A Seat at the Table

THE DISH

A S E AT AT T H E TA B L E

A S E AT AT T H E TA B L E

contents heart meets food 04 come along to hong kong 06 unrestricted 08 prep the rainbow 10 social justice specials 12 all’s fair 14 farm-to-tasty 16 feeding turtle island 20 beyond beer and cheese 22 no place like home 24 cantonese? yes please! 28 a seat at the table photo spread 29 authentic madison 32 break the chain 34 italian flavors season the dairy state 36 ethnic emporiums/ 进口超市 38 last course: breakfast for dinner 40

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Community Editor Matthew Shelver Features Editors Gretchen Posten Julia Ellis Online Editor Karim Nassef Art Director Zoey Rugel Media & Marketing Director Lauren Lamothe Photography Director Xinyi Li Writers Abby Meyer Ally Krieger Andrew Madison Emma McClure Genevieve Vahl Gretchen Poston Jordan Owen Julia Ellis Karim Nassef Kyi Phyu Khaing Lauren Anders Lauren Lamothe Mallory Stock Max Vichr Maya Fidziukiewicz Roan Haines Cover Photo Xinyi Li

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contributors

Editor in Chief Grace Miller

Photographers Abby Meyer Carli Gordon Gabrielle Bruns Janvi Shah KY Chan Lauren Lamothe Rixi Lu Xiaoyue Pu Xinyi Li Illustrators Julia Wen Sophia Silva Layout Genevieve Vahl Zoey Rugel Publications Committee Director Fernanda Martinez Creative Associate Director Sadeq Hashemi Publications Committee Advisor Jen Farley Wisconsin Union President Mills Botham Publications Committee Mission Statement “Through the publishing of our seven student-run journals and magazines, the Publications Committee of the Wisconsin Union Directorate provides a creative outlet for UW-Madison students interested in creating poetry and prose, reporting on music and fashion, or delving into research in science and public policy. We celebrate creativity on campus by providing hands-on experience in publishing, editing, writing, and artmaking.�

letter from the editor

The connection between food and culture is pervasive, so it may not be the most novel theme for a magazine, nor the first time many readers have pondered this idea.

This is not entirely surprising: we sit down to eat a meal roughly three times per day, every day, for our entire lives. Food is an integral part of ourselves, and it is often the background for more apparent culture creation: dinners around the family table, making cookies with Grandma, grabbing a warm breakfast with your best friends on a blustery, autumn morning.

Grace Miller Editor-in-Chief

Individually, we grow up eating the food of our cultures. It becomes intertwined with our personal experience on an almost molecular level, perhaps most visible when we crave “comfort food” or reach for mom’s go-to soup when we’re sick. On a global level, these individual experiences expand, morph, and emerge as specific cultural norms, and they are also subjected to globalization and the age of information.

We know more about ethnic ingredients, recipes, and dishes than ever before, but we rarely think about them within their complete cultural framework.

There may never be enough room to muse on the importance of cultural cognizance, the necessity of recognizing socioeconomic privilege, and the celebration of authenticity, but we want to open our conversation to include those who can speak specifically and individually about their cultures, how food shaped them, and why food matters.

Most importantly, I want to extend our platform to those sometimes excluded from the “foodie” narrative, whether that be because of dietary restrictions, niche dishes, or historical apathy. The table is restrictive, and it’s time to ditch our selective reservation list and open the doors to all: in this case, the more cooks in the kitchen, the better.

In this issue, Jordan Owen reports on the Native Food Network’s fiscal and educational importance to Native American reservations in Wisconsin, and Emma McClure delves deep into the history of Wisconsin food.

Andrew Madison and Ally Krieger demonstrate the importance of buying local, explore how that decision can make for a better experience as a consumer, and emphasize how gratifying it is to support local business owners.

Gretchen Poston uncovers the inherent entanglement of food and politics, and Karim Nassef and Lauren Anders highlight some staple Madison restaurants that stay true to their authentic roots.

Despite our best efforts, we can never hope to fully cover humanity’s innumerable cultural experiences in just one publication. With that in mind, I hope you enjoy reading our selections.

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H HEART MEETS FOOD

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As a student, walking down Library Mall through the array of food carts becomes a part of the quintessential Wisconsin experience: the scents that fill the air, the friendly voices, the people sharing meals with one another.

And when looking out across the various options, from paninis to spring rolls, Cafe Costa Rica stands out as a Latin-Soul Food Cart overflowing with love and passion.

Chef Thony Clarke, a Costa Rica native with deep Latin American roots, has been cooking from a young age. His mom ran his household like an army, and it was vital that each child in their large family learn very quickly how to cook. The Latin-Soul food

produced in Thony’s household never truly left him as he moved to the U.S., and after two years in Madison, Thony opened his own food cart.

The food cart business entails a whole laundry list of responsibilities, requiring 15 to 18 hours a day to do the job right. Mornings are spent chopping and cooking fresh ingredients and the days are filled with experimentation with spices, flavors, and new customer requests.

Part of this experimentation includes a focus on Thony’s character and culture. In order to build the brand-identity of his food, he decided to reach deeper into every

aspect: the flavors, the spices, the quality, and the service. To Thony, this dedication is a daily gift from him to his customers.

“People deserve the goodness of food that tastes good and gives something from yourself to other people,” Thony said.

