THE DISH ICONIC MADISON
1|THE DISH
THE DISH
ICONIC MADISON 9
17 8
21
21 26 26
31
the dish guide to beer 5 the crown jewel of brewing 6 is there a challenger to spotted cow? 7 flourless chocolate stout cookies 8 late night menus in madison of retro culture
19
9
thank god it’s fish fry friday
13
a taste of iconic madison: chef tory miller
slow and steady
21
17
my iconic madison
wisconsin supper clubs: timE capsules
25
food fight
26
last course
31
ICONIC MADISON | 2
Editor-in-Chief Daniella Byck Community Editor Karim Nassef Features Editor Sam Karny Art Director Zoey Rugel Media & Marketing Director Carli Gordon Writers Lauren Anders, Claire Burden, Daniella Byck, Julia Gilban-Cohen, Sam Karny, Abbey Meyer, Alexa Miller, Chikako Seike, Libby Schnepf, Genevieve Vahl Photographers Claire Burden, Daniella Byck, Ally Dweck, Carli Gordon, Codie Heinemann, Devin Kelly Illustrator Lily Oberstein Layout Codie Heinemann, Zoey Rugel Social Media Carli Gordon, Ava Pretzer, Izzy Schack Cover Photo Daniella Byck WUD Publications Committee Director Malik Anderson WUD Publications Committee Advisor Jim Rogers Wisconsin Union President Iffat Bhuiyan
3|THE DISH
Letter From the editor Dear Readers, Unsurprisingly, the milestones of my time in Madison are marked by food. But no dish soars across my college experience quite like a heaping bowl of pho. Winding fluffy scarves around our necks, Sundays once meant collecting a group of friends and slurping warm noodles on State Street. The weekly tradition was a moment for joint celebration and commiseration as we shuffled tubs of salty hoisin and fiery Sriracha across the table. Even on the final home football game of our college careers, we toasted the end of game days with tangy limes squeezed into steaming bowls of broth. Throughout four years, that Sunday pho group has transformed into my support system and my soulmates. I no longer watch the passersby through the wide paned windows. Instead, I find myself watching as my friends grow into the kind of strong, authentic women who inspire deep admiration within me. Pho remains an iconic fixture of my Madison experience because that Sunday ritual bonded us together and that togetherness has transformed me. The Spring 2018 edition of The Dish is a fitting tribute to the city where I fell in love with the stories told through the kitchen and at the table. It focuses on the people, food and feelings that mold the iconography of Madison’s dining scene. As a city with a uniquely intertwined culinary culture, those stories are often rich, multidimensional representations of food as a bold unifier for local producers, chefs, restaurants and the community at large. As your eyes feast on this edition, I hope you take a moment to reflect on the iconic meals that encompass your culinary memory. After all, food does more than satiate our hunger: it nourishes our souls.
Daniella Byck
ICONIC MADISON | 4
THE DISH
Guide to Beer
5|THE DISH
A Guide to Hops
The Crown JewEl of Brewing by abbey meyer | photos by daniella byck
D
espite being seen on beer commercials, the fine print of a beer list in restaurants and bar and brewery pamphlets around the country, the term “hops” is only a vaguely familiar concept to most novice beer drinkers. “Hops” are taken from a hop plant, which is a vine-like plant whose flower is added to the other ingredients of beer— malted barley, yeast and water— to enhance the flavor and depth of your favorite brew. The resin in hops tend to naturally increase the alcohol content which helps protect the beer from becoming rancid. In fact, India Pale Ale was developed to solve the problem of skunky beer being shipped to British soldiers serving in India. English brewers added more hops to the beer prior to shipping
to keep it fresh, which also increased the alcohol content. Dubbed the India Pale Ale, it remained very popular for returning soldiers. Hops also balances out the malts, another key ingredient in making beer, and acts as a natural filter. Today, there are hundreds of different hops available. Hops help the brewmaster give their brew a unique flavor profile, most of which were developed in the last thirty years. Each type of hops fits into one of three categories: aroma hops, bitter hops and dual-purpose hops. Aroma hops have a lower alpha acid percentage and an oil profile associated with good aroma. These hops are generally used as finishing or conditioning hops. Bitter hops have a higher alpha acid percentage.
