The Cutthroat Journal #18 by The Cutthroat Journal

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WO R K H A R D E R , N OT S M A RT E R

Walk-In Manager

Cloud Appointment Book and Reporting

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Sean Edwards sean@thecutthroatjournal.com

Robert Marlowe rob.marlowe@thecutthroatjournal.com +61 404 837 608

Abbey Hannan abbey@thecutthroatjournal.com

Kathryn Kraska

info@thecutthroatjournal.com

@thebarbellbarber

Jimmy O'Brien @jimmyrods Dan Dixon @misterdandixon Sandy Chong @austhaircouncil Clea Harbison @shortcuts_aus Mikey Denton @mikeydenton Leigh Winsor @thebarbellbarber

S T A Y

C O N N E C T E D

No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by Cutthroat and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of the Cutthroat Journal, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this journal by individuals and the Cutthroat Journal are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. The Cutthroat Journal takes no responsibility for any action taken by others as a result of the content of this site.

Osaka CXS Thinners Hair Removal Ratio : 30% Teeth: Curved Handle: Classic Level Set (flip and use both ways) Material: High Carbon Hitachi Steel Size (inches) : 6 Right Hand

Osaka MT All rounder (including scissor over comb) Handle: 3D ErgonomicÂ Material : VG10 CobaltÂ Size (inches): 5.5, 6, 6.5 Right Hand

PURCHASE COMBO

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TRENDS

INDUSTRY Bleeding Edge — Barber Brands 10 An open letter to the industry — Editorial

Barber Banter — Editorial 16 Business End — Editorial 20 The core of creativity — Advertorial

The Barber Of The Year — Article 56

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Hot Topics — Advertorial 23 Creative Cuts — Editorial 24 Party in the back — Editorial

Cross over education in America — Editorial

What's new! — Products Reviews

FEATURES

M e n ' s

The Beginning — Feature Article Project 100 — Feature Article

T R A D E

J O U R N A L

Stronger Together — Feature Article Living for today — Feature Advertorial

c u l t u r e // B A R B E R

52 54 58

To Cut Or Not To Cut — Feature Article

Motorcycles are the answer — Feature Advertorial

The Good Old Soul Barbershop — Barber Feature

King Brown "Back Your Barber" — Feature Article

Sydney Barbers — Barber Feature

CULTURE

Luke Munn — Feature Article

COVER STORY The Covid issue Can we take this opportunity to give much thanks and huge kudos to Leigh Winsor, winner of 2019 Barber Expo and the model on our front cover. As this issue was produced during an unprecedented period of time, we wanted to portray the fear and anxiety aroused by the Covid-19 pandemic, yet in keeping with all that has gone before us still be uber cool and evocative. Photo by Leigh Winsor @thebarbellbarber

Cutting Edge — Cultured Products

Ben Brown — Artist

Amy Gardner— Artist

Pist Idiots — Music

King Coyote — Music

Things to do while in quarantine — Article

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PUBLISHER NOTE. SEAN EDWARDS Hi all, I don’t have to explain how much trouble the Barber industry is in at the moment and how our choices to stay safe and healthy in this space is a major challenge to all. The Cutthroat Journal is also running on thin air and if it was not for some dedicated staff and some government handouts we would also be finished. Everybody has a personal sad story about their situation, but we all know it’s not forever. I decided from the start of this pandemic that we would be the communication for the industry at all costs, people need to know that there is some hope out there and life will eventually return back to some type of normality. We have used our time wisely and taken to our digital formats to help spread positive vibes to those who have reached out for help. We have chosen for this issue to be released in digital format to make us viable and sustainable for when the pandemic is over. So, you won’t see a printed magazine this time, but we will have the same info and fun topics we always provide. We have leaned on the clever people in our industry to give us all the survival tips on rebuilding your businesses for a strong future. Many Barbers have been forced to shut their doors around the world with the social distancing models challenging us. Now we are seeing the virus case numbers falling, it is a relief to see businesses reopen. I have kept my pledge to good mate Jimmy Rods to let him maintain my hair for 2020 and with NSW boarder lockdowns I am now one of those 1970’s shaggy “Barber Busters”. I am currently enjoying the long hair but am sure I will eventually get back into the chair. I am one of many sporting this shaggy look, so businesses should come back with a boom when us old Hippies have to resurface and do face to face business meetings.

SEAN EDWARDS SPORTING THE 'SHAGGY LOOK' We have postponed the Barber Expo for a few months until we can all gather again, and our venues and sponsors have been very accommodating with the changes. All education seminars will be honored and those who have pre-paid will be rewarded by our team in a special way. To make some fun and keep us busy we have banded together with some of our loyal suppliers and will be running an Online Barber competition where Barbers can compile their contest heat via video. This will be judged by the consumer through our social platforms, so we would like to see some creativity emerge from the industry whilst people are isolated. We have a great prize pool and are super excited about this fun competition, so please get involved, if you have not competed before we would love to see some new blood out there. This is also a great way to showcase your business to thousands of industry people around the world. Finally, I would like to extend an invitation to everyone out there who has a story to tell about their life, business, new ventures etc, to please share it with us, as we would love to hear from you and assist where necessary. Please stay safe and protect one another.

PRESENTS

AUSTRALIA’S

EXHIBITION

• LIVE BARBER of the year COMP • BEARD & MOUSTACHE COMP • STALLS • BARBER BUSINESS PANEL • SPEAKER SESSIONS • EDUCATIONAL WORKSHOPS • MUSIC FOOD BEER!

4TH OCTOBER 2020 THE SMOKED GARAGE FORTITUDE VALLEY , QLD 24TH - 25TH OCTOBER 2020 MARRICKVILLE TOWN HALL MARRICKVILLE , NSW TICKETS AVAILABLE AT WWW.THECUTTHROATJOURNAL.COM the cutthroat journal

WWW.BARBER

BRANDS.COM

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OPEN LETTER TO THE INDUSTRY. BY Sandy Chong AHC CEO

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INDU STRY | An op en letter

At the time of being asked to contribute to The Cutthroat Journal, the AHC had been consistently lobbying to keep barbering and hairdressing on the Skills Migration List for barbers in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. The decision from the Department of Home Affairs was scheduled to be announced on the 31st March. This announcement has been postponed due to the national health crisis, Coronavirus. Lobbying for this cause included 6 meetings at Parliament House plus several ongoing meetings with the Department of Education and Employment and Home Affairs. We attended a Roundtable Meeting with 12 AHC members, plus provided 29 case studies. Minister David Coleman requested a survey with 100 businesses, and so within 1 week we supplied him with a survey with 219 respondents. The AHC created a petition and has over 5,000 signatures, we also sent a press release to the Federal Press Gallery, TV and Radio. This press release led to barbers and hairdressers being interviewed by A Current Affair in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Unfortunately, this was the week before the Coronavirus hit our country and as you know, right now all current news is about Covid-19.

"OUR INDUSTRY IS HURTING AND HURT PEOPLE HURT PEOPLE. WE NEED TO BE UNITED"

Over the month of March, our industry was caught up in a war of businesses deciding to close and businesses deciding to trade. The lack of a Government directive to close in this health crisis has led to an emotionally charged industry.

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Following is an Open Letter to the Industry. AN INDUSTRY DIVIDED At the moment our industry is dividedâ&#x20AC;Śand it is tearing us all apart. Since March the Coronavirus has changed our lives as we know it, careers as we know it, and our businesses. Businesses that were thriving and healthy are now struggling. We are all stressed financially and emotionally, whether you are a salon owner, stylist, apprentice, barber, teacher, college, supplier or any one of our industry stakeholders that service our salons and our industry. Our industry is hurting and hurt people hurt people. We need to be UNITED. This is a time of a health and economic crisis and every single one of us is feeling the stress and anxiety. Hairdressing Government our reasons and reasons financial.

and barbering were not given a directive to shut down. We all have for choosing to be open or closed can be complex, whether personal or

There is no other industry or trade that stayed open for business that blatantly contradicted every directive from the Government to save lives. Only hairdressing and barbering. The Government is clear. The media is clear. Every time you turn on the TV, Radio, Social Media, the message is simple. Practice good hygiene, 1.5m social distancing, no public gatherings and stay home, stay safe and self isolate. Substantial fines and potentially jail is in place if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t follow with these rules. However it was okay to visit a hair salon or barber shop.

"WE ALL HAVE OUR REASONS FOR CHOOSING TO BE OPEN OR CLOSED" 14

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INDU STRY | An op en letter

The mental health of the industry is also a crisis. The knowledge and reality that this is a highly infectious virus that is spread via community transmission adds stress to all of us. Today, there are over 6700 cases of the Coronavirus. How many of these do you think would have visited your salon? So whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the real villain here dividing our industry? Because of these strict Government messages, our industry is pointing the finger at who is open and who is closed. Landlords are accountable for much of the pressure when it comes to salons not being able to shut. A handful have been supportive, but most have been acting with no ethics or compassion. During this pandemic, closed business' rents should also be in hibernation. Every business should look after their employees. But every business is bleeding now. And employees need to understand that their bosses are doing the best that they can. They have bills to pay, rent to pay, outstanding invoices and they always

pay themselves last. In fact most small business owners earn less than their staff. I believe the villain is the Government allowing us to be collateral damage. The National Cabinet is made up of some women who are making decisions based on their own vanity versus our business and mental sanity, as well our own health. Tensions are high. Please stop blaming and pointing fingers on social media to the salons who are open or closed. Please stop blaming your employer for not being able to pay you. Please stop with the private messages calling each other names. Who do you choose to be angry with right now? Who are you directing your anger towards? How does what you choose to do or say impact others? This is NOT our industry! Our world has changed and we are ALL heartbroken right now and in our own way we are all doing our best. When this is all over, and it will be, how will you want to be remembered? I hope you will be remembered for being kind.

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Jimmy talks covid-19 and industry struggles JIMMY O'BRIEN

OWNER OF JIMMY RODS BARBERSHOPS EDUCATION | TRAINING

What the world is going through right now with COVID-19 is extreme, but we have to stay strong and come out through the other end even stronger, as a service based industry reliant on the close contact and fun banter that one experiences when they visit their local barber regularly. Yes, there will be hard times, there will be hard everything, but we must come through this together. Let's stop saying we need to close down this industry now, we just need to follow a process that is being stipulated by our Government during these uncertain times. We also must be mindful that this needs to be done progressively so the economy doesn't take a massive fall similar to that of the great depression, and if you put every hairdresser and barber out of a job right now, what happens to those Centrelink lines, what happens to those paychecks? As heartbreaking as it is, there is a necessity for all businesspeople to immediately decrease wages during this time, given sales have been reduced so dramatically, from 2,500 hours to 1,100 hours of wages paid in one week. This is something that has been so difficult to do in a period of one week's trade, but we have been left with no other option to survive otherwise we may not come out the other side.

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INDU STRY | BARBER BANTER

"LET'S SUPPORT ONE ANOTHER IN THE INDUSTRY AND STAY STRONG"

We need to band together and support small businesses right now. While our clients still have the opportunity to go and get a haircut and make themselves feel good, we should do this for as long as we are able. We will always follow first and foremost what is being implemented by the federal and state governments as a priority. I only allow 6 people in a 50sqm shop currently with the new guidelines in place and customers are required to wait outside until it is their turn. We are also disinfecting each station after every client and enforcing the rule that if any client is not feeling well, don't come in, stop the spread. It's ridiculous that some people are still going out while carrying the virus, if you want to see the curve go down, please stay at home. Follow the guidelines and self isolate for 14 days, just don't go out. We need to adapt, learn how to change in these hard times because if we don't, we are not going to survive and come out the other end strong.

