The Cutthroat Journal Issue #17 by The Cutthroat Journal

M e n ' s

c u l t u r e // B A R B E R

$14.95 AUD $16.95 NZD

ISSUE #seventeen 2019

T R A D E

J O U R N A L

T HE G I F T TH AT KEEPS O N GI VI NG

Online gift cards, sold directly from your website - simple. SH O RTCU TS. CO M. AU

PUBLISHER / EDITOR Sean Edwards sean@thecutthroatjournal.com

SALES MANAGER Robert Marlowe rob.marlowe@thecutthroatjournal.com +61 404 837 608

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Abbey Hannan abbey@thecutthroatjournal.com

CHIEF DESIGNER Boni Lornie boni@thecutthroatjournal.com

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Kathryn Kraska

MEDIA info@thecutthroatjournal.com

COVER PHOTO

www.mulgatheartist.com.au

CONTRIBUTION Jimmy Rods Dan Dixon Sandy Chong David Morton Clea Harbison Jeremy Wall Tilly Edwards Maya Thevar S T A Y

C O N N E C T E D

No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by Cutthroat and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of the Cutthroat Journal, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this journal by individuals and the Cutthroat Journal are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. The Cutthroat Journal takes no responsibility for any action taken by others as a result of the content of this site.

out'n'about PUBLISHER NOTE WITH SEAN EDWARDS THERE GOES ANOTHER YEAR! I AM SURE THE OLDER YOU BECOME THE QUICKER THE YEARS FLY PAST, OR IS IT WE GET BUSIER AS WE AGE. The team at Cutthroat Journal also have been very busy this year and completed many events and visited hundreds of Barbers and suppliers around the world. We were very Pleased with Barber Brands Barber of the Year competition that was held in Brisbane as part of Barber Expo. Next year we will run three new heats in Auckland at Meatstock in February and in June we will run Barber Expo at Smoked Garage in Brisbane and in July we will run the finals of Barber of the Year in Sydney at the Marrickville Townhall. Stay tuned for locked in dates and program. If you supply the Barber industry with products and services start contacting our team now as expo space and speaking session sponsorship will be premium. We are pleased to welcome on board our new Cutthroat Journal graphic designer Abbey Hannan. Abbey has been an intern with our business whilst she completed her graphic design degree in Sydney. Abbey loves art and drawing so we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to see some of her creations in our upcoming 2020 journals. I would like to personally thank all the contributors who have helped keep the Cutthroat Journal real and alive, especially when magazines are closing down all over the world. We also would like to thank the subscribers that keep renewing their subscriptions annually and we will strive to keep the magazine fun and educational for the industry with content and design. I have traveled a lot this year and asked Barbers what they would like to read about and how we can help them grow their businesses with our communication. Still they see the main issues being topics like staffing, poaching of good barbers

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from competition, booking systems that work for Barber Shops and charging the right prices for the right service. We also have seen new trends in sustainable barber practices, full time employment verses casual/chair hire and more women hairdressers switching over to barbering because they see more scope in their careers and like the cool space. There is one smart concept I keep seeing in my travels-multi use barber shops. I have seen some great mixed businesses in barbershops like bars, cafes, record stores, event spaces, salons and even a hardware store within a barbershop. Multi use businesses are great if they are run right, as they make full use of the whole rental time and often two businesses will complement each other if they have good partnerships and synergy. If you want to run this type of concept, often you may need to check with council with zoning also your landlord for sublease arrangements. Multi use sites do work if the plan is good and working agreements are in place with both parties as it's all about sharing like common entrances, power and water and often customers. Often businesses will fall into conflict if boundaries are crossed too many times, so a working agreement and good communication with a formal planning meeting is advised. I would like to wish all our readers are a great New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, stay safe, stay happy, refresh and enjoy your family and friends over summer breaks. Sean Edwards .

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masterful

| ˈma stǝfʊl, ˈma stǝf(ǝ)l, |

adjective performed or performing very skilfully: a masterful assessment of the difficulties. verb in a very skilful manner: a masterfully crafted wax.

Jax Wax Australia’s Daintree Blackbean range is a unisex wax which is ideal for strong, stubborn multi-directional hair that is suitable for every body. The Daintree Blackbean Wax range consists of beaded hot wax and a strip wax that contains pure Cedarwood essential oil and is scented with Sandalwood to appeal to the most discerning male. The wax range also is complemented with an After Wax Body Lotion that is enriched with Organic Hemp and Argan Oils and contains pure cocoa butter to support skin hydration.

“We will be using Jax Wax for many, many years to come it will be a staple in our Barbershop. And our customers love it!”

- Bruce Hathcock,

Legends Barbers

For more information call 03 5943 2422 or visit 6

www.jaxwaxaustralia.com

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DAVID MORTON

SANDY CHONG

Barber Brands International

CEO - AHC

JIMMY RODS

DAN DIXON

Jimmy Rod's Barber Shops

The master behind Mister Chop Shop

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CONTRIBUTORS

contributors

Bleeding Edge — Barber Brands

TRENDS

INDUSTRY

INSIDE

Position Vacant — Editorial 14

Hot Topics — Editorial 33

Barber Banter — Editorial 18

Male Grooming — Advertorial

20 Sniff Test — Product Reviews

Business End — Product Feature

Shortcuts — Advertorial 22 Write - Up — Barber Reviews 24

What's New — New Product

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Top 10 Barbers to Follow — Social Media

EVENTS

FEATURES

INSIDE

HalfCut — Feature Article 42

The Barber Expo 2019 — Article

Project 100 — Feature Article

Beards a 'Plenty — Article

American BBQ Tour — Feature Article

Barber of the Year — Article

Bearskin — Feature Advertorial

FEIBI — Article

BMOTSC — Feature Article 60 iCandy — Product Feature 62 Behind the Chair — Feature Article

Uppercut — Ambassador 66 68

The End is Nigh — Feature Article

EAT

CULTURE

Big Man Beard — Feature Article

Mulga the Artist — Artist 86

Meatstock — A rticle 100

Hot Stuff — Product Features

Red Gum BBQ — A rticle 102

Loser — Music 94 Scuffs — Music 96 Maddison Darcey — Tattoo Artist

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BLEEDING

EDGE

RBR WWW.BARBE

ANDS.COM.

S T A G S U P P LY

O’DOUDS COFFEE SCRUB AU Dig in! But do not ingest. This coffee scrub aims to exfoliate and revitalise any dry, cracked, or rough skin. This scrub will have you wanting to dig in with a spoon (don’t do it!) and will leave your skin the softest you’ve ever felt.

GAME TIME BEARD BALM Might not help you hoop but it’ll step up your beard game. This Game Time Beard Balm is an awesome collab with NBA’s best, Aron Baynes. Its scent will have you smelling good all day and the balm will hold your beard in place while also moisturising.

BOSSMAN

BEARD POMADE A beard Pomade didn’t exist till Bossman created it! Bossman’s Beard Pomade gives the moisture your beard needs, but it also adds weight, control, and hold. Tame the flyaways and look like a Boss.

BOSSMAN

ROUND BOAR & NYLON BRISTLE BRUSH Detangling bristles that help to seal split ends, prevent hair breakage and reduce frizz. The round style brush is designed to help straighten beards while blow-drying too!

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LIGHTWORK POMADE We’re going apeshit for these new pomades! Ideal for weightless texture and movement. Light to medium hold that can be re-worked. The perfect choice for a more natural look or matte finish.

BLEEDING EDGE PRODUCT REVIEWS

SLICK GORILLA

SLICK GORILLA CLAY POMADE Separates, defines and molds hair to deliver a strong, pliable all-day hold. Designed to add instant texture for an effortlessly sharp look.

CAVALRY MATTE The all rounder pomade is formulated to give a medium hold and a natural matte ﬁnish. Appropriate for all hair types and lengths - Cavalry Matte Pomade can be worked to achieve any style. CLAY WAX This ultimate pomade for a strong hold, low shine and unbeatable texture. Cavalry Clay Wax gives lift and volume to thin hair, and can be worked through the hair for a messy, long lasting, textured style.

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BLEEDING

EDGE

WWW.BARBE

18.21 DEODORANT

M.AU BRANDS.CO

Summer is comingâ&#x20AC;Ś That means BO season is too. Experience a manly aroma while enjoying this odour neutralising, premium deodorant. This custom crafted gel stick is free from aluminium, alcohol and baking soda. Pair it with their awesome 3 in 1 wash!

PA C I F I C CANNABIS FRAGRANCE Take a trip to LA This fragrance is inspired by the late nights spent at the Venice Boardwalk. It has top notes of pink pepper, rosemary and bergamot. A tempered cannabis accord at the heart is balanced with lavender and sage.

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BLEEDING EDGE PRODUCT REVIEWS

C A PTA I N FA W C E T T ' S E A U D E PA R F U M B A R B E R I S M E A U D E PA R F U M BY SID SOTTUNG Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no cruelty here, just a dope Parfum. A timeless and yet refreshingly elegant scent boasting top notes of Lime and Orange, mid notes of Rose and Galbanum, along with the earthier base notes of Cedarwood, Patchouli and Musk. It. Is. Amazing.

T R I U M P H A N T E A U D E PA R F U M BY RUFUS HOUND A victorious parfum. A collab with the Rufus Hound has resulted in this splendid Eau De Parfum. A delightful fragrance reminiscent of the balmy days of Spring.

ICANDY

AT H E N A S C I SS O RS Original style! The iCandy Athena Scissor Series, launched in 2012, has fast become one of the most popular Barbering Scissors. iCandy's innovative ergonomically designed handle fits like a natural extension of your hand. Each scissor is fitted with a unique ball bearing hinge system to reduce friction within the movement. The result is an effortless smooth cutting experience allowing you to feel more comfortable while performing at your best. Available in sizes 6.0, 6.5 & 7.0 as well as three thinning or texturising scissors giving you the same comfort and control whether cutting or adding texture.

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position vacant. BY AHC CEO, SANDY CHONG

TOPCOOLS-TEE @UNSPLASH.COM

WHY IS IT THAT THE BARBER INDUSTRY IS FINDING IT SO HARD TO GET A QUALIFIED BARBER TO RESPOND TO A RECRUITMENT AD?

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INDUSTRY | SANDY CHONG - AHC CEO

The following is part of a submission that has been sent to a number of Government Departments. The point of this submission is to allow international barbers to have access to working in our country for a minimum of 4 years. If you find it hard to get a response to ads for recruiting barbers, I really need case studies to take to the Minister of Immigration and Home Affairs. A case study simply shows how many times you have advertised, how much it cost you and what responses you received. If you are interested in contributing to this submission please contact me via ceo@ theahc.org.au. INDUSTRY SUBMISSION The Australian Hairdressing Council (AHC) is the national voice that connects hairdressing/barber professionals, educators and suppliers. It exists to ensure a sustainable and positive future for our industries. Since 2010 the AHC has set ethical business standards for salon and registered training organisations (RTOs) members and represents the professional hairdressing, barber and beauty industry nationally. In making this submission the AHC consulted with the hairdressing and barber industry to gather evidence to support the difficulties that the hairdressing and barber industry is experiencing with respect of recruiting and retaining workers and reliance on overseas workers to fill this skills shortage.

We have also consulted with the Australian Taxation Office and the Treasury over the concerns of the industry’s contribution to the black economy. The hairdressing and barber industry make a substantial contribution to the nation’s economy by accounting for over $3 billion in hairdressing and barber services and retail sales in excess of $350 million. As the barber industry is recognised internationally, overseas barbers have much to offer the Australian market in regard to skills, inspiration, training and education. KEY POINTS • The Department of Home Affairs has implemented reforms to Australia’s temporary skilled migration program including the abolition and replacement of the 457 visa and the permanent employer sponsored skilled migration program. • AHC members have raised concerns with respect to the extreme difficulty in recruiting and retaining Australian workers and therefore a greater reliance on employing overseas workers to maintain the viability of their business. • The Temporary (Skilled) subclass 457 visa has previously been used successfully by the hairdressing and barber industry.

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ANOTHER INDUSTRY CONCERN IS THE LACK OF APPRENTICE COMMENCEMENTS IN BARBERING. WITHOUT EXPERIENCED SENIOR BARBERS EMPLOYED, THIS RESTRICTS THE NUMBER OF APPRENTICES A BUSINESS CAN INDENTURE AS THE RATIO MUST BE ONE TO ONE, QUALIFIED STYLIST TO APPRENTICE. "

PURPOSE OF THIS SUBMISSION & INDUSTRY FINDINGS The current Visa 482 is not suitable to the Barber Industry. The Industry is currently on the Short Term Skilled Occupation list. The following submission will clearly show the need for Barbering to be on the Medium and Long Skilled Strategic list with a pathway to residency. The Australian Hairdressing Council has sent numerous case studies and requests to the Department of Immigration and Citizenship with no response. Why? As a consequence, the AHC has continued to seek additional feedback and comments from the industry on the difficulty business owners are facing in sourcing and retaining labour and what changes they would recommend to reduce this problem. The AHC and its members in the hairdressing and barber industry recognise that the ideal situation is to employ Australian workers. However, this is not easy in our industry as 90% of their workers are female. As this is a female dominated industry then the majority of the industry result in part time employment due to family commitments. International and qualified workers assist in filling a very real shortage of qualified, full time hairdressers and barbers. The industry has also suffered significantly from declining apprentice numbers over the last decade. Apprentice commencements in hairdressing and barbering have declined by almost half since 2010. Coupled with a high non-completion rate for apprentices in both industries, the flow through of new entrants into the sector has struggled to meet the demand for workers. The industry environment is currently alarming. As the ATO does not separate Hairdressing, Barber & Beauty, the ABNs registered as active is 106,716. In hairdressing and barbering

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there are approximately only 13,000 shopfronts. The ATO has currently recorded 34,335 taxable returns in hairdressing and 4,302 barbers. The average wage for a female worker is $32,066 and male is $38,824. The ATO show only 38,637 workers in total for 13,000 shopfronts. This equates to only 3 workers per business, the majority of these are part time. These stats include apprentices. The hairdressing and barber industry currently contributes to the black economy and the above figures show our concerns. The ATO report to the AHC, show over 65,656 ABNs not registered for GST. 54,640 ABNs are considered high risk in contributing to the black economy. These are considered as a cottage industry working at home avoiding tax obligations. Sponsorships in our industry are from business applicants who show ethical business practices and comply with transparent income records to honour the sponsorship requirements. Barbering businesses simply cannot attract staff and will exhaust advertising avenues at a huge business cost and stress. The result is not only a financial stress on any business, but also inhibits growth in the barber industry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Poachingâ&#x20AC;? staff from other businesses becomes a pattern which only results in another business being under staffed and under stress. Another industry concern is the lack of apprentice commencements in barbering. Without experienced senior barbers employed, this restricts the number of apprentices a business can indenture as the ratio must be one to one, qualified stylist to apprentice. This again puts an enormous stress on a business and has contributed to a low 28% completion rate of apprentices as businesses cannot spend time training with not enough skilled qualified staff working.