Thony combines his own special sauces with a blend of unique spices to create gourmet food.

He inspires himself to keep his dishes new, fresh, and different by living through the idea that “a plate should be a memory for a story”--that each plate he serves, in other words, creates a connection between Thony, his culture, the flavors, and the customer.

Every unique story that Thony’s food creates moves customers. In fact, as he told me himself, his motivation revolves around putting a smile on someone’s face for at least thirty seconds. His aim is to make the customer do what he calls “the happy food dance.”

do; it’s your energy, your happiness, and something that you take from yourself and give to other people.

“The one that makes you want to scream about how good the food makes you feel,” Thony said in clarification.

Written and photographed by Lauren Lamothe.

“Goodness of the heart is the special spice,” Thony mused. “If you don’t mean it, don’t do it.”

This motivation can be attributed to his Latin-Soul foundations.

Thony defined Latin Soul Food to The Dish as food that “embodies the truth of your hard work and soul.” This truth translates into everything you think and

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COME ALONG

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Tong But Lut (Rice Balls with Peanuts and Sesame Seeds) Recipe Ingredients: 1 1/3 cups glutinous rice flour 1/3 cup rice flour ¾ cup water ¼ cup brown sugar 3 ginger slices 1/3 cup ground peanuts 1 ½ teaspoon black and white sesame seeds 2 ½ teaspoons white sugar

Directions: Mix the glutinous rice flour with the rice flour, adding ½ cup of water to make a smooth dough, and set aside the remaining ¼ cup of water. Roll dough into 1-tablespoon size balls. Next, place the balls into a pot of water, and cook them until they float to the top. Using another pot, warm up the remaining ¼ cup of water, mixing in the brown sugar until it dissolves. Stir in the ginger slices, and remove once desired flavor is reached.

In a separate bowl, combine the ground peanuts, white sugar, and sesame seeds evenly.

Place the balls into the pot with the sugar-ginger mixture, and cook at a low heat until syrup coats the balls.

Turn off the heat when syrup gets to a thick consistency. Remove the finished balls from the syrup, sprinkle peanut mix on them and serve warm.

Meet our Cook!

KY is a passionate advocate for Cantonese cuisine here at the University of Wisconsin.

He grew up in Hong Kong watching his father cook authentic dishes throughout his childhood, and when he came to study in Wisconsin, he found himself yearning for a taste of home. The American culture was a bit overwhelming; “…I missed my home food, and I realized [that]I didn’t really know how to cook as well as my dad,” KY

said. KY was inspired to travel home and learn from his father the ways of Cantonese cooking, which he now practices in his every day routine.

Cantonese Cuisine is one that “emphasizes freshness and the natural flavors of the ingredients.” Here are a few recipes to give you a “taste” of Hong Kong – enjoy!

Written by Maya Fidziukiewicz.Photographed by Xiaoyue Pu.

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“I could never follow that. What can you even eat?”

If you’re vegan or gluten free, this should definitely ring some bells. The biggest misconception of restrictive diets is that there are no options and everything you can eat is bland. However, this diet label is far from the truth. In Madison, there are many great restaurants that offer delectable options for us gluten free and vegan Badgers to enjoy.

One of these hidden gems is The Green Owl Cafe.

Everything there is either vegan, vegetarian, gluten free, or some combination. A favorite delicious delight is their mac and cheese- but don’t let the word ‘cheese’ scare you- it’s entirely vegan! There are countless other great comfort foods like this modified to meet your dietary restrictions. Just wander on in and peruse their menu: it’s sure not to disappoint!

Another go-to restaurant is Bassett Street Brunch Club, as its menu includes explicit labels for gluten sensitive and vegan dishes. My favorite is the farmer’s hash, which has sweet potatoes, eggs, and other yummy vegetables- just one of their amazing meals to kickstart your day. Not only is Bassett a breakfast-lover’s heaven, but it’s also a dietary restricted paradise.

The last-but-certainly-not-least (as it has dessertsyum!) is Bloom. Bloom offers a wide array of desserts that are specifically made to be gluten free or vegan. Their abundant platters of cupcakes and cinnamon rolls galore get everyone’s taste buds tingling. Along with their scrumptious desserts, Bloom also has a full menu for people to enjoy. But let’s be honest- the dessert is always the best part!

So next time anyone says, “I feel bad for you. You can’t eat anything!” just smile, knowing that you have these secret treasures in your back pocket. So go out and enjoy: happy dietary-restricted munching!

Written by Mallory Stock.

Photographed by Gabrielle Bruns.

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U N R E

S T R I C T E D

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Prep The Rainbow

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Ingredients 1 red bell pepper 1 bunch of asparagus 2 sweet potatoes ½ lemon 2 cups of wild rice 2 cups of lentils 1 head of red cabbage Olive oil Salt Pepper Dried rosemary leaves Bottled Sauces: Teriyaki sauce Balsamic vinaigrette

Directions: Roasting the Veggies 1. Cut the sweet potatoes and

cab bage into equal sizes.

2.

Chop off the thicker stems of the asparagus.

3.

Set the sweet potatoes and asparagus in one tray and the cabbage in another.

4.

Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the sweet potatoes and asparagus and 1 tablespoon over the purple cabbage.

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Add in a pinch of salt and pepper to both trays, making sure to coat evenly.