Let the Australian Government timeline plan the shutdown in accordance with what is right for the community and the economy. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slow the process down as much as possible to allow Centrelink to catch up on the unemployment rate that is occurring at the moment. We need to band together at such a difficult time and come out once this is over as a strong leader in the industry, supporting our employees in this unprecedented time that none of us could have ever imagined to be possible. Let's support one another in the industry and stay strong so we can reconvene when we are told it is safe to do so and do it with arms open. To all those in the industry struggling at the moment, I wish you all the best during this very difficult time.

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WRITTEN BY CAITLIN ADAMSON SHORTCUTS Imagine if you had an extra hour every day. What could you do with that time? Squeeze in an extra client or two? Or maybe get to flex your creative muscles on crafting something brand new? Creativity is such a big reason why so many young barbers are chomping at the bit to enter the cutthroat world – it’s one of the few industries where your craft is so damn tangible and rewarding. But without time, creativity can’t thrive to its full potential. That’s when time saving tools come in handy, and boy do Shortcuts have a tech tool or two to help you save time where it matters most so you can get back to what you love doing most. STREAMLINE YOUR QUEUES If you’re a walk-in based barber business, you’ve probably experienced queue craziness and your workflow getting derailed because of it. Streamlining your walk-in business and putting a clearly defined process in place is a sure-fire way to use your time best. The Walk-In Manager compiles a waitlist of your walk-in guests, estimates wait times, lets you know how long clients have been waiting in the queue, and tracks how long they’ve been in-service for. Shortcuts can automatically assign your walk-in guest to the next available service person, or they can request a specific staff member to be assigned to. Your clients can add themselves to the waitlist using the tablet in your waiting area, or straight from their mobile phone via the Mobile Guest App. The realtime integrated Wallboard, powered by the Walk-In Manager, shows details of people currently in the queue, so clients have up-to-the-minute information about how long they can expect to wait. The WalkIn Manager integrates seamlessly with Self-Check In and the Wallboard, working together as one super connected team designed to streamline and supercharge your walk-in management process.

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OFFER ONLINE BOOKINGS If you take appointments in your barber business, one of the quickest, easiest and most 2020 things to do is offer online bookings to your clients. Not only does it open your business up to taking bookings well after hours and on your weekends, but it’s something that’s come to be expected in a fuss-free customer experience. With Shortcuts, you can offer Online Bookings through your website, via your very own app, or even through Google. Online bookings place less strain on your front desk which frees up valuable time where you could be working on your creative projects. REBOOK AND UPSELL WHEN IT MATTERS The moment when your client is parked in your chair, happily sipping on a Stone & Wood and having a chat is hands down the best moment to tick off other steps in the service process. Rebooking their next appointment can all be done from the chair while they finish off their beer using the Cloud Appointment Book. Your barbers can either use their phone or a tablet in your shop, access the Cloud Appointment Book and rebook your guest in an instant. The best part about this is you don’t need to wait until the client goes up to the front desk and is rushing out the door to their next errand for the day. You can weave it into a point in the conversation where it feels timely and your guest is most likely to accept the offer of rebooking. You can also add any upsold products, like pomades, to their appointment using the Cloud Upsell feature. When they go to the front desk to check-out, their product will be sitting there already in the sale. All they need to do is pay and go! It all works together to help create a more seamless guest experience.

INDU STRY | TH E CORE OF CREATIV ITY

MARKETING CAMPAIGNS WITH YOUR TWIST The good news is, business doesn’t have to all be about streamlining processes and crunching numbers! When it comes to marketing, you get to use your creativity in new mediums to rally up new clients for your shop, and keep your existing clients engaged. With Shortcuts Marketing, you can either use our predesigned best-practice templates or flex your own creative genius and create templates and campaigns of your very own. This feature was designed to be super simple so you can get the job done in no time, while still getting some hot-fire marketing out to your database. Refer a friend campaigns to your existing clients are always a hit, and a great way to introduce new business to your shop. Likewise, celebrating your client’s one-year anniversary of visiting your shop is an awesome way to recognise their loyalty. Calling it an anniversary might sound like you’re about to hand them a bunch of flowers though, so instead tweak the messaging to be more like “Let’s cheers to 1 year of drinking beer and cutting hair together.” Much better. It’s time to get crafty guys and gals! To learn more about how Shortcuts can help you free up your valuable time so you can get down to the creative stuff, check out shortcuts.com.au/cutthroat

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SELLING YOUR BUSINESS There is going to come a time in all business owners’ lives where it’s time to sell your asset and hard work and in this current climate, it may just be on your mind right now. So how do you go about doing this? There are various means from forums, online classifieds through to commercial listings and brokers. I’ll take you through my research here but firstly, let’s look at what you have to sell and how to assess your asking price. One of the biggest mistakes an owner usually makes is overvaluing their business, and I get it! You’ve slaved your guts out and gone through all the hurdles involved with running a business – surely, it’s worth a crapload! WRONG! The market will dictate the value, however there are things you can look at to help boost this up and make it bombproof.

LEASE & LOCATION Booming areas, hustling walk-by trade or shopping centres are always a guaranteed buy interest for potential purchasers. Eliminate concerns by making sure you have plenty of lease time or favourable renewal options left to further the business. CLIENTELE & DATABASE

SO WHAT IS OF VALUE AND HOW DO YOU PACKAGE IT UP?

With the majority of barbershops operating as walkin businesses with limited client records and visit stats, and in some cases even real turnover, valuing as a tangible asset can be difficult. However it’s never too late to start these practices and a sale price can change and strengthen with a minimum of 3 months of collating these figures.

Main areas to assess are Fitout, Lease & Location, Clientele & Database, and Branding & Goodwill.

BRANDING & GOODWILL

FITOUT As our industry has been a solid strong grower over the last 5 years, shops are popping up everywhere, creating a sliding scale of supply and demand. With some of these shops slapped together by unskilled owners or other trades simply looking for 2nd incomes, they tend to end up on the market for a song. A custom fitout with quality commercial grade fixtures will always hold its value. Cheap Ikea fitouts standout for exactly that…cheap. Easily replaced or replicated.

TIP – FINANCIAL LENDERS CAN DO VALUATIONS ON FITOUTS.

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If you’ve built a business around yourself and your kickass talents, then the business is only valuable with you in it. Build your business to a name, a team, a culture and something that a buyer can simply adapt to themselves, and you’re winning. A shop that has great processes and procedures and a team that can operate with little physical attention is going to be attractive to a greater range of the potential buyers.

INDU STRY | BU SINESS END

"BUILD YOUR BUSINESS TO A NAME, A TEAM, A CULTURE"

SO HOW DO YOU SELL IT? The following is my experience. I have sold businesses through brokers, through classified ads (such as Gumtree) and through professional listings (such as Seek). Each of these has their pros and cons. A broker is great for privacy and will do a lot of the hard work for you but will also take a good chunk of % for the effort. There are good brokers and bad brokers so make sure you do your research and even consider picking up the phone and ringing their testimonials or google reviews. The classified ads will get you every windowshopping bargain hunter there is. You will need to have your spiel ready and expect to have your time wasted. I work on a 1:8 ratio of serious buyer to timewasters. The protection you have here is limited so be cautious, download a “confidentiality agreement” template and insist on it being signed before you trade any sensitive information. And then there’s the professional listing which will get you more investor based buyers and this means you will be bombarded with a plethora of financial

FOR SALE

questions and judged via accounting strategies and formulas. Something none of us barbers are great at. We just cut hair! So if you’ve lined up all your ducks and ready to get a sale underway, make sure you have a good solicitor ready to do the dirty work and a decent relationship with your managing rental agent/landlord as it’s these two people you need to get things across the line. Once you’ve found a buyer, things get serious. This is now a relationship game. Get clear guidelines and expectations set out and in the open as soon as possible and understand that every piece of miscommunication can and will create a delay and eventually stress. Every delay will cost you money in business operation as legal correspondence between all involved can be days back and forth per query. With every relationship comes emotion and this is no exception. Business isn’t just business when you’re selling something you’ve worked hard to build. The staff, the clients, the contacts involved will give your mental health a blast. This roller coaster can push you but if your motivation to sell is change-based, you’ll have a focus to pull you through and get it done.

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tren ds | H OT TOP ICS

The ‘high and tight’ is a military variant of the crew cut and is more commonly known amongst civilians as “The Walker”. Think Ryan Reynolds in DeadPool; when he’s el naturel, not disguised in his signature red bodysuit; or Jake Gyllenhaal in Jarhead, with his locks appropriately cropped for the role of a U.S. Marine. This popular style is characterised by the back and sides of the head being shaved and gradually blended into slightly longer hair on top. Typically adorned by U.S. Armed Forces, there is no state authority stopping the modernday urban man from rocking this very same look. A look more and more men are turning towards. Why? It’s low maintenance and looks good on almost everyone.

The specific technique to achieving this highly demanded style predominantly comes down to your barber. Using the correct product will assist in creating weight and texture to this already tidy number and will present an overall natural, but smart look. This is achieved by working a small amount of product into the palm of your hands and massaging it into towel dried hair, working the hair from back to front in order to distribute the product evenly. The proudly Australian owned and made, Cavalry Men’s Goods, offers a range of pomades, pastes and waxes that is made for barbers to achieve any desired look. The ‘high and tight’ is a never fail. It’s a crowd-pleasing, minimalist hairstyle that consistently makes a statement. Saddle up, boys.

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@ T H E B A RB E L L B ARB ER

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TRENDS | CREATIV E CU TS

When I won the 2019 barber of the year award, I knew I couldn’t just do ‘normal haircuts’. There were too many really good barbers, many of who I looked upto! I had to change things up and bring out the creativity. With the fade, it wasn’t just a regular fade, I flipped it upside down and reversed it, with the top, I didn’t just cut it square, I fully disconnected a whole diagonal panel. It’s these small changes that make a huge impact on the final result! Where did these ideas come from? Everywhere! Some were pre meditated and some were just what I was feeling at the time letting the room, the people the hair inspire me; true original creativity came to life. There’s no feeling quite like it when cutting hair in full creative flow.

Where do they start? Where do they end? What is the point in creative haircuts? With the ever growing popularity of social media and the need for individuality, there’s never been a more prominent time for creativity in the hair industry. It’s now 2020 and in hair, anything goes! Sharp lines, feathered edges, crazy colour not to forget The Mullet! You name it, it’s being done. That being said, it has to come from somewhere. My name is Leigh Winsor, 2019 Barber Expo Barber of the year. For me creativity plays a vital role in my work and what I want to portray with hair. Creativity is like an I.D card, it’s yours, no one can take it from you, no one can tell you how to do it, it’s purely from the heart.

There’s only so many short back and sides one can get excited about. Creativity allows us to push the boundaries and bend the rules, giving us new ideas and potentially inspiring others to level up their game. Inspiration is everywhere, from artists to music, architecture and even nature. Portraying that through hair is a unique practice and one we should not be afraid of! After all we are artists in our own right and how many can say their canvas’ come back clean time and time again? Even if you feel the creative side to hair can get a bit outrageous, I think it’s important to explore it and try new ideas.

Don’t be fooled though, in hair you need to learn to walk before you can run. Learning the basics and fundamentals is essential before diving into the creative stuff. Having the fundamental knowledge will allow you to create beyond your wildest dreams, effectively and precisely. Get yourself some great mentors, people who have been there and can show you the way, sign up to as much education as you can, look upto to social media and magazines and take notice of the people and trends around you. When you start to look, ideas are everywhere. If you get stuck, just cut it! Go create!