HOW CAN OVERSEAS WORKERS ASSIST AND GROW BUSINESS

Potential employers will spend thousands of dollars advertising on every platform and board available in the hope to attract any worker.

a. International barbers come with a higher commitment for full time employment. The cost of the application for sponsorship is approximately $7,500.

The following are reasons why there are no stylists/barbers available.

b. Barber shop owners also have a higher commitment in ensuring the employment is productive due to the higher wages on Visa workers, averaging from $55,000 - $65,000 base wage, plus all other costs related to Visa applications, including onerous paperwork and time.

a. 90% of the industry are female. Family commitments result in qualified stylists can often only work part time. b. With a 28% completion of apprenticeships, working qualified stylists/barbers are more mature and so have family obligations.

INDUSTRY | SANDY CHONG - AHC CEO

REASONS WHY QUALIFIED STAFF ARE NOT RESPONDING TO ADVERTISEMENTS

c. Qualified barbers are more often trainers/educators in the business, bringing international skills and experience.

c. A majority of the qualified stylists and barbers in Australia do not have the skills, experience and are simply not competent or capable to work in a business and will work at home, more often in a “backyard” arrangement, taking cash for services. The concern here is not just the contribution to the black economy but also the lack of investment in future apprentices as well as concerns for consumer safety.

d. Employing more senior qualified barbers allows a business owner to recruit apprentices and invest in the sustainability and future of their business.

d. “Rent A Chair” arrangements have increased from 2,200 to 6,600 in 12 months. To avoid registering for GST these contractors do not take on apprentices and so do not contribute to a future skilled workforce. Renting chairs, choosing to be self-employed is becoming more prevalent in the industry.

f. Small business growth is currently at a standstill without the ability to employ capable, skilled and qualified staff.

e. Businesses employing Visa workers are more transparent with wage records and so must be compliant and not contribute to the black economy.

SUMMARY

e. Industry suite arrangements have been surfacing where an individual stylist can rent a small space amongst other businesses, working on their own.

Barber businesses are desperate to employ staff. There is a very real shortage of skilled operators in our Industry. This industry could potentially experience real growth and investment in the economy, apprenticeships, education and training and in business.

f. Qualified barbers simply want to work less and less hours. It is difficult to find any willing full time workers.

Find out more at www.theahc.org.au or call (02) 4929 6098.

g. There is too much competition between businesses all vying for the same employee.

vacant h. The number of qualified, experienced and capable barbers have become diluted as a result of an education system that has produced qualified but unemployable barbers, many of these are working within the black economy.

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barber banter

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WITH JIMMY RODS EDUCATION | TRAINING

WHAT DO WE FOCUS ON AS A BUSINESS? As we draw the year to a close and finalise our newest store which has just opened at Chermside, I am constantly reminded of the importance of education and training. Without these two elements of our business we would not be able to do what we do. Apprentices that we began training only a few months ago will be ready to get up and cutting by Christmas which takes the pressure off the other staff during our busiest time of the year. The importance of bringing up a barber from scratch within the company is second to none, we don’t like to hire what we call “jumpers”. These are barbers that are known for jumping from store to store or company to company whenever they feel like a change and are not a solid investment for us. A lot of people ask me if I struggle to find staff for the large number of stores we have, but to be honest – building your own apprentices from start to finish is the key to success. They are much more invested and likely to stay on and become a great part of our company if we build them from the ground up. A smart barber will move up the ranks in their company, going above and beyond to take that higher position. Taking a management position or even moving up eventually to an Area or Operations manager. Some of our very own barbers who started with me years ago are helping me run the company right now because they put in the time and are now an integral part of our brand.

If every barbershop in Australia put on one apprentice, in the next few years we would have thousands of qualified barbers entering the workspace. Put time into your team, build respect with your staff and they will put time and effort into your company.

INDUSTRY | BARBER BANTER

BARBER BANTER

WHAT ARE WE DOING TO HELP? In the new year of 2020, Jimmy Rods will be launching its very own 16-week fast track course for training fresh apprentices. Numbers are yet to be finalised but we have nearly already filled our first intake for the new year. We have the team from Matters in Grey coming on board to partner up with us and we will be operating out of our training store in Woolloongabba. Barbers are constantly being poached from stores and it’s affecting the industry as a whole, ruining relationships between businesses and barbers alike. This fast track course taught by barbers who have been in the game for a long time will give apprentices the chance to get in, learn a lot and make a decision after their course is completed to move on to a shop of their choosing, without disrupting a barbershop who has already put in time with them if they decide to move on before they complete that full apprenticeship. Sandy Chong (AHC CEO) had an amazing contribution to this in a previous Cutthroat edition where she said “ Don’t poach barbers from a shop that has invested time, money and energy in building up their barber’s skills and clientele. Create an environment and culture where all employees are paid correctly and completely by the books! “ Do your own training, focus on those apprentices and they will reward you with loyalty and hard work. Jimmy Rods

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old school meets new school [THE BUSINESS END] WITH DAN DIXON @MISTERDANDIXON

Now I could start this off with a joke about Culture being the green stuff that grows on top of yoghurt left in the fridge too long but that would be a dad joke and start me off a bit prehistoric. Culture is a word popping up more and more nowadays and one that I personally have had my fair share of dealings with it as a boss and multiple shop owner. What is it about this word and why has it become such a driving force in business? Each and every industry is moving with this idea and adapting it to a new workforce. Offices are running fully catered kitchens, whilst workers are being given options to have ‘work from home days’ or ‘mental health days’. It’s hard to adapt the above options to a barbershop but let’s ask the question… How has culture affected the world of working with hair? Let's first start by stepping back. Most shop owners I know have come from an era where culture was team or shop based and employment carried a greater appreciation. Bosses kept their operations to themselves and ran a strict ship of do’s and don’ts. Step out of line and you’d be off to the dole office (now Centrelink) and no one wanted that as our industry had massive job shortages. Appreciation from the boss came in the form of a regular paycheck and the occasional pat on the back. Yes this was heavy-handed but it developed a respect that filtered down to every teammate. Everyone was content and tight, keeping each other in check whilst powering through the day. You had a Xmas party every year and the occasional end of week beer, that was it. Training was on personal time (on top of the 50-60 hour week you were working) and no model no training no training no job was the ethos. You worked for your shop and were proud to tell the world.

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Industry notoriety came when the boss said so with opportunities coming from their connections, which meant proving yourself with plenty of ‘up and beyond’. If the boss offered something, you leapt at it with vigor and excitement. Advice was deeply respected and every word was hung off. No phones, no internet and there was no distraction from your work. Fast forward and things are now a lot different. Social Media and connectivity have converted the industry and grown people’s profile abilities to great strengths, creating a self-expressive workforce. The boss’s role has now changed and the old dog’s tricks are a tad lackluster. The employee now has an ability to demand more from the boss. More pay, less hours, days of choice with minimum restrictions and in some cases with less performance required. In a lot of ways, the shop has become a tool or vessel for self focus and development with minimal thought for the business. Social posts seem to forget the shop, the team, the product, the support and ‘online’ has become the new teacher with valued client lists disappearing into personal ‘friends’ lists. More perks, less lurks and there it is – The New Culture.

INDUSTRY | BUSINESS END

Given the above, the question is, how do you use culture to keep this new workforce engaged with their team and committed to your business when it may appear that everyone is working for themselves and their own self-gratification. In my view, Culture comes back to team. There is no ‘I’ in team and the stronger your team is the better your culture will be. This ideal, similar to the defence forces, protects countries so I’m confident it can drive a business to success. A focus on group activities such as drinks, dinners, fun activities whilst reminding everyone they are part of a team. Coach everyone on working together with new staff learning from the more experienced in the shop, shared learnings and understanding the value in their role and how it fits into the operation. Weekly huddles and monthly meetings help solidify all of this. I strongly believe that the shop works as a cycle. Juniors rely on seniors to teach and direct them whilst seniors need juniors to support and assist to increase their revenue. It all works hand in hand. The ‘old’ understanding the ‘new’ is AS important as the new understanding the old when it comes to creating culture within a workplace. Your boss isn’t an asshole. They’re just trying to adapt and run a business while keeping everyone happy. Your employees aren’t ripping you either. They’re just doing what workforce evolution has shown them to do for self-preservation. We all need each other and the industry needs all of us.

ILLUSTRATION: <a href="https://www.freepik.com/free-photos-vectors/vintage">Vintage vector created by vectorpocket - www.freepik.com</a>

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the top numbers you need to keep your staff on target IN THIS DAY AND AGE, BARBERSHOP OWNERS HAVE ACCESS TO A SEEMINGLY BOTTOMLESS WELL OF INFORMATION AND DATA RELATING TO THEIR BUSINESS. FROM HOW YOUR WEBSITE IS PERFORMING, TO RETAIL SALES DATA, AND STAFF EFFICIENCY AND CLIENT VISIT DATA, IT CAN BE EASY TO FEEL OVERWHELMED BY THE SHEER VOLUME OF INFORMATION.

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INDUSTRY | SHORTCUTS

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WRITE-UP ANOTHER MAN BARBER & SHOP BY AMLETO MARIANI FOR THE MARIANI’S, BARBERING IS NOT JUST THE ART OF CUTTING HAIR, IT'S MAKING EVERY CUSTOMER LOOK FRESH AND BELLISSIMO. For over 70 years, and across three generations, the Mariani Family have been barbers in Italy. Amleto senior, is 84 and still working back in Abruzzo, his son, Cesare is a master hairdresser, and his son Amleto junior, has brought the fine art of grooming and barbering, Italian style to Caulfield Junction, with Another Man, Barber & Shop. Amleto Mariani is a barber extraordinare, and has been in and around barbering all his life. Another Man represents a new start for the Mariani family, with an Australian salon that promises to warmly welcome every man, regardless of age and position. At our salon, you will be treated like a king and leave feeling like another man. As Nonno says; ‘Rovinato Caro’… See you soon! OUR MOTTO The Mariani's believe that barbering is not just cutting hair. At Another Man, you will be warmly welcomed, be pampered, and leave feeling like ANOTHER MAN.

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162 HAWTHORN RD MELBOURNE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA 3161 ANOTHERMANBARBER.COM

INDUSTRY | REVIEWS

THE FADE DOCTOR BY ARMIN EBRAHIMI FAR GET FADED! You havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen anything like this Urban barbershop before. When they speak of quality 5 star haircuts, be sure that the Fade Doctor Barbershop will be mentioned in the same sentence! Perth based qualified barber specializing in all aspects of barbering & male grooming. W.A Multiple Award Winning & Certified barber. At the Fade Doctor Barbershop, we have created a very lively and friendly atmosphere for all our customers to feel at ease while fulfilling their desired style and needs. Come and enjoy the great experience with our excellent and highly motivated team in this unique barbershop.

3/77 WANNEROO ROAD TUART HILL PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA 6060 W W W .T H E F A D E D O C T O R . C O M . A U

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WRITE-UP

DEATHWISH BY JIMMY KYLE “Jared’s been doing yoga and meditating!” sings out Jake Dargaville, owner of Deathwish Barber and Coffee Co. Not exactly the news I expected to hear about my tattooed covered bushy mustachio Barber, but dope none the less. As the amateur golfing enthusiast and Head-Barber Jared and I laughed and compared our dusty weekend antics - my gym regime to prevent man boobs, followed by some much needed empathy on how my receding hairline has “…a few more good years left mate”, I’m presented with an A-Grade Oat milk latte from long-time friend and Deathwish visionary Jake, who's quick to join the self-deprecating laughs. Great coffee and a slick cut! It’s a great way to start the day. Come noon the array of Young Henry’s in the fridge is up for grabs! Melbourne’s rising inner west has seen some trendy bars, night spots and cafes peppered amongst its long established, predominantly Vietnamese and Chinese eating scene. A step away from the trendiness is the timeless approach of Deathwish. Situated in West Footscray, the old school traditional barbershop offers a welcomed approached on the values and skills that have underpinned the trade. Deathwish specialises in a range of classic grooming techniques: skin fades, cut throats, tapers, while also offering the highly addictive (and indulgent) ‘Deathwish Hot Towel Service’! This is definitely my happy place, but really it’s the intimate atmosphere and yarns I dig most - I feel at home under the massive scythe which hangs foreboding on the wall, reminding me I only live once, so make it great and treat myself and get the hot towel!