6.

Place the trays in a 425 degree oven for 20-30 minutes or until cooked and crispy.

Making the Base 1. P our 2 cups of lentils into a pot along with 6-8 cups of water.

2.

Let it simmer on medium heat with a tilted lid on.

3.

Check for tenderness (15-20 minutes).

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In another pot, pour in 2 cups of wild rice along with 4 cups of water.

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Bring to a boil and set the lid on.

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Reduce the heat, letting it simmer for 45 minutes.

Building the Bowl 1. C ut the red pepper into thin strips.

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In one bowl, add the rice and lentils.

3.

Top it off with some roasted sweet potatoes, asparagus, cabbage, and raw red peppers.

4.

Add your finishing touches: 3 Variations for 5 days 1. F resh & Simple: Eat it as it is, and let the natural flavors come through.

Maybe even squeeze in some lemon for some extra freshness!

2. T eriyaki Sauce: If you’re leaning towards a salty-sweet combo, drizzle in 2 teaspoons of teriyaki sauce for some sweetness and tanginess.

3. B alsamic Vinaigrette: For a slightly more complex flavor profile, splash in 1 teaspoon of balsamic vinaigrette along with a sprinkle of dried rosemary leaves.

Recipe curated by Kyi Phyu Khaing.

Photographed by KY Chan.

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an open seat for everyone

Social Justice Specials

Along with the usual helpings of beer, brats, and cheese curds, Madison’s restaurants are serving up piping hot plates of politics. As a city coined a “Liberal Haven,” it comes as no surprise that even the food industry in Madison, along with other vocal establishments and “sanctuary restaurants” across the country, are willing to take a stand. But the question now is: should they?

This past summer, it became starkly obvious that politics could not be separated from the food industry. White House Press Secretary Sarah Huckabee Sanders was denied from a restaurant that didn’t agree with her politics, Wando’s, a local Madison bar, banned rap music to keep “certain types of people” away, and although officially made illegal in the 60s, African Americans still experience prejudice in restaurants because of the color of their skin. until the 1950’s and beyond African Americans were denied seating and service at restaurants because of the color of their skin.

Restaurants, though seemingly separate from “The Swamp” that is Washington D.C., are just as connected to it as all of us. Not only can the food itself be political by being decidedly locally supplied, all organic, or free-range, but the people involved that run, work, and dine at the restaurants are as well. Politics, love ‘em or hate ‘em, go beyond stubborn partisanships, social taboos, and MSNBC and Fox News they are about people, about values, and about what

is right and wrong. The water in your shower was regulated, cleaned, and delivered to you by the government. The air you breathed when you walked to your car smells funny today because the powerplant a mile away is now allowed to pollute without regulation. Your favorite waiter at your favorite restaurant hasn’t been in the last few weeks because he was deported for running a stop sign after missing an immigration hearing. Whether you are involved and informed or not, politics matter because because they affect real people with real lives.

Short Stack Eatery, the most iconic breakfast spot in Madison, is gaining fame for its political flare in addition to its delicious all breakfast, no problem menu. I sat down and asked co-owner Alex Lindenmeyer what inspired Short Stack’s political voice, she said, “We’re invested in the city, we want to be here for a long time. Why wouldn’t we try to figure out what the city needs and try to support the city that supports us?” Located right on the corner of State and West Johnson, Short Stack uses the power of visibility and popularity to give voice to the invisible and the marginalized.

“I think we need to really remind ourselves that being able to just go get some breakfast is not a thing for a huge community of marginalized people, so we decided we want to be the place that doesn’t care if you’re queer, if you’re black, if you’re Syrian,--we just want this to be a place where everyone feels safe.”

During Madison’s annual Pride Parade, Alex remembers queer people of color feeling nervous and unsafe with police presence. In response, “we invited Madison police officers here and people at Outreach Magazine and we made it clear that we need to sit and have conversations about this or things will never change.”

She proudly recounts that “we really do want everyone invited to our table at Short Stack.”

Although perhaps deemed bad for business, restaurant owners and employees, just like any other person, group, or politician are entitled to their opinions and deserve to express and support them if they choose. However, in a polarizing political climate, wearing your politics on your sleeve is met with both jubilant support and eruptions of dissent no matter the stance.

In Madison liberal political stances are probably a safer risk than conservative ones, but travel beyond the city to more conservative places and hanging a pride flag or a black lives matter sign could be detrimental to business.

This risk goes both ways. But Alex reminds us, “Our goal here is to create a space where everyone is educated so they can make informed decisions about their community and that always has a negative connotation and I don’t think it should. Of course I think everyone should be political, hell yeah I do.”

Written by Gretchen Poston.

Photographed by Gabrielle Bruns.

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ALL’S FAIR I walked in to speak with Casey Thompson, one of the co-owners of Fair Trade Coffee House, on a brisk afternoon. The baristas welcomed me warmly well before they knew what I was there for, and I ordered a bubbling cup of in-house nitro brew. Looking around, I saw Casey washing dishes behind the bar. This sparked some appreciation in me, as many owners disconnect from their shops and avoid working behind the bar. Most other days, Thomas, Casey’s husband and co-owner, is behind the counter as well making coffees and taking orders.

“Every Saturday, they’re here together,” Shana Drengenberg, one of the baristas, told me. “They’re not just behind the scenes like many owners are.”