"PUT A STATEMENT ON YOUR WORK"

Put a statement on your work, add that extra line, change the shape of that fade, add that splash of blue and call it yours! What’s the fun in being like everyone else? Who knows it could even win you an award. the cutthroat journal

"AFTER 15 SCHOONERS" Written by Abbey Hannan

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FEATU RE | P ARTY IN TH E BACK out “where’s my partner”, who brought to the stage their child sporting bright red hair, “THAT’S PROOF, SEE THAT IS PROOF!” “See ya round like a rissole”. We took a picture of a local larrikin from Western, Maitland and after a few snaps he asked “Need the name of my barber? ME! Last night after 15 schooners”. The attendees at Mulletfest weren’t scared of the camera, even calling out “That’s not a real mullet, this is a real man’s mullet”.

If you didn’t have a mullet you definitely felt out of place, they were everywhere! Surely by now you’ve heard of Mulletfest. No? Well, let us bring you up to speed. Imagine the typical Aussie battler wearing footy shorts, sinking schooners, dirty moustaches, singlets and thong shoeys. The event was held on 29th February at Chelmsford Hotel “the Chelly” in Kurri Kurri, about 45 minutes west of Newcastle, raising money for the Mark Hughes foundation. The main street of Kurri Kurri was filled with some questionable characters coming together from all over Australia and the world. Laura Johnson, founder of Mulletfest said a whopping 242 people had signed

up to compete in the event. The titles were Juniors aged from 0-17 with 4 age group divisions, the Adult categories were Ranga, International, Extreme, Vintage, People’s Choice, Grubby and the Everyday Mullet. The judging came down to the cut, the condition of the mullet and the overall stage presence. Cougar Knight who took out the best Ranga mullet said on the stage that he has a hairdresser girlfriend “who tends to the mullet”, co-host Jaffa or Uncle Jaffa said, “everyone needs a hairdresser girlfriend”. Cougar ended up winning the category with his luscious long red mullet. Another Ranga contestant Davey showed the audience how with age the mullet can change colour, he even proved it yelling

This year there was even an international category, with competitors from USA, Canada, Norway and the UK. They got up on stage, strutted their stuff and boogied. Robert Ayton took out the title for the best International mullet. A big congratulations to Paul Gee “Gee man”, who took out the overall Best Mullet for 2020. When asked how it felt to take out this coveted award, his response was “It’s been a lifelong ambition of mine, it’s a life achievement”. Mulletfest is such a great event filled with larrikins, families and bogans just having some good clean fun. This is certainly not an event to be missed in 2021.

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WRITTEN BY

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FEATU RE | MIK EY DENTON

There is a major cross over happening not only in the States but also overseas in various countries. A movement of people who claimed to be “just a barber” are now using clean sections, more aware of their stance, the movement of their body with each cut of the scissor and really keen on clean technical scissor work. They are understanding thin sections and tension provides control to the style. Head shapes are actually being incorporated. With this technical scissor work, their arm positioning is being considered. If the wrist is constantly bent forward or back during the cutting process, this will result in carpal tunnel. We have learned that this has shortened the careers of many barbers and stylists. Professionals are now being more aware of their body positioning by attending live educational classes or watching demos online. With the growth of social media, influencers and brands it has made finding what classes are in your neck of the woods very easy. If not in person, you are able to watch the live stream of the class most likely. HERE IS A LIST OF DIFFERENT CUTTING METHODS THAT HAVE BEEN TAUGHT FOR YEARS BUT LATELY YOU ARE SEEING MORE OF: •Point cutting is a hair cutting technique that allows us to turn an ordinary cut into a look that is full of movement and texture all achieved by the removal of weight and creating seamless layering. •Notching is a version of point cutting in which the tips of the scissors are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them which creates a chunkier effect. Also, can be seen as a “peak and valley” look. •Slide cutting – Slide cutting is a technique used to thin hair out by sliding the blades of the scissors from inner part of section of hair toward ends of hair. The blades are partially open. This removes excess bulk while still allowing hair to blend. -Which causes people to branch out. •Barbers are now asking to shadow different salons. Barbers are attending “salon specific” hair cutting classes that could include longer hair or pixie haircuts. They are following and sharing more stylists who also dabble in color. A few years ago a lot of barbers were sharing haircuts and fusion color hair on their social media platforms. In the States if you have just a barber’s license, you are not able to offer color technically.

So now people are interested in re attending school if the course doesn't take long to complete. That also goes the other way, people who were technically licensed in hair design will go back to barber college to get an official barber license. Clients are following different hair accounts now. They are paying attention to these hair pages and the content they are putting out there. With that comes different terminology clients feel the need to mention during the consultation. This makes them feel like they are able to sound like they know what they are talking about even if it's totally incorrect. Either way, this is something we as professionals need to be aware of and to date with our continued education. That has caused some “traditional barbers” to step up their game and keep up with current trends, current terminology and names of haircuts. With each season in the North West I am noticing clients in colder months want more natural looks. This could mean more all scissor looks that offer a lot of versatility and offer a great grow out.

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Professionals, whether they are barbers or stylists, cannot ask to charge more, saying “I know my worth”, not continue their education and maintain long term clientele. HOT TOPIC: “PRECISION WORK”, WHAT DOES IT MEAN? -Definition: Precision haircutting will require an exact technique and shape with almost no imperfections in the cut. -Precision cutting is control, even when texturizing. -Softer finish. **In recent years’ professionals are labeling themselves as “Precision” stylists or barbers. Also going as far as labeling their business as a “precision” salon or barbershop. It seems the title is a little confusing to some. Precision cutting is an approach not a look. The definition listed after some research is: Precision haircutting will require an exact technique and shape with almost no imperfections in the cut. This style of cutting provides control even when texturizing. Usually this approach also leaves a softer finish versus a choppy look. Note: Education isn’t just useful for professionals but also clients. They enjoy hearing the “why” and “how”. Also, educating your clients with useful styling tips. Record with their phone the blow dry process. This allows them to have you at home helping them with their daily styling.

the cutthroat journal

-Barbers are sectioning -Using more than one scissor for a haircut -More effort into styling and finishing -Stylists are purchasing barber combs, tools, clippers and want to know more about fades -Barbers are applying pre blow dry product -barbers are blow drying with variety of brushes (round brush, denmen, vent, etc) -Barbers are exploring pre blow dry product (creams, mousse, gels, pastes, hairspray, sea salt, dry pates, etc) All this cross over talk from the tools, our clients, and social media is changing education. Some professionals want the basics of what they don’t know. A lot of times we as people behind the chair want more. That could be more explanation on more difficult fades, advanced cutting techniques and for some people how to incorporate vivid colors with our cuts, which has become very popular in the last couple of years. -Large movement of independent education/mens scene is no exclusion -Barbers paying anywhere from $25$1,400 to learn how to be more precise with sectioning and cut with intention -Not just sectioning but be more aware with head shapes and hair types SINCE THE VIRUS OUTBREAK IN THE STATES: The virus has required pretty much all the states to shut down non-essential businesses, including salons and barbershops. House calls are not only being frowned upon but some states (including the state I live in) you risk getting fined and possibly getting your license taken away. A lot of people and brands are now offering live education for free online. Prerecorded digital content which was offered at a certain price is now heavily discounted. This big online push is providing more useful education than ever before by American institutions both independent and big brands. Brands like R+Co run by hair stylists (one being a famous men's hair stylist, Thom Priano)

are offering free haircutting education and live group conversations for the entire month of April. This virus has caused a gigantic ripple effect in so many ways and has greatly impacted the beauty industry. But with such a heavy impact, this has forced the beauty industry on a global level to act fast and think of creative ways to support each other. Live and digital education has been a gigantic force with that. Not just hair cutting techniques but styling, business, consultation and so much more. Also, I have a strong feeling this will make most professionals behind the chair step up their game. Now this will force the people who “know their worth” to step up the experience they provide.

FEATU RE | m IK EY DENTON

CROSS OVER CONTINUED-

The #1 thing people have said to me and what barbers post online is “there will be a lot of people who need haircuts after this”. Which is true, people will want their hair cut but will people still want to pay the higher end price for some of these barbers? Possibly not. Jobs being cut, unemployment at an all-time high and the economy taking a massive hit. WILL THAT HAVE A BIG IMPACT ON THE PRICE OF A HAIRCUT? My belief is people will want more of an experience and that could grow tremendously if hair professionals take advantage of this FREE education that is online. Free education that most likely will run through summer. Right now, live education by big brands are holding off until July. Will it continue past that? Right now that is unclear. Until then, people all over the world should be taking advantage of this ability to easily take classes that they might not usually want to see or pay for. If a barber has been interested in color, jump on Instagram, there would be a lot of useful 'how to's. If a stylist wanted to learn how to fade, right now is a hell of a time as there is so much to watch on how to fade, not just by a guy on YouTube teaching you how to cut your own hair, but by really well known barbers and male hairdressers.

the cutthroat journal

The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history expands back to the early 1980s, where its founders Hirokazu Yamaguchi and David Thai saw an opportunity in the flourishing European hair industry. Mr Yamaguchi and Mr Thai both migrated from Japan to Europe (separately) in the late 70s in search of new careers, lifestyles and adventures. At the heart of its inception, Dowa International led by Mr Yamaguchi, created and launched the prestigious Passion publishing company in London, specialising in salon hair magazines, books and posters. Today, the Passion magazine is still widely published in Europe and the USA. Hair magazines and books were expensive in the 80s and Mr Yamaguchi saw that through his connections with a Japanese printing company, he was able to produce at scale and offer it at a more affordable price to salons in London. Business was booming and in the mid 80s, Mr Yamaguchi began to search for ways to expand into Paris, the heart and soul of the hair fashion industry. Through a business affiliate, Mr Yamaguchi connected with Mr Thai, who at the time was working for Japan Airlines in Paris. The business proposal to make a move into the hair industry was unexpected yet very interesting and after consideration, Mr Thai took the leap. Europassion was established 34

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in Paris and Mr Thai has since become Mr Yamaguchiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trusted business partner for 30 years. Whilst the magazine business was doing well, Mr Yamaguchi and Mr Thai saw competition increase as more players began entering the European market. Running the risk of competing in a saturated market, the direction of both companies was re-assessed and the ultimate question was - how were both founders going to leverage their relationships with the hairdressing world? In the late 80s, Mr Yamaguchi attended a hair trade show in London in which he encountered a lone Japanese sharpener with one small machine - sharpening continuously for hours. This amazed Mr Yamaguchi - the skills involved with this highly reputable and traditional Japanese art form. He knew he needed to learn and master this. Mr Kobayashi saw the drive and quick thinking in Mr Yamaguchi and accepted to train and pass on the knowledge and skills. Following this alliance with Mr Kobayashi, Mr Yamaguchi began to turn his attention to diversifying into the hairdressing scissors industry. Mr Thai saw the strategic move as necessary to adapt to the changing nature of the hair magazine industry and soon followed Mr Yamaguchi back to Japan to begin setting up their supply chain.

