THE DISH Young & Hungry
Table of Contents Cookbook Recommendation
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Think Outside The Coffee Mug
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Morning Made Easy
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A Jarring Affair
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Culinary Class in Session:
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The Winter Vegetable Pizza The Best Dough For Your Dough
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Young and Hungry Young and Farming
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Young and Creating
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Last Course
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Photo by Serena Steinfeld
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Editor In Chief Daniella Byck Features Editor Olivia Jones Recipe Editor Elizabeth Geboy Art Director Zoey Rugel Social Media & Marketing Director Carli Gordon Webmaster Lydia Lai Writers Annie McGrail, Annie Trucco, Daniella Byck, Elizabeth Geboy, Mary Quinlan, Olivia Jones, Zhaoyan Zhang, Genevieve Vahl Photographers Claire Burden, Daniella Byck, Elizabeth Geoby, Melissa Simon, Serena Steinfeld, Zhaoyan Zhang Layout Genevieve Vahl, Zoey Rugel WUD Publications Committee Director Malik Anderson WUD Publications Committee Advisor Jim Rogers Wisconsin Union President Iffat Bhuiyan Cover photo by Carli Gordon
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Letter from the editor
Daniella Byck Editor-In-Chief
I am the exact person you never want to go out to eat with. Once my dish is placed before me, I wait. While I wish I could say it is out of courtesy, my fellow diners know better. The mad dash begins as soon as all of the plates and bowls have been set down. Like a game of culinary tetris, I begin shuffling dishes around in an attempt to find the perfect balance of color, shape and light. Inspired by the Wild West, I pull out my phone like a pistol slinging cowboy. I am somewhat ashamed to admit I have even kneeled on stools in less crowded restaurants, craving the perfect angle. If we’re eating pizza, I ask my friends to pull a slice, the cheese rippling in its oozing glory. If bagels are on the menu, the sandwiches are stacked amidst a chorus of eye rolls. Capturing food and subsequently uploading it to Instagram is the uncanny appetizer of millennials everywhere. In his essay, “The Work of Art in Mechanical Production,” Walter Benjamin describes how reproduction cheapens the aura of art. Some could say the rise of the food Instagram is doing the same to the aura of a good meal. While the photo ritual might seem gauche and unpolished to some, I believe it is significant of something larger to my generation. We approach food as a shared experience, worth appreciation, commentary and conversation even if it’s not being directly consumed. Uploading a photo of a rare or extraordinary meal opens flavor boundaries and stretches the imagination. Doing the same to an ubiquitous dish is part of building a global community with a collective food memory. Hashtagging young adults and the transforming food landscape were the inspiration for this issue’s theme: Young and Hungry. In this edition, we look at the young talent molding Madison’s cuisine. The farmers in F.H. King are using their status as students to inspire an educationled approach to agriculture. The chefs interviewed in this issue are all under 30 years old with fresh voices cultivating the unique local food scene. The recipes we covered were selected with Madison’s thriving student community in mind. We hope the cuisine and stories capture the spirit and soul of young Madison: ambitious, optimistic and empowered.
Photos by Serena Steinfeld
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Cookbook Recommedation For the less than experienced chef, cooking can turn into a catastrophe quickly, especially when attempting anything more sophisticated than scrambled eggs. Luckily, there is a way to feed an appetite for delicious food, regardless of one’s culinary ability—mug meals!
By Annie Trucco Photos by Claire Burden
spice flavor, provide a quick taste of home.
Not only are mug meals delicious, but they are also convenient. Bilderback anticipated that a dorm room or apartment may not have all the fixings of a home kitchen, and provided a “common food substitutions” Lately it seems like Facebook feeds are nothing but section at the back of the book. This section also 30-second videos that depict mouthwatering recipes includes a conversion table, because sometimes, no like “Mozzarella-Stuffed Slow Cooked Meatballs” matter how simple the fractions may be, our brains and “Cake in a Cup.” While the fact that you can need a helping hand. bake a cake in the microwave may be surprising, many people do not realize that almost any meal can As a freshman, I loved turning to this book whenever be made in the microwave, in a mug, in minutes! I would get sick of the salad bar at Gordon Dining I was first enlightened by this possibility when I Hall, but didn’t want to splurge on eating out. There received Leslie Bilderback’s cookbook, “Mug Meals: are so many options in “Mug Meals” that you are More Than 100 No-Fuss Ways to Make a Delicious bound to find a simple and less-expensive alternative Microwave Meal in Minutes,” as a high school to any of your favorite restaurants on State Street. graduation gift. Replace your order at Asian Kitchen with some Kung Pao Chicken in a mug or, try the Pecorino Pesto The lengthy title says it all, but what is great about Penne instead of your regular Penne with Vodka this cookbook is that Bilderback wrote it specifically sauce at Tutto Pasta. for college students. She explains in the introduction that although anyone can use these mug recipes, she As mug meals tend to be alternatives to breaking the wrote “Mug Meals” when she had two kids living in bank, the book itself can be purchased on Amazon for dorm rooms and wanted them to eat more than cereal just $10.99, which let’s face it, is probably less expensive and Ramen noodles. than a meal at Glaze. The endless possibilities that the cookbook provides make it a valuable investment The book has over 100 simple recipes, in categories for your dorm room, apartment or wherever you may by Breakfast Baking, Mug Eggs Anytime, Soups + need to feed yourself quickly and on a budget! Stews, Meaty Traditions, Birds + Fish, Pasta, Veggies + Grains and last but not least, Mug Sweets. I am still Cooking for yourself is a rewarding experience, and working on trying all 100+ recipes in the book, but so can be an escape within a busy schedule. Mug Meals: far I have yet to be frustrated or dissatisfied with one More Than 100 No-Fuss Ways to Make a Delicious of Bilderback’s recipes. Microwave Meal in Minutes brings out the amatueur chef in every college student and opens the microwave My favorite mug meal from the book is the Pumpkin door to endless delicious meal possibilities. Muffins: they have never failed me. The recipe makes enough batter for two. I love these muffins because they remind me of the pumpkin bread that my mom makes every year for the holidays. The warm, soft texture that the muffins have fresh out of the microwave, coupled with the comforting pumpkin