I smiled and got Casey’s attention, and after a short delay he wiped his hands off and came to sit with me.

As we settled in I asked him about what he believes sets their shop apart. We discussed many aspects of the shop–the art, atmosphere, and the products–but ultimately he said, “I think people are looking for a different experience.”

In striving to create that different experience, Casey and Thomas have focused not only on the shop itself, but also on the origins of its products. Casey went on to tell me how the coffee house gets all of its coffee and tea from fair trade organic sources.

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Fair Trade gets all their coffee from Equal Exchange, an organization that trades the goods of small farmers across the globe while also ensuring the rights and wages of those farmers are supported. The shop also gets all its tea from Teema Teas, an organization of tea farmers owned and managed by women in Thailand.

The inclusivity does not end with coffee. According to Shana, customers with dietary restrictions such as gluten allergies and vegan lifestyles often come in and are delighted to find items on Fair Trade’s menu that cater to those exact restrictions, as well as a few more.

“When I tell them that, their faces will just light up, because it’s so rare that a place has this many options,” Shana said.

Fair Trade Coffee House is worth the visit. Their inclusive philosophy extends from their fair trade farming partners to their in-house baked goods, and is wrapped up in a warm and comfortable atmosphere with amazing coffee. Come in, speak to the baristas and owners, and enjoy a cup of craft coffee.

Written by Andrew Madison.

Photographed by Xiaoyue Pu.

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F

m

a r

T

y

to a s t The farm to table lifestyle promotes serving local food to consumers, preferably through direct purchase from the grower.

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The phrase “farm-to-table” is one that has quickly made its way into mainstream conversation in the past couple of years. You may have seen it on a menu or heard of the concept from your foodie friends, but I always wondered: what does farm-to-table really mean?

A “farm-to-table” meal entails a few important elements, but the one leading factor includes knowing the farm or ranch where your produce originated from. It is essentially a social movement which focuses on food safety, food freshness, food seasonality, and small

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farm economics. The farm-totable lifestyle promotes serving local food to consumers, preferably through direct purchase from a grower who raised their crops and livestock without HGMO’s or the involvement of commercial suppliers.

Even though this trend seems like it may be up-and-coming, this healthy way of living isn’t a new obsession in Wisconsin. Living in the state of all things dairy and fresh, we are fortunate to have many different places that provide clean and delicious food, all falling under the category of farm-to-table—particularly

in Madison. Whether you’re at the Dane County Farmers’ Market on the hunt for fresh ingredients for your kitchen, or you’re simply just walking around the Capitol looking for a restaurant that satisfies your farm-to-table needs, there are so many options.

There are quintessential farmto-table options around the Capitol Square, like L’Etoile, Graze, Field To Table, and Harvest, to name a few. Fun fact: Graze is named after the grass-fed animals and rotational items items that appear on the menu. In any case, Graze and Harvest have to be

among my favorites, for both their green and naturesque elements.

Graze’s menu has a few notable plates, but my favorite is the humongous Carne Asada Burrito, even though I usually get it without carne (meat).

The burrito is so large, so delicious, so colorful, it could be on display in a museum.

The menu overall includes so many vibrant and fresh items, it’s no wonder there’s always a line out the door with hungry customers. Harvest, on the other hand, may have a different ambiance, but their main course menu including several

different meats, fish, and vegetarian options is highly impressive. There is something for everyone on the Harvest menu, and that is not something that you can say about every farm-to-table restaurant.

From the beef tartare to the house made pasta, I am salivating just thinking about it.

Needless to say, any of these great restaurants is worth a visit, especially considering the sheer amount of extra work farm-to-table chefs must put into their businesses. Behind the menu, let’s not forget, is the painstaking chef dedicated to providing their customers

with food that is simultaneously local, delicious, and in season down to the very day.

So what does “farm-to-table” really mean? It means appreciating a locally-grown meal, with the help of passionate and diligent chefs who always provide for their customers.

Written by Julia Ellis.

Photographed by Xinyi Li.

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Feeding Turtle Island: The Native Food Network’s mission to connect indigenous farmers, chefs and communities

ILLUSTRATED BY JULIA WEN

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I caught Dan Cornelius as he was driving home from Menominee, where Native farmers harvested several thousand pounds of pumpkins the day before. In his pickup truck he was carrying lumber to set up shelves of Native-grown food in Minnesotan stores. Cornelius works for the Intertribal Agriculture Council, and founded the Native Food Network, a regional organization that emerged out of the need to build support for distribution, transportation, and marketing for Native farmers. The mission of the NFN is to create infrastructure that allows supply to meet demand by linking growers, processors, chefs, and communities.

Tribe members cultivate 57 million acres of land across the country, with 72,000 farmers and ranchers producing $3.24 billion in annual sales, according to the USDA Agricultural Census. Nevertheless, Native farmers face a disadvantage against other ethnicities who farm in the United States: they do not tend to sell final products, but rather raw ingredients.

By comparison, “Asian American farmers and ranchers only have one-third the number of producers on one-thirtieth the amount of land,” explained Cornelius. “Yet they’re doing double the annual sales—they’re doing $6 billion in annual sales.”

Selling finished foods is therefore an opportunity for not only increased income for Native communities, but also for fostering a greater ability to feed these communities. Enter the Native Food Network.