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Deathwish is open to everyone, it’s clear Barbers Jared, Rainer and Sajeel want you to enjoy yourself and feel welcomed in like an old friend, without the pretentiousness that’s too exhausting to be around. The carefully selected crew at Deathwish view their work as a craft, offering outstanding services tailored for new clients while catching up and checking in with existing clients. Deathwish is the creative vision of professional photographer and musician Jake Dargaville. Drumming for Hardcore outfit Confession and Folk-Punk performer Chasing Ghosts, has seen Jake touring both nationally and abroad while shooting large events such as The Rites of Passage Tattoo Festivals when home. In contrast to these moments Jake spent many years working in construction as a highly skilled heavy machinery operator and often listened to other people backstage at a show or on the work site about the struggles we all face. The physical toll of operating heavy machines forced Jake to consider a new venture but one that now aimed to make a difference for others. “We hold mental health very close to us here at Deathwish. I believe all people should be checking up on their mental health as often as they're getting a haircut. Individuals visit barber shops on average ten times a year, this gives us ten opportunities for checking in and having an empowered conversation” says Jake. Deathwish isn’t just another trendy barber shop, it’s a place where folks can come together, socialise over a coffee or cold beer, and support local artists at one of their live music days or charity events. For me the affordable prices on high quality cuts aren’t the draw, it’s the timeless value of authentic conversation with a big hearted barber that Deathwish have bought back to life, and that’s something money can’t buy.

INDUSTRY | REVIEWS 1/30 ASHLEY STREET WEST FOOTSCRAY MELBOURNE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA 3012 D E A T H W I S H B A R B E R C O . G E T T I M E LY. C O M

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEATHWISH VISUALS the cutthroat journal

WRITE-UP BIKINI BARBER BABES BY DEE CLANCY BBB (Bikini Barber Babes) is a modern barber Shop in Surfers Paradise where you can sit down, relax and enjoy a beer while getting your haircut with one of our lovely bikini barber girls. Located in Surfers Paradise one of the main tourist points on the Gold Coast, we aim to welcome all ages and offer ladies cuts, with two of our barbers that have started in the hairdressing industry, and moved over into the barbering world. With that we have incorporated our scissor skill and all things hairdressing, with our new knowledge of cutthroat and clipper work. The owner and creator of BBB Matthew turner is 22 years old. He moved to the Gold Coast from Townsville about 2 years ago for spinal cord rehabilitation purposes and trains down at Burleigh heads, at a place called Making Strides. Matthew opened this unique barber shop on his 21st Birthday in May 2018 after moving to the goldcoast after wanting to start a business.

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SHOP40/3-15 ORCHID AVE, SURFERS PA R A D I S E Q L D 4 2 1 7 . S O U L B O A R D W A L K . HTTPS://WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BIKINIB A R B E R B A B E SS U R F E RS PA R A D I S E B B B /

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Photo - Juancho Lopez Basavilbaso

Photo - Nick Mattia

Photo - Juancho Lopez Basavilbaso

Photo - Gal Danon

Photo - Cortney Evans

Photo - Juancho Lopez Basavilbaso

PLAZA CENTRAL COMMERCIAL, PLAYA C A R M E N , CO STA R I C A . @BLADEANDBONECOLLECTIVE 30

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INDUSTRY | REVIEWS

WRITE-UP

BLADE & BONE COLLECTIVE BY CORTNEY EVANS In the remote surf village of Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, where the jungle meets the ocean, sits ‘Blade & Bone Collective’; A unique store that is standing out to the world as the place to get your hair cut in Central America. Cortney Evans, originally from Melbourne, first discovered Santa Teresa in 2014 while backpacking through Costa Rica, only to find that the village not only has incredible waves but no barbershop. It was also during this first visit that he met his future business partner, Del Monserrat, a Costa Rican / Australian artist. From 2015 - 2018 Cortney cut hair in many locations around town, including under an almond tree next to a surf shop, from his patio with an endless view of the coast and beside a hotel swimming pool to name a few. Around mid 2018 Cortney and Del Monserrat decided to join forces to create ‘Blade & Bone Collective’, an extension of their personalities, bringing together a high end barbershop, custom made jewelry, clothing, art and rebranded antiques. The store is truly unique, unlike anywhere else in the world, and a true cut above the rest for Costa Rica. “It was a unique opportunity to have fall into your lap. To live in paradise and cultivate your industry, more or less from the ground up.” Cortney told us. “It did of course have its moments while setting up the shop. There is no high quality grooming products available in the country, so we literally have our product line flown in from the states. I remember trying to buy a UV towel warmer in Costa Rica and every supply store I went to just kept directing me to rice cookers.”

Since it’s opening in 2018, the ’Blade & Bone Collective’ store has attracted a lot of attention locally and internationally. “We are one of the only barbershops in Costa Rica, if not Central America, where you can speak English and trust that you will leave with the cut you wanted. People hear about us during their travels and save their hair to come see us when they pass through town, and others who know we exist will literally leave their own cities, travel to Santa Teresa with a haircut being one of their first day priorities.” Blade and Bone Collective is bringing a level of quality in not only hair, but in everything they do. “As well as the barbershop, Del Monserrat creates incredible one of a kind jewelry that goes out all over the world, and between us we have decades of DJing under our belts, so we are now producing our own events in town which are constantly growing.” “There is something magical about the connections you make with your clients. For us we are so lucky to meet people from all over the globe everyday, with different stories, ideals, values, beliefs and of course hair. One thing that remains consistent throughout is that nearly everyone who comes into ‘Blade & Bone Collective’ has a genuine joy and appreciation for our work. As long as the waves keep pumping and the sun keeps shining, I can’t see myself doing this anywhere else.”

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what's new PRODUCT REVIEWS

BEARSKIN A natural charcoal face scrub purpose-built for men with deep cleansing properties, small natural jojoba beads, and zeolite volcanic ash to help remove dead skin cells and balance oily skin.

Using a charcoal face scrub twice a week helps clear out pores, remove heavy metals and toxins built up in your skin as well as balance out oily skin. Whilst the volcanic ash removes dirt and impurities the sweet almond oil and cocoa butter nourish and hydrate your skin to keep your face healthy and smooth. WWW.BEARSKIN.COM.AU

UPPERCUT DELUXE Uppercut Deluxe presents the newest addition to our styling line up - Styling Powder. Uppercut Deluxe Styling Powder adds volume and texture to all hair types and lengths with a natural, matte finish. This volumising powder is re-workable, making it the perfect day-to-day men's hair styling powder. If you're wanting to add texture, volume or control to your hair, without the fuss of a traditional wax or pomade, this the product for you. Use it to create Crops, Textured Quiffs and longer, looser looks in seconds.

Hold - Flexible - apply more Powder, for more hold Finish - Natural shine Style guide - Our go to for modern, textured styles. Perfect for crops, messy quiffs and everyday cuts Hair type - Suitable for any hair type, best used in short - medium hair. Excels in thinner or finer hair. WWW.UPPERCUTDELUXE.COM.AU

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TRENDS | HOT TOPICS

hot topics

WITH MAYA THEVAR

" MULLET HAS ENTERED THE CHAT "

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new trends in male grooming BROUGHT TO YOU BY JAX WAX By Michele Hetherington - Jax Wax Australia National Trainer

HAIR REMOVAL HAS COME A LONG WAY SINCE THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS USED TWEEZERS MADE FROM SEASHELLS TO REMOVE HAIR FROM THEIR BODIES.

Based on current industry reports, male waxing is an emerging trend for a variety of reasons, men are now waxing more areas of their body than ever. The main reason behind this trend is that they want to look and feel good and be appealing to a partner. However, there are other motives as to why men are opting for a sleek, smooth waxed body. These services are now not only available in the traditional beauty salon, but other areas of the hair and beauty industry such as barbershops are now offering male waxing. While beauty salons have long been offering male waxing treatments, the return of the old fashioned barbershop with a contemporary twist, now has barbers introducing waxing to their clients. Barbers are now offering their clients waxing for ears, nose and the monobrow while they relax in the barber’s chair. With a little training and product knowledge waxing can give your business that extra financial boost and have your customers recommending your services. A barbershop which has decided to embrace this industry revolution is Legends Sydney Barbershop, located in Sydney’s inner west suburb of Hurlstone Park and is owned and operated by husband and wife team Bruce & Liza Hathcock. Bruce, who is also the principal barber, is an industry legend himself who was born and raised in Los Angeles and has been cutting hair for more than 20 years. As well as operating Legends Sydney, he also teaches his trade to the next generation of barbers at Ultimo TAFE, ensuring that his craftsmanship and knowledge are passed on. With a vision to create the ultimate barbering experience Bruce and Liza decided it

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was time to introduce waxing services that could be performed by the barber while the client is in the chair. They are both very excited about this additional service and believe that the new Jax Wax Australia Daintree Blackbean Hot Wax is the perfect fit for their barbershop and clientele. The smoky grey colour of the wax and woody aroma of cedarwood and sandalwood fragrance blends perfectly with the masculinity of their traditional neighbourhood barbershop. Barbers these days not only cut, groom, style and shave but now wax men’s unwanted hair and understand the importance of protecting and maintaining good skin health. Newly released, Jax Wax Australia’s Daintree Blackbean After Wax Lotion contains organic Hemp oil, which is a powerful antiinflammatory that moisturises and balances oily skin, and organic Argan oil which contains beneficial nutrients and Vitamin E. With a light cedarwood and sandalwood fragrance this lotion is non-greasy and easily absorbed into the skin and can be used as a daily moisturiser to help prevent breakouts and reduce ingrown hairs. Jax Wax Australia’s National Trainer, Michele Hetherington says “The Jax Wax Australia Daintree Blackbean range is ideal for men, I love the aroma of this wax and always demonstrate the hot and strip wax in my waxing workshops. I find that the therapists are surprised to see that even the toughest hair will be removed so efficiently leaving very minimal redness. It is suitable for a full range of waxing treatments from facial waxing including eyebrow sculpting, backs, chest, arms or legs this is a wax I recommend for everyone to try.

Acknowledgements: Bruce and Liza Hathcock – Legends Barbershop Sydney.

TRENDS | MALE GROOMING

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sniff test. CUTTHROATS FAVOURITE FRANGRANCES

ACQUA DI GIO POUR HOMME EAU DE TOILETTE GIORGIO ARMANI Acqua di Gio Pour Homme EDT Spray 200mL. Experience Giorgio Armani's iconic masculine fragrance. Acqua di Gio Pour Homme is an aquatic, aromatic fragrance that opens with a splash of fresh, calabrian bergamot, neroli and green tangerine. Light, aquatic nuances mix with jasmine petal, crisp rock rose, rosemary, fruity persimmon and warm Indonesian patchouli to create a masculine scent that is both fresh and sensual.

SAUVAGE BY DIOR A new, highly concentrated interpretation of Sauvage, melding extreme freshness with warm oriental tones and fierce beauty that comes to life on the skin. Franรงois Demachy, Dior Perfumer-Creator, drew inspiration from unspoiled expanses of wilderness beneath a blue-tinged night sky, as the intense aromas of a crackling fire rise into the air. The fragrance of a new frontier: an interpretation with an enriched, heady trail that celebrates the magic of wide-open spaces.

PA CO R A B A N N E PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND At the frontier of time, a new land. Vast. And new challenge, immense. Burning desert heat. Motors roar in convoy. Ambush, counter-attack, acceleration. Invictus triumphs effortlessly and speeds towards glory.

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Experience Giorgio Armani's iconic masculine fragrance. Acqua di Gio Pour Homme is an aquatic, aromatic fragrance that opens with a splash of fresh, calabrian bergamot, neroli and green tangerine. Light, aquatic nuances mix with jasmine petal, crisp rock rose, rosemary, fruity persimmon and warm Indonesian patchouli to create a masculine scent that is both fresh and sensual.

TRENDS | SNIFF TEST

POLO RED EAU DE TOILETTE RALPH LAUREN FRAGRANCE

CREED AVENTUS COLOGNE Perfect for the daring, urban-spirited man, this Eau de Parfum is inspired by a classic uplifting cologne; revitalising the wearer with alluring fresh vigour. A fruity yet aromatic burst of ginger, mandarin and pink peppercorn is complemented by a sumptuous heart of patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. A leathery balsamic base of styrax, birch, musk and tonka provides the final touch to this vibrant new scent.

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TO P 1 0

B A R B E RS H T RIG H T N OW

[ SOCIAL MEDIA ] BY ABBEY HANNAN & TILLY EDWARDS We got together and picked the top 10 barbers of this year. Barbers who are doing great things in the industry from winning this years Barber Expo to having over 11k followers... These are the ones you have to watch!

@THEBARBELLBARBER Passionate as a barber can come! Bringing something new to the table and pushing the boundaries, Leigh shows creativity in his cuts! Barber of the Year 2019, he's definitely making a name for himself.

2. @YUKIKANO

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TRENDS | SOCIAL MEDIA

@RAZOR_ROSE

Multi award winning barber. Lorenzo from the loft barbershop keeps it fresh. Giving attention to detail and doing what he does best. His approach to barbering is one of professionalism giving his all into making his clients happy and leaving with a big smile.

@THE_GLOBECUTTER Climbing mountains to cut hair. Combining both his loves travel and barbering, he became the globe cutter. If you ever get the chance to meet Jack, you'll find out how much of a game changer he really is.

5. @JIMMYTHEHAIRDRESSER More than just a barber. Creator of the Barber Society. Jimmy prides himself on embracing the traditions of barbering, but with a modern twist.

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6. 7.

@FAB.BARBER A real believer, Fabrizio Trombetta brings a lot of knowledge and passion with him wherever he goes. Originally from Italy but now living in Melbourne, Fab is motivated with his work striving to be the best he can be. Living his best life!

@CHOPCHOPP_ Celine brings a whole different level to having fun in the shop. If you've ever been in Celines chair you'll know what I'm talking about. Achieving amazing things in only the 2 years she has been barbering Celine is a real inspiration.

8. @HOTSOYCE

Competing in this years Barber of the Year, coming in 3rd place. Xavier is a real master at what he does, putting in his all into his work. A must follow on your feed!

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TRENDS | SOCIAL MEDIA

@THEBLVCKOUTBARBER Multi-Award winning barber Callum Johnson (AKA the blackoutbarber) taking 2nd place in The Barber of the Year 2019. He brings ultimate skill and passion to the industry. Look out for the black out barber.