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Think outside the coffee mug Alternatives to coffee at coffee shops By Genevieve Vahl This past spring, I spent time in Washington state in the Pacific Northwest. My goal was to see both the natural world along the coast, as well as the city life in Seattle. While touring alone in a new city, coffee shops became an essential stop in getting the full experience of each new neighborhood I explored. Book and journal in hand, spending time alone did not seem to feel so lonely. The rich smells of freshly ground coffee and homemade baked goods evoked a sense of comfort and warmth that made such an unknown city familiar. The local strangers working around me in a new city were not much different than those in Wisconsin, making home feel a lot closer than 2,000 miles away. Immersed in the all too familiar coffee shop setting with a book and journal just a reach away, being alone in such a large city suddenly did not feel so lonely. While coffee shop hopping throughout Seattle, drinking coffee at every stop was not a sustainable option. My body could not keep up with the amount of caffeine I was consuming throughout the day. However, one afternoon I came upon a shop near my Airbnb that stuck out over the others. As I was scanning the menu ready to settle for yet another mug of coffee, I noticed they had kombucha on tap. Kombucha being one of my favorite beverages, I was truly amazed at the brilliance of such a menu feature. The idea of having such a unique alternative to coffee sparked my interest. For people who do not like coffee, or in my case, need some time to decaffeinate, serving alternatives to coffee at coffee shops can amplify anyone’s experience. Bringing this idea back to the midwest, I surveyed Madison coffee shops for the best alternatives to coffee offered, finding some interesting and exciting new options to turn to on and around campus. Photo by Genevieve Vahl
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Colectivo Starting with a Wisconsin classic, Colectivo provides a variety of options to chose from other than coffee. From the smoothies to their vast Letterbox tea collection, an option can be found for anyone. The SPORTea, a summertime favorite of mine, provides a refreshing natural boost of energy. As a mix of green and black tea, the SPORTea does not contain any caffeine, yet provides rejuvenating electrolytes. On a hot summer day, an iced SPORTea acts as a hydrating substitute to any coffee beverage. It has an aromatic, sweet flavor similar to that of a hot tea. But if you’re lucky and get a glass from a good batch, the SPORTea is much more pungent than a normal herbal tea. If you’re willing to splurge a little, Colectivo’s smoothie options are another delicious option for noncoffee drinkers. The Berry Booster in particular is a blended medley of frozen berries with fruit juice, yogurt and frozen banana. The combination of these fruity delights compliments each other well. The banana provides a nice textural base for the smoothie in accordance with the yogurt, as well as tame the tartness of the berries. The tangy berries make this smoothie irresistibly sweet and perfectly tart. Not only a delicious coffee alternative, this smoothie is also a healthy dessert treat.
Fair Trade Coffee House Fair Trade Coffee House, just east of Gorham on State, also has delicious smoothie options to quench any thirst. The PBB smoothie has a hearty body that literally can satiate hunger. With a base of frozen bananas and a small amount of ice, peanut butter, chocolate and whole milk are added to make a savory smoothie that is dense, filling and satisfies a craving without being too sweet or unhealthy. Despite the slightly expensive price tag, this smoothie is unique among many as I have not found many other places to serve a nutty based smoothie. It tastes and has the consistency of a milkshake, but without the ice cream indulgence. I would not say Fair Trade has the largest selection of alternatives because of their devotion to providing responsibly, fairly traded coffee to their customers. They pride themselves in devoting their mission to being “a fullon committed partner to [their] roaster ... and small farmers to insure that everyone wins in this crazy system called capitalism.” Supporting small, local businesses like Fair Trade goes beyond just Madison business but also has an indirect positive effect on those around the world. Whether in for their responsibly sourced coffee or the PBB smoothie, Fair Trade is worth the stop in for a delicious beverage. Photos Simon Photosby byMelissa Claire Burden
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Barriques Barriques, just off the Capitol Square on West Washington, offers a great selection of herbal teas making for a comfortable visit in the lofted shop front. The bi-level shop has optimal seating on both floors along windows and the unique rod iron banister overlooking the first floor. Served both iced or hot, the tangerine ginger herbal tea is a must try. A full bodied, potent tea the color of a beet, this tea truly activated my taste buds. The smell alone soothed my soul, much less when I actually tasted it. It made for a warm, striking drink on one of the first real days of fall. The neon yellow turmeric ginger tea is another beautiful option, just a little less full flavored. I drank this aromatic tea iced and was surprised by the subtle flavor in comparison to it’s vibrant color. Although hidden by construction scaffolding at the moment, Barriques gives a chance for students to venture a bit off main campus serving beautifully essenced alternatives to coffee. If you’re feeling too caffeinated but still want the coffee shop environment or simply do not care for coffee or espresso, providing alternatives to coffee can serve everyone’s needs. I have yet to find any kombucha served on tap around Madison, but there are many alternatives that can span a broad clientele. Whether you believe coffee shops have the obligation of serving coffee substitutes or not, I find having the option reassuring to know I can spend time out and about in public without feeling the pressures of being limited to one type of drink. The soothing familiarity within the warm confines of a coffee shop can make any new place a comfortable stay. Having coffee alternatives gives everyone a chance to enjoy the subtle humdrum of the coffee shop nature while enjoying a delicious beverage of their choice.
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Photos by Genevieve Vahl
Morning made easy
By Annie McGrail
Photos by CLaire burden BEEP. BEEP. Snooze. BEEP. BEEP. Snooze. Everyone has mornings when we stay in bed longer than expected and in college it seems to happen a few too many times. For many, sleeping through alarms and getting up late starts the day in a rush. But wanting to sleep a few more minutes doesn’t have to result in missing breakfast, the most important meal of the day. So instead of skipping breakfast, make it easy! Eating breakfast gets your day started right, kicks in your metabolism and fuels your activity throughout the day. Not only is it good for the body, but it wakes your brain up too, which is especially important for those morning classes. Meal prep can be a great way to enjoy your meals, without the stress of having to make them three times a day. We lead busy lives and making four breakfasts on a Sunday night will same you time, and will still provide you with morning energy. We have a few recipes to help make your mornings more delicious and easier. With two different ways to make oats and an easy sweet french toast treat, your breakfast meals will be changed for the better!
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Overnight Oats Overnight oats take your weekly meal prep to the next level. You make it the night before, keep it in the fridge and grab it on your way out of the house in the morning. It doesn’t get much easier than that! There are endless ingredient combinations of overnight oats, so you won’t get tired of eating the same thing.