In order to begin rebuilding trade routes for intertribal food exchanges that promise economic and social returns, Cornelius and others took a roadtrip with the Mobile Farmers Market in 2014. The small white van emblazoned with the Intertribal Agriculture Council logo is one piece of the NFN’s physical capital. In its inaugural year, 2013, it hosted farmers markets in dozens of Native communities across the Great Lakes region. The next year it embarked on the Trade Routes Road Trip in which it brought wild rice, maple syrup, and other Great Lakes foods to tribes across the country, meeting the people behind the food. The expansion of the network is fundamentally social—it requires human connections, from farmers to chefs to eaters.

Throughout our conversation Cornelius established the importance of food to communities, both as an expression of culture and as a livelihood. He went on to observe that while UW students from many nations can find restaurants in the city that serve their home cuisine, Native students do not have the same luxury.

“Why do we have a residence hall called Dejope on campus if they don’t even serve indigenous foods there?” Cornelius asked. “Why is there a restaurant called 1849 when they’ve had food going way farther back than that?”

As for the aforementioned thousands of pounds of pumpkins, they are headed for Menominee’s schools. The NFN values youth involvement, centering them in the effort to rebuild food systems. Revitalizing healthy indigenous food requires a younger generation excited about cooking and prepared to learn from elders who have a tremendous amount of knowledge that will soon be lost.

The NFN is facilitating the intergenerational, transnational transfer of cuisine in a new and delicious way in communities hungry for better food systems. Keep an eye out for that white van with the dreamcatcher—it carries hope alongside the wild rice.

Written by Jordan Buchanan Owen. Illustrated by Julia Wen. A S E AT AT T H E TA B L E

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Beyond Beer & Cheese

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Wisconsin may be known for its beer and cheese, but there is far more to our culinary heritage than cows and curds. Our food traces through a rich history, beginning with the Native American tribes and further shaped by European immigrants in the twentieth century. The culinary influences of both groups have evolved and spread to become the Wisconsin food we know and love today.

The foundation for Wisconsin food originates with Native American tribes, specifically the Menomonee, Ho-Chunk and Ojibwe. Their diets varied on season and location, hinging on the growing season in late spring when they planted corn, squash, and beans and gathered various wild potatoes and berries. Harvests were eaten immediately or preserved for later in the year. Wild rice was a staple of Native American diets and a significant part of their cultures. The Menominees were named for the Indian word of wild rice - manomin. A popular dish was made from parched corn, pounded into a meal, and then mixed with dried venison, maple sugar, and wild rice.

Native Americans had no salt, making maple sugar a commonly used seasoning. They relied most heavily on corn, preparing it in many different ways, including hulled, baked into cornbread, or ground into porridge. The foods enjoyed by Wisconsin tribes are still eaten today by people whether or not they are connected to Native American culture, and created a base for Wisconsin cuisine to grow from.

“So much of what we see today as part of Wisconsin’s heritage is a product of immigrants that brought relics of their home countries with them to Wisconsin”

Two years after attaining statehood, Wisconsin’s population grew to 305,390, and more than a third of these new Wisconsinites were immigrants from European countries. The first immigrants to arrive were Cornish, followed by a myriad of different nationalities, including German, Irish, English, Swiss, and a host of others. Most arrived from the ports in Milwaukee and settled in neighborhoods with people of their nationality. After a couple years of adjustment, immigrants began to modify the traditional dishes from their home countries.

They brought with them all sorts of vegetables and spices not indigenous to the area. Chives, poppies, bay leaves, sage, saffron, horseradish and more can trace their roots in the United States back to various immigrant groups. The European immigrants transformed local foods to fit their needs and are responsible for creating some of the most recognizable Wisconsin dishes. If not for German immigrants, we would not have summer sausage, bratwurst, or rye bread. Without the Cornish we would not have pasties, and without Polish immigrants we would not have pierogies. So much of what we see today as part of Wisconsin’s heritage is a product of immigrants that brought relics of their home countries here with them.

We would be remiss to underestimate the importance of the dairy industry in the framing of Wisconsin food, but it does not define us. Wisconsin food is dynamic, it has evolved, and it continues to change. Years from now, Wisconsin food may be completely different, but what will remain the same is the deeply personal nature of Wisconsin food and how it tells the story not only of who we are now, but also where we come from.

Written by Emma McClure.

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no place like home America: melting pot, chopped salad, or—picture collage?

For many of us students at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, dorm room aesthetic is crucial. We started picking out pictures for that carefully-crafted collage as soon as we accepted admission. These pictures serve as nostalgic reminders of home, of our friends, of our family, but sometimes they don’t capture the whole essence of our memories.

That is where food comes in to fill the gap: nothing takes us back quite like the smells and tastes of a home cooked meal.

Americanized food captures many of the subcultures that make up the United States. Connections to heritage within cuisine celebrates the myriad of cultures that make up this nation but

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can be lost in the Americanized, chain, fast food style so present in American culture. That’s not to say cheese curds on the terrace and the omelet bar at Gordon’s aren’t tasty, but if we limit ourselves to these Wisconsin staples we miss out on authentic, vibrant food from around the world.

The team at The Dish hit the streets of UW and asked students to connect us with their heritage and give us the scoop on their favorite local authentic restaurants. With their help, we uncovered some of the stories behind America’s heritage, and, consequently, the stories behind Americanized food.