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the cutthroat journal

CHANGING THE SCISSOR INDUSTRY The scissor market in Europe during the 1990s was dominated by German scissors where the designs were flat blades. A key differentiator of the Japanese scissors was the convex blades which we see in the majority of the scissors made today. The main advantage is that there is a hollow ground feature where the inside surface of the blade is not completely flat. The touch point between the two blades only occurs at the point of cutting, meaning friction is eliminated and control is channelled through the body of the scissors. The result? A smooth and powerful cut. In the early 1990s, both founders began searching for Japanese craftsmen to design, create and export a series of high-end scissors. Through their connections with Mr Kobayashi, a network was established and operations began - importing to London and Paris and eventually to wider Europe and then the USA. The two brands most recognised in Europe today - Osaka and Passion scissors have been at the forefront of expertise and innovation for the past 30 years. Mr Thai was able to successfully elevate the Osaka brand in France, working with major academies and organisations including Intercoiffure France, Haute Coiffure and showcasing at the Paris Hair Mondial for the last 25 years. COLLABORATION WITH YS PARK By 1995, business was soaring and both companies in London and Paris were offering after-sales sharpening services which again was a major differentiator in the market. By 2004, YS Park had just entered the hair industry and was in search of a partner with network and coverage to distribute his combs and brushes. Mr Yamaguchi agreed to bring on board Mr Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products and became the first partner worldwide to distribute to the UK and other parts of Europe. To the public, the innovative products paired up perfectly with the quality Osaka and Passion scissors, making the offering to the market even more attractive. One year later, Mr Thai also agreed to distribute through his networks in France, bringing Mr Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand to the prestigious organisations such as the Intercoiffure, Haute Coiffure and trade shows. EXPANSION INTO AUSTRALIA Expansion into Australia occurred in 2018, with Netsujou becoming the major distributor of Osaka scissors. Supported by operations in Paris led by Youki Thai, the company is run by Leonie Truong in Sydney providing key education and expertise in the scissor industry to the Australian public. Whilst traditions have been embedded over the last 30 years, you can expect a fresh and modernised twist on the brand as Youki and Leonie look to elevate the scissor game in Australia. the cutthroat journal

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Sizes Available MT - 5.5, 6, 6.5 inches Right hand

Sizes Available CXS - 6 inches Right hand

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FEATU RE | ROY AL ENF IEL D

umans have become soft. We moan and complain about minor inconveniences, luxuries and comforts that didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exist a decade ago. We get upset about poor wifi signals, low internet speeds, poor mobile reception and we take our bullshit frustrations out on those around us. We are socialising less than ever yet we have never been more connected. We happily surrender our freedom for convenience, comfort and security. We are connected to the grid at all times and have become slaves to the very system we created. Most of us either do not know or refuse to accept that we have purchased this security and comfort with the only true currency we really have, our freedom. In a few short years we will see massive changes in the way we live and work. Risk, danger, uncertainty and adventure are already socially unacceptable and are being engineered out of life, allocated to the online world where no physical harm or financial loss can be suffered. Play, pleasure, work, creativity, sex, risk have been relegated to the online. The work and desires that once gave our lives meaning will be automated and the activities that once made life living will be outlawed as too high risk.

The motorcycle has become an anomaly in a world full of victims. A world that constantly craves more stuff, more safety, lower risk and demands perfection. The motorcycle, refuses to modernise, to cooperate, and become the transport it was initially designed to be. Most of us move around what remains of this planet wrapped up in steel cages with the latest anti braking systems, 10,000 point safety checks engineered in all wheel drive special utility vehicles with 20 air bags, the latest GPS technology and never truly disconnect from our all providing master, the system.

The establishment, the government, the mainstream, the media will all tell you to stay well away from anything that cannot provide you with these basic human needs, comfort, security and safety. The system knows that riding a motorcycle facilitates independent thought. So have a good think about those â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;needsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as they exist only in your mind. They will tell you to give away your crazy immature, childish dreams of motorcycles and adventures. They will tell you to stay far away from these crazed reckless tribes who ride motorcycles. They will tell you this because they fear truth, they fear those who ride are not entirely enslaved. The system does not fully control bikers yet and with each ride they become less enslaved. the cutthroat journal

Riding a motorcycle brings us closer to what we are meant to be, wild and free, not merely algorithms and data fuel for a self-perpetuating system. On a motorcycle we are 100% disconnected and in the present moment. Our lives are in our own hands, we are creative and generate original and independent thoughts when we are unplugged and focussed as you can only be on a motorcycle. We know every time we ride we could die. We accept this and this makes us feel life at its fullest. The brain fires differently when you ride and we connect with our tribe in very unique and authentic ways. Most of us cannot describe the bond between each member of our tribe but we all recognise it. It is the brief eye contact when you pass another rider going in the other direction, pegs scraping on a hairpin corner. Or warming frozen hands over a fire at the end of a long winter days riding. There is a bond.

The motorcycle is the last â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fuck you!â&#x20AC;&#x2122; to a system fast enslaving the planet. Many of us have never known the feeling of joy of battling extreme elements and this is a real shame. To have ridden in far away lands exhausted, lonely and afraid. Through rain and sleet and snow for hour upon hour. Or to ride through the desert, lost in extreme heat, nearly out of fuel and bike limping into some small nomadic gypsy village. No steel cage to protect us, no phone to call for help, nothing but our wits and the good nature of fellow humans. This is freedom, this is adventure and this is life. To feel the sun, the wind and the rain on our skin. To fall off and get back up and fall off again. Discomfort, pain, discovery, freedom. No one can control you on your bike, you cannot be monitored, regulated, legislated, mitigated or mediated. Riding a motorcycle you are unplugged and untethered just as we were born to be. Bikers are free range and unpredictable men and women, which is rare among the 7 billion that populate the planet at this point in time. Give me blood, sweat and tears, bricks and mortar. Screw your online world and social media popularity and get on a motorcycle now and open your eyes. Motorcycles are the answer, and Royal Enfield are the motorcycles.

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FEATU RE | ROY AL ENF IEL D

the cutthroat journal

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FEATU RE | CU TTING EDGE

â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

the cutthroat journal

EXPERIENCE THE BARBER INDUSTRY FIRST HAND What started with spending the day guest-cutting at one of my favourite shops quickly evolved into the desire to continue meeting new people and discovering what there was to offer in the barber world. With the goal to guest spot at 100 barbershops around the world, I knew I would have to reach outside my comfort zone and expose myself to new environments and situations. With each visit, I work in the shops as part of their team for a day or two. The way Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m documenting this journey is solely based on my personal experience and my time as a guest at each shop. What Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve reflected includes culture, personalities, community, stories, history and integrity of service. This is my personal project, PROJECT 100.

the cutthroat journal

CLIPPY T'S BARBERSHOP 398 MAIN RD WELLINGTON POINT QLD 4160 AUSTRALIA +61 7 3822 9930 @CLIPPYTSBS WWW.CLIPPYTS.COM With the industry growing and evolving at a rapid pace, one thing has stayed constant in successful shops -customer service. The essence of our trade is the people that come through our doors, yet we can tend to forget that, at the core, what we do is provide a service for people.

VEA FONUA

Clippy T’s Barbershop, however, is the mecca for customer service, stripping back to good old-fashioned service for their clients. Their complimentary hot towel and neck shaves are an amazing and indulgent way to finish any cut service.

I was taken back with the level of development Shella has invested in her shops and staff. Shella has over 25 years of experience in the Industry and is proving to be a trailblazer as one of the first females to win awards in Australian Barber competitions. Alongside these accolades is the fact she is an ambassador for Icandy Scissors and Andis clippers, and the founder of the first Australian Female barber focused Competition Feibi. Shella and husband Phil Thornton have built a 3-shop operation all around Brisbane. All shops have apprentices and staff who are being up-skilled constantly. Shella is a second-generation Barber, and it’s clear she is utilizing everything she knows and continues to learn to

develop and perfect her concepts. I was eager to observe Shella’s concepts and techniques on my day out at the Wellington Point shop. I can say that I took away a few gems from working at Clippy T’s and added to my repertoire.

FEATU RE | P ROJECT 1 00

CLIPPY T'S BARBERSHOP

We also got a visit from our mutual friend Mark, owner of Icandy Scissors, a familyowned and operated business based on the Gold Coast. We had an exclusive to the new products in the pipeline and are both excited to get our hands on them. If you’re ever in need of a good oldfashioned barber service, this is the place for you. Barber Salute Clippy T’s Barbershop

VIBE AND STYLE – OLD SCHOOL WORKSHOP MUST TRY – EXTRA MENU, FROM EAR/NOSE WAXING TO GREY BLENDING PRO TIP – USE THE ONLINE QUEUE SYSTEM SLIKR BARBER TO WATCH – ALL ROUNDER SHELLA @SHELLA_BARBERELLA

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VIBE AND STYLE – FRIENDLY VIBRANT MUST TRY – EVERYTHING FROM CAFE PRO TIP – VIP WEEKLY CUT SPECIAL BARBER TO WATCH – FADE MASTER @BRENDEN_VENGOA

BLENDS AND BROTHERS AUTHENTIC BARBERSHOP AND CAFE

BOAR AND BLADE ROUSE HILL TOWN CENTRE GR072 SYDNEY NSW 2155 AUSTRALIA 61 2 8824 3678 BLENDS_AND_BROTHERS WWW.BLENDSANDBROTHERS.COM.AU With a competitive market in big cities, everyone is trying to find the difference maker for their business. Blends & Brothers has a great thing going with their combination space incorporating full Barber services and a cafe with a varied and delicious menu offering. Brenden and his Brother went into Business together 5 years ago with the concept of integrating a Cafe into a Barbershop in the Hills District of Sydney. The first thing you’ll notice when you enter might be the smell of freshly brewed coffee and grilled bacon, shortly followed by the vibrant, upbeat, friendly atmosphere of the Barbershop space. The cafe menu is just as good as the extensive barber services menu on offer. The barber services accommodate a wide range of clientele from young children and high school students to weekly VIP clients and seniors.

the cutthroat journal

‘How would you like your eggs?’ ‘How high do you want to go with your fade?’ Questions that can be asked in this shop, and it won’t seem unusual. I was treated with eggs on toast to start my shift with the team, having a meal before a busy day on your feet is a necessity to keep you going through the day. The Barbershop hummed all day, with appointments and walk ins flowing constantly. With a young, talented bunch of barbers, Brenden has mastered a hands-off leadership style and a more hands-on mentorship with the support of his senior barber Duke. It’s becoming evident that the development of the barbers has fueled the shops’ success and there has been evolutions to the shop since I last visited. The floor space has opened up and a couple more barber chairs have been added to cater to the growing demand and also accommodate the new talent added. I see nothing but continued success in this shop for Brenden and his team and it was great getting to spend the day with them.

FEATU RE | P ROJECT 1 00

LOMU FADES

BLADEZ BARBERS LOMU FADES 79A CORNELIA RD TOONGABBIE SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA 2146 LOMU.BOOKSY.COM 0405 664 102 @LOMU_FADES My first encounter with Charles Lomu was at the Hair Expo 2017 in Sydney. We happen to be related and had never met beforehand, but our other cousins, also barbers on the Gold Coast, connected the family tree for us. Barbering is common in Pacific Island families, there will often be at least one family member that can cut hair (or claim they can). With strong family influences, Charles had started out in his garage to cut family and friends and eventually branched out into the public. Even with increasingly high demand, he decided to stay in his original space and upgrade as he goes. The space is now a fully functioning barber shop that vividly reflects Charles' love of sports, music and shoes. This two-chair operation is an ideal suburban escape, you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in a garage. My time was spent talking and observing the benefits of working from home and controlling your schedule to fit your life. Working from home, Charles has also been able to share his talents with his wife and kids and add braiding to the services he offers. His passion has continued out into the local and wider community as Charles has mentored and shared his wisdom, advice and talents with atrisk youth and is piloting a barber programme in Fairfield High School. Charles has reminded me that Barbers can still be a key pillar in the community. His love and compassion for others to do better is inspiring. Thank you for the experience. Barber Salute Lomu Fades!