10. @SARAHWALL_INDUSTRIES

Ranked 3rd top Australian female barber in 2019's FEIBI barber competition, Sarah is making her way up the ladder. Always striving to make the people around her the best they can be, Sarah brings amazing knowledge and tips to the industry.

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Protecting the rainforest with halfcut. SALONS, BARBERS, CAFES AND BREWERIES HALFCUT TO SAVE RAINFORESTS First off, take me through why you've got half a beard on and your partner Jess has half braided hair? When we learned back in 2014 that nearly half the world's forest was destroyed we wanted to create a visual disruption for people to ask "why half a beard, did you lose a bet mate" allowing us to have a conversation about conservation, explaining the visual metaphor that now more than 50% of the world's forests are destroyed and 50% of plant species are extinct. Jess, naturally couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t grow a beard, but the visual representation of half braided hair still start conversations. We like to look at things and ask â&#x20AC;&#x153;why?â&#x20AC;? as a visual species, it was the perfect disruptor to get people talking and taking action on the issue with a tangible outcome with $2.50 (on average globally) saving an acre of old growth pristine rainforest.

When you and Jess visited South America in 2011, what went through your head when you saw the extent of the destruction? We were at a loss. It felt too big of an issue to tackle and to even start the process felt almost impossible. Most people get it when they see the destruction, but the issue becomes the elephant in the room, we know it's happening we know why it is happening, but how do we stop it? When we came back to Australia we realised the issues were just as bad if not worse here in Australia. Australia is the youngest country to be colonised and the only developed country in the top 11 countries for deforestation globally with the main cause of deforestation being animal agriculture. 80% of global deforestation is due to animal ag, within Australia 78% of deforestation is animal ag-related. As many would argue, we have an eating issue. We can afford to feed 70 billion owned animals but struggle to feed 7.7 billion humans? What we did

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find was solutions with local traditional owners who were collaborating with land buyback eco-tourism providing an income via tourism and educating local indigenous neighbours to join into the protection of their forests and not sell off for logging and cattle grazing. This way preserving the integrity of the forests, their culture, habitat for threatened and endangered species, food and medicine yet discovered as well as providing employment for locals. And allowing rainforests/forests doing what they do best, storing carbon, providing precipitation (rain) and home to over 50% of all life and biodiversity on Earth. One acre of intact rainforest provides up to 76,000 litres of water per annum and can take stores up to 385mt of CO2, the equivalent of absorbing the emission of 5 cars on the road per year. Has the situation got better or worse? The awareness and consciousness are more present than ever, regrettably, deforestation and land clearing is back on the rise globally. We are failing old-growth forests and rainforests for short-term gains and profits. Further to this, forests and rainforests are having fires where they have never happened in history. Rain-forests are called just that rain-forests for it is an ecosystem that should be fireproof unless ignited purposely. Due to global temperature increases, more intense lightning strikes, droughts and micro-climates getting hotter and purposely ignited fires for human profit gain, this is a trend that is only going to increase unless serious intervention from Governments, Transnational Corporations, businesses and consumers make ethical choices over profits. In light of the recent fires in the Amazon, do you think your message is even more important? Regrettably, only once a crisis happens does anything become news, would it not be better to have interventions and sanctions put in place first? The current fires in Australia highlight this with over 1.6 million hectares lost to fires.

FEATURES | HALFCUT

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The Amazon fires were raging for several weeks before it became news. Further to this, the Amazonian in Brazil loses an acre of old-growth pristine rainforest every minute to logging and animal ag. The fires allowed for an additional acre to be lost on top of this every minute. Every 1 minute the Amazon lost 2 acres of rainforests for several weeks. Once the fires go out (parts of the Amazon in Brazil are still burning) it will be business, as usual, losing a football field every minute. The real crust of the issue is big large animal agriculture and big profits. Our message is to highlight that “hey we have lost a lung of the Planet, what do you reckon will happen if we lose the other one?” It may be hard to stomach that eating meat is eating our forests to death, but we now know this as facts as reported for the UN. The strongest statements back in 2014 (5 years ago) linking animal agriculture and deforestation come from The Food and Agriculture Organization of The United Nations (FAO): “A new report from FAO says livestock production is one of the major causes of the world’s most pressing environmental problems, including global warming, land degradation, air and water pollution, and loss of biodiversity.” And we can’t continue on this path for we are already living and seeing the very real consequences of this choice. Jess and I became vegan after seeing the destruction of rainforests and becoming educated back in 2011. It was hard, but it will be harder still to not have a safe climate, food, water and air if we continue on this path. We can’t and don’t intend to tell people what to do, but invite and encourage them to be educated on the issues and how there are available solutions. Do you miss the beard on the clean shaven side just a bit? Haha, owwww yeah I do! I am a beardy man at heart. I have always had a beard on, even in my early teens. The beard just felt natural and right for me. For me, it represents growing things, natural, the forests. I do hope I can start some serious regeneration that is also urgently required and that I can start to grow the beard back when we get this right and stop deforestation. How long do you reckon you'll be half bearded for? I have been HalfCut for over one year now, August

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31st 2019 was National HalfCut Day that marks a milestone of one whole year. It was great to have other HalfCut people joining in. It was only going to be a year campaign but I’ve had too much fun with it! Also, at this stage, we aren't winning in this fight to protect our forests and our climate and I plan to be HalfCut until the time is right and or to continue to show the destruction by removing more than 50% of my beard if this is the path humanity chooses. My long term action plan is to be HalfCut for 11 years to mark the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report, stating that we have less than 11 years to address irreversible runaway climate chaos. To me this is unacceptable. Humanity is better than this, I want to be proven wrong, that we can get it right with the solutions readily available and step up to what we believe is the greatest threat facing humanity and all species on Earth. How much did HalfCut raise, how many people took part and how many acres of rainforests were saved? We raised over $223,068 and donations continue to roll in. All donations are matched $1 for $1 by partners Rainforest Trust. We had over 106 people taking part from all paths of life, all ages, sexes and cultures raising on average per participant $2,104 AUD. Our HalfCut Heroes helped to protect over 89,227 acres of rainforest (for life) in locations Amazon Peru, Columbia, Ghana, Brazil and Laos. In 2018 we saved 44,725 acres in Australia’s Atherton Tableland creating a corridor for the threatened and endangered Southern Cassowary and Eastern Quoll. We have also engaged in Daintree property buybacks where we have eco-lodges Benella Rainforest Reserve in Diwan for our donors and participants to visit, rest, see properties that have been protected and plant trees from our very own nursery in the world’s oldest rainforest. You had breweries, salons and barbers supporting the movement? Tell us about this? How can others get involved? It was fantastic to see these business products and services come onboard with the tangible outcome of $2.50 saving an acre of rainforests. We had over 15 independent breweries join with providing karam kegs - Save The Rainforests Save the Beers in the

FEATURES | HALFCUT

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month of August. Anyone who was HalfCut received a free beer. We had our first salons and barbers come onboard donating $2.50 per haircut or beard trim that made the clients service carbon neutral/positive. These salons and barbers are doing this all year round now helping to save our rainforests, the beers and climate for further generations. To have your salon, barber shop or brewery take part visit HalfCut Alliances. How does $2.50 save an acre of pristine old growth rainforest? And how do you know it stays protected?

Black-faced Black Spider Monkey. The 2018 Australian 44,725 acres Caloola property, Cooktown, Cape York Peninsula, Australia, $31.62 per acre. The price per acre varies from country to country and depending on how many acres, on average $2.50 protects an acre for life. To date and with 31 years of operation Rainforest Trust and partners have had 100% success rate with rainforests protection of properties, they are protected in perpetuity. How can people and businesses get involved now?

On average $2.50 (about the price of half a coffee) protects an acre of rainforest globally. One of the key factors is it is massacre buyback, for example, the current urgent appeal to save rainforest in the Amazonia Peru is $0.76 US cents per acre with the goal to protect over 6 million acres of rainforests. The areas are isolated from major towns with the pressing issue of Indigenous Native Titles and who owns the land. This project is in partnership with CEDIA (Center for the Development of an Indigenous Amazon) with 220 Indigenous communities and covering more than 6 million acres in order to legally protect indigenous lands. It is crucial to close the unprotected gaps between indigenous territories to prevent colonists and industries from negatively affecting the integrity of the ecosystems. In addition to granting communities the rights to their land, this will provide protection for Endangered species such as the White-bellied Spider Monkey, Giant Otter and

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We invite people to visit HalfCut.org and sign up to the 2020 HalfCut campaign August 31st National HalfCut Day, we will be in touch. We also invite businesses to join other ethical businesses who are going carbon neutral or positive as a HalfCut Alliances member by donating a percentage of profits or services to your own page. Showing clients your own rainforests acre protection counter and carbon storage. We have breweries, salons, barbers, cafes, chocolate and coffee brands, restaurants and many other businesses who are taking the lead as a HalfCut Alliances saving our rainforests and securing the protection of their products for future generations. VISIT HALFCUT.ORG

FEATURES | HALFCUT

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VEA FONUA

project 100

EXPERIENCING THE BARBER INDUSTRY FIRST HAND

What started with spending the day guest-cutting at one of my favourite shops quickly evolved into the desire to continue meeting new people and discovering what there was to offer in the barber world. With the goal to guest spot at 100 barbershops around the world, I knew I would have to reach outside my comfort zone and expose myself to new environments and situations. With each visit, I work in the shops as part of their team for a day or two. The way Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m documenting this journey is solely based on my personal experience and my time as a guest at each shop. What Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve reflected includes culture, personalities, community, stories, history and integrity of service. This is my personal project, PROJECT 100.

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MALONEY’S BARBERSHOP MALONEY’S BARBER SHOP 1- 192 VICTORIA STREET WEST AUCKLAND CBD NEW ZEALAND 09 379 3060 @MALONEYSBARBER WWW.MALONEYS.CO.NZ

If you were to designate one shop to represent Barber Tradition and Culture in New Zealand –Maloney’s Barbershop in Auckland would be it. Located in Auckland CBD, this barbershop is open Mon-Sat, providing full Barber services. Two days working alongside the team of 11 gave me an insight into why they have established themselves as an institution in New Zealand Men’s grooming. Not to mention the countless awards they have won. My two days of work at Maloney’s were adrenaline packed. With the shop using a walk-in/call-in blackboard system, it creates an unpredictable, fast-paced day. This old-school tradition suits

the Maloney’s atmosphere and is a fun challenge for barbers new or old. A lot of men appreciate that they can still get a haircut last minute, on impulse and not have to commit to an appointment time. With 9 barbers working, the blend of personalities and perspectives was as entertaining as they come. The array of conversation between barbers, between customers, and between barbers and customers is definitely a highlight of my time there (Especially Sue with her ‘sports talk’). With 15 years in the area, couple Julian and Sue Maloney started with two chairs on one floor in a developing city fringe area. Now 9 chairs on two floors, (third floor is used for training) their neighbourhood has evolved with them and is part of the bustling, expanding CBD. Their development and retention of talent is testament to their “Family” concept, which has helped the barbers and shop thrive dependently. Julian and Sue have created a blend of management, leadership and mentorship

that has cultivated great chemistry amongst their team. In an industry that struggles with staff retention, Maloney’s has managed to keep the majority of their staff for at least 3-4 years, with one barber Sue Phelan still working there now for over 13 years! Consistent staff has allowed for consistent service, energy and culture in the shop -something that can be hard to build and keep at a high level in this industry.

FEATURES | PROJECT 100

The shop itself has gone through a number of facelifts, but it still keeps its community based culture and vibe. With the work of local artists on the walls, displays of memorabilia from clients and events, and a full stock of local beers and merchandise, there is something for everyone to appreciate in this barbershop. If you’re in Auckland CBD, go and say Hi to Julian and the crew. Barber Salute Maloney’s!

VIBE AND STYLE – OLD SCHOOL TRADITIONAL MUST TRY – C LO S E CU T T H R OAT S H AV E W I T H S U E “ CU T T H R OAT ” M A LO N E Y A N D A N Y O F THE LOCAL BEERS THEY OFFER. PRO TIP – P H O N E I N T O S A V E Y O U R T I M E S P O T. E A R LY O P E N A T 8 A M M O N - F R I

JULIAN MALONEY

BARBER TO WATCH – UP AND COMING FINN @BOYCOTTBILLIONAIRE the cutthroat journal

BOAR AND BLADE BOAR AND BLADE 136 PONSONBY ROAD, PONSONBY CENTRAL AUCKLAND NEW ZEALAND +64 27 384 3862 @BOAR_AND_BLADE WWW.BOARANDBLADE.CO.NZ Young guns on the block, Boar and Blade bring an element of theatre to a humming Ponsonby Central– a vibrant hub of cafes, pubs and restaurants. This shop provides a new school attitude and abundance of fresh talent to the mix of barbershops that dot the streets of Ponsonby. Having taken over the business from a previous owner, Hohepa has developed the brand into three shops- Ponsonby Central and Wynyard Quarter in Auckland, and Egmont Street in Wellington. After 2 years in charge so far, the brand itself is evolving into more of a New Age Barbershop than a Traditional one. With the changing face of the Industry, Boar and Blade has definitely embraced the modern approach to Men’s grooming. With the young talent, these guys are emphasizing a lot of hairdressing and traditional barbering techniques mixed together to achieve on-trend cuts. I had my guest spot in the Ponsonby Central location, a 5 chair operation in a space conscious barbershop. My first impression was the style and swagger of the barbers and their casual and laid back approach. The cool calm inside the shop almost makes you forget you’re in the middle of a bustling building full of people shopping, dining and milling about. Even with the limited amount of space, the setting is welcoming and relaxing and you can enjoy a beer and people watch or check out whatever is on the flat screen. Boar and Blade’s regulars are a fun crowd to work with. They’re confident about their styles and willing to push the limits with new trends. What this shop lacks in space it exudes in style and swagger. Barber Salute Boar and Blade.