We asked students to tell us as much as they could about their cultural food and remind us that there really is no place like home.

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1

We’ll start with Christeena Jojo, a freshman from Chicago new to both the campus and the food scene of UW-Madison. Her family is from Kaduruthy, Kerala, and vibrant South Indian cuisine filled her childhood home for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Nostalgically, Jojo lamented, “Coming to Wisconsin and not having that food every day makes me realize wow, that was a part of me.”

She has found a newfound appreciation for food connecting her to her roots in Kerala, especially being born and raised in the US and disconnected from her family’s homeland. She misses her guilty pleasure food poori, unleavened deep-fried bread, which her grandmother taught her to make at age ten. Jojo has not yet checked out authentic Indian food, but she heard word on the street that Himal Chuli is serving up satisfying Nepalese cuisine.

Although different from Indian cuisine, Nepalese food combines origins of Indian, Tibetan, and Thai food, so there are many overlapping flavors. ­

himal chuli

318 state street

madistan

317 north bassett street Traveling not too far on the globe from India and Nepal, we talked to Arsalan Ahmed and Saad Dagra, a dynamic duo traveling all the way from Pakistan’s capital, Karachi to UW for their undergraduate adventure. Both agreed that food is a significant part of their culture, especially when it comes to bonding with family. The two were thrilled to find Madistan when they came to campus, which serves authentic chicken biryani like their favorite from home. Dagra and Ahmed agreed, however, that “it’s not just the food that makes you feel at home, it’s the guy who makes it.”

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Last but certainly not least, we talked to Fatou Kolley. She is originally from Gambia and moved to Sun Prairie at a young age. Kolley’s favorite dish, if she had to choose, would be benachin (also known as jollof) rice, but she has a hard time finding it in any authentic Gambian restaurants in Madison. Surprisingly, considering the established African presence in Madison, she notices a lack of African food in general. She loves how food brings her family together and would love to see more African food introduced to Madison’s food scene. Although she has not yet dined there, she mentioned Kingdom Restaurant as a place to find a few popular dishes, including yassa, domada, and palasas, and they do have a menu portion titled, “A Taste of Africa,” in the midst of their American burger, chicken, and fish combinations.

kingdom restaurant

2702 east washington avenue

orient house chinese restaurant 626 south park street

We also talked to our very own from The Dish, Cleo Li! We are so excited to have Li on our team, bringing her talent in photography and unique perspective as an exchange student from Ningbo, Zhejiang in China. Although she is here for a brief two months, she has already scoped out authentic Chinese food. Li mentions Orient House Chinese Restaurant as one of her favorites, with both a menu in Chinese and English to cater to all their customers.

Even though they have delicious dumplings, Li says they are different than when close friends and family cook for her: “When I eat some meals, I will say ‘oh it’s my mom’s’”, immediately connecting with the familiar flavors.

All of the UW students we talked to would agree: authentic food connects each of them to their roots, and they invite people outside of their ethnicities to try delicious dishes and understand their dynamic cultures just a little bit more. We feel so grateful to have the opportunity to highlight and learn about the cultures of just a few of our fellow students. By paying homage to its origins, Americanizing food has the potential to be a valuable acknowledgment and celebration of the ethnicities in this country. So, go out; support local, authentic spots; and embrace the diversity Madison has to offer. Maybe you’ll even learn more about the origins of your favorite foods along the way! *In no way does this article come close to representing all of the cultures in Madison or fully represent the cultures we touched on.

Written by Roan Haines. Illustrated by Grace Miller. Photographed by Rixi Lu. A S E AT AT T H E TA B L E

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CANTONESE? YES, PLEASE!

DIRECTIONS:

CANTONESE-STYLE SWEET POTATO SOUP

INGREDIENTS:

4 cups of water 1 sweet potato 1/4 cup ginger slices 6 teaspoons brown sugar Dates for garnish

Pour water into a skillet and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, peel your sweet potato and cut it into medium-sized rods. Next, oblique cut the potato rods. Once the water is boiled, add the cut sweet potato and ginger slices to skillet. Cover the skillet and let simmer for 20 minutes. Next, add brown sugar and stir until it is completely dissolved. Finally, take the skillet off of the heat and enjoy warm soup in a bowl.

Recipe curated by Maya Fidziukiewicz.

Photographed by Xiaoyue Pu.

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Authentic Madison 32

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“I want people to pay for a fancy meal with little money.”

Authenticity means different things to different people. As “ethnic” food trends have evolved, so has the appreciation for these foods and the stories behind them. In his book The Ethnic Restauranteur, Krishnendu Ray argues that when we demand authenticity from our “ethnic” food, we are really looking for a replica, a “true copy of our expectations.” In a global society that transcends borders, it is impossible to detach foods and recipes from the stories that led to their inception. This is demonstrated by Mediterranean Cafe, a lunch spot on the 600 block of State Street that serves up a mix of crowd-pleasing shawarma and hummus dishes, as well as a creative variety of rotating daily specials. The dishes are rooted in North-African and Middle-Eastern cuisine, and are also influenced by chef and owner Faycal Belakhdar’s experiences and training in Mediterranean cuisines. Mediterranean Cafe has been around since 1996, and since then, it’s become a staple of the Madison community, drawing in locals to its cozy seating area.