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#9 AND #10 CHOP CITY BARBERS & CHICS AND CHAPS CHOP CITY BARBERS & CHICS AND CHAPS 31 BRIDGE STREET NELSON NEW ZEALAND +64 3-546 9958 From starting off as solely a Hairdressing salon with Chics and Chaps, Sue added Nathan as an apprentice to provide barber services 7 years ago. Not long after that they added Bronson as an apprentice and they quickly outgrew their space (not to mention that Nathan and Bronson are both over 6ft 5'). Sue has invested and trusted in the two barbers and they now run the Barber side of the shop -Chop City Barbers. The new space is closer to the main strip and the shop is split into two spaces, with the barbershop up front and the hairdressing salon in the back. The spaces are distinct but work together to create a vibrant, communal energy and feel to the whole space. The barbershop now has five chairs and more barbers and apprentices on board. I was lucky to have a chair there on one of the busiest weekends of the year, with the All Blacks coming to town and the town bustling with people. With the weekend festivities I got an intense experience of the Nelson community. My time in the shop was packed with locals and rugby players, same to be said with the other four barbers. From the patrons that came through the doors to the ones that greeted us from the road, Nelson is truly one of the closest knit communities there is, and Sue and crew have created a space where everyone can come in and be treated to great haircuts and a fun, comfortable atmosphere. I can't wait for my next visit to Nelson. Barber Salute Chop City Barbers & Chics and Chaps!

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FEATU RE | P ROJECT 1 00

@_NATHANNUKUNUKU_

the cutthroat journal

Australia is a vast country and nature can be cruel. With the recent fires, floods, and now a pandemic, many businesses are struggling. But fear not. The barber community is strong, and we have seen incredible resilience and camaraderie in times of great hardship over the past months. Within the barbering community, we heard of a great number of barbershops that had a very poor Christmas and this has had a knock-on effect going into the New Year. Worldwide we have all taken another big blow with COVID-19, and we are experiencing a time that is unlike any other. We are all having to adapt to the continually changing circumstances, and Australian barbers and retailers will continue to feel various levels of economic pain for months to come. The barbers we know and supply approach every consultation and cut with pride and passion. It should come as no surprise then that some barbershops felt they were stuck between a rock and a hard place when the government-imposed regulations, limiting haircut times to 30 minutes, came into effect.

the cutthroat journal

In response to this, Vinnie Forgione, Company Director of Empire Barbering said in an Instagram post, â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is becoming increasingly difficult to execute such a high quality of service and provide the unique experience that we pride ourselves on so much.â&#x20AC;? It was encouraging to see barbers re-opening their doors once the haircut time had been increased to 45 minutes per cut; however, there were also a great deal of barbershops that felt they were putting their staff and client base at risk by remaining open. Some business owners have said they have faced pressure from their clients, staff, and landlords, who wanted them to remain open in line with the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advice. It is baffling how it is deemed dangerous for the rest of the country to be in close contact with people, but not for barbers, hairdressers, and retailers. Having to deal with this unwarranted pressure, and stores feeling as if they were putting their lives at risk because they were still expected to operate, has been extremely hard yakka.

FEATU RE | STRONGER TOGETH ER

During this lockdown, more and more barbers are taking to social media to stay connected and to educate their customers. The importance of aftercare is one of the hot topics and cashing in on a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;captiveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; audience will not only increase profits for barbers, but it also sets the stage for future business and support. Customers are empowered to attempt new grooming regimes and to maintain the look they got at their local barbershop, and barbers make money in a time when every cent count. It is a win-win for all. Another situation that will be a serious win for barbers will be the damage control that will ensue the onslaught of Coronavirus. There are going to be some unfathomable DIY haircuts and styles that are going to arise from the COVID-19 ashes and will no doubt get every barbershop hustling, and chucklingâ&#x20AC;Ś

We think it is important to remember that, as catastrophic as the fires were only a few weeks ago, it now feels like a distant memory. We are faced with a new normal, but this too shall pass. We are stronger together and, like it or not, we must embrace this situation for what it is, really shitty and devastating on so many levels, but also an opportunity to find new ways to remain connected to our customers, colleagues and loved ones. What takes a fair knock can be rebuilt, and I have no doubt we will all get through this and emerge bigger and better. Be thankful for the simple things, develop those connections and seize those opportunities. We are here to support you. Stay safe and stay positive.

the cutthroat journal

Written by Rob Marlowe The Cutthroat Journal

When all this Covid-19 palaver was first reported, it became relevant to the everyday Aussie that the cure was simple - to wash your hands… No! I mean really wash your hands, not just run them under a tap. I just couldn’t take it overly seriously! However, something triggered inside my head when I sent a very exciting recipe for a Lamb Biryani over to a friend who pointed out that men used to talk about football and now they discuss recipes. There is a definite shift in my psyche over the last few weeks of living in the times of Covid-19 and I’ll be honest, it’s not all bad and ugly. This great positive response of small to medium size businesses across the country adapting to the flexibility to offer new services of retail and creating online shops, which has inspired me to do the same in my life where I have chosen to simplify and go back to basics. Another inspiration of mine, Bruce Lee, once said: “Don’t get set into one form, adapt it and build your own and let it grow, be like water. Empty your mind; be formless, shapeless – Like water! Now you put water in a cup, it becomes the cup, you put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now water can flow or it can crash. Be water, my friend.” Bruce Lee

the cutthroat journal

I think most people will agree, the average hard working Aussie goes at life at a steady 100 mph, with never enough time in the day, levels of anxiety about what the future might hold and for the vast majority of us, at what cost to our mental and physical health. Now many of us, due to the parameters put on us by this pandemic have had to slow down, take heed and consider our positions and sometimes purpose. Everybody reacts differently but my reaction to not knowing what the future holds is to live in the moment like any good Buddhist should. I’m not saying I’ve reached enlightenment quite yet but I’ve started to appreciate long bush walks, while enjoying this most beautiful environment we are gifted. I found some basketball courts behind a local sports centre, where I spend time shooting hoops and at 43 years old have started to find my 16-year-old ball skills. I’m reading fiction again, listening to podcasts and have signed up to Netflix, joining the Tiger King – Murder, Mayhem & Madness revolution. I wish not to diminish anyone’s pains or challenges that they are facing in these unprecedented times. I say all of this from the comfort of my office in a regional coastal town of NSW, relatively untouched by the horrors of what this virus has to offer, including the knock on effects of financial hardship and working for ‘The Man’, allows me not to be responsible for others.

FEATU RE | L IV ING F OR TODAY

A friend recently challenged me on my positive attitude toward this pandemic, saying what about the threat to our human rights, our liberty and I responded as any good William Wallace fan should; although maybe slightly out of context. “They may take our lives, but they will never take our FREEDOM!” It’s an interesting word, Freedom, but somehow I don’t feel my freedom is threatened! However, I accept it might be a different narrative if I were a homosexual living in Vladimir Putin’s Russia or Supreme Leader, Ali Khamenei’s, Iran. Even in lockdown I feel free and liberated by the uncertainty of the finite future that is presented. To elaborate further, one feels more than ever that one must ‘Live for today, as who knows what might happen tomorrow’. I read an article in a men’s culture magazine that claims humans have become soft! Moaning and complaining about minor inconveniences, luxuries and comforts that didn’t exist a decade ago. Taking out our frustrations on those around us. Even before lockdown we socialised less than ever, yet we have never been more connected. We happily surrender our freedom for convenience, comfort and security. Most of us either don’t know or refuse to accept that we have purchased this security and comfort with the only true currency we really have Our freedom.

They go on to say, risk, danger, uncertainty and adventure are already socially unacceptable and are being engineered out of our lives, where no physical or financial loss can be suffered. So in answer to our freedom I say we need to look within, to unshackle our restraints. Whether that means to go back to education, travel more, go fishing, get fit, get that boob job you’ve always wanted or tattoo on your arse. Whatever it takes to realise enrichment in your life TODAY. People say the world will never be the same again. And I agree but not with the cynicism with which it is said but optimism, where we will never be the same again, because we won’t allow for it.

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The barbering event exceeded all our expectations again at the recent New Zealand Meatstock festival. Our major sponsor Barber Brands International hosted the Barber of the Year New Zealand 2020 competition. We had 14 competitors from all over New Zealand going head to head completing two different styles of cuts; Traditional and Freestyle. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winner was Kane Cupit from Hair by Wayne, 2nd place went to Kaisei Sarai from Tokoya Barber Shop and 3rd place was Sean Faramand from Tokoya Barber Shop. All three barbers were presented trophies by Steven Wilson from Barber Brands New Zealand. Our judges for the event were Head Judge Jimmy Rods, Wayne Ahmed Joubert and David Tiumalu. Other sponsors for the event were Comfortel supplying the barber chairs, as well as Shortcuts which gave an educational session on the Main Stage about Google marketing platforms. We had a range of cool motorbikes on display from Royal Enfield and we had two active barbershops at the event cutting the punters hair from Barbershop Co and Servilles.

BARBER OF THE YEAR NEW ZEALAND 2020 WINNER KANE CUPID

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The overall winner will compete in Sydney at The Barber Brands Barber of the Year Australia competition held at The Barber Expo 2020. The Cutthroat Journal would like to thank the event organisers of Meatstock for the stage time during their event.

2ND PLACE WINNER KAISEI SARAI

3RD PLACE WINNER SEAN FARAMAND

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TELL US ABOUT GOT INTO BARBE by chance to be h pathways when I was next and kn always "fall back Going on 22 at th my barber at the and how it reall job. It was from Academy here in of "this is a trad with Barbering an about hair than the academy and spent 12 months me professionall I put everything from anyone tha also attending t time position wi myself up in a sa and profile. Work me the chance to with industry le my skill set. Upo was searching fo the industry had lost, slowly losin couldn't satisfy w recently joined t forward to movin the salon and pu

PHOTO BY SAM FRAWLEY

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TELL US YOUR S BARBER TOOLS Y traditional barbe I was trained fro bare fundamenta that solid base t in more modern build my current stop learning is t will always have have something t always received would say I am a whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to h my base arsenal YS Park Combs a what I need them to them.

TYLE OF BARBERING, AND WHAT KIND OF YOU USE? My style is a bit of a hybrid between ering techniques and modern techniques. om very traditional barbers and learnt the als of hair and how to cut hair. It was from that allowed me to go and educate myself n cutting techniques and really refine and skill set. I am very big on, the day that you the day you hang up the scissors, someone something to teach you and you will always to learn. Tools have been something I have a bit of cheek about from close friends. I bit of a tool nerd and always looking out for elp me improve my workflow. In saying that, is Andis Clippers, Excellent Edges Scissors, nd Dyson. I find that these tools do exactly m to do and I find myself always going back

FEATU RE | L U K E MU NN

YOURSELF, YOUR HISTORY AND HOW YOU ERING? My journey into barbering was a bit honest. I was actually pursuing other career found myself a little lost and not sure what ew that I needed to find something I could on". That was my original thought anyway. he time. I was getting a haircut myself when time, Joe and I got talking about the industry y seemed like a lifestyle more than just a there that I enrolled myself in The Barbery Adelaide. I very quickly changed my mindset de to fall back on" and instantly fell in love nd Hair in general. My life started to be more anything else. I became part of a family at d built some really good relationships. I then training under Lou, a gentleman who guided ly and personally. During that training time I had into learning and educating myself at was willing to share some knowledge, rade expos etc. I was then offered a full thin the team at Barberboys where I built alon environment, establishing my clientele king within the team at Barberboys allowed o travel around Australia and again network aders and educators which really refined on finishing my qualification, I found that I r more and wanted to experience what else d to offer. I then found myself again a bit g passion. I was working within a salon that what I wanted to achieve as a barber. I have the team at Attaboy Hair and am looking ng through this current crisis to get back in utting hair on the floor.