Chinook, Cascade and Centennial hops, otherwise known as The “Cs,” are Aroma hops which help to create wonderful aromatic beers and are used in many of the American IPAs. Other types of hops include Hallertauer, a very mild, pleasant hop used in lighter beers like Lagers and Pilsners and Perle, which is grown in the U.S. and Germany to make porters and stouts. Hops are a wonderful addition to the brewing process. Without hops, the beer industry would not be as successful as it is today. Take a sip of your Spotted Cow and admire the views of Memorial Terrace, but remember the Vienna hops that were incorporated to give your brew the advertised “fun and fruity” flavor you love! e
ICONIC MADISON | 6
Is there a challenger to spotted cow? by julia Gilban-Cohen photo by daniella byck
“Beer culture dips into everything Wisconsinites do”
“B
eer culture dips into everything Wisconsinites do,” said Zach Connors, a Catering Representative for the Madison on Tap Craft Beer Festival. “It’s exciting because people get so many options,” Connors said, “they’re just excited to try new things and find a couple [of beers] that they didn’t know about and like.” The festival occured in March at the Alliant Energy Center and offered over 150 samples of craft beers from more than 70 breweries—the myriad of options presented a challenge for what Wisconsin’s iconic beer may be. According to Conners, “Spotted Cow is the main beer people think of when
7|THE DISH
they think about Wisconsin, but Capitol Amber is actually one of our bestsellers.” The description of The Wisconsin Amber presented on capitalbrewery.com stated that the beer is a rich amber lager, with “the perfect balance of roasted caramel malts and clean hops flavors.” Connors said that whenever Madison on Tap provided specialty or premium beers, the company almost always picks The Wisconsin Amber. “Spotted Cow just has such a reputation,” Connors claimed. “People think of it as being better because it’s iconic, and it’s good, it is, but there are other great, iconic Wisconsin beers, too.” e
Flourless Chocolate Stout Cookies Photos by Codie Heinemann
Ingredients
Time: 35 min Yield: 16-18 cookies
2 large eggs 1 teaspoon salt 3 ž cups powdered sugar 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 tablespoons stout beer 1 cup chocolate chips
Directions 1. Separate the egg yolks from the whites. 2. Add the salt to the whites and beat the whites until light and frothy. 3. Add ½ cup powdered sugar to the whites, beat until firm. 4. Add the remaining powdered sugar and cocoa powder, stir until combined. 5. Stir in the beer and egg yolks until well combined. Stir in the chocolate chips. 6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 7. Freeze for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375. 8. Bake for 14 minutes. 9. Pull the parchment onto the counter to allow the cookies to cool. For more beer infused recipes vist thebeeroness.com
ICONIC MADISON | 8
Late Night Menus In Madison A new take on the midnight snack, Madison’s late night menus are sure to make your stomach growl
9|THE DISH
By Lauren Anders
Photos by Devin kelly
O
ne might think that the only restaurants that are open on a late Friday or Saturday night would be the stereotypical pizza places. For college kids, this means sitting on the floors of our tiled dorms or slightly uncomfortable futons, grabbing a piece of pizza while mastering the art of texting and eating. Although pizza is always there to “hit the spot” for our late night cravings, are we only eating it because it’s available? What if there was a way to have quality food and a fun atmosphere for a great price; at any time in Madison? Your prayers have been answered. Recently many restaurants have started featuring late night menus; just because the dinner menu is no longer available doesn’t necessarily mean the kitchen is closed. I decided to try late night eats out for myself and went to Tornado Steakhouse, which sits just south of the Capitol building. Walking in, the wood paneling, ceiling beams and painted words of wisdom were all carried throughout the dining room and bar. Along with an old-timey interior, the restaurant serves a traditional steakhouse menu. I was amazed to notice the array of diners and not one phone out during a meal. The only “emojis” visible were the legitimate facial expressions on people’s faces, simply enjoying each other’s company. This might sound old-school but as someone who values face-to-face conversation, I knew this was going to be an experience. The late night menu is open from 10pm to 1am
and it does not disappoint. I sat down with General Manager, Dale Bartnick of Tornado Steakhouse to understand the creativity behind the late night menu. “Lots of our guests asked for us to stay open later. Our thinking behind our late night menu was to continue, keeping things light but making you full,” Bartnick said. Dishes like the Steak Sandwich, Sirloin Steak and Coquille St. Jacques are their biggest hits. “We have something for everyone. Whether a UW student or a Madison local, there is something for everyone at a cheaper price and much better than the cold pizza many people tend to settle with.” Of course, I had to see for what all the rave was about. I decided to try the Steak Sandwich—a beef tenderloin served au jus with sauteéd onion & horseradish cream. The steak was tender and juicy, the onions were sweet to balance out the little kick of horseradish, and the fresh bun made each bite better than the last. Also, for a substantial portion, it was $9.00—I was tempted to order two more for the ride home. What set the bar even higher on this meal was the service and the atmosphere, nothing but friendly and attentive. Service makes a restaurant go from great to exceptional. Although the food might be spectacular, the service is what makes your experience memorable. “You aren’t going to be stuffing your face from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. with this much class anywhere else,” said a customer.
