courtyard area if the nicotine is calling). With its easy style and entertaining menu, this place has romantic evening written all over it.
The Cocktail Lovers - 69
Left and top centre: Tribeca; bottom centre: Cin Cin; top right: Gorilla; bottom right: Vogatsikou 3.
Tribeca
The Blue Cup / Speakeasy Bar
You want a bar with a view? Tribeca’s got one that’s big, bright and darned beautiful. Sit anywhere in this place and you’re blessed with being able to gaze way, way out to sea.
Two very different venues in one (three if you count the downstairs areas serving excellent coffee during the day).
Leof. Nikis 19, Thessaloniki 546 23
The whole place was completely rebuilt in 2010 and it’s been done with a praiseworthy attention to detail. There’s a wonderfully long bar, the kind that makes you want to stick around, and plenty of tables. The really clever bit though is the layout of the space – it’s reminiscent of the different levels in a theatre, ensuring you’re never deprived of that view.
Salaminos 8, Thessaloniki 546 25
The Blue Cup has been around since 2013 and, as its name suggests, it started life as a rather nice cafe. As afternoon turns into evening and the lights go down, it comes into its own as a fully fledged bar. It has an appealing bustling vibe and the crowd tends to be small groups enjoying good times, small plates and fun cocktails.
Tear yourself away from the panoramic seascape for a while, turn your attention to the drinks and you’ll be equally well-rewarded. Presented in an elegant restaurant sort of way, they deliver similarly cuisinelike rich flavours. Along with the care that goes into their creation, it’s also the use of Greek ingredients that’s key. Take the Bloody Mary: yes, everyone has their favourite way of enjoying it, but put all that aside and order one here. They’ve not opted to give their version a clever variation on the name, but it’s a wholly individual take on the classic. There are some lovely touches such as the crispy prosciutto served on the side and the light mist of truffle spray, while the rim of the glass has a dusting of Crete sea salt. It was exquisite. We visited during the day but we’ll be heading back for a long evening, delicious cocktail in hand, to enjoy a slowly setting sun.
70 - The Cocktail Lovers
Although not an out and out tiki bar, the menu has a definite leaning that way both in design and content with the likes of Tiki-Riki-Miki (Pampero rum blend, velvet falernum liqueur, lime oleo saccharin, fresh pineapple, homemade ginger and honey syrup and aromatic bitters) setting the tone. We particularly liked the slightly more restrained Show Me The Money (cold brewed coffee barrel-aged in oak, Suze aperitif liqueur, Amaro Montenegro and sweet rosso vermouth). Given
IN-ternational
the venue’s heritage they certainly delivered with a good balance between the coffee and the alcoholic ingredients for a nice end-of-evening kind of drink. We weren’t ending the evening though, just heading upstairs. Despite its name, its location is anything but a secret, with a helpful neon sign directing you towards the staircase. And despite its proximity to the Blue Cup – and the fact that it’s owned by the same husband and wife team – the Speakeasy Bar is an altogether different offering. Go through the door, leave the hubbub of the ground floor bar behind and step into another world.
Cin Cin
Iktinou 22, Thessaloniki 546 22 Cin Cin isn’t the easiest place to find as it occupies an old mansion, once the home of a very wealthy family, but it’s worth the effort as the atmosphere of the original home has been lovingly preserved. It’s cosy but cool, like your hip aunty’s house.
This is more about old-style classic design for both the space itself and the menu. An elegant central bar dominates the area and the lighting is low. Guests here are more likely to seek it out as a destination and dress up for the occasion. As for the drinks, they’re just right for something a little more serious that’s still guaranteed to put a smile on your face. And that’s exactly what the Speakeasy Martini (Tanqueray No. TEN, mastiha spirit, chamomile and plum bitters) did in delicious fashion.
Given the homely look and feel, there’s no central bar area as such. Instead, seek out a large sofa or comfy armchair and make yourself at home. Once attentive staff have taken your order, a bartender will shortly return with a well-stocked trolley. Your drinks are then prepared right in front of you. It makes for nice theatre too, particularly if you like to see your cocktails shaken with a dramatic flourish (it turned out our bartender is also an actor). It’s not style over substance though. Our Bitter Spring (aged rum, Pimm’s No 1, apricot brandy, mint bitters, chocolate bitters and fresh grapefruit) was a very grownup kind of drink. Easy on the eye with a long, thin slither of cucumber garnish, full of very well-balanced flavour and absolutely begging to be ordered again.
The Cocktail Lovers - 71
Refresh with a non-alcoholic Chilli and Lime Margarita Serves 1
150ml freshly squeezed lime juice 50ml chilli-infused syrup 25ml fresh orange juice 3 thinly sliced limes Fine sea salt Wedge of lime Crushed ice slices of lime to garnish
Method
Combine the lime juice, chilli syrup, orange juice and sliced limes in a large jug and allow to stand for 10 minutes. Pour some salt on plate, slide the wedge of lime around the rim of your glass and then dip the glass in the salt. Fill with the Margarita and ice, and serve garnished with slices of lime. Recipe taken from Dry by Clare Liardet. Published by penguinrandomhouse.co.uk
Interviews News Features Fashion Food Travel Recipes & a whole lot more The Cocktail Lovers magazine, ingredients for more than just great drinks
Packed full of cocktail-loving goodness, The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published four times a year in glorious print. What’s more, it’s free so when you subscribe you just pay for postage and handling. Subscribe today and get every issue delivered to your door!
For more details and to start your subscription, visit TCLsubs.com