Ingredients Makes two smaller batches, or one larger one 1/3 c greek yogurt (can be substituted with non-greek yogurt) 2/3 c milk 1/2 c old fashioned oats 1 tbsp chia seeds Pinch of salt ¼ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp vanilla 2 tbsp dark chocolate chips ½ chopped banana Combine yogurt, milk, old fashioned oats and chia seeds. Then, mix in salt, cinnamon and vanilla to taste. Pour mixture into mason jars. Refrigerate for at least five hours. Before eating, top with chocolate chips, bananas or other additions!
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Baked oatmeal
A perfect breakfast: a cup of coffee and baked oatmeal. All the work is done before you get up, making baked oatmeal is something that can be made on a Sunday night for the upcoming week.
Makes: four baked oatmeals Ingredients 1 overripe banana ¼ cup melted Butter ½ cup milk 2 cups old-fashioned oats ¼ tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla ¼ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp baking soda 1 tbsp dried cranberries, raisins, or nuts 1 cup yogurt, plain or flavored
Preheat oven to 375° and grease cupcake tin (only 4 needed). Mash banana in a medium bowl, add butter, salt, cinnamon and vanilla mix well. Pour in milk, add oats and stir until combined. Divide the oat mixture into greased cupcake pan and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool. Keep in a container in the refrigerator until ready to eat.
When you’re ready for breakfast – Remove one oatmeal cup from the fridge and place in microwave safe bowl or mug. Heat in microwave for 20 seconds. Add cranberries or other desired toppings and heat for 20 additional seconds. Top with ¼ cup yogurt, and enjoy!
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Simply Delicious French Toast
French toast might seem like a more complicated breakfast to make… but it is very simple! You can even make the egg mixture the night before, to save time in the morning. This tasty breakfast will help you start your day, and who doesn’t love a simple and delicious breakfast?
Ingredients 4-6 servings ½ tbsp butter 1 egg ½ cup milk 1 tsp vanilla ½ tsp cinnamon 4-6 Slices of bread Maple syrup
Heat a skillet on medium heat, and add the butter. In a shallow bowl, crack the egg and add the milk. Stir well and add the vanilla and cinnamon. Dip both sides of bread into the mixture then place bread in the skillet. Cook until golden brown, 2-3 minutes per side. Serve with butter and maple syrup.
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A Jarring Affair
By Olivia Jones
photos by daniella byck
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In my home, cans are coveted. Thick-lipped, glassbodied and tin-topped jars line our pantry’s shelves. We collect them year round, peeling off jelly labels, scraping away peanut butter and rinsing out old residues. Without the jars, the success of our day is futile. Granola day comes once a year. The preparation is similar to that of an animal’s forage before the first snowfall. The kitchen counters are covered in varied seeds, aluminum tins and wooden mixing spoons. With a batch being baked to last us the year, the day starts early. On the front lines of our marathon is my father. He begins the process at morning. With years of experience in his back pocket, he has built a foundation for what goes into the oven and what comes out. When he first starts to sense the days getting shorter and a twinge in the temperature he surely comments: “It’s time to make granola!” Each year substitutions are made, things are added and one batch never comes out just the same as the other. But somehow, every year tastes better than the last. Ingredient by ingredient the aluminum tubs begin to fill. To start, hearty oats make the basis for the blend. Nuts and seeds of all varieties are are sprinkled in to bolster the filling effects our granola offers. With toasted coconut flakes, brown sugar and handfuls of dried cherries, the mix begins to resemble the harvest of the recently forgotten fall. However, the most important aspects of the recipe are the ones that cannot be seen. Holding everything together is the sweet stickiness of honey, smooth canola oil and the crisp tastes of apple juice. It is finished off with
the unexpected: a splash of brandy and topped with pinch of salt. Tossed and ready, the batch makes its way to the oven. Once cooked, the granola is broiled for the final addition of a satisfying crunch, that with each bite releases a delicious blend of flavor, greeted by impressive handfuls and ravenous chomps. This process continues throughout the day. Batch after batch, tub after tub, heaps of granola enter and exit the oven, adding to the stash that will last us the year. Piles of CDs play on rotation and in the middle of the day a nap usually ensues. However, the granola keeps cooking; its sweet aroma filling each corner of our home, and by the end of the day the scents are bursting from the foundation. When the final tubs are toasted and the heaps have cooled, the canning process begins. The collected jars are taken from their shelves and lined up in rows. Each jar is filled with this year’s granola, preserving more than just ingredients, but the memories of our yearly affair in the kitchen. Through the months, our supply will dwindle in anticipation for the next time we roar the oven to replenish our stock. Soon enough jars will start to collect again on the shelves of our pantry, we will gorge ourselves on a freezer full of granola, but we won’t tire of the savory and sweet crunch. When away at school, choosing the granola off the shelf brings me back to days spent in the kitchen, sideby-side with my dad, dogs at our feet, and Crosby, Stills & Nash on the stereo. With every handful and every bite, I think about the rewarding labors of our day that bring us together for a family communion even when we’re apart. For as far as we travel from the kitchen, there will always be a jar of granola.
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Brandy & Brown Sugar Granola
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Note: Amounts do not have to be precise and you can add or subtract depending on what you can find. 8-9 cups oats 3-6 cups wheat germ 5 cups of chopped or halved cashews 1 cup sesame seeds (or seed of your choice) 5 cups pecans, halved 3-4 cups whole or shaved almonds 5 cups shelled sunflower seeds 2-3 cups pepitas 2 cups oat flour 1-2 cups sunflower meal (or substitute with 1 cup of whole wheat flour) 1 pound of brown sugar 2 tablespoons of salt 1 to 2 pounds of dried cherries or cranberries 4 cups shaved (not flaked) coconut 1 cup apple juice 1 cup canola oil 1 ½ -2 cups honey ¼ cup of brandy Preheat oven to 200 degrees F. Lightly toast the coconut on a baking sheet until just starting to turn light brown. Set aside for later. Increase oven temperature to 300. In a large bowl, combine dry ingredients. In another smaller bowl, mix together wet ingredients. Pour the wet ingredients over the oat mixture, combine until ingredients stick together. Spread on baking sheets and roast for about 30 minutes, rotate pans once during baking. Sprinkle the coconut on top. With baking sheet in middle of oven, use the broiling function for no more that 2 to 3 minutes. Watch closely so the granola don’t burn. Let cool and divide into jars.