One of Mediterranean Cafe’s most distinct characteristics is the large and diverse crowds it attracts every day at around lunchtime. Faycal takes great pride in this. I caught up with him in a dimly lit booth over a steaming mug of mint/earl-grey tea.

“I’m very proud to say this is a home for all students from all kinds of different backgrounds and countries. Somehow, it makes them feel like home. Maybe the mint reminds them of their mother, the cinnamon reminds them of their grandfather or something... I know this food is bringing people together from different backgrounds. Sometimes you hear 10 languages being spoken here. It’s a good feeling. Once people come here, they are satisfied, and they always come back.”

Faycal’s story is a remarkable one.

After studying law in Algeria, he came to the United States 38 years ago to join his best friend and continue his law studies. After discovering that his visa restricted him from studying here, he started working as a dishwasher, climbed up the ladder and started learning how to create dishes and run a restaurant. In 1980, he moved to Amy’s Café, honed these skills, and then opened Mediterranean Cafe in 1996.

Mediterranean Cafe’s main menu offers pan-Middle-Eastern staples, like the shawarma platter, whereas the daily specials give Faycal the creative freedom to cook the dishes he’s inspired to make from his training in specific Mediterranean cuisines.

“When you have a restaurant, you cook what the people like. Where I’m from, we don’t have tabbouleh,

we don’t have shawarma, we don’t have falafel, so we had to adjust to it. So, our main menu is more Middle-Eastern. Like the falafel, the shawarma, the hummus... And then every day, I use my background in Greek, North African, and Italian cuisine. If you eat my food elsewhere,, it will cost you double. I make the fancy food blue-collar, because I believe in blue-collar. That’s how I feel. I want people to pay for a fancy meal with little money.”

The story that perhaps best illustrates the way that cuisines across the Middle-East, North Africa, and Mediterranean cuisines have influenced Faycal’s cooking is the story of Akin’s Plate, Mediterranean Cafe’s best- selling dish. “In 2000, I used to have a lot of Turkish students. One of them was Akin, who was this Turkish guy, a very loud guy. He used to tell me “Faycal, can you make me a plate with rice, meat, cucumber salad, and yoghurt sauce?” (a combination found in the Turkish dish Döner), and I’d tell him that we have a menu and that we’re going to stick with it.

“He’d tell me “Come on, Faycal!” I’d tell him “No!” Then I started to give up, you know? He’d say “Faycal, can you–“ so I’d start to make it. Then, people started to come to us and say “Hey, our Turkish friend, he comes here and he gets this plate that he really loves. What is that? Can we have that?” and suddenly we were making like 20-30 plates a day.”

Akin’s plate has since evolved to include a raisin/cranberry tabbouleh salad.

Written by Karim Nassef.

Photographed by Xinyi Li.

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BREAK THE CHAIN 34

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We badgers are lucky to have a plethora of restaurants in Madison. However, sometimes more is not better. Do you ever find yourself debating where to go for the best sandwich or the most delicious burger? Me too.

You may want to take the easy way out by choosing somewhere convenient like Potbelly. However, Madison has local alternatives for the discerning foodie, and one often finds these spots to be of higher quality than their competitors.

As you walk down State Street with an insatiable craving for falafel, you must hit Mediterranean Café, also known as Med Caf, over Naf Naf or any other competitors. There’s no doubt you get your bang for your buck with the generous spread provided.

When you are craving raw fish, you will not be let down by making Freshfin your new go-to spot, over Miko Poke or Sushi Express. You can’t go wrong choosing a signature bowl or getting creative and “making your own,” which gives you the liberty to add any ingredient you desire.

This is also why we love Casetta’s. Casetta’s, found on W Washington Ave next to Red, hits the spot with your choice of the following: chicken cutlet, turkey, eggplant, prosciutto, salami, roast beef and more. This sandwich spot is my go-to over Potbelly or Wichwhich because of the sheer uniqueness of the options you can mix and match.

If you are ever craving chips and guacamole, Canteen is the new place to be, over Chipotle or Qdoba. Its upbeat ambiance during brunch and happy hour makes it unique, as well as its variety of delicious options.

There are so many possibilities all around us, so when you find yourself pondering, look around and consider your local options.

Written by Alexandra Krieger.

Photographed by Carli Gordon.

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Flourishing off its original roots and great olive oil, old school Italian will never go out of style

ITALIAN FLAVORS SEASON THE DAIRY STATE

Serving classic Italian cuisine in the heart of Madison’s old Greenbush neighborhood, Greenbush Bar has been a staple of Madison’s food scene since 1993.

Originally named the “Bush,” Greenbush neighborhood was home to many Italians, as well as other minority groups and was considered the most diverse neighborhood in the Madison area in the early 1900s. Eventually the Bush was Madison’s “Little Italy” filled with butcher shops, Italian grocery stores, and a close knit community. But by the 60s, urban renewal began to occur, tearing apart the diversity, the culture, and the Italian flavors craved by many.

However, tradition is alive and well at Greenbush Bar, never forgetting that quintessential Italian ingredients must be used in two ways: properly and often. The restaurant strives to use only local and the freshest ingredients, whether they’re procured from local farms in Wisconsin or imported from the homeland, Italy. From the olive oil, vegetables and herbs, or the meats, Greenbush strives to make every ingredient special to bring out flavors in each dish.