ICONIC MADISON | 10
If you’re looking for some other late night menus across Madison, here are a couple for you to write down for your culinary bucket list: 1. Forequarter: A trendy restaurant featuring seasonal menus. Late night menus are Friday and Saturday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and has Cheeseburgers, to Tacos, and even Vegetable Crudité.
2. Tavernakaya: This late night menu is available on Fridays and Saturdays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m.. Some featured items are Pork Buns, Spicy Tuna Pizza, and Tempura Cheese Curds. Their “tapas” style (little plates to share) gives off their upscale but casual Asian restaurant vibe.
3. Tempest Oyster Bar: If you’re craving seafood, you’ll be sure to check out this sleek, stylish restaurant with live music on weekends.The late night menu has some of the old school classics: Shrimp or Oyster Po’boy, Oysters Rockefeller, and finger foods such as Shrimp Cocktail or just some classic fries. e
11 | T H E D I S H
ICONIC MADISON | 12
THANK FISH FRY BY DANIELLA BYCK | PHOTOS BY DANIELLA BYCK M
ike Seidel originally considered himself a “prime rib connoisseur.”
Growing up in Viroqua, Wisconsin, Seidel’s family adhered to the Wisconsin ritual of fish fry on Friday and prime rib on Saturday. For Seidel, the thick indulgence of a prime rib was preferable to transporting their fish home in squeaky styrofoam containers. After the 2-mile pilgrimage home, Seidel would pop open the container lid and bask in the rising steam. However, his fingers would meet a crumbling beer batter made damp by the warm air captured in the styrofoam. To avoid this ill fate, a young Seidel quickly learned to order a more mobile fish such as poor man’s lobster, a baked alternative without the mercurial batter. “It’s not the same as sitting at a restaurant, getting a fresh, steaming plate of fish. Chowing it down and burning the roof of your mouth and slugging your beer down to quell it,” said Seidel.
13 | T H E D I S H
GOD IT S FRIDAY Despite auspicious beginnings, the Friday fish fry would remain a steadfast weekly tradition. After graduating from UWMadison in 2003, Seidel and a hometown friend, Gabe Krambs, continued observing Friday fish fry at Fitzgerald’s supper club in Middleton. Hoping to expand their learning of the fish fry gospel, the pair decided it was time to discover new spots. However, they were dismayed to find limited information available about local fish fries. Emboldened by a mutual love of lists, Seidel and his partner began journeying to new fish fries and recording their thoughts in an Excel sheet. Eventually, the excel sheet turned into the website Madison Fish Fry, a database of Wisconsin fish fries with more than 1,200 of Seidel’s reviews. If you are looking to find Seidel on a Friday, he is most likely tearing apart flaky, golden fish with his fingers for both lunch and dinner. Many local establishments have expanded their Friday night special to lunch due to its iconography. For Wisconsinites, Friday fish fry is an opportunity to shake hands with your neighbors and toast to the close of another week of hardwork
FRIDAY FSH FRY IS SIMULTANEOUSLY SOUL REPLENISHING AND THE SOUL OF COMMUNITIES
THEMSELVES and camaraderie. Friday fish fry is simultaneously soul-replenishing and the soul of communities themselves. “It’s barbers, it’s mechanics. They talk about their jobs, they talk about what’s going on locally, they talk about the kid that’s going to states in wrestling,” Seidel
ICONIC MADISON | 14
said. “I think for the local people it’s that camaraderie, it’s that sharing, it’s a shared experience.” The tradition of serving fish on a Friday stems from German and Polish immigrants who avoided red meat on Fridays during Lent by eating fish. During the Prohibition era, the pungent aroma of an all-youcan-eat fish fries served as a cover for establishments serving alcohol. In the 21st century, Friday fish fries remain a beloved staple of a uniquely statewide tradition, spanning across the lifetimes of Wisconsin’s citizenry. “That’s the thing about fish fries. People for the most part grew up eating them and you know, it resonates deeply with them,” Seidel said. “And maybe you don’t remember the exact fish you ate but you remember how your dad smelled when you went to the fish fry, you know? You remember the hat he used to wear to the fish fry.”