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Culinary Class is in Session: The Winter Vegetable Pizza story and photos By Daniella Byck
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It’s almost the time of year when the most haunting ghost of all make its biannual visit to campus. No, it is not Halloween: welcome to Finals Week. More chilling than Lake Mendota’s glassy layer of ice, Finals Week is a time when your favorite sweatpants make their grand reveal for the third day in a row and individually established rules of eating go out the window. Green apple Hi-Chew embody the old idiom “an apple a day keeps the doctor away” and jumbo cups of black coffee suffice as a meal. Maybe it’s the pending stress or the strange hours, but for me, Finals Week means greasy eats and lots of them to console the soul of an overworked student. ‘Tis the season for comfort food—even if it leaves the brain slogging slower than ever, repeatedly reading the same paragraph. But as I enter my final year of college, I’ve come to encounter a level of wisdom: you can, in fact, have it all. That’s right! Gather around, naive freshmen, and learn the lessons of this jaded college senior. Feel-good-in-the-moment food can also be a long term A+. We’ll take on pizza, the ultimate collegiate comfort meal, and transform the usual delivery slice into a special study break snack. Welcome to the winter vegetable pizza. It all begins with an easy, store-bought base. You might not have time to learn the secret methods of Naples, Italy, but you could take a moment to trot down to your local grocery store and pick up pre-made dough. Plenty of pizza restaurants and markets offer balls of dough for purchase. But our favorite is the Pillsbury Refrigerated Pizza Crust— simply pop, unroll and bake. Respecting the seasons and their offerings is the best way to bring strong out flavors in their most prime state. Like any project worth undertaking, you’ll be better off if you start with a little research. In this case, Wikipedia is considered an appropriate source and no citation is
necessary. Check out what vegetables are in season—right now, that includes hearty leaves like kale, cruciferous brussel sprouts and antioxidant rich sweet potatoes. All the good things you should be putting into your body if you are about to lock yourself in a Memorial Library cage for hours on end. Select a sauce of choice as the bottom of layer. Or, if you’re feeling especially minimalistic, skip the sauce and lightly brush your base with a glaze of olive oil. When it comes to building a winter vegetable pizza, there are no rules or rubrics. Toss off that overtly analytical hat: you’re the captain now. Take whatever combination of winter vegetables you like and place them on the dough. If you’re looking for Instagram extra credit, thinly slice or mandolin the more rotund vegetables to create a layered, crop circle esque design. Now that you’ve harvested some good karma with those brain-powering veggies, it’s time to reward yourself for all your hard work. Even just making the walk to the library is considered a win when the stingy wind makes all of Madison a wind tunnel. Take the cheese of your choice and add indulgently. Shredding an entire block of cheese is the magical stress relief of turophiles everywhere. Make note to look up turophile later and integrate into an essay for bonus points. At this point, you can throw your pizza into the oven and use the fifteen or so minutes before it emerges to practice a little self care. Take a hot shower, put on a face mask or just sit and watch an old episode of “The Office.” Anything that doesn’t involve the obscenely expensive textbook written by your professor. Once the timer beeps, take a moment to appreciate what you’ve created: a vibrant, vegetable-rich dish that satisfies your craving for comfort and your need for nutrition. And if you sneak a slice or two into a study room? You will have shown Finals Week who is boss.
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Brussel Sprout & Caramelized Onion Pizza Recipe by Ariela Rivkin
Ingredients Prepared pizza dough 2 cups brussel sprouts 1 red onion 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes 1 tsp salt 1 clove fresh garlic 3 tbsp olive oil 2 cups shredded parmesan cheese
Directions Preheat oven to 415 F. Roughly chop the garlic, slice red onion into thin slices, and cut brussel sprouts in quarters. In a pan over medium high heat, add one tablespoon of olive oil and half the chopped garlic. When the garlic is lightly browned, add red onions and caramelize for five minutes. Mix in the brussel sprouts, and add red pepper flakes. Cook for another five minutes before removing from heat. Roll out dough onto prepared baking sheet. Combine remaining garlic, olive oil and salt. Spread mixture onto pizza dough. Sprinkle half the parmesan cheese onto dough. Spoon on the brussel sprout and onion mixture, and top with the remaining parmesan cheese. Bake for 15 minutes or until the crust begins to brown.
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Beet Pesto & Goat Cheese Pizza
Recipe by Molly Galinson Ingredients Prepared pizza dough 1 sweet potato ½ cup olive oil 1 clove of garlic, minced 3 sprigs of fresh rosemary 1 lemon, juiced and zested 7-10 tbsp ricotta cheese 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp honey 1 cup arugula Parmesan to taste
Directions Preheat oven to 475 F. Cut sweet potato into thin medallions using a mandolin or thin manual cuts. In a medium sized bowl, combine half of the olive oil, garlic, rosemary and lemon zest. Add sweet potato medallions to the mixture and let marinade for 10-20 minutes.
Recipe by Hannah Teller
To assemble the pizza: Roll out dough on a prepared baking sheet. Layer the sweet potatoes in a circular pattern. Pour remaining marinade over the pizza.
Ingredients Prepared pizza dough 1 ½ cups beet pesto (see below) 1 cup goat cheese 1 cup kale 2 tbsp olive oil
Place the pizza on the lowest rack for four minutes. Rotate pizza and move to middle rack for ten minutes. Add 7-10 dollops of ricotta cheese to the pizza.
Beet Pesto ½ cup pine nuts ½ cup shredded parmesan cheese 3 cloves garlic ½ cup olive oil Fresh lemon juice
Rotate pizza a final time on the highest oven rack for three minutes. Remove pizza and allow to cool for 5-10 minutes. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, lemon juice, salt and honey. Add the arugula to the center of the pizza and top with dressing, toasted pine nuts and parmesan.
Directions Preheat oven to 350 F. To make beet pesto: Wrap beets in tin foil and roast for 45 minutes. When to cool, peel and chop. Blend beets with the parmesan cheese, garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. For smoother pesto, drizzle in more olive oil and blend more. To assemble the pizza: Roll out dough on a prepared baking sheet. Spread pesto onto dough. Distribute goat cheese over pizza base. In a large bowl, use your hands to massage kale with olive oil, salt and pepper. Layer over pesto and cheese. Bake at 325 F for 20 minutes, until bottom and crust are browned.
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The best dough for your dough By Mary Quinlan photo by daniella byck There is, without a doubt, no better feeling than biting into a warm, cheesy, greasy and oh-sosatisfying slice of heaven. It could be as simple as a quick craving quencher in between exams or a full on carb-up before a night out. Whatever the case, here in Madison you have options to get that authentic, wood-fired pizza without having to book the first flight out to Rome. Here we laid out some of the best places to splurge and save on the classic wood-fired pizza.