BOAR AND BLADE BARBERSHOP 50

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BOAR AND BLADE

VIBE AND STYLE – CONTEMPORARY MODERN MUST TRY – NEW WYNYARD QUARTER STORE. PRO TIP – BOOK AHEAD FOR WELLINGTON STORE. ( I T B O O K S U P R E G U L A R LY ) . C O F F E E A T E I G H T T H I RTY I S A G R E AT CO M PA N I O N D U R I N G YO U R CU T AT P O N S O N BY C E N TRAL. BARBER TO WATCH – O N T R E N D H O H E PA @ H O H E PA R U T E N E

EVENTS

IN THE CUT BARBERSHOP IN THE CUT BARBERSHOP 299 MAIN RD, HUAPAI KUMEU NEW ZEALAND +64 9412 2655 @INTHECUTBARBERSHOP FACEBOOK.COM WWW.INTHECUTBARBERSHOPNZ/ Tucked in amongst a garden centre, liquor store and a local tavern is In The Cut Barbershop. Owner/Operator Tomas has had the space for over two years now. Previously owned by a local hairdresser for over 10 years as a barbershop, the transition of business was welcomed by the existing and new clients. Gum boots and mullets are a regular occurrence in Huapai, West Auckland. Tomas, Liam and the boys are embracing the Westie style, but also pushing traditional and fashion forward cuts.

The growth of the surrounding community has seen two new subdivisions develop, bringing in more young families into the area, as well as a number of new restaurants and cafes. This area has proven that community is a big contributor to the success and longevity of local businesses. Backed by this community, In The Cut Barbershop won The Best Health & Beauty Business at the North West Country Business Awards for 2018 in their first year of operation. A focus on local also contributed to a collaboration between In The Cut Barbershop and local brewery Hallertau. It’s evident that the In The Cut team are invested in their relationships with their clients. They pride themselves on connection to their community and that pride is clearly reciprocated by their clients and those that support them. In The Cut is an example of a community-focused shop that pours time, creativity and dedication into collaborations and clientfocused service. As someone that values this, it’s awesome to see this shop succeed and thrive. Barber Salute In The Cut Barbershop.

VIBE AND STYLE – LOCAL COMMUNITY HALL MUST TRY – LO C A L H A L L E RTAU D R O P – I N T H E CU T B A R B E RS H O P I PA PRO TIP – O N S A T U R D A Y S G E T T H E R E E A R LY A N D WRITE YOUR NAME ON THE WHITEBOARD TO SECURE A SPOT IN THE QUEUE. BARBER TO WATCH – TA P E R L I A M @ L I A M L E R M the cutthroat journal

TOKOYA BARBER & SHOP was in awe of the design and functionality. Simultaneously feeling like you’re in a private station while feeding off the communal energy of those around you was an awesome environment to cut in. Flow and energy is something that we take for granted at times, but this shop has loads of it.

What would you do if you had the chance to re-do your shop set up? What would you add? What would you take out? How would you lay it out? I know what I would do, and I know what Kaisei, Owner/Operator of Tokoya Barber & Shop would do. He has set up one of the most functional spaces to cut hair that I’ve ever been in. From spacing between barbers to station layouts to product placement and ease-of-use, I

Kaisei came from working on his own 5 years ago to now having a team of 10. The grind of a new shop is always a slow burn, especially if you’re on your own. His team has built steadily over the last 3 years and he has implemented his own style and standards into training at Tokoya. Now with established Barbers on the floor, the shop has seen a transition into more of a booking system. Still taking on walk-ins, the gamble

is how long you might have to wait until a spot opens up. One noticeable change to shop decor is the number of Awards Kaisei and his team won at New Zealand BarberCraft in 2017 and 2018, with the prestigious New Zealand Barber of the Year 2018 awarded to Kaisei. With the accolades and achievements come a whole lot of new clientele and expectations. A high standard is something I gathered from my time here, not only in cutting but in customer service. From the space provided and the expectations set, the tone is always clear. Work hard and provide great cuts. Barber Salute Tokoya Barber & Shop!

KAISEI

TOKOYA BARBER & SHOP 279 PONSONBY RD, PONSONBY AUCKLAND NEW ZEALAND +64 9378 4477 @TOKOYA_BARBER_SHOP WWW.TOKOYA.CO.NZ

VIBE AND STYLE – FUNCTIONAL AND MODERN MUST TRY – S I G N AT U R E C LA SS I C CU T F R O M KA I S E I PRO TIP – NEW BOOKING SYSTEM, AVOID THE WAIT IN THE WALK IN LINE BARBER TO WATCH– CLASSIC STYLE KAISEI @TOKOYA_KAISEI

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BLADEZ BARBERS BLADEZ BARBERS 173 STATION RD BURPENGARY QLD 4505 AUSTRALIA +61 7 3888 2659 @BLADEZBARBERS HTTPS://WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/STYLEITUP1/ After connecting on Instagram with Collette, operator of The Australian Female Barbers, I managed to convince owner and operator Sarah to have me work with them for a day. This was a first for me not having met anyone in the shop and going in cold from the get go. Burpengary is a tradie town and one of the most popular truck stops along the coast north of Brisbane. Bladez Barbers is owned by Sarah Burton who has over 20 years of experience in the Hair Industry. She has set up an edgy but family friendly Barbershop. With its bold George Michael portrait covering one wall and a Marvel mural on the other, it sets a tone for what you might expect in the shop. Confident and down to earth barbers with a flair and love of laughter. The clientele is predominantly men, but they also provide cutting services for women. I realized quickly how every Barbershop operates similarly but with distinct differences, how we have a variety of skill sets and personalities blending to provide the ‘identity’ of the shop. This shop had a confident, vibrant feel all day, with all 3 women barbers providing great service and product. Since my guest spot at Bladez the shop has continued to grow, adding more barbers and incorporating a live DJ in the shop once a month. Another first for me at Bladez was the opportunity to work with an all female crew, something that I haven’t thought about and also something that didn’t phase me. It’s a dynamic I thoroughly enjoyed and it enhanced my awareness of females in the Industry. The opportunity to work with this team exposed me to different perspectives that I haven’t had the chance to explore and question before. A female working in a male dominated work force was something I knew existed but didn’t fully understand. Key conversations are still to be had, and I personally feel we are making great strides towards creating a more inclusive Barber community, but there is still a lot of room to get better. I greatly appreciated these women allowing me to join them in their space and work together side by side.

BLADEZ BARBERS

VIBE AND STYLE – COUNTRY FAIR MUST TRY – G O I N G I N W H E N T H E Y H A V E A DJ PLAYING TUNES LIVE. PRO TIP – SPECIALIZES IN BOTH MALE AND FEMALE H A I R CU TS . G R E AT FO R T H E W H O L E F A M I LY. BARBER TO WATCH – SCISSOR HANDS SARAH

Barber Salute Bladez Barbers. the cutthroat journal

PHOTO BY SAM FRAWLEY

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FEATURES | AMERICAN BBQ TOUR

AMERICAN BBQ TOUR BY SEAN EDWARDS

One of my favourite pastimes is having friends around for a barbie. I fell in love with smoking food about ten years ago and have been heavily involved with BBQ events around the country ever since. Low and Slow BBQ, which originated in the Southern states of America, is dominating now in Australia and groups of friends are getting together to compete in competitions on weekends. It has become serious business with people, who are spending thousands of dollars on a good smoking system. Many people start with a weber kettle then they step up to an offset stick burner or a pellet smoker. Five years ago, it was difficult to buy a good setup, so many innovative Aussies built their smokers from old gas tanks, kegs and 44-gallon drums. Companies like BBQâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Galore and Bunnings have jumped on the growing trend and now supply most of the gear you need to start your hobby.

PHOTO BY WWW.STUBBSAUSTIN.COM

PHOTO BY JAMES CAMP

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"YOU CAN'T GO TO AUSTIN WITHOUT A VISIT TO FRANKLIN BBQ."

PHOTO BY NEW YORK TIMES

I thought this year whilst traveling for work in the USA I would seek out my own BBQ favourites. America has quite a few states that love their BBQ – with some of the top cities being Nashville, Austin and Atlanta. These three cities are very competitive on who cooks the best BBQ, so I thought I would test which BBQ joints impressed my palate the most. The next part of my Journey took me to Atlanta, Georgia. Their BBQ is good and has a mix of different southern styles. What I liked about the Atlanta BBQ joint was the selection of traditional southern side dishes. I had the best ‘Mac and Cheese’ dishes in Atlanta than I have had in any other parts of the USA. You can’t go to Atlanta without a visit to Fox Brothers BBQ. Their Brisket is to die for and is cooked more Texan style with their rubs and sauces. Next stop I styled up and went to DBA BBQ restaurant who play hard ball with the chef styled menu. My favourite dish was the fried green tomato which brought a different element into play versus traditional BBQ sides. The meats were all cooked to perfection and the mix platter option was a smart way to experience the full protein offering.

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The last stop on my BBQ tour was Austin, Texas. Our hotel was right next to Stubbs BBQ which we all know through their retail sauces. Stubbs BBQ has a restaurant and an outdoor music venue that hosted a different genre every night in summer. Austin is a party city and Stubbs have cleverly catered to this market. The BBQ was good but the service was a little rushed and not really focused on the food. You can’t go to Austin without a visit to Franklin BBQ. Weekends are ridiculous and people camp out overnight so they don’t miss the brisket. The line takes about 2 hours to get in but well worth it to visit the best BBQ joint in the USA. Yes, this is the mecca for practicing Pit Masters.

FEATURES | AMERICAN BBQ TOUR

PHOTO BY EVAN SUNG

My last stop in Austin was Terry Blacks BBQ. This place rocks and you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to line up. This was our pick for a good solid Texas BBQ experience. The meats were perfectly smoked and you can chat to the Pit Masters with daily tours available. The staff were super friendly and happily guided me through the flavour profiles, what was special about each meat and each side dish. It was very interesting to discover the different styles of American BBQ and how each state has a particular taste profile through a rub or a sauce. I realised there is no such thing as a traditional BBQ flavour as the variations are endless. I love seeing chefs get involved in this industry as they take flavours and techniques to another level - mixing smoked foods into five star dishes. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to visit other cities like Kansas City and Memphis which are also known to have some big name BBQ joints.

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FEATURES | BEARSKIN

When Bearskin started in 2018 it was merely a simple

One thing Bearskin highlights and educates men on is

idea. Create a business that made a difference in men’s

there is no silver bullet when it comes to your health

lives. A simple concept, that gave rise to a men’s natural

and the same goes for your skin. Routine and discipline

& ethically conscious skincare range. A brand that

when combined with quality products and lifestyle are

was masculine and edgy but also clean, healthy and

what make the difference long term.

contributed to men’s lives in local communities. In short, the simple idea that started Bearskin, to make As Bearskin has evolved, so has the vision of the

a real difference and impact men’s lives, has lead them

company. Bearskin uses natural and simple ingredients

to help hundreds of gentlemen around Australia take

to create uncomplicated, highly efficient and hassle free

better care of their face and body. Not only that, they

skincare routines. Selling the right products not many

are supporting our local communities and men’s mental

products is a Bearskin philosophy and they do just that.

health charities by donating $1 from each sale to these

There are 3 fundamental steps to any men’s skincare

charities. When you buy Bearskin, it makes a difference

regime and that’s as simple as it has to be. That’s why

for you and others.

Bearskin has developed The Face Wash, Charcoal Face Scrub and Revitalising Face Moisturiser. Quick, easy to use essentials for achieving and maintaining healthy skin.

WWW.BEARSKIN.COM.AU @BEARSKIN_AUS

Each of the products developed by Bearskin contains high-quality natural ingredients like Jojoba beads, volcanic ash, Kakadu plum seed and Shea butter, which work in unison to cleanse, nourish and soothe your skin. By creating all natural formulations Bearskin products are free from chemicals and plastics like microbeads, silicones, detergents, and synthetic fragrances that can have adverse effects on your skin and environment. This ensures that these products are a winning combination for normal to sensitive skin types.

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BMOTSC: THE FACIAL HAIR CLUB GROWING THE DISTANCE BY GRETA COLES

IN 2007, HE SAID HIS ‘I DO’ WITH A SMALL GOATEE UPON HIS CHIN. LITTLE DID HE KNOW ABOUT 5 YEARS LATER HE WOULD HAVE A FULL BEARD THAT HAD PEOPLE STOPPING HIM IN THE STREET TO COMMENT. And, that it would be the start of his Beard Club in 2013. Nathen Coles has been growing his beard for almost 10 years. There was a point in his growth that his mates started to ask him when he was going to shave and “what was with the beard?” It was then that he realised none of his friends around him had facial hair and it began to make him feel like an odd one out. So, with social media becoming more of a platform for connecting with people, his wife suggested they start a beard group for him to find some hairy friends locally. Bearded Men of the Sunshine Coast was established. A few months after starting on Facebook and inviting friends and family to join, it got some attention and he landed himself and wife, Greta, on the front page of the Sunshine Coast Daily. Page likes spiked over night and the momentum hasn’t stopped for the past six years. The club has become an incorporated association and have a thriving member base that attend the regular club meets. They are now known as Bearded Men of the Sunshine Coast Inc. or BMOTSC as they affectionately refer to it. Nathen is President, Greta Coles is Secretary and one of the longest standing members Jason Sizeland is the Treasurer. Jason also owns The Barbers Shed stores in three locations on the Sunshine Coast. The club has a massive network of local businesses and services they support that are intertwined with the Beard Club culture. They are regularly asked for grooming tips and beard care product recommendations. Over the years Nathen and the club have been fortunate enough to use many different brands of beard balms, oils, washes, brushes and love talking about them amongst the facial hair community. Grooming is a massive part of looking after your facial hair and Nathen is no stranger to it with his beard coming in at 45cm in length. There are some excellent brands that have sponsored the club and have kept them looking sharp for all the competition stages they take to.