YOU RECENTLY WON THE AMERICAN CREW OZ ALL STAR CHALLENGE, WHAT TYPE OF PREPARATION DID YOU TAKE BEFORE THE EVENT? Correct, I was also lucky enough to be a Global Winner. As with any editorial shoot there are different types of preparation to take. With American Crew, it concentrates on the haircut and model more than overall collection appeal. I entered 3 different entries this year and the style that won was something I wanted to do as a bit of a personal expression and something completely outside of what you would usually see within the challenge. I spent hours visually brainstorming ideas of what I wanted to create and then found models to match that style. I think having a strong vision is important. I spent time refining my technique and prepping, but the shot that won it was actually created on the day of the shoot, I wanted to create something outside the box and organised my model last minute and it worked out perfectly. It just all came together. Truly humbled to have been able to take out the prize and to be able to push more of a creative vision on such a platform is amazing. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO YOUNG BARBERS WHO ARE ASPIRING TO MAKE IT IN THE INDUSTRY? What are you waiting on? The only thing stopping you is yourself. Hardwork, Determination, Passion. You need passion, without passion you won’t have the determination to work hard and be the best you can be. I was recently told something that has stuck with me: You're not better than anyone and no one is better than you, we are all just ourselves. I also think young barbers need to be open to learning and really build a strong fundamental knowledge and expand from that, find a mentor within the industry that you really look up to and work your ass off. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HAVE PLANNED? I’m here for the ride, the next 12 months I am really looking to push to the next level within the industry. I have recently found the editorial photo shoot side as something I love doing, so I shot a collection recently that I can’t wait to share. I will be doing a lot more of this type of work in the future. I want to push myself into education and work alongside people I am inspired by in the industry and of course learn as much as I can. I am also working on building up the new shop which is about to open by the Attaboy team.

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Written by Dan Dixon

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FEATU RE | TO CU T OR NOT TO CU T

These are definitely strange times for everyone and the barbering small businessman isn’t immune. I’ve read opinion after opinion and sadly seen attacks aimed at each other on forums within the industry along with our political system copping it through social media, all fueled by fear and a certain hysteria. We have not become Italy, Spain or the UK and nor will we.

The Australian Department of Health has a free online certificate course “Infection Control Training” and a suggested add to all staff and operator training. Work with Knowledge. According to information within this course, Covid is not airborne via breath unless sneezed or coughed, so we can all keep doing the things that we love to do.

There is no doubt that the Covid-19 virus is real and a danger to our society as we know it. There’s no doubt that no cure or vaccine has yet been found but like all viruses, it’s a numbers game. Each of the above countries have smaller land mass, much larger populations with older age demographics and tourist trades that shadows ours.

We can maintain our industry, our country’s economy and our future. Remember that what the Government is giving us now in handouts, will need to be paid back at some stage…nothing is free, that means more taxes and no doubt clamp downs on those avoiding tax.

This doesn’t mean we should be complacent and Australia’s great work has already seen us flatten its curve (with barbershops still open), so if we all do the right thing, continue shop cleanliness and practice smart social distancing, we will be right. It’s easy! Reject the coughing and spluttering client. Wait your clients outside and reduce floor time for your staff. Stop customers as they enter the shop and insist on a system of sanitizing their hands (up forearms). Disinfect your stations and all contact points.

If you’re a lazy barber who’s not prepared to fight to work and adjust to these times with some simple cleaning and caution, just remember one thing…The Australian Way is about grit & resilience and as we approach one of our biggest days for reflection of this, Anzac Day, think about what they went through to keep our country going. The fight they fought and risks they took. Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate everyone’s stand to close or stay open but turn off the media hype and do your research. The fear is real but understanding can conquer it. We are different to the rest of the world and have successfully combated this plague. Let’s get back to cutting!

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few years ago, Florian and I sat in a pizzeria in Vienna and he talked about having his own barbershop together with me. He took a napkin and a pencil and drew how our shop could look like. He looked really happy doing that, and I knew that this was the right thing for us. In 2018 we saw that a beautiful building in Baden was for sale, we gave it a look and we both knew that it was perfect for us. We were not so happy in our jobs and it was the perfect timing. So we took the chance, and it was the best thing we did. We opened on the 24th of November 2018. We tried to do as much as possible alone in the shop, like smashing down some walls (that was super funny!), tearing out the old carpet, the wallpaper, and the old tiles. The building was empty for 12 years so you can imagine how it looked inside. People got excited that something was happening but we covered the windows so nobody could look inside. We wanted 62

to reveal the shop on the opening day. The Building itself has a great story and is also one of the oldest in Baden. Our furniture is from the 20s, 30s, and 40s. Both of us love old furniture and we wanted to open a traditional barbershop like back in the days. We got our inspiration from the old mafia and western movies and really like the movies about the prohibition. We wanted that, when someone enters the shop, they feel like they are in a living room and in a past time. We also got one Woman who visits us every few weeks just to enjoy the atmosphere. She drinks some whiskey and reads a book. She also lives in a very old house and when she finds something nice she gives it to us and we look for a nice place to appreciate it! We wanted to show our collection to the people, we got things from around the world. The Paider Sidewalk Barberpole is from the '30s from Chigaco, the Koken

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Barber chair is from 1898 and also from Chigaco. We got an old National Cash Register from Canada, a few Gold Mining decorations and very old barber supplies. A Newspaper from 1918 about the Prohibition and some articles about the death of Bonnie and Clyde that we are really proud of! But we also mix the decorations with things that Flo and I like, he played Drums and Slipknot is our favorite Band so we have a few things from them too. Our customers love the fact that my husband is the only one who cuts. They appreciate the time where they can relax and leave the stress for a while behind. They can talk to us about everything and just enjoy the time. We really appreciate the fact that some customers come earlier to their appointment just to enjoy the atmosphere.

They drink their coffee or whiskey, look

FEATU RE | BARBER STORY

around to see what we got new in the shop and enjoy the music. We also got a few who just visit us for fun, they are here the whole day, drink something and have a little chat with us. We definitely found some awesome customers and good friends! In 2019 we won the Porkchop of the month from Reuzel. This was our first award and we are super proud of that! We got a few brands that we work with but our all-time favorite is The Holy Black. They make everything by themself and we love that! The fact that Matt and Stefan decide who sells their brand makes us really happy and we feel very honored. We are also selling some articles of clothing from Dickies and soon some things from Pike Brothers. We always look for something new. The Ford Model A was one of the first things that we wanted in the shop. It actually was the first thing we bought. His name is Otto. (Yes we give our cars names). We saw that a guy in Slovenia is selling the car and we knew that we had to get him. He had 20 previous owners. It may sound stupid but we wanted to give him a warm and cozy place where he could rest his soul. So we drove down there and brought him home with us. We made him pretty, fixed the roof, gave him a nice color and brought him to the shop. He is our Good Old Soul. We both like the Hotrod and Custom scene and wanted to have something in the shop that represents the lifestyle of it. We also own a Chevrolet K5 Blazer from 1979, she's called Betty, she was the first car that we bought and I hope that someday we can buy us a Chevrolet Nova. The first time I saw this car was in Quentin Tarantino's “Death Proof”, which is one of our favorite movies and I just thought “Oh my god, this car. I want it!”. We love old cars, like the old furniture we got in the shop, they have a soul, they have this unique smell and they tell a story. Some people even think that we photoshop the Ford into our pictures. And when they see him for the first time they can't believe that he's actually inside the shop. We once got a phone call from a lady, who called every single barbershop in our area and asked: “Are you the barbershop with the car in it?”. Some even believed that an accident happened. Otto definitely brought a lot of attention. We have put our heart and soul in the shop, and will always do, and I think that is one main reason why people like the shop so much. They know that we don't play this. We are like this. And that's why we called the Good Old Soul Barbershop.

WWW.GOODOLDSOUL.AT

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CU L TU RE | BEN BROW N

HEY BEN, HOW’S IT GOING? FOR PEOPLE WHO DON’T KNOW, WHO ARE YOU AND WHAT DO YOU DO? I am a freelance illustrator and designer residing in Sydney, I love demented visual art, surfing, movies and loud rock music. I am married and have two teenage boys.

WHAT MUSIC DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE STUDIO? I played in hardcore punk bands as a young fella and I am partial to any loud rock music – ranging from 70’s legends like Alice Cooper and the Faces – to 80’s punk lords like Black Flag and the Hard Ons – through to contemporary legends like Queens of the Stone Age and The Raconteurs – and everything in between. Also, when I work in the studio I love to listen to movie soundtracks composed by geniuses such as Danny Elfman, Bernard Hermann and Hans Zimmer – they tend to transport you into a different mindset. WHAT ARE SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF YOUR CAREER TO DATE? I’m not sure, you are only as good as your last drawing I guess, but I do love rock posters so doing beautiful screen printed posters for Nirvana, Queens of the Stone Age, You am I, the Pixies, Cosmic Psychos and Pearl Jam (among tons of others) is something I love to do.

YOUR WORK IS SUPER BOLD AND SOMETIMES CONFRONTING WHAT IS THE IDEA BEHIND MAKING FAMOUS PEOPLE HALF DEAD? The stripped back faces of famous people came from an exhibition I did about five years ago. I was working with really iconic images that you could recognise no matter how much I ripped the flesh off them and turned them in to zombies. Images like Uncle Sam, the Queen and Bugs Bunny. It kind of just evolved to famous pop culture figures – rock stars, movie stars etc. It doesn’t always work, they have to be very recognizable people for it to be understood. There is no idea or meaning behind it other than it looks rad. DESCRIBE YOUR PROCESS AND MEDIUMS YOU USE? I worked in screen printing factories after I finished school and I have always loved posters, so my work evolved using a lot of line work and flat colours and half tones that represent screen printing and that pulp style printing of comics. I have always used pen, brush and ink, and colouring the work digitally on a computer. However, in recent times I have started using ‘tablets’ to draw on – both Wacom and iPad, I am not afraid to use new technologies as they become available and it can really enhance your work.

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CU L TU RE | BEN BROW N

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It was great fun. The mid-eighties through to the 2000’s were our wild times and we spent a lot of time in the city and inner west as well – all over the city really. Neither punk rock (and ‘indie’ music in general) or skateboard culture were popular or mainstream and we were part of a relatively small mob that moved around within our various subcultures and had many and varied friends. There were no smart phones and public transport was terrible, so we were a dedicated bunch. I think people tend to romanticise the past a bit, but our wild times were probably not much different than many other generations before and since, it was just a lot smaller, very DIY and ignored by mainstream media and culture. HOW HAS THE SKATE/PUNK SCENE INFLUENCED YOUR ARTMAKING? I was always influenced by the imagery that accompanied skate and punk rock stuff – it is shocking, iconic, sarcastic and fun. I also love that the imagery draws heavily on pop culture, comics and horror movies. I think if you look at my work there is an obvious connection with those essential trashy elements. For me it is all about fun and shocking conservative minds.

YOU HAVE A REAL SIGNATURE STYLE DO YOU HAVE ANY DESIRE OF GOING IN ANOTHER DIRECTION? It’s not really a conscious thing, I would like to try other things for sure. I guess my style is also a product of being a working artist, people hire you to work in that style, so it is what people see of your work. I like sketching in a book and drawing landscapes of the coast and the harbour around where I live and would like to paint more in different styles too. You just have to make the time to do those things, but it is very enjoyable.

CU L TU RE | BEN BROWN

WHAT WAS IT LIKE GROWING UP IN THE SKATE/ PUNK SCENE OF THE NORTHERN BEACHES?

BEING SUCH AN INFLUENTIAL LEGEND IN THE ILLUSTRATION WORLD WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO YOUNG ASPIRING ARTISTS ABOUT MAKING IT IN THE INDUSTRY? Just to be yourself, and love what you do. Developing a look or style that appeals to other people and yourself will come naturally if you are working on things you love and enjoy. THANKS FOR THE CHAT BEN!