Fish fry is not just limited to Fridays. On a brisk night, Seidel is hunkered over the Wednesday special at Jordan’s Big 10 Pub on Regent Street: crisp canoes of breaded perch lay gently over shoestring fries with acidic coleslaw and potent tartar sauce. Seidel immediately points out the slice of rye bread, a nod to classic Milwaukee fish fry tradition. He snaps a photograph for the website’s Instagram with little fanfare, insisting on presenting the dish exactly as it was placed. Setting down the phone, he lifts a filet of lake fish. Judgement day has arrived. “Me and my coworkers would go to Wilson’s every Friday for lunch, pretty much. So I’ve eaten their fish fry a hundred and thirty times? Something like that,” Seidel said. “So they serve as my baseline. Everything is weighted against Wilson’s. So there’s a set number on all those categories and I base everything else off those experiences.” Seidel’s reviews are processed with the mind of
15 | T H E D I S H
an academic and always begin by scoring the fish, potato, tartar and bread on a scale of poor to excellent. Excellent fish is flaky in texture and powerful in seasoning, especially with a beer batter. Fish fry folklore tells of many strategies for achieving the most flavorful batter: cracking the beer overnight and leaving it out to get stale, soaking the cod in beer or dredging the filet in evaporated milk before battering. Some restaurants hold their fish fry to such high standards that the recipes and strategies are relegated to sacred circles. Though the fish may be at the center of the tradition, it is the atmosphere that ultimately separates a fish fry from a mere fish and chips experience. Seidel began the Friday ritual with his family and now brings his four-year-old son to for “fish and french fries with dad” after school. “I think the fish fry is kind of one of those things where it’s a family thing, it’s a community thing. We all come together to do it. And in it’s way it defines us too,” Seidel said. “I think if people stop serving fish on Friday, people would be lost,” Seidel said.
“ I THINK IF PEOPLE STOP SERVING FISH ON FRIDAY, PEOPLE WOULD BE LOST ”
A
fter reviewing over 1,200 fish fries, Mike Seidel has developed a system through which to evaluate each component. “The perfect bite for me? You’ve got spicy breading. A nice, flaky fish with no grease. Just a thick tartar sauce that’s on there, kind of a stanky punch to it,” Seidel said. “You’ve got to get all three or four of those things melded together. It’s just a flavor explosion.”
THE FISH “Fish is far and away the most important thing.” As the core of the experience, it is no surprise Seidel’s first priority begins with the fish. Seidel believes a true fish fry should include a variety of fish, breadings and cooking methods. Additionally, the fish itself should be light on the grease and heavy on the flavor. Whether it be a salty punch or a smoky finish, the batter should complement the fish without completely masking its flavor. Bonus points if there is a drawn butter candle to dunk crisp fish into sweet butter.
THE SIDES “For me it’s not a real fish fry unless you get a slice of bread.” A range of side dish options also scores points with Seidel. Be it a french fry or a pancake, the comforting familiarness of a potato based dish is always welcome. Additionally, coleslaw is often found on the plate. Finally, Seidel appreciates a chunk of rye bread, slathered with butter and topped with a sliced onion. In Madison, the rye bread is often replaced by a dinner roll.
THE TARTAR “I want to be able to dunk the fish and try to shake it and I don’t want it to go anywhere.” The tartar sauce is the pièce de résistance, relying on a specific, thick texture to elevate the fish fry experience. Seidel prefers a tartar sauce that clings to the fish. Ultimately, the tartar sauce should serve to complement and enhance the other flavors on the plate. e
ICONIC MADISON | 16
Slow and Steady Slow Food’s quest for ‘good clean fair food’ for all Madisonians. By Libby Schnepf | Photos by ashley hampton s students hustle to get out of the cold and into their uninviting lecture hall chairs on Wednesday afternoons, Slow Food student volunteers in the basement of The Crossing (a church on the UW campus) are taking it slow.
A
“The slogan, ‘good, clean, fair food for all’, characterizes a lot of what is cool about Madison’s food scene,” Zinnen explained. “In its capacity to focus on local food and sustainable production and the interest and respect for other cultures.”