In no Greenbush dish is the quality of these fresh ingredients more apparent than in their pizza. One would think that building their own pizza should be easy; however, flavors have to blend seamlessly - too many toppings can cancel out flavors. Starting off with thin crust, I substituted olive oil for their classic sauce; and for toppings, pepperoni, prosciutto, arugula, and fresh garlic were my choosings. My favorite thing about this pie was the blistered crust from their 600 degree brick oven, which gave a nice char but still offered a dense bite.

In general, the the two words that would define Greenbush’s legacy would be: old-school. Whether it be the multicolor Christmas lights hung around the ceiling, the red leather bar stools, or their “old school Italian salad” featured on their menu, this establishment is proud of their roots.

“I’ve been working here for four years now, and whether it be my coworkers or the locals that come in, this place feels like a home where tradition is really emphasized” said Ryan, Greenbush’s head bartender.

In its entirety, this is your classic Italian restaurant.

Greenbush Bar is a food monument in Madison and will continue to please the palettes of those who appreciate a traditional atmosphere and classic Italian flavors.

Located at 914 Regent Street, The Greenbush Bar is located in the basement of the historic Italian Workman’s Club building.

Written by Lauren Anders.

Photographed by Janvi Shah.

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Tamales from Mexico. Sushi from Japan.

Pierogies from Poland. Food is huge part of any culture: it is a significant characteristic of what makes a culture unique to its people and region. Food brings people together, manifesting the culture and tradition of peoples. Recipes are passed down from generation to generation, upholding authentic family traditions.

Ethnic grocery stores sustain specific culinary traditions, allowing them to thrive outside of country lines. Madison is home to many of these cultural hubs from countries around the world, and each one provides culturally specific ingredients. Specifically, Asian markets dominate Madison’s ethnic grocery store scene, each providing their own take on the necessities of Asian cuisine.

J&P Fresh Market, located across the street from Woodman’s grocery store in west Madison, has the best selection of frozen food, fresh seaweed, and snacks. Sharing kitchen space with the Chinese restaurant next door, the owners also offer freshly made savory Chinese steamed buns that we can’t resist.

The Asian Midway Foods located on South Park St. has a wider selection of cold drinks and produce. It is the closest option to campus, accessible by foot and bus. The self-serve display case offers a wide range of baked sweets from the local Asian Sweet Bakery nearby. Plus, their sesame balls and red bean cakes can quench any sweet tooth craving.

For a more Korean specific grocery store, Lee’s Oriental LLC on University Avenue, across the street from Whole Foods, is easily accessible by bus. This tiny establishment provides almost exclusively pre-packaged food. Lee’s provides the largest selection of packaged Korean ramen and Kimchi. The sweet woman working the shop can even give you some authentic advice for your Korean cooking!

Generic grocery stores simply can’t provide enough to serve each culture justly. Luckily, ethnic grocery stores are specific to their region and provide niche ingredients and experiences, heightening any culinary endeavor. They offer a more in-depth glance into other cultures, and a way we can experience diverse cultures within our own city.

Written by Genevieve Vahl in collaboration with Max Vichr. Photographed by Janvi Shah.

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进口超市

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LAST COURSE: BREAKFAST FOR DINNER The simplicity of a family dinner is a tradition every family should consider celebrating, yet in our fast-paced, modern world, it is sometimes hard to find the time to eat together. After returning home from a busy day, the dinner table acts as a gathering place to foster connections with your loved ones and create memories worth looking back on. A dinner table is a place where we forget about completing our to-do list and the long day we had at work, and instead set aside time to enjoy with friends and family.

Whether you are in college or away from home, it is important to find those people that support you like family. The ones that you know will be there for you, the friends that are so close they feel like relatives, and people that make you love life with all you have. Returning to the dinner table breaks the technological hold on communication and allows friends to gather together and share those special moments.

Oftentimes, it is not what is on the menu that makes family dinner special, but the time spent with your people. While we are all for the traditional turkey dinner and mashed potatoes, sometimes the comfort

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of home comes in the form of hot chocolate chip pancakes and scrambled eggs.

In the Meyer household, breakfast-for-dinner is a family favorite, and there is nothing better than a cozy breakfast to get you through the cold Wisconsin winters. In the spirit of family dinner night, I decided to share this little piece of home with some friends, both old and new.

A dysfunctional family, but a special one nonetheless, we got to work prepping for our breakfast-for-dinner extravaganza. Fresh fruit, bacon and eggs, a flavorful variety of jumbo muffins, and warm buttermilk pancakes drizzled in maple syrup - it was a mouthwatering breakfast spread enjoyed by all! Cooking next to my closest friend, I took a step back and admired the scene unfolding before me. Friends new and old were swapping stories, sharing laughs, and devouring the breakfast we had prepared. It was one of those moments where you were happy to be living in the now, not worried about the stack of homework waiting for you later on.

While family dinner night can take on different meanings for different individuals, a family dinner simply invites all to take a seat at the table to connect and reflect on the blessings in life with those who you treasure the most. I challenge you to make breakfast for dinner sometime, and watch as the longtime tradition of the family dinner comes to life within your own home. Who knows, maybe it will inspire more moments spent around the dinner table.

Written and photographed by Abby Meyer.

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