Lucille $15-30 per person
Located at a sharp corner off of Capitol Square, Lucille resides in the trendy First Settlement District of downtown. All of the Yelp reviews could not have prepared me enough for the feeling that hit me walking into the tri-level venue. The ambiance itself made me want to take a moment to actually soak it all in as opposed to updating my location on Snapchat. The compilation of conversations and laughter made for overwhelming resonances that bounced off of the walls for one cohesive sound – it was as if I could hear everything and nothing all at the same time. My party and I walked up the center staircase to the wraparound mezzanine where we settled into a comfortable booth. Our empty stomachs were left growling even more with our first glance at the menu. With a long list of snacks and sharables, Lucille proved itself to be the perfect get-together space. After much debate and consideration, we settled to start with the Steel Pan Nachos partnered with the Italian Pantry Salad, both of which are easy to share and make for great conversations. The nachos were a tall mountain of deliciousness, with the oozing mozzarella and house-made queso mixing itself with pork shoulder and all the other nachos essentials: pico de gallo, sour cream, pickled onions and jalapeños. Beware: nachos sizes are bigger than they appear. When deciding between two serving sizes, it helps to know that the smaller size would satisfy a party of 3-5. What truly stood
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out to me about our starters was the salad. I took one bite and I was sold. The white-wine basil dressing perfectly coated Wisconsin’s own Vitruvian Farm’s organic greens paired with the crunch of carrots and piquillo pepper. The sudden bursts of flavor of the romaine baby mozzarella, Castelvetrano olives and artichoke hearts actually made me question if I was in Rome. When it came time to the main event, we opted for the 14-inch round wood-fired pizzas. Lucille is also known for their steel pan pizzas. Out of all the options, the final decision came down to the classic Tomato Pie and a Build-Your-Own. The Tomato Pie was simple while still feeling luxurious with the baby arugula and roasted market tomatoes. The chili flakes hidden on top were so intense that a pause was needed before taking the next bite. For our second pizza, we chose to add roasted Wisconsin mushrooms and caramelized onions to the housemilled tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella to make for the ultimate pie. The melted cheese alone made me thankful to grow up in a place that appreciates such a delicacy. What really stood out to me, however, was the crust at the end. I found myself eating each slice faster knowing what I had coming in the end. That night we left Lucille with our stomachs full and our hearts set on making our way back for the next “treat yourself” day.
Strada Italian Street Food $6-8 per person
Amongst all of the meetings and exams, there are always those certain moments where you just want a good pizza. Not just your run-of-the-mill, by the slice kind of pizza, but an actual “fill you up so you can make it through my next class” kind. At the same time, a decent, on-the-go meal should not cost above eight dollars. So where do I go to find that middle ground? Look no further than Memorial Union’s own Strada Italian Street Food, which features Neapolitan style pizzas at a price you cannot argue with. I was recently guilty of having that good pizza craving. On my way from one side of Bascom to the other, I decided to take the plunge and try out Strada. As one of Memorial Union’s newest additions from its recent renovation, Strada welcomes customers with a crisp and modern look that add to the historic recipes. Equipped with Wi-Fi and spaces to study, I had high hopes for this pizza as the perfect excuse to make this place my new study spot. After ordering their signature Margherita, I had the opportunity to take a step back and witness the method to
their madness. The sauces, cheeses and toppings were all laid out for the world to see. A couple pizzas were lined up ahead of mine, buying me even more time to observe. First it was the dough, spread out and ready for the ingredients to follow. The classic red sauce was next, with their fresh mozzarella and Roma tomatoes strategically placed around the pie. With a quick sprinkle of basil and parmesan, my mid-day treat was ready to take on the hearthfired oven. To think all I had to do was swipe my Wiscard—always utilize the student discounts when possible—and wait five minutes in order to get that Italian feel right on campus confirmed my excellent decision to attend this university. I saw my pizza being taken out of the oven and knew it was my time to indulge. I found a nice, quiet table secluded from the hustle and bustle of the pizza-making, got my study materials out, opened my pizza box and quite possibly felt my mouth start to water. Not able to wait a second longer, I picked out the first piece I saw, took one bite, and was actually surprised by how a pizza so inexpensive and accessible could be so good. In some areas, one has to search all over just to find this kind of pizza at an even higher price. Strada’s pizza is not only affordable for students, but it is also quality. By observing the process, I could see what ingredients were being put into my order. Better yet, the serving sizes are so large that I could eat some now and save some for later. Which is exactly what I did, leading me to not have to worry about tomorrow’s dinner (or lunch, or even breakfast). With its satisfactory food and the best bang for a college student’s buck, Strada is your best bet to satisfy that pizza craving.
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Young &
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Hungry
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Young and Farming
story and pictures By Daniella Byck The balmy breeze moves through uncurling leaves basking in the powerful afternoon sun. Framed by the curving reeds of emerald green, 20 year old Garden Director Samson Srok is tending to a rectangle of rich, dark soil. Planted right outside of the growing metropolis and cultivated by the hands of those still learning, F.H. King Students for Sustainable Agriculture’s Eagle Heights Garden is growing roots outside of the soil. “I took a gap year and I lived in rural Ecuador, and I just had the experience of living with subsistent farmers,” Srok says. “And definitely in the little community that I was in, the ability to grow your own food was like a sense of liberation.” Upon returning to Wisconsin, Srok rediscovered that connection to the land as one of the Garden Directors for F.H. King. The organization’s focus on sustainable agriculture means using farming techniques with respect to an assemblage of the land, human quality of life and economic systems. F.H. King connects to the land physically—working with the crops in their gardens—and cognitively. Education programs include workshops on topics ranging from seed preservation to companion and interplanting. The organization is named after Franklin Hiram King, an early 20th century agricultural physics professor at UW-Madison. The UW-Madison Department of Soil Science refers to King as a “pioneer scientist” famous for his groundbreaking work in the field. The
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students in his namesake organization are also pioneers in their own right: according to the US Department of Agriculture’s 2012 Census of Agriculture, the average age of the U.S. farmer is 58.3 years old. The students farming in F.H. King are at least half that age and bringing a fresh voice to centuries of tradition. “The importance of the local farmer, especially to Wisconsin, is so important to our history and this land and just the future of what agriculture could look like,” Srok says. For those seeking to understand more about that future, one only has to hop on the route 80 bus and watch as familiar campus buildings fall away and utopia emerges. The Eagle Heights Community Garden is a sprawling set of plots farmed by the University of Wisconsin-Madison and local community members. F.H. King has one of the largest plots in the garden, second to the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. “There’s something really emotional that feels really awesome about that connection to the earth,” Srok smiles. “There’s this weird sense of childlike joy and wonderment when you see things growing. And it definitely changes how I think about food and what I’m putting in my body.” Thought is at the center of what F.H. King does. In the midst of student life, the Eagle Heights garden is as idyllic as a modern day Garden of Eden. But in this paradise, the tree of knowledge has been devoured. In-depth understanding of the land and it’s needs is a central step in the sustainable farming process. Recently, F.H. King has partnered with a soil science student. The student uses the fields for research and gives the farmers an idea of what their soil needs. “I like this space being a place where students can connect and experiment with these different aspects of sustainability and agriculture so that at the end of the day we all get something out of that and the farm becomes better,” Srok says. A better farm means better food. Because sustainable farming focuses on a diverse set of perspectives, conscious consumption also plays a key role in F.H. King’s activity. Once a week, the students bring their yield to East Campus Mall for Harvest Handouts, making sustainable produce more accessible to their peers. Srok emanates a sense of hopefulness for the future. Perhaps that hopefulness comes with confidence in the partnership between human and land: a mutual promise to nurture and to nourish. As a young farmer with a sustainable framework, Srok carries the seeds of the future. If the Eagle Heights garden is any indication, the harvest will be plentiful.