Tucked away in their homely cove, this underground student-run organization advocates for “good, clean, fair food for all” through service outreach projects, hosting cooking workshops with local chefs and most notably, serving community meals.
The city of Madison, in addition to Slow Food, has a unique ability to be simultaneously aware of food justice issues at large, in addition to supporting a lively foodie haven and bridging the gap between the two by providing for the less fortunate and privileged alike. Zinnen tells me, they take the “for all” part of their slogan seriously. Despite the abundance of quaint shops and trendy restaurants in Madison, obtaining food is not as easy as walking to Gordons Market for some Madisonians. This may be due to many factors such as economic insecurity, long distances to grocery providers or simply only having access to unhealthy hyper-processed foods; most of which are the product of systemic discrimination and/or racism.
This $5-8 sit-down meal is no bland grab-and-go sandwich, rather a carefully curated selection of salads, soups, sandwiches and desserts crafted with local ingredients from a featured farmer, guaranteed to satisfy your mid-afternoon slump. The most recent Wednesday ‘cafe’ meal featured a grown-up three cheese grilled cheese topped with caramelized onions and sliced apples, borscht soup dotted with house sour cream, a spicy mixed green salad drizzled with a maple and mustard vinaigrette, finishing with an orange, bourbon maple challah bread pudding. For first-time Slow Foodie diners, descending the stairs to reach the dining area, the electric buzz of anticipation, fresh aromas and a hushed rumble of voices indicate the dynamism of the Slow Food community. The hot plates bustling out of the basement kitchen not only excite growling stomachs, but also engage the mind. Many students know and love Slow Food for it’s delicious and inspiring community meals, but few recognize it for its service in the Madison community. I sat down to talk with co-directors of Slow Food’s South Madison Project, Amina Maamouri and Marah Zinnen, to learn about Slow Food’s reaching impact.
17 | T H E D I S H
Slow Food identifies cuisine as a vehicle for social change and a way to build a stronger community by increasing food security in Madison. Slow Food is practicing what it preaches through its meaningful community partnerships in South Madison by teaching children various culinary skills and gardening to foster autonomy and pride in their food procurement and introducing kids to new and different foods they may not have been exposed to. “Food activism is a social justice issue,” Zinnen says. “With determinants in a lot of different areas.” Due to systemic policies such as welfare, zoning policies and environmental issues, Slow Food views access to food as an economic, political, racial and discriminatory issue and ultimately a human right.
Maamouri and Zinnen’s Quick Tips on Becoming a Madisonian Food Justice Warrior: 1. Pop on into one of Slow Food’s community meals on Wednesday afternoons or Monday evenings to experience the passion and excitement of feasting on local and delicious food first hand.
2. If you feel so inspired, come volunteer in the Slow Food kitchen, come chop some veggies and feel the power of nourishing others with great food.
3. Madison is lucky to have year round access to local produce through the Dane County Farmers’ Market which continues through the grueling Wisconsin winter in the warmth of the Senior Center on 330 W. Mifflin Street every Saturday morning. Eat seasonably, eat locally and support restaurants that do the same. e
ICONIC MADISON | 18
Wisconsin Supper Clubs: Time Capsules of Retro Culture By Genevieve Vahl
F
rom the quintessential relish trays to delicacies like ice cream cocktails, Wisconsin supper clubs uphold tradition. Emerging in the Prohibition era of the 1930s, any supper club will transport you right back into those original speakeasies. Essential qualities include their retro decor to signature menu items that distinguish supper clubs from an average restaurant. Relish trays are the first priority. Decorated with hot peppers, radishes, celery, carrots and green onions, the tray starts the meal off right. All-you-can-eat soup and salad bars run the risk of ruining your appetite before the meal even starts. Large cuts of meat like prime rib and thick cut steaks are washed down with muddled brandy Old Fashioneds and brandy Alexanders for the entree portion. For supper club regular Susan Becker, the ice cream drinks for dessert are a necessary sweet treat to finish off the night. “Every place has their own idea of what they consider the best ice cream drink. It depends on each individual,” Becker said. “For me, I love a super thick, almost soft serve ice cream drink. I want it to stand up and peak.” These ice cream drinks, either minty or almond liqueur flavored, sometimes even have a drizzle of
19 | T H E D I S H
chocolate syrup to coat the inside of the glass. Some places serve theirs more like a milkshake, others are thick. Personal preference determines the best. The signature aesthetic of supper clubs compliments the featured food items. Becker describes how supper clubs usually have an atmosphere straight out of the 50s, a blast from the past. The little old ladies playing the piano in the dining room sets an ambient mood. The walls are covered with wood paneling or deep colored wallpaper, creating a dark atmosphere throughout the restaurant. “Cloth table clothes with candles on each table, large wrap around bar with upholstered bar stools, and the supper clubs to the far north typically display taxidermy animals on their walls,” Becker explained. An extensive alcohol selection and the occasional view overlooking Lake Michigan sets a classic backdrop. Retrolights and crystal chandeliers dimly light the restaurant. Sometimes string lights add a twinkle to the room. Eating at a supper club is a prolonged dining experience, lasting well over two hours to get through all of the courses. With all these common characteristics, three specific restaurants around Wisconsin have perfected their take on the true supper club experience.