YOUR WORK USES A LOT OF POP CULTURE, CAN YOU TALK US THROUGH THIS? I spent way too much time watching television as a kid and I love films and contemporary music and all the junk in general that we are force fed by media every day, this is in a sense the REAL art of the masses. I don’t really like the elitist cerebral and pretentious art world of the top end of town. The greatest art of the twentieth century was probably Bugs Bunny cartoons and the Sex Pistols first record – bright loud fun that appealed to millions of people over a long period of time. Pop culture is around us all day every day. (I then like to f*@k with it and turn it in to something else again)

@MENTALBEN BB@BENBROWN.COM.AU BENBROWN.COM.AU/

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CU L TU RE | P IST IDIOTS

A QUICK CHAT WITH PIST IDIOTS HEY GUYS, HOW’D THE BAND START? WHERE’D YOU ALL MEET? Pretty cliched, we’re all childhood friends known each other forever. Band started up just as a gag before going to the pub or going out. WHAT’S THE REASONING BEHIND YOUR NICKNAMES? Nicknames stick for the most stupid reasons, but that’s why they’re nick names. For example, sniff at least it stems from the combo of last name/high school basketball gags. Nothing too out there ;) PIST IDIOTS KEBABS, WHERE DID THIS IDEA COME FROM? Well originally, being from south west sydney we love a good kebab, one thing that we’ve always loved is the style of the packaging and shop fronts, such a classic steeze. So we chucked it on a shirt, next thing ya know it’s on a truck. WHAT IS YOUR GO TO KEBAB? Chicken with the lot, Garlic/Chilli/BBQ sauce. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR LIVE SHOWS? Like a bus hanging off a cliff, but everyone inside the bus is oblivious and causing a ruckus. Amongst the chaos at any minute, the balance can shift it can all fall to pieces but that’s the beauty of it. WHAT INSPIRES YOUR SONGS? Our day to day lives, inspiring music that we listen to at our day jobs I guess. Ya know the basics, love, work, drugs, life, death, relationships, the mundane, everything. PERSONAL HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER AS A BAND? We’ve been incredibly lucky to do heaps of great stuff, and there’s a million highlights in there. But probably Splendour/Fidlar shows last year. Or the laneway Tour we just finished was pretty epic.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY MADDY RITCHIE

I REMEMBER AS A LITTLE KID, WHEN I WAS INTRODUCING MYSELF TO SOMEONE I LIKED I USED TO SAY, “HI I’M AMY. DO YOU WANT TO BE FRIENDS?” THAT KINDA SUMS ME UP.

I’m fascinated by people and their stories and I’ve found the best way to experience both is up close. I work as an illustrator and writer. My day-job is as a Marketing and Communications Assistant at a design college called Shillington in the city. I moved to Sydney’s inner west from Far North Queensland in 2008 and in the last 12 years, I’ve lived in approximately 20 different places in Sydney, with a year in Berlin sprinkled in there. I’m a bit of a wanderer. My creative style is focused on story, places and people. I draw and paint portraits, illustrate and interview people. I draw using very affordable materials, colour and lead pencils and all of my black and white drawings are done with Bic ballpoint pens. All of my paintings are made using acrylics on timber. Recently I turned to reusing old skateboards as my canvas. Otherwise, I’m doing the slow work of learning to work digitally with my illustrations. I am finding it difficult to make that interface feel as instant and satisfying as good old pen on paper. Nothing beats that.

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This painting was a commission from my good mate Jett for her husband

CU L TU RE | AMY GARDNER

GOSLING Mirko’s birthday. All she said was, “I want a skateboard with Ryan Gosling from the Notebook, a volcano and a

windsurfer.

Go!”

Already

it’s

dream commission, with so many fun elements to put together. I learnt a lot from the process of this one. I hand drew the design and then transferred it with red carbon paper. Note to self, if you’re working with a white background, don’t use red carbon paper. What a fuck around. I put it on upside down the first time. I got my nose and tail mixed up. So, I fucked around cleaning it up before getting it right on the second try. Then I painted the black lines with a fluid black acrylic paint over the stencilled-on design. Lastly, I sealed him with spray on clean matte varnish to keep the finished surface protected and as smooth as possible. The best part of this painting is the story behind the imagery. Mirko’s got a huge crush on Ryan Gosling and his favourite is The Notebook era Gosling. Obviously. The volcano is part of an inside joke for the couple, whereby

when

they

are

old

and

incontinent, when the time comes that one of them shits the bed, they are going to jump into the volcano on a small Sicilian island together. The windsurfer remained a mystery to me for a while until I asked Jett what it meant. What she said gives me such joy. “Oh, the windsurfer? That’s our shorthand for a hand job”. What a couple of legends.

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SPARKES This

portrait

Cameron

Sparkes, a local skater and video guy in Sydney who works with the guys at Passport. He’s a really friendly person with an infectious energy to skate around. The first time I saw him skating at Fernside he was cruising around videoing people and cracking the loudest, silliest jokes in all these weird voices. He’s proper funny. As one of the older skater dudes, he makes a point of being friendly to everyone, which is something that makes a huge difference as a woman skating alone, let me tell you. So, for this painting, I approached him in like 2018 and asked if I could take

some

reference.

photos We

for

ended

drawing

meeting

twice and I have so many amazing shots which are to become drawings soon. This painting was a quick colour study at first. I ended up pushing it a bit more and really liking where I got to with it.

HEY BOOFHEAD I created this painting with posca pens on top of gloss spray paint. I was just mucking around with a name I now use for my blog, Hey Boofhead. The

colours

and

dodgey

hand

lettering came from thinking about mambo and hot tuna shirts I had as a kid. I sealed the work with an acrylic clear sealer. This caused the posca paint to crack as the sealer dried, creating an unexpected weathered texture that I think I’ll try using again in the future for decoration.

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I thought I’d share a drawing as well, because it gives a sense of the foundation of my paintings. This is a drawing of a guy called Mitch. I first met him at Glebe Mini Ramp. This drawing started because there was a

CU L TU RE | AMY GARDNER

MITCH

big Halloween party at a warehouse in Marrickville called Sashimi which has a killer little mini ramp downstairs. Everyone

was

skating

around

hilarious costumes and someone got this incredible photo of Mitch that I just had to have for a drawing. It’s the details like the can of VB in his hand, his leg tattoos and his cowboy boots that made this a really fun drawing.

"MY CREATIVE STYLE IS FOCUSED ON STORY, PLACES AND PEOPLE." I g ot int o s kat ing be cause I lost m y h ou se a n d my job in t h e sa m e w eek in N ove m b e r 2016. I had jus t boug ht a sk a t eboa rd a n d h a d been lea rn in g t o pu sh in t h e b i g ca r par k ne xt t o R P A in New t ow n a t n igh t . S u dden ly I h a d a ll t h is t ime a n d n o m o ne y , s o I pour e d t hat abun da n t spa re t ime in t o sk a t in g a n d dra w in g. I left N ew t o wn and mo ve d int o a do dgy c h ea p sh a re h ou se in R edfern . I w ou ld t a k e m y self d o wn t o t he Se ymo r e C e nt r e C a r Pa rk a t n igh t t o pu sh a rou n d a n d go t ry t o lea rn t r i ck s be f or e mo ving on t o Fe rn side w h ere I spen t w eek s ju st pu mpin g on t h e ra mp a nd le ar ning t o kick t ur n alon e. I’ m n ot a n a t u ra l sk a t er a n d every t h in g c omes to m e ve r y s lo wly. Skat ing ha s t a u gh t m e t ru e pa t ien c e a n d persist en c e. A lso, I’ ve m a d e incr e dible conne c t ions t h rou gh sk a t eboa rdin g. I h a ve frien ds I w ou ld n ot ha v e me t wit hout t hos e we ek s a n d m on t h s spen t a t t h e sk a t epa rk a n d a rt I w ou ld ha v e ne ve r made if I hadn’t been ou t on m y boa rd w a t c h in g a n d t a k in g pa rt . T h er e ’s a mag ic abo ut it t hat ke eps m e c om in g ba c k for m ore. amygardner.com.au @amygardner.art amygardner.artist@gmail.com

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"SUNNY IS A KING AND STEVE IS A DIRTY

COYOTE FROM LA HAHAHAH." KING COYOTE ARE A GROUP OF MODERN-ROCK ARTISTS (COMPARED TO THE LIKES OF QOTSA, DANZIG, BRMC). THE

BAND

CONSISTS

LEAD

VOCALIST

SUNNY

ROWLANDS , DRUMMER STEVE GERBHART , GUITARIST JIMMY BUCKLEY AND GUITARIST MIKE MONTGOMERY. THE BAND IS FROM AUSTRALIA AND CALIFORNIA, USA: SUNNY & MIKE GREW UP IN PORT MACQUARIE (WHERE THE BAND CURRENTLY RESIDES), STEVE IS FROM LA & JIMMY HAILING FROM NEWCASTLE... KING COYOTE FORMED IN JANUARY 2018 AFTER STARS ALIGNING AND WORLDS COLLIDING.

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CU L TU RE | K ING COY OTE

LET’S CHAT COCA COLA, MEANING YOUR NEW HIT. WHERE DID THE IDEA OF THIS SONG COME FROM? From spending too much time where we shouldn’t be, where we were we aren’t anymore and we hope we won’t be there again unless we need another song haha . HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR MUSIC STYLE? As a band we would like to describe ourselves as having a different sound and style to other bands at this time. We chase the sound of heavy riffs, big drums, rolling bass and screamin’ vocals - stuff that really gets the blood pumping. We strongly believe in the resurgence of rock in Australia, it’s been too long. HOW DID YOU ALL GET INTO MUSIC? MIKE Our young blooded member, had always listened to his Old Man’s CD’s growing up which has given him a healthy knowledge and respect for music of a bunch of styles and tastes. However he was truly inspired to start playing after seeing Ash Grunwald play at Wildwood Festival in 2014, at age 12. Music has been nonstop for him ever since. STEVE I grew up in a musical family so music had always been an integral part of my life. I was classically trained in trumpet and singing since I was about eight. I picked up a few different instruments on my musical journey but things just clicked when I got my first drum set in high school.

SUNNY I took my first breath and here I am. JIMMY I Grew up listening to Slayer and Metallica as a wee child thanks to the heavy influence of my older brothers. I didn't pick up an instrument until music class in year 7 but I've been riffing out on the guitar ever since. WHAT HAS BEEN A HIGHLIGHT MOMENT AS A BAND? In early October of 2019 we opened up for ‘Grinspoon’ at the Kingscliff Beach Hotel, it was huge for us being able to open up for Aussie rock royalty, especially being so early on in our career. DO YOU HAVE ANY UP AND COMING TOUR DATES WE SHOULD LOOK OUT FOR? At the moment we are currently working on some secret business for the near future, something that has been festering in the back of our minds for years. In order for us to rip off the band-aid for this project, we have decided to put a halt on shows for the time being. However, keep an eye out for some bigger shows for us in the next few months! WHERE DID THE NAME KING COYOTE COME FROM? Sunny and Steve, came up with the idea of ‘King Coyote’ after jamming for a while. Each word relates to each of the members, as Sunny is a King and Steve is a dirty Coyote from LA hahahah.