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Sustainable Vegetable Scrap Stock Srok recommends using your vegetable scraps to make homemade stock or broth. To your vegetable scraps, add herbs and water for the perfect winter warming bowl.
Peels
Ends
Skins
Wilted
Herbs
Carrot
Celery
Onion
Chard
Dill
Sweet Potato
Green Onion
Shallot
Spinach
Parsley
Potato
Leeks
Rosemary Thyme
*Kale, broccoli, cauliflower and brussels sprouts should be avoided or used in small amounts, too much of these vegetables will lend a bitter flavor to your broth. Fill a large pot with 5-6 cups of water. Add vegetables and herbs. Bring the pot to boil, reduce heat and cover. Allow to simmer for an hour, until fragrant. Salt and pepper to taste, or add other warming spices. Take off heat, strain and store.
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Young and CREATING
Story aNd photos By Elizabeth Geboy
Jacob Wolf On a mission to find some of Madison’s young chefs who were eager to make their mark on the city, I found three (of many!) chefs ready for the challenge. I sat down with Jacob Wolf, a 26-year-old UW Madison graduate, to talk about his restaurant career here in Madison. Wolf has a “centralized position” between the three branches of the Underground Food Collective. He had been the co and sous chef at Forequarter
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restaurant. Now, with a few other passionate bakers, he bakes all the breads and pastries for the Forequarter restaurant and Underground’s catering business. They also do much of the canning and fermenting of foods for Underground’s butchershop. Wolf graduated from UW-Madison with degrees in geology and environmental studies and had also been a part of Slow Food UW. Jonny Hunter, proprietor of Underground Food Collective, learned about Wolf’s talents through Slow Food’s Cafe and
a dinner with Vice President of Slow Food International Alice Waters. Hunter asked Wolf to do a working internship or a stage at Forequarter. “I did that [the stage] during finals week… [I told them] I can stay until four, but then I have an an exam review at 4:45 I have to get to!” Wolf declared. He got the job at the restaurant days after. Wolf commented on the bits flour and dough stuck to his arms, result of having made bread dough before the interview. I asked him if he had a go-to food when studying at
the university, before his cooking career took off. “I was really into risotto… no recipe necessary! [I’d make] risotto if I had time, or chili and chicken noodle soup to have around for the week,” Wolf said. Being a current student and a graduate, we agreed that eating is often ‘on the go’ and it can be difficult to spend a lot of time cooking. When I asked about how Madison has fostered his love for cooking and helped him develop as a chef, he immediately highlights the accessibility of the farmers markets and the farms. He loves the ease of driving “15 minutes out of the city, to be in the countryside and at a farm.” Wolf compares it to Chicago, where a multi-hour trip is necessary to escape the the concrete and houses. “[Madison is lucky to have] proximity to farmers and food, and having so many different markets in the summer, and they go year round,” Wolf said. At Forequarter, Wolf and the kitchen crew were willingly “seasonally restricted.” “We made it a mission to have vegetables only from Wisconsin, year round. We change menu as things come in and out of season,” Wolf said. “How long are we going to have broccoli? We can have it for two weeks constantly, then it can be a special as we get it here and there, then we have to replace it.” The seven tables at Forequarter allow them to be specific to the seasons and flexible with what is available at the market. He describes his experience at the food collective as more of a “do-it-yourself” path than a directed mentorship, and with this he’s been able to
start programs and pursue his passions for cooking. Wolf finds that even beyond the restaurant and cooking, the most important thing is being precise. “Attention to detail. Do that with anything you do. How things are organized and how things are put away. Details make a big difference,” he said. “It’s the difference be being mediocre at something, and good it, and then being better...That’s advice I’ve reached mutually in discussion with people.” Outside of work, his cooking is influenced with Southeast Asian flavors, but still using local vegetables. Summer grilling is a must, making grilled steak salads with market produce. He says a potato and leek frittata is also a go-to for dinner at home. “Curry, or fried rice, sometimes bún…” Wolf was thinking about dinner. “I think I’m going to make curry tonight.” He shared a few of his favorite cookbooks, and showed me the diverse collection of books lined up in Underground’s kitchen where he works. “On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee, Tartine Bread, and The Art of Fermentation [by Sandor Ellix Katz]. The last two are textbook-y, they’re pretty dense. It’s really learning the science based side of it,” Wolf said. He also mentioned a book titled The Food Lab by Kenji Lopez, which happens to also be one of my favorite cookbooks. It, too, is a more scientific approach to cooking. In the near future, Wolf and his friends Tim, Michael and Megan are teaming up with a woman who lives on a farm
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outside of Madison. She’s invited them to live, cook and manage the land on her farm and he seemed excited about the pursuing the idea. Wolf has been “wanting to grow the vegetables for so long ... waiting for an opportunity to be able to grow produce, where it makes sense. [I want to] Learn how to grow things, grow good things, vegetables. [I want it to] come full circle; cook seasonally, knowing how to grow food, knowing how to cook food, learning how to ferment it, process it, preserve it. And in time, keep baking bread!” After three years of experience as a line cook, making pastries and baking bread, he’s now learning the methods of growing vegetables, how to serve and be front of the house. He wants to “be well-rounded in understanding the dining experience,” and use this collected knowledge to eventually open his own restaurant. I asked if he wanted to stay in Madison, or move away to a different city to continue cooking. “I’ll be an hour outside of it! [Madison is] a place I will always come back.”