The Hobnob in Kenosha sits on the shores of Lake Michigan where you can catch the sunset while sipping a cocktail at the bar. The retro neon sign outside attracts those looking for a classic supper club experience. Once inside, the large fake leather booths, dark persian rugs complimenting the burgundy wallpaper and relics from world travels decorate the various dining rooms. Crystal chandeliers radiate dim lighting for comfort while delving into their signature roasted duckling served a la orange. To finish the night off sweet, the Hobnob is known for their extra-thick grasshoppers, a traditional supper club ice cream cocktail. “Personally I think it’s the best because it’s super thick, and they even hand muddle it; meaning they scoop the ice cream and muddle it, rather than using a blender, and put it in the glass with the liquer,” said Becker. Their ice cream drinks include 10 scoops of ice cream making for a peak towering over the shallow glasses. Becker claims they are so big they can easily satisfy two people. Jackson Grill, on Milwaukee’s industrial south side, brings us to another quintessential supper club in a very unsuspecting neighborhood. The supper club, once a family home located in a residential area, feels like you are dining at your neighbors house. However, the art-deco bar sets this restaurant apart from any normal neighbor’s in-home bar.
The Five O’clock Club has been around for over 70 years, and is known for serving some of the best steaks in Milwaukee. “The steaks are phenomenal. They do something special with the steaks and they are just so good,” said Becker. “It is a little pricey, but everything comes with your meal. You get the bread, the relish tray and your salad.” About 10 years ago, Becker explained they used to have servers come around the dining room with a cart carrying the table’s relish tray, salad and bread. Unfortunately that tradition was put to rest. Yet, cozy ambience thrives from low ceilings decorated with string lights amongst garland above the bar. Waitresses from the supper club heydey really enhance the authentic experience.
“It’s one of those places you should experience once in your lifetime”
“I love the atmosphere. I love the bar, it’s very 50s.” Becker said. “They have the back bar that lights up. It’s very intimate, they do not have a lot of tables. And the food is good with reasonable prices.” The small restaurant is run by owners with extensive culinary backgrounds, offering their gourmet renditions of supper club classics. One of the featured dishes includes charred steak topped with portobello mushrooms and whole garlic cloves. Seared scallops over saffron risotto is another option to fire up taste buds. “The chef comes out and talks to you at the end of the night when he is all caught up,” Becker recalled, enhancing the unique intimacy.
“I liked it because it’s so 50s. It’s super dark in the dining room. There’s literally no windows,” Becker said. “There’s like red velvet wallpaper. Things haven’t changed in probably 50 years. It’s gaudy, and I love it.”
Their iconic Alley Cat Lounge, a luxury piano bar and lounge, brings in live music every Friday for some entertainment over dinner. The historical background of this supper club livens the supper club aesthetic. “It’s one of those places you should experience once in your lifetime,” said Becker. With over 350 supper clubs in Wisconsin alone, you will not have a problem finding one of these time capsules wherever you may be. Yet, finding those with the best steaks and ice cream drinks will entail some further investigation. People like Susan Becker will continue to rave about the supper club experience even now, after the supper club era has become a time of the past. The rich food can be matched with a full experience rich in American cultural history and authentic decor. e
ICONIC MADISON | 20
A TASTE OF ICONIC MADISON: CHEF TORY MILLER by Alexa Miller | Photos by Ally dweck & Devin kelly
21 | T H E D I S H
C
hef Tory Miller creates award-winning dishes in his Madison restaurants, but still loves making fried chicken and homemade pasta for his family. Miller’s eagerness to cook began when he worked at his grandparents’ diner in Racine, Wisconsin. Pursuing his passion, Miller took the leap and moved to one of the largest food hubs in America, New York City. Miller laughed at some of his first days in the city and emphasized that it wasn’t easy. “I didn’t know anyone there at the time. I didn’t have a place to live. I flew out there with some bags and it was daunting in the beginning,” Miller said.