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This year they held their 6th Annual Beard & Moustache Competition. This type of event generally attracts hundreds of spectators and on average 50 competitors across seven categories – Moustache, Partial Beard, Whiskerina (female creative faux beard), Full Beard 0-10cm, 10-20cm, over 20cm and Freestyle which is the creative styled beard. The club also had members attend seven Competitions from Gympie, Qld down to Ballarat in Victoria. Some of these comps have been hosted by the club at events in the community including The Barbers Expo, Oktoberfest On The Coast and Beef & Beers Festival. They have raised thousands of dollars over the years for nonprofit organisations including Rosie’s; Friends on the Streets, Headspace, Movember Foundation, Heartkids and This is a Conversation Starter. But, it’s not only local and interstate competitions that their club members have attended. In 2017, Nathen travelled to the World Beard & Moustache Championships in Austin, Texas. He was amongst over a dozen Australians and placed 13th out of 31 in his category of 30-45cm. BMOTSC is proud to have the highest ranked Australian in their club. Donna Coles took out second place in the Whiskerina Creative Moustache category. A title she will defend at the 2021 Championships in New Zealand. The club is in the early planning stages to get as many members over there to compete. If you would like to get involved with BMOTSC or know someone with some epic facial hair, you can find us on the following platforms: Facebook – Bearded Men of the Sunshine Coast Inc. www. facebook.com/BeardedMenOfTheSC Instagram - @bearded_men_of_the_sc Website – www.beardedmenofthesc.com.au Email – bmotscsecretary@gmail.com

FEATURES | BMOTSC

PHOTOS - TY TAMBLYN & STUDIO REPUBLIC

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FEATURES | ICANDY

iCandy Elite Series Scissors ICANDY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INSPIRATION â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INNOVATION The Elite scissor with its Mountain Blade is designed to increase blade strength for super sharp precision cutting. Along with the ergonomic shaped offset handle for comfort and control, this versatile scissor has incredible performance. Since taking the world by storm in 2016, the Elite Scissor Series has been showcased in Italy, London, New York & Canada, as well as Melbourne, Sydney & Brisbane in Australia. The Elite Series Scissors are available in sizes 5.5, 6.0 & 6.5 inch as well as a Thinning Scissor & Texturising Scissor in size 6.0 inch. The fine Thinning scissor will gently blend or remove weight, whilst the wider tooth texturiser is perfect on the ends of the hair for creating that textured look. The great thing about having a Series of Scissors is the ability to move between cutting and texturizing with the same familiar feel of comfort and control in your hand. The way the handle is shaped and rounded with the rolled thumb really allows your hand to move the scissor around comfortably when performing different techniques of cutting at different angles. Each scissor is fitted with a unique ball bearing hinge system to reduce friction within the movement. This allows for an effortless cutting action and super smooth performance. With a Lifetime Warranty and ability to be resharpened, these scissors are made to last. Scissors you will enjoy using every day. WWW.ICANDYSCISSORS.COM.AU @ICANDYSCISSORSAUSTRALIA

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THE PARAMEDIC BARBER DAMIAN ROCHE (ROCHEY)

HOW DID I GET INVOLVED IN BARBERING? Approximately 6 years ago a close friend opened a salon and barbershop which I helped with the social media side of things. At the time I was looking for a new skill which in the long run would be of benefit to me. From there I went to QLD Hairdressing Academy at Stones Corner and completed my courses there while also working as a full time paramedic. CHANGED MY LIFE? A barber is someone who looks after those in his community and so do paramedics so they go hand in hand to an extent. The way itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s changed me is more the way I give back to my community through my BARBERAid work of cutting for the homeless, people in need and most recently the elderly (I cut hair at a nursing home for seniors week a few weeks ago). JUGGLE WORK? As a full time paramedic my roster is four days on and four days off, so on my days off Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got clients who are booked in with a wait time for an appt around 4-6 weeks at the moment. BARBERAid is done on my days off and booked in advance so I have everything planned out.

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FEATURES | BEHIND THE CHAIR

BARBERAID? When I started barbering I was approached at Rome’s for haircuts by cancer sufferers who were struggling (this was done by friends who knew someone in need). From there a group of barbers did a day in Sth Brisbane for a charity and it was a one off. I was raised in a family of firefighters, so it was normal to want to help others.. From this I decided to ask one of my clients who was a senior pastor at a church for contacts so I could start BARBERAid. His church already fed the homeless in Ipswich on a specific night and from there BARBERAid was officially born. I now have a group of barbers and hairdressers that work together and come to our events to give back to our community. MY SHOP? When I started I worked at a shop in Yamanto called MJ’s Barber Shoppe for two years. My step son also worked there (now works at Uncle Rocco’s in Melb, the kid is goood). After two years my barber shifts became less often and yet I needed to cut and shave as that’s all I wanted to do. My fiancée and I were discussing options when she said to build the shop in the garage at home. So from there I had a mate who was a builder in his previous job come in and we built my shop. It’s the best home business barbershop I think you’ll ever see, you walk into an actual shop. I only play vinyl records, my clients can choose their own music to play or bring their own records if they want, everyone is offered a drink, kids get a lollipop as well, I have a sit down old school arcade game and it’s the best space. As a Paramedic you look for things to help you relax eg play station, reading, camping etc, well my barbershop is my play station so to speak.

T H E PA R A M E D I C B A R B E R PA R A M E D I C B A R B E R . CO M @ PA R A M E D I C B A R B E R @BARBERAIDAUS the cutthroat journal

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FEATURE | UPPERCUT DELUXE

Uppercut Deluxe Welcomes Tim Hutton Uppercut Deluxe is proud to welcome Tim ‘Hutto’ Hutton, owner of Hutto’s Barbershop, to the Barber Ambassador team. Tim has always been an advocate of Uppercut Deluxe, being an avid fan of the product prior to becoming a barber he appreciated the quality and versatility in the range. Residing in Adelaide, Australia, Hutto always had an interest in becoming a barber and finally pursued the dream at the age of 26. Hutto was one of the first qualified barbers in South Australia and drew inspiration from other barbers around the world. Hutto idolizes Barbers that are not only known for their topnotch cuts, but also for the quality of their service – those like Shane Nesbitt, Luke Dolan, Tommy J and Mike Conti. Through hours of practice and an absolute dedication to the industry, Hutto rose through the ranks and is now considered to be one of Australia’s premier barbers. Hutto’s Barbershop first opened in 2017 and offers a unique space where all walks of life can feel comfortable in. Priding himself on a high level of service, Tim loves hearing a new story and providing the best experience to his clients - after all that’s what Barbering is all about. Signature style: Tim loves to keep things neat with his go to being anything tapered and a super clean line up. Time with Uppercut Deluxe: From user to barber Tim has always been a fan of the brand with his first tin being the unique and iconic, Deluxe Pomade. Now as a barber he appreciates the versatility and ease the range offers both consumers and barbers. WHY UPPERCUT DELUXE? “I truly believe in Uppercut Deluxe and feel so comfortable recommending Uppercut Deluxe to customers knowing that they are getting a quality product. Uppercut Deluxe not only offers a range of versatility for the consumer, but also listens to what the barbers in the industry want and tailors towards that”

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BY SAL HADJOUDJ

NO MATTER WHO YOU SPEAK TO, MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES SEEM TO HAVE AFFECTED MOST PEOPLE IN ONE WAY OR ANOTHER AND WITH THE REALISATION THAT THERE IS STILL NOT ENOUGH SUPPORT OR UNDERSTANDING AROUND THE WORLD REGARDING MENTAL ILLNESSES, WE ASKED OURSELVES WHAT CAN WE DO…. Big Man Beard Co-Founders Lucy & Sal a husband and wife duo with over 20 years’ experience in retail, fashion and technology have created a brand that stands for something. 1 in 4 of us suffer with some form of mental health illness which in reality means we are all either going through it or know someone who is. However really what do we know, where and what do we say? How do we cope? Or where do we get help? The questions we don’t know the answers for are endless. After surviving a suicide attempt myself some time ago now, there is an open question of what help is out there? I had nowhere to go, no one who I thought would understand, I was fortunate in that it ended with myself still being here, I am a strong extravert character certainly someone you wouldn’t associate with this…is that part of the problem we use our eyes and ears to judge how someone is feeling? BACK TO THE BEGINNING I had been talking to a friend in Melbourne about doing something for ourselves work wise and about the loss of some friends to mental health issues and how there isn’t enough out there for people to know where to go and should we be doing more to help. He mentioned why not combine both, run your own business and do it while making an impact in the mental health arena. I sat back and thought really, could you do both? So to the breakfast table it was and the questioned posed to Lucy. “What if we could build a Brand that meant something, a brand so powerful that someone who is struggling with a Mental Health illness could find some comfort from it, so powerful it took them from a dark place and made them feel safe or simply not alone and gave them strength enough to change their immediate mental space”

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Sounds impossible right? But is it? We decided if we never try we will never know but it’s all in or all out to make this work. That’s where the real work began. Within the next few days Big Man Beard was born and symbolised by the Big Man Beard distinctive logo. What a few days that was working around the clock with a branding agency and searching for products that could reinforce the brand. It was there where we came across Teemill an ethical and sustainable clothing company that allowed you build over their order fulfilment site and meant the time to market was very quick leaving us to concentrate on the Brand and how we were/ are going to make a difference. The items are ethically sourced and are not tested on animals; they do not contain animalderived products. Printed with low waste printing tech, made in a renewable energy powered factory and audited for a wide range of social and sustainability criteria. It’s worked out more of a partnership than a supplier relationship , with Teemills knowledge and expertise on how we can develop this brand has been critical to our success so far.

IG MA 1. Memorable 2. High Quality 3. Sustainable 4. Accessible 5. Scalable

The output needed to stand up to the above and be special in a very competitive and tough market to break through. It’s crucial we get a balance in everything we do. It would be easy to focus one way or the other, either high quality clothing that you are proud of and want to wear or focusing on the impact you could make in the Mental Health arena. Great products but no or little impact or large impact dreams but no voice or scale to make it work. We are looking to make an impact in 4 main areas when it comes to Mental Health 1. Raise Awareness of the importance of Mental Health provisions and support. 2. Financial impact by donations from profits 3. Be part of communities within social media that will help each other 4. A place on our site for people to read blogs, get recipes, find charities and ultimately find help if they need it.

FEATURE | BIG MAN BEARD

THIS REALLY GAVE US TIME TO FOCUS ON THE PRODUCTS THEMSELVES FOCUSING ON 5 KEY AREAS

NOW WE ARE UP AND RUNNING WE LIVE BY THE FOLLOWING We’re building a brand that really means something, a brand that cares. It is no longer about the hoodie or the t-shirt you are wearing but represents so much more. To incite positive conversations around mental health, helping people to open up to each other, gain the strength to seek help and know help is there. THE PIPELINE AND FUTURE OF BIG MAN BEARD LOOKS BRIGHT AND A FEW THINGS WE ARE WORKING ON · We are working on other product offerings to complement the clothing and brand such as Beard Care ranges, accessories, gym bags etc. · We are working on a Podcast currently with a mixture of people’s stories and how they cope, interviewing those who are campaigning for better Mental Health support & even working on getting celebrities to open up about their struggles with Mental Health. · We are also looking at expanding our offering as currently we only sell direct to consumer but we are now seeking wholesale opportunities via Barbershops and Beardy businesses alike. If you’re interested please get in touch. wholesale@bigmanbeard.com

Parts 3 & 4 are a work in progress with content being reviewed and published each day. It will take time and a community of involvement to make the real impact we would like.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY BROKE ELBANK

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BY SCOTT MAGGS

IT HAS BEEN A LONG JOURNEY FOR THIS LUSCIOUS SET OF CHIN LOCKS. SOME MAY CALL IT STUBBORNNESS. OTHERS... ABSOLUTELY HAIRBRAIN. BUT THERE IS NO DOUBT IT'S WORKED. BECOMING SO MUCH MORE THAN AN EXTENDED AVERSION TO THE CREAMY GLINT OF A BARBER'S RAZOR. A BEARD WHICH NOW SAVES MORE THAN A LIFE A WEEK. Meet Jimmy Niggles Esq. A dear friend of The Cutthroat Journal who you may well recognise as the gold bloke on the cover of one of our first editions. For the past nine years this country bloke from Oberon has been growing his beard to encourage people to get a skin check for melanoma - something which killed his mate Wes Bonny in the prime of his life at the age of 26.

It started as a random idea which he and his mates came up with at Wes' wake around a table full of schooners. Its aim is to turn those most at risk into advocates for early detection. Doing so with a wooly winter challenge called Beard Season, where gentlemen are challenged to commit to getting a skin check, growing their beards from June till the end of August, and then using their beards as life saving conversation starters. Challenging their friends, family, work and team mates to get a skin check too. After the first year Jimmy (who's real name happens to be Scott John Maggs) had messages from five or six people saying his beard just saved their life. So, Jimmy kept growing. With his beard becoming a daily reminder staring at him in the mirror each morning to keep the idea and the power of a beard alive. Fast forward nine years and this random pub brainstorm has turned into a global movement. Attracting the support of names like Sir. Richard Branson, Chris Hemsworth and Hamish Blake - who MC'd a party for the charity on a pirate ship last year during a wild storm on Sydney Harbour.

The goal of Beard Season is to run the world's first targeted national skin check program. Bringing skin specialists to pop-up clinics at events, festivals and sports games around the country - particularly regional areas where people are days from their nearest doctor. Jimmy and his team have been trialling this concept for the past five years, and this year, at the inaugural Barber Expo in Brisbane, Beard Season brought skin checks to the barbers... in what we reckon is another world first!