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T h e COV I D -1 9 s itu ation es c alated m u c h f a s t e r th an m os t of u s an tic ip ated an d th e effe c t s o n lifes ty le, c om m u n ity an d b u s in es s in c lu d i ng o ur ow n w er e s w ift an d ex tr em e. E ven t h ou gh h ere in A u st ra lia ba rberin g h a s been deemed essen t ia l, in t h e ea rly st a ge s o f t h e pa n dem ic t h e fea r w it h in t h e c om m u n i t y w a s rea l a n d w e fielded a lot of c a lls from o ur t ra de pa rt n ers a sk in g for a dvic e on w h a t t o d o , expressin g t h eir issu es bot h men t a l a n d f i na nci a l . Immedia t ely w e a s a bu sin ess ma de a u n i f i e d dec ision t h a t despit e ou r ow n loss of t ra d e a nd st a n din g dow n of st a ff t h a t w e w ou ld do wha t w e c ou ld t o su pport a n d h opefu lly u plift t he c ommu n it y a n d c on su mers t h a t h a ve su p p o r t e d u s. T h is w as a 2 p h as e p r o g r am . • First ph a se bein g t h e in t rodu c t ion of our ‘BA CK Y OU R B A R B E R ’ progra m. T h is a llow s t h e b a r b e r s forc ed t o c lose a n d w it h ou t a n e-c om m er ce pla t form , t o en c ou ra ge t h eir pa t ron s t o s ho p direc t via w w w .k in gbrow n poma de.c om a nd n om in a t e t h eir sh op w h ic h w ill t h en see 2 0 % o f t h e sa le a lloc a t ed t o t h em in t h e form of s t o ck c redit for fu t u re u se. W e h a ve seen a bou t 5 0 % o f ou r w eb sa les offer n om in a t ion s bu t w e’ d l o v e t o see 90% + a s w e c on t in u e t o ru n t h e offer t i l l a t lea st en d of J u n e. • S ec on d ph a se w a s movin g c on versa t ion s t o a broa d a u dien c e via t h e digit a l pla t for m IN S T A G R A M L IV E . L a u n c h ed on 14t h A pril w i t h 1 in t erview per da y w e a re en ga gin g w it h a w ide va riet y of gu est s (17 in t ot a l), bot h w i t hi n t h e ba rberin g in du st ry a n d bey on d. W e fe l t i t im port a n t t o get a broa d c ross spec t ru m o f opin ion s on h ow t h is pa n demic is a ffec t ing no t on ly ou r in du st ry bu t men t a l h ea lt h , h osp i t a l i t y , m a n u fa c t u rin g, media , a t h let es, c elebrit ie s a nd m ore. W e by n o mea n s t h in k t h a t eit h er progra m i s revolu t ion a ry n or w ill t h ey dra m a t ic a lly a l t e r t h e c ou rse of h ist ory in t h is t ry in g t im e b ut we h a ve a mora l obliga t ion t o su pport a n d le a d o ur c om m u n it y by posit ive exa mple a n d w e int e nd t o do t h a t a t a ll t imes. C h eers a n d st a y sa fe Da en , Da n a n d t h e K B T ea m

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THINGS TO DO

WHILE

IN QUARANTINE

For those of you guys and gals who are used to sitting through the Swan Lake ballet, a Shakespearian play, an NFL game in real time, or a 5-day cricket test, you will be well versed in how to handle boredom. HOWEVER for those of you looking for interesting things to do to pass the time in quarantine, I have come up with some of my top 3’s. If one of my suggestions works for you, my work is done!

PODCASTS 1 . UNDE R TH E SK IN VULNE RABILITY P OWE R Russel Brand interviews Brené Brown about her expert research on vulnerability, courage and shame. I only ever related bravery to men at war and a thing other people possessed. However, I went on a spiritual journey with Brand and Brené Brown, with her charming story telling and wisdom. I now use this knowledge in my day-to-day life. I recognise myself as a person wanting to live in the Arena and not as a spectator.

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CU L TU RE | th in gs to do

2 . T H E H O WI E G A M E S W I T H M A R K H O WA R D If you are a sports fan then this will be right up your alley. Mark Howard has been commentating for over a decade on Australian TV and radio channels across several sporting codes from AFL, motor racing and cricket. This is a sit down over a beer kind of scenario interview, with the biggest sporting names in Australian sports. The highest high, to tear jerking lows. Favourite interviews to date are Shane Warne #63, Daniel Ricciardo #90, Danny Green #2, Mick Fanning #27

3 . TH E JOE ROGAN E XP E RIE NCE 2019â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most listened to Podcast! If you need a laugh, Joe Rogan is an American comedian, actor, sports commentator and martial artist. His interviews of other comedians and most funny of all, are the interviews with intellectual scientists, that get you thinking and laughing at the same time. Favourite Interview. Elon Musk on Artificial Intelligence #1169

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BOOKS

1. THE SUBTLE ART OF NOT G I V I NG A F * C K MARK MANSON I’m not apposed to the odd self-help book here and there, for a bit of self-improvement (many argue I probably don’t need it). However this book has a difference! The premise being a counter-intuitive look at being endlessly positive in the pursuit of happiness, but using the author’s personal experiences and struggles to give meaning to life. Enjoyably blunt and honest approach to self-help, if you don’t mind the swearing!

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CU L TU RE | th in gs to do

2. TH E CURIOUS INCIDE NT OF THE DOG IN TH E NIGH T- TIME – MARK H ADDON This is a great read, narrated from the first person perspective, about a fifteen-year-old boy who is said to be on the autism spectrum. The story is his investigation of the death of a neighbour’s dog. Although the author claims the book is not about Asperger’s or Autism but instead about being different! That said it is incredibly insightful into how people with recognised behavioural difficulties perceive the world. After all we’re all on the spectrum somewhere - Winner of the Whitbread Book Awards – Best Novel & Book of the Year

3. 1984 – G EOR G E O RWE L L This, the ultimate piece of dystopian fiction (written in 1948 by the way). Precise to the point of becoming a cliché. A society that took paranoid surveillance of the Soviets to chilling conclusions. Winston the hero tries to resist the grey world where you are monitored at all times. Bravery is ultimately futile when the state worms its way inside your mind. Many terminologies used in the book have become common day language such as Big Brother, Thought crime and Room 101.

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NETFLIX DOCS

1 . G A ME C H A N G E R S Plant based diets have been out there for a long time, but it seemed exclusively for a minority of trend setting, hipsters, whom lived on the Northern Beaches, Byron Bay, and Fitzroy. Then you had the die-hard sect, whom lived off the grid and off their land. However since this Netflix release of 'Game Changers', which outlines how we can contribute to make a difference to our environment, without becoming veggie gun toting extremist, just by making small adjustment to our diets. Even I became a reduce-etarian (if you have time and to support the plant based message home, watch Netflix doc â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cowspiracyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;).

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CU L TU RE | th in gs to do

2 . FO RM U L A 1 D R I V E T O S U RV IV E 2 SE ASONS I grew up as an avid fan of Formula 1! In the days of Nigel Mansell & Ayrton Senna, I lost interest in the lack of personality the sport had to offer, somewhere in Schumacher’s reign…. Until now! The Docu-Series Drive to Survive takes you behind the scenes of the politics of the teams, the story behind the money, the show of raw power of the cars and the tension of the drivers behind the wheel. Season 1 & 2 showcase the 2018 and 2019 season, condensed into its best moments.

3 . T I GE R K IN G M UR D E R M A Y HE M A ND M A DN E S S WTF!!!… Where do I go with this tripped out version of the Truman show but with a cast of the most out there, hill-billy redneck M F’ers you’ll ever lighly to have the discomfort of meeting. Creates far more questions than answers but BASICALLY an American true crime drama about the life of a zookeeper, Joe Exotic. The series focuses on the small but deeply interconnected society of Big Cat conservationist. Including Joe’s arch rival Carol Baskin.. Hold onto your underpants kids!

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NETFLIX SERIES

1. TOP BOY 2 SE ASONS Now I might be bias, being originally from London Town, but this is a great British crime drama series and is absolutely GANGSTER! Set in the housing estates of East London. The storyline showcases the tensions between the local drug dealing community, to become Top Boy! Like many good British drama it combines great acting, good script with an awesome storyline and soundtrack. The setting also gives the viewer a realistic look at the social dysfunction of the under privileged living in London housing estates. Reminds me of home.

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CU L TU RE | th in gs to do

2 . A N I M A L K IN G D O M 4 S EA S O N S I think most fairdinkum folk will have seen the original movie with star cast and directed by David Michod. This is the American remake of Animal Kingdom created by Jonathon Lisco, as a series. All about a criminal clan family, on the most part run by the Grandmother of Josh, whom due to his mother’s premature death from a drug overdose gets caught up with his cousins criminal activities. Set in Oceanside California, this is an adrenalin rush soap opera, full of surf, sex, drugs and rock & roll. The robbery and heist scenes are ingenious. I’m totally addicted!

3 . U P P E R MIDDLE BOGAN Taking the foot of the pedal of intense drama, this comedy series starts well and just gets better and better the more you get to know the characters. And let’s face it! We all have at least a bit of bogan in us, shouting to get out! On reflection, speaking for myself, a lot more bogan than I ever imagined. Anyway, the storyline is of Doctor Bess Denyar living happily with her hubby, an architect, and her 13-year-old twin. But her life gets turned upside down when she finds out that she was adopted and meets her drag racing, bogan, biological family. My go-to, when I want to relax switch off and have a giggle. This is an open forum so please feel free to leave any feedback about my choices and recommendations you may have.

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FEATU RE | BARBER STORY

n the year 2000 my mum got cancer so dad was very busy with chemotherapy and everything that came with it. So I began to cut my brothers hair then my Aunty brought over her kids for me to cut their hair and that was when I discovered a newly found passion and I decided that I wanted to be a barber, I was 13 years old at this stage. After mum finished chemo dad sent us to Lebanon to live with mum and her family. I rebelled against the school system and wanted to be a barber. Mum and dad didn't like the idea but let me go to a private college which taught me to cut hair. The college was amazing. They took us around Lebanon cutting hair for orphans for free. For 1 year straight that's where my journey began. In 2005 I returned to Australia and started working for a friend of my father. He was a very smart man who successfully ran a few shops. I loved and respected this man. I said I am going to build a brand one day and work so hard to make it one of the best shops that Sydney has ever seen. In 2011 I got a break through, finding a little 17sqm shop in Hunter Connection. Not ever owning a shop just dreaming it until now, I got my name on the lease and it all started 1/9/2011. I didn't even know what to call the shop so my old boss told me to call it style plus barber. I didn't like the name but was so excited for the shop and to do what I love doing and for myself the name wasn't an issue. I built the shop from the ground up to having myself and other amazing barbers involved.

day off. Me and Ali used to ride bikes together and Ali was opening his shop and needed help finding a name. I went on ASIC and SYDNEY BARBERS was available which to me was a massive massive shock. And I loved the name. I knew this would be what I wanted to build. But I was looking for a name for Ali and offered it to him. Ali said nope I don't want that name it's not for me. So I rebranded my shop in 2016 to Sydney Barbers. In 2017 Ali was in a bike accident and passed away. This was very hard on me and my family and the barber world because the barber world lost the most funny and amazing human. In Feb 2018 I relocated to a bigger 42sqm shop with the capacity of 7 chairs, it was a big challenge and a huge risk to take, moving from 3 chairs to 7 was one of the scariest things I've had to endure, but through the support of family and the barbers I had at the time, we recruited 3 more barbers making a total of 7, but like always I pushed to make it happen and give it my all. I made sure that all the barbers give the best haircuts and I started building a brand. In November 2019 I took a gamble and opened Sydney Barbers in the same Center but 1 level down, with only one thing in mind, I had to keep building this brand. I am 33 now and still love cutting hair and being in a barber shop. I can't stay away. Sincerely Sydney Barbers.

I met a guy (Ali Mohana), Ali was one of the best people and best barbers to walk into my life. He used to work for another good friend of mine Moe Sabra and occasionally would come help me out on his

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American Barber Haircare

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(03) 9555 1533 | sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au | 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia 90

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(03) 9555 1533 | sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au | 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia

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