After attending the French Culinary Institute in New York, he decided it was time to return to the dairy state. Now, as a distinguished chef, Miller owns L’Etoile, Graze, Sujeo and Estrellón, each of which offers guests a special perspective on the Madison food scene. “Four different parts of my brain are getting activated with my restaurants, but everyone knows my favorite is Sujeo. I love Asian food and casual vibes,” Miller said. Miller grins as he describes his style as a chef: cooking what he wants to eat. While Miller’s success could have brought him to other parts of the country, there is no place like home. “The farmers and the taste of place, the terroir,
ICONIC MADISON | 22
are very prevalent in Madison. It’s really hard to connect with that and leave because, as a chef, it’s really where you want to be,” Miller said. The iconic chef is relaxed as he talks about his experiences. However, he is serious as he talks about programs like Cooking Healthy Options in Wisconsin Schools (CHOW). “I felt the need to connect with Madison and help the way we feed our kids in schools,” Miller said. While Madison is not typically thought of as a leader in trendy eats and fine dining, Miller’s unique style and commitment to customer experience prove otherwise. The chef with colorfully tattooed arms caught the attention of the Food Network’s “Iron Chef.” “When they first asked, I wasn’t ready to do it or wasn’t sure if it was something I really wanted to do.
23 | T H E D I S H
But, probably about ten years later, I decided I was down,” Miller said. His team competed against Bobby Flay in “Battle of the Bison.” As the first Madison citizen to compete on the show, Miller understood he was not only representing his restaurants in the competition, but also his Wisconsinite and Korean roots. “Our Bison menu was full on Asian food, and for me, I am Korean adoptee who didn’t know my parents. To be able to make Asian food the way I like to make it and have it be the winning menu and be really well-received from the judges was nerve-wracking but so rad,” Miller said. So, what’s next for Chef Miller? “I keep competing in my own four walls and try to get better and challenge myself to do the next big thing. So, who knows what’s next.” e
ICONIC MADISON | 24
my By Chikako Seike
iconic
madison
Illustration by lily oberstein
My words to express “iconic Madison” are colorful individualism. Those colors are blending in Madison as if they are painting this city. A local store behind the capitol, Candinas Chocolatier, is making connections between people and creating sweetness. When I opened the square box, there were sixteen chocolates inside. They were aligned elegantly and each piece’s top was decorated differently: round shapes with dots, lined horizontally and vertically, mixed nuts and caramel. When I take a bite, a taste I could not have imagined spreads in harmony and then starts melting gently. Each piece has different flavors and textures, as if they are alive themselves. Each piece lets me take a journey to where I have
25 | T H E D I S H
not been, such as raspberries field or a wine foudre somewhere in Europe. While I was tasting the chocolates, colorful imaginations spread into my head. I felt nostalgic for the emotion of warmness, similar to what I felt in old days. Madison’s people gave me that warmness when I first came to Madison from my country, Japan. My every moment in Madison has been supported by their tenderness, sweetness and softness. Chocolates represent their individuality: each one has a different level of depth. When we interact with each other, it is as if Madison were a box of Candinas Chocolatier chocolates. e
Food Fight A look into Madison’s premiere restaurant group, how they function and why they’re still thriving over 20 years later. by sam karny
ICONIC MADISON | 26
“W
e are the definition of local,” says the opening line of Food Fight’s webpage—a hub of all things delicious in Madison. Food Fight, a restaurant group based in Madison, markets themselves as the essence of the Madison local food scene. Founded by Monty’s Blue Plate Diner owner, Monty Schiro, and investor Peder Moren, Food Fight has been a staple of Madison’s restaurant industry since its establishment in 1994. The company aims to enrich the Madison community with diverse tastes and high-quality service, and has been succeeding for decades. Since Food Fight’s humble beginnings 24 years ago, the company has undergone a metamorphosis. Today, the Food Fight name is synonymous to Madison’s burgeoning food scene. No two restaurants are alike. With restaurants specializing in American diner classics to nouveau Tex-Mex and trendy Hawaiian poké bowls, Food Fight has achieved what no other Madison food group has accomplished: a restaurant for everyone. From Johnny Delmonico’s premier steaks and top-shelf whiskey for dinner with the parents, to Cento’s warm interior and classic Italian fare on date night, to DLUX’s yuppie boozy brunch, Food Fight has a location for every occasion. Despite multiple traditional Wisconsin outlets, Italian bistros and eateries paying homage to Mexican cuisine, each restaurant maintains its own charm. This