FEATURE | BEARD SEASON

THE END IS NIGH

Along with Dr. Olivia, in a marquee on the top floor, the Beard Season team checked around 60 people, finding six suspect lesions. That's six suss looking spots which could have turned nasty if they weren't identified and referred. A skill Jimmy hopes to one day be able to formally pass on to barbers and hair stylists in partnership with training institutions. Something his own barber, Tommy J in Redfern, has done on many occasions. The most recent featuring on Beard Season's instagram with a hashtag that'll really blow your hair back... #BeardSeasonVictories. Check it out. If that doesn't inspire you to get involved we don't know what will. To pay for all this, Jimmy is trying to sell his beard by the end of summer. Yep. The whole thing. Off in one piece to be mounted in a glass case (and no doubt placed alongside Pharlap's heart). For... the princely sum of one million dollars. When the charity hits this target it will fund around 10,000+ skin checks. Estimated to save at least 1,500 lives. Worth it right?!

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FEATURE | BEARD SEASON

TO GET INVOLVED, JIMMY HAS FOUR CHALLENGES FOR YOU: • Book yourself in for a skin check • Let @BeardSeason know how you go on instagram with a pic • Challenge your customers to do the same • Start your own fundraiser at beardseason.com to add to the million dollar tally. If every barber in every shop who reads this article got involved we could really help tackle our 'national cancer' and self fund a training program for you all to learn about what to look for. Not only saving the lives of your clients, but the lives of your friends and family too could really help tackle our 'national cancer' and self fund a training program for you all to learn about what to look for. Not only saving the lives of your clients, but the lives of your friends and family too.

Or... if you want to make some money yourself, why not stock and sell their Million Dollar Beard Oil. Voted in its debut year as one of the best in the world. Defeating Beckham and Tom Ford's product at the Swedish Beauty awards. It's the only one made with a carefully considered mix including frankincense, vetiver, Australian sandalwood, ylang ylang, seaweed and 23 carat gold flakes which dissolve when pressed between your palms. Leaving a beard beaming and glorious like an adored, champion lifesaver - which it technically has just become. MILLION DOLLAR BEARD OIL IS A SIGNATURE EDITION MADE BY THE ONE AND ONLY CAPTAIN FAWCETT IN THE UK. DISTRIBUTED BY BARBER BRANDS AND OTHER FINE RETAILERS. AVAILABLE IN A 50ML KING SIZE OR 20ML TRAVEL SIZE.

TO GET INVOLVED IN THE CHARITY, SAY GDAY@BEARDSEASON.COM

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TH E BAR BE R EX P O 2 0 1 9 BY JEREMY WALL

And that’s a wrap! Australia’s first Barber Expo is done and dusted, an event that brought the industry together from far and wide. The two days were filled with product showcases, professional workshops, leading industry speaker sessions and demonstrations. The Expo also played host to the 2019 ‘Barber Brands Barber of the Year Competition’ – a national barbering skills competition. This year saw some of Australia’s most talented barbers performing at their best in the hotly contested competition. Leigh Winsor from Area Studio Melbourne took the top spot with his striking contemporary cut and style. Brisbane boys Callum James Johnson and Xavier Pina Silva took out 2nd and 3rd places. Also taking place on the Saturday night of expo was the Proraso Beard and Moustache competition. The exciting and entertaining night, put together by the wonderful people from Bearded Men of the Sunshine Coast, saw some excellently maintained and outlandishly styled facial hair on display. After the competition the drinks began to flow and in standard barber fashion the party continued long into the night, with

local rockers West Texas Crude putting on a great live show. The event was held at the amazing Smoked Garage, in Brisbane’s bustling creative hub, Fortitude Valley. Smoked offered up a delicious selection of food and drinks for all the attendees in their unique venue, as well as a much needed coffee the morning after! A huge thank you must go out to Shane and Dean from Smoked Garage for being so accommodating. This event is something that many in the barber community have been calling for and was finally made a reality in collaboration with The Cutthroat Journal, Barber Brands International and Jimmy Rods. The intention was to create an event that nurtures continued growth and development of the barbering industry, right now and continuing into the future. The Barber Expo will be returning in 2020 so make sure you’re connected to The Cutthroat Journal’s online and social media forums for all the latest updates on next year’s event!

"This is what the Australian barber scene needed! Fantastic Weekend"

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EVENTS | THE BARBER EXPO 2019

THE CUTTHROAT JOURNAL IS EXCITED TO BE HOLDING THE BARBER EXPO IN THREE VENUES FOR 2020. MEATSTOCK NEW ZEALAND 15-16TH FEBRUARY, SMOKED GARAGE BRISBANE 21ST JUNE AND MARRICKVILLE TOWN HALL IN SYDNEY 18TH - 19TH JULY. SEE YOU THERE!

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EVENTS | THE BARBER EXPO 2019

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BEARDS A 'PLENTY AT BARBER EXPO BY JEREMY WAL L | SP O NSO RED BY PR O RA SO

Following a fantastic day 1 of the inaugural Barber Expo, the festivities continued into the night with hairy blokes from all over South-East Queensland gathering at the Smoked Garage for the Proraso Beard and Moustache Competition. The competition featured some wonderfully elaborate and meticulously maintained facial hair, with Isabella from Proraso Australia, Jimmy Niggles of Beard Season and Brisbaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Jimmy Rod given the difficult task of judging. Todd Owen was crowned the freestyle winner with his horn-shaped masterpiece (image below). The event was run by Bearded Men of the Sunshine Coast in collaboration with Cutthroat and Proraso, with Club Secretary, Greta, doing a wonderful job as Emcee. Barbers from all over who had come for the Expo stuck around to enjoy the Saturday night, check out the competition and party into the night. Following the competition there was great live music from West Text Crude and free flowing drinks, including a keg of Luxe Brewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicious espresso martini kindly put on by Justin Metcalf, giving familiar and new faces of the industry the pick-me-up needed to let their hair down and have some fun after a long day of expo.

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EVENTS | THE BARBER EXPO 2019 WHILE PRORASO MAY BE BEST KNOWN FOR THEIR PROFESSIONAL SHAVING LINE, THEIR RANGE ALSO INCLUDES A LINE OF HIGH QUALITY BEARD GROOMING PRODUCTS. OVER THEIR LONG HISTORY, PRORASO HAS DEVELOPED A COMPLETE RANGE OF PRODUCTS FOR ALL THINGS FACIAL HAIR; WHETHER YOU’RE LETTING IT GROW OR SHAVING IT OFF. FROM CLEANSING BEARD WASH, TO NOURISHING OILS AND BALMS IN A NUMBER OF ALLURING SCENTS, PRORASO’S START-TO-FINISH BEARD CARE LEAVES EVEN THE MOST UNRULY FACIAL HAIR FEELING GREAT AND LOOKING COMPETITION-READY.

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B OTY

EVENTS | BARBER OF THE YEAR 2019

BARBER OF THE YEAR LEIGH WINSOR AT THE BARBER EXPO 2019 BY A BBE Y H A N N A N

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EVENTS | FEIBI

FEIBI Awards 2019 FEMALE EXCELLENCE IN BARBERING INDUSTRY

In September this year a groundbreaker smashed a stereotype. For the first time in barbering history in Australia an all Female Barbering Competition took place. This historic inaugural event became reality after 3 women in the Barbering Industry a year ago locked plans and sat down at the Powerhouse Museum in Brisbane to talk possibility. Shella Thornton, Collette Saunders and Danielle Hannah already had in their mindseye a Competition platform for Female Barbers in Australia. A not for profit event that would launch women in the barbering industry, while raising funds for The Jack Reed Foundation whose vision is to provide Barbering Apprenticeships for at risk and homeless youth. A location was secured by Shella and sponsors were ready to come on board. The event would be taking place at Matters In Gray Training Facility in Brisbane on 28 September 2019. The Finalists, were all industry qualified barbers, and were chosen after entering online photographs or videos of their work to Shella by DM @__feibi__ They were then given email notifications by @__feibi__ and social media @ australianfemalebarbers who had been following them, and hundreds of their industry peers, introduced them to Australia. The first group of finalists for this Inaugural Event were set. Rules and regulations followed with a 6 week time frame for preparation. Finalists from Darwin in the north to Adelaide in the south were preparing to battle it out. The day began with competitors arriving at 4pm with their models. An exciting moment for all, as only seeing each other on social media, none of them nor the event organizers had ever met before. The first thing noticed, apart from the nerves, was the sense of excitement and support for each other in the room. These women who had never met before were instantly

connecting and calming each other’s anxieties. So inspirational to see. The Competition floor saw 2 categories for each finalist. A traditional men’s cut and a beard shape and line up. They were split into 2 heats. Ten finalists in the first, nine in the second giving each a break between heats while the others competed. The atmosphere on the floor and from the sidelines was electric and vocal. The heats were streamed live by @ australianfemalebarbers showing the huge support and top shelf work of these women. The music pumped with playlists gathered from the finalists themselves to create a happy relaxed audio interpretation of how they felt about the night. The prize pool was 10/10 with offerings from Andis, Barberbrands International, ICandy Scissors, MT Morgan Taylor Gelish and Beauty Pro Global bringing a total of over $7000 in prizes. Mark and Vicki Konrad owners of @icandyscissorsaustralia and David Morton of @barberbrandsinternational with his team Maya and Annie were all there to support. ICandy and BBI are also proud sponsors of The Jack Reed Foundation, who were also there on the night making sure things ran smoothly. JRF CEO’s Danielle Hannah and Teresa Reed were on deck with Teresa handling the bar ensuring the drinks flowed steadily, and Danielle ever present as a floor judge for the competition alongside David D’Annunzio a trainer from MIG Training and a talented barber himself. David was also the MC on the floor for the evening taking charge of the microphone.

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The judging also included “blind judging” which meant that 3 judges were in a green room waiting for the models whom they had not seen until the heat was over. Mark Rabone owner of Esquire Male Grooming, a veteran barber, a judge familiar in the American Crew All-Star Events and also at Barber Expo and BHBE competitions. The other two judges were female barbers who are making waves of their own in the industry. Stacey Edwards, owner of two Memphis Barbers locations in Gympie, and an advocate for mental health and community. Julia Frank, an accomplished barber in Maroochydore, with a solid understanding of technique and the barbering craft. With the evening flowing well there were also surprises for the audience with goody bags donated from BBI and ICandy and lucky door prizes including a Barber Art Auction with pieces framed by AFB by the artist Natasha Zeleg @art_by_nz based in Scotland. The auction raised $300 with these funds going straight to JRF. The lucky door prizes, picked especially for the girls were donated, including Brisbane’s premier cosmetic clinic, “Perfectly Smooth” and Brisbane’s Brow and Lash Queen Kiyomi of “The Brow Bakery”. A beautiful display of braiding technique from the talented Brisbane hair artist Lama Ramode @lamasbraids was the finale of the evening while the judges deliberated in the green room. Lama’s expertise and stage presence showing the intricacy of what is now creeping into the barbering domain was definitely something that the audience was keen to see and learn from. The evening ended around 10pm with judges presented and thanked by the finalists and audience applause. The amazing women whose meticulous work had been scrutinized were highly anticipating the outcome. Shella and Collette, who were unaware of who the winners were until handed the judging sheet, jointly announced them from 3rd to 1st place. Third Sarah Wall @sarahwall_industries Second Alex Amaya @tinywonder_ thebarber First Laura Branford @laura_heartsandminds. To quote Collette “It was like a proud mother moment.

EVENTS | FEIBI

THESE WOMEN WHO HAD NEVER MET BEFORE WERE INSTANTLY CONNECTING AND CALMING EACH OTHERS ANXIETIES. SO INSPIRATIONAL TO SEE."

talented ladies. To be so surprised by the results was a very moving moment and one that I will always remember as the first of many more to come”. The winners were all rewarded with beautifully engraved glass trophies and prize packs. One huge highlight of Laura’s first place achievement, and part of the First Prize Pack, was her winning an all expenses paid trip to Taiwan to compete on an international stage representing herself and Australia against 30 - 40 other competitors. She will accompany Shella, who will be there showcasing her skills on stage for Andis as a Global Educator. This is an amazing addition to Laura’s portfolio and will place her in a new direction for her career should she wish to pursue it. As the night ended and the clean up began all finalists were invited to an after party with a bar tab set up thanks to Ben De Campo owner of Milkman Grooming Company and AFB at the Beach House Deck Bar across from the event. Many Merlots, a scotch or two, the odd Vodka and several Sauvignon Blanc later and the show was over. The week that followed was one of reflection and forward planning. The excitement of the winning finalists, the thankfulness of the other competitors to be able to be involved in this event rang home. The feedback was positive and encouraging. Of course there were teething problems, a few wrinkles in the fabric, and that is what it’s all about. Learning curves that are an important part of anything worthwhile. The next Feibi event was already in the planning before the first one ended, and reflecting on the success of this Australian First Event, there will be excited anticipation of the 2nd FEIBI Awards, which will be everything and more than the first. Stay tuned for next year. Bring on FEIBI Awards 2020.

For so long I have followed the work of all of these incredibly

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1 . C A PTA I N M O N K E Y PA N TS

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C U LT U R E | A R T

2. 3. 4. 5.

CORTEZ KING CHILLI CHARLES JIMMY BEARDSON BIG EYE ELLIS

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PHOTO BY RAÃ&#x161;L ORTIZ DE LEJARAZU MACHIN

6. VINCENT THE VIKING 7. BEE BEARD M U L G A T H E A R T I S T. C O M . A U

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C U LT U R E | A R T

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HOT STUFF Our Summer Picks!

DEADLY APPAREL

M/SF/T (MAD MINDS) Our 'Marvelettes Boardshort' in Pattern features a variety of yardage prints, left leg woven label, fixed waistband, gusseted fly, centre front eyelet tabs, draw-cord with metal aglets, back pocket with velcro opening. Constructed from a cotton/elastane lightweight canvas & finished with premium trims.

Travel far and wide in one of the most trend setting fabrics in Australia... Corduroy!

@DEADLYAPPAREL DEADLYAPPAREL.COM.AU

@MISFITSHAPES SHOP.MISFITSHAPES.COM

THE SNAKE HOLE Only one way to go, never look back. The scent of brand new 100% cotton, the warm plush thickness of reinforced foot beds. You can’t tell us there’s a better feeling on earth than the first time you break open a fresh pair of feet cosies.