jon Pieters I interviewed 24-year-old Jon Pieters at Harvest, a farm to table restaurant where he is the current head chef. Before he graduated from Madison Area Technical College’s cooking program in December 2014, Pieters had started with the audio engineering program at UW-Madison. He quickly realized the engineering degree wasn’t what he wanted—he’d rather follow his passion for cooking. “Every job I had ever had was in the kitchen, so I decided to pursue it. It snowballed after that!” Pieters said. Having recently moved from working at Salvatore’s Pizza, I asked about the switch and his cooking passions. At Salvatore’s Pizza, Pieters learned how to “run a restaurant, to do the operations. It was really creative there, with opportunities to do small plates… it’s not your typical pizza joint.” He had worked in fine dining before, and wanted to return to the refined cuisine. Harvest offered him the ability to create whole dishes and menus. He thinks that the heavy workload and busy schedule at Harvest is a good position for him to be in. Pieters has been at Harvest for about four months
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and he sees himself as a chef there for the foreseeable future. “I think throughout your career you’re always trying to get to the next level, and I think I’m at that next level now. I just need to get comfortable, keep doing my thing” Pieters said. I asked about his decision to stay and cook in Madison after graduating from MATC. “There’s the market for it—there’s so many restaurants and an educated consumer here [in Madison],” Pieters acknowledges. “The number of restaurants also makes is difficult to gather staff, and find people who are willing to put in the hours and do the hard work. But it’s a foodie town for sure.” Running a restaurant takes a lot of time and effort, and for Pieters it’s nice to step away from all the action. So while he might not do a lot of cooking at home, he definitely still enjoys cooking outdoors, grilling or barbecue for big events. Every Saturday, Pieters and his sous chef go to the farmers’ market. Pieters also has a small network of farmers who he works with to have fresh produce delivered to Harvest. They double up with going to the
Wednesday farmers market. We agree that it’s good to get to know your farmers and you meet great people through market interactions. Pieters may not have a favorite chef, but he has a lot of Thomas Keller books. “[Keller] is the name off the top of my head. Bouchon and the French Laundry are great references that I use. The Alinea cookbook is pretty spectacular cookbook!” Pieters said. “You just have to [look for] components and good ideas, and try to incorporate them in the menu.” Alinea is a restaurant in Chicago, run by Grant Achatz, and is focused on molecular gastronomy cooking techniques. Thinking about the chefs who have restaurants and cookbooks under their name, I asked if he sees himself opening his own restaurant. “I would like to! I’m trying to figure out what is the end game, [but] it’d be nice to be your own boss,” Pieters laughed. He continued talking about the possibility of owning his own restaurant, and though he’s not 100 percent sure, he will continue to pursue what makes him happy. Pieters has been in Madison for seven years, and I asked if he plans on staying here or moving elsewhere. “Short term, yeah [I’ll stay], eventually I’d
like to move somewhere bigger. I feel like Madison is a good place to come back to” For Pieters, it will be important to have time away, to come back to Madison having learned from others and advanced his skills. He said he doesn’t yet have a favorite dish as Harvest, yet. I asked about menu changes, and in what direction he was taking Harvest. “From the last chef and his preferences and his experiences [the menu is] evolving... into my preferences. I like working with fish, and something we’re working on is getting some locally sourced fish, fish from Wisconsin,” Pieters said. In the spring, Harvest is looking to get whitefish from Lake Superior “We’re landlocked… as much as we want to preach locality, but we can’t really do it local. So you look at doing it sustainably. We go through ‘Sea to Table’, it’s what their repertoire is,” Pieters ruminates. He values that “the salmon is wild caught, halibut is wild caught… it’s nice to be able to work with somebody who shares that vision.” The key to Pieter’s success? “Maintain [your] standards. Putting out the best quality product, at all times.”
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Jamie Hoang Sujeo is a Pan-American restaurant with a late-night noodle bar, where I interviewed 27-year-old Jamie Hoang. The delicious smells of soup and their noodle dishes wafted around the room. She has been the chef as Sujeo since last May, but she has worked a number of restaurants around Madison, exploring cuisines and options. Hoang started her career at L’Etoile, the high end French restaurant on Madison’s capitol square. She then worked at Forequarter for a number of years, before becoming the sous chef for Estrellon when it opened in 2015. After eight months as the sous chef at Estrellon, Hoang moved to Sujeo. Her cooking skills allowed her to flexibly move between restaurants, especially with the interconnected nature of L’Etoile, Graze, Estrellon and Sujeo: they’re all owned by Madison chef Tory Miller. Hoang attended culinary school at MATC. Part of her schooling was taught by Joe Gaglio, who also owns Gotham Bagels. She is well connected in the Madison food scene, having studied under many chefs and working at fantastic restaurants. “I always liked making fresh pasta. I remember making ramp gnocchi, a huge batch of it,” Hoang said of her time at MATC. Her pasta-making knowledge paid off at L’Etoile, where they often made fresh pappardelle. When making pasta at home, she likes to keep sauces simple: butter, salt and pepper. Listening to the the list of restaurants she’s worked at, I asked about how this network has helped her become a better chef. “I definitely see myself staying [at Sujeo] for a little while, I love it here. All four restaurants, it’s like one big family. And I love working for Chef Tory, he was like my first mentor.” Hoang said. “He teaches us all so much… I don’t know if I’ll work for anyone else in Madison.” She described how “it’s a pretty small community in Madison, [and] it’s nice to get to know all the chefs. I’ve [had the opportunity] to work with a lot of the major chefs in town.” The people are wonderful, but the severe Wisconsin winter can be a challenge. Hoang and the chefs at Sujeo are good at adapting to the lack of summer produce in the cold months, learning to maximize and plan in advance. “Working with Tory has really shaped me to