27 | T H E D I S H
can be seen in not only the dishes, but also in the ambiance. The secret to Food Fight’s success may lie in their continual investment in variety. Food Fight has successfully allowed its brand to adapt from one restaurant to the next, enabling each chef to not only establish a distinctive range of flavors, but also create a one-of-a-kind atmosphere for guests. Monty’s Blue Plate Diner manager, Noelle Luce, asserts that each restaurant preserves its own management with limited corporate interference, but still reaps the benefits of Food Fight’s expertise. “We really are given a lot of empowerment to run our own ships, put forth our own ideas, and we’re really included in everything,” Luce says. She explains that Food Fight’s purpose is to ask, “What is your vision?” and “How can we help you polish that?” as they guide restaurants to their full potential. Food Fight’s achievements go well beyond the kitchen, as each restaurant is enhanced by a group of ever-friendly, respectful employees. The Food Fight website highlights their staff as their “most valuable asset,” as the company strives to manage restaurants in which employees desire to learn and grow. “It’s nice to know that if I do my job well, this is a place where I can stay,” said Maya Steinberger, a Cento hostess.
Founder Monty Schiro’s own professional beginnings, as a dishwasher at 13, waiter at 16, manager at 21, and finally, restaurant owner at just 24, are likely the inspiration behind Food Fight’s cultivation of each employee. As the self-proclaimed definition of Madison locality, Food Fight champions giving back to the community as it enhances our palates. Food Fight has served the Madison area by building up Downtown’s culinary scene, providing guidance to restaurant industry hopefuls, establishing traditions like Food Fight Foodie Week and making charitable contributions. From its unpretentious conception with the establishment of Monty’s Blue Plate Diner, to the restaurant giant it has become, Food Fight continues to put Madison, and its eclectic, everchanging food scene, first. e
ICONIC MADISON | 28
29 | T H E D I S H
PHOTOS BY ALLY DWECK
CARLI
GORDON
DEVIN KELLY
ICONIC MADISON | 30
last course Once you’ve said cheese curds, you’ve said it all! by Claire Burden | Photos by Claire burden & Devin Kelly
M
y first experience with Madison was coming for an out-of-town for a wedding. As an 8-year-old from New Jersey, I had no clue what a cheese curd was, let alone a fried one. At the rehearsal dinner, the maid of honor raved about this restaurant called The Old Fashioned and how we would have to go there for lunch the next day. I still vividly remember my first bite of a cheese curd with the warm and
melty cheese oozing from inside the breaded skin. I left Madison in complete awe. 10 years later, I committed to UW–Madison. Any time I would wear my collegiate brand “Wisconsin” shirt in public, strangers would come up to me remarking on how I would love Madison and everything the little city has to offer. While every person had different advice on
spots to hit and things to do over my 4 years in Wisconsin, they all had the same recommendation of beer, brats and specifically cheese curds. I have spent time in the city on a virtual cheese curd-hop. I went to all of the recommended spots for the best cheese curds in Madison (and definitely found my favorite). The Old Fashioned, Great Dane and HopCat are staple restaurants in the Madison area, all centered around a theme of good, hearty, American gastropub food. All three restaurants serve fried cheese curds on their menus, which have all received the praise of the community. Coming from out-of-state, I knew, even before moving here, that cheese curds were essential to the food scene here in Madison. After moving here and spending time tasting different restaurants’ cheese curds and breading recipes, that fact has been made more apparent than ever. e
31 | T H E D I S H
ICONIC MADISON | 32
33 | T H E D I S H
www.thedishwisconsin.com
|
Instagram: @thedishwisconsin
Facebook: The Dish Wisconsin
|
Twitter: @thedishwi
ICONIC MADISON | 34
WELCOME HOME. GRAB A SEAT. LET’S EAT. With over 30+ restaurants, markets and cafes across campus, we have something to suit every taste any time of day.
Chicken Artichoke Pizza from Strada Italian, Memorial Union.
Now offering mobile ordering for pick-up or delivery through Tapingo. Order online. Save time. GETITON
GooglePlay
For hours and menus information visit union.wisc.edu/dine