PARAFINA CO. Two recycled water bottles have allowed us to create an exclusive model that maintains the resistance and flexibility of the plastic.

@PARAFINACO.AUS.NZ ARONUICOLLECTIONS.COM.AU

@THESNAKEHOLE THESNAKEHOLE.COM 92

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Sweatshop approved!

C U LT U R E | H O T S T U F F

SUCRE SKATEBOARDS

@LOBSTERSHANTY WWW.LOBSTERSHANTY.COM.AU

LOBSTER SHANTY Shirts of Tropical Leisure. Lightweight 100% Rayon fabric with custom print, pearl buttons, labels. @SUCRESKATEBOARDING SUCRESUPPLY.COM

@CAYE.LIFE WWW.CAYELIFE.COM.AU

BILLY BONES CLUB It’s straight forward, it’s functional, it's not trying to be anything you’re not, the Black Betty Fedora is the peoples hat. Wear it simple, wear it proud, wear you.

CAYE LIFE Inspired by the magnificent Galapagos Islands in the Pacific Ocean, it will be your ultimate buddy for adventures in the great outdoors. It’s made from high-food grade stainless steel and double-walled, so your drinks will taste great and stay their optimum temperature for hours.

@BILLYBONESCLUB WWW.BILLYBONESCLUB.COM.AU

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THE BAND CALLED

LOSER

PHOTOGRAPH BY LUKE HENERY

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C U LT U R E | M U S I C

MINDLESS JOY FULL ALBUM OUT 2020 VIA DOMESTIC LA LA

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WORDS WITH CRISTIAN CAMPANO

FIRST OF ALL, WHO’S IN THE BAND? AND HOW DID YOU ALL MEET? Hi! The band is Cristian Campano (Vocals/guitar), Jayden Heaney (Guitar/vocals), Peter Gill (Bass) and Jarin Penniall (drums). I met Jarin at a cafe and then we met Jayden and Pete around the traps at various social gatherings. We all got on like a house on fire so we started jamming and came up with a bunch of neat songs. SO, I BET YOU GET THIS ALL THE TIME BUT WHAT IS THE IDEA BEHIND THE NAME SCUFFS? We just liked the word and then it kinda just stuck. Think we had a bunch of other band names and it just didn't fit. Actually 'Tuck Shop' was one that was kinda funny but once we started jamming we came back to Scuffs. SCUFFS ARE PRETTY NEW AS A BAND. A MASSIVE CONGRATULATIONS ON ALREADY SMASHING IT! AND PULLING A SPOT AT FESTIVAL OF THE SUN. HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT? Thanks! Yeah we went and recorded 2 singles with Michael Lynch in Beechwood a month ago which was rad then sent them to our friend Lachy West from the band Walk The Moon to mix and master. We were really stoked with the result so we sent the singles to the crew at Festival Of The Sun and they loved them so they squeezed us onto the lineup as the local band. We are super stoked to be playing FOTSUN.

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LOVE YOUR NEW SINGLE ‘DOWNER’, WHAT’S THE STORY BEHIND THIS SONG OTHER THAN “PLEASE DON’T BRING ME DOWN”? The song 'Downer' is about people who try and pull all the energy out of us. Like those friends who whinge and whine about their lives and who try and get you to problem solve all their shit. Basically it's like a big 'fuck you' to those people and to try to be the person we want to be without all the bullshit bringing you down. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE SCUFFS SOUND? Scuffs have a lot of influences but our sound comes out sounding a bit 90's power pop with lashings of garage rock with a bit of grunge thrown in. Everyone in the band listens to different stuff but we all like pop music to some extent. When I wrote a bunch of our latest set I tried to make sure the songs were catchy then when we added some heavier sounds and garage rock elements it completed the sound. ANY INTERESTING THINGS HAPPENING ON THE HORIZON FOR SCUFFS? We're just focusing on playing loads of shows to tighten up our live set. Then we'll head into the studio again and try and record a bunch more songs and release an EP early next year sometime. We're working on a sweet film clip for our 'Downer' single in the coming weeks too which should be pretty fun to do. We're filming in an old Chinese restaurant which looks super cool 80's style so we're excited about getting that out too.

C U LT U R E | M U S I C

PHOTOGRAPH BY TIM HELMY

@SCUFFSBAND LISTEN TO DOWNER ON SPOTIFY | ITUNES | APPLE MUSIC

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M ADDI S ON DA R C EY TATTOO ARTIST INTERVIEW BY ABBEY HANNAN

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN TATTOOING FOR? WHAT MADE YOU GET INTO TATTOOING? I’ve been tattooing for about 5 years now. Growing up I was always around art as my mum is an artist and author, so my interest in art just came naturally. My interest in tattooing however came about around year 10 in high school, I began watching Miami Ink and I thought to myself, wow this is so cool, I want to do this. I KNOW YOUR MUM IS A REAL LOVER OF ALL FLOWERS AND PLANTS, HAS SHE BEEN A REAL INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE? HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE? Yes, she has influenced me, my interest and love of flowers and plants has come directly from the knowledge and passion she has. I would describe my style as being rooted in a traditional aesthetic, but with a bit more detail and bright bold colours. IS THERE A DIRECTION IN YOUR CAREER OR STYLE YOU’D LIKE TO EXPLORE? I do quite like the direction my work is heading currently, I’d like to further explore more floral and animal imagery in my work as I find it so interesting and enjoyable to tattoo. WHAT’S THE MOST OBSCURE TATTOO YOU’VE EVER DONE? And wow, that’s always such a tough question, I find myself forgetting them as time goes by, but one of the ones that has stuck out as both obscure and humorous was a request for a koala riding a surf board smoking a joint. IS THERE ANYTHING YOU’D REFUSE TO TATTOO ON SOMEONE? ANY BAD EXPERIENCES? Honestly the big ones myself and any other decent tattooer would refuse is anything on the hands, neck and face. In our society these are still considered “job stopper” tattoos, but as well as this they are tattoos that are seen, should be earnt, they should be the last places to be tattooed after the rest of your body.

WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST REACTION YOU’VE EVER HAD? The weirdest, and hardest reaction to deal with, happened in about my second year of tattooing. I had a client who most definitely could not handle the pain, both physically and mentally. I was tattooing her last name in large bold old English lettering from shoulder to shoulder on her back. About two letters in she began to jump and squirm and become quite vocal. When you tattoo you tattoo from right to left, so I basically had to get through this tattoo or let her leave with only the last two letters of her last name. Her squirming, jumping and vocal noises became progressively worse, and it was the hardest three hours of tattooing I’ve ever been through. It made me question my passion for tattooing…. Luckily these clients are not the norm. TATTOOING CAN BE A VERY STRESSFUL CAREER AS YOU DON’T WANT TO FUCK UP. HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH THAT, DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS? When I first started tattooing I found it very nerve-racking, the idea of doing something so permanent on someone. But as the years have gone I honestly don’t stress about that part of it that much. I definitely still think about it, but more in terms of trying to give my client the best possible tattoo that I think they will love for the rest of their life. DO YOU THINK ART IS A GOOD RESOURCE FOR POSITIVE MENTAL HEALTH? Art is a great outlet! Whether you’re typically “good” at it or even if it’s just colouring in, it’s a fantastic way to take sometime out for yourself and express yourself in a positive way. I’ve always found that when I’m feeling down or stressed, painting or drawing just relaxes me. It’s my happy space. SO, I SEE YOU’VE BEEN TO BOTH THE 2018 AND THE 2019 AUSTRALIAN TATTOO EXPO IN SYDNEY, HOW WAS THAT EXPERIENCE? WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE PART? Doing the past Australian Tattoo Expos, and The Rites of Passage Festival more recently, have been an awesome experience. To get out amongst so many talented artists is always a great learning experience, as well as a fun social experience. It’s a great chance to meet new people, both tattooers and clients, and that’s my favourite part. THANKS FOR THE CHAT MADDI

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C U LT U R E | T A T T O O A R T I S T

Whistler St Tattoo 5/18 Whistler Street Manly NSW 2095, Australia Instagram@madditattoo | madditattoo@gmail.com

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There’s no denying New Zealand loves its music and barbecue, so Meatstock Auckland is back again in its fourth instalment of excessive meat and rockin blues. The sell-out festival will be returning to its NZ home, the ASB Showground, on the 15th-16th of February with tickets on sale soon at https://meatstock.com.au/. Meatstock will be hosting some of the juiciest names in the music and BBQ scene. This year’s headliner is the legendary roots rockers, Katchafire, who are sure to get the crowd pumping and when it comes to big time barbecue masters, get ready to welcome back our favourite personality Big Moe Cason, new to Meatstock American pitmaster, Mike Johnson and “Queen of Fire”, Paula Labaki. Big Moe who has now competed in over 250 competitions across the states, will be hosting the hugely popular Texan BBQ Masterclasses. Always up for a fan pic, you won’t miss his smiling face wandering through the festival over the weekend. Festival Directors are super excited to welcome Mike Johnson to the line up, heralding from St. Louis’ Sugarfire Smoke House, an award-winning restaurant, with thirteen locations (and counting). Not only has Sugarfire continuously won the title of best barbecue in St. Louis, but Mike himself has also taken home trophies at the 2014, 2015 and 2018 Memphis in May World Championships, plus 3rd in the 2015 World Food Championship for Bacon. This man knows his meat.

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Queen Paula, is one of the first pitmasters in Brazil, and is now a house-hold name having been a consultant on the Brazilian Masterchef and being part of the jury in the TV show, BBQ Brazil. A vivacious personality, Paula will certainly inspire fire in the New Zealand barbecue scene. Over 50 teams from across New Zealand and counting will be battling it out at the fourth Meatstock NZ Barbecue Wars for $15,000 in cash and prizes and more importantly to be crowned the best barbecuers in the land. And our favourite butchers are back, going head to head to win NZ’s best in the biz. What is sure to be a hit is the inaugural NZ Sausage Sizzle Throwdown! Professionals (yes, there are competitive rankings) will go up against anyone to compete for $1,500 cash and a multitude of prizes. THE 2-DAY LINE-UP ALSO INCLUDES TEXAS PETE'S BBQ SHOWDOWN WITH 4 OF THE BEST TEAMS IN NZ, ROD + CUSTOM RUMBLE, FREE RIDES FOR THE KIDS, BARBECUE EXPO, LIVE ART, REFRESHMENTS BY LIBERTY BREWING AND JACK DANIELS, PLUS MORE.

EAT | MEATSTOCK

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Pit Boss at Red Gum BBQ MARTIN GOFFIN It was in 2002 that Martin Goffin fell in love with Southern-style BBQ on a trip to the US to visit his (now) wife Melissa. The couple travelled from Florida to Georgia, South Carolina and Tennessee – visiting family, experiencing Southern hospitality and igniting in Martin a passion for BBQ that became an obsession and led him to his current title - Cofounder and “Pit Boss” - of Red Gum BBQ on the Mornington Peninsula. Martin and Melissa opened the Red Hill restaurant in January 2017, a BBQ and craft beer joint, traditional in Southern US-style from wooden bench communal tables, meat served by weight on share trays and its location behind a main road gas station. Since opening its doors, and introducing the ‘low and slow’ cooking style to the Victorian wine region, Red Gum BBQ has become Australia’s first B-corporation certified restaurant and the largest barbeque restaurant in the country. In 2016, in preparation for the restaurant launch, Martin completed a stint at Southern Living’s ‘Best BBQ Joint in the South’, Southern Soul BBQ on St Simons Island, Georgia for insights into scaling their existing business before heading back to Australia to open Red Gum BBQ in Red Hill. But it was back in Australia in the years that followed that first visit that the couple’s tiny backyard in St Kilda became Martin’s test kitchen for the perfect ribs and BBQ sauce and where he shared these with grateful friends. And in 2012, while on paternity leave from his local government job, almost 10 years after his first, impressionable bite of pulled pork in Melissa’s hometown of Miami, that Martin decided that his love of BBQ and sharing with friends and family was his future.

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And it was across those next years, on the road and at pop-ups across the Mornington Peninsula and Melbourne, that Martin served low and slow US-style BBQ food from a 3m x 3m marquee and a trailer with a Texas offset smoker, earning his stripes as a Pitmaster and a following of loyal Red Gum BBQ devotees who went where he did and showed up when the couple finally opened their giant roller doors and lit the fires at their new home in Red Hill, Victoria. A celebration of locality, the menu Martin has put together connects authentic Southern-style food and processes with its Australian locale - showcasing local and ethical farmers, wineries and breweries. The wood that fuels his custom, offset smokers – affectionately named ‘Dolly, Willie & Patsy’ – is locally grown Red Gum rather than the hickory and mesquite you’ll find in the United States. All these elements, in addition to the restaurant’s sustainable practices, are what have earned the restaurant’s B-corp certification.

Martin’s passion for food, relentless hard work and desire for excellence, alongside Melissa, has made Red Gum BBQ a local icon and has secured Martin’s status as one of the forefathers of this now booming BBQ food scene. These days Martin continues to share his knowledge through Pitmaster, Masterclasses at the Red Hill venue, through his Youtube channel and at speaking engagements across BBQ and food events. Martin was recently invited to attend a BBQ festival in the US where he smoked alongside a group of BBQ’s most revered Pitmasters. Flame, flavour and family are the happy constants in the life of this Pit Boss, who is living his dream and planning for a future that’s full of smoke.

EAT | RED GUM BBQ

" MARTIN’S PASSION FOR FOOD, RELENTLESS HARD WORK AND DESIRE FOR EXCELLENCE, ALONGSIDE

MELISSA, HAS MADE RED GUM BBQ A LOCAL ICON AND HAS SECURED MARTIN’S STATUS AS ONE OF THE FOREFATHERS OF THIS NOW BOOMING BBQ FOOD SCENE. "

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American Barber Haircare

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