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be thinking ahead of time. In the summer, we’ll freeze fruit for ice cream for the winter. I have blueberries from April, and we made blueberry ice cream last month,” she said. Sujeo has ever changing soft-serve style ice cream. Ice creams range from seasonal ingredients and others are funky flavors like ube (purple sweet potato) and Thai Iced tea (I highly recommend when you need a late night snack!). Hoang says she has some ube frozen right now, ready for the next time they decide to make the sweet purple ice cream. “That’s one of the things about staying here in Madison, you have to learn what you have to do, in order to cook really good food in the winter,” Hoang said, thinking towards the future months of cold weather. In regards to her home cooking, Hoang enjoys creating hotpots. “It’s one of my favorite things to make with my friends. It’s not necessarily cooking, but [it’s about] making a really good broth. I’ll cut up all the vegetables and add it all to the broth,” she shared with me. Development of a good broth is essential, and the basis of many great dishes. The stocks are Hoang’s favorite thing to make at work, too. “I really like making the pho broth, pho is one of my favorite foods,” she laughs. Hoang’s soup broth is made with charred ginger and onions, galangal (a flavorful rhizome,
like ginger) and many other spices like star anise, cardamom, cinnamon and whole peppercorns. The beef bones they use when making the stock give it body and depth of flavor. Hoang finds it rewarding to make a stock, knowing it requires a day or two to develop its true flavors. It’s a process that requires patience. Although there’s no singular cookbook Hoang goes to, her roommate has many cookbooks she can page through and gather ideas from. “I have a lot of books that I like to look through and read, but some are kind of extravagant!” Hoang said. “We reference the Koreatown cookbook a lot, its really awesome for [Sujeo].” The Sujeo team even did a dinner with the authors of the Koreatown book, Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard. She said Sujeo also has the Fat Rice cookbook, from a restaurant by the same name in Chicago. I asked Hoang if she wanted to keep working at restaurants, or start her own. “If I do something [else], it’ll probably be on my own. I want to be very chill. Little takes on Asian-American food, like take-out style chinese food,” Hoang said. She also had some advice to share. “Don’t always take yourself so seriously, have fun while you’re cooking. Sometimes you’re so busy and serious about everything. [Chefs] don’t necessarily do it for money or things like that, we do it because we love it.”
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Rapid Fire Questions Go-to breakfast?
If you were a vegetable:
Hoang: Pho—I love it! Pieters: Corn beef and hash, eggs over easy, with runny yolk. Wolf: Apple with a cube of cheese
Hoang: Baby bok choy! Pieters: Fennel Wolf: Wheat, not a vegetable.
Fridge staples: Hoang: Sparkling water! Pieters: Butter, cream, Dijon. Maybe Dijon more than everything…! Wolf: Potatoes, eggs, butter.
Food trend you can’t stand? Hoang: Avocado toast. I’m allergic to avocados, too. Pieters: It’s hard to say…. Improper use of words, when someone doesn’t understanding what terms mean. Like someone going on a gluten-free diet but not understanding why they’re not eating gluten... Wolf: Koji. Kitchen music choice? Hoang: Genre? Hip-hop Pieters: I have a broad taste in music, whatever the mood is in the kitchen Wolf: Podcast, if I’m by myself! Depends on who’s there.
Nutella or speculoos? Hoang: Speculoos Pieters: I’m a Nutella guy Wolf: Neither? What’s speculoos?
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Butter or olive oil?
Early bird or night owl?
Hoang: Butter Pieters: Depends on the application! Wolf: Butter
Hoang: Night owl Pieters: Night owl Wolf: Kinda both. (He laughs) Early bird.
Cake, creme brulee, or pie?
Chocolate with mint or raspberry?
Hoang: Creme brulee! Pieters: Pie! Wolf: Pie. Or cake. Pie first.
Hoang: Raspberry Pieters: Raspberry Wolf: Depends, where it’s from or who made it. Probably mint. Fresh mint.
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Pieters’ Romesco
Pieters shared with me his recipe for romesco, a red pepper and nut based sauce that originates in northeastern Spain. It’s great on roasted or grilled chicken, fish or vegetables.
500 grams roasted red pepper 100 grams toasted almonds 10 grams smoked paprika 30 grams honey 100 grams canola oil
PurĂŠe the peppers, almonds, paprika, honey and salt in food processor. When mixture is smooth, drizzle in canola oil until fully incorporated. To roast red peppers: Over open flame or under a broiler, char the skin on whole bell peppers. Place in a paper bag, fold to close, and wait until cool. Take the peppers out of the bag, and gently rub off the charred skin. Remove seeds and stem, and save flesh for use in romesco sauce. To toast almonds: Place the almonds in a dry pan over medium heat until they smell nuttier and roasted, about 10 minutes. Stir often.
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Chef Favorite’s Rosa’s Biscuits One of Jacob Wolf’s favorite recipes is for Rosa’s Biscuits, out of Brooks Headley’s book Fancy Desserts. They’re described as being light and airy, a savory-sweet buttery biscuit. In the book, Rosa says “serving them hot is all that matters.”
Yield: 12 biscuits 2 ½ cups (315 grams) all-purpose flour 2 ½ teaspoons (11 grams) baking powder 1 ½ teaspoons (6 grams) salt, plus more for sprinkling ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar 1 cup (2 sticks, 226 grams) unsalted butter, cold and cubed ¾ cup (183 grams) buttermilk Melted butter for brushing
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add the butter, and using a fork or your hands, work it into the flour until it resembles coarse meal. Some larger pieces of butter should remain. Pour in buttermilk, and mix just until the batter comes together, do not over mix. Divide the dough into twelve roughly 1 inch balls. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Brush with melted butter immediately and sprinkle with salt.
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Last CoursE story and photos By Daniella Byck
This is an ode to grocery store sushi. Trips to the grocery store with my mother always meant strolling by the sushi counter and reaching into the glowing shelves to pull out boxes of rice wrapped rolls. The ritual began with a simple cucumber roll and evolved into ever more colorful combinations as I matured. Carefully placing the boxes in the cart beside the eggs cart meant the promise of a reward after the work of grocery shopping for a hungry family of five. Once the bags had been unloaded from the trunk, we would settle into our vibrant tangerine kitchen and pop open the clear lids. Grocery store sushi is the tangy scent of pickled ginger, the rolling hills of green wasabi and the petite packets of soy sauce all cuddled behind a wall of faux plastic grass. Grocery store sushi is the perfect pick me up in the middle of a mundane day of errands, the moment when mother and daughter break chopsticks and unwind. And so even today, far from home, a trip to the grocery store always begins with that special visit to the sushi